WINEMAG.COM | 1

2 CALIFORNIA

24 OREGON

31 CHILE

38 PORTUGAL

51 SPAIN

53 LOIRE

55 LANGUEDOC-ROUSSILLON

56 GERMANY

61 NORTHEAST ITALY

67 AUSTRIA

76 SPIRITS

78 BEERS

IN THIS MONTH’S GUIDE

FOR ADDITIONAL RATINGS AND REVIEWS, VISIT BUYINGGUIDE.WINEMAG.COM

BUYINGGUIDER

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2014AUGUST

Pinot Noir grapes ready for harvest in Anderson Valley, California.

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BUYINGGUIDE

2 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | AUGUST 2014

PINOT NOIR

94 Boekenoogen 2011 Estate Pinot Noir (Santa Lucia Highlands). For full review see page 3.

Editors’ Choice. abv: 14.4% Price: $55

94 St. Rose 2011 Nunes Vineyard 777 Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). Light in color,

this delicate wine is herbal and yet bright in Bing cherry, quite nuanced and slight at first, unveiling its concentration and complexity slowly and seduc-tively over time. Made by longtime grape growers, the acidity is lively and the weight slim, traces of restrained oak and garden herb dancing in the back-ground. Only 54 cases made. —V.B. abv: 13% Price: $44

93 Clos de la Tech 2009 Domaine du Docteur Rodgers Pinot Noir (San Francisco Bay). For

full review see page 4. Cellar Selection. abv: 14.1% Price: $102

93 Couloir 2012 Monument Tree Pinot Noir (An-derson Valley). Another lovely Monument

Tree Pinot from Couloir, this vintage is stemmy and earthy, yet soft, silky and voluptuous in all the right ways. It’s pleasantly refined and ethereal, with whispers of cherry and raspberry fruitiness along-side equal parts gravitas and substance. —V.B. abv: 14.2% Price: $46

93 La Rochelle 2010 Deer Meadows Vineyard Pi-not Noir (Anderson Valley). A high-elevation

vineyard (1,700-feet) above Boonville, Deer Mead-ows imparts a subtle floral violet quality to this wine, which is lovingly faint in color and silky tex-ture. Over time, the perfume builds into a singularly resolved mélange of dark blueberry and tart cherry,

the acidity perfectly able to hit the high notes. This wine should be enjoyable through 2021–2024 min-imum, making an incredible partner to mushroom risotto or spring lamb. —V.B. abv: 14.3% Price: $75

93 St. Rose 2011 Nunes Vineyard Ten Block Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). Light in color it’s

composed of violet and rose petal aromas, zippy in acidity, with layered dark cherry fruit and an earthy, herbal backbone. With texture on the palate, it has a buoyancy and electricity of minerality and finishes with the slightest suggestion of anise. Only 72 cases were made. —V.B. abv: 13.2% Price: $38

92 Bianchi 2011 Signature Selection Garey Vine-yard Pinot Noir (Santa Maria Valley). For full

review see page 4. Editors’ Choice. abv: 14.7% Price: $22

92 Joseph Jewell 2011 Appian Way Vineyards Pi-not Noir (Russian River Valley). This Pinot is

joyous in fresh berry fruit aromas and flavors, from wild strawberry to taut cherry, the fruit buoyed by lush, velvety tannins and generous acidity. Pretty on the nose and tongue, it discloses a trace of vanilla on the clean, distinct finish. —V.B. abv: 13.44% Price: $39

92 Joseph Jewell 2011 Floodgate Vineyard Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). This tight, clas-

sic Russian River Valley Pinot Noir needs coaxing to bring out the lovely, lilting aromatics, splendid in savory dark fruit, cinnamon and tobacco. Re-strained use of new oak brings a balance of richness and acidity, softened tannins and velvety texture that works in every way. —V.B. abv: 13.54% Price: $42

92 McIntyre Vineyards 2012 McIntyre and Es-colle Vineyards Pinot Noir (Santa Lucia High-

lands). At first smelling like a bowl of red punch, this bottling quickly slides into dark, savory herb-als, featuring a bit of five-spice blend that evolves as you sniff. On the palate, it’s smooth and soothing, with blueberry and other dark blue fruits as well as anise. There is noticeable tannic structure, so this will hold well for a few more years. —M.K. abv: 14.3% Price: $32

92 Roblar 2012 Gold Collection Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). Blistered tomato dominates the

aromatic profile on Roblar’s top-end Pinot Noir bot-tling. The flavors are also quite pleasing, with the savory umami of stewed tomatoes again leading the way, with some violet and other purple flowers sing-ing back-up. The palate is silky, the finish properly acidic, and the alcohol is nicely restrained. Serve with pasta alla puttanesca. —M.K. abv: 14.4% Price: $50

CALIFORNIAAbout those 2011s

The 2011 vintage was a tough one for win-eries in Northern California. It was unsea-sonably cold and wet at inopportune times in the vines’ growing cycle, leading to fears

about grapes not getting ripe enough or falling prey to rot.

Thankfully, declarations of inferior wines were premature, and now that a good number of wines has been released, I’ve been tasting great things from the 2011 vintage, es-pecially the Pinot Noirs.

Never has it seemed truer that knowing one’s site trumps all. The wines that have really stood out confirm this again and again, coming from producers who farm their own longstand-ing estates, or wineries that have long-term relationships with vineyard owners or manag-ers and will drop fruit when nec-essary.

There’s a vibrancy to the 2011 Pinots and a laser- like sharpness to their fruit, bright red cherry, sprinkled with complex layers of exotic

spice and herb. What I love most is the acidity and accompanying texture to these wines; they are incredibly alive and delicious to drink. That acidity is accompanied by slightly lower than average alcohol levels too, making them a plea-sure to enjoy either with or without food.

The vintage really contrasts with the 2012s I’ve tasted, which generally are riper, more robust and struc-tured wines. They largely still need time to integrate, while the 2011s, as a whole, are more readily accessible now.

Although California is the star of this issue’s Buy-ing Guide, we also take a look at the latest releases from Or-egon—another star region for Pinot Noir—as well as hun-dreds of selections from Chile, Portugal, Spain, France, Italy and Austria. And, as always, be

sure to check out our complete review database, with thousands more reviews, at buyingguide.winemag.com.

Cheers! —Virginie Boone

There’s a vibrancy to the 2011 Pinots

and a laser-like sharpness to the

fruit, bright red cherry, sprinkled

with complex layers of exotic spice and

herb.

WINEMAG.COM | 3

96 Ken Wright 2012 Freedom Hill Vineyard Pi-not Noir (Willamette Valley). The Freedom

Hill selection from Ken Wright has never been bet-ter than this exceptionally rich, dark and dense Pi-not Noir. Black cherry, smoke, earth and chocolate inter twine in a remarkably smooth, long, complex and extended finish. A sensational wine to enjoy right now. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 14% Price: $65

95 Donkey & Goat 2011 Perli Vineyards Syrah (Mendocino Ridge). This boasts a brilliant,

linear progression from pepper to lush cherry and berry fruit . It’s spicy and floral in nuanced, beau-tiful ways, with perfectly balanced acidity. Creamy and silky, this wine lingers, building complexity as it coats the palate. —V.B. abv: 13.5% Price: $40

94 Boekenoogen 2011 Estate Pinot Noir (Santa Lucia Highlands). Blending distinction with

sheer pleasure, the bouquet opens with scents of green, black, and Kalamata olives, sage, forest floor and slate. Those aromas translate remarkably to the palate, which is a potpourri of dried herbs and wet earth. There are barely any overt fruit characteris-tics, and the savory, sophisticated result is simply delicious. Editors’ Choice. —M.K. abv: 14.4% Price: $55

94 Owen Roe 2012 Merriman Vineyard Pinot Noir (Yamhill-Carlton District). This wine is

dark, deep and densely flavored with black cherry, cola and coffee. It tastes bigger than its moderate alcohol might suggest, and powers through to a long, lushly fruity finish. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 14.1% Price: $55

94 Seven Hills 2011 Seven Hills Vineyard Cab-ernet Sauvignon (Walla Walla Valley). This

vineyard designate, showcasing the oldest vines from the oldest vineyard in the Walla Walla Val-ley, piles on the details of earth, grape and barrel. There’s cassis, blackberry and fig in generously lay-ered profusion, along with substantial components of dried herbs, cedar and pipe tobacco. The excep-tional complexity, balance and length make this a sure-fire candidate for cellaring until 2024 or more. Cellar Selection. —P.G. abv: 13.7% Price: $45

93 Bischöfliche Weingüter Trier 2012 Scharz-hofberger Riesling Spätlese (Mosel). Exoti-

cally floral and spicy, this delivers an intoxicating blend of exuberance and elegance. While delicately framed, the palate is rich, ripe and juicy, with sweet yellow-cherry and apricot flavors, and a slick of wax and honey. It’s brisk and nervy, yet finishes re-markably long, with a swathe of green herbal tones. Schmitt-Söhne USA. —A.I. abv: 8.5% Price: $30

The Wine Enthusiast Buying Guide

The Buying Guide includes ratings and reviews of new-release and selected older beverage alcohol products evaluated by Wine Enthusiast Magazine’s editors and other qualified tasters. Regular contributors to our Buying Guide include Tasting Director Lauren Buzzeo, Executive Editor Susan Kostrzewa, Managing Editor Joe Czerwinski, Contributing Editors Michael Schachner, Anna Lee C. Iijima, Mike DeSimone and Jeff Jenssen, Contributing Taster Andrew Hoover and Spirits Editor Kara Newman in New York; European Editor Roger Voss in France; Italian Editor Kerin O’Keefe in Switzerland; Contributing Editor Anne Krebiehl in England; Con-tributing Editors Virginie Boone, Jim Gordon and Matt Kettmann in California; and Contributing Editors Paul Gregutt and Sean Sullivan in Washington.

If a wine was evaluated by a single reviewer, that taster’s ini-tials appear following the note. When no initials appear follow-ing a wine review, the wine was evaluated by two or more review-ers and the score and tasting note reflect the input of all tasters. Unless otherwise stated, all Spirits Reviews are by Kara Newman and all beer reviews are by Lauren Buzzeo.

Each review contains a score, the full name of the product, its suggested national retail price, its abv as reported to us by the submitter and a tasting note. If price or alcohol content cannot be confirmed, NA (not available) will be printed. Prices are for 750-ml bottles unless otherwise indicated.

TASTING METHODOLOGY AND GOALSAll tastings reported in the Buying Guide are performed blind un-less otherwise noted. Typically, products are tasted in peer-group flights of from 5–8 samples. Price is not a factor in assigning scores. When possible, products considered flawed or uncustom-ary are retasted.

ABOUT THE SCORESRatings reflect what our editors felt about a particular product. Beyond the rating, we encourage you to read the accompanying tasting note to learn about a product’s special characteristics.

Classic 98–100: The pinnacle of quality. Superb 94–97: A great achievement. Excellent 90–93: Highly recommended. Very Good 87–89: Often good value; well recommended. Good 83–86: Suitable for everyday consumption; often good value. Acceptable 80–82: Can be employed in casual, less- critical circumstances.

Products deemed Unacceptable (receiving a rating below 80 points) are not reviewed.

SPECIAL DESIGNATIONSEditors’ Choice products are those that offer excellent qual-

ity at a price above our Best Buy range, or a product at any price with unique qualities that merit special attention.

Cellar Selections are products deemed highly collectible and/or requiring time in a temperature-controlled wine cellar to reach their maximum potential. A Cellar Selection designation does not mean that a product must be stored to be enjoyed, but that cellaring will probably result in a more enjoyable bottle. In general, an optimum time for cellaring will be indicated.

Best Buys are products that offer a high level of quality in relation to price. There are no specific guidelines or formulae for determining Best Buys, but wines meriting this award are gener-ally priced at $15 or less.

SUBMITTING PRODUCTS FOR REVIEWProducts should be submitted to the appropriate reviewing lo-cation as detailed in our FAQ, available online via winemag.com/contactus. Inquiries should be addressed to the Tasting & Review Department at 914.345.9463 or email tastings@wineenthusiast.net. There is no charge for submitting products. We make every effort to taste all products submitted for review, but there is no guarantee that all products submitted will be tasted, or that reviews will appear in the magazine. All samples must be accompanied by the appropriate submission forms, which may be downloaded from our Web site.

LABELSLabels are paid promotions. Producers and importers are given the opportunity to submit labels, which are reproduced and printed along with tasting notes and scores. For information on label purchases, contact Denise Valenza at 813.571.1122; fax 866.896.8786; or email dvalenza@wineenthusiast.net.

Find all reviews on our fully searchable database at buyingguide.winemag.com

BUYINGGUIDE

4 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | AUGUST 2014

93 Clos de la Tech 2009 Domaine du Docteur Rodgers Pinot Noir (San Francisco Bay).

While impressive now for its weight and flavor profile, this should evolve well, thanks to its heavy tannins and ample concentration. Right now, there is wet earth and prominent mint on the nose. The palate also picks up spearmint, with sagebrush, licorice and tobacco as well. The tannins emerge at the end of the sip, and will continue to smooth out beyond 2020. Cellar Selection. —M.K. abv: 14.1% Price: $102

93 La Follette 2011 Manchester Ridge Vineyard Chardonnay (Mendocino Ridge). Greg La Fol-

lette shows his mastery with this Chardonnay from cool Manchester Ridge. Dark gold in color, this ethe-real wine is punctuated by pretty floral and citrus tones on the nose. On the palate, expect a sugges-tive core of lemon, guava and lingering minerality, especially through a finish that’s flush with acidity. —V.B. abv: 14.8% Price: $48

92 Bianchi 2011 Signature Selection Garey Vine-yard Pinot Noir (Santa Maria Valley). Stewed

tomatoes, black pepper and pencil shavings kick off this intriguing wine. It then hits the palate with re-markable suavity and ends with a long strawberry finish. In between, the spice rack rules, making this a suitable pairing for Indian curries or other adven-turously seasoned cuisine. Editors’ Choice. —M.K. abv: 14.7% Price: $22

92 Bodkin 2013 Musqué Clone Sauvignon Blanc (Lake County). The label on this impres-

sively balanced, vital and complete Sauvignon Blanc would have been at home on a medieval knight’s ta-ble. The wine is fresh, concentrated and seamlessly melds bright citrus and lightly herbal aromas into a lively grapefruit and crisp apple character that ex-pands on the palate and lingers on the finish. Edi-tors’ Choice. —J.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $22

92 Erasmo 2009 Late Harvest Torontel (Maule Valley). This Torontel is elegant and stately,

delivering apricot, peach, mango and spice aromas on the bouquet. A fruity, full-bodied palate is sticky but braced by proper acidity, while cinnamon, cara-mel, toffee and baked pear flavors finish long and yummy. Palm Bay International. Editors’ Choice. —M.S. abv: 12.5% Price: $40/375 ml

92 Chacewater 2011 Made With Organically Grown Grapes Syrah (Sierra Foothills). A

meaty, gamy Syrah boasting aromas of bacon and duck-liver mousse, this wine delivers tremendous flavor and quality for the price. It offers plenty of body around a core of plush, savory tannins and a long finish of pepper and cinnamon spice. Start slic-ing the charcuterie. Editors’ Choice. —V.B. abv: 13.9% Price: $20

92 Elizabeth Chambers 2011 Winemaker’s Cuvée Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley). An elegant

debut for this new Oregon winery, the Winemaker’s Cuvée opens with lovely floral and herbal scents, moving into a detailed, precise and well-configured palate, with pretty raspberry and cherry candy fruit. It’s set in a sturdy frame of acid and tannin, and seems to gain concentration through the long finish. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 13.3% Price: $32

92 JM Cellars 2011 Margaret’s Vineyard Estate Red (Walla Walla Valley). A five-grape, Bor-

deaux-style blend, this young wine is still pulling itself together, but already shows ripe, substantial, nicely textured components. The crisp black fruits are etched with ripe tannins, and aging in 75% new French oak adds chocolate and espresso tones. Edi-tors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 14.6% Price: $36

91 Bodkin 2013 The Victor’s Spoils Sauvignon Blanc (Lake County). Fans of Sancerre will

love this complex, lean and lively Sauvignon. The color is a light straw-yellow and aromas recall grapefruit and lime. Flavors of bright, tangy citrus continue on the palate, with a note of white pepper. The snappy balance and lithe texture keeps every-thing echoing on the finish. Editors’ Choice. —J.G. abv: 12.1% Price: $18

WINEMAG.COM | 5

91 Boekenoogen 2011 Estate Chardonnay (Santa Lucia Highlands). Vanilla soda, pineapple and

a touch of herbaceousness hit the nose first in this Chardonnay, which is grown high in the Santa Lu-cia range by a family that’s ranched the land since the 1850s. On the palate, some creaminess emerges alongside flavors of tart green apple and toffee nuts. Serve with lemon-herb chicken or well-seasoned fish dishes. —M.K. abv: 14.5% Price: $38

91 Center of Effort 2011 Center of Effort Estate Chardonnay (Edna Valley). This wine hails

from an estate that dates back to 1978, but was more recently purchased by San Luis Obispo developer Rob Rossi and Raytheon CEO Bill Swanson. They assembled a “dream team” of growers (the Talley family) and winemakers (Mike Sinor and Nathan Carlson). The wine boasts a lifting nose of cream, hazelnut and baked apples, then dances across the palate with lemon-zest and flint flavors. —M.K. abv: 14.2% Price: $30

91 Foley 2011 Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). Coming from the dramatic Lindsay’s Vineyard, which

rises from 500 to 1,000 feet in the Sta. Rita Hills, this highly nuanced wine overdelivers on multiple fronts. The nose mixes floral notes of violet and rose with an herbal tone of dried oregano, alongside fruity sour cherry. On the palate, there’s graphite, espresso, purple flowers like lavender and a tad of tobacco, both fresh and smoked. —M.K. abv: 14.2% Price: $40

91 Franz Keller 2012 Schwarzer Adler Pinot Blanc (Baden). Alluring honeysuckle notes accent

aromas of fresh apples and pears in this unusu-ally blossomy Pinot Blanc. Floral notes penetrate through the palate as well, adding exuberance to flavors of white peaches and yellow cherries. Dry in style, with a bold, expansive mouthfeel, it’s elegant and superbly satisfying. Schmitt-Söhne USA. —A.I. abv: 13% Price: $25

91 Lucas & Lewellen 2012 Estate Vineyards Char-donnay (Santa Barbara County). Taking off

with a bright tangerine and lime nose, the citrus carries through to the palate, where grapefruit fla-vors take the varietal into curious yet compelling places. Acidity is at the forefront, thanks to the all-stainless-steel processing, but it feels strategically integrated. —M.K. abv: 14.5% Price: $20

91 Ponzi 2013 Pinot Gris (Willamette Valley). This leesy and creamy yet bracing wine re-

veals abundant melon, citrus and pear fruit flavors. Balance and finesse are on full display, as always the case in Luisa Ponzi’s wines. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 12.8% Price: $17

91 S.A. Prüm 2011 Graacher Dompropst GG Ries-ling (Mosel). While intensely aromatic of

honey and marmalade, this powerfully structured wine is dry in style. Rich, round and expansive on the palate, with intense flavors of tart stone fruit and lemon, it’s anchored by a steely, mineraly back-bone. It finishes long and with impeccable focus. Palm Bay International. —A.I. abv: 12.5% Price: $72

91 Santa Alicia 2010 Millantu (Maipo Valley). A harmonious mix of dry spice, herbal berry

and rubbery aromas sets up a full-bodied palate that’s brimming with ample oak and firm tannins. This blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Carmenère is rugged but generous, with loads of raspberry, plum and herbal flavors resting be-fore an earthy finish of acidic vitality, tomato notes and herbal impressions. Drink through 2018. Halby Marketing. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $30

91 Ternion 2011 Pinot Noir (Santa Barbara Coun-ty). Distinctive aromatic qualities mark this

afforable bottling, an exclusive for Hawaiian su-permarket chain Foodland from the team at Terra-vant Wine Company in Buellton. The aromas recall chaparral scrub, mint tea and black sage. The her-baceousness continues on the palate, with a sticky tannic structure. Not exactly the wine for those seeking a red fruit experience, but good for those seeking the savory side of the grape. —M.K. abv: 13.8% Price: $23

BUYINGGUIDE

6 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | AUGUST 2014

90 Schloss Vollrads 2012 Riesling Kabinett (Rheingau). The nose on this invigorating

medium-sweet Riesling is fresh and green, with notes of lime zest, herbs and pine fronds. On the palate, juicy white grapefruit and orange blossom flavors are sunny and bright, finishing on a long, penetrating mineral tone. Beautifully balanced and irresistibly tasty. Schmitt-Söhne USA. —A.I. abv: 9.5% Price: $25

90 Vinum Cellars 2010 The Scrapper Cabernet Franc (El Dorado County). The Scrapper is

aptly named, packing plenty of flavorful punches into a structured but softly tannic wine. Peppery, especially in aroma, it offers full-bodied leathery black cherry fruit and concentrated layers of savory chocolate. It’s delicious and would make a fine pair-ing with any steak. —V.B. abv: 14.9% Price: $30

90 Wente 2011 The Nth Degree Merlot (Liver-more Valley). Among Wente’s highest-

priced offerings, this is an elegant Merlot, velvety textured and succulent in herbal cassis and luxuri-ous red plum and cherry. With a gorgeous mouth-feel and some weight to the body, it’ll stand up to equally elegant meals. —V.B. abv: 14.2% Price: $80

90 Willamette Valley Vineyards 2012 Bernau Block Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley). Young,

tart and compact, this is still in the primary fruit phase of its development. Clean, impactful and nicely structured, its flavors run from cranberry to raspberry to light cherry, all running deep enough to suggest tucking it away in the cellar for a few more years. Cellar Selection. —P.G. abv: 13.9% Price: $55

89 Lucas & Lewellen 2010 Valley View Vine-yard Cabernet Sauvignon (Santa Barbara

County). Santa Barbara County pioneer Louis Lucas pushes the possibilities of Cabernet in the Santa Ynez Valley. Earthy aromas of wet rock commingle nicely with cinnamon spice and cherry fruit. Once sipped, strong tannins show upfront, with herbs and cherry throughout. This one will get better with time, so cellar until 2018. Cellar Selection. —M.K. abv: 14% Price: $27

87 Americano 2011 Petite Sirah (California). A tribute to Samuele Sebastiani, this Petite

Sirah is blended with 17% Cabernet Sauvignon and 2% Merlot, most of the grapes from Lodi. It delivers a bigger-than-life glass of roasted plum and blue-berry, bacon and earthy cedar. Soft and approach-able now, the tannins are lushly present, the finish marked by toasty oak and vanilla. —V.B. abv: 13.5% Price: $17

87 Vinum Cellars 2012 White Elephant (Cali-fornia). This is an intriguing combination

of 59% Chenin Blanc, 25% Roussanne and 16% Viognier from a range of California regions, includ-ing Clarksburg, Santa Barbara and Sonoma Coun-ty. Barrel-fermented and given some time in used French oak, it offers a tasty mélange of fig, guava and vanilla custard, a viscous mouthfeel and a crisp, complex finish. —V.B. abv: 13.9% Price: $20

BEST BUYS

90 A to Z 2013 Riesling (Oregon). Just a hint of sweetness—mostly from ripe fruit rather

than residual sugar—livens up this fresh and fruity Riesling. It’s a mouthful of lemon, lime and peach fruit flavors, supple and fleshy. A streak of English breakfast tea adds interest through the finish. Best Buy. —P.G. abv: 13% Price: $15

90 Bridlewood 2012 Blend 175 (Central Coast). This savory blend of Syrah, Grenache, Pe-

tite Sirah and Viognier (developed, Bridlewood claims, after tasting through the winery’s lots 175 times) delivers black pepper, vanilla, stewed fig and roasted pork to the nose. It then clings to flavors like sage and sautéed plum that are more often found in cool-climate Syrah. The tannins are slightly rough, so this may be best in 2015, but it’s drinking well now. Best Buy. —M.K. abv: 13.9% Price: $15

WINEMAG.COM | 7

BEST BUYS

90 Fossil Point 2011 Chardonnay (Edna Valley). A rewarding deal from the ocean- influenced

vineyards of Edna Valley, this project by Nathan Carlson (general manager of the much higher- priced Center of Effort winery) delivers honey, salted nuts, tangerine zest and crushed limestone on the nose. Salinity is present on the palate, along with a lemon zing that lingers. Best Buy. —M.K. abv: 14.2% Price: $14

89 Cameron Hughes 2012 Collection Cabernet Sauvignon (Lake County). One heck of a val-

ue, this elegant, spicy Cabernet comes alive with to-bacco and blackberry flavors that broaden in scope and flavor as you sip. Ample tannins and acidity round out the smooth texture. The wine is deeply colored, aromatically inviting and completely satis-fying on the finish. Best Buy. —V.B. abv: 14.1% Price: $15

89 Castle Rock 2011 Pinot Noir (Monterey Coun-ty). For an affordable bottling in a difficult

year, this wine packs decent luggage. There’s a nice mix of red fruit, earthy funk and brown spice on the nose, followed up by a soft, full mouthfeel that’s dominated by warm red fruit and supported by an ample, acidic backbone. Best Buy. —M.K. abv: 13.5% Price: $14

BEST BUYS

89 Côté Mas 2012 Rosé Aurore Rosé (Pays d’Oc). Made from 50% Grenache, 30% Cinsault

and 20% Syrah, this is a vibrant, floral rosé, offer-ing upfront aromas of iris, lavender and laurel that complement the raspberry and strawberry-hull core. The fruity palate is bright and refreshing, with ample acidity and just a hint of orange blossom on the finish. Esprit du Vin. Best Buy. —L.B. abv: 13% Price: $12

89 Stone Wolf 2012 Barrel Select Cuvée Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley). This is a toasty,

tasty, forward and easy-drinking Pinot Noir. Flavors of black cherry soda, cola and light toast are front and center, and the finish comes on clean and re-freshing. Best Buy. —P.G. abv: 13% Price: $14

89 Winzer Krems 2013 Kremser Sandgrube Grüner Veltliner (Kremstal). Ripe yellow

pears and an earthy edge knit together this refresh-ing yet concentrated white that finishes with the clean tang of lemon zest. Total Wine & More. Best Buy. —A.K. abv: 12.5% Price: $14

BEST BUYS

88 Aveleda 2013 Alvarinho (Minho). Produced from Alvarinho grown in the southern Min-

ho region, near the Douro Valley, this is a particular-ly crisp and fruity wine. Great streaks of acidity give it a fresh character. It needs to age a few months to round it out; drink from 2015. Aveleda Imports. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $13

88 Noble Vines 2011 181 Merlot (Lodi). A plush, lush, value-priced Merlot, this is herbal and

rich in truffle mushroom, fierce black-cherry fruit and oak. The generous finish suggests a measured helping of spice. Best Buy. —V.B. abv: 13.5% Price: $13

88 Pratsch 2013 Made With Organic Grapes Grüner Veltliner (Niederösterreich). Crisp

green pear, a touch of lemon and even some of that much-vaunted pepperiness find their way into this unobtrusive but refreshing white, which also boasts some welcome spritz. Winesellers Ltd. Best Buy. —A.K. abv: 12.5% Price: $15/1 L

BUYINGGUIDE

8 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | AUGUST 2014

BEST BUYS

87 Gnarly Head 2012 Old Vine Zinfandel (Lodi). Soft, spicy and jammy, this is rich in clove

and big-hearted blackberry fruit. Easy to like and pleasantly affordable, it’ll pour well for parties and other occasions where a bold, crowd-pleasing red wine is in order. Best Buy. —V.B. abv: 14% Price: $12

87 Peirano 2012 The Heritage Collection Char-donnay (Lodi). Generous in lemon custard

and pear aromas and flavors, this is a fairly full-bodied style of Chardonnay. It offers roundness bal-anced by a minerally finish. Best Buy. —V.B. abv: 13.8% Price: $12

86 Castle Rock 2012 Pinot Grigio (Monterey County). Pungent jasmine and orange blos-

som take hold of the nose right away, ensuring that this won’t be one of those flavorless Pinot Grigios to forget. On the palate, roasted pear and slight toffee tones mingle with lemon-lime acidity, making this wine a nice fit for backyard gatherings featuring shrimp on the barbie. Best Buy. —M.K. abv: 13.5% Price: $11

BEST BUYS

86 Viña Requingua 2013 Puerto Viejo Estate Bottled Single Vineyard Reserve Sauvignon

Blanc (Maule Valley). Here is a straightforward Cen-tral Valley Sauvignon Blanc with prickly aromas of citrus and jalapeño. The wine delivers flavors of passion fruit, lime and green herbs in front of a short, crisp finish. Puerto Viejo Wines. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $10

85 Aveleda 2013 Casal Garcia Branco (Vinho Verde). Bright, fruity and fresh, this familiar

Vinho Verde brand does exactly what it’s meant to do: provide a refreshing, light glass of wine. Apples and citrus easily carry the lightly sweet flavors and blend with an orange zest texture. Drink immedi-ately. Aveleda Imports. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 10% Price: $8

85 Santa Rita 2013 120 Sauvignon Blanc (Cen-tral Valley). This is an approachable, light-

weight Sauvignon Blanc with upfront tropical fruit aromas. The mouthfeel is clean and mild, while fla-vors of white grapefruit and lime finish sweet and easy, alongside notes of dried pineapple and mango. Palm Bay International. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $9

BEST BUYS

85 Viña Requingua 2012 Puerto Viejo Estate Bottled Single Vineyard Reserve Cabernet

Sauvignon (Curicó Valley). Ripe, loamy berry aromas are soft at heart but are picked up by lemony oak scents in this wine. Flavors of raisin, baked berry, herbs and oak finish on the woody, resiny side. Puerto Viejo Wines. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $10

SPIRITS

98 Appleton Estate Aged 21 Years (Jamaica; Campari America, San Francisco, CA). This

gorgeous copper-hued rum seems to shift flavors with every sip, encouraging contemplation. It starts with dry notes of espresso and bittersweet chocolate, then morphs into dark, mouthwatering brown sugar, toffee and clove, before easing into a spiced finish reminiscent of chai tea with a hint of white peach. abv: 43% Price: $140

94 Mount Gay Black Barrel (Barbados; Remy Cointreau, New York, NY). Finished in

“deeply toasted and charred” Bourbon casks, this mouthwatering small-batch rum skews to the sweeter side, offering bold notes of cola, allspice and vanilla, finishing brisk and spicy. Sip straight or mix for the ultimate rum & Coke. abv: 43% Price: $30

WINEMAG.COM | 9

SPIRITS

93 Appleton Estate V/X (Jamaica; Campari America, San Francisco, CA). Consider this

smooth and pleasing rum for dessert pairings. It has a slightly sweet, distinctively nutty flavor that sug-gests almond and hazelnut, plus touches of baked apple and spice and a buttery finish. Best Buy.abv: 40% Price: $20

91 Appleton Estate Reserve (Jamaica; Campari America, San Francisco, CA). Like spice cake

in a glass, this light, silky rum is scented with tof-fee and allspice. It features notes of brown sugar, vanilla and baking spice on the gentle palate. abv: 40% Price: $27/1 L

91 Mount Gay Eclipse (Barbados; Remy Coin-treau, New York, NY). Golden and mild. Look

for notes of brown sugar, oak and warming baking spice throughout, ending on a crisp, bright finish. Best Buy.abv: 40% Price: $20

SPIRITS

90 Seven Fathoms Cayman Islands Premium Rum (Cayman Islands; Luxe Wines & Spirits,

Delray Beach, FL). The story behind this amber rum is that it’s “matured underwater at a depth of seven fathoms (42 feet),” beneath the Caribbean seas. Look for bold toffee and brown sugar notes, finish-ing exceedingly long and spicy. It’s just the ticket for rum punches.abv: 40% Price: $70

CORRECTIONSOn page 43 of the June 2014 issue, it was stated that Sheryl Crow preferred to drink Stag’s Leap Cabernet and Chardonnay, along with other California wines. The information in that entry was outdated. “The Bottles Backstage” section was obtained by editors on the Smoking Gun Web site and was not confirmed with individual artists.

On page 87 of the July 2014 issue, the following label appeared with incorrect review information. The correct review text is as follows:

91 50 Harvests 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). This is a new brand from the Scotto

family. A celebration of the family’s 50-year his-tory of winemaking in California, it’s blended with a splash of Petit Verdot, with an accessible and friendly feel. It’s still pretty tannic, offering anise and herbal overtones beneath cracked pink pepper-corn and currant notes, but airing in the glass will soften the cassis and oak flavors. abv: 13.9% Price: $50

91 Foley 2011 Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). For full review see page 5.

abv: 14.2% Price: $40

91 Joseph Jewell 2011 Hallberg Vineyard Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). Fragrant and

inviting in dark cherry, raspberry and cola spice, this medium-weight Pinot Noir is lush and meaty. Bright flavors veer from dark cherry to raspberry, with a pronounced lift of earth and herb. The wine is layered, beautifully textured and long in the fin-ish. —V.B. abv: 13.94% Price: $44

91 Longoria 2011 Estate Fe Ciega Vineyard Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). Grown in Santa Barbara

County pioneer Rick Longoria’s estate vineyard, this grabs attention with tobacco smoke and funky earth aromas. On the palate, the savory smells switch to bright acidity, with cranberry and barely ripe raspberry taking hold and evolving into a last-ing finish. Stunning now, but it will emerge through 2019. —M.K. abv: 14.2% Price: $48

91 Riverbench 2011 Mesa Pinot Noir (Santa Maria Valley). Charred plums, roasted meat and a

tinge of truffle oil lead the nose on this powerful yet balanced wine. It hits the palate with a sanguine iron flavor and a pleasant tension thanks to appro-priate bitterness. This Pinot Noir can tackle the heartiest beef dish you can make. —M.K. abv: 13.5% Price: $48

91 Ternion 2011 Pinot Noir (Santa Barbara Coun-ty). For full review see page 5.

abv: 13.8% Price: $23

91 Tondré 2011 Tondré Grapefield Pinot Noir (Santa Lucia Highlands). Sweet meets earthy,

with aromas that recall grilled beets, cola and sas-safras. The bottling comes from the father-son team of Tondré and Joe Alarid, whose family has farmed the Salinas Valley for nearly a century and planted their vineyard in 1997. Homemade cran-berry sauce wins the palate, and the wine has more tannins than most Pinot Noirs of similar age. Enjoy now or cellar until 2016 for even more emerging flavors. —M.K. abv: 14.2% Price: $40

90 Ferrari-Carano 2010 Sky High Ranch Pinot Noir (Mendocino Ridge). Light in color and

soft in the glass, this well-built wine is bursting in red berry and cherry, with aromas of violet and oak and a finish laced in cherry-vanilla. Structured and finessed, it’s impressive for hearty pairings like pork or game, —V.B. abv: 14.7% Price: $42

90 Gallegos 2011 Boekenoogen Vineyard Pinot Noir (Santa Lucia Highlands). Aromas of

strawberry and rhubarb pie characterize this wine, one of the more fruit-forward Pinot Noirs of the

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leaner, more nuanced 2011 vintage. Those flavors per-sist on the palate, with well-rounded red fruit making a soft entry and smooth transition through the sipping experience. It finishes more quickly than some of its cohorts. —M.K. abv: 14.8% Price: $38

90 Guarachi Family 2012 Gap’s Crown Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). Within a statement-sized

bottle, this heavy, lush and aromatic Pinot Noir from a great vineyard could ignite debates about California Pinot styles. Aged about a year in all French oak, 65% of it new, it reveals an expanse of dark cherry fruit, velvety texture and plenty of structure amidst a leath-ery core and lengthy finish. —V.B. abv: 14.7% Price: $75

90 Philo Ridge 2010 Pinot Noir (Anderson Valley). Pretty and perfumed it exhibits dark cherry

from start to finish. Spice and cola notes explode mid-way through, and that see-saw balance between fruit and spice persists into the finish. Round and soft, with a lean texture, it’s very enjoyable. —V.B. abv: 13.61% Price: $36

90 Tudor Wines 2011 Hook Vineyard Pinot Noir (Santa Lucia Highlands). Smelling like a pas-

try shop, the wine offers red currant and warm brioche scents that recall raspberry tarts and freshly baked breads. It’s made by cousins Dan and Christian Tudor, whose family has made wines for thousands of years in Croatia, and grown table grapes since the 1920s in California. The body is fairly light, delivering tart raspberry flavors; decent acid makes the mouth water. —M.K. abv: 13.8% Price: $75

89 Bacio Divino 2012 Lucie Dutton Ranch Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). A nice layering

of spice, cola and cherry-vanilla swirls around this mid-sized Pinot Noir from a great Russian River Val-ley source. The finish offers light sprinklings of earthy herb. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $60

89 Castle Rock 2011 Pinot Noir (Monterey County). For full review see page 7. Best Buy.

abv: 13.5% Price: $14

89 Center of Effort 2011 Estate Pinot Noir (Edna Valley). From a vineyard just 4.5 miles from

the Pacific Ocean comes this inky wine, heady in aro-mas of freshly turned black dirt, sagebrush, menthol and boysenberry. On the palate, there is black pepper spice, dark chocolate and Earl Grey tea. Since it’s so multi-layered and powerful, it needs some time to breathe before diving in. Decant for sure. —M.K. abv: 14.4% Price: $45

89 Decoy 2012 Pinot Noir (Sonoma County). Light cherry-red in color, this nuanced Pinot is

bright in raspberry and tart grenadine, floral, with a spicy undercurrent of garden herb. Easy to like and

approachable it’s well-priced, high-quality and el-egantly balanced. —V.B. abv: 13.5% Price: $25

89 Guarachi Family 2012 Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). This inviting Pinot is broadly ripe and

fully lush in earthy, spicy layers, dark cherry and plum that plays across the palate. With a long, substantial finish, iot suits pork roasts and bacon-wrapped scal-lops. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $65

89 Kobler 2009 Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). Delicately floral in aroma, this soft, earthy Pi-

not offers blue and red berry fruit that are layered and generous on the finish. Food-friendly, it has the heft to stand up to bigger, bolder flavors on the plate or suffice as a sipping wine on its own. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $38

89 McIntyre Vineyards 2012 Estate 25th Anniver-sary Pinot Noir (Santa Lucia Highlands). The

McIntyre family took over their Santa Lucia Highlands vineyards in 1987. The wine kicks off with aromas of black mustard, violet and dark spices. Once sipped, the mouthfeel is rich and full, but the nondescript fla-vors fall somewhere between tart cranberry and warm strawberry. —M.K. abv: 14.6% Price: $36

89 Starmont 2012 Pinot Noir (Carneros). Brick-red in color this fragrant, soft Pinot Noir is

rich in rose petals and a lift of earthy red cherry. With a lilting texture and smooth edges around a well-man-aged core of acidity, the finish hits with a burst of cola spice. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $27

88 Anaba 2011 Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). With a small percentage of whole-cluster fermenta-

tion, this tight, cranberry-infused Pinot offers bright layers of cherry and citrus that are savory and well-adjusted in acidity. Softly textured it’s a good one to enjoy with pork tenderloin adorned in dried cherries. —V.B. abv: 13.9% Price: $34

88 Bacio Divino 2012 Lucie Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). This is a young, meaty Pinot,

a bottle of substantial red cherry, earthy mushroom and soil that’s bright and layered with a heartiness to the texture and finish. The back label mentions that the grapes were sourced from Bacigalupi Vineyards, a longstanding star in the Russian River Valley. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $60

88 Champ de Rêves 2011 Pinot Noir (Anderson Valley). A new project from Jackson Family

Wines from the Boone Ridge Vineyard, this is a volup-tuous Pinot delivers a substantial mouthfeel of dark blueberry fruit and mushroomy earth. Textured and grippy, its acidity is on the mark, a good go-to for fam-ily meals, especially a quiche Lorraine brimming with bacon. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $40

88 Harmonique 2007 Elegancé Pinot Noir (Ander-son Valley). Textured in bold cranberry and

strawberry fruit, this older Pinot still offers plenty of fruit and weight, though neither will necessarily last much longer. It shows a softness, and streaks of herb and allspice, too. This wine offers a chance to travel back in time to a healthy vintage for Anderson Valley and see the intermingling of savory with sweet. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $36

88 Kenneth Volk 2011 Pinot Noir (Santa Maria Valley). Starting with the strawberry syrup

nose so common in Pinot Noirs from the Santa Maria Valley, this tasty, approachable wine quickly comes across as more fun than pensive, with aromas border-ing on Hawaiian Punch. It’s very smooth once sipped, showing a bit more raspberry than strawberry on the palate, with some yeastiness and zing as well. —M.K. abv: 13.8% Price: $30

88 Masút 2012 Estate Vineyard Pinot Noir (Men-docino County). Given its high-octane aro-

ma of barrel and petrol, this Pinot is defined by its need to settle down, more disheveled teenager than the groomed adult it surely will become. The bones are there, dark berry fruit and lurking, earthy spice. There’s a developing softness to the texture, the aro-mas still being worked out. —V.B. abv: 13.9% Price: $40

87 Beaulieu Vineyard 2011 Coastal Estates Pinot Noir (Central Coast). The bouquet is like stick-

ing your nose in a bag of pencil shavings and shiitake mushrooms. The palate gets more expansive, offering cranberry as well as a hint of softer fruit like strawber-ry, with some crushed rock as well. This is a very af-fordable expression of Pinot Noir in what was a tough vintage, showing that the new energy BV is placing on this series of wines may just pay off. Best Buy. —M.K. abv: 14% Price: $11

87 Carpe Diem 2012 Pinot Noir (Anderson Val-ley). Burgundian in its earthy, feral aromas,

yet simultaneously jammy in flavor, this boasts gamy undertones and a soft texture. The producer recom-mends decanting an hour minimum before serving, and this will most likely help to blow off the wine’s rustically wild side. —V.B. abv: 14.1% Price: $35

87 Harmonique 2007 Delicacé Pinot Noir (Ander-son Valley). Muted aromatically, the wine is

still generous in bright red fruit flavors, mostly straw-berry-rhubarb and savory pomegranate, with accom-panying layers of allspice. On the midpalate is the sug-gestion of vanilla before the finish delves into herbal, slightly sour territory. —V.B. abv: 14.4% Price: $44

87 Robert Mondavi 2012 Napa Valley Pinot Noir (Carneros). There’s an electric current of spice

on the first sip. Beyond it are waves of faint strawberry and thin layers of ripe red cherry and a touch of herb. The finish lingers. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $26

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87 Three Sticks 2011 Silver Eagle Pinot Noir (Rus-sian River Valley). This wine offers concen-

tration in spades, a toasty rich bevy of heavy, black fruit flavors that sit with purpose on the tongue. From a Green Valley-area vineyard the grapes hung long until profound ripeness, resulting in this big boy wine. —V.B. abv: 15.5% Price: $60

87 Ziata 2010 Pinot Noir (Carneros-Napa Val-ley). A concentrated wine that’s tight in

cranberry and strawberry flavor. Hints of earth and garden herb unveil themselves slowly and a savory, leathery burst comes through on the finish. —V.B. abv: 14.1% Price: $45

86 Harmonique 2007 The Noble One Pinot Noir (Anderson Valley). Muted aromatically, it

has a light, bright core of cherry lurking in the lay-ers of juicy spice. The grapes come from the Klindt and Wiley Vineyards. Let it breathe or decant before drinking, and enjoy it soon. —V.B. abv: 14.7% Price: $39

86 Saint Gregory 2010 Pinot Noir (Mendocino County). Light in color and barely-there

aromas, this fine-tuned Pinot is faint in raspberry fruit. Soft and textured, the finish is quick. Priced fairly, it makes a nice choice for larger gatherings. —V.B. abv: 13.5% Price: $19

86 Tudor Wines 2011 Tondré Reserve Pinot Noir (Santa Lucia Highlands). This is a daintier

take on Pinot Noir, with cranberry and slate com-prising the subtle nose. On the palate, patience is required to identify the tart red fruit present, and the tannins seem to only get in the way. —M.K. abv: 13.8% Price: $75

85 Ternion 2011 Pinot Noir (Edna Valley). A smidgen of brown spice provides the entry

to this wine. Next, flavors of grapefruit and lemon rind deliver a tart flavor and tannic, grippy mouth-feel. Try using this wine’s acid to cut through some-thing rich, like lamb stew. —M.K. abv: 13.8% Price: $25

84 Hansen/Grunner 2009 Pinot Noir (Sonoma County). Soft and middle-aged, it offers a

serious bite on the finish that veers slightly into sour cherry and mushroom territory, the end result a bit dull. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $25

84 Indigené 2009 Pinot Noir (Carneros). This is an extracted Pinot Noir with dark, ripe

berry flavor with a sourness to the finish and a taste of heat. —V.B. abv: 14.4% Price: $24

84 Ternion 2011 Pinot Noir (Central Coast). The wine has lingering leather touches on the

tongue and quite a lot of bitter tension throughout. Like many 2011s, it shows a tartness and grip that

some may find pleasant, and others just challenging. Food seems a must for this wine, which comes out of Terravant Wine Company in Buellton; try fondue, salted meats, or aged cheese. —M.K. abv: 13.8% Price: $23

84 Unearthed 2012 Pinot Noir (Central Coast). The sanguine smells of iron and wet earth

characterize the aromatics of this bottling. It then slides into a tart, unripe raspberry flavor, with a faint hint of cola. As in many 2011s, the flavors seem to be stuck somewhere between primary fruit and secondary nuances, with mouth-biting but not pleasure-enhancing acidity in the leading role. —M.K. abv: 13.8% Price: $16

83 Peters Family 2011 Pinot Noir (Sonoma Mountain). This wine went through native

yeast and malolactic fermentation before aging for more than two years in all French oak and the re-sults are mixed. There’s faint cherry amid a heavy load of forest floor and wild horse, the wine’s layers somewhat muddled. —V.B. abv: 14.2% Price: $45

83 Saddle Ranch 2011 Pinot Noir (Central Coast). Bing cherries rise to the top of the

aroma profile, but the flavors, like many 2011s, ap-pear unwilling to share themselves in any forward way, even after the wine is opened for some time. It necessitates much searching to get past the tart and lean vintage to find the limited but characteristic flavors of Pinot Noir. —M.K. abv: 13.8% Price: $33

SYRAH

95 Donkey & Goat 2011 Perli Vineyards Syrah (Mendocino Ridge). For full review see page

3. abv: 13.5% Price: $40

94 Terre Rouge 2011 Monarch Mine Vineyard Syrah (Sierra Foothills). Generous in bram-

bly wild raspberry fruit and leather, this lush bot-tling has peppery spice to spare. Aromatically it’s as fine as perfume, floral and pretty; in texture, it’s soft, but with just the right tension and electricity. Savory and spicy, it will bring out similar character-istics at the table. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $30

93 Donkey & Goat 2011 The Recluse Broken Leg Vineyard Syrah (Anderson Valley). There

are subtle wild cherry and blackberry high notes in this stellar Syrah, much of it whole-cluster pressed from a cool site in a cool year. That combination of site and year dance into a peppery, leathery, savory, slightly smoky Syrah, medium in body, that’s more about complexity and finesse than power. —V.B. abv: 13.1% Price: $40

92 Chacewater 2011 Made With Organically Grown Grapes Syrah (Sierra Foothills). For

full review see page 4. Editors’ Choice.abv: 13.9% Price: $20

92 Terre Rouge 2011 Ascent Syrah (Sierra Foot-hills). Terre Rouge’s annual best of the best

barrels is luxurious in leather and smoky oak, grip-py tobacco flirting through the midpalate through to the end. Concentrated in brambly black fruit and a core of gamy meat, it’ll expand its world in due time, the layers of complexity like an Escher sketch, with no discernible end. Cellar Selection. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $90

90 Fields Family 2011 Estate Syrah (Lodi). Fra-grantly floral, it offers ripe red fruit in deli-

cate balance, its tannins softened and the oak im-print kept at a minimum. The vines are thought to be more than 25 years old, the clone and rootstock unknown. An elegant, tightly woven Syrah. —V.B. abv: 14.2% Price: $22

90 La Clarine Farm 2012 Suma Kaw Syrah (Si-erra Foothills). The wines from this pro-

ducer always resemble one another aromatically in a unique way. There’s bright wild strawberry and healthy handfuls of black and white pepper amidst an earthy, smoky edge. Young, firm, light on the tongue, the finish picks up substantial steam, a hit of herbal smoke there for the taking. —V.B. abv: 14.2% Price: $25

89 Borra 2010 47.5 Degree Syrah (Clements Hills). Unusual, and aromatically bursting

in cardamom and subtle black pepper, this lush, ripe Syrah is restrained in plum fruit, packed with leathery meaty overtones and a shot of espresso on the finish. —V.B. abv: 15% Price: $35

89 Meyer Family 2010 HIgh Ground Reserve Syrah (Yorkville Highlands). A concentrat-

ed combination of blackberry and blueberry fruit, entwined in straps of leather, this soft, structured wine offers suggestions of meat and spicy pepper. From vineyard located inland from the cooler An-derson Valley, it delivers ripeness throughout, end-ing on a high note towards the finish. —V.B. abv: 14.3% Price: $42

89 Olabisi 2008 King Vineyard Syrah (Suisun Valley). There are swirls of faint red rasp-

berry and black cherry in this wine, otherwise rich in ripe flavor and a taste of red licorice. Soft, satis-fying and structured, it’s got some weight to it, and some definite grip. A big wine for big meals. —V.B. abv: 15.5% Price: $30

88 Donkey & Goat 2011 Fenaughty Vineyard Syrah (El Dorado). Savory as a weathered

leather chair, this vintage of Fenaughty is all spice, smoke and meat, smooth and structured, and re-markably low in alcohol, a feat that’s probably pret-ty challenging to achieve in the Foothills. The firm

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12 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | AUGUST 2014

tannins should keep this fine specimen going for a while in the cellar. —V.B. abv: 12.2% Price: $40

88 Terre Rouge 2011 DTR Ranch Syrah (Fiddle-town). DTR is Domaine de la Terre Rouge’s

home site, planted in 1999, and its coolest. Given that, the aromas suggest more ripeness than would be expected, a heady mix of plum and brambly berry, with an undertone of minerality that keeps things zipping along. —V.B. abv: 13.8% Price: $40

88 Terre Rouge 2011 High Slopes Syrah (Sierra Foothills). This is a fully formed mouth-

ful of a wine, meaty and smoky and brisk in savory fruit. From one of Terre Rouge’s higher-elevation sites, it signals mountain fruit for sure, in terms of tannins and structure, but offers finesse in the glass, too. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $35

87 Yorba 2008 Shake Ridge Vineyards Syrah (Amador County). Earthy with an expansive

mouthfeel, this brambly, savory Syrah reveals hints of herb and deep, dark black fruit. It comes from a great vineyard site and is structured to age; give it air before enjoying with a proper cassoulet. —V.B. abv: 14.8% Price: $32

86 Terre Rouge 2011 Les Côtes de l’Ouest Syrah (California). A remarkable wine for under

$20, well made and varietally defined in cinnamon, white pepper and gamy red fruit. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $18

86 Terre Rouge 2011 Sentinel Oak Vineyard-Pyr-amid Block Syrah (Shenandoah Valley). Well

proportioned, this wine is meaty and barrel-heavy, concentrated in generous, spicy layers of dark, black fruit. Sentinel Oak is considered to be the oldest Syrah vineyard in the Sierra Nevada, established in 1982. The vines are showing the savory imprint of age. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $40

83 Wise Villa 2010 Estate Grown, Produced and Bottled Syrah (Sierra Foothills). There’s very

little going on aromatically. On the palate it offers a wealth of tannin but, otherwise, its characteris-tics are hard to decipher. A fairly generic red wine. —V.B. abv: 13.5% Price: $29

82 Peirano 2012 The Heritage Collection Syrah (Lodi). A stewy, thin version of Syrah that

could be almost any red wine. —V.B. abv: 14.2% Price: $12

PETITE SIRAH

90 Occasio 2011 Del Arroyo Vineyard Petite Sirah (Livermore Valley). Petite Sirah has a

long history in Livermore Valley and the Del Arroyo

Vineyard from which this wine hails is planted to the heritage Concannon clone. Restrained and spicy, it offers velvety blackberry and raspberry fruit and a lingering tropical aroma, encased with a morsel of dark chocolate. With well-managed tannins, the wine begs to be set on the table alongside peppery steaks. —V.B. abv: 14.9% Price: $35

89 Cedar Creek 2009 Petite Sirah (Fair Play). Pretty in floral spiciness, this wine is a wor-

thy continuation from the previous vintage, leath-ery and restrained, more soft red and blue fruit than burly black. Smooth and earthy, the finish is linger-ing. This food-friendly Petite Sirah is ready to enjoy now with a hearty roast. —V.B. abv: 13.5% Price: $32

88 Chacewater 2011 Petite Sirah (Lake County). A very good vintage for Chacewater PS,

which has a handful of Petit Verdot blended in too. Offering ripe plum, raspberry and boysenberry fruit flavors, the wine is layered and restrained, the tan-nins well-behaved. On the finish, a taste of licorice peeks through. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $20

88 Macchia 2011 Rebellious Petite Sirah (Lodi). Richly effusive, it’s marked by blue and

black berry fruit that’s almost jammy, swathed in chocolaty toffee. The wine shows off Macchia’s prowess with Lodi fruit, its acidity pert throughout, especially into the finish, which also features plenty of toasty oak. —V.B. abv: 14.4% Price: $24

88 McCay Cellars 2011 Petite Sirah (Lodi). Soft, light and layered in raspberry spice, this is a

refreshing take on Petite Sirah, less about intensity than enjoyment. A fine food-pairing wine, it won’t overtake the table, complementing peppery steaks and roasts with its own measured seasoning. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $26

88 Olabisi 2008 King Vineyard Petite Sirah (Su-isun Valley). From a dry-farmed vineyard

and treated to wild yeast and minimal new French oak, this Petite is chewy in leathery tannins, a defi-nite crowd pleaser for Petite fans. Blackberries, cof-fee and pepper commingle impressively. —V.B. abv: 14.9% Price: $38

88 Two Angels 2009 Petite Sirah (High Valley). Rich in sanguine, leathery, blackberry and

chocolate flavors, this velvety Petite Sirah, with a nose of violets, offers both decadence and elegance. The finish is all about cinnamon toast with a bite of oak. —V.B. abv: 14.6% Price: $27

87 Americano 2011 Petite Sirah (California). For full review see page 6.

abv: 13.5% Price: $17

86 Concannon 2010 Nina’s Cuvée Petite Sirah (Livermore Valley). With a strong under-

current of bell pepper, this soft Petite Sirah has tense shadings of peppery spice and leather. Ready to drink now. —V.B. abv: 14.1% Price: $36

86 Macchia 2011 Bodacious Petite Sirah (Ama-dor County). Steeped in smoky black fruit,

this is a chewier version of Petite, ripe and meaty, black as night. Amid the ripe black fruit, a flash of red fruit midway through a taste leads to the big, tannic finish. —V.B. abv: 14.8% Price: $24

85 Black Bear, Red Chair 2011 Petite Sirah (Si-erra Foothills). Hearty in red plum and

raspberry, this smooth, structured Petite is ready to drink now, straightforward rather than complex. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $18

85 Concannon 2009 Polo Field Vineyard 50th Anniversary Release Petite Sirah (Livermore

Valley). This soft wine has a roasted fruit quality to it. Layers of jammy berry and plum show amidst a savory profile of tamed tannins and earth. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $36

85 Vinum Cellars 2010 Petite Sirah (Clarks-burg). Aromas of smoky leather jump out of

the glass followed by chocolate and rich red fruit. The finish returns to the chocolate theme, accom-panied by vanilla bean. Expect Petite Sirah’s classic color and texture in this wine, a tremendous value for the price. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $15

84 Christine Andrew 2012 Petite Sirah (Sierra Foothills). This Petite is shy in forward

fruit, showing a faint mix of red and blue berry, with a hint of leathery smoke in the background. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $19

84 Wise Villa 2010 Petite Sirah (Sierra Foot-hills). This Petite opens with pretty floral

aromatics, followed by a core of structured, rich red fruit and a soft texture. It veers slightly sour on the finish. —V.B. abv: 13% Price: $29

83 Spenker 2009 Estate Bottled Petite Sirah (Lodi). A pronounced char of toasty oak

marks this wine most, the rest of it a combination of slightly overripe plum and chocolate. —V.B. abv: 13.5% Price: $26

80 Peirano 2012 The Heritage Collection Petite Sirah (Lodi). This Petite Sirah has a strong

aroma of farm and funk, and not much else to dis-tinguish itself. —V.B. abv: 13.8% Price: $12

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ZINFANDEL

94 Newsome-Harlow 2011 Shake Ridge Ranch Zinfandel (Amador County). Darker and

more brooding than many of Newsome-Harlow’s other single-vineyard bottlings in the 2011 vintage, the Shake Ridge is mighty in black pepper and dark chocolate, silky and voluptuous with mellowed tan-nins. Blended with 8% Petite Sirah, the ranch’s Zin clones include Monte Rosso. —V.B. abv: 14.8% Price: $36

93 Newsome-Harlow 2011 Herbert Vineyard Zin-fandel (El Dorado County). Winemaker Scott

Klann combines with friend and fellow winemaker Marco Cappelli, the owner of Herbert Vineyard, to craft this celebration of elegant blackberry, jammy fruit, black pepper and licorice. Fine-tuned and el-egant, it’s also brawny, with substantial mouthfeel and texture. —V.B. abv: 14.7% Price: $36

93 Newsome-Harlow 2011 The Donner Party The Dalton Ranch Zinfandel (Calaveras County).

A consistent standout among Newsome-Harlow’s stellar lineup of single-vineyard Zins, The Don-ner Party is rich in blackberry liqueur and licorice, finely structured and soft in tannins, with a dusty, mocha-lined finish and just the right seasoning of leather. Blended with 12% Petite Sirah. —V.B. abv: 14.7% Price: $36

92 Newsome-Harlow 2011 Zinfandel (Calaveras County). Newsome-Harlow’s largest bot-

tling, the Calaveras County is a delicious deal at $24, steeped in ebullient cherry and raspberry high tones, juicy yet entirely elegant. A classic Califor-nia Zin in all the best senses, it offers black pepper, muted chocolate and softly layered structure. —V.B. abv: 14.4% Price: $24

92 Newsome-Harlow 2011 Big John Zinfandel (Calaveras County). With 4% Petite Sirah

blended in, the Big John Zin is bright in dusty red fruit, briary and brambly, with a hint of spice and nutty almond. Focused and textured, the finish is fully satisfying, the spice piquing interest again. —V.B. abv: 14.6% Price: $36

91 Easton 2011 Old Vine Rinaldi Vineyard Zin-fandel (Fiddletown). A beautiful bottling

that will prosper with time, easily until 2024, this grippy, earthy Zin offers soft plum and brambly blackberry amid a pretty, floral nose and plenty of peppery anise and earth. Aged in French oak from low-yielding vines originally planted in 1865, this is a premier example of Fiddletown Zin made with precision and care. Cellar Selection. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $28

90 Easton 2011 E Zinfandel (Fiddletown). An-other Fiddletown beauty, this one is pun-

gent in blackberry and exhilarating pepper and

clove. Aromatic, structured and electric with equal parts acidity and stony minerality, this wine has a long-lingering finish of gorgeous brambly fruit. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $24

90 Easton 2011 Estate Bottled Zinfandel (Shenandoah Valley). A robust Zin, this

wine’s lusty, cinnamon-spice aromas carry through on the tongue, while the texture is refined and rich. With balanced alcohol and acidity, its full-figured body is still juicy and bright. Cellar it for a few more years or let it breathe before serving. —V.B. abv: 15.1% Price: $32

90 McCay Cellars 2010 Contention Zinfandel (Lodi). From old head-trained vines, Con-

tention is McCay’s top-of-the-line Westside Lodi Zin, a study in tight, dusty tannins and earthy acid-ity backed by a substantial layering of baking spices. Let this wine open a while to express itself fully. —V.B. abv: 14.9% Price: $64

90 Stellina 2011 Selvaggio Old Vine Zinfandel (Lodi). Juicy in blueberry and explosive

blackberry fruit, this offers the right succulent mix of dusty spice and well-mannered fruitiness. For pairings, aim for the usual barbecue but perhaps also a risotto or finely made pizza. —V.B. abv: 14.8% Price: $32

90 Uvaggio 2012 acciaio Primitivo (Lodi). Shyly aromatic at first, this beautiful Primitivo

blended with 8% Barbera offers smooth layers of raspberry and just-ripe cherry, a seasoning of kitch-en herbs and spice sprinkled in between. Not aged in barrels, it’s all about the fruit and spice and the interplay in between, with no oak to interfere. Best Buy. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $14

89 Artezin 2012 Zinfandel (Mendocino County). Juicy and soft, this Zin is all about exuber-

ant red fruit and restrained tannins. Full-bodied it also offers elegance with complex highlights of leather, cedar and peppery spice. Enjoy with plenty of pizza and pasta on hand. —V.B. abv: 14.8% Price: $17

89 Carol Shelton 2012 Monga Zin Lopez VIne-yard Zinfandel (Cucamonga Valley). Made

from dry-farmed, low-yield vines planted in 1918 in what was a leading growing area at the time of Pro-hibition, this brings aromas of burnt orange, mint and black cherry to the nose. It’s a smooth sipper, with menthol, toasted oak and cigar smoke emerg-ing on the palate. —M.K. abv: 14.9% Price: $21

89 Easton 2012 Zinfandel (Amador County). This is an amazing price for such quality,

the wine resplendent in accessible red cherry and blackberry fruit and leathery tannins. Elegant and fairly restrained, it’s soft, structured and young,

with room to develop further. Juicy and creamy, it delivers minty spice on the finish. Editors’ Choice. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $18

88 Bianchi 2011 Zinfandel (Paso Robles). Open-ing with competing scents of menthol and

fruit preserves, this hits the palate with peppery spice, ample minerality and nicely restrained jam-miness. It’s more evidence that, even with such high alcohol levels, Zinfandel-makers are keeping an eye on balance, with enough acidity to ensure food-friendly sipping. —M.K. abv: 16% Price: $18

88 Harney Lane 2011 Lizzy James Vineyard Zin-fandel (Lodi). This is a Captain America-

sized Zin, muscular and strong in walls of huge, dusty dark fruit. Firm in tannins, juicy and swirl-ing in vanilla and cinnamon toast flavors, it spent 22 months swaddled in French oak, an imprint that lets itself be known in the wine. Lay this baby down until 2015 or so, or let it breathe before enjoying with racks of ribs. —V.B. abv: 15.9% Price: $35

88 Yorba 2008 Shake Ridge Vineyards Zinfan-del (Amador County). Softly textured, this

pretty Zin is subdued in black cherry and brambly, earthy spice with a grip of leather on the finish. From the magical Shake Ridge, farmed by Ann Krae-mer, this is her own brand, driven by a philosophy to release wines after they’ve been in bottle awhile. —V.B. abv: 14.6% Price: $28

87 Gnarly Head 2012 Old Vine Zinfandel (Lodi). For full review see page 8. Best Buy.

abv: 14% Price: $12

87 Leoness 2011 Lopez Ranch Vineyard Selec-tion Zinfandel (South Coast). Boysenberry,

cherry and a touch of minerality take over the nose on this wine from Mike Rennie and Gary Winder, who are pioneering grape growers of the Temecula Valley. Tar and tobacco pair up with bright acidity and smooth oakiness on the palate, making for easy drinking. —M.K. abv: 15.4% Price: $49

86 Brazin 2011 Old Vine Zinfandel (Lodi). Aro-matically rich in red cherry and black cur-

rant fruit, this is a lean Zin despite its 15% alcohol. Tar, cedar and chocolate dominate the palate. —V.B. abv: 15% Price: $18

86 Oso Libre 2011 Nativo Estate Primitivo (Paso Robles). Not quite as showy as its cousin

Zinfandel, this Primitivo takes more time to emerge from its shell, eventually revealing scents of white pepper and graphite. There is absolutely no show of Zin’s traditional hamminess either; instead, mouth-watering minerality and a vibrant acid structure lingers on the palate. —M.K. abv: 14.5% Price: $45

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14 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | AUGUST 2014

86 Sobon Estate 2011 Cougar Hill Zinfandel (Amador County). This soft Zin bursts with

blackberry and cherry fruit. Grippy, it’s savory in coffee and leather with a slight astringency to the finish. It tends to be among Sobon’s better bottlings every year. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $18

85 Oso Libre 2011 Osezno Zinfandel (Paso Ro-bles). Offering a more traditional California

Zinfandel style than some of the other 2011s, this takes off with scents of a warm, butter-crusted cherry pie, unfolding on the palate with cranberry jelly. There’s a slight herbal character and quite of bit of tannic grip, so expect this one to improve in the years to come. —M.K. abv: 14.8% Price: $38

84 Sobon Estate 2010 ReZerve Zinfandel (Shenandoah Valley). A Zin with notes of

cedar, leather and sour red fruit, this offers tannic grip from start to finish. Slightly savory, it shows hints of toasty vanilla on the finish. —V.B. abv: 15.1% Price: $24

83 Spenker 2011 Estate Bottled Zinfandel (Lodi). Generous in aromas of leather and

chocolate-covered fig, this wine gets mushy in the middle. Thin with an earthy edge and a finish that’s slightly herbal. —V.B. abv: 14.8% Price: $24

82 Zinfandelic 2012 Zinfandel (Lodi). A pro-nounced jolt of backyard compost jumps out

first in this wine, followed by thin layers of cran-berry, quickly wrapped up before there’s much to say about a finish. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $20

80 Moss Roxx 2011 Ancient Vine Zinfandel (Lodi). This offers allspice aromas around a

thin core of hard-to-decipher fruit and a finish that veers into burnt-rubber territory. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $25

CABERNET SAUVIGNON

90 Easton 2011 Estate Bottled Cabernet Sauvi-gnon (Shenandoah Valley). Known more for

Zinfandel and Rhône blends, Bill Easton has quietly been making Cabernet as well for many years. This vintage is earthy and leathery, reminiscent of his Syrah-based wines, yet rich in savory black cherry, cedar and black olive. Built to age, put it away un-til 2019–2024 and the savory, herbal elements are sure to develop further. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $50

90 Occasio 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon (Liver-more Valley). Juicy with ripe tannins, it

tastes lovingly hand-crafted, detailed and focused in black currant, berry and leather. Though rich and luxurious it retains ample natural acidity to buoy

its way through a meal or through several years of aging. —V.B. abv: 14.8% Price: $40

89 Cameron Hughes 2012 Collection Cabernet Sauvignon (Lake County). For full review

see page 7. Best Buy. abv: 14.1% Price: $15

89 Cinnabar 2011 Reserve Rows Amber Knolls Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon (Clear Lake).

A 100% Cabernet Sauvignon, with a mere 25 cases produced, it’s soft in minty tannins and streams of acidity. It reveals cedar and light black cherry fruit and finishes big and smoky. Age 2019–2024, the structure is definitely there. —V.B. abv: 14.1% Price: $65

89 Lucas & Lewellen 2010 Valley View Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon (Santa Barbara Coun-

ty). For full review see page 6. Cellar Selection. abv: 14% Price: $27

89 Wente 2011 Charles Wetmore Cabernet Sau-vignon (San Francisco Bay-Livermore Val-

ley). On the lighter side of Cabernet, this estate-grown Wente reserve offers delicate herbal flavors intermingled with a taste of dark cherry. With the right balance between acidity and texture it’ll hold up at the dinner table and provide ample body and finish. —V.B. abv: 13.5% Price: $30

87 Earthquake 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon (Lodi). Juicy in ripe cassis and clove, this exuberant

Cab with tamed, soft tannins explodes on impact. With a sanguine note to the background, the wine’s oak is pronounced but in check, giving a plush im-pression. —V.B. abv: 15% Price: $26

87 Edge 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon (North Coast). Made from a blend of 77% Cab-

ernet Sauvignon, 12% Merlot and 11% Syrah this herbal Cab divulges peppercorn on the nose as well as cola, leather and cedar. With structured tannins that don’t get in the way, it’s food-friendly and yet hearty, well-priced for the quality, with a finish of ripe blueberry and raspberry. —V.B. abv: 13.5% Price: $22

87 Michael David 2011 Rapture Cabernet Sau-vignon (Lodi). Rapture is Michael David’s

small-production Cabernet, blended with a small percentage of Petite Sirah, then aged 17 months in French oak for a full-bodied figure. Purple-black in color, it’s mouth-filling, jammy and extracted with flavorful blackberry and cherry fruit and a streak of vanilla and fig on the finish. —V.B. abv: 14.8% Price: $59

87 Oak Ridge 2009 Lodi Estates Cabernet Sau-vignon (Lodi). Made in an unctuous style,

it’s fragrantly rich in cinnamon and clove, and mid-weight with soft, moderate tannins. With smaller

percentages of Petite Sirah, Zinfandel and Merlot it finishes with a pronounced taste of vanilla oak. —V.B. abv: 13.8% Price: $23

87 Oso Libre 2010 Quixotic Estate Cabernet Sauvignon (Paso Robles). Stewed plum,

freshly chopped meat, oregano and fennel serve as attention-grabbing aromas on this inky wine from Paso Robles’ Westside. On the palate, the tannins are nicely even and smooth, and the herbal notes tend to overpower the tart cranberry fruit. It’s very pleasant, if not quite completely full on the midpal-ate and finish. —M.K. abv: 13.8% Price: $50

87 The Girls in the Vineyard 2011 Cabernet Sauvi-gnon (Red Hills Lake County). This balanced

Cab represents the region and the vintage well, of-fering velvety soft tannins and components of herb, cassis and raspberry in a long lingering package. —V.B. abv: 13.5% Price: $18

87 Wente 2011 The Nth Degree Cabernet Sau-vignon (Livermore Valley). Tight in elegant

raspberry and cassis fruit, this small-production Cabernet is on the cool-climate side of the equa-tion, reflective of the vintage. Tastes of black and bell peppers are interspersed with cedar, and the finish is purely oak. —V.B. abv: 14.1% Price: $80

86 Lange Twins 2010 Estate Grown Cabernet Sauvignon (Lodi). Perfumed in leathery

cinnamon-cola and cedar with gobs of tannin, it will get you through a party or midweek meals. —V.B. abv: 14.2% Price: $15

86 Peirano 2012 The Heritage Collection Caber-net Sauvignon (Lodi). Bright in acidity and

soft in texture, it offers cassis, pomegranate and tart cherry before finishing with a note of chocolate, more milk than dark. —V.B. abv: 13.8% Price: $12

86 Wente 2011 Southern Hills Cabernet Sauvi-gnon (San Francisco Bay-Livermore Valley).

Light in savory cranberry and a subdued hint of ol-ive, this medium-bodied Cabernet is soft and ready to drink now. With moderate tannins and more red fruit than black, it will pair easily with meals. —V.B. abv: 13.5% Price: $18

85 Cookies & Cream 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon (California). A tasty, satisfying everyday red

with an easy-drinking style and an affordable price. Light in texture, it’s marked by jammy aromas, berry and herb flavors, and a soft finish. Best Buy. —J.G. abv: 13.8% Price: $10

85 Parducci 2010 Small Lot Blend Cabernet Sau-vignon (Mendocino County). This Cab holds

back on its fruit, offering instead an herbal profile with hints of olive and cedar. Moderate in weight

WINEMAG.COM | 15

and texture, it’s a value-priced choice for easy-going meals and gatherings. —V.B. abv: 14% Price: $14

84 Cable Car 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon (Lodi). A soft, basic Cabernet, it offers meaty cin-

namon and berry-plum flavors. —V.B. abv: 13.5% Price: $13

84 James Mitchell 2011 Estate Grown Cabernet Sauvignon (Lodi). Mostly Cabernet Sauvi-

gnon this wine also has small percentages of Mal-bec, Petite Sirah, Tannat and Petit Verdot thrown into the mix. The result is a smoky, barrel-influ-enced concoction emphasizing burly, tannic black- currant fruit. —V.B. abv: 13.5% Price: $15

84 Las Positas 2011 Estate Bottled Cabernet Sauvignon (Livermore Valley). A soft, young

Cab swimming in bell pepper and cedar, it has leathery swirls that dance between the toasty oak. It’s a tad coarse, especially on the finish. —V.B. abv: 14.1% Price: $38

84 Oak Ridge 2012 3 Girls Cabernet Sauvignon (Lodi). Made from 89% Cab, this red also

has Petite Sirah and Zinfandel, adding to its bellow-ing toasty oak and marshmallow bigness. Rich and smoky, it’s good for a lazy-day barbecue. —V.B. abv: 13% Price: $14

84 Peltier Station 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon (Lodi). Opening with aromas of barbecued

meat, this soft Cab is all about ripe, meaty tannins and smoky oak over any suggestion of fruit, which is hidden among its cedar and tobacco-lined walls. —V.B. abv: 13.3% Price: $18

84 Wise Villa 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon (Sierra Foothills). With Cabernet Franc and Merlot

blended in, this wine is juicy in black currant and berry fruit. Moderate in tannins, it’s ready to drink now, the taste of oak and tannins accentuated on the finish. —V.B. abv: 13.8% Price: $34

82 Peltier Station 2011 hy.brid Cabernet Sauvi-gnon (Lodi). Generous in toasty oak aromas

this Cab is otherwise rich in tar and black jam, its flavors muted by the overwhelming taste of wood. —V.B. abv: 13.8% Price: $10

81 Barra 2011 Estate Grown Cabernet Sauvignon (Mendocino). Closed aromatically, this tan-

nic Cab doesn’t impart much in the way of fruit, of-fering leather and herbs instead. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $20

81 Cooper Station 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon (Lodi). Light and watery, this Cab is some-

what dull and lifeless, not showing much in the way of fruit or structure. —V.B. abv: 13.8% Price: $11

81 Herman Walters 2009 Family Vine Cabernet Sauvignon (Lodi). A thin Cabernet distin-

guished mostly by its earthy, farm-like aromas and not much else. A fairly generic red wine. —V.B. abv: 13.5% Price: $18

CABERNET FRANC

91 Easton 2011 Monarch Mine Vineyard Cabernet Franc (Sierra Foothills). From a 2,500-foot

elevation site, this Cab Franc is intriguingly pep-pery, light in oak and resplendent in raspberry li-queur aromas and a trace of pine forest. Moderate in tannins and silky in texture it’s ready to be enjoyed now with cheese and charcuterie. —V.B. abv: 13.2% Price: $24

90 En Garde 2011 Ghielmetti Vineyard Cabernet Franc (Livermore Valley). A restrained Cab-

ernet Franc, this also holds small percentages of Pe-tit Verdot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Malbec. Highly structured, it offers violets, herb and shy red cherry and raspberry fruit. Soft, it’s enjoyable now but could also be aged through 2019. Enjoy with spring lamb. —V.B. abv: 13.5% Price: $48

90 Vinum Cellars 2010 The Scrapper Cabernet Franc (El Dorado County). For full review

see page 6. abv: 14.9% Price: $30

90 Wente 2011 Small Lot Cabernet Franc (Liver-more Valley). Richly perfumed with layers

of plum and clove, this is a soft, fully developed Cab Franc. Textured and subtle in herbs, it delivers a long, peppery finish. Generous and satisfying in terms of mouthfeel, it’ll serve nicely on its own or with an herb-dusted roast chicken or Liberty duck. —V.B. abv: 14.1% Price: $40

MALBEC

88 Shannon Ridge 2010 Betsy Vineyard Malbec (High Valley). An intense, impactful Malbec

strong in tannin and power, teeth-staining and sug-gestive of a leathery saddle. Amidst the wine’s man-liness there is also ripe dark cherry, tobacco and plenty of soft vanilla. This is a big meat wine. —V.B. abv: 14.9% Price: $45

87 Cinnabar 2010 Amber Knolls Vineyard Mal-bec (Clear Lake). A big, juicy, well-heeled

Malbec, it holds dark blackberry flavor and dusty tannins. Swirling among the smoothness of the pal-ate are rugged tobacco, tropical coconut and vanilla

notes. The wine is structured and generously robust in every way. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $65

85 Hannah Nicole Vineyards 2010 Limited Re-lease Row 91 Malbec (Contra Costa County).

Juicy in red raspberry and cherry, this soft Malbec is satisfying on many fronts, with a touch of savory sourness on the finish. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $38

85 McManis 2012 Malbec (California). This standard-issue Malbec is attractively priced

and cohesively fruity without too many rough edges. The fruit tends more to red than dark with just a hint of vanilla on the finish. —V.B. abv: 13.5% Price: $11

80 Peirano 2012 The Heritage Collection Mal-bec (Lodi). This Malbec shows massive

amounts of barrel influence and a strong element of diesel fuel, which takes a while to blow off. —V.B. abv: 13.8% Price: $12

PETIT VERDOT

89 Concannon 2010 Reserve Petit Verdot (Livermore Valley). Aromatically unctu-

ous and inviting, this rich, thick Petit Verdot, one of Concannon’s smaller bottlings, is mouthfilling in chocolate, tobacco and dark plum, long-lasting through the midpalate and finish. Soft, with moder-ate tannins, it’s a big wine with structure that’ll age or pair with serious meat or game now. —V.B. abv: 15% Price: $30

88 Chateau Molyneaux 2011 Petit Verdot (Liver-more Valley). Aged in French and American

oak, it’s minty in wintergreen and cedar with soft, tight tannins layered in ripe plum fruit and choco-laty coconut. It offers plenty of texture and a long finish, the ending marked by a slight suggestion of molasses. —V.B. abv: 14.1% Price: $29

87 Michael David 2011 Inkblot Petit Verdot (Lodi). This heavy, dark purple-black wine

tastes of leathery chocolate and cherry. Quite sa-vory, it’s big and grippy, concentrated in every way. The finish is long and licorice-inspired. —V.B. abv: 14.8% Price: $35

87 Murrieta’s Well 2011 Los Tesoros Petit Verdot (Livermore Valley). Aromatically earthy like

just-rained-on mushrooms, this red offers a taste of baked fig and mocha amidst generous tannins and a long, textured finish marked by dark plum. —V.B. abv: 14.3% Price: $40

85 Jason-Stephens 2009 Estate Petit Verdot (Santa Clara Valley). Closed in aromas, this

wine has big, structured tannins and minty black fruit, and is soft in texture. Chocolate, leather and

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16 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | AUGUST 2014

tobacco are the main points, dark plum fruit the after thought. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $32

MERLOT

90 Wente 2011 The Nth Degree Merlot (Liver-more Valley). For full review see page 6.

abv: 14.2% Price: $80

88 Noble Vines 2011 181 Merlot (Lodi). For full review see page 7. Best Buy.

abv: 13.5% Price: $13

86 Heron 2012 Merlot (Mendocino County). Medium-bodied and well-priced for the

quality, this Merlot is herbal in cassis and red cher-ry flavors, on the elegant side of the spectrum, and relatively low in alcohol. The tannins are firm and mellowed, the finish just fine. —V.B. abv: 13% Price: $14

85 Mustache Vineyards 2012 Merlot (Lodi). Medium-bodied, this wine’s ripe fruit char-

acteristics offer dark plum and golden raisin flavors. It will serve most basic wine needs. —V.B. abv: 13.5% Price: $15

83 Stama 2012 Merlot (Lodi). This wine is marked by oak, baked vanilla and bacon, and

is quite thick and syrupy, offering generic tones of berry and plum. —V.B. abv: 14.9% Price: $18

AGLIANICO

86 Monte Volpe 2010 Aglianico (Mendocino County). A medium-bodied Aglianico, it’s

softly textured and light in red cherry fruit and plum flavor, with a hint of rose petals on the nose. Ready to enjoy now, the light imprint of this wine won’t get in the way of food flavors, accenting some-thing meaty or gamy that’s not overly rich or over-done in sauce. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $28

84 Amador Foothill Winery 2009 Estate Bot-tled Aglianico (Shenandoah Valley). Ama-

dor Foothill has two acres of Aglianico, an Italian clonal selection that the winery planted in 2003. There’s a sweet liqueur quality to this wine, which otherwise offers intense, dusty plum and blackberry fruit notes. —V.B. abv: 15% Price: $24

81 Montoliva 2010 Aglianico (Sierra Foothills). This wine is a bombast of sweet liqueur and

vanilla-infused candy, dusty with a sour finish. —V.B. abv: 14.4% Price: $24

SANGIOVESE

92 La Folia Winery 2011 Sangiovese (Sierra Foot-hills). Another stunning Sangiovese from La

Folia, it’s fruity and soft. A smooth, velvety juiciness lingers through the midpalate and into the finish. Balanced in richness and texture, this is a beautiful fulfillment of what many have hoped for years could be possible with the grape in California. —V.B. abv: 14.6% Price: $32

88 Estate Crush 2011 Sangiovese (Lodi). Pro-duced in microscopic quantities (50 cases),

snap up this Cal-Ital if you can, strong in red cherry fruit and integrated tannins. Soft and smooth, it’s a fine food wine with enough structure and acid-ity to hold up to creamy cheeses and red sauces, an herbal-leathery note on the finish. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $30

86 Orfila 2011 Estate Sangiovese (San Pasqual). Dusty in tannins and rustic cherry fruit,

this leathery, mocha-tinged Sangiovese has just the right seasoning of smoky spice that finishes lean. Big-shouldered at 15.6% alcohol, it’s one to enjoy slowly and with food. —V.B. abv: 15.6% Price: $30

85 Monte Volpe 2010 Sangiovese (Mendocino County). Faint in tart cherry and herbal

spiciness, this comes from a long-standing producer of Italian varieties in California. Soft, smooth and well-integrated in terms of power and tannin, it makes a great go-to pizza and pasta wine for mid-week meals. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $18

84 Macchia 2011 Amorous Sangiovese (Lodi). This Lodi Sangiovese offers smoky meat

layers and roasted plum amid a core of wild vanilla and cooked bacon. A bit confused in flavor, this one is a wine for meat lovers and those who enjoy a good cigar. —V.B. abv: 15.5% Price: $22

BARBERA

86 Easton 2011 Cooper Ranch Barbera (Shenan-doah Valley). Light in color, smooth, soft

with a trace of astringency to the background, it shows off Barbera’s marriage of acidity and dense-ness. It’s a heavier version for sure, with spice and rustic black cherry. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $25

86 Macchia 2012 Infamous Cooper Ranch Bar-bera (Amador County). Meaty and savory

with balsamic notes, it will need hearty food to tone its wildness and size. At 15.4% from a great vineyard, there’s heat on the finish, that again food might tame. —V.B. abv: 15.4% Price: $22

86 Yorba 2009 Shake Ridge Vineyards Barbera (Amador County). A full-bodied expression

of plum and cherry, it has a sanguine halo with rus-tic edges and a faint astringency to the finish. Made in a bigger style than other Barberas, the finish is lingering. —V.B. abv: 14.9% Price: $28

85 Easton 2011 Monarch Mine Vineyard Barbera (Sierra Foothills). Aromatically closed and

cloaked in smoky, heavy oak, this is a hard Barbera to approach. At first it’s very leathery, with the black cherry fruit slightly smothered. Let it air and age. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $25

TEMPRANILLO

90 Fields Family 2011 Tempranillo (Lodi). The grapes come from a vineyard thought to

be the first planted or grafted to Tempranillo in the Mokelumne River appellation. Fields picks the fruit relatively early and treats it to only neutral oak, the result a tamed, more flavorful version of the variety. Soft, leathery, spicy and subtly loaded in blackberry and black cherry fruit, it’s well worth seeking out. —V.B. abv: 14.2% Price: $22

90 Yorba 2009 Shake Ridge Vineyards Tempra-nillo (Amador County). Hearty, smoothly

textured and with a thickness to the palate, it’s deep in blackberry and leather and shows an elec-tric streak of earthiness and spice throughout. It balances lushness with structure effortlessly. —V.B. abv: 14.8% Price: $38

87 Yorba 2008 Shake Ridge Vineyards Tem-pranillo (Amador County). Aromatically

this wine offers a lot of pleasant things, from an-ise and violet to pretty dark cherry and blackberry fruit. The tannins are pronounced and leathery, the mouthfeel quite concentrated, making it a hearty wine that could take a little more time in bottle to come around. The 2009 is more accessible. —V.B. abv: 14.9% Price: $38

85 Longevity 2011 Tempranillo (Livermore Val-ley). Fragrant in herb and leather, it’s gen-

erously tannic. The 4% Petite Sirah blended in accentuates the obvious, before it develops meaty, leathery layers in between blackberry and black cherry fruit. —V.B. abv: 14.9% Price: $29

84 Cinnabar 2010 Lewis Vineyard Tempranillo (Lodi). A restrained version of Tempranillo,

it’s somewhat lacking in fruit. The wine veers more into the roasted coffee range of things, a deep, heavy roast that some may find astringent without the buoyancy of black fruit. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $38

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83 Peirano 2012 The Heritage Collection Tem-pranillo (Lodi). Smoky and toasty, it offers

dull, thin fruit flavors and an abbreviated finish. —V.B. abv: 13.8% Price: $12

RED BLENDS

92 Donkey & Goat 2012 Five Thirteen Red Wine Blend (El Dorado). Delicious in fruity per-

fume, this is a blend of 45% Grenache, 20% Syrah, 19% Mourvèdre, 10% Counoise and 6% Cinsault. Heady in rosewater, violet and wild strawberry, the wine is finely textured and meaty in body with a lengthy, herbal finish. It makes a delectable pairing with almost any meal. —V.B. abv: 14.1% Price: $35

91 La Clarine Farm 2012 Josephine + Mariposa (Sierra Foothills). The name comes from the

Josephine/Mariposa Complex soils, gravelly loam vineyard underlain with crumbly yellow slate. This is a finely tuned blend of 72% Grenache Noir and 28% Mourvèdre. The aromas are heady in rhu-barb compote and wild raspberry with a candied, perfumed character. In taste, it’s more bright red fruit with an underlayer of herb and stony mineral-ity. Medium in body, the wine delivers substantial length and depth. —V.B. abv: 14.6% Price: $26

90 Borra 2011 Heritage Field Blend Red (Lodi). There is 36% Barbera, 32% Carignane,

30% Petite Sirah and 2% Zinfandel in this field blend, a lushly juicy, gulpable wine that offers firm tannins and spicy red fruit, cinnamon and earth tones. A subtle streak of bacon peeks out midway and onto the finish. A great food wine, it will make all kinds of meats, pastas and pizzas sing. —V.B. abv: 14.2% Price: $25

90 Bridlewood 2012 Blend 175 (Central Coast). For full review see page 6. Best Buy.

abv: 13.9% Price: $15

90 Fields Family 2011 Il Ladro (Lodi). Meaning “The Thief,” Il Ladro blends 90% Sangio-

vese, 5% Cabernet Sauvignon and 5% Merlot. A silky smooth blockbuster of a wine, it dances in acidity with bright cherry, clove and spice through-out. The tannins are well-behaved and in the back-ground, the finish exceptionally long. —V.B. abv: 14.4% Price: $25

90 Terre Rouge 2011 L’Autre (Sierra Foothills). With a touch of cedar on the nose, this

blend of 65% Grenache, 20% Mourvèdre and 15% Syrah offers intense tannin and leather amid an earthy core of gamy spice. Enjoy with cassoulet, the perfect Rhône-inspired pairing. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $30

89 Borra 2011 47.5 Degree Red Wine (Lodi). This creamy and delicious blend of 80%

Petite Sirah, 10% Syrah and 10% Mourvèdre truly outperforms all its parts. It offers high tones of red fruit, earthy licorice and tamed tobacco. Medium in body with well-behaved tannins, it has a dusty fin-ish that’s very appealing. —V.B. abv: 14% Price: $35

89 Borra 2011 Fusion Red (Lodi). The best red Fusion in memory, this wine combines 60%

Syrah, 20% Petite Sirah, 17% Zinfandel and 3% Alicante Bouschet into a leathery, brambly package of big-boned intensity rich in blue and black fruit. Cherry and chocolate intermingle in pleasing ways, a hearty wine for the table, especially alongside Lib-erty duck. —V.B. abv: 14.6% Price: $19

89 Longoria 2011 Evidence (Santa Barbara County). This is a serious red wine, from its

opaque, inky color to the dark cherry, freshly turned dirt and crushed herb aromas. The extra-long finish is preceded by a smooth mouthfeel with expertly in-tegrated tannins. However, the black fruits are not quite as dazzling on the palate as the scents are on the nose. —M.K. abv: 13.5% Price: $42

89 Mendocino Vineyards 2010 Coro Mendocino (Mendocino). Comprised of 48% Zinfan-

del, 39% Syrah and 13% Petite Sirah, it’s soft in resolved tannins and balanced between juicy black fruit and earthy spice. Set this one aside until 2017–2019 and the best characteristics should only get better. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $40

89 Yorba 2008 Shake Ridge Red (Amador County). A blend of 33% Petite Sirah, 16%

Syrah, 13% Grenache, 12% Mourvèdre, 9% Gra-ciano, 8% Cabernet Franc, 5% Malbec and 4% Merlot this makes a great showcase for Shake Ridge Vineyard, where all these varieties and many more thrive. Plummy with a tight tannic taste of vanilla and cherry, the finish offers licorice and leather. —V.B. abv: 15.1% Price: $28

88 Baiocchi Wines 2010 Sprezzatura Syrah-Tempranillo (Fair Play). Black-purple in

color, this is a deeply brambly and earthy wine, a blend of 60% Syrah and 40% Tempranillo. Intense and showy, it’ll please palates that like upfront fruit and a luscious, near-lascivious mouthfeel. —V.B. abv: 16.6% Price: $39

88 Courtney Benham 2011 Vin D’Eliza Grenache-Mourvèdre (Lake County). A juicy blend of

86% Mourvèdre and 14% Grenache this is a bang-up value for subtle blueberry and crushed black-berry layers amid a sanguine, earthy core. Soft and medium-bodied, it has a distinct suggestion of lico-rice on the finish. —V.B. abv: 13.8% Price: $16

88 Fetzer 2010 Coro Mendocino (Mendocino). Comprised of 67% Zinfandel, 23% Syrah

and 10% Petite Sirah, the blend is rich but not over-done in blackberry fruit, integrated tannins and a leathery finish. There’s just the slightest implica-tion of coconut on the nose, too. —V.B. abv: 14.2% Price: $40

88 Indigené 2009 Ambiente (Central Coast). An inviting mix of floral and herbal aromas

such as violet, lavender and sage introduce this wine, which is made by Raymond Smith. On the palate, raspberry emerges alongside more savory flavors of licorice. Decent acidity holds together this blend of Sangiovese, Merlot and Malbec from the rather hot but fog-cooled Carmel Valley. —M.K. abv: 13.9% Price: $24

88 Indigené 2009 Philanthropist (Carmel Val-ley). Cherry cola and cardamom scents start

the experience with this blend. A boost of Petite Sirah contributes licorice flavor to the midpalate, and a chocolate cake with mocha frosting flavor to the finish. There’s ample grip to the strong tannins, so even though it’s already five years old, it will con-tinue to smooth through 2016. —M.K. abv: 14.2% Price: $21

88 McFadden Vineyard 2010 Coro Mendocino (Mendocino). Comprised of 57% Zinfan-

del, 31% Syrah and 12% Petite Sirah. McFadden’s Coro blend is the lightest of the 2010 bunch, floral in bright red fruit. Soft, still grippy tannins weave well into the midpalate and finish, signaling it as a match for roast chicken or barbecued pork ribs not too swaddled in sauce. —V.B. abv: 13.5% Price: $40

88 McFadden Vineyard 2009 Coro Mendocino (Mendocino). Comprised of 65% Zinfandel,

20% Syrah and 15% Petite Sirah, this is a round, juicy and bright blend made from organically grown grapes. Earthy and with a Good & Plenty-like aroma, it’s focused and medium in body. The finish pro-vides pepper and spice in equal measure. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $37

88 Parducci 2010 Coro Mendocino (Mendocino). Comprised of 55% Zinfandel, 30% Petite

Sirah, 10% Syrah and 5% Grenache. Rich in juicy cinnamon and leather, this is a well-textured wine with structured acidity that’s very drinkable. It fin-ishes with an exuberant lengthening of blackber-ries and tar. The Petite Sirah stands out most and should give the wine the chance to develop further with age. —V.B. abv: 15% Price: $40

88 Terre Rouge 2011 Tête-à-Tête (Sierra Foot-hills). This is meant to be an approachable

blend and it delivers. Made from Mourvèdre with smaller percentages of Syrah and Grenache, it’s sa-vory, medium-bodied and fresh, nicely drunk young.

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Brambly blackberry and game are most prominent on the palate. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $18

87 Brassfield 2012 Eruption (High Valley). A blend of Syrah, Mourvèdre, Malbec and

Petite Sirah from Brassfield’s Volcano Ridge Vine-yard, this intensely bold wine has an herbal streak and generous layers of blueberry and leathery, mountain-tight tannin. On the finish expect tar and espresso. —V.B. abv: 14.7% Price: $24

87 Coup de Grace 2011 Red (Lodi). Intense and smoky, this is an old-vine Zinfandel blended

with Petite Sirah, Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc. Although most of the grapes come from Lodi, small-er amounts hail from the Russian River Valley and Atlas Peak. Thick-walled and burly in licorice, earth and black and red berry fruit, it offers substantial texture and length. Not a wine for the meek. —V.B. abv: 15.5% Price: $30

87 Glennhawk 2010 Diablo Royale Red Blend (Contra Costa County). A blend of Cabernet

Sauvignon, Merlot and Syrah, this well-made wine offers aromas of campfire and cedar, plus a taste of black currant and leather. With tightly wound tan-nins, it’s rich and full, with a long-lingering finish. It will stand well against burly meat dishes. —V.B. abv: 14.2% Price: $30

87 Longoria 2011 Blues Cuvée (Santa Barbara County). There are complicated aromas and

flavors to this blend from Santa Barbara County pioneer Rick Longoria. It starts with scents of wet dog, pine, pipe tobacco and peppercorns. The fla-vors recall gamy meat, like roasted lamb, with hints of stewed plum as well. Those who don’t like con-stantly analyzing each sip may find this wine chal-lenging. —M.K. abv: 13.9% Price: $30

87 McNab Ridge 2010 Coro Mendocino (Men-docino). Comprised of 63% Zinfandel,

32% Petite Sirah and 5% Pinotage . McNab Ridge is among the few Mendocino producers to make Pi-notage, so it’s fitting that the variety finds its way into Coro, one of the smaller offerings of the vintage at 65 cases. Expect grippy tannins, plenty of black fruit and healthy doses of coffee and leather around a soft, medium body. —V.B. abv: 14.7% Price: $40

87 Ray’s Station Vineyards 2010 Coro Mendocino (Mendocino). Comprised of 59% Zinfandel,

33% Syrah and 8% Petite Sirah. Aromatically shy, this wine opens up into juicy red fruit on the pal-ate, a touch of anise swirling through. Full-bodied and boldly tannic, it imparts ripeness and chocolate with just enough earth. —V.B. abv: 14.21% Price: $40

87 Rideau 2012 Château Duplantier Cuvée (Santa Ynez Valley). For such a deep-colored

wine, it’s the lighter red fruits and minerality that comprise the aromas in this GSM with Petite Sirah. Cranberry and crushed slate rise up most promi-nently, but the blackberry dominance on the palate better corresponds to the color, and the caramelized finish is a nice touch. —M.K. abv: 15.5% Price: $48

87 Rosa d’Oro 2011 Nova Vineyard Trigrammaton (Yolo County). A blend of 40% Carmenere,

30% Petit Verdot and 30% Cabernet Franc. The Cab Franc is most present here, its herbal and bell pepper notes strong. The wine is otherwise tannic and dusty, its juiciness slow to arrive, all in all a nice, austere wine. —V.B. abv: 13.6% Price: $35

87 Yorba 2010 3rd Generation (Amador County). Yorba and 3rd Generation are the brands

made by viticulturist Ann Kraemer of Shake Ridge Ranch. This wine is meant to serve as a second la-bel, a blend of 84% Zinfandel, 10% Petite Sirah and 6% Tempranillo made by one of Ann’s nephews. It’s an impressive first attempt, robust and gamy in soft leather and ripe chewy plum. —V.B. abv: 14.3% Price: $20

86 Baiocchi Wines 2011 del Maggio Grenache-Syrah (Fair Play). Made from 80% Gr-

enache and 20% Syrah this wine opens with a rich mouthfeel and flavors of tobacco and blackberry jam, layers of smoky meat in the foreground. At 15.9% alcohol it devolves into pruny territory, a tad hot on the finish. Drink now. —V.B. abv: 15.9% Price: $24

86 Claudia Springs 2010 Coro Mendocino (Men-docino). Comprised of 41% Zinfandel, 32%

Primitivo, 10% Petite Sirah, 10% Grenache and 7% Carignane. Grenache and Carignane contribute juicy red fruit to the blend. Amidst it all are inte-grated tannins, a touch of toffee-chocolate and a big, ripe finish. —V.B. abv: 14.7% Price: $40

86 Golden 2010 Coro Mendocino (Mendocino). Comprised of 50% Zinfandel, 27% Syrah

and 23% Petite Sirah. Made from Demeter-certified biodynamic grapes, this blend opens with aromas of candied dried fruit and violets before offering a darker fruit profile and quite-present tannins. It has a harsh finish. —V.B. abv: 14.79% Price: $40

86 Philo Ridge 2010 Coro Mendocino (Mendoci-no). Comprised of 50% Zinfandel, 30%

Syrah and 20% Petite Sirah. The Coro winemakers appear to have liked these three varieties together in 2010 and it works okay here. The Syrah imparts savory leather tones to the otherwise ripe, black fruit and softened tannins. —V.B. abv: 14.97% Price: $40

86 Wente 2011 The Art of Giving (Livermore Val-ley). Made to benefit the Wente Foundation

for Arts Education, this wine is made in small quan-tities. It is juicy and leathery, soft, structured and medium-bodied with a long finish of tar and tannin. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $100

85 Brutocao 2010 Coro Mendocino (Mendoci-no). Comprised of 66% Zinfandel, 20%

Barbera and 14% Primitivo. Brutocao has gone in a different direction than most of its 2010 Coro coun-terparts. It mixes in Barbera, presumably for acidity and freshness, to the bigger boned personalities of Zin and Primitivo. In the end, the fruit and acidity are dulled by the toffee and oak and grippy, grizzled leather in this wine. —V.B. abv: 15% Price: $40

85 Di Arie 2009 Sierra Legend Estate Grown and Bottled (Shenandoah Valley). Mouthfill-

ing and slightly jammy, this blend of 35% Syrah, 25% Primitivo, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon and 20% Cabernet Franc is showing its age. Hints of smoky, savory fruit and earth just barely linger on. —V.B. abv: 14.3% Price: $35

85 Horse & Plow 2012 Farmstead Red (North Coast). This blend of 30% Carignane, 25%

Zinfandel, 25% Petite Sirah, 15% Syrah and 5% Grenache comes from old vines still lingering on two vineyards. A taste of the past, its huge, chewy tannins and tough exterior testify to time in the ground. —V.B. abv: 14% Price: $22

85 Monte Volpe 2009 Primo Rosso (Mendocino County). Teased in blackberry jam with

a sizable structure and robust tannins, the wine combines 42% Petite Sirah with smaller amounts of Syrah, Pinotage, Primitivo, Zinfandel and other varieties into a straightforward package. Best Buy. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $9

85 Pat Paulsen Vineyards 2009 Odyssey Re-serve (North Coast). Perfumed in dusty red

fruit this Rhône-style blend is chewy in tannins and otherwise solid, the alcohol noticeable on the fin-ish. —V.B. abv: 14.8% Price: $26

85 The Loyal Companion NV Red (North Coast). Rooted in dark, roasted aromas like coffee,

this blend of 60% Syrah with smaller amounts of Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec and Zinfandel has tight-grain tannins and simple layers of tobacco, leather and clove. —V.B. abv: 13.8% Price: $14

83 Monte Volpe 2010 Peppolino (Mendocino County). An imperfect combination of 35%

Negroamaro, 33% Primitivo and 33% Sangiovese, it’s structured and slightly spicy but otherwise sim-ple without much in the way of fruit. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $28

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83 Peirano 2011 The Unknown (Lodi). A co-mingling of 70% Syrah, 20% Petite Sirah,

5% Cabernet and 5% Viognier, the combination ends up being fairly generic, a muddle of black-berries and smoky oak with a substantial grip throughout. —V.B. abv: 13.8% Price: $12

82 Hannah Nicole Vineyards 2010 Mt. Diablo Red Reserve (Contra Costa County). Stewy,

chewy and quite tannic this blend splits Petite Sir-ah, Mourvèdre and Grenache into thirds. It offers little in the way of fruit; instead it’s mostly leathery earth. —V.B. abv: 14.9% Price: $38

81 Montoliva 2010 Sierra Bella (Sierra Foothills). In this blend of Sangiovese, Teroldego, Bar-

bera and Dolcetto, it’s unclear whether the wine is better than the sum of its parts or a tangle of con-fused flavors. A mouth-puckering quality overrides all; the rest of the flavors tend toward sweet vanilla. —V.B. abv: 14.1% Price: $15

OTHER RED WINES

92 Donkey & Goat 2012 The Prospector Mourvè-dre (El Dorado). With a dusty, cola-like

quality, this flirty Mourvèdre gets better and bet-ter over time in the glass, unveiling layers of floral, earthy and wild raspberry notes sprinkled with a suggestion of gamy meat. With firm, chewy tannins and a mouth-coating texture, it showcases El Do-rado’s decomposed granite soils and the prowess of the winemaker with these grapes. —V.B. abv: 14.1% Price: $30

90 McCay Cellars 2011 Carignane (Lodi). From a vineyard planted ni 1909, this is a soft,

dusty Carignane swirling in acidity, bright red fruit and spice, among McCay Cellars’ first forays into Rhône-inspired wines. Lightly textured and re-strained in alcohol, it’s wonderfully elegant. —V.B. abv: 13.5% Price: $32

89 McCay Cellars 2011 Grenache (Lodi). Smooth and soft, this is a restrained Grenache in-

tense in cranberry and Rainier cherry, easy to drink and love. Made in small quantities from a Lodi pro-ducer known for its Zinfandels, it demonstrates the potential of Grenache from the right place in the right hands. —V.B. abv: 14.1% Price: $32

89 Rosa d’Oro 2012 Nebbiolo (Yolo County). Bright in cherry and cranberry, this classi-

cally styled Nebbiolo is light red in color and buoy-ant in acidity. A sanguine back layer brings the earthier elements of the wine to life. With not much Nebbiolo to try in California, this one is worth a taste to savor the possibilities. —V.B. abv: 13.8% Price: $24

88 La Folia Winery 2012 Dolcetto (Sierra Foot-hills). Given 10 months in new French oak,

this Dolcetto is firm and lush, imparting mouthwa-tering raspberry cobbler and smoky, cinnamon-cola aromas. Featuring resolved acidity, the texture is smooth and satisfying. It finishes leathery with a taste of earth. —V.B. abv: 13.7% Price: $28

88 Murrieta’s Well 2011 Los Tesoros Touriga Nacional (Livermore Valley). Bright in acid-

ity, it’s light in texture, soft but firmly structured. Earthy and aromatic in cedar and caramel, it offers nuanced plum and strawberry, with a suggestion of your grandfather’s tobacco. —V.B. abv: 14.1% Price: $55

88 Peltier Station 2007 Reserve Teroldego (Lodi). Enticing in toasty plummy spice

and licorice, this Teroldego, maybe thanks to its bottle age, is soft and bright, showcasing the vari-ety’s earthy minerality and cherry fruit. Pair with something like braised Sonoma duck breast doused a cherry confit. —V.B. abv: 13.3% Price: $35

88 Rosa d’Oro 2012 Montepulciano (Califor-nia). Dark, rustic and plummy with layers

of earthy meat and licorice, this medium-bodied wine is sourced from Tracy Hills and Lake County. Smoothly textured it’s ready to go with cured meats and cheese. —V.B. abv: 13.5% Price: $24

88 Terre Rouge 2011 Mourvèdre (Sierra Foot-hills). Savory with a brambly character, the

wine has a meaty element throughout and is me-dium to full-bodied stylistically. The cooler vintage may have brought out more of the savory game char-acter, which will do justice to a meal that’s similarly minded. On the finish is black licorice. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $25

87 Saint Gregory 2011 Pinot Meunier (Mendocino County). Light in color and texture, this is an

interesting, grippy Pinot Meunier. The variety is a rare find in California where, as in France’s Cham-pagne, it is used as a blender in sparkling wine. On its own it is interesting, peppery and fruity. —V.B. abv: 13.5% Price: $19

87 Urban Legend 2010 Holland Landing Vineyard Teroldego (Clarksburg). There are said to be

fewer than 100 acres of Teroldego in California, so this one is worth trying. Midweight and fruity, it has lavender, anise and leather lightly folded into the mix. A good wine to start the evening and enjoy by the glass. —V.B. abv: 14.1% Price: $24

85 Concannon 2011 Reserve Grenache (Liver-more Valley). The fruit is soft and faded in

this wine, which is otherwise soft-medium in body,.

It’s made by a longstanding producer of Petite Sirah and Cabernet Sauvignon. —V.B. abv: 14.2% Price: $20

83 Putah Creek 2009 Tannat (Solano County). Incredible aromas of barbecued meat leap

out of this wine, followed by a taste of sweet rasp-berry jam. It has penetratingly thick tannins that are dusty too. There’s a pronounced amount of smoky oak going on, which might be pleasant with similar food. —V.B. abv: 14.4% Price: $30

ROSÉS

90 Carol Shelton 2013 Wild Thing Rendezvous Rosé (Mendocino). This substantial dry

rosé, mostly made from Carignane grapes, is ex-tremely rich in color. Likewise, the flavors have plenty of juicy red wine notes like cherry, raspberry and earthy spices, and it balances well between good acidity and creamy viscosity. It can almost substitute for a red wine, and will add depth to oc-casions with equally flavorful food. Best Buy. —J.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $15

86 Helwig 2013 Rosé de Shenandoah (Shenan-doah Valley). Think of a pink version of

Beaujolais Nouveau. The grapy flavors light up this light-bodied, extroverted rosé even more than the almost fluorescent pink color. Very fresh, light and frothy and all those qualities seem right for it. —J.G. abv: 14.2% Price: $18

86 Proulx 2013 Willow Creek Farm Rosé (Paso Robles). A pale pink color introduces this

wine, as do fairly weak aromas of bubble gum and freshly squeezed lime. This is one of three rosés made by Proulx, and they are all rather subtle in ex-pression, this one delivering a bit of lime and decent amount of tannic grip to the palate. It would be a great match for anything rich in texture but light in flavor, as it could be easily overwhelmed. —M.K. abv: 12.4% Price: $24

85 Proulx 2013 Mission Rosé (Paso Robles). This wine is made from California’s historic

Mission grape variety, which winemaker Kevin Riley found planted as part of a field blend in his vine-yard. The result is subtle aromas of lemon tart and night jasmine, followed by nectarine and bubble gum flavors, with a bit of tannins to hold it alto-gether. Check in on this wine in 2015 to track its evolution. —M.K. abv: 13.2% Price: $14

84 Proulx 2013 Resistance Willow Creek Farm Rosé (Paso Robles). This bottling starts

with a pretty nose of peach, melon and nectarine. It’s more about the crisp, refreshing mouthfeel than anything, and would partner well with lightly sea-soned shellfish or soft cheese. —M.K. abv: 12.9% Price: $32

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20 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | AUGUST 2014

84 Matchbook 2013 Estate Bottled Rosé of Tempranillo (Dunnigan Hills). Made from

the Spanish grape Tempranillo, this is light salmon in color, restrained in style and just slightly sweet. Fruit nuances do come out on the palate and finish, adding interest. —J.G. abv: 13.6% Price: $12

84 Sheldon 2013 Rosé of Graciano (Lodi). A dry style of rosé, it’s made from a grape vari-

ety rare in the U.S. but popular in Spain. The wine tastes like something you might sip overlooking the Mediterranean and emphasizes light cherry and raspberry flavors. It carries a hefty texture for a rosé and finishes on the lean side. —J.G. abv: 12.8% Price: $22

81 Campus Oaks 2013 Single Vineyard Reserve White Zinfandel (Lodi). A pink wine that’s

quite sweet and straightforward, in the style of the White Zinfandel that became popular in the 1980s. It shows a bit of strawberry aroma, and the flavors are sugary and slightly plummy. —J.G. abv: 11.2% Price: $7

80 CK Mondavi 2013 Willow Springs White Zin-fandel (California). A pop style of pink wine

that the Peter Mondavi family makes from Zinfan-del with minor portions of Chenin Blanc and Mus-cat. It has a light coral color, mild fruit aromas and semisweet red Popsicle flavors. —J.G. abv: 9.1% Price: $8

CHARDONNAY

93 La Follette 2011 Manchester Ridge Vineyard Chardonnay (Mendocino Ridge). For full re-

view see page 4. abv: 14.8% Price: $48

92 Thomas Fogarty 2011 Estate Damiana Vine-yard Chardonnay (Santa Cruz Mountains). A

luscious and elegant nose promises richness, and the flavors deliver even more than expected. The backbone of zingy acidity finds a perfect match with flavors of white peach, lime, and poached pear. Coming from a 35-year-old, 2,000-foot-high vine-yard at the northeast of the Santa Cruz Mountains, this memorable wine that can tackle herb-crusted pork chops as easily as salmon, shellfish or soft cheeses. Editors’ Choice. —M.K. abv: 13.4% Price: $60

91 Alder Springs Vineyard 2012 Estate Chardon-nay (Mendocino). The specs include 25%

new oak, native yeast and partial malolactic to pre-serve acidity. On the nose it’s barrel-rich, but sur-prisingly light in flavor, delivering a bright burst of citrus and green apple before deeper tones of honey and caramel settle in. It’s smoothly textured, and the acidity provides good balance to the fleshy fin-ish. —V.B. abv: 13.8% Price: $39

91 Boekenoogen 2011 Estate Chardonnay (Santa Lucia Highlands). For full review see page 5.

abv: 14.5% Price: $38

91 Center of Effort 2011 Center of Effort Estate Chardonnay (Edna Valley). For full review see

page 5. abv: 14.2% Price: $30

91 Lucas & Lewellen 2012 Estate Vineyards Char-donnay (Santa Barbara County). For full re-

view see page 5. abv: 14.5% Price: $20

90 Concannon 2012 Reserve Chardonnay (San-ta Cruz Mountains). Pretty yet substantial,

the winery has sourced good fruit and worked mag-ic in this bottling. It’s generous in toasty oak and creamy in texture. A mellow minerality unfolds on the finish. —V.B. abv: 14.7% Price: $30

90 Fossil Point 2011 Chardonnay (Edna Valley). For full review see page 7. Best Buy.

abv: 14.2% Price: $14

90 Le P’tit Paysan 2012 Jack’s Hill Chardon-nay (Monterey County). The subtle scent

of vanilla soufflé translates as a soft mouthfeel and buttered toast flavors, resulting in a wine ready for meals both casual (roast chicken and mashed pota-toes) or upscale (nut-crusted halibut atop polenta). There’s ample acidity, but it still falls in the tradi-tional California Chardonnay camp. —M.K. abv: 13% Price: $22

90 Navarro 2012 Premiere Reserve Chardonnay (Anderson Valley). A winner from a consis-

tently excellent winery. A distinctive tropical fruit aroma leads to lively apple and lemon flavors. It’s balanced, complex, and lingering on the finish. Try with soft cheeses or shellfish. —J.G. abv: 13.8% Price: $25

90 Oso Libre 2011 Vino d’Oro Chardonnay (Paso Robles). Not afraid to wear high alcohol and

toasty oak on its sleeve, it kicks off with a marsh-mallow, whipped cream and macadamia-nut nose, making it perfect for those who love the California cocktail style but are seeking nuance as well. On the palate, the wine is soft and buttery, with a long buttercream finish. Pair with oven-roasted chicken. —M.K. abv: 15.1% Price: $26

90 Thomas Fogarty 2011 Portola Springs Vine-yard Estate Chardonnay (Santa Cruz Moun-

tains). Sourced from a 35-year-old vineyard with views of the San Francisco Bay, this wine offers aro-mas of toasted oak, marshmallow, green pear and wet rock. The wood is quickly wiped out by brisk acidity on the palate, but then emerges again on the creamy finish. Given the acid levels in this cool vin-

tage, this wine will evolve through at least 2019, but it’s fine now. —M.K. abv: 12.3% Price: $60

89 Concannon 2012 Reserve Chardonnay (Liver-more Valley). A crowd-pleasing Chardonnay

aromatically suggestive of candied fruit and dried apricot, it offers a healthy dose of minerality amidst a well-composed structure. Striking the right bal-ance between fleshy and firm, it’ll go well with just about anything. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $25

88 Great American Wine Company 2012 Char-donnay (California). This new, patri-

otic Rosenblum Cellars project kicked off with a $100,000 gift to the USO. This affordable but well-manicured wine begins with aromas of caramelized lemon peel and faint peach that carry through to the palate, alongside a lingering note of toasted vanilla. Seeming to evolve steadily as it sits in the glass, it would wash down an even more affordable bucket of fried chicken. —M.K. abv: 13.9% Price: $18

88 Moniker 2012 Chardonnay (Mendocino County). This white invites you in with

floral, citrus and tame tropical aromas and flavors; otherwise it’s soft, mid weight and integrated in oak. Made from Mendocino Wine Company’s estate La Ribera vineyard, the grapes show off elevated minerality on the finish. —V.B. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA

88 Silver Spoon 2011 Chardonnay (Central Coast). On the paler side of the the Char-

donnay scale, the nose is subtle, with light touches of cream, butterscotch and smoke. There is a decent tension between ripe, lemon grass-like fruit and a bitter, grapefruit rind acidity in this wine from the team at Terravant Wine Company in Buellton. —M.K. abv: 14.5% Price: $16

88 Thomas Fogarty 2011 Langley Hill Vineyard Estate Chardonnay (Santa Cruz Mountains).

The largest Chardonnay parcel in the Thomas Fog-arty estate portfolio at slightly more than four acres, this slice still only amounts to four barrels of wine. The 2011 starts with a candied, chalky smell, remi-niscent of white Smarties, and the flavors lean to-ward cooked stone fruit, such as caramelized pluot, and charred daffodil. —M.K. abv: 13.8% Price: $60

87 Peirano 2012 The Heritage Collection Char-donnay (Lodi). For full review see page 8.

Best Buy. abv: 13.8% Price: $12

87 Red Pony Ranch 2012 Chardonnay (Santa Barbara County). Tan spice, like sandalwood,

plays a leading role, along with a touch of Meyer lemon and marshmallow. Stone fruit notes are cur-

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rently in the background, but may emerge more with time. —M.K. abv: 14.2% Price: $13

87 Thomas Fogarty 2011 Albutom Vineyard Es-tate Chardonnay (Santa Cruz Mountains).

This is the flagship Chardonnay from Thomas Fogarty Winery, a one-barrel lot that comes from a third-acre vineyard. And yet, from the winery’s excellent 2011 line-up, it brings the least to the table. A zesty, grassy lemon-lime soda nose lands on the palate with Key lime and very little compli-cation, making it pleasurable, but fairly breezy for the headiest of the Fogarty lot. Pair with halibut or seared scallops. —M.K. abv: 13.5% Price: $75

86 Baileyana 2012 Firepeak Estate Chardon-nay (Edna Valley). Coming in at the less-

oaked end of the California Chardonnay scale, this presents aromas of slate, graphite and cut grass. It delivers those same flavors to the palate as well as some green pear. It’s restrained, yet still New World. —M.K. abv: 13.5% Price: $28

86 Cookies & Cream 2012 Chardonnay (Califor-nia). This rich and buttery Chardonnay is

made in a classic California style. Its smooth texture coats the palate and helps the generous pear and pineapple flavors linger on a slightly sweet finish. Best Buy. —J.G. abv: 13.8% Price: $10

85 Bridlewood 2012 Chardonnay (Monterey County). This straightforward wine brings

vanilla, citrus and toasted wood to the forefront, with interesting whiffs of petrol as well. It’s still tightly wound for a white wine, so waiting until 2016 may reveal more magic. —M.K. abv: 13.5% Price: $15

84 Villa Oneiro 2012 Chardonnay (California). Within an immensely heavy bottle lies a

Chardonnay dark-golden in color and with barrel-fermentation written all over its body, which is hearty and nonlinear. The flavors tend toward co-conut, pineapple and dried apple, concentrated and extracted in a big California way. —V.B. abv: 14.9% Price: $37

VIOGNIER

90 Kobler 2013 Kobler Family Vineyard Viognier (Russian River Valley). Inviting in honey-

suckle and tingling acidity, this wine is crisp, me-dium-bodied and complex, tasting lighter than it is. Silky in texture, it’s one to enjoy on its own or with something buttery and creamy, like lobster or crab. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $38

88 Terre Rouge 2012 Reserve Viognier (Fiddle-town). Floral in honey and citrus, this

highly aromatic Viognier is grown in decomposed granite soils. A delightful blend of fresh, fleshy apri-cot fruit and highly attuned acidity, it’s light and refreshing, imparting stony characteristics. The re-serve is given more time in barrel than the regular bottling, though most of it not new. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $40

87 Anaba 2011 Landa Vineyard Viognier (So-noma Valley). Whole-cluster pressed and

aged in barrel and stainless steel, this is fruity in ripe apricot and pear. It’s medium-bodied, meaty but not overdone, with zingy acidity. More creamy than crisp, it lingers on the tongue and makes for a good food wine. —V.B. abv: 14.1% Price: $28

87 Terre Rouge 2012 Viognier (Fiddletown). The earlier release of Terre Rouge’s two Viog-

niers, this one, in screwcap, is clearly the friendlier and more immediately accessible. It shows a pretty, fruity personality exuberant in almond, apricot and high acidity. Crisp, like a Sauvignon Blanc, it mani-fests its granitic beginnings in tasty ways. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $20

86 Hansen Cellars 2011 Viognier (Lodi). Exhal-ing honey-vanilla in the glass, it gives off

a hint of sweetness on the quick finish. Midpalate, expect fleshy apricot and white peach flavors. Enjoy on a summer’s day with spicy peanuts. —V.B. abv: 13% Price: $15

84 Peirano 2012 The Heritage Collection Viog-nier (Lodi). Dark golden in color, this wine

offers nectarine and just-ripe apple. High in acidity, medium in body, it has a trace of sourness on the finish. —V.B. abv: 14.8% Price: $12

82 Fleur de Lys 2011 Estate Viognier (Fair Play). A combination of sweet, hot and puckering,

it has a pronounced aroma akin to applesauce. At 16.5% alcohol it may be honest but it’s also over-done. —V.B. abv: 16.5% Price: $20

GEWÜRZTRAMINER

92 Lazy Creek 2012 Gewürztraminer (Anderson Valley). This tiny-production, Alsace-style,

dry wine combines vivid, spicy flavors with a so-phisticated texture and lingering finish. The bold rose-petal and exotic fruit notes melt into a softly balanced mélange that lingers long on the finish. Delicious now through 2018. —J.G. abv: 14.5% Price: $22

91 Borra 2013 Artist Series-Limited Edition Nu-vola Gewürztraminer (Lodi). Borra demon-

strates its mastery with whites in this interesting, perfect mélange of sweetness and zip. Made in a dry style, the sweetness is mostly in the aromat-ics, which imply peach-colored roses, and inviting

mouthfeel, which imparts subtle grapefruit and stone fruit amidst all the crispness. —V.B. abv: 13.6% Price: $19

90 McFadden Vineyard 2013 Estate Grown Made With Organically Grown Grapes

Gewürztraminer (Potter Valley). Definitely dry, this wine conveys precise rose petal, lychee fruit and Gravenstein apple aromas and flavors and a lively texture. Because it’s rich in body, flavors linger on the finish. It will make a great apéritif with such ap-petizers as goat cheese toasts and roasted almonds. Editors’ Choice. —J.G. abv: 13.4% Price: $16

90 Navarro 2012 Estate Bottled Dry Gewürz-traminer (Anderson Valley). Flavorful and

sophisticated at the same time, this wine combines honey, peach, orange and clove flavors for an experi-ence that’s not blatantly fruity, and not sweet, but delightful. Try it with Thai, Chinese, roast pork or at any outdoor occasion. —J.G. abv: 13.8% Price: $20

84 Firestone 2012 Gewürztraminer (Santa Ynez Valley). Shimmeringly crystalline in the

glass, this wine looks electric. A beautiful bouquet of tuberose and honey warns that the sipping expe-rience may border on cloying. Though not a good fit for those who demand a thoroughly dry Gewürztra-miner, this isn’t a sugar bomb by any means, with flavors of honeydew melon, orange blossom and bubble gum. —M.K. abv: 13% Price: $15

SAUVIGNON BLANC

92 Bodkin 2013 Musqué Clone Sauvignon Blanc (Lake County). For full review see page 4.

Editors’ Choice. abv: 13.5% Price: $22

91 Bodkin 2013 The Victor’s Spoils Sauvignon Blanc (Lake County). For full review see page

4. Editors’ Choice. abv: 12.1% Price: $18

89 Helwig 2013 Sauvignon Blanc (Shenandoah Valley). This crisp, dry, yet full-bodied wine

exudes aromas of grapefruit, white peach and kiwi. Likewise, the flavors are fresh, tangy and fruity. The texture and body are full enough that the wine doesn’t come off as simply tart, however, and the finish turns pleasantly soft. —J.G. abv: 14.2% Price: $18

88 Heron 2012 Sauvignon Blanc (Mendocino County). Deliciously crisp, this is full of

citrus and fig, medium in body and high-strung in acidity. Dry, crisp and balanced, it’s focused and linearly conceived. An enjoyable glass from start to finish at an unbelievably fair price. —V.B. abv: 13% Price: $14

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88 Newsome-Harlow 2013 Sauvignon Blanc (Calaveras County). Clean and balanced,

this has rich, floral aromas. Flavors of fig and melon come amid a light mouthfeel and crisp, ample acid-ity. The finish is direct, buoyed by the acidity and renewed flavors of papaya and lychee. Enjoy on its own or with plenty of oysters. —V.B. abv: 13% Price: $16

88 The Girls in the Vineyard 2012 Rooster Vine-yard Sauvignon Blanc (Lake County). A taste

of candied grapefruit jumps out first from this wine, which is altogether clean and crisp. It’s also gener-ous in bigger flavors of fig and vanilla. More creamy and fruity than herbal or savory, it’s right for sea-food or spicy stuff. —V.B. abv: 14.2% Price: $17

86 Bonterra 2013 Sauvignon Blanc (Mendocino-Lake). Bonterra sources organically grown

grapes from both Mendocino and Lake counties to craft this light, slightly sour white generous in kiwi and a pronounced aroma and taste of honeydew. —V.B. abv: 13% Price: $14

83 McFadden Vineyard 2013 Estate Grown Made With Organically Grown Grapes Sauvignon

Blanc (Potter Valley). A rustic style of Sauvignon Blanc, this smells and tastes grassy and herbaceous, with modest fruit flavors and a soft texture where a more crisp one would be welcome. —J.G. abv: 13% Price: $16

83 Putah Creek 2012 Sauvignon Blanc (Califor-nia). Herbaceous aromas and flavors domi-

nate this medium-bodied wine. It shows assertive herb and savory aromas, pungent lemon and celery flavors and a very crisp, dry finish. —J.G. abv: 13% Price: $25

PINOT GRIS/GRIGIO

91 Navarro 2012 Pinot Gris (Anderson Valley). Rich but lively and dry, this wine packs a pot-

pourri of spices and citrus fruits in its aromas and flavors, carrying them through to a lingering finish. Substantial and appetizing as an apéritif and excel-lent with seafood. Editors’ Choice. —J.G. abv: 13.7% Price: $20

90 McFadden Vineyard 2013 Estate Grown Made With Organically Grown Grapes Pinot

Gris (Potter Valley). Distinctive citrus and wild sage aromas and a dazzlingly crisp balance characterize this wine. Clean, bracing fruit flavors linger on the lively finish. Grown in a small organic vineyard, this brings authenticity at a very reasonable price. Edi-tors’ Choice. —J.G. abv: 13.2% Price: $16

89 Philo Ridge 2012 Marguerite Vineyard Pinot Gris (Anderson Valley). Anderson Valley

has always been a hospitable home to Pinot Gris

and this 100% tank-fermented, no-malolactic-fer-mentation beauty is fragrant in orange blossom and honeysuckle, a tangible streak of wet stone zipping throughout. Steely, it settles into apricot and guava before ending with another bite of acidity. A perfect sipping wine, it’s also ready for oysters. —V.B. abv: 13% Price: $21

88 Philo Ridge 2012 Klindt Vineyard Pinot Gris (Anderson Valley). Philo Ridge continues its

Pinot Gris explorations here, made in a similar style to the Marguerite Vineyard version, seeing no oak. The orange blossom aromas are fuller, with a bolt of vanilla, the texture light and crisp. A tad heavier on the palate, it’ll still work with oysters, but could also do justice to heartier shellfish dripping in but-ter. —V.B. abv: 13.9% Price: $19

86 Carr 2013 Turner Vineyard Pinot Gris (Sta. Rita Hills). Leading with a slightly sour

smell of tart apple and lime rind, the aromas from this single-vineyard Pinot Gris also pick up a wet rock minerality. Upon sipping, flavors of apple pie and peach emerge on the backdrop of a light, vibrant mouthfeel thanks to the stainless-steel process-ing, making this an excellent companion for fruit-topped salads or spicy food. —M.K. abv: 14% Price: $22

86 Castle Rock 2012 Pinot Grigio (Monterey County). For full review see page 8. Best

Buy. abv: 13.5% Price: $11

86 Cookies & Cream 2012 Pinot Grigio (Califor-nia). Smooth and appealing, with ample

fresh citrus flavors and a supple mouthfeel, this isn’t so assertive that it gets in the way of the con-versation or the food. Sourcing good quality grapes from non-premier regions keeps the price down. Best Buy. —J.G. abv: 13.8% Price: $10

86 Las Positas 2012 Buttner Sunol Vineyard Pi-not Grigio (Livermore Valley). This substan-

tial wine is replete with apricot and a faint lurk-ing of herb. The acidity is there, just faintly, racing through to the finish. —V.B. abv: 14.8% Price: $28

86 Peltier Station 2012 hybrid Pinot Grigio (Lodi). This light, crisp quaff is made from

75% Pinot Grigio and 25% Vermentino, a white that’s found a happy home in Lodi. It shows green apple, apricot and fig around a core of fresh citrus, finished by a polishing of vanilla. Best Buy. —V.B. abv: 12.8% Price: $10

86 Stomping Ground 2012 Pinot Grigio (Califor-nia). Richness and fruitiness combine in

this medium-bodied, uncomplicated wine. It brings fresh citrus and pear aromas, ample apple and pear

flavors, a smooth texture and a clean finish. Best Buy. —J.G. abv: 13.8% Price: $10

84 Insomnia 2012 Pinot Grigio (California). An easygoing, casual wine with melon and

marshmallow flavors and a soft texture. It’s cleanly made, light on the palate and almost sweet going down. —J.G. abv: 13.8% Price: $11

RIESLING

91 Coquelicot 2012 Riesling (Santa Ynez Valley). “Gas station” isn’t necessarily the most at-

tractive fine-wine descriptor, but it’s both apt and complimentary for a dry Riesling. This one reeks of petrol and tar. On the palate, a warm tar presence slowly evolves toward vanilla. A vibrant, tingling acidity indicates decent cellaring potential. At the very least, this is a great wine to show your friends how petrol can be a defining and excellent character in wine. Cellar Selection. —M.K. abv: 13.4% Price: $29

91 Nacina 2012 Tondré Grapefield Riesling (Santa Lucia Highlands). Classic varietal smells of

chalk and golden raisin emerge from this wine. It’s lusciously smooth once sipped, with orange, lime-stone and vanilla pudding leaning up against bitter greens and just-ripe nectarine. Serve with beets and goat cheese or Chinese chicken salad. —M.K. abv: 11.8% Price: $20

90 Navarro 2012 Riesling (Anderson Valley). Multifaceted and sophisticated, this nearly

dry Riesling packs in crisp apple and ripe peach notes. Deft balance and a lingering finish mean there’s a lot to like. —J.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $20

88 McFadden Vineyard 2013 Estate Grown Made With Organically Grown Grapes Ries-

ling (Potter Valley). Slightly sweet, this light, smooth and juicy wine has mild aromatics of citrus fruit and floral notes, and pretty melon and pippin apple flavors. —J.G. abv: 13.9% Price: $16

88 Scratch 2012 Riesling (Arroyo Seco). An al-luring and very strong minerality overtakes

the nose on this small batch (64 cases) Riesling from, though it lacks fruit aromas for back-up. That’s okay, because pear and petrol emerge rather quickly on the palate along with a bracing acidity, which it trades for a long and silky finish. It adds up to a refreshing, easy sipper. —M.K. abv: 12.4% Price: $18

86 Firestone 2012 Riesling (Central Coast). Bright smells of freshly shredded lemon-

grass and orange blossom lift off of this Riesling that gets an aromatic boost from 11% Gewürztra-miner. On the palate, it is smooth but slightly sweet,

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with orange soda flavors and a nice herbal twist of chamomile tea. —M.K. abv: 12% Price: $15

84 Indigené 2012 I=MB2 Riesling (California). Smooth-textured, this features a sprinkling

of sugar, peachy flavors and a hint of honey. Light in body, attractively fruity and easy to sip. —J.G. abv: 12.1% Price: $13

MUSCAT

90 Navarro 2012 Estate Bottled Dry Muscat Blanc (Anderson Valley). What a mouthful

of flavor! You don’t know Muscat or Moscato un-til you’ve enjoyed this rare dry interpretation. It is aromatic and exotic, lively with fresh acidity yet full of ripe apple and peach flavors that linger on the finish. Great with salty appetizers like prosciutto or nuggets of Parmigiana. —J.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $20

90 Rosa d’Oro 2012 Slightly Sweet Muscat (Yolo County). From both Muscat Canelli (65%)

and Muscat Giallo (35%), this fragrant and invit-ing wine is exactly what it proclaims to be, slightly sweet in honeysuckle, citrus and crisp texture. It offers lightness and lingering acidity in a moderate-alcohol package. —V.B. abv: 12.5% Price: $16

89 Bodkin 2013 Sandy Bend Vineyard Muscat Canelli (Lake County). Aromatically and fla-

vorfully suggestive of peach gelato, it nails its level of sweetness, suggesting it more in the nose than on the palate. Textured lightly and crisply, it’s perfect for spicy curries, meats or charcuterie. —V.B. abv: 12.9% Price: $19

87 Rosa d’Oro 2012 Muscat (Yolo County). Fla-vorful and sweet but not cloying, it displays

plenty of floral and apricot aromas, ripe honeylike flavors and a rich finish. Will pair nicely with cheese and salted nuts as an apéritif, or with biscotti for dessert. —J.G. abv: 12.5% Price: $16

WHITE BLENDS

91 McCay Cellars 2012 Tres Blanc (Lodi). Wine-maker Michael McCay considers this white

a field blend, listing Vermentino, Verdelho, Mus-cat and an improbable dollop of Pinot Noir as the varieties. Together they equate to deliciousness, a light, stainless-fermented statement of pineapple and guava, the Vermentino’s salty head rearing just slightly. —V.B. abv: 13.2% Price: $24

90 Anaba 2011 Turbine White (Sonoma Valley). A rich, viscous combination of 55% Rous-

sanne, 35% Grenache Blanc and 10% Viognier, this offers a bite of creamy vanilla amidst layered, hearty

and concentrated flavors of lemon chiffon. Ferment-ed in oak and stainless steel, it aged for 11 months in French oak, only 28% of it new. —V.B. abv: 14.1% Price: $24

90 Borra 2013 Artist Series (Lodi). Winemaker Markus Niggli is making remarkable whites

from unusual, hard-to-find grapes, in this case a blend of 50% Kerner, 25% Riesling and 25% Bac-chus. This slight, seductive white dances in acidity that’s got an electric mouthfeel, with a bouquet of citrus and herbs that you’ll be thinking about a long time. —V.B. abv: 13.7% Price: $19

90 Borra 2012 Intuition Field Blend (Lodi). An-other of Borra’s inventive blends, this one

brings together 60% Kerner, 20% Riesling and 20% Gewürztraminer. It opens aromatically with full-blown Riesling petrol. From there, the mid-weight texture turns to floral notes, grapefruit and herbs, along with minerality. —V.B. abv: 13.3% Price: $22

90 Donkey & Goat 2012 Coupe d’Or Roussanne-Marsanne (El Dorado). Half Roussanne,

half Marsanne, both from the Fenaughty Vineyard, where Donkey & Goat also sources sublime Syrah, this white offers floral honeysuckle intensity and a viscous mouthfeel of minerality. Through its core is nuanced grapefruit and lime. —V.B. abv: 13.8% Price: $35

88 Alder Springs Vineyard 2012 Apex 39 (Men-docino). A blend of 54% Roussanne, 29%

Marsanne and 17% Viognier from the sought-after vineyard site Alder Springs, this is an estate wine made in small quantities, gorgeous in apricot and white peach aromatics. Completed by a mouth-coating texture and crisp acidity on the finish, it of-fers balance and effusive minerality. —V.B. abv: 14.3% Price: $39

87 Happy Canyon Vineyard 2012 White (Happy Canyon of Santa Barbara). This Sémillon-

Sauvignon Blanc blend hits the nose with near-petrol scents, and then slides into a slightly sour-orange zone. On the palate, that citrusy intrigue continues into a lime zest finish. It’s a vibrant, re-freshing sipper, though it leans on tingling acidity more than overall balance. —M.K. abv: 14.1% Price: $48

87 Terre Rouge 2012 Enigma (Sierra Foothills). A linear expression of lemon zest and quince,

this is a creamy-textured blend of 50% Marsanne, 29% Roussanne and 21% Viognier with a quick, crisp finish. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $25

87 Vinum Cellars 2012 White Elephant (Califor-nia). For full review see page 6. —V.B.

abv: 13.9% Price: $20

85 Peirano 2011 The Other (Lodi). The Other blends 65% Chardonnay with 25% Sauvi-

gnon Blanc and 10% Viognier. The result is a full-bodied, oak-influenced white offering fig, vanilla custard and honey amidst a sweet core that threat-ens to overwhelm. —V.B. abv: 13.8% Price: $12

82 Crushed 2011 White (California). A pleasant, tropical-flavored “house white,” it hints at

banana and pineapple flavors and is soft and easy in texture. The winery blended 52% Chardonnay grapes with the aromatic Symphony variety and a few others. —J.G. abv: 13.8% Price: $11

OTHER WHITE WINES

89 Kenneth Volk 2012 Pomar Junction Vineyard Verdelho (Paso Robles). No grape seems too

obscure for Kenneth Volk, not even the Portuguese varietal Verdelho. Only 92 acres are planted in all of California, including the ones Volk himself planted in Paso Robles in 1994. Aromas of red apple and pear slowly draw you in, not spilling all the goods on the nose. The flavors are relatively slight on the tongue, with nectarine, honeyed nuts and baked apple. The tight acidity makes it a great pairing for Thai and Vietnamese dishes. —M.K. abv: 14.6% Price: $24

89 Sheldon 2013 Grenache Blanc (Sonoma Coast). Made from 100% Grenache Blanc

grapes grown at the Sperring Vineyard, this is Shel-don’s first vintage of the variety. Having only seen neutral oak and been stainless-steel fermented, the result is a light, floral quaff of crisp-yet-rich peach and citrus fruit, lemony and smooth, with a sugges-tion of ginger snaps. —V.B. abv: 12.8% Price: $28

88 Tablas Creek 2013 Estate Vermentino (Paso Robles). The first sniffs of this Vermen-

tino—which Tablas Creek’s French vineyard con-sultant suggested planting because of Paso Robles’ rocky limestone soils—recall a hot day at the beach, with ocean spray salinity and hot sand aromas. Once sipped, the beach turns to a refreshing, wa-tered-down orange juice experience, with a hint of lemon-lime on the finish. Pair with any fresh fish. —M.K. abv: 12.7% Price: $27

88 Terre Rouge 2012 Grenache Blanc (Sierra Foothills). Zesty in citrus and waxy green

apple, it offers texture and minerality with a long-lingering finish. Swirling in the background are sug-gestions of fig and vanilla. This will sing with salads and seafoods. —V.B. abv: 14% Price: $22

87 Kenneth Volk 2012 Riverbench Vineyard Al-bariño (Santa Maria Valley). Kenneth Volk is

the Central Coast master of nontraditional Califor-

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nia varieties. His take on Albariño delivers peach, citrus and mineral aromas, reflective of the historic Riverbench Vineyard. The taste comes on a tad juicy, then wipes away quickly, with apple tartness on the finish. —M.K. abv: 13.8% Price: $24

87 Kenneth Volk 2012 San Bernabe Vineyard Malvasia Bianca (Monterey County). Experi-

menter-in-chief Kenneth Volk tackles this Mediter-ranean grape of ancient origins. Stone fruit domi-nates the nose, suggesting peach pie, peach jam, even peach pudding, with some sweet Stargazer lily floral notes as well. The peach transforms to melon, apple and caramel on the palate. —M.K. abv: 14.2% Price: $24

87 Terre Rouge 2011 Reserve Roussanne (Sierra Foothills). Savory and herbal, this Rous-

sanne is given more time on lees and made to be rich and complex. It accomplishes those goals, provid-ing medium body and high acidity, a texture that is dry, and wild in honey and dried apricot. Pair with lobster. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $40

86 La Marea 2013 Kristy Vineyard Albariño (Monterey County). Aromas of ripe ruby-

red grapefruit mix with scents of wet sand in this stainless-steel and cold-fermented white. It deliv-ers plush melon, citrus and a bit of bubble gum on the palate before ceding to powerful acidity. There is perhaps something disjointed in the ripe fruit flavors meeting up with bracing acidity, but it’s a memorable sipper nonetheless. —M.K. abv: 13% Price: $24

85 Maisonry 2012 Stagecoach Vineyard Mar-sanne (Napa Valley). Aromatic in caramel

and oak, it’s also ripe and lemony with traces of tropical fruit and vanilla. A bit on the heavy side, it aged for 20 months in seasoned Burgundian oak. —V.B. abv: 14.7% Price: $38

85 Terre Rouge 2012 Monarch Mine Vineyard Roussanne (Sierra Foothills). Rich in honey

and lemon, this wine’s otherwise pleasant texture and balanced acidity is marred slightly by a whiff of petrol that might mellow with age. Bottle aged for two years after barrel fermentation, give it time and air. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $25

SPARKLING WINES

90 Donkey & Goat 2013 Lily’s Cuvée Chardon-nay (Anderson Valley). A whisper of a wine

made from Chardonnay grapes as a pétillant na-turel, or pet-nat, this third vintage of Lily’s Cuvée should prove as enormously popular as the prior two, dry, delicious and unbearably light. No sugar or yeast are added and the grapes are whole-cluster

pressed. There’s no better wine for midday picnics or hikes in the woods. —V.B. abv: 11.2% Price: $30

86 Peltier Station 2012 The Gala (Lodi). A Blanc de Noir made in a traditional method

from half Chardonnay and half Pinot Noir grapes, this is peach colored, dry and frothy in sandalwood and savory raspberry fruit. —V.B. abv: 12.5% Price: $33

85 Sorelle Winery 2013 Frizzante Muscat (Lodi). Frothy (beware the cork upon opening), this

sparkling Muscat is sweet in jasmine and vanilla that finishes clean and quick. —V.B. abv: 11.5% Price: $18

84 Allure NV Bubbly Moscato (California). Fans of Moscato will like this bubbly, semidry

version. With a syrupy profile and aromas of artifi-cial vanilla, it offers plenty of juicy fruit. —V.B. abv: 10% Price: $13

SWEET WINES

90 Uvaggio 2013 dolce Moscato (Lodi). Made from Moscato Giallo grapes harvested late

though still at low Brix, this is meant to serve as a dessert wine as it is slightly sweet, with 78 g/L of residual sugar. The aromas are pure and fully expressive of jasmine in bloom followed by apricot and honey. Light in alcohol, it shows a slight sweet-ness in the midpalate. Otherwise, it finishes dry, making it serviceable as an apéritif or midday-in-the-garden wine. Best Buy. —V.B. abv: 7.3% Price: $14

88 Wente 2012 Small Lot Orange Muscat (Liver-more Valley). This wine could be served as

an apéritif, digestif or dessert, alongside a bowl of vanilla ice cream and fresh strawberries and peach-es. Wildly fragrant aromas of orange blossom and ripe peach make it just the right match. It’s gor-geous, light and semidry, with acidity that lingers through the midpalate. —V.B. abv: 9.4% Price: $25/375 ml

FORTIFIED WINES

94 Charbay 2006 Distillers’ Port (Napa Val-ley). Aged seven years in French oak, this is

made from Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon grapes and then fortified with six-year-old, barrel- aged Cabernet Franc brandy. Very little is made. The experience is stellar, the dark-brown-red-hued wine opulent in red candy apple, chocolate and raspberries with ample acidity and a nuttiness to the finish. The pairing suggestion of a cigar is ex-actly right, though the wine will dance with nuts and cheeses or a decadent cheesecake too. —V.B. abv: 20.9% Price: $75/375 ml

93 Charbay 2006 Still House Port (Napa Val-ley). Made from Cabernet Sauvignon, Zin-

fandel and Syrah wine that’s been aged seven years in French oak and fortified with four-year-old Charbay Syrah brandy, this vintage selection is aro-matically stunning in chocolate, tobacco and dried ginger candy notes. Balanced and rich, it finishes semidry, with a viscous taste of almonds and dried cranberries, both of which would make a good pair-ing, atop a selection of gooey cheeses. —V.B. abv: 20.9% Price: $50/375 ml

85 Sorelle Winery 2012 Late-Harvest Piccolo Primitivo (Lodi). It’s hard to break through

this syrupy late-harvest wine’s heavy hand. Intense, tannic and full-bodied, it’s made in a semidry style. —V.B. abv: 17.5% Price: $NA/375 ml

OREGONCHARDONNAY

94 Sokol Blosser 2012 Chardonnay (Dundee Hills). Whole cluster-pressed, then settled

and racked to barrels, this is a garden of sensual de-lights. Apple, marzipan, buttered nuts, a full range of citrus and tree fruits, caramel, honey... it just keeps on going. The seamless, seemingly endless finish brings in a finishing swish of buttery toast. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $38

94 The Eyrie Vineyards 2011 Original Vines Reserve Chardonnay (Dundee Hills). Ex-

ceptionally fragrant, it sends up scents of white peaches and hazelnuts. Savory highlights adorn the crisp, detailed fruit flavors of peach, pear and yel-low apples. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 12.5% Price: $45

93 The Eyrie Vineyards 2012 Estate Chardonnay (Dundee Hills). Savory and deep, it carries

lovely details of earth and herb, balanced against flavors of lightly spiced apples. As with all the Ey-rie wines from this outstanding vintage, it’s unique, compelling and utterly original. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 12.5% Price: $27

91 Chehalem 2011 Stoller Vineyards Ian’s Reserve Chardonnay (Dundee Hills). A light, cool vin-

tage yields a fine and refined effort, offering a pretty mix of citrus, apple and melon fruit. It’s under-scored with balanced, lemony acids and a touch of minerality. —P.G. abv: 12.7% Price: $40

90 David Hill 2011 Estate Reserve Chardonnay (Willamette Valley). There is an interest-

ing floral component—white blossoms—coming through in the nose, and sailing along on top of fla-vors of buttered nuts. A somewhat oily mouthfeel is lifted by moderate acids, and the overall length and

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follow-through make this one of the better vintag-es of this affordably priced wine. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 12.9% Price: $20

90 Eola Hills 2012 Chardonnay (Oregon). This is solidly made, with forward and ripe fruit

flavors of peach, pear and apple. A gentle touch with spices—cinnamon and baking spices—adds extra interest to the wine as it plays across the palate. Best Buy. —P.G. abv: 13.4% Price: $13

88 Boedecker Cellars 2012 Chardonnay (Wil-lamette Valley). A light floral nose carries

inviting scents of honeysuckle and clover, with just a hint of cut grass. The fruit is clean and apple-flavored, and carries a touch of cinnamon, perhaps from the neutral barrel fermentation. —P.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $25

88 Left Coast Cellars 2012 Truffle Hill Chardon-nay (Willamette Valley). Half of this wine

was barrel fermented in mostly new French oak; the other half done in stainless. Peaches and butter are the main flavors, with a soft, pretty finish that brings a streak of caramel. —P.G. abv: 13% Price: $24

87 Rex Hill 2012 Seven Soils Chardonnay (Wil-lamette Valley). Seven Soils comes from six

vineyards, spent 14 months in 28% new oak, and still seems a bit of a puzzle. It’s a rather pale, mod-estly ripened wine, from a vintage that produced more than its share of blockbusters. It’s perfectly fine, just not particularly memorable. —P.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $33

87 Walnut City WineWorks 2012 Chardonnay (Willamette Valley). Light fruit flavors of

apple and pear have been softened a bit with aging on the lees in neutral oak. This is a pleasant, simple, quaffable wine for every day enjoyment. —P.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $20

86 Kramer 2012 Estate Chardonnay (Yamhill-Carlton District). Made from estate-grown

Dijon clones, this saw a touch of new oak. It’s fruity and forward, as befits the ripe vintage, but stops short in the finish. There’s also a light streak of va-nilla and a suggestion of ginger. —P.G. abv: 13.2% Price: $20

85 Carabella 2011 Dijon 76 Estate Chardonnay (Chehalem Mountains). Quite light, in both

mouthfeel and flavor, this has simple, rather generic fruit and a bit of butter. —P.G. abv: 13% Price: $27

85 Cottonwood Winery of Oregon 2012 Estate Chardonnay (Willamette Valley). Fruity and

round, with apple and banana flavors, this simple, easy-drinking wine enters and leaves softly all the way. —P.G. abv: 12.8% Price: $15

84 Yamhill Valley 2012 Chardonnay (McMin-nville). This has a soapy mouthfeel, often an

indicator for a high pH wine. The apple and pear fruit flavors are mild but thin. —P.G. abv: 13.6% Price: $25

PINOT BLANC

91 Ken Wright 2012 Pinot Blanc (Willamette Val-ley). Pinot Blanc in a warm year such as 2012

veers closer to the fruitiness of Pinot Gris, as shown here. Barrel fermented in French oak, it remains sleek and crisply defined, with pure fruit flavors of golden apple and ripe pear. —P.G. abv: 13% Price: $24

91 The Eyrie Vineyards 2012 Pinot Blanc (Dundee Hills). Crisp and distinctive, with a strong

mineral streak, this full-flavored Pinot Blanc has a range of fruit flavors, centered upon apple and pear, but also touching on blood orange and a suggestion of celery as well. Low in alcohol, but high in flavor. —P.G. abv: 12.5% Price: $19

88 Winter’s Hill 2013 Pinot Blanc (Dundee Hills). Tart, penetrating scents and flavors

emphasize grapefruit and lemon/lime, with the ex-tra bite of phenolics, perhaps from some skin con-tact ahead of pressing. It’s a balanced and bright effort, clean, young and fresh. —P.G. abv: 13% Price: $17

87 Spindrift Cellars 2013 Pinot Blanc (Willa-mette Valley). This is clean and crisp, with

light flavors of cucumber, jicama and green pine-apple. About 30% was barrel fermented, which rounds it out a bit. —P.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $16

85 Yamhill Valley 2012 Pinot Blanc (McMin-nville). Crunchy and somewhat bitter, this

has tight citrus rind flavors and a whiff of vanilla. A small percentage of the blend spent a bit of time in neutral oak. —P.G. abv: 13.4% Price: $25

PINOT GRIS

94 The Eyrie Vineyards 2012 Original Vines Pinot Gris (Dundee Hills). These “Original

Vines” are in fact the oldest Pinot Gris vines in the country. They deliver exquisite details of earth and stone around a solid core of apple and Asian pear. It’s bone dry, with exceptional depth. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 13% Price: $33

93 King Estate 2012 Pfeiffer Vineyards Pinot Gris (Willamette Valley). Floral scents greet

you at first, a beguiling mix of clover and apple blos-som. Pineapple, tangerine and nectarine fruit fla-

vors follow, big and full, finishing with an interest-ing whiff of almond. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 13% Price: $22

93 Sokol Blosser 2012 Pinot Gris (Willamette Valley). This is a powerful wine, with in-

tense scents of pineapple leading a lively interplay of citrus, stone, Asian pear and spices. Thrilling texture, balance and length make this a standout, even in this outstanding vintage for all Pinot Gris. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 14.5% Price: $19

92 King Estate 2012 Backbone Pinot Gris (Or-egon). Succulent and leesy, it blends juice

from five different sites, including the King Estate vineyard. Soaked in minerals and alive with pretty fruit flavors of citrus, pink grapefruit and Key lime, this reserve-level bottling is one of several limited offerings by the leader in Oregon Pinot Gris. Edi-tors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $24

92 King Estate 2012 Three Bees Pinot Gris (Ore-gon). This is a block selection from the prin-

cipal estate vineyard. At first flavors of soda cracker, with a saline edge, fill the palate. Then apple, pear and melon fruit come in, with excellent concentra-tion and refreshing acidity. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $24

92 The Eyrie Vineyards 2012 Pinot Gris (Dundee Hills). Along with a gorgeous blend of ripe

fruits—apple, pear, and a bit of tangy pineapple—this wine carries a streak of wet stone into a full-bodied, lingering finish. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 12.5% Price: $17

91 Coelho 2013 Renovação Estate Pinot Gris (Wil-lamette Valley). Rich and ripe, with some

Chardonnay-like power, it’s a lush mix of tropical fruit flavors—guava and banana and more. A lovely vein of caramel runs across the palate, and makes this simply irresistible. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 13% Price: $20

91 King Estate 2011 Limited Edition Blend Pinot Gris (Oregon). Part of King Estate’s ambitious

Limited Edition program for Pinot Gris, this is pack-aged in a hock bottle with a label styled for a Euro-pean look. Slightly off dry, with residual sugar just below one percent, it’s lovely with honey, tea, lemon cake and ripe, semitropical fruit flavors. Great focus and balance are in play, with perfect acidity. Edi-tors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 13% Price: $22

91 Ponzi 2013 Pinot Gris (Willamette Valley). For full review see page 5. Editors’ Choice.

abv: 12.8% Price: $17

90 Lumos 2013 Temperance Hill Vineyard Ju-lia Pinot Gris (Willamette Valley). Already

showing good focus and pinpoint acidity, th is wine brings green berries, kiwi and lime fruit flavors to the front. The bracing acidity keeps it lively across

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the palate, and the extra depth of the finish rewards your attention. —P.G. abv: 12.3% Price: $20

90 Portlandia 2013 Pinot Gris (Willamette Val-ley). This wine has a crisp, breezy bouquet

of salad greens, melon and pear. Fresh and textural, it’s balanced with a lick of wet stone to wrap up. —P.G. abv: 12.7% Price: $20

89 Spindrift Cellars 2013 Pinot Gris (Willamette Valley). A pleasing mix of grapefruit, green

apple and melon fruit flavors highlights this fresh and appealing wine. Crisp acidity buoys up the fruit and ensures a clean exit. —P.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $16

88 Eola Hills 2013 Pinot Gris (Oregon). This fresh young wine brings lively, tart fruit fla-

vors of pineapple and grapefruit, with a crisp, wet stone finish. A lick of lime keeps you coming back for more. Best Buy. —P.G. abv: 12.5% Price: $13

88 Left Coast Cellars 2012 Orchards Reserve Pi-not Gris (Willamette Valley). This very lim-

ited production reserve was fermented and aged sur lie in a concrete egg. Egg-zactly what that did for the flavor remains a mystery. It conveys crisp flavors of green berry, green apple and pear. —P.G. abv: 14.3% Price: $35

88 Lumos 2013 Logsdon Ridge Vineyard Ru-dolfo Pinot Gris (Willamette Valley). This

single-vineyard Pinot Gris is smooth as silk, loaded with fresh, well-defined flavors of melon. A touch of spring herb is delicately applied. Not a big, fruity wine, but delicious in a rather quiet way. —P.G. abv: 13.7% Price: $18

88 Seven Hills 2012 Pinot Gris (Oregon). Blend-ed from Umpqua Valley and Eola Hills

grapes, this is forward and fruit-driven, with a pleasant mix of apple and pear. Along with the fruit comes a base of minerality and an unusual streak of spearmint. —P.G. abv: 13.8% Price: $17

87 A to Z 2013 Pinot Gris (Oregon). This soft and fruity wine offers pleasant flavors of apple

and melon. It’s smooth and approachable, lightly buttery, and ready to go. —P.G. abv: 13% Price: $13

87 Hawkins Cellars 2013 Pinot Gris (Willamette Valley). Young and fresh, it has excellent

minerality. The fruit is light and lively, leaning to-ward grapefruit, green apple and a smidge of just-ripe melon. It’s a lovely summer sipper, with a few good years of life ahead. —P.G. abv: 13% Price: $16

86 Left Coast Cellars 2013 The Orchards Pinot Gris (Willamette Valley). This is a pleasant

wine, with grapefruit and nectarine fruit, fresh but just a little flat through the midpalate. A good sip-ping wine, it’s best served chilled and enjoyed while young. —P.G. abv: 13.8% Price: $18

86 Walnut City WineWorks 2013 Pinot Gris (Wil-lamette Valley). Stainless steel-ferment-

ed and kept on the lees for two months, this new vintage still feels a bit dilute—a function of the low brix and difficult vintage. Pungent with scents and flavors of rosemary and citrus, it is best drunk chilled and young. —P.G. abv: 12.3% Price: $15

86 Yamhill Valley 2012 Pinot Gris (McMin-nville). A sharp entry brings a clear-cut

diesel component into focus. The golden apple fruit is penetrating and ripe, with some bitterness in the follow-through. —P.G. abv: 14.3% Price: $15

83 Redgate 2013 Estate Grown Pinot Gris (Wil-lamette Valley). This sour, beery wine is for

those who like a high acid flush with their meal. The very tart flavors focus on lemon and green apple. —P.G. abv: 12.5% Price: $15

RIESLING

90 A to Z 2013 Riesling (Oregon). For full re-view see page 6. Best Buy.

abv: 13% Price: $15

89 Willamette Valley Vineyards 2013 Riesling (Willamette Valley). This attractive, medi-

um-sweet Riesling keeps the alcohol low. Generous apple and apricot fruit flavors make it a fine warm-weather sipper. Start out any picnic with a chilled bottle of this bright and vividly fruity wine, and you’re on the right track. Best Buy. —P.G. abv: 8% Price: $14

84 Rascal 2013 Riesling (Willamette Valley). Really? A five-buck Oregon Riesling? It’s

light, lemony and tart, but it’s real wine, simple and plain, yet fine with shellfish or other light seafood. Best Buy. —P.G. abv: 9.6% Price: $5

81 Schmidt 2012 Schmidt Family Vineyards Es-tate Riesling (Southern Oregon). The aromas

are light and elusive with notes of mineral and pear. It drinks dry with a wash of alcoholic bitterness that runs throughout. —S.S. abv: 15.25% Price: $22

OTHER WHITE WINES

89 David Hill 2012 Estate Gewürztraminer (Wil-lamette Valley). Smoke and spice come

through in this sensuous wine with pretty accents

and flavors of rose petals, peaches and apricots. The mouthfeel is soft, even silky, and the length impres-sive. —P.G. abv: 12.7% Price: $18

88 Lumos 2013 Temperance Hill Vineyard Gewürztraminer (Eola-Amity Hills). Very

little of this dry, lightly fruity wine is produced. It’s fruit more than flower that you’ll taste here—mel-on, peach, and a suggestion of guava. It’s fresh and ready to drink right now. —P.G. abv: 12.3% Price: $19

87 Left Coast Cellars 2013 White Pinot Noir (Wil-lamette Valley). There’s been a huge jump

in production of this wine since the past vintage, which may signal some surge of interest in white Pinot, which has lately become a bit of a trend in Oregon. The wine is simple, neutral and perfectly quaffable, but carries no hint of varietal character. —P.G. abv: 13.4% Price: $20

86 Cottonwood Winery of Oregon 2012 Estate Müller-Thurgau (Willamette Valley). This

often-overlooked grape brings big, blocky, fruit-powered flavors of lemon and pear. It falls on the sour side of acid, with just a hint of vanilla. —P.G. abv: 12.7% Price: $15

85 Girardet 2013 Estate Grown Seyval Blanc (Umpqua Valley). An aromatically unique

wine with notes of lees and citrus. It drinks close to dry and is on the lighter side of medium bodied with a green apple skin finish. —S.S. abv: 12% Price: $28

ROSÉS

90 Ponzi 2013 Pinot Noir Rosé (Willamette Val-ley). Jaw-droppingly delicious, this will

surely convince you that Pinot Noir is the absolute best rosé grape in Oregon. From the floral/straw-berry bouquet bursting out of the bottle, right on through the delightfully sippable, mouthfilling fruit, it’s a joy. —P.G. abv: 13.2% Price: $20

88 Spindrift Cellars 2013 Pinot Gris & Pinot Noir Rosé (Willamette Valley). This interesting

rosé mixes 78% Pinot Noir with 22% Pinot Gris. It’s a pale copper with a hint of rose, and the nose carries suggestions of rose petals as well as straw-berries. It’s tart and medium-bodied, with some cit-rus snap to the acids. —P.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $16

86 Lumos 2013 Chiquita Rosé of Pinot Noir (Wil-lamette Valley). A delicate salmon pink,

this offers light scents and flavors of rose water and strawberries. There’s plenty of juicy acidity, and the low alcohol makes it great for sipping chilled in hot weather. —P.G. abv: 12.5% Price: $22

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86 Walnut City WineWorks 2013 Rosé of Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley). Pretty and scented

with watermelon and strawberry, this rosé turns tart in the mouth, tasting of rhubarb and sour ber-ry. It’s fresh and refreshing, especially drunk cold in hot weather with a picnic spread. —P.G. abv: 12.4% Price: $16

85 Left Coast Cellars 2013 Rosé of Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley). As light as a feather,

this delicate rosé carries suggestions of watermelon and rhubarb, with a whiff of onion. 20% was aged briefly in neutral French oak. —P.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $18

85 Winter’s Hill 2013 Dry Rosé (Dundee Hills). Made entirely from Pinot Noir, this is a

light, thin rosé with simple flavors of watermelon and strawberry. —P.G. abv: 13% Price: $19

PINOT NOIR

97 Ken Wright 2012 Abbott Claim Vineyard Pinot Noir (Yamhill-Carlton District). From first

sniff this exquisite wine grabs you and won’t let go. Brambly berries, redolent with rich umami notes of spice and pine needle cascade into a wine densely packed with fruit and herbs. It lingers, opens and becomes more and more expressive, with soil-gen-erated flavors of forest floor. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 14% Price: $65

96 Ken Wright 2012 Freedom Hill Vineyard Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley). For full review see

page 3. Editors’ Choice. abv: 14% Price: $65

95 Domaine Drouhin Oregon 2010 Laurène Pinot Noir (Dundee Hills). This reserve-level Pinot

from DDO is exceptional in every way. Silky, elegant and deeply-fruited, it marries a plush midpalate of red berries and cherries to compelling grace notes of pine needle, cola and mocha. Delicious and agewor-thy; if past vintages are any indication, this can go until 2029. Cellar Selection. —P.G. abv: 13.9% Price: $65

95 Ken Wright 2012 Tanager Vineyard Pinot Noir (Yamhill-Carlton District). The Tanager

ranks among the top three wines from Ken Wright in a superb lineup. A rich mix of Asian spices coat a sensuous wine with a rich core of ripe black cherry fruit. Seams of cola and sassafras run through the palate, and on into a lengthy and utterly delicious finish. Cellar this if you can keep your hands off it! Cellar Selection. —P.G. abv: 14% Price: $65

94 Ken Wright 2012 Canary Hill Vineyard Pinot Noir (Eola-Amity Hills). The 30-year-old

vines at Canary Hill seem to have ripened well at lower brix, yielding a full-flavored, forward wine with lovely plum and cherry fruit. There also are

pleasing details of leaf and cured meat, in a wine that keeps on giving the more you look. —P.G. abv: 12.5% Price: $65

94 Ken Wright 2012 Carter Vineyard Pinot Noir (Eola-Amity Hills). A spine of steel runs

through the core of this wine, supporting spicy fruit flavors of cranberry, pomegranate and raspberry. Details of black tea contribute to the length, while the balanced tannins and underlying minerality give it still more structural support. Cellar Selec-tion. —P.G. abv: 13% Price: $65

94 Ken Wright 2012 Shea Vineyard Pinot Noir (Yamhill-Carlton District). Many wineries

source fruit from this exceptional vineyard, but few make a better wine than this. Fragrant, elegant and smooth, it’s tight and detailed, with a toasty edge to pretty cherry fruit. It flows gracefully into a finish laden with milk chocolate highlights and a streak of cola. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 14% Price: $65

94 Owen Roe 2012 Merriman Vineyard Pinot Noir (Yamhill-Carlton District). For full re-

view see page 3. Editors’ Choice. abv: 14.1% Price: $55

94 Sokol Blosser 2010 Goosepen Block Pinot Noir (Dundee Hills). This single block selec-

tion is a truly pretty wine, with scents and flavors of rose petals, raspberries, brown spices, nutmeg and mocha. It’s complex and elegant, with a mouth-pleasing creaminess. —P.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $80

93 Ken Wright 2012 Bryce Vineyard Pinot Noir (Ribbon Ridge). The natural high acidity and

underlying minerality of the Ribbon Ridge AVA are in evidence here. The primary fruit flavors are clear and juicy—raspberry and tart cherry. The wine feels chiseled and deep, with excellent aging potential. Cellar Selection. —P.G. abv: 14% Price: $65

93 Ken Wright 2012 Guadalupe Vineyard Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley). Quite tart, with

lemony acids, the Guadalupe is built upon a min-eral base of wet stone and chalk. There’s a streak of earthy umami, dried leaf and green olive, yet the orchestration of these elements is superb, resulting in a distinctive wine focused on details of earth and soil. —P.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $65

93 Ken Wright 2012 Nysa Vineyard Pinot Noir (Dundee Hills). This Dundee Hills site

captures the sweet, rich black cherry fruit flavors typical of the AVA, here highlighted with accents of fresh tarragon. It’s young, bright and focused, with a lingering finish that adds a pleasing pat of butter and a hint of vanilla. —P.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $65

93 Scott Paul 2011 Audrey Pinot Noir (Dundee Hills). Essentially Scott Paul’s reserve, this

is sourced entirely from biodynamically-farmed, 40-year-old vines at the Maresh vineyard. The Au-drey layers cherry fruit with streaks of mineral, and carries plenty of underlying acidity. The wine man-ages to feel full-bodied without losing a sense of el-egant proportion. —P.G. abv: 12.9% Price: $75

92 Elizabeth Chambers 2011 Winemaker’s Cuvée Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley). For full re-

view see page 4. Editors’ Choice. abv: 13.3% Price: $32

92 Kelley Fox 2011 Maresh Vineyard Pinot Noir (Dundee Hills). This old-vine (planted 1972)

Pinot offers delicate, yet complex details through-out the palate. It’s elegant winemaking at its best—a pinpoint mix of herb, stone, berry and barrel—seamless and precise. Despite (or perhaps because of?) the low alcohol, this has the potential to age; try after 2018. Cellar Selection. —P.G. abv: 12.5% Price: $60

92 Ken Wright 2012 Bonnie Jean Vineyard Pinot Noir (Yamhill-Carlton District). Succulent

scents and flavors of cherry liqueur, laced with marzipan and a whiff of earthy funk define this new single-vineyard selection. Tannins are thick and of-fer suggestions of tanned leather. —P.G. abv: 14% Price: $65

92 Ken Wright 2012 McCrone Vineyard Pinot Noir (Yamhill-Carlton District). Firmly tan-

nic, with a peppery flavor, this accents its tart berry fruit with flavors of brown spices and hints of dried leaves. Its power lies in the interplay of such details, as well as the overall balance and precision of the winemaking. —P.G. abv: 13.7% Price: $65

92 Ken Wright 2012 Savoya Vineyard Pinot Noir (Yamhill-Carlton District). Pomegranate and

raspberry fruit are highlighted with sharp scents of orange flesh and peel. The buoyant acidity and overall tightness suggest that this will continue to evolve and improve over the next several years. It’s lightly spiced with a well-managed touch of new oak. —P.G. abv: 13% Price: $65

92 Owen Roe 2012 Anna’s Vineyard Pinot Noir (Chehalem Mountains). Pleasing aromatics

send up a mix of cherry, black tea and clean earth. The wine is tannic and substantial, with ripe black cherry fruit and a streak of caramel. —P.G. abv: 14.1% Price: $42

92 Owen Roe 2012 The Kilmore Pinot Noir (Yam-hill-Carlton District). Young and tight, this

new release shows excellent aging potential. The fruit is compact and complex, a lush mix of pome-granate, raspberry and cherry, spiced gracefully with sweet baking spices. There is a delicate herbal

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note as well, and the overall balance is superb. Cel-lar Selection. —P.G. abv: 14.1% Price: $42

92 Scott Paul 2011 The Long Run Pinot Noir (Dundee Hills). Previously labeled as Les

Gourmandises, this is now The Long Run in honor of Scott Wright’s completing his first full-length marathon in 2011. It’s all Nysa vineyard fruit, grace-ful and delicate, scented with rose water and satin smooth. Cranberry and wild strawberry fruit ac-cents lead into a mouthful of cherry soda, delicate but lingering. —P.G. abv: 12.9% Price: $45

92 Sokol Blosser 2010 Big Tree Block Pinot Noir (Dundee Hills). Softly fragrant and subtle,

it sends up an intriguing mix of aromatic spices, wreathed around red currant, wet stone and milk chocolate. —P.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $70

92 Sokol Blosser 2010 Orchard Block Pinot Noir (Dundee Hills). What separates the Orchard

Block in terms of taste is a certain saline quality that underscores pretty plum and blackberry fruit. It’s youthful and fresh, with balancing tannins and sufficient acidity for aging through 2020–2022. A gentle hint of chocolate weaves through the finish. —P.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $70

92 Sokol Blosser 2010 Peach Tree Block Pinot Noir (Dundee Hills). This is crisply defined,

dotted with cinnamon, and features tart pomegran-ate, cranberry and strawberry fruit. The sleek tan-nins frame a long, sturdy finish. Cellar Selection. —P.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $70

91 BlackCap 2010 Pinot Noir (Oregon). Beginning to round out its youthful edges, the BlackCap

(so named for the native Oregon mushroom, berry and bird) offers pretty pie-cherry fruit, savory herbs and silky tannins. There’s still some phenolic bite to the finish, suggesting that it can continue to smooth out over the next few years. —P.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $45

91 Ken Wright 2012 Pinot Noir (Willamette Val-ley). Ken Wright produces more than a dozen

single-vineyard Pinots in any given vintage. This wine, which sells for a fraction of the cost of those wines, uses many of the same grapes. It’s an aston-ishing value, lushly fruited, tangy and laced with appealing minerality. The mix of red fruits, earth, acid and mineral is a perfect encapsulation of the pricier cuvées’ strengths. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 13% Price: $25

91 Owen Roe 2012 Lenné Vineyard Pinot Noir (Yamhill-Carlton District). Bright and wound

up tight, this single-vineyard entry offers nicely-fo-cused raspberry and cherry fruit. Brief barrel aging

has added a touch of chocolate around the tannins. —P.G. abv: 14.1% Price: $55

91 Rex Hill 2011 Shea Vineyard Pinot Noir (Wil-lamette Valley). Hooray for Shea—a shining

star in this difficult vintage. Give it a good sniff and note the wood smoke, cedar and bacon scents rising from the glass. Fruit flavors tumble after, a complex mix of fig, berry and black cherry, with a streak of cola. It’s lively and lingering—drink now or cellar until 2024. —P.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $58

91 Saffron Fields Vineyard 2011 Pinot Noir (Yam-hill-Carlton District). Another excellent vin-

tage from Saffron Fields, under the guiding hand of veteran winemaker Tony Rynders. Buoyed by aging in 50% new French oak, it’s got more flesh than most Pinots from this cool vintage, along with gen-erous amounts of sweet spices and barrel toast. The red fruits and complementary acidity are also here in abundance. —P.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $48

91 Scott Paul 2011 La Paulée Pinot Noir (Willa-mette Valley). Scott Paul’s largest production

Pinot Noir is a nicely balanced, silky wine, ferment-ed with wild yeasts and structured for elegance. Raspberry, black cherry, a touch of blood orange and a lick of molasses all contribute. —P.G. abv: 12.9% Price: $39

91 Sokol Blosser 2010 Dundee Hills Pinot Noir (Dundee Hills). This cuvée offers a classic

mix of rose petals, black cherry and cola. It’s lively, fruity and light on its feet. Delicate touches of herb, pinpoint acidity, a hint of lime and perfect balance keep it satisfying through an extended finish. —P.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $45

91 Sokol Blosser 2010 Estate Cuvée Pinot Noir (Dundee Hills). This is already rounding off

nicely into mature flavors with notes of truffle, dried cherries, ginger and brown spices. Smooth and medium-bodied, it’s drinking in prime condi-tion, with finishing touches of fig and strawberry preserves. —P.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $60

91 Toil Oregon 2012 Pinot Noir (Willamette Val-ley). This is a new project for Chris Figgins

(Leonetti Cellar, FIGGINS, Doubleback), using grapes sourced from the Ribbon Ridge and Schindler vineyards. Dense with an exotic weave of aromatics, it has the irresistible appeal of the 2012 vintage. Mulberry, plum, cinnamon and a dash of truffle salt all combine in a plush, generous, well-integrated wine, with a rich, textural mouthfeel. —P.G. abv: 14.1% Price: $50

90 Chehalem 2012 Stoller Vineyards Pinot Noir (Dundee Hills). Classic Dundee Hills,

it has concentrated black cherry fruit at the core. It’s smooth, supple, balanced and forward, immedi-

ately engaging, though with enough stuffing to age through 2019. Light streaks of root beer and dark chocolate thread through the finish. —P.G. abv: 13.8% Price: $50

90 Chehalem 2011 Statement Pinot Noir (Rib-bon Ridge). This is a rarely made super-

reserve from the 30-year-old Ridgecrest vineyard. It echoes the other 2011 reserve bottling from Che-halem, with extra concentration and grip. The fruit flavors run to raspberry and cherry, and the wine is balanced and crisply defined. Cellar Selection. —P.G. abv: 13% Price: $99

90 Coelho 2012 Paciência Estate Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley). Ripe strawberry com-

pote typifies this appealing wine. The nicely ripened fruit is set in a mineral-driven, high acid frame, and shows both texture and length as it develops in the mouth. It’s especially noteworthy given the moder-ate alcohol. —P.G. abv: 12.5% Price: $45

90 Iota Cellars 2011 Pelos Sandberg Vineyard Pinot Noir (Eola-Amity Hills). This winery

makes just a single, estate-grown Pinot Noir each year. Pomegranate and red plum fruit flavors are gracefully showcased in this elegant vintage. Silky and smooth, it retains focus through a medium-weight, impeccably clean finish. —P.G. abv: 12.9% Price: $38

90 Owen Roe 2012 Sharecropper’s Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley). A super value, this

new Sharecropper’s offers very pretty black cherry fruit, a distinctive root beer flavor, and a bit of va-nilla. It’s forward and appealing, with more stuff-ing than most Pinots at this price. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 14.1% Price: $21

90 Ponzi 2012 Tavola Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley). Wonderfully fragrant, with a full-

on expression of dark, plummy, black cherry fruit, this is fairly substantial. Slightly smoky tannins grip and hold through a medium-long finish. Lovely texture, with a wash of cola running through the back end. —P.G. abv: 13.4% Price: $25

90 Rex Hill 2011 Old School Vineyard Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley). This cuvée offers

interesting complexity, with black cherry, wood smoke, cedar shake and a whiff of bacon fat. It’s tannic and stiff, a bit hard to unwrap, but far from a simple wine. It will reward your patience, whether you give it extra breathing time, or tuck it away in the cellar for a few years. —P.G. abv: 13% Price: $58

90 Willamette Valley Vineyards 2012 Bernau Block Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley). For

full review see page 6. Cellar Selection. abv: 13.9% Price: $55

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89 Boedecker Cellars 2011 Stewart Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley). The wine features very

pretty aromatics and a soft and elegant entry that is just on the edge of high-toned. The fruit is nicely ripened and the mouthfeel satiny, with a lick of mo-cha sliding across the finish. —P.G. abv: 13% Price: $35

89 Chehalem 2012 Corral Creek Vineyards Pinot Noir (Chehalem Mountains). Pretty milk

chocolate wraps around fresh strawberry fruit in this estate-grown, single-vineyard selection. A gen-tle wine, it turns almost soft in the middle, finishing with delicate flavors of rose water. —P.G. abv: 14% Price: $50

89 Chehalem 2011 Ridgecrest Vineyards Re-serve Pinot Noir (Ribbon Ridge). This falls

on the savory side, with fruit flavors running from rhubarb to tart strawberry. It’s balanced throughout and definitely on the lighter side. —P.G. abv: 13.1% Price: $60

89 Coelho 2012 Atração Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley). Tight and tart, this is packed with

concentrated, high-acid flavors of cranberry and raspberry. The wine is young and fresh, with both grip and depth, and should age nicely through 2019–2021. —P.G. abv: 12.9% Price: $25

89 David Hill 2011 Estate Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley). After a couple of stumbles in recent

vintages, this winery’s most affordable Pinot Noir is back on track. Bright raspberry fruit, tart and lightly floral, is framed with rather delicate, slightly leathery tannins. Just a sniff of chocolate adorns the finish. —P.G. abv: 12.5% Price: $20

89 Eola Hills 2012 Pinot Noir (Oregon). For an $18 Oregon Pinot, you can’t do much better

than this well-made wine from a top-flight vintage. Brambly black cherry fruit carries a streak of cola, with ripe, moderate tannins balancing out a medi-um-long finish. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 13.4% Price: $18

89 Kelley Fox 2011 Momtazi Vineyard Pinot Noir (McMinnville). Tart, tight and delicately

spicy, this offers unusual depth considering the cool vintage. Give it extra breathing time as it opens up slowly, showing lemony acidity, cranberry fruit and remarkable persistence. —P.G. abv: 12.5% Price: $40

89 Ken Wright 2012 Meredith Mitchell Vineyard Pinot Noir (McMinnville). Tasted along with

a dozen other single vineyard selections from Ken Wright, this feels a bit thin, but only in relation to a portfolio of astonishing power and depth. Truf-fle, red berries and sharp acidity combine nicely, though the finish falls away rather quickly. —P.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $65

89 Rex Hill 2011 Reserve Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley). Very little of this reserve was pro-

duced in 2011. A blend from five vineyards, it spent 10 months in 43% new oak. Firm and a bit steely, it has tight dark fruits anchored in a streak of earth and iron. Give it a few more years in the bottle, or decant if drinking it soon. —P.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $52

89 Stone Wolf 2012 Barrel Select Cuvée Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley). For full review see

page 7. Best Buy. abv: 13% Price: $14

88 Battle Creek 2011 Unconditional Pinot Noir (Oregon). Quite pale in color, this is an airy

style of Pinot with notes of cherry, citrus, coffee and mesquite. Flavors are light but juicy with mouthwa-tering acidity. —S.S. abv: 12.5% Price: $16

88 Boedecker Cellars 2011 Athena Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley). Nicely differentiated

from the companion Stewart bottling, this Athena is a sharp and spicy affair, with tight, tart cranberry and raspberry fruit. Native yeast fermentation and extended sur-lie aging add some snap to the finish. Try after 2016 for optimum enjoyment. —P.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $35

88 Chehalem 2012 Three Vineyard Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley). Full, fleshy and flavor-

ful, this blend of the three estate vineyards offers pretty fruit flavors of strawberry and Bing cherry. It carries a whiff of white pepper, along with luscious, orange-tinged acidity. —P.G. abv: 13.9% Price: $32

88 Domaine Loubejac 2010 Pinot Noir (Wil-lamette Valley). This late release is dry

verging on astringent, with a tight shell of herb and stem. Inside a good core of tart fruit—cranberry and raspberry—still seems young and suggests that de-canting and/or further bottle age will see this wine continue to improve. —P.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $21

88 Portlandia 2012 Pinot Noir (Willamette Val-ley). Done in a clean, quaffable style, this

brings a mix of beet root, sassafras, amaro and brown sugar flavors into play, with a round, pleas-antly fruity midpalate. It’s a country wine, great for glugging. —P.G. abv: 13.8% Price: $25

88 Potter’s Vineyard 2012 Dario Estate Pinot Noir (Chehalem Mountains). Sourced from

a three-acre vineyard planted in 2001, this smooth and quite pretty Pinot is round and fruity, offering lots of blueberry and raspberry fruit. It’s laced to-gether with a tight streak of coffee and toast. —P.G. abv: 14.2% Price: $25

88 Spindrift Cellars 2012 Barrel Select Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley). The Barrel Select

offers a bit more concentration than the winery’s regular Pinot, with meatier tannins and highlights of spice and coffee grounds. It’s soundly made and already drinks well in a forward, accessible style. —P.G. abv: 14.2% Price: $32

88 Wy’East Vineyards 2012 Reserve Pinot Noir (Columbia Gorge). The aromas of strawber-

ry, orange peel and plum seem a bit muddled, while the palate brings greater clarity and delineation to the medium bodied, creamy-feeling fruit flavors. —S.S. abv: 12.7% Price: $40

87 Elkhorn Ridge 2011 Le Terre Foss Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley). Possessing intensely

floral aromatics, this distinctive wine also pulls in Asian spices, specifically curry. The fruit hangs on the light side of the red spectrum, with a dash of cherry candy. —P.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $29

87 La Crema 2012 Pinot Noir (Willamette Val-ley). This smooth wine offers red fruits all

the way, unperturbed by the usual complications of soil, herb or rock. Medium long, fresh, tasty and un-challenging. —P.G. abv: 13.9% Price: $30

87 Spindrift Cellars 2012 Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley). Pleasant and straightforward, this

displays true-to-varietal scents and fruit flavors plus good balance. It’s a simple wine that does not reach past pleasant vin ordinaire. —P.G. abv: 14% Price: $22

87 Walnut City WineWorks 2012 Pinot Noir (Wil-lamette Valley). Here’s a round and fruity,

ready-right-now Pinot Noir, anchored in strawberry fruit and lightly dusted with coffee grounds. The finish turns a bit stiff and stemmy. —P.G. abv: 13.7% Price: $21

87 Walnut City WineWorks 2012 Reserve Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley). Compared with the

the regular bottling, this reserve has a touch more concentration to the black cherry fruit. It pays for it with some hard, rather stemmy tannins that can turn bitter. Give this some extra time to breathe af-ter being opened. —P.G. abv: 13% Price: $30

87 Willamette Valley Vineyards 2012 Estate Pi-not Noir (Willamette Valley). More full-bod-

ied than the past couple of vintages, the 2012 Estate bottling features fruit flavors of rhubarb and cran-berry, a light sprinkling of peppery herb, and drying tannins, with a bit of clay in the aftertaste. —P.G. abv: 14.2% Price: $30

87 Wy’East Vineyards 2012 Blue Chip Pinot Noir (Columbia Gorge). Though hailing from the

warm, dry 2012 vintage, this wine remains quite re-strained in style with its notes of wild strawberry,

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freshly rubbed mint and cola. It doesn’t quite have the concentration to deliver all that the aromas promise. —S.S. abv: 12.7% Price: $25

86 City Winery Chicago 2012 Hyland Vineyard Reserve Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley).

Some young-tasting, tart raspberry fruit is front and center here, with the character of hard candy. It hits the palate quickly and stays there, without showing much else. More bottle age may help to un-wind this a bit. —P.G. abv: 13.3% Price: $35

86 Girardet 2010 Barrel Select Pinot Noir (Umpqua Valley). With this wine that

comes from the cool 2010 vintage, you have to strain to hear the notes of cranberry, herbs and orange peel. The style is light, almost faint though remaining well executed. —S.S. abv: 12.7% Price: $28

86 Kramer 2012 Estate Pinot Noir (Yamhill-Carlton District). Scents of purple fruits and

wood smoke lead into a straightforward, fruity wine that plays out broadly across the palate. Despite its forward nature, it thins out quickly. There’s a bit of chocolate (from aging in 25% new French oak) in the finish. —P.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $22

86 Plowbuster 2012 Pinot Noir (Chehalem Mountains). Easy-drinking, it combines

simple berry flavors, sharp acids, and a tannic streak of herb. —P.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $20

86 VinStrata 2008 Pinot Noir (Willamette Val-ley). Already entering its maturity, this of-

fers flavors of dried cherries, cherry tobacco and rather tough, chewy tannins. It seems to have a hole in the midpalate, and may be moving quickly past its prime. Drink up. —P.G. abv: 14% Price: $47

86 Willamette Valley Vineyards 2013 Whole Cluster Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley). This

wine is made via carbonic maceration, much like a Beaujolais, and shows a friendly, forward fruity character. It’s smooth and agreeable, with cher-ry, apple and orange juice flavors that show some sweetness in the mouth. —P.G. abv: 12.5% Price: $22

86 Winter’s Hill 2012 Watershed Pinot Noir (Dundee Hills). This is a pleasant, fruity,

rather light wine, easily approachable already. The mild raspberry fruit flavors are set against streaks of herb and finished with green tea tannins. —P.G. abv: 14% Price: $25

85 Elkhorn Ridge 2011 777 Pinot Noir (Willa-mette Valley). Floral aromas and flavors

mingle in a sweet, slightly soapy midpalate. The

fruit is nondescript; what is most noticeable are the brown, sweet spices. —P.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $29

85 Kramer 2011 Cardiac Hill Pinot Noir (Yamhill-Carlton District). This special selection is

already showing some brick around the rim and seems to be aging rapidly. The flavors are mostly herb and root, sassafras and beet root in particular, with the fruit leaning toward Dr. Pepper soda. —P.G. abv: 13% Price: $40

85 Primarius 2012 Pinot Noir (Oregon). A dis-tinctive bottle with notes of fresh herbs,

rose hips, mint and cola. However the flavors can’t back it all up, with black tea tannins that seem un-resolved. —S.S. abv: 12% Price: $16

84 Redgate 2012 Estate Grown Pinot Noir (Wil-lamette Valley). Aging quickly, this tastes

principally of raisins and brown sugar. The tannins are soft and the wine is at or slightly past its peak. Drink up. —P.G. abv: 12.5% Price: $30

83 Yamhill Valley 2012 Estate Pinot Noir (Mc-Minnville). Volatile and showing some

scents of glue, this hides its cherry fruit. It’s drink-able, but for those with a high sensitivity to volatil-ity it may be problematic. —P.G. abv: 13.9% Price: $22

CABERNET SAUVIGNON

94 Seven Hills 2011 Seven Hills Vineyard Caber-net Sauvignon (Walla Walla Valley). For full

review see page 3. Cellar Selection. abv: 13.7% Price: $45

86 Jacob Williams 2010 Eagle Ranch Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon (Columbia Valley). This

rough and tumble Cabernet is oaky and smoky in both scent and flavor. It’s a rustic, country wine, big and bold and raw around the edges, but packed with flavor. —P.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $35

85 Styring Vineyards 2010 Shameless Cabernet Sauvignon (Columbia Valley). This high-

toned bruiser pushes ultraripe scents of figs and raisins and prunes to the front, yet shows a green streak in the tannins. The wine spent 34 months in barrel, which adds more heavy-duty accents but does not mask the underlying stemminess. —P.G. abv: 15.8% Price: $45

RED BLENDS

93 Tero Estates 2010 Windrow Vineyards Wind-row Red (Walla Walla Valley). This is a field

blend of 70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 14% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Franc, and 6% Malbec, all co-fer-

mented and estate-grown. It’s nicely evolved, ripe and fruity—a flavor cavalcade of pastry fruits and spices, fig, twig, cacao and coffee. Yes you may cellar this wine, but why wait? It’s drinking beautifully. —P.G. abv: 14.9% Price: $45

92 JM Cellars 2011 Margaret’s Vineyard Estate Red (Walla Walla Valley). For full review see

page 4. Editors’ Choice. abv: 14.6% Price: $36

92 Tero Estates 2010 Windrow Vineyards DC3 Red (Walla Walla Valley). This is a Right

Bank-style blend of 62% Merlot and 38% Caber-net Franc. It shows impressive structure and clear varietal components from both grapes. Tannins are fine-grained and lead into a lingering streak of smooth, coffee-coated flavors. —P.G. abv: 14.4% Price: $38

85 Girardet 2011 Touchdown Red (Umpqua Val-ley). Named after the winemaker’s emer-

gency flight landing on the local interstate, this is an unusual blend of Landot Noir, Chancellor, Zin-fandel, Syrah and Maréchal Foch, along with bits of Pinot and Gamay Noir. It brings brings aromas and flavors of green olive, tire rubber and sea breeze with mouthwatering acidity. It doesn’t all fit but still piques the interest plenty. —S.S. abv: 13% Price: $15

OTHER RED WINES

91 Tyrus Evan 2010 Syrah (Walla Walla Valley). This is 100% Syrah from the Seven Hills

vineyard, a firm and tannic effort with dark, rich flavors. Cassis, black pepper, coffee grounds and gravelly mineral flavors combine in a muscular wine with big bones and a finishing lick of citrus. —P.G. abv: 14.8% Price: $38

90 JM Cellars 2011 Margaret’s Vineyard Malbec (Walla Walla Valley). Pure Malbec from the

new estate vineyard, this is forward with sweetly grapy fruit flavors. Aging in 80% new oak adds a streak of espresso and pretty baking spices. —P.G. abv: 14.4% Price: $45

88 David Hill 2010 Tempranillo (Rogue Valley). Aged 24 months in a combination of French

and American oak, it’s brooding with notes of bak-ing spices, dark fruit, coffee and chocolate. There’s a pleasing sense of balance save for some grittiness to the tannins that distracts. —S.S. abv: 13.8% Price: $30

88 Jacob Williams 2009 Hi-Valley Vineyard Syr-ah (Columbia Valley). This well-aged release

definitely falls on the ripe-to-the-point-of-raisins side of the fruit spectrum. It’s almost Port-like, with flavors of blackberry pie and coffee. Not a dessert

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wine though—it’s bone dry and ready to drink right now. —P.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $28

85 Schmidt 2010 Schmidt Family Vineyards Es-tate Merlot (Applegate Valley). Fresh and

fruity, it has aromas of red currant, cranberry, plum and orange peel. These are followed by medium-bodied fruit flavors with cranberry-like acidity. —S.S. abv: 13.8% Price: $34

84 Girardet 2012 Baco Noir (Umpqua Valley). This rarely seen variety (a hybrid from a

cross of a French grape with an indigenous North American one) brings notes of ash, green olive and an assortment of berries. It’s medium bodied with a low-alcohol feel and cranberry-like tartness. —S.S. abv: 13% Price: $28

CHILECHARDONNAY

87 Quintay 2012 Q Chardonnay (Casablanca Val-ley). Peach, apple, vanilla and dusty aromas

lead to a zesty palate with guts and nice acidity. This tastes like a mash-up of apple, citrus and nectarine, while the finish is largely bright and forward, with just a touch of mealiness at the tail end. Regal Wine Imports Inc. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $16

87 Veramonte 2012 Chardonnay (Casablanca Valley). For a $12 Chardonnay, one can do

far worse than this juicy, fruity number. Opening aromas of vanilla, melon and saline water transition to flavors of tropical fruits and green table grapes. The finish is simple but full and ripe, with a touch of heat and burn. Huneeus Vintners. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $12

86 Echeverria 2013 Classic Collection Unwood-ed Chardonnay (Curicó Valley). Apple and

peach aromas are dusty and lightly tropical. With no oak, fruit is all you get in this Chardonnay; flavors of apple, nectarine and melon run clean, sweet and ripe, while the finish is mellow and lands smack in the middle of the fairway. Ararat Import/Export Co. LLC. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $10

85 Conde de Velázquez 2012 El Conde Gran Reserva Chardonnay (Aconcagua Valley).

Mild apple and mango aromas are a fair set-up for a round, peachy palate with flavors of nectarine, mel-on and citrus fruits. This feels tropical and melony on the finish, with an oily, slightly bitter aftertaste. WTWM Imports. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $15

85 Tololo 2012 Chardonnay (Maule Valley). This is a basic but nice Chardonnay with lightly

oaked aromas of pear, apple and tropical fruits. The

palate is fresh and healthy, while apple, mango and peach flavors settle with a hint of bitter matchstick and leftover tropical notes. Regal Wine Imports Inc. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $10

85 Viña Requingua 2012 Toro de Piedra Grand Reserve Single Vineyard Chardonnay (Maule

Valley). Overpowering, intense barrel aromas are resiny and fully toasted. This oaky Chardonnay is flush and textured in the mouth. Flavors of resiny, raw wood are front and center, followed by wood-spice and hickory. A final heaping of oak is poured onto this wine’s barrel-heavy finish. Puerto Viejo Wines. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $16

84 Rubus 2013 Chardonnay (Colchagua Valley). Gritty matchstick and sulfuric aromas turn

toward dusty apple with airing. This is round in feel, with sugary flavors of vanilla, melon and mango. If it weren’t for its lively acidity, this would be simple syrup under the guise of Chardonnay. Kysela Père et Fils. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $18

84 Santa Ema 2013 Select Terroir Unoaked Chardonnay (Maipo Valley). Mild vanilla

cookie and dusty, yeasty aromas get this unoaked Chardonnay going. An innocuous-feeling palate carries melony flavors of honey, sweet apple and ba-nana, while a touch of brine rises up on the finish. TGIC Importers. —M.S. abv: 12.5% Price: $10

83 Alta Delta 2013 Chardonnay (Curicó Valley). Initial aromas are melony before becoming

bland. The palate is chunky, with soft acidity. Fla-vors of pear and citrus taste green, while the finish is inoffensive. Kosher. AIKO INC. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $11

82 Apaltagua 2013 Reserva Unoaked Chardon-nay (Casablanca Valley). Mealy white-fruit

aromas are lacking in clarity and freshness, while the flavor profile is based on pineapple. The finish is broad and heavy. Global Vineyard Importers. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $12

SAUVIGNON BLANC

91 Concha y Toro 2013 Terrunyo Costa Los Boldos Vineyard Block 5 Sauvignon Blanc (Casablan-

ca Valley). Minerally citrus aromas are the greeting on this high-end, pure SB. Stony minerality and citric acidity make for a fresh, polished mouthfeel, while flavors of lime, passion fruit and grapefruit are focused and smooth, and not at all soft. When people talk about fine cool-climate Chilean SB, this is what they should be referencing. Excelsior Wines. Editors’ Choice. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $30

90 Kingston Family 2013 Cariblanco Sauvignon Blanc (Casablanca Valley). Initially this is

simply clean as a whistle and smells almost like wa-ter, but give it time to breathe and out come min-erally citrus and cactus-like aromas. In the mouth, this is stony and well structured; flavors of citrus and nopal are slightly briny and salty, while the finish has a cutting but fine feel. Kingston Family Vineyards. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $18

90 Luis Felipe Edwards 2013 Marea Sauvignon Blanc (Leyda Valley). If you want to taste

a true cool-climate SB with chiseled aromas and tons of cutting acidity, this is it. Aromas are lightly vegetal but also include citrus and passion fruit. Flavors of tangerine, passion fruit, rosemary and thyme finish citrusy and zesty. This is so linear it will cut through almost any kind of food. Domaine Select Wine Estates. Editors’ Choice. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $25

90 Quintay 2013 Grand Reserve Sauvignon Blanc (Casablanca Valley). This is definite-

ly a cool-climate SB from Chile. The nose is crisp yet not pushy, with aromas of gooseberry, nettle and snap pea along with grapefruit and lemon. A punchy, lively palate feel is just right for the wine’s passion fruit, nettle, tangerine and grassy flavors, while the finish is long and cutting. Regal Wine Im-ports Inc. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $16

90 Ritual 2013 Sauvignon Blanc (Casablanca Valley). Ritual is Veramonte’s top la-

bel from Casablanca and this wine is up to snuff. Grassy, green aromas of lettuce and tropical fruits set up a clean, medium-weight palate with grape-fruit, gooseberry and lime flavors. A touch of bit-ter pyrazines rise up on the finish and dance with residual citrus notes and minerality. Huneeus Vint-ners. —M.S. abv: 14.1% Price: $18

89 Errazuriz 2013 Max Reserva Sauvignon Blanc (Aconcagua Costa). Prickly aromas of nettle

and minerally lime are reflections of the coastal climate that influences this citrusy SB. Flavors of orange peel, white grapefruit and passion fruit turn more pithy and pyrazinic on the finish, which keeps its juicy ripeness without turning green. Vintus LLC. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $20

89 Lomas del Valle 2013 Coastal Cool Climate Sauvignon Blanc (Casablanca Valley).

Green-fruit and citrus aromas come with a note of saline. This SB is cut like a razor’s edge, with tangy, citric acids. Flavors of lime and green apple break up with time and finish mild in flavor but zesty in feel. W. Direct. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $16

89 Matetic 2013 Corralillo Sauvignon Blanc (San Antonio). A full spectrum of Chilean

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SB aromas are present, from grass to citrus to tropi-cal fruits to vegetal notes. This feels fresh but more or less regular. Flavors of green fruits come with grassy interjections, while the finish is good and clean. Quintessential Wines. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $15

89 Matetic 2013 EQ Coastal Sauvignon Blanc (Casablanca Valley). Crisp aromas of grassy

green fruits, cactus and nettle set up a standard palate, which for this wine means ripped and racy. Flavors of stone fruits, lime, passion fruit and bitter greens end lightly bitter, juicy and green. Quintes-sential Wines. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $20

89 Undurraga 2013 Sibaris Reserva Especial Sauvignon Blanc (Leyda Valley). Minerally,

oceanic aromas of tangerine and sea air run into a palate that’s clear, linear and tangy, with scour-ing acidity. Flavors of tangerine, lime and passion fruit finish citrusy but not too shearing or pushy. This will go well with shellfish. Testa Wines Of The World. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $17

88 Alto Los Romeros 2013 Gran Reserva Sauvi-gnon Blanc (Leyda Valley). Passion fruit and

canned pea aromas are typical of Leyda, especially in a cool year like 2013. This is consistent on the palate, with zesty acidity. Flavors of passion fruit, mango, lime and green herbs finish citrusy and fresh. Domaine Select Wine Estates. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $18

88 Casas del Bosque 2013 Gran Reserva Sauvi-gnon Blanc (Casablanca Valley). Green aro-

mas of lime and gooseberry are true to the winery, region and variety. This is round and not overly chiseled or cutting. Flavors of green fruits, passion fruit and lychee finish green, with hints of aspara-gus and bell pepper. Southern Starz, Inc. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $17

88 Concha y Toro 2013 Marques de Casa Con-cha Sauvignon Blanc (Leyda Valley). Nettle

and gritty citrus aromas suggest matchstick. In the mouth, this SB pumps citrus notes and minerality, while flavors of tangerine, lime and lemon are zesty and shearing. An acid-driven finish confirms the wine’s one-note, chiseled quality. Excelsior Wines. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $23

88 Errazuriz 2013 Aconcagua Costa Single Vine-yard Sauvignon Blanc (Aconcagua Valley).

Stony citrus and passion fruit aromas are a touch gritty. Overall, this is focused, minerally and green in nature. Flavors of lime and green mango finish with snap pea and a hint of jalapeño. Acidity and juiciness define the wine. Vintus LLC. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $20

88 Lapostolle 2013 Cuvée Alexandre Las Kuras Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc (Cachapoal Val-

ley). Oak and matchstick are the early aromas on this barrel-heavy SB. The palate is smooth, mellow and a bit flaccid. Toasty, spicy flavors lead a mix of green herb, citrus and tropical fruit notes, while the finish offers residual woodspice but not much kick. Terlato Wines International. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $25

88 Loma Larga 2013 Sauvignon Blanc (Casa-blanca Valley). Tropical fruit aromas in-

clude passion fruit and melon on a fairly intense nose. A lifted, acid-driven palate is home to passion fruit, citrus and tropical fruit flavors, while the fin-ish is citrusy but grassy, with a modicum of bitter-ness and pyrazines. W. Direct. —M.S. abv: 12.5% Price: $22

88 Mayu 2013 Sauvignon Blanc (Elqui Valley). This Elqui SB delivers green-fruit aromas of

underripe melon and pea along with passion fruit. In the mouth, it shows good body and acidity, while grassy flavors blend with tropical notes. A green but not vegetal finish provides a good ending. Vine Con-nections. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $15

87 Peñalolen 2013 Sauvignon Blanc (San Anto-nio). Citrus, melon and saline aromas are

quiet in nature. This is fresh and a bit on the plump side, with fruity, almost sweet flavors of honeydew, lime and mango. A flush, easy finish could benefit from more direct acidity. Drink immediately. Global Vineyard Importers. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $13

86 Casas del Bosque 2013 Reserva Sauvignon Blanc (Casablanca Valley). Sweaty, nutty

aromas of popcorn and nettle lead to a chunky, somewhat soft palate. Flavors of mango, bell pep-per and sea salt are fair, while the finish is ripe and relatively soft, with mild cut. Drink now. Southern Starz, Inc. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $13

86 Concha y Toro 2013 Serie Riberas Gran Reser-va Ribera del Rapel Sauvignon Blanc (Rapel

Valley). Yeasty aromas make an aggressive opening with green influences. This is fresh and pulpy in the mouth, with flavors of bell pepper and pyrazines. A finish of pithy green fruits is common for Chile. Ex-celsior Wines. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $15

86 Viña Requingua 2013 Puerto Viejo Estate Bottled Single Vineyard Reserve Sauvignon

Blanc (Maule Valley). For full review see page 8. Best Buy. abv: 13.5% Price: $10

85 Calcu 2013 Sauvignon Blanc (Colchagua Val-ley). Aromas of citrus, green bean and grit-

tiness settle on an even narrower palate, which is lemony and linear in feel and tastes like tart citrus, mostly grapefruit. Lemon and grapefruit flavors lin-

ger on a finish that offers no variation. Global Vine-yard Importers. —M.S. abv: 12.5% Price: $14

85 Santa Rita 2013 120 Sauvignon Blanc (Cen-tral Valley). For full review see page 8. Best

Buy. abv: 13.5% Price: $9

84 Santa Rita 2013 Reserva Organic Sauvignon Blanc (Central Valley). Aromas of nettle, bell

pepper and lime are slightly gritty and harsh. This feels average in terms of intensity and clarity; fla-vors of pineapple and green apple are slightly bitter and stalky, while the finish is inconsequential and tastes mildly bitter. Palm Bay International. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $13

83 Black Box 2013 Sauvignon Blanc (Central Valley). Blowsy aromas aren’t all that “vari-

etal” in character. This boxed wine feels plump but direct, with flabby flavors of peach and nectarine. Constellation Brands, Inc. —M.S. abv: 12.5% Price: $25/3 L

OTHER WHITE WINES

87 Viña Bisquertt 2013 La Joya Gran Reserva Viognier (Colchagua Valley). This has a pow-

dery nose and melony, tropical fruit aromas. The mouthfeel is pleasant and round, with vital acidity. Flavors of baked apple, buttercup and briny apricot finish smooth, with a pinch of salt. Prestige Wine Group. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $15

84 Concha y Toro 2013 Terrunyo Costa Los Bol-des Vineyard Block 6 Riesling (Casablanca

Valley). Like German or Alsace Rieslings, this Chil-ean version hints at petrol but falls short, thus the nose is wayward and perfumed. In the mouth, this is peachy in feel, with sweet but uncommitted flavors of nectarine and apricot. A chunky finish comes up short on acidity and structure. Excelsior Wines. —M.S. abv: 11.5% Price: $30

83 Viña Bisquertt 2013 La Joya Gran Reserva Gewürztraminer (Colchagua Valley). Exotic

aromas of talcum powder and gardenia are true to the variety, while the mouthfeel is flabby and soft. Flavors of lychee and green melon turn bitter and pyrazinic on the finish. Prestige Wine Group. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $15

82 Viña Casablanca 2013 Nimbus Single Vine-yard Gewürztraminer (Casablanca Valley).

Oily, nutty, gritty aromas show hints of white flower and tropical fruits. The palate is loud, broad, and somewhat oily in texture. Flavors of lychee and cit-rus finish heavy. Carolina Wine Brands USA. —M.S. abv: 13.7% Price: $15

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ROSÉS

84 Calcu 2013 Rosé (Colchagua Valley). This is light in color, with minerally aromas and a

hint of tropical fruit on the nose. A shearing pal-ate overwhelms with acidity, while flavors of zesty citrus and pink grapefruit create leftover sizzle on a tangy, scouring finish. Global Vineyard Importers. —M.S. abv: 12% Price: $14

84 Estampa 2013 Estate Rosé (Colchagua Val-ley). Light cherry and raspberry aromas

come with a note of apple skins. The feel is plump but midland, with mealy notes. Flavors of cherry and plum are bland, while overall this wine is de-cent but lacking in personality. American Estates Wines, Inc. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $15

84 Oveja Negra 2013 Syrah-Carignan Reserva Rosé (Maule Valley). Plum and cherry aro-

mas are good but undistinguished. The palate is a bit rubbery in feel, while the flavor profile is fruity but nonspecific. The finish offers citrus and red-fruit notes, but nothing beyond that. Old Bridge Cellars. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $11

84 Santa Alicia 2013 Reserva Espiritu de Los An-des Cabernet Sauvignon-Syrah Rosé (Maipo

Valley). Simple aromas of generic red fruits and watermelon settle on a pithy, rather heavy palate. Pyrazine-rich flavors of bitter citrus finish with notes of pink grapefruit and tangerine. Halby Mar-keting. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $10

83 Apaltagua 2013 Estate Grown Carmenère Rosé (Central Valley). Stalky, bitter aromas

suggest a book of matches. This is citric and shear-ing on the tongue, with zesty flavors that are un-disginuished. The finish is sharp and mildly bitter. Global Vineyard Importers. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $12

CABERNET SAUVIGNON

93 Errazuriz 2011 Viñedo Chadwick Cabernet Sauvignon (Maipo Valley). Confident, smoky

aromas of black fruits, quality oak and mineral-ity set up a round, dense, smooth palate that’s as elegant as things get in Chile. True Cabernet Sau-vignon flavors are spicy, lightly herbal and suggest licorice, cassis and blackberry. On the finish, warm oak, menthol and medicinal flavors call for another few years in bottle. Best from 2016–2023. Vintus LLC. Cellar Selection. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $400

92 Concha y Toro 2011 Terrunyo Andes Pirque Vineyard Block Las Terrazas Cabernet Sauvi-

gnon (Pirque). Deep, alluring aromas of blackberry

and cassis are youthful and thus a bit animal and wild. In the mouth, this young CS is chunky, rub-bery and dense. Flavors of blackberry, cassis and black coffee are on the dark side, while the finish offers a meaty, substantive feel, tons of lasting fruit flavor, and a touch of heat and burn that will fade away with more time in bottle. Best from 2016–2022. Excelsior Wines. Cellar Selection. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $50

90 Echeverria 2010 Founder’s Selection Cab-ernet Sauvignon (Maipo Valley). Herbal

overtones of tomato leaf and wild thyme vie with roasted, crusty berry aromas on the nose of this full-bodied, traditional Cab. The mouthfeel is full but not punishing or overly tannic. Flavors of herbal berry fruits and plum are a touch stalky, while the finish hits with oaky notes of vanilla and spice along with a final touch of tomato and herbs. Drink through 2019. Ararat Import/Export Co. LLC. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $40

89 Apaltagua 2011 Signature Cabernet Sauvi-gnon (Maipo Valley). Roasted, woodsy, sa-

vory aromas of spiced berry and plum set up a racy palate with flavors of herbal, earthy raspberry and plum. Although a touch leafy and herbal on the fin-ish, it’s also firmly structured, balanced and show-ing complexity. Drink through 2017. Global Vineyard Importers. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $35

89 Cousiño-Macul 2011 Antiguas Reservas Cabernet Sauvignon (Maipo Valley). Rub-

bery dark-fruit aromas are surrounded by hints of olive, minerals and spice. This feels round as well as fair and balanced; flavors of loamy blackberry are smooth and come with chocolate notes. Coffee, spice and herbal flavors work the finish. Winebow. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $17

88 Altaïr 2009 Red (Cachapoal Valley). Rub-bery aromas of latex are earthy and suggest

olive, wet dog and foxy, gritty berry fruits. This is saturated in feel, with prune and stewy berry fla-vors. Savory notes of prune, carob and rooty spice control a chunky, ripe finish. T. Edward Wines Ltd. —M.S. abv: NA Price: $80

88 Conde de Velázquez 2011 Estate Vintage Cabernet Sauvignon (Aconcagua Valley).

Secure, spicy, dry and woody on the nose, it’s firm, fresh and collected on the palate. Flavors of loamy berry and cocoa finish earthy and solid, with bal-ance and length. This offers almost all you want from Chilean Cab priced under $20. WTWM Im-ports. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $18

88 Emiliana 2011 Novas Gran Reserva Made with Organically Grown Grapes Cabernet

Sauvignon (Maipo Valley). Berry, cassis, wood shav-

ings and loamy earth are the main aromas. Lightly baked flavors of blackberry and plum come with ol-ive and herbal accents. This is oaky, a touch minty and generally comfortable on the finish. Banfi Vint-ners. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $16

87 Leyendas de Familia 2012 Reserva Caber-net Sauvignon (Maule Valley). Cassis and

plum aromas come with a whiff of rubber. This is clean and ripe in feel, with good body and a bit of structure. Flavors of cassis and black cherry show a chocolaty edge in front of a juicy, pure, direct finish. AIKO INC. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 12.5% Price: $10

87 Undurraga 2012 Sibaris Reserva Especial Cabernet Sauvignon (Maipo Valley). Pep-

pery, herbal lead aromas settle on lactic, chocolaty oak and berry scents. This feels fresh, grabby and fairly well balanced. Flavors of blackberry, cassis and spice filter down to a solid feeling finish with flavors of cassis, herbs and spice. Testa Wines Of The World. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $17

87 Viña Requingua 2011 Potro de Piedra Family Reserve Single Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon-

Cabernet Franc (Curicó Valley). Blackberry, spice, horseradish and oak aromas filter onto a tight, raw feeling palate. This tastes oaky and lemony up front, with berry flavors forming a solid base. Plum, blueberry and herbal flavors drive a tangy, juicy, high-acid finish. A blend of 85% Cabernet Sauvi-gnon and 15% Cabernet Franc. Puerto Viejo Wines. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $30

87 Viña Requingua 2011 Toro de Piedra Gran Reserva Single Vineyard Cabernet Sauvi-

gnon (Colchagua Valley). Smoky aromas of burning hickory are matched by lemon peel and earthy berry scents. This is a rubbery feeling wine, with grabby tannins. Flavors of black cherry, cassis and rubber suggest plastic. On the finish, lactic oak wrestles with a residual hint of green. Puerto Viejo Wines. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $15

86 Anakena 2012 Enco Reserve Cabernet Sau-vignon (Cachapoal Valley). Tomato leaf,

olive and floral notes carry the nose on this wine that offers a juicy mouthfeel and raspberry, plum and spice flavors. Although it’s a generic, textbook Chilean Cab, it’s balanced in feel and good in flavor. Evaton, Inc. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $14

86 Miguel Torres 2012 Las Mulas Reserva Caber-net Sauvignon (Central Valley). Spicy, pep-

pery cherry and plum aromas precede a medium-bodied palate with grip but not much depth. This tastes warm and spicy, with driving berry flavors.

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34 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | AUGUST 2014

A fresh, lightly woody finish fits the wine. Dreyfus, Ashby & Co. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $14

86 Santa Ema 2010 Amplus Cabernet Sauvi-gnon (Maipo Valley). The 2010 vintage in

Chile was quite cool, and that’s reflected in this wine. Aromas of berry fruits are lean and under-developed. In the mouth, this shows astringency and rubbery tannins, while flavors of red fruits are slightly sharp and a touch green. Drying tannins make for a drawing finish. TGIC Importers. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $22

86 Undurraga 2012 U Estate Grown Cabernet Sauvignon (Rapel Valley). Floral soap, plum

and red-berry aromas bring a pinch of spice to the nose. This is lively and a bit of a grinder on the pal-ate, with zingy acidity and some grit. Plum, berry and ripe tomato flavors finish short and simple. Testa Wines Of The World. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: NA Price: $11

85 Color Block 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon (Cen-tral Valley). Leather, spice, latex, plum and

cherry aromas hold down the fort in front of a fair and balanced palate. Flavors of plum and berry are slightly medicinal, while the finish offers a clean feel and easygoing red-fruit flavors. Winery Exchange. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 12% Price: $10

85 Viña Requingua 2012 Puerto Viejo Estate Bottled Single Vineyard Reserve Cabernet

Sauvignon (Curicó Valley). For full review see page 8. Best Buy. abv: 14% Price: $10

85 Xavier Flouret 2011 Oscar Cabernet Sau-vignon (Central Valley). Olive and meaty

black-fruit aromas control this wine that feels tangy and a bit high in acidity. Berry, plum and herbal flavors finish moderately oaky, with notes of salty brine and peppery spice. Cognac One, LLC. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $13

84 Apaltagua 2012 Reserva Cabernet Sauvi-gnon (Apalta). Roasted, leafy aromas are

herbal and shy on fruit content. This feels raw and downright edgy. Flavors of herbal berry fruits are generic, while the finish is alert and active in feel due to lasting acidity. Global Vineyard Importers. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $12

84 Beach Kite 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon (Cen-tral Valley). Scratchy, dusty plum and berry

aromas come with a topping of candied, chocolaty oak. This feels creamy and candied on the palate, with vanilla and cocoa powder flavors on top of ge-neric berry. A dusting of forced, sweet oak persists on the finish. Puerto Viejo Wines. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $7

84 Quintay 2012 Clava Reserve Cabernet Sauvi-gnon (Maipo Valley). Crusty, crisp aromas

are herbal, spicy and not all that fruity. This is rub-bery in feel, with plenty of oak, candied berry, herb and mild green flavors. It concludes with a resiny, oaky, herbal finish. Regal Wine Imports Inc. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $14

82 PKNT 2012 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon (Rapel Valley). Oaky, chemical aromas top

generic berry scents. The palate is creamy and grabby, while fake-tasting, candied oak is the domi-nant flavor. This feels cloying and tastes like vanilla and processed milk chocolate on the finish. Bronco Wine Company. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $11

CABERNET FRANC

92 Maquis 2010 Franco Cabernet Franc (Colcha-gua Valley). With its compact nose of black-

berry and cassis aromas, this wine comes across as ripe and modern. In the mouth, it’s round, bouncy, tannic and exuberant, but not overdone. Flavors of blackberry and fig are smooth, while the finish is rich and ready. Drink through 2017. Global Vineyard Importers. Editors’ Choice. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $85

88 Valle Secreto 2011 Private Cabernet Franc (Cachapoal Valley). Cedary spice notes ac-

cent aromas of raspberry and plum on this firm wine. The palate is big, creamy and blocky, with oaky flavors of vanilla as well as earthy plum and red berry. Cocoa, spice and vanilla flavors are prom-inent on an oaky finish. Drink through 2017. AWDi-rect. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $30

84 Loma Larga 2010 Unfiltered Cabernet Franc (Casablanca Valley). This smells gritty and

herbaceous. In the mouth, it’s narrow, tannic and astringent, with flavors of lemony oak sitting on top of black fruits, olive and green herbs. Overall this is a green-leaning wine with a rooty, herbal finish. W. Direct. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $28

MALBEC

90 Viu Manent 2010 Viu 1 Malbec (Colchagua Valley). Viu 1 is pure Malbec, and this

rendition is one of the more ripe and jammy ver-sions on record. The color is pitch black, the nose is saturated and fully extracted, and the feel is almost syrupy. Flavors of prune and blackberry finish heavy and oaky, with a lasting note of raisin. Tasted three times with mostly consistent results. Baystate Wine & Spirits. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $90

89 Viu Manent 2010 San Carlos Single Vineyard Malbec (Colchagua Valley). Prune, black-

berry and mossy notes are in the lead on this oaky, ripe and tannic Malbec. A saturated palate delivers flavors of coconut and vanilla that are oak-driven, and then wild berry flavors and chocolate rush in. A burly finish is flavor-packed and rugged. Drink through 2017. Baystate Wine & Spirits. —M.S. abv: 15% Price: $25

87 Loma Larga 2010 Unfiltered Malbec (Casa-blanca Valley). Damp, herbal aromas of pine,

juniper and olive blend with black-fruit scents. Dense and mouthfilling, it features flavors of black fruits, savory spices and rubber that finish herbal and a mile long. This may benefit by waiting until 2015–2016 in bottle. W. Direct. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $25

86 Concha y Toro 2011 Serie Riberas Gran Reser-va Ribera del Tinguirica Malbec (Marchigue).

This hard-drilling, bullish Malbec is bright purple in color, with grapy, heady aromas. The palate is rubbery and grabby, with a shock of zesty acidity. Oversized, roasted black-fruit flavors finish with size, power and a grating feel. Excelsior Wines. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $18

85 Santa Ema 2011 Reserve Malbec (Maipo Val-ley). Intense, compact aromas feed into a

big, tannic palate with monster fruit that’s fairly herbal in character. This is a pounding wine that es-chews elegance for black-fruit power, and along the way it’s rubbery and a bit scratchy. TGIC Importers. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $15

CARMENÈRE

91 Concha y Toro 2011 Terrunyo Entre Cordilleras Peumo Vineyard Block 27 Carmenère (Peu-

mo). Electric purple in color, it conveys wiry aromas of wet dog, green herbs and berry fruits. The palate is loud and clacky, with a jumpy overall feel and an overriding sense of youth. Boysenberry, blueberry and blackberry flavors come with undertones of green herbs and licorice, while the finish is aggres-sive and moderately complex. Drink through 2019. Excelsior Wines. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $50

91 Errazuriz 2011 Kai Carmenère (Aconcagua Val-ley). Despite cool growing conditions in 2011,

this version of Kai shows raisiny, fully ripe aromas of loamy blackberry combined with graphite. A rich palate is grounded by good acidity, while flavors of lemony oak, olive, mocha and vanilla work alongside core berry. On the finish, chocolaty notes blend with residual black-fruit flavors. Drink through 2018. Vintus LLC. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $235

90 Montes 2011 Purple Angel Carmenère (Col-chagua Valley). Intense berry and spice

aromas convey a sense of purity that’s a bit generic.

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Although 2011 was a cool year by Chilean standards, this Carmenère-led blend is plump and voluminous in the mouth, but soft in the middle. Flavors of oaky cassis and herbs finish minty, green and chocolaty, with fresh acidity. Drink through 2018. TGIC Im-porters. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $80

87 Apaltagua 2009 Grial Carmenère (Apalta). Herbal, green aromas suggest bell pepper

and salad. This feels jagged, with zesty acidity and hard tannins. Flavors of herbal berry are pushed by racy acids, while the finish offers tobacco, green notes and a healthy-feeling fade. Global Vineyard Importers. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $75

87 Chilcas 2011 Reserva Carmenère (Maule Val-ley). Earthy, gritty berry aromas come with

an animal/leather element and notes of tar and tire rubber. In the mouth, this is generous and ripe as it holds onto the variety’s patented herbal character. Dark flavors of coffee and char blend into heat on the finish. Old Bridge Cellars. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $13

86 Carmen 2011 Gran Reserva Apalta Vineyard Carmenère (Colchagua Valley). Aromas of

pencil eraser, green herbs and briary berry fruits are oaky and pack some punch with this full, blocky wine. Flavors of blackberry are woody and slightly green, while the finish is peppery in flavor, spicy and shows some heat. Trinchero Family Estates. —M.S. abv: 14.3% Price: $15

86 Morandé 2011 Reserva Carmenère (Maipo Valley). Cherry, plum and loamy aromas are

a bit flat. This feels full and rubbery, with black-fruit flavors accented by herbal notes of thyme and oregano. The finish has fullness and body along with green echoes and olive flavors. Grupo Belen USA. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $14

86 Vistamar 2012 Sepia Reserva Carmenère (Maipo Valley). Rooty berry aromas blend

with varietally based herbal notes. This is juicy, raw in feel and pointed, with tangy, herbal flavors of red plum and currant. A peppery, dry, mildly toasty fin-ish is crisp in texture and herbal in flavor. Grupo Belen USA. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $12

85 François Lurton 2012 Hacienda Araucano Reserva Carmenère (Colchagua Valley). Hard

plum and berry aromas come with brushy herbal scents and a strong whiff of asphalt. The mouthfeel is forward and direct, with loud acidity. Blackberry, plum, herb and spice flavors dominate, while the finish is peppery and tastes of minty oak. Winesell-ers Ltd. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $11

85 Mancura 2011 Guardián Reserva Carmenère (Maipo Valley). Crusty black-fruit aromas

come with tarry notes, a strong whiff of green herbs and olive scents. This feels lively and fairly aggres-sive, with herbal-influenced flavors of raspberry and plum. Green herb, tobacco and earthy berry notes bolster the finish. MHW, Ltd. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $10

85 Miguel Torres 2012 Las Mulas Reserva Carme-nère (Central Valley). Roasted berry and a

strong blast of rubber and black olive aromas set up a round, bouncy palate with resiny oak and loamy, generic berry flavors touched up by green herbs and spice. This is warm, oaky and regular on the finish. Dreyfus, Ashby & Co. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $14

85 Santa Ema 2011 Barrel Select Carmenère (Cachapoal Valley). Electric purple in color,

this powerful wine opens with jammy, loud aro-mas of boysenberry and herbal qualities. Likewise, spunky berry flavors are herbal in nature. Minty oak and medicinal notes dominate a rubbery, long fin-ish. TGIC Importers. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $12

84 Alta Delta 2011 Carmenère (Curicó Valley). Spice and herbal berry aromas are true

to the variety. Hard acidity creates roughness and scratch on the palate, while chocolaty, spiced plum flavors finish fiery at first then with herbal red-fruit flavors as it fades. Kosher. AIKO INC. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $11

84 Anakena 2012 Enco Reserve Carmenère (Cachapoal Valley). Raw, grassy aromas are

cutting and green. This feels blocky and big, with chunky weight and minty, herbal flavors of spiced berry and overt oak. Resiny, woody flavors match the wine’s inherent green character and fiery finish. Evaton, Inc. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $14

84 Anakena 2011 Tama Vineyard Selection Car-menère (Cachapoal Valley). Blueberry aro-

mas come with an exotic note of cardamom. In the mouth, it feels flat, with rubbery tannins. Flavors of herbal berry and tomato leaf are briny and have a plastic-like taste, while herbal notes of oregano and tomato dominate the finish. Evaton, Inc. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $15

84 Caliterra 2011 Reserva Estate Grown Carme-nère (Colchagua Valley). Leafy berry aromas

suggest black pepper and asphalt. This has a rough mouthfeel with green tannins. Flavors of sawdust and hickory smoke sit on top of rubbery berry fruit notes, while the finish is buried in oak. Durango Im-ports, Inc. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $11

83 Quintay 2012 Clava Reserve Carmenère (Ra-pel Valley). This opens with aromas of wild

herbs and field greens. This wine is full but flat in feel, with green, minty flavors that overshadow the

minimal fruit. The finish is herbal and broad. Regal Wine Imports Inc. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $14

83 Santa Luz 2011 Reserva Encinos Carmenère (Colchagua Valley). Pushy aromas include

minty oak, shoe polish and foxy plum and berry. There’s a lot of forward oak, warmth and ripe fruit. The Country Vintner-Craft and Estate. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $13

83 Viña Requingua 2012 Puerto Viejo Single Vineyard Reserve Estate Bottled Carmenère

(Curicó Valley). Sawdust and lemony oak scents come alongside standard berry aromas. This is rough and acidic, while strong notes of rubber and raw oak complement herbal berry flavors. The finish shows hard tannins and oaky, green flavors. Puerto Viejo Wines. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $10

81 La Playa 2011 Block Selection Reserve Block N.13 Carmenère (Colchagua Valley). Cool con-

ditions in 2011 seem to have affected this wine. It’s stalky and stemmy smelling, with a scratchy feel and raw flavors of rhubarb and bell pepper covered with oak. Cabernet Corporation. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $10

81 PKNT 2012 Reserve Carmenère (Rapel Val-ley). Plastic, rubber and latex aromas domi-

nate the nose on this Carmenère. Tomatoey, cloying and tannic in the mouth, the palate tastes mostly of carob, oak and herbal berry fruits. Bronco Wine Company. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $11

80 Männle 2012 Reserva Carmenère (Itata Val-ley). Jammy aromas of candied red fruits

and raisin lead into the palate, with red-fruit flavors and a sticky, bitter finish. Red Puro Imports. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $15

SYRAH

92 Montes 2011 Folly Syrah (Colchagua Valley). Loamy, dark, rich aromas of pastry, black-

berry, blueberry and turned earth scream “ripe.” In the mouth, this is bulky but focused. Flavors of black fruits, chocolate, fig, herbs and spice fin-ish with notes of tobacco, raw oak, mint and bright acidity. Drink now through 2019. TGIC Importers. —M.S. abv: 15% Price: $90

91 Concha y Toro 2010 Terrunyo Costa Los Boldes Vineyard Block 3 Syrah (Casablanca Valley).

Cola, spice, wild berry, herb and graphite aromas are powerful and raring to go. This feels racy, juicy and tangy, with a mix of oak, herb, tomato, leather and savory berry flavors. A long, herbal, chocolaty finish is pure in feel and offers a fine conclusion to

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this cool-climate wine. Drink through 2018. Excel-sior Wines. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $50

90 Viña Maipo 2010 Limited Edition Syrah (Maipo Valley). Strong, dark aromas of

blackberry and cassis are tight and dense. This con-centrated, voluminous wine has tangy acidity and flavors of savory spice, chocolate and baked ber-ries. An herbal finish with olive and leathery flavors comes with a racy, tangy feel. Drink through 2018. Fetzer Vineyards. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $33

90 Von Siebenthal 2010 Carabantes Syrah (Aconcagua Valley). This small-production

Syrah from Aconcagua (250 cases) is rosy and rusty in color, with leathery, roasted, almost cheesy aro-mas of spicy, savory berry fruits. The palate shows tomatoey zest along with herbal, brambly, spicy fla-vors of plum and raspberry. On the finish, this is rooty, herbal and tomatoey in flavor, with a touch of chocolate and a foresty quality. Drink through 2019. Vine Connections. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $35

88 Casas del Bosque 2011 Pequeñas Produc-ciones Estate Bottled Syrah (Casablanca

Valley). Tomato, herb, rubber and olive aromas are gritty. This Syrah fits right into the house style for this grape variety; the palate is pointed, acidic and scouring, while flavors of lemon rind, currant, graphite, herbs and pepper finish zesty, with herb-al leftovers and lots of oak. American Importing. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $41

87 Miguel Torres 2011 Santa Digna Reserva Syrah (Central Valley). Tomato and earthy, soupy

notes run alongside blackberry and plum aromas on this mostly fruity, ripe wine. A solid grip and staunch tannins make for a firm mouthfeel, while rubbery, earthy flavors of blackberry and herbs fin-ish lightly bitter and dark. Dreyfus, Ashby & Co. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $14

86 Anakena 2011 Tama Vineyard Selection Syr-ah (Colchagua Valley). Quiet, generic berry

aromas come with a hint of sweet plastic on the nose. It feels snappy, crisp and fresh, with currant and raspberry flavors leading to a balanced, lightly oaked finish with mild herbal notes. Evaton, Inc. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $15

86 Chilcas 2011 Reserva Syrah (Maule Valley). Earthy raspberry aromas are basic and

friendly. This feels just juicy enough but not too pushy, with a medium body and a modicum of ele-gance. Flavors of baked plum, berry and loamy earth finish roasted but largely fruity. Old Bridge Cellars. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $13

85 Casas del Bosque 2011 Gran Reserva Estate Bottled Syrah (Casablanca Valley). Initially,

this is heavily stewed and herbal, with aromas of tomato sauce, basil and oregano along with sweet oak and graphite. In the mouth, it feels pinched and reduced. Similar to the bouquet, this tastes tomato-ey and a bit green, with heavy oak and char coming into the picture. American Importing. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $18

85 Vistamar 2011 Sepia Reserva Syrah (Cachapoal Valley). Black-fruit aromas are

matched and ultimately outweighed by oak-based chocolate and vanilla. This feels grabby and rub-bery, with oaky flavors of plum, raspberry and vanil-la. A creamy, resiny finish with chocolate and spice flavors wraps things up. Grupo Belen USA. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $12

PINOT NOIR

87 Anakena 2012 Enco Reserve Pinot Noir (Cachapoal Valley). Briary, snappy, almost

citric aromas set up a balanced palate with good body and acidic lift in this straightforward wine. Flavors of spiced, dry tomato, plum and earthiness finish with savory raspberry, spice and herbal hints. Evaton, Inc. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $14

87 Concha y Toro 2012 Marques de Casa Concha Pinot Noir (Limarí Valley). Smoky, toasty

aromas rest on top of muscular plum and red berry scents. This is a fuller-bodied, chunky wine with good acidity and resiny, oak-based dryness to the palate. Berry and plum flavors are round and woody, while the finish is slightly tomatoey. Excelsior Wines. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $18

87 Santa Carolina 2012 Reserva Pinot Noir (Cas-ablanca Valley). Dry, spicy, crisp aromas of

cool-climate red fruits come with a mild covering of sweet oak. This is a touch resiny on the palate, with woody, spicy flavors of plum and raspberry. An oaky, lightly herbal finish is juicy in feel. Carolina Wine Brands USA. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $12

86 Viu Manent 2012 Secreto Pinot Noir (Casa-blanca Valley). Spicy, racy red-plum and

cherry aromas come with a spot of herbs. This feels raw and lively, with zesty, hard acidity bolstering true but choppy flavors of raspberry and citrus. A peppery, drying finish is tight as nails. Baystate Wine & Spirits. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $15

84 Anakena 2012 Ona Special Reserve Pinot Noir (Leyda Valley). Hard oak and chemical

scents crowd out the limited fruit aromas in this Pi-not Noir that feels wiry and high in acid. Flavors of plum and currant are modest, while the finish is low

on flavor and high on tang and juicy acidity. Evaton, Inc. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $19

OTHER RED WINES

88 Meli 2012 Carignan (Maule Valley). Overtly fruity and fresh aromas of boysenberry

and cassis set up a juicy, racy, linear feeling palate with slightly shrill, acid-driven flavors of red cur-rant, plum and cherry. This wine isn’t much about complexity or nuance; it mostly conveys persistent fruit character and forwardness. Global Vineyard Importers. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $19

87 Santa Carolina 2011 Specialties Wild Spirit Mourvèdre (Cachapoal Valley). Fresh, ge-

neric berry aromas are inviting. This offers a blocky feeling, lightly oaked palate along with flavors of currant, red plum, butter and vanilla. A light-bodied, modestly oaky finish with easy tannins and lasting acidity keeps this afloat. Carolina Wine Brands USA. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $17

84 Santa Ema 2010 Reserve Merlot (Maipo Val-ley). Aromas that recall an ice cream sundae

with chocolate sauce, vanilla and syrupy fruit are confected. Ditto the mouthfeel, which is creamy and resiny. These aromas transfer to the flavor profile, which is sweet, chocolaty and finishes like a vanilla marshmallow. TGIC Importers. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $15

84 Viña Requingua 2011 Toro de Piedra Gran Reserva Single Vineyard Merlot (Curicó Val-

ley). Roasted, smoky initial aromas give way to olive and sassy red-fruit scents. This feels rubbery and grabby, with strong tannins. Rubbery, herbal fla-vors of plum and red berry finish racy and a bit tart. Puerto Viejo Wines. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $15

83 Anakena 2012 Tama Vineyard Selection Cari-gnan (Maule Valley). Earthy berry fruit aro-

mas are bundled in creamy, rubbery smelling oak. This is jumpy, with citric acidity creating a sharp but hollow mouthfeel. Flavors of oak, coconut and vanilla finish. Evaton, Inc. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $16

RED BLENDS

93 Errazuriz 2011 Don Maximiano Founder’s Reserva (Aconcagua Valley). Smooth, deep

aromas of berry, spice, earth and minerals are rolled into a pure, harmonious whole. This Cabernet Sau-vignon-led blend is racy, clean and layered on the tongue, while oaky flavors of vanilla and cream are backed by ribald blackberry and cassis. The elegant

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finish is potent and deep. Drink through 2020. Vin-tus LLC. Editors’ Choice. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $90

93 Viña el Principal 2010 Andetelmo (Maipo Valley). Bold berry, herb and olive aromas

seem typically Chilean. This Cabernet Sauvignon-based blend, with 17% Petit Verdot, is round but firm, with superb structure and potency. Flavors of baking spices, herbs and rooty black fruits fin-ish long, smooth and oaky. This is a sexy, polished, dark-tinted wine to drink through 2022. Regal Wine Imports Inc. —M.S. abv: 15% Price: $54

92 Kuyen 2011 Red (Maipo Valley). Year after year this Syrah-led blend excels. This ver-

sion is bright, clean and polished. Cherry and plum aromas are racy, with distinct minerality. Flavors of chocolate, leafy spice, earth and berry fruits finish with a final blast of vital berry flavors before fading in long, pleasurable fashion. Drink through 2020. Global Vineyard Importers. Editors’ Choice. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $40

92 Lapostolle 2011 Canto de Apalta (Rapel Val-ley). This Carmenère-led blend is heady,

meaty and inviting up front. In the mouth, clamping tannins are delivered amid serious structure. Fla-vors of berry, cassis, chocolate and spice lead to a lasting, pure finish that fades slowly and in phases. Best through 2019. Terlato Wines International. Editors’ Choice. —M.S. abv: 14.1% Price: $21

91 Emiliana 2011 Coyam (Colchagua Valley). Flo-ral, lightly herbal red-fruit aromas introduce

a concentrated palate with firm but not overpower-ing tannins and plenty of depth. Flavors of earthy, roasted berry and plum finish spicy, with notes of chocolate and olive. This is a six-grape blend led by Syrah and Carmenère, and it’s fully Chilean in its nose and flavor profile. Drink through 2019. Banfi Vintners. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $34

91 Koyle 2010 Auma Los Lingues (Colchagua Val-ley). This five-grape blend is ripe, smooth,

loamy and rich on the nose, with aromas of pas-try, syrupy berry and cassis. A flush, oaky palate has just enough acidity to maintain its poise, while creamy oak and vanilla flavors shadow mellow black plum and cassis. On the finish, oak hangs around and creates a coffee note. Drink this mouthfilling, friendly and generous wine through 2017. Quintes-sential Wines. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $100

91 Matetic 2011 Corralillo Winemaker’s Blend (San Antonio). Meaty, smoky aromas include

whiffs of black coffee, tire rubber and blackberry. A tight, rubbery palate shows full but elastic tan-nins along with blackberry and oaky flavors of va-nilla and wood resin. Ripe and muscular, the blend

shows strong barrel influences. Drink through 2019. Quintessential Wines. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $30

91 Montes 2007 Taita Wisdom in Wine Marchigue Vineyard (Colchagua Valley). This Cabernet-

led blend is Montes’ new icon wine from Marchigue in the Colchagua Valley. It is ripe, warm, leathery and earthy, with aromas of aged cheese, tobacco, raisin and cedar. The mouth is hefty and bold, with a mix of coffee and herbal flavors as well as cassis and blackberry. The finish is heavy and a bit raisiny, with depth and density. Drink now through 2015. TGIC Importers. —M.S. abv: 15% Price: $300

91 Santa Alicia 2010 Millantu (Maipo Valley). For full review see page 5.

abv: 14.5% Price: $30

91 Santa Carolina 2010 VSC (Cachapoal Valley). This mix of Petit Verdot and four other red

grapes is dark, slightly raisiny and jammy on the nose. In the mouth, it is ripe and ripped, with depth and density along with soft tannins. Flavors of prune, baked berry, licorice and peppery spice fin-ish with overt herb, tobacco and chocolaty flavors. Drink this powerful, weighty blend through 2018. Carolina Wine Brands USA. —M.S. abv: 14.7% Price: $40

91 Siegel 2011 Gran Crucero Limited Edition (Col-chagua Valley). Herbal, briary berry aromas

are minty and suggestive of olive. The mouthfeel is plump and juicy, while herbal blackberry and black currant flavors finish with a blast of toast and mint. This blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Carmenère and Syrah is quintessentially Chilean in aromas, flavors and intensity. Drink through 2020. Kysela Père et Fils. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $29

91 Valle Secreto 2011 Private Syrah-Cabernet Sauvignon-Carmenere (Cachapoal Valley).

Spicy, mildly herbal aromas of cassis and red-berry fruits feed into a racy, fresh palate with vital acidity and excellent overall balance. Flavors of spice and berry fruits are persistent, while the finish is deep and feels right. This blend of Syrah, Cabernet and Carmenère is entirely pleasing. Drink through 2018. AWDirect. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $30

91 Viña Requingua 2009 Laku Hijo del Sol The Final Blend (Curicó Valley). Concentrated

black-fruit aromas come with notes of rubber, tree bark and rooty berry fruits. A round mouthfeel with depth and density features blackberry, spice, mo-cha, coffee and chocolate flavors; herbal notes, olive flavors and a chewy texture characterize the finish. Drink through 2018. Puerto Viejo Wines. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $60

90 Altaïr 2010 Red (Cachapoal Valley). Ini-tial aromas of latex and iodine give way

to herbal cassis, blackberry and olive scents. This is full, chunky, broad and balanced in the mouth, with woodsy flavors of olive, herbal berry and hard spices. Roasted berry and licorice flavors ride prom-inently on the finish. Drink through 2019. T. Edward Wines Ltd. —M.S. abv: NA Price: $80

90 Château Los Boldos 2011 Amalia (Cachapoal Valley). Concentrated but pure aromas of

blackberry and black plum are fruity as can be. This blend of Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon and Carmenère is voluminous and aggressive in the mouth. Flavors of black fruits come with ample chocolate, herb and pepper accents. A dark, blackened finish confirms the wine’s ripeness. Best after 2015. Evaton, Inc. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $30

90 Luis Felipe Edwards 2011 LFE 900 Single Vineyard (Colchagua Valley). Although this

Syrah-led blend is earthy, roasted and slightly rus-tic-smelling with dried berry aromas, it is lively in the mouth, with good acidity. Flavors of cherry, cas-sis and plum finish round and healthy, with weight and concentration but also lift. Drink through 2020. Domaine Select Wine Estates. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $35

90 Viña Bisquertt 2010 Q Clay Syrah-Cabernet Sauvignon (Colchagua Valley). Black-fruit

aromas of cassis and berry come with overt oaky notes that are creamy and lactic at first and inte-grate better with airing. The palate on this Syrah-led blend (with 25% Cabernet Sauvignon) is rich, ripe and chunky. Flavors of hickory and vanilla an-nounce plenty of oak, while roasted berry, smoke and spice flavors finish ripe, dark and husky. Drink through 2017. Prestige Wine Group. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $40

89 Altaïr 2010 Sideral (Rapel Valley). Intense, dense aromas of olive, rubber, smoky berry

and herbal red fruits filter into a lumbering palate with weight and thickness. Flavors of lemony oak, cured meat, herbal berry fruits and loam finish long and spicy, with power and modest green influences. Drink through 2018. T. Edward Wines Ltd. —M.S. abv: NA Price: $25

89 Garcia Schwaderer 2010 Facundo (Chile). Firm, pinched aromas of rubbery berry and

red fruits feed into a narrow, tomatoey palate with crisp, drawing acidity and tannins. This Carignan-led blend of five grapes is herbal and briny tasting, with tomato, cassis and red-berry flavors. Length, balance and drive push an herbal finish to a good ending. Vine Connections. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $35

89 Polkura 2011 GSM+T (Marchigue). GSM means Grenache, Syrah and Mourvèdre,

while the T stands for Tempranillo. On the nose, it’s spicy and a touch stalky and roasted. The mouth-feel is full and balanced, while flavors of baked plum

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38 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | AUGUST 2014

cassis, cocoa and tea finish mellow, with mild tan-nins. Craveiro Importers. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $30

89 Rio Alto 2010 Private Collection (Aconcagua Valley). Road tar, hard spice, fennel and

peppery red-berry aromas define the nose on this blend of Syrah, Cab Sauvignon and Carmenère. The mouthfeel is round, full and solid, while notes of herbs, spice and chocolate rest on top of earthy berry flavors. A long, oaky, lightly herbal finish is hot but sturdy. WTWM Imports. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $30

89 Santa Ema 2010 Catalina (Maipo Valley). Loamy, soft aromas of plum and berry don’t

show much punch. In the mouth, this is mostly fresh, with a solid feel. Flavors of plum, raspberry, red currant and herbal notes skew toward red, while a punchy, bright finish is upbeat. This is 75% Cab-ernet Sauvignon, 18% Carmenère and 7% Cabernet Franc. TGIC Importers. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $50

89 Von Siebenthal 2010 Parcela #7 Gran Reser-va (Aconcagua Valley). Roasted, herbal aro-

mas of stewed tomato, stalky plum and olive are typically Chilean. A blend of 40% Cabernet Sauvi-gnon, 31% Petit Verdot, 16% Merlot and 13% Cab-ernet Franc, this is drawing on the palate but not overly severe in feel. Flavors of leafy red fruits, wild herbs and olive finish with an oaky covering. Drink through 2018. Vine Connections. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $25

88 Bodega Volcanes de Chile 2010 Parinacota Limited Edition (Maule Valley). This Syrah-

led blend (with Carignan) hails from old vineyards in Maule. Leather, rubber, compost and earthy cher-ry aromas set up a palate with laser-beam acidity and shearing crispness. Flavors of red fruits, spice and herbal notes finish oaky and a bit raw, but ex-ceedingly fresh. Drink through 2018. Broadbent Se-lections, Inc. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $30

88 Leyendas de Familia 2011 Noche de Luna (Maule Valley). Berry and mild leafy aro-

mas blend well on a controlled, earthy nose. This is stocky in feel, with good balance and roasted, herbal flavors of berry fruits. Pasty oak, mild green notes and a solid mouthfeel define the finish on this blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec, Carmenère and Cabernet Franc. AIKO INC. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $26

88 Siegel 2010 Gran Crucero Limited Edition (Colchagua Valley). Warm, loamy, baked

berry and cherry scents are the lead aromas on this blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Carmenère and Syrah that also brings a green character into play. Hard acidity makes for a rough palate, while heavy oaking has created flavors of cheese and vanilla as well as

spiced berry. Edgy tannins, leftover grit and green notes conclude things. Kysela Père et Fils. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $29

88 Viña Bisquertt 2011 Q Clay Syrah-Cabernet Sauvignon (Colchagua Valley). This ripe

blend of 75% Syrah and 25% Cabernet Sauvignon is raisiny and jammy on the nose, with a shot of prune. Given those aromas, it’s no shock that the mouthfeel is jammy and rubbery. Flavors of spiced berry are earthy and roasted in nature, while the finish is baked in flavor, with toasty oak and depth. Prestige Wine Group. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $40

86 Pargua 2009 Anka (Maipo Valley). This Cabernet-led blend from a hot vintage is

stewy and flat on the nose. A soupy-feeling palate is low on structure, while flavors of baked berry, fig and prune are soft and ripe. A loamy, sticky, stewy finish confirms that this wine, while good, is a bit too ripe and flacid. Global Vineyard Importers. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $22

84 Santa Ema 2010 Amplus One (Peumo). This blend of Carmenère, Syrah and Carignan

opens with raw, green aromas of herbaceous red-berry fruits and beets. The palate feels narrow and high in acid, while flavors of green herbs, plum and currant are oaky and struggle to mesh. It finishes herbal and tangy. TGIC Importers. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $22

SWEET WINES

92 Erasmo 2009 Late Harvest Torontel (Maule Valley). For full review see page 4. Editors’

Choice. abv: 12.5% Price: $40/375 ml

88 Viña Requingua 2012 Toro de Piedra Late Harvest Gran Reserva Sauvignon Blanc-

Semillon (Curicó Valley). Honeyed, botrytis aromas come with notes of peach, nectarine and cinnamon. This is lifted but a touch sticky on the palate, with flavors of honey, spice and white pepper. All these flavors carry onto the finish, which quickly loses its steam. Puerto Viejo Wines. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $12

82 Montes 2012 Late Harvest Botrytised Grapes Gewürztraminer (Curicó Valley). This wine is

flat and capped on the nose. On the palate, it’s an-gular and narrow, with cidery flavors and little to no complexity. TGIC Importers. —M.S. abv: 12% Price: $23

PORTUGALWHITE WINES

VINHO VERDE

91 Wines & Winemakers 2013 Lua Cheia em Vinhas Velhas Nostalgia Alvarinho (Vinho

Verde). Still young, this wine brings out the ripe and creamy side of Alvarinho. Its citrus character is prominent along with a strong mineral texture. Weight from the skin contact during fermentation has produced a dense structure. Keep this wine un-til 2015. Wine Without Borders. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $22

90 Casal Paço Padreiro 2013 Aphros Ten (Vinho Verde). Fragrant and fruity, this very fresh

wine has a strong mineral texture. The freshness gives way to a deeper, rich sense that brings out a more creamy character. It’s ripe and rich at the end. Michael Skurnik Wines. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 10% Price: $7

90 Wines & Winemakers 2013 Maria Papoila Escolha (Vinho Verde). Intense and crisp,

it shows bright fruits and some weight as well. A touch of yellow fruits give the grapefruit a warm-er character and good depth of flavor. It’s a Vinho Verde for cooler days, ripe and ready for food. Iberia Wine & Spirits LLC. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. abv: 11.5% Price: $18

89 Casal Paço Padreiro 2013 Aphros Aether (Vinho Verde). A delicious tight, crisp and

mineral wine that has intense acidity as well as a nervy citrus character. Shots of green cut through the wine give freshness as well as a bright, light af-tertaste. Michael Skurnik Wines. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 12% Price: $11

89 Quintas de Melgaco 2012 QM Vinhas Velhas Alvarinho (Vinho Verde). The extra year in

bottle has given this ripe and creamy wine both an aromatic character and a full-bodied, smooth tex-ture. It’s delicious to drink now, ripe and mature. M Imports, LLC. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $45

88 Casal Paço Padreiro 2013 Aphros Loureiro (Vinho Verde). Fresh and creamy, it displays

fine acidity. It has an attractive lemon character while the Loureiro gives it weight and richness. The aftertaste brings out a more tropical fruit fla-vor. Drink now–2015. Michael Skurnik Wines. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 11.5% Price: $9

88 Quintas de Melgaco 2013 Torre de Menagem Escolha (Vinho Verde). A dry Vinho Verde

that has crisp citrus as well as riper yellow fruits. A blend of Alvarinho with Trajadura, it comes from the north of Vinho Verde. It’s perfumed, fresh and

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crisp while showing a full texture. Drink starting in late 2014. M Imports, LLC. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 12% Price: $12

87 Ideal Drinks 2013 Eminência Loureiro (Vinho Verde). Almonds and ripe yellow fruits com-

bine in this surprisingly warm Vinho Verde. It has weight and richness as well as an immediately at-tractive fruity style. Easy to drink now, with a touch of caramel at the end. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $20

87 Quintas de Melgaco 2013 Lagar Alvarinho (Vinho Verde). Light and fruity, this is a

crisply citrus wine, soft and fresh. Grapefruit and apricots are both there, showing the crisp and the rich side to this immediately attractive wine. Eco-valley. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $15

85 Adega Cooperativa Ponte de Barca 2013 Hera (Vinho Verde). This well-balanced wine is

rich, just off dry and with a mineral texture. Plenty of freshness with a crisp aftertaste balances the softer side of the wine. It’s for immediate drinking. M Imports, LLC. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 10% Price: $9

85 Aveleda 2013 Vinho Verde. Lightly sweet, this is a refreshing, fruity wine. It’s a great

apéritif for the summer with its ripe lemon and grapefruit that are given a push by the softer green plum fruits. Drink now. Aveleda Imports. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 10% Price: $9

85 Aveleda 2013 Casal Garcia Branco (Vinho Verde). For full review see page 8. Best Buy.

abv: 10% Price: $8

85 J. Portugal Ramos 2013 Lima Loureiro (Vinho Verde). Named after Lima Valley, which is

the home of the Loureiro grape, this is a lively fresh, dry wine. The floral character makes it instantly at-tractive, ready to drink now. Winebow. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 11.5% Price: $9

85 Quinta da Calçada 2013 Portal da Calçada (Vinho Verde). A typically fruity wine with

a light prickle on the tongue and the crispest cit-rus flavors. The wine is light, bright, very clean and fragrant. Ready to drink. International Vines, Inc. —R.V. abv: 11.5% Price: $14

85 Wines & Winemakers 2013 Azul Portugal Escolha (Vinho Verde). Surprisingly soft,

it has a warm, rich feel and only light acidity. It is rounded, with flavors of pink grapefruits and green plums, and is ready to drink. Iberia Wine & Spirits LLC. —R.V. abv: 11% Price: $11

85 Wines & Winemakers 2013 Salsus (Vinho Verde). The merest prickle on the tongue

adds to the freshness of this crisp, clean, lightly sweet wine. Very fruity, it conveys apples and cit-rus, with a soft, fragrant aftertaste. Iberia Wine & Spirits LLC. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 9.5% Price: $9

84 Borges 2013 Gatão Branco (Vinho Verde). With its light prickle, this is a bright, fresh

and fruity wine. It integrates sweetness into a crisp citrus character that makes it lively and refreshing. For summer drinking. Dionysos Imports Inc. —R.V. abv: 9% Price: $NA

84 Ideal Drinks 2013 Royal Palmeira Loureiro (Vinho Verde). A tight and textured wine

that has layers of citrus as well as fresh apples. A bitter edge of sulphur spoils this otherwise lightly fruity wine. —R.V. abv: 12% Price: $13

84 Quintas de Melgaco 2013 Terra Antiga (Vinho Verde). A light prickle adds to the fresh, cit-

rus character. It is bright, although there is an un-balanced confected sweetness that is less attractive. Drink now. Ecovalley. —R.V. abv: 11% Price: $9

83 Adega Cooperativa Ponte de Barca 2013 Ela Branco (Vinho Verde). A sweet wine that has

a candy shop confected taste. It does have acidity along with a touch of citrus although the sherbet aftertaste is off-putting. Touchstone Wines. —R.V. abv: 10% Price: $9

TRÁS-OS-MONTES

88 Quinta do Sobreiró de Cima 2011 Branco Reserva (Trás-os-Montes). Lightly honeyed

in flavor, the wine has touches of wood as well as a lemon crispness. It’s attractive, fruity, ready to drink, just retaining a light toastiness. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA

85 Quinta do Sobreiró de Cima 2012 Santa Valha Branco (Trás-os-Montes). Lemon flavored,

this light and fruity wine has a hint of minerality, followed by a crisp, fresh aftertaste. It’s ready to drink. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $NA

84 Quinta do Sobreiró de Cima 2012 Santa Valha Fresh (Trás-os-Montes). The wine has acid-

ity and a rustic flavor that gives character. With a lemon streak, it is a fruity, juicy wine, always with an earthy aftertaste. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $NA

DOURO

90 Quinta de Porrais 2011 Reserva Branco (Dou-ro). A touch of wood goes well with the ripe

fruit. It is full in the mouth, rich and needing to age another few months. Yellow fruits and a ripe texture give an imposing presence. Drink from the end of 2014. Value Vines LLC. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $13

90 Wines & Winemakers 2012 Lua Cheia em Vinhas Velhas Secretum (Douro). This is

heavily wood dominated. Toast and juice come from wood as much as fruit at this stage. Behind this, generous yellow fruits and a ripe, full-bodied char-acter will lead to a ripe and complex wine. It needs aging, so don’t drink before 2016. Wine Without Borders. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $NA

89 Duorum 2013 Tons de Duorum Branco (Dou-ro). While there’s a definite mineral texture

behind this wine, the foreground is about crisp her-baceousness, bright acidity and a tangy texture. It’s young at the moment, needing until 2015 to broad-en out and bring out its richer side. Winebow. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 12% Price: $12

89 Quinta de Porrais 2012 Reserva Branco (Douro). Wood aging gives this ripe wine

its toasty character. This texture is balanced by rich peach and apricot fruits, rounded and fruity. Old vines bring an extra concentration to this full, generous wine. Drink from 2016. Value Vines LLC. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $18

88 Lavradores de Feitoria 2012 Três Bagos Bran-co (Douro). With soft acidity, this is already

an attractive, warmly white wine. Orange and tangy citrus flavors are balanced by a light touch of wood aging that gives spice. It needs a few more months, so drink from the end of 2014. Polaner Selections. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $15

88 Quinta Dona Matilde 2011 Dona Matilde Branco (Douro). Rich and perfumed, this

is a full, ripe and creamy wine. It’s full of almonds and peaches that are cut with acidity. It’s dry and ready to drink, and should pair well with a variety of foods. Vin de Terra Imports, Inc. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $NA

87 Lavradores de Feitoria 2013 Branco (Douro). Crisp, lemon fresh and fruity, this is an at-

tractive wine to drink now. It has some richness from the mineral texture and the tangy orange edge. The aftertaste continues the fruity theme. Polaner Selections. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $12

87 Wines & Winemakers 2013 Andreza Códega do Larinho (Douro). An old and rarely plant-

ed vine in the Douro, Códega do Larinho has pro-duced a rich, lightly perfumed wine. With plenty of acidity and citrus, it is both ripe and refreshing. It

BUYINGGUIDE

40 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | AUGUST 2014

could benefit from a few months in bottle; drink af-ter 2015. Iberia Wine & Spirits LLC. —R.V. abv: 12% Price: $18

86 C. da Silva 2011 Dalva Reserva Branco (Dou-ro). The wood aging of this wine has given a

lightly oxidized character. It is rich and creamy with toasty acidity as well as yellow fruits. Drink now. Jack Poust & Co., Inc. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $7

86 Quinta de Porrais 2012 Parcelas (Douro). Perfumed and exotic, the wine has a touch

of lychee as well as fresh acidity, both given lift by a lemon zest flavor. With a crisp aftertaste, it’s a lively wine for drinking now. Value Vines LLC. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $13

DÃO

91 Fontes da Cunha 2011 Munda Encruzado (Dão). Ripe and fruity, this is a full-bodied,

intense wine. It has citrus acidity as well as more tropical fruits, laden with wood. The whole is much more than the sum of the parts, giving a full, ripe and complex wine that will age. Tri-Vin Imports. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $16

90 Magnum Vinhos 2012 Ribeiro Santo (Dão). Deliciously ripe as well as fruity, this is an

opulent wine. It has a fine mineral texture as well as a lemon flavor that is given richness by mango and pineapple fruits. A touch of toastiness adds com-plexity. Grape Moments. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA

89 Fontes da Cunha 2012 Mondeco (Dão). This wine needs time to open out. It then brings

some wood as well as apricot and spicy flavors. Acidity adds some freshness, although this wine is more about a rich, textured character. It could age until early 2015. —R.V. abv: 12% Price: $NA

87 Julia Kemper Wines 2011 Julia Kemper Branco Reserva (Dão). A golden-colored wine, it’s

perfumed and rich. The wood aging shows strongly along with the delicious, fragrant fruits. Toasty and ripe, the wine is ready to drink. The House Of Bur-gundy. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $22

LISBOA

90 Casa Santos Lima 2012 CSL Reserva (Lis-boa). Wood aging shows strongly through-

out this wine. With its blend of Viosinho, Encru-zado with a dash of Chardonnay, it has weight and richness. A creamy character comes from the wood and the ripe yellow fruits are developing well. Hold to 2015. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $NA

88 DFJ Vinhos 2013 Grand’Arte Chardonnay (Lisboa). This full-bodied wine is rich with

tropical fruit as well as a more citrus character. It’s ripe, packed with apples, apricots and then cut with acidity. There is a cool, fresh aftertaste. Dionysos Imports Inc. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $11

88 Félix Rocha 2012 Quinta de São Cristóvão (Lisboa). A fresh, fruity lemon and pink

grapefruit flavored wine, this is brightly full of acid-ity; a crisp and mineral texture creates a refreshing character. Ready to drink. Narragansett Bay Group. —R.V. abv: 12% Price: $NA

87 Companhia das Quintas 2013 Pancas Branco (Lisboa). A pale yellow-colored wine, it’s full

of ripe white peach, melon and plums. It’s rich but also shows bright acidity and a touch of citrus. It’s an easy wine to drink now–2016. Aidil Wines/Old World Import. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $12

87 DFJ Vinhos 2013 DFJ Alvarinho-Chardonnay (Lisboa). The Chardonnay and Alvarinho

complement each other well, the one bringing a rounded texture, the other adding a fresh and min-eral character. Together, they produce a refresh-ing, ripe wine that has attractive citrus and yellow fruits. Drink from 2015. Dionysos Imports Inc. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $11

87 DFJ Vinhos 2013 Point West (Lisboa). Al-varinho and Chardonnay are the chosen

grapes for this blend. As its name suggests, a salty taste from the ocean spices up the ripe yellow and green plum fruits. It’s soft with a fine balance of acidity and a soft honey touch at the end. Dionysos Imports Inc. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 12% Price: $9

86 DFJ Vinhos 2013 Coreto Branco (Lisboa). Smooth and light, it’s all about fruitiness,

crisp apples and a squeeze of lemon juice that perks up the soft texture. It’s fresh and ready to drink. Dionysos Imports Inc. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 11.5% Price: $7

86 DFJ Vinhos 2013 Storks Landing (Lisboa). In a reference to the storks who build nests

in the chimneys of the Eiffel-designed DFJ winery, Storks Landing shows bright acidity, layers of citrus plus a touch of more exotic pineapple. A blend of Fernão Pires and Chardonnay, it’s fresh and light in the mouth, mineral and crisp at the end. Dionysos Imports Inc. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 11.5% Price: $8

85 Companhia das Quintas 2013 Forgotten Field (Lisboa). A blend of Chardonnay with

Arinto and Vital, this is a simple, fruity and fragrant wine. It has lively acidity, a crisp, mineral texture

and a ripe, full feel at the end. Drink through 2015. Aidil Wines/Old World Import. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $10

85 Félix Rocha 2012 Sauvignon Blanc and Arinto (Lisboa). This herbaceous wine has a grassy

character that is crispened with gooseberry and lemon grass flavors. Bright and very fresh, it’s ready to drink now. Narragansett Bay Group. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $NA

84 DFJ Vinhos 2013 Casa do Lago Branco (Lis-boa). Lightly spicy, this is a soft, off-dry

wine. Fresh citrus and apple fruit flavors are per-fumed and fruity in the mouth. Not for any aging, it’s already a rounded, soft, still fruity wine. Dio-nysos Imports Inc. —R.V. abv: 12% Price: $9

84 DFJ Vinhos 2013 Portada Winemaker’s Selec-tion Branco (Lisboa). An attractively fruity

wine that’s easy to drink and fresh. Lemon and ap-ples give a crisp edge, followed by a zesty, fragrant character. Drink this light wine now. Luiz’s Grocery And Liquors. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 11.5% Price: $8

83 Casa Santos Lima 2013 CSL Arinto (Lisboa). The wine is soft, lightly fruity with acidity

that is balanced. It’s unfocused wine and lacks char-acter. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $NA

TEJO

92 Quinta da Alorna 2012 Marquesa de Alorna Reserva Branco (Tejo). Richly wood-aged,

this is a serious white wine. With spice and light toast allied to the ripe tropical and yellow fruits, it needs aging. Juicy acidity cuts through the full body, giving a lift of citrus to the rounded, opulent fruiti-ness. Drink from 2016. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

91 Adega Cooperativa do Cartaxo 2012 Bridão Reserva (Tejo). The wood shows strongly on

this still young wine. It has a rich, generous feel, packed with peach and pineapple fruits as well as a fine texture. Wait to drink this fine food wine until 2015. Wine Enterprises LLC. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $12

91 Wines & Winemakers 2013 Companhia das Lezírias Tyto Alba (Tejo). A perfumed wine,

it has a rich, rounded character packed with yellow fruit. Layers of wood add complexity and density. The wine is named for the white owl found in the nature reserve close to the vineyards. Iberia Wine & Spirits LLC. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $16

90 Pinhal da Torre 2013 Quinta do Alqueve Tradicional (Tejo). White peach aromas give

a warm feeling. It has fine acidity as well, bursting

WINEMAG.COM | 41

with fruit and with just a touch of toast. It’s ready to drink but will benefit by holding until 2015 in bottle. Robert Kacher Selections. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $10

88 Caves Velhas 2013 Cabeça de Toiro Reserva (Tejo). This is a lively, fruity wine, crisp as

can be, and finely textured. Drink now for its bright, fresh character. Intercontinental Packaging. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $13

88 Fiuza 2013 Alvarinho (Tejo). A lemon-flavored wine that is crisp and fruity. It is

packed with lively ripe fruit flavors, pure juiciness and freshness. Drink now. Gabriella Importers Inc. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $NA

88 Quinta da Alorna 2013 Verdelho (Tejo). Soft and fruity, this is an attractively textured

wine. It has young fruitiness and needs time to fill out and reveal the structure and the minerality that are there. Drink from the end of 2014. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

88 Quinta do Casal Monteiro 2013 Capoeira Branco (Tejo). Refreshing and crisp, this is

a light, citrus-flavored wine. Great shots of acidity course through the wine to give an intensely fresh and fragrant aftertaste. Iberian Wine Importers. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $12

88 Wines & Winemakers 2013 Azul Portugal (Tejo). A ripe and creamy blend of Fernão

Pires and Arinto, this is both fresh and richly tex-tured. It has weight as well as a smooth texture, full in the mouth while also tangy. Already delicious, it will also age, so drink until 2018. Wine Without Borders. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $11

87 Adega Cooperativa do Cartaxo 2012 Bridão Classico (Tejo). A rounded, wood-aged wine

with great ripe fruits, pineapple and peach flavors. It’s rich, lightly toasty and finely textured. It could age more, so drink from the end of 2014. Wine En-terprises LLC. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $NA

87 Casal do Conde 2013 Quinta da Arrandosa Moscatel Graúdo (Tejo). A perfumed wine

with crisp acidity and light acidity. Lemon and pear fruit are allied with an intensely tangy orange zest character. Lively and fresh, it is ready to drink now. Value Vines LLC. —R.V. abv: 12% Price: $13

87 Falua 2013 Conde de Vimioso Colheita Se-lectionada (Tejo). Floral and fresh, this

deliciously fragrant wine bursts with apricots and pineapple as well as lemon zest. Crisp and just plain

attractive, it can be drunk now. Aidil Wines/Old World Import. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $9

87 Quinta da Alorna 2013 Arinto (Tejo). Very perfumed, it has a rounded character and

lightly citrus fruits. There are hints of pineapple as well as pear flavors. It does need to age, so drink from the end of 2014. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

87 Quinta da Lagoalva de Cima 2013 Espiríto La-goalva (Tejo). All fresh citrus fruits, this is a

bright, light wine. It does have some mineral texture to give it interest, but the fruitiness really tells the tale. Winebow. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $11

87 Quinta do Casal Monteiro 2013 Terra de Tou-ros Arinto (Tejo). Ripe and rounded, this

pineapple and apple flavored wine is fruity, very fresh, with a light touch of toastiness. This is al-ready a delicious, full wine, backed by some weight. Iberian Wine Importers. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $8

86 Casal do Conde 2013 Alvarinho (Tejo). Bright citrus fruits are crisp and attractive. Lightly

textured wine, it’s full of lively acidity with just a touch of weight. Value Vines LLC. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $13

86 Casal do Conde 2013 Viognier (Tejo). Yellow fruits and fresh aromas characterize this at-

tractive, fresh wine. With a touch of citrus to add to the bright character, it’s a fruity wine that can be drunk now–2017. Value Vines LLC. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $13

86 Quinta da Alorna 2013 Portal da Aguia (Tejo). Attractively fruity, this is a crisp,

citrus and green plum flavored wine. The tight texture gives a fresh character that also has some minerality. Lively and bright at the end. Regal Wine Imports Inc. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $10

86 Wines & Winemakers 2012 Companhia das Lezírias Catapereiro Escolha Branco (Tejo).

This blend of Sauvignon Blanc and Fernão Pires is aromatic and ripe. Its fruitiness is tropical, with pineapple as well as apricot flavors. It’s softly tex-tured and ready to drink. Iberia Wine & Spirits LLC. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $15

85 Falua 2013 Tagus Creek Branco (Tejo). Char-donnay and the local Fernão Pires give

a broad and soft wine. It’s lightly perfumed and equally lightly textured. Gentle and ready to drink, it’s smooth and rounded at the end, perfect as an apéritif. Aidil Wines/Old World Import. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $9

85 Terra Silvestre 2013 Arinto (Tejo). This tex-tured, perfumed wine has citrus and apple

fruits that are dominated by strong perfumes as well as fresh acidity. It needs until late 2014 to age. Vinamericas Selections. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $15

84 Casal do Conde 2013 Branco (Tejo). This blend of Sauvignon Blanc and Arinto is

bright and herbaceous. There is also a more tropical character with pineapple and mango adding their riper notes. The end has a mineral edge. The wine will improve by holding until 2015 in bottle. Value Vines LLC. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $13

84 Monte Largo 2013 Branco (Tejo). Aromatic with white flowers, it’s rounded, soft and

gentle. It misses out on acidity, giving the wine a fat feel. Drink now. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA

84 Quinta do Casal Branco 2013 Branco (Tejo). Still very young, this wine is full of acidity,

lemon flavors and with a candy shop character. The wine needs to time to settle down. Tri-Vin Imports. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $10

83 Quinta da Lapa 2012 Branco (Tejo). Made with a blend of white and red grapes that are

made in the style of a white wine, this is a curios-ity. It has a meaty character that sits strangely. Aidil Wines/Old World Import. —R.V. abv: 12% Price: $NA

PENÍNSULA DE SETÚBAL

90 Herdade da Comporta 2012 Parus Antão Vaz (Península de Setúbal). This rich, spicy

wine holds beautiful lemon fruit flavors that cut the natural ripeness. A tangy texture gains extra dimen-sion from the wood aging. Drink now, but the wine will age well to 2015. Value Vines LLC. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $30

86 Wines & Winemakers 2013 Casa Ermelinda Freitas Monte de Baía Branco (Península de

Setúbal). This blend of Fernão Pires and Arinto is soft, fresh and fruity. Juicy green plums, citrus and bright acidity all give a lively character. A tangy tex-ture needs several months aging. It will be best at the end of the 2014. Wine Without Borders. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $11

85 Herdade da Comporta 2013 Comporta (Península de Setúbal). Crisply fruity, this

light, bright wine is designed for immediate drink-ing with its acidity, lemon fruits and lightly herba-ceous touch. Value Vines LLC. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $22

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42 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | AUGUST 2014

84 Herdade da Comporta 2013 Chão das Rolas (Península de Setúbal). A soft and fruity

wine that has fresh acidity and a light lemon touch. The wine is broad, neutral in character and ready to drink. Value Vines LLC. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $11

84 José Maria da Fonseca 2013 Periquita White (Península de Setúbal). A soft and easy

white wine that has a lightly perfumed touch from the Moscatel in the blend. Acidity cuts the pear and peach flavors to give a fresh lift at the end. Palm Bay International. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $11

ALENTEJO

90 Ribafreixo 2013 Gáudio Alvarinho (Alen-tejo). Lightly toasty in character, this is a

rich and creamy wine. Here the Alvarinho, far south of its home territory, shows a warm, ripe side with a tropical and yellow fruit character. The aftertaste is full and fruity. Sommelier Imports. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

89 Ribafreixo 2013 Pato Frio Selecção (Alen-tejo). Crisp and fruity, this is an immedi-

ately attractive wine with its lemon and clementine fruitiness. It has richness as well as freshness, mak-ing it full in the mouth and ripe. It’s ready to drink. Sommelier Imports. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $NA

86 Ribafreixo 2013 Gáudio Verdelho (Alentejo). The wine is perfumed, fruity and ripe. A

touch of spice from the fruit gives an exotic edge to the rounded, ripe and juicy flavors. It is full-bodied while still retaining a fresh edge. Sommelier Im-ports. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $NA

86 Ribafreixo 2013 Pato Frio Antão Vaz (Alente-jo). Bright and crisp, this fruity wine shows

touches of peach and pear. Acidity creates a lively wine that still has a feeling of richness. Wait until 2015 for it to open up. Sommelier Imports. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $NA

85 Herdade do Perdigão 2013 Villa Romanu (Alentejo). Tight and textured, this is a

mineral structured wine. Green fruits and acidity keep the wine fresh. The aftertaste is flatter, not bringing out enough fruit. Luiz’s Grocery And Li-quors. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $9

ALENTEJANO

90 Herdade da Malhadinha Nova 2012 Mal-hadinha Branco (Alentejano). An opulently

ripe, wood-aged wine that’s both fruity and tex-tured. It has weight, richness, a lightly mineral tex-ture with crisp apple and green plum flavors. Give

this attractive while serious wine until the end of 2014. Tri-Vin Imports. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $35

89 Henrique José de La Puente Sancho Uva 2013 Terras d’Uva (Alentejano). A balanced wine,

it shows great acidity as well as rich yellow and green fruits. It’s full-bodied without being heavy. The mineral, textured aftertaste suggests it could age through 2015. Terroir Imports. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $12

88 Terras d’Alter 2012 Terra D’Alter Siria (Alen-tejano). Crisp and fresh, the wine is bright

and fruity. It has strong green and white fruit flavors that are given a boost by the touch of vanilla. It’s a food wine, dry, fragrant and ready to drink. Artisan Vines Distributing. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $15

87 Herdade da Malhadinha Nova 2012 Monte da Peceguina (Alentejano). A ripe straw-

colored wine, it has a good freshness and attractive green acidity. There is a hint of vanilla as well as apple and pear fruits. It’s fruity and ready to drink. Tri-Vin Imports. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $15

87 Herdade de São Miguel 2013 Ciconia Branco (Alentejano). Ripe and rich, it’s full of tropi-

cal fruit, pineapple and mango flavors. Fresh acidity balances the full fruitiness. The aftertaste brings out a more mineral character. Tri-Vin Imports. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $10

87 Monte da Ravasquera 2013 Fonte da Serrana (Alentejano). Rounded and fruity, the wine

is soft and full in the mouth. Lively acidity gives a textured aftertaste that brings out yellow fruits. Ar-tisan Vines Distributing. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $14

87 Monte da Ravasquera 2012 Reserva (Alen-tejano). Herbaceous aromas translate to a

crisp, citrus-flavored wine that’s light and fresh. The wine is fruity, bright and ready to drink with its intensely green aftertaste. Artisan Vines Distribut-ing. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $20

87 Terras d’Alter 2012 Terra D’Alter Reserva Branco (Alentejano). This is a spicy, nutmeg-

flavored wine. Its wood aging plays well with the aromatic fruitiness that brings out yellow fruits as well as light acidity. It needs no aging. Artisan Vines Distributing. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $20

86 Monte da Ravasquera 2013 Branco (Alente-jano). A soft and yeasty wine that has hints

of Rocha pear and apricot fruit. It’s rounded and full in the mouth, with light hints of acidity and vanilla at the end. Artisan Vines Distributing. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $13

84 Magnum Vinhos 2012 Maria Mora (Alente-jano). This rich, full-bodied wine has some

acidity, although the palate is dominated by creamy yellow fruits and a yeasty character at the end. Grape Moments. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $NA

OTHER WHITE WINES

89 Companhia das Quintas 2013 Quinta do Cardo Branco Siria (Beira Interior). Lightly

straw-colored, this is a crisp and fruity wine. Ap-ples, citrus and a touch of ripe melon dominate at this stage, giving a young, fresh character. It’s still bouncy and tangy and will broaden out over the next few months to give more complexity. Drink from 2015 Wine In-Motion. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $13

88 Aveleda 2013 Alvarinho (Minho). For full re-view see page 7. Best Buy.

abv: 12.5% Price: $13

88 Coteaux da Murta 2012 Quinta da Murta Arinto (Bucelas). Fruity and lemony, this is

a bright and fresh wine with just a touch of steeli-ness. Almonds come through at the end. River Horse Imports. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $NA

88 Quinta da Calçada 2012 Terroir (Minho). This rounded, ripe wine has a considerable

amount of creamy Alvarinho in the blend. With a year’s aging, it is full-bodied, while retaining the cool, crisp character of wines from Portugal’s north. Drink this fresh and rich wine now. International Vines, Inc. —R.V. abv: 12% Price: $17

87 Coteaux da Murta 2012 Quinta da Murta Clas-sico Arinto (Bucelas). Soft and rounded, the

wine is fresh as well as full in the mouth. There is a creamy character to this full and citrusy wine that makes it good as an apéritif. River Horse Imports. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $NA

SWEET WINES

90 Quinta da Alorna 2011 Colheita Tardia (Tejo). Lightly gold in color, it has a touch

of botrytis to give a honeyed character. The wine is full and rich, with an element of dryness at its heart. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

82 Quinta da Lagoalva de Cima 2013 Late Har-vest Gewürztraminer-Riesling (Tejo). The

wine has sweetness as well as a sugar-water charac-ter. It is fruity, but has a concocted, artificial after-taste. Winebow. —R.V. abv: 11% Price: $28/375 ml

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SPARKLING WINES

87 Coteaux da Murta 2011 Quinta da Murta Espumante Brut Nature (Bucelas). Gold in

color, this is a mature wine. A tight mousse gives just the right prickle, but its fruitiness is now changing to toastiness bringing a ripe, full after-taste. River Horse Imports. —R.V. abv: 12% Price: $NA

83 Coteaux da Murta 2011 Murta Espumante Rose Extra Brut (Lisboa). This yeasty wine

has some fruit, although it veers more to a mature character. It should be drunk now. River Horse Im-ports. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $NA

ROSÉS

87 Quinta da Alorna 2013 Rosé (Tejo). This is an attractive, fruity wine, crisp and fresh. It has

delicious acidity with a touch of strawberry and a lightly mineral texture. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

87 Wines & Winemakers 2013 Companhia das Lezirias Catapereiro Rosé (Tejo). This is an

attractive, fruity, fresh rosé. It is dry but balances acidity and fruitiness with its sweet strawberry fruit and light touch of vanilla pod. Drink now. Ibe-ria Wine & Spirits LLC. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $12

86 Casa do Valle 2013 Rosé (Vinho Verde). Bright pink in color, this is a fresh rosé, just

off dry, with lively citrus and wild strawberry fruits. Acidity cuts through the wine, making it crisp and ready to drink. Massanois Imports. —R.V. abv: 11% Price: $12

86 DFJ Vinhos 2013 Coreto Rosé (Lisboa). Light and fruity, this is an immediately attractive,

fragrant, off-dry wine. With its red berry flavors, it tastes warm and inviting. The touch of acidity rein-forces the bright drinkability. Dionysos Imports Inc. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 12% Price: $7

86 Quinta da Raza 2013 Dom Diogo Rosé (Vin-ho Verde). Made from Padeiro, a local red

grape, this is a red plum, ripe rosé. It has weight and a touch of spice along with the Vinho Verde palate prickle. It’s ready to drink, finishing soft and fresh. Matadorvino LLC. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $14

86 Quinta do Casal Branco 2013 Rosé (Tejo). Bright pink in color, this is a fresh wine

with some citrus character that gives crispness. A sweeter side shows at the end and gives a soft after-taste. Tri-Vin Imports. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $10

85 DFJ Vinhos 2013 Casa do Lago Rosé (Lisboa). A perfumed wine that is soft and fruity. It

has a fresh, tangy character that makes it very re-freshing and crisp.Think of this as an apéritif rosé, bright and light. Dionysos Imports Inc. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 12% Price: $9

85 Falua 2013 Tagus Creek Rosé (Tejo). Fresh and fruity, this is a crisply made, drink-

it-now rosé. With freshly crushed raspberries and light acidity, it’s perfect for an apéritif. Aidil Wines/Old World Import. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $9

85 Quinta do Casal Branco 2013 Terra de Lobos Rosé (Tejo). Textured and mineral, this

crisp wine has some lively acidity as well as rasp-berry fruitiness. It’s totally ready for the summer. Tri-Vin Imports. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $10

85 Wines & Winemakers 2013 Casa Ermelinda Freitas Monte de Baía Rosé (Península de

Setúbal). Soft and fruity, this is a ripe style of rosé. It’s dry and peppery, with fresh acidity cut-ting through its rounded texture. It’s a rosé for food, with a full aftertaste. Wine Without Borders. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $11

84 Aveleda 2013 Casal Garcia Rosé (Vinho Verde). This fresh and clean wine really de-

livers on fruitiness and a fresh acidity. It is a lightly sweetened wine, a summer apéritif. Aveleda Im-ports. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 10% Price: $8

84 Casa Santos Lima 2013 Portuga Rosé (Lis-boa). On the dry side, this is a fruity wine

that goes towards raspberries and loganberries. It’s fresh and crisp; drink now. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $NA

84 DFJ Vinhos 2013 Pink Elephant Rosé (Lis-boa). Not just named on a whim, some of

the proceeds for the sale of this wine goes to pro-tecting Asian elephants. Designed to pair with spicy food, this is a soft, very fruity wine. It is dry and spicy itself with just enough acidity to keep it fresh. Dionysos Imports Inc. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 12% Price: $8

83 Adega Cooperativa Ponte de Barca 2013 Ela Rosé (Vinho Verde). Vividly pink in color,

this is a light and sweet wine. There is a sugary af-tertaste followed by fresh, crisp acidity. Touchstone Wines. —R.V. abv: 10% Price: $9

83 Falua 2013 Conde de Vimioso Colheita Selec-cionada Rosé (Tejo). This candied rosé is a

blend of Touriga Nacional and Syrah. Full of soft red berry fruits with only light acidity, it is off-dry to

taste. A touch of pepper at the end is less attractive. Aidil Wines/Old World Import. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $9

81 Quinta Vale do Armo 2013 Vila Jardim Rosé (Tejo). A fat, soft wine that isn’t fresh

enough. There are some sweet strawberry flavors, a touch of caramel and a metallic edge. European Wine Imports. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $11

PORTUGALRED WINES

DOURO

99 Casa Ferreirinha 2004 Barca Velha (Douro). This is the latest release of Portugal’s most

iconic wine. It’s made only in selected years (the last vintage was 2000) from Ferreira’s Quinta da Leda in the Douro Superior. This new vintage is superb. It’s a richly tarry wine laden with dark plum fruits and tannins that are just beginning to mature. It’s a ripe and luscious, demanding attention, yet will still age for many years. Drink now, or hold until 2020. Broadbent Selections, Inc. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $426

94 Quinta do Vesuvio 2011 Red (Douro). This is an immense wine, seriously ageworthy

and still very young. It is powered by the dark tan-nins and concentrated fruits that come from the old vines at this iconic quinta. Dark, brooding, still with its wood aging up front, this needs to age for many years. Drink from 2019. Premium Port Wines, Inc. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $73

93 Quinta de la Rosa 2011 La Rosa Reserva (Dou-ro). Powerful and tannic, this is a dense

and complex wine. Made from selected barrels, it is structured as well as rich in fruit. Blackberry fla-vors come through the dry tannins and give acidity as well as ripeness. It’s a wine that will need time; don’t drink before 2017. Winesellers Ltd. Cellar Se-lection. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $50

93 Quinta Dona Matilde 2008 Dona Matilde Reserva Tinto (Douro). Complex, ripe and

fruity, this is an impressive wine with an impres-sive future. Its structure is still dominant, although the ripe damson and blueberry fruits are rich and concentrated. With strong wood aging flavors, it’s powerful and still needs to age. Drink from 2017. Vin de Terra Imports, Inc. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA

92 Companhia das Quintas 2011 Quinta da Fron-teira Grande Escolha (Douro). This rich and

fruity wine shows the natural richness of the Douro, with dense and firm tannins that will allow the wine to age. Black plum fruits are powerful and concen-

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44 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | AUGUST 2014

trated, giving fruit and acidity. It needs to age for several years, don’t drink before 2017. Well-Oiled Wine Company. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $69

92 Companhia das Quintas 2011 Quinta da Fron-teira Reserva (Douro). The classic Douro

blend of Touriga Nacional, Touriga Franca and Tinta Roriz has created a solid, dense and very structured wine. Black plums dominate on the fruit spectrum, supported by dry tannins. Fragrant and fresh, it’s a wine to age. Drink from 2017. Well-Oiled Wine Company. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $40

92 Poeira 2011 Pó de Poeira (Douro). Firmly structured, the second wine of Poeira is a

dense and dryly tannic. There is a strong feeling of minerality and terroir, very firm and solid. The acidity and ripe black fruits that underly this rock-like structure will develop. Drink from 2017. Vinum Wine Importing and Distributing LLC. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $21

92 Quinta de Porrais 2010 Parcelas (Douro). The wine has power, structure and density.

Hard initial tannins show that it needs to age, but the black fruits come through richly as it opens up. The strong mineral character gives a firm texture to the wine. Drink from 2017. Value Vines LLC. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $15

92 Quinta do Vesuvio 2011 Pombal do Vesúvio (Douro). The second wine of Quinta do

Vesúvio, Pombal is still concentrated and dense from low yielding vines. Layers of juicy plum flavors and acidity gain strength and power from the dense, sweet tannins. It will need to age a few years, so drink from 2017. Premium Port Wines, Inc. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $28

91 Lavradores de Feitoria 2009 Três Bagos Grande Escolha (Douro). Still firmly tannic,

this impressive wine is still developing. Made from old vines that give minerality and concentration, it is very dense allowing some juicy black plum flavors to show through. With its dry tannins, it’s going to need more aging. Drink from 2017. Polaner Selec-tions. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $59

91 Quinta das Bandeiras 2011 Passagem Reserva (Douro). From vineyards in the Douro Supe-

rior, the high Douro close to Spain, this powerful wine reflects the dry climate with its dense tannins and concentration. A juicy element brings fresh black plums and acidity to the mix. The wine is an impressive work in progress. Drink from 2017. Wi-nesellers Ltd. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $30

90 Barão de Vilar 2011 Reserva (Douro). While the wine is certainly dry and concentrated,

it’s also rich with ripe black fruits. The dry, dusty tannins promise much with their power and densi-ty. Drink from 2018. Regal Wine Imports Inc. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $NA

90 Companhia das Quintas 2011 Quinta da Fronteira Selecção do Enólogo (Douro). This

is fresh and juicy while also having structure; a mineral edge to the texture gives power. Acidity and juiciness both contribute to the ripe, full-bodied mix. The wood-aging is too dominant at this stage, so give the wine several years. Drink from 2017. Well-Oiled Wine Company. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $20

90 Lavradores de Feitoria 2011 Três Bagos (Douro). There are powerful tannins at

work here. The wine has structure, a solid and firm texture and strong black currant flavors. It’s still young, showing a dry, mineral edge that will need to warm up before it’s ready. Drink from 2017. Polaner Selections. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $15

90 Quinta das Apegadas 2011 Apegadas Quinta Velha (Douro). The wine is a field blend of

a mix of grape varieties planted at random in the old Douro tradition. It is both structured and fruity, allowing a splendid range of perfumes to come from the glass. Ripe and full-bodied, with a touch of wood-aging, it has a medicinal edge as well as layers of black fruitiness. It needs to age, so drink from 2016. Mid-Atlantic Sales Group. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $18

90 Quinta do Romeu 2010 Reserva (Douro). Concentrated tannins give this wine from

organic grapes a powerful structure. For balance, it also has a more fruity character that offers black-berry and black plums. The wine’s dense texture means it needs to age through late 2014. Bon Vivant Imports. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $27

89 C. da Silva 2011 Dalva Grande Reserva (Douro). This smooth, rich and ripe wine

conveys a strong feeling of power. Weight and con-centration from black plum fruit and dark tannins are freshened by acidity. Solidly textured, this big, beefy number will be ready to drink by the end of 2015. Jack Poust & Co., Inc. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $21

89 Poeira 2010 Dusty (Douro). The wine is fresh with berry fruits while being solidly

structured and dense. Rich fruits shine through the concentrated structure. It does need to age, al-though not for long and it could be drunk now if decanted. Otherwise, drink from 2016. Vinum Wine Importing and Distributing LLC. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $13

89 Quinta do Vesuvio 2010 Pombal do Vesúvio (Douro). Named after the Pombal, or dove-

cote at Vesúvio, this is a soft, ready-to-drink wine.

It has attractive acidity and black currant flavors. Layers of tannins offer support while not suggest-ing any long-term aging. Drink from 2015. Premium Port Wines, Inc. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $28

89 Ronção Pequeno 2012 Espinhal Tinto Reser-va (Douro). An aromatic, rich and dense

wine with structure as well as fruit. It has a mineral edge, tight as well as showing richness. It shows some spice as well as blackberry juiciness. Drink from 2015. NLC Wines. —R.V. abv: 15.5% Price: $NA

88 Barão de Vilar 2008 Grande Reserva (Dou-ro). Solid and firm, it has powerful tannins

and no sense yet of aging. The concentration is pal-pable, offering impressive weight while also bring-ing out ripe berry fruits. It needs until 2017–2018 to soften. Regal Wine Imports Inc. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $NA

88 C. da Silva 2011 Dalva Reserva (Douro). A richly fruity wine, warm and ripe. Spice,

tannins and black plums are all there in a concen-trated package that projects richness. It’s perfumed although it does need to age. Drink from 2016. Jack Poust & Co., Inc. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $9

88 DFJ Vinhos 2011 Patamar Reserva (Douro). This structured, dense and smoky wine

features dry tannins and a mineral texture. It has blackberry fruitiness to go with this scaffolding, so it will develop well to give a ripe, full, rich wine. Wait until 2015. Dionysos Imports Inc. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $10

88 Lavradores de Feitoria 2010 Quinta da Costa (Douro). Behind the dark tannins, a huge

mouthful of fruit is waiting to come out. The wine has weight, showing layers of wood aging and dark tannins. It’s concentrated and needs to age. Drink from 2017. Polaner Selections. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $32

88 Quinta do Romeu 2011 Tinto (Douro). Big, bold and fruity, this is a warm and rich

wine. The wood-aging has rounded out the natural structure of the wine, giving it weight and density. Black fruits burst out of the glass, although the wine will be even better in 2015. Bon Vivant Imports. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $19

88 Quinta Dona Matilde 2009 Dona Matilde Tinto (Douro). Richly structured, this wine

has a fine future. Dark berry fruits, sweet tannins and just enough acidity are combining well to give a wine that is both firm and fruity. Give this solid, balanced wine until 2017. Vin de Terra Imports, Inc. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $NA

WINEMAG.COM | 45

87 Barão de Vilar 2009 Tinto (Douro). This is a richly ripe wine, Port-like in its sweet tan-

nins and density. Layers of acidity accompany dry tannins and a firm while fruity character. Berry fruits are in the background of this concentrated wine. Drink from 2017. Regal Wine Imports Inc. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA

87 Lavradores de Feitoria 2010 Meruge (Douro). Spicily aromatic, the wine is richly fruity

while also full of new wood flavors, touched by va-nilla and toast. It needs to integrate better, so give it until 2016. Polaner Selections. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $34

87 Magnum Vinhos 2011 Tom de Baton (Douro). An aromatic wine, it has a Port-like charac-

ter both from its perfumes and its structure. The wine is rich as well as dry, giving a textured char-acter to the full, fruity aftertaste. Drink now. Grape Moments. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA

87 Wines & Winemakers 2012 Colleja (Douro). An intense wine. it has a cool feel from its

900-foot-high vineyards. Plenty of acidity keeps it fresh and fruity, bringing out flavors of black cur-rant as well as spicy wood. It could age a year, so wait until 2015. Iberia Wine & Spirits LLC. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $11

86 Barão de Vilar 2012 Tinto (Douro). A smooth and fruity wine that has soft tannins and a

rich, juicy character. It is full of damson and black plum fruits, ripe and jammy at the end. Drink now. Regal Wine Imports Inc. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA

86 Quinta das Apegadas 2011 Douro Banks by Apegadas (Douro). With its field blend of

old vines, this wine is both concentrated and fruity. It has weight, richness and a solid, darkly tannic structure. It needs to age for a few months, so drink from 2015. Mid-Atlantic Sales Group. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $11

86 Quinta do Romeu 2010 Tinto (Douro). Con-centrated tannins give this wine from or-

ganic grapes a powerful structure. For balance, it also has a more fruity character that offers black-berry and black plums. The dense texture means it needs to age until 2015. Bon Vivant Imports. —R.V. abv: 12% Price: $19

85 Lavradores de Feitoria 2012 Tinto (Douro). Just fruit, this young wine shows attractive

blackberry flavors and soft tannins. It’s ripe and juicy, fresh while also rich. Drink now. Polaner Se-lections. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $12

85 Quinta do Romeu 2011 Moinho do Gato (Dou-ro). Very jammy, it has gentle, soft tannins,

and strawberry fruits. It’s fresh without any struc-ture. Bon Vivant Merchants. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $15

85 Senhora do Convento 2008 Quinta do Con-vento (Douro). Despite its age, the wine is

still dry and tannic. That makes it a hard proposi-tion now and possibly for the future. It’s all struc-ture, no fruit. Roadhouse Wine Merchants. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA

84 Magnum Vinhos 2011 Vinha do Reino (Dou-ro). On the dry side, this is a firm wine,

structured without a real sense of fruitiness. The tannins give a tough feeling that probably won’t soften Grape Moments. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $NA

84 Messias 2011 Messias Selection (Douro). The wine is very dry and hard edged. It has an

extracted, tough structure that seems to miss out on fruit. As it develops, it’s likely to remain dry. Direct Wine Imports. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

84 Quinta Dona Matilde 2009 Fartote Tinto Vinhas Velhas (Douro). Ripe and juicy, it

shows strawberry jelly flavors as well as consider-able acidity. It seems unbalanced with freshness and structure in conflict. Vin de Terra Imports, Inc. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA

83 Messias 2011 Quinta do Cachão Reserva (Douro). Old wood dominates this hard

wine. It is tough and likely to remain that way. Di-rect Wine Imports. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

TRÁS-OS-MONTES

86 Quinta do Sobreiró de Cima 2011 Santa Valha Tinto (Trás-os-Montes). Fresh and juicy,

this is a fruity wine. Blackberry flavors dominate, with intense acidity and a light layer of tannin. The wine is ready to drink. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $NA

85 Quinta do Sobreiró de Cima 2011 Tinto (Trás-os-Montes). Solid and dry, the wine is sus-

tained by its rich tannins and earthy character. Rooted in the tough soils of the northeast, it’s al-ways going to be firm. Give it until 2015 to soften a little. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $NA

85 Quinta do Sobreiró de Cima 2004 Reserva (Trás-os-Montes). A tarry, old-fashioned

wine that has dense tannins, black plum fruits and an almost Port-like richness. It is developing and

rounding out, although it will always be a dry, con-centrated wine. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $NA

DÃO

93 Sogrape 2011 Quinta dos Carvalhais (Dão). Touriga Nacional is as much, maybe more,

at home in the Dão as in the Douro. That’s shown by this ripe and powerful wine that is still so young. The dark structure of tannins and wood flavors has a great mineral texture along with the potential for delicious blackberry fruits. It needs several years aging, wait until 2018. Evaton, Inc. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $35

93 Sogrape 2010 Quinta dos Carvalhais Colheita (Dão). A wood-aged wine from the heart of

the Dão, it has tannins, a tense mineral structure and layer after layer of black currant fruit and acid-ity. Dark and brooding at this stage, it needs to age for several years. Drink from 2016. Evaton, Inc. Edi-tors’ Choice. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $17

92 Fontes da Cunha 2009 Quinta do Mondego (Dão). With a firm, almost granite structure,

this is a terroir-driven wine, from a quinta named after the River Mondego that flows through the Dão region. It has a dense, tannic character based on ripe berry fruits and concentrated juicy black cur-rants. The wine is intense and still needing to age. Drink from 2018. Tri-Vin Imports. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $13

92 Ideal Drinks 2010 Dom Bella Touriga Nacional (Dão). Dark and dry, it has excellent poten-

tial. Pure Touriga Nacional gives its signature firm mineral tannins and and a rich, tarry underlying fruit character. Powerful now, it will be richer in the future. Drink from 2017. Strategic Importers. Edi-tors’ Choice. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $28

91 Fontes da Cunha 2010 Mondeco (Dão). Very dry, this wine is still young. It has dark pow-

er, concentration and solid tannins. Underneath all this firmness, the wine has a rich layer of black fruits. It will always be a structured wine, but wait until 2018 and it will round out. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA

90 Magnum Vinhos 2010 Ribeiro Santo Reserva (Dão). Rich, structured while also juicy,

this is a complex wine. A strongly mineral, steely character supports juicy berry fruits and ripe acid-ity. The wine is dry, but the great fruitiness gives it an attractive future. Drink from 2016. Grape Mo-ments. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA

90 Sogrape 2010 Callabriga (Dão). The wine has all the classic structure and mineral

tension of Dão. It gives both richness and dark, dry

BUYINGGUIDE

46 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | AUGUST 2014

tannins that need several years to soften. At the same time, juicy black currant fruits give a fresh side to this complex, concentrated wine. Drink from 2016. Evaton, Inc. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $16

89 Magnum Vinhos 2011 Ribeiro Santo (Dão). Swathes of fruit come across this ripe wine.

To balance, it has a gritty structure that is firm in its tannins. It’s a ripe, lightly perfumed wine that will age. Drink from 2017. Grape Moments. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA

89 Messias 2010 Quinta do Penedo (Dão). There are signs of juiciness in this young

wine although for now, it is firm and dry. With a hard edge and bitterness it will need aging to show roundness. Drink from 2018. Direct Wine Imports. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

88 Magnum Vinhos 2011 Ribeiro Santo (Dão). A perfumed, spicy wine full of dark fruits,

wood-aging flavors and rich tannins. It is struc-tured, dense and dry at the core. The wine needs time to bring out the fruit and fill out the structure. Drink from 2017. Grape Moments. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA

87 Fontes da Cunha 2011 Munda (Dão). Spicy and concentrated, it shows evident wood-

aging. It has a firm structure, very dense in char-acter and powerful, conveying the feeling that the producer has tried too hard. The spicy wood brings out a more open side of the wine, pushing the black currant fruits forward. Drink from 2016. Tri-Vin Imports. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $27

84 Julia Kemper Wines 2010 Julia Kemper Touri-ga Nacional (Dão). The wine is firm with

acidity and spice in tandem. It has a juicy character, although the acidity seems unbalanced with the rest of the wine. The House Of Burgundy. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $22

83 Ideal Drinks 2012 Bella Superior (Dão). Firm and very dry, it has hard, extracted tannins

and a tough structure, not showing a sign of fruit. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA

BAIRRADA

92 Ideal Drinks 2009 Principal Grande Reserva (Bairrada). Initially earthy in character, this

is a powerful blend of Touriga Nacional with Bor-deaux grapes. It is still young, but is showing a great intensity and concentration. It has weight and a firm core of very dry tannins interwoven with black, juicy fruits. It should develop into a complex, rich wine. Drink from 2017. Strategic Importers. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $93

90 Ideal Drinks 2008 São Lourenço (Bairrada). Dark and brooding this balanced wine has

a firm structure and juicy black plum juice flavors. A strong line of fragrant acidity brings a fresher character at the end. Strategic Importers. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $15

88 Ideal Drinks 2008 Colinas Reserva (Bair-rada). Densely tannic, this is a dark, rich,

intense wine. The mature dusty tannins are bal-anced by acidity, black currant fruitiness and fin-ished with a dry core. It’s ready to drink. Strategic Importers. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $20

88 Lusovini 2010 Torre de Coimbra Reserva (Ba-irrada). The wine is firm and solid while

also having a strongly juicy character, with weight, rich blackberry fruits and a spicy element. It’s full-bodied, adding a touch of pepper to the mix. Wine In-Motion. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA

BEIRA INTERIOR

94 Companhia das Quintas 2011 Quinta do Cardo Grande Escolha (Beira Interior). One

of the strengths of cool Beira Interior is that it pro-duces powerful wines without the attendant alco-hol of warmer climates. That’s apparent with this intense, dark wine. Blending Touriga Nacional and Tinta Roriz, the dense and brooding wine with its rich blackberry fruitiness alongside dry, mineral tannins is a study in concentration and needs to age. Drink from 2018. Wine In-Motion. Cellar Se-lection. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $55

92 Companhia das Quintas 2011 Quinta do Cardo Reserva (Beira Interior). A beautifully ripe

and complex wine, this 100% Touriga Nacional from the mountainous interior shows great elegance and fragrance along with power and richness. It brings out the granite terroir with its strongly min-eral, steely texture, still giving room for the black currant fruit. Drink this ageworthy wine from 2017. Wine In-Motion. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $30

91 Companhia das Quintas 2011 Quinta do Cardo Selecção do Enólogo (Beira Interior). As with

other wines from Quinta do Cardo, this is packed with minerals and a dark, stony texture. It is con-centrated, full of intense acidity and powerful tan-nins. Rich, it conveys a genuine sense of aging po-tential. Don’t drink before 2018. Wine In-Motion. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $16

88 Companhia das Quintas 2012 Quinta do Car-do (Beira Interior). With its dark color and

firm tannins, this dense wine from 2,000-foot-high vineyards belies its light alcohol to give rich struc-

ture. It is fresh as well, with black currant juiciness coming through the spice and structure. It’s still young, juicy and needs to age. Drink from 2015. Wine In-Motion. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $13

LISBOA

93 Companhia das Quintas 2011 Quinta de Pan-cas Grande Escolha (Lisboa). Big, black and

juicy, it manages to be both dense and structured and freshly fruity at the same time. With this com-bination promising great things, the wine is ripe and fragrant. The dark color from the Petit Verdot in the blend follows through to the firm texture while allowing room for refreshing juiciness. Drink from 2017. Aidil Wines/Old World Import. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $55

92 Casa Santos Lima 2010 Confidencial Reserva (Lisboa). Full of tannins at this stage, it

shows power and density. It’s a blend of more than 10 varieties, giving complexity as well as structure. There is acidity as well, bringing together the rich texture and a solid, wood and dark fruit combina-tion. It needs to age a few years, so drink from 2016. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA

91 DFJ Vinhos 2011 Grand’Arte Shiraz (Lisboa). This pure Shiraz gives a wonderfully per-

fumed wine that is both spicy and packed with dark, dense fruits. Blackberries are supported by soft tan-nins and a touch of caramel from wood aging. It’s solid, firm while also fruity and should age. Drink from 2016. Dionysos Imports Inc. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $13

91 Vidigal 2010 Brutalis (Lisboa). Strong wood aromas continue to the palate of this firm,

dry wine. Underneath, there is enough juicy fruit to bring richness as well as structure. It still needs time. Drink from 2016. Intertrade USA. —R.V. abv: 15% Price: $25

90 DFJ Vinhos 2012 Paxis (Lisboa). Rich, spicy and deliciously fruity, it has tannins well

cushioned by the ample blackberry flavors. Acidity preserves the wine’s easy freshness, while it also has a dense texture. Drink now, but the wine will be richer in late 2014. Dionysos Imports Inc. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $9

90 DFJ Vinhos 2011 Casa do Lago Grande Reser-va Cabernet Sauvignon (Lisboa). This is a

powerful, solid wine from selected fruit that brings out ripe black currant flavors and a dense structure. The ripe Cabernet Sauvignon has plenty of acidity to give a juicy edge to the dry tannins and rich tex-ture. Spice comes from wood aging. It needs to age, so drink from 2016. Dionysos Imports Inc. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $10

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89 Casa Santos Lima 2012 Vale Perdido (Lis-boa). Ripe and fruity, the wine is full of

dusty tannins as well as black plum flavors. It’s dark, dense and firm in character, but ripely juicy at the end. It has good potential. Drink from 2016. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $NA

89 DFJ Vinhos 2012 Portada Winemaker’s Selec-tion (Lisboa). Firm and structured, it has

acidity allied to ripe black currant and berry fruits. With solid tannins in the background it needs time to soften. Drink from 2016. Dionysos Imports Inc. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $8

88 Casa Santos Lima 2011 Quinta do Espirito Santo (Lisboa). Fresh and really juicy, this

blend of Tinta Roriz and Castelão has black cur-rant flavors that are underlined by good wood aging. The acidity is a balanced component of this easy, ready-to-drink wine. Great fruitiness shows at the end. —R.V. abv: 15% Price: $NA

88 DFJ Vinhos 2011 Pedras do Monte (Lisboa). Rich and bold, it’s a blend of Cabernet Sau-

vignon and Tinta Roriz, both giving a floral charac-ter as well as some concentrated tannins. The dry structure and the intense acidity at the end suggest some aging. Drink from 2015. Dionysos Imports Inc. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $9

88 Vidigal 2010 Reserva dos Amigos Seleção Es-pecial (Lisboa). Solid, structured and tan-

nic, this is a wine with potential. A mineral texture underlines the ripe, juicy fruit and berry flavors. It’s rich and deliciously fruity while also structured. Global Wine Company. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $15

87 Casa Santos Lima 2011 Opaco (Lisboa). Spicy and ripe, it’s immediately attractive. Dry

tannins are easily balanced by the rich berry fruits and acidity. It’s a polished wine, ready to drink now. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $NA

87 DFJ Vinhos 2011 Alta Corte (Lisboa). DFJ is one of a few producers who grow Caladoc,

which is here blended with Tinta Roriz. A cross between Grenache and Malbec, it gives a dark col-ored, structured wine that is shown well here. Berry fruits come through the texture strongly, giving a rich character and plenty of final acidity. Drink now. Dionysos Imports Inc. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $9

87 Félix Rocha 2012 Tinto (Lisboa). The wine is rich, firmly textured with layers of strong,

dusty tannins. It is drily structured although the bright black currant fruit is developing well. Re-

freshing fruity acidity marks the end. Narragansett Bay Group. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $NA

86 Companhia das Quintas 2012 Pancas (Lis-boa). Just lightly structured, this is a deli-

cious, fruity wine. With soft tannins and rounded black fruits, it’s fresh and fragrant. Wood flavors support the fruitiness. Full-bodied and ripe, it’s ready to drink. Aidil Wines/Old World Import. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $12

86 DFJ Vinhos 2011 Point West Touriga Nacional (Lisboa). Coming from the cool climate of

the Lisbon vineyards, this is a fresh and fruity wine. Some Touriga Nacional perfumes emerge from the soft tannins and final acidity. It’s an attractive wine to drink now. Dionysos Imports Inc. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $9

85 DFJ Vinhos 2012 Bigode (Lisboa). Bigode, meaning the mustache, is fruity, fresh and

light in texture. The juicy character needs another few months to integrate fully with the berry fruits. Spice adds interest. It will be better by the end of 2014. Dionysos Imports Inc. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $8

85 DFJ Vinhos 2012 Coreto (Lisboa). Soft and fruity, this is a smooth and polished wine.

Soft tannins give just enough structure for the berry fruits to shine. With its acidity and fresh aftertaste, it’s ready to drink. Dionysos Imports Inc. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 11.5% Price: $7

85 Félix Rocha 2011 Colheita Seleccionada (Lis-boa). Firm and dry, this is a distinctly tan-

nic wine. Weight and a strong sense of structure of-fer a firm base to the youthful berry and plum skin fruits. There’s a tight, dry finish. Narragansett Bay Group. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $NA

84 Companhia das Quintas 2012 Forgotten Field (Lisboa). The natural earthiness of Castelão

shows through this soft and ripe blended wine. It’s smoothly textured and juicy, although that barnyard feel doesn’t quite go away. Drink now for its fresh acidity and easy fruit. Aidil Wines/Old World Im-port. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $10

84 Coteaux da Murta 2011 Murta (Lisboa). Spicy and fruity, this soft-edged wine has deli-

cious, warm blackberry jelly flavors that are lightly touched by tannins and acidity. An easy wine, ready to drink now. River Horse Imports. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $NA

84 DFJ Vinhos 2011 Casa do Lago Tinto Touriga Nacional-Cabernet Sauvignon (Lisboa).

With a strongly juicy character and high acidity, this wine brings out the tannic character of the two

grapes in the blend rather than the fruit. There’s a spicy character and red fruit acidity at the end. Dio-nysos Imports Inc. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $9

84 Félix Rocha 2012 Quinta de São Cristóvão (Lisboa). High in acidity, this wine seems

unbalanced. The fruit is distinct from the structure, leaving crispness contrasted with firm tannins. Narragansett Bay Group. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $NA

83 Vidigal 2009 Casa do Cónego Touriga Nacio-nal (Lisboa). The wine is hard with little

sign of potential juicy fruit at this stage. There is a tarry, dry character, firm and not balanced. Inter-trade USA. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $9

82 Casa Santos Lima 2012 Portuga (Lisboa). Very juicy and full of acidity, it has an un-

pleasant metallic edge that gives a bitter aftertaste. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $NA

TEJO

93 Wines & Winemakers 2011 Companhia das Lezirias Tyto Alba (Tejo). Almost black in

color, this is a powerful and concentrated wine. Named after the barn owl that is found in the woods around the vines, it is packed with dense and dry tannins. Acidity comes from the black currant fruit while perfumes come from the Touriga Nacional in the blend. Drink this complex wine from 2017. Wine Without Borders. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $23

92 Casal da Coelheira 2011 Terraços do Tejo Reserva (Tejo). A big and ripe wine that has

great fruit as well as a firm, dark structure. It’s built strongly with black plums pushed by solid tannins, while also having great juicy acidity. Dominated by Touriga Nacional, it’s spicy, perfumed and develop-ing well. Drink from 2016. Vinamericas Selections. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA

91 Adega Cooperativa do Cartaxo 2011 Bridão Reserva (Tejo). This big and bold wine exudes

power and fruitiness. It has ripe fruits, sweet tan-nins and a great mix of spice, toasty wood and acid-ity. Both juicy and structured, it’s likely to develop well. Drink from 2016. Wine Enterprises LLC. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $14

91 Casa Cadaval 2012 Marquesa de Cadaval (Tejo). Showing strong wood-aging flavors,

this is a firm, impressive and toasty wine, made in homage to the grandfather of the present owner of Casa Cadaval. It offers a dark cocoa face to the world, giving a bitter element that will soften over time. Under this structure, this powerful wine has

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plenty of fruit. Drink from 2016. VOS Selections. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $65

91 Moura Basto 2012 Reserva (Tejo). A smooth, wood-aged wine that is ripe and polished. A

blend of Touriga Nacional, Castelão and Trincadeira is given style by its toast, spice and fresh acidity. It is packed with blackberries that contrast with the firm structure. It needs to age, so drink from 2017. Prestige Wine Group. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $14

91 Quinta Vale do Armo 2010 Vila Jardim Escolha (Tejo). From a fine vintage, this is a rich and

dense wine. While it does have structure and firm tannins, the fruit is so generous and opulent that it could almost be drunk now. It’s ripe, juicily sweet and full of blackberry juice flavors. It will develop, though, and will be even more tasty in 2016. Euro-pean Wine Imports. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $20

90 Caves Dom Teodosio 2011 Quinta de S João Batista Reserva Syrah (Tejo). Dense and

concentrated, this powerful wine has bold tannins, a solid structure and a dry core. At the same time, plenty of fruit bestows richness and a juicy charac-ter. It will need time, so drink from 2016. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $19

90 Caves Velhas 2012 Vinhas Altas (Tejo). Big, ripe and fruity, this is a warm and rounded

wine made from old vines. Soft tannins are well in-tegrated into the smoky wood flavors and blackber-ry fruits. By late 2014, it will be a full-bodied wine. Mid-Atlantic Sales Group. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $10

90 Fiuza 2012 Premium Alicante Bouschet (Tejo). Firmly tannic, it’s based entirely on

the rich structure of Alicante Bouschet. It has an in-terplay of dark fruits, spicy wood-aging and acidity. They are combining well to give a well-structured wine that’s ripe and juicy. Drink from 2017. Gabri-ella Importers Inc. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $156

90 Quinta da Alorna 2012 Touriga Nacional (Tejo). Packed with wood and fruit tan-

nins, it is a solid, dark and dense wine that will develop well. It shows great structure, concentrated berry fruits and final acidity. Wait until 2017 before drinking. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

90 Quinta da Lapa 2010 Syrah (Tejo). Plenty of spicy, toasty wood is balanced by the rich

black, dense fruits. The wine is coming together well. Blackberries come through strongly, partnered by the firm tannins and lifted by acidity. It needs to age, so drink from 2016. Aidil Wines/Old World Import. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA

89 Caves Dom Teodosio 2010 Quinta de S João Batista Reserva Touriga Nacional-Cabernet

Sauvignon (Tejo). This dark wine is still packed with tannins that give a dense, solid character. The acidity brings out the natural juiciness of the fruit but it does need a few more months to soften and round out. Wait until 2015. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $19

89 Quinta da Ribeirinha 2010 Vale de Lobos (Tejo). Opulently fruity, it has tarry, firm

tannins as well as ripe black plum flavors. Acidity adds a fresher element to this rich, rounded wine. It’s ready to drink. Abreu Imports LLC. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $12

88 Falua 2012 Tagus Creek Tinto (Tejo). A ripe, spicy and juicy wine that has good acidity

and balanced tannins. It’s a blend: the smooth char-acter of the Aragonez (aka Tempranillo) combines with the more tannic firmness of Cabernet Sauvi-gnon. Together, they produce a fruity, structured wine that is ready to drink. Aidil Wines/Old World Import. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $12

88 Falua 2011 Conde de Vimioso Reserva (Tejo). Ripe and jammy, this up-front wine has

some firm tannins, but these are buried in the full-bodied fruitiness. A layer of acidity gives the wine shape and the potential for some aging. Drink from 2016. Aidil Wines/Old World Import. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $40

88 Quinta da Alorna 2012 Cardal (Tejo). Round-ed and ripe, this attractive, rich wine shows

wood aging, ripe tannins and a firmer, drier core. Solid and dense, it has good acidity as well as a tight texture. The wine will need further aging, so don’t drink before 2016. Lionstone International. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $14

88 Quinta da Alorna 2011 Tinto (Tejo). Soft and smooth, this velvet-textured wine reveals

blackberry fruitiness and a nice touch of acidity. A mineral edge adds a textured element to the final fresh berry fruits. Drink from 2016. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

88 Quinta da Lapa 2010 Nana Reserva (Tejo). Ripe and juicy, it has forward fruits that

are well blended in with the tannins. Black cur-rant juice, lively acidity and a smooth aftertaste all contribute to an immediately attractive wine. Aidil Wines/Old World Import. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $NA

88 Quinta do Cavalinho 2012 Vale das Donas (Tejo). This attractive wine has a fine, dusty

structure that balances well with the rich berry fruits. Sweet tannins and layers of acidity meld well. Ripe while also elegant, it needs a short period of aging. Drink from 2015. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $10

88 Terra Silvestre 2012 Tinto (Tejo). A juicy, blackberry jelly-flavored wine, this is ripe

and soft. It’s exuberant, with just the right amount of acidity. Fruity, fleshy and rich, it’s ready to drink now. Vinamericas Selections. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $15

88 Wines & Winemakers 2011 Azul Portugal (Tejo). Dominated by juicy Castelão, this

lightly structured wine has fine tannins to propel the berry fruits up to the front. It is rich and full-bodied with a touch of pepper from the alcohol. The aftertaste brings out fresh acidity and softness. Ibe-ria Wine & Spirits LLC. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $11

87 Caves Dom Teodosio 2013 Enigma Syrah (Tejo). A solid, dark tannic wine, it initial-

ly shows dry extraction. The fruit comes through slowly, bringing out blackberry fruits and ripeness at the end. Drink from 2016. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

87 Monte Largo 2013 Tinto (Tejo). Ripe with black currant acidity and layers of firm

wood, this is a rich and fruity wine. It has young tannins, bright acidity and a firm, dry aftertaste. Drink from 2017. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA

87 Quinta da Alorna 2011 Touriga Nacional (Tejo). Smooth and ripe, it shows plenty of

fruitiness with perfumed berry flavors, acidity and touches of wood. Although it lacks a bit in charac-ter, it is certainly an easy, rich wine to enjoy soon. Drink from 2015. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA

87 Quinta da Lagoalva de Cima 2012 Espiríto La-goalva (Tejo). With the wood-aging showing

strongly, this is a firm wine. It has toastiness, red currant fruits and considerable acidity that cuts the tannins and structure. It needs a few months to round out, so drink from 2015. Winebow. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $11

87 Quinta Vale do Armo 2011 Vila Jardim Touriga Nacional (Tejo). Pure Touriga Nacional gives

a perfumed, ripe and richly juicy wine. Tannic structure offers a base for the acidity and black cur-rant fruit, but it’s soft enough to drink now. Euro-pean Wine Imports. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $12

87 Quinta Vale do Armo 2010 Vila Jardim Tinto (Tejo). A rich and spicy wine that is softly

tannic and generous. With blackberry fruits, black cherries and a good shot of acidity, it’s an easy, ripe wine that’s ready to drink now. European Wine Im-ports. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $12

86 Casaleiro 2013 Tinto (Tejo). Rich and soft, this wine is all black fruit, soft tannins and

WINEMAG.COM | 49

fragrant acidity. It’s already attractive, full of warm fruitiness, and can be drunk from 2015. Vision Wine & Spirits. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $NA

86 Caves Dom Teodosio 2013 Enigma Reserva (Tejo). This fresh and fruity wine has good

acidity along with black currant fruits. It is fresh and rounded with a firm layer of tannins in the background. Prestige Wine Group. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

86 Caves Dom Teodosio 2010 Special Selection (Tejo). The wine is fat and fruity, a bold

statement of red berries that burst from the glass. It’s fresh while also rich and structured. It’s not going to age further, so drink now. Prestige Wine Group. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

86 Fiuza 2013 Oceanus Touriga Nacional- Cabernet Sauvignon (Tejo). With a firmly

tannic structure, this is a bright and ripe wine packed with black fruits. It’s not a wine for aging, so drink now and until 2018. Gabriella Importers Inc. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $78

86 Quinta da Lapa 2012 Reserva Touriga Na-cional (Tejo). Layers of wood are already

combining well with the black fruits and juicy acid-ity. Full of fresh fruitiness and a soft structure, it’s a wine to drink from 2015. Aidil Wines/Old World Import. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $NA

85 Casal do Conde 2010 Terra Chã (Tejo). Smooth and ripe, this is a softly textured,

caramel-flavored wine. It does have a dry element, but the main thrust is full of juicy acidity. Ready to drink now. Value Vines LLC. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $13

85 Falua 2011 Tagus Creek Reserva Touriga Nacional- Cabernet Sauvignon (Tejo). Firm

and concentrated, it has dense tannins that bring out a bitter, chocolate edge. Wood gives a dark toast character. With all these conflicting elements, it’s hard to see the wine’s future. Aidil Wines/Old World Import. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $15

85 Fiuza 2013 Native Touriga Nacional- Cabernet Sauvignon (Tejo). Very young, the wine

gives out pure fruitiness, very fresh and lively. Good juiciness offers a riper view of this already very drinkable wine. Drink from 2015. Gabriella Import-ers Inc. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $88

85 Fuiza 2013 3 Castas (Tejo). Red berry fruits great freshness and brightness to this fruity

wine that has tight acidity as a balance. The wine

is crisp, young and layers light tannins at the end. Gabriella Importers Inc. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $84

85 Quinta do Casal Monteiro 2011 Terra de Touros (Tejo). Sweet red berry fruits come

through the firmer tannins. An unusual blend of Pi-not Noir and Touriga Nacional, it has plenty of acid-ity, delicious juiciness and touches of wood at the end. It’s not for long-term aging, ready to drink now. Iberian Wine Importers. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $8

84 Casal da Coelheira 2010 Terraços do Tejo (Tejo). This big, spicy wine is dominated by

licorice and heavy toast wood flavors. It is rich and full of black plum skins with only a hint of acidity. The aftertaste is sharp and bitter. Vinamericas Se-lections. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $13

84 Quinta da Lapa 2010 Selection (Tejo). A woody element gives a dry and toasty char-

acter. The fruit is still juicy with some good acid-ity. Now fully developed, the dry, old wood flavor does spoil the fruit. Aidil Wines/Old World Import. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $NA

84 Terra Silvestre 2013 Batoréus (Tejo). This is a young and fruity wine at this stage, full of

bright berry fruits and soft tannins. A green, bell pepper flavor mars the aftertaste. Vinamericas Se-lections. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $10

PENÍNSULA DE SETÚBAL

90 Herdade da Comporta 2011 Parus (Península de Setúbal). The wine is closed and dense,

with dark tannins as well as smooth caramel flavors from wood aging. It reveals concentration, black fruits and rich, exuberant potential. Drink from 2016. Value Vines LLC. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $35

86 Herdade da Comporta 2009 Comporta (Península de Setúbal). Rich, powerful and

spicy, it holds full fruits that suggest raisins as well as red berries. Tannins await in the background of all this fruitiness. Value Vines LLC. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $22

85 Herdade da Comporta 2013 Chão das Rolas (Península de Setúbal). Soft tannins and

bright acidity give a wine that’s ready to drink. Juicy red berry fruits dominate, with tannins just in the background. Value Vines LLC. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $11

ALENTEJO

91 Sogrape 2011 Callabriga (Alentejo). One of a series of wines named after the ancient Ro-

man city of Callabriga, this is solid, structured and wood-aged. Big black fruits stride across the pal-ate giving both richness and a dense texture. It’s a wine to age until mid-2015, although it is delicious enough to drink now. Evaton, Inc. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $16

90 Herdade do Perdigão 2009 Terras de Mon-forte Escolha (Alentejo). Firm and ripe, this

is a richly juicy wine full of berries. Sweet tannins dominate the firmer structure at the back. There is some concentration and the wine is still young, so it’s best to drink from 2016. Luiz’s Grocery And Li-quors. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $18

88 Herdade do Perdigão 2011 Herdade Per-digão Reserva (Alentejo). Still young and

closed up, this wine is all about the future. It has rich fruits contrasted with ripe acidity, and is given a push by the wood-aging flavor. It will need some time, so don’t drink this generous wine until 2017. Luiz’s Grocery And Liquors. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $28

88 Herdade do Perdigão 2009 Terras de Mon-forte (Alentejo). Although the wine is

closed at the moment, showing only its tannic side, it has a good promise from the weight of fruit that’s at the back. Ripe and juicy, it should age well. Drink from 2017. Luiz’s Grocery And Liquors. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $8

ALENTEJANO

93 Herdade da Malhadinha Nova 2011 Malhad-inha Tinto (Alentejano). This richly fruity

wine has poise and elegance as well as a powerful structure. A light herbal character brings out the juicy fruits as well as a mint flavor. The wine is ripe although with its serious tannic element, it does need to age. Drink from 2017. Tri-Vin Imports. Cel-lar Selection. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $45

92 Magnum Vinhos 2011 Maria Mora (Alenteja-no). Already delicious and rich, powered by

fruit as much as structure, this wine has a fine fu-ture. It’s dark and solid, full of dense, dusty tannins. But there is also excellent balance between juicy berry flavors and the wood aging. Lusciously fruity, it will be better from 2016. Grape Moments. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $NA

91 Magnum Vinhos 2010 Maria Mora Reserva (Alentejano). The wine has a medicinal char-

acter with balsam and herbal flavors. It’s rich, very

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50 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | AUGUST 2014

textured, full of dry tannins as well as berry fruits. A strong mineral character shows the sense of ter-roir. Don’t drink before 2017. Grape Moments. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $NA

91 Terras d’Alter 2011 Terra D’Alter Reserva (Alen-tejano). Big, rich and fruity, this wine has a

powerful future. It delivers structure and dense tan-nins, but it’s the generous fruitiness that promises much. The tannins will soften by 2016–2017 to give a ripe, full-bodied wine, packed with fruit. Artisan Vines Distributing. —R.V. abv: 15.5% Price: $20

90 Companhia das Quintas 2012 Portas da Her-dade Reserva (Alentejano). Big, bold and

ripe, it has concentrated fruit flavors that give black plum juice and acidity, while the tannins still show strength and power. The blend of Syrah, Alicante Bouschet and Aragonez is coming together richly and with density. It needs to age, so don’t drink before 2016. Well-Oiled Wine Company. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $17

90 Lusovini 2011 Terras de Fialho (Alentejano). Rich and spicy, this complex blend holds

Touriga Nacional, Trincadeira and Aragonez. It has juicy fruits and balanced tannins, black currant fruitiness and delicious acidity. With a touch of spice and an herbal backdrop, the wine is ripe and ready to go. Wine In-Motion. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA

90 Magnum Vinhos 2012 Flor de Maio (Alente-jano). This solid, dense blend of Touriga

Nacional, Trincadeira and Aragonez has good struc-ture with juicy berry fruits alongside sweet tannins. It’s rich, the firm texture giving the wine weight and concentration. The aftertaste brings forward more juicy fruitiness. Drink from 2015. Grape Moments. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $NA

90 Terras d’Alter 2012 Terra D’Alter Aragonez Zero SO2 (Alentejano). This is an herbal

wine made without any use of sulfur. Mint and eu-calyptus flavors bring freshness to the rich black-berry fruits. With a solid sense of structure, it’s a big wine in all senses, very dark and brooding, need-ing time. Drink from 2017. Artisan Vines Distribut-ing. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $15

89 Herdade da Malhadinha Nova 2011 Touriga Nacional (Alentejano). Rich and fruity, the

wine is full in the mouth, powered by dark tannins as well as very ripe blackberry fruits. The structure gives licorice flavors as well as some toast. Very firm at the start, the wine then reveals a softer, juicy side. Drink from 2016. Tri-Vin Imports. —R.V. abv: 15% Price: $55

88 DFJ Vinhos 2012 Monte Alentejano Reserva (Alentejano). Almost black in color, this

densely tannic wine is granular, dusty and mineral in character. The berry fruits shoulder the weight of the tannins easily, giving a ripe wine that will need until 2016 to develop fully Dionysos Imports Inc. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $10

88 Terras d’Alter 2012 Terra D’Alter (Alente-jano). Already delicious, this wine is piled

high with blackberry fruits and sweet tannins that are supported by spicy wood flavors. It’s soft and velvet in texture, very ready to drink now. Artisan Vines Distributing. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 15% Price: $13

87 DFJ Vinhos 2010 Monte Alentejano (Alente-jano). DFJ’s venture into the Alentejo has

produced a full-bodied wine packed with ripe plums and berry fruits. Tannins are rich, integrated into the fruits. A touch of earthiness needs to blow off before the wine is ready to drink in 2015. Dionysos Imports Inc. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $9

87 Henrique José de La Puente Sancho Uva 2012 Terras d’Uva (Alentejano). Ripe and juicy,

this concentrated wine also has good freshness. It’s rounded, rich, full of black currant fruitiness. Drink now or age until 2018. Terroir Imports. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $12

87 Herdade da Malhadinha Nova 2010 Marias da Malhadinha (Alentejano). Ripe and full-

bodied, this is a rich and juicy wine. With tannins kept in the background, the front is full of black-berry acidity and jammy fruitiness that’s balanced by the fresher black currant aftertaste. Tri-Vin Im-ports. —R.V. abv: 15% Price: $55

87 Herdade dos Coelheiros 2013 Ciranda (Alen-tejano). Rich and fruity, this full-bodied

wine holds ripe berry fruits that will be round and generous. A licorice flavor shows the extraction that needs to soften. Drink from 2016. LGL Imports LLC. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $8

87 Herdade dos Coelheiros 2012 Ciranda (Alen-tejano). While the wine has plenty of juicy

fruit, it also has a heavy hand with wood that gives a bitter, spice and pepper character. Densely textured, it’s tough for the moment although it will round out. Drink from 2017. LGL Imports LLC. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 15% Price: $8

87 Sogrape 2012 Herdade do Peso Vinhha do Monte (Alentejano). A bold, fruity and juicy

wine that is softly ripe. The tannins are well inte-grated into the black fruits and acidity. It’s not a wine that needs to age. Evaton, Inc. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $11

86 Henrique José de La Puente Sancho Uva 2012 Alfaraz Colheita Seleccionada (Alentejano).

This wine still shows its youthful tannins. Juicy acidity brings up the blackberry and blueberry. A touch of bitterness will blow away, giving an attrac-tive, fruity wine by 2016. Terroir Imports. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $15

86 Herdade da Malhadinha Nova 2011 Pequeno João (Alentejano). Fully structured, the

wine still shows its tannins. It has weight, concen-tration and a dark, brooding background. Very ripe and warm, it still needs some time. Drink from 2017. Tri-Vin Imports. —R.V. abv: 15% Price: $45

86 Herdade do Perdigão 2011 Vinha do Almo (Alentejano). With chocolate as well as

fruit flavors, this is a structured wine. A bitter edge gives the juicy damson fruit a jolt. However, it should develop well to give a ripely textured wine from 2016. Luiz’s Grocery And Liquors. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 15% Price: $9

86 Herdade dos Coelheiros 2011 Vinha da Ta-pada (Alentejano). While there is some bit-

terness in this wine, it also has forward black fruits and a great sense of juicy acidity. It needs a little time, so don’t drink before 2016. LGL Imports LLC. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $11

86 Herdade dos Coelheiros 2009 Tapada dos Coelheiros (Alentejano). The wine is ripe,

generous and lightly structured. Black currant and black plum fruits surround a dry core that gives tex-ture. It’s not for long-term aging. LGL Imports LLC. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $38

85 Companhia das Quintas 2013 Farizoa (Alen-tejano). Soft, ripe and fruity, this is the en-

try-level wine from Herdade da Farizoa in Alentejo. With its spice, soft tannins and blackberry juice fla-vor, it’s a fresh wine that can be drunk now through 2019. Well-Oiled Wine Company. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $13

85 Henrique José de La Puente Sancho Uva 2009 Alfaraz Reserva (Alentejano). Choco-

late and licorice flavors give a bitter character. It has some fruit but it’s really the structure that is talk-ing at the moment. The aftertaste is juicier. Terroir Imports. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $17

85 Herdade da Malhadinha Nova 2009 Ara-gonês da Peceguina (Alentejano). Initially

just juicy black currants, it shows a more structured side very slowly. The result is a fruity wine, ready to drink soon. Tri-Vin Imports. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $27

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85 Herdade dos Coelheiros 2012 Vinha da Tapa-da (Alentejano). Juicy and fruity, this black

currant-flavored wine is supported by some dry tannins. It’s a wine for the medium-term with its hints of wood and a touch of more bitter extraction at the end. LGL Imports LLC. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $11

84 DFJ Vinhos 2010 Vega (Alentejano). The wine displays plenty of the warmth of Alen-

tejo while keeping a streak of fresh black currant fruitiness. It’s soft, generous and ready to drink. Dionysos Imports Inc. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $9

84 Terras d’Alter 2012 Terra D’Alter Alicante Bouschet (Alentejano). Firm layers of wood

give a hard initial impression. There are hints of fruit under this plank-like character, but it will need some time to balance out, if at all. Artisan Vines Distributing. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $15

82 Herdade da Malhadinha Nova 2012 Monte da Peceguina (Alentejano). The wine is rus-

tic, full of barnyard flavors and tannins. The fruit doesn’t come through at all. Tri-Vin Imports. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $18

OTHER RED WINES

86 Casa Santos Lima 2010 Quinta das Seten-costas (Alenquer). Firm tannins give a dry

character. Black fruits are laced with acidity to give the fruity element, while the dry core is dense and promising aging. Drink from 2016. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA

86 Wines & Winemakers 2011 Azul Portugal Castelão (Palmela). Made at Casa Emelinda

Freitas in Setúbal, this is part of the nationwide range of wines under the Azul Portugal name. The Castelão grape dominates this spicy wine with its bold tannins and juicy red fruits. With its smooth texture, it’s ready to drink. Iberia Wine & Spirits LLC. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $11

PORT

95 Taylor Fladgate 1964 Very Old Single Har-vest Port. Properly old gold in color, this is

a wine from a single year, aged in casks. It’s poised between amazing fruit and a wonderful velvet tex-ture that is shot through with acidity. A feeling of lightness comes from the acidity that gives great freshness as well as complex flavors. It’s ready to drink. Kobrand. —R.V. abv: 20% Price: $NA

SPAINRÍAS BAIXAS

90 Adegas Gran Vinum 2013 Nessa Albariño (Rías Baixas). Dusty apple aromas are given

lift courtesy of citrus notes. This feels good on the palate, with zesty acidity. Flavors of stone fruits, tropical fruits, apple and citrus meld together well, while the finish is pure and long. Grapes of Spain. —M.S. abv: 12.5% Price: $17

90 As Laxas 2013 Albariño (Rías Baixas). Stony aromas of green melon and apple are mel-

low and classy. This is fresh on the palate, with a burst of acidity to brighten things up. Flavors of cit-rus fruits, green apple, nectarine and stony mineral-ity finish similarly. Frontier Wine Imports. —M.S. abv: 12.5% Price: $22

88 La Val 2013 Albariño (Rías Baixas). Citrus and apple aromas are straightforward. This

feels mostly good on the palate, with some flab and grab. Citric-leaning flavors of grapefruit and orange are softened by nectarine notes, while the finish is clampy like the palate. Polaner Selections. —M.S. abv: 12.5% Price: $17

88 Mar de Viñas 2013 Albariño (Rías Baixas). Peach, melon, apple and minerally aromas

are easy to like. This has a standard Rías Baixas feel and moderate citric acidity. Flavors of melon and nectarine finish nice and a bit sweet. Call this text-book Albariño and enjoy it. Grapes of Spain. —M.S. abv: 12.5% Price: $17

86 Don Olegario 2013 Albariño (Rías Baixas). On the nose, this is gritty and a bit stalky,

with peach-pit bitterness. The mouthfeel and body are good, while flavors of melon, peach and green banana are stalky and lightly bitter. Kobrand. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $20

RIOJA

87 Fernández Gómez 2011 Garnacha Blanca (Rio-ja). Ripe peach aromas come with mild oxi-

dized notes and waxy apple scents. This is mouth-filling yet fresh in feel, with punchy acidity. Flavors of baked, spiced apple are a touch briny, and contin-ued similarly to the balanced finish. Southern Wine Group. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $27

85 Bodegas Valdemar 2012 Inspiración Tem-pranillo Blanco (Rioja). A maderized color

is apropos for the wine’s fully mature, nutty nose. This is big and cidery feeling, with apple and orange flavors. A finish of vanilla, nuttiness and oxidation matches the color and aromas of this interesting but midlevel Tempranillo Blanco. CIV/USA. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $24

85 Finca Nueva 2012 Fermentado en Barrica Viura (Rioja). Waxy apple and pear aromas

come with butterscotch and dusty scents. The body on this barrel-fermented Viura rates as round and full, while flavors of apple, peach and spiced citrus finish yeasty, long and slightly oxidized. Jorge Or-doñez Selections. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $16

84 deAlto Amo 2011 Blanco (Rioja). Melon, peach and vanilla-cookie aromas are simple

and easy. This is plump in feel but bland on the tongue. Flavors of stone fruits are modest, while the finish lumbers along and lingers with a touch of peach. Goelet Wine Estates. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $10

84 Muga 2012 Barrel Fermented Viura (Rioja). Apple, peach and white-flower aromas later

suggest dilute pool water. The wine is is tangy and high in malic acid. Sour apple and mixed green-herb flavors finish tart, shear and tangy, with minimal fruit flavor but good crispness. Jorge Ordoñez Se-lections. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $16

83 Bodegas Valdemar 2012 Conde de Valdemar Finca Alto Cantabria Fermentado en Barrica

Viura (Rioja). This is maderized in color and slightly oxidized, with clumsy aromas of peach, apple and sweat. Citric acid is about all that’s propping up the palate, while flavors of nutty, oxidized stone fruits and citrus finish similarly. CIV/USA. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $20

82 J. Garcia Carrion 2011 Antaño Viura (Rioja). This opens with oxidized, creamy aromas

while the palate offers mostly acidic, tart citrus flavors that are surrounded by oxidized stone-fruit notes. The finish ends nutty. CIV/USA. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $8

RUEDA

88 Finca Montepedroso 2013 Verdejo (Rueda). Friendly aromas of apple and stone fruits

are inviting and clean. This is cutting on the pal-ate, but not overly so, with a good feel and cleans-ing acids. Apple and lime flavors finish bright and uncomplicated. Winebow. —M.S. abv: 12.5% Price: $18

88 Marqués de la Concordia 2013 Vega de la Reina Hacienda Zorita Verdejo (Rueda). Ap-

ple and nectarine aromas are clean and snappy, with a hint of yeast-based vanilla. A fresh, citric palate delivers lime, green apple, pineapple and nectarine flavors, while the finish is clean as a new razor, with nothing off, bitter or pithy. The Haciendas-Compa-ny. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $14

88 Matarromera 2012 Edición Limitada 25 Ani-versario Verdejo (Rueda). This is a particu-

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52 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | AUGUST 2014

lar style of barrel-aged Verdejo that displays aromas of cured ham, fennel and not much fruit. This has creamy weight on the palate. Flavors of oily white fruits, nuts and charcuterie finish in a blaze of funky flavors, texture and residual oak. This heavy-weight white isn’t for everyone and it’s by no means a mainstream rendition of Verdejo. Matarromera USA, Inc. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $55

88 Vicente Gandia 2013 Nebla Verdejo (Rueda). Stony, minerally aromas are a touch dusty

and suggest melon and peach. The palate is round and juicy, while flavors of lime, green melon and gooseberry finish mellow and easy, with a touch of residual citric acid. Vicente Gandia USA. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 12.5% Price: $10

87 Emina 2013 Rueda. Minerally apple aromas are dusty and yeasty, but straightforward.

This feels juicy and a touch plump, with nectarine, citrus and green herb flavors that carry through to the finish. Matarromera USA, Inc. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 12.5% Price: $8

87 Emina 2009 Selección Personal Carlos Moro Verdejo (Rueda). This style of oak-ferment-

ed Verdejo probably does better in cool years, which 2009 was not. As a result, this smells a bit oxidized and nutty, with baked apple scents. In the mouth, it is weighty and a touch dull; flavors of butterscotch and cashew finish with cider, salt and buttery notes. Drink now. Matarromera USA, Inc. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $35

86 Esperanza 2013 Estate Grown & Bottled Verdejo-Viura (Rueda). Generic white-fruit

aromas of peach and apple are slightly pithy. This feels good but innocuous, while flavors of apple and stone fruits lose some of their snap and directness on a tropical-tasting finish. Axial Wines USA. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 12% Price: $9

86 Marqués de Cáceres 2012 Verdejo (Rueda). Green apple and peach aromas are straight-

forward and come with a pinch of warm radiator dust. The wine remains fresh, juicy and moderately stony on the palate, with minerally apple and peach flavors. Fresh acidity and a light body allow it to hold steady on the finish. Vineyard Brands. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 12.5% Price: $9

83 Miguel Arroyo Izquierdo 2012 Verdejo (Rue-da). Aromas of saline, oily white fruits and

swimming pool unfold on the nose. This feels oily and tastes pickled, with bitter notes, green herbs and mild stone-fruit flavors. The gripping finish tastes pithy. Jorge Ordoñez Selections. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $16

83 Pagos del Rey 2012 Blume Verdejo (Rueda). Pickled, briny aromas come up short and

the palate is snappy but not well defined. Flavors of bitter citrus finish equally pithy. MHW, Ltd. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $10

82 Lo Nuevo 2012 Lunares Old Vines Verdejo (Rueda). Floral and yeasty on the nose, but

not fruity or interesting, this wine is on the fade. The mouthfeel is heavy and flat, while peachy, mel-ony flavors finish bready. Vintage Point. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $12

OTHER WHITE WINES

88 Jaspi 2012 Blanc (Terra Alta). Minerally lime and peach-pit aromas set up a crisp, stony,

elegant palate with lees-based flavors of vanilla that are softly matched by melon and papaya. Fresh and not too demanding, it’s made from 70% Garnatxa Blanca and 30% Macabeo (Viura). The Artisan Col-lection. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $20

87 Cellar Bàrbara Forés 2012 Blanc (Terra Alta). Prickly citrus aromas are jumpy and a touch

sulfuric. This feels leesy, creamy and fat in the mouth, with creamy, tropical flavors of melon and papaya. Bitter flavors of almond and citrus pith vie with lees-based vanilla notes on a round, plump fin-ish. Aviva Vino. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $16

87 Zerran 2012 Garnatxa Blanca (Montsant). The nose on this Garnacha Blanca is funky

and blends aromas of cured ham and salami with lees and citrus. The palate feels right, with solid acidity. Flavors of tangerine, gooseberry and nec-tarine end pulpy and citric, with a touch of green herbs. Jorge Ordoñez Selections. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $17

86 Ànima Negra 2012 Quíbia Falanis (Vi de la Terra Mallorca). This white blend from Mal-

lorca is melony up front and, like an island wine is prone to show, saline is all over the nose. In the mouth, this is melony but not too soft, with flavors of papaya, banana and honeydew. A smooth, creamy finish says drink this soon. Winebow. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $16

86 El Pensador 2012 Verdejo (Vino de la Tierra de Castilla y León). This Verdejo is in its late

stages of life but it’s hanging in there. Mostly neu-tral aromas of apple and lime set up a palate with citrusy acidity that keeps the wine alive. Narrow, simple flavors of orange and nectarine finish pithy but true to the variety. Drink immediately. Winery Exchange. —M.S. abv: 12% Price: $13

86 Marqués de Alella 2012 Pansa Blanca (Alel-la). Dusty, leesy stone-fruit aromas form an

easy bouquet. Made from the Pansa Blanca grape, this is pulpy and leesy on the palate, conveying creaminess. Flavors of mild citrus, nectarine and

pear run sweet and ripe. A finish with peach and melon flavors is just bright and vital enough to avoid flabbiness. CIV/USA. —M.S. abv: 12.5% Price: $15

86 Vega Sindoa 2012 Chardonnay (Navarra). This oaky Chardonnay is tan and mader-

ized but still mostly vital and fresh on the nose and palate. Aromas of resiny oak, toast and smoke out-muscle subtle fruit notes, while the palate is plump, melony and offers creamy, oaky flavors that finish toasty and resiny. Jorge Ordoñez Selections. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $15

84 Ressò 2012 Old Vines Garnacha Blanca (Catalunya). The nose is blowsy and dusty,

with waxy white-fruit aromas. The palate is juicy and fresh but doesn’t offer much body. Finishing flavors of nectarine, papaya and orange are basic. Winesellers Ltd. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $8

84 Volver 2012 Tarima (Alicante). In this very basic wine, applesauce aromas are followed

by a plump, somewhat citrusy feeling palate. Fla-vors of nectarine are good and clean, while the fin-ish is solid. Jorge Ordoñez Selections. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $9

83 Bodegas Luzón 2012 Luzón Blanco White Blend (Jumilla). White-flower aromas and

little more define the nose on this bland wine from hot Jumilla. A flabby mouthfeel sets up green ba-nana and pyrazine-based flavors. Papaya is the only discernible flavor note on an otherwise soft and creamy finish. Aviva Vino. —M.S. abv: 12.5% Price: $10

83 Borsao 2012 Viura (Campo de Borja). Butter-cup aromas are peachy and yeasty. Although

the wine offers adequate freshness, it is starting to lose clarity. Flavors of dull peach finish nutty and slightly oxidized. Jorge Ordoñez Selections. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $8

83 Raimat 2012 Castell de Raimat Chardonnay (Costers del Segre). Aromas of warm radia-

tor dust and lightly toasted peach and apple come in front of a plump, peachy palate with candied orange and nectarine flavors. The finish is blocky in feel and short in length, with creamy sweetness. Aveniù Brands, Inc. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $11

82 Alex 2012 Viura (Navarra). Apple aromas are mild and innocuous. This feels wide, chunky

and without definition. Flavors of pithy white fruits turn bitter and briny on the finish. Arctic Beverage, LLC. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $11

82 Drassanes 2012 White Blend (Valencia). Light apple-blossom aromas are harmless.

In the mouth, this Chardonnay-based blend is flat

WINEMAG.COM | 53

and buttery in feel, with baked apple and peach fla-vors before a flat finish. Wein Bauer Inc.. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $11

82 Enate 2012 234 Chardonnay (Somontano). This strange, floral-smelling Chard seems

more like Gewürztraminer. It’s creamy and cloying in the mouth, with spicy, sweet flavors of anise and lychee. It’s particular and unique, but not very good. Monsieur Touton Selection Ltd. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $15

82 Pedro Escudero 2012 Fuente Milano Verdejo-Viura (Vino de la Tierra de Castilla). Chunky

aromas are lacking in fruit. The palate feels pithy and citric, while pyrazines and bland citrus drive the flavor profile on this Verdejo-Viura blend that’s past its prime. Grapes of Spain. —M.S. abv: 12.5% Price: $11

80 Angosto 2011 Blanco (Valencia). This yel-low-colored blend is weird and wooly, with

aromas of blowsy apricot and herbs. A pulpy, melo-ny palate is creamy and odd in feel, with nectarine and chunky peach flavors that turn rubbery on the finish. Hidalgo Imports, LLC. —M.S. abv: 12.5% Price: $30

80 Idrias 2011 Chardonnay (Somontano). Stalky and oxidized on the nose, this be-

comes cidery, high in acid in the mouth, with sour-lemon flavors. Vinamericas Selections. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $15

ROSÉS

87 Artadi 2013 Artazuri Garnacha Rosé (Navar-ra). Clean, fresh, presentable aromas of red

fruits are easy to like. This is balanced and offers just enough body to support cherry, nectarine and citrus flavors. The finish is crisp and lingers nicely. Folio Fine Wine Partners. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $11

85 Cepa 21 2013 Hito Rosado (Ribera del Duero). With a bright pink color, this shows slightly

heavy aromas of watermelon and red apple skins. It is medium to full in body but fresh, with candied red-fruit and citrus flavors. A fresh, properly acidic finish does the job. Michael Skurnik Wines. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $19

84 Arrocal 2013 Rosa de Arrocal (Ribera del Du-ero). Electric pink in color, this is a touch

sweaty and funky on the nose, with a prickly qual-ity. Since it hails from Ribera del Duero, it’s no sur-prise that it’s fairly full in body. Flavors of nectarine and candied red fruits finish grabby and a touch bit-ter. Grapes of Spain. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $14

83 Castillo de Monjardin 2013 Rosado de Lágri-ma (Navarra). Briny aromas of gooseberry

and citrus are a touch sweaty. In the mouth, this

is medium in weight. Flavors of briny grapefruit and other citrus fruits finish similarly. The blend is 60% Cabernet Sauvignon and 40% Tempranillo. Winebow. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $9

83 Val de Los Frailes 2013 Rosado (Cigales). Pungent, sweaty aromas of nettle and cac-

tus suggest capsicum. Citric in feel, the palate of-fers grapefruit and mild bell pepper flavors. This is Tempranillo with 20% Verdejo. Matarromera USA, Inc. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $11

LOIREPOUILLY-FUMÉ

93 Joseph Mellot 2012 La Grande Cuvée des Edvins (Pouilly-Fumé). The top Pouilly

Fumé from Joseph Mellot is a complex wine with rich, rounded fruits touched by wood aging. Yellow fruits dominate, given a further lift by apple acid-ity and a smoky flavor. Delicious now, it’s a power-ful wine that could age further, so keep until 2015. Fruit of the Vines, Inc. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $NA

90 Domaine des Mariniers 2013 Pouilly-Fumé. Still young, this has the potential to be a

rich, rounded wine. Already the citrus-drenched yellow fruits are asserting themselves along with a warm, ripe texture. Give this wine until 2016. Fruit of the Vines, Inc. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $NA

89 Joseph Mellot 2013 Le Chant des Vignes (Pouilly-Fumé). The chalk soil of Pouilly

shows through strongly in this tightly textured wine. It has acidity, a steely edge as well as fresh currant and apple fruit flavors. Still coming togeth-er, it needs to age and will be best from 2016. Fruit of the Vines, Inc. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $NA

89 Vignobles Berthier 2012 Cuvée Jean-Marie Berthier (Pouilly-Fumé). A crisp, fresh and

creamy wine, it has grapefruit acidity and a firm sense of mineral structure. The wine is developing well, but to bring out its balance between fruit and texture, it needs until 2015 in bottle. Vinamericas Selections. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $26

87 Joseph Mellot 2013 Le Troncsec (Pouilly-Fumé). This wine displays weight, richness

and intense fruits. It also has structure and a tex-ture that offers a tangy, steely character. It’s still young and needs to age, so drink from 2015. Fruit of the Vines, Inc. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $NA

SANCERRE

91 Domaine Matthias et Emile Roblin 2012 Am-monites (Sancerre). Ammonites are the fos-

sils found in the chalk soil of Sancerre. This wine certainly shows the right mineral texture, very crisp and tight. It’s full of citrus, zesty orange and apple skins. It needs to develop, wait until 2015. Vintage ’59 Imports. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $35

91 Vignobles Berthier 2012 Domaine des Clair-neaux (Sancerre). Rife with aromas of spring

flowers, this wine is crisp, full of tight acidity and has a lively, bright texture. It offers good depth of flavor, the grapefruit and green apple fruits show-ing strongly. Give it until 2015 before drinking to soften the intense acidity. Vinamericas Selections. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $26

90 Joseph Mellot 2013 Domaine des Emois (Sancerre). A single-vineyard wine, ripe

with tropical and yellow fruits and with a rich tex-ture. It is concentrated, full in the mouth with de-licious juicy acidity as well as warm fruitiness. Its texture, cut with minerality, offers the possibility of aging. Drink from 2015. Fruit of the Vines, Inc. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $NA

89 Domaine des Chaintres 2013 Sancerre. To-tally crisp and still very young, this tight,

fresh wine has currant, grapefruit and gooseberry flavor. It shows a steely, mineral edge from the chalk soil. It needs another year, wait until 2015. Fruit of the Vines, Inc. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $NA

88 Domaine des Coltabards 2013 Sancerre. A smooth and ripe wine, it’s full of yellow

fruits and pineapple, with just a touch of more her-baceous, citrus flavors. The wine is full-bodied, its acidity a gentle, juicy cut into the rich fruitiness. Drink from 2015. Fruit of the Vines, Inc. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $NA

88 Domaine Matthias et Emile Roblin 2012 L’Enclos de Maimbray (Sancerre). This rich

wine is developing slowly. Even after a year, its fruit is still youthful with bright acidity and tangy citrus. It is beginning to round out and show a riper side. Wait until 2015. Vintage ’59 Imports. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $30

88 Joseph Mellot 2013 La Chatellenie (Sancerre). This is still young to taste, its

fruitiness still developing. It has warm flavors of ripe apricots and orange peel along with apple acid-ity. It needs another year to develop, drink from 2015. Fruit of the Vines, Inc. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $NA

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54 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | AUGUST 2014

87 Domaine des Levrys 2013 Sancerre. Fruity and open, it has some steely texture but the

dominant character is ripe citrus and yellow fruits that burst out of the glass. It should age until 2015 but is already delicious. Fruit of the Vines, Inc. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $NA

87 Joseph Mellot 2013 La Gravelière (Sancerre). Smooth and rounded, it also has a more

mineral character from the gravel soil. It is tangy, full of yellow fruits, touches of citrus and lively final acidity. Give it until the end of 2014 to drink. Fruit of the Vines, Inc. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $NA

86 Domaine de Bellecours 2013 Sancerre. Crisp and grassy, this is a classic herbaceous

Sancerre. It is tight, bright and full of citrus fruits. Grapefruit dominates, cut through with acidity and the freshest aftertaste. Drink now. Fruit of the Vines, Inc. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $NA

86 Domaine Matthias et Emile Roblin 2012 Origine Blanc (Sancerre). Still fresh, this is

a crisp, herbaceous wine. It has layers of grapefruit, lime and bitter orange flavors along with a more steely texture. It’s ready to drink. Vintage ’59 Im-ports. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $30

86 Joseph Mellot 2013 Le Montarlet (Sancerre). Herbaceous and crisp, it conveys flavors

of citrus and freshly cut apple. It’s a simple, fruity wine that is ready to drink with its lively final acid-ity and tangy texture. Fruit of the Vines, Inc. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $NA

OTHER WHITE WINES

88 Château de la Roulerie 2013 Anjou. While this wine is certainly dry, it holds a hint of

honey in the baked-apple flavor and tight texture. It’s still very young and needs to open up until 2015 to give a less shocking, more rounded acidity. —R.V. abv: 12% Price: $14

88 Château de la Roulerie 2013 Coteaux du Lay-on. It would be a shame to drink this lightly

sweet wine now, even though it is delicious. Rather wait to bring out a more honeyed character, attrac-tive almond and sweet pear flavors and a fuller tex-ture. Drink from 2016. —R.V. abv: 11.5% Price: $18

88 Clos des Orefeuilles 2012 L’Odysée Minérale Sur Lie (Muscadet Sèvre et Maine). There

is a creamy texture to this ripe Muscadet, but the dominant character is very mineral and tight. Fine, fresh citrus and pink grapefruit flavors come through the texture to give a crisp, clean while rich wine. Luneau USA Inc. —R.V. abv: 12% Price: $NA

88 Jean-Michel Sorbe 2013 Reuilly. One of the leading producers in the small appellation

of Reuilly, Jean-Michel Sorbe reveals the typically soft, rounded character of this gentle wine. It has acidity, of course, along with citrus, but it remains calm, attractive and immediately drinkable. Fruit of the Vines, Inc. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $NA

88 Vignobles Berthier 2012 Domaine de Mont-benoît (Coteaux du Giennois). From vine-

yards just north of Pouilly Fumé, this is a fresh, fruity, herbaceous wine. It has a cool feel, gooseber-ry and grapefruit flavors and a touch of minerality. Drink 2014. Vinamericas Selections. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $16

88 Vignobles Berthier 2012 Terre de Silex (Co-teaux du Giennois). Crisp and intense, this

is all about herbaceous textures and pink grapefruit flavors. It is just on the edge of tartness in its acid-ity, just escaping because of its great fruitiness. It needs to calm down until late 2014. Vinamericas Selections. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $30

88 Vignoble Brisebarre 2012 Vouvray. Soft, fruity and with a ripe almond character,

this is a bone dry Chenin. It has a delicious, juicy feel, crisp with tight acidity and minerality. Drink now for its freshness. Good Company Wines. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

87 Château Moncontour 2012 Demi-Sec (Vou-vray). As the label says, the wine is off dry,

but with its great, refreshing acidity, it is also crisp and fruity. Baked apples and citrus flavors mingle with a lightly mineral texture to give a lively, fra-grant wine. Drink now. USA Wine West. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $17

86 Château de la Roulerie 2013 Le P’tit Chenin (Anjou). A bright, light and fruity wine that

is ready to drink. It has flavors of currants, juicy or-ange as well as a mineral texture and a touch of bit-ter marmalade. Drink now. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 12% Price: $11

SPARKLING WINES

91 Château Moncontour 2012 Cuvée Prédilection Brut (Vouvray). One of the top Vouvray spar-

kling wines, this 2012 is still young. That gives it almond, quince and pear flavors along with intense bright acidity. It is still missing the richer, toasty character that will come with age. Drink from 2016. USA Wine West. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. abv: 12% Price: $20

90 Bouvet-Ladubay 2011 Saphir Brut Vintage (Saumur). A full and rich wine, it is packed

with pepper and spice flavors as well as the crispest apple fruits. A young wine that could age, it is still

tight and mineral although showing a fragrant char-acter. Kobrand. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $15

88 Bouvet-Ladubay NV Rosé (Crémant de Loire). A fruity, raspberry-flavored wine

that is crisp and soft. It is deliciously full of both fruit and fresh acidity. An attractive tang of orange zest marks the end. Kobrand. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $14

ROSÉS

88 Vignobles Berthier 2012 Domaine des Clair-neaux Rosé (Sancerre). Crisp and very

clean, it holds flavors of red berries. It hints at a tannic structure that gives weight to the intense acidity of the young fruit. It should be given a few months more in bottle, so drink from late 2014. Vinamericas Selections. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $26

87 Vignoble de la Jarnoterie 2013 Quintessence Rosé (Saint-Nicolas-de-Bourgueil). This is

brilliantly fruity, very crisp and fragrant, with deli-cious spice, perfumed red fruits and lively acidity. It’s very dry, with a fresh aftertaste. European Wine Imports. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $17

86 Domaine Matthias et Emile Roblin 2013 Orig-ine Rosé Rosé (Sancerre). A fragrant, fresh

rosé that is full of red fruits and tight acidity. Crisp and bright, it makes a delicious summer refresher. Drink now. Vintage ’59 Imports. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $30

86 Joseph Mellot 2012 Le Rabault Rosé (Sancerre). Immediately attractive red fruit

flavors are cut with delicious acidity. This is a crisp, fruity wine, fresh with just a tang of orange peel, ready to drink now. Fruit of the Vines, Inc. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $NA

86 Jourdan & Pichard 2013 Fine S Rosé (Chi-non). Lightly spiced and with attractive

acidity, this is a smooth and rich wine. The Cab-ernet Franc gives a perfumed character while also bringing out acidity. It is fresh and very crisp at the end. Acid Inc Selections. —R.V. abv: 12% Price: $20

RED WINES

91 Vignoble de la Jarnoterie 2012 Quintessence (Saint-Nicolas-de-Bourgueil). While still

young, this wine has a smooth texture that shows the black fruits and perfumed tannins well. The bal-ance of acidity and rich fruitiness is underpinned by the drier, tannic core. Drink young and fruity, but better wait until 2016. European Wine Imports. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $18

WINEMAG.COM | 55

90 Vignoble de la Jarnoterie 2010 Quintessence Vieilles Vignes (Saint-Nicolas-de-Bour-

gueil). This concentrated wine has dark tannins as well as perfumed red fruits, blackberry flavors and a dense structure. The old vines give extra inten-sity and the need to age. Drink from 2016. European Wine Imports. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $20

89 Domaine Grosbois 2011 Gabare (Chinon). Smooth and rich, it’s full of ripe berry fruits

along with rounded tannins that are well placed to give structure. It shows a warm vision of cool-climate Cabernet Franc, giving only a slight hint of stalkiness at the end. Cape Classics. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $30

89 Domaine Matthias et Emile Roblin 2012 Origine Rouge (Sancerre). A wine with great

color, attractive smoky and red fruit flavors and a touch of tannin. It has a good structure as well, re-flecting wood aging as well as fine fruit. Drink from 2016. Vintage ’59 Imports. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $40

88 Domaine Grosbois 2011 Clos du Noyer (Chi-non). A balanced, fruity, smoky wine, it has

fine red fruits and still-firm tannins. The structure tells a tale of aging ability while the fruit is there for those who want to drink the wine young. Ideally, wait until 2016. Cape Classics. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $50

88 Vignoble de la Jarnoterie 2011 Quintes-sence (Saint-Nicolas-de-Bourgueil). Tight

and stalky, the wine seems to be going through a strangely muted phase. It is full of firm tannins, black currant acidity and a tough aftertaste. It need time to open up; drink from 2015. European Wine Imports. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $17

87 Domaine Matthias et Emile Roblin 2012 Grande Côte de la Vallée (Sancerre). This is

a perfumed, stalky wine. It suggests fragrant red fruits and crushed raspberry flavors that contrast with the smoky flavor and strong acidity. At the end, red currants dominate. Vintage ’59 Imports. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $NA

86 Domaine Grosbois 2012 La Cuisine de Ma Mère (Chinon). The lightest possible Chi-

non, very fruity and lightly tannic, this is a deli-cious, jammy, ripe and fresh wine. It is all black cur-rants and berries with acidity adding its burst at the end. Drink now. Cape Classics. —R.V. abv: 11.5% Price: $22

85 Château de la Roulerie 2013 Anjou. This shows the fruity side of Cabernet Franc. No

wood aging, just red fruits, spice and stalky tannins, with a hint of smokiness and a light structure. Drink from 2015. —R.V. abv: 12% Price: $13

LANGUEDOC-ROUSSILLON

ROSÉS

90 Château de Lancyre 2013 Rosé (Coteaux du Languedoc Pic Saint Loup). This blend

of 50% Syrah, 40% Grenache and 10% Cinsault is bold and lively, with aromas and flavors of ripe raspberry, red cherry and white melon, framed by hints of garrigue. The subtly textured palate lends structure and depth, with ample acidity providing lift and balance. Pair this with simple grilled meat or chicken. Hand Picked Selections. —L.B. abv: 13.5% Price: $21

89 Chateau du Donjon 2013 Rosé (Minervois). A bright and aromatic selection, this leads

with fragrances of strawberry, cherry, talc, peony and white tea. The light-weight palate is extremely lively and attractive, with tart, zippy flavors of cran-berry and melon rind that transition to attractive garrigue and white-flower tones on the finish. Hand Picked Selections. —L.B. abv: 12.5% Price: $17

89 Côté Mas 2012 Rosé Aurore Rosé (Pays d’Oc). For full review see page 7. Best Buy.

abv: 13% Price: $12

89 Domaine Montrose 2013 La Balade Rosé (Côtes de Thongue). A well-balanced and

layered selection, subtle floral aromas of peony and sweet pea complement the fruity scents of red cherry, strawberry and watermelon. A soft sweet-spice accent adds interest to the palate, with a slight creaminess to the midpalate that’s lifted by ample acidity, finishing clean. Cream Wine Com-pany. —L.B. abv: 13% Price: $20

89 Vignobles Jeanjean 2013 Domaine Le Pive Gris Rosé (Sable de Camargue). An extreme-

ly pale blush color, hints of banana and peach accent aromas of ripe strawberries and raspberries. Light weight and refreshing, this boasts zippy acidity and a fruity, mouthwatering palate that ends brisk and clean. Hand Picked Selections. —L.B. abv: 12% Price: $16

88 Bernard Magrez 2013 Bleu de Mer Rosé (Pays d’Oc). This opens with mealy aromas of

watermelon and cherry that smell rich and full. The palate offers a bit more restraint, with focused flavors of tart cherry and berry that are framed by prickly acidity. The finish is short, but crisp and mouthwatering. Terra Firma USA Inc. —L.B. abv: 12% Price: $16

88 Château d’Anglès 2013 Classique Mourvèdre-Syrah-Grenache Rosé (La Clape). Nuanced

and delicate, this offers subtle aromas of garrigue, melon rind, white cherry and underripe peach. The

palate is firm and tart, and flavors of orange zest and green banana linger through the flavorful, mouth-watering finish. Demontoux Fine Wines. —L.B. abv: 13.5% Price: $17

87 Château Cabezac 2012 La Tradition Rosé (Mi-nervois). Here’s a friendly, accessible and

value-priced rosé that’s perfect for warm-weather entertaining. Ripe cherry, plum and raspberry flood the nose and mouth, with a soft dusting of cocoa that adds interest and decadence. The ripe flavors are full and jammy, but balanced by medium acid-ity that keeps the palate fresh and the finish clean. Fruit of the Vines, Inc. Best Buy. —L.B. abv: 13.5% Price: $11

87 Chateau Saint Nabor 2012 Domaine Saint Na-bor Gris de Nabor Rosé (Gard). The bouquet

of this rosé is soft and delicate, with subtle notes of strawberry hull, watermelon rind and white-plum flesh. The mouthfeel is light, but with a slight roundness to the midpalate, with a lightly bitter-lime flavor that adds zip to the finish. Marquee Se-lections. —L.B. abv: 12.5% Price: $13

87 Domaine Montrose 2013 Rosé (Côtes de Thongue). There are attractive floral and

garrigue tones to the subtle fruit core of this wine, with hints of white cherry, melon rind and straw-berry hull. The lively palate offers brisk acidity and lively tart-fruit flavors. A touch of white chocolate echos on the medium-length finish. Cream Wine Company. Best Buy. —L.B. abv: 12.5% Price: $12

87 Domaine Cabirau 2013 Rosé (Côtes du Rous-sillon). A crushed carnation aroma accents

the ripe fruit core of strawberry, raspberrry and mango on this selection. The palate is juicy and fruit forward, with red berry flavors, medium acidity and a subtle earthy spice that unfolds on the finish. Hand Picked Selections. —L.B. abv: 13% Price: $15

87 Fortant 2012 Coast Select Grenache Rosé (Pays d’Oc). Delicate and dainty, this pretty

selection boasts soft aromas and flavors of white cherry, bergamot tea, orange rind and hard peach. Light weight and refreshing, the lively acidity keeps the palate brisk and the fruit flavors fresh. Boisset Family Estates. Best Buy. —L.B. abv: 12.5% Price: $11

87 Penya 2013 Grenache-Syrah (Côtes Cat-alanes). This Grenache-based rosé, with 4%

Syrah, opens with a mélange of fruity aromas that carry through to the palate. Notes of peach, guava, cherry, banana and melon are accented by a hint of garrigue. It’s medium weight, with ample acidity to lift the ripe fruit flavors. Hand Picked Selections. Best Buy. —L.B. abv: 13.5% Price: $12

BUYINGGUIDE

56 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | AUGUST 2014

87 Pierre Qui Roule 2012 Rolling Stone Grenache Rosé (Pays d’Oc). Hints of overripe peach

and mealy apple indicate a rich, ripe style of rosé, but are immediately followed by accents of green melon, plum and menthol, adding balance and tension. Medium weight, with ample acidity that keeps the ripe fruit flavors balanced and refreshing through the finish. Cellar Door Selections. Best Buy. —L.B. abv: 13.5% Price: $10

86 Domaine de Jarras 2013 Pink Flamingo Tête de Cuvée Gris de Gris Rosé (Sable de Camar-

gue). There’s a slight cobbler-like character to the nose of this wine, with mealy scents of peach bubble gum, banana and strawberry. The palate is more lin-ear, with a pronounced line of acidity and flavors of green banana and orange citrus. Vranken America. —L.B. abv: 12.5% Price: $13

86 Domaine Sainte-Eugénie 2013 Rosé (Cor-bières). A fruit-forward rosé, this offers

aromas and flavors of juicy strawberry and cherry that are mixed with accents of white-flower and menthol. A hint of white-tea astringency adds tex-ture to the palate, finishing dry and clean. Robert Kacher Selections. —L.B. abv: 13% Price: $12

86 Fat Bastard 2013 Rosé (Vin de Pays d’Oc). A bright salmon color, this playful selection

is bright and easy drinking. Aromas and flavors of melon rind, sweet pea, red cherry and cranberry fill the nose and mouth, with bright acidity that keeps the palate fresh and the finish clean. Winebow. —L.B. abv: 13% Price: $12

86 Hecht & Bannier 2013 Rosé (Languedoc). Medium-pink in color, this looks immedi-

ately vibrant and fruity. Scents of mealy plum, berry and watermelon fill the bouquet, while the palate offers more austere flavors of red currant and sour pomegranate. Tart and sharp in acidity, the finish is short and brisk. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —L.B. abv: 12.5% Price: $15

86 Listel 2013 Tête de Cuvée Grain de Gris Rosé (Sable de Camargue). Light and bright, this

is a direct and easygoing rosé, with attractive aro-mas and flavors of red currant, ruby-red grapefruit rind, white melon and peach. The medium-weight palate is lifted by refreshing, citrus-flavored acidity, ending with an orange and strawberry-hull fueled finish. Vranken America. Best Buy. —L.B. abv: 12.5% Price: $10

85 Laroche 2013 Rosé de la Chevalière Rosé (Pays d’Oc). Red fruits and light acidity

are paired in this simple, fresh rosé. It is light and bright with just a touch of warmth to bring out the

sunshine. Drink now. Screwcap. Wilson Daniels Ltd. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $NA

85 Le Cirque 2013 Rosé (Vin de Pays des Côtes Catalanes). Scents of plum, orange rind,

banana and a touch of mentholated herb unfold on the nose, while the palate offers fruit-skin flavors of plum and cherry, lending a slightly tannic structure. Hand Picked Selections. —L.B. abv: 12.5% Price: $15

85 Vignobles Sarrail 2013 Esprit de Sarrail Rosé (Vin de Pays Cité de Carcassonne). A fruity

and fragrant selection, with upfront aromas of ripe strawberries, banana and peaches and cream. There’s a bit more tension on the palate, with brac-ing acidity and flavors of small, tart red berries and white cherry. David Milligan Selections. —L.B. abv: 12% Price: $11

84 Domaine Vaquer 2013 L’Ephémère Rosé (Côtes du Roussillon). Rich aromas of va-

nilla custard, raspberry sauce and strawberries and cream immediately waft from the glass and continue through to the round, lush palate. The mouthfeel is a bit flat, begging for more acidic lift to keep the ripe flavors in balance. Hand Picked Selections. —L.B. abv: 13.8% Price: $NA

84 Villa des Anges 2013 Old Vines Rosé (Pays d’Oc). An easy and bright selection, this of-

fers direct aromas and flavors of red currant, under-ripe strawberry and a touch of banana. The palate is light, with low-intensity flavors and a short, clean finish. Hand Picked Selections. —L.B. abv: 12% Price: $11

GERMANYRIESLING

AUSLESE

94 Fritz Haag 2012 Brauneberger Juffer Ries-ling Auslese Goldkapsel (Mosel). Scents of

lemon candy and tangerine accent intense flavors of honeysuckle, peach and mango on this deeply penetrating sweet Riesling. Brisk with acidity, it’s delicate and dancing on the palate, but a honeyed richness coats the tongue deliciously. Finishes long with a kiss of saffron and blossoms. Rudi Wiest Se-lections. —A.I. abv: 7.5% Price: $42/375 ml

94 Fritz Haag 2012 Brauneberger Juffer Son-nenuhr Riesling Auslese Goldkapsel (Mosel).

While it’s hard to go wrong with any of Fritz Haag’s gorgeously sunny 2012 auslesen, the goldkapsels truly exemplify the pristine lusciousness of stone fruit and mango. Lemon acidity sings through the midpalate, highlighting nuanced shades of spice, mineral and earth that linger on the finish. Deca-

dent yet impeccably balanced. Rudi Wiest Selec-tions. —A.I. abv: 7.5% Price: $52/375 ml

92 Fritz Haag 2012 Brauneberger Juffer Riesling Auslese (Mosel). Fresh apple and lemon aro-

mas are subtly accented with hints of saffron on this spicy-sweet Riesling full of ripe yellow-cherry and nectarine flavors. Piercing lemon-lime acidity lends a nervous, dancing quality to the palate. It finishes with a murmur of jasmine-tea astringency. Rudi Wiest Selections. —A.I. abv: 7.5% Price: $46

91 Fritz Haag 2012 Brauneberger Juffer Son-nenuhr Riesling Auslese (Mosel). A whiff of

pine frond lends a cool alpine touch to unctuously ripe yellow-cherry and peach flavors on this sweet, sunny Riesling. Sprightly on the palate with shim-mering touches of acidity and minerals, it finishes elegantly with a hint of lemon zest astringency. Rudi Wiest Selections. —A.I. abv: 7.5% Price: $56

89 Fritz Haag 2012 Brauneberger Juffer Son-nenuhr Riesling Auslese #10 (Mosel). Sa-

vory spice and earth tones on the nose fade into su-perripe flavors of mango, peach and orange on this fleshy, sweet Riesling. Piercing lemon acidity lends levity and verve to the palate before wrapping up the tart-sweet finish nicely. Rudi Wiest Selections. —A.I. abv: 7% Price: $60

SPÄTLESE

94 Reichsgraf von Kesselstatt 2012 Schar-zhofberger GL Riesling Spätlese (Mosel).

Exuberant in perfume, it conveys heady notes of honey, tangerine and mimosa that linger gorgeously through the palate. It’s delicate in mouthfeel, yet al-most shockingly penetrating with sweet peach and citrus flavors accented with punchy lemon acid-ity. Finishes long with an elegant swathe of green florals. Valckenberg International, Inc. Editors’ Choice. —A.I. abv: 8% Price: $45

94 Robert Weil 2012 Kiedrich Gräfenberg Ries-ling Spätlese (Rheingau). A complex array

of floral tones builds throughout this medium-sweet Riesling. Green notes of iris and lily add refreshment to a backdrop of heady jasmine and orange blossom. The palate is intensely fruity with juicy white peach and apricot flavors accented with a zesty lime acid-ity that revitalizes. Delicately framed, yet decadent and ebullient. Loosen Bros. USA. —A.I. abv: 8.5% Price: $92

94 Robert Weil 2012 Kiedrich Turmberg Riesling Spätlese (Rheingau). Honey and saffron ac-

cent pristine peach and floral aromas on this wine from Robert Weil’s historic “tower hill” vineyard. It’s extravagantly ripe with yellow stone-fruit and

WINEMAG.COM | 57

tangerine flavors, yet dancing on the palate with zesty lime acidity and a shimmering mineral streak that lingers on the finish. Complex and penetrating from start to finish. Loosen Bros. USA. —A.I. abv: 8.5% Price: $92

93 Bischöfliche Weingüter Trier 2012 Scharshof-berger Riesling Spätlese (Mosel). For full re-

view see page 3. abv: 8.5% Price: $30

93 Domdechant Werner 2012 Hochheimer Dom-dechaney Riesling Spätlese (Rheingau).

Green floral notes and juicy, ripe white peaches perfume this complex medium-sweet Riesling. It’s ethereal on the palate but penetrating with stone fruit flavors and a sunny, bright tangerine acidity. Finishes with a lingering slick of wet-stone mineral-ity. Slocum & Sons, Inc. —A.I. abv: 8.5% Price: $35

93 Maximin Grünhäuser 2012 Abtsberg Riesling Spätlese (Mosel). Blossomy and fresh with

apple and pear aromas, this sprightly wine seems to flit and quiver on the palate with its piercing grape-fruit acidity. Fresh and fruity with hints of quince jelly and lemon candy, it finishes long with a gor-geously honeyed, floral finish. Loosen Bros. USA. —A.I. abv: 7.5% Price: $45

92 Schloss Saarstein 2012 Serrig Schloss Saa-rsteiner Riesling Spätlese (Mosel). Clean,

green floral notes add refreshment to aromas of white peach and apricot on this superripe Riesling. It’s lively and fresh with streaks of lime acidity. A shimmering minerality accents sweet mango, honey and saffron flavors. Finishes long with a lacy fringe of sweetness. Valckenberg International, Inc. —A.I. abv: 8.5% Price: $38

91 Fritz Haag 2012 Brauneberger Juffer Son-nenuhr Riesling Spätlese (Mosel). Layers of

smoke, spice and lanolin cast a shadowy tone to summery peach and tangerine flavors on this semi-sweet Riesling. Nuances of mineral, spice and fruit build in intensity on the palate, augmented by brisk lemony acidity. Finishes long with a delicate lace of sweetness. Rudi Wiest Selections. —A.I. abv: 7.5% Price: $44

91 Fritz Haag 2012 Brauneberger Juffer Son-nenuhr Riesling Spätlese #14 (Mosel). Touch-

es of candlewax and savory herbs add intrigue and complexity to bright, sunny peach and apricot fla-vors in this semi-sweet wine. Vivacious and brisk, the palate plays out like a joyful tug-o-war of tan-gerine acidity and a lingering sweetness that’s so refreshingly tasty. Rudi Wiest Selections. —A.I. abv: 7% Price: $NA

91 Prinz zu Salm-Dalberg’Sches Weingut Im Schloss Wallhausen 2012 Berg Roxheim

Grosse Lage Riesling Spätlese (Nahe). Aromas of honey and freesia penetrate from start to finish on

this fruity wine sourced from one of Prinz zu Salm’s finest vineyard sites. Ethereal on the palate, it bal-ances penetrating stone-fruit flavors with nervous lemon acidity and whiffs of orange rind and spice on the finish. Valckenberg International, Inc. —A.I. abv: 7.5% Price: $49

91 Reichsgraf von Kesselstatt 2012 Piesporter Goldtröpfchen GL Riesling Spätlese (Mosel).

Fresh herb and green floral aromas lend a breezy, invigorating character to sweet yellow peach and honey flavors in this medium-sweet Riesling. Rich and fruity, yet bristling with tart tangerine acidity, it’s a deeply satisfying sipper. Valckenberg Interna-tional, Inc. —A.I. abv: 8% Price: $46

91 St. Urbans-Hof 2012 Ockfener Bockstein Zick-elgarten Erste Lage Riesling Spätlese (Mosel).

Initial aromas of savory spice and earth subside, revealing luscious apricot, peach and yellow-cher-ry flavors on this delicate Riesling. Semi-sweet in style, it’s nuanced with shades of dusty minerals and a pretty floral spray that lingers on the finish. HB Wine Merchants. —A.I. abv: 8% Price: $75

91 St. Urbans-Hof 2012 Piesporter Goldtröpfchen Erste Lage Riesling Spätlese (Mosel). Upfront

aromas of smoke and spring ramps subside to re-veal delicate apple blossom notes on this honeyed, medium-sweet wine. Ripe, rich yellow peach and cantaloupe flavors flood the palate, yet wrap up re-markably dry with a lingering finish that’s intense with minerality. It’s gorgeously styled, yet elegant and dainty. HB Wine Merchants. —A.I. abv: 8% Price: $42

90 Fritz Haag 2012 Brauneberger Juffer Riesling Spätlese (Mosel). Slightly earthy, savory

tones of lanolin and herb lend complexity to a pal-ate that’s lavish with peach and quince jelly flavors. Semi-sweet in style, it’s quaffable and refreshing with its fruity exuberance offset by a cutting, stark acidity. Rudi Wiest Selections. —A.I. abv: 8% Price: $38

90 Robert Weil 2012 Tradition Riesling Spät-lese (Rheingau). Whiffs of earth and spring

ramps subside, exposing sunny peach and floral notes on this medium-sweet wine. The palate is satisfyingly juicy with honeyed peach and pear fla-vors, but anchored with a deep, savory complexity. Finishes long with sweet-tart citrus flavors and a murmur of dusty minerals. Loosen Bros. USA. —A.I. abv: 8.5% Price: $40

90 St. Urbans-Hof 2011 Ockfener Bockstein Zickelgarten Erste Lage Riesling Spätlese

(Mosel). Whiffs of smoke and earth lend a dusty mineral tone to this lusciously tropical, yet remark-ably nuanced, wine. The palate is full of sweet man-go and pineapple flavors cut with tart lemon-lime

acidity. Finishes long with an elegantly mineral flair. HB Wine Merchants. —A.I. abv: 9% Price: $70

89 Bollig-Lehnert 2012 Piesperter Goldtröp-fchen Riesling Spätlese (Mosel). Smoky

and savory with a touch of spring ramps and moss, this medium-sweet Riesling balances ripe, luscious peach and nectarine flavors with a gradation of green, herbal accents. It’s delicately framed with a steely, honed acidity that lingers on the finish. Wi-nesellers Ltd. —A.I. abv: 8.5% Price: $21

89 Dr. H. Thanisch (Erben Müller-Burggraef) 2012 Braunberger Juffer-Sonnenuhr Riesling

Spatlëse (Mosel). While delicate on the nose with hints of lemon, white blossom and crushed stones, this dainty spätlese builds in intensity the palate. Juicy sweet peach and apricot flavors are mouth-watering, finishing long on a puckering sweet-tart note. Winesellers Ltd. —A.I. abv: 8% Price: $28

89 Paul Anheuser 2012 Kreuznacher Kahlen-berg Riesling Spätlese (Nahe). While fairly

neutral on the nose with subtle aromas of apple and lemon, this off-dry Riesling is lush and fruity on the palate with flavors of white grapefruit and quince jelly. It’s straightforward, but finishes elegantly with a reverberating tea-leaf astringency. Winesell-ers Ltd. —A.I. abv: 10.5% Price: $19

89 Prinz zu Salm-Dalberg’Sches Weingut Im Schloss Wallhausen 2012 Felseneck Wall-

hausen Grosse Lage Riesling Spätlese (Nahe). Heady aromatics of ripe tropical fruit and flowers accent this succulent semi-sweet wine full of tangerine and yellow peach flavors. Sunny citrus acidity shines a light on the mid palate. Finishes moderately long with delicate mineral complexities. Valckenberg In-ternational, Inc. —A.I. abv: 9% Price: $55

89 St. Urbans-Hof 2012 Ockfener Bockstein Er-ste Lage Riesling Spätlese (Mosel). While

subdued on the nose with aromas of pressed apple and lemon, this semi-sweet wine is surprisingly fresh and floral on the palate with ripe, juicy flavors of yellow plums and cherries. Searing lime acidity adds brightness and drives a moderately long finish. HB Wine Merchants. —A.I. abv: 7.5% Price: $34

88 Dr. Fischer 2012 Ockfener Bockstein Ries-ling Spatlëse (Mosel). Slightly savory with

tones of pressed apple and pear, this medium-sweet Riesling balances ripe yellow-peach and quince flavors with an earthy minerality that’s intriguing. Bright tangerine acidity drives a long, sunny finish. Winesellers Ltd. —A.I. abv: 8% Price: $24

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58 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | AUGUST 2014

88 Leonard Kreusch 2012 Piesporter Goldtröp-fchen Riesling Spätlese (Mosel). Delicately

aromatic with apple blossom, this brisk medium-sweet wine dances on the palate with hints of honey-kissed nectarines and peach. Dusty saffron and mineral tones lend an earthiness that linger on the finish. Elegant and refreshing. Leonard Kreusch, Inc. —A.I. abv: 8% Price: $15

KABINETT

91 Dr. Loosen 2012 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Ries-ling Kabinett (Mosel). There’s a revitalizing

swathe of herbs on the nose of this medium-sweet Riesling, highlighting notes of lemon and lime against a backdrop of juicy, ripe yellow peaches and nectarines. It’s delicately lacy on the palate, yet bol-stered by tones of honey and wax. A citrus acidity that pierces long on the finish. Loosen Bros. USA. —A.I. abv: 8% Price: $28

90 Dr. Heidemanns-Bergweiler 2012 Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Kabinett (Mosel).

While the nose has savory hints of walnut and dried herb amid pressed apple and mineral tones, the pal-ate is lavishly floral and peachy. Intense streaks of honey are offset by bracing lemon-lime acidity and a long mineral finish. Refreshing and lively. Saranty Imports. —A.I. abv: 8% Price: $20

90 Dr. Heidemanns-Bergweiler 2012 Wehle-ner Klosterberg Riesling Kabinett (Mosel).

While aromatically subdued with delicate notes of lemon, lime and minerals, a streak of honey builds throughout this medium-sweet wine. It adds deca-dence to sweet, ripe flavors of pear, apple and hibis-cus nectar on the palate. It’s tasty, bright and pen-etrating. Saranty Imports. Best Buy. —A.I. abv: 8% Price: $15

90 Dr. Pauly Bergweiler 2012 Wehlener Son-nenuhr Riesling Kabinett (Mosel). Initial

impressions are smoky and savory, but the nose opens to reveal aromas of freshly pressed apple, lemon and crushed minerals. The palate is ripe with sunny tangerine and yellow peach flavors, but moderated with piercingly tart lemon-lime acidity. Finishes moderately long on a sumptuous honey-tangerine note. Winesellers Ltd. —A.I. abv: 8% Price: $26

90 Johannishof 2012 Johannisberg V Riesling Kabinett (Rheingau). Hints of lemongrass

and blossom lend lavish perfume to flavors of peach and cantaloupe in this ripe, richly fruity wine. Me-dium-sweet in style, it’s backed by a piercing lem-on acidity and zest notes that linger on the finish. Valckenberg International, Inc. —A.I. abv: 9% Price: $26

90 Reichsgraf von Kesselstatt 2012 Scharzof-berger GL Riesling Kabinett (Mosel). While

fairly neutral on the nose with aromas of lemon and pressed apple, this off-dry wine is chock full of concentrated yellow-cherry, peach and nectarine flavors. Piercing citrus acidity jolts the palate, driv-ing a long, honey-touched finish. Refreshing and invigorating. Valckenberg International, Inc. —A.I. abv: 10.5% Price: $31

90 Schloss Saarstein 2012 Serrig Schloss Saa-rsteiner Riesling Kabinett (Mosel). Softly

perfumed blossoms waft amidst fresh apple and pear on this fruity, floral wine. Medium-sweet in style, it balances rich nectarine and peach flavors with sprightly lemon lime acidity. Lingering mineral tones lend complexity to the finish. Valckenberg In-ternational, Inc. —A.I. abv: 8% Price: $27

90 Schloss Vollrads 2012 Riesling Kabinett (Rheingau). For full review see page 6.

abv: 9.5% Price: $25

89 Domdechant Werner 2012 Hochheimer Ries-ling Kabinett (Rheingau). Upfront aromas

of savory herbs and pressed apple lend an earthy feel to this medium-sweet wine. It opens gradually to reveal a pretty perfume of jasmine and lavender that penetrates long on the palate. It’s juicy with sweet white-grapefruit flavor, and finishes tight with zesty lime and lemon astringency. Slocum & Sons, Inc. —A.I. abv: 10% Price: $19

89 Dr. H. Thanisch (Erben Müller-Burggraef) 2012 Berncasteler Doctor Riesling Kabinett

(Mosel). While subtle on the nose with lemon and apple aromas accented with hints of white flowers and spice, this medium-sweet Riesling is concen-trated with sweet-tart yellow plum and cherry fla-vors. It’s a sunny, cheerful wine with bright tanger-ine acidity offsetting a deliciously honeyed finish. Winesellers Ltd. —A.I. abv: 8% Price: $42

89 Friedrich-Wilhelm-Gymnasium 2012 Graach-er Himmelreich Riesling Kabinett (Mosel).

Nutty, slightly earthy tones lend a savoriness to lush, ripe apricot and peach flavors. It’s juicy and sweet, yet refreshing on the palate with zesty lime acidity and a pleasant astringency that lingers on the finish. Schmitt-Söhne USA. —A.I. abv: 8.5% Price: $22

89 Prinz von Hessen 2012 Royal Riesling Kabi-nett (Rheingau). Whiffs of lanolin, lime and

mineral accent the steely, stony flavors in this dry, medium-bodied wine. Concentrated flavors of lime and lemon lend an invigorating briskness to the pal-ate. An ideal summer dinner wine to pair with sea-food or fowl. Folio Fine Wine Partners. —A.I. abv: 12% Price: $25

89 Reichsgraf von Kesselstatt 2012 Graach Jo-sephshöfer GL Riesling Kabinett (Mosel).

A whiff of orange blossoms accents bright Meyer lemon and quince flavors on this zesty, invigorat-ing wine. Off-dry in style, it’s unabashedly fruity yet wraps up elegantly with a murmur of lime-skin astringency. Valckenberg International, Inc. —A.I. abv: 11% Price: $31

88 Dr. H. Thanisch (Erben Müller-Burggraef) 2012 Bernkasteler Badstube Riesling Kabi-

nett (Mosel). Spice and smoke aromas contribute to a slightly earthy, savory opening on this sweet-tart Riesling full of brisk tangerine and grapefruit flavors. Nervy acidity and intense mineral tones ex-tend through the moderately long finish. Winesell-ers Ltd. —A.I. abv: 8.5% Price: $22

88 Dr. Pauly Bergweiler 2012 Bernkasteler Bad-stube Riesling Kabinett (Mosel). A spray of

orange blossom lends flair to fresh apple and lemon aromas on this ripe, juicy wine. Medium sweet in style, it’s luscious with peach and mango nectar, but elegantly cut by a shower of lemon acidity. Finishes moderately long. Winesellers Ltd. —A.I. abv: 8.5% Price: $22

88 Paul Anheuser 2012 Schlossböckelheimer Königsfels Riesling Kabinett (Nahe). A wisp

of smoke accents subtle aromas of lemon and apple on this off-dry Riesling. While diminutive in body, touches of honey give the palate roundness and richness, as well as adding delicate sweetness to fla-vors of fresh apple and pear. Winesellers Ltd. —A.I. abv: 9% Price: $16

88 Richard Böcking 2012 M Trarbacher Burgberg Riesling Kabinett (Mosel). Whiffs of pine

fronds and herbs lend a green tone to this dainty medium-sweet wine. Steely and lean, it’s refresh-ingly quaffable with sweet-tart pineapple and grapefruit flavors that linger nervously on the fin-ish. Kysela Père et Fils. —A.I. abv: 7% Price: $35

88 Robert Weil 2012 Tradition Riesling Kabinett (Rheingau). Spice and herb notes accent

smoke and earth on this bristling off-dry Riesling. The palate boasts pretty floral tones against ripe white-grapefruit and peach flavors, along with an acidic backbone that drives the finish long and steely. Loosen Bros. USA. —A.I. abv: 9% Price: $30

86 Leonard Kreusch 2012 Bernkasteler Kurfürstlay Riesling Kabinett (Mosel). Dusty

potpourri and mineral tones lend an earthy tone to this lean, off-dry wine. It’s fresh with lemon, lime and quince flavors, but straightforward in style with a brisk, herbal finish. Leonard Kreusch, Inc. —A.I. abv: 9.5% Price: $14

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FEINHERB & HALBTROCKEN

91 Dr. H. Thanisch (Erben Müller-Burggraef) 2012 Estate Riesling Feinherb (Mosel). Lav-

ishly ripe, juicy nectarine and yellow peach flavors flood the nose and palate of this off-dry Riesling. It’s creamy in texture with rich layers of honey and wax, yet impeccably balanced with a zesty lime acidity that jolts the long, lingering finish. Winesellers Ltd. —A.I. abv: 11.5% Price: $20

91 St. Urbans-Hof 2012 Nik Weis Wiltinger Alte Reben Ortswein Riesling Kabinett Feinherb

(Mosel). Zesty lemon and lime aromas add elegance to unctuous white peach and apricot flavors on this delicate, yet remarkably complex wine. Off-dry in style, it balances a youthful fruit profile with nu-anced shades of smoke and earth. Nervy citrus acidity drives a long, focused finish. HB Wine Mer-chants. —A.I. abv: 10% Price: $19

90 Baron Knyphausen 2012 Kiedrich Ortslage Riesling Kabinett Feinherb (Rheingau).

Whiffs of blossom accent fresh apple aromas on this just off-dry Riesling. The palate is intensely fruity with ripe, rich apricot and white peach flavors yet cut with bristling lime acidity. Refreshing yet deeply satisfying. Valckenberg International, Inc. —A.I. abv: 11% Price: $31

90 Dr. Nägler 2012 Rüdesheimer Riesling Halb-trocken (Rheingau). Whiffs of ripe red ber-

ries and stone fruit lend a particularly fruity tone to this just off-dry Riesling. While medium bodied in style, sumptuously ripe flavors of peach and nectar-ine give the palate a distinct plumpness. Wraps up tart and tight with a shower of citrus acidity. Wine-sellers Ltd. —A.I. abv: 11% Price: $16

88 Villa Huesgen 2012 Enkircher Steffensberg Riesling Kabinett Feinherb (Mosel). Streaks

of lanolin and petrol lend a savory, mineral intensity to this off-dry wine. Concentrated yellow peach and nectarine flavors penetrate deeply on the palate, but the moderately long finish reflects its earthier, spicier side. Quintessential Wines. —A.I. abv: 10.5% Price: $40

87 Baron Knyphausen 2012 Riesling Feinherb (Rheingau). Fresh sage and tarragon notes

lend a lovely green, herbal tone to this just off-dry wine. The palate is refreshing with lemony acidity and straightforward apple and pear flavors. Valck-enberg International, Inc. —A.I. abv: 11% Price: $30

TROCKEN

93 August Kesseler 2012 Rüdesheim Berg Schlossberg Qualitätswein Grosses Gewächs

Riesling Trocken (Rheingau). Hints of pine and for-est floor lend a cool, alpine feel to elegant white peach and blossom notes in this dry-style Riesling. The palate is ripe, rich and dense with stone fruit flavor, yet balanced with bracing lime acidity and fresh, green herb notes that linger brightly on the finish. Vineyard Brands. —A.I. abv: 12.5% Price: $77

92 August Kesseler 2012 Rüdesheim Berg Rose-neck Qualitätswein Grosses Gewächs Ries-

ling Trocken (Rheingau). Heady aromas of honey-suckle, peach and herb hint to the complexity of this dry-style Riesling. The palate is ripe and rich with yellow peach and nectarine flavors plus a creamy, mouthfilling texture. Lemon-lime acidity strikes through the finish, leaving the tongue with just a murmur of honey and spice. Vineyard Brands. —A.I. abv: 12.5% Price: $69

91 Robert Weil 2012 Kiedrich Gräfenberg GG Ries-ling Trocken (Rheingau). Exotic spice notes

accent aromas of blossom and lemon curd on this intensely seductive wine. Dry and voluminous in style with a round and slightly slick mouth feel, the palate is concentrated with rich melon, peach and apricot flavors. Steely minerality and bristling lime acidity lend power and structure to the finish. Loosen Bros. USA. —A.I. abv: 13% Price: $92

91 Villa Huesgen 2012 Trabener Würzgarten Schiefer Riesling Tocken (Mosel). This sum-

mery Riesling wafts of ripe yellow cherries and blos-soms. Dry in style with a rich, rounded mouthfeel, it’s deeply concentrated with stone fruit flavors ac-cented by hints of waxy lemon and lime skin. It’s delicious now for its fragrant, fruity exuberance, but likely to develop its waxy, mineral complexities through 2019–2021. Quintessential Wines. —A.I. abv: 12% Price: $35

90 Dr. Heidemanns-Bergweiler 2012 Dry Ries-ling (Mosel). Scents of fresh apple and pear

are accented with touches of wax and mineral on this nuanced, dry Riesling. The palate feels lush and fruity with ripe peach and pear flavors, but zesty lime acidity and a shower of minerality lend stately elegance. A surprisingly bold wine for a diminutive price. Drink now. Saranty Imports. Best Buy. —A.I. abv: 12% Price: $15

90 Dr. Pauly Bergweiler 2012 Dry Riesling (Mo-sel). Whiffs of spice accent aromas of or-

ange blossom and fresh pears on this dry, richly textured wine. Ripe pineapple and tangerine flavors are unabashedly mouthwatering, but elevated by a piercing mineral focus that drives the finish. Effort-less yet elegant in style. Winesellers Ltd. —A.I. abv: NA Price: $NA

90 Fritz Haag 2012 Brauneberger Riesling Trocken (Mosel). While a tad savory on the

nose with a fine dusting of minerals, this medium-bodied wine is juicy with white grapefruit and nec-

tarine flavors. Just a shade off dry in style, it boasts a soft, sunny limeade acidity that lingers on the fin-ish. Loosen Bros. USA. —A.I. abv: 12% Price: $32

90 Prinz zu Salm-Dalberg’Sches Weingut Im Schloss Wallhausen 2012 Rotschiefer Ries-

ling Trocken (Nahe). Penetrating tones of stone, lemon and wax lend a stately feel to this dry, in-tensely mineral Riesling. It’s full-bodied in style with a rich, rounded mouthfeel, but invigorated with acidity on the finish. Valckenberg Internation-al, Inc. —A.I. abv: 12.5% Price: $41

89 Dr. Fischer 2012 Saarburger Old Vines Ries-ling Trocken (Mosel). Fragrant on the nose

with aromas of fresh apples accented with herbs and spice, this dry, full-bodied wine bristles on the palate with lemon and lime acidity. Ripe yellow peach and nectarine flavors fill out the midpalate and linger on the finish. It’s straightforward in style yet deliciously quaffable. Winesellers Ltd. —A.I. abv: 13% Price: $16

89 Fritz Haag 2012 Riesling Trocken (Mosel). Delicate on the nose with hints of lemon,

lime and orange blossom, this slightly off-dry Ries-ling is succulent with white grapefruit and tangerine flavors. Brisk and steely with a fine, focused acidity, it finishes moderately long with a spray of lime zest and dusty minerals. Loosen Bros. USA. —A.I. abv: 11.5% Price: $22

89 Maximin Grünhäuser 2012 Riesling Trocken (Mosel). Whiffs of smoke accent musky

floral notes on this delicately fragrant dry wine. Medium-bodied in style, it’s brisk and brash on the palate with tart white grapefruit and lemon flavors anchored against a deep, stony minerality. Loosen Bros. USA. —A.I. abv: 12% Price: $22

88 Peter Nicolay 2012 Dry Riesling (Mosel). Spice and honeycomb waft exotically from

this dry, medium-bodied wine. The palate is tart with lemon and lime flavors, but rounded with deli-cate streaks of apricot and honey. Finishes moder-ately long with a hint of fresh herbs. Saranty Im-ports. —A.I. abv: 12% Price: $15

88 Xavier Flouret 2011 Kavalier Riesling Kabi-nett Trocken (Mosel). Elegant on the nose

with hints of smoke, stone and tangerine, this dry Riesling is intensely mineral in focus. The palate is brisk with tart pineapple and grapefruit flavors marked by searing lime acidity. Cognac One, LLC. —A.I. abv: 12% Price: $26

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60 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | AUGUST 2014

OTHER RIESLING

91 Prinz zu Salm-Dalberg’Sches Weingut Im Schloss Wallhausen 2012 Grünschiefer Ries-

ling (Nahe). While the nose is subdued with delicate hints of minerals, wax, lemon and lime, this almost-dry Riesling is buoyantly fruity on the palate with concentrated flavors of peach and Meyer lemon. Lemon-lime acidity strikes provocatively on the midpalate for a bold, impactful finish. Valckenberg International, Inc. —A.I. abv: 12.5% Price: $41

91 S.A. Prüm 2011 Graacher Dompropst GG Ries-ling (Mosel). For full review see page 5.

abv: 12.5% Price: $72

90 Dr. Fischer 2012 Steinbock Riesling (Mosel). While extremely mineral from nose to fin-

ish, this dry, medium-bodied wine packs a punch on the palate with lip-smacking peach, lime and lemon flavors. Vibrant tangerine acidity bristles long on the finish. Refreshingly and quaffable, yet satisfy-ingly complex. Winesellers Ltd. —A.I. abv: 12.5% Price: $16

90 Johannishof 2012 Charta Riesling (Rhein-gau). Streaks of lanolin and honeycomb

lend a waxy richness to stark lime and lemon flavors in this dry, medium-bodied wine. While slightly austere in style, intense minerality and sharp acid-ity create stately elegance. Valckenberg Internation-al, Inc. —A.I. abv: 11% Price: $24

89 Dr. Fischer 2012 Ockfener Bockstein Riesling (Mosel). Fresh green herbs and tart stone-

fruit aromas waft delicately from this dry, remark-ably juicy wine. The palate bursts with ripe white peach and nectarine flavor accented with bright, zesty lime acidity. Winesellers Ltd. —A.I. abv: 11.5% Price: $15

89 Dr. Heidemanns-Bergweiler 2012 Riesling (Mosel). Subtle spice notes lend exotic flair

throughout this dry yet light-bodied wine. Bright apple and Meyer lemon flavors build in intensity on the palate, accented by hints of savory herbs and minerals. Excellent value for a such a quaffable yet nuanced wine. Saranty Imports. Best Buy. —A.I. abv: 10% Price: $10

89 Escher Haus 2012 Riesling (Rheinhessen). Lavender and violet notes are lavishly flo-

ral against a backdrop of ripe, juicy peaches on this sunny off-dry wine. Zingy citrus acidity gives the palate backbone and a bracing finish. A great value wine to enjoy throughout the summer season. Win-ery Exchange. Best Buy. —A.I. abv: 10.5% Price: $14

89 Nebel 2012 Riesling (Rheinhessen). Hon-eysuckle notes waft gorgeously from this

summery off-dry Riesling full of juicy tangerine and

stone fruit flavors. Bright citrus acidity balances a palate that’s rich and round with a waxy slick that lingers deliciously through the finish. AWDirect. Best Buy. —A.I. abv: 10.5% Price: $11

88 Robert Weil 2012 Tradition Riesling (Rhe-ingau). Earthy, savory aromas subside to

reveal fresh lemon and lime on this elegant, steely wine. Off-dry in style, it balances ripe pear and apple flavors with a sturdy backbone of acidity. Fin-ishes moderately long. Loosen Bros. USA. —A.I. abv: 10% Price: $20

88 Villa Huesgen 2012 Nine Generations Ries-ling (Mosel). Fragrant orange blossom and

peach aromas are brightened with hints of lime and lemon on this dry, medium-bodied wine. Yellow peach and tangerine flavors are tart yet juicy on the palate, lifted by a streak of lime acidity and a mur-mur of tea-leaf astringency on the finish. Quintes-sential Wines. —A.I. abv: 12% Price: $20

87 Peter Mertes 2012 Platinum Riesling (Rhe-inhessen). A musky perfume accents fresh

lemon and tangerine aromas on this off-dry wine. It’s ripe and rich on the palate with flavors of quince and yellow peach. Zesty with lime, it finishes mod-erately long with a hint of savory herbs. Banks Channel. Best Buy. —A.I. abv: 9.5% Price: $9

86 Landshut 2012 Riesling (Mosel). For such a diminutive price, this blossomy off-dry

Riesling is not shabby at all. Refreshing on the pal-ate with brisk lemon-lime acidity, it’s straightfor-ward yet satisfying with lingering white peach and honey flavors. Prestige Wine Group. Best Buy. —A.I. abv: 9.5% Price: $5

86 Louis Guntrum 2012 Riesling (Germany). Pretty violet aromas elevate this off-dry

wine, accenting sunny flavors of quince and tanger-ine on the palate. Brisk lime acidity lends a brash, nervy feel that extends through the finish. A touch of savory herb lingers. Broadbent Selections, Inc. —A.I. abv: 9.5% Price: $13

GERMANYPINOT GRIS

91 Thörle 2012 Grauburgunder Trocken (Rhein-hessen). Fresh, tart pineapple and apple aro-

mas seem touched with honey and wax on this dry, boldly structured wine. Slightly viscous in texture, it balances intensely concentrated flavors of pear and apple with swathes of fresh green herbs and a bright, sunny acidity. Powerful yet elegant. Inge-nium Wines. —A.I. abv: 13% Price: $20

89 Franz Keller 2012 Schwarzer Adler Pinot Gris (Baden). Whiffs of lemon and lime are sub-

tly aromatic on this dry, full-bodied wine. The pal-ate is bright and fresh with pear and apple flavors, but elevated by a penetrating sheen of minerality that lingers through the finish. Schmitt-Söhne USA. —A.I. abv: 13% Price: $25

89 Oberbergen 2012 Estate Bottled Pinot Gris (Baden). Streaks of wax and lanolin meld

into tart pineapple and white peach notes in this dry, elegantly mineral Pinot Gris. The palate bal-ances juicy, fresh fruit with a steely, focused acidity that’s refreshing and invigorating. Ingenium Wines. —A.I. abv: 12.5% Price: $17

89 Villa Wolf 2012 Pinot Gris (Pfalz). Fragrant white lilies and stone fruit perfume this

bold, big-bodied wine. Dry in style, with lush white peach and pear flavors, it’s slightly heady and warm with alcohol. Steely, mineral tones and crisp lime acidity add elegance to the finish. Loosen Bros. USA. Best Buy. —A.I. abv: 13% Price: $12

PINOT BLANC

91 Franz Keller 2012 Schwarzer Adler Pinot Blanc (Baden). For full review see page 5.

abv: 13% Price: $25

89 Weingut Stadt Lahr 2012 Weissburgunder Kabinett Trocken (Baden). Waxy white flo-

ral aromas add a hint of richness to squeaky-fresh lemon and lime tones in this dry, rather tonic wine. Refreshingly mineral and moderate in alcohol, it’s a brisk white to pair with rich, creamy pasta or a cheese plate. Winesellers Ltd. —A.I. abv: 12.5% Price: $24

PINOT NOIR

93 August Kesseler 2011 Cuvée Max Qualitäts-wein Spätburgunder Trocken (Rheingau).

This is a standout amongst an increasing number of German Pinot Noir now available stateside. While youthful still with aromas of fresh black cherries and berries, it’s layered with shades of bramble, herb and granite, suggesting a long evolution that’s still ahead. Elegantly structured with cranberry acidity and fine, penetrating tannins, it’s a balanced wine that’s sexy and seductive. Vineyard Brands. Editors’ Choice. —A.I. abv: 14% Price: $100

92 August Kesseler 2011 Pinot Noir Trocken (Rheingau). Kesseler’s standard-label Pinot

Noir is gorgeously perfumed with notes of violet, spice and vanilla that meld seamlessly into a back-drop of concentrated black cherries and plums. It’s lavishly oaked, yet elegantly composed with brisk

WINEMAG.COM | 61

sour-cherry acidity and integrated alcohol. Deli-cious now, but should settle nicely through 2019. Vineyard Brands. —A.I. abv: 14% Price: $62

91 Thörle 2011 Saulheimer Kalkstein Spätbur-gunder Trocken (Rheinhessen). This wine

shows the riper, spicier side to German Pinot Noir. Lush black cherry and plum flavors are fleshy and dense on the palate, tinged with notes of cassis and bramble. Crisp acidity adds elegance and structure, along with a penetrating layer of finely textured tan-nins. Drink now for its bold, decadent style. Inge-nium Wines. —A.I. abv: 14% Price: $30

91 Thörle 2011 Spätburgunder Trocken (Rhein-hessen). While intensely youthful on the

nose with aromas of fresh red cherries and blossom, the wine seems to build in depth and maturity on the palate. Fresh red fruit turns deeper and darker, and pretty floral notes pick up hints of potpourri and fall foliage. Elegant yet seductive, it is delicious now, but should mature beautifully through 2019–2021. Ingenium Wines. —A.I. abv: 13% Price: $20

89 Carl Ehrhard 2011 Rüdesheimer Berg Rose-nenck Pinot Noir Trocken (Rheingau). Hints

of spice, bramble wood and dried herbs add ele-gance to this slightly earthy, rustic wine. The palate is crisp with cranberry acidity and red cherry fla-vors, but touches of mushroom, moss and hay show it’s likely to mature quickly. Drink now. Scoperta Importing Co. Inc. —A.I. abv: 13.5% Price: $21

89 Schäfer 2011 Pinot Noir (Rheinhessen). Crisp red cherry and berry notes are elegant

and youthful on this bright, sprightly wine. It’s con-centrated in flavor but delicately styled with faint hints of spice and toast. Finishes moderately long with sturdy but fine-grained tainnins that linger. Drink now. Winesellers Ltd. —A.I. abv: 13% Price: $15

NORTHEAST ITALYFRIULANO

92 Scubla 2012 Friulano (Colli Orientali del Fri-uli). Stunning and sophisticated, it opens

with intense aromas of stone fruit, tomato vine, pear and nut. The creamy palate offers juicy white peach, green apple and mineral accented with notes of bitter almond alongside fresh acidity. Drink now or hold a few years for more complexity. Vinifera Imports. Editors’ Choice. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $23

91 Comelli 2012 Friulano (Colli Orientali del Fri-uli). Fragrances recall acacia flower, chamo-

mile, stone fruit and a whiff of dried hay. The savory palate offers intense white peach, Bartlett pear and

yellow apple accented with mineral and almond notes alongside crisp acidity. It’s well balanced with a long, lingering finish. Peter Warren Selections. —K.O. abv: 13% Price: $20

91 La Viarte 2012 Friulano (Colli Orientali del Fri-uli). Structured and savory, it offers a floral

fragrance of honeysuckle, elderberry and crushed tomato vine. The juicy palate delivers tropical fruit, white peach and pineapple while crisp acid-ity brightens up the creamy texture. Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant. —K.O. abv: 13% Price: $22

90 Collavini 2012 Broy Friulano (Collio). Made from a blend of Friulano, Chardonnay and

Sauvignon, this rich wine opens with aromas of dried hay, stone fruit and a hint of pastry cream. The creamy palate delivers apricot, yellow peach and lemon drop alongside crisp acidity. It closes on a note of white almond. Amphora Wine Imports. —K.O. abv: 13% Price: $29

90 Gradis’ciutta 2013 Friulano (Collio). Sleek and polished, it opens with classic varietal

aromas of ripe pear and almond. The crisp, linear palate delivers green apple, Bartlett pear and lime zest lightly accented with sage. It’s balanced by fresh acidity and closes on a pleasant note of bitter almond. Multiple U.S. importers. —K.O. abv: 13.5% Price: $20

90 La Tunella 2012 Col Livius Friulano (Colli Orientali del Friuli). Made from native grape

Friulano and fermented in large casks, this full-bod-ied, sophisticated wine opens with delicate aromas that recall lemon blossom, acacia and walnut. The linear palate offers Bartlett pear, lemon zest and golden apple accented with notes of bitter almond. This will develop complexity over the next few years. Drink through 2018. La Tunella USA. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $30

90 Livio Felluga 2013 Friulano (Colli Orientali del Friuli). Made from the denomination’s

premier white grape, this sleek wine has aromas of mature pear, white flower, dried hay, stone fruit and nut. The palate delivers creamy white peach, yellow apple, lemon zest and mineral balanced by refresh-ing acidity. It closes on a note of white almond. Mio-netto USA. —K.O. abv: 13% Price: $25

90 Petrucco 2012 Friulano (Colli Orientali del Friuli). Unusual but enticing, it opens with

aromas of smoke, mineral and stone fruit. The sa-vory palate offers yellow peach, golden apple and Bartlett pear accented with notes of clove, nut and nutmeg. It’s linear and well-balanced. George Wines, Zancanella. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $17

88 Collavini 2013 Friulano (Collio). Made from Friuli’s classic white grape, this vibrant

wine leads with aromas of honeysuckle, baked pear and flint. The elegant, linear palate delivers yellow apple, Bartlett pear and lime zest accented with notes of sage, clove and cinnamon. Fresh acidity gives a bright finish. Amphora Wine Imports. —K.O. abv: 12.5% Price: $18

88 Conti Formentini 2013 Furlana Friulano (Col-lio). Aromas include white flower and pear.

The bright palate delivers yellow apple, Bartlett pear, lime zest and bitter almond alongside crisp acidity that leaves a pristine finish. Frederick Wild-man & Sons, Ltd. —K.O. abv: 13.5% Price: $20

88 La Tunella 2013 Friulano (Colli Orientali del Friuli). Subtle aromas of acacia and white

spring flowers are accented by hints of stone fruit. The palate offers mature Bartlett pear and tart green apple alongside crisp acidity. It closes on a distinctly nutty note of bitter almond. La Tunella USA. —K.O. abv: 13.5% Price: $22

88 Mario Schiopetto 2012 Friulano (Collio). Aromas include pear, smoke, flint and cit-

rus peel. The palate has ripe apple, lemon drop, mineral and bitter walnut alongside a note of me-dicinal herbs. Vintus LLC. —K.O. abv: 12.5% Price: $30

88 Poggiobello 2013 Friulano (Colli Orientali del Friuli). Floral aromas of jasmine and haw-

thorne take center stage. The palate offers mature Bartlett pear, juicy exotic fruit and sage alongside notes of candied ginger and bitter almond. Mont-calm Wine Importers. —K.O. abv: 13% Price: $20

88 Sirch 2013 Friulano (Colli Orientali del Friuli). Opening aromas include stone fruit, pear

and nut. The savory palate offers white peach, green apple and mature Bartlett pear accented with bitter almond and mineral notes alongside fresh acidity. Vinopoli Selections. —K.O. abv: 13% Price: $19

87 Colutta 2013 Friulano (Colli Orientali del Fri-uli). It leads with aromas of jasmine, yel-

low peach and a balsamic note. The palate is more subtle, offering Bartlett pear and citrus lightly ac-cented with sage, mint and bitter almond alongside invigorating acidity. Multiple U.S. importers. —K.O. abv: 13.5% Price: $18

87 Cormòns 2013 Friulano (Collio). This bright, savory wine offers yellow peach, citrus and

green melon sensations accented with a light al-mond note. Crisp acidity gives a refreshing, clean finish. Italian Wine Growers. Best Buy. —K.O. abv: 13% Price: $11

87 Torre Rosazza 2013 Friulano (Colli Orientali del Friuli). Ripe and round, it opens with a

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fruit fragrance of mature pear, white peach, and nut that all carry over to the palate along with green apple and a hint of candied lemon. It closes on a note of bitter almond. Bedford International. —K.O. abv: 13.5% Price: $20

RIBOLLA GIALLA

91 Dorigo 2013 Ribolla Gialla (Colli Orientali del Friuli). It’s loaded with lemon blossom, yel-

low apple, white peach, Bartlett pear and citrus sensations with a hint of custard. Creamy texture is brightened by fresh acidity. Multiple U.S. import-ers. Editors’ Choice. —K.O. abv: 12.5% Price: $29

91 La Tunella 2012 Col de Bliss Ribolla Gialla (Col-li Orientali del Friuli). Enticing aromas recall

white flower and a hint of stone fruit. The focused palate offers Bartlett pear, yellow apple and tanger-ine alongside subtle notes of dried aromatic herbs and crisp acidity. Fermentation in large casks lends this structure and complexity. La Tunella USA. —K.O. abv: 13.5% Price: $30

90 La Viarte 2012 Ribolla Gialla (Colli Orien-tali del Friuli). Opening with a fragrance of

Spanish broom and peach blossom, this sleek but structured wine is all about finesse and balance. The linear, subtle palate delivers juicy citrus, red apple and mineral alongside lively acidity. It closes on an almond note. Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant. —K.O. abv: 12.5% Price: $22

89 Masùt da Rive 2013 Ribolla Gialla (Collio). Historically one of Friuli’s most lauded va-

rieties, native grape Ribolla Gialla is now being re-vived. This polished wine starts with delicate floral aromas of peach blossom, citrus and a whiff of pas-try cream. The palate delivers mature apple, lemon zest and an almond note brightened by fresh acidity. Vignaioli Selection. —K.O. abv: 13.5% Price: $19

88 Collavini 2013 Turian Ribolla Gialla (Colli Ori-entali del Friuli). Floral and fruit fragrances

suggest lemon blossom, stone fruit and citrus. The fresh palate offers juicy peach, creamy apple and lemon zest accompanied by firm acidity. It closes fresh and clean. Amphora Wine Imports. —K.O. abv: 12.5% Price: $24

88 La Tunella 2013 Rjgialla Ribolla Gialla (Colli Orientali del Friuli). This linear wine opens

with aromas that recall stone fruit, apple and pineapple. The bright palate delivers white peach, grapefruit, citrus and mineral notes alongside fresh acidity. It has a crisp, clean finish. La Tunella USA. —K.O. abv: 13% Price: $22

88 Marco Felluga 2012 Ribolla Gialla (Collio). This savory wine begins with aromas of

peach blossom and citrus. The linear palate deliv-ers golden apple, lemon zest, nectarine and almond alongside bright acidity. Dalla Terra Winery Direct. —K.O. abv: 13% Price: $23

87 Colutta 2013 Ribolla Gialla (Colli Orientali del Friuli). Subtle aromas of white flower lead to

a straightforward palate that delivers yellow flower, lemon peel and a note of cream. Fresh acidity gener-ates a clean finish. Multiple U.S. importers. —K.O. abv: 12.5% Price: $25

87 Poggiobello 2013 Ribolla Gialla (Colli Orien-tali del Friuli). Aromas include white and

yellow spring flowers, stone fruit and citrus. The round palate offers lemon zest, yellow apple and ripe peach accented with candied ginger. Montcalm Wine Importers. —K.O. abv: 13% Price: $20

87 Sirch 2013 Ribolla Gialla (Colli Orientali del Friuli). This vibrant wine discloses aromas

of delicate wild flowers and stone fruit. The bright palate offers juicy yellow peach, golden apple, lemon and lime zest alongside crisp, refreshing acidity. Vi-nopoli Selections. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $20

87 Volpe Pasini 2012 Zuc di Volpe Ribolla Gialla (Colli Orientali del Friuli). Opening fragranc-

es suggest lemon blossom and white tree fruit. The palate offers juicy apple, Bartlett pear and citrus alongside fresh acidity that gives a bright finish. Verity Wine Partners. —K.O. abv: 12.5% Price: $40

SAUVIGNON

94 Russiz Superiore 2012 Sauvignon (Collio). It boasts classic varietal aromas of crushed

tomato vine, stone fruit and honeydew melon. The palate delivers white peach, cantaloupe and mineral accented with mint, thyme and rosemary notes that give depth. An elegant, compelling wine. Dalla Terra Winery Direct. Editors’ Choice. —K.O. abv: 13.5% Price: $26

94 Villa Russiz 2012 De La Tour Sauvignon (Col-lio). This bold Sauvignon opens with classic

varietal fragrances of crushed tomato vine, stone fruit and honeydew melon. The creamy palate deliv-ers layers of white peach, apricot, cantaloupe and mineral supported by fresh acidity. Balance and structure seamlessly support the alcohol. Empson USA Ltd. Editors’ Choice. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $62

92 Andriano 2013 Floreado Sauvignon (Alto Adige). This structured Sauvignon reveals

alluring fragrances of white flower, stone fruit, hay and cantaloupe aromas. The palate delivers mature

peach, honeydew melon and exotic fruit alongside mineral and crisp acidity. The finish is backed up by succulent fruit. Banville Wine Merchants. Editors’ Choice. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $22

92 Petrucco 2012 Sauvignon (Colli Orientali del Friuli). Polished and linear, it opens with

aromas of stone fruit and aromatic herbs. These carry over to the palate along with creamy white peach, honeydew melon, citrus, saline and mineral. Crisp acidity balances this out and gives it a re-freshing finish. George Wines, Zancanella. Editors’ Choice. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $17

91 Manincor 2012 Tannenberg Sauvignon (Alto Adige Terlano). A structured but polished

Sauvignon made from organically farmed grapes. The delicious palate delivers white peach, grape-fruit and honeydew melon accented with mineral and a ginger note. Fermentation in large casks gives complexity. Angels’ Share Wines. —K.O. abv: 13.5% Price: $38

91 Niedermayr Josef 2012 Naun Sauvignon (Alto Adige). An alluring fragrance of honeysuckle

comes along with whiffs of tomato vine and green melon. The juicy palate offers tropical fruit, ripe peach and cantaloupe energized by mineral notes and fresh acidity. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $30

90 Comelli 2012 Sauvignon (Colli Orientali del Friuli). It delivers classic varietal aromas

of tomato leaf, cut grass, hay and citrus. The crisp palate delivers juicy grapefruit, cantaloupe, exotic fruit and mineral alongside lively acidity that leaves a pristine finish. Peter Warren Selections. —K.O. abv: 13% Price: $20

90 La Tunella 2012 Col Matiss Sauvignon (Colli Orientali del Friuli). Bold and savory, it has

intriguing aromas of grass, dried hay, stone fruit and dill. The rich, warm palate delivers yellow peach, candied ginger and grapefruit accented with sage and a vanilla note. La Tunella USA. —K.O. abv: 13.5% Price: $30

90 Livio Felluga 2013 Sauvignon (Collio). Fra-grances of exotic fruit, tomato vine and

dried hay come with a hint of balsamic herbs. The savory palate delivers apricot, honeydew melon, and yellow bell pepper accented with notes of sage, mint and thyme. Pair this with asparagus risotto. Mionetto USA. —K.O. abv: 13% Price: $25

90 Weingut Niklas 2012 Sauvignon (Alto Adige). Polished and crisp, this opens with

aromas of exotic fruit accompanied by whiffs of cel-ery, slate and hay. The juicy palate delivers creamy white peach and green melon accented with min-

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eral notes and balanced by fresh acidity. Omniwines Distribution, Astor Wines. —K.O. abv: 13.5% Price: $23

89 Colterenzio 2012 Lafòa Sauvignon (Alto Adige). Aromas suggest apricot, lemon

drop, exotic fruit and subtle oak. The forward palate delivers yellow peach, nectarine, green melon and lemon drop alongside a note of vanilla. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $49

89 Conti Formentini 2013 Caligo Sauvignon (Collio). It leads with classic varietal aro-

mas of stone fruit, crushed tomato vine and dried hay. The round palate delivers white peach, canta-loupe, and tropical fruit edged with notes of sage and mineral. Pair this with dishes based on aspara-gus. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —K.O. abv: 13.5% Price: $20

89 Gradis’ciutta 2013 Sauvignon (Collio). Structured but polished, this vibrant wine

has aromas of dried hay, honeydew melon and a touch of balsamic herbs. The succulent palate deliv-ers juicy white peach, white grapefruit and mineral alongside fresh acidity. Multiple U.S. importers. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $20

89 Mario Schiopetto 2012 Sauvignon (Collio). Subdued aromas suggest stone fruit, citrus

and thyme. The palate offers yellow peach, tomato vine and medicinal herbs alongside crisp acidity. It ends on a slightly bitter, nutty note. Vintus LLC. —K.O. abv: 13.5% Price: $30

89 Poggiobello 2013 Sauvignon (Colli Orien-tali del Friuli). Structured and polished, it

opens with aromas of crushed tomato vine, stone fruit and baking spices. The palate delivers white peach, apricot and honeydew melon accented with a note of white pepper and supported by crisp acidity. Montcalm Wine Importers. —K.O. abv: 13% Price: $20

88 La Tunella 2013 Sauvignon (Colli Orientali del Friuli). Exuberant aromas suggest tropi-

cal fruit and tomato vine. The palate is more re-strained, showing subtle yellow peach, citrus and mineral alongside fresh acidity. La Tunella USA. —K.O. abv: 13% Price: $22

88 Sirch 2013 Sauvignon (Colli Orientali del Fri-uli). It offers intense aromas of tomato leaf,

grapefruit and dried hay. The vibrant, linear palate delivers apricot, pineapple, yellow pepper and a note of sage alongside racy acidity. It’s zesty and re-freshing without rough edges. Vinopoli Selections. —K.O. abv: 13.5% Price: $19

88 Volpe Pasini 2012 Zuc di Volpe Sauvignon (Colli Orientali del Friuli). Fragrances are

reminiscent of stone fruit, flint and dried hay. The subtle palate offers raw yellow peach, honeydew melon and tropical fruit alongside racy acidity. Ver-ity Wine Partners. —K.O. abv: 13% Price: $40

87 Colutta 2013 Sauvignon (Colli Orientali del Friuli). Crisp and steely, it has aromas of

freshly cut grass, hay and tropical fruit. The pal-ate delivers white grapefruit, pineapple and white peach lightly accented with aromatic herbs. Pair with pasta topped with pesto. Multiple U.S. import-ers. —K.O. abv: 13.5% Price: $20

87 Cormòns 2013 Sauvignon (Collio). Fruity and exuberant, it’s loaded with tropical fruit,

yellow peach, apricot and honeydew melon sensa-tions. The round, juicy palate is energized by fresh acidity. Italian Wine Growers. Best Buy. —K.O. abv: 13% Price: $11

87 Dorigo 2013 Sauvignon (Colli Orientali del Friuli). Bright and straightforward, it opens

with aromas of tropical fruit and cut grass. The palate delivers flavors of white grapefruit and lime alongside zesty acidity. Pair with asparagus risotto. Multiple U.S. importers. —K.O. abv: 13.5% Price: $29

87 La Tunella 2012 Sauvignon (Colli Orientali del Friuli). A bold Sauvignon with aromas of

crushed tomato vine, exotic fruit and cantaloupe. The forward, one-dimensional palate delivers ripe peach, apricot and honeydew melon. La Tunella USA. —K.O. abv: 13% Price: $22

86 Cembra 2012 Valtini Sauvignon (Trentino). Simple but well made Sauvignon, it offers

delicate aromas of tropical fruit. The round palate is more expressive, with subtle white peach and can-taloupe alongside fresh acidity. Enjoy soon. Ethica Wines. —K.O. abv: 13% Price: $19

86 Dorigo 2011 Ronc di Juri Sauvignon (Colli Orientali del Friuli). Fermented and aged in

barriques, this Sauvignon is overwhelmed by wood. It’s loaded with sensations of toasted oak, butter-scotch and vanilla with a hint of lemon drop. It lacks the fruit richness to support the dominate wood. Multiple U.S. importers. —K.O. abv: 13.5% Price: $29

86 Torre Rosazza 2013 Sauvignon (Colli Ori-entali del Friuli). This friendly Sauvignon

is loaded with sweet yellow peach and juicy green melon accented with a mint note. The one-dimen-sional palate offers juicy fruit and crisp, refreshing acidity. Bedford International. —K.O. abv: 13.5% Price: $20

PINOT GRIGIO

91 Gradis’ciutta 2013 Pinot Grigio (Collio). Here’s a polished Pinot Grigio with character. It’s

loaded with creamy green apple, Bartlett pear and nectarine sensations accented with spicy notes of cinnamon and ginger that add depth. Crisp acid-ity generates freshness and it has a lingering finish. Multiple U.S. importers. Editors’ Choice. —K.O. abv: 13.5% Price: $20

91 Russiz Superiore 2012 Pinot Grigio (Collio). This structured Pinot Grigio shows the true

potential of this popular grape. It opens with fra-grances of pear, mineral, smoke and aromatic herbs. These carry over to the creamy palate, alongside juicy apple, white peach, lemon zest, pastry filling and clove. Crisp acidity keeps it fresh and balanced. Dalla Terra Winery Direct. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $26

89 Comelli 2012 Amplius Pinot Grigio (Colli Ori-entali del Friuli). Delicious and full-bodied,

it offers aromas of lemon blossom and pear. The round, savory palate delivers white peach, green apple and mineral alongside fresh acidity. An al-mond note signals the finish. Peter Warren Selec-tions. —K.O. abv: 13% Price: $20

89 Mario Schiopetto 2012 Pinot Grigio (Collio). This vibrant Pinot Grigio opens with aro-

mas of white flowers and white tree fruit. The round palate offers mature pear and green apple alongside bright acidity but the structure doesn’t fully sup-port the evident alcohol. Vintus LLC. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $30

89 Villa Russiz 2012 Pinot Grigio (Collio). This bold Pinot Grigio is a far cry from the many

watered-down versions of this popular wine. It’s loaded with creamy white peach, Bartlett pear and green apple accented with lemon zest and a hint of pastry filling. Crisp acidity brightens this up and it finishes clean and dry. Empson USA Ltd. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $29

88 Colutta 2013 Pinot Grigio (Colli Orientali del Friuli). Delicate fragrances recall white wild

flowers and white tree fruit. The bright, medium-bodied palate delivers tart green apple, mature pear and a hint of lemon zest alongside crisp acidity. Multiple U.S. importers. —K.O. abv: 13.5% Price: $20

88 Conti Formentini 2013 Pinot Grigio (Collio). Subtle floral aromas include white spring

flowers and citrus notes. The juicy palate delivers tart Granny Smith apple, Bartlett pear and lime zest alongside crisp acidity that gives it a crystal clean finish. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —K.O. abv: 13.5% Price: $20

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88 Dorigo 2013 Pinot Grigio (Colli Orientali del Friuli). Aromas recall exotic fruit, lemon

blossom and slate. The crisp palate offers tart green apple, tangerine and lime zest alongside bright acid-ity. Multiple U.S. importers. —K.O. abv: 12.5% Price: $29

88 Livio Felluga 2013 Pinot Grigio (Collio). The aromas are subtle, but the palate is more

expressive, with green apple, white peach and lem-on zest taking the lead. Crisp acidity gives this a clean, refreshing finish. Sip as an apéritif or enjoy it with starters and lightly seasoned pasta dishes. Mionetto USA. —K.O. abv: 13% Price: $25

88 Marco Felluga 2011 Mongris Riserva Pinot Grigio (Collio). Partly fermented in oak

casks, this full-bodied Pinot Grigio opens with floral aromas of Spanish broom, white spring flowers, va-nilla and apple. The palate offers pear, apple, lemon zest and a note of bread crust alongside bright acid-ity. Dalla Terra Winery Direct. —K.O. abv: 13.5% Price: $30

88 Muri-Gries 2012 Pinot Grigio (Alto Adige). A structured Pinot Grigio, it discloses aromas

of fragrant white flowers, apple, pear and a hint of beeswax. The lively palate offers Granny Smith ap-ple and citrus alongside zesty acidity. A subtle min-eral note marks the close. Polaner Selections. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $20

88 Volpe Pasini 2012 Zuc di Volpe Pinot Grigio (Colli Orientali del Friuli). Opening aromas

include green apple, Bartlett pear, white peach, mineral and lemon zest. The juicy palate is balanced with fresh acidity and it closes on a hint of white almond. Verity Wine Partners. —K.O. abv: 12.5% Price: $40

87 Collavini 2013 Villa Canlungo Pinot Grigio (Collio). This lively wine is loaded with sen-

sations of spring wildflowers, tart green apple, pear and nectarine. Crisp acidity gives a refreshing fin-ish. Enjoy this as an apéritif or pair it with summer salads. Amphora Wine Imports. —K.O. abv: 12.5% Price: $18

87 La Tunella 2013 Pinot Grigio (Colli Orientali del Friuli). Opening aromas of wildflowers

and pears lead to a subtle palate offering tart green apple, juicy nectarine and Barltett pear alongside crisp acidity. Pair this with appetizers and light first courses or sip as an apéritif. La Tunella USA. —K.O. abv: 13% Price: $18

87 La Vis 2013 Ritratti Pinot Grigio (Trentino). Round and fruity, it has flavors of ripe

Bartlett pear, creamy green apple, white peach and apricot. It’s perfect to pour as an apéritif or pair it with starters and light first courses. Ethica Wines. —K.O. abv: 13.5% Price: $18

87 Petrucco 2012 Pinot Grigio (Colli Orientali del Friuli). Juicy Granny Smith apple and ripe

pear take center stage, along with notes of nectar-ine, lemon zest and a hint of bitter almond. Fresh acidity brightens up the finish. Multiple U.S. im-porters. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $16

87 Poggiobello 2013 Pinot Grigio (Colli Orientali del Friuli). It opens with fragrances of white

spring flowers and mature pear. The bright palate delivers Granny Smith apple, tangerine and lemon zest alongside crisp acidity. Montcalm Wine Im-porters. —K.O. abv: 13% Price: $20

87 Sirch 2013 Pinot Grigio (Colli Orientali del Friuli). Intense aromas of mature pear and

Granny Smith apples carry over to the palate along with lemon-lime and honey dew melon. Crisp acid-ity gives this a clean, refreshing finish. Vinopoli Se-lections. —K.O. abv: 13% Price: $19

86 Cormòns 2013 Pinot Grigio (Collio). Straight-forward and enjoyable, it delivers aromas of

peach blossom and citrus. The juicy palate offers white peach, green apple and banana peel. Sip this as an apéritif or pair with light first courses. Italian Wine Growers. Best Buy. —K.O. abv: 13% Price: $11

86 La Vis 2013 Pinot Grigio (Trentino). This lively Pinot Grigio from northern Italy has

green apple, ripe pear and citrus sensations along-side fresh acidity. Sip as an apéritif or pair it with summer salads. Ethica Wines. —K.O. abv: 12.5% Price: $13

86 Torre Rosazza 2013 Pinot Grigio (Colli Orien-tali del Friuli). Green apple, Bartlett pear,

and nectarine sensations are brightened by lively acidity. Sip this an apéritif or pair it with appetizers or grilled vegetables. Bedford International. —K.O. abv: 13.5% Price: $20

PINOT BIANCO

90 Cantina Produttori San Michele Appiano 2012 Schulthauser Pinot Bianco (Alto

Adige). Delicious and refreshing, it opens with a delicate fragrance of white spring flowers, chamo-mile and apples. The juicy, linear palate delivers ripe Bartlett pear, tart Granny Smith, white peach and mineral alongside crisp acidity that leaves a clean, lingering finish. Martin Scott Wines. —K.O. abv: 13.5% Price: $20

90 Scubla 2012 Pinot Bianco (Colli Orientali del Friuli). Subtle aromas include white flow-

er, pear and slate. The round palate delivers green apple and mature pear accented with mineral and

hints of ginger. Fresh acidity gives a polished finish. Vinifera Imports. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $23

90 Weingut Stroblhof 2012 Strahler Pinot Bi-anco (Alto Adige). Aging in large casks gives

this wine structure without adding invasive wood sensations. It’s loaded with white flower, mature Bartlett pear, tart green apple, mineral and finesse. The creamy palate is energized by crisp acidity. Winemonger. —K.O. abv: 13.5% Price: $26

89 Volpe Pasini 2012 Zuc di Volpe Pinot Bianco (Colli Orientali del Friuli). Aromas recall

white spring flowers and mature pears. The linear palate offers tart Granny Smith, lemon custard and Bartlett pear alongside fresh acidity. It has balance and a clean finish. Verity Wine Partners. —K.O. abv: 13% Price: $40

88 Cantina Produttori San Michele Appiano 2011 Sanct Valentin Pinot Bianco (Alto Adige).

Fermented and aged in barrels, this wine leads with wood and butterscotch sensations that carry over to the palate, along with yellow apples and pear. The dense, buttery palate is brightened by fresh acidity. If you appreciate wines with evident oak influence, you’ll enjoy this. Martin Scott Wines. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $40

88 Elena Walch 2012 Pinot Bianco (Alto Adige). Bright aromas of ripe golden apple, Bartlett

pear and honeydew melon carry over to the linear palate. Vibrant acidity gives this clean, refreshing finish. Chambers & Chambers. —K.O. abv: 12.5% Price: $16

88 Mario Schiopetto 2012 Pinot Bianco (Col-lio). Floral aromas are reminiscent of peach

blossom and wisteria. The palate delivers green apple, Bartlett pear, passion fruit and a light vein of mineral alongside soft acidity. Vintus LLC. —K.O. abv: 13.5% Price: $30

88 Weingut Niklas 2011 Klaser Riserva Pinot Bianco (Alto Adige). Barrel-fermented and

aged, it opens with aromas of toasted oak and white tree fruit. The palate offers subtle oak, Bartlett pear and yellow apple with a hint of lemon zest. Multiple U.S. importers. —K.O. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA

87 Dürer-Weg 2012 Trattmannhof Pinot Bianco (Alto Adige). Fermented partly in seasoned

barriques, this subtle but polished Pinot Bianco has delicate sensations of green apple, lemon zest, Bartlett pear and a hint of pastry cream. Crisp acidity generates a refreshing finish. Ethica Wines. —K.O. abv: 13% Price: $17

87 Niedermayr Josef 2012 Pinot Bianco (Alto Adige). Subtle aromas include white flowers

and pears. The linear palate offers tart green apple,

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grapefruit and energizing mineral alongside crisp, quenching acidity. —K.O. abv: 13% Price: $20

MÜLLER-THURGAU

92 Tiefenbrunner 2011 Feldmarschall von Fenner Müller-Thurgau (Alto Adige). Aromas

recall honeysuckle, green apple and aromatic herbs. The elegant palate offers concentrated yellow peach, apricot, lemon zest and a vein of pure minerality alongside crisp acidity. It’s nicely balanced with a lingering finish. Winebow. —K.O. abv: 13% Price: $40

90 Abbazia di Novacella 2012 Müller-Thurgau (Alto Adige Valle Isarco). A spicy wine, it

opens with aromas of white fragrant flowers, white peach, nutmeg and flint. The fresh, linear palate offers apricot, green apple, hazelnut and mineral alongside crisp acidity that leaves a clean, quench-ing finish. Abbazia di Novacella USA. —K.O. abv: 12.5% Price: $20

87 Cembra 2012 Vigna delle Forche Müller-Thurgau (Trentino). Bright and savory wine,

it has a delicate floral fragrance of hawthorne and honeysuckle with a whiff of pear. The palate offers green apple, a hint of white peach and light mineral sensations. Ethica Wines. —K.O. abv: 12.5% Price: $19

GEWÜRZTRAMINER

92 Klaus Lentsch 2012 Fuchslahn Gewürztra-miner (Alto Adige). Rich but refined, it

opens with an enticing floral fragrance of white roses and stone fruit. The fresh palate offers white peach, tropical fruit, pineapple and pink grapefruit accented with clove and nutmeg. Vinum Wine Im-porting and Distributing LLC. —K.O. abv: 13.5% Price: $28

90 Abbazia di Novacella 2012 Gewürztraminer (Alto Adige Valle Isarco). Structured and

refined, it discloses restrained aromas of white rose and exotic fruit. The rich but lively palate deliv-ers mango, apricot, white peach and grapefruit. It’s more polished and less flamboyant than many of its peers. Abbazia di Novacella USA. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $24

89 Tiefenbrunner 2012 Gewürztraminer (Alto Adige). Intense aromas suggest white rose

petals, stone fruit and honey. The rich palate offers ripe yellow peach, apricot, candied ginger and clove with just enough freshness to keep it well balanced. Winebow. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $25

89 Tramin 2012 Nussbaumer Gewürztraminer (Alto Adige). Intense aromas of white and

yellow roses and tropical fruit dominate the nose

on this full-bodied wine. The rich, round pal-ate is loaded with ripe tropical fruit, apricot, yel-low peach, honey and candied ginger alongside the warmth of alcohol. Winebow. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $40

88 Cantina Produttori San Michele Appiano 2012 Sanct Valentin Gewürztraminer (Alto

Adige). Lingering aromas include white rose and exotic fruit. The dense palate is more intense, with ripe apricot, yellow peach and tropical fruit. You’ll also feel the warmth of evident alcohol. Martin Scott Wines. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $40

GRÜNER VELTLINER

91 Abbazia di Novacella 2011 Praepositus Veltlin-er (Alto Adige Valle Isarco). Full-bodied and

elegant, it discloses aromas of white spring flowers, aromatic herbs and stone fruit. The juicy palate of-fers tart green apple, yellow peach, ripe cantaloupe, white pepper and mint alongside crisp acidity. The lingering finish closes on an energizing mineral note. Abbazia di Novacella USA. —K.O. abv: 13.5% Price: $30

89 Abbazia di Novacella 2012 Grüner Veltliner (Alto Adige Valle Isarco). This polished,

spicy wine is loaded with crisp green apple, white pepper and steely mineral sensations. The juicy fruit is balanced by lively acidity that gives a linear character and leaves the mouth feeling fresh and clean. Abbazia di Novacella USA. —K.O. abv: 13% Price: $20

89 Cantina Valle Isarco 2012 Aristos Grüner Velt-liner (Alto Adige Valle Isarco). Aged partly in

casks made from acacia wood, this structured wine opens with aromas of Alpine wild flowers, herbs, green apple and spice. The juicy palate offers apple, pear and intense white pepper alongside fresh acid-ity. Vinity Wine Company. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $18

RIESLING

91 Cantina Produttori San Michele Appiano 2012 Montiggl Riesling (Alto Adige). This dry Ries-

ling boasts intense apricot, yellow peach, citrus and smoky mineral sensations. The rich but polished palate is restrained by crisp acidity that leaves the mouth feeling fresh and clean. Martin Scott Wines. —K.O. abv: 12.5% Price: $20

90 St. Pauls 2013 Riesling (Alto Adige). Crisp and refreshing, it delivers honeysuckle, ripe

yellow peach, pink grapefruit and lemon-lime sen-sations. Energizing minerality and crisp acidity give a pristine finish. St. Pauls USA. —K.O. abv: 13% Price: $18

89 Abbazia di Novacella 2011 Praepositus Ries-ling (Alto Adige Valle Isarco). Aromas that

recall hay, stone fruit, herbs, nectarine and mineral carry over to the palate. The rich flavors are re-strained by bracing acidity that gives a clean, suc-culent finish. Abbazia di Novacella USA. —K.O. abv: 13% Price: $40

87 La Vis 2013 Simboli Riesling (Trentino). Aro-mas suggest honeysuckle and ripe pear. The

linear palate offers juicy nectarine, lemon drop and ripe tropical fruit alongside crisp acidity. Ethica Wines. —K.O. abv: 13% Price: $13

KERNER

90 Castelfeder 2012 Lahn Kerner (Vigneti delle Dolomiti). Intense but refined flavors in-

clude exotic fruit, juicy white peach, Bartlett pear and citrus accented with nutmeg and mineral notes. It’s balanced with crisp acidity that generates a clean, refreshing finish. Bacchanal Wine Imports. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $19

88 Caldaro 2012 Carnea Kerner (Alto Adige). Aromas suggest fragrant white flowers,

stone fruit and spice. The palate offers sweet white peach and pink grapefruit accented with nutmeg and mineral. You’ll also detect the warmth of alco-hol. Multiple U.S. importers. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $27

87 Cantina Valle Isarco 2012 Aristos Kerner (Alto Adige Valle Isarco). This zesty wine opens

with aromas of peach and exotic fruit with a whiff of mineral. The palate offers sweet tropical fruit and nectarine with a hint of spice alongside racy acidity. Vinity Wine Company. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $18

87 Weingut Niklas 2012 Kerner (Alto Adige). Subtle aromas of citrus, yellow apple and

stone fruit are accented with a whiff of flint. The palate offers lemon zest, grapefruit, white spices and mineral alongside bright acidity. Omniwines Distribution, Astor Wines. —K.O. abv: 13.5% Price: $23

CHARDONNAY

87 Colutta 2013 Chardonnay (Colli Orientali del Friuli). Structured but straightforward, it

opens with a pretty fragrance of white flowers, yel-low apples and a whiff of bread crust, all of which carry over to the ripe, round palate. Multiple U.S. importers. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $20

87 Dorigo 2012 Chardonnay (Friuli Colli Orien-tali). Fermented and aged in barriques, it

opens with aromas of oak, toast, butterscotch and

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apple. Oak dominates the palate, while butter, lem-on drop and vanilla mingle in the background. Mul-tiple U.S. importers. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $38

87 Gradis’ciutta 2013 Chardonnay (Collio). This straightforward wine opens with delicate

aromas of apples, mowed grass and dried hay. The palate offers Golden Delicous apples and lemon zest alongside a light mineral note and firm acidity. Mul-tiple U.S. importers. —K.O. abv: 13.5% Price: $20

87 Villa Russiz 2011 Graf de La Tour Chardonnay (Collio). Oak, toast, butter, nectarine, vanilla

and butterscotch sensations take center stage in this high-octane Chardonnay from Friuli. The pal-ate is dominated by scorching alcohol that throws the wine out of balance. Empson USA Ltd. —K.O. abv: 15% Price: $60

86 Lagaria 2012 Chardonnay (Vigneti delle Do-lomiti). This simple but well-made wine

from northern Italy opens with delicate floral and peach aromas. The palate offers golden apple and lemon zest alongside bright acidity. Empson USA Ltd. —K.O. abv: 13% Price: $NA

WHITE BLENDS

91 Livio Felluga 2011 Abbazia di Rosazzo (Ro-sazzo). Alluring aromas suggest hawthorne,

stone fruit, dried hay, flint and almond. The savory palate delivers white peach, yellow apple, lemon drop and nectarine accented with sage and min-eral notes. The fruit richness is brightened by crisp acidity. Mionetto USA. —K.O. abv: 13.5% Price: $55

91 Scubla 2012 Speziale Bianco (Friuli Colli Ori-entali). Made from a blend of Ribolla Gialla

and Malvasia Istriana, this rich but finessed wine conveys delicate aromas of hawthorne, stone fruit and slate. The succulent palate delivers apricot, tangerine and lime accented with mineral and bit-ter almond. An unusual, compelling wine. Vinifera Imports. —K.O. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA

90 Gradis’ciutta 2011 Bratinis (Collio). This full-bodied and savory blend of Chardon-

nay, Ribolla Gialla and Sauvignon opens with lovely aromas of hawthorne, apple and stone fruit. The vibrant palate delivers yellow peach, nectarine, Golden Delicious apple and candied citrus alongside bright acidity. Multiple U.S. importers. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $22

90 Livio Felluga 2011 Terre Alte (Rosazzo). A blend Friulano (fermented in oak) and

Pinot Bianco and Sauvignon (fermented in steel tanks), this has aromas of white fragrant flowers, subtle oak, toast and exotic fruit. The rich palate

offers pear, apple, candied citrus, vanilla and but-terscotch. Mionetto USA. —K.O. abv: 13.5% Price: $80

90 Manincor 2012 Rèserve della Contessa (Alto Adige Terlano). A blend of 60% Pinot Bian-

co, 30% Chardonnay and 10% Sauvignon, this el-egant wine opens with mature yellow apple, Bartlett pear and citrus that all continue on to the palate. The creamy flavors are brightened by crisp acidity. Angels’ Share Wines. —K.O. abv: 13% Price: $22

90 Niedermayr Josef 2011 Terlaner Hof zu Pramol (Alto Adige). This polished blend

of 80% Pinot Bianco and 20% Chardonnay fea-tures aromas of Golden Delicious apple, peach, pas-sion fruit and vanilla that carry over to the palate along with lemon drop. Aging partly in barrels gives it structure, while fresh acidity generates a crisp, clean finish. —K.O. abv: 13% Price: $30

90 Zuani 2011 Vigne (Collio). This blend of Chardonnay, Sauvignon and Pinot Grigio

opens with intense aromas of lemon blossom, pear, apple and flint. The linear palate delivers succulent white peach, green apple and lemon-lime alongside bright acidity. Martin Scott Wines. —K.O. abv: 13% Price: $24

89 Casata Monfort 2011 Blanc de Sers (Vigneti delle Dolomiti). Made with a unique blend

of Wanderbara, Vernaza, Veltliner Rosato and Nosi-ola in equal parts, it has a fragrance of white flower, beeswax and white tree fruit. The round palate of-fers mature pear, yellow apple and clove alongside bright acidity. Tricana Imports. —K.O. abv: 12.5% Price: $28

89 La Tunella 2012 Biancosesto (Colli Orientali del Friuli). A 50-50 blend of native grapes

Friulano and Ribolla Gialla that is fermented in large casks, this full-bodied wine opens with aro-mas of white flower and acacia. The linear palate delivers mature pear and yellow apple accented with bitter almond. La Tunella USA. —K.O. abv: 13.5% Price: $30

88 Marco Felluga 2011 Molamatta (Collio). A blend of Pinot Bianco, Friulano and Ribol-

la Gialla, this structured wine discloses aromas of white fragrant flowers and exotic fruit. The round palate offers yellow apple, pear, almond and vanil-la with a hint of toast. Dalla Terra Winery Direct. —K.O. abv: 13.5% Price: $23

88 Mario Schiopetto 2012 Blanc des Rosis (Venezia Giulia). A blend of Friulano, Mal-

vasia, Pinot Grigio, Sauvignon and Ribolla Gialla, it has aromas of hawthorne, stone fruit, pear and almond. The palate offers green apple, yellow peach,

bitter almond and a hint of menthol alongside bright acidity. Vintus LLC. —K.O. abv: 13% Price: $28

88 Russiz Superiore 2011 Col Disôre (Collio). A blend of Pinot Bianco, Friulano, Sauvignon

and Ribolla Gialla, this structured but elegant wine offers Golden apple, dried apricot, citrus and subtle oak along with a hint of butterscotch. Dalla Terra Winery Direct. —K.O. abv: 13.5% Price: $37

88 Tramin 2012 Stoan (Alto Adige). This rich blend of 60% Chardonnay, 22% Sauvi-

gnon, Pinot Bianco and Gewürztraminer is loaded with apricot, peach, pear, lemon drop and pine-apple sensations. The only downside is that you can notice the alcohol, which throws it off balance. Winebow. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $35

87 Livio Felluga 2011 Illivio (Colli Orientali del Friuli). A blend of Pinot Bianco, Chardon-

nay and Picolit that’s fermented and aged in small French casks, this opens with aromas of toast, ap-ple, bread crumb and oak. The aromas carry over to the palate along with butterscotch and butter. Mio-netto USA. —K.O. abv: 13.5% Price: $45

87 Mario Schiopetto 2010 Bianco (Venezia Gi-ulia). A blend of 50% Friulano and 50%

Chardonnay, this offers toasted oak, lemon zest, yel-low apple and buttery sensations accompanied by zesty acidity. It has more oak-driven flavors than fruit richness and it ends on a note of bitter walnut. Vintus LLC. —K.O. abv: 13% Price: $40

87 Pisoni 2012 Armonia Bianco (Vigneti delle Dolomiti). Made without added sulfites, this

blend of 70% Sauvignon, 10% Chardonnay, 10% Nosiola and 10% Goldtraminer has aromas of dried apricot, earth, honey and walnut. The palate offers dried golden apple and lemon drop. Although it still has lively acidity, enjoy soon for fresh fruit flavors. Cora Import. —K.O. abv: 12.5% Price: $25

87 Scubla 2011 Pomedes (Colli Orientali del Friuli). Made from a blend of 65% Pinot

Bianco, 25% Friulano, 10% Riesling Renano and aged in barriques, this opens with aromas of oak, toast and lemon zest. These carry over to the pal-ate along with vanilla, apple and butterscotch. The hefty presence of alcohol throws this wine off bal-ance. Vinifera Imports. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $23

87 Zuani 2011 Riserva (Collio). Oak dominates this blend of Chardonnay, Sauvignon and

Pinot Grigio. Aromas of toasted wood, butterscotch, lemon zest and walnut carry over to the palate alongside yellow apple. Martin Scott Wines. —K.O. abv: 13.5% Price: $37

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OTHER WHITE WINES

88 Abbazia di Novacella 2012 Sylvaner (Alto Adige Valle Isarco). Aged partly in large

casks, this has aromas that recall white flowers, stone fruit, chamomile, subtle oak and flint. The palate offers yellow apple, lemon zest, white peach and smoky graphite alongside fresh acidity. Abbazia di Novacella USA. —K.O. abv: 13% Price: $20

88 Castel Sallegg 2012 Steinleiten Moscato Giallo (Alto Adige). Intense aromas sug-

gest orange blossom, tropical fruit and apricot. The palate offers tropical fruit, nectarine, yellow peach and green apple. Pair with aged cheeses. Weygandt-Metzler. —K.O. abv: 12.5% Price: $NA

88 La Vis 2011 L’altro Manzoni Maso Franch Incrocio Manzoni (Vigneti delle Dolomiti).

Incrocio Manzoni results from a crossing between Riesling and Pinot blanc grapes. Delicate aromas re-call white flowers and stone fruit. The elegant pal-ate offers yellow apple, apricot and a hint of pine-apple alongside bright acidity. Ethica Wines. —K.O. abv: 13.5% Price: $25

86 La Vis 2013 Sette Fontane Nosiola (Tren-tino). Made from native grape Nosiola, this

has a subdued nose that reveals delicate floral and citrus notes. The crisp palate offers lemon, lime zest and a hint of white grapefruit alongside bright acid-ity. Ethica Wines. —K.O. abv: 12.5% Price: $16

ROSÉS

88 Nals Margreid 2013 Lagrein Rosé (Alto Adige). This structured rosato from north-

ern Italy is loaded with bright red cherry, raspberry, black pepper and graphite sensations. The round, juicy palate is balanced by lively acidity that gives a refreshing finish. —K.O. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA

86 Mezzacorona 2013 Lagrein Rosato (Tren-tino). Bright and cheerful, it offers fruity

aromas of woodland berries, cherry and a whiff of white pepper that all carry over to the palate. Crisp acidity gives a clean, quenching finish. Prestige Wine Imports Corp. Best Buy. —K.O. abv: 12% Price: $10

AUSTRIARIESLING

92 Salomon-Undhof 2013 Steinterrassen Ries-ling (Kremstal). Lemony lightness, coupled

with zesty spritz on the palate make this a refresh-ing white with lots of focus, linearity and whistle-

clean length. Floral notes around the edges add to the intrigue. Fruit of the Vines, Inc. —A.K. abv: 12.5% Price: $25

91 Hermann Moser 2013 Gelbling Riesling (Krem-stal). Full-fruited peachiness is tempered by

tangy lemon acidity with texture and concentration. It’s fruity and refreshing, but also very precise and delicious. Boutique Wine Collection. —A.K. abv: 12% Price: $21

91 Steininger 2013 Riesling (Kamptal). Pure, poised citrus lift combines pink and yellow

grapefruit peel on the nose, with more cushioning on the textured, concentrated palate. A stony, min-eral background plays against the lively, bright acid that leaves you wanting more. Select Wines. —A.K. abv: 12.5% Price: $24

90 Brandl 2013 Terrassen Riesling (Kamptal). Lifted lemon purity surrounded by white

summer blossom make for a fresh Riesling with wonderful balance, concentration and poise. It of-fers that quintessential acid streamline that Ries-ling-lovers always look for. MS Walker. —A.K. abv: 12.5% Price: $29

90 Bründlmayer 2013 Steinmassel Riesling (Kamptal). A slight funkiness plays around

the edges of this lemon-scented wine. There is tex-ture, too, and a richer, deeper core that draws you in. It finishes on a note of pure, poised lemon fresh-ness with energy provided by some residual spritz. Monika Caha Selections. —A.K. abv: 12.5% Price: $NA

90 Buchegger 2013 Tiefenthal Riesling (Krem-stal). Ripe Meyer lemon hovers just be-

neath the surface of this wine, filling its core with generous, refreshing but never sharp acidity. It fizzes ever so slightly, following through with appe-tizing zestiness and fruity freshness only to leave a long, citrus-scented aftertaste. David Bowler Wine. —A.K. abv: 12.5% Price: $23

90 Eichinger 2013 Vom Berg Riesling (Kamp-tal). Restrained but concentrated fruit

rules. Grapefruit peel draws you in only to reveal al-most candied, rich orange and citron on the stream-lined, linear palate. Weygandt-Metzler. —A.K. abv: 12.5% Price: $NA

90 Josef Jamek 2013 Ried Klaus Riesling Fed-erspiel (Wachau). This is reminiscent of a

very well-done fruit cocktail. Grape. melon and pear mingle amongst citrus freshness with some tropical hints of lychee mixed in. Wonderfully fruity, round-ed and fresh with a zesty seam of acidity. Carlo Hu-ber Selections. —A.K. abv: 12.5% Price: $NA

90 Josef Schmid 2013 Vom Urgestein Riesling (Kremstal). A touch of flint, some spritz

and the zesty tang of both lemon and grapefruit

peel make this racy and sleek . An addictive seam of bright acid puls through to a long, lingering and clean finish. Monika Caha Selections. —A.K. abv: 12.5% Price: $22

90 Mantlerhof 2013 Zehetnerin Riesling (Krem-stal). Textured richness with the flavor of

juicy, yellow pears makes this a rounded but zesty Riesling with great, lemony focus. Valley View Wine Sales. —A.K. abv: 12.5% Price: $NA

90 Sepp Moser 2013 Von den Terrassen Riesling (Kremstal). Lifted lemon purity, cushioned

by riper stone fruit, especially yellow plum and greengage, makes this a complete and super-re-freshing, fruity number. Martin Scott Wines. —A.K. abv: 12% Price: $25

90 Stadt Krems 2013 Steinterrassen Riesling (Kremstal). Lifted bergamot is the almost

singular, striking citrus feature here, marrying fra-grant, leafy peel with riper hints of pineapple. It fin-ishes with triumphant, tropical ripeness. Winebow. —A.K. abv: 12.5% Price: $28

90 Stift Göttweig 2013 Goettweiger Berg Ries-ling (Kremstal). Ripe yellow pear fruit is

shot through with lemony freshness, a counterpoint between ripeness and acidity. Concentrated and streamlined, it offers a very moreish body with a lip-smacking finish. Circo Vino. —A.K. abv: 12.5% Price: $25

90 Unger 2013 Stein Terrassen Riesling (Krem-stal). This opens with a breezy fragrance

of citrus zest and mandarin leaf, hinting at deeper, riper peach within. The palate is soft but defined; while slender, it still abounds with citrus-framed peach. Verity Wine Partners. Best Buy. —A.K. abv: 12.5% Price: $12

89 Domäne Wachau 2013 Terrassen Riesling Federspiel (Wachau). Primary notes of

green pear dominate the nose. The palate is tight with grapefruit zestiness, while some ripe yellow pear in the background provides measure and bal-ance. Vin Divino. —A.K. abv: 12.5% Price: $19

89 Hirsch 2013 Zöbing Riesling (Kamptal). Flinty smoke appears first and leads onto a

textured palate where grapefruit zest mingles with green pear peel against a stony, mineral background. Tight, bright and lemony acidity adds focus. Mi-chael Skurnik Wines. —A.K. abv: 12% Price: $28

89 Loimer 2013 Langenlois Riesling (Kamptal). Restraint and yeastiness mingle with the

zesty lemon peel nose. The palate is concentrated and still has some spritz with a featherweight body. Winebow. —A.K. abv: 12.5% Price: $25

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89 Markus Huber 2013 Engelsberg Riesling (Traisental). Funky flowers and dandelion

fringe the citrus core of this rounded but precise Riesling. They hint at a ripe core of stone fruit that vies for attention with zesty acidity. Broadbent Se-lections, Inc. —A.K. abv: 12.5% Price: $24

89 Markus Huber 2013 Terrassen Riesling (Traisental). Freshly cut lemon and an

earthy dimension make for an interesting nose. They lead to a poised, lemony-pure palate with an almost gentle touch, despite all the lemony fresh-ness. Intriguing in its concentrated lightness. Broadbent Selections, Inc. —A.K. abv: 12% Price: $16

89 Nigl 2013 Dornleiten Riesling (Kremstal). Straitlaced and fresh, this is a simple but

effective wine with zesty acidity cushioned by a full-er body. This one is a real all-rounder with a lovely clean lemon peel finish. Michael Skurnik Wines. —A.K. abv: 12% Price: $29

89 Tegernseerhof 2013 Terrassen Riesling Federspiel (Wachau). Notions of very ripe

peaches lead onto a tight, fresh and zesty palate where you can still catch glimpses of that peach. A rounded and fruity number, not without precision. KW Selection. —A.K. abv: 12.5% Price: $NA

89 Türk 2013 Kremser Weinzierlberg Riesling (Kremstal). Clean, poised, lemony fresh-

ness on an arrow-straight body. Zesty refreshment in one clean and compact package. Niche Import Company. —A.K. abv: 12.5% Price: $19

89 Weszeli 2013 Loiserberg Riesling (Kamp-tal). Restrained Meyer lemon and slender

zestiness characterize this featherlight wine that nonetheless has a concentrated, melting core and convinces with simple purity. Savio Soares Selec-tions. —A.K. abv: 12.5% Price: $24

88 Fritsch 2013 Riesling (Wagram-Donauland). Rounded acidity recalls the freshness of

green apple and pear rather than that of citrus. Very clean and streamlined but with pleasant substance and just a little enticing spritz. Simple but very pleasant. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —A.K. abv: 12% Price: $NA

88 Josef Ehmoser 2013 Vom Gelben Löss Ries-ling (Wagram-Donauland). A gentle, fresh-

faced, peachy Riesling with a rounded body, re-freshing acidity and just a little spritz. David Bowler Wine. —A.K. abv: 12.5% Price: $20

88 Weingut Christ 2013 Wiesthalen Riesling (Vi-enna). The zesty juiciness of grapefruit peel

and some spritz provide refreshment with lots of lemony purity thrown in for good measure. A light but concentrated summer wine. Carlo Huber Selec-tions. —A.K. abv: 12.5% Price: $25

88 Wieninger 2013 Riesling (Vienna). Very straightforward, it’s a dry and zesty Riesling

for every day. While the nose gives little, the palate holds freshness and ample texture. Winebow. —A.K. abv: 13.5% Price: $23

87 Höpler 2013 Riesling (Burgenland). Breezy, light lemon freshness emanates from this

refreshing wine that is as barely there as a cool mountain breeze. Very clean and totally fresh with the slightest amount of spritz. USA Wine Imports. —A.K. abv: 12% Price: $23

87 Landhaus Mayer 2013 Riesling (Niederöster-reich). A combination of dried white cur-

rant, green apple and lemon makes for a refresh-ing, clean palate with a medium, zesty finish. MS Walker. —A.K. abv: 12% Price: $16

87 Loimer 2013 Lenz Riesling (Niederösterreich). Subdued aromas of citrus are only revealed

on the palate; the nose gives little away. Clean, sound and refreshing. Winebow. —A.K. abv: 12% Price: $21

87 Stift Klosterneuburg 2013 Riesling (Niederös-terreich). Aromatic notions of peach precede

a fresh, light and easy-drinking palate with zesty acidity. Boutique Wine Collection. —A.K. abv: 12.5% Price: $NA

86 Pleil 2013 Riesling (Niederösterreich). Very fresh, pliable and clean, it makes for easy

and refreshing summer drinking. Rad Grapes. —A.K. abv: 12% Price: $NA

85 Stadlmann 2013 Riesling (Niederösterreich). Aromatic notions of peach precede a fresh,

light and easy-drinking palate with zesty acidity. Valley View Wine Sales. —A.K. abv: 12.5% Price: $NA

GRÜNER VELTLINER

92 Bründlmayer 2013 Berg Vogelsang Grüner Veltliner (Kamptal). Pure lemon zest min-

gles with peppery pungency and makes for pepper-speckled refreshment. Linearity and focus abound and this wine is so lively, it seems to fast-forwarded into the future. Michael Skurnik Wines. Editors’ Choice. —A.K. abv: 12.5% Price: $34

92 Eichinger 2013 Hasel Alte Reben Reserve Grüner Veltliner (Kamptal). Soft and invit-

ing ripeness of yellow plums leads to a spicy, pep-

pery and wonderfully focused citrus center. This is a wine you want to savor, easing out every last no-tion of the layered spice. While it is fresh now, it can certainly keep and will shine especially when paired with hearty, Austrian-style food—Wiener Schnitzel, anyone? Weygandt-Metzler. —A.K. abv: 12.5% Price: $NA

92 Eichinger 2013 Wechselberg Grüner Veltliner (Kamptal). This wine is so savory, it is hard

to decide what notions appear uppermost. There definitely is white pepper, also some soy-sauce depth, dried hayflowers and arugula pungency, all framed by ripe pear flavors and displayed on a tex-tured, refreshing canvas. Weygandt-Metzler. Edi-tors’ Choice. —A.K. abv: 12.5% Price: $NA

92 Hirsch 2013 Kammerer Heiligenstein Grüner Veltliner (Kamptal). Less aromatically for-

ward than its peers, this suggests slightly riper fruit. A welcome mineral focus comes on the con-centrated, textured palate that boasts zesty citrus peel and a wonderfully straight, upright backbone. This will come into its own by 2015–2016. Michael Skurnik Wines. —A.K. abv: 12% Price: $29

92 Nigl 2013 Senftenberger Piri Grüner Veltliner (Niederösterreich). Spritzy lemon, peppery

arugula and an almost salty edge provide lots of in-terest in this super-refreshing and really lip-smack-ing light white. Michael Skurnik Wines. —A.K. abv: 12.5% Price: $29

92 Steininger 2013 Grüner Veltliner (Kamptal). Lifted, pear-scented freshness dominates

the nose while the palate is soft but has a pleasing and linear citrus focus. This is poised and offers so-phisticated refreshment. Select Wines. —A.K. abv: 12.5% Price: $17

91 Bernhard Ott 2013 Fass 4 Grüner Veltliner (Wagram-Donauland). Hints of passion fruit

play appetizingly about the more usual pear aromas, and the palate displays a winning combination of fresh, zesty lemon and white pepper. It finishes with pleasant length. Michael Skurnik Wines. —A.K. abv: 12.5% Price: $29

91 Buchegger 2013 Gelbling Grüner Veltliner (Niederösterreich). White currant, green pear

and peppery arugula rule this crisp white. It bursts with very ripe sweet, juicy pears on the palate, mak-ing for savory sipping with lots of resonance, with or without food. Drink now. David Bowler Wine. —A.K. abv: 13% Price: $15

91 Glatzer 2013 Dornenvogel Grüner Veltliner (Carnuntum). The fragrant freshness of cut

Conference pears with grassy undertones promises immediate invigoration. A background of peppery

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savoriness, spicy length and mouthfeel destine this for food. Michael Skurnik Wines. —A.K. abv: 13% Price: $20

91 Hermann Moser 2013 Karmeliterberg Grüner Veltliner (Kremstal). It shows total citrus fo-

cus, linearity and precision, fringed by green pear peel and peppery leaves. Superior freshness and definite ageing potential show in the tingling, in-vigorating acidity. Boutique Wine Collection. —A.K. abv: 12.5% Price: $16

91 Jäger 2013 Selection Grüner Veltliner (Wachau). The archetypal pear flavors of

Grüner Veltliner come to the fore: fresh, flavorsome and crunchy green Conference pear in this case, with zesty acidity in a linear, refreshing and zesty frame. This is concentrated and totally refreshing. Grand Cru Selections. —A.K. abv: 13% Price: $30

91 Josef Jamek 2013 Stein am Rain Grüner Velt-liner Federspiel (Wachau). Subtle peach notes

lead on to an elegant but almost meltingly rich pal-ate that is nonetheless structured by fresh, lemony acidity. Rich but streamlined, it confounds with its complexity. Great peppery finish. Carlo Huber Se-lections. —A.K. abv: 12.5% Price: $NA

91 Jurtschitsch Sonnhof 2013 Löss Grüner Velt-liner (Kamptal). Aromatically, this wine does

not want to give too much away yet. However, the citrus focus of its linear palate and the refreshment that it holds are already evident. This is Grüner for grown-ups with a neat dose of peppery pungency and great concentration. David Bowler Wine. —A.K. abv: 12.5% Price: $19

91 Lenikus 2013 Grüner Veltliner (Vienna). The intriguing spice of grapefruit foliage and

freshly cut grapefruit peel haunts the aromatic edg-es of this subtle and rounded but still focused wine. Peppery watercress flares up, too. This delightful wine will perform miracles with food but keep your interest on its own, too. Savio Soares Selections. —A.K. abv: 12.5% Price: $NA

91 Schwarzböck 2013 Vier Gärten Grüner Velt-liner (Niederösterreich). The combination of

ripe, almost tropical fruit notes, bright, lifting acid-ity and a meltingly rounded mouthfeel makes for ul-timate refreshment. Depth of flavor keeps you going back for more of that zesty length. Michael Skurnik Wines. —A.K. abv: 11.5% Price: $19

91 Wieninger 2013 Herrenholz Grüner Veltliner (Vienna). Freshly milled white pepper and

lemon zest are inviting on the nose. Spice and lem-ony freshness continue on the palate where they are joined by riper fruit notes of yellow and red apples,

always keeping that refreshing and lively zing. Winebow. —A.K. abv: 13% Price: $28

90 Anton Bauer 2013 Rosenberg Grüner Veltlin-er (Wagram-Donauland). Freshly cut green

pear aromatically leads on to that white pepper spice so often looked for in Grüner. Here it shows in abundance, in duet with ripe but refreshing lemon acidity. Select Wines. —A.K. abv: 12.5% Price: $25

90 Brandl 2013 Weinberge Grüner Veltliner (Niederösterreich). Fragrant Conference

pears, lemon zest and an edge of white pepper de-liver on nose and palate. Light, crisp and totally in-vigorating. MS Walker. —A.K. abv: 13% Price: $24

90 Bründlmayer 2013 Kamptaler Terrassen Grüner Veltliner (Kamptal). Riper notions

of juicy yellow pear play here, fringed by peppery leaves of arugula and zesty lemon freshness. It’s fo-cused, precise and concentrated. —A.K. abv: 12.5% Price: $NA

90 Buchegger 2013 Holzgasse Grüner Veltliner (Niederösterreich). It conveys the purest

scent of cut green pears, a crisp but cushioned body, and zesty, citrusy freshness. It’s very complete and for immediate consumption. David Bowler Wine. Best Buy. —A.K. abv: 12.5% Price: $11

90 Ebner-Ebenauer 2013 Birthal Grüner Velt-liner (Weinviertel). Enticing notions of pas-

sion fruit and peach grab the attention first, but there is almost more interest in the peppery, zesty mouth-feel. Fresh but rounded. Winemonger. —A.K. abv: 13% Price: $NA

90 Ebner-Ebenauer 2013 Hermanschachern Grüner Veltliner (Weinviertel). Expressive

notes of white pepper, watercress and citrus make this a quintessential and zippy Weinviertel Grüner, where the variety is known in the local dialect as “Pfefferl”, i.e. little pepper. Winemonger. —A.K. abv: 13% Price: $NA

90 Felsner 2013 Moosburgerin Grüner Veltliner (Niederösterreich). Hints of ripe apricot

and ethereal notes of crushed boxwood add inter-est to the more usual aromatic spectrum of green pear and white pepper. A lovely phenolic grip pro-vides extra dimension and calls for food. Rounded, intriguing but still very refreshing. Grape Expecta-tions (CA). —A.K. abv: 12.5% Price: $18

90 Fritsch 2013 Vom Donaulöss Grüner Veltliner (Niederösterreich). Rich stone fruit adds

to the pleasure of this lemon and arugula-scented white that manages to remain crisp despite its in-

viting and luscious ripeness. Monika Caha Selec-tions. —A.K. abv: 12% Price: $NA

90 Glatzer 2013 Grüner Veltliner (Carnuntum). Green pear peel, fresh cucumber and ripe,

golden pears all unite to make a rounded, tooth-some food wine that’s also crisp and savory. Michael Skurnik Wines. Best Buy. —A.K. abv: 12% Price: $15

90 H. & M. Hofer 2013 Freiberg Grüner Veltliner (Niederösterreich). Floral hints of acacia

blossom play with ripe pear notes on the nose. The palate offers pleasant spritz and a real twist of that white pepper desired in Grüner Veltliner—ideal for summer days and immediate drinking. Michael Skurnik Wines. —A.K. abv: 13% Price: $22

90 Hermann Moser 2013 Per Due Grüner Veltlin-er (Kremstal). Very fresh green pear notes

are joined by riper notions of passion fruit. These linger on the palate where peppery phenolics add structure and depth. Boutique Wine Collection. Best Buy. —A.K. abv: 12% Price: $13

90 Hillinger 2013 Grüner Veltliner (Burgen-land). Restrained notes of ripe pear gain

savory interest from herbal notes reminiscent of curry leaf and lovage. There’s also ample spice in this eminently gastronomic wine with a refreshing, super-clean finish. Select Wines. Best Buy. —A.K. abv: 12.5% Price: $12

90 Hugl-Wimmer 2013 Wimmer Grüner Veltliner (Niederösterreich). Ripe Concord pear and

an intriguing, phenolic mouthfeel combine in this highly drinkable light white. There is enough weight to support food and a pleasing hint of savoriness as well as depth. Kysela Père et Fils. Best Buy. —A.K. abv: 13.5% Price: $13/1 L

90 Jäger 2013 Klaus Grüner Veltliner Federspiel (Wachau). Still closed, this will take a little

time to come out of its shell. But it’s worth the wait: there’s pepper, zestiness and a streamlined, struc-tured body. One word comes to mind: sleekness. Grand Cru Selections. —A.K. abv: 12.5% Price: $30

90 Josef Schmid 2013 Satzen Grüner Veltliner (Niederösterreich). Slender zippiness sup-

ports fresh lemon and white pepper notes on this tight, light-footed and linear white. Monika Caha Selections. —A.K. abv: 12% Price: $18

90 Jurtschitsch Sonnhof 2013 Stein Grüner Veltliner (Kamptal). A subtle mix of pear

and pepper plays on the nose. A seam of clean, fresh acidity leads to a concentrated, peppery palate where zestiness reigns, made more interesting by

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70 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | AUGUST 2014

the aromatic pungence of lovage and arugula. David Bowler Wine. —A.K. abv: 12.5% Price: $20

90 Loimer 2013 Langenlois Grüner Veltliner (Kamptal). Freshly cut pear peel and sa-

vory, almost nutty herbs announce a richer style with plump notions of yellow pear and plum. Sa-vory nuttiness is foremost, playing on the rounded and beautifully textured palate. A lasting notion of white pepper makes for an intriguing finish. This has “food wine” written all over it, and will shine on the table. Winebow. —A.K. abv: 12.5% Price: $22

90 Loimer 2013 Lois Grüner Veltliner (Kamp-tal). A wonderful mix of white pepper,

fresh lemon zest, herbal pungency and green pear flavors makes Grüner Veltliner such a success. Here it all comes in one focused, friendly and easy pack-age, with peppery length. Winebow. —A.K. abv: 12% Price: $16

90 Machherndl 2013 Bachsatz Grüner Veltliner Federspiel (Wachau). Very ripe, juicy yel-

low pears are the central feature on nose and palate of this well-balanced, concentrated and refreshing wine. Zesty lemon acidity lends poise and length. Broadbent Selections, Inc. —A.K. abv: 12.5% Price: $NA

90 Markus Huber 2013 Obere Steigen Grüner Veltliner (Traisental). Fresh lemon juice on

cut Conference pear constitutes the main flavor on this tight, light and slender white. It displays focus, a precise edge of minerality and lovely phenolic tex-ture. Broadbent Selections, Inc. —A.K. abv: 12.5% Price: $19

90 Müller-Grossmann 2013 Grosser Satz Grüner Veltliner (Kremstal). It has fragrant, lifted

freshness and a seam of lemony acidity that focuses the textured palate. Slender and refreshing, with long, lemony finish. Carlo Huber Selections. —A.K. abv: 12.5% Price: $19

90 Nigl 2013 Freiheit Grüner Veltliner (Nie-derösterreich). Savory herbs like lovage

and arugula play the starring role; underneath lies fresh citrus and some wonderful spritz. This longs for food and will be heaven with cheese. Michael Skurnik Wines. —A.K. abv: 11.5% Price: $23

90 R&A Pfaffl 2013 Haidviertel Grüner Veltliner (Weinviertel). A hint of passion fruit plays

on the nose of this subtle wine. The real strength lies in its textured midpalate that reveals soft pep-per notes and a backbone that will make it a winner on the table. Enjoy the savory aftertaste. Palm Bay International. —A.K. abv: 12.5% Price: $20

90 Salomon-Undhof 2013 Franziskus Grüner Veltliner (Kremstal). Green pears and ivy

leaves, together with zesty lemon, bring a very slen-der and precise focus to this wine that promises re-freshment and ageing mileage. Drink now or keep until 2015–2016. Fruit of the Vines, Inc. —A.K. abv: 12.5% Price: $21

90 Sepp Moser 2013 Von den Terrassen Grüner Veltliner (Kremstal). Texture and spice are

the main features of this concentrated white with citrus zest on the palate. The aromatics still need to wake up; with a little time, they will shine. For now grapefruit zest will suffice. Martin Scott Wines. —A.K. abv: 12% Price: $18

90 Setzer 2013 Ausstich Grüner Veltliner (We-inviertel). This subtle but refreshing wine

strikes a wonderful balance between fresh pear notes and citrus zestiness and texture. It’s spicy and versatile. Michael Skurnik Wines. —A.K. abv: 12.5% Price: $26

90 Stadt Krems 2013 Weinzierlberg Grüner Velt-liner (Kremstal). It offers exuberant green

pears in a linear body, shaped slenderly by citrus zest. It resonates with ripeness, savory spice and mineral focus. Winebow. —A.K. abv: 12.5% Price: $28

90 Stift Klosterneuburg 2013 Grüner Veltliner (Niederösterreich). Fragrant, refreshing,

spritzy, citrusy—this wine is like a dictionary of descriptive Grüner terms. It even provides an edge of that much-loved pepperiness. Leopold Imports LLC. —A.K. abv: 12% Price: $NA

90 Tegernseerhof 2013 T 26 Grüner Veltliner Federspiel (Wachau). Ripe peach mingles

with a mix of phenolics and zestiness on the con-centrated midpalate. Structured and spicy, it de-livers peppery impact and a prolonged finish. KW Selection. —A.K. abv: 12.5% Price: $18

90 Türk 2013 Kremser Weinberge Grüner Velt-liner (Kremstal). Lifted lemony freshness

greets the nose, while savoriness dominates the pal-ate. It offers pear and citrus, as well as riper stone-fruit, earthy hints and pungent watercress and white pepper—all packaged in a ripe but stream-lined body. Niche Import Company. Best Buy. —A.K. abv: 12.5% Price: $13

90 Türk 2013 Vom Urgestein Grüner Veltliner (Kremstal). Still closed, this only begins to

show its fresh, rounded passion fruit and mango-cocktail flavors after it has had some air. The palate is concentrated and precise. This will come into its own by 2015. Niche Import Company. —A.K. abv: 12.5% Price: $16

90 Unger 2013 Zieselrain Grüner Veltliner (Kremstal). While the citrus aromas are

subtle, the linear palate discloses lemony con-

centration and green pear, lending precision and structure rather than aromatics. The wine calls for sturdy food. Adventures In Wine. —A.K. abv: 12.5% Price: $NA

90 Weszeli 2013 Langenlois Grüner Veltliner (Kamptal). Green pear peel and citrus zest

promise refreshment, framed on a linear, focused palate with lots of citrus precision. Invigorating and clean-cut, this will shine on a hot day. —A.K. abv: 12.5% Price: $20

90 Weszeli 2013 Steinhaus Grüner Veltliner (Kamptal). This still needs a little time

to come into its own but all the principal features are present. A concentrated palate provides texture framed by fresh acidity, linear length and fleshy fruit, hinting at ripe pears and yellow plums. Savio Soares Selections. —A.K. abv: 12.5% Price: $23

90 Wieninger 2013 Vienna Hills Grüner Velt-liner (Vienna). Just a touch of fresh citrus

plays on the nose, but the palate delivers textured mouthfeel and peppery, leafy freshness. Although the acidity is cushioned, the wine is refreshing and leaves a super-clean finish. Winebow. —A.K. abv: 13% Price: $22

89 Bernhard Ott 2013 Am Berg Grüner Veltliner (Niederösterreich). Ripe Concord pear and

lemon zest beckon on the nose, and a lively lemon vein goes right through this refreshing little num-ber. Drink now, preferably with lots of sunshine. —A.K. abv: 12% Price: $19

89 Brandl 2013 Grüner Veltliner (Kamptal). Freshness, spritz and a lemony citrus focus

are the attractive main features here, making for poised refreshment. MS Walker. —A.K. abv: 12.5% Price: $15

89 Domäne Wachau 2013 Terrassen Grüner Velt-liner Federspiel (Wachau). Restrained and

soft on the nose, this light-bodied white offers sub-tle lemon zestiness and a phenolic seam that pro-vide structure and food-friendliness with a savory, almost herbal edge. Vin Divino. —A.K. abv: 12.5% Price: $16

89 H. & M. Hofer 2013 Von Den Rieden Grüner Veltliner (Weinviertel). Fresh pear peel and

citrus shimmer on the nose. The palate delivers zesty freshness, gentle texture with a little spritz and enticing arugula and white pepper spice in a rounded body. Michael Skurnik Wines. —A.K. abv: 12.5% Price: $22

89 Hermann Moser 2013 Gelbling Grüner Velt-liner (Kremstal). Peppery arugula leaves

and ripe passion fruit are a winning combination on this textured, spritzy white. In particular the pas-

WINEMAG.COM | 7 1

sion fruit lingers attractively on the palate. Drink as fresh as possible. Boutique Wine Collection. —A.K. abv: 12.5% Price: $21

89 Höpler 2013 Grüner Veltliner (Burgenland). A hint of lime and green pear peel, a touch

of pepper and passion fruit: this subtle and light white does not give too much away. However its acidity and texture make it a versatile and satisfying food partner. USA Wine Imports. —A.K. abv: 11.5% Price: $17

89 Hugl-Wimmer 2013 Hugl Grüner Veltliner (Niederösterreich). A fresh scent of green

pears greets the nose. What follows comes in a light, crisp citrus vein, supported by a rounded mouth-feel. A refreshing wine for immediate drinking. Ky-sela Père et Fils. —A.K. abv: 13.5% Price: $13/1 L

89 Ingrid Groiss 2013 Grüner Veltliner (Wein-viertel). Expect zesty, rounded and spritzy

freshness from this fruit-driven little tonic; it’s a pear and citrus party in the glass. Circo Vino. —A.K. abv: 12.5% Price: $18

89 Josef Jamek 2013 Ried Achleiten Grüner Veltliner Federspiel (Wachau). Rather quiet

at first, this wine unfurls into a soft but textured palate. This balanced white lives more off structure than aroma; the herbal white pepperiness is to be savored. Carlo Huber Selections. —A.K. abv: 12.5% Price: $NA

89 Laurenz V. 2013 Laurenz V and Sophie Sing-ing Grüner Veltliner (Niederösterreich).

Opening with a clean-cut scent of ripe green pears this has refreshing, lemony zip in a rounded, soft body. Folio Fine Wine Partners. —A.K. abv: 12% Price: $16

89 Machherndl 2013 Kollmütz Grüner Veltliner Federspiel (Wachau). Zippy green pear

and a spritz of lemon make this an inviting and al-most thirst-quenching choice. Poised acidity pulls through to the zesty finish. Broadbent Selections, Inc. —A.K. abv: 12.5% Price: $16

89 Markus Huber 2013 Hugo Grüner Veltliner (Niederösterreich). A scented mix of ivy

leaves, green pears and citrus segues into a spicy, peppery but crisp palate. A light and refreshing quaff, this is easily enjoyed with or without food. Drink now. Circo Vino. Best Buy. —A.K. abv: 12% Price: $13

89 Markus Huber 2013 Terrassen Grüner Velt-liner (Traisental). Green pear aromas are

joined by a playful, floral note and lifted lightness; on the slender palate there is peppery arugula, too. A super-refreshing summer white. Broadbent Se-lections, Inc. —A.K. abv: 12.5% Price: $16

89 Nastl 2013 Kittmannsberg Grüner Veltliner (Kamptal). Tinged with green pear, the

gentle palate has a core of buffered acidity, fine tex-ture and a focus of lemony intensity. Wine Without Borders. —A.K. abv: 12.5% Price: $NA

89 Nastl 2013 Klassik Grüner Veltliner (Nie-derösterreich). A profusion of green Confer-

ence pears and refreshing spritz make this crisp and pale white ideal for a summer party. Wine Without Borders. —A.K. abv: 12% Price: $NA

89 Nittnaus Hans und Christine 2013 Heide-boden Grüner Veltliner (Burgenland). Grassy

overtones and freshly clipped boxwood turn this into an aromatic, fragrant wine with a lithe body but lots of aromatic depth, with hints of tropical passion fruit underneath. Drink now. Wein Bauer Inc.. Best Buy. —A.K. abv: 12% Price: $12

89 Salomon-Undhof 2013 Wieden & Berg Grüner Veltliner (Kremstal). Texture rather

than aroma is the main appeal of this slender white. The nose is restrained but the palate has spicy hints of pepper. While citrus dominates, it also shows a riper notion of tangy passion fruit. Fruit of the Vines, Inc. —A.K. abv: 12.5% Price: $25

89 Setzer 2013 Easy To Drink Grüner Veltliner (Niederösterreich). Lemon, lime and light-

ness with edges of white pepper and arugula make for a super-refreshing, light crisp wine. Drink now. —A.K. abv: 11% Price: $NA

89 Stadt Krems 2013 Grüner Veltliner (Krem-stal). Green pear peel and flesh dominate

nose and palate and make for a fruit-driven, slender but concentrated white. The melting texture is an added bonus. Winebow. —A.K. abv: 12.5% Price: $16

89 Stift Göttweig 2013 Goettweiger Berg Grüner Veltliner (Kremstal). Lifted green pear and

passion fruit come in a clean but slender package that offers easy, zingy refreshment. Circo Vino. —A.K. abv: 12.5% Price: $25

89 Weingut Christ 2013 Bruch Grüner Veltliner (Vienna). There’s lots of zesty lemon on

nose and palate; all that freshness is buffered by a textural and super-savory element on the midpal-ate. This balanced wine delivers quietly but con-vincingly. Carlo Huber Selections. —A.K. abv: 12.5% Price: $23

89 Weixelbaum 2013 Ried Wechselberg Grüner Veltliner (Kamptal). Lychee and peach

notes recall ripe fruit, tempered by lemony fresh-ness on the focused palate. Nonetheless, this wine is

rounder, suggesting soft, runny cheeses as an ideal match. Overtones of pepper are a bonus. H.Mercer Wine & Spirit Imports. —A.K. abv: 12.7% Price: $NA

89 Winzer Krems 2013 Kremser Sandgrube Grüner Veltliner (Kremstal). For full review

see page 7. Best Buy. abv: 12.5% Price: $14

89 Winzer Krems 2013 Sandgrube 13 Edition Chremisa Grüner Veltliner (Niederöster-

reich). A ripe, rounded notion comes to play on this crisp white, imbuing it with additional body and rich lychee flavors. A fruity little wonder for imme-diate drinking pleasure. Total Wine & More. —A.K. abv: 13.5% Price: $24

88 Anton Bauer 2013 Gmörk Grüner Veltliner (Wagram-Donauland). Almost billowy like

a cloud on a summer sky, it combines the virtues of easy but rounded refreshment, subtle citrus and pear aromas with perfect lightness. Select Wines. —A.K. abv: 12% Price: $14

88 Fritsch 2013 Steinberg Grüner Veltliner (Wa-gram-Donauland). It shows an altogether

riper aspect of Grüner. Yellow pear, yellow plum and notions of peach appear and give way to a rounded, generous palate with lots of phenolic backbone and structure. It can definitely shine with substantial food. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. Best Buy. —A.K. abv: 12.5% Price: $10

88 Gruber Röschitz 2013 Grüner Veltliner (Wein-viertel). Tropical hints of passion fruit join

freshly cut pear in the aroma stakes. The palate is zesty, fresh and ever so slightly spritzy, making for easy, very enjoyable drinking. Deutsch Family Wine & Spirits. —A.K. abv: NA Price: $19

88 Gruber Röschitz 2013 Hundspoint Grüner Veltliner (Weinviertel). A fresh and zesty

nose leds to a concentrated and refreshing body with echoes of that wonderful pepperiness. Light but very enjoyable. Deutsch Family Wine & Spirits. —A.K. abv: 13% Price: $25

88 Josef Ehmoser 2013 Von Den Terrassen Grüner Veltliner (Wagram-Donauland).

Creamy pear with overtones of mint presents an inviting nose for this soft but streamlined wine. Ever-so-slight fizz lends additional freshness. David Bowler Wine. —A.K. abv: 12% Price: $15

88 Lenz Moser 2013 Grüner Veltliner (Niederös-terreich). An almost tropical hint of passion

fruit and mango enters the lemony pepper realms of

BUYINGGUIDE

72 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | AUGUST 2014

Grüner: an intriguing variation on this soft, pleas-ing white. Niche Import Company. Best Buy. —A.K. abv: 12% Price: $10/1 L

88 Mantlerhof 2013 Lössterrassen Grüner Velt-liner (Kremstal). Very ripe flavors of yellow

pear gain focus on the palate where they are framed by grapefruit zest. There’s an earthy pull, too, and lots and lots of texture. T. Edward Wines Ltd. —A.K. abv: 12.5% Price: $21

88 Netzl 2013 Grüner Veltliner (Carnuntum). Citrus scents mingle with green pear peel. A

textural vestige of phenolics suggests that this wine belongs on the table. Select Wines. —A.K. abv: 12.5% Price: $15

88 Pleil 2013 Pfaffenhölzl Grüner Veltliner (We-inviertel). Floral notes enhance the pear fla-

vors and lend playfulness to the rounded but light body that also offers edges of spicy white pepper. Rad Grapes. —A.K. abv: 13% Price: $NA

88 Pratsch 2013 Made With Organic Grapes Grüner Veltliner (Niederösterreich). For full

review see page 7. Best Buy. abv: 12.5% Price: $15/1 L

88 R&A Pfaffl 2013 Austrian Pepper Grüner Veltliner (Niederösterreich). Clean, tight

and crisp, this treads a straight, citrusy path seamed by a phenolic touch and the aroma of crisp, green pears. Palm Bay International. —A.K. abv: 12% Price: $14

88 R&A Pfaffl 2013 Hundsleiten Reserve Grüner Veltliner (Weinviertel). The nose is subdued

and rounded, while some green pear aromatics play on the palate of this mild wine. It still takes time to come out of its shell, but will become full-fruited and open up by 2015. Palm Bay International. —A.K. abv: 13.5% Price: $30

88 Soellner 2013 Hengstberg Grüner Veltliner (Wagram-Donauland). A little lemon, a lit-

tle pear and a little spritz on the palate are backed by wonderful texture. This will be even better when served with food, even though the lemony acidity on the round body makes for easy drinking. Weygandt-Metzler. —A.K. abv: 12.5% Price: $NA

88 Stadlmann 2013 Grüner Veltliner (Niederös-terreich). Ripeness and a rich, phenolic edge

dominate. Savory notes of lovage and an earthy un-dertone would make this a great companion for ripe, soft cheeses. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —A.K. abv: 12.5% Price: $NA

88 Zantho 2013 Grüner Veltliner (Burgenland). Ripe and aromatic yellow pears on the nose

combine with bright lemon freshness on the palate

to result in a zingy summer wine. Drink now. Vin Divino. Best Buy. —A.K. abv: 12% Price: $12

87 Martinshof 2013 Hausberg Grüner Veltliner (Weinviertel). The nose is subdued but sa-

vory. There is also slight spritz and a pliable, round-ed freshness in this uncomplicated but friendly white. Carlo Huber Selections. —A.K. abv: 12% Price: $NA

87 Salomon-Undhof 2013 Hochterassen Grüner Veltliner (Niederösterreich). Peppery notes

of arugula and fresh lemon acidity add interest to this easy-drinking white. Fruit of the Vines, Inc. —A.K. abv: 12.5% Price: $17

87 Soellner 2013 Wogenrain Grüner Veltliner (Wagram-Donauland). Roundness and spice

feature strongly here. A phenolic midpalate gives backbone and suggests that this is best had with food where its structure will come into play. Wey-gandt-Metzler. —A.K. abv: 12% Price: $NA

87 Winzer Krems 2013 Kellermeister Privat Kremser Goldberg Grüner Veltliner (Krem-

stal). Soft and ripe green pears play on nose and palate where that textural, phenolic mouthfeel is the main feature, suggesting that this belongs firmly on the table. Total Wine & More. —A.K. abv: 12.5% Price: $18

86 Pleil 2013 Klassik Grüner Veltliner (Weinvier-tel). Spritzy freshness, lemony hints and a

slender body combine to make an uncomplicated but rewarding summer wine. Rad Grapes. —A.K. abv: 12.5% Price: $NA

86 R&A Pfaffl 2013 Zeiseneck Grüner Veltliner (Weinviertel). Subtle notes of green and

yellow pears play on the nose and the almost gentle palate. Refreshing but easygoing for uncomplicated summer drinking. Palm Bay International. —A.K. abv: 12% Price: $15

86 Schwarzböck 2013 Vom Bisamberg Grüner Veltliner (Weinviertel). Ripe and juicy green

and yellow pears abound on the nose, while the pal-ate is soft, fresh and makes for easy summer drink-ing. —A.K. abv: 12.5% Price: $NA

86 Unger 2013 Q Grüner Veltliner (Niederöster-reich). Fresh green pear in a light, crisp and

uncomplicated body spell refreshment. Drink now. Verity Wine Partners. Best Buy. —A.K. abv: 12% Price: $9

85 Fritsch 2013 Grüner Veltliner (Niederöster-reich). Ripe yellow pears are barely tem-

pered by citrus freshness. The palate has a slight

bitter note but lovely ripeness nonetheless. Monika Caha Selections. —A.K. abv: 12% Price: $NA

85 Winzer Krems 2013 13 Grüner Veltliner (Nie-derösterreich). Savory, citrusy and pear-

scented, this is fresh, crisp and light, making it ideal for a party. Total Wine & More. —A.K. abv: 12.5% Price: $13

84 Landhaus Mayer 2013 Grüner Veltliner (Nie-derösterreich). Soft and pliable in body, it

has gentle citrus hints and crisp acidity. MS Walker. —A.K. abv: 12% Price: $15

SAUVIGNON BLANC

90 Gross 2013 Jakobi Sauvignon Blanc (Süd-steiermark). Touches of flint play subtly

on this elegantly restrained wine. A central seam of fresh, mineral acidity also provides an extended fin-ish. This strikes great harmony between a rounded but defined body, streamlined acidity and a mineral background. Fruit of the Vines, Inc. —A.K. abv: 12.5% Price: $NA

90 Nittnaus Hans und Christine 2013 Obere Wies Sauvignon Blanc (Burgenland). Heady

aromas of very ripe passion fruit as well as crack-ling, zingy acidity combine here to great, refreshing effect. Intense and very long with quintessential va-rietal character, it delivers a real dash of tropicality. Best Buy. —A.K. abv: 12.5% Price: $15

90 Sattlerhof 2013 Gamlitzer Sauvignon Blanc (Südsteiermark). Pink grapefruit, freshly

cut grass and ripe peaches create a winning trio, neither overtly aromatic nor too restrained. Ripe but zesty acidity and mineral depth ensure that this is serious but eminently enjoyable. Circo Vino. —A.K. abv: 12.5% Price: $31

89 Gross 2013 Steirische Klassik Sauvignon Blanc (Südsteiermark). Zingy lime peel

keeps a tight handle on the more tropical fruit, while glimpses of flint and smoke shine through. This more subtle example of Sauvigon Blanc main-tains a zesty, refreshing focus. Fruit of the Vines, Inc. —A.K. abv: 13% Price: $NA

89 Neumeister 2013 Steirische Klassik Sauvi-gnon Blanc (Südoststeiermark). Restrained

aromas compete against plump ripeness; brisk, lemony acidity provides balance. It features a subtle mineral background and lovely midpalate concen-tration with some length. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —A.K. abv: 13% Price: $25

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89 Strauss 2013 Classic Sauvignon Blanc (Stei-ermark). Peach hovers subtly around the

nose, and ripeness that is European rather than tropical envelopes the palate. Rounded and friendly, this is full-fruited and focused. The aromatic re-straint suits it to the table. Select Wines. —A.K. abv: 12.5% Price: $25

89 Tement 2013 Steirische Klassik Sauvignon Blanc (Südsteiermark). Smokiness initially

clouds the abundant passion fruit aromas. The pal-ate comes through with lemon and lime freshness, still trailing a hint of flinty smoke. Streamlined and refreshing, it has an almost mineral background. Weygandt-Metzler. —A.K. abv: 12.5% Price: $NA

88 Esterházy 2013 Estoras Sauvignon Blanc (Burgenland). Tart passion fruit and spritzy

citrus destine this for hot summer days. It’s full of refreshing zing, packaged in a light, sprightly but concentrated body. Wein Bauer Inc.. —A.K. abv: 13.5% Price: $15

88 Glatzer 2013 Sauvignon Blanc (Carnuntum). The allure of ripe but zingy passion fruit

proves almost irresistible. Juicy and plump, the pal-ate is saved by citrus freshness. Tropical fruit rules and makes for immense, easy pleasure. Michael Skurnik Wines. —A.K. abv: 12% Price: $20

88 Zantho 2013 Sauvignon Blanc (Burgen-land). Rounded, rich and tropical notions

of mango and passion fruit dominate the nose. The palate is more restrained and focuses on zesty, cit-rusy freshness. A total winner where refreshment is concerned: easy, fresh and zippy. Vin Divino. Best Buy. —A.K. abv: 12.5% Price: $12

87 Umathum 2013 Sauvignon Blanc (Burgen-land). The zestness of lemons tames most of

Sauvignon Blanc’s varietal exuberance and makes for a refreshing, restrained wine. Winemonger. —A.K. abv: 12.5% Price: $25

WEISSBURGUNDER

90 Martinshof 2011 Reserve Weissburgunder (Niederösterreich). A slightly funky nose

with edges of earth and smoke gives way to ripe, yellow pear and a hazelnut midpalate with a touch of minerality and an appealing whiff of smoke. Carlo Huber Selections. —A.K. abv: 14.5% Price: $NA

89 Höpler 2013 Pinot Blanc (Burgenland). An intriguing mix of fragrant white summer

blossom and ripe pears with a faint edge of hazel-nutty oak is merely a prelude to a tight, textured but

wonderfully pure pear-fruited palate. USA Wine Imports. —A.K. abv: 12% Price: $19

89 Sattlerhof 2013 Gamlitzer Weissburgunder (Südsteiermark). It offers a flinty combo of

fruit: ripe red apple, a suggestion of passion fruit, juicy yellow pear and lots of zesty citrus, all gath-ered in a streamlined palate with just a little spritz. With both body and focus, it’s immensely versatile. Circo Vino. —A.K. abv: 12.5% Price: $24

88 Glatzer 2013 Weissburgunder (Carnuntum). Ripe yellow pear with the faintest sug-

gestion of something tropical, like passion fruit, leads to a full-fruited, generous palate that is kept in check by structure and zesty acidity. Michael Skurnik Wines. —A.K. abv: 12.5% Price: $19

88 Tement 2013 Steirische Klassik Weissbur-gunder (Südsteiermark). Slight spritz greets

the nose, which gives nothing more away than zesty lemon. This is a slender but textured Pinot Blanc with lovely zing. Weygandt-Metzler. —A.K. abv: 12% Price: $NA

84 Judith Beck 2013 Weissburgunder (Burgen-land). Almost completely subdued, the

nose suggests only faint earthiness. The palate is rounded and full of ripe pear but lacks focus. VOS Selections. —A.K. abv: 12.5% Price: $NA

CHARDONNAY

90 Hannes Reeh 2013 Chardonnay (Burgen-land). The faintest touch of vanilla and

cream barely manages to contain the fragrance of white summer blossom. The palate offers a return to classically restrained, creamy but well-integrated oaked Chardonnay with light-footed balance. Acid Inc Selections. —A.K. abv: 14% Price: $19

90 Netzl 2013 Chardonnay (Carnuntum). Creamy yellow plum fruit and a flinty edge

lead onto a full-fruited, brightly lit palate where all the fruit is pulled into zesty orange and lemon fo-cus. Concentration and friendliness prove great as-sets here. KW Selection. Best Buy. —A.K. abv: 13.5% Price: $15

90 Nittnaus Hans und Christine 2013 Heide-boden Chardonnay (Burgenland). It offers

ripe but restrained yellow plums and a citrusy and textured midpalate focused on lees and acidity. With just the right amount of weight and lightness, it manages that tightrope walk between rounded body and tingling acidity. Best Buy. —A.K. abv: 13% Price: $15

90 Strauss 2013 Classic Chardonnay (Steier-mark). Faint lemon zest and a touch of

green pear hardly give anything away on the nose, while the palate is balanced and light. Variety speaks louder than origin here, but with poise and honesty. Select Wines. —A.K. abv: 12.5% Price: $21

89 Alphart 2013 Vom Berg Chardonnay (Ther-menregion). Restrained Mirabelle fruit is

contained on a focused and streamlined palate that provides as much refreshment as it does texture. It manages to refresh and has lots of backbone. Winemonger. —A.K. abv: 13% Price: $25

89 Neumeister 2013 Steirische Klassik Morillon (Südoststeiermark). Freshly cut green pear

mingles with ripe white currant in a restrained but fresh and focused body that also reveals numer-ous shades of pear fruit. In Styria, the local name for Chardonnay is Morillon. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —A.K. abv: 12.5% Price: $24

89 Sattlerhof 2013 Morillon (Südsteiermark). Hints of passion fruit sneak up on the nose

of this fragrant wine, lifting up the smoky, mineral palate. Wonderfully tangy and fresh. Circo Vino. —A.K. abv: 12.5% Price: $27

GELBER MUSKATELLER

90 Domäne Wachau 2013 Terrassen Gelber Mus-kateller (Wachau). Scented white Muscat

grapes are undeniably present, but come to the fore in an elegant, subdued way. They play on a slender, citrus-focused and pleasantly light body, like a fra-grant veil of silk. Vin Divino. —A.K. abv: 11.5% Price: $19

90 Stadlmann 2013 Kapellenweg Gelber Mus-kateller (Niederösterreich). A faint hint of

apricot and a ripe, deep core of red-cheeked Mira-belle plums come with a lively dash of lemon acid-ity. Balanced and light, it’s also lively with a seam of refreshing acidity, making it an ideal apéritif. Valley View Wine Sales. —A.K. abv: 12% Price: $NA

89 Nigl 2013 Gelber Muskateller (Niederöster-reich). The restrained perfume of white

Muscat grapes dances on nose and slimline palate. This is a light-weight, perfumed but subtle apéritif that would also work alongside freshly cut tropical fruit, a summer wine if ever there were one. Michael Skurnik Wines. —A.K. abv: 11.5% Price: $26

88 Schwarzböck 2013 Gelber Muskateller (Nie-derösterreich). Muscat perfume and fresh-

ness are hinted at through the almost tropically rich nose of guava and melon. Flavors are tempered by

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74 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | AUGUST 2014

fresh acidity and a dry, but textured palate with faint echoes of alluring passion fruit. Michael Skurnik Wines. —A.K. abv: 11.5% Price: $22

88 Tement 2013 Steirische Klassik Gelber Mus-kateller (Südsteiermark). A spray of fra-

grant summer blossom and a spritz of mandarin zest promise fruit-driven, gentle but very effective refreshment. The light body is very elegant and rather moreish. Weygandt-Metzler. —A.K. abv: 11.5% Price: $NA

86 Neumeister 2013 Steirische Klassik Gelber Muskateller (Südoststeiermark). Heady and

broad in its floral aromatic aspect at first, it then co-alesces into a firmer body with a seam of fresh, lem-ony acidity. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —A.K. abv: 11.5% Price: $23

WHITE BLENDS

91 Spaetrot Gebeshuber 2013 Klassik Zier-fandler-Rotgipfler (Thermenregion). Lifted

purity of ripe Williams pear and a streamlined but not unsubstantial body combine to make a compel-ling, abundantly pear-fruited wine. It manages to be slender, rich and mineral at the same time. Vignaioli Selection. —A.K. abv: 12.5% Price: $20

91 Stift Klosterneuburg 2013 Zierfandler-Rot-gipfler (Thermenregion). A restrained but

lusciously ripe pear scent emanates from the deep, rounded and nutty core, supported by acidic verve. Boutique Wine Collection. —A.K. abv: 12.5% Price: $25

90 Lenikus 2013 Wiener Gemischter Satz (Vien-na). Lovage, ripe pear and a yeasty under-

tone speak separately before uniting into a mellow, food-friendly, concentrated but streamlined white. There is lots of subtly spiced midpalate interest to linger over. This cries out for food, especially soft cheeses. Savio Soares Selections. —A.K. abv: 12.5% Price: $NA

90 Stift Klosterneuburg 2013 Wiener Gemis-chter Satz (Vienna). Creamy pear and aloe

vera act like a cooling cushion for fresh, zesty acid-ity. This is lively, tight and not for faint hearts, but totally rewarding with its uncompromising refresh-ment. Leopold Imports LLC. —A.K. abv: 12% Price: $NA

90 Weingut Christ 2013 Wiener Gemischter Satz (Vienna). Green pear and flinty smoke an-

nounce a clean, mineral and linear palate. Slender and poised, it wins you over with a softer, textural core. It refreshes and soothes in equal measure and echoes with satisfying length. Carlo Huber Selec-tions. —A.K. abv: 12% Price: $20

89 Alphart 2013 Zierfandler-Rotgipfler (Ther-menregion). Powdery pear and rounded,

ripe red apples play on a textured palate, where they are joined by pithy grapefruit peel. A stream-lined but full-bodied white, it offers deep, intrigu-ing notions of earth and stone and a long finish. Winemonger. —A.K. abv: 12.5% Price: $NA

89 Ingrid Groiss 2013 Gemischter Satz (Nie-derösterreich). The scent of ripe, red-

cheeked apples perfumes this tight and linear offer-ing. It refreshes with almost spritzy lemon peel and comes across as a zippy but concentrated summer wine. Circo Vino. —A.K. abv: 13% Price: $21

89 Tinhof 2013 Blanc (Burgenland). Restrained ripeness does not make this an obvious

wine, but it comes towards you if you spend time with it. Notions of yellow pear and Golden Delicious apple partner with an herbal twist and refreshing citrus acidity. Carlo Huber Selections. —A.K. abv: 12.5% Price: $NA

89 Wieninger 2013 Wiener Gemischter Satz (Vi-enna). Restrained yet ripe nuttiness with

spikes of lemon zest characterize this slender, re-freshing white. It is made from a typically Viennese field blend of 11 different white grape varieties—guaranteed to show its true and arresting colors with richer food. Winebow. —A.K. abv: 12.5% Price: $26

88 Hillinger 2013 Small Hill White (Burgen-land). Enticing notes of honeysuckle and

ripe peachiness make for an aromatic summer white with an uncomplicated but inviting presence. Guar-anteed to put a smile on your face with its aromatic freshness and light body. Select Wines. —A.K. abv: 11.5% Price: $16

88 Tement 2013 Temento (Südsteiermark). Green pear peel mixed with ripe but tart

yellow apples—think Cox Orange Pippin—comes across with a disarming purity. Spritz enlivens the slender, light body and makes for perfect refresh-ment. Weygandt-Metzler. —A.K. abv: 11.5% Price: $NA

87 Johanneshof Reinisch 2013 Gumpoldskirch-ner Tradition (Thermenregion). Earthy notes

of wild mushrooms, soy sauce and citrus peel make for an unusual nose on this blend of indigenous and rare Austrian varieties Rotgipfler and Zierfandler. Friendly, ripe and rounded yellow and red apples play on the palate of this unusual but very versatile wine. Circo Vino. —A.K. abv: 12.5% Price: $20

85 Neumeister 2013 Gemischter Satz (Südost-steiermark). Lemon and apple lend shape

to this clean and uncomplicated white that boasts

a little spice on the midpalate. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —A.K. abv: 12% Price: $17

85 Sattlerhof 2013 Vom Sand (Südsteiermark). Disclosing soft citrus and a balanced palate

without any hard edges, it’s honest and unpreten-tious. Circo Vino. —A.K. abv: 12% Price: $NA

84 Spaetrot Gebeshuber 2013 Querfeldein (Thermenregion). Freshness and slight aro-

matics play against an earthy, phenolic palate. Vig-naioli Selection. —A.K. abv: 12.5% Price: $18

OTHER WHITE WINES

91 Judith Beck 2013 Neuburger (Burgenland). Earth, yeast, ripe red apples and some oaky

spice defy expectations. A little bit funky but end-lessly intriguing, this wine will complement food, especially if there are mushrooms and bitter leaves. The soft and concentrated palate is rich but does not lack in refreshment. A spike of spearmint keeps you coming back. VOS Selections. —A.K. abv: 12.5% Price: $NA

90 Soellner 2013 Sonnseit’n Roter Veltliner (Wagram-Donauland). Some lively spritz

gives this pear-peel and aloe-scented white even more cleansing freshness. There is something of a cool, pure mountain stream about this wine, with fine, ripe green pear at is core and a yeasty after-taste. Weygandt-Metzler. —A.K. abv: 12% Price: $NA

90 Tinhof 2013 Muskat (Burgenland). At first it reveals a layer of damask rose petals and

white blossom. Then a deeper, riper notion unfolds, almost hinting at pineapple. Concentrated but slen-der, the palate manages to remain refreshing and light despite the heady aromas. Perfectly pitched with just a hint of spice. Carlo Huber Selections. —A.K. abv: 11.5% Price: $NA

89 Eichinger 2013 Roter Veltliner (Niederöster-reich). Ripe and glowing Mirabelle plum on

nose and palate spells a fruit-driven, fresh and joy-ous wine. A textured core and precise acidity under-lie its seemingly uncomplicated surface. Weygandt-Metzler. —A.K. abv: 13% Price: $NA

89 Neumeister 2013 Grauburgunder (Südost-steiermark). Savory herbs like lovage and

chervil and ripe pear fruit unite to produce a very appetizing, concentrated if uncomplicated wine. Sheer drinkability, spurred on by clean, racy acid-ity is its hallmark. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —A.K. abv: 13% Price: $23

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89 Nittnaus Hans und Christine 2013 Halbtrock-en Off-Dry Muskat Ottonel (Burgenland).

Lime zest and floral-but-clean edges accompany ripe mandarin fruit on the generous but slender body. The wine is both full-fruited and balanced. Best Buy. —A.K. abv: 11.5% Price: $12

89 Strauss 2013 Sämling 88 Classic Scheurebe (Steiermark). Yellow and green pear, leaves

of lemon balm and juicy chunks of pineapple play on nose and palate. It’s fresh, completely fruit-driv-en and provides lots of simple, honest joy. Select Wines. —A.K. abv: 12.5% Price: $18

89 Zantho 2013 Muskat Ottonel (Burgenland). A rather decadent Muskat, it conveys rose

petals and Turkish delight. A rich, textured but dry palate with overtones of blood orange is juxtaposed by fresh lemon acidity. Balance it with equally opu-lent food. Vin Divino. Best Buy. —A.K. abv: 12% Price: $12

88 Alphart 2013 Vom Berg Rotgipfler (Ther-menregion). Aromas of vanilla-baked apple

makes for an inviting, mellow white wine whose richness is tempered by a structured, almost phe-nolic palate. Made from an indigenous Austrian va-riety, it’s versatile and will shine when served with hearty, rich foods. Winemonger. —A.K. abv: 13% Price: $25

88 Johanneshof Reinisch 2013 Rotgipfler (Ther-menregion). Hints of rhubarb, earth and

a certain nuttiness on the nose lead onto a rich, rounded and savory palate. Red, ripe apples star along with an earthy texture that yields a pleasant tinge of bitterness. This belongs firmly on the table. Circo Vino. —A.K. abv: 12.5% Price: $20

88 Tinhof 2013 Neuburger (Burgenland). Lifted citrus- and pear-scented refreshment de-

scribes this wine’s purpose. Zesty lemon peel bal-anced by lots of green pear fruit makes a winning combination. Carlo Huber Selections. —A.K. abv: 13% Price: $NA

86 Kirnbauer 2013 Welschriesling (Austria). The faintest hint of pineapple signals ripe

fruit on the nose. Soft but fresh, the palate delivers uncomplicated, unoaked and simple drinking plea-sure with a seam of fresh acidity. H.Mercer Wine & Spirit Imports. —A.K. abv: 11% Price: $12

86 Kracher 2013 Pinot Gris (Burgenland). Herb-al savoriness and hints of green pear on an

otherwise neutral and clean nose promise sleek but uncomplicated refreshment. Ideal for entertaining. Terlato Wines International. —A.K. abv: 13% Price: $22

ROSÉS

91 Umathum 2013 Rosa (Burgenland). The deeper shade of rose-petal pink promises in-

tensity that the nose does not fail to deliver. Ripe red cherry fruit is framed by the aromatic lift of net-tle leaves. The palate is bone-dry but echoes with that refreshing trinity of nettle, cherry and lemon. A vestige of tannin provides welcome backbone.IWinemonger. Editors’ Choice. —A.K. abv: 13% Price: $25

90 H. & M. Hofer 2013 Zweigelt Rosé (Niederös-terreich). Just-ripe strawberries rule nose

and palate, where they are joined by citrus fresh-ness and the tart but rounded richness of rosehip tisane. Fresh and dry, this pretty, pale-pink wine is made for the table. Michael Skurnik Wines. —A.K. abv: 13.5% Price: $22

90 Weixelbaum 2013 Gemischter Satz aus Merlot, Syrah & Zweigelt Rosé (Niederöster-

reich). Restrained aromatics slowly release notes of strawberry cheesecake in a soft, light and mellow body. It carries enough heft to pair with food allied with lovely, fresh acidity. H.Mercer Wine & Spirit Imports. —A.K. abv: 12% Price: $NA

89 Unger 2013 Q Rosé (Niederösterreich). This restrained, salmon-tinged rosé teases with

riper fruit, even with a red-berry compote of red currant and strawberry. The plump fruit is held in a dry frame and tempered by freshness. Equally tempting with or without food. Verity Wine Part-ners. Best Buy. —A.K. abv: 12.5% Price: $10

88 Jäger 2013 Zweigelt Rosé (Wachau). Pale pink in color, it has a slender body and am-

ple lemon acidity that promise soothing coolness on a hot day. Linear, lemony and very refreshing. Grand Cru Selections. —A.K. abv: 12.5% Price: $22

88 Pratsch 2013 Rosé (Niederösterreich). This barely salmon-colored charmer offers cit-

rus freshness in a delicate frame. It makes a light sundowner-sip and ideal apéritif. Winesellers Ltd. Best Buy. —A.K. abv: 12.5% Price: $13

RED WINE

88 H. & M. Hofer 2009 Gaissberg (Austria). Fra-grant oak spice invites you to contemplate

a mix of autumnal, ripe red fruit: plums perhaps, in a compote with strawberry. Mellow tannins come with echoes of clove and cinnamon. This friendly and soft red also works without food. Michael Skurnik Wines. —A.K. abv: 13.5% Price: $33

BUYINGGUIDE

98 Appleton Estate Aged 21 Years (Jamaica; Campari America, San Francisco, CA). For

full review see page 8. abv: 43% Price: $140

96 Cockspur Old Gold (Barbados; Cockspur USA, Manhasset, NY). Bold and flavorful,

this amber sipping rum offers sweet allspice, birch beer, brown sugar and caramel, plus darker notes of espresso and fudge. Finishes long, with a delicately spicy fade. Best Buy.abv: 40% Price: $21

95 Smith & Cross Traditional Jamaica Rum (Ja-maica; Haus Alpenz, Edina, MN). A top pick

for tiki and tropical drinks, this practically begs for lime juice. Scented with warm honey notes, the pal-ate shows lots of brown sugar and spice, plus an en-ticingly untamed, funky finish (the fabled “hogo”). Since it’s “Navy Strength,” you might not want to sip it straight up—the producer wisely recommends

exploring the profile first in a daiquiri—though it’s smooth and interesting enough if you want to try.abv: 57% Price: $29

94 Mount Gay Black Barrel (Barbados; Remy Cointreau, New York, NY). For full review see

page 8. abv: 43% Price: $30

94 Old Reserve 2001 Plantation Rum Jamaica (Jamaica; Deutsch Family Wines & Spirits,

White Plains, NY). This honey-hued rum is richly aromatic, suggesting creamy caramel and baking spice, with just a hint of banana in the background. On the palate, look for lots of spicy fireworks up-front—black pepper, hot cinnamon, clove—followed by a gentle fade of brown sugar and butterscotch. Mix for a mind-blowing mai tai.abv: 42% Price: $45

93 Appleton Estate V/X (Jamaica; Campari America, San Francisco, CA). For full review

see page 9. Best Buy.abv: 40% Price: $20

93 Old Reserve 2001 Plantation Rum Barbados (Barbados; Deutsch Family Wines & Spirits,

White Plains, NY). Tawny and bright in the glass, it shows rich caramel, brown sugar and hazelnut. The experience concludes with allspice and clove, plus a flicker of alcohol heat. abv: 42% Price: $45

91 Appleton Estate Reserve (Jamaica; Campari America, San Francisco, CA). For full review

see page 9. abv: 40% Price: $27/1 L

91 Cockspur 12 (Barbados; Cockspur USA, Manhasset, NY). Made with a blend of older

rums, this addictive sipper is on the dry side, evok-ing espresso, oak, bittersweet chocolate and cigar wrapper notes. Long and complex, the finish sug-gests spiced Mexican chocolate.abv: 40% Price: $30

91 Mount Gay Eclipse (Barbados; Remy Coin-treau, New York, NY). For full review see page

9. Best Buy.abv: 40% Price: $20

90 Cockspur Fine Rum (Barbados; Cockspur USA, Manhasset, NY). Golden in color, it

has a fresh, fruity fragrance with hints of apples, pineapple, and honey. On the palate, the experience is a bit more rich, cushioned with vanilla, honey and pecan and finishing with brisk notes of tea and ce-dar. Pair this versatile rum with ginger beer or other mixers. Best Buy.abv: 40% Price: $18

88 The Real McCoy Rum Aged 5 Years (Barba-dos; Real McCoy Spirits, West Palm Beach,

FL). Aged in former Bourbon barrels, this bright to-paz rum has notes of resin and vanilla on the nose. On the palate, it’s silky, bold with vanilla and a prickle of baking spice on the finish.abv: 40% Price: $29

87 Blue Chair Bay White Rum (Barbados; Fish-bowl Spirits, Nashville, TN). “Inspired by”

country singer Kenny Chesney, this clear rum is meant for mixing. It has a mild, lightly sweet aroma and flavor, with fleeting notes of vanilla and white pepper leading to a crisp finish.abv: 40% Price: $19

86 Cockspur Spiced Rum (Barbados; Cockspur USA, Manhasset, NY). Bright gold in the

glass, it delivers a sweet, spiced aroma recalling red-hot candies. Considering the brash aromatics, it’s a surprise to find that it’s quite mild on the tongue with a bare simmer of cinnamon on the finish—more flavor and body would be welcome.abv: 22% Price: $14

76 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | AUGUST 2014

This month’s reviews cover rums made in Jamaica and Barbados. The countries pro-duce different—but equally delicious—styles.

In general, Jamaican rum is distilled from sugar- cane molasses and is usually (though not always) pungent and full-bodied. Quite a few exhibit a funkiness in the aroma known as “hogo,” which comes from the fermented raw sugar-cane juice. This is consid-ered a desirable quality. It’s odd but amazing: if you enjoy rancio in your Cognac, consider seeking out hogo in your rum.

Ever since British Royal Navy sailors received their first rum rations during the British assault on Jamaica in 1655, Jamaica’s rum history has intertwined with naval rum. It seems fitting that a couple of high-proof “Navy strength” rums are reviewed below.

Barbadian rum has an equally rich history; the West Indian island claims to have first in-vented rum. Many of these rums are aged in for-mer Bourbon barrels, adding layers of vanilla

and spice flavors to the caramel-like base.How to use these rums? While they surely

work solo in daiquiris and other tropical liba-tions, many tiki drinks layer on multiple rums to add complexity. In the Tiki Reviver cocktail from author Jeff “Beachbum” Berry, gold Barba-dos rum (like Cockspur) and dark Jamaican rum

(like Appleton) are combined to ambrosial effect. Grab a bottle of each, and give this recipe a try:

Pour 1 ounce each fresh lime juice, nutmeg syrup (sim-ple syrup simmered with sever-al crushed whole nutmeg pods), and gold Barbados rum, 1¼ ounces dark Jamaican rum, and 1 teaspoon apricot brandy into a shaker. Shake well with plen-

ty of ice cubes, then pour unstrained into a tiki mug or a tall glass. If necessary, add more ice to fill. Top with a pinch of freshly ground nutmeg.

In addition to rums from Jamaica and Barba-dos, this month’s coverage includes a sampling of rums from other countries.

Cheers! —Kara Newman

Tropical Treats: Barbadian and Jamaican Rums to Savor

It’s odd but amazing: if you

enjoy rancio in your Cognac, consider

seeking out hogo in your rum.

SPIRITS

WINEMAG.COM | 7 7

85 Wray & Nephew White Overproof Rum (Ja-maica; Campari America, San Francisco, CA).

Despite the fact that at 126 proof it may be best suited for lighting your tiki torches, it has body and a juicy, apple-like sweetness. However, it finishes so fiery it’s literally tongue-numbing. Use sparingly as a float on top of tiki drinks.abv: 63% Price: $23

84 Cockspur 130 Overproof Rum (Barbados; Cockspur USA, Manhasset, NY). From the

first sugary whiff, the overproof nature of this clear rum is immediately evident. On the palate, it has a fleeting sweetness and boy, does it clear out the sinuses. Even mixed, it packs quite a punch. abv: 65% Price: $23

OTHER RUMS

97 Facundo Paraiso XA Rum (Bahamas; Bacardi USA, Coral Gables, FL). Nut-brown in the

glass, this conveys deep toffee, espresso and fudge notes, plus a heady sprinkling of baking spice. The finish is dry and spiced, flaunting dried orange peel and a light sherried note. The hefty, decorative bot-tle features images of the original Bacardi distillery and the Edificio Bacardi in Cuba. Part of a special-edition rum line intended to honor the founder of Bacardi and 150 years of rum-making.abv: 40% Price: $250

96 Facundo Eximo Rum (Bahamas; Bacardi USA, Coral Gables, FL). A blend of rums aged

10 years, this dark-amber beauty delivers big, sweet notes of brown sugar, Nutella and toffee finishing with allspice and clove. The notably silky, luxe feel makes for easy sipping. Part of Bacardi’s special-edition rum line.abv: 40% Price: $60

95 Angostura No. 1 (Trinidad & Tobago; Inter-national Beverage Company, Atlanta, GA).

From the company best known for aromatic bitters, this limited-edition bottling (only 9,600 bottles released, starting in January 2014), is rich, velvety and dessert-like. Look for bold, relatively sweet flavors: brown sugar, vanilla and caramel, finishing long and smooth, with warming notes of hazelnut, fudge, allspice and dry cocoa. Delicious as an after-meal sipper or dessert pairing. abv: 40% Price: $50

94 Facundo Exquisito (Bahamas; Bacardi USA, Coral Gables, FL). This bottling is made

with a “blend of rare and exquisite rums aged from 7 to 23 years.” The flavor shows brown sugar and caramel sweetness at first but dries pleasingly on the finish, conveying dark chocolate, espresso, and spice cake. Consider as a dessert pairing or post-prandial sipper. Part of Bacardi’s special-edition rum line.abv: 40% Price: $90

93 Brinley Gold Shipwreck Vanilla Rum (St. Kitts; Market Street Spirits, Glen Rock, NJ).

Blended with Madagascar vanilla extract, this fla-vored rum has a mild, oaky aroma, a rounded, ro-bust vanilla-bean flavor touched with coffee and a cinnamon zing. abv: 36% Price: $26

93 South Bay Rum (Dominican Republic; Spirit Imports, Sunrise, FL). If you can’t get your

hands on Cuban rum, this may be the next best thing. It’s a small-batch rum “produced by Cuban hands in the Dominican Republic.” It’s markedly sweet and vanilla-forward on the palate, hinting at cola and sarsaparilla, with touches of allspice, or-ange peel and clove on the finish. Sip or mix.abv: 40% Price: $29

92 Cannes Brulees Classic Dark Rum (Grenada; Eastern Caribbean Rum Co., New York, NY).

This pouring rum is light gold in the glass, with a mild, maple-like aroma. On the palate, it’s darker and warmer than you might expect, redolent of oak and vanilla plus dark chocolate and baking spice on the warm, inviting finish. abv: 40% Price: $25

91 Canne Royale Extra Old Rum (Grenada; East-ern Caribbean Rum Co., New York, NY). A

blend of five- and eight-year-old rums, this golden XO has mild vanilla and honey flavors, with some oak structure and a lively cinnamon and clove fin-ish. Feels silky, even oily, and would mix well with ginger and lime. abv: 40% Price: $35

90 Brinley Gold Shipwreck Coconut Rum (St. Kitts; Market Street Spirits, Glen Rock, NJ).

This rum blended with coconut extract makes one tasty piña colada shortcut. It’s clear, quite sweet and palate-coating like a liqueur, with bold coconut flavor.abv: 36% Price: $26

90 Facundo NEO Silver Rum (Bahamas; Bacardi USA, Coral Gables, FL). Made with rums one

to eight years old, it’s carbon-filtered after aging to remove any color. The result is a medium-bodied, silky rum perfect for top-flight mojitos. It has a bold sugar-cane aroma and lightly sweet palate, with faint marshmallow and almond sweetness. Part of Bacardi’s special-edition rum line.abv: 40% Price: $45

90 Seven Fathoms Cayman Islands Premium Rum (Cayman Islands; Luxe Wines & Spirits,

Delray Beach, FL). For full review see page 9.abv: 40% Price: $70

89 Brinley Gold Shipwreck Coffee Rum (St. Kitts; Market Street Spirits, Glen Rock, NJ).

Though this amber rum flavored with Brazilian cof-fee extract has a mild coffee aroma, it’s quite bold and syrupy on the palate. The flavor leans toward light-roasted coffee, not dark espresso, with a touch

of hazelnut on the finish. The coffee flavor doesn’t linger on forever, so it’s just right to add subtle fla-vor to cocktails.abv: 36% Price: $26

89 Cannes Brûlées Classic White Rum (Grenada; Eastern Caribbean Rum Co., New York, NY).

Clear and star-bright in the glass, this rum has a mildly sweet aroma, with a faint hint of banana. On the palate, expect light fruitiness, marshmallow sweetness and baking spice, with a lovely bloom of flavor on the finish.abv: 40% Price: $25

88 Brinley Gold Shipwreck Spiced Rum (St. Kitts; Market Street Spirits, Glen Rock, NJ).

Some spiced rums are merely colored, not aged; but this nut-brown spirit is made from a base of rum aged for four years in oak barrels. In that context, the substantial, oaky flavor makes perfect sense, rounded out by vanilla, dusty nutmeg and allspice. Mix with cola or ginger ale.abv: 36% Price: $26

88 Captain Morgan White Rum (St. Croix; Dia-geo, Norwalk, CT). This clear rum is full-

bodied, even slightly viscous, with vanilla, coconut and marshmallow sweetness and a touch of charcoal on the finish. Even smoother with ice, this should be a front-runner for mojitos and other mixed drinks.abv: 40% Price: $16

86 Brinley Gold Shipwreck Mango Rum (St. Kitts; Market Street Spirits, Glen Rock, NJ).

Golden and syrupy, this flavored rum has a juicy mango aroma. On the palate, it’s quite sweet, with a waxy, toasty note on the finish that finishes more honeyed than fruity.abv: 36% Price: $26

86 Cannes Brûlées Banane (Grenada; Eastern Caribbean Rum Co., New York, NY). This

clear flavored rum has a light banana fragrance, and a light flavor that suggests banana-flavored taffy. Use to add a hint of banana to coladas and other cocktails.abv: 30% Price: $20

86 Harvest Rum (USA; Wilderness Trail Distill-ery Danville, KY). Made from Kentucky sor-

ghum molasses and finished in used Bourbon bar-rels, this small-batch rum has plenty of personality. It has a soft golden tint and a bold, slightly funky aroma that hints at honey and bananas. On the palate, a resiny note leads, but cedes way to waxy honey, banana and a mouthwatering touch of maple. Finishes long, spiced and bold.abv: 47.5% Price: $20/375 ml

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78 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | AUGUST 2014

91 Miltenberger Dunkles Hefe Weizen Dark Wheat Beer (Dunkelweizen; Brauhaus Faust,

Germany). Don’t let the color fool you—this brown beauty may look bold and powerful, but it’s remark-ably smooth and approachable. Attractive aromas and flavors of caramel malt, toasted wheat, peanut shells, brown banana, clove and a touch of cocoa fill the nose and medium-weight mouth. Although there’s a lot going on, it’s all harmonious and well-balanced, with medium carbonation and a lightly dry, toasted-grain finish. This will pair remarkably well with hard cheeses, like cheddar or aged Gouda, as well as barbecue chicken and burgers. Iron Horse Beverage. abv: 5.2% Price: $4/500 ml

90 Belgh Brasse Mons Abbey Witte d’Abbaye (Witbier; Brasserie Belgh Brasse, Canada).

This Canadian wit is brewed with Styrian Golding and Hallertau Hersbrücker hops, as well as the typi-cal coriander and orange zest, which really shine on the bouquet. Medium weight on the palate, it’s a

well-balanced and flavorful selection, with notes of orange essence, sweet wheat malt, banana and Bel-gian yeast. The carbonation is medium intense, and there’s a subtle, dry bitterness that lingers on the finish. A refreshing yet flavorful selection, this is an ideal choice for enjoying on warm summer nights.abv: 5% Price: $10/750 ml

90 Miltenberger Helles Hefe Weizen Wheat Beer (Hefeweizen; Brauhaus Faust, Germany).

This is a clean, classic hefeweizen that’s light gold in color and pours with a thick off-white head. Tradi-tional aromas of wheat, banana, orange zest, white pepper and clove unfold in the bouquet and tran-sition into the medium-weight mouth. Additional notes of freshly baked bread, caramel malt and banana pudding add depth and richness, but are livened by the crisp texture and and ample carbon-ation. A subtle floral, whole-hop character lingers on the finish. Iron Horse Beverage. abv: 5.1% Price: $4/500 ml

89 Smuttynose Smuttlabs Pure Biss (Witbier; Smuttynose Brewing, NH). This self-ap-

pointed “unconventional wit beer” is Smuttynose’s third collaboration with a chef; in this case, it’s Ja-mie Bissonnette, chef and co-owner of restaurants Coppa and Toro in Boston and New York. Instead of going with traditional witbier-brewing additions of orange peel and coriander, Bissonnette brought kaffir lime leaves, spruce tips and grapefruit zest to the brew day. The result is an interesting take on a classic, still exhibiting traditional wit aromas and flavors of banana and yeasty spice, but with in-teresting notes of fresh pine needle and lime rind throughout. Clean, crisp and effervescent, it finish-es dry and with a slight floral edge. abv: 5.4% Price: $8/375 ml

88 Pinkus Certified Organic Hefe-Weizen (He-feweizen; Pinkus Müller Brewery, Germany).

A classic German hefe, this pours a hazy light-gold color, with an immediate thick head that subsides fast but leaves decent lacing behind. The nose is light and subtle, with soft aromas of clean wheat, grass, green banana and lemon pith. The palate of-fers a bit more intensity, as flavors of tart lemon custard, orange, pepper, raw bread dough and sweet malt fill the medium-weight mouth. It’s smooth and well balanced, with a slightly rich and creamy tex-ture but a crisp, clean finish. Merchant du Vin. abv: 5.1% Price: $3/500 ml

87 Gjulia Est Bianca (Hefeweizen; Birrificio Gju-lia, Italy). This is an interesting, new selec-

tion from winemakers Marco and Massimo Zor-zettig of La Tunella in Friuli, made from wheat and barley grown on their farmlands and water from the well of Monte Mia. A rich gold color, this leads with scents of fresh wheat, underripe banana, tart orange and subtle sweet spice. Those notes carry through to the medium-weight mouth, with high carbon-ation that lifts the slightly slick texture. Hints of green peppercorn and lemongrass unfold on the fin-ish. Alturis, USA. abv: 6% Price: $10/330 ml

87 Ommegang Witte Wheat Ale (Witbier; Brew-ery Ommegang, NY). Here’s a traditional

Belgian-style witbier, brewed with orange peel and coriander. Light yellow-gold in color, with a soft haze, it pours quite frothy, but the head falls fast. The initial aromas are tart and spicy—like lemon pepper and coriander—with a fresh wheat accent. Citrusy flavors continue on to dominate the palate, with waves of juicy orange and lemon that are sup-ported by a core of wheat and medium-sweet malt. The mouthfeel is light- to medium-bodied, with a subtle sweetness yet high carbonation to keep it fresh and clean through the close. abv: 5.2% Price: $9/12 oz 4 pack

With long days at the beach and out-door entertaining ushering in sum-mer, now is the time to stock up on refreshing styles of beer, like light la-

gers, pale ales and easy-drinking IPAs. But perhaps the most iconic style for the season is wheat beer. This light-bodied, yet oh-so-satisfying glass of gold is sure to quench your thirst while simultaneously offering com-plexity and depth of flavor.

Belgian wheat beers (a k a witbier, witte, wit, white) and German weizens (a k a weissbi-er, weiss) are some of the most balanced and refreshing beers. They’re especially welcome during the summer months, when their assertive carbonation, crisp cit-rus notes and delicate spice aromas provide a counter balance to warm weather.

Wheat beers have become increasingly popular in the U.S., and many domestic brew-ers release summer seasonals made in that style. Normally pale to golden in color, with a substantial head, citrus-dominant wheat

flavors and brisk carbonation, American ver-sions often take traditional European styles and add their own twists: a unique spice, an unusual hop, a special brewing technique.

Because many wheat beers are bottle con-ditioned, it’s common to find some sediment at the bottom of the bottle. For a proper pour,

empty half of the beer into a glass and then swirl the re-maining liquid in the bottle before emptying the remains. This way, any of the delicious yeast sediment that might have settled to the bottom of the bottle can be fully enjoyed.

As for the lemon wedge that frequently accompanies these brews, it’s completely a

personal choice: some people find it livens up the intense wheat profile, while other purists believe it overwhelms the beer’s natural fla-vors. Either way, enjoy your favorites while summer lasts—they’re perfect partners for light fare, like salads, grilled chicken or fish.

Prost! —Lauren Buzzeo

Wheat beers to whet your palate

Belgian wheat beers and German weizens are some

of the most balanced and

refreshing beers.

BEER