wine enthusiast - may 2014

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THE

NAPAISSUE

WHITE WINES

OFF-THE-GRID WINERIES

+THE BEST PLACES TO EAT, DRINK AND STAY IN THE VALLEY

650+ WINES REVIEWED THE NEW RAW BAR WINES GREAT SEAFOOD PAIRINGS 9FARMERS MARKET COCKTAIL RECIPES

MAY 2014THE WORLD IN YOUR GLASS

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Winemag.com

$5.99 US & CANADA

WHITE WINES

OFF-THE-GRID WINERIES

THE BEST PLACES TO EAT, DRINK AND STAY IN THE VALLEY

WINES REVIEWED

THE NEW RAW BAR WINES GREAT SEAFOOD PAIRINGS

FARMERS MARKETCOCKTAIL RECIPES

MAY 2014THE WORLD IN YOUR GLASS

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THE WORLD IN YOUR GLASS

Please enjoy our wines responsibly. 2014 Black Stallion Estate Winery, Napa, CA 94558, ALC. 14.5% BY VOL.

92 P O I N T S

EDITORS CHOICE

MAY ISSUE 2014

Finding a new favorite wine has never been more exciting.

BevMo.com

With over 150 stores staffed with friendly beverage experts, BevMo! is ready to help you nd your new favorite wine,

beer or spirit. So no matter which beverage youre looking for or whatever occasion youre planning Just Add BevMo!

2 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MAY 2014

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FEATURES42 NAPA OFF THE GRID BY VIRGINIE BOONE Discover the hidden gems tucked away in the valley.

50 NAPAS UNSUNG HEROESBY STEVE HEIMOFF

Though often overshadowed by the regions big reds, Napa Valleys top white wines shouldnt be overlooked.

56 MAKING SENSE OF MONTALCINOBY KERIN OKEEFEUnderstanding the complex

subregions of Montalcino.

62 RETHINKING WINES AT THE RAW BARBY MIKE DESIMONE & JEFF JENSSEN

Your guide on what to drink the next time you dig into your seafood smrgsbord.

COVER PHOTO: MEG BAGGOTT


DEPARTMENTSOUT & ABOUT12 Baja Meets NYC

THE CRUSH15 Farmers Market Cocktail Club18 Wine IQ: Leftover Wine Dilemma20 A Label Gets Graffitied22 Q&A: Scribes Andrew Mariani24 Perfect Spring Pairings26 Entertaining: Vacation Buys28 Dining Trend: Artisanal Flour30 Recipe of the Month32 Cocktail of the Month34 Destination: Where Bartenders Drink in New York City

LAST DROP120 My Favorite Winemaker

COLUMNSEDITORS LETTER8 Napa Mountain High

BY ADAM STRUM

VIEWPOINT34 Drinking in Napa

BY JOE CZERWINSKI

BUYING GUIDE

22

32

70 Tuscany88 Austria94 Bordeaux98 Spain100 Argentina104 California111 Washington

115 Idaho116 New York118 Spirits119 Beer

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Inglenook.com

VOLUME 27, NUMBER 4

PUBLISHER & EDITOR Adam M. StrumVICE PRESIDENT OF PUBLISHING WINE ENTHUSIAST MEDIA Jay Spaleta

EDITORIALEXECUTIVE EDITOR Susan Kostrzewa

MANAGING EDITOR Joe CzerwinskiSENIOR EDITOR Mike Dawson

WEB EDITOR/PRODUCER Marina VatajASSISTANT EDITOR Joseph Hernandez

EUROPEAN EDITOR Roger VossITALIAN EDITOR Kerin OKeefe

CONTRIBUTING EDITORS, WINE Michael Schachner, Paul Gregutt, Virginie Boone, Jim Gordon, Matt Kettmann, Sean Sullivan, Anna Lee C. Iijima, Anne Krebiehl

CONTRIBUTING EDITOR, FOOD Alexis KormanCONTRIBUTING EDITORS, LIFESTYLE & ENTERTAINING Mike DeSimone and Jeff Jenssen

SPIRITS EDITOR Kara Newman

CREATIVECREATIVE DIRECTOR Marco Turelli

ART DIRECTOR Julia LeaDIRECTOR OF PHOTOGRAPHY Megan Baggott

DIRECTOR OF PRINT PRODUCTION Barbara Gianisis

TASTINGTASTING DIRECTOR Lauren Buzzeo

ASSISTANT TASTING DIRECTOR Molly SowersTASTING COORDINATOR Alexander Peartree

ASSISTANT TASTING COORDINATOR Raven Blake

EDITORIAL OFFICES 333 North Bedford Road, Mt. Kisco, NY 10549TEL: 914.345.9463 FAX: 914.218.9186 [email protected]

CALIFORNIA Steve Heimoff [email protected] Boone [email protected]

EUROPE Roger Voss TEL/FAX: +33 562 09 50 76 [email protected] Kerin OKeefe TEL: +41 91 930.0080 [email protected]

SOUTH AMERICA & SPAIN Michael Schachner [email protected] PACIFIC NORTHWEST Paul Gregutt [email protected]

Sean Sullivan [email protected]

ADVERTISING & MARKETINGVP PUBLISHING Jay Spaleta 333 North Bedford Road, Mt. Kisco, NY TEL: 914.218.9262 FAX: 866.887.0943

[email protected] U.S. Denise Valenza TEL: 800.315.4397 [email protected] U.S. Allison Langhoff TEL: 800.319.6920 [email protected]

ACCOUNT MANAGERS Jennifer Gandol [email protected]; Debora Stein [email protected]

ADVERTISING DIRECTOR Christine Bires [email protected] & EVENTS MANAGER Jen Cortellini [email protected]

ADVERTISING SERVICES COORDINATOR Katrina Sharkis [email protected] OF COMMUNICATIONS Jacqueline Strum [email protected]

ART DIRECTOR OF EVENTS Eileen Curran [email protected] COORDINATOR Carlie Tynan [email protected]

CIRCULATION PROCIRC 3191 Coral Way, Suite 510, Miami, FL

CIRCULATION DIRECTOR Jim Motrinec [email protected] ASSISTANT Susi Chapman [email protected]

RETAILERS To carry Wine Enthusiast Magazine, call 800.381.1288 ext. 6048

SUBSCRIPTIONSSUBSCRIPTION INQUIRIES 800.829.5901 (International: 386.447.2397) [email protected]

BACK ISSUES AND ADDITIONAL COPIES Katrina Sharkis [email protected] Claudia Stachowiak [email protected]

WINE ENTHUSIAST COMPANIES CHAIRMAN Adam M. Strum

CHIEF EXECUTIVE OFFICER Sybil StrumPRESIDENT Hank Rosen

CHIEF FINANCIAL OFFICER Heidi MooreVICE PRESIDENT MARKETING Glenn Edelman

DIRECTOR OF MARKETING Erika Strum

Wine Enthusiast (ISSN 1078.3318) is published monthly with one special issue, a total of 13 times per year. Subscriptions are $34.95 (International: Canada $59.95; Foreign $89.95). 2014 Wine News, Inc. 333 North Bedford Road, Mount Kisco, NY 10549. Periodical postage

paid at Mount Kisco, NY and additional mailing offi ces. Manufactured and printed in the USA. Reprints: You must obtain permission to reproduce any material. Postmaster: Please send address changes to Wine Enthusiast, P.O. Box 420234, Palm Coast, FL 32142.0234.


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editorsletter

NAPA MOUNTAIN HIGHHead to the hills to discover some of this famous regions best bottles.

Finding the road less traveled is a passion of mine, and in my personal and professional travels, I seek out experiences that are fresh and surprising.

Thats not to say I always travel to unknown destinations. There are discoveries to be made in tried-and-true places, too.

Napa, an obvious draw for me, is a perfect example. While I love iconic Napa experiences like tasting along the Silverado Trail, lunching on the patio at Auberge du Soleil, and hot-air ballooning over the vineyards, heading off the path and up the mountain roads of Napa is how I get my off -the-grid fi x.

Whether you climb to the heights of Mount Veeder or venture up roads in the Howell Mountain, Diamond Mountain, Spring Mountain or Coombsville AVAs, youll find amazing tasting rooms and gems packed into nooks and crannies youve likely never explored.

CADE, Lakoya, Constant, Kuleto Estatethese are just a few of the incredible producers off ering the kind of intense fruit for which the mountains of Napa have become known.

Rediscovering Napa is the focus of two features in this months issue. On page

42, Contributing Editor Virginie Boone reveals the best experience-driven places in which to taste, sup and sleep throughout the valley. Steve Heimoff s article on page 50 outlines why Napa should be just as famed for its eclectic whites as it is for its robust reds.

Similarly, our wine-pairing guide to that warm-weather staple, the raw bar, off ers unique approaches to the fresh seafood that so defi nes the season. Check out the mouthwatering combinations chosen by Lifestyle and Entertaining Editors Mike DeSimone and Jeff Jenssen on page 62.

Also in this issue, Italian Editor Kerin OKeefe tackles the hot debate over subzones in Montalcino, home to Italys famed Brunello (page 56). Does understanding subzones help you choose a better bottle? OKeefe talks to producers on both sides of the fence about why (or why not) knowing the GPS coordinates of the vineyard is vital.

Cheers!

Y O U L L F I N D A M A Z I N G TA S T I N G R O O M S

A N D G E M S PA C K E D I N T O N O O K S A N D C R A N N I E S Y O U V E

L I K E LY N E V E R E X P L O R E D . ADAM STRUM

EDITOR & PUBLISHER

COMING NEXT MONTH

COMPLETE GUIDE TO CHILIThese wine-friendly recipes will change the way you see this perennial favorite. Plus, the right way to make and serve it.

CHAMPAGNE FOR ALLSummers celebratory occasions call for the best bubbly you can afford. Get our picks in each price tier.

THE MUSIC ISSUEMany popular musicians are seriously into wine. Learn all about them and their vinous obsessions.


In honor of our feature about Napas top white wines (page 50), @WineEnthusiast tweeted at our

editors: What Napa whites did you enjoy while on your last trip to

California?

CLICK. DISCOVER. CONNECT.


winemag.com

REWINED LEFTOVER WINE RECIPESWaste not! If youve popped one too many bottles at your last bash and youre confronted with leftover wine

thats gone flatweve got just the recipes for you. We tapped top chefs and beverage pros for tips on how to put that precious grape juice to good use. winemag.com/leftoverwine

TACOS THAT TANTALIZE

Tacos are the ultimate Cinco de Mayo food. In celebration of the upcoming Mexican fiesta, we asked our Instagram followers to post a photo of their go-to #TacoPairings. Here are some of our favorite mouthwatering snapshots.

I always love Spottswoode SB @vboone

VIRGINIE BOONE,

CONTRIBUTING EDITOR, CALIFORNIA

Truchard 2012 Roussanne @suskostrzewaSUSAN KOSTRZEWA,

EXECUTIVE EDITOR

One of my favorite #PNV14 lots was a barrel-fermented SB from

@lailvineyards@JoeCz

JOE CZERWINSKI,

MANAGING EDITOR

HASHTAGWEdrink

Spottswoode

The onions in this decadent jam, created by chef Alex Guarnaschelli, are caramelized in red wine, then sauted with a dash of honey and vinegar.

@hi_spots @mattiej @simonshinyo

out&about

BAJA MEETS NYC OPENING PARTY, AT HOTEL AMERICANO

To celebrate the exciting wines coming out of Mexico, Wine Enthusiast and

The Latin Kitchen hosted winemakers from Valle de Guadalupe for a three-

day series. The events included tastings, dinners and parties and

helped further expose this up-and-coming New World region to New York City and the world.

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2014 J. Lohr Vineyards & Wines, San Jose, CA

California vintner Jerry Lohr and the

extended J. Lohr family invite you to celebrate

the acclaimed tastes of Monterey and Paso Robles,

captured from the vineyard to your table,

in every glass of J. Lohr Estates wine.

Wines made passionately for your table.

ourcrushTHIS MONTH

THE FARMERS MARKET COCKTAIL CLUB

Whether on your plate or in your punch bowl, nothing can top the avors of freshly plucked produce. So when picking over the colorful bounty at your weekend greenmarket, dont just think midweek mealsconsider what may mix well with a 12-year-old whiskey, or what to infuse in vodka or gin. Weve tapped some of the best minds in mixology to help inspire you to think drink when at the stands. Welcome to the Farmers Market Cocktail Club.

WINEMAG.COM | 15

Here are nine delicious, easy-to-make greenmarket cocktail recipes.


TIME TO DRINK YOUR VEGETABLES

LAVENDER The Lavender (HILLTOP KITCHEN, TACOMA, WA)

1 sprig lavender oz simple syrup 1 oz vodka oz lemon juice, fresh oz coconut cream

Muddle lavender and syrup, then shake everything with ice. Strain, garnish with lemon.

RADISH Miso Mule (BAR CONGRESS, AUSTIN, TX)

1 oz Yamazaki Whisky 1 red radish, cut into

chunks 1 tsp light miso paste oz honey syrup 3 oz San Pellegrino

Limonata soda

For syrup, combine equal parts honey and hot water, let cool. For the drink, shake all but the soda, strain over fresh ice. Top with soda and radish.

CUCUMBERS Queens Cup (ROUGE TOMATE, NEW YORK CITY)

Pinch of mint 2 oz Pimms 1 oz cucumber pure 1 oz lemonade oz lemon juice 2 oz soda water

Muddle all but the soda, shake with ice, and strain into glass with fresh ice. Top with soda, cucumber slice and mint sprig

LETTUCE Gordons Healthy Lunch (FORAGERS CITY TABLE, NEW YORK CITY)

2 oz Dorothy Parker Gin oz mix of arugula and

Boston lettuce oz lime juice oz simple syrup

Juice lettuce. Shake everything with ice. Strain over fresh ice.

WINEMAG.COM | 17

CELERY Celery Bubbly Cocktail (FORK RESTAURANT, PHILADELPHIA)

oz Cynar oz Domaine de Canton

ginger liqueur oz white verjus 1 oz celery water 3 oz Brut sparkling wine

Pure a celery stalk and strain through cheesecloth. Stir everything with ice. Garnish with celery frond.

PEAS Awww Snap (ROAST, DETROIT)

1 oz sugar snap pea-infused gin

oz lemon juice, fresh oz simple syrup oz Dolin Blanc Vermouth 2 dashes celery bitters

For the infused gin, combine 1 cup of sugar snap peas and 3 cups of gin. Refrigerate for two days and strain. For the drink, shake everything with ice. Strain over fresh ice.

CILANTRO Mango En Fuego Paloma (BACKSTREET CAF, HOUSTON)

1 oz mezcal oz lime juice Pinch of chile powder 1 tsp cilantro, roughly

chopped 6 oz mango soda

Stir everything but the soda in a collins glass. Add soda and ice. Pour into a shaker then back into the glass. Garnish with lime.

BEETS Action Bronson (POURING RIBBONS, NEW YORK CITY)

1 oz Irish Whiskey oz Plum Brandy oz beet juice oz lime juice oz grapefruit juice oz simple syrup

Shake everything with ice. Pour over fresh ice. Garnish with orange peel.

TOMATO & ROSEMARY Breakfast for Dinner (THE BOILER ROOM, CHICAGO)

2 oz tomato water 1 sprig rosemary 1 oz aquavit

For the tomato water, chop tomatoes and press through cheesecloth. For the drink, muddle everything, shake with ice, strain. Top with a cucumber slice and pinch of smoked salt.

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SOLVING THE LEFTOVER WINE DILEMMATo help you with this confounding problem, we polled our editors and other wine pros on the best ways to preserve the last few glasses of your open bottle.

thecrushWINE IQ

RECORK IT RIGHTThe fi rst rule of preserving your wine is to replace the cork correctly. While the clean side may seem easier to fi t in the bottle, resist. The stained side has already been exposed to the wine, and it tasted fi ne. That clean side may not be so clean, and it can taint what youre planning to drink in a day or two.

USE HALF BOTTLESAir fl attens your wine, lessening fl avors and aromas. To mini-mize air exposure, use a funnel to pour the remaining vino into a screw-cap half bottle. Even if theres a little air at the top, its far less than in a regular bottle.

REFRIGERATE ITIts amazing how oft en people will keep left over wine on the counter aft er theyve recorked it. You wouldnt do that with food, so dont with wine. The cool temp cant stop exposed wine from breaking down, but it can slow the process signif-icantly.

DONT OPEN IT If popping high-end bottles is what you call Wednesday (or youre itching to taste those gems in your cellar), it may be time for a Coravin. This device, which looks much like a Rab-bit opener, pierces the cork with a needle and tops the bottle with argon gas. Pour what you want, remove the needle and the cork will seal naturally. Many restaurants use it to sell top-shelf wines by the glass. $299, wineenthusiast.com

FINISH ITLook, there are roughly fi ve glasses of wine in a regular 750-ml bottle. If you and yours have two glasses each and split that last glassall while eating a decent-sized dinnerits not bad. In fact, according to recent studies, 13 glasses a day may improve your heart health. Mike Dawson


DRINK ITALIAN

The California Way.

www.ferrari-carano.com

Ferrari-Carano Vineyards & Winery

Healdsburg, CA 800.831.0381

thecrushWINE TREND


GRAPE EXPECTATIONS

The new generation of young winemakers and drinkers

are bent on making the wine world not only more accessible and more fun,

but actually cooland this bottle featuring the work

of legendary graffiti artist Cope2 is a colorful sign

of this welcome shift. In collaboration with 67Wine

store in New York City, Bronx-born Cope2 created

a work for this limited bottling of Bodegas Luzns

2009 La Caldera, a blend of Tempranillo, Cabernet

Sauvignon and Monastrell from Jumilla in Spain.

Whether you like the juice or not, the label reminds us

were trending toward a less stuffy era in wine.

thecrushQ+ A

SCRIBE WINERYS ANDREW MARIANI

Youve said before how some producers share wine is oft en out of context with how a lot of people want to experience it. In my opinion, the best way to experience wine is sitting down with somebody and eating, drinking and talking. Thats why wine is so amazingit brings people to the table, and is one of the few ways people relate to the natural world. Man, that sounds super cheese ball, but its the truth, and really what its all about. Were actually just doing what wed want if we walked up to a winery. And that means sitting and connecting and having fun with people at a simple table under an oak tree, with a few bottles of wine, a little plate of food and some music. I mean, were so lucky to live and work on this amazing farm. We just try to have a good time, make good decisions and make quality stuff . I think if youre doing that, people are going to want to be a part of it.

Your relaxed hillside tastings are so popular. What made you decide to buck the tasting room trend? We actually werent reactionary at all. We were inspired by those unique experiences weve had on more rustic wineries in California and Europe. You walk up to these little wineries, hang with the winemaker, nothing formal, and really feel connected to the place. Coming from a California farming background, we thought maybe we can just strip all the BS away, and not have anything fancy

and just be a farm and be honest and authentic about what were doing here and share that. The reality of farmingthe work, the landis what my brother and I always thought was so cool, so we stay true to that.

Yeah, and farms usually dont have grand tasting rooms. Its cool if you want to go to a tasting room barI love going to bars. Its just not for us here. Some do it so amazingly well, but yeah in general we think its hard to appreciate wines real story in that kind of setting. If you take away the faux chateau, the fancy brochure and big tasting rooms and whatever romance thats trying to sell, youre left with the real, honest story: How this wine came to be. For me, and a lot of folks, thats the real romance of wine.

Have people tried to bite your style or recreate what you guys are doing? We defi nitely have people from other, larger wineries come here and ask questions, which we love. First, its such a big compliment because were hardly the fi rst winery trying to stay true to being a farm fi rst. Second, if more and more California wineries are off ering cool, unique experiences, we think its great. Theres a good conversation happening right now in California about winemaking style and how wine is shared with people. I think how its shared is shift ing, and we feel lucky and so honored to even be a part of that conversation. Mike Dawson


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Since opening in 2009, the owners and vintners Andrew and Adam Marianiand their stylish, photo-ready wine feastshave been featured in GQ, Paper and countless design magazines and blogs. But

whats caught the eye of California producers isnt the buzz, its that Scribe is part of a growing revolution of young winemakers who are sharing their wine in intimate settings (no giant tasting rooms, please) and

pulling off one of the hardest feats in wine: Creating leagues of loyal fans.

THE BROTHERS SCRIBE Andrew, left , with his brother, and co-vintner Adam.

thecrushTHE WINE LIFE


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SPRING VINOur editors handpicked the perfect wines to help you mark these glorious rites of the season.

PLANTING YOUR GARDEN Donkey & Goat 2012 Chardonnay (Anderson Valley), $35

Unearth this refreshingly light Chardonnaywith its crisp layers of green apple and lemon, and intriguing hints of Asian spices which pairs well with the rich scent of overturned soil. So, be sure to sip it while still in your muddy gear, or better yet, downwind from

your garden.

THAT FIRST BIG TROUT OF THE YEAR

Dog Point 2010 Chardonnay (Marlborough), $38The spring runoff made wading uncomfortably cold,

but you stuck it out, and fooled that sh with a No. 12 stonefly emerger. Celebrate by dusting the fillets in cornmeal, then saut and nish with pat of brown butter. This wine echoes the nuttiness and the acid balances

the butter.

OPENING YOUR SUMMER HOUSEPieropan 2011 La Rocca (Soave Classico), $30

Intense but re ned, this Soave boasts layers of tropical-fruit avors, alongside almond and light spice. These fruit avors and the underlying mineral notes will harmonize well as the dust scent and stale air are at last swept away by the fresh-air breezes from your newly-open windows.

FIRST ALFRESCO BRUNCHRobert Weil 2012 Tradition Riesling (Rheingau), $20

There may be no better match for sunrays and spring's awakening than an ultra-clean-cut, citrus-scented Rheingau Riesling. Every sip refreshes, and with its rounded fruitiness this number plays well with all your brunch staples. Bonus: It's low in alcohol, so a second

bottle may be in order.

MEMORIAL DAY COOKOUTKoyle 2009 Royale Syrah (Colchagua Valley), $26

Sweet and spicy red-fruit aromas and leather come to play in this big-boned, ripe Syrah. Flavors of black fruits, toast, coconut and chocolate announceplenty of oak, while the rich, persistent nish is just brightenough to cut through that prized piece of charred Angus.

C A M PA I G N F I N A N C E D

A S P E R T H E

C O U N C I L R E G U L AT I O N

( E C ) N O . 1 2 3 4 / 0 7

This is not

just a Prosecco.

Its Mionetto.

ENDLESS VACATIONYour humblebrag shots on Instagram dont tell the whole story. To truly share your getaway glow with friends, bring home a curated slice of hosting heaven. Skip the duty-free shop and

scout out more intimate entertaining-friendly conversation pieces like these.

thecrushENTERTAINING

FRANCE > French LinensThose bright blue and sun ower yellow tablecloths of Provence will always be classic, but if your tastes are more modern, seek out Ct Bastide, a purveyor of high-end home goods. With stores in Paris and Aix-en-Provence, it boasts French linens in soft breezy colors that will remind you of days lounging on the beach looking out on the Mediterranean, or in the shade of an olive tree soaking in the lavender elds.

MEXICO > MolcajeteCarved from a single piece of volcanic rock, a molcajeteoriginally used by the Aztecs to grind cornis an indispensible tool for mashing guacamole. The rough surface releases the

avors of tomato, onion, cilantro and chilies before you add the avocado. Preparing tableside is a fun way to showcase your culinary skills. Serve them alongside zesty white wine from producers like Casa de Piedra, Paralelo or Monte Xanic

from Mexicos Valle de Guadalupe in Baja California.

Mike DeSimone & Jeff Jenssen

SPAIN > PimentnSmall tins of pimentn, or paprika, will add Iberian air to your next dinner party. Tins marked dolce are sweet paprika; picante indicates heat. Spanish paprika lends its rich red-orange color and smoky flavors to paella, patatas bravas and sizzling shrimp with garlic and olive oil. The small, brightly colored cans are also great keepsakes. Look for the tins from Santo Domingo or El Colorin.

TURKEY > Tea TraysIn the Grand Bazaar and restaurants of Istanbul, waiters bearing long-handled brass tea trays whizz by, never spilling a single drop. Great for bringing drinks to the yard or terrace, these hardy trays wont tip even as you navigate stairs. Theyre also beautiful enough to hang on the wall or use as a table centerpiece.

THE CARIBBEAN > Scotch Bonnet Pepper SauceEach island has its own special hot sauce, but look for those made with Scotch bonnets, among the hottest peppers on the planet. Stir some into your jerk rub and chutney for an island-style barbecue, or add a dash or two into your bloody mary and treat your friends to tropical brunch. A few drops work well with oysters, and with a little mayo, it's great for topping crab cakes or pork sliders.


Clos Du Vals estate-grown Stags Leap District

Cabernet Sauvignon brilliantly captures our hallmark

finesse, elegance, and complexity. It represents

over 40 years of distinctive, terroir-driven

winemaking in a single bottle.

ELEGANCE BRILLIANTLY

CAPTURED.

2014 Clos Du Val, Napa, California


The next ingredient to get the artisanal treatment in cutting-edge kitchens: baking our. Whether this makes your mouth water or your eyes roll, heres your proverbial Cliffs Notes on this new-age millers tale.

FLOUR POWER

When Jared Van Camp, the owner and executive chef of Nellcte Chicago, walked away from the 2009 Slow Food conference in Turin, Italy, he had an

ambitious goal: to make the most authentic pizza stateside. To do that, he knew store-bought flour wouldnt cut it. I was intrigued by the fact that in Italy, the flour used in restaurants was local to them, he says. Pizzerias in America were using that same flour, but the amount of miles and the carbon footprint inherent in that process didnt make sense to me. He searched locally, but came up short.

Searching for SuperfineFinely ground double-zero fl our is the key to proper pizza, so Van Camp had a North Carolina company build a custom fl our mill with a pneumatic sift er that could yield those superfine results. In his restaurants basement, Van Camp uses this stone contraption daily to transform heritage wheat sourced from regional farmers into fresh batches of high-quality fl our. In addition to his pizza crust, the fl our also makes its way into house-baked baguettes, brioche and focaccia, and all the pastas.

Grain SolosCooking requires consistency, one of the key benefi ts when you reach for a 5-pound sack of Gold Medal. Yet hand-milling (aft er a little practice) provides the same benefi t, but with fl avors that are fresh, more nuanced and truly original. Bob Klein, owner of Oliveto, in Oakland, feels so strongly about the cooking benefi ts of small-batch fl our that he formed his own small milling collective, called Community Grains, in 2007. The mill churns out whole-grain pastas and stone-milled fl our for his and a handful of other restaurants. There is so little information about wheat out there: how was it farmed, who milled it, what was the temperature of the wheel, Klein

says. With the fl our you buy in the supermarket, or from a distributor, all you know is that the sack will behave like the last one.

The Terroir of WheatFlour milling is also gaining traction for its connection to the past, says Cathy Whims, chef/owner of Nostrana in Portland, Oregon. Getting closer to the source ties into the idea of slow food and fi nding a real-life connection to our history, she says. I was in Calabria recently, and was reminded that we always consider and grasp the idea of wine terroir, but not food terroir, which is what every family instills up there. They know: where it grows is hugely important to how it will taste

Grist GripesAt Taquitoria, a gourmet taquito shrine on New Yorks Lower East Side, partner Brad Holtzman takes a more cynical view of these artisanal inclinations, comparing them to Hollywoods oversaturated fi lm industry. Its rare to see something on the big screen that is essentially a new concept, he says. Thats why filmmakers are happy to take a successful fi lm, and remake it with their spin. Farm-to-table restaurants , burger joints and modernist concepts have been opening and closing for decades. Still, he admits these locavore leanings wont disappear anytime soon. Like movie studios, restaurateurs are taking a successful product like fl our and are improving itor at least trying to, Holtzman says. And if the market supports it, I guess dont knock the hustle. Alia Akkam

W E A LW AY S C O N S I D E R W I N E S

T E R R O I R , B U T N E V E R T H E T E R R O I R

O F F O O D .

IN HOUSERESTAURANTS WHERE

NEXT-LEVEL ARTISANAL INGREDIENTS ARE BEING BORN

+ NOMA, COPENHAGEN The Ingredient: Spices made from woodruff and seaweed

+ GREY PLUME, OMAHAThe Ingredient: Buttermilk cheese

+ BLUE BOTTLE COFFEE CO., SAN FRANCISCO

The Ingredient: Sea salt made from San Francisco Bay water

thecrushDINING TREND

thecrushRECIPE OF THE MONTH


GREEN SYMPHONY

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Mixed with fennel flowers and mustard greens, this vert-hued fava bean salad from Chef Roberto Ivan from Piccolo Venice in Venice Beach, California, strikes the perfect harmony between sweet, bitter and earthy.

FAVA BEAN SALAD WITH CHAMPAGNE VINAIGRETTE

8 ounces fresh fava beans

1 bunch fennel flowers

1 bunch mustard greens

Pinch of salt and pepper

1 tablespoon Dijon mustard

2 teaspoons wild flower honey

6 tablespoons Champagne vinegar

4 tablespoons olive oil

2 ounces Pecorino cheese, shredded

Clean and shell the fava beans. Place in a pot over high heat and boil for 35 minutes. Drain the beans and place into an ice bath. Allow to cool, then drain. Set aside. Rinse the fennel flowers, then toss together the fava beans, fennel flowers and mustard greens in a large bowl. Season with salt and pepper.

To make the dressing, mix together Dijon mustard, honey and Champagne vinegar. Slowly pour in the olive oil while whisking until well combined. Pour over the salad and toss well. Finish with Pecorino cheese. Serves 2.

Alexis Korman

THE POURPietro Biondi, sommelier at Piccolo

Venice, recommends Ermes Paveses

2011 Blanc de Morgex et de la Salle

from Italys Valle dAosta. The palate is

fruity with a pleasant, fresh finish, says

Biondi. Its excellent for an apritif and

matches well with this salad.

thecrushCOCKTAIL OF THE MONTH


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When we heard Matthew Biancaniello, bartender at Pot Lobby Bar in Los Angeles, was slinging a drink with hops-infused vodka and, um, carrot juice, we rolled our eyes. Then we sipped it. Savory yet subtly sweet, the mix of veggie juice, acidic lime and earthy hops creates a flavor that literally tastes the way a spring vegetable garden smells. Look out bloody mary, theres a new brunch drink on the menu.

THE HOPS COCKTAIL 2 ounces Anchor Distilling

Hophead Hop Vodka

2 ounces fresh carrot juice

ounce fresh lime juice

ounce agave syrup

Pinch of sea salt, for garnish

In a cocktail shaker, combine all the ingredients with ice, except salt. Shake vigorously, and strain into a chilled coupe glass. Garnish with a pinch of sea salt on top.

ABOUT THE BARPart of Roy Chois Pot restaurant inside The Line

Hotel, Pot Lobby Bar is a must-visit for any cock-

tail a cionado. Be prepared to have your palate

challenged well beyond mere carrot juice, with

drinks infused with sea-urchin roe and even a

Soju-kimchi mash-up.

Limited ProductionLimited Production

www.michters.com

MICHTERS DISTILLERY LLC LOUISVILLE, KENTUCKY

The Great American WhiskeyThe Great American Whiskey

thecrushDESTINATION

WineIf you blink, you might easily pass by tiny Ten Bells wine bar. With an ever-rotating chalkboard of wines, ask for what they have off -menu and youll be treated to a pour thats fun and oft en unusual. One of fi ve in the city, Terroir in the East Village is the brainchild of local wine legend Paul Grieco, whose love for Riesling is unmatched in Gotham. Let the super-learned staff be your guide. Rooted in making wine accessible to all, Corkbuzz is part wine bar, part wine school. Come aft er 10 pm for half-price bottles of Champagne and youll likely overhear the citys top sommeliers talking shop and dissecting each sip. While it should be on your list of places to eat, Maialino, in the Gramercy Park Hotel, has a treasure trove of Italian wine at its bar. Check out sommelier Jeff rey Kelloggs occasional by-the-glass verticals.

Cocktails (Manhattan)PDT (Please Dont Tell) has garnered as much attention for its secret phone-booth entrance as for its cocktails. The order: the Bentons Old Fashioned, made with bacon fat. Yes, bacon fat. What was once Milk & Honeythe bar that started the whole neo-speakeasy craze in 2000is now Attaboy, which boasts one of the best drinks in the city: bartender Sam Rosss Scotch-based Penicillin. The Dead Rabbit is the most buzzed-about bar on the planet right now among pro drink slingers. The must-have: Combatant. Even the citys most hardened cocktail nerds cant get bored with The Daily, my alma mater, since the entire menu changes, as the name implies, daily.

To help you navigate beyond the blogs, guidebooks and Yelp, we asked mixology master Naren Youngbeverage director at Empelln, whos also helmed bars at Saxon + Parole, The Dutch and The Dailyto share where he and his brethren like to go when off-duty. Heres his insiders guide to boozing in the Big Apple.

WHERE BARTENDERS GO TO DRINK IN NYC

The Daily

The Dead Rabbit

Dutch Kills Ten Bells

Attaboy


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Cocktails (Brooklyn & Queens)Julie ReinerNYCs reigning mixology mavenforecasted Brooklyns thirst for serious cocktails when she opened Clover Club in Carroll Gardens in 2008. At Sunday brunch, try the bacon sampler and any of her cobblers. Just down the street, Long Island Bar, owned by writer and veteran bartender Toby Cecchini, is a simple, no-nonsense affair with killer Boulevardier cocktails. Some of the freshest oysters in New York are at Maison Premiere, where at happy hour, you can devour bivalves for $1 a pop. The Carondelet cocktail, with a tiny pinch of salt, is the perfect foil. Drink No. 2: any Julep on the menu. Basik, in Williamsburg, is a modest bar catering to locals and barkeeps who enjoy the simple pleasure of a well-made classic, like the negroni. Tip: Theres a hidden courtyard out back. Dutch Kills, in Long Island City (only a 15-minute subway ride from Midtown), is one of the darlings of the bartender world. Its technically in Queens, which scares off the snobs, leaving a crowd of locals and cocktail geeks. Bartenders make their own block ice and ice-pick it for each drink.

Beer, etc.Mothers Ruin has become thebartenders post-shift hang, since its open until 4 am and serves grub until last call. Try the clam juice-

free Micheladas. 7B is one of the last authentic dives in New York. At the horseshoe-shaped bar, you get cheap beer, shots and a surly staff . Grab a P.H.O. Real sandwich from nearby bodega Sunny & Annies and bring it in. Its the only food youll get here. Old Town has been open since 1892, so theyre clearly doing something right. Any visit should include a shot of Old Granddad, a Guinness (one of the purest in the city) and its lauded bacon cheeseburgerin that order. Brave Daddy Os cranked-up-to-11 music and youll be rewarded with a great beer list and one of the best American whiskey menus in town. You wont see them on the menu, but order the cheese-and-jalapeo tater tots.

Old Town

Maison Premiere

7B

7B

MUST-TRYS

7BAttaboy

BasikClover Club

CorkbuzzDaddy O's

Dead RabbitDutch Kills

Long Island BarMaialino

Maison PremiereMother's Ruin

Old TownTen Bells

TerroirThe Daily

WINEMAG.COM | 35

Special PromotionSpeciacial PPrrommootionon

A highly successful wine-maker and international businessman, Grard Bertrand has an athletic build and bearing. Tall, with a mane of unruly hair, a serious demeanor and piercing eyes, he cuts an imposing gure, but ask him about his southern French roots and his natural warmth shines through: I was born and raised here in Languedoc, so the Mediterranean way of life is deep in my soul, it translates into all the wines I make, he responds. The range of wines is as impressive as its creator, spanning varietals, blends, forti ed, sparkling, organic and sul te-free wines from across the vast and varied region of Languedoc-Roussillon.

Grard was given his first taste of grape-harvesting aged 10 by his father Georges at the family estate of Domaine de Villemajou, in Boutenac. Here, surrounded by rocky, sun-baked scrubland dotted with wild rosemary and thyme, father and son shared their passion for wine for over fteen years. The unique taste of aged wines made from hundred-year old Carignan, Syrah and Grenache vines is something I will never forget, muses Grard.

On his fathers death, Grard took over and continued the work of enhancing the quality and expressing the character of the 140 hectares (345 acres) and their ancient Carignan vinesa traditional Mediterranean variety that has found grace once again in the production of top Languedoc wines.

South of

Frances Leading

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GRARD BERTRAND

Special Promotion

A gifted sportsman, in his early adult years Grard played rugby at international professional level, reaching the peak of his career in 1993 as captain of the famous and successful Stade Franais team in Paris. Although his stadium days are over, Grard retains the drive and ambition of a top-level player, and no doubt it is this desire for excellence which continues to guide the Grard Bertrand company he founded in 1992.

Motivated by his visionary understanding of Languedocs potential, over the following decade he purchased selected estates the regions very best wine-making areas: Domaine de Cigalus in Bizanet, Chteau Laville Bertrou in La Livinire, and in 2002, La Clapes Domaine de lHospitalet, where he created a head of ce and an outstanding wine tourism destination that attracts 200,000 visitors from around the world annually.

Recent years have seen the acquisition of Domaine de lAigle (Limoux), Chteau Aigues Vives (Corbires-Boutenac), and Chteau La Sauvageonne in the highly-prized Terrasses du

Larzac area. Along with Villemajou and Domaine de la Soujeole in the Malepre area, these eight estates now comprise the heart of Grard Bertrands winemaking operation, although he is quick to point out that what were doing here is more than running a wine business, its a way of life.

Indeed, it is the love of this laid-back, joyful Mediterranean lifestyle (shared with his wife Ingrid and two teenage children) that motivates this unof cial ambassador of the south of France wines. Were fortunate to live 90 minutes from Pyrenean ski resorts and only ve minutes from

Chateau lHospitalet LHospitalitas

Cigalus

Ingrid, Emma, Grard and Mathias Bertrand

GRARD BERTRAND ESTATES TOP WINES

Special Promotion

golden, sandy beaches, smiles Grard, a keen chef and self-confessed BBQ ace who enjoys preparing fresh, locally-caught sh (sea bass and rock lobster are among his favorites).

WINES THAT REVEAL THEIR TERROIRIf Grard Bertrand wines are crafted to bring out the speci c characteristics of each vineyard area and re ect Languedocs diversity, they also share a common identity: with their balance and elegance, they are an authentic expression of the south of France and speak of the outstanding quality of the sun-kissed soils which gave them birth. These wines aim to meet and exceed the expectations of wine lovers worldwide.

Chardonnay, Syrah, Merlot, Pinot each varietal wine gives a sensitive and true experience of the soil they grow in. The Terroir and Grand Terroir appellation wines, from speci c appellation areas offer complexity and the imprint of terroir, that esoteric combination of vineyard characteristics, soil, climate and environment. The estates and single vineyards wines like Le Viala, La Forge and lHospitalitas are an illustration of Languedocs excellence, and the natural forti ed and sparkling wines complement this exciting range of styles that offers wines to suit every palate and occasion.

I love wines with complexity and minerality, and the ability to age; wines with a message that really speak of their origins, says Grard, whose own creativity was partly inspired by several visits to Domaine de la Romane Conti and tastings with owner Aubert de Villaine: wine has this unique ability to help us understand culture and civilization, he enthuses.

When hes not in the vineyard or working on the blending of his wines, Grard Bertrand travels the world to promote his wines. He spends eight weeks every year in the US. where his wines are

available nationwide. It was during his rst visit to Napa in 1988 that he saw how wine tourism was celebrated US-style,

and on his return to France he vowed to create his own project promoting Languedoc and its wine, gastronomy, culture, music and art: twelve years later, Chteau lHospitalet is the result of that vision.

However, despite a hectic schedule and the demands of running one of the south of Frances most successful wine businesses, this former professional sportsman has never taken his eye off the ball. He remains a highly hands-on winemaker and is personally involved in the blending of each and every wine: Every single bottle bears my name, he con rms, explaining that the winemaking process is adapted each year, at each site, to suit the particular characteristics of the vintage. At every stages in the production process we organize wine-tasting sessions to set the ideal moment for running the wine off from the vats and to get the blend right, with an eye on how the wine is likely to evolve, he elaborates. I taste the wines that are ready on a weekly basis,

and assemble them with my team. Each bottle that leaves our winery is an ambassador for the south of France, so its important that each is imbued with our message, says this passionate perfectionist who demands the highest standards of excellence from his team and himself.

LEADING THE WAY IN LANGUEDOCGrard Bertrand wines have received numerous awards for their excellent and consistent quality, and each year sees its harvest of medals from the major French and international wine competitions. In 2012, the group was awarded European Winery of the Year by Wine Enthusiast magazine, and Grard Bertrand received in London the Best Red Winemaker Trophy at the International Wine Challenge.

RossHappily, in Languedoc we have ideal conditions for growing the Syrah, Grenache, Cinsault with which we make wonderful ross, comments Grard, who is particularly proud of his crystal-clear Gris Blanc (an original blend of Grenache Gris and Noir with a shimmering, ultra pale pink hue), At the end of a balmysummers day, a glass of chilledros is perfect as an apritif,or with oysters and shell sh,sushi or Asian foodits part ofour way of life here. Chteau La Sauvageonnes mineral ros is very disctinctive, craftedfrom Grenache, Cinsault and Syrah.

weeks every year in available n rst visit towine touris

RHaphavegrowCinswonGraprouBlanGrena shhue)sumrosor wsushour La Sis vefromSyra

T en minutes from the ancient Roman city of Narbonne, Chteau lHospitalet is a 82 hectares vineyard surrounded by 1000 hectares of pine woods and rocky scrubland dotted with wild herbs; from its loftier vineyards visitors can enjoy breathtaking views of the azure-blue Mediterranean sea.

Although the origins of the site go back to the 6th century, the hotel, restaurant and tasting room offer the

ultimate in modern daycomfort, ensuring unforget-table memories for those fortunate enough to sojourn here. Chteau lHospitalet showcases the very best of the Mediterranean lifestyle: fresh, local, seasonal ne food paired with carefully-crafted Grard Bertrand wines. With their views across swathes of vines and a Mediterranean garden, the generously-proportioned rooms embody charm and serenity.

Guests can take part in wine workshops and tastings in a friendly, relaxed atmo-sphere, or head off on foot or mountain bike to admire La Clapes protected ora and fauna. In August, Chteau lHospitalet is host to world-famous musicians who perform at its Jazz Festival, attracting an audience of hundreds. Jazz is to music what the soil is to wine: it comes from the soul, he comments.

Kool & The Gang

WINE TOURISM AND CHTEAU LHOSPITALET

Special Promotion

The celebrated CEO remains humble: Making great wine is the result of paying utmost attention to 1001 tiny details, from the vineyard to the glass, he comments, but every year is different, and we have to be ever-vigilant. Naturally were delighted with these accolades, but its important to remain focused on our commitment to elaborate super premium world-class wines. This year we inaugurate a brand new winery. This architectural masterpiece is tted with state-of-the-art equipment. The project was

entrusted to Jean-Frdric Luscheran architect who worked on the Dominus Estate in California and designed in line with eco-construction principles. Everything about this winery resembles us: its a perfect blend of tradition and modernity, says Grard Bertrand.

No doubt that with 26 years of experience under his belt, this talented, driven yet spiritual player will continue to go from strength to strength. Moreover, a new project is announced to be revealed in June.

ENVIRONMENT & BIODYNAMICSGrard Bertrand has made a lasting commitment to the environment. Promoting biodiversity is key: 25 different grape varieties are grown across the Grard Bertrand estates, along with a variety of trees such as olive and truf e oak. A sustainable development policy is in place, and sustainable, organic or biodynamic viticulture is practiced across all the Grard Bertrand estates, with three (Domaine de Cigalus, Chteau La Sauvageonne and Chteau lHospitalet) biodynamic-certi ed or in conversion.

Ultimately, we want to farm all our estates according to biodynamic principles, says Grard, whose interest in this agricultural method was kindled by a meeting with a homeopathic doctor, the subsequent reading of biodynamics founder Rudolf Steiners text book and a 10-year series of experiments in the vineyard resulting in wines that have more freshness, minerality and vibrancy, according to their creator. With Domaine de Cigalus, Grard Bertrand took quality to the extreme, setting the 185-acre estate on the ambitious road of biodynamics (Demeter certi cation was granted in 2010), and he has never looked back.

Protecting the environment, restoring balance and harmony to our ecosystems, fostering excellence in wine-growing techniques and thinking about the next generation are key issues for us, says Grard; as a father, he knows that the measures he puts in place today are part of his familys future well-being.

GRARD BERTRANDYour wines are from the Languedoc regions most exciting wine-growing areas; how did this come about?

The diversity of Languedocs soils and climate types never ceases to amaze me, and the desire to showcase them is something I inherited from my father Georges. I remember when I was a boy, walking with him in the Corbires surrounded by old Cathares Castles and vestiges of the Roman Civilization. His af nity for this land and its heritage were passed on to me. From there, Ive never stopped looking at my region as a reserve of treasures. Can you describe these treasure areas and what makes them so special?

Each area is peculiar! Can you imagine a region where forti ed wines were invented in Roussillon and sparkling wines created by monks in Saint Hilaire Abbaye in 1531?

Limoux vineyard is one of the highest in the Languedoc: the epitome of Chardonnay and Pinot

while In Pic Saint Loup the nesse of Syrah liaises with complexity of Grenache.

In the huge limestone block of la Clape, winesare on the edge.

Picpoul de Pinet is the name of an ancient Mediterranean varietal that gives its name to the appellation and to the village.

In Chteau La Sauvageonne, Terrasses du Larzac, we bene t from the unlikely alliancebetween schist and volcanic soils.

In Les Aspres, vineyards are located between the sea and the mountains and confer a surprising Grenache, Syrah and Mourvdre blend.

In Tautavel were found 450,000 year old archaeological remains of Homo erectus, so to say it is steeped in history is an understatement.

Minervois is a kingdom for Syrah that bene ts from the the freshness of the mountains.

This is all the variety of Languedoc Roussillon I want to reveal in my wines.

My oenothque is now covering 3 centuries of History. Our oldest, Legend Vintage Rivesaltes is a 1875 vintage! Treasures need to be collected and kept for next generations.

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TALKING TERROIR WITH

BUILDING SOUTH OF FRANCES WINES HISTORY

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DRINKING IN NAPAPlaces to go when you need something different.

t the 2014 edition of Premiere Napa Valley, the regions top trade event, more than 90 percent of the auction lots were big, hearty red wines. Of the 225 wines offered, only seven were whiteincluding two sparklersand seven

wwere Pinot Noir.That adds up to a lot of tannin and, generally speaking, a fair bit off

aalcohol as well.To be fair, most visits to Napa arent quite that Cabernet-

ccentric. Many wineries at least pour a Sauvignon Blanc or aa Chardonnay (sometimes both), which can help refresh ppalates before diving into a lineup of red wines.

Still, the focus of almost any tasting trip to Napa will be tthe regions big reds, generally Cabernet Sauvignon. And aft eraa day of palate-staining tasting, you might be in the mood forssomething diff erent come evening.

Thats certainly how I felt during a recent visit.Thankfully, the regions restaurateurs seem to have

ddiscovered the same thing. While most wine lists lean heavily oon Napa off erings, many reach over the county line for theirwwhite wine off erings. Some restaurants do however feature zzesty local whites, like Sinskeys Abraxas, a Carneros-grownbblend of Riesling, Pinot Gris, Pinot Blanc and Gewrztraminer.

Alternatively, visitors can do like the local winemakers do and rrefresh their palates with beer.

Trumer Pils, originally from Austria but now made 40 minutesaaway in Berkeley, is the lightest, crispest local brew that visitors arellikely to encounter.

Even closer is Napa Smith Brewery, located across from the Napa aairport. Its taproom is a bit out of the way if youre in the heart of thevvalley, but the beers are available at numerous locations. Stop intoCCantina on the main drag in St. Helena when you need the comfort of f aa Napa Smith Amber Ale served in a zero-pretension zone.

Not a beer drinker?Aim your cocktail sights high at Goose & Gander (the former Martini

HHouse), also in St. Helena. Although star mixologist and 2013 WineEEnthusiast 40 Under 40 honoree Scott Beattie has joined Meadowood,tthe mixed-drinks program he started lives on.

Exotic ingredients like Chinese fi ve-spice powder and star anisemmingle easily with fresh produce and Bay Area spirits from Hangar 1,SSt. George and Distillery No. 209, spun together in ingenious, palate-rrousing combinations.

At almost every turn, Napas restaurants and bars off er excitingaalternatives to the regions wines, giving visitors even more reasons toddrink in the valley.

MORE THAN CABERNETROBERT SINSKEY

VINEYARDS$25 tasting includes four

wines and small bites from the kitchen.

NAPA SMITH BREWERY

Tours at 4 pm daily. Ten beers on tap.

GOOSE & GANDERExtensive, inventive

cocktail list. Full menu.

Managing Editor Joe Czerwinski has been

visiting Napa since 1990, witnessing a world of change in the regions

culinary scene over the past 25 years.

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Milliken Creek Inn & Spa

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An undiscovered world awaits wine lovers who venture off the valleys beaten path.B Y V I R G I N I E B O O N E P H O T O S B Y K AT I E N E W B U R N

WINEMAG.COM | 43

Cain Vineyard & Winery

First-time travelers to Napa Valley oft en appreciate the apparent simplicity of its infrastructure. Large, well-signed wineries line the backbone of Route 29, making

each visit as easy as pulling into a driveway.But for seasoned visitors, as well as those

seeking more authentic experiences closer to Napas rural roots, there are plenty of ways to get off the main drag.

For one, the valley is home to as many mountains as pockets of valley oor. Those mountains, and their twisting side roads, are littered with vinous gold.

At these small-scale wineries, a handful of people make the magic happen, but a polite phone call will oft en peel one of them away from their work. Its a chance to taste through their wines and discover their individual dreams and terroirs.

These experiences are worth savoring for their intimacy, proximity to one-of-a-kind vineyards and rare wine nds.

The same applies to restaurants and inns, equally hidden away, which offer a chance to discover where the localsor regulars, anywayhang out.

So turn on the GPS and turn off the highway. Heres your guide to the roads less traveled.


Arkenstone Vineyards Up the twistingly sloped, conifer-lined narrows of Howell Mountain lies Arkenstone Vineyards, a relative newcomer thats already making world-class Cabernet Sauvignon. Schedule an appointment to tour and taste ($45/person), and enjoy structured Cabernet blends, Syrah, Sauvignon Blanc and the lovely, bone-dry Loup Rose, made in miniscule quantities. The views of the valley are worth the price alone.

Larkmead Vineyards Calistogas Larkmead is a respected producer of allocated wines open by appointment daily from 10 am3 pm. Taste the winerys rare Tocai Friulano, Sauvignon Blanc, Cabernet Sauvignon, a range of proprietary blends and the signature Firebelle, a Bordeaux-style blend ideal for cellaring.

Palmaz Vineyards At Palmaz Vineyards in Napa, the two-hour appointment includes a seated tasting with small hors doeuvres and a walk through the expansive caves (including the worlds largest underground reinforced structure, with a height of 54 feet and diameter of 72 feet) dug into the living rock of Mount George ($60/person). The gravity- ow winery and consultant Mia Klein make valley standards like Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay, but also Riesling and Muscat Canelli.

Stony Hill Vineyard On the rocky slopes of Spring Mountain, Stony Hill is a breath of fresh air in a land of red wine. Its a historic producer of elegant white wines, including crisp, minimally oaked, no-malolactic Chardonnay, Gewrztraminer and Riesling. Cabernet Sauvignon is a recent addition aft er 60 years of family ownership. Proprietor Willinda McCrea and longtime winemaker Mike Chelini give 90-minute tours and tastings ($45/person) at the ranch house by appointment MondaySaturday from 9 am3:30 pm. Hungry groups of four should consider the cooking classes ($175/person) by appointment from 11 am3 pm.

The Grade Cellars By de nition, The Grade Cellars in Calistoga is off the beaten pathits Win eld Vineyard is located on remote Old Toll Road Pass. Acclaimed winemaking consultant Thomas Rivers Brown craft s The Grade Cabernet Sauvignon and Sea-Fog Sauvignon Blanc from two single vineyards. Re ecting the owners passion, the brand is named aft er a passage in Robert Louis Stevensons The Silverado Squatters. By appointment.

Venge Vineyards Also in Calistoga, Venge Vineyardslies within the foothills of the Palisades Mountains. Its the culmination of meticulous winemaking by Kirk Venge, who learned the ropes from dad Nils. The focus is Cabernet Sauvignon, with smaller smatterings of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Syrah. Advance reservations are required to taste allocated wines at the winery ranch house, limited to eight guests at a time, from WednesdaySunday.

FaillaSt. Helena

Failla, off the Silverado Trail in St. Helena, is an unusual nd in the Napa Valley. Its the personal project of Ehren Jordan, who toiled for years as the general manager/winemaker/viticulturalist at Turley Wine Cellars. Jordan makes Sonoma Coast Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Syrah, unlikely wines for this part of the world. Stop in, blow your mind and freshen your palate. Tours and tastings are by appointment.

Shafer VineyardsStags Leap District

Shafers Hillside Select is one of Napas iconic Cabernet Sauvignons. Taste it without being on the mailing list or dropping $300 by visiting family-run Shafer Vineyards in the Stags Leap District. Tastings are by appointment weekdays at 10 am and 2 pm ($55/person), limited to 10 guests at a time. The relaxed visits consist of ve wines, including Hillside.

WINEMAG.COM | 45

Cain Vineyard & WinerySpring Mountain

Venture up to Cain Vineyard & Winery, remotely hidden atop Spring Mountain, to savor a view of Napas valley oor from a western perspective. Visitors are invited to climb Spring Mountain Road to the even more winding Langtry Road weekdays at 10 am and 11:30 am for a walk around the winery and tasting of current releases. Included is the estates signature Cain Five, a classic Bordeaux-style blend with plenty of mountain-hewn structure ($35/person).

Hyde de VillaineNapa

Hyde de Villaine is unassumingly tucked off a main road in downtown Napa. This partnership between Burgundy legend Aubert de Villaine of Domaine de la Romane-Conti and long-respected Carneros grape-grower Larry Hyde produces gorgeously rendered Chardonnay, Syrah and Belle Cousine, a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. Tastings by appointment.

SpottswoodeSt. Helena

Another family-run winery, Spottswoode, occupies a very different setting near downtown St. Helena. The 90-minute tasting and tour ($50/person) includes stops at its estate vineyard, historic family home, gardens and ghost winery stone cellar. It offers tasters the chance to indulge in a more genteel side of the valley, plus supremely elegant Cabernet Sauvignon and Sauvignon Blanc.


Cindys Backstreet KitchenSt. Helena

To eat where the locals eat, particularly winemakers, head to Cindys Backstreet Kitchen, situated literally on a back street behind the main drag in St. Helena. The combination of Chef Cindy Pawlcyns elevated comfort food (oysters, pork tacos, burgers, polenta fries and meatloaf), inspired list of wines (by the glass and half-bottle) and casual atmosphere is hard to beat.

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Alex ItalianRutherford

In Rutherford, Alex Italian offers the chance to indulge in ne Italian food in a small dining room, just fancy enough to wear a tie or dress, but not otherwise ridiculously overstated. Grandly made pasta is on heavy rotation, with secondi centered on the likes of seared duck, wild-caught sea bass and Sonoma rabbit. The well-stocked half-bottle list of Napa and international superstars (Araujo, Opus One, Gaja) alone makes Alex well worth the stopsample several from your wine bucket list. The restaurant is attached to the tranquil Rancho Caymus Inn, also worth a visit.

FarmNapa

Further off the grid is Farm Restaurantat The Carneros Inn outside of Napa, surrounded by Instagram-worthy swathes of vineyard and endless sky. Enjoy dinner near the fireplace or on the expansive patioequally desirable destinations to take in a fresh cocktail or two or a glass of Carneros-made wine. It just feels like vacation.

LucyYountville

Hidden in restaurant-heavy Yountville is Lucy Restaurant & Bar. Situated within the calming Bardessono Hotel, the menu and cocktails are inspired by the hotel garden and nearby purveyors, and the wine list focuses on small-production organic, sustainable and biodynamic wines. The special, family-style Garden Table Menu for 610 people is the star here, centered around a chef-guided garden tour and cooking demonstration, followed by lunch or dinner.

SolbarCalistoga

For a true escape into swimming pool-and-palm-tree-lined heaven, head to Solbar within the con nes of the Solage resort in Calistoga. Not only has the food deservedly earned a Michelin star, inspired by local, sustainably-farmed ingredients turned into California soul food, its the place to while away an aft ernoon or early evening indulging in ridiculously delicious cocktails (the Charbay Green Tea Vodka-based Sex in the Valley is a favorite) or wines on tap. The wine list is inspired, a place to discover small, local brands you havent yet had the chance to try.


Calistoga RanchCalistoga

Calistoga Ranch is hidden among the trees off a back road on the eastern edge of Calistoga. Sprawling over 157 acres, with 50 well-appointed rooms and lodges, spa services, forest and hiking trails, its a true getaway thats not too removed from the action. The Lakehouse is the propertys onsite restaurant, overlooking Lake Lommel.

WINEMAG.COM | 49

Milliken Creek Inn & SpaNapa

Milliken Creek Inn & Spa lies hidden along the Silverado Trail behind the city of Napa along Milliken Creek. With 12 luxurious rooms, complimentary breakfast and soothing spa treatments, it emphasizes mental and physical renewal, a philosophy that includes wine, of course. The inn hosts the Magic Hour every night, a wine-and-cheese reception held at sunset, then pours premium Ports to close out the night.

The Poetry InnStags Leap

The Poetry Inn, perched atop a climbing Stags Leap District road, de nes hideaway, a contrast to sister property Cliff Lede Vineyards down below. Rooms range from 9601,450 square feet, with a three-course gourmet breakfast included in any stay. Rooms face west to take in the views of the Mayacamas range, and feature ne amenities like Italian linens, wood-burning replaces and outdoor showers. Theres an outdoor pool and hot tub, and much more. The entire property may be rented for larger groups or serious privacy.

The Poetry Inn

The Poetry Inn

WINEMAG.COM | 51

NAPAS UNSUNG HEROES

Though oft en overshadowed by the regions big reds, Napa Valleys top white wines shouldnt be overlooked.

lthough the second most planted grape variety in Napa is Chardonnayand the region is fa-mous for itNapas white wines have oft en been knocked as lacking the fruit and vibrancy

found in wines grown in cooler areas. And yet, these whites have a distinguished history. In the years following the repeal of

Prohibition, Napa Valley Smillon, Sylvaner, Folle Blanche, Traminer, Pinot Blanc, Sau-vignon Blanc and many others, including Chardonnay, were esteemed on restaurant

wine lists. While great Napa Chardonnay remains rare, when its good, its very, very good.

The same can be said of other Napa whites, especially Sauvignon Blanc, arguably the regions most expressive white wine.

Rhne-style white wines, including Viognier, are more questionable, but diligent searching will yield pay dirt.

Among the aromatic whites like Albario, Grner Veltliner, Riesling and Pinot Gris/Grigio, at their best they display classic Napa elegance and balance. The catch? There arent a lot of them.

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ChardonnayThe best Napa Chardonnays come from cool, southern sectionsa broad corridor that stretches from Carneros through Oak Knoll and Coombsville. It reaches up into the southern Vaca Mountains, sweeps across the Stags Leap District and Yountville, and stretches up onto the slopes of Mount Veeder.

Its a stretch to assert that good Chardon-nay cant be grown north of Yountville or Stags Leap. Too many exceptions exist.

Freemark Abbey has craft ed fi ne versions from Howell Mountain, while Smith-Madro-nes bottlings from Spring Mountain have long been notable for their tight minerality.

In the warmer parts of Napas fl atlands, Chardonnay is pretty much a commodity grape, if grown at all.

Carneros, with its wide-open exposure to the winds and fogs of San Pablo Bay, is the pivot point for Chardonnay in Napa Valley. Shafers Red Shoulder Ranch is a fl agship, as are Chardonnays from Vine Cliff , Kazmer & Blaise, Baldacci, Donum, Patz & Hall, Pine Ridge, Failla and Artesa.

These wines are marked not only by fruit, but crisp acidity and lingering minerality. These are streamlined wines, elegant rather than dramatic, that pair brilliantly with food.

Ehren Jordan, who sources Chardon-nay from the Hudson Vineyard for his Failla brand, doesnt think that Carneros is quite as cool as people believe.

Compared to [Sonoma Countys] Petalu-ma Gap, its an oven, he says.

But Carneross deep clay soils, the result of the regions estuarial origins along the shores of San Pablo Bay, play a key role in shaping the wines structures. The soils re-tain freshness in the grapes, even during heat waves that can exceed 100 degrees.

Northeast of Carneros, Jarvis has one of Napas best track records for Chardonnay. The estate vineyard, in the Vaca Mountains south of Atlas Peak, has the perfect combina-tion of warm days and cool nights.

Chardonnay needs to ripen, yet retain mouthwatering acidity, and location plays a key role, says winemaker Ted Henry.

Were close to San Pablo Bay, so we get that marine infl uence, Henry says.

Another fi ne Chardonnay from this region just north of the city of Napa is Signorello Es-tates Hopes Cuve bottling.

The grapes come from the estate vineyard beside the Silverado Trail. While the result-ing wine is lush in oak and lees, and creamy from full malolactic fermentation, a touch of Carneros briskness oft en shows up as saline minerality and keen acidity.

Some of the best Napa Chardonnays are blends. Hunnicutts is a good example, com-bining fruit from a Coombsville vineyard with grapes from warmer Rutherford.

Justin Stephens, the owner/winemaker, concedes that Rutherford, outside the arc of coolness, generally produces insipid, fl ab-by Chardonnay.

But for some reason, our vineyard re-tains acidity, despite having fairly high pH, he says. Its bizarre.

Stephens believes that the old vines used have become attuned to that environment.

The Coombsville vineyard brings a more linear component and a better acid profi le, he says, due to its more southerly location. The two wines are pretty disparate, tasted on their own.

The combination of the two shows how divots from individual sites can be fi lled in through the art of judicious blending.

Recommended Wines

94Jarvis 2012 Finch Hollow Es-tate Grown Cave Fermented Un ltered Chardonnay (Napa Val-ley). This starts off oaky, which is understandable given that it was aged in 100% new French barrels. Then the acidity and lees hit you, a welcome parry to the woody sweet-ness. Lurking just below the sur-face are mango, pineapple, peach, kumquat and lime fruit fl avors, as ripe as any Chardonnay on the market. Its a fl ashy, opulent wine, but young. One of the few Chards that deserves a Cellar Selection designation, it will show better af-ter 2016. Cellar Selection.abv: 14.8% Price: $130

93Failla 2011 Hudson Vineyard Chardonnay (Napa Valley).This precisely craft ed wine lift s Carneros Chardonnay to a whole new level. Yes, its pricy, but its so complex and decadent that its worth it. The alcohol is refresh-ingly low, the acidity is bright, and theres a lick of steel to balance the nectarine and mango fruit, but-tered-toast and cream fl avors.abv: 13.8% Price: $50

93Jeff Hill 2012 Chardonnay (Napa Valley). Heres an example that Napa Valley really can produce great Chardonnay. Its a terrifi c wine, utterly dry and crisp, with a fl inty minerality and lime, peach and green-apple fl avors. It was largely barrel-fermented, but the oak never feels heavy or tastes sweet. Instead, it provides a subtle perfume throughout. Dont drink this wine too cold, or youll miss the nuances. abv: 14.6% Price: $50

93Shafer 2011 Red Shoulder Ranch Chardonnay (Car-neros). A huge Chardonnay, so full-bodied and rich, its almost like a red wine, but thats the Red Shoulder personality. With fl avors of buttercream, jammy tropical fruit, orange custard, vanilla, but-tered toast and brown sugar, it would be over the top, except for vibrant acidity and a deep mineral-ity. Drink now2017. abv: 14.8% Price: $50

92Pine Ridge 2010 Le Petit Clos Chardonnay (Stags Leap District). Very rich and dra-maticthe grapes used for this wine were grown in a tiny, cool block of the estate in this corner of Cabernet country. Its full yet balanced, with crisp acidity, tangy minerality and lots of ripe tropical-fruit fl avors. This did not undergo malolactic fermentation. abv: 14.2% Price: $65

91Hunnicutt 2012 Chardonnay (Napa Valley). Known as a Cabernet specialist, Hunnicutt also knows Chardonnay, as evidenced by a string of successes since 2008. The 2012 is a rich, rewarding wine. Its extraordinarily ripe in peach, green-apple and tropical-fruit fl a-vors. The grapes were sourced from cool Coombsville and warm Ruth-erford, giving the wine exceptional balance. abv: 14.1% Price: $45

Napas Other White WinesBeyond Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc, good bottlings tend to be individ-ual efforts. While a winery might focus on a particular grape, success doesnt generally translate to the valley as a whole.

That doesnt mean these wines arent worth seeking out. All of the following are worth tryingthey may even become personal favorites.

Albario: Abrente, Artesa, HendryChenin Blanc: Ballentine, Chappellet

Gewrztraminer: Stony HillGrner Veltliner: Von Strasser

Malvasia Bianca: BallentineRhne-style blends: Krupp BrothersRiesling: Smith-Madrone, Stony Hill,

Trefethen, V. SattuiRoussanne: Truchard

Vermentino: MahoneyViognier: Darioush, Freemark Abbey

Other blends: Massican, Matthiasson, Robert Sinskey

WINEMAG.COM | 55

Sauvignon BlancWithout an extra kick of sunshine, Sauvi-gnon Blanc can have unpleasant vegetal aro-mas. Overcropping, which oft en exists with commodity Sauvignon Blanc, accentuates the problem, sacrifi cing quality for quantity.

Although important exceptions exist, Napas southern arc of Chardonnay coun-try is too cool for Sauvignon Blanc. The best sites are further northwest and inlandthe western benches extending from Oakville and Rutherford, hopping across Highway 29 into the Rutherford fl ats and up to Calistoga.

Aft er tinkering with a barrel-fermented style in the 1990s that largely didnt work, vintners have developed a more hands-off approach to Sauvignon Blanc. They pick ear-lier to maintain freshness and acidity, expose the wines to only limited oak and sometimes fatten them up with a little Smillon.

Many like to put Sauvignon Blanc through malolactic fermentation, but as consumer tastes have swung toward crispness, wine-makers increasingly block it.

The Oakville bench is home to the fabled To Kalon Vineyard. Robert Mondavis head of winemaking, Genevive Janssens, says that while To Kalon is more famous for Caber-net Sauvignon, the vineyards gravelly, well-drained soil gives freshness and minerality to Sauvignon Blanc.

But its also her winemaking technique that elevates and expresses the terroir.

We always put a little Smillon in, and the oak varies, says Janssens. We test each individual barrel, and if one is too overpow-ering in oak, we dont include it.

In cool years, Janssens says, she manages the pyrazines by letting the grapes hang lon-ger, even at the risk of early rains.

Kevin Morrisey, winemaker at Ehlers Lane a bit further north in St. Helena, recog-nizes that his terroir is quite warm.

I dont have to worry about picking grapes green or unripe, says Morrisey. Theres nev-er any of that pyrazine, bell pepper.

The warmth enables him to harvest at rel-atively low brix.

I keep pushing the envelope in terms of how early I pick, Morrisey says. Maybe someday, the wines will be good at 12.9 per-cent, and Id get even more of that natural acidity.

Brian Kosi, at Atalon, took a classic ap-

proach with his 2012 Sauvignon Blanc. Blended with a splash of Smillon, it was fer-mented in stainless steel, but partially aged in neutral oak, with exposure to the lees.

However, Kosi blocked the malolactic fer-mentation.

We want to retain that natural acidity, he says.

The grapes hail from both warm and cool areas across the valley.

We can produce a much more complex wine by blending, Kosi says, noting that it allowed Atalon to boost production to 10,000 cases.

Yet, just as good Chardonnay can come from warm areas, quality Sauvignon Blanc can be produced from cool ones.

Grgich Hills winemaker, Ivo Jeramaz, grows the grapes for his Essence Sauvignon Blanc in American Canyon, an unappellated area south of the city of Napa that he says is chillier than Carneros.

So how does he avoid green notes? We control yields, says Jeramaz, neph-

ew of winery founder Mike Grgich. Most of our vineyards are dry-farmed, so canopies dont get gigantic.

Low yields focus fl avors in the grapes, thereby concentrating the wines richness. Jeramazs techniques, which include aging on the lees in large French foudres, also help to round and soft en the wine.

Jeramaz doesnt blend in Smillon, but he uses some of the musqu clone of Sauvignon Blanc, which adds a Muscat-like spiciness and complexity to his wines.

Recommended Wines

95Grgich Hills 2012 Essence Estate Grown Sauvignon Blanc (Napa Valley). The Es-sence in the designation refers to the wines sources, which are selected blocks from the winerys vineyards in the southern part of Napa. The wine is absolutely dry, mouthwatering in acidity and vastly complex. Theres a touch of smoky, vanilla-scented French oak, but the fruit fl avors star. They sug-gest stone-driven minerals, Meyer lemons, limes, white peaches, pink grapefruits and a savory, umami-rich note of fi gs. The wine is ideal now, and it should evolve for many years. abv: 13.5% Price: $50

93Ehlers Estate 2012 Sauvi-gnon Blanc (St. Helena).This is one of the best Sauvignon Blancs of the vintage, from a win-ery with a fi ne track record for pro-ducing the variety. Maybe its the organic fruit that makes it so pure. Certainly, the absence of notice-able oak lets the citrus and tropical fruits shine. With refreshingly low alcohol and lots of mouthwatering acidity, its an absolute delight to drink now. Editors Choice.abv: 13.2% Price: $28

92Atalon 2012 Sauvignon Blanc (Napa Valley). Dry and crisp with acidity, this Sau-vignon Blanc, with 3% Smillon, was fermented in stainless steel but partially aged in neutral oak barrels. The palate shows complex fl avors of citrus fruits, Asian pears, lychee, cashews, vanilla, minerals and white pepper, with a touch of honey. The grapes come from all around the valley, including the cooler Oak Knoll District as well as warmer St. Helena. A brilliant example of blending, and easy to fi nd, with 10,000 cases produced. Editors Choice.abv: 13.5% Price: $20

92Robert Mondavi 2011 Re-serve To Kalon Vineyard Fum Blanc (Napa Valley). The cool vintage resulted in an unusually lean and streamlined wine, but by no means uninteresting. Its subtly fruity, with hints of citrus zest and grapefruit. The main note, how-ever, is gooseberrybarely ripe, acidic, mouthwatering and white-peppery. The fi nish is absolutely dry. It should develop earthy, dried fruit notes over the next six years. Editors Choice.abv: 13.5% Price: $40

92Ziata 2011 Sauvignon Blanc (Napa Valley). The price makes this one of the more expen-sive Sauvignon Blancs on the mar-ket, but its also one of the best. The grapes come from a cool region in east Napa and from warmer Ruth-erford. The wine shows terrifi cally ripe, complex fruit fl avors, with a superb structure of acidity and a minerally chalkiness that makes it tangy. It was fermented in stain-less steel and aged in neutral oak barrels. The formula is frequently copied, but few Sauvignon Blancs achieve this level of quality. abv: 14.1% Price: $28

91B Cellars 2012 Sauvignon Blanc (Napa Valley). A lovely wine, wonderful to drink now, and can be paired with charcuterie, ceviche or even asparagus. The grapes were mostly fermented in stainless steel, with just a little neutral oak, leaving the tropical fruit, spearmint and peach fl avors to star. Brisk in acidity, its a bar-gain at this price. abv: 14.5% Price: $29

The Sweeter Side of NapaWith its warm, lingering autumns, Napa can produce extraordinary sweet wines. Here are three favorites.

Beringer Nightingale (Smillon-Sauvignon Blanc)

Far Niente Dolce (Smillon-Sauvignon Blanc)

Joseph Phelps Eisrbe (Scheurebe)

Producers in Tuscanys agship wine region are divided over

splitting it into subzones, but the idea has merit.

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Forget recent debates over new oak, ex-cessively low yields and native grapes versus international varieties. Today, the hottest topic in Italy is the creation of subzones.

Nowhere does it stir up more pas-sion than in Montalcino, home to the Brunello di Montalcino DOCG (denom-inazione di origine controllata e garan-tita).

I used to get asked about wood aging when I visited diff er-ent markets, says Francesco Marone Cinzano, owner of the Col dOrcia estate and an avid supporter of creating subzones in Montalcino. Now, I get more and more questions regard-ing the physical location of the vineyards.

Cinzanos observations refl ect consumer appreciation of the growing trend among Italian winemakers to focus less on cellar practices and more on vineyardsspecifi cally, vineyard location.

Barbaresco and Barolo led the way in 2007 and 2010, when the two denominations offi cially mapped out their vineyards into geographic mentions. In Chianti Classico, producers are rallying to create subzones based on that regions nine townships.

Montalcino, however, is a single township. Most produc-erswith some notable exceptions, like Altesinos Montosoli bottlingdont refer to their single vineyards on labels or as distinct geographic locations.

This has led to the perception that Montalcino is one big, happy denomination, with no need to highlight diff erences by adding another layer of geographic precision.

Producers here are divided over zoning. Opponents fear that a classifi cation system would penalize them, says Fabrizio Bindocci, president of the Brunello di Montalcino consortium.

Our 5,187 acres of Brunello represent the premier cru of Montalcino, the best areas that you can fi nd throughout every

part of the township, with no distinctions, says Bindocci. So far, no one has put forth a zoning proposal. If producers do, then well evaluate it.

For Piero Antinori, zoning is premature. Zoning runs the risk of giving imprecise and misleading

evaluations, says Antinori. I think we still need more years of experience to carry out a work of solid scientifi c value that this delicate matter requires.

Other producers say zoning is essential now. Sangiovese, the only grape allowed in Brunello, is notori-

ously site-sensitive and performs diff erently depending on its environment.

In the vast township of Montalcino, growing conditions vary dramatically. Vineyard altitudes range from 300 to over 1,640 feet above sea level, there is a dizzying array of soils and summertime temperatures can vary more than seven degrees from north to south.

Wine styles here can range from elegant and ageworthy to muscular and immediate. Subzone supporters insist that cre-ating separate regions will highlight the characteristics of each and help consumers navigate the minefi eld of Brunello styles.

All the great wine denominations in the world are divided into smaller, distinct subzones, says Andrea Costanti, a highly regarded producer. Montalcino cant avoid the situation for much longer. And a better knowledge of Montalcino and its wines will only benefi t everyone in the long run.

Even though some subzones are clearly superior to others, deciding which Brunello to buy depends on what consumers are seeking. Those looking for ageworthy Brunellos that will develop layers of complexity should concentrate on the origi-nal growing areas around Montalcinos town center.

For more muscular Brunellos, consumers should investi-gate bottlings from SantAngelo. For combined elegance and power, look to Castelnuovo dellAbate.

Though unoffi cial, the following breakdown is widely re-garded as the most sensible initial zoning for Brunello.BR

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wine enthusiast - may 2014

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