september 2013 - wine enthusiast magazine

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BUYINGGUIDE

WineMag.com | 1

IN THIS MONTH’S GUIDE

The view from a vineyard in Columbia Valley, Washington, with Oregon’s

Mt. Hood in the distance.

2 WASHINGTON

20 CALIFORNIA

36 CHILE

44 AUSTRALIA

49 ISRAEL

51 AUSTRIA

58 GERMANY

61 PIEDMONT

69 BORDEAUX

74 SOUTHWEST FRANCE

77 SPIRITS

79 BEER

FOR ADDITIONAL RATINGS AND REVIEWS, VISIT BUYINGGUIDE.WINEMAG.COM

BUYINGGUIDE

2 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | SEPTEMBER 2013

CHARDONNAY

92 Chateau Ste. Michelle 2011 Cold Creek Vineyard Chardonnay (Columbia Valley).

For full review see page 5. Editors’ Choice. abv: 14.5% Price: $25

91 Chateau Ste. Michelle 2011 Ethos Re-serve Chardonnay (Columbia Valley). For

full review see page 6. abv: 14.5% Price: $30

91 Obelisco Estate 2011 Chardonnay (Co-lumbia Valley). This was done half in stain-

less and half in oak, and the blend is near perfect. Spicy and full-bodied, the peppery fruit is nicely set against a gentle backdrop of barrel toast. Cantaloupe, apple and papaya flavors are in abundance, with a finish of toasted coconut. —P.G. abv: 13.8% Price: $35

91 Woodinville Wine Cellars 2012 Unoaked Conner Lee Vineyard Chardonnay (Co-

lumbia Valley). Designated unoaked, this flavorful Chardonnay proves the grape has more going on than its reputation suggests, when sourced from a great vine-yard (such as Conner Lee) and carefully managed. Tex-tural with melon, pear, apple and light tropical influenc-es, this is long, complex and utterly delicious. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 14% Price: $25

90 àMaurice 2010 Conner Lee Vineyard Chardonnay (Columbia Valley). Still youth-

ful and showing a fair amount of barrel in the nose, this unfined and unfiltered single-vineyard Chardonnay will

benefit from another few years of cellaring. Fresh apple and peach flavors anchor a solid mid palate. —P.G. abv: 14.5% Price: $28

90 Barnard Griffin 2011 Chardonnay (Co-lumbia Valley). Another jazzy, Best Buy win-

ner from Barnard Griffin, this 2011 Chardonnay should be sipped to the tune of Harry Nilsson’s “Put The Lime In The Coconut,” which neatly captures the flavors. Complex fruits, including apples, citrus—and yes, co-conut—add up to a wine both sleek and satisfying, with toasted almonds rounding out the finish. Best Buy. —P.G. abv: 13.2% Price: $14

90 Chateau Ste. Michelle 2011 Indian Wells Chardonnay (Columbia Valley). For full re-

view see page 8. Editors’ Choice. abv: 13.5% Price: $17

90 Côte Bonneville 2010 Estate Bottled Du-Brul Vineyard Chardonnay (Yakima Val-

ley). This estate-grown Chardonnay comes from one of the most expressive sites in the Yakima Valley. In this cooler vintage, it puts the accent on elegance. A judi-cious mix of apple, pear and peach fruit is matched with toasty accents from 100% barrel fermentation. —P.G. abv: 14.1% Price: $50

88 AntoLin Cellars 2011 Gamache Vine-yards Chardonnay (Columbia Valley).

This wine is showing excessive oakiness at the moment, but it’s so young that it could easily meld into the fruit with another few months in the bottle. Sharp and youth-ful, it has some real fruit power from the Gamache vine-yard grapes. Apple and citrus rind dominate, with a touch of butter in the finish. —P.G. abv: 13.9% Price: $19

87 Gordon Estate 2012 Chardonnay (Co-lumbia Valley). This is a solid, all-purpose

Chardonnay, a bit less oaky and oily than some previ-ous efforts from Gordon, but showing firm, clean, ripe apple and pear fruit. The wine is balanced and smooth, delivering plenty of no-frills fruit flavor for the price. —P.G. abv: 13.7% Price: $16

87 Waterbrook 2011 Reserve Chardonnay (Columbia Valley). Aged in 68% new French

oak, the barrel notes take center stage here with aromas of toast and spice. The palate is creamy and full with a viscous feel, tapering in concentration toward the fin-ish. —S.S. abv: 13.65% Price: $15

85 Apex 2011 Chardonnay (Columbia Val-ley). This 100% varietal wine is lightly aromatic

with notes of toast, spice and apple. The oak aging (20% new French) helps provide a sense of roundness but the fruit concentration doesn’t seem to stand up to it. —S.S. abv: 13.9% Price: $15

85 Canoe Ridge 2011 Reserve Chardonnay Chardonnay (Horse Heaven Hills). Bar-

rel fermented in American oak (40% new), the notes of vanilla, butterscotch, and candle wax overshadow the tropical fruit notes. Full malolactic fermentation gives it a broad feel with the alcohol warming the finish. —S.S. abv: 13.9% Price: $24

85 Original House Wine 2011 House Wine Chardonnay (Columbia Valley). Lightly ar-

omatic with notes of pear, spice, and a kiss of caramel. The small amounts of Viognier (9%) and Sémillon (2%)

Continued on Page 12

WASHINGTON

There is no single, iconic grape associated with Washington. Unlike Oregon (Pinot Noir), Argentina (Malbec), New Zealand (Sauvignon Blanc) and other emerging New World wine producers, Washington

seems to make a bit of everything. To some, that’s confusing. Nonetheless, it’s time to acknowledge that this diversity is an asset. Think of Washing-ton in the same way you look at California. Different grapes thrive in dif-ferent parts of the state.

Within the vast Columbia Valley AVA are 10 other AVAs. As vineyards age, clones improve and plantings reach into higher (altitude and/or latitude) locations, specific strengths have emerged. In the new Ancient Lakes AVA, mineral-rich soils and cool temperatures produce Rieslings and Sauvignon Blancs of unusual clarity and precision. The heat of the Wahluke Slope AVA ripens Syrah beautifully, while in the rock-strewn Walla Walla Valley, the grape acquires a rich, umami flavor.

Red Mountain is Cabernet country, while the Horse Heaven Hills produce stunning Merlots and Chardonnays. The Yakima Valley’s cool

sites bring snappy acidity to Rieslings and Chardonnays; the Rattlesnake Hills and Snipes Mountain AVAs, located within it, ripen Bordeaux grapes beautifully, without sacrificing their natural herbaceousness. And in the Columbia Gorge AVA, just outside the Columbia Valley’s boundary on the eastern flanks of the Cascade Mountains, Gewürztraminer, Pinot Gris and Grüner Veltliner thrive.

None of these are one-trick-pony regions, and Washington viticulture is continuing to evolve, expand and explore. Specific grapes are particularly expressive in specific, well-defined sub-regions, and this bountiful diversity makes exploring Washington wines all the more interesting.

You’ll find dozens of reviews from Washington State in this month’s Buying Guide, as well as selections from Australia, Austria, California, Chile, France, Germany, Israel and Italy. And, as always, be sure to check out our complete Buying Guide database at buyingguide.winemag.com for thousands more wine reviews.

Cheers! —Paul GreGutt

CELEBRATING THE DIVERSITY OF WASHINGTON STATE WINES

95 Gigi Rosso 2009 Arione (Barolo). Arione shows its Serralunga d’Alba pedigree via classic

aromas of black cherry, leather, truffle and rose petal. The palate delivers lush wild-cherry flavors and hints of truffle, mint and the vineyard’s hallmark licorice. It’s beautifully balanced, with firm but ripe tannins and just enough freshness, and is simply a gorgeous Barolo. Wine 4 All. Editors’ Choice. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $49

95 Jarvis 2007 Estate Grown Cave Ferment-ed Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley).

Cabernet hardly gets richer or riper than this. The wine offers a huge blast of ripe and concentrated blackber-ries, cherries, cassis and mocha. The tannins are dense, yet soft and rich, while the acidity is just strong enough to support the structure. What a beauty. Lovely to drink now, and will develop over the next 10-plus years. Cel-lar Selection. —S.H. abv: 14.1% Price: $130

94 Dunham 2011 Lewis Estate Vineyard Riesling (Columbia Valley). As consistent

as ever, this is sleek and stylish, with complex, layered flavors of citrus rind, citrus flesh and delicate tropical fruits. There are further highlights of honeycomb and dried apricot, and mouth-pleasing, underlying mineral-ity. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 12.5% Price: $20

94 Dutton-Goldfield 2011 Dutton Ranch Walker Hill Vineyard Chardonnay (Green

Valley). Another terrific 2011 Chardonnay from the winery. Grower Steve Dutton and winemaker Dan Goldfield together have negotiated the ups and downs of the chilly vintage to produce a crisp, smooth, elegant and, above all, delicious wine. It’s elaborate in oak-influ-enced lemons, tropical fruits and sweet nectarines, with racy acidity that makes the mouth water. Drink now–2017. —S.H. abv: 14.1% Price: $50

94 Joseph Phelps 2011 Freestone Vine-yards Estate Grown Chardonnay (So-

noma Coast). What a roll Phelps has been on these past few cool vintages in this, its far Sonoma Coast vine-yard. The wine is bright in mouthwatering acidity, and tantalizing, with a subtle vein of lime, golden mango, or-ange zest and honeysuckle. Firm minerals are enriched by toasty oak. The alcohol is moderate. As delicious as this wine is, it should develop nicely over the next 5–6 years. Cellar Selection. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $55

94 L’Ecole No. 41 2010 Perigee Estate Sev-en Hills Vineyard (Walla Walla Valley). A

five-grape Bordeaux-style blend from the estate vine-yard, this has lovely aro matics, as well as firm yet sup-ple tannins. The black fruits are dotted with details of licorice, black tea and coffee. It’s smooth and balanced through the lengthy finish, and continues to improve overnight, suggesting it also has serious aging potential. Cellar Selection. —P.G. abv: 14.5% Price: $50

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The Wine Enthusiast Buying Guide

The Buying Guide includes ratings and reviews of new-release and selected older beverage alcohol products evaluated by Wine Enthusiast Magazine’s editors and other qualified tasters. Regular contributors to our Buying Guide include Tasting Director Lauren Buzzeo, Assistant Tasting Director Anna Lee C. Iijima, Executive Editor Susan Kostrzewa, Managing Editor Joe Czerwinski, Contributing Editor Michael Schachner, Contributing Taster Andrew Hoover and Spirits Editor Kara Newman in New York, European Editor Roger Voss in Bordeaux, Italian Editor Kerin O’Keefe in Switzerland, California Editor Steve Heimoff in Oakland, Contributing Editor Virginie Boone in Santa Rosa and Contributing Editors Paul Gregutt and Sean Sullivan in Seattle.

If a wine was evaluated by a single reviewer, that taster’s initials appear following the note. When no initials appear following a wine review, the wine was evaluated by two or more reviewers and the score and tasting note reflect the input of all tasters. Unless otherwise stated, all Spirits Reviews are by Kara Newman and all beer reviews are by Lauren Buzzeo.

Each review contains a score, the full name of the product, its suggested national retail price, its abv as reported to us by the submitter and a tasting note. If price or alcohol content cannot be confirmed, NA (not available) will be printed. Prices are for 750-ml bottles unless otherwise indicated.

TASTING METHODOLOGY AND GOALSAll tastings reported in the Buying Guide are performed blind unless otherwise noted. Typically, products are tasted in peer-group flights of from 5–8 samples. Price is not a factor in assigning scores. When possible, products considered flawed or uncustomary are retasted.

ABOUT THE SCORESRatings reflect what our editors felt about a particular product. Beyond the rating, we encourage you to read the accompanying tasting note to learn about a product’s special characteristics.

Classic 98–100: The pinnacle of quality. Superb 94–97: A great achievement. Excellent 90–93: Highly recommended. Very Good 87–89: Often good value; well recommended. Good 83–86: Suitable for everyday consumption; often good value. Acceptable 80–82: Can be employed in casual, less- critical circumstances.

Products deemed Unacceptable (receiving a rating below 80 points) are not reviewed.

SPECIAL DESIGNATIONSEditors’ Choice products are those that offer excellent

quality at a price above our Best Buy range, or a product at any price with unique qualities that merit special attention.

Cellar Selections are products deemed highly collectible and/or requiring time in a temperature-controlled wine cellar to reach their maximum potential. A Cellar Selection designation does not mean that a product must be stored to be enjoyed, but that cellaring will probably result in a more enjoyable bottle. In general, an optimum time for cellaring will be indicated.

Best Buys are products that offer a high level of quality in relation to price. There are no specific guidelines or formulae for determining Best Buys, but wines meriting this award are generally priced at $15 or less.

SUBMITTING PRODUCTS FOR REVIEWProducts should be submitted to the appropriate reviewing location as detailed in our FAQ, available online via winemag.com/contactus. Inquiries should be addressed to the Tasting & Review Department at 914.345.9463 or email [email protected]. There is no charge for submitting products. We make every effort to taste all products submitted for review, but there is no guarantee that all products submitted will be tasted, or that reviews will appear in the magazine. All samples must be accompanied by the appropriate submission forms, which may be downloaded from our Web site.

LABELSLabels are paid promotions. Producers and importers are given the opportunity to submit labels, which are reproduced and printed along with tasting notes and scores. For information on label purchases, contact Denise Valenza at 813.571.1122; fax 866.896.8786; or email [email protected].

Find all reviews on our fully searchable database at buyingguide.winemag.com


BUYINGGUIDEBUYINGGUIDE

94 MacPhail 2011 Dutton Ranch Pinot Noir (Green Valley). A great success, showing the

airy silkiness of Pinot Noir, and the intensity of Russian River fruit. Waves of raspberries, cherries, red currants, licorice and bacon lead to a long finish of exotic baking spices. Bright with acidity, this does a great job of com-bining power and elegance. Drink now–2019. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $49

94 Produttori del Barbaresco 2008 Vigneti in Muncagota Riserva (Barbaresco). This

single-vineyard Barbaresco Riserva shows lovely floral and fruit scents of violet, iris, ripe berry and pressed powder. The palate is delicious, with black cherry, plum and spice uplifted by freshness and energizing miner-al notes. It has ample depth and balance, and while it’s drinking well now, it will also age for years. Vias Im-ports. Cellar Selection. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $62

94 Torbreck 2010 The Struie Shiraz (Baros-sa). This is a terrifically full-bodied, lush Shiraz

that nevertheless retains a sense of balance and freshness. Vaguely minty, herbal notes make a brief appearance, then give way to raspberry and blueberry fruit. Savory hints creep in on the palate, further increasing its ap-peal. This blend of fruit from the Barossa and Eden valleys should drink well through at least 2020. Wine Creek. Editors’ Choice. —J.C. abv: 15% Price: $50

93 Jarvis 2010 Estate Grown Cave Ferment-ed Reserve Merlot (Napa Valley). As rich

as Jarvis’s regular 2010 Merlot is, the Reserve is even bigger. It is, in a word, massive, offering a nuclear deto-nation of cherries, currants and mocha, even something sweetly meaty, like the charred fat on steak. At this ten-der age, it lacks subtlety. But it’s a complex, tannic wine that should develop well in the cellar. Give it 6–7 years. Cellar Selection. —S.H. abv: 14.8% Price: $140

93 Joseph Phelps 2011 Freestone Vine-yards Estate Grown Pinot Noir (Sonoma

Coast). The parts haven’t fully come together yet in this ageable wine. It has mouthwatering acidity and vastly complex flavors, ranging from ripe heirloom to-matoes, cola, pomegranates and cranberries, to ripe cherries and red currants. With flavors of oak and some hard tannins, it’s a natural for the cellar. Hold for at least six years. Cellar Selection. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $55

93 Kilikanoon 2009 Blocks Road Cabernet Sauvignon (Clare Valley). This is a dark,

chocolaty Cabernet. It’s full bodied and richly textured, with plenty of firm structure to support the layers of cas-sis, plum pudding and mocha flavors, then shows ample length to its velvety finish. Drink from 2015–2025. Old Bridge Cellars. Editors’ Choice. —J.C. abv: 14% Price: $30

93 Marimar Estate 2009 Don Miguel Vine-yard Dobles Lias Unfiltered Chardon-

nay (Russian River Valley). Marimar Estate held this bottling back for more than a year after their other three Chardonnays were released. The “Dobles Lias” designation refers to extended lees contact, which you can taste and feel in the palate’s exceptional creaminess. The yeasty sourness is balanced by rich oak (80% new) and tons of ripe apple, pear and tropical fruit flavors. Very complex and satisfying, and will age for a few years. Drink now–2015. —S.H. abv: 14.2% Price: $45

93 Marimar Estate 2009 Don Miguel Vine-yard Earthquake Block Unfiltered Pinot

Noir (Russian River Valley). This is an ageable ’09 Pinot from Marimar. With firm tannins, a burst of cit-rusy acidity and a great concentration of cherry and cur-rant fruit, it’s an obvious cellar candidate. Shows the consistent elegance and deft touch of Marimar’s Pinot Noirs. Cellar Selection. —S.H. abv: 14.9% Price: $47

93 William Church 2010 Gamache Vine-yards Malbec (Columbia Valley). The best

bottle in a strong 2010 William Church lineup, this pure, single-vineyard Malbec is flat-out lovely. Deep purple fruits—plums and cherries—meet silky tannins and just the right touch of French oak, a mix of new, once used and neutral. Young, compact and dense, it should reward up to a decade of cellaring. Cellar Se-lection. —P.G. abv: 14.8% Price: $34

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92 Barkan 2010 Reichan Assemblage (Galil). Dense and dark, this heady red is a blend of

67% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot and 13% Syrah. Powerful aromas and flavors of wild blackberry, cassis, cigar-box spice and licorice root abound on the nose and in the mouth, and carry on through the long finish. The structure is firm and gripping, but perfectly matched to the intense fruit flavors. This wine is balanced and at-tractive now, but greater nuance and complexity should develop with time; try from 2016–2020. Kosher. Royal Wine Corporation. Editors’ Choice. —L.B. abv: 13.5% Price: $35

92 Bella 2010 Block 10 Zinfandel (Russian River Valley). Bella’s only 2010 Zinfandel

from the Russian River Valley is high in alcohol, but manages somehow to maintain balance. It’s softly tan-nic and incredibly rich in chocolate, mulberry jam, cas-sis liqueur, prune and peppery-spice flavors. Delicious, but heady. —S.H. abv: 15.7% Price: $45

92 Chateau Ste. Michelle 2011 Cold Creek Vineyard Chardonnay (Columbia Val-

ley). One of the best Chardonnays from this vineyard to date, a function of this warm site being able to ripen the grapes in this cool vintage. Racy and tight, it’s a sleek melding of citrus rind and flesh, apple and mineral-in-flected acid. Excellent concentration and detail through the finish. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 14.5% Price: $25

92 Chateau Ste. Michelle 2012 Cold Creek Vineyard Riesling (Columbia Valley).

Despite a price bump from $15 to $18, this remains a superb value. In a portfolio loaded with excellent Rieslings —Ste. Michelle remains the largest Riesling producer in the world—this wine consistently offers the most structure and detail. A perfect balance between sugar (19.8 g/L) and acid is the foundation. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 12.5% Price: $18

92 D’Arenberg 2009 The Coppermine Road Cabernet Sauvignon (McLaren Vale).

D’Arenberg’s The Coppermine Road is always struc-tured—sometimes to excess—but the 2009 vintage seems to have the requisite flesh to age successfully. Cedar, chocolate and cassis notes surround a firm core of dusty tannins. Drink from 2015–2025, and possibly beyond. Old Bridge Cellars. Cellar Selection. —J.C. abv: 14.5% Price: $65

92 D’Arenberg 2009 The Dead Arm Shiraz (McLaren Vale). As always, d’Arenberg’s top

Shiraz isn’t all cuddles and charm. It’s rather firm in tex-ture, with rugged tannins that impart a dusty edge to the lengthy finish. But this vintage the fruit comes through clearer than it has sometimes in the past, bringing bright berry notes that marry well with hints of camp-fire smoke and grilled meat. Try a bottle after 2016. Old Bridge Cellars. Cellar Selection. —J.C. abv: 14.5% Price: $65

92 EnRoute 2011 Les Pommiers Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). The grapes come

primarily from the Green Valley and Upper Middle Reach areas of the Russian River Valley, and you can detect the cool climate in the wine’s light, silky texture, mouthwatering acidity and just-ripe flavors of cherry, rhubarb and persimmon. Elegant and savory, it’s deli-cious now, but will reward 5–6 years in the cellar. Cel-lar Selection. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $65

92 Fess Parker 2010 Rodney’s Vineyard Syr-ah (Santa Barbara County). This is an excel-

lent Syrah, but you’ll want to cellar it because it shows great aging potential. It’s rich and dense in blackberry jam and cassis flavors, with mocha and bacon notes that add to the complexity. The tannins are profound, but fine; give it at least six years. Cellar Selection. —S.H. abv: 14.9% Price: $49

92 Iron Horse 2011 Native Yeast Chardon-nay (Green Valley). This is among the dri-

est Chardonnays Iron Horse has produced. It is elegant in style, with brisk acidity and notes of metal or stones. The wine did not undergo malolactic fermentation. What fruit there is suggests kiwis and limes. Drink it over the next six years, and not too cold. —S.H. abv: 13.4% Price: $48


BUYINGGUIDE

92 Iron Horse 2011 Rued Clone Chardon-nay (Green Valley). An excellent Chardon-

nay, exhibiting cool-climate acidity and minerality. It’s modest in alcohol, but also shows luxurious complex-ity. The flavors are intense, with orange essence, honey and nectarines, brightened by a squeeze of lime acidity. Very fine and complex; for drinking over the next few years. —S.H. abv: 12.9% Price: $48

92 Jarvis 2010 Estate Grown Cave Ferment-ed Merlot (Napa Valley). A tremendous

wine, this is characteristic Merlot, with its soft tannins and fleshy, appealing mouthfeel. There’s an intense core of cherry pie filling, red currants and heady cherry li-queur. Yet the alcohol is moderate, giving the wine an elegant, supple feeling. It’s delicious and easy to drink now, but try giving it 4–5 years in the cellar to let it be-gin to mature. Cellar Selection. —S.H. abv: 14.2% Price: $95

92 MacPhail 2011 The Flyer Pinot Noir (Rus-sian River Valley). There’s a lot of zippy acid-

ity and even some firm tannins in this vibrant young Pi-not. The cherries, pomegranates and cola punch right through, like a fist through paper. Its wonderfully dry and light in texture, with balanced alcohol. While it shows plenty of new oak, the wood doesn’t dominate, as it did in 2010. Nice now, and it should age for eight or so years. —S.H. abv: 14.1% Price: $59

92 Matetic 2010 Corralillo Winemaker’s Blend (San Antonio). Blackberry, cassis and

earthy accents define the bouquet on this blend of Syr-ah, Malbec and Cabernet Franc. The palate is as solid as a boulder, but not overtly hard. Prune, berry, toast and cocoa flavors set up an elegant, rich and round finish with nice residual flavors and mouthfeel. Drink now–2016. Quintessential Wines. Editors’ Choice. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $30

92 Peter Lehmann 2009 Stonewell Shiraz (Barossa). Lehmann’s 2009 may not be its

best or longest lived Stonewell, but it’s a luscious ex-ample nonetheless. It’s round and creamy in the mouth, with no hard edges, and easy-to-appreciate flavors of black cherries, plums, toasty oak and menthol. Drink now–2020. Hess Family Wine Estates. —J.C. abv: 14.5% Price: $95

92 Silver Trident 2010 Benevolent Dicta-tor Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). At

first sip, this wine exhibits clean and pure Pinot fruit, expressive of a cool-climate origin. The silkiness and tartness, and the subtle notes of pomegranate, rhubarb, ripe heirloom tomato and oak are delicious. The wine’s complexity lends itself well to developing bottle nuanc-es over the next 6–10 years. Cellar Selection. —S.H. abv: 14.1% Price: $55

91 Barkan 2010 Eitan Assemblage (Judean Hills). This is a dark, dense blend of 52% Syr-

ah, 30% Merlot and 18% Cabernet Sauvignon. Aromas of cassis, blackberry and plum lead on the bouquet, with background accents of tree bark and forest floor. The firm structure and gripping tannins are softened by ripe black-fruit flavors that carry through to the lin-gering finish. Balanced but young, this should develop greater complexity and nuance with time; drink 2016–2020. Kosher. Royal Wine Corporation. Cellar Selec-tion. —L.B. abv: 13.5% Price: $35

91 Chateau Ste. Michelle 2011 Ethos Re-serve Chardonnay (Columbia Valley). The

Ethos bottling is the reserve-level Chardonnay for Ste. Michelle, generally done in a style that shows ripe, trop-ical fruit and plenty of buttery, toasty oak flavors. It’s a popular style, emphasizing flavors of banana, peach, pa-paya and vanilla custard. —P.G. abv: 14.5% Price: $30

91 Frankland Estate 2009 Olmo’s Reward (Frankland River). This is more Cabernet

Franc than anything else, but includes some Merlot, Malbec and Cabernet Sauvignon in the blend. One of the region’s signature reds, the 2009 offers cherry and cranberry fruit alongside hints of cigar box. It’s soft enough to be approachable now, yet remains stuffed with tannin. Try after 2015. Quintessential Wines. Cel-lar Selection. —J.C. abv: 14% Price: $55

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91 Gary Farrell 2012 Russian River Selection Rosé of Pinot Noir (Russian River Val-

ley). Although pricey for a rosé, this shows wonderful complexity. The grapes come from two well-regarded vineyards, and the wine shows an elegant structure, with crisp acids and a dusting of tannins. It tastes of rose petals, herb tea, raspberries and nectarines. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. abv: 13.4% Price: $28

91 Henry’s Drive Vignerons 2010 Pillar Box Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon (Padtha-

way). This shows much more refined tannins than the 2009 vintage of this wine. Lively cassis fruit is cush-ioned by toasty, cedary oak and vanilla shadings, while the overall feel is lush and velvety, particularly on the long, supple finish. Quintessential Wines. Editors’ Choice. —J.C. abv: 14.5% Price: $21

91 Iron Horse 2011 Estate Chardonnay (Green Valley). Iron Horse’s 2011 Chardon-

nays are all fine in their own ways, but this Estate bot-tling seems to combine many of their best qualities in a single wine. With ripe orange, pear, apple and smoky oak flavors accented by brisk acidity, it shows the Iron Horse signature of elegant balance. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $28

91 Jarvis 2008 Estate Grown Cave Ferment-ed Cabernet Franc (Napa Valley). Jarvis

has tinkered with its Cabernet Franc over the years, and with good results. Today, its Cabernet Franc is among the state’s best. Made from 100% Cabernet Franc, it’s rich, full bodied and luscious, with notes of sun-ripened cherries. Could pick up some bottle nuance over the next 4–5 years. —S.H. abv: 14.8% Price: $95

91 Kingston Family 2012 Cariblanco Sau-vignon Blanc (Casablanca Valley).

This small-production Sauvignon Blanc (700 cases) overdelivers on its price by a factor of two or three times. It gets going with crisp, crystalline aromas of pas-sion fruit and briny grapefruit. A pure, juicy, ripped pal-ate offers lime, grapefruit, tangerine and herb flavors, while the finish is minerally and clean. Kingston Family Vineyards. Editors’ Choice. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $16

91 Marimar Estate 2009 Don Miguel Vine-yard Unfiltered Syrah-Tempranillo (Rus-

sian River Valley). A very interesting wine, this is bone dry, complex and smoothly tannic. The cherry, blueberry and red licorice flavors mingle with charred meat and oak notes that change constantly in the glass. Tempranillo’s acidity gives it all a nice tart bite. Drink now. —S.H. abv: 14.1% Price: $45

91 Prunotto 2009 Bussia (Barolo). This single- vineyard Barolo shows ripe berry aromas

and whiffs of incense and espresso. The palate shows almost overripe cherry fruit, layered with herbs, coffee and underbrush notes. It has big but ripe tannins and is fast approaching optimum drinkability. Enjoy it over the next few years. Ste. Michelle Wine Estates. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $82

91 Robert Oatley 2012 Riesling (Great Southern). This is a bit rounder and rich-

er than many Australian Rieslings, with pronounced weight and rich texture on the palate. Instead of lime, it delivers orange blossom and orange sherbet notes that linger elegantly on the finish. Drink now–2020. Robert Oatley Vineyards Inc. Editors’ Choice. —J.C. abv: 12.5% Price: $17

91 Salvestrin 2009 Salvestrin Estate Vine-yard Cabernet Sauvignon (St. Helena).

This is a huge, extracted Cabernet Sauvignon. It’s just what people expect Napa Cabernet to be: ripe, heady, oaky and bold. With deep, classy cassis, plum and choc-olate flavors, it should develop additional nuances after 2017. Cellar Selection. —S.H. abv: 14.8% Price: $60

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BUYINGGUIDE

90 B Side 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). This offers everything you want in a

Napa Cabernet, and at a decent price. It’s dry, balanced in acidity and tannins, and elegantly constructed, with classic blackberry and cassis liqueur flavors touched by oak. Not an ager, and doesn’t pretend to be; just a nice wine to drink now. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $25

90 Baileyana 2010 Grand Firepeak Cuvée Firepeak Vineyard Estate Grown Char-

donnay (Edna Valley). This shows the bright acid-ity and pure fruit of Edna Valley, with laser-like orange, pineapple and mango fruit, touched with honey, butter and smoky oak. Very pure and focused, it’s a distinctive wine that smacks of its terroir. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $28

90 Chateau Ste. Michelle 2011 Indian Wells Chardonnay (Columbia Valley). The 2011

vintage is a high-water mark for the Indian Wells Char-donnay, principally because the oaky, buttered popcorn flavors have been muted. It’s a firm, slightly tart mix of green and yellow fruits, with supporting acids and excel-lent length. Pleasantly toasty, but not over the top. Edi-tors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $17

90 Double Canyon 2010 Cabernet Sauvi-gnon (Horse Heaven Hills). Like many

wines from the cool 2010 vintage in Washington, this one takes a considerable amount of time to get going. Once it does, you’ll know it was worth the wait. The first release from this winery, it boasts a complex medley of herbs, cherries, olives and dusty earth. It’s rounded and supple, with tart acidity. The oak (35% new French) is dialed back, to allow the fruit to shine through. —S.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $40

90 Dunham 2011 Three Legged Red (Co-lumbia Valley). The ever-popular Three

Legged Red keeps the quality high in this new vintage. Tart raspberry fruit fills the mouth, with good concen-tration and some snap to the finish. This is simply de-licious, and ready for warm weather sipping. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 13.8% Price: $19

90 Fess Parker 2011 Syrah (Santa Barba-ra County). The cool-climate origins of this

wine are revealed immediately in the freshly crushed black and white pepper aromas. In the mouth, it’s ex-traordinarily rich in blackberry jam and cassis, with the chocolaty, roasted meat notes that frequently character-ize a good Syrah. Although it’s pretty tannic, it’s appeal-ing now, and should develop for 4–5 more years. Edi-tors’ Choice. —S.H. abv: 14.9% Price: $28

90 Gallo Signature Series 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). The signature on

the bottle is Gina Gallo’s, and what a lovely Cabernet this is. It’s rich, brimming with black currants, cocoa and oak, and the tannins are as smooth as velvet. Tastes so delicious now, there’s no reason not to drink it up. —S.H. abv: 14.8% Price: $40

90 Hanzell 2010 Sessions Vineyard Pinot Noir (Sonoma Valley). This wine is very

young and needs time to come together. Currently, it’s all about tart acidity and fresh, penetrating Dr. Pepper, cherry, pomegranate and oak flavors. It’s elegant and complex, with the potential to develop for 6–8 years, maybe longer. Cellar Selection. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $95

90 Hope Estate 2010 The Ripper Shiraz (Geo graphe). Made in a superripe, dense, al-

most fudge-like style, The Ripper tastes like a plummy, chocolaty Christmas cake with slightly coarse tannins on the finish. It’s Port-like in flavor, but without the heat from elevated alcohol. Drink it over the next few years. Winesellers Ltd. —J.C. abv: 14% Price: $20

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90 Iron Horse 2011 Unoaked Chardonnay (Green Valley). Ripe, flashy fruit stars in this

unoaked Chardonnay, in the form of pineapples, kiwis, limes and pears. The grapes for this delicious wine come from the winery’s estate vineyard, in the cool southwest-ern pocket of the Russian River Valley. —S.H. abv: 12.8% Price: $27

90 Marimar Estate 2011 Don Miguel Vine-yard Acero Unoaked Chardonnay (Rus-

sian River Valley). The chilly vintage has yielded tart, green gooseberry and green tea flavors, which run like a nerve through riper orange and mango notes. It’s clean and elegant now. —S.H. abv: NA Price: $29

90 Prunotto 2009 Barolo. Prunotto’s straight Barolo shows juicy, ripe cherry, white pepper

and balsamic sensations, and just a hint of espresso. It’s nicely balanced, although there’s not a ton of complex-ity. Enjoy it now and over the next few years. Ste. Mi-chelle Wine Estates. —K.O. abv: 13.5% Price: $48

90 Prunotto 2010 Bric Turot (Barbaresco). This shows ripe cherry aromas and hints of

roasted coffee bean and underbrush. The palate is still a bit closed, but offers ripe cherry flavors, hints of orange peel, anisette and a coffee note. This is still young and tightly tannic, but should evolve nicely. Ste. Michelle Wine Estates. —K.O. abv: 13.5% Price: $65

90 Reaper 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon (Chalk Hill). This is a big, rich Cabernet whose power-

ful fruit stars. Blackberries, cherries, plums, cassis, co-coa and oak flavors flood the palate, dazzling despite the firm tannins. This holds its own with more expensive Cabernets from Napa Valley, and should develop well over the next 5–6 years. Cellar Selection. —S.H. abv: 14.2% Price: $35

90 Robert Oatley 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon (Margaret River). A sculpted, refined expre-

sion of Cabernet Sauvignon, Oatley’s 2010 combines hints of mint and dark berries into a wine that offers clean, pure fruit, subtle oak shadings and a long, silky finish. Drink now–2020. Robert Oatley Vineyards Inc. Editors’ Choice. —J.C. abv: 14% Price: $20

89 Angeline 2012 Sauvignon Blanc (Rus-sian River Valley). Angeline has a track re-

cord for producing savory, delicious Sauvignon Blanc at an inexpensive price. The wine is dry, but rich in hon-ey, papaya and gooseberry flavors, brightened by brisk acidity. —S.H. abv: 13.9% Price: $15

88 MacMurray Ranch 2011 Chardonnay (Russian River Valley). This is a fun Char-

donnay to drink. It tastes of honey, tropical fruit and or-ange flavors, with the buttered toast and vanilla of oak barrels. It also has an interesting minerality. Gets better as it warms in the glass, so don’t drink it too cold. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $20

87 Chime 2012 Chardonnay (Oakville). Not the richest Chardonnay ever, but it has com-

plex notes of citrus, apple, nectarine and tropical fruits, with kisses of vanilla and cream. Acidity gives it elegant brightness. —S.H. abv: 13.9% Price: $19


BUYINGGUIDE

86 Markus Huber NV Hugo Rosé Sparkling (Osterreichischer Sekt). This is a soft,

creamy, strawberry- and caramel-flavored wine with lively acidity and a very crisp, citrusy aftertaste. It’s an ideal apéritif-style wine, perfect for the summer. Circo Vino. —R.V. abv: 11.5% Price: $15

86 Martin & Weyrich 2011 Allegro Mosca-to (California). This straddles the border

between an off-dry table wine and a dessert wine. It’s crisp in acidity, with candied orange, golden apricot and honey flavors. You could certainly drink it with cookies and fruits, but it’s just dry enough to stand up to squash baked with brown sugar, and a piece of grilled chicken. —S.H. abv: 8.5% Price: $12

85 Martin & Weyrich 2011 Pink Allegro Moscato (California). Hews to the sweet

Moscato style, with raspberry, orange, vanilla and white sugar flavors. It’s an easy picnic wine for warm after-noons, especially with semisweet fruits, ham or light pastries. —S.H. abv: 8% Price: $12

SPIRITS

95 Boulard X.O. Calvados (France; Palm Bay Inter-

national, Boca Raton, FL). Pow-erful and voluptuous, this topaz-hued beauty features warm vanilla, cinna-mon and concentrated fruit. Full bod-ied and weighty on the tongue, the long, spicy finish may remind some of mulled apple cider—except this is the real deal. Made with a blend of Calva-dos aged from 8–40 years.abv: 40% Price: $90

92 Boulard Grand Solage V.S.O.P. Calvados (France;

Palm Bay International, Boca Raton, FL). Made from as many as 120 different apple varieties, this burnished amber Calvados has a rich-ness reminiscent of fine Cognac or Armagnac. The complex layers un-fold to deliver vanilla, honey, almond, baked apple and dried apricot. The V.S.O.P. blends 4- and 10-year-old Calvados.abv: 40% Price: $50

90 White Pike Whiskey (USA; Finger Lakes Dis-

tilling, New York, NY). This unaged whiskey has a malty, slightly raw aroma. Although it’s predictably hot at first, it fades into a pleasantly fruity finish. Most moonshines go the other way, with flavor fading into heat. This is a nice change. Recommended for cocktail use, especially for bloody marys.abv: 40% Price: $33

BEST BUYS

91 Barnard Griffin 2012 Riesling (Colum-bia Valley). Gorgeous aromas of peach, pear,

flower and spice highlight this wine right from the start. There is an exotic, floral flavor running alongside the tree fruits, and suggestions of mint and rosewater. Ex-cellent length and balance, with just a hint of sweetness. Best Buy. —P.G. abv: 11.8% Price: $10

90 Barnard Griffin 2012 Rosé of Sangiovese (Columbia Valley). A perennial best-of-show

winner, this lush take on rosé bursts with pretty cherry fruit, light touches of brioche and fresh-baked rolls. It finishes with a kiss of spice. Best Buy. —P.G. abv: 12.6% Price: $12

90 Chateau Ste. Michelle 2012 Harvest Se-lect Sweet Riesling (Columbia Valley).

This is an excellent Harvest Select bottling, with bright, sappy flavors that seem not all that sweet. The residual sugar, listed at 47 g/L, is an asset, but doesn’t domi-nate. Flavors remain as crisp as a fresh Macintosh apple, juicy, forward and delicious. Best Buy. —P.G. abv: 10.5% Price: $10

WineMag.com | 11

BEST BUYS

90 Chateau Ste. Michelle 2012 Sauvignon Blanc (Columbia Valley). With 12% Sémil-

lon in the blend, this is a lovely, fresh, almost exuber-ant Sauvignon Blanc. Bracing and textural, with good varietal character but no excessive herbaceousness, it’s loaded with fruit flavors of melon, grapefruit, kiwi and apple. A fine mix of precision and length. Best Buy. —P.G. abv: 13% Price: $11

90 Julia’s Dazzle 2012 Pinot Grigio Rosé (Horse

Heaven Hills). Brief skin contact during fermentation gives this appropriately named, single-vineyard (The Benches) rosé it’s pretty pale-salmon color. It’s immediately appealing, with notes of melon and strawberry, and just a hair off-dry, with a rich, textured feel. Best Buy. —S.S. abv: 13.7% Price: $15

90 Pecchenino 2012 San Luigi (Dogliani). This lovely Dolcetto is delicious, fresh and ut-

terly drinkable. It has a classic fragrance of strawberry, cherry and licorice, all of which carry over to the palate, along with earthy notes and a hint of almond. Made to be enjoyed young, this pairs perfectly with pasta dishes and pizza. Vias Imports. Best Buy. —K.O. abv: 13.5% Price: $13

BEST BUYS

88 Miles From Nowhere 2011 Shiraz (Marga-ret River). With its herb and green olive aro-

mas, this is not a typical value-priced Australian Shiraz. It’s surprisingly complex, adding just enough red berry fruit into the mix while staying on the savory, herbal side of the tracks. The tannins are supple, fading into an ashy touch on the finish. Drink now and over the next few years. International Vines, Inc. Best Buy. —J.C. abv: 14.5% Price: $13

88 Sobon Estate 2011 Old Vines Zinfandel (Amador County). Sobon’s Old Vines Zinfan-

del is seamless in bright red fruit and soft tannins, with a tempered spiciness on the finish. A great value and go-to wine for a crowd, this is ideal to stock up on for outdoor gatherings, or just to get through the winter. Best Buy. —V.B. abv: 14.9% Price: $13

85 Happy Camper 2012 Chardonnay (Cali-fornia). Sour lemon and lime Lifesaver-candy

flavors mark this tart wine. It’s not very Chardonnay-esque, but it’s a fine wine in its own right, and the price makes it a bargain. Best Buy. —S.H. abv: 13% Price: $9

BEST BUYS

85 Kirkland Signature 2011 Merlot (Colum-bia Valley). Fruity, with plum flavors soaked

in a good dose of vanilla, this is an easygoing wine for casual entertaining or everyday use. The blend includes 8% Syrah. Best Buy. —P.G. abv: 14.5% Price: $9

84 Woodbridge by Robert Mondavi 2012 Sauvignon Blanc (California). A bit coarse

in texture, with delicate flavors of candied lemon and pink grapefruit. No oak, but sur lie aging gives it a nice creaminess. Best Buy. —S.H. abv: 12.5% Price: $8

CORRECTIONS

On page 114 of the July 2013 issue, the importer for Terras Gauda was incorrectly listed as Gregory White PR. The correct importer is Aveniù Brands, Inc.

On page 116 of the July 2013 issue, the following review was cut off:

89 Legaris 2009 Crianza (Ribera del Due-ro). Exotic blueberry and fir tree aromas set up

a jammy palate with soft tannins and flavors of black-berry, dark cherry, toast and a hint of burnt beef. Wide-spread tannins cause the finish to feel mellow and not that pointed. This is a very good Spanish wine that’s not too complex. Drink through 2018. Aveniù Brands, Inc. —M.S. abv: 14.1% Price: $36


BUYINGGUIDEcontribute to its medium bodied, viscous feel before leading to a tart, somewhat thin finish. —S.S. abv: 10% Price: $10

85 Radius 2011 Chardonnay (Washington). This is a moderately aromatic wine with notes of

toast, spice and caraway seed. It’s medium bodied and on the sweeter side of off-dry with tart citrus flavors. Best Buy. —S.S. abv: 13% Price: $9

84 Pine & Post 2010 Chardonnay (Washing-ton). There’s a distinct floral streak to this light-

ly aromatic Chardonnay, which also has notes of apple and spice. Though it has 61 g/L residual sugar, it drinks dry with bitter notes on the finish. Best Buy. —S.S. abv: 13% Price: $7

VIOGNIER

92 àMaurice 2011 Viognier (Columbia Val-ley). Here is a smooth and supple Viognier,

with a dynamic mix of citrus and tropical fruits. It’s well-proportioned, and the phenolic edge to the skin flavors gives nice structure to the finish. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 14.4% Price: $25

92 Mark Ryan 2011 Viognier (Columbia Val-ley). Here’s the latest in a long line of smooth,

silky, fruit-laden Viogniers from Mark Ryan. Citrus and lemongrass roll into fleshier flavors of tree fruits. One month in neutral oak rounds out the mouthfeel, and the mix of vineyards—Ciel du Cheval, Red Willow and Ol-sen—is terrific. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 14.2% Price: $30

90 William Church 2012 Viognier (Yakima Valley). Viognier remains a strong suit for Wil-

liam Church, and part of the consistency is the vineyard sourcing each vintage from Conner Lee and Gamache, in roughly equal proportions. Lemon and lime, peaches and apricots rule the palate, ripe but neither hot nor bit-ter. There’s a good long finish as well, but it’s the fruit that really shines. —P.G. abv: 14.2% Price: $23

PINOT GRIS/GRIGIO

90 Convergence Zone Cellars 2012 Ciel du Cheval Vineyard Drizzle Pinot Gris (Red

Mountain). Certainly among the most unusual wines from this vineyard, here is a Pinot Gris with 30 g/L re-sidual sugar and alcohol under 11%. There is sufficient acidity—along with the minerality that the vineyard is known for—to keep the flavors of citrus rind and flesh well rounded and buoyant. Sweet enough to pair with a fruity dessert. —P.G. abv: 10.7% Price: $19

88 Barnard Griffin 2012 Pinot Gris (Colum-bia Valley). There’s plenty of fresh, ripe tree

fruit goodness here, along with citrus streaks of lemon,

lime and grapefruit. The acidity is what gives the wine its lift and verve. Best Buy. —P.G. abv: 12.8% Price: $12

87 Wind Rose 2012 Pinot Grigio (Yakima Valley). This is 100% varietal, with light citrus

fruit flavors along with sliced pear. The wine is a bit of a featherweight; even the label describes it as “lemon chiffon,” which is entirely accurate. —P.G. abv: 13.2% Price: $15

87 Castillo De Feliciana 2012 Vino Verano Pinot Gris (Columbia Valley). This is 100%

Pinot Gris, given 20 hours of skin contact, resulting in a “Gris de Gris” style of blush wine. It’s light and dry, with strong scents and flavors of grapefruit. —P.G. abv: 13.8% Price: $16

87 Ross Andrew 2011 Celilo Vineyard Pi-not Gris (Columbia Gorge). Coming mostly

from 1975 plantings of Pinot Gris at Celilo Vineyard, it’s light and lively with notes of apple and pear. Though it has just over 2 g/L of residual sugar, it drinks bone dry—it’s almost austere—with Celilo’s steely acidity. —S.S. abv: 12.7% Price: $20

87 Summit Estates 2012 Pinot Gris (Colum-bia Valley). An appealing, medium sweet Pi-

not Gris with notes of red apple and spice with a medi-um-bodied, oily feel. Best Buy. —S.S. abv: 13.3% Price: $9

SAUVIGNON BLANC

92 Woodinville Wine Cellars 2012 Sauvi-gnon Blanc (Columbia Valley). A terrific

wine, with a crisp, clean, classic nose of pure, crystalline Sauvignon Blanc. Done in all stainless, sourced from Artz (Red Mountain) and Stillwater Creek (Ancient Lakes), this riot of melon, citrus, apple and sweet hay is just about perfect, with lovely natural acidity. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 14% Price: $18

90 Barons V 2012 Sauvignon Blanc (Colum-bia Valley). Matthew Loso makes excellent

Sauvignon Blanc, and this is no exception. Smooth, lush and creamy, it’s bursting with concentrated fruit flavors of apple, peach and papaya—definitely not a grassy style by any measure. Everything points to barrel fermenta-tion, including the lick of fresh cream in the finish. Edi-tors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 13.7% Price: $18

90 Chateau Ste. Michelle 2012 Sauvignon Blanc (Columbia Valley). For full review see

page 11. Best Buy. abv: 13% Price: $11

88 DiStefano 2012 Sauvignon Blanc (Co-lumbia Valley). Consistent with past vintag-

es, this tart, grassy and spicy effort features green ap-ple fruit dusted with white pepper. There’s a trace of

grain in the aroma and in the finishing flavor as well. The blend includes 9% Sémillon. —P.G. abv: 14% Price: $19

86 Waterbrook 2012 Sauvignon Blanc (Co-lumbia Valley). The citrus and herb notes

seem a bit muddled here but it still offers enjoyment for the price. It’s a touch off dry to balance the sharp-edged acid. Best Buy. —S.S. abv: 13.7% Price: $11

85 Magnificent Wine Company 2012 Fish House Sauvignon Blanc (Columbia Val-

ley). Straight down the middle, this 100% varietal wine brings notes of citrus and herbs. It has a touch of resid-ual sugar and tingles the palate with broad fruit flavors. Best Buy. —S.S. abv: 13% Price: $10

RIESLING

94 Dunham 2011 Lewis Estate Vineyard Riesling (Columbia Valley). For full review

see page 3. Editors’ Choice. abv: 12.5% Price: $20

92 Chateau Ste. Michelle 2012 Cold Creek Vineyard Riesling (Columbia Valley). For

full review see page 5. Editors’ Choice. abv: 12.5% Price: $18

92 Convergence Zone Cellars 2012 Bac-chus Vineyard Dewpoint Riesling (Co-

lumbia Valley). By far the best Dewpoint to date, this tastes bone dry, yet it’s succulent, concentrated, and lightly honeyed. The deep flavors of ripe Meyer lem-on and citrus just keep on going and going. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 12.3% Price: $17

91 Barnard Griffin 2012 Riesling (Columbia Valley). For full review see page 10. Best Buy.

—P.G. abv: 11.8% Price: $10

91 Gamache Vintners 2012 Riesling (Colum-bia Valley). This new Riesling from Gamache

has almost 20 g/L of residual sugar, yet keeps its fresh-ness and appealing acidity. It’s undeniably a fruit bomb, with ripe flavors of tree fruit and tropical fruit, espe-cially peaches and papayas. Drink it chilled. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 11.6% Price: $18

90 Chateau Ste. Michelle 2012 Harvest Se-lect Sweet Riesling (Columbia Valley).

For full review see page 10. Best Buy. abv: 10.5% Price: $10

89 Obelisco Estate 2012 Riesling (Columbia Valley). Spicy and floral, with super concentra-

tion, this fruit bomb of a wine is 100% Riesling, though the aromatics have the rose petal, soapy character of some Washington Gewürztraminers. The depth and in-tensity of the fruit are remarkable, but may make this a

WineMag.com | 13

challenge to match with food, even spicy Asian noodle dishes. —P.G. abv: 11.6% Price: $22

88 Chateau Ste. Michelle 2012 Riesling (Co-lumbia Valley). With residual sugar measuring

17 g/L, this puts the emphasis on fruit flavors that are forward, round, ripe and slightly sweet. It’s right down the heart of the plate in terms of Washington styles; ap-ple and peach the main flavors. Best Buy. —P.G. abv: 12.5% Price: $10

88 Chateau Ste. Michelle 2012 Dry Riesling (Columbia Valley). Labeled dry, this none-

theless carries a hint of sweetness, at 70 g/L residual sugar. It’s fruity and fresh, with melon, citrus and peach prominent. A perfect summer sipping wine. Best Buy. —P.G. abv: 13% Price: $10

87 AntoLin Cellars 2011 Estate Riesling (Ya-kima Valley). There is a creamy, leesy mouth-

feel to this estate-grown Riesling, whose residual sugar is masked with acidity. Tart apple and pear fruit flavors finish with lighter notes of candied orange and citrus. —P.G. abv: 11.3% Price: $14

87 Cor Cellars 2012 Underwood Mountain Riesling (Columbia Gorge). A lightly aro-

matic offering of Riesling with notes of mineral, lem-on, and peach. Despite the residual sugar (13.3 g/L), it drinks dry with Underwood’s bright acidity shining through. —S.S. abv: 10.3% Price: $22

84 Summit Estates 2012 Riesling (Columbia Valley). A lime-centric wine that also has notes

of white peach. It’s medium sweet with the sugar getting out in front of the acid. —S.S. abv: 11% Price: $9

WHITE BLENDS

90 Cor Cellars 2012 Alba Celilo Vineyard Pinot Gris-Gewürztraminer (Columbia

Gorge). A blend of Pinot Gris and Gewürztraminer, it’s vibrantly aromatic with notes of spice, white grapefruit, and lychee. The concrete tank aging provides a sense of freshness while Celilo Vineyard’s electric acidity beauti-fully balances out the residual sugar (16.3 g/L). —S.S. abv: 12.4% Price: $20

90 Kontos Cellars 2012 Gossamer White (Columbia Valley). This blend of Chardon-

nay, Viognier, Roussanne and Orange Muscat shows extra ripeness in 2012, reflected in both the higher al-cohol and the noticeable sweetness. It’s fragrant and ex-pressive, with sweet orange peel and candied grapefruit dominating, along with slices of pineapple and apricot. The sweetness makes it a bit of a challenge with food. —P.G. abv: 14.1% Price: $25

88 Cairdeas 2012 Reserve Nellie Mae (Co-lumbia Valley). This is a barrel-fermented

version of the regular Nellie Mae, a Viognier/Roussanne blend. It shows a broader mouthfeel, a bit more concen-tration, and yellow fruit flavors that run into the banana/light tropical range. —P.G. abv: 13.3% Price: $24

87 Cairdeas 2012 Nellie Mae (Columbia Valley). This blend of 60% Viognier and 40%

Roussanne opens with a pretty nose, that carries whiffs of honeysuckle and beeswax. The flavors follow, with a hint of lemon polish in the finish. —P.G. abv: 13% Price: $19

85 Cairdeas 2011 Nellie Mae (Columbia Val-ley). This is a Viognier/Roussanne blend, with

a hint of beeswax in the nose, and light flavors of celery and citrus rind. Pleasant but quick to fade. —P.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $19

OTHER WHITE WINES

92 L’Ecole No. 41 2012 Chenin Blanc (Co-lumbia Valley). Just a hint of residual sugar

provides perfect balance to this lovely Chenin Blanc, sourced from old vines in the Yakima Valley. The floral top notes invigorate the entry, and the cool climate, old vine flavors mingle seamlessly. A sea of sweet melon, citrus, pineapple and orange creates a broad and flavor-ful mid-palate, all in beautiful balance and proportion. Best Buy. —P.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $15

89 Balboa 2012 Summit View Vineyard Roussanne (Walla Walla Valley). From the

new Summit View vineyard, this tart, racy Roussanne is done in a steely style, with accents of mineral and citrus rind. Don’t look for the usual lushness of the grape; but there is plenty of flavor nonetheless. Pepper and rind, orange peel and hints of apple are nicely integrated. —P.G. abv: 14.5% Price: $30

88 Sineann 2012 Celilo Vineyard Gewurz-traminer (Columbia Gorge). Aromatically

expressive with notes of savory spice, white grapefruit, lychee, and citrus. It’s a touch off-dry and medium bod-ied, full of spice flavors. —S.S. abv: 13% Price: $18

88 Sineann 2012 Grüner Veltliner (Columbia Gorge). This first Grüner Veltliner from Sine-

ann is lightly aromatic with notes of citrus, apple, and spice. It drinks off dry with sharped edged, green apple-like acids. —S.S. abv: 12% Price: $18

86 Castillo De Feliciana 2012 Albariño (Co-lumbia Valley). In Spain, Albariño is usually

a steely, bone dry, sea-inflected white wine. Here it is made in an off-dry style, with 10 g/L residual sugar. The sweetness masks any apparent varietal specificity, resulting in a pleasant, but generic white wine. —P.G. abv: 13.2% Price: $22

86 Original House Wine 2012 Market Mosca-to (Columbia Valley). Made from Muscat

Canelli, it’s perfumed with notes of orange rind, white flowers, and pear syrup. It’s medium-plus sweet (54 g/L residual sugar), tapering toward the finish. —S.S. abv: 11.5% Price: $10

84 Summit Estates 2011 Gewürztraminer (Columbia Valley). An aromatic wine with

notes of spice, lychee and grapefruit. It’s medium sweet with the fruit flavors a bit wanting in concentration. —S.S. abv: 11.5% Price: $9

ROSÉS

90 Barnard Griffin 2012 Rosé of Sangiovese (Columbia Valley). For full review see page

10. Best Buy. abv: 12.6% Price: $12

90 Julia’s Dazzle 2012 Pinot Grigio Rosé (Horse Heaven Hills). For full review see

page 11. Best Buy. abv: 13.7% Price: $15

88 Wind Rose 2012 Rosato (Washington). One of the most unusual rosés to come out this

spring, it’s a blend of Nebbiolo, Dolcetto, Primitivo and Barbera. Deliciously spicy, it mixes a sweet raspberry core with a cinnamon-roll finish. —P.G. abv: 13.2% Price: $15

87 Ross Andrew 2012 Meadow Rosé (Co-lumbia Valley). Pale salmon in color, this

mostly Sangiovese rosé drinks dry with notes of straw-berry, bubblegum and melon. The flavor concentration isn’t all there but there’s still much to enjoy here. —S.S. abv: 12.7% Price: $15

85 Castillo De Feliciana 2012 Rosé (Colum-bia Valley). This youthful rosé spent 16 hours

on the skins, then was fermented and aged in stainless steel. It’s light and tart, best enjoyed well-chilled on a hot summer day. —P.G. abv: 14.5% Price: $18

CABERNET SAUVIGNON

94 Mark Ryan 2010 Lonely Heart Cabernet Sauvignon (Red Mountain). This is tight as

a drum on first taste, as Red Mountain Cabernet Sauvi-gnon can often be. Sourced entirely from Klipsun and Ciel du Cheval vineyards, and made in limited quanti-ties, it could be considered Mark Ryan’s reserve, though it is not labeled as such. It is built for the long term, and will require decanting if you are drinking it early. There is a core of tightly-wound cherry fruit, a strong mineral base, excellent focus and impressive length. Cellar Se-lection. —P.G. abv: 14.9% Price: $80

92 Fielding Hills 2010 RiverBend Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon (Wahluke Slope).


BUYINGGUIDEA lovely, brooding wine with barrel notes (68% new American and French) of cocoa and sweet spices min-gling with a panoply of cherry, cranberry, herbs and cur-rant. It’s subdued in feel with a pleasing lick of acid that draws the flavors out on a long, lingering finish. —S.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $42

92 Januik 2010 Champoux Vineyard Caber-net Sauvignon (Horse Heaven Hills). This

100% Cabernet Sauvignon, sourced from one of Wash-ington’s most iconic vineyards, is aromatically appealing with barrel notes of toast, chocolate, and spice alongside earth and dark cherry. It’s wound up at present with tart acids and tightly coiled tannins, showing impeccable re-straint and elegance. Cellar Selection. —S.S. abv: 14.4% Price: $55

92 L’Ecole No. 41 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon (Walla Walla Valley). L’Ecole’s Walla Wal-

la Cabernet has a soft-focus silkiness, an almost gauzy character. Behind that film is a wine tasting of wild ber-ries, Bing cherries and fresh herbs, with light streaks of coffee and moist earth. Give this one plenty of decant-ing and the scrim lifts away and reveals a firm, beauti-fully balanced and nuanced wine. —P.G. abv: 14.5% Price: $40

92 L’Ecole No. 41 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon (Columbia Valley). L’Ecole’s Columbia Val-

ley Cabernet is again 100% varietal; the blending magic comes from a mix of excellent vineyards. This is a classy, classic wine, with pinpoint structure and spot-on vari-etal character. The compact palate is packed with de-tails, and though it’s drinking well, it is clearly a wine to cellar for a while longer. Notes of clean earth, clover, herb and light chocolate add depth to a core of black cherry and cassis. Cellar Selection. —P.G. abv: 14.5% Price: $32

91 Gordon Estate 2010 Cabernet Sauvi-gnon (Columbia Valley). This is the finest

Cabernet from Gordon Estate in some time; forward and pretty, with a juicy mix of red fruits. The raspberry and cherry and currant flavors are nicely defined and deep, underscored with crisp acidity, and showing the sort of youthful concentration that suggests further cel-laring is in order. Nonetheless, it’s a wine to enjoy right away simply for its luscious, exuberant fruit. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 13.7% Price: $26

91 Januik 2010 Weinbau Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon (Wahluke Slope). This is 80%

Cabernet Sauvignon blended with 16% Merlot and 4% Cabernet Franc. It shows a nice interplay of fruit and barrel with notes of cocoa, cherry, dry chocolate and toast supported by well-integrated tannins. The mid-palate still needs some time to fully come together but when it does, it will be a beauty. —S.S. abv: 14.4% Price: $40

91 Tulpen Cellars 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon (Walla Walla Valley). Tulpen’s 2009 Caber-

net moves the fruit sources to a trio of Walla Walla vine-yards, notably Tokar and Heather Hill, to good effect. It’s pure varietal, and the excellent fruit sources yield a

muscular, aromatic, dense wine. Floral top notes lead into spicy, brambly black fruits. The tannins are firm and astringent, leaving just a bare suggestion of ripe rai-sins in the finish. —P.G. abv: 14.6% Price: $38

91 William Church 2010 Cabernet Sauvi-gnon (Columbia Valley). Outstanding vine-

yard sources (Dineen, Gamache and Northridge) and a deft blending touch combine here in a supple, complex and beautifully balanced Cabernet Sauvignon. There are spotlights of fresh herb and peavine mingled among the broader flavors of wild berries, all with a toasty un-derpinning from 20 months in a mix of new, once-used, and neutral French oak. Drink now or cellar for another 6–8 years. —P.G. abv: 14.5% Price: $40

90 Balboa 2009 Mith Red (Columbia Val-ley). Though labeled simply “Red”, this is pure

Cabernet Sauvignon, and blends grapes from Pepper Bridge and Candy Mountain vineyards. It has a satiny mouthfeel, with generous red fruits, licorice and hints of sweet herb. There’s a dash of white pepper in the crisp, clean finish. —P.G. abv: 14.4% Price: $45

90 Double Canyon 2010 Cabernet Sauvi-gnon (Horse Heaven Hills). For full review

see page 8. abv: 14.5% Price: $40

89 Tulpen Cellars 2009 Dryland Cabernet Sauvignon (Walla Walla Valley). This new

cuvée features grapes from both Tokar and Yellowbird vineyards, located out in the Mill Creek region east of downtown Walla Walla. It’s close enough to the Blue Mountains to allow for this experiment in dry-farmed (non-irrigated) grapes. Flavors are distinctive, showing wild berries, cola, grain and herb. —P.G. abv: 14.5% Price: $42

88 Chateau Ste. Michelle 2010 Cold Creek Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon (Colum-

bia Valley). This is 100% Cabernet Sauvignon from the Cold Creek vineyard. Smooth and fruit forward, it’s done in a seamless, accessible, ready-to-drink style that makes it difficult to put down. A fair amount of vanilla flavor comes through, accenting a consumer (and con-sumption) friendly style. —P.G. abv: 15% Price: $30

88 Northwest Collection 2010 Limited Re-lease Cabernet Sauvignon (Horse Heav-

en Hills). An appealing wine with notes of dark fruit and sweet spices. It’s broad in feel with the dry, grippy tannins the only thing holding it back. —S.S. abv: 14% Price: $25

88 O•S Winery 2009 BSH Cabernet Sauvi-gnon (Columbia Valley). This BSH is 77%

Cabernet Sauvignon, 8% Merlot, and includes 15% Cabernet Franc. It’s among the best of the recent re-leases from O•S, with the two Cabs dominating with

berry and cassis, earth and cacao. The tannins are lightly grainy and well-balanced. —P.G. abv: 14.1% Price: $30

88 Robert Ramsay 2010 McKinley Springs Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon (Horse

Heaven Hills). Labeled as Syrah but showing a South-ern Rhone influence with 6% Mourvèdre and 5% Viog-nier added to the mix, it’s über aromatic with notes of orange peel, boysenberry, black pepper and chocolate. The palate is light in style with a tacky feel to the tan-nins. —S.S. abv: 14.8% Price: $26

88 Sineann 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon (Co-lumbia Valley). Still quite young and show-

ing an herbal side to the sharply-defined red fruits, this Cabernet will need a bit more bottle age to soften the rough edges. Nonetheless, the complex weave of bark, herb, earth and wild berry is balanced and effective; just give it more time. —P.G. abv: 14.2% Price: $30

87 Apex 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon (Colum-bia Valley). 100% Cabernet Sauvignon from a

variety of vineyards across eastern Washington, it seems a bit muddled with light notes of cherry, chocolate, and oak spice but may improve with some additional time in bottle. —S.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $30

87 Balboa 2010 Estate Cabernet Sauvignon (Walla Walla Valley). From the Eidolon (for-

merly LeFore) vineyard, this lightly earthy Cabernet shows wild raspberry fruit with a streak of cassis. It’s pleasantly herbal, and finishes with green tea-flavored tannins. —P.G. abv: 14.8% Price: $34

87 Barrister 2009 Sagemoor Cabernet Sau-vignon (Columbia Valley). Sourced from

two different Sagemoor sites—Bacchus, planted in 1972; and Weinbau, planted in 1995—this pure Caber-net has a raisined, very ripe flavor that suggests it should be consumed now. There is a generous overlay of dark chocolate smoothing out the substantial tannins. —P.G. abv: 14.7% Price: $31

87 Gamache Vintners 2009 Reserve Cab-ernet Sauvignon (Columbia Valley). This

very limited reserve bottling is half Gamache vineyard, half Champoux vineyard, and 100% Cabernet. Despite the outstanding pedigree, it lacks concentration. Pretty black cherry fruit mixes with dried leaf, bark and green tea tannins. Perfectly fine, just a little light. —P.G. abv: 14.8% Price: $55

87 McKinley Springs 2010 Cabernet Sauvi-gnon (Horse Heaven Hills). With just a dol-

lop of Petit Verdot (9%), this Cabernet Sauvignon has notes of cherry, herbs and pencil lead. It’s straightfor-ward and easy drinking with plump tannins. —S.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $24

87 O•S Winery 2010 The Tusk Elephant Mountain Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon

WineMag.com | 15

(Yakima Valley). The bright cherry fruit is a bit high-toned, and the mouthfeel has a slight soapiness. Fruit flavors are full and broad, the blackberries augmented with a streak of graphite. —P.G. abv: 14.1% Price: $40

87 Ross Andrew 2010 Glaze Cabernet Sau-vignon (Columbia Valley). A well priced dai-

ly drinker with notes of coffee, olive, and cherry. It has a textured feel with enough acid and tannic structure to sew it all up into a nice package. —S.S. abv: 13.7% Price: $15

86 Barrister 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon (Co-lumbia Valley). Solidly in the big fruit, big tan-

nin, high alcohol style of past Barrister reds, this has a pruney quality that hints at almost-too-ripe fruit. The astringent, blocky tannins are somewhat mitigated by sweet baking spices from aging in 90% new French oak. —P.G. abv: 15.5% Price: $31

86 Canoe Ridge 2010 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon (Horse Heaven Hills). An ar-

omatically appealing wine with notes of cinnamon, chocolate and cherry. Unfortunately, it’s quite tart with grainy, somewhat bitter tannins. —S.S. abv: 13.9% Price: $24

86 Cor Cellars 2010 McKinley Springs Vine-yard Cabernet Sauvignon (Horse Heaven

Hills). A lightly aromatic, single vineyard offering with notes of cherry and dried herbs. It’s quite tart with mini-mal new oak influence (25% new French). —S.S. abv: 14.4% Price: $30

86 Six Prong 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon (Horse Heaven Hills). 100% Cabernet Sauvi-

gnon all coming from Alder Ridge Vineyard, it has notes of cherry and dried herbs. The tannins are dry with a cranberry filled finish. —S.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $20

86 Waterbrook 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon (Columbia Valley). Hailing from the cool

2011 vintage, this Cabernet—which includes healthy doses of Malbec and Syrah—is light in style with notes of herbs and currant. With the oak (21% new American) dialed back, it’s fresh and direct. —S.S. abv: 13.6% Price: $14

85 Barnard Griffin 2010 Cabernet Sauvi-gnon (Columbia Valley). More than a hint

of leather has bloomed in the bottle—actually in both bottles tasted. For some tasters, that’s ok; for others, it deadens the fruit flavors and the finish. In either case, best drink this up soon. —P.G. abv: 13.4% Price: $17

85 Hawks View 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon (Washington). From the Double Canyon

Vineyard, this herbal, stemmy Cabernet seems more like a Carmenère. The green and herbal character dom-inates, despite alcohol pushing near 15%. —P.G. abv: 14.9% Price: $40

85 Magnificent Wine Company 2010 Steak House Cabernet Sauvignon (Columbia

Valley). The notes of ash, cherry, and plum are faint and soft in feel but it’s well priced for the quality and delivers enough tannic heft to live up to its name. Best Buy. —S.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $10

85 O•S Winery 2010 Elephant Mountain Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon (Yakima

Valley). This was a difficult vintage, and the wine re-flects it. It feels off-balance, with astringent, chalky tan-nins, and lean, simple fruit. —P.G. abv: 14.1% Price: $40

84 Sagelands 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon (Columbia Valley). Hailing from the cool

2010 vintage, the notes of coffee, olive and cherry here are light and sweet, backed by dry, chalky tannins. —S.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $10

83 Holmes Harbor Cellars 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon (Walla Walla Valley). Sugary

and astringent, the unusual mix of flavors includes bark, brown sugar and grain. Nothing jells. —P.G. abv: 14.7% Price: $31

CABERNET FRANC

91 Fielding Hills 2010 RiverBend Vineyard Cabernet Franc (Wahluke Slope). A signa-

ture wine for this winery, it’s elegant in style with notes of cocoa, cherry, herbs and nut oil. The palate is light, soft and silky in feel with tart acids bringing the fruit fla-vors into vivid focus. —S.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $30

89 Januik 2010 Weinbau Vineyard Cabernet Franc (Wahluke Slope). A very pretty ex-

pression of Cabernet Franc with notes of cherry, choco-late and floral notes. It’s elegant in style with a textured, satiny mouthfeel and a tart, lingering finish. —S.S. abv: 14.4% Price: $35

87 DiStefano 2009 Sogno Cabernet Franc (Columbia Valley). This Sogno has a leathery

aspect, with maturing flavors of dark plum, cherry and chocolate. It’s drinking nicely right now, given a bit of extra bottle age, but the alcohol pushes the finish into the heat zone. —P.G. abv: 15% Price: $36

86 Gamache Vintners 2010 Cabernet Franc (Columbia Valley). Ripeness seems to be an

issue here; the wine has a rather flat, peppery, herbal presence, with little energy to the light red fruit flavors. It will show best with food. Two bottles tasted, same re-sults. —P.G. abv: 14.8% Price: $27

MALBEC

93 William Church 2010 Gamache Vine-yards Malbec (Columbia Valley). For full

review see page 4. Cellar Selection.abv: 14.8% Price: $34

93 Woodinville Wine Cellars 2010 LMS Mal-bec (Columbia Valley). One of the finest

Malbecs ever made in Washington, this pure varietal wine, sourced entirely from the Conner Lee Vineyard, is deeply concentrated with raspberry and loganber-ry fruit. Intense and structured for aging, it retains its clear, pure focus right on through an exceptionally long finish. Cellar Selection. —P.G. abv: 13.7% Price: $38

92 Walla Walla Vintners 2010 Sagemoor Vineyard Malbec (Columbia Valley). This

single vineyard Malbec belongs with Washington’s best. The mix of purple fruits and intense barrel flavors of clove, cocoa and dusty mocha inspires an impromptu “wow” once in the mouth. Smooth, satiny and seamless, it has a gentle hint of earth and herb threaded through the finish. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 14.3% Price: $30

90 àMaurice 2010 Gamache Vineyard Mal-bec (Columbia Valley). Single vineyard,

100% varietal Malbec can be spot on, and this succeeds with a balanced flavor profile of mixed berries and earthy tannins. There’s a hint of volatility, that quickly blows off. Decanting for an hour or so is advised. —P.G. abv: 14.4% Price: $35

89 Balboa 2010 Estate Malbec (Walla Wal-la Valley). Firm and toasty, this inviting Mal-

bec deftly mixes streaks of herb, coffee and toast, with tart— but ripe—berry flavors. It’s a good example of the finesse that is often a hallmark of Washington Malbecs. —P.G. abv: 14.4% Price: $34

89 Redd Brand NV Malbec (Yakima Valley). It’s rare to find a Washington Malbec at this

price; and this is a very good one at that. Toasty and firm upon entry, it loads the palate with black cherry and cassis, followed with generous barrel flavors of cof-fee and a finishing thread of smoke. It tastes like a wine that was intended to sell for considerably more. Edi-tors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 14.1% Price: $15

88 Gamache Vintners 2009 Malbec (Colum-bia Valley). Briary berry flavors highlight this

estate-grown Malbec. It’s flecked with pepper through-out a medium-length finish. —P.G. abv: 14.9% Price: $30

88 Januik 2010 Weinbau Vineyard Malbec (Wahluke Slope). An aromatic wine with bar-

rel notes of toast, chocolate, and licorice alongside pep-per and plum. It’s tart and expansive with a soft, velvety feel and a cherry liqueur-filled finish. —S.S. abv: 14.4% Price: $35


BUYINGGUIDE

87 Waterbrook 2010 Reserve Malbec (Co-lumbia Valley). Though not labeled as such,

this is single vineyard Malbec all coming from Canyon Ranch Vineyard with varietal notes of plum and black pepper. Aged in one-quarter new American and French oak, barrel spices play off the elegant fruit flavors that largely paint around the edges. —S.S. abv: 13.7% Price: $23

86 AntoLin Cellars 2010 Estate Malbec (Ya-kima Valley). Pure Malbec, estate-grown, this

has a slightly green edge around tart, light red fruit. Sour cherry and dried herb components interplay, with some bitterness in the finish. —P.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $22

86 Clearwater Canyon 2010 Verhey Vine-yards Malbec (Washington). The oak is at

the fore here with notes of pine and wood spice along with blue berry. The concentration is good but the tan-nins seem a bit dry and the alcohol lingers. —S.S. abv: 15% Price: $25

86 Lookout Point 2010 Malbec (Rattle-snake Hills). Aged in a mixture of American

and French oak (30% new), the barrel notes of vanilla, butterscotch and pine are at the fore followed by light green notes. It’s medium bodied and well constructed but finishes quite tart. —S.S. abv: 14.2% Price: $24

85 Castillo De Feliciana 2010 Phinny Hill Vineyard Malbec (Horse Heaven Hills).

This lightly aromatic Malbec has notes of plum and wood spice. The tannins are rustic and the flavors light. —S.S. abv: 14% Price: $38

85 Holmes Harbor Cellars 2009 Malbec (Walla Walla Valley). Pure Malbec from Les

Collines vineyard, this has light strawberry fruit sup-ported with flavors of milk chocolate and caramel, from aging for 18 months in French oak. It’s pleasant, but thins out quickly. —P.G. abv: 14.7% Price: $35

MERLOT

92 L’Ecole No. 41 2010 Merlot (Columbia Valley). This generous, Bordeaux-style, Mer-

lot-dominated blend incorporates some old block fruit from a mix of first-class vineyards scattered across the Columbia Valley. Lovely floral and clover notes arise, with bright berry and cassis fruit just behind. Sleek, de-tailed and long, this is a terrific value as well. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 14.5% Price: $25

92 Tulpen Cellars 2009 Merlot (Columbia Valley). Among a strong lineup of 2009 reds

from Tulpen, this Merlot is the standout. It’s really a Bordeaux-style blend, with Merlot taking up three quarters, and the rest split among Cabernet, Cab Franc and Malbec. Stiff and herbal upon opening, it opens to reveal a firm scaffolding of flavors, with muscular cas-

sis and black cherry going deep into the finish. Tannins are ripe, and carry an herbal edge. Cellar Selection. —P.G. abv: 14.9% Price: $34

91 Fielding Hills 2010 RiverBend Vineyard Merlot (Wahluke Slope). Aged 19 months in

American and French oak (68% new), it’s lush and ap-pealing with notes of vanilla and other barrel spices ac-centing herbs and red fruit. The palate is creamy in feel with tart, mouthwatering acids that draw out the flavors for a long finish. —S.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $36

90 Dumas Station 2010 Estate Merlot (Walla Walla Valley). Merlot remains a solid strength

at Dumas Station, thanks to the Minnick Hills and Birch Creek Vineyard fruit. Half the barrels were new, an equal percentage of French and American oak, lending a strong bourbon aroma, along with tobacco and vanilla components. The fruit remains a bit constrained, with black fruits leading into a core of cassis. Give this one a good decanting. —P.G. abv: 14.9% Price: $28

90 Gamache Vintners 2009 Merlot (Colum-bia Valley). Rich cherry fruit anchors this ex-

cellent, estate-grown Merlot. It’s lush and textural, with deep, dark fruit flavors and pleasant roasted notes of coffee and smoke. Half the barrels were new American oak, the rest French, mostly new. —P.G. abv: 14.9% Price: $25

90 L’Ecole No. 41 2010 Seven Hills Vineyard Estate Merlot (Walla Walla Valley). This es-

tate-bottling shows single vineyard focus, and a more herbal profile than the winery’s Columbia Valley Mer-lot. Accents of clean earth and dark, cassis fruit suggest a wine with Bordeaux-like strengths and the possibility of cellaring for a decade or longer. Cellar Selection. —P.G. abv: 14.5% Price: $35

89 Barnard Griffin 2010 Merlot (Columbia Valley). Always a fine value, Barnard Griffin’s

Merlot is a brightly fruit wine with tart red and purple berry flavors. Tannins are still a bit stiff, but proportion-ate and ripe enough, with hints of café mocha in the fin-ish. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 13.4% Price: $17

89 Northwest Collection 2010 Limited Re-lease Merlot (Horse Heaven Hills). Direct

and appealing with notes of dried herbs, cherry, and toast. It’s broad in feel with good depth and structure with dry tannins the only thing holding it back. —S.S. abv: 14% Price: $25

88 Balboa 2010 Pepper Bridge Vineyard Merlot (Walla Walla Valley). This is a good

bottle, single vineyard-sourced, toasty and still tightly-wound with tart red fruits. It’s pretty and forward, per-haps best enjoyed in the next year or two. —P.G. abv: 14.4% Price: $30

87 Apex 2010 Merlot (Columbia Valley). The French oak (35% new) brings notes of cocoa

and vanilla that meld with the grape’s currant and herbs. It’s on the lighter side of medium bodied, fresh with a tart bite on the finish providing distraction. —S.S. abv: 14.7% Price: $30

87 Hawks View 2010 Merlot (Washington). It’s not easy to get 16.5% alcohol from a vintage

as cool as 2010 in Washington. The wine has a grain and grass bouquet, wild and brambly fruit, and plenty of Asian spices. Interesting, though not especially typi-cal for the grape variety —P.G. abv: 16.5% Price: $40

87 Walla Walla Vintners 2010 Merlot (Walla Walla Valley). This is a tough, chewy Merlot, a

bit of a stylistic departure for Walla Walla Vintners. Per-haps it’s the addition of Cabernet Sauvignon and Caber-net Franc, or perhaps just the result of the challenging 2010 vintage in the Walla Walla Valley. But the greenish tannins bring a lot of herbal flavors to the forefront, and tend to bury the fruit. —P.G. abv: 14.2% Price: $28

87 Waterbrook 2010 Reserve Merlot (Co-lumbia Valley). 100% Merlot, the oak (73%

American, 26% new) seems a bit overbearing with notes of sweet spices and pine overlaying red fruit. It’s me-dium bodied with tart, citrusy flavors and firm tannins. —S.S. abv: 14.3% Price: $23

85 Kirkland Signature 2011 Merlot (Colum-bia Valley). For full review see page 11. Best

Buy. abv: 14.5% Price: $9

84 WildHaven 2011 Merlot (Columbia Val-ley). Though 100% Merlot, it seems more

reminiscent of a Syrah with notes of blue fruit and ash. The flavors are light with chalky, mouthcoating tannins. —S.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $9

84 WildHaven 2010 Reserve Merlot (Wash-ington). 100% varietal, it’s intriguing with

notes of toast and cherry. Though the fruit concentra-tion is good, the tannins are dry and bitter. —S.S. abv: 14.8% Price: $15

83 Holmes Harbor Cellars 2009 Merlot (Wal-la Walla Valley). Despite the almost syrupy

fruit and alcohol pushing 16%, the fruit scents are less than optimal, suggesting that perhaps the grapes were pushed too far. Along with notes of plant material, the alcoholic heat mars the finish. —P.G. abv: 15.7% Price: $28

SYRAH

93 Mark Ryan 2010 Red Willow Vineyard Lost Soul Syrah (Yakima Valley). This ex-

cellent Syrah is a vineyard designate that perfectly cap-tures both vineyard and Yakima Valley terroir. It’s grace-

WineMag.com | 17

ful and complex, lightly peppery, with plum and cherry flavors at the core. The balance and length are superb. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 14.9% Price: $48

91 Baby Bear 2009 Syrah (Columbia Valley). Baby Bear is a collaboration between Eric Dun-

ham and the actor Kyle MacLachlan, styled as a lighter version of their Pursued by Bear Syrah. This is a most enjoyable wine, with a big yum factor from the gener-ous barrel scents and flavors. Toasty, smoky, a bit astrin-gent, but beautifully streamlined, it displays a full array of black fruits, adorned with lots of dusty, toasty barrel highlights. —P.G. abv: 14.2% Price: $48

91 Fielding Hills 2010 RiverBend Vineyard Syrah (Wahluke Slope). An aromatically

brooding wine with notes of cherry, black pepper and barrel spices. It’s full bodied with rich flavors and a cran-berry lick on the finish. —S.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $38

91 Kontos Cellars 2010 Syrah (Yakima Val-ley). Though not indicated on the bottle, this is

entirely sourced from the Les Collines vineyard. There is a talented hand at work here, in the way the compo-nents knit together, crafting a seamless, complete wine with levels of intense, dark, chewy fruit and tannins. The finish is dense and long, and the wine shows far more depth than many of its 2010 peers. —P.G. abv: 13.9% Price: $34

91 Mark Ryan 2010 Wild Eyed Syrah (Red Mountain). This complement to the Lost Soul

Syrah comes from the other end of the Yakima Val-ley, the Red Mountain vineyards of Klipsun and Ciel du Cheval. Cranberry and strawberry fruit shows good concentration. It’s a compact wine with plenty of min-erality from the vineyard sources, and an extended fin-ish once it gets some breathing time. Cellar Selection. —P.G. abv: 14.9% Price: $48

91 William Church 2010 Syrah (Yakima Val-ley). Dineen and Red Willow ’Les Vins de Mar-

coux’ supply the fruit for this complex, aromatic Syrah. A fecund melding of compost, chicken yard and choc-olate accents surround a core of berries and cherries. Ripe, round and mouth-filling, it’s not at all overpower-ing, but has the style and complexity to hold your inter-est through the entire bottle. —P.G. abv: 14.8% Price: $32

90 Barnard Griffin 2011 Syrah (Columbia Valley). Though labeled simply Columbia Val-

ley, this is a classic example of Wahluke Slope Syrah. Well-integrated layers of citrus, berry, roasted coffee beans, vanilla cookie and Graham cracker combine into a most accessible, yet complex wine. It’s ready to drink, and should be consumed over the next 3–4 years. Edi-tors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 13.6% Price: $17

90 Barrister 2009 Bacchus Vineyard Syrah (Columbia Valley). Thick, heavy, potent and

mouth-coating, this is a liquorous, almost syrupy wine, sure to please those who like big fruit, big tannins, and big barrel flavors. Chocolate, espresso, tar and bourbon barrel flavors dominate, in keeping with the house style. —P.G. abv: 15.3% Price: $28

90 Dunham 2010 Syrah (Columbia Valley). This subtle, graceful Syrah acknowledges the

cool vintage and takes full advantage of what it has to offer. It’s based upon elegantly-layered citrus and sap-py berry fruit flavors, with just a delicate hint of clean earth. —P.G. abv: 13.8% Price: $35

90 Gamache Vintners 2008 Syrah (Colum-bia Valley). As Washington-grown Syrah takes

the national spotlight, this entry from Gamache should be on everyone’s radar. It’s a very well-made example of the classic Washington style, with a bright mix of berry, composted earth, licorice and black tea, backed with cit-rusy acids. Moderate in density, despite relatively high alcohol, it’s good for drinking over the next five years. —P.G. abv: 14.9% Price: $30

90 Kontos Cellars 2010 Tate Syrah (Yaki-ma Valley). A very limited production wine

(just two barrels) sourced from the Boushey vineyard, it is rather light but nicely detailed in a cooler vintage. There are notes of leaf and dried herb, tart red fruit, and surprising length overall. —P.G. abv: 14.4% Price: $46

90 L’Ecole No. 41 2010 Syrah (Columbia Val-ley). With the addition of 20% Grenache, this

pushes the rich fruit flavors front and center. Ripe blue-berries are in the foreground, cutting through some as-tringent tannins. There is little evidence of the herbal character that many Washington Syrahs evoke, but it’s a bold, fruit-driven wine that is immediately enjoyable. —P.G. abv: 15% Price: $25

90 L’Ecole No. 41 2010 Estate Seven Hills Vineyard Syrah (Walla Walla Valley). This

reflects the cooler vintage in 2010, with light spice and peppery earth highlights. Blueberry and cherry flavors are in proportion, displaying the lightness of fruit from vines just entering maturity, and backed with earthy, herbal tannins. —P.G. abv: 15% Price: $35

90 Tulpen Cellars 2009 Syrah (Columbia Valley). The sophisticated southern Rhône-

style blend includes Viognier, Grenache and Mourvè-dre, sourced from vineyards in Walla Walla, Yakima Val-ley, and the Horse Heaven Hills. It’s smooth and sexy, with a satiny presence in the mouth. The purple plum and berry fruit flavors are matched to lightly grainy tan-nins, with streaks of cocoa and earth. —P.G. abv: 14.8% Price: $28

88 McKinley Springs 2010 Syrah (Horse Heaven Hills). The oak (25% new French

and American) is pleasantly dialed back here allowing

the pure notes of plum, cherry, and espresso to shine through. The concentration dips a bit in the middle but it still brings much to enjoy and fits in well at the din-ner table. —S.S. abv: 14.2% Price: $24

88 Redd Brand 2009 Syrah (Walla Walla Val-ley). Mixed in with the Syrah are small amounts

of Merlot and Tempranillo. The structure is firm and carries generous acids, while the flavors suggest citrus and berry, vanilla and chocolate. It delivers a lot of plea-sure for the modest price. —P.G. abv: 14.1% Price: $15

88 Walla Walla Vintners 2010 Syrah (Walla Walla Valley). Tart, tight and taut, this well-

balanced Syrah walks the line between bramble and herb. It’s medium-bodied, and the fruit flavors suggest strawberry and raspberry rather than deeper ripeness. Earthy, mushroom and umami highlights create an in-teresting finish. —P.G. abv: 14.3% Price: $32

88 Woodinville Wine Cellars 2010 Syrah (Columbia Valley). Syrah in Washington can

assume many shapes; here it shows many elements of the forest floor—dried leaves, moist earth, hints of mushroom. It seems to be locked down at the moment, the green tea tannins forming a shell around the tart fruit. Bound to improve dramatically with further bottle age. —P.G. abv: 14.2% Price: $30

87 Chateau Ste. Michelle 2011 Syrah (Co-lumbia Valley). Syrahs are plentiful in Wash-

ington, but not in such quantities. Inevitably, some of the nuances of site and vintage have been smoothed over. What remains is a textbook version of the grape as it shows across the varied Columbia Valley. Smooth and supple, its satiny mix of blueberry and vanilla cream of-fer a fine introduction to the style. The tannins have grip and a hint of green tea flavor. —P.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $14

87 Colter’s Creek 2010 Dallas Vineyard Syr-ah (Washington). Hailing from Dallas Vine-

yard on Washington’s Candy Mountain, this is an aro-matic Syrah with notes of vanilla, coconut, and cherry. It’s sweet and rich with abundant oak flavors and tart acidity that still needs some time to settle down. —S.S. abv: 13.8% Price: $13

87 Lujon 2010 Syrah (Columbia Valley). Two thirds of this is sourced from the Walla Walla

valley. It’s a well-made, fruit-forward style, with berry, plum, vanilla and licorice flavors set in a rather lean frame. As it breathes, more of the herbal notes emerge; adding detail and dimension. —P.G. abv: 14.8% Price: $20

86 Balboa 2010 Estate Syrah (Walla Walla Valley). A bit of a come-down in 2010, this

shows the green, herbal style of Syrah, with an abun-dance of stem flavors running through stiff tannins. It


BUYINGGUIDEspent 16 months in French oak, but somehow conceals its influence. —P.G. abv: 15% Price: $34

85 Holmes Harbor Cellars 2009 Syrah (Wal-la Walla Valley). Sourced from Les Collines

vineyard, one of Walla Walla’s best, this 100% Syrah opens with characteristic scents of smoke and bacon and black cherry. But in the mouth it has a syrupy flavor, somewhat medicinal, and dense tannins. —P.G. abv: 15.7% Price: $30

GRENACHE

90 Tulpen Cellars 2010 Yellow Bird Vineyard Grenache (Walla Walla Valley). The blend

includes a splash of Syrah, but it’s essentially Grenache in flavor, with a bit of funk. Brambly, juicy berry flavors roll into raspberry pie, with a streak of composted earth. It’s tart, tangy and moderately complex—a great start for this young vineyard. —P.G. abv: 14.5% Price: $38

87 Dusted Valley 2011 Stone Tree Vineyard Grenache (Wahluke Slope). Blended with

24% Syrah all coming from Stone Tree Vineyard, the wine saw only a kiss of new oak (16%) putting the fruit front and center. There are notes of red plum and herbs with tart flavors, grainy tannins and a puckering finish. —S.S. abv: 14.7% Price: $39

87 Lookout Point 2011 Grenache (Rattle-snake Hills). There’s a lot of promise in this

blend of Grenache (85.5%), Syrah (10%), Mourvèdre (4%) and Roussanne (0.5%). Coming from a cool vin-tage, it’s aromatic with notes of raspberry, white pepper, and flowers. The palate is light, tart and fresh. —S.S. abv: 13.4% Price: $24

87 Redd Brand NV Lonesome Spring Vine-yard Grenache (Yakima Valley). Quite

fruity and forward, this non-vintage Grenache brings the pretty, juicy, plum and cherry flavors of the variety into good focus. It’s a soft and delightful wine. It’s best to drink it soon. —P.G. abv: 15% Price: $15

RED BLENDS

94 Kevin White 2011 La Fraternité (Yakima Valley). A blend of Grenache, Mourvèdre and

Syrah, this is right up there with the best of Maison Bleue for a southern Rhône blend from Washington. Lovely aromatics introduce a forward, fruit-powered wine loaded with scents and flavors of ripe cherries and plums. The red fruits are enhanced with hints of tobac-co and mineral, but the lollipop fruit core is what cap-tivates through a long finish. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 14.2% Price: $20

94 L’Ecole No. 41 2010 Perigee Estate Sev-en Hills Vineyard (Walla Walla Valley). For

full review see page 3. Cellar Selection. abv: 14.5% Price: $50

93 àMaurice 2010 Boushey Vineyard Syrah-Grenache (Yakima Valley). The addition of

28% Grenache brings a punchy, upfront fruitiness to the umami-soaked Syrah. Tangy orange/raspberry fruit is concentrated and fills the mouth; then the peppery, earthy Syrah backbone brings flesh to the finish. Beauti-fully proportioned. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 14.1% Price: $34

93 Kevin White 2011 En Hommage Syrah-Grenache (Yakima Valley). Olsen vine-

yard Syrah and Upland vineyards Grenache combine in equal proportions, making a compelling blend that nicely counterpoints the winery’s La Fraternité red. Here it’s all about blue fruits, especially plums, along with some earthy, barnyard flavors. The structure and aromatics are outstanding, and the acidity of the vintage suggests this wine is the one to cellar, while the other wine is the one to gulp. Cellar Selection. —P.G. abv: 14.4% Price: $25

93 Mark Ryan 2010 Dead Horse (Red Moun-tain). The Dead Horse is Mark Ryan’s book

end to the Long Haul. This one is Cabernet-dominat-ed (rather than Merlot), with all five Bordeaux grapes in the final blend. It’s dark and fragrant, satiny in the mouth, with appealing flavors of plum, cassis and red licorice. Smooth and lingering, it’s a fine example of the Mark Ryan Dead Horse style. —P.G. abv: 14.9% Price: $52

92 àMaurice 2010 The Graves Artist Series (Columbia Valley). The Graves is the newest

àMaurice Artist Series release—46% Cabernet Sauvi-gnon, 31% Cabernet Franc and 23% Merlot. It’s reti-cent at first, and actually blossomed a full 24 hours af-ter it was opened and tasted. Tightly-wrapped cassis and dried cherry fruit carries a whiff of sweet tomato. With generous airing, the wine gains in both complexity and mass. Cellar Selection. —P.G. abv: 14.6% Price: $35

92 Buty 2010 58% Merlot & 42% Cabernet Franc (Columbia Valley). Conner Lee vine-

yard fruit is on display here, delivering immaculate fla-vors with precise detail. Brambly blackberry, strawber-ry and plum combine in the core, with lightly applied chocolate and vanilla notes from aging 14 months in 50% new French oak. Excellent penetration and depth suggest cellaring this wine for another 8–10 years. Cel-lar Selection. —P.G. abv: 14.3% Price: $45

92 Kontos Cellars 2009 Alatus Blend (Wal-la Walla Valley). Half Merlot, 43% Cabernet

Sauvignon, the rest Cab Franc, this is now a true (no Syrah) Bordeaux-style blend. The density and lushness are exceptional. A deep, textural palate is packed with ripe black fruits; and the finish layers in delicious coffee

and chocolate accents. Tannins add some graininess to the mouthfeel. —P.G. abv: 14.3% Price: $36

92 Mark Ryan 2010 The Dissident (Colum-bia Valley). The Dissident blend has morphed

in 2010; here it is 30% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Syrah, 22% Merlot and small amounts of Cab Franc, Malbec and Petit Verdot. It’s a more elegant, refined style, re-flective of the vintage, and it works well to deliver sup-ple, sleek and bracing flavors. Mixed herb and blackber-ry along with nuanced notes of earth and barrel (roughly half new) move gracefully across the palate. Delicious now, but should improve with a few years of cellaring as well. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 14.6% Price: $32

91 Convergence Zone Cellars 2010 Squall Line Red Wine (Red Mountain). A firm

and authoritative Bordeaux-style blend, the Squall Line is an equal mix of Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc, with a splash of Merlot to finish. Cherry, plum and cassis fruit anchors the wine, with threads of graph-ite and roasted coffee running through a long, subtle, satisfying finish. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 14.4% Price: $28

91 Dunham 2010 Trutina Red Wine (Colum-bia Valley). Trutina’s blend changes signif-

icantly from vintage to vintage. Here it is almost two thirds Merlot, the rest a mix of Bordeaux grapes with a tiny splash of Syrah. Silky and broad, it fills the mouth with lush flavors of blackberries, black cherry, caramel and milk chocolate. Sounds like a candy bar, and tastes just as good. —P.G. abv: 14.2% Price: $29

91 L’Ecole No. 41 2010 Candy Mountain Vineyard Red Cabernet Sauvignon-Mer-

lot (Columbia Valley). This new vineyard-designate blends Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot in roughly equal proportions, from a site adjacent to Red Moun-tain. Generous, deeply colored, and even more deep-ly flavored, this supple and aromatic wine—currently a wine club selection—deserves to be more widely dis-tributed. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 14.5% Price: $39

91 William Church 2010 Sur La Mer (Colum-bia Valley). This is three fifths Merlot, the rest

spread among the other four Bordeaux grapes. It’s very well crafted, showing a bit of herb along with berries and spice. What most impresses is the overall structure, and the impression of ageworthy muscle in the finish. —P.G. abv: 14.6% Price: $36

90 Beast 2010 Wildebeest (Columbia Val-ley). The 2010 Wildebeest red—a Buty “super

second”—is 77% Syrah, 14% Cabernet Sauvignon and 9% Cabernet Franc. Bright and tangy, it offers brambly fruit flavors—boysenberry and raspberry—along with sweet cherry. It’s loaded with spice and lightly tasting of licorice. Young, fresh and fruit-driven, it has the struc-

WineMag.com | 19

ture to improve over the next five or six years. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 14% Price: $25

90 Convergence Zone Cellars 2010 Storm Front Red Wine (Red Mountain). The sister

wine to the Squall Line Red, this is another Bordeaux-style blend, with Merlot in the central role. It’s sleek and well-crafted, with purple fruits, delicate toast and a creamy, latté-like finish. —P.G. abv: 14.1% Price: $28

90 Dunham 2011 Three Legged Red (Co-lumbia Valley). For full review see page 8.

Editors’ Choice. abv: 13.8% Price: $19

90 Mark Ryan 2010 Long Haul (Columbia Valley). The production of Long Haul has

doubled in 2010, and vineyard sources have changed, though most remain on Red Mountain despite the Co-lumbia Valley appellation. The Bordeaux-style blend is 61% Merlot, 16% Cabernet Sauvignon, 12% Cabernet Franc, 9% Malbec and 2% Petit Verdot. It has drying tannins that somewhat mask the tart berry fruit. There’s more stem and earth apparent in the palate, perhaps due to the addition of Cabernet Sauvignon. It’s quite Bordeaux-like, in style and finish. —P.G. abv: 14.8% Price: $48

90 Tulpen Cellars 2009 Coalescence (Co-lumbia Valley). This Bordeaux-style blend

is 67% Cabernet Sauvignon, and splits the rest among Merlot, Cab Franc and Malbec, sourced from six dif-ferent vineyards. It’s a lovely blend, balanced and ju-diciously earthy, with a mix of red and blue fruits. The blend and balance suggest that a decade of cellaring would not be too much. Cellar Selection. —P.G. abv: 14.5% Price: $32

90 William Church 2010 2 Spires Syrah-Cabernet Sauvignon (Columbia Valley).

This is a blend of 67% Syrah and 33% Cabernet Sau-vignon from Red Willow and Dineen, respectively. Though it falls on the lighter side for Washington Syrah, it’s proportionate and pleasing, with strawberry fruit, mocha and toast. Tannins are fine and slender; though drinking well now, this could be cellared for awhile lon-ger. —P.G. abv: 14.4% Price: $34

90 William Church 2010 Bishop’s Blend (Columbia Valley). The Bishop’s Blend is

the value bottling at William Church, and the wine that most varies from vintage to vintage. Despite a price bump, the value is still there. In this vintage it’s a five grape Bordeaux-style blend with a splash of Grenache as well. Initially silky and bursting with pretty red fruits, it moves into darker fruits as well, with cassis and black cherry. The balance is spot on. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 14.9% Price: $23

89 Baer 2010 Arctos (Columbia Valley). This is a Bordeaux-style blend, 60% Cabernet Sauvi-

gnon, with Cabernet Franc and Merlot filling it out. All the fruit comes from the Stillwater Creek Vineyard. The

initial aromas are dominated with sweet, toasty, pretty new French oak, with the irresistible flavors of mocha following. As good as it is, the fruit seems light and sub-merged, with little depth. This is a wine to enjoy in its youth. —P.G. abv: 14.5% Price: $43

89 Dunham 2009 Trutina Red Wine (Colum-bia Valley). A blend of 60% Cabernet Sauvi-

gnon and four other grapes, this toasty red will please anyone who likes a red wine with satiny, milk chocolate goodness. The fruit and mouth-coating barrel flavors are fine, though there is just a hint of a green edge to the tannins. —P.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $26

88 Baer 2010 Ursa (Columbia Valley). The Ursa blend is about 40% each of Merlot and

Cabernet Franc, with Malbec and Cabernet Sauvignon filling out the rest. Unsurprisingly, there is a forceful streak of herbal flavors running through this wine. It’s more focused on the palate than the Star, with riper fla-vors of blackberry and bramble, albeit with plenty of pepper and stem. —P.G. abv: 14.5% Price: $39

88 DiStefano 2009 Domenica (Columbia Val-ley). As usual, Merlot is the bulk of the blend,

with Cabernet Franc and a splash of Petit Verdot. There is a strong streak of citrus running through the core of the palate, giving it an acid spine. Tart red fruits, lightly spiced, lead into firm but polished tannins. —P.G. abv: 14.8% Price: $32

88 ENSO 2011 Chateauneuf du Stark (Co-lumbia Valley). Despite the moniker, this

blend of Counoise, Mourvèdre, Malbec, Zinfandel and Petit Sirah strays pretty far afield from the southern Rhône. It’s an edgy, stylized effort, light with tart rhu-barb fruit, wild berries and plenty of tongue-tingling acidity. Yet it does not lack for flavor, detail, or interest. For acid hounds. —P.G. abv: 12.9% Price: $40

88 Fielding Hills 2010 Tribute RiverBend Vineyard (Wahluke Slope). A blend of Cab-

ernet Franc, Syrah, Merlot, and Cabernet Sauvignon, it’s ripe and succulent with notes of cherry, vanilla and sweet spices supported by tart acids and tightly wound tannins. —S.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $32

88 Gamache Vintners 2008 Nicolas Reserve Red (Columbia Valley). This new offering

from Gamache Vintners is a Bordeaux-style blend made from 67% Cabernet Sauvignon, sourced from the Gam-ache and Champoux vineyards. Pretty cherry lollipop fruit carries a whiff of barnyard, and the tannins finish with an herbal echo. —P.G. abv: 14.9% Price: $55

88 O•S Winery 2010 Sonas (Yakima Valley). Sonas is half Merlot, 33% Cabernet Sauvignon,

and the rest Cabernet Franc. It has graham cracker scents and flavors, and a soft, smooth mouthfeel. The

red plum fruit is swathed in plenty of mocha flavors; a most enjoyable, unpretentious wine. —P.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $45

88 Woodinville Wine Cellars 2010 Double Vision Red Syrah-Cabernet Sauvignon

(Columbia Valley). This is half Syrah (from Chandler Reach) and half Cabernet Sauvignon (from Stillwater Creek), aged in 100% new French oak. The plush fruits are ripe and well-matched, and there are nuanced high-lights of herb, leaf, bark and beet root. The tannins are tight and stiff, so some extra breathing time is a good idea. —P.G. abv: 15% Price: $45

87 Dumas Station 2010 Cow Catcher Red (Walla Walla Valley). This is a fine, all-pur-

pose red blend, mostly Cabernet, with time in one-third new French and American oak. Heavily charred, smoky and earthy, it’s got a fair amount of dark cassis fruit to carry all the barrel toast and finishes with some notes of bark and stem. —P.G. abv: 14.1% Price: $24

87 Dusted Valley 2010 BFM Stone Tree Vine-yard (Wahluke Slope). This is 70% Merlot

with the rest Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, and Petit Verdot. Though the oak (American and French) is only 35% new, it’s still at the fore with notes of vanil-la and coconut along with cherry. The flavors are sweet and rich with chalky tannins and the alcohol shows. —S.S. abv: 15.3% Price: $53

87 Redd Brand 2008 Red Wine (Columbia Valley). This is a six grape, Bordeaux-style

blend, with light berry and tree-fruit flavors, balanced against moderate streaks of leaf and some green notes. The overall texture and balance are in good proportion, and the wine is ready for drinking right now. —P.G. abv: 14.1% Price: $15

87 Ross Andrew 2010 Washington Red Blend (Columbia Valley). 60% Cabernet

Sauvignon along with 35% Merlot and a dollop of Syr-ah, this red blend is expressive with notes of blueberry, game and chocolate. Aged 20 months in French oak (38% new), it’s softly structured with light fruit flavors. —S.S. abv: 13.8% Price: $20

87 Sineann 2011 Cross-Check Red (Co-lumbia Valley). The Cross-Check is a blend

of Merlot and Zinfandel, spicy and sharp-edged. The tart flavors of plum and peach—yes, peach—have am-ple length and the two grapes work well together in this unusual blend. —P.G. abv: 14.6% Price: $20

87 SuLei Cellars 2010 Roller Girl Jammer Red (Walla Walla Valley). Cabernet Sauvi-

gnon, Merlot and Cab Franc are in the blend, which saw one quarter new American oak. It’s bone dry, a pal-ate ripper, with a steely core of red berries and stiff, green tea tannins. —P.G. abv: 13.8% Price: $19


BUYINGGUIDE

86 Baer 2010 Star (Columbia Valley). This Merlot-dominated blend is sourced exclusively

from the Stillwater Creek Vineyard. The entry-level red blend from Baer, it’s a broad, spicy, somewhat peppery wine, reflecting the cooler vintage and northern site. The listed alcohol does not show in the palate, which tilts a little toward the green side, and falls away rather quickly. —P.G. abv: 14.5% Price: $29

86 Barons V 2010 Petit Barone (Columbia Valley). This is a different blend from previ-

ous vintages of Petit Barone, with Merlot dominant (71%) and Cabernet Sauvignon riding shotgun. Light and fruity, with hints of pepper, raspberry and cherry flavors, this is an easy-going quaffer without much stay-ing power. —P.G. abv: 14.1% Price: $22

86 Cairdeas NV Tri Red Blend (Columbia Valley). Tri is actually a blend of four grapes –

Syrah, Dolcetto, Cabernet Sauvignon and Mourvèdre. Maybe should be renamed Quad? It’s soft and fruity, and the unusual mix of grapes resolves into an easy-drinking, all-purpose, but somewhat diffuse, generic red. —P.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $29

86 Cor Cellars 2010 Momentum (Horse Heaven Hills). A blend of Malbec, Merlot,

and Cabernet Franc aged in two year old and neutral barrels, it has notes of peat, cola and cherry. It’s medium bodied with tart, slightly bitter acids and a scraping feel to the tannins. —S.S. abv: 14.9% Price: $18

86 Holmes Harbor Cellars 2009 Teragré Red Etude (Washington). Also labeled the Artist

Series, this blend of Cabernet, Merlot and Syrah sports 15.6% alcohol. It’s sweet, earthy, and tannic, with a rough, herbal flavor. The sweet, almost sugary fruit has not integrated thoroughly with the barrel flavors and rough tannins. Give it breathing time and/or a few more years in the cellar. —P.G. abv: 15.6% Price: $37

86 Lookout Point NV Two Coyotes Red Wine (Rattlesnake Hills). A non-vintage blend of

largely Grenache and Malbec all from Coyote Vineyard, it’s moderately aromatic notes of black pepper, flowers, and raspberries with a touch of dust. It’s medium bod-ied with tart, puckering fruit flavors. —S.S. abv: 13.8% Price: $23

86 O•S Winery 2009 Red (Columbia Valley). This Bordeaux-style blend remains a fair value,

showing some sweet barrel spices along with opening fruit flavors of red and black berry. It thins out in the middle and finishes with a simple, fruity flourish. —P.G. abv: 14.1% Price: $15

86 SuLei Cellars 2010 Les Collines Vine-yard (Walla Walla Valley). Though this is

pure Cabernet from an excellent Walla Walla vineyard, the flavors seem rather harsh and quite astringent. The

dark fruit is cloaked in bitter, chalky tannins that require some rich food to cut through. —P.G. abv: 14.5% Price: $32

85 Canoe Ridge 2010 Reserve Cherry Street Red Wine (Columbia Valley). The oak spic-

es (30% new American and French) are at the fore here along with notes of orange peel, game, and vanilla on this unusual blend of Syrah, Malbec and Grenache. It’s medium bodied with dry tannins. —S.S. abv: 14.3% Price: $24

85 McKinley Springs 2009 Horsepower Pro-prietary Red Blend (Horse Heaven Hills).

A unique blend of Syrah, Barbera, Malbec, Petit Verdot and Mourvèdre all aged in neutral oak, it’s a straightfor-ward, easy drinker with sweet notes of plum, cracked pepper and tire rubber. —S.S. abv: 13.8% Price: $16

84 Cairdeas 2010 Consonance Red Wine Blend (Rattlesnake Hills). Almost equal

parts Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon and Malbec with the balance Merlot, it comes off as quite green and strongly herbal along with notes of green tea and cherry. It’s soft in feel and quite tart. —S.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $32

OTHER RED WINES

93 Mark Ryan 2010 Crazy Mary Mourvèdre (Red Mountain). Varietal Mourvèdre from

Washington state is rare indeed, but it’s indicative of the grape’s distinctiveness here that wineries of this caliber are showing it off. Flint, plum, boysenberry and spice are accented with light whiffs of barnyard, earth and rock. It’s all subtly woven together, displaying power and elegance at the same time. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 15.1% Price: $48

88 Dusted Valley 2011 Stone Tree Vineyard Mourvèdre (Wahluke Slope). Blended with

ten percent Syrah and aged in neutral oak, this wine from the cool 2011 vintage brings notes of black pep-per, plum, and game. It’s full bodied and intense with tart flavors and firm, somewhat dry tannins. —S.S. abv: 15% Price: $39

88 Tulpen Cellars 2010 Yellow Bird Vineyard Tempranillo (Walla Walla Valley). This is a

first for Tulpen, a single vineyard, pure varietal Tempra-nillo. There is a forceful aroma of Jamaican herb, along with brambly berry fruit. The wine shows good weight, proportion and balance. Young fruit from young vines. —P.G. abv: 15% Price: $38

87 AntoLin Cellars 2010 Estate Carmenère (Yakima Valley). At 12.7% alcohol, this is—

not surprisingly—a light, tart wine. The pomegranate fruit is surrounded with caramel and toast flavors from aging in French oak. The finishing tannins have a green-tea edge. —P.G. abv: 12.7% Price: $22

87 Cor Cellars 2011 E Cor Si Move Tempra-nillo 24K Vineyard Tempranillo (Wahluke

Slope). This is a rare beast from Washington—single vineyard Tempranillo aged in neutral oak coming in at less than 13% alcohol. It’s soft and light with notes of red fruit and refreshing acidity that drops off on the back half. —S.S. abv: 12.8% Price: $26

87 Wind Rose 2011 Dolcetto (Columbia Val-ley). A good effort in a challenging vintage,

this opens with pretty fruit flavors of berry and cherry, forward and fresh. Tannins are relatively soft; still the wine seems much less complex than the previous vin-tage. —P.G. abv: 13.9% Price: $19

86 Cor Cellars 2010 McKinley Springs Vine-yard Petit Verdot (Horse Heaven Hills). As

with many of its red wines, Cor eschews the use of new oak here. It’s moderately aromatic with notes of soil, tar, and green herbs. The palate is tart and citrusy with a chalky feel. —S.S. abv: 14.3% Price: $24

86 Wind Rose 2010 Barbera (Columbia Val-ley). This has a musky, earthy aroma, that intro-

duces a rather rustic wine that might fit comfortably in one of those old-style straw flasks known in Italy as fias-cos. Leafy with sweet tomato and pastry fruit flavors, it’s perfect for pasta or pizza. —P.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $25

86 Wind Rose 2009 Nebbiolo (Wahluke Slope). Blended with 15% Barbera, this is an

aromatically intriguing wine with notes of rose water, sour cherry, and dried flowers. It’s tart with brawny, firm tannins and cranberry-like acidity. Serve it at the dinner table to see it at its best. —S.S. abv: 14.2% Price: $30

84 Holmes Harbor Cellars 2009 Carmenère (Walla Walla Valley). This somewhat masks

the naturally herbal nature of the grape with scents of new oak, but the unripe aromas of the grapes prevail. The scents recall grass cuttings after they’ve been out in the sun for some time. —P.G. abv: 12.4% Price: $NA

CALIFORNIA WHITE WINES

CHARDONNAY

94 Dutton-Goldfield 2011 Dutton Ranch Walker Hill Vineyard Chardonnay (Green

Valley). For full review see page 3. abv: 14.1% Price: $50

94 Joseph Phelps 2011 Freestone Vine-yards Estate Grown Chardonnay (So-

noma Coast). For full review see page 3. Cellar Se-lection. abv: 13.5% Price: $55

WineMag.com | 21

93 Marimar Estate 2009 Don Miguel Vine-yard Dobles Lias Unfiltered Chardonnay

(Russian River Valley). For full review see page 4. abv: 14.2% Price: $45

93 Shafer 2011 Red Shoulder Ranch Char-donnay (Carneros). A huge Chardonnay,

so full-bodied and rich, it’s almost like a red wine, but that’s the Red Shoulder personality. With buttercream, jammy tropical fruit, orange custard, vanilla, buttered toast and brown sugar flavors, it would be over the top, except for vibrant acidity and a deep minerality. Drink now–2017. —S.H. abv: 14.8% Price: $50

92 Foley 2010 JA Ranch Chardonnay (Sta. Rita Hills). This is a more serious Chardonnay

than Foley has shown in recent years. It’s a fine wine, crisp yet silky, and while there’s plenty of citrus, tropical fruit and oak flavor, the wine is subtle and restrained. It has a tug of minerality that makes it truly complex. —S.H. abv: 14.3% Price: $45

92 Freeman 2011 Ryo-Fu Chardonnay (Rus-sian River Valley). Freeman’s Ryo-fu Char-

donnay always is a tasty, delicious wine. This wine shows a purity of tropical and citrus fruits, with subtle mineral, roasted nut and dried apple complexities, brightened by crisp, lemony acidity. Drink now–2017, but not too cold. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $40

92 Iron Horse 2011 Native Yeast Chardon-nay (Green Valley). For full review see page

5. abv: 13.4% Price: $48

92 Iron Horse 2011 Rued Clone Chardonnay (Green Valley). For full review see page 6.

abv: 12.9% Price: $48

92 Joseph Swan Vineyards 2011 Kent the Younger Chardonnay (Russian River Val-

ley). With only 12.5% alcohol by volume, this young-vine Chardonnay is one of the lightest, most delicate Chardonnays the winery has ever produced. But it’s not shy on flavor, delivering waves of tropical fruits, peach-es, vanilla and buttered toast. Long and sweet in honey, it finishes dry and racy. Defines the new elegant style of Chardonnay. —S.H. abv: 12.5% Price: $36

92 Morgan 2011 Double L Vineyard Char-donnay (Santa Lucia Highlands). Morgan’s

Double L is usually his biggest Chardonnay of the vin-tage, powerful in fruit and oak barrel influences. His 2011 shows both of those qualities. The fruit is concen-trated in oranges, nectarines and mangoes, while 30% new French oak adds the requisite touch of toast. It’s a dramatic, flashy wine that calls for equally upscale food, such as lobster, shrimp or scallops, in your favorite but-tery sauce. —S.H. abv: 14.3% Price: $40

91 Iron Horse 2011 Estate Chardonnay (Green Valley). For full review see page 7.

abv: 13.5% Price: $28

91 Patz & Hall 2011 Hudson Vineyard Char-donnay (Carneros). This Chard is rich yet

crisply acidic and complex. Shows plenty of new French oak, but wears it well, with the pineapple, mango, hon-eysuckle and mineral flavors standing up. Delicious now, and will hold in the bottle for 4–5 years. —S.H. abv: 14.2% Price: $55

90 Alysian 2010 Floodgate Vineyard Clone 95 Chardonnay (Russian River Valley).

This Chardonnay is made in a leaner, lower alcohol style. In place of the fat, rich fruit of some Chards you’ll find a tart minerality, with the citrus and peach flavors containing hints of sweet green peas. Gains extra points for elegance. —S.H. abv: 14.1% Price: $40

90 Baileyana 2010 Grand Firepeak Cuvée Firepeak Vineyard Estate Grown Char-

donnay (Edna Valley). For full review see page 8. abv: 14.5% Price: $28

90 Campovida 2012 Oppenlander Vineyard Chardonnay (Mendocino County). Cam-

povida continues to impress with its newly released white wines, producing this crisp, sharp and lemon-y Chardonnay from the beautiful Oppenlander Vineyard, settled in the tiny coastal-kissed town of Comptche. The lemon hits first, followed by a distinct layer of green ap-ple and even a hint of floral fig. With graceful acidity, this is a perfect white for the dinner table, not too high in alcohol at 13.1%, too. —V.B. abv: 13.1% Price: $38

90 Foley 2010 T Anchor Ranch Chardonnay (Sta. Rita Hills). A soft, pleasant Chardonnay

that has some extra features beyond the ripe, oaky fruit flavors. There’s a fatness and opulence to it, with sweet flavors of honey, pineapples and buttered toast that fin-ish long and dry. Best consumed now. —S.H. abv: 14.3% Price: $45

90 Iron Horse 2011 Unoaked Chardonnay (Green Valley). For full review see page 9.

abv: 12.8% Price: $27

90 Jax 2011 Cold Creek Ranch Vineyard Chardonnay (Carneros). Jax has struggled

to find a style to their Chardonnay. This 2011 is their finest effort to date, although it does show the effects of the chilly vintage, being tight and tart. With lime, or-ange and papaya flavors, enriched with new French oak, it’s rich, yet elegant and restrained. —S.H. abv: 14.3% Price: $38

90 Joseph Carr 2011 Chardonnay (Sonoma Coast). Good price for a Chardonnay this opu-

lent. It doesn’t pull any punches, offering full-throttle pineapple, Meyer lemon, butterscotch, toast and vanil-la flavors, in a creamy texture. The richness fortunately

is balanced with crisp, bright acidity. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. abv: 14.1% Price: $20

90 Marimar Estate 2011 Don Miguel Vine-yard Acero Unoaked Chardonnay (Rus-

sian River Valley). For full review see page 9. abv: NA Price: $29

90 Patz & Hall 2011 Dutton Ranch Chardon-nay (Russian River Valley). New oak dom-

inates this brisk, young Chardonnay. It’s elaborate in tropical fruit, Asian pears and green apples, with fine, tart acidity making the mouth water, as well as a buttery creaminess from lees and 100% malolactic fermenta-tion. Drink now. —S.H. abv: 14.2% Price: $42

90 Patz & Hall 2010 Hyde Vineyard Chardon-nay (Carneros). Don’t drink this Chardonnay

too cold, as it needs a little while in the glass to show its stuff. Right off the bat, it’s austere, but when it airs, the tropical fruit, orange and oak complexities come out. The parts have not yet come together, though, so give it 3–4 years to develop. Cellar Selection. —S.H. abv: 14.2% Price: $58

90 Trefethen 2011 Chardonnay (Oak Knoll). A fine Chardonnay, front-loaded with tropical

fruit, Asian pear, and green apple flavors, with rich hon-ey and vanilla from charred oak barrels. With a crunch of acidity, it’s Trefethen’s best Chardonnay in years. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $32

89 Foley 2010 Bar Lazy S Ranch Chardon-nay (Sta. Rita Hills). This is an easy to drink

Chardonnay made for drinking now. It’s forward in but-tered toast, honey, pineapple jam and butterscotch fla-vors. —S.H. abv: 14.3% Price: $45

89 Hanzell 2011 Sebella Chardonnay (So-noma Valley). This is a sneak peak at Hanzell’s

estate Chardonnay of the vintage, yet to be released. With a bit of oak, it’s dry, rich and creamy, displaying forward pineapple, Meyer lemon and lime fruit flavors for drinking now. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $36

89 Morgan 2012 Metallico Un-Oaked Char-donnay (Santa Lucia Highlands). Wine-

maker Dan Lee selected lots of Chardonnay so rich on their own, they didn’t need oak. And you’ll hardly miss that barrel influence with all the intensely concen-trated tropical fruit, nectarine, green apple and vanilla flavors. Shows a freshness that captivates now. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $22

89 Patz & Hall 2011 Chardonnay (Sonoma Coast). The pineapple and tropical fruits in

this Chardonnay have been lavished with lots of new French oak. The flavors of buttered toast and caramel dominate. It’s a rich, flashy wine to drink now. —S.H. abv: 14.2% Price: $38


BUYINGGUIDE

88 Hanzell 2010 Chardonnay (Sonoma Val-ley). Tastes rich and flashy now, with a rich ar-

ray of oranges, pineapples and peaches, accented with oak. The acidity is just fine. Hanzell Chardonnays have a history of aging, so try stashing it for six years and see what happens. Cellar Selection. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $75

88 Joseph Swan Vineyards 2011 Cuvée de Trois Chardonnay (Russian River Valley).

The oak is strong on this blend of three of the winery’s best vineyards. It shows up as buttered toast, with a dis-tinctive, charry-sweet note of toasted marshmallows. The wine is strong in pineapples and oranges. An ec-centric Chardonnay for drinking now. —S.H. abv: 14.2% Price: $29

88 Joyce 2011 Black Mountain Chardon-nay (Santa Lucia Highlands). Shows lots of

structure, with brisk acids, firm, granitic minerals and even a dusting of tannins. The flavors are evenly divided between sweet citrus fruits and new oak. Not an ager, but a wine of finesse and elegance. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $24

88 MacMurray Ranch 2011 Chardonnay (Russian River Valley). For full review see

page 9. abv: 13.5% Price: $20

88 Stolo 2011 Chardonnay (San Luis Obis-po County). The combination of a cool grow-

ing region and a cool vintage have made this wine very tart, with low alcohol. Don’t look for fat, opulent tropical fruits here. Instead, you’ll find lemons, limes and mangoes, complex and mouthwatering. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. abv: 13.2% Price: $21

87 Chime 2012 Chardonnay (Oakville). For full review see page 9.

abv: 13.9% Price: $19

87 Hess Collection 2011 Chardonnay (Napa Valley). This Chardonnay packs a lot of punch

for the price. The flavors of pineapple jam, Key lime pie and oranges mingle with oaky buttered toast and creamy lees, leading to a smooth finish. —S.H. abv: 14.1% Price: $22

87 Joyce 2011 Stele Chardonnay (Mon-terey). This is the winery’s stainless steel-fer-

mented Chardonnay. It’s a lovely wine, bright in acidity, dry and flashy in jammy orange, pear and mango fruit flavors. —S.H. abv: 14.1% Price: $18

87 Mill Creek 2012 Estate Unoaked Char-donnay (Dry Creek Valley). With no oak,

this wine depends on richness of fruit to deliver. It of-fers orange, lemon and papaya flavors that are complex and spicy. There’s a lot of acidity that really gets your mouth watering. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $23

87 Paul Dolan 2011 Chardonnay (Mendoci-no County). A fleshy, fuller bodied Chardon-

nay, with pleasant notes of pear and fig, from organical-ly grown grapes. The style will please California Chard drinkers who like a little oomph to their wine and are looking to enjoy the wine on its own as well as with food. —V.B. abv: 13.5% Price: $18

87 Thomas Fogarty 2010 Chardonnay (San-ta Cruz Mountains). This Chardonnay shows

flashy orange, pineapple, peach and honey flavors, en-riched with the buttered toast of oak barrels. The tex-ture is creamy smooth. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $30

87 Wattle Creek 2011 Chardonnay (Yorkville Highlands). Full, lush and citrus-y, Wattle

Creek’s Yorkville Highlands Chardonnay is a great go-to white, priced right and not overbearing, yet fruity enough to be enjoyed alongside savory, seafood-stocked foods. —V.B. abv: 13.9% Price: $25

86 Alysian 2010 Russian River Selection Chardonnay (Russian River Valley). Made

in the popular style, this Chardonnay is heavy in oak, with ripe, jammy orange, pineapple and creamy lees fla-vors. It’s a good wine, if not particularly subtle or com-plex. —S.H. abv: 14.2% Price: $36

86 Justin 2012 Chardonnay (Central Coast). Although Chardonnay might not traditionally

be Justin’s strong suit, this is a ripe and creamy wine, with notes of tropical fruit, citrus and oak throughout. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $19

86 Martin Ray 2012 Unoaked Chardonnay (Russian River Valley). Notes of pineapple

candy, buttered popcorn, honey and vanilla flavors. Brisk acidity adds an important balance. —S.H. abv: 14.2% Price: $17

86 Wild Horse 2011 Unbridled Chardonnay (Santa Maria Valley). This Chard’s oak ac-

cents pineapple and lemon fruit flavors. It’s dry yet hon-eyed, that paradox of Chardonnay, with a good burst of citrusy acids for brightness. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $24

85 Gallo Signature Series 2011 Chardon-nay (Russian River Valley). Lavish in oak,

with buttered toast and sweet caramel dominating the underlying citrus and tropical fruits. The acidity is just fine, providing needed balance, but those woody notes are jarring. —S.H. abv: 14.1% Price: $30

85 Gracianna 2012 Suzanne’s Blend Char-donnay (Russian River Valley). Hard acid-

ity like a squeeze of lime marks this dry Chardonnay. It’s also quite oaky. Shows good citrus and tropical fruit flavors, but is rustic. —S.H. abv: 13.6% Price: $34

85 Happy Camper 2012 Chardonnay (Cali-fornia). For full review see page 11. Best Buy.

abv: 13% Price: $9

85 Inception 2010 Chardonnay (Santa Bar-bara County). Lemony and tart, with richer

notes of orange, cream and buttered toast, this wine offers everyday Chardonnay pleasure at an affordable price. —S.H. abv: 14.2% Price: $20

85 Inception 2010 Origin Chardonnay (San-ta Barbara County). Lots of oak in this wine.

With buttered toast and butterscotch flavors, it over-powers the underlying orange and lemon fruit, which isn’t strong enough to stand up under all that wood. —S.H. abv: 14.3% Price: $40

85 Luke Donald 2011 Chardonnay (Carne-ros). It’s oaky, leesy and creamy, with buttered

toast and caramel flavors dominating the pineapple fruit. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $30

85 Talley 2011 Estate Chardonnay (Arroyo Grande Valley). The wine is tart and pretty

thin in citrus and peach fruit, leaving the oak to stick out. Still, it does show fine elegance and minerality. —S.H. abv: 13.8% Price: $27

84 Angeline 2012 Chardonnay (California). For the price, you get just what you pay for with

this Chard. It’s honeyd and soft, with flavors of buttered toast and apricot-orange jam. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $12

84 Bravium 2010 Thomson Vineyard Char-donnay (Carneros). This Chard doesn’t taste

quite ripe. There’s a green pea note that compromis-es the citrus fruits and nectarines. Other than that, it’s nicely crisp and creamy. —S.H. abv: 14.3% Price: $24

84 Franciscan 2011 Cuvée Sauvage Char-donnay (Carneros). This wine comes across

as over-oaked and lacking balance. Hard to find much going on beyond buttered toast, caramel and pineapple jam. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $40

84 Jekel 2011 Gravelstone Chardonnay (Ar-royo Seco). With vibrant acidity and a kiss of

oak, this Chardonnay’s jammy apricot and orange flavors satisfy. It’s an easy wine to drink now with sandwiches, lightly sauced pasta dishes, shrimp salad. —S.H. abv: 14.4% Price: $16

83 10Span 2012 Chardonnay (Santa Barba-ra County). Pretty standard Chardonnay, with

a creamy texture and oaky tropical fruit flavors. Not bad for the price, if you’re in a Chard mood. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $13

WineMag.com | 23

82 Dreaming Tree 2011 Chardonnay (Cen-tral Coast). Simple and tart, with watery

Chardonnay-like flavors and a touch of oak. The finish is sweet in citrus fruits. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $15

82 Nickname 2011 Chardonnay (California). Pretty standard Chardonnay. Shows the wine’s

cream, buttered toast and fruit flavors, but in a thin, simple way. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $11

81 The Original Dark Horse 2011 Chardon-nay (California). A Chardonnay with buttered

toast, cream and peach flavors that turn watery on the finish. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $8

VIOGNIER

89 Fess Parker 2010 Rodney’s Vineyard Viognier (Santa Barbara County). Even

though there’s no new oak on this wine, it tastes oaky. Shows strong buttered toast and butterscotch flavors, with underlying tropical fruits, pears, white flowers and minerals. Very rich and thick, it can be an interesting substitute for a big, buttery Chardonnay. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $35

88 Borra 2012 Fusion White (Lodi). Borra’s Fusion is 90% Viognier and 10% Gewurztra-

miner and the two varieties bring out nice things in each other here, the floral aromas at the wine’s opening evolving into a crisp, soft, creamy center on the mid-pal-ate, a taste of citrus and honeydew standing out. —V.B. abv: 13.8% Price: $17

88 Wattle Creek 2011 Viognier (Alexander Valley). Lots of personality in this Viognier. It

has a meaty fleshiness, in addition to the peach pulp, orange and papaya fruit flavors, with fine acidity that makes it all feel clean and lively in the mouth. An inter-esting wine to pair with modern pan-Asian-fusion fare. —S.H. abv: 14.1% Price: $24

87 Luke Donald 2010 Sanford & Benedict Vineyard Viognier (Sta. Rita Hills). Shows

Viognier’s exotic side, with wildly flavorful tropical fruits, peaches, white flowers and honey, accented with smoky oak. It’s a little heavy, but fine for drinking now. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $36

85 Mounts 2011 Yeoman’s Vineyard Viog-nier (Dry Creek Valley). A simple Viognier.

Shows the exotic richness of the variety, with tropical fruits, white flowers and peaches, as well as plenty of sweet oak. The finish is quick. —S.H. abv: 14.8% Price: $16

84 Summerwood 2010 Viognier (Paso Ro-bles). The aromas and flavors of oak barrels

dominate this Viognier. The grapes bring some nice

tropical fruits, but they’re buried under flavors of but-tered toast, caramel and honey. —S.H. abv: 15.3% Price: $25

SAUVIGNON BLANC

92 Andis 2012 Sauvignon Blanc (Amador County). Andis’s Sauvignon Blanc is a lightly

textured and light in alcohol (12.5%) version of the wine that’s heady in aromatics, completely aswirl in perfume. In taste, expect exceptional layers of fig, white peach and candied ginger. Delicious and crisp, this white is worth stocking up on in good weather or bad. —V.B. abv: 12.5% Price: $19

90 Bougetz 2012 Sauvignon Blanc (Napa Valley). Lots of muscle in this punchy Sauvi-

gnon Blanc, with its ripe lemon, lime, orange and papa-ya flavors, made bright by crisp acidity. Despite a streak of honey, the finish is dry. Additional richness is pro-vided by barrel fermentation and the addition of a little Sémillon. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. abv: 14.4% Price: $24

90 Jack Nicklaus Wines 2011 Private Re-serve White (Napa Valley). A terrific white

wine, crisp and smooth in the mouth. The flavors are as complex as they come, offering waves of citrus and tropical fruits, peaches, honeysuckle, vanilla and but-tered toast. For all the upfront fruitiness, the finish is nice and dry. —S.H. abv: 14.4% Price: $40

90 Saracina 2012 Sauvignon Blanc (Men-docino County). Fresh and fruity, Saracina’s

offers tart citrus, white peach and a long-lasting, oaky backbone, with textured mouthfeel and a level of con-centration that calls out for food. —V.B. abv: 13.6% Price: $23

89 Angeline 2012 Sauvignon Blanc (Rus-sian River Valley). For full review see page 9.

abv: 13.9% Price: $15

89 Brutocao 2012 Feliz Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc (Mendocino). An exceptionally priced

Sauvignon Blanc from estate-grown fruit, Brutocao’s Feliz Vineyard offers pronounced aromatics, all honey-suckle and apricot. Floral, savory, even slightly salty, the fruit that will stand out most here is honeydew melon. The wine’s just-enough level of sweetness is reminiscent of nature’s best. Best Buy. —V.B. abv: 14.2% Price: $14

89 Mill Creek 2011 Estate Sauvignon Blanc (Dry Creek Valley). This crisp Sauvignon

Blanc shows how well the variety can perform in Dry Creek Valley. It offers lots of savory citrus, green grass, tropical fruit, honey and white pepper flavors. The acid-ity makes the mouth water. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $19

88 Charles Krug 2012 Sauvignon Blanc (St. Helena). A first-rate Sauvignon Blanc, delight-

ful to drink now for its crisp fruitiness. Lovely acids

highlight citrus, tropical fruit and gooseberry flavors that finish long and spicy. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $18

88 Di Arie 2012 Sauvignon Blanc (Lodi). A lush, creamy Sauvignon Blanc from Foothills

producer C.G. di Arie, which has traveled to Lodi here for its fruit. Full and rich, the wine has a pronounced taste of lime, especially on the finish. It is dry and crisp, ready for goat cheese and seafood. —V.B. abv: 14.3% Price: $18

88 Ma(i)sonry 2012 Hudson Vineyard Sans Chene Sauvignon Blanc (Napa Valley).

This unoaked Sauvignon Blanc has nothing to fall back on except the underlying quality of the grapes. It suc-ceeds, with rich citrus and tropical fruit, peach, honey, gooseberry and vanilla flavors. The acidity is brisk and cleansing. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $32

88 Margerum 2012 Sybarite Sauvignon Blanc (Happy Canyon of Santa Barbara).

Blended from several of Happy Canyon’s best vine-yards, this Sauvignon Blanc expresses the appellation’s essence. It’s rich and fruity in citrus and tropical fruits, with a honeyed richness and brisk acidity. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $21

88 Tower 15 2012 Sauvignon Blanc (Paso Robles). What a nice Sauvignon Blanc this is.

It’s crisp and delicately structured, with light, airy fla-vors of limes, dried hay, pineapple zest and white pep-per. —S.H. abv: 13.2% Price: $19

87 Francis Ford Coppola 2012 Director’s Cut Sauvignon Blanc (Sonoma Valley).

This is a good, everyday Sauvignon Blanc, brisk in acid-ity and rich in flavor. It offers ripe lemon, lime and mango flavors that finish long and spicy. The sweetness makes it companionable with Asian fare. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $21

87 Francis Ford Coppola 2012 Director’s Cut Sauvignon Blanc (Alexander Valley).

This fruity, juicy Sauvignon Blanc is easy to drink now with a wide variety of foods. Tart acidity brings bright-ness to the citrus and tropical fruit, green apple, honey and vanilla flavors. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $21

87 Horse & Plow 2012 Sauvignon Blanc (North Coast). Made from organic grapes,

Horse & Plow delivers another great vintage of Sauvi-gnon Blanc, subtle in aromatics at first, but very creamy in feel with lemon and vanilla highlights and a zingy finish. Fermented in mostly stainless steel, is exudes grapes grown in a cool climate. —V.B. abv: 13.9% Price: $20

87 Martin Ray 2012 Sauvignon Blanc (Napa Valley). An attractive Sauvignon Blanc that

shows plenty of varietal character. It’s light and brisk, with fine acidity highlighting citrus, green grass, white pepper, honey and vanilla flavors. Ideal with slight-


BUYINGGUIDEly sweet Vietnamese, Burmese and Cambodian fare. —S.H. abv: 13.8% Price: $20

87 Patianna 2011 Sauvignon Blanc (Men-docino). Crafted from organic grapes, this

creamy Mendocino Sauvignon Blanc has a great mouth-feel of apple, pear and stone fruit, a trace of citrus and vanilla playing in the background. With an abundance of minerality, the wine’s acidity lingers on the finish. —V.B. abv: 13.8% Price: $16

86 Baehner Fournier 2012 Vogelzang Vine-yard Sauvignon Blanc (Happy Canyon of

Santa Barbara). This 100% Sauvignon Blanc isn’t ful-ly ripe yet it’s dry and crisp, with a mouthwatering clean-ness. There’s an edge to the Meyer lemon, lime, green melon and vanilla flavors. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $26

86 Peju 2012 Sauvignon Blanc (Napa Val-ley). This is a sound Sauvignon Blanc, with

plenty of varietal character. It’s tastes of honey, grass and citrus flavors that are highlighted by brisk acidity. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $22

86 Purlieu 2012 Le Pich Sauvignon Blanc (Napa Valley). There’s a honeyed note to this

wine, yet it’s crisp in acidity, giving it a mouthwatering savoriness for drinking now. The flavors veer toward Asian pears, peaches and tart gooseberries. —S.H. abv: 13.8% Price: $24

85 Alysian 2012 Floodgate Vineyard North Face Sauvignon Blanc (Russian River

Valley). Underripe, with green grass, gooseberry aro-mas and flavors. Acidity is high and mouthwatering, and there is a core of orange honey that will have its fans. —S.H. abv: 14% Price: $20

85 Francis Coppola 2012 Yellow Label Sau-vignon Blanc (California). With sweet fla-

vors of honey, lemons and limes, this is a likeable Sau-vignon Blanc. A fine burst of citrusy acidity provides needed balance. —S.H. abv: 13% Price: $16

85 Martin Ranch 2009 Griva Vineyard Sauvi-gnon Blanc (Arroyo Seco). A simple Sauvi-

gnon Blance with apricot, pineapple and spice flavors. The acidity is bright and crisp, as you’d expect from this cool-climate Monterey region. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $28

85 Robert Mondavi 2012 Private Selection Sauvignon Blanc (Central Coast). Green

bell pepper and gooseberry notes dominate this Sauvi-gnon Blanc, although it does have notes of honey and Meyer lemons. It’s bright in acidity, and the finish is spicy and clean. For the price, it’s a good value. —S.H. abv: 12.5% Price: $11

85 Tin Barn 2012 Hi Vista Vineyard Sauvi-gnon Blanc (Carneros). Ripe fruit and vi-

brant acidity combine to make this an easy-drinking wine. It exhibits honey-drizzled lemon, orange and pear flavors, but the acidity saves the day. —S.H. abv: 13.7% Price: $18

84 Woodbridge by Robert Mondavi 2012 Sauvignon Blanc (California). For full re-

view see page 11. Best Buy. abv: 12.5% Price: $8

83 Quivira 2012 Fig Tree Vineyard Sauvi-gnon Blanc (Dry Creek Valley). Unripe

green notes of leaves detract from this wine’s enjoy-ment. It’s crisp in acidity, with some pure Meyer lemon, lime and fig flavors, but that vegetal note is bothersome. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $22

82 Cannonball 2012 Sauvignon Blanc (So-noma County). A thin, soft, slightly sweet

wine, with indistinct citrus and peach flavors. Not much going on, but it’s clean and drinkable. —S.H. abv: 13.2% Price: $15

82 J. Rickards 2012 Croft Vineyard Sauvi-gnon Blanc (Alexander Valley). Even in the

warm Alexander Valley, the grapes in this wine didn’t get fully ripe in this chilly vintage. There are strong notes of green mint. The wine is entirely dry and tart in acidity. —S.H. abv: 14.3% Price: $19

82 Quivira 2012 Sauvignon Blanc (Dry Creek Valley). The chilly vintage has given

this Sauvignon Blanc an unripe edge. There are notes of gooseberries alongside the lemons and limes. The finish is dry, but honeyed, and brightened with crisp acidity. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $15

81 Conspire 2012 Sauvignon Blanc (Ruth-erford). The winery’s Rutherford-grown Sauvi-

gnon Blanc needs warm vintages to ripen. The last time that happened was in 2009. The last three years have not been kind, and 2012 was chilliest yet, resulting in a wine that’s green and lean. —S.H. abv: 14.2% Price: $28

PINOT GRIS/GRIGIO

88 J Vineyards & Winery 2012 Pinot Gris (California). This is J’s best Pinot Gris in years.

It’s rich and focused, with bright acidity, a clean mouth-feel and complex orange, mango, honey and vanilla fla-vors. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. abv: 13.8% Price: $15

87 Kenwood 2012 Pinot Gris (Russian Riv-er Valley). With fresh, ripe lime, mango, white

pepper and vanilla flavors that are brightened with crisp acidity, this is a nice white wine to drink now. Perfect for sipping at the end of a long day. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $16

87 Martin Ray 2012 Pinot Gris (Russian Riv-er Valley). This brisk, fruity wine is for drink-

ing now. It has tart acidity and forward flavors of or-anges, Meyer lemons and pineapples. Easy to like for its clean, vibrant complexity and honeyed finish that make it a good companion for Asian fare. —S.H. abv: 13.2% Price: $16

87 Seghesio 2012 Pinot Grigio (Russian River Valley). This is an easy wine to like now

for its soft creaminess and honeyed citrus, pear, tropical fruit and brown sugar flavors. The alcohol is a refresh-ingly low 13.5% by volume. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $22

86 Robert Mondavi 2012 Private Selection Pinot Grigio (Central Coast). Pinot Grigios

like this helped make the variety one of America’s most popular wines. While it’s basically dry and crisp in acid-ity, it offers jammy green apple, lemon and lime Life-saver candy and vanilla notes that appeal to consumers. Best Buy. —S.H. abv: 12.5% Price: $11

85 10Span 2012 Pinot Gris (Monterey Coun-ty). A little fizzy and very fruity, with candied

orange, peach and green apple flavors. With a honey-date richness, it’s like a wine granola bar. —S.H. abv: 13% Price: $13

RIESLING

89 Trefethen 2012 Dry Riesling (Oak Knoll). This Riesling actually tastes off-dry, to judge by

the honey and vanilla bean sweetness that accompanies the citrus fruits. It’s brisk in acidity and refreshingly low in alcohol. Continues a string of successful, restaurant-fancy Rieslings from Trefethen. —S.H. abv: 12.5% Price: $23

88 Joyce 2012 Tondre Grapefield Riesling (Santa Lucia Highlands). This vineyard is

known for Pinot Noir, but the cool climate has yielded here a crisp, mouthwatering Riesling. Most California Rieslings have a touch of sweetness, but not this dry one, which accentuates the tartness of the grapefruits and limes. With some complexity, it’s a wonderful cock-tail sipper to get the evening started. —S.H. abv: 10% Price: $23

86 Jekel 2011 Riesling (Monterey). Made in a sweeter style, with white sugar-infused orang-

es, apples, limes and peaches marking the flavors. That wonderful Monterey acidity keeps it all sharp and fo-cused. —S.H. abv: 12.5% Price: $16

WHITE BLENDS

89 Atrea 2012 The Choir (Mendocino Coun-ty). Crisp and bright in lemon and apple, Atrea

also has a honeyed richness to it, especially on the finish. A blend of almost equal Roussanne and Viognier, the

WineMag.com | 25

latter comes from Lolonis’s very old, dry-farmed vines. Refreshing, this wine is begging for spicy food. —V.B. abv: 13.2% Price: $20

89 Steven Kent 2012 Lola Ghielmetti Vine-yard (Livermore Valley). From one of Ste-

ven Kent’s favorite Livermore Valley vineyards, Ghiel-metti, this vintage of Lola is 65% Sauvignon Blanc and 35% Sémillon, the SB picked first off the vineyard; the Sémillon last of the whites. Whole-cluster pressed, it is briny, with a marine-like influence of savory and steely characteristics. Rich, but not too rich, it’s freshened by notes of lemon and lime. —V.B. abv: 13.7% Price: $24

89 Borra 2012 Artist Series White (Lodi). Borra winemaker Markus Niggli, a Swiss native,

has gone back to his roots for this innovative blend of 85% Kerner and 15% Riesling, proving that some of the best experimentation in California is happening in plac-es like Lodi right now. Full of lively acidity, this wine is crisp, soft, sparkling with lime, apple, lychee and kiwi, easy to enjoy on a summer’s day or any other day. —V.B. abv: 13.5% Price: $18

88 Happy Canyon Vineyard 2011 Barrack Blanc (Happy Canyon of Santa Barbara).

A Sémillon-Sauvignon Blanc blend, this wine is brisk in acids, with a touch of cream and toast. But the star is the fruit. It’s rich and complex in lemons, limes and tan-gerines. —S.H. abv: 14.1% Price: $40

88 Stolpman 2011 Golden Point (Santa Ynez Valley). An unusual blend of Roussanne, Char-

donnay, Sauvignon Blanc and Viognier, this wine shows Stolpman’s growing mastery, as well as the success of mixing different grape varieties to make up for slight de-ficiencies in each. The result is a complete, wholesome, invigorating wine, brisk in acidity and luscious in orang-es, peaches and mangoes. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. abv: 14.1% Price: $19

87 Monte Volpe 2011 Primo Bianco (Men-docino County). This wine is a screaming

deal, like biting into a rich bite of apple with melon overtones chased with lemon on the long finish. A blend of Arneis, Cortese, Pinot Grigio, Sauvignon Blanc, Chenin Blanc and Tocai Friulano, stock up for an In-dian summer. Best Buy. —V.B. abv: 13.5% Price: $8

87 Sheldon 2012 Vinolocity Blanc (Sonoma Coast). Sheldon had been sourcing their Vino-

locity from Santa Barbara County, but they now turn to the Sonoma Coast, with improved results. Blended from Grenache Blanc, Roussanne and Viognier, and moderately oaked, it’s fine to drink now, with citrus, nectarine and vanilla flavors. —S.H. abv: 12.8% Price: $30

87 Volker Eisele Family Estate 2011 Gemi-ni (Napa Valley). This is the winery’s Graves-

style Sémillon-Sauvignon Blanc blend. It’s smoothly tex-

tured and a little soft, with citrus, herb and spice flavors that finish with a touch of toasty oak. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $25

84 Dreaming Tree 2012 Everyday White (Central Coast). Like the label says, this is an

everyday sort of wine. It’s crisp in acids and off-dry, with pleasant orange, pineapple, lemon and vanilla flavors. —S.H. abv: 12% Price: $15

84 Sanglier Cellars 2011 Blanc du Tusque (Sonoma County). This wine tastes more like

a barrel-fermented Sauvignon Blanc than a Rhône-style blend of 67% Viognier, 16.5% Marsanne and 16.5% Roussanne. It’s dryish to off-dry and crisp in acidity, with citrus fruit and green apple flavors. The oak is a little heavy. —S.H. abv: 13.9% Price: $22

84 Summerwood 2011 Diosa Blanc (Paso Robles). This Viognier, Marsanne and Rous-

sanne blend is the poster child for overoaked white wine. Buttered toast, butterscotch and caramel domi-nate the underlying tropical fruit, orange and lime fla-vors. Exceptionally high alcohol also adds to the impres-sion of unbalanced sweetness. —S.H. abv: 15.8% Price: $45

83 La Clarine Farm 2012 Nr. 2 White Blend (Sierra Foothills). Hmm. A blend of 50%

Sémillon from Amador County and 50% Viognier from El Dorado County that gives off much beyond a slight taste of Asian pear. Cloudy, it is also sharp and herbal. —V.B. abv: 12.2% Price: $20

OTHER WHITE WINES

92 Chappellet 2011 Signature Chenin Blanc (Napa Valley). A terrific Chenin, one of the

best California has ever produced, and one of the few that is a sheer pleasure to drink. It’s crisp in acidity, dry yet smooth and sweet in honey-infused citrus, peach, orange blossom and mineral flavors, and the finish is long and spicy. The wine saw no oak, but was aged in concrete eggs, which give it a creaminess that could almost be from oak. The grapes are from the winery’s estate vineyard, on Pritchard Hill. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $30

89 Andis 2012 Bill Dillian Vineyard Semillon (Amador County). Andis remains a name to

watch in Amador, producing consistently great reds and whites. Here, they’ve made an invitingly floral Semil-lon, only 12% alcohol, that’s light and bright in melon and fig with a richness on the mid-palate and a zesty finish. This will pair nicely with a range of equally light foods. —V.B. abv: 12% Price: $19

89 Mounts 2012 Roussanne (Dry Creek Val-ley). A lovely Roussanne. It is dry and complex,

with Chardonnay weight-bearing citrus and tropical

fruit, cashew, veal and cream flavors that are brightened with acidity. —S.H. abv: 14.2% Price: $24

88 Coghlan 2010 Tourmaline Grenache Blanc (Santa Ynez Valley). If you’re curious

about California Grenache Blanc, check out this one. It shows beautifully varietal flavors of oranges, pineapples and honey, with vital Santa Ynez acidity. So rich, it’s hard to believe it never saw any oak. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $24/375 ml

88 Lee Family Farm 2012 Albariño (Mon-terey). Morgan winemaker Dan Lee turns to

Albariño and his alternative family brand in this bot-tling. The brief period it spent in neutral oak shows up as mellowness, but the real stars are acidity and stimu-lating citrus and mango fruits. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $18

88 Mill Creek 2012 Estate Gewurztraminer (Dry Creek Valley). When so many winer-

ies have given up on Gewurz, it’s a pleasure to see Mill Creek sticking to it. The cool 2012 vintage was kind, yielding a dry, crisp, clean wine, with plenty of exotic fruit, flower and spice flavors. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $28

88 Mounts 2012 Marsanne (Dry Creek Val-ley). Has the acidity and citrusy sleekness of

Sauvgnon Blanc, but there’s something richly creamy and nutty about this Marsanne, a fleshiness that makes it distinctive. Try as an interesting alternative to an oaky Chardonnay. —S.H. abv: 14.2% Price: $24

87 Summerwood 2012 Grenache Blanc (Paso Robles). A nice interpretation of Gr-

enache Blanc. Blended with a drop of Viognier, it shows notes of orange and peach jam, honey, vanilla and toasty oak. The alcohol level is high. Drink up. —S.H. abv: 15% Price: $25

86 J. Rickards 2012 Sémillon (Russian Riv-er Valley). With a smooth, soft mouthfeel,

this wine has flavors of cashews, lanolin, citrus fruits and white flowers. It’s dry, but there’s a honeyed taste through the finish. It’s a little heavy in oak. Try as an exotic alternative to Chardonnay or Sauvignon Blanc. —S.H. abv: 14.2% Price: $22

86 Martin & Weyrich 2011 Allegro Moscato (California). For full review see page 10.

abv: 8.5% Price: $12

86 Seghesio 2012 Arneis (Russian River Valley). A tasty little sipper, built along Pinot

Grigio lines. It’s light-bodied and tart in acidity, with ripe pineapple, orange, vanilla and honey flavors. Great for picnics, the beach or as an appetizer with savory munchies. —S.H. abv: 13.3% Price: $22

83 Summerwood 2010 Alta Colina Vineyard Marsanne (Paso Robles). This wine has lit-


BUYINGGUIDEtle to do with Marsanne. It’s all about oak, with vanilla bean, buttered toast and caramel flavors. —S.H. abv: 15.4% Price: $40

SPARKLING WINES

93 Amuse Bouche 2004 Richard G. Peter-son Brut Rosé (Napa Valley). Legendary

vintner Dick Peterson made this rosé from 100% Pinot Noir grown at his vineyard in Yountville. It’s light, crisp and elegant, with intricately layered flavors of strawber-ries, raspberries, yeast, brioche and vanilla. The mousse is very fine, the finish long and complex. Even at the age of nine years, it’s nowhere near ready. Try after 2019. Cellar Selection. —S.H. abv: 12% Price: $175

91 Schramsberg 2006 Extra Brut (North Coast). A vintage-declared blend of 84% Pi-

not Noir and 16% Chardonnay, sourced mainly from Sonoma, with smaller amounts of grapes from Marin, Mendocino and Napa. This is a gorgeously mature spar-kler, dry and fragrant in apple tartine and raspberry aro-mas and flavors. It is beautiful and sophisticated, with a candied quality to the finish. —V.B. abv: 13.3% Price: $75

87 Vinum Cellars NV Bubbles Chenin Blanc (Clarksburg). Vinum has shaken up 100%

Clarksburg-area Chenin Blanc in this fun bottling, which is both bubbly and Cava-like in its smoothness and light aromatics. Balanced with a dry finish, though it contains 12 g/L of residual sugar, the tropical honey notes of this wine are very enjoyable, its acidity ready for goat cheese or seafood. —V.B. abv: 12.5% Price: $20

ROSÉS

91 Gary Farrell 2012 Russian River Selec-tion Rosé of Pinot Noir (Russian River

Valley). For full review see page 7. Editors’ Choice. abv: 13.4% Price: $28

90 La Clarine Farm 2012 Rosé (Sierra Foot-hills). La Clarine Farm’s rosé is slightly cloudy,

sourced mostly from Syrah grapes, with unusual addi-tions of Mourvèdre, Sémillon and Viognier. Winemak-er Hank Beckmeyer says the Syrah grapes barely rip-en and that’s why he likes them for this wine. Light at 12.8% alcohol, it’s an intriguing melange of earthy dark strawberry and mint, crisp in acidity. —V.B. abv: 12.8% Price: $17

89 Blackbird Vineyards 2012 Arriviste Rosé (Napa Valley). Surprisingly lithe for a Napa

rosé that’s made from Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc. It’s pretty dark in color, but feels fresh and clean, with penetrating raspberry jam, red currant and vanilla flavors. You could drink this on a hot sum-mer evening with barbecued steak. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $25

89 J Vineyards & Winery 2012 Vin Gris Rosé of Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). Some

Pinot Noir rosés can be heavy, but this one’s as light as silk. With a briskly tart, creamy texture framing straw-berry and date nut candy flavors, it’s an absolute delight. —S.H. abv: 14.3% Price: $20

89 Sanglier Cellars 2012 Rosé du Tusque (Sonoma County). This Rhône-style blend of

Grenache, Mourvèdre and Cinsault is a good followup to the winery’s 2011 vintage. It’s delicate and dry, with subtle dried fruit, herb and spice flavors, and the acid-ity is nice and crisp. What a tremendously versatile food wine. —S.H. abv: 12.9% Price: $18

88 Curtis 2012 Heritage Rosé (Santa Barba-ra County). This blush is a blend of Grenache,

Mourvèdre, Syrah and Cinsault, from the estate vine-yard in the Santa Ynez Valley. Tart and spicy in straw-berries and cherries, with something exotic, like papa-yas, it’s a lovely rosé. Versatile with so many different foods, and the price is fair. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. abv: 13.8% Price: $20

88 Horse & Plow 2012 Rosé (North Coast). Another satisfying Rosé from Horse & Plow,

which uses organically grown Carignane, Syrah and Gr-enache grapes for this wine. With refreshing acidity, it’s dry, bright in lime and grapefruit with spicy layers of strawberry and orange. —V.B. abv: 13% Price: $17

88 MacPhail 2012 Rosé of Pinot Noir (So-noma Coast). This is our first peek at

MacPhail’s 2012 Pinots, and to judge by it, they’ll be pretty good. The wine is dark in color and full-bodied for a rosé, with the weight and texture of Chardonnay. It’s enormously flavorful in raspberries, vanilla, honey and spices. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $22

88 Mounts 2012 Grenache Rosé (Dry Creek Valley). Very dry and a little austere, with sug-

gestions of cherry skins, citrus fruits and spices. The al-cohol is nice and low, while the acidity is brisk. A fine, elegant rosé, delicate and easy to drink. —S.H. abv: 13.2% Price: $16

88 Stepping Stone by Cornerstone 2012 Corallina Rosé of Syrah (Napa Valley). An

easy, fun rosé, with apricot, peach, orange and melon flavors, brightened with crisp acidity. The finish is nice and dry. —S.H. abv: 14.1% Price: $20

87 Isabel Mondavi 2012 Deep Rosé (Napa Valley). Like the 2011, the winery’s new vin-

tage is darker, richer and heavier than most other rosés out there. It’s not a delicate wine, but it is a very deli-cious one, offering waves of cherry pie, chocolate and vanilla flavors. —S.H. abv: 13.2% Price: $20

87 J. Rickards 2012 Bistro Table Rosé (So-noma County). Here’s a blush wine to wash

down everything from cold cuts and fried chicken to a platter of fruits de mer. It’s dark for a rosé, dry and full-bodied, with strawberry, persimmon, herb and spice fla-vors. The blend is the obscure grape Aleatico with Syr-ah. —S.H. abv: 13.2% Price: $20

87 Tower 15 2012 Sunset Rosé (Paso Ro-bles). With a pretty salmon-pink color, this

rosé is dry, crisp and delicate. They don’t tell us what the grape varieties are, but the flavors suggest orange rind, vanilla and peaches. —S.H. abv: 13.7% Price: $19

86 Peju 2012 Rosé of Syrah (Napa Valley). This 100% Syrah has a watermelon-pink color,

and it tastes like watermelon, too, with a squeeze of strawberry daiquiri. It finishes with a hint of sweetness. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $25

85 Martin & Weyrich 2011 Pink Allegro Moscato (California). For full review see

page 10. abv: 8% Price: $12

84 De Loach 2012 Olivet Bench Pinot Noir Rosé (Russian River Valley). Hews to a

sweeter style, at a time when the momentum for Cali-fornia rosé is swinging toward dry. The wine has simple raspberry jam, orange zest, vanilla and white sugar fla-vors. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $20

84 Quivira 2012 Rosé (Dry Creek Valley). The cold, uneven vintage gives this rosé a green,

New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc-style gooseberry aroma and flavor that makes it odd. There are some good wa-termelon and strawberry flavors, but it tastes unripe. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $19

CALIFORNIA RED WINES

PINOT NOIR

94 Freeman 2011 Keefer Ranch Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). A fabulous Pinot

Noir. It’s enormously complex, in the way of Keefer Ranch, with tart flavors of sour cherries, pomegranates and cranberries that indicate the cool vintage. There’s also lots of zesty acidity, and the finish is spicy and in-credibly long. Savory and succulent now, but it really needs time. Best after 2017. Cellar Selection. —S.H. abv: 14.1% Price: $48

94 MacPhail 2011 Dutton Ranch Pinot Noir (Green Valley). For full review see page 4.

abv: 14.5% Price: $49

WineMag.com | 27

94 Sheldon 2011 Roma’s Vineyard Pinot Noir (Anderson Valley). Sheldon’s Roma’s

Vineyard Pinot Noir is exquisite. Very light in color (and alcohol level at 12.9 percent), it opens with gorgeous raspberry and violet aromas. Fully satisfying from start to finish, it has a lush mouthfeel, cherry spice high tones and a long, easy finish that will tempt you to want more. This is a beautiful wine. Only 60 cases made. —V.B. abv: 12.9% Price: $48

93 Carpe Diem 2010 Pinot Noir (Anderson Valley). This Carpe Diem Pinot is made by Ar-

naud Weyrich, who also makes the Roederer wines in Anderson Valley, some of the best known to the region. So it’s no surprise this still wine is also stellar—earthy and mushroom-tinged, with a sexy mouthfeel, blue and red high tones of fruit and just a soft hint of spice. It’s also priced at the lower end for the Anderson Valley, making it a steal. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $33

93 Dierberg 2009 Steven Pinot Noir (Santa Maria Valley). The word impertinent should

probably never be used in a wine review, but it comes to mind with this one. It’s fresh and in your face right now, a wine that just doesn’t work in the refined company of, say, roast lamb or a fine grilled tenderloin of beef. There’s a huge heart of cherries and currants, and the balance of acids and tannins is superb. Clearly a cellar candidate. Wait until 2017 to pop the cork. Cellar Se-lection. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $65

93 Freeman 2011 Aikiko’s Cuvée Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). An outstanding Pinot Noir,

but a deceptive one. It’s flamboyant in raspberry, pome-granate and cherry jam flavors that are immediately de-licious, in the California style. Yet there are subtleties of mushrooms, herbs and minerals that give the wine true complexity. Your best bet is to allow this Pinot Noir to age for 7–8 years. Cellar Selection. —S.H. abv: 13.7% Price: $58

93 Joseph Phelps 2011 Freestone Vine-yards Estate Grown Pinot Noir (Sonoma

Coast). For full review see page 4. Cellar Selection. abv: 13.5% Price: $55

93 Marimar Estate 2009 Don Miguel Vine-yard Earthquake Block Unfiltered Pinot

Noir (Russian River Valley). For full review see page 4. Cellar Selection. abv: 14.9% Price: $47

92 Benovia 2010 Bella Una Pinot Noir (Rus-sian River Valley). Another dry, ageable Pi-

not from this fine winery. The light, silky texture and brisk acidity make it feel especially stimulating and easy. There’s tremendous weight to the red fruits and cur-rants. Give it 6–8 years in a good cellar. Cellar Selec-tion. —S.H. abv: 14.2% Price: $56

92 Benovia 2010 Cohn Vineyard Pinot Noir (Sonoma County). This bottling is proving to

be a consistent one for Benovia. The 2010 shows a silky

texture, bright in acids and complex in fruit. The fla-vors are indisputably cool-climate, with a tart cranberry edge to the raspberries, yet there’s a delicious sweetness throughout. Give it 6–8 years in the cellar. Cellar Se-lection. —S.H. abv: 14.1% Price: $65

92 Benovia 2010 La Pommeraie Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). Benovia’s been on a

roll lately with silky, tart young Pinot Noirs that have the balance to age. You’ll find complex pomegranate, rhubarb, sweet heirloom tomato and cherry flavors, wrapped into smooth tannins. The acids are standout bright, and will help the wine in the cellar. Should gath-er traction after 2016. Cellar Selection. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $56

92 EnRoute 2011 Les Pommiers Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). For full review see

page 5. Cellar Selection. abv: 14.5% Price: $65

92 Freeman 2011 Pinot Noir (Russian Riv-er Valley). A lovely Pinot Noir that shows fine

Russian River character. Made from some good vine-yards, including Keefer Ranch, it shows an elegant deli-ciousness of cherry and raspberry jam, cola and pome-granate flavors, touched with new oak. Silky and dry, this polished wine is good to drink now, and will hold for 6–8 years. —S.H. abv: 13.7% Price: $44

92 Fulcrum 2011 Gap’s Crown Vineyard Pi-not Noir (Sonoma Coast). There’s a sappi-

ness to this Pinot, a molasses-like richness that’s an indi-cation of extreme youth. It’s packed with pure, creamy plums, cherries and red currants, with hints of bacon and spices that add to the deliciousness factor. You’re best off cellaring this polished wine for 5–6 years, to let it start to mellow. Shows a welcome return to form for this bottling, after two tough vintages. Cellar Selec-tion. —S.H. abv: 14.2% Price: $57

92 MacPhail 2011 The Flyer Pinot Noir (Rus-sian River Valley). For full review see page 6.

abv: 14.1% Price: $59

92 Morgan 2011 Garys’ Vineyard Pinot Noir (Santa Lucia Highlands). Lighter in texture

and more delicately structured than Morgan’s past bot-tlings of Garys’ have been, no doubt due to the vintage. It’s a nearly half a percent lower in alcohol than the big, tannic 2009. The fruit is outstanding and delicious, as it always is from Garys’, offering waves of cherries, sweet persimmons and toast. Drink this beautiful wine any-time over the next six years. —S.H. abv: 13.9% Price: $54

92 Silver Trident 2010 Benevolent Dictator Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). For full

review see page 6. Cellar Selection. abv: 14.1% Price: $55

91 Freeman 2011 Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). This is one of Freeman’s basic 2011

Pinots, along with their Russian River Valley bottling, and a very good wine it is. Made from a variety of vine-yards in the big Sonoma Coast appellation, the wine is silky and tart in acidity, with cranberry, cola, raspberry jam and toasty oak flavors. The alcohol is low, making it a lovely food-friendly wine. Drink now–2019. —S.H. abv: 13.4% Price: $44

91 Fulcrum 2011 Brosseau Vineyard Pinot Noir (Chalone). A thick, rich Pinot, brood-

ingly closed despite a peacock’s tail of red berries and currants that fans out across the palate. It finishes long and spicy. While the tannins are significant, they’re soft and charming. It will not be surprising if this wine shows real development after 2016. Cellar Selection. —S.H. abv: 14.1% Price: $54

91 Fulcrum 2011 Wildcat Mountain Vineyard Pinot Noir (Carneros). So sweet and jammy,

it’s hard not to drink it up now, despite some firm tan-nins. Displays a rich spectrum of cherries, pomegran-ates and red currants, with exotic spices and the brown sugary sweetness of toasted oak. The finish is dry and elegant. A real beauty for drinking over the next five years. —S.H. abv: 14% Price: $54

91 Hanzell 2010 Pinot Noir (Sonoma Valley). This Pinot is too tart and tannic to drink now,

though it has great potential. You have to search for the fruit, but it’s there, in deeply hidden layers of cherries and red currants. Dry and stubborn now, but don’t give up. It will reward cellaring for a minimum of six years. Cellar Selection. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $95

91 Saracina 2011 Klindt Vineyard Pinot Noir (Anderson Valley). This is an elegant Pinot

Noir, aromatic in cherry and raspberry with juicy acidity and a memorable finish, understated in alcohol and too-ripe flavors. Earthy, enjoy it with lamb or pork smoth-ered in mushrooms and herbs. —V.B. abv: 13.6% Price: $NA

90 Calicaro 2010 Paris Mountain Lone Oak Vineyard Pinot Noir (Santa Lucia High-

lands). Good structure in this Pinot, with firm tannins and fine coastal acidity. It shows jammy raspberry, cher-ry and cola flavors whose sweetness is echoed by the toasty oak. It’s all a bit unresolved, but give it 5–6 years to knit together. Cellar Selection. —S.H. abv: 14% Price: $54

90 Chalk Hill 2011 Estate Pinot Noir (Rus-sian River Valley). Chalk Hill enters the Pi-

not game with this inaugural offering. It’s a fruity, spicy wine, rich in cherries and raspberries, with a light, silky texture. There’s an oaky note, but the finish is chiseled. A lovely wine for drinking over the next year or two. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $48

90 De Loach 2010 Durrell Vineyard Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). Right out of the

bottle, this single vineyard Pinot is rich. The flavors of raspberry and cherry pie, sprinkled with cinnamon and


BUYINGGUIDEbrown sugar, are delicious and direct. You can certainly drink it now, but the acid-tannin balance suggests the wine will develop and improve over the next 5–6 years. Cellar Selection. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $50

90 Francis Coppola 2011 Kylah’s Vineyard Reserve Pinot Noir (California). This is

Coppola’s best 2011 Pinot Noir, out of several produced under different brand names. It has a stylish mouthfeel of silk and satin that’s pure Pinot. Meanwhile, the flavors are lush, suggesting oak-influenced raspberries. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $38

90 Hanzell 2010 Sessions Vineyard Pinot Noir (Sonoma Valley). For full review see


90 Judson Hale Winery 2011 Walsh Ranch Pinot Noir (Yorkville Highlands). Light-

ly textured and velvety in feel, Judson Hale’s Yorkville Highlands Pinot Noir has a bigger fruit expression than many of its brethren from cooler parts of the nearby An-derson Valley, with ripe red fruit front and center and a big, slightly woody finish. —V.B. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA

90 Maldonado 2011 Los Olivos Pinot Noir (Napa Valley). This is a rich, robust Pinot

Noir, defining the big, tannic style. It explodes in cherry, cola and pomegranate fruit flavors, with the added note of caramelized oak. You can drink this wine now, but it should hold in the bottle for 6–8 years, gradually mel-lowing. The vineyard is in the cooler southern part of the valley, near Carneros. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $42

90 Maldonado 2011 Parr Vineyard Pinot Noir (Sonoma County). Lots to like in this

vibrant young Pinot. It’s silky yet has some weight to it, with layers of cherry jam, cola and a spicy meatiness. Should develop interest over the next 5–6 years, but you can certainly drink it now. —S.H. abv: 14.1% Price: $32

89 Foursight 2010 Charles Vineyard Pinot Noir (Anderson Valley). This Foursight Pi-

not is one of two, in amount of oak used (40% new oak in this case).This is light in color, earthy with mush-room-y spice tones and a darker fruit and oak expres-sion than other, lighter-styled Anderson Valley Pinots. The vineyard is closer to Boonville and thereby typically warmer than the valley’s Deep End. —V.B. abv: 14.1% Price: $46

89 Foursight 2010 Charles Vineyard, Zero New Oak Pinot Noir (Anderson Valley).

The no new oak-version of Foursight’s Charles Vineyard Pinot Noir, this one is brighter in cherry and raspberry fruit, with dialed-up acidity. It may be the better sipping wine, but will also pair deliciously with a roast pork or chops, lightly dusted in herbs. —V.B. abv: 14.1% Price: $38

89 Laetitia 2011 Reserve du Domaine Pinot Noir (Arroyo Grande Valley). Brisk, citrusy

acidity acts as a lever to the raspberry and cherry fruit flavors, lifting them to bright zestiness. The wine is a vintner’s blend of barrels from across the large vineyard. There’s a jammy directness that makes it instantly tasty, but it’s not an ager. Drink now. —S.H. abv: 14.3% Price: $40

89 Laetitia 2010 La Coupelle Pinot Noir (Ar-royo Grande Valley). The raspberry jam, mo-

cha and toasty oak flavors of this block selection from the estate vineyard make the wine especially delicious. It shows the brisk acidity of the Arroyo Grande, with a light, silky texture and a brown sugary finish. Not an ager, so drink soon for the sheer fruity opulence. —S.H. abv: 14.7% Price: $60

89 Martin Ray 2011 Reserve Pinot Noir (Santa Cruz Mountains). This is a very nice

Pinot, with some special qualities to recommend it. It’s crisp yetsilky, with pleasantly complex cherry, rhubarb and pomegranate fruit, touched with oak. Doesn’t have the stuffing for aging, so drink up. Great with char-broiled steak. —S.H. abv: 13.2% Price: $40

89 Patz & Hall 2011 Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). Shows good Sonoma Coast character

in the tart acids and cool-climate flavors of pomegran-ates, cherries and cola. Lots of new French oak adds rich notes of buttered toast and smoke. Appealingly dry, it’s a fancy, elegant wine from this fine producer, but finishes a little short. Drink over the next 2–3 years. —S.H. abv: 14.2% Price: $45

88 Bougetz 2011 Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). A fine, solid Pinot, showing the tart

acidity, delicate silkiness and tight structure of the coast, in a wine to drink now. The flavors are flashy and com-plex, with sour cherry candies, cranberries and toasty oak. —S.H. abv: 13.8% Price: $38

88 Foley 2010 Bar Lazy S Ranch Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). Brisk lime acidity gives the

raspberry, cherry and currant liqueur flavors a bright mouthfeel. Oak brings richness and additional tannins. The wine is dry and elegant, with complex flavors to drink over the next few years. Give it some time in a decanter. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $55

88 Gallo Signature Series 2011 Pinot Noir (Santa Lucia Highlands). Lots of savory

raspberry and cherry pie flavors in this soft, slightly heavy Pinot Noir. Oak barrel aging shows up as rich notes of buttered toast. It’s a flashy, opulent wine for drinking now. —S.H. abv: 14.2% Price: $35

88 Joyce 2011 Tondre Grapefield Pinot Noir (Santa Lucia Highlands). This is a red wine

for white wine drinkers. It’s silky and vibrantly crisp in acidity, like a Sauvignon Blanc, except the flavors are

pure Pinot, suggesting sour cherry candy, persimmons and tart cranberries. Drink now–2017. —S.H. abv: 13.9% Price: $35

88 Thomas Fogarty 2011 Pinot Noir (Santa Cruz Mountains). This young Pinot, which is

Fogarty’s most basic, is delicious now, but the tannins are strong enough to warrant a year or two of aging. It’s a pretty wine, smooth and tart in acids, with cranberry and rhubarb fruits that veer into sweeter notes of cherry jam. —S.H. abv: 12.9% Price: $35

87 Block Nine 2012 Caiden’s Vineyards Pi-not Noir (California). This is a Pinot Noir that

does just what Pinot should do. It’s dry, silky and light in alcohol, with subtle cherry skin, cranberry, persimmon, cola and tobacco flavors. A great value. —S.H. abv: 13.1% Price: $13

87 Coghlan 2010 Sapphire La Encantada Pi-not Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). This Pinot Noir is

ripe and forward in raspberries, cherries and toasty, car-amelized oak. It shows fine Santa Rita acidity and silki-ness and is delicious, if a bit one-dimensional. Drink up. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $47

87 Fess Parker 2011 Bien Nacido Vineyard Pinot Noir (Santa Barbara County). A

good Pinot, bracing in acidity, with rich black raspberry jam, cola and sandalwood flavors. It’s light and silky in the mouth, with brown sugar through the finish. Ready to drink now. —S.H. abv: 14.1% Price: $55

87 Fess Parker 2011 Clone 115 Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). A simple Pinot Noir, with

strawberry and raspberry jam, toffee and brown sugar flavors. Very finely structured and delicious, like the wine equivalent of a granola candy bar. Soft and silky, it’s perfect for drinking now. —S.H. abv: 14.1% Price: $55

87 Francis Coppola 2011 Director’s Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). This is one of Cop-

pola’s least expensive Pinots, but it’s also one of the prettiest. Hard not to like the light, silky texture and savory raspberry, cranberry and cola flavors. Great to drink now with beef, lamb, mushroom risotto. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $21

87 Francis Ford Coppola 2011 Director’s Cut Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). A

bit rugged in texture, with some sharpness but there’s plenty of jammy raspberry, cranberry and smoky oak flavor, and the mouthfeel is smooth and silky. Ready to drink now. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $27

87 Gracianna 2011 Bacigalupi Vineyard Pi-not Noir (Russian River Valley). An ele-

gant, silky Pinot, but tightly wound, with tart acidity and some heat from alcohol. It’s almost sweet in raspberry

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jam and red currants, but finishes spicy. Drink over the next two years. —S.H. abv: 14.8% Price: $48

87 Laetitia 2011 Clone 777 Pinot Noir (Ar-royo Grande Valley). This appealingly jam-

my wine is rich in red cherries and raspberries. The fruitiness is the main attraction, fortunately balanced by crisp acidity, gentle tannins and the smoky structure that oak barrel aging brings. Drink this racy, silky Pinot now. —S.H. abv: 14.2% Price: $32

87 Laetitia 2010 La Colline Pinot Noir (Ar-royo Grande Valley). This hillside block bot-

tling off the winery’s large estate is a rich wine, dynamic in acids and tannins, with the fruity concentration young Laetitia Pinots show. It’s quite oaky, and the alcohol is nice and low. The drawback is a touch of bitterness with raisiny overripeness, which will limit ageability. Drink up. —S.H. abv: 13.8% Price: $60

87 Parducci 2011 Small Lot Blend Pinot Noir (California). For the price this is a fairly satis-

fying and straightforward Pinot Noir from Mendocino-based Parducci, though not all of the fruit appears to come from the county. Soft, with integrated tannins and a taste of cherry pie, it also has a hint of earth and oak on the finish. —V.B. abv: 13.5% Price: $14

87 Passaggio 2011 Unmarked code seven Fagan Creek Pinot Noir (Napa Valley).

Ripe and heavy, with raspberry and cherry jam, cola, green herb and oak flavors that finish spicy. The grapes are from Jameson Canyon, outside Calistoga. A good wine, but not going anywhere, so drink up. —S.H. abv: 13.9% Price: $45

87 Patz & Hall 2010 Pisoni Vineyard Pinot Noir (Santa Lucia Highlands). A strong,

extracted Pinot, lacking delicacy and finesse. It’s enor-mous in jammy raspberries, cherries and liqueur, with plenty of sweet, toasty oak. High alcohol gives it a full body and a taste of glyceriney sweetness. Many will like its power and flash. Drink it over the next few years. —S.H. abv: 14.9% Price: $85

87 Schug 2011 Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). Low in alcohol and earthy with suggestions

of cherry skin, tart rhubarb and persimmon flavors. There’s a gentle touch of sweet oak, as well as plenty of mouthwatering acidity. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $24

86 Coghlan 2010 Diopside Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). Doesn’t taste quite ripe, as is the

case with some 2010 Pinots due to the chilly season. There’s a minty, green sharpness to the raspberries and cherries. Nicely silky but not an ager, so drink up. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $40

86 Fess Parker 2011 Pommard Clone Pinot Noir (Santa Barbara County). Raspberry

jam and oak are the flavors of this drink-me-now wine. Brisk acidity gives it a mouthwatering cleanness. The single-clone angle has resulted in a certain one-dimen-sionality. —S.H. abv: 13.6% Price: $55

86 Francis Ford Coppola 2011 Votre Santé Pinot Noir (California). A nice starter Pinot

for the price. Will introduce newcomers to the variety’s light, silky texture and savory berry and spice flavors, touched with smoky oak. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $14

86 Laetitia 2011 Clone 113 Pinot Noir (Ar-royo Grande Valley). Lots of early-drinking

charm in this Pinot Noir. It’s light and silky, with a mod-est alcohol level that makes it easy to drink. The rasp-berry, cherry, cola and oak flavors are delicious. —S.H. abv: 13.7% Price: $32

86 Paul Dolan 2010 Pinot Noir (Potter Val-ley). A straightforward Pinot Noir from Men-

docino’s inland Potter Valley, the wine is dominated by a layer of spearmint that overcomes the more nuanced flavors of cherry and raspberry. —V.B. abv: 14% Price: $30

86 Wild Horse 2011 Unbridled Pinot Noir (Santa Barbara County). This drinkable Pi-

not does have a tannic toughness. On the palate, there are good notes of cherry and cola, but hints of green unripeness compromise its future. Give it a good decant and drink now. —S.H. abv: 14.1% Price: $35

86 Wild Horse 2010 Cheval Sauvage Pinot Noir (Santa Maria Valley). Tastes heavy and

soft, with syrupy black cherry and brown sugar flavors. There’s some wintergreen in there, too, that provides a jarringly tart note. Doesn’t seem like an ager, so drink up. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $60

85 Baileyana 2010 Grand Firepeak Cuvee Pinot Noir (Edna Valley). Tart in acidity and

pure in jammy raspberries and cherries, this is a Pinot to drink now. It shows the variety’s lightly tannic, silky tex-ture. Hints of unripeness develop in the finish. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $30

85 Inception 2010 Pinot Noir (Santa Barbara County). You’ll find plenty of Pinot Noir char-

acter in this wine, which is ultimately simple and for drinking now. It’s silky in the mouth, with crisp acids framing cherry, cranberry, cola and oak flavors. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $25

85 Jigar 2010 Pinot Noir (Russian River Val-ley). The silkiness and complexity of this wine

are notable. The flavors are wonderful, with raspberry jam, pomegranates and persimmons subtlely touched by oak. There’s a lot of acidity, but drink up, as this is not likely to age. —S.H. abv: 13.8% Price: $32

84 De Loach 2011 Pinot Noir (Central Coast). This Pinot has a cutting edge of cit-

rusy acidity. On the plus side, it’s also silky, with pleasant cherry candy, cola and oak flavors. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $20

84 Francis Coppola 2011 Diamond Collec-tion Pinot Noir (Monterey County). This

is a light, simple Pinot Noir. It’s not quite ripe, with a mushroomy edge to the cherries, cola and rhubarb. At the same time, it’s silky, and fine for drinking now. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $18

84 Piedra Creek 2010 San Floriano Vineyard Pinot Noir (San Luis Obispo). This is a sim-

ple, easy-drinking Pinot for drinking now. It tastes like a juicy blend of cherries, pomegranates and cola, with just enough acidity for balance. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $32

83 10Span 2011 Pinot Noir (Santa Barbara County). Some overripe and green notes di-

lute the cherries of this Pinot. It’s dry and silky, a sound wine for drinking now. —S.H. abv: 14% Price: $15

82 Inception 2010 Pinot Noir (Central Coast). A dull Pinot, soft and not quite ripe.

There’s a vegetal aroma and taste to the raspberries and oak. —S.H. abv: 14.3% Price: $20

82 Wild Horse 2011 Pinot Noir (Central Coast). Simple, tart and thin, with cherry can-

dy and oak flavors, as well as plenty of unripe green, vegetal ones. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $20

81 Jekel 2011 Pinot Noir (Santa Barbara County). Thin and reedy, with cherry tea, cola

and green herb, vegetal flavors. Drink up. —S.H. abv: 14.1% Price: $18

SYRAH/SHIRAZ

92 Fess Parker 2010 Rodney’s Vineyard Syrah (Santa Barbara County). For full re-

view see page 5. Cellar Selection. abv: 14.9% Price: $49

92 Stolpman 2011 Originals Syrah (Santa Ynez Valley). The grapes come from the old-

est portion of the estate vineyard, in the emerging Bal-lard Canyon area, which is not yet an appellation but should be. This is a fabulous Syrah, rich, full-bodied and delicious in black cherry, bacon, mocha and caramelized oak flavors. Enjoy it young, while it’s fresh and fruity. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $38

91 Peju 2010 Syrah (Napa Valley). This Syrah contains some Cabernet Sauvignon, which gives

it a solid edge of hard tannins. It’s finely constructed and complex, with ripe, elaborate blackberry, black currant,


BUYINGGUIDEgrilled meat, pepper and sandalwood flavors. Tight and young, it will begin to resolve its internal difficulties by 2015. Cellar Selection. —S.H. abv: 14.8% Price: $32

91 Stolpman 2011 Gli Angeli (Santa Ynez Valley). It doesn’t say so on the label, but this is

100% Syrah. It’s massively rich and extracted in cherries and blackberries, with smooth tannins and a fine burst of acidity. Give it 5–6 years to let everything begin to knit together. Cellar Selection. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $68

90 Fess Parker 2011 Syrah (Santa Barbara County). For full review see page 8. Editors’

Choice. abv: 14.9% Price: $28

90 Tin Barn 2009 Coryelle Fields Vineyard Syrah (Sonoma Coast). A super-delicious

candy bar of a wine, with melted blackberry jam, milk chocolate and cassis liqueur flavors, sprinkled with black pepper and star anise. There’s a brown sugar quality, but the finish actually is dry. Great price for a wine held back long enough by the producer to begin to soften and mellow. Drink now–2018. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. abv: 15.4% Price: $25

89 Wattle Creek 2010 Vintage Select Shiraz (Alexander Valley). A huge, thick Syrah that

couldn’t possibly be fruitier. It explodes in blackberry and cherry jam, dark chocolate and toasty oak flavors, wrapped into sturdy tannins, leading to a finish of brown sugar and spices. Not for the faint-hearted, but a seri-ously great barbecue wine. —S.H. abv: 14.8% Price: $45

88 Hall 2010 Darwin (Napa Valley). Super-extracted in blackberry jam, black currant li-

queur, mocha and sweet, caramelized oak flavors, this 100% Syrah pays homage to Austrailan Shiraz. It’s very high in alcohol. Not showing much subtlety, but im-presses for sheer power. Drink up. —S.H. abv: 15.7% Price: $50

88 Peju 2009 Syrah (Napa Valley). This is a big, robust Syrah, as chewy as a piece of grilled

steak, as delicious as blackberry jam. You find both those flavors, along with a spectrum of dark chocolate, Cana-dian bacon, heady black currant liqueur, black pepper and sandalwood. It’s pretty tannic, but you can drink it now, after a few hours of breathing. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $32

87 Calicaro 2010 Les Fauves White Hawk Vineyard Syrah (Santa Barbara). Good

and dry, with tough tannins that make it hard to drink now. With blackberry, currant, molasses and dark choc-olate flavors, it seems like an ager, but may not have the concentration for the long haul. Try again in 2–3 years. —S.H. abv: 14.2% Price: $50

86 Pace 2010 Syrah (Santa Ynez Valley). Shows ripe blackberry, grilled meat, white pep-

per and oak flavors, wrapped into the smooth tannins

that Santa Ynez Valley Syrahs usually have. The finish is properly varietally spicy, though there are limiting fac-tors of green notes and excessive acidity. —S.H. abv: 13.8% Price: $24

86 Summerwood 2009 Alta Colina Vineyard Syrah (Paso Robles). The California style of

sweetly ripe fruit and softness is the star of this Syrah. It’s fantastically rich in milk chocolate and black cherry jam flavors. The alcohol is a heady 16.6% by volume. —S.H. abv: 16.6% Price: $75

85 Baldassari Family Wines 2010 Nolan Vineyard Syrah (Bennett Valley). Baldas-

sari’s 2010 is rich in blackberries, currants, mocha and crispy bacon, but the texture is off. Drink up. —S.H. abv: 14.7% Price: $24

83 Kasuari 2010 Syrah (Napa Valley). Marred by aggressively hard tannins and acids, this Syr-

ah’s berry-cherry flavors finish thin and bitter, with a green edge. The chilly vintage took its toll. Drink up. —S.H. abv: 14.1% Price: $39

83 Stickybeak 2010 Syrah (Monterey Coun-ty-Napa County). This is a simple, sweetly

fruity wine, more Shiraz than Syrah, with jammy black-berry and blueberry flavors. Napa brings ripeness, while Monterey brings acidity. Drink up. —S.H. abv: 14.7% Price: $20

PETITE SIRAH

88 J. Rickards 2010 Brown Barn Vineyard Petite Sirah (Alexander Valley). Like Petite

Sirah’s rustic power? You’ll love this lusty wine. It’s dark, tannic and dry, with massive blackberry, blueberry, dark chocolate and oak flavors that finish with hints of bacon and black pepper. Will age forever, but your window is now and through 2018. —S.H. abv: 14.8% Price: $24

87 Kasuari 2010 Petite Sirah (Napa Valley). Shows Petite Sirah’s bigtime tannins, with very

ripe, voluptuous Napa fruit flavors of blackberries, cas-sis liqueur and dark chocolate, and deliciously compli-cating notes of bacon and sandalwood. A lovely wine, but seems too soft to age. Drink up. —S.H. abv: 14.1% Price: $49

87 Mounts 2010 Petasera Estate Grown Pe-tite Sirah (Dry Creek Valley). Textbook So-

noma Petite Sirah, midnight black in color, high in al-cohol and enormously thick in blackberry, cassis and chocolate, with a bacony, funky note of cured meat. It’s delicious now with richly-flavored meats and cheeses. —S.H. abv: 15.2% Price: $35

84 Prager 2007 Petite Sirah (Napa Valley). Petite Sirah’s big tannins are here, though the

blackberry fruit notes are diluted. Not going anywhere, so drink up. —S.H. abv: 15% Price: $22

ZINFANDEL

92 Bella 2010 Block 10 Zinfandel (Russian River Valley). For full review see page 5.

abv: 15.7% Price: $45

91 Bella 2010 Maple Vineyards Zinfandel (Dry Creek Valley). This Zin wants two or

three years to round off the jagged edges. There’s a lot going on, from the supple blackberry, leather and pep-per flavors, wildly exotic spices and smooth tannins to an undefinable earthy-mineral taste that must come from the soil. There’s some burn from alcohol, as Zins from the Maple Vineyards tend to exhibit. Cellar Selection. —S.H. abv: 14.8% Price: $40

91 J. Rickards 2010 1908 Brignole Vineyard Old Vine Zinfandel (Alexander Valley).

This is the kind of Zinfandel sometimes describe as clar-et-like, which is a great compliment. It’s dry, smoothly tannic and complex, with berry, currant, dark chocolate, herb, spice, mineral and sandalwood flavors. Feels real-ly fine all the way through, a wine to savor as it changes in the glass. Great value for the price. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. abv: 14.9% Price: $25

90 B.R. Cohn 2010 Olive Hill Estate Vine-yards Zinfandel (Sonoma Valley). This

Zinfandel is high in alcohol, soft and alluring. It takes Zin’s briary, brambly personality and whips it into Cab-ernet-like balance. There are varietally correct berry-cherry flavors, containing a touch of raisins, chocolate and lots of exotic spices. —S.H. abv: 15.3% Price: $38

89 Bella 2010 Barrel 32 Zinfandel (Sonoma County). Nothing subtle about this Zin, which

offers a heady blast of grilled raspberries and cherries. It’s a robust wine, with lots of alcohol and spices and a rich finish. This is your go-to summer barbecue wine. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $55

89 Bella 2010 Big River Ranch Zinfandel (Al-exander Valley). Defines a Dry Creek Valley

style of Zinfandel, with high alcohol, a heady full-bod-iedness, and massive flavors of wild berries, currants, raisins, spices and earthy elements. Drink it over the next 3–4 years, before the fruit starts to turn. —S.H. abv: 14.7% Price: $40

88 B.R. Cohn 2010 Zinfandel (Sonoma Val-ley). Classic Sonoma Valley Zin, rich and ripe

in berries, currants and raisins, warming in alcohol, and with savory spices. The finish is nice and dry. A great, upscale partner for barbecue. —S.H. abv: 15.2% Price: $28

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88 J. Rickards 2010 Voigt Family Vineyards Zinfandel (Dry Creek Valley). Just what

a Dry Creek Zin should be. It’s dry, furry in tannins, heady in alcohol and with enough acidity to give bright-ness to the wild berry, currant, dark chocolate, tobacco and spice flavors. Classic in its way, and nice to drink now. —S.H. abv: 15.2% Price: $24

88 Mounts 2011 Estate Grown Zinfandel (Dry Creek Valley). There’s some complexity

to this Zin despite the fact that it’s high in alcohol. The berry-cherry fruit is restrained, exhibiting all kinds of earthy and mineral notes. —S.H. abv: 14.8% Price: $20

88 Paul Dolan 2010 Zinfandel (Mendocino County). Paul Dolan Zin remains big with sa-

vory flavors beef jerky, roast meat and black pepper. Not overdone in alcohol or tannin, its a perfect go-to for nights around the grill and will please a crowd. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $25

88 Sobon Estate 2011 Old Vines Zinfandel (Amador County). For full review see page

11. Best Buy. abv: 14.9% Price: $13

88 Sobon Estate 2010 Lubenko Vineyard Zinfandel (Fiddletown). Opening with aro-

mas of baked blackberry compote, this Fiddletown Zin is thick in tannin and savory leather, oak and smoke, but delivers fully on its Zinfully hedonistic promise. On the finish, a bite of licorice. —V.B. abv: 15.2% Price: $22

87 Collier Falls 2010 Hillside Estate Zinfan-del (Dry Creek Valley). Made in a richer,

riper style, this Zin brims with flavors of raspberries, cherries, red currants and brown sugar, like a Christmas fruitcake. The alcohol is quite high. Drink soon. —S.H. abv: 15% Price: $36

87 Leese-Fitch 2011 Zinfandel (California). There’s an honesty to this Zin. It is an upfront,

robust wine to drink now with pleasure. Peppery, it has solid flavors of wild berries, currants, crisped bacon and pepper. Best Buy. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $12

87 Sobon Estate 2010 Cougar Hill Zinfan-del (Amador County). Fully developed in

red fruit and mountainous tannins, the highlight of So-bon’s Cougar Hill is its long, spicy finish, succulent and mouthwateringly ready for a hunk of barbecued meat to follow. —V.B. abv: 14.9% Price: $18

87 Three 2010 Old Vines Zinfandel (Con-tra Costa County). From old Contra Costa

County vines, the Three wines are made by Matthew Cline of Cline Cellars, whose family has long plowed these dry-farmed fields (and where he was the wine-maker for almost two decades). This wine is chock a block in dense black cherry, coffee and cinnamon spice.

Though its tannins are reserved, its overall presence is not. This peppery wine is big. —V.B. abv: 15.4% Price: $20

85 C.G. di Arie 2007 Southern Exposure Zin-fandel (Shenandoah Valley). The South-

ern Exposure wines come from the original Grandpere Vineyard planted well over a hundred years ago. In this expression the wine shows olive, tar brick and leather qualities and is juicy if not a touch disheveled, with a long spicy finish. —V.B. abv: 14.4% Price: $35

85 Di Arie 2009 American Legend Zinfandel (Shenandoah Valley). An unusual Zinfan-

del, with 10% Cabernet Franc mixed in, American Leg-end is from Frank Gunther’s Vineyard in California’s Shenandoah Valley (the Zin is anyway; the Cab Franc is estate). Smooth with a background of smoky berry flavor, it suggests sweet tarts mid-palate, and a taste of chocolatey vanilla on the finish. —V.B. abv: 14.8% Price: $30

85 Shenandoah 2011 Special Reserve Zin-fandel (California). A value-priced Califor-

nia Zin from the folks at Sobon in Amador County, this wine is jammy in blackberry flavor, meaty with traces of tobacco. While the finish is long it’s also piqued with a taste of high alcohol. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $11

85 Sobon Estate 2010 ReZerve Primitivo (Amador County). A burly Primitivo with

spicy blackberry fruit, this is an intense wine with lay-ers of smoke and oak to offer those who like a wine that not only pairs with a slab of meat but almost tastes like one. —V.B. abv: 15.2% Price: $24

84 J. Rickards 2010 Ancestor Selections Zinfandel (Alexander Valley). Overripeness

gives this Zin the raisiny, pruny taste of port, but being dry, it doesn’t have port’s saving grace of sweetness. It’s also very tannic. High alcohol and dessicated fruit de-fine it. —S.H. abv: 14.9% Price: $24

84 Mounts 2010 Old Vines Estate Grown Zinfandel (Dry Creek Valley). This is a rus-

tic Zinfandel. It’s hot in alcohol, with overripe notes of raisins and prunes. Robust and satisfying, in a porty way. —S.H. abv: 15.2% Price: $30

84 Three 2011 Zinfandel (Contra Costa County). From the old fields of Oakley, this

Zinfandel, made by Matt Cline, is big in black fruit and a touch of smoke, particularly vibrant on the fin-ish. —V.B. abv: 15.4% Price: $16

83 Delta Landing 2011 Zinfandel (Lodi). This is a big, smoky Lodi Zinfandel, explosively jam-

my and thick with bacon flavor. —V.B. abv: 13% Price: $15

83 Dogwood 2010 Sargentini Vineyard Zin-fandel (Mendocino). This old-vine Zinfandel

also has Carignane and Petite Sirah and is full of red fruit and decent spice but it falls flat under the weight of alcohol on the finish. —V.B. abv: 15.4% Price: $34

83 Zinfandelic 2011 Old Vine Zinfandel (Si-erra Foothills). A dusty Amador County-dom-

inant old-vine Zinfandel with plenty of spicy berry, mo-cha and licorice flavor. Packaged in a psychedelically in-spired label, it’ll go down easy on those late-night when listening to music is the best thing to do and plenty of barbecued meat is lying around. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $20

82 Sorelle Winery 2011 Sorriso Primitivo (Lodi). This Primitivo gives off both ripe and

green characteristics with a finish of vanilla, but it also comes off as slightly burnt. —V.B. abv: 14.9% Price: $22

80 Moss Roxx 2010 Ancient Vine Zinfandel (Lodi). In possibly the world’s heaviest bottle

comes this heavy Ancient Vine Zinfandel, greasy in ba-con fat flavor, plus-sized in every way with a taste of sweet cigar smoke from beginning to end. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $23

CABERNET SAUVIGNON

95 Jarvis 2007 Estate Grown Cave Ferment-ed Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley).

For full review see page 3. Cellar Selection.abv: 14.1% Price: $130

94 Hawkes 2008 Stone Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon (Alexander Valley). A beautiful

Cabernet, delightful to drink now and ageable. It offers a peacock’s tail of sweet blackberries, cassis and dark, bitter chocolate, with oaky complications. Balance is steadfastly maintained through a structural triad of low alcohol, soft tannins and a gentle scour of acidity. Now–2020. Cellar Selection. —S.H. abv: 13.8% Price: $65

94 M by Michael Mondavi 2009 Caber-net Sauvignon (Napa Valley). Expensive,

yes, but defines the soft, luxurious modern style of ex-treme deliciousness. Made with a drop of Petit Verdot that seems to add depth, the wine is fantastically rich in blackberry, blueberry and cherry jam, chocolate and sweet oak. The tannins are a wonder, and there’s just enough acidity to give a balanced tang. Will it age? Yes, but for how long is the question. Beautiful now and through 2019. Cellar Selection. —S.H. abv: 14.3% Price: $200

94 Mount Veeder 2009 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon (Mount Veeder). A lovely Cab-

ernet, smoky and rich, tannic and elegant, with the com-plexity and concentration that define Mount Veeder. With its smooth, velvety texture, cassis liqueur and new oak flavors, it’s as flashy as anything out there. The wine-maker has done a great job of blending in Malbec and


BUYINGGUIDEPetit Verdot to create a Cabernet of compelling interest. Drink now–2020. Cellar Selection. —S.H. abv: NA Price: $80

94 Purlieu 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). This rich, complex Cabernet feels dra-

matic in the mouth. It impacts immediately with black currant, cassis and oak flavors, yet is thoroughly dry, with firm, smooth tannins and an oily umami chewi-ness, like charred steak fat off the grill. The winemaker, Julien Fayard, previously was at Lafite Rothschild. He brings a Bordeaux-esque sensitivity to Napa’s rich, ripe fruit. Hold until 2018. Cellar Selection. —S.H. abv: 14.9% Price: $80

93 Calicaro 2009 Charles Towne Reverence Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Val-

ley). This best barrel selection is deep, dark and deli-cious, with classic Napa blackberry, currant and cassis flavors. The tannins are thick. There’s a fleshy, meaty mouthfeel, and the finish is dry and complex. Really impressive, but way too young. Give it until 2017, and it should provide great drinking well beyond that date. Cellar Selection. —S.H. abv: 14.1% Price: $80

93 Chimney Rock 2010 Ganymede Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon (Stags Leap Dis-

trict). A fantastic Cabernet, rich and succulent, with jammy blackberry, cherry, chocolate and cassis liqueur flavors. Ultrarefined tannins and just-in-time acidity give it fine balance. Made in the modern, cult style, it seems best now and over the next few years for sheer decadence. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $125

93 Chimney Rock 2010 Tomahawk Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon (Stags Leap Dis-

trict). The winery’s Tomahawk bottling has been their most successful over the years, and with the 2010, they consolidate that trend. Made from 100% Cabernet, it shows the “iron fist in a velvet glove” personality of Stags Leap, with blackberry and cherry pie, cassis liqueur and oak flavors that are so delicious, you hardly notice the tannins. But they’re there. Drink now, after decanting, and over the next 10–15 years. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $125

93 Salvestrin 2009 Three D Cabernet Sau-vignon (St. Helena). This is a consistently

high scorer for Salvestrin. It’s a reserve, best barrels selection, taking the richness of the winery’s estate ’09 Cab and raising the stakes. Just explodes in blackber-ries, currants, mocha, smoky oak, with gorgeous, soft, remarkable tannins. Delicious now, but hold off until 2018, if you can. Cellar Selection. —S.H. abv: 14.8% Price: $125

92 Chimney Rock 2010 Estate Grown Cab-ernet Sauvignon (Stags Leap District). It

would be easy to dismiss this as just another Napa fruit-oak bomb, except that the lusciousness is accompanied by a fine structure that may even permit this Cab to age for a few years. It has the usual spectrum of ripe black-

berries, cherries, cassis and chocolate, but the acid-tan-nin balance lends it elegance. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $70

91 Hoot Owl Creek 2008 Cabernet Sauvi-gnon (Alexander Valley). Made in a riper,

high alcohol style, this Cab is just beginning to turn the corner from fresh primary fruit to aged bottle notes. The blackberries and cherries are drying out, and the wine is picking up complex mushroom, herb and min-eral components. It’s very fine and complex, and has 4–5 additional years ahead of it. —S.H. abv: 14.8% Price: $65

91 Maldonado 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). This Cabernet is enormously

extracted in blackberries and cassis, and oaky, too, while the tannins are rich, hard and refined. It’s a flashy wine. Drink now–2018. —S.H. abv: 14.4% Price: $55

91 Medlock Ames 2008 Small Vines Caber-net Sauvignon (Alexander Valley). A very

fine Cab, complex and interesting in every way. Near-ing five years of age, it’s right at that point where the primary fruit character is changing into notes of funky leather. The tannins are Alexander Valley-soft and re-fined. Drink now–2020. —S.H. abv: 14.2% Price: $55

91 Salvestrin 2009 Salvestrin Estate Vine-yard Cabernet Sauvignon (St. Helena).

For full review see page 7. Cellar Selection.abv: 14.8% Price: $60

91 Simi 2008 Landslide Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon (Alexander Valley). Shows the

Landslide style of extreme complexity, with firm tan-nins, adequate acidity and an herbal-mineral earthiness that grounds the cherry and blackberry fruit. Fine and detailed, but not drinkable now, despite being nearly five years of age. Needs lots of time to calm down. Give it four or five more years. Cellar Selection. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $40

90 Amaro Vineyard 2008 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon (Sonoma Valley). This new en-

try into the Cabernet sweepstakes is promising. It’s very ripe and concentrated in berries, cherries, currants and chocolate, in the manner of a mountain vineyard. The tannins are strong, but pliant, making it drinkable now. But something about it suggests the cellar. Give it three more years, by which time it will be eight years of age. Cellar Selection. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $40

90 B Side 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). For full review see page 8. Editors’

Choice.abv: 13.5% Price: $25

90 Chimney Rock 2010 Clone 7 Cabernet Sauvignon (Stags Leap District). Enor-

mously ripe, forward and succulent in blackberries, cas-sis, raisins and chocolate, with rich tannins and a long, dry, spicy finish. Very fine, yet unresolved now, with in-

ternal conflicts. Wants some age, so give it 5–6 years, because high alcohol and overripeness will eventually dominate. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $85

90 Gallo Signature Series 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). For full review

see page 8. abv: 14.8% Price: $40

90 Medlock Ames 2008 Bell Mountain Vine-yard Cabernet Sauvignon (Alexander Val-

ley). This Cab wants a few more years to let its internal inconsistencies resolve. The primary cherry and black-berry fruit has faded and is turning nutty. But it’s still pretty tannic. Needs to throw some sediment to let the inherent fruit emerge. Try after 2016. Cellar Selec-tion. —S.H. abv: 13.9% Price: $52

90 Mount Veeder 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). This Cab is so attractive to

drink now that most people will lose the opportunity to age it. Don’t be one of them. As delicious as it is now in blackberries and chocolate, it will be better in 2015 or 2016. But don’t hold it much beyond that. Cellar Se-lection. —S.H. abv: 14% Price: $40

90 Reaper 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon (Chalk Hill). For full review see page 9. Cellar Selec-

tion. abv: 14.2% Price: $35

89 Dominus 2010 Napanook Cabernet Sau-vignon (Napa Valley). Tastes candied at this

time, offering a myriad of raspberry and cherry jam, red currant and caramelized oak flavors. Based on Cabernet Sauvignon, with additions of Cabernet Franc and Pe-tit Verdot, it’s a rich, satisfying wine, but a little under-whelming for a Dominus wine. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $59

89 Medlock Ames 2008 Hilltop Cabernet Sauvignon (Alexander Valley). This Cab is

in a bit of a hole now, caught midway between the fresh fruitiness of youth, and what it will be at the age of, say, ten years. It feels very soft and dense, with blackberry, cassis, chocolate and funky leather flavors. You’re best off leaving it in the cellar for another 5–6 years. Cellar Selection. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $55

89 Pech Merle 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon (Alexander Valley). Very ripe in blackberries

and cherries, with a nice coating of toasty oak, with a long, spicy finish. The texture is a bit aggressive, with sandpapery tannins. Doesn’t seem like an ager, so drink now–2015. —S.H. abv: 13.8% Price: $39

89 Purlieu 2010 Le Pich Cabernet Sauvi-gnon (Napa Valley). This shows distinctive

dryness and tannins, with an elegant mouthfeel framing

WineMag.com | 33

black currant and oak flavors. But it’s a little shy of being ageworthy, so drink up. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $45

89 St. Supéry 2010 Estate Cabernet Sauvi-gnon (Napa Valley). Notable for balanced el-

egance, this Cabernet is dry and complex in blackberry, currant, cassis and plum flavors. Oak gives it a lovely jacket of smoke. It’s tough in tannins, and unlikely to age, so drink over the next 2–3 years. —S.H. abv: 14.4% Price: $30

89 Stryker Sonoma 2007 Estate Cabernet Sauvignon (Alexander Valley). Lots of

ripe, lush blackberry and cherry jam, mocha and cassis liqueur flavors in this full-bodied Cab. Tastes younger than it really is, with some brisk acids and firm tannins. Give it another 3–4 years in the cellar to let the parts continue to evolve. Cellar Selection. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $50

89 Vermeil 2010 Pickett Road Block Cab-ernet Sauvignon (Calistoga). Defines the

yummy-delicious modern style of Napa Cabernet, with wave after wave of sweet blackberry jam, dark choco-late and toasty oak flavors. High alcohol gives it a sting of heat. Feels soft and mellow, like a melted candy bar. Drink soon. —S.H. abv: 15.3% Price: $125

88 Alexander Valley Vineyards 2008 Single Vineyard Selection Cabernet Sauvignon

(Alexander Valley). A rich, interesting wine at the junction between fresh, primary fruit and aged, bottled character. The blackberries and cherries are drying out, turning earthy and mushroomy. Yet the wine remains vibrant and tannic. Will continue to age for many years. —S.H. abv: 14.1% Price: $40

88 Hawkes 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon (Alex-ander Valley). The heat waves of the vintage

show up in the raisin flavors that pervade this Cab. It’s complicated with dark chocolate, blackberry jam and cassis notes, wrapped into bigtime tannins, with a chis-eled finish. Drink now–2015. —S.H. abv: 13.9% Price: $65

88 J. Rickards 2010 Five Sisters Blend Cab-ernet Sauvignon (Alexander Valley). This

is a very ripe, flashy Cabernet, tannic and dry, with blackberry and cassis flavors that are accented with oak. It shows plenty of balanced elegance, but those tannins lock it down. Give it 5–6 years to begin to come around. Cellar Selection. —S.H. abv: 14% Price: $34

88 Mill Creek 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon (Al-exander Valley). This is a very rich, flashy

Cabernet. It has deliciously modern flavors of black cherries, cassis and chocolate, and the tannins are stur-dy, but finely ground. The addition of 19% Merlot gives it a mellow softness that’s perfect for drinking now. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $38

88 Trefethen 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon (Oak Knoll). This is a big, full-bodied wine.

It’s massive in blackberries, plums and currants, with some dried herb notes along with lots of sweet oak. The tannins are very strong, and the finish is astringent. It’s clearly well-grown, but tough. Age it for up to five years, but it doesn’t have the richness for the long haul. —S.H. abv: 14.1% Price: $60

87 Arbios 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon (Alex-ander Valley). Soft, gently tannic and sweet

in blackberries and cherries, this nearly seven-year old Cab is showing its best now. It’s achieved a mellow mouthfeel despite the hard tannins that are slowly soft-ening. Drink up. —S.H. abv: 13.6% Price: $30

87 Cade 2009 Napa Cuvée Cabernet Sauvi-gnon (Napa Valley). With a bit of Merlot, Pe-

tit Verdot and Malbec, this Cab is marked by hard tan-nins and blackberry and cherry jam, black currant and oak flavors. The finish is gripping, however, it’s pretty tart, and you have to wonder if that sharpness will ever age out. Decant and drink up. —S.H. abv: 15.2% Price: $60

87 Coghlan 2010 Coghlan Estate Vineyard Block 2 Diamond Cabernet Sauvignon

(Santa Ynez Valley). This is an enormously rich Cabernet. It explodes in milk chocolate, black cherry, spicy plum and sweet, toasty oak flavors, wrapped into smooth tannins. Delicious, if a bit one-dimensional. Drink now. —S.H. abv: 15.2% Price: $65

87 Francis Coppola 2010 Reserve Caber-net Sauvignon (Alexander Valley). Lots

of sweet, easy blackberry and cherry fruit in this stylish Cabernet. It has smooth, rich tannins and the herba-ceousness you often find in Alexander Valley Cab. Drink now. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $45

87 Happy Canyon Vineyard 2008 Barrack Ten-Goal (Happy Canyon of Santa Bar-

bara). Mostly Cabernet Sauvignon, this is an extraordi-narily ripe wine. It’s flashy in blackberry and cherry jam and milk chocolate flavors, with soft tannins and acids that make it instantly drinkable. —S.H. abv: 14.1% Price: $62

87 Hawkes 2008 Pyramid Vineyard Cab-ernet Sauvignon (Alexander Valley). At

nearly five years of age, this Cab is approaching its peak. The berry, cherry and mocha flavors are turning dry and mushroomy. It’s a soft and interesting wine, but nearing the end of its journey. Drink up. —S.H. abv: 14.1% Price: $65

87 Jack Nicklaus Wines 2009 Cabernet Sau-vignon (Napa Valley). Rich and opulent, in

the popular style, this Cabernet offers soft, oak-driven flavors of blackberries, black cherries and cherry li-queur. It’s a gentle, delicious and fancy wine, if a little one-dimensional. Drink now. —S.H. abv: 14.2% Price: $45

87 Joseph Carr 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa County). There’s lots of rich, ripe

blackberry and cherry jam, dark chocolate and cassis li-queur flavor in this dry, stylish Cabernet. While it’s a lit-tle on the direct side, and is not an ager, it’s a fine value, showing real Napa sophistication. —S.H. abv: 14.1% Price: $20

87 Martin Ray 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon (Sonoma County). Lots of pretty, polished

berry-cherry, chocolate and oak in this Cabernet. It’s smooth in tannins and easy to drink, with a richness to the finish. Good job for the price. —S.H. abv: 14.4% Price: $20

87 Mike Ditka 2010 The Icon Cabernet Sau-vignon (Napa Valley). Rich and flashy in

blackberries, dark chocolate and cassis liqueur, this Cab feels fancy all the way through to the dry, spicy finish. The tannins kick in midway, giving it a scour of astrin-gency that suggests the cellar. Yet it’s really too soft and one-dimensional for anything beyond 3–4 years before the fruit dies. —S.H. abv: 14.3% Price: $50

87 Robert Mondavi 2011 Private Selection Cabernet Sauvignon (Central Coast).

Mondavi’s done it again, produced another very nice Cabernet at an everyday price. It shows classy elegance, with blackberry, currant and mocha notes. Best Buy. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $11

87 Souverain 2008 Winemaker’s Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon (Alexander Valley).

Just turning the corner from fresh, ripe blackberries and cherries to dried versions of those fruits. Overripe-ness persists, however, in the form of raisins and prunes. The acids and tannins are lovely, but the wine lacks the inherent balance to improve with age. —S.H. abv: 14.8% Price: $35

86 La Storia by Trentadue 2010 Estate Cab-ernet Sauvignon (Alexander Valley).

Tastes a touch overripe, with chocolate-covered raisin flavors along with the blackberries and cherries. While it’s technically dry, the high alcohol contributes notes of glycerine. Hard to see it going anywhere, so drink up. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $32

86 Munselle 2006 Coyote Crest Cabernet Sauvignon (Alexander Valley). At the age

of nearly seven years, it’s ready to drink now. It’s soft and mellow, and the fruit is fading, leaving behind the taste of alcohol and raisins. —S.H. abv: 14.6% Price: $65

86 Nickname 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon (California). For the price, this is one of the

best Cab values in the market. It shows fine varietal character, with blackberry and cherry flavors wrapped into firm tannins and a spicy finish. Best Buy. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $11


BUYINGGUIDE

85 Jax 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Val-ley). Soft, dry and delicious, with classic Napa

tannins. It has lovely layers of blackberries and cassis, but also overripe raisin and prune notes that prohibit aging. —S.H. abv: 14.8% Price: $48

85 Leese-Fitch 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon (California). This is the kind of Cabernet that

California can accomplish with one hand tied behind its back. Softly tannic and smooth, it’s incredibly rich and sweet in blackberry and cherry jam, milk chocolate and toasty oak flavors for drinking now at a good price. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $12

85 Martin Ranch 2009 J.D. Hurley Cabernet Sauvignon (Santa Cruz Mountains). Ag-

gressive in tannins and concentrated in fruit, this Cab is a little rustic, but fine for drinking now. It’s sweet in raisin, cassis, black pepper and oak flavors. Give it some time in the decanter. —S.H. abv: 14.2% Price: $27

85 Stickybeak 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). Easy drinking Cabernet here,

with soft, gentle tannins framing sweet blackberries, mocha and smoky oak. Not an ager, so enjoy now. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $20

84 Alexander Valley Vineyards 2010 Estate Cabernet Sauvignon (Alexander Valley).

Tastes sharp in acidity, dry and difficult now. The cherry candy, currant and oak flavors are rich, but the gritty mouthfeel is hard to like. —S.H. abv: 14% Price: $22

84 Courtney Benham 2011 Cabernet Sauvi-gnon (Napa Valley). A little gritty and stringy

in the mouth, with some sharpness. The berry-cherry flavors have a jammy sweetness. Drink up. —S.H. abv: 13.9% Price: $20

84 Del Carlo Winery 2009 Home Ranch Cab-ernet Sauvignon (Dry Creek Valley). This

Cabernet Sauvignon is full-bodied and spicy. A good, sound wine for drinking now. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $30

84 Mounts 2010 Estate Grown Cabernet Sauvignon (Dry Creek Valley). Here’s a

rustic Cabernet. With the right foods, at the right time, it’s fine. By itself it’s awkward, with some elements out of balance, but the cherry-berry notes will play well against a great burger. —S.H. abv: 14.8% Price: $40

84 Wattle Creek 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon (Alexander Valley). Lots of flashy blackber-

ry and cassis flavors in this Cabernet. Easy to drink, but feels way too soft to earn a higher score. Drink up. —S.H. abv: 14.8% Price: $42

83 Ugly Duckling 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon (California). This Cab is a country-style wine,

simple and thin, with cherry-berry flavors and a touch of oak. It’s not bad for the price. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $12

82 Chime 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon (Cali-fornia). Harsh in the mouth, with tart acids

giving a bite to thin raspberry and tea flavors. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $12

81 Cannonball 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon (California). A soft wine, with diluted berry

and cherry flavors. —S.H. abv: 13.7% Price: $15

81 The Original Dark Horse 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon (California). The price is right.

It’s soft and sweet, with jammy, candy flavors. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $8

CABERNET FRANC

91 Jarvis 2008 Estate Grown Cave Ferment-ed Cabernet Franc (Napa Valley). For full

review see page 7. abv: 14.8% Price: $95

86 Courtney Benham 2011 Cabernet Franc (Sonoma Mountain). An easy, stylish Cab

Franc, with lots to like. It’s dry and softly smooth, with cherry pie flavors and an elegant mouthfeel. —S.H. abv: 13.9% Price: $20

84 Jax 2010 Cabernet Franc (Calistoga). Al-cohol gives this wine a hot aroma and taste, as

well as sweetness from glycerine. The cherry fruits veer into overripe raisins. Whie the tannins are elegant, the heat limits its appeal, not to mention ageability. —S.H. abv: 15.2% Price: $50

84 Mounts 2010 Estate Grown Cabernet Franc (Dry Creek Valley). With superripe

flavors of prunes and chocolate-covered raisins, this Cab Franc lacks the cherried gracefulness you want in the variety. It turns porty in the finish, with high alcohol and caramelized brown sugar. —S.H. abv: 14.8% Price: $40

MERLOT

93 Jarvis 2010 Estate Grown Cave Ferment-ed Reserve Merlot (Napa Valley). For full


92 Jarvis 2010 Estate Grown Cave Ferment-ed Merlot (Napa Valley). For full review see


90 Franciscan 2010 Merlot (Napa Valley). This is the kind of wine Franciscan produces so

well and reliably. As far as Merlots go, it shows the soft

approachability and supple tannins you expect. Flavor-wise, it’s appealing in ripe red cherries, sweet red lico-rice and smoky oak. A very nice restaurant wine, and easy to find, with more than 20,000 cases produced. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $21

89 Martin Ray 2011 Reserve Merlot (Oak Knoll). This is a delicious Merlot for drinking

now. It’s Martin Ray’s best in years, a dry, smooth, soft wine, with elaborate cherry pie, blackberry jam and oak flavors that are complex and spicy. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. abv: 14.2% Price: $22

88 Mill Creek 2010 Merlot (Alexander Val-ley). A beautiful wine that does just what you

want in a Merlot. It’s soft, velvety and luscious to drink now, but it’s far from simple. Shows intricate cherry-berry, mocha, licorice, chocolate and oak flavors that go long on the finish. Drink now. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $28

88 Trefethen 2010 Merlot (Oak Knoll). Hard tannins give a toughness to the blackberry, cher-

ry and mulberry fruits, locking down the palate in puck-ery astringency. It’s severe, although it does have real complexity. Drink it by 2015, but give it a good, long decant. —S.H. abv: 14.1% Price: $38

87 Joseph Carr 2010 Merlot (Napa Valley). A little too soft for aging, but ultra-refined, with

complex cherry, red currant, balsam, cola and mush-room flavors. It’s very dry and ready to drink now, de-spite some hard tannins. —S.H. abv: 14.1% Price: $20

87 Martin Ray 2011 Merlot (Napa Valley). This bottling from Martin Ray has been offer-

ing consistent value over the years. With the 2011, they continue that tradition with this smooth, softly tannic Merlot. The cherry, mocha and oak flavors are easy to like. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. abv: 14.2% Price: $20

87 Peju 2010 Merlot (Napa Valley). Lots of cherries, red currants and sweet, toasty oak in

this dry Merlot. It’s delicious, but hard tannins make it tough and astringent. Doesn’t seem to have the stuff-ing for extended aging, so drink over the next few years. —S.H. abv: 14.8% Price: $35

86 Joyce 2011 Pedregal Vineyard Merlot (San Benito County). A bit aggressive, with

blackberry, cherry, cassis and sweet licorice flavors. It’s a big, exuberant, fruity wine to drink now. —S.H. abv: 14.6% Price: $24

82 Joseph Carr 2011 Josh Cellars Merlot (California). A simple wine, sharp and bitter,

with thin flavors of blackberry tea, sweet cola and oak. Drink up. —S.H. abv: 13.9% Price: $15

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RED BLENDS

91 Marimar Estate 2009 Don Miguel Vine-yard Unfiltered Syrah-Tempranillo (Rus-

sian River Valley). For full review see page 7. abv: 14.1% Price: $45

90 Maldonado 2009 Red (Napa Valley). A rich, flavorful young wine, whose black currant,

anise and mocha flavors are touched with smoky oak. There’s a fanciness to the tannin structure that lifts it up. —S.H. abv: NA Price: $38

89 Hall 2010 Craig’s Cuvée (Napa Valley). Hall produces some of Napa’s consistently most

gorgeous red wines, and while this wine is one of their least expensive, it shows the house style of balanced power and deliciousness. A Bordeaux-style blend with 30% Syrah, it’s high in alcohol, but wears it well, show-ing blackberry, cherry, chocolate and liqueur flavors. Drink now. —S.H. abv: 15.6% Price: $35

89 Happy Canyon Vineyard 2008 Barrack Brand (Happy Canyon of Santa Barbara).

This Merlot-based Bordeaux-style blend is upfront and delicious in cherry and blackberry jam, chocolate, red currant, bacon and sweet oak flavors. Most of the ap-peal is right there on the surface, but it does contain a level of complexity and balance that adds to the point score. —S.H. abv: 14.1% Price: $42

89 Highflyer 2009 Centerline (Napa Valley). This blend of Syrah, Petite Sirah, Zinfandel and

Grenache is perhaps unprecedented in California, but it’s a very good wine, and the price makes it a relative bargain. It’s dry, with significant tannins and crisp acid-ity framing rich, complex cherry, red currant, mocha and buttered cinnamon toast flavors. Versatile across a huge range of foods, a great house wine. Production was 4,400 cases. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. abv: 14.8% Price: $20

87 Alexander Valley Vineyards 2009 Cyrus (Alexander Valley). Tastes more acidic and

brittle than past Cyruses. The flavors veer toward sour cherry and blackberry candies, with hints of blueber-ries, plums and fresh herbs. Not showing well now, but could be an ager. Try after 2017. Cellar Selection. —S.H. abv: 14% Price: $55

87 Chimney Rock 2010 Elevage (Stags Leap District). This is the winery’s Bordeaux-style

blend, based on Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon. It’s very rich in blackberry and chocolate flavors, with plen-ty of toasty oak. Yet it has a sharpness that detracts, and is unlikely to age out. Drink now. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $90

87 Happy Canyon Vineyard 2010 Piocho (Happy Canyon of Santa Barbara). Easy

to drink this blend of all five classic Bordeaux variet-

ies, with Merlot predominating. It’s all about cherries, blackberries, plum jam, currants and chocolate. Not particularly subtle or ageworthy, but very pretty. —S.H. abv: 14.1% Price: $32

87 Jack Nicklaus Wines 2009 Private Re-serve Red (Napa Valley). This is a Cabernet

Sauvignon-based Bordeaux-style blend with a splash of Syrah. It’s made in the modern cult style of softness, ex-tracted fruit and plenty of toasty oak. With blackberry, cassis and dark chocolate flavors, it’s obviously delicious, yet has a certain generic quality. Drink now. —S.H. abv: 14.4% Price: $60

87 Luke Donald 2010 Red (Napa Valley). This Cabernet Sauvignon-based Bordeaux-style

blend is very rich and ripe in blackberries, cherries and currants. It has smooth tannins, and the finish is dry. It’s a fashionable wine that feels plush in the mouth, but young. Give it 3–4 years, but it doesn’t seem to have the stuffing for the long haul. —S.H. abv: 13.8% Price: $40

87 Mike Ditka 2010 The Champion Coach’s Blend (Napa Valley). Another famous athlete

wine that follows the template of so many others. Based on Merlot, it’s soft, mellow and opulent in cherries, cur-rants, dark chocolate and sweet new oak. Drink now. —S.H. abv: 14.3% Price: $50

87 Screenplay Wines 2009 Red (Napa Val-ley). Blended from too many varieties to list,

including Cabernet Sauvignon and Viognier, this red wine is acidic and dry. It has ripe cherry, currant and oak flavors that are very tannic, but the wine is not an ager. Drink up. —S.H. abv: 14.2% Price: $38

87 Star Lane Vineyard 2007 Astral (Happy Canyon of Santa Barbara). Hard to be-

lieve this Cabernet Franc-based Bordeaux-style blend is nearly six years old. It’s still bitingly tannic. There’s a huge core of blackberry and cocoa fruit that’s slowly showing aged notes, but those tough tannins will never go away before the fruit fades. Drink up. —S.H. abv: 15.1% Price: $80

87 Stolpman 2011 La Cuadrilla (Santa Ynez Valley). This bottling is a blend of various vari-

eties from the winery’s estate Ballard Canyon vineyard. The profits go the the winery’s vineyard crew. The ’11 Caudrilla is a rich, spicy wine, with lots of sweet, ripe berry-cherry fruits. It’s fine for drinking now. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $22

87 Summerwood 2008 Sentio (Paso Ro-bles). This Bordeaux-style blend contains a

drop of Syrah, which gives it a smoky meatiness that brings complexity to the blackberries and cherries. It’s a little hot in alcohol, but is smooth and velvety, and deli-cious to drink now. —S.H. abv: 14.9% Price: $58

86 Communication Block 2010 Lampyridae Vineyards (Mount Veeder). The winery

doesn’t tell us what the blend is, but it tastes vaguely Rhônish. It’s dry, velvety and forward in cherry pie, mo-cha and spice flavors, wrapped into firm tannins. It’s a little hot in alcohol. Drink up. —S.H. abv: 14.6% Price: $50

86 La Storia by Trentadue 2010 Cuvée Ev-elyna (Alexander Valley). This is a Merlot-

based Bordeaux-style blend, containing the five classic varieties. It’s a little hot in alcohol and overripe, with raisin, prune and blackberry flavors. Will age for a long time, without gaining complexity. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $32

86 Robert Mondavi 2011 Private Selection Meritage (Central Coast). Nice and dry,

with some smooth tannins framing berry, cherry and oak flavors. Serve it at big parties, at the beach, wher-ever. Nobody will complain. Best Buy. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $11

86 Three 2010 Old Vines Field Blend (Con-tra Costa County). A rustic blend of Zinfan-

del, Petite Sirah, Mataro, Carignane, Alicante Bouschet and Black Malvoisie, all old vine, this red is aromatic in blackberry fruit, spicy pepper and a layering of herbs. Balanced with a long finish, it’s dense and ready to drink, with equally lush foods. —V.B. abv: 15.2% Price: $18

85 Le Mistral 2010 Red (Monterey County). Based on Syrah, Grenache, Petite Sirah and Ali-

cante Bouschet, this wine is soft, sweet and pretty sim-ple. It tastes like a raspberry, roasted almond and vanilla cookie. —S.H. abv: 14.6% Price: $45

85 Le Mistral 2009 Red (Monterey County). This soft, easy wine is nearing the end of its use-

ful life, so drink up. Made from Syrah, Petite Sirah and other varieties, it’s rich in jam, cocoa and wood spice fla-vors, with a burst of acidity. —S.H. abv: 14.4% Price: $45

85 Sanglier Cellars 2010 Rouge du Tusque (Sonoma County). A simple wine, dry and

tart in acidity, with pleasant wild cherry, red currant, sweet licorice and bacon flavors. The blend is mainly Syrah, with a splash of Petite Sirah. —S.H. abv: 14.2% Price: $26

85 Summerwood 2008 Diosa (Paso Robles). Mainly Syrah, with lesser amounts of Grenache

and Mourvèdre, this is a very soft, sweet, fruity wine. It tastes like a dried raspberry, milk chocolate, brown sug-ar and nougat candy confection, with enormously high alcohol. —S.H. abv: 16.3% Price: $58

84 Toad Hollow 2011 Erik’s The Red Propri-etary Red Wine (California). Forget about

the fine crystal glass, and don’t worry about food pair-ings. Just gulp this country wine down with whatever. It’s dry and robust, with a tease of blackberries and rai-sins. —S.H. abv: 14.2% Price: $15


BUYINGGUIDE

83 Cocobon 2011 Red (California). At this price, buy a bunch and pour it in paper cups

at your next big party. You won’t get any complaints. Blackberry, chocolate and oak-like flavors are front and center. —S.H. abv: 13% Price: $8

83 The Original Dark Horse NV Big Red (California). Soft, sugary sweet and simple,

with cherry jam and chocolate flavors. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $8

OTHER RED WINES

88 Acorn 2010 Alegria Vineyard Dolcetto (Russian River Valley). The cherry, red cur-

rant and smoky oak flavors on this wine are delicious, and with the light, silky texture and vibrant acidity, you might think it was Pinot Noir. Beautiful to drink now with your favorite Italian-inspired beef entrée, but stay away from tomatoes. —S.H. abv: 14.1% Price: $33

88 Summerwood 2009 Grenache (Paso Ro-bles). The cherry marmalade, red currant, mo-

cha, caramel and white pepper flavors are so delicious, you might be drinking a candy bar, with very high al-cohol giving it a heady warmth. It’s an impressive Gr-enache, thick and liqueury, for drinking now. —S.H. abv: 16.1% Price: $34

87 Seghesio 2010 Sangiovese (Alexander Valley). Richer, fruitier and heavier than San-

giovese really ought to be, but then, this is Alexander Valley, not Tuscany. It’s a big wine, jammy in chocolate-covered cherries and licorice, and while the only thing Italian about it is the acidity, it’s a tasty wine. —S.H. abv: 14.8% Price: $30

86 Acorn 2010 Alegria Vineyards Sangio-vese (Russian River Valley). Shows Sangio-

vese’s bright cherry and cola flavors and mouthwatering acidity, in a light, silky texture. It’s a good, dry, savory wine, but a little one-dimensional. Drink up. —S.H. abv: 14.1% Price: $30

86 Seghesio 2011 Barbera (Alexander Val-ley). Good as this wine is, it’s very rustic nature.

The tannins are hard and brittle, the acidity is high, and the wine veers between leaner tobacco notes and su-perripe currants. But its heart is pure cherry. Will age forever, without gaining complexity, so enjoy it now with your favorite pasta and tomato sauce, and plenty of grat-ed cheese. —S.H. abv: 14.8% Price: $38

85 Y Rousseau 2011 The Musketeer Tannat (Russian River Valley). Bizarre for Tannat,

which should be dry, tannic and leathery. Instead, this one’s sweet, soft and fruity in raspberry and cherry jam. —S.H. abv: 13.9% Price: $35

83 Mounts 2010 Estate Grown Malbec (Dry Creek Valley). Too ripe, with prune, choco-

late and raisin flavors that taste hot and sweet in high alcohol. With hard tannins, it could almost be a minor Port. —S.H. abv: 14.8% Price: $35

82 Mounts 2010 Estate Grown Grenache (Dry Creek Valley). Overripe, with raisin and

prune flavors. The finish is very dry and tannic. It will not gain complexity by aging, so drink up. —S.H. abv: 15% Price: $30

DESSERT WINES

92 Dutton-Goldfield 2011 Sticky Finish Ries-ling (Marin County). An incredible, complex

honeyed-almond burst of a sweet wine, just 12% alcohol with 19% residual sugar. With a taste of graham cracker shortbread, toffee and honeycomb, this is a seductive treat, easy going on its own, and with just the right level of acidity to pair with sharp cheeses. —V.B. abv: 12% Price: $55/375 ml

82 Coghlan 2010 Late Harvest Riby Caber-net Sauvignon (Santa Ynez Valley). Drink-

able, but it has vegetable, blackberry and sugar flavors that finish cloyingly sweet and simple. —S.H. abv: 18.1% Price: $50/375 ml

82 Dante 2012 Reserve Moscato (Califor-nia). Honey-sweet, soft and simple, with apri-

cot and lemon candy flavors. —S.H. abv: 9% Price: $10

CHILE

CHARDONNAY

90 Miguel Torres 2012 Cordillera Chardon-nay (Limarí Valley). It’s been a while since

Torres Chile has made a Chardonnay this good. Min-erally and toasty is the best way to describe this struc-tured white. Good acidity keeps it upright, while plenty of barrel, cinnamon, apple and lemon character give it a Burgundian leaning. This is woody, racy and very lively now. Drink in 2014–15. Dreyfus, Ashby & Co. Cellar Selection. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $23

87 Veramonte 2011 Reserva Chardonnay (Casablanca Valley). Lightly toasted apple,

peach and melon aromas are friendly and come across correct and inviting. This is solid and good in the mouth, with nice acidity and resiny, oaky, melony flavors. Light wood notes accent a fleshy but healthy finish. Huneeus Vintners. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $12

86 Caliterra 2012 Reserva Estate Grown Chardonnay (Casablanca Valley). Tropical

aromas are typical for basic Chilean Chardonnay. This is plump in feel, with cantaloupe, honeydew and chunky apple flavors. The palate feels balanced and the wine is just focused enough on the finish, which shows a spot

of bracing acidity. Drink right away. Durango Imports, Inc. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $11

86 Maray 2012 Limited Edition Chardonnay (Limarí Valley). Maray Chardonnay is crisp

and mineral-driven on the nose, but not overly fruity. This is lean-bodied, with cidery, tangy acidity and domi-nating flavors of limestone-influenced citrus and stone fruits. It’s a modest Chardonnay with finesse but not a whole lot of flavor. Biagio Cru & Estate Wines, LLC. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $20

85 Domaines Barons de Rothschild (Lafite) 2012 Los Vascos Chardonnay (Colcha-

gua Valley). Powdery aromas of vanilla and animal cracker cookies render any fruit scents as an after-thought. As per usual, Los Vascos is a citrusy wine with vague Sauvignon Blanc characteristics. Flavors of lime and green melon are racy, pithy and briny, and so is the finish. Pasternak Wine Imports. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $14

85 Emiliana 2012 Natura Un-Oaked Char-donnay (Casablanca Valley). Tropical aro-

mas are straightforward. This feels plump, peachy and regular on the palate, while flavors of candied apple and pear lead to a soft, standard finish with little personality. This is good, but that’s as much as you can say about this simple white wine. Banfi Vintners. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $11

85 Rios de Chile 2012 Reserva Chardonnay (Cachapoal Valley). Saline, minerally aromas

get this out of the starting blocks. After that, light toast notes and vanilla appear. In the mouth, this is round and offers proper acidity. Flavors of tropical fruits like mel-on and lychee are sweet, leaving a pineapple aftertaste. Vanilla, spice and wood resin flavors control the finish. W. Direct. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $15

84 Chilcas 2011 Reserva Chardonnay (Maule Valley). Like many basic Chilean

Chards, this is chunky, heavy and melony on the nose. The palate has a satisfactory feel and decent acidity, while core flavors of banana and papaya are oaky and end with a salty, briny flavor. Vici Wine and Spirits. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $13

84 Chilcas 2011 Single Vineyard Chardon-nay (Casablanca Valley). Apple and peach

aromas are nothing special. So is the palate, which is plump and shows reasonable acidity. Oaky, salty flavors of white fruits turn mildly bitter on the finish, and while this is better than some Chilean Chardonnays, it does little to advance the category. Vici Wine and Spirits. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $13

84 Indomita 2012 Duette Chardonnay (Cas-ablanca Valley). The nose announces a resiny,

oaky wine. What you don’t get from the bouquet is how direct and acidic it is in the mouth. Flavors of citrus and

WineMag.com | 37

wood are tart and clumsy, while the finish brings a blast of short-lived citrus flavor. Laird & Company. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $NA

84 Llai Llai 2012 Chardonnay (Bío Bío Val-ley). This is a basic white with mild apple, mel-

on and cured-meat aromas. The mouthfeel is fresh but dilute, while flavors of melon and tropical fruits finish hollow and bland. Inoffensive is the best way to de-scribe this Chardonnay. MJW. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $10

84 Morandé 2011 Reserva Chardonnay (Casablanca Valley). Peach and melon aro-

mas help define what amounts to a tropical smelling bouquet. A tight, lemony palate offers a firm mouth-feel, while bright citrus flavors are dominant but fail to bring much else to the table. The finish offers banana and vanilla flavors before dropping off. Grupo Belen USA. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $14

84 Undurraga 2012 Aliwen Reserva Char-donnay (Chile). This Chardonnay is generally

solid. However, on the nose, palate and finish you’ll find a briny, almost pickled character to go with aromas of citrus fruits, flavors of melon and apple, and finishing notes of melon and lime. All in all, there’s not a lot to this wine. Testa Wines Of The World. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $13

83 Château Los Boldos 2012 Cuvée Tradi-tion Chardonnay (Rapel Valley). Light in

color, light in aromas, light in flavor... that pretty much describes this decent but rudimentary Chardonnay. Airy pear aromas lead to a monotone, fresh palate with generic flavors of peach, melon and citrus. A pithy bit-terness rises up on the modest finish. Deutsch Family Wine & Spirits. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $13

83 Concha y Toro 2011 Casillero del Diablo Reserva Chardonnay (Limarí Valley). This

is a round, creamy, soft Chardonnay with resiny aromas. A strange, forced oak flavor dominates the flavor profile, which includes spice more than fruit. On the finish, oak and resin are about all you get. Excelsior Wines. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $12

83 Echeverria 2012 Reserva Chardonnay (Curicó Valley). Mild aromas of apple cider

bring no real aromatic gravitas. The feel is good but ba-sic, with fresh acidity and wetness. Flavors of nectarine, peach pit and citrus finish dry, pithy and short. Ararat Import/Export Co. LLC. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $12

83 San Pedro 2012 Epica Chardonnay (Cen-tral Valley). A gold color and flat nose are in-

dicators that this doesn’t have a lot of life to it. Creamy, baked, sweet aromas lead to a round, mellow palate with applesauce and creamy, lactic flavors. A sugary fin-ish is low on acidic cut and is slightly cloying. Shaw-Ross International Importers. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $11

83 Vaya Vadiso 2012 Chardonnay (Central Valley). Air freshener and tropical aromas lead

to a juice-like palate with green tannins. Lime, net-tle and nopal flavors finish heavy. Winery Exchange. —M.S. abv: 12% Price: $10

82 Arauco 2012 Chardonnay (Central Val-ley). Light vanilla and chunky tropical fruit aro-

mas open this basic Chardonnay. The palate is weighty, while flavors of pineapple, mango and oak run sweet. On the finish, it falls off and doesn’t hold up. Dangerous Wine Group. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $10

82 Soleca 2012 3 Generaciones Char-donnay (Central Valley). Animal Cracker,

Creamsicle and chemical aromas combine to create a difficult bouquet. This is a hollow wine with bland flavors of rubber band and apple. A strained, oddly oaky tasting finish does little to help. Dangerous Wine Group. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $12

82 TerraMater 2011 Limited Reserve Char-donnay (Maipo Valley). This yeasty Char-

donnay is yellow in color, with mustard, flabby fruit and oxidized aromas. A heavy, wide, cidery feeling palate yields oaky, rustic flavors of mustard and baked apple. This is long but resiny and challenging on the finish. D’Andrea Imports. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $18

82 Viña La Fortuna 2012 Culpeo Made with Organic Grapes Chardonnay (Curicó Val-

ley). Soft aromas of sea shell, stone and mango appear in the bouquet. In the mouth, this is big and clumsy, with cidery flavors that continue onto the finish. Like many 2012 Chilean Chardonnays, this is overly ripe and not in the best balance. VinLozano Imports. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $10

82 Vistamar 2011 Sepia Reserva Chardon-nay (Casablanca Valley). This Chardon-

nay opens with a strong blast of oak resin that frank-ly doesn’t smell very natural or nice. The palate feel is heavy and mealy, while flavors of resiny oak and salt lack fruit. The finish is much the same: salty and oaky. Grupo Belen USA. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $12

81 Luis Felipe Edwards 2012 Marea Wild Ferment Chardonnay (Leyda Valley). Pea

and green bean aromas announce a heavy, somewhat vegetal wine. The mouthfeel is viscous and not easy to navigate, while overly sweet pineapple and mango fla-vors finish in a mash of banana. Domaine Select Wine Estates. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $30

SAUVIGNON BLANC

91 Kingston Family 2012 Cariblanco Sauvi-gnon Blanc (Casablanca Valley). For full

review see page 7. Editors’ Choice. abv: 14% Price: $16

90 Luis Felipe Edwards 2012 Marea Fumé Sauvignon Blanc (Leyda Valley). This is an

expressive Sauvignon Blanc with almost vegetal aromas announcing coastal origins. The palate is chiseled and lemony, then minerally flavors of grapefruit, tangerine and lemon give way to passion fruit and stony finishing notes. Laser-beam acidity and minerality are what drive this. Domaine Select Wine Estates. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $30

88 Casas del Bosque 2012 Reserva Sau-vignon Blanc (Casablanca Valley). This

straddles the fence between vegetal and citrusy, with both sides appearing on the nose. In the mouth, this is high-toned and piercing, with laser-beam acidity push-ing passion fruit, grapefruit, green herb and melony fla-vors. On the finish, a wave of mild green settles in, while the feel is actually a touch creamy. Drink now. American Importing. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $12

88 Domaines Barons de Rothschild (Lafite) 2012 Los Vascos Sauvignon Blanc (Cas-

ablanca Valley). The normal Los Vascos style of Sau-vignon Blanc is lean and citrusy, with an emphasis on passion fruit aromas and flavors. This wine, from a very warm vintage, is more tropical and plump than the norm. And while it’s still tight and nervy in the mouth, with lime, grapefruit and orange pith flavors, it’s defi-nitely less angular than in the past. Pasternak Wine Im-ports. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA

88 Santa Ema 2012 Reserve Sauvignon Blanc (Leyda Valley). Classic, pungent fe-

line aromas of passion fruit, citrus and grass set up a friendly palate with moderate acidity and nice flavors of nectarine, lime and green melon. The finish introduces sweet notes of banana to go with lime. TGIC Import-ers. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $15

87 Anakena 2012 Enco Reserva Sauvignon Blanc (Leyda Valley). Tight, grassy, green

aromas of pole beans and alfalfa get this racy Sauvignon Blanc going. It’s certainly fresh and lively on the palate, where green, briny flavors of passion fruit and citrus fin-ish minerally and lasting. Evaton, Inc. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA

87 Caliterra 2012 Reserva Estate Grown Sauvignon Blanc (Central Valley). For the

money, this delivers about as much Sauvignon Blanc character as one could ask for. Aromas of orange and grapefruit are basic but correct. The palate is a bit low on acid, thus the flavors veer toward warm and melony, with a citrusy base. A mild, yeasty finish says drink this


BUYINGGUIDEwine as soon as possible. Durango Imports, Inc. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $11

87 Concha y Toro 2012 Marques de Casa Concha Sauvignon Blanc (Leyda Valley).

Light, classic aromas of gooseberry, lime and nettle are good indicators of what’s to follow. That would be a high-acid, racy, seemingly early picked wine with flavors of lemon, Granny Smith apple and gooseberry. A last-ing, tangy, acidic finish is crackling as a lightning bolt. Excelsior Wines. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $23

87 Emiliana 2012 Novas Gran Reserva Made with Organically Grown Grapes

Sauvignon Blanc (San Antonio). Initial aromas of peach pit, match stick and citrus settle on minerality. This is juicy and bright in the mouth, with good acid-ity and indications that the grapes were picked early to beat 2012’s heat. Briny, salty, tangy flavors are normal for coastal San Antonio, while the finish is racy and cit-rusy. Banfi Vintners. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $16

87 Errazuriz 2012 Max Reserva Sauvignon Blanc (Aconcagua Valley). Hay, straw,

match stick and minerally aromas outweigh this wine’s fruit scents by a measurable margin. This is chunky and a bit soft in the mouth, a reflection of 2012’s heat. And while it’s round as a ball, it’s slightly vegetal and bitter tasting on the palate, with grapefruit and bell pepper flavors. Vintus LLC. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $19

87 Mancura 2012 Guardián Reserva Sauvi-gnon Blanc (Casablanca Valley). Although

this opens with slightly hard, stalky aromas, it picks up character in the mouth. Flavors of lemon, lime, passion fruit and green apple are solid, while the wine’s acidity functions as a proper palate cleanser. This offers good value and overall quality. MHW, Ltd. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $10

87 Morandé 2012 Reserva Sauvignon Blanc (Casablanca Valley). Feline aromas of net-

tle, passion fruit, green herbs and sweat are not unusual for Casablanca Sauvignon Blanc. This is crisp, juicy and good in a normal way, while minerally citrus and pas-sion fruit flavors finish with only mild pithy bitterness. Grupo Belen USA. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $14

87 Veramonte 2012 Ritual Sauvignon Blanc (Casablanca Valley). With yeasty aromas of

Animal Crackers, vanilla and pear, this is more warm, soft and sweet than in the past. The year’s warm charac-teristics are draped all over the palate, which is soft and wide. Flavors of creamy white fruits and vanilla finish with lychee and grapefruit. This lacks some spine and vivacity but will be good through the end of the year. Huneeus Vintners. —M.S. abv: 14.1% Price: $20

87 Viña Casablanca 2012 Nimbus Single Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc (Casablanca

Valley). Crisp aromas of nettle, citrus and tarragon are not too extreme or edgy. A round, citrusy, correct palate offers flavors of pithy citrus and grapefruit. The finish is mild and chunky, with modest flavors. Drink now. Santa Carolina. —M.S. abv: 13.8% Price: $19

86 Chilensis 2012 Reserva Estate Bottled Sauvignon Blanc (Maule Valley). Despite

showing neutrality on the bouquet, you will find modest salinic, citrusy aromas. The palate feels round and good, with flavors of orange and briny lime. A fleshy feeling, citrusy tasting finish is nice even if it isn’t overly zesty. Drink now. Vici Wine and Spirits. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $12

85 Anakena 2012 Tama Vineyard Selection Sauvignon Blanc (Leyda Valley). Aromas

of passion fruit, tangerine, bell pepper and grass lead to a plump palate with soft acids. Flavors of pithy, slightly bitter green fruits, bell pepper and passion fruit end in a modest finish that rapidly loses steam. Evaton, Inc. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $15

85 Concha y Toro 2012 Casillero del Diablo Reserva Sauvignon Blanc (Casablanca

Valley). Although this presents itself on the bouquet as being a bit soft and mealy, the palate is solid albeit chunky and blocky. Standard citrus and lemon flavors hold onto some tang on the finish. Overall, this is clean and friendly but a bit dull. Excelsior Wines. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $12

85 Undurraga 2012 U Estate Grown Sauvi-gnon Blanc (Maipo Valley). Fleshy, tropi-

cal aromas with a touch of varietal snap set up a green palate with sweet lime and scallion flavors. The finish shows ripeness and tropical notes before turning heavy. Drink this well chilled. Testa Wines Of The World. —M.S. abv: NA Price: $11

85 Veramonte 2012 La Gloria Sauvignon Blanc (Casablanca Valley). Mild citrus aro-

mas come with green notes. This is a medium-level Sau-vignon Blanc without a lot of acidic snap. Melon and grapefruit flavors are friendly, simple and chunky, while overall this shows characterisitcs of a warm, bland vin-tage. Huneeus Vintners. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $12

84 De Martino 2012 Estate Made with Or-ganic Grapes Sauvignon Blanc (Maipo

Valley). Oily, salinic aromas of match stick and pickled white fruits offer up a pinched palate with briny, stalky flavors of burnt orange and passion fruit. A briny tast-ing, clampy finish doesn’t do much to bring this around. Opici Wines. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $14

84 San Pedro 2012 Epica Sauvignon Blanc (Central Valley). Gritty match-stick aromas

come with grapefruit and citrus scents. This is lifted and entirely regular for Chilean Sauvignon Blanc. Flavors of lemon, lime and grapefruit are soft and mealy for such

a young wine, while bitterness enters the frame on the finish. Shaw-Ross International Importers. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $11

84 Santa Carolina 2012 Ocean Side Sauvi-gnon Blanc (San Antonio). Stalky, lightly

vegetal aromas come with notes of match stick and bit-terness. This feels fresh in the mouth but tastes briny, with citrus, jalapeño and green bean accents. A bland, pithy finish feels round. Drink now. Santa Carolina. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $16

84 Vaya Vadiso 2012 Sauvignon Blanc (Cen-tral Valley). Nectarine and tangerine aromas

come with a floral note and a whiff of sea foam. This is light in acidity, so the palate is round and chunky. Fla-vors of citrus and melon finish pithy and slightly bitter. Winery Exchange. —M.S. abv: 12% Price: $10

83 Leyendas de Familia 2012 Reserva Sau-vignon Blanc (Maule Valley). This is light

and fresh, with melony aromas. It’s plump and wan-ing on the palate, with a splash of citric acidity. Mealy nectarine flavors lead to a stalky finish that loses steam. AIKO INC. —M.S. abv: 12.5% Price: $10

83 Vistamar 2012 Brisa Sauvignon Blanc (Central Valley). Aromas of orange blossom

and pineapple juice are not substantial. In the mouth, this is chunky and plump, with oily peach and nectarine flavors mixed with some green bean. A heavy finish with little spine provides minimal cut and freshness. Deutsch Family Wine & Spirits. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $9

82 Misiones de Rengo 2012 Sauvignon Blanc (Central Valley). This mild Sauvignon

Blanc offers simple citrus and passion fruit aromas in front of an oily-feeling, pulpy palate. Flavors of vinai-grette, cactus and grapefruit finish with mealy lemon and orange notes. Misa Imports. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $10

82 Vistamar 2012 Sepia Reserva Sauvignon Blanc (Casablanca Valley). The nose on

this low-acid white is neutral at best. The palate feels soft and mushy, while the flavors are mealy, creamy and bland, with touches of passion fruit and citrus. This will have a very short shelf life. Deutsch Family Wine & Spirits. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $12

81 Arauco 2012 Sauvignon Blanc (Central Valley). Punchbowl sweetness and pineapple

aromas come in front of a chunky palate with banana and oily green-fruit flavors. A short finish is heavy be-fore it fades. Dangerous Wine Group. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $10

80 Black Box 2012 Sauvignon Blanc (Cen-tral Valley). Mild, powdery and innocuous on

the nose, this boxed wine is dilute and citrusy in the

WineMag.com | 39

mouth, with tart orange and lime flavors. Constellation Brands, Inc. —M.S. abv: 12% Price: $25/3 L

WHITE BLEND

83 Anakena 2011 Ona Special Reserve Ries-ling-Chardonnay-Viognier (Leyda Valley).

This unusual blend of Riesling, Chardonnay and Viog-nier is toasty but also stalky smelling, with modest fruit aromas. The palate is plump and simple feeling, with chunky weight and salty flavors of roast corn and bland citrus. Oak and saline define the finish. Evaton, Inc. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $18

ROSÉS

86 Calcu 2012 Rosé (Colchagua Valley). A composed bouquet of field notes, nettle, tanger-

ine and passion fruit is almost like Sauvignon Blanc. The palate feels lifted and tangy, while flavors of lime, pie cherry and plum skins set up a long, pure, driving finish with cleansing acidity and lasting citrus flavors. Global Vineyard Importers. —M.S. abv: 12% Price: $14

83 Apaltagua 2012 Estate Grown Rosé Car-menère (Central Valley). Briny citrus and

sulfuric match-stick aromas lead to an edgy but fresh palate. Flavors of dry citrus and generic tropical fruits finish with citric acidity and monotone juiciness. Over-all, this is a tart, fresh cleanser. Global Vineyard Import-ers. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $12

82 Maquis 2012 Rosé (Colchagua Valley). Sweaty, briny, pickled aromas are aggressive

and pointed. In the mouth, there’s battery acid sharp-ness running alongside pickled, citrusy flavors. An an-gular, crisp finish is expected given this wine’s acid level. Global Vineyard Importers. —M.S. abv: 12% Price: $19

80 Lomas del Valle 2012 Coastal Cool Cli-mate Rosé (Casablanca Valley). To the

eye and on the nose, this is as light as a pink wine gets. But in the mouth, it’s heavy and cloying, while the fla-vor profile is totally dominated by sweetness, leaving a mealy, chunky, cloying finish. Winery Direct. —M.S. abv: 12.5% Price: $14

CABERNET SAUVIGNON

90 Ochagavia 2010 Raices Nobles Cabernet Sauvignon (Maipo Valley). This wine from

the Santa Carolina family opens with ripe blackberry, prune and minerally aromas. It’s rubbery and deep on the palate, with dark, toasty flavors of blackberry and bitter chocolate. A lightly herbal and spicy tasting finish with medium intensity fades away with lactic creami-ness. Santa Carolina. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $21

88 Casas del Bosque 2010 Gran Bosque Private Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon

(Maipo Valley). Loamy earth, leather, baked ber-ry and creamy oak aromas set up an edgy, grating, ag-gressive feeling palate with licorice, blackberry, toast and nutmeg flavors. A toasty, dark, minty and spicy fin-ish hits hard with dry pepper and toast flavors. Drink through 2016. American Importing. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $55

88 Concha y Toro 2010 Gran Reserva Serie Riberas Ribera del Linguiririca Caber-

net Sauvignon (Colchagua Valley). Smooth berry aromas offer a touch of raisiny overripeness. The bou-quet also brings alfalfa green and tobacco aromas. In the mouth, this is chunky and flabby, with loamy rich-ness. Flavors of prune, blackberry and loam hollow out and finish with medium length and not much kick. Banfi Vintners. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $18

88 Oveja Negra 2010 Single Vineyard Cab-ernet Sauvignon (Maule Valley). Oveja

Negra consistently produces a very good Cabernet with inky darkness and concentrated aromas of black fruits and toast. This vintage is saturated on the tongue, with lactic notes as well as acidic cut. Blackberry flavors mix with creamy oak and tangy acidity to create a fresh, hon-est impression. Vici Wine and Spirits. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $18

88 Siegel 2011 Reserve Cabernet Sauvi-gnon (Central Valley). Good yet generic aro-

mas of spicy berry and ripe plum are clean and inviting. A juicy palate deals lightly baked flavors of spiced berry and cassis. A medium-long finish is tasty and feels right. Kysela Père et Fils. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $12

88 Undurraga 2011 Aliwen Reserva Caber-net Sauvignon (Maipo Valley-Colchagua

Valley). Roasted berry and cassis aromas are basic and familiar. The palate on this varietal Cabernet is grabby yet solid, with sweet, baked flavors of cassis, berry and chocolate. Hints of toast and darkness rise up on what amounts to a rubbery feeling finish. Testa Wines Of The World. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $13

88 Undurraga 2011 Reserva Especial Si-baris Cabernet Sauvignon (Maipo Val-

ley). After this opens with resiny, barbecued aromas, dark berry fruit scents and density take over. The palate on this fairly full Cabernet is creamy and a touch syrupy, while flavors of plum and blackberry finish with choco-late and some heat. Given 2011’s cool conditions, this is ripe and healthy. Testa Wines Of The World. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $16

87 Caliterra 2010 Tributo Single Vineyard Block # Quillay Cabernet Sauvignon

(Colchagua Valley). This cool-vintage Cabernet is a bit grassy and herbal on the nose, with standard ber-ry aromas lurking in the backdrop. A tight, raw, driv-ing palate feels focused but a touch raw, while herbal, dried flavors of plum and raspberry end with peppery

spice, minty flavors and hard residual acidity. Durango Imports, Inc. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $16

87 De Martino 2011 Estate Made with Or-ganic Grapes Cabernet Sauvignon (Mai-

po Valley). Dry, dusty cherry and cassis aromas are good and a touch earthy. A full, rubbery-feeling pal-ate offers good bounce and life, while snappy plum and berry flavors end with a wave of oaky resin and warmth. For everyday Cabernet this is quite good. Opici Wines. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $14

87 San Pedro 2011 Castilla de Molina Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon (Central

Valley). For large-production Cabernet, this is snap-py and crisp on the nose, then equally awake and lively in the mouth. Flavors of red berry and roast plum are standard; a slightly aggressive and hot finish is strong, spicy and shows integrity. Shaw-Ross International Im-porters. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $13

87 Viña Casas Patronales 2010 Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon (Maule Valley).

Bashful, mild aromas of herbal berry fruits and mint are followed by a full, round and solid feeling palate. Fla-vors of blackberry, cassis and blueberry register as fair-ly ripe and dark, while the finish displays toasty notes, spice flavors and mild heat. This is a step up from good and basic. Brotherhood, America’s Oldest Winery. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $11

86 Casa Viva 2010 Reserve Cabernet Sau-vignon (Rapel Valley). Initial gaseous, rub-

bery aromas subside with time in the glass. This remains minty and herbal on the nose, while olive, eucalyptus and red-fruit flavors carry the palate to a firm, solid-feel-ing, minty and lightly green finish. Indigo Wine Group. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $13

86 Concha y Toro 2011 Casillero del Diab-lo Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon (Central

Valley). Rubbery berry aromas carry a note of vanilla. This feels firm and choppy but not too rough. Rubber, berry fruits and herbal notes define the flavor profile, while the finish is solid in feel, with a minty taste. Excel-sior Wines. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $11

86 Emiliana 2011 Natura Cabernet Sauvi-gnon (Central Valley). Minty aromas rest on

top of scratchy raspberry scents. This feels a touch raw and choppy, with grating tannins pumping up herbal berry flavors that come with a carob-influenced after-taste. A short, lightly herbal finish feels good and solid. Banfi Vintners. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $11

86 Lapostolle 2011 Casa Grand Selec-tion Cabernet Sauvignon (Rapel Valley).

Heavy, baked aromas of black plum, berry and rubber are dense and chunky. This is big, grabby and tannic


BUYINGGUIDEin feel, with grapey flavors of blackberry and earthy to-bacco. A minty, round, soft finish is plump and grabby. Terlato Wines International. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $12

86 Mancura 2011 Guardián Reserva Cab-ernet Sauvignon (Maipo Valley). Scratchy

berry aromas come with a hint of sweet-smelling plastic, but overall this bargain-priced Cab is good and welcom-ing. The palate has a pure, medium-bodied feel, while flavors of baked berry, cassis and chocolate finish with a mocha taste and mild heat. MHW, Ltd. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $10

86 Maray 2011 Reserva Cabernet Sauvi-gnon (Maipo Valley). A dark violet color

properly indicates that this is intense; sappy berry and cassis aromas are dominant, with some chocolate as well. In the mouth, this is grabby and hard, while ber-ry, rubber, spice and herbal flavors culminate in a finish that tastes roasted and feels tannic. Biagio Cru & Estate Wines, LLC. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $17

86 Valle Secreto 2010 First Edition Caber-net Sauvignon (Cachapoal Valley). On

the nose, this Cab delivers a mix of vinegar, rubber and jumpy berry aromas. The palate is smooth but bland and soft, while flavors of licorice, prune and herbal notes finish easy. Premium Wine House. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $18

86 Vistamar 2011 Sepia Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon (Maipo Valley). This Cabernet

opens with a light whiff of green leafiness, then cola, berry and rhubarb notes appear. The mouthfeel is lively and crisp, with a shot of acidity in the midpalate stick-ing out. Slightly tart flavors of berry and cassis are spicy and herbal, while the finish is quick. Grupo Belen USA. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $12

85 Calcu 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon (Col-chagua Valley). Bright raspberry and leather

aromas set up a tight palate ringing with acidity. That creates a narrow flavor profile with drawn cherry and currant flavors. A minty, lightly herbal finish carries notes of leather and oak-based bacon, which frank-ly seems a bit forced given the simplicity of the wine. Global Vineyard Importers. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $14

85 Ventisquero 2011 Reserva Cabernet Sau-vignon (Colchagua Valley). Pencil eraser,

tobacco, cedar and eucalyptus aromas lead to a mildly astringent palate with spongy flavors of herbal plum and cassis. The finish is also herbal in flavor, with a solid feel. San Francisco Wine Exchange. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $13

85 Viña Requingua 2010 Toro de Piedra Grand Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon

(Colchagua Valley). Hot berry, leather and earthy aromas introduce a slightly scratchy palate with wiry, herbal flavors of plum and berry. This is fresh in feel

but basic and herbal tasting, with no particular flavors sticking out. Call it basic Chilean Cabernet in every way, shape and form, Puerto Viejo Wines. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $15

81 Sombras del Sol 2011 Cabernet Sauvi-gnon (Colchagua Valley). Sometimes you

get what you pay for. This value-priced wine is feral smelling and strange on the nose. The palate feel is probably the best part, while the flavors are candied and foxy. Banks Channel. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $8

80 San Pedro 2011 Epica Cabernet Sauvi-gnon (Central Valley). Stalky, burnt aromas

are hardly the welcome mat one is looking for. In the mouth, this is sweet and soft, with a syrupy mouthfeel and candied flavors of berry fruits that come across fake in nature. This is 100% manipulated in style. Shaw-Ross International Importers. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $11

MALBEC

90 Luis Felipe Edwards 2010 LFE900 Mal-bec (Colchagua Valley). Blueberry, graham

cracker and mild herbal notes define the nose on this high-altitude Malbec from Chile. The palate is rich and a bit zingy, with jammy density and mountainous flavors of boysenberry, blueberry and toast. A pure and zesty finish is the right ending to this dark, lusty Malbec. Do-maine Select Wine Estates. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $55

89 Santa Carolina 2010 Reserva de Familia Malbec (Rapel Valley). This is black in col-

or, and on the nose it’s jammy and intense, with slightly reduced blueberry and exotic cumin scents. The palate offers a smooth texture, depth and balance alongside toasty, blackened flavors of berry, cassis and pepper. A chocolaty, lightly toasted finish is a fine ending to this lively, tasty Malbec. Santa Carolina. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $20

87 Viña Santacruz 2007 Chamán Gran Reserva Malbec (Colchagua Valley). This

earthy, concentrated Malbec is dense on the nose, with herbal flavors of blackberry, spice and heat. A toasty finish carries a choppy feel and fresh acidity, while the finish tastes toasty but doesn’t rise up or improve. Over-all, this is perfectly good but not complex. Drink now. Wines to the World. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $25

MERLOT

87 Viña Bisquertt 2011 La Joya Gran Reser-va Merlot (Colchagua Valley). This opens

with a good mix of tobacco, black cherry, cola and mo-cha aromas. In the mouth, this offers good body, size and balance along with lightly herbal, leafy flavors of mossy black fruits. A mellow finish with a solid struc-ture is a welcome ending. Prestige Wine Group. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $15

86 Echeverria 2010 Reserva Merlot (Cu-ricó Valley). Brandied berry, root beer, char

and toast aromas define the bouquet. This is wiry and a touch acidic on the tongue, but only initially. That same acid-first quality is found on the flavor profile, where things go from shrill to soft in no time. A simple, slightly tangy finish is the conclusion. Ararat Import/Export Co. LLC. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $12

85 Viña Casas Patronales 2010 Reserva Merlot (Maule Valley). This opaque Merlot is

charred to the max, with burnt coffee, grilled beef and campfire aromas. The palate is wiry but mostly good in feel, while mossy, herbal-leaning flavors of toast, black-berry and black pepper finish with coffee and herbal notes. Brotherhood, America’s Oldest Winery. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $11

83 Morandé 2010 Reserva Merlot (Casa-blanca Valley). Aromas of tire rubber, euca-

lyptus and scratchy black fruits set up a shear, acidic palate with flavors of salty, herbal, somewhat sour berry and plum. A rough, scouring finish is par for the course. Grupo Belen USA. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $14

CARMENÈRE

90 Morandé 2009 Edición Limitada Carme-nère (Maipo Valley). Earthy aromas include

pencil eraser, wild herbs and eucalyptus along with tea and blackberry. This is very smooth and lush in the mouth, a reflection of a warm vintage. Flavors of olive, herbs, tobacco and black fruits are textbook for the va-riety, while a mellow, polished finish is silky and easy-going. Drink through 2016. Grupo Belen USA. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $23

89 Santa Helena 2011 Notas de Guarda Car-menère (Colchagua Valley). Dark, rubbery,

full-force aromas of toast and minerally black fruits lead to a round, loamy, not too concentrated palate with loamy, toasty flavors of chunky blackberry and dark plum. A lasting, herbal finish makes this good and easy to like. Drink now. Misa Imports. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $39

89 Veramonte 2011 Primus Carmenère (Col-chagua Valley). Similar to the 2010 Primus,

this is earthy, wholesome and soundly built. Aromas of meaty fruit, leather and licorice are earthy and invit-ing. The palate feels chewy and medium to full, with dark plum, carob, loam and blackberry flavors. A warm, mildly baked finish concludes this round, very nice red. Huneeus Vintners. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $20

88 Concha y Toro 2011 Marques de Casa Concha Carmenère (Peumo). Concentrat-

ed blackberry, leather and loam aromas are big, bold and bullish. This is saturated and heavy in the mouth, with leather, roasted berry and meaty flavors. A round finish comes with just enough snappy acidity to keep it

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lively, although there is some choppiness and grit to it. Excelsior Wines. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $26

88 Errazuriz 2011 Single Vineyard Max Reserva Estates Carmenère (Aconcagua

Valley). Initially this smells oaky, pasty and lactic, but with time it opens to reveal blackberry and cassis aro-mas. The palate is lively and offers healthy acidic cut. Flavors of creamy berry, oak and plum end with a creamy feeling and lightly lactic tasting finish. Overall this is a polished wine with minimal varietal character. Vintus LLC. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $20

88 Ventisquero 2010 Queulat Gran Reser-va Single Vineyard Carmenère (Maipo

Valley). Savory aromas of grilled meats and barbecue sauce come with resiny oak and carob notes. This feels solid in the mouth, with an oak-driven texture that’s cut by nice acidity. Core flavors follow the nose: savory berry with resiny oak, herbs and BBQ notes. Spearmint flavors and racy acidity drive the finish. San Francisco Wine Exchange. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $18

87 Caliterra 2010 Tributo Single Vineyard Block # Boldo Carmenère (Colchagua

Valley). Ripe berry, graphite and cola aromas blend with oak and herbal scents. A staunch, drawing palate hollows out in feel while showing flavors of coconut, wood resin, herbal berry and plum. Olive flavors control the finish, which is short on filling and bulk. Durango Imports, Inc. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $16

87 Carmen 2010 Gran Reserva Apalta Vine-yard Carmenère (Colchagua Valley).

Rooty aromas of tree bark and cola blend with loamy plum and berry scents to create a good bouquet. This is mostly smooth and solid on the palate, with chunky flavors of spiced plum and herbal olive. A peppery fin-ish with herbal, licorice flavors suggests basic Bordeaux. Trinchero Family Estates. —M.S. abv: 13.8% Price: $15

86 Santa Alicia 2010 Gran Reserva de Los Andes Carmenère (Maipo Valley). A

scratchy aromatic opening that includes scents of olive, spiced berry and vanilla leads to a tight feeling, raw and choppy palate with cherry, plum, minty herb, olive and spice flavors. On the finish, a mild green flavor blends with loamy, raisiny notes. Halby Marketing. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $15

86 Viña Casas Patronales 2010 Reserva Carmenère (Maule Valley). Toasty, tarry

aromas include dark berry and baked plum notes. This offers ample tartaric acidity to cut the wine’s weight, while flavors of berry, tea, mint and herbs lead to a good tasting but hollow feeling finish. Brotherhood, Ameri-ca’s Oldest Winery. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $11

85 Tussock Jumper 2010 Carmenère (Col-chagua Valley). Wild berry, herb and rhu-

barb aromas precede a wiry, grabby palate with generic berry flavors, herbal accents and spice. Juicy, tartaric-feeling acidity creates a tangy impression on the finish, yet there’s enough body and good flavors to hold things together. Tri-Vin Imports. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $11

84 Concha y Toro 2010 Marques de Casa Concha Carmenère (Peumo). Coconut and

vanilla aromas announce new oak, and along with that there are aromas of blackberry and toast. In the mouth, tangy flavors sit on top of standard berry and spice, while acidity returns on what amounts to a lean, sharp finish. Banfi Vintners. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $26

84 San Nicolas 2010 Victoria Reserve Car-menère (Curicó Valley). Gritty, tarry aromas

of black fruits carry a certain sharpness. The mouthfeel is clampy and narrow, with raw acidity. Flavorwise, this is acid-driven, thus expect racy red-fruit notes with a stalky, burnt offset. The finish is peppery and lean. Montcalm Wine Importers. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $12

84 TerraNoble 2010 Gran Reserva Carme-nère (Maule Valley). This bodega always puts

out a charred, roasted Carmenère, and this keeps the tradition going. Burnt, roasted aromas of coffee, camp-fire and blackberry lead to a full but angular feeling pal-ate with vinegar-like acidity. Herbal, clipped flavors are mostly charred, while herbal black-fruit flavors vie with even more char on the finish. Winebow. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $20

83 Carma 2010 Estate Grown Carmenère (Maule Valley). Soft aromas of raisin and

prune lack vitality and indicate what’s to come. The wine feels flabby and awkward on the palate, with only light acidity pumping up generic flavors that include coffee, herbal berry and chocolate. Daquopa Brands. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $10

SYRAH

91 Concha y Toro 2009 Terrunyo Costa Los Boldos Vineyard Block 3 Syrah (Casa-

blanca Valley). After this opens with gritty aromas of tarry asphalt, black olive, mint leaf and herbal ber-ry fruits, it settles and deepens. The palate is tight, grabby and firmly tannic, with peppery flavors of dark berry fruit and olive. Toasted flavors rise up on the fin-ish, which is long and masculine. This is an alert, lively, power-packed Syrah to drink through 2017. Excelsior Wines. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $50

89 Viña Casas Patronales 2010 Reserva Privada Syrah (Maule Valley). Baked, spi-

cecake aromas incorporate cola, raisin, herbs and for-esty notes. This feels meaty and tannic, with a strong grip. Flavors of blackberry, blueberry, herbs and choco-late finish firm but mild, with richness and structure.

Despite being a bit heavy, this is a really good example of Chilean Syrah. Marsalle/Stoler Company. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $19

88 Errazuriz 2011 Aconcagua Costa Single Vineyard Syrah (Aconcagua Valley). This

black-colored Syrah offers berry, oak and secure over-all aromas. The palate is juicy and acidic, with plenty of cut to the palate. Flavors of plum and black fruits are earthy, toasty and lightly herbal, while this finishes with zesty acidity, lots of pulse and spice notes. Vintus LLC. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $NA

88 Maray 2010 Limited Edition Syrah (Li-marí Valley). Rubber, shoe polish, blackberry

and blueberry aromas control the bouquet on this Li-marí Syrah. This feels gritty and tannic, while flavors of roasted black fruits and chocolate come across a touch reduced. Toast, chocolate and ripe berry flavors define the finish. Biagio Cru & Estate Wines, LLC. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $20

88 Matetic 2011 EQ Syrah (San Antonio). Aromas of graphite, chocolate, olive, herbs and

berry fruits open this cool-climate Syrah. Laser-beam acidity comes on like gangbusters, while those sharp ac-ids create racy, almost tart flavors of currant and huckle-berry. The finish is more flashy and racy than generous and tasty, and thus crispness is the defining character of this wine. Quintessential Wines. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $43

88 Valle Secreto 2010 First Edition Syrah (Cachapoal Valley). This starts with dense,

murky, earthy aromas of stewed black fruits and rubber. In the mouth, it feels full and aggressive, with rubbery tannins supporting thick, herbal flavors of rooty black fruits. A chunky, chewy, layered finish is generous in ev-ery way. Premium Wine House. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $18

87 Casa Rivas 2010 Gran Reserva Syrah (Maipo Valley). A green, minty wave of chal-

lenging aromas comes with black olive, coconutty oak and graphite. The palate is bullish, scratchy in feel and tannic, with feral, herbal flavors of blackberry, juniper and wild herbs. Herbal and wild are the best words to describe this Syrah. Global Wines Distribution. —M.S. abv: 15% Price: $19

87 La Playa 2011 Axel Syrah (Limarí Valley). This Syrah begins with subtle, mellow aromas

of herbs and black fruits. A plump, round, chunky pal-ate carries flavors of lemony oak, loam, pepper and soft blackberry. This is solid but regular on the finish, where herbal flavors are slightly toasted and show some heat. Top Wine Chile. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $17

87 Matetic 2011 Corralillo Syrah (San An-tonio). A dark color belies this Sryah’s snappy,

cool-vintage character. Graphite, cola, vanilla and co-conut scents cover blackberry aromas. As stated, this is crisp and snappy on the palate, with herbal, salty flavors of spicy berry, pepper, licorice and earth. A hard, herb-


BUYINGGUIDEal finish confirms 2011’s cool conditions. Quintessential Wines. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $28

86 Luis Felipe Edwards 2011 Marea Syrah (Leyda Valley). No two ways about it: this Syr-

ah smells, tastes and finishes with stewy tomato notes and earthy, fruity flavors. The palate feels full but sort of flat, while the flavor profile consists of earthy, stewy berry flavors that veer toward wan and overripe. Prune and earth notes define the finish. Domaine Select Wine Estates. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $30

PINOT NOIR

89 Undurraga 2011 T.H. Pinot Noir (Leyda Valley). Scratchy plum and spice aromas are

entirely typical for coastal Chile. This wine feels racy and a bit high in acidity, while flavors of orange peel, pie cherry, red plum and mild oak end with juicy length and an indication that this is a quality wine, especially by Chilean Pinot Noir standards. Testa Wines Of The World. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $25

88 Concha y Toro 2011 Marques de Casa Concha Pinot Noir (Limarí Valley). It has

taken Concha y Toro a few years to get on the right path with Pinot Noir, but this cool-vintage wine is positive in nature. A dark color and toasty, charred aromas of spicy dark fruits set up a smooth, fairly deep and layered pal-ate with cherry, plum and berry flavors. The finish, like the nose, is toasty, with cherry and spice flavors blend-ing with obvious oak. Banfi Vintners. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $22

88 Leyda 2011 Single Vineyard Las Brisas Vineyard Pinot Noir (Leyda Valley). This

Pinot is aromatic; rhubarb, dried raspberry, rubber, prickly herbal notes and spice scents all vie for atten-tion. This is solid and creamy in feel, with cutting acidity and herbal, lightly leafy flavors of dried, spicy red fruits. A lightly herbal tasting finish is the finale. Winebow. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $22

87 Anakena 2011 Ona Special Reserve Pi-not Noir (Leyda Valley). Tea, tomato, rasp-

berry and spice aromas are typical for Leyda Pinot. The body is a bit light and hollow, but that also means it’s not heavy. Raspberry and spiced tea flavors control the pal-ate, while plum, spice and light herb flavors work the almost dilute finish. Evaton, Inc. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $18

87 Emiliana 2011 Novas Gran Reserva Made with Organically Grown Grapes Pi-

not Noir (Casablanca Valley). Rubbery red-berry aromas blend with spicy field scents to create a true Pi-not nose that’s a bit strained. This is intense, chunky and slightly herbal, with red-fruit flavors, spice notes and some heat and oak on the finish. Banfi Vintners. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $16

87 Laroche 2011 Viña Punto Alto Pinot Noir (Casablanca Valley). Earthy, crusty aromas

of leather, minerality, black plum and raspberry set up a full, creamy, resiny feeling palate. A mix of hard spice, licorice, raspberry and heavy oak flavors finish with heat and not a lot of finesse. For Chilean Pinot, this is true to form and good. Wilson Daniels Ltd. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $20

87 Matetic 2011 EQ Pinot Noir (San Anto-nio). Heavy aromas of leather, plum and rhu-

barb lead to a forceful, grating, driving palate with herb-al, woody, salty flavors of plum, raspberry and cherry. There’s some heat and heft to the finish, but as it runs out you get honest Pinot complexity. Quintessential Wines. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $40

86 Casas del Bosque 2011 Pequeñas Pro-ducciones Estate Bottled Pinot Noir

(Casablanca Valley). Despite cold conditions in 2011, this Pinot is dark in color and full on the nose, where heavy, raisiny black-fruit aromas hold court. Fla-vors of toasty oak, plum, berry and raisin finish pep-pery, oaky and with vanilla and prune notes. Drink now. American Importing. —M.S. abv: 15% Price: $41

86 Chilcas 2011 Single Vineyard Pinot Noir (Maule Valley). Despite showing a note of vin-

egar on the nose, this benefits from a good offset of red-berry perfume and leathery scents. This feels tight, rub-bery and a bit tannic, with plum, raspberry and spice flavors leading to a solid finish. For Chilean Pinot Noir, this is good but not spectacular. Vici Wine and Spirits. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $18

86 Errazuriz 2011 Max Reserva Pinot Noir (Casablanca Valley). Despite showing dusty

plum and cherry aromas, this comes across lean on the bouquet, a defining characteristic that’s confirmed on the palate via zesty, crisp acids and raw, tangy, herbal red-fruit flavors. A dry finish turns hot, an appropriate ending to this tightly wound Pinot Noir. Vintus LLC. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $20

86 François Lurton 2012 Hacienda Arauca-no Reserva Pinot Noir (Central Valley).

Spiced plum and raspberry aromas are on the full and dark side. This offers good volume and a medium-plus body with black cherry and black currant flavors. A dark-leaning, peppery finish tops off this full-fruited Pi-not. Winesellers Ltd. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $13

86 Leyda 2011 Classic Pinot Noir (Leyda Valley). The nose on this everyday Chilean Pi-

not Noir is pinched, prickly and scratchy but still true to the grape. Mild yet creamy tasting oak flavors blend with herbal-leaning raspberry and plum, while the fin-ish is grabby and resiny. Winebow. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $14

86 Lomas del Valle 2012 Coast Cool Climate Pinot Noir (Casablanca Valley). Piercing

sour raspberry aromas introduce an edgy, scratchy feel-ing wine with a combo of minty, herbal pie cherry and red plum flavors. This dries out and finishes modestly, but always with true Pinot Noir character. Winery Di-rect. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $17

85 Apaltagua 2012 Reserva Tricao Valley Estate Grown Pinot Noir (Curicó Valley).

Heat and earthy, leathery aromas are the initial blast here. This is a zesty, raw Pinot with punchy, tart rasp-berry and red plum flavors. Throughout this runs bright and juicy, with tangy acidity creating a citrus-like finish. Global Vineyard Importers. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $12

85 Arboleda 2011 Pinot Noir (Aconcagua Valley). This opens with hard, charred, rubbery

aromas. The palate feels tangy and shear, with jumpy acidity that creates raw raspberry and herbal flavors. The finish is similar: bold acidity, oak-based toast notes and herbal red-fruit flavors. Dourthe USA. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $NA

85 Rios de Chile 2012 Reserva Pinot Noir (Cachapoal Valley). Scratchy red plum aro-

mas are sort of sharp and mulchy. This has a standard, healthy feel along with dry, oaky plum flavors. Mild spice and limited fruit character define the short finish. W. Direct. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $15

85 Vistamar 2011 Sepia Reserva Pinot Noir (Casablanca Valley). Raspberry and rubbery

aromas come across gritty but improve with airing. This is lively in the mouth, with loud, slightly burnt flavors of spiced plum and raspberry. A hot, medicinal finish clos-es things out. Deutsch Family Wine & Spirits. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $12

84 Casas del Bosque 2011 Gran Reserva Estate Bottled Pinot Noir (Casablanca

Valley). This smells reedy and like beets blended with mint and other green herbs. The palate has a shrill feel, while the flavors trend toward herbal red plum, salt and oak. A green-leaning finish is choppy and high in acid. American Importing. —M.S. abv: 15% Price: $19

84 Maray 2011 Reserva Pinot Noir (Limarí Valley). Cherry and berry aromas are basic and

just good enough. This smacks down hard in the mouth with acidity, while flavors of tomato, red plum and me-dicinal berry end short and without a lot of substance. Biagio Cru & Estate Wines, LLC. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $17

84 Vistamar 2012 Sepia Reserva Pinot Noir (Casablanca Valley). Chemical smelling oak,

sawdust, plastic and milk chocolate aromas create a less-than-stellar nose. This is oaky/lactic feeling, with snap-py acidity cutting through the palate. Flavors of generic

WineMag.com | 43

red fruits and wood finish without much follow through Grupo Belen USA. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $12

RED BLENDS

92 Estampa 2009 Lacruz (Colchagua Val-ley). This blend of Carmenère, Cabernet and

Syrah sucks you in via spice, herb and black-fruit aro-mas. The palate feels smooth, rich and saturated, while minty, savory oak notes frame barbecued and black-fruit flavors. Now there’s more oak than anything on the fin-ish, but good acidity and balance suggest that things will settle with more time in bottle. Drink from 2014–2017. American Estates Wines, Inc. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $56

92 Matetic 2010 Corralillo Winemaker’s Blend (San Antonio). For full review see

page 6. Editors’ Choice. abv: 14.5% Price: $30

91 Maray 2009 Red (Limarí Valley). Elegant, subtle aromas of marzipan, mild oak and black

fruits are smooth and classy. The palate on this Syrah-led blend is full, open and attractive, with flavors of spice, herbs, toast, plum and berry fruits. A good, full, complex finish with integrated, positive toast and herb-al notes is as long as it should be and not aggressive. Drink through 2017. Biagio Cru & Estate Wines, LLC. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $30

91 Veramonte 2010 Primus The Blend (Col-chagua Valley). This Cabernet-led blend of

four grapes opens with slightly medicinal, granular aro-mas of latex and iodine, but with time earthy black-fruit scents take over. Primus delivers a dense, meaty mouth-feel and saturated, almost heavy flavors of ripe black-berry, blueberry and chocolate. Yes, it’s a touch plod-ding but for a big, bold wine it gets things right. Drink through 2016. Huneeus Vintners. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $NA

90 Alto Los Romeros 2009 El Alto (Colcha-gua Valley). A dense, slightly raisiny nose in-

dicates ripeness, but the palate on this blend of Cab-ernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Carmenere and Petit Verdot is healthy and not overly heavy. Creamy, oak-infused flavors of plum and berry are uncomplicated and bal-anced, while pastry, vanilla and berry fruits grace a long, harmonious finish. Drink through 2015. Domaine Se-lect Wine Estates. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $40

90 Chilcas 2010 Red One (Maule Valley). This red blend has characteristics of late-har-

vested grapes from a cool year. Aromas of prune and blueberry are cool and mellow but not lifted. The palate is smooth, with blackberry, baked plum and chocolate flavors. A mild, slightly pasty tasting finish is rich but hollows out quickly. Drink now. Vici Wine and Spirits. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $25

90 Emiliana 2010 Gê (Colchagua Valley). Foxy blueberry and jumpy aromas hint at vola-

tility and are a bit alarming. But give this normally excel-lent wine some time and it comes around. In the mouth, this is textured, tannic and a bit lactic. For flavors, look for lightly herbal blueberry and cassis. The 2010 vintage was cold by Chilean standards, and that is evident in this wine. Banfi Vintners. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $92

90 Estampa 2011 Estate Cabernet Sauvi-gnon-Petit Verdot (Colchagua Valley).

Dense cassis and berry aromas aren’t nuanced or com-plex but they sure are correct and ripe. Overall, this value-priced wine is rich and balanced, with good acid-ity and a chewy palate that softens up with time. Plum, berry, cassis and cherry flavors are tasty and easy to like. American Estates Wines, Inc. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $15

90 La Playa 2010 Axel Primero (Colchagua Valley). Oak, resin, vanilla and creamy aromas

run side by side with cherry, cassis and berry scents on this blend of Cabernet, Carmenère, Petit Verdot and Syrah. The palate is tight, juicy and textured, with good density. Flavors of creamy oak, mocha, raspberry and plum set up a medium-length, strong finish. Drink through 2017. Top Wine Chile. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $40

89 Flaherty 2009 Red (Aconcagua Valley). This blend of Syrah, Cabernet and Tempranillo

from American-born winemaker Ed Flaherty offers flo-ral aromas of raspberry and dusty plum. The palate feels fresh and vital, with good energy backing flavors of co-conut and vanilla along with plum, raspberry and cream. A mild, slightly juicy finish delivers a final shot of oaky vanilla. Southern Wine Group. —M.S. abv: 15% Price: $23

89 Luis Felipe Edwards 2010 LFE900 Sin-gle Vineyard (Colchagua Valley). Hailing

from a vineyard planted 900 meters above sea level, this Syrah- led blend is black as night, gaseous on the nose and loaded with heavy, ripe berry flavors. It’s rich, chewy, dense and delivers a truck load’s worth of black-berry, boysenberry, prune and chocolate on top of a rugged, brawny, saturated foundation. Domaine Select Wine Estates. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $35

89 Morandé 2009 Edicián Limitada Syrah-Cabernet Sauvignon (Central Valley).

Pointed, powerful aromas of herbs, olive and tobacco scream Chile. The palate on this blend of Syrah and Cabernet is moderately complex, albeit a bit clipped. Cassis, red plum, herbs and tobacco dominate the flavor profile, while the finish is smooth, with zero heat or bite. Drink through 2015. Grupo Belen USA. —M.S. abv: 14.8% Price: $25

89 Viña La Rosa 2010 Cuvée Don Reca Lim-ited Release (Cachapoal Valley). Boysen-

berry, cassis and baked plum aromas give this a berry driven outlook. The palate is thick and saturated but well balanced, with blackberry, cassis, tea and herbal fla-

vors. On the finish, plum, prune and baked flavors blend with spice to create a nice ending. Drink through 2016. Viña La Rosa USA. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $23

88 Caliboro Estate 2009 Erasmo (Maule Val-ley). This is an earthy, somewhat flat wine with

herbal berry aromas that fall away in quiet form. A full, grabby palate brings berry, raisin and tobacco flavors, all supported by a modest beam of acidity. A finish of earth, tobacco and mulchy flavors announce that 2009 was indeed a hot vintage in Chile. Palm Bay Interna-tional. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $30

88 Caliterra 2010 Tribute Edicion Limitada Carmenère-Malbec (Colchagua Valley).

A gritty, full-force bouquet is oaky, slightly lactic smell-ing, crusty and a little green. This blend of Carmenère and Malbec is mouthfilling, with tartaric bite and jumpy flavors of raspberry, plum and herbs. On the finish, it’s herbal and mildly green like on the nose, with tough-ness. Durango Imports, Inc. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $30

88 Leyendas de Familia 2011 Cachos de Oro Cabernet Sauvignon-Carmenère

(Maule Valley). Woody, grainy aromas of fresh-cut timber relax with airing. in the mouth, this is drawn and a touch rough, with full tannins supporting rugged fla-vors of oak, wood resin, spice and black fruits. A nicely textured finish with rubbery notes and length is satisfy-ing. AIKO INC. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $36

88 Vistamar 2009 Enki Carmenère-Carignan (Central Valley). This blend of 60% Car-

menère and 40% Carignan opens with campfire, cas-sis, chocolate, oak and minty aromas. A wall of acidity greets you on the palate, creating a clampy, rough feel. In terms of flavor, oak is up front and behind that there’s graphite and minty, herbal fruit in front of a finish with tobacco, vanilla and length. Grupo Belen USA. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $30

87 Caliterra 2010 Tribute Edicion Limitada Cabernet Franc-Petit Verdot (Colchagua

Valley). This blend of Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot opens with fiery, oaky aromas that include cherry, cassis and vanilla. The palate has a severe tartaric shear to it along with clampy tannins. High-toned flavors of rasp-berry and plum are propped up by blazing acidity, while the finish is herbal and peppery in taste, with a scouring feel. Durango Imports, Inc. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $30

87 Caliterra 2010 Tribute Edicion Limita-da Syrah-Cabernet Sauvignon-Viognier

(Colchagua Valley). Crusty aromas of black fruits mesh nicely with lemon peel and floral scents. The acid-ity here is noticeably high, which creates a scouring mouthfeel. Short flavors of berry and cassis are shrill, while the body and cushion offered by this blend of Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon and Viognier are modest at best. Durango Imports, Inc. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $30


BUYINGGUIDE

87 Mancura 2010 Gran Reserva Syrah- Cabernet Franc-Merlot (Casablanca Val-

ley). Dense, earthy aromas of blueberry and pencil lead lead to a big but slightly awkward palate that shows elevated cool-climate acidity and hard tannins. Herb-al, slightly pasty flavors of generic black fruits end in a clampy finish. The blend is Syrah, Cab Franc and Mer-lot. MHW, Ltd. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $15

87 Viña La Rosa 2010 La Capitana Es-tate Grown Cabernet Sauvignon-Merlot

(Cachapoal Valley). After early horsey aromas sub-side, this Cab-Merlot blend offers blackberry and leath-er scents in front of a standard feeling, round body with good acidity. Lightly roasted and salty flavors accent core berry tastes, while the finish is sound and comfort-able. Overall this is a nice wine from a tough vintage. Viña La Rosa USA. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $17

86 François Lurton 2010 Hacienda Arauca-no Clos de Lolol (Lolol Valley). A scratchy,

fiery opening of juniper, cheesy leather and berry fruit aromas settles with airing. This is tannic as a bag of rocks, with toasty, herbal, dark-fruit flavors. Throughout this feels abrasive, hard and blocky, with a finish of spice and chocolate flavors roughened by hard residual tan-nins. Winesellers Ltd. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $24

83 Viña Pérez Cruz 2007 Quelen Special Se-lection (Maipo Valley). No matter how you

cut it, this blend of Petit Verdot, Malbec and Carme-nère is herbaceous and loaded with green notes and punches of eucalyptus. In the mouth, it’s raw and grat-ing, while flavors of eucalyptus and herbal black fruits lead to a hard, tannic finish. South American Wine Im-porters. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $60

80 San Pedro 2011 Epica (Central Valley). All of the new Epica wines from San Pedro seem

highly manufactured and sweet. This blend is stalky and murky smelling, then heavy and cloying in the mouth, with sugar-meets-herbal flavors that finish hot and syr-upy. Shaw-Ross International Importers. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $11

AUSTRALIA

CHARDONNAY

93 Cullen 2010 Kevin John Chardonnay (Margaret River). One of Australia’s lead-

ing Chardonnays, this is wonderfully mouthfilling and fleshy, yet remains cool and sophisticated. Buttery, toasty and nutty notes accent grilled peach and pine-apple flavors, all pulled together on the finish by a refreshing squeeze of lime-driven citrus. Old Bridge Cellars. —J.C. abv: 13.5% Price: $109

93 Leeuwin Estate 2009 Art Series Chardon-nay (Margaret River). Leeuwin’s 2009 is a

worthy successor to the flamboyant 2008. While per-haps just a touch more restrained in aroma and flavor despite being higher in alcohol, it still shows off flashy notes of grilled peach and pineapple. As always, it’s full bodied and luscious without being overblown, and has a lingering finish. Old Bridge Cellars. —J.C. abv: 14.5% Price: $89

91 Frankland Estate 2011 Isolation Ridge Vineyard Chardonnay (Frankland River).

This is a full-bodied, lushly textured Chardonnay that manages to avoid the sensation of excess weight. Pear, melon and white peach notes are framed by understat-ed toasted nuttiness, while a long line of acid prolongs the harmonious finish. Drink now–2018. Quintessential Wines. —J.C. abv: 12.5% Price: $40

91 Plantagenet 2010 Chardonnay (Mount Barker). Hints of smoke, lemon curd and

grilled pineapple mark the nose, while the flavors run along similar lines—from grilled peach and pineapple to crème brûlée. It’s mouthfilling but gentle—a soft, ca-ressing style of Chardonnay that’s easy to sip again and again, thanks to a long-lingering citrus note on the fin-ish. Drink now. Old Bridge Cellars. Editors’ Choice. —J.C. abv: 13.5% Price: $21

91 Vasse Felix 2010 Heytesbury Chardon-nay (Margaret River). Surprisingly full bod-

ied, lush and expansive given its moderate alcohol level, this is a whirlwind of tropical fruit and buttered nuts on the nose. It then grows more refined and understated on the palate, where the flavors are white peach, melon and citrus. Negociants USA, Inc. —J.C. abv: 13% Price: $49

90 Stella Bella 2010 Chardonnay (Marga-ret River). This wine’s subtle underpinnings of

smoke, toasted hazelnuts and baking spices add layers of interest to the melon and citrus fruit. This is medium to full bodied and just a bit creamy on the palate, mak-ing it a nicely balanced, all-around solid Chardonnay for drinking over the next few years. Stella Bella Wines. —J.C. abv: 13% Price: $22

90 Vasse Felix 2011 Chardonnay (Margaret River). Vasse Felix’s 2011 Chardonnay is full

bodied and fleshy without going over the top. Toasty, grilled-bread notes mark the nose, while the palate un-furls into a mix of peach, melon and citrus flavors that finish clean and refreshing. Drink this well balanced wine over the next few years. Negociants USA, Inc. —J.C. abv: 12.5% Price: $22

89 Plantagenet 2011 Omrah Chardonnay (Western Australia). One of the best uno-

aked Aussie Chardonnays I’ve come across, this is sur-prisingly full bodied and lush, boasting ample pineapple and peach fruit. If it lacks a bit of texture and complex-ity for not having any oak, the price more than compen-

sates. Drink it over the next several months. Old Bridge Cellars. Editors’ Choice. —J.C. abv: 13.5% Price: $15

87 Leeuwin Estate 2010 Prelude Vineyards Chardonnay (Margaret River). Bold, mus-

cular and showing a bit of alcoholic warmth, this is a full-throttle Chardonnay loaded with flavor. Smoke, buttered popcorn, grilled mango and a squeeze of cit-rus on the finish add up to a wine that’s a bit clumsy in a soft, lovable way. Drink now. Old Bridge Cellars. —J.C. abv: 14% Price: $36

87 Miles From Nowhere 2012 Chardonnay (Margaret River). This is good solid Chardon-

nay at a very reasonable price. Pear, melon and citrus flavors mingle easily on the plump, midweight palate, then finish briskly, in a burst of refreshing citrus. Drink now. International Wines. —J.C. abv: 12.8% Price: $13

87 Miles From Nowhere 2011 Best Blocks Chardonnay (Margaret River). This is sol-

id, well-made Chardonnay. Hallmark notes of melon, pear, peach and citrus, a medium-weight palate and a long, crisp finish make this a wine that’s pleasant to come back to again and again. Drink now. International Vines, Inc. —J.C. abv: 13% Price: $18

87 Robert Oatley 2012 Chardonnay (Marga-ret River). This simple, fruity Chardonnay de-

livers ample pear, melon and peach notes. It’s plump, medium bodied and finishes pleasantly crisp and clean. Drink it over the next couple of years. Robert Oatley Vineyards Inc. —J.C. abv: 12.5% Price: $17

87 Robert Oatley 2011 Finisterre Chardon-nay (Margaret River). This is a soft, appeal-

ing Chardonnay layered with toasted marshmallow and superripe peach. It’s round in the mouth and lushly tex-tured, then turns citrusy—almost metallic—on the fin-ish. Robert Oatley Vineyards Inc. —J.C. abv: 13% Price: $30

87 Vinaceous 2011 Shakré Chardonnay (Margaret River). Only about 20% of this

Chardonnay sees oak, so what the wine delivers is main-ly fresh, primary fruit. Pineapple and passion fruit fla-vors dominate, finishing crisp and refreshing. Drink now. The Vintner Group. —J.C. abv: 13% Price: $17

86 West Cape Howe 2011 Unwooded Char-donnay (Western Australia). Like so many

unwooded Chardonnays, this is a medium-bodied, pleasantly fruit-forward wine that’s clean, simple and direct. Tangerine scents lead into flavors of mixed cit-rus and a crisp finish. Drink now. The Vintner Group. —J.C. abv: 13% Price: $17

WineMag.com | 45

RIESLING

92 Frankland Estate 2012 Isolation Ridge Vineyard Riesling (Frankland River). An

austere Riesling in the traditional Australian style, the 2012 Isolation Ridge Riesling appears destined to have a long life. Penetrating lime aromas lead into a palate that’s high strung and tight, but lined with mouthwater-ing fruit. An electric vibrancy of citrus and wet stones lingers on the finish. Drink now–2030. Quintessential Wines. Cellar Selection. —J.C. abv: 11.4% Price: $40

92 Frankland Estate 2011 Smith Cullam Riesling (Frankland River). This is a cask-

reared, slightly off-dry Riesling fermented with indig-enous yeasts that’s like no other Aussie Riesling. Some funky mushroomy, umami-like notes accent ripe apple and nectarine flavors, and then a squirt of lime follows on the bright, lengthy finish. Despite its relatively low alcohol, the wine is richly textured and possesses ample weight on the palate. Quintessential Wines. —J.C. abv: 10.3% Price: $65

91 Frankland Estate 2012 Netley Road Vine-yard Riesling (Frankland River). The

plumpest of Frankland Estate’s three single-vineyard bottlings in 2012, Netley Road offers subdued lime and tobacco aromas, then flavors of tangerine and pineap-ple. It’s softer than the others, but displays an attrac-tively chalky element to the textured finish. Drink now–2020. Quintessential Wines. —J.C. abv: 11% Price: $35

91 Frankland Estate 2012 Smith Cullam Riesling (Frankland River). The Smith Cul-

lam Riesling is made in a large French oak cask in an off-dry style. The 2012 is higher in alcohol than the 2011, yet also seems sweeter. White peach, petrol and kerosene notes mark the nose and palate, while the finish is simultaneously sweet and tart. Quintessential Wines. —J.C. abv: 11% Price: $65

91 Jim Barry 2012 The Lodge Hill Dry Ries-ling (Clare Valley). The Lodge Hill Dry is a

solid performer year-in and year-out. This vintage shows a hint of fuel oil alongside green apple, bergamot and clover notes. It’s a fine, medium-bodied dry Riesling that broadens out just a little on the long finish. Nego-ciants USA, Inc. Editors’ Choice. —J.C. abv: 12.8% Price: $20

91 Kilikanoon 2011 Mort’s Reserve Wa-tervale Riesling (Clare Valley). Lean and

tightly focused, this looks like one for the cellar—try it around 2018 if you can wait. Right now, it shows mod-est, restrained citrus fruit, hints of wet stone and a wick-edly long, sinewy finish. Old Bridge Cellars. Cellar Se-lection. —J.C. abv: 12.5% Price: $35

91 Petaluma 2012 Hanlin Hill Riesling (Clare Valley). This is floral on the nose, offering up

hints of talcum powder and restrained fruit. Yet the ap-

ple, cinnamon and lime flavors bust out on the palate before ending in a long, potent, citrusy finish. Drink now or hold up to 10 years. Distinguished Vineyards & Wine Partners. Editors’ Choice. —J.C. abv: 13% Price: $22

91 Robert Oatley 2012 Riesling (Great Southern). For full review see page 7. Edi-

tors’ Choice. abv: 12.5% Price: $17

90 Frankland Estate 2012 Poison Hill Vine-yard Riesling (Frankland River). The most

aromatically complex of the FE 2012 Rieslings, the Poi-son Hill offers beguiling scents of tangerine sherbet and Earl Grey tea. It’s almost too perfumy for its soft, me-dium-bodied structure and slightly dusty-textured fin-ish, but those floral elements are also its appeal. Drink now–2020+. Quintessential Wines. —J.C. abv: 10.5% Price: $35

90 Kilikanoon 2011 Mort’s Block Watervale Riesling (Clare Valley). This wine is already

showing hints of evolution in its aromas of kerosene, toast and honey. Developing flavors of apple and cit-rus marmalade suggest that this dry, medium-bodied Riesling should be at its best now and over the next 5–6 years. Old Bridge Cellars. —J.C. abv: 12.5% Price: $20

90 Plantagenet 2011 Riesling (Mount Bark-er). This impressive offering is crystal-clean

and direct, with green apple, lime and petrichor notes that typify Riesling. It’s medium bodied and fully dry, with a long, lime-riddled finish. Drink it over the next decade or so. Old Bridge Cellars. —J.C. abv: 12.5% Price: $20

89 Frankland Estate 2012 Rocky Gully Ries-ling (Frankland River). As a straightahead

Aussie Riesling for drinking young alongside raw oys-ters, this has few equals. Scents of petrichor and fresh flower-shop greenery mingle easily on the nose, while the crispness of the high-acid backbone resounds on the palate, ending on a talc-like note. Quintessential Wines. —J.C. abv: 11% Price: $25

89 Kilikanoon 2012 Killerman’s Run Ries-ling (Clare Valley). Marked by potent aromas

of green apple and lime sherbet, this is an intense, fla-vorful Riesling that just lacks that little bit of finesse. It’s dry and medium-bodied, with a slightly oily, slight-ly coarse texture. Drink it young. Old Bridge Cellars. —J.C. abv: 12.5% Price: $20

88 Leeuwin Estate 2011 Art Series Riesling (Margaret River). Leeuwin’s 2011 Riesling is

tightly coiled, lean, dry and crisp. Citrus sherbet aromas give way to reveal some modest apple flavors, backed by a long, steely finish. Should cellar well through at least 2023. Old Bridge Cellars. Cellar Selection. —J.C. abv: 12% Price: $22

SAUVIGNON BLANC

88 Plantagenet 2011 Omrah Sauvignon Blanc (Great Southern). This medium-

weight Sauvignon Blanc features admirable purity and focus. The lime and mixed citrus aromas and flavors are very clean and likable, showing decent length on the crisp, slightly chalky-textured finish. Drink now. Old Bridge Cellars. —J.C. abv: 13.4% Price: $15

88 Robert Oatley 2012 Sauvignon Blanc (Margaret River).This varietally labeled Sau-

vignon Blanc sourced from the southern portion of Margaret River is delightfully clean, crisp and refresh-ing. Nectarine, pineapple and citrus flavors mingle eas-ily on the medium-bodied palate. Robert Oatley Vine-yards Inc. —J.C. abv: 12.5% Price: $20

WHITE BLENDS

90 Cullen 2011 Cullen Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc-Semillon (Margaret River). Despite

its relatively low alcohol level, this comes across as rea-sonably mouthfilling and rich. Smoky notes from barrel fermentation emerge with air, accenting white nectar-ine and citrus fruit. It’s one of the few blends of this type to show the textural interest of a good white Graves. Old Bridge Cellars. Editors’ Choice. —J.C. abv: 11.5% Price: $35

89 Cape Mentelle 2012 Sauvignon Blanc-Semillon (Margaret River). This wine shows

an intriguing touch of flinty, fumé character as well as ample melon and fig fruit. It’s reasonably full bodied and textured for a wine of its ilk. Moët Hennessy USA. —J.C. abv: 12.5% Price: $16

88 Leeuwin Estate 2012 Siblings Sauvignon Blanc-Semillon (Margaret River). Com-

ponents of this wine see some time in oak, so there’s a slightly smoky cast to the white peach and pineapple aromas. It’s medium-bodied in the mouth and lushly textured, with a slightly warm, grapefruity finish. Drink now. Old Bridge Cellars. —J.C. abv: 13% Price: $20

86 Plantagenet 2011 Hazard Hill Sauvignon Blanc-Semillon (Western Australia). This

starts off with promisingly vibrant aromas of passion fruit and pink grapefruit, but seems a bit weighty and thickly textured in the mouth. The fruit remains the bold centerpiece, while the finish shows some alcoholic warmth. Old Bridge Cellars. —J.C. abv: 13% Price: $13

86 Skuttlebutt 2012 Sauvignon Blanc- Semillon (Margaret River). Although this

includes only 3% Viognier, it’s apparent from the musky hints of gingery spice on the nose. Ginger, nasturtium and melon flavors round out an expansive mouthfeel. It’s odd—especially in a lineup of more traditional Sem-


BUYINGGUIDESauvs—but not unpleasant. Drink now. Stella Bella Wines. —J.C. abv: 13.5% Price: $16

88 Moss Wood 2011 Ribbon Vale Vineyards Semillon-Sauvignon Blanc (Margaret

River). This blend shows decent weight and texture, along with elegant aromas and flavors of scorched citrus peel and grapefruit. It’s long and mouthwatering on the oak-free finish, making it a versatile food companion. The 2012 looks to be even better. Epicurean Wines. —J.C. abv: 13% Price: $27

SHIRAZ

96 Glaetzer 2010 Amon-Ra Unfiltered Shiraz (Barossa Valley). Despite this wine’s weight

and richness, it retains a superb sense of balance and structure. Firm acids and tannins support the blueberry fruit, while savory notes of mocha and roasted meat pro-vide added dimension. Give it a few years in the cellar and drink it from 2015–2025. Epicurean Wines. Cellar Selection. —J.C. abv: 15.1% Price: $110

94 Giaconda 2008 Warner Vineyard Shiraz (Victoria). With only 10 cases imported to the

U.S., one suspects that this terrific wine will largely be found in exclusive restaurants. If you can find a bottle at a reasonable markup, jump on it, for this is one of Victoria’s finest Shirazes. Hickory smoke, espresso and herbal notes accent raspberry fruit, whose brightness gives the wine extra lift and dimension. It’s creamy and lushly textured without ever seeming heavy, and boasts a long, silky finish that echoes with suggestions of cocoa powder and pulverized coffee beans. Drink now–2025. Negociants USA, Inc. Cellar Selection. —J.C. abv: 14.5% Price: $100

94 Torbreck 2010 The Struie Shiraz (Baros-sa). For full review see page 4. Editors’

Choice. abv: 15% Price: $50

93 Domaine Terlato & Chapoutier 2009 L-Block Shiraz (Pyrenees). From a special

section of Lieu Dit Malakoff, this is a wondrously per-fumed Shiraz, dazzling with wintergreen, anise and cracked pepper scents, all layered over blueberry fruit. It’s medium in body and silky in texture, with a long, mouth-watering finish that brings espresso to mind. Terlato Wines International. —J.C. abv: 13.5% Price: $60

93 Standish 2009 The Standish Single Vine-yard Shiraz (Barossa Valley). If this wine

doesn’t quite reach the heights of its 2005 or 2006 ver-sions, that’s O.K. It’s still terrific, offering complex notes of dried flowers, anise and black cherries, and the tex-ture is lush and liqueur-like in the mouth. The tannins are so soft and enveloping they’re hardly noticeable, suggesting this wine will likely be at its best during its first 10 years. Epicurean Wines. —J.C. abv: 14.5% Price: $135

92 D’Arenberg 2009 The Dead Arm Shiraz (McLaren Vale). For full review see page 5.

Cellar Selection. abv: 14.5% Price: $65

92 Frankland Estate 2009 Isolation Ridge Vineyard Shiraz (Frankland River). Meaty

and intense, this Shiraz is loaded with scents and fla-vors of cracked pepper, pungent coffee, roasted meat and ripe blackberries. It’s full bodied yet never seems heavy despite a sensation of warmth on the long, richly textured finish. Drink now–2020. Quintessential Wines. —J.C. abv: 14.3% Price: $40

92 Kaesler 2009 The Bogan Shiraz (Barossa Valley). This plump, creamy-textured Shiraz

may come across as slightly warm to some tasters, but it carries its alcohol reasonably well. Bright raspberry fruit, supple and lush, dominates the palate, highlighted by hints of dried spices. Drink it over the next several years. Epicurean Wines. —J.C. abv: 15% Price: $60

92 Luke Lambert 2010 Syrah (Yarra Valley). This wine reflects Yarra Valley’s relatively cool

climate in its gently herbal and spicy demeanor. Anise and pepper accent the blueberry fruit in this medium-bodied offering that was 60% whole-bunch fermented, all by indigenous yeasts. There’s a bit of creaminess to the texture, but little in the way of overt oak notes, and a long, silky finish. It’s a wine to shatter old stereotypes about Aussie Shiraz. Michael Skurnik Wines. —J.C. abv: 13.5% Price: $69

92 Peter Lehmann 2009 Stonewell Shiraz (Barossa). For full review see page 6.

abv: 14.5% Price: $95

92 Peter Lehmann 2006 Stonewell Shiraz (Barossa). Even at seven years of age, the

2006 Stonewell is a rich, thickly textured Shiraz. Dark fruit flavors combine easily with tobacco and cedar shav-ings, adding some Port-like spice notes on the long fin-ish. Drink now–2020. Hess Family Wine Estates. —J.C. abv: 14.5% Price: $95

92 Schwarz Wine Company 2010 Nitschke Block Shiraz (Barossa Valley). From the

Bethany subregion, this is a medium- to full-bodied, creamy-textured Shiraz. Cracked pepper accents rasp-berry and cocoa notes, and while some minty-eucalyp-tus notes are apparent, they’re never dominant. Long and lush on the finish, this seductive wine will proba-bly offer its best between now and 2020. Kysela Père et Fils. —J.C. abv: 14.5% Price: $50

92 Thorn Clarke 2010 William Randell Shi-raz (Barossa). This luxury cuvée from Thorne

Clarke combines ripe berries with cinnamon and clove, then adds dollops of vanilla and chocolate, yet never seems overly sweet. Likewise, it’s full bodied and rich, yet never goes over the top, maintaining a sense of

freshness and structure. Drink now–2020, and possibly beyond. Kysela Père et Fils. —J.C. abv: 14.5% Price: $50

91 Domaine Terlato & Chapoutier 2009 Lieu Dit Malakoff Shiraz (Pyrenees). The Terla-

to-Chapoutier wines offer a refreshing, medium-bodied style of Australian Shiraz. Anise and mint feature prom-inently in this vintage, plus notes of blackberry, espresso and spice. Drink now–2016. Terlato Wines Internation-al. Editors’ Choice. —J.C. abv: 14% Price: $40

91 Mitolo 2009 Savitar Shiraz (McLaren Vale). This dark-fruited, full-bodied Shiraz

isn’t for the faint of heart. Espresso, dark chocolate, roast meat and plum notes come together in a creamy-textured wine that finishes with a tart, hard edge of acid-ity and a dusting of cocoa powder-like tannins. Vintus LLC. —J.C. abv: 14.9% Price: $72

91 Plantagenet 2009 Shiraz (Mount Barker). Darker, sterner and less accessible than Planta-

genet’s Omrah bottling, the winery’s flagship Shiraz of-fers substantial dark fruit flavors reminiscent of espres-so, plum and cracked pepper. The tannins are firm, suggesting at least 2–3 years of cellaring. (The 2007 is drinking well now.) Old Bridge Cellars. Cellar Selec-tion. —J.C. abv: 13.5% Price: $29

91 West Cape Howe 2009 Two Steps Shiraz (Western Australia). Sourced from Mount

Barker, this is a full-bodied, supple example of WA Shi-raz. Concentrated plummy fruit is marked by hints of menthol and peppery spice, then ends in a soft wash of dusty tannins and mouthwatering acids. Drink now–2020+. The Vintner Group. Editors’ Choice. —J.C. abv: 14.5% Price: $17

91 Yarra Yering 2009 Dry Red Wine No. 2 Shiraz-Viognier (Yarra Valley). Vintage af-

ter vintage, this wine impresses for its complexity and balance, and the 2009 won’t disappoint on those counts. It may not be the biggest, baddest Dry Red No. 2, but it features blueberry fruit and espresso and black olive shadings, a lovely supple texture and a softly lingering finish. Drink it over the next few years. Old Bridge Cel-lars. —J.C. abv: 13.5% Price: $95

91 Yarra Yering 2009 Underhill Shiraz (Yarra Valley). Savory, meaty notes marry nicely with

plummy fruit and clove spice in this wonderfully supple example of Yarra Valley Shiraz. With extended aeration, this wine develops lots of smoky, ashy notes—a possible side effect of nearby bush fires—so I’d opt for drink-ing it over the next couple of years. Old Bridge Cellars. —J.C. abv: 13.5% Price: $95

90 D’Arenberg 2009 The Wild Pixie Shiraz-Roussanne (McLaren Vale). This is sur-

prisingly tough and tannic for a wine that incorporates 8% of a white variety. But those mouth-drying tannins

WineMag.com | 47

give shape to the cassis, cranberry and black olive notes. Take a chance by cellaring this rather austere wine for five years or so and see how it develops. Old Bridge Cel-lars. Cellar Selection. —J.C. abv: 14.5% Price: $29

90 Hope Estate 2010 The Ripper Shiraz (Geo graphe). For full review see page 8.

abv: 14% Price: $20

90 Mitolo 2009 G.A.M. Shiraz (McLaren Vale). A full-bodied, very ripe rendering of Shi-

raz, Mitolo’s 2009 G.A.M. offers hints of raisined fruit to go with its notes of coffee, smoke, roasted meat and baking spices. The creamy midpalate and velvety finish make it drinkable already, although it should hold up well for another few years. Vintus LLC. —J.C. abv: 14.9% Price: $42

90 Plantagenet 2010 Omrah Shiraz (West-ern Australia). An easy-drinking introduction

to Shiraz from Western Australia’s Great Southern re-gion, the 2010 Omrah offers gentle cherry and cedar notes accented by hints of chocolate and roasted meat. It’s medium to full bodied, with a round, supple mouth-feel that ends in a wash of softly dusty tannins. Old Bridge Cellars. Editors’ Choice. —J.C. abv: 14% Price: $20

89 D’Arenberg 2009 The Laughing Magpie Shiraz-Viognier (McLaren Vale). Filled

with scents and flavors of black earth, cedar and dark fruit, this impressively full-bodied wine demands to be served with something similarly big and meaty. Despite its size, it’s open-knit and accessible, with just enough coarse tannins on the finish to cut the richness of beef steaks or braises. Old Bridge Cellars. —J.C. abv: 14.5% Price: $29

89 Leeuwin Estate 2009 Siblings Shiraz (Margaret River). This medium-bodied Shi-

raz is almost Saint Joseph-like in its charming cherry and cracked pepper flavors. It’s not overly rich or com-plex, just an easy-drinking wine that should offer plenty of appeal over the next few years. Old Bridge Cellars. —J.C. abv: 13% Price: $20

89 Miles From Nowhere 2011 Best Blocks Shiraz (Margaret River). Miles from No-

where partner Franklin Tate’s family helped launch Evans & Tate to Margaret River stardom, but now this new venture is poised to take off. This full-bodied yet crisp Shiraz features vibrant, dark berry and cherry fruit framed by subtle vanilla and toast shadings. It’s solid from start to finish. The regular Shiraz bottling is a Best Buy. International Vines, Inc. —J.C. abv: 14% Price: $18

89 Plantagenet 2010 Hazard Hill Shiraz (Western Australia). This medium-bodied

Shiraz is supple, immediately drinkable and complex—what more could one want for under $15? Find plummy fruit, meaty elements, cracked pepper and hints of mo-

cha and a long, savory finish here. Old Bridge Cellars. Best Buy. —J.C. abv: 14.5% Price: $13

88 Evans & Tate 2010 Metricup Road Shiraz (Margaret River). This affordable bottling

offers intensely concentrated fruit nicely accented by hints of cedar and mocha. The tart, mixed-berry flavors are crisp and mouth-watering, finished off by a dusting of cocoa powder on the finish. Deutsch Family Wine & Spirits. Editors’ Choice. —J.C. abv: 14.5% Price: $15

88 Greenstone 2008 Shiraz (Heathcote). This medium-weight Shiraz features subtle campfire

notes from start to finish, underscoring its cherry and mint aromas and flavors. Fresh and friendly, it features a soft dusting of tannins on the finish. Drink it now and over the next few years. Old Bridge Cellars. —J.C. abv: 13.5% Price: $40

88 Leeuwin Estate 2010 Art Series Shiraz (Margaret River). This wine’s bright berry

notes make it very accessible—the raspberry perfume is virtually irresistible. Those berries are capably framed by cedary elements, but on the palate, the structure of the wine is taut, wiry and crisp. Drink it over the next few years for its fruity appeal. Old Bridge Cellars. —J.C. abv: 14% Price: $35

88 Miles From Nowhere 2011 Shiraz (Mar-garet River). For full review see page 11. Best

Buy. abv: 14.5% Price: $13

88 Taltarni 2009 Shiraz (Pyrenees). This mouth-filling Shiraz features plenty of weight

and texture and bold, plummy flavors tinged with mo-cha and black olive. It’ll go great with a charred steak off the grill. Goelet Wine Estates. —J.C. abv: 14% Price: $21

88 Wakefield Estate 2006 St. Andrews Shi-raz (Clare Valley). This full-bodied Shiraz is

bulky and a bit loosely knit. The overtly smoky notes persist on the palate, vying with maple syrup and dark fruit flavors. It’s a big, flavorful wine that needs time to come together, so consume over the next few years. American Wine Distributors. —J.C. abv: 14.5% Price: $50

88 Yalumba 2009 Hand Picked Shiraz-Viog-nier (Eden Valley). This is an attractive, me-

dium-bodied wine. Tart berry fruit is framed by subtle oak shadings, and the tannins are supple, making it ap-proachable now. Negociants USA, Inc. —J.C. abv: 14.5% Price: $30

88 West Cape Howe 2009 Shiraz (Western Australia). This Shiraz offers subtle peppery

notes, ample cedary oak and cherry fruit. Tobacco and mint shadings give the finish a slightly medicinal edge, but this is a supple, charming Shiraz to drink over the next few years. The Vintner Group. —J.C. abv: 14% Price: $17

87 Evans & Tate 2011 Split River Shiraz (Western Australia). Surprisingly full bodied

and beefy for a $10 wine, this boasts scents of asphalt, scorched coffee and plummy fruit that lightens to cher-ry with air. Drink it over the next several years. Deutsch Family Wine & Spirits. Best Buy. —J.C. abv: 14.5% Price: $10

87 Frankland Estate 2011 Rocky Gully Shi-raz (Frankland River). This rather chunky

wine boasts some delicious raspberry notes, but it also comes across as slightly clumsy, like an American foot-ball player taking a turn at a society ball. It’s full flavored and its dusty tannins will work well with grilled steaks. Drink now–2018. Quintessential Wines. —J.C. abv: 14.5% Price: $25

87 Mitolo 2009 Reiver Shiraz (Barossa Val-ley). Mint marks the nose of this otherwise

darkly attractive wine. Notes of mocha and plum nice-ly set up the wine, as do the supple tannins, but then there’s a jarring edge of prickly acidity that cuts across the palate and disrupts the flow. There are some nice parts here that don’t quite come together. Vintus LLC. —J.C. abv: 14.9% Price: $53

CABERNET SAUVIGNON

93 Kilikanoon 2009 Blocks Road Cabernet Sauvignon (Clare Valley). For full review

see page 4. Editors’ Choice. abv: 14% Price: $30

92 D’Arenberg 2009 The Coppermine Road Cabernet Sauvignon (McLaren Vale). For

full review see page 5. Cellar Selection. abv: 14.5% Price: $65

92 Moss Wood 2008 Moss Wood Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon (Margaret River).

The Moss Wood Cabernets are typically full-bodied and rather lush, and the 2008 is no exception. The tannins are fully ripe, giving the impression of great suppleness in the mouth, while the flavors blend plummy, fruity el-ements with meaty, savory ones. The finish is long and harmonious, suggesting ample longevity, although the wine is approachable now. Epicurean Wines. —J.C. abv: 14.5% Price: $101

92 Penfolds 2009 Bin 407 Cabernet Sauvi-gnon (South Australia). Prices on all of Pen-

folds’s bin range have surged, but at least in this case, the quality has kept pace. The 2009 Bin 407 is a wor-thy successor to the super 2008, offering more of the same cassis and blackberry fruit tinged with chocolate and mint. It’s full bodied and plush without being soft, ending on firm, dusty tannins that still manage to leave a mouthwatering sensation behind. Past Bin 407s have easily gone 10–15 years from vintage, and there’s no reason to suspect otherwise of this one. Treasury Wine Estates. Cellar Selection. —J.C. abv: 14.5% Price: $48


BUYINGGUIDE

92 Vasse Felix 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon (Margaret River). Vasse Felix’s impressively

consistent track record with Cabernet continues with the 2009, a mouth-filling, supple wine that still re-tains a modicum of structure. Bold cassis fruit is bal-anced by earthy, meaty complexity and finishes long and mouthwatering. Drinkable now, but it should hold eas-ily through 2020, and possibly longer. Negociants USA, Inc. Editors’ Choice. —J.C. abv: 14.5% Price: $38


way). For full review see page 7. Editors’ Choice. abv: 14.5% Price: $21

91 Jacob’s Creek 2008 St. Hugo Cabernet Sauvignon (Coonawarra). Yes, the same Ja-

cob’s Creek that turns out vast quantities of drink-me-now wines at sub-$10 price points also makes this age-worthy Cabernet from Coonawarra fruit. The 2008 is a harmonious wine, blending notes of cassis, cigar box and vanilla into a richly textured, fairly tannic whole. Give it 4–5 years in the cellar. Pernod Ricard. Cellar Selection. —J.C. abv: 14.5% Price: $35

91 Ringbolt 2010 21 Barriques Cabernet Sauvignon (Margaret River). Yalumba’s

western outpost has been steadily improving the quality of its wines, and the 2010 21 Barriques represents its top wine to date. The dark fruit flavors are accented by ample amounts of charred oak, but the fruit ultimately wins out. The result is a very drinkable, silky textured wine with a long, toasty finish. Drink now–2020. Nego-ciants USA, Inc. Editors’ Choice. —J.C. abv: 13% Price: $40

91 Schild Estate 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon (Barossa). Despite being full bodied, this is

a very drinkable example of Barossa Cabernet. It’s not very tannic, but instead offers mouthwatering supple-ness. Cherry and red currant fruit notes are under-scored by mocha shadings. The Australia-New Zealand Wine Connection. Editors’ Choice. —J.C. abv: 14.5% Price: $22

90 Angove 2008 Vineyard Select Cabernet Sauvignon (Coonawarra). There’s an at-

tractive minty note to this wine that some may find too prominent, but the underlying cassis fruit is strong and the wine’s structure is firm. The tannins are even a bit chewy at this stage, so either give it a year or two to mel-low or pair it with some rare beef or lamb. Trinchero Family Estates. —J.C. abv: 13.5% Price: $20

90 Cape Mentelle 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon (Margaret River). This is a cool, restrained

style of Cabernet, which nonetheless manages to pull in ripe flavors of cassis and chocolate. The tannins are svelte and modestly textured, while the flavors turn slightly tart on the cedary finish. Already approachable, but it should drink well through at least 2020. Moët Hennessy USA. —J.C. abv: 13.5% Price: $70

90 Mitolo 2009 Serpico Cabernet Sauvignon (McLaren Vale). The grapes for this unique-

ly styled Cabernet are partially dried prior to pressing, but there’s no overt sense of raisination to this wine. In-stead, it delivers crisp red fruit, hints of dried herbs and crushed tobacco. The ample tannins are a bit grainy in texture but should go nicely with rare beef or lamb. Vin-tus LLC. —J.C. abv: 15% Price: $72

90 Robert Oatley 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon (Margaret River). For full review see page 9.

Editors’ Choice. abv: 14% Price: $20

90 Robert Oatley 2009 Finisterre Cabernet Sauvignon (Margaret River). There’s a lot

to like in this effort: ample dark fruit, complex notions of tea leaves and dried grasses, and a richly textured, long finish. The wine is medium bodied and not very tannic, making it easy to sip repeatedly. Drink it over the next 8–10 years. Robert Oatley Vineyards Inc. —J.C. abv: 14% Price: $30

90 West Cape Howe 2009 Book Ends Caber-net Sauvignon (Western Australia). This is

a solid value in the world of Cabernet. Textbook notes of cassis and mint lead the way, framed by supple tannins and dressed up with hints of graham crackers and black tea. This is medium to full in weight, with a mouthwa-tering, velvety finish that belies its price point. Drink now–2020+. The Vintner Group. Editors’ Choice. —J.C. abv: 14% Price: $21

90 Yalumba 2010 Menzies The Cigar Caber-net Sauvignon (Coonawarra). This is a me-

dium-weight, supple Cabernet with bright acids that’s seemingly designed for early drinking. Perfumed notes of mint, vanilla, brown sugar and cassis lead the way, followed by similar flavors and ample oak. Negociants USA, Inc. Editors’ Choice. —J.C. abv: 14.2% Price: $25


way). A solidly built, rather chunky Cabernet, the 2009 Pillar Box Reserve delivers plummy fruit framed by va-nilla and tobacco notes. The tannins are a bit coarsely textured on the finish, but leave behind an appetizingly mouthwatering sensation. Drink now–2020. Quintes-sential Wines. —J.C. abv: 14.5% Price: $21

87 Miles From Nowhere 2010 Best Blocks Cabernet Sauvignon (Margaret River).

This falls firmly into the category British writers used to call “luncheon claret,” being medium-bodied and easy to drink, with polite flavors of dried herbs, just-ripe cherries and tobacco leaves. Drink it over the next few years. International Vines, Inc. —J.C. abv: 13.9% Price: $18

86 Evans & Tate 2011 Split River Cabernet Sauvignon (Western Australia). This bar-

gain-priced offering boasts cool, restrained Cabernet

aromas of cassis and mint, with just a touch of tomato creeping in. It’s fairly weighty, with bold flavors of Ri-bena on the palate and soft tannins on the finish. Drink now. Deutsch Family Wine & Spirits. Best Buy. —J.C. abv: 14.5% Price: $10

RED BLENDS

95 Glaetzer 2010 Anaperenna Shiraz- Cabernet Sauvignon (Barossa Valley).

These blends are traditional in Australia—they’re just rarely this good. The 26% Cabernet gives great back-bone and a sense of restraint to the wine, which might otherwise seem overdone or sloppy. Instead, there’s a blend of blueberry and cassis fruit, Port-like spices and a long, dusty finish. Drink 2015–2025, possibly beyond. Epicurean Wines. Cellar Selection. —J.C. abv: 15.1% Price: $80

93 Vasse Felix 2009 Heytesbury (Margaret River). A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Petit

Verdot and Malbec, the 2009 Heytesbury is a medium- to full-bodied wine with a taut line of acidity that ac-centuates its slightly drying tannins. Cassis and red cur-rant notes predominate, but there’s ample complexity in the form of mint, cedar, leather and dusty earth. Drink 2018–2025. Negociants USA, Inc. —J.C. abv: 14.5% Price: $74

92 Silver Wings 2006 Vincenzo Old Vines Mourvèdre-Shiraz (Central Victoria). An

unusual blend—60% Mourvèdre and 40% Shiraz—from an unlikely location, this is also an excellent value. It’s medium in weight, with a creamy, lush texture and classic dark fruit notes tinged with cigar box and Christ-mas spices. It’s a fine example of the gems still awaiting discovery in the vastness of Australia. Drink now–2025. Marquee Selections. Editors’ Choice. —J.C. abv: 13.5% Price: $30

91 Cape Mentelle 2010 Wilyabrup (Marga-ret River). Named for a Margaret River subre-

gion, Cape Mentelle’s Wilyabrup is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc. It’s structured and restrained on the palate, easily blending cherry, ce-dar, leather and earth notes in a truly claret-styled wine whose dry finish picks up hints of black tea. Drink now–2020. Moët Hennessy USA. —J.C. abv: 13.5% Price: $55

91 Cullen 2010 Mangan Malbec-Petit Ver-dot-Merlot (Margaret River). Cullen’s 2010

Mangan captures the great potential of the vintage. It’s a youthful, juicy mouthful of berry fruit accented with cedar and vanilla oak, but where the wine really shines is its texture, which is richly silky, with a fine dusty qual-ity reminiscent of cocoa powder or ground cinnamon. Drink it now and over the next several years. Old Bridge Cellars. —J.C. abv: 13% Price: $46

91 Frankland Estate 2009 Olmo’s Reward (Frankland River). For full review see page

6. Cellar Selection. abv: 14% Price: $55

WineMag.com | 49

90 Henry’s Drive Vignerons 2008 Parson’s Flat Shiraz-Cabernet Sauvignon (Padtha-

way). The blend in this torrid vintage is 68% Shiraz, 32% Cabernet, which somehow manages to avoid any sense of baked or raisined fruit. There’s a slightly me-dicinal, eucalyptus note, common in wines from this big gumtree region, but also red currant and cherry fruit, a creamy, supple texture and a long finish dusted with cocoa powder. Drink now–2020. Quintessential Wines. —J.C. abv: 14.5% Price: $42

90 Moss Wood 2010 Amy’s Red (Margaret River). Compact and sturdy, this robust blend

of Cabernet Sauvignon, Petit Verdot, Malbec and Mer-lot is relatively simple, yet satisfying. Bold cassis fruit joins with earthy, tobacco notes and hints of vanilla to finish with dry intensity and promising length. Drink 2015–2020. Epicurean Wines. —J.C. abv: 14% Price: $34

90 Stella Bella 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon-Merlot (Margaret River). This elegant, finely

balanced blend of 73% Cabernet Sauvignon and 27% Merlot displays the supple, silky tannins for which Mar-garet River is justly famous. Gentle cigar box aromas and flavors that suggest cherry and mocha round out the wine’s ample charms. Drink it over the next few years. Stella Bella Wines. —J.C. abv: 14% Price: $27

89 Cullen 2010 Red (Margaret River). Es-sentially, this is Cullen’s third red wine--a blend

of 48% Malbec, 36% Petit Verdot and 16% Merlot. It’s dark and cedary, full bodied yet restrained, with ample cassis flavors and a lick of vanilla. Drink now–2020. Old Bridge Cellars. —J.C. abv: 13% Price: $25

89 Plantagenet 2010 Omrah Cabernet Mer-lot (Western Australia). This is a sleek, re-

fined middleweight, throwing soft yet punchy notes of cassis, cherry, dried herb and cedar. The vanilla is a bit prominent on the long finish, but at this price, who’s complaining? Drink now–2022. Old Bridge Cellars. —J.C. abv: 13.5% Price: $20

89 Skuttlebutt 2009 Shiraz-Cabernet Sauvi-gnon (Margaret River). Skuttlebutt is a sec-

ond tier in Stella Bella’s range that can represent excel-lent value. This blend shows some of Cabernet’s pun-gent leafiness, but also plenty of Shiraz’s fruity volume to balance things out. At four years of age, the tannins are nicely supple and silky, with the wine’s various com-ponents in elegant harmony. It’s ready to drink now. Stella Bella Wines. Editors’ Choice. —J.C. abv: 14% Price: $16

87 Miles From Nowhere 2011 Cabernet Sau-vignon-Merlot (Margaret River). Margaret

River wines usually carry much higher tariffs than this, which makes it a notable find. The wine is a bit herbal, but without being overly green. The resulting hints of tomato and tobacco add interest to the cherry and mo-cha shadings of this silky-textured wine. Drink it over

the next year or so. International Vines, Inc. Editors’ Choice. —J.C. abv: 14.7% Price: $13

TEMPRANILLO

88 West Cape Howe 2011 Tempranillo (Western Australia). Full of young, exuber-

ant blueberry and raspberry fruit and backed by some sturdy tannins, this would be an ideal choice with burg-ers or pizza. The bold berry flavors finish dusty yet mouthwatering at the same time. Drink it over the next several years. The Vintner Group. Editors’ Choice. —J.C. abv: 14% Price: $15

ISRAEL

CHARDONNAY

89 Tzuba 2011 Chardonnay (Judean Hills). Lively and balanced, this shows a wonderful in-

terplay between the rich fruit flavors of grilled pineap-ple and lightly baked red apple and the oaky tones of sweet spice, toasted cedar and peach pit nuttiness. The medium-weight mouthfeel is filling, but the medium acidity keeps the palate fresh and the finish bright. Ko-sher. Royal Wine Corporation. —L.B. abv: 13% Price: $24

88 Binyamina 2012 Reserve Unoaked Char-donnay (Judean Hills). Here’s a fresh and

fruit-forward selection, brimming with bright aromas and flavors of white peach, clementine, yellow florals and a hint of fresh hay. Balanced and refreshing, the medium acidity provides good lift to the ripe fruit fla-vors on the palate and keeps the finish light and clean. Drink up. Kosher. Royal Wine Corporation. —L.B. abv: 13% Price: $19

87 Pelter 2011 Unwooded Chardonnay (Gal-ilee). Attractive aromas of red apple, yellow

peach and lemon custard abound on the nose of this Chardonnay. The flavors seem riper on the palate than the nose suggests, with notes of mealy melon and baked apple that remain through the medium-length finish. Drink now. T. Elenteny Imports. —L.B. abv: 12.7% Price: $28

86 Domaine du Castel 2011 C Blanc du Cas-tel Chardonnay (Judean Hills). Typically a

stand-out Israeli white, the 2011 vintage of this wine seems a bit flabby and overdone. It still offers nice yet rich tones of orange creamsicle, buttered popcorn and custard, but the oak-derived notes of toasted hazelnut, vanilla cream and toasted sweet spice are a tad over-whelming, and the acidity doesn’t provide enough lift to keep it all balanced. Kosher. Royal Wine Corpora-tion. —L.B. abv: 13.5% Price: $50

OTHER WHITE WINES

89 Carmel 2011 Single Vineyard Kayoumi White Riesling (Galilee). Fragrant and flo-

ral, this Riesling shines with lively notes of honeydew melon, peach flesh, clementine oil and a hint of petrol. Light weight and well balanced, with brisk acidity that lends a juicy, mouthwatering nature to the close. Ko-sher. Royal Wine Corporation. —L.B. abv: 12.5% Price: $26

88 Flam 2012 Unoaked Blanc (Judean Hills). A blend of 88% Sauvignon Blanc and

45% Chardonnay, this is bright and expressive, with for-ward aromas of white peach, yellow florals, fresh grass and sweet-orange citrus. Those notes carry through to the lively palate, with prickly acidity that keeps the fin-ish crisp and clean. Kosher. Royal Wine Corporation. —L.B. abv: 13% Price: $32

87 Shvo 2010 Chenin Blanc (Upper Galilee). Here’s a refreshing and attractive Chenin Blanc

that offers clean notes of ripe pear, green apple and honewdew melon alongside accents of cinnamon and white florals. The palate is light weight and vibrant, with lifting acidity that adds zest to the medium-length fin-ish. T. Elenteny Imports. —L.B. abv: 14% Price: $35

86 Pelter 2011 Sauvignon Blanc (Galilee). This is a fresh and easy selection, with low-in-

tensity aromas and flavors of tart gooseberry, lemon-lime citrus and soft grass. The mouthfeel is light and breezy, and the finish is clean and brisk. Drink now. T. Elenteny Imports. —L.B. abv: 11.5% Price: $28

82 Binyamina 2011 Reserve Sauvignon Blanc (Upper Galilee). Mushy peach, mealy

pear and soft melon aromas flood the bouquet, and are accented by a hint of honeycomb. A touch of citrus fla-vor unfolds on the round, flabby palate, followed by a short finish. Drink up. Kosher. Royal Wine Corporation. —L.B. abv: 12% Price: $14

ROSÉ

87 Flam 2012 Rosé (Judean Hills). This 100% Cabernet Franc rosé is light and vibrant, of-

fering delicate scents of white cherry, raspberry, ruby grapefruit and sweet pea florals. The palate is brisk and refreshing, with bright acidity that complements the watermelon rind and strawberry hull flavors. Drink now. Kosher. Royal Wine Corporation. —L.B. abv: 12.5% Price: $32

CABERNET SAUVIGNON

88 Margalit 2010 Kadita Single Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon (Galilee). Here’s a ro-

bust and jammy selection that offers assertive notes of


BUYINGGUIDEblack plum, blackberry and cassis on the nose and in the mouth. The texture is like crushed velvet, with addi-tional nuances of licorice, fruitcake spice and light char, adding depth to the palate and length to the finish. T. Elenteny Imports. —L.B. abv: 14% Price: $75

88 Pelter 2009 T-Selection Cabernet Sauvi-gnon (Galilee). Oak-derived aromas of va-

nilla, sweet wood and toast are forward in the bouquet and mouth of this wine, but they’re supported by a solid core of lush black berry, cassis and plum notes. The pal-ate is round and mouthfilling, with a creamy texture. T. Elenteny Imports. —L.B. abv: 15% Price: $65

86 Binyamina 2010 Yogev Cabernet Sauvi-gnon (Galilee). Yogev, meaning “tiller of the

soil,” is a friendly and easy-pleasing wine, with direct notes of cherry skins, fresh cassis and black currant leaf. Medium weight, with moderate acidity, fine tannins and a clean, fruit-driven finish. Drink now. Kosher. Royal Wine Corporation. —L.B. abv: 13% Price: $15

84 Gamla 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon (Gali-lee). Here’s a plush and straightforward wine

that would pair well with braised brisket or lamb. Fla-vors of berry compote and all-fruit preserves are up-front, while a milk-chocolate accent unfolds on the me-dium-length finish. Soft tannins and a silky texture make this a wine that’s easy to enjoy now. Kosher. Royal Wine Corporation. —L.B. abv: 13.5% Price: $15

RED BLENDS

92 Barkan 2010 Reichan Assemblage (Galil). For full review see page 5. Editors’

Choice. abv: 13.5% Price: $35

91 1848 Winery 2009 Special Reserve (Gal-ilee). This is a dense and heady blend, made

from 63% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot and 17% Petite Sirah. Black-currant leaf, black plum and boy-senberry notes lead the nose and mouth, with a light dusting of cocoa, baking spice and sweet oak adding depth to the palate. Medium weight, with a texture like crushed velvet and a bold, flavorful finish. Drink now–2018. Kosher. Royal Wine Corporation. —L.B. abv: 13.8% Price: $60

91 Barkan 2010 Eitan Assemblage (Judean Hills). For full review see page 6. Cellar Se-

lection.abv: 13.5% Price: $35

90 Domaine du Castel 2010 Grand Vin (Ju-dean Hills). Castel’s Grand Vin is a consistent

Bordeaux-style blend that shows good depth and con-centration, as well as the promise to age gracefully. For-ward oaky notes of vanilla, toast and sweet spice domi-nate the nose, but the black-fruit core keeps it ground-ed. Flavors of cassis and black plum flesh out the palate,

and a peppery note lingers long on the finish. Kosher. Royal Wine Corporation. —L.B. abv: 15% Price: $70

90 Pelter 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon-Shiraz (Galilee). This is a balanced and complex fif-

ty-fifty blend, with herbal accents of licorice root, cof-fee bean and foliage that mingle harmoniously with ripe fruit notes of blackberry, wild raspberry and cherry. Me-dium weight and lushly textured, but not overdone, with a long finish that delivers light hints of mocha and pep-per. T. Elenteny Imports. —L.B. abv: 14.9% Price: $39

89 1848 Winery 2009 Reserve Cabernet-Merlot (Galilee). This Cabernet-dominant

blend is drinking young, with firm, gripping tannins and a tight structure. There’s plenty of black fruit flavors to flesh out the palate, along with complex nuances of lico-rice root, creme de cassis, cigar-box spice and a touch of bitter chocolate. Give it a few years in the cellar for the tannins to mellow a bit. Kosher. Royal Wine Corpora-tion. —L.B. abv: 13.9% Price: $40

89 Segal’s 2012 Fusion (Galilee). This blend of 60% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Franc and 20%

Cabernet Sauvignon is bright and balanced, with fruity notes of black plum and cherry dusted by accents of tobacco, licorice and lightly charred wood. Medium weight and enjoyable, the tannins are mouthcoating but fine and the finish deliciously spicy. Kosher. Royal Wine Corporation. —L.B. abv: 12.5% Price: $15

89 Yatir 2009 Red Wine (Judean Hills). This blend of 44% Shiraz, 34% Merlot and 22% Cab-

ernet Sauvignon boasts dense notes of black berry, cher-ry and raspberry on the nose and mouth, with soft hints of game, char and roasted cocoa nib. The mouthfeel is lush but lifted, with medium acidity and structured tannins that lend grip to the finish. Kosher. Royal Wine Corporation. —L.B. abv: 14% Price: $44

88 Barkan 2010 Tzafit Assemblage (Judean Hills). An interesting blend of 53% Marselan,

20% Caledoc, 15% Pinotage and 12% Carignan, this starts off a bit rubbery, but that quickly blows off to re-veal attractive scents of blackberry and plum flesh. The medium-weight palate has a texture like crushed velvet and is loaded with ripe black-fruit flavors, while accents of cocoa nib and tobacco unfold on the finish. Kosher. Royal Wine Corporation. —L.B. abv: 14% Price: $35

88 Binyamina 2011 Yogev Cabernet Sauvi-gnon-Shiraz (Samson). This fifty-fifty blend

is rich and ripe, with forward aromas and flavors of red plum, blueberry and blackberry. Secondary accents of licorice root, black pepper and light toast add depth and interest. Silky and accessible, this is a surprisingly ap-proachable selection that’s ready to drink now. Kosher. Royal Wine Corporation. —L.B. abv: 13.5% Price: $15

88 Domaine du Castel 2010 Petit Castel (Ju-dean Hills). This Bordeaux-style blend of 50%

Cabernet Sauvignon, 45% Merlot and 5% Petit Ver-dot is shy and demure now, requiring a decant or time to air before opening up to reveal notes of red-plum flesh, muddled raspberry and soft sweet spice. Medium weight, with soft tannins and an herbal finish. Kosher. Royal Wine Corporation. —L.B. abv: 15% Price: $50

88 Tzuba 2009 Metzuda (Judean Hills). This Bordeaux-style blend of 70% Cabernet Sauvi-

gnon, 15% Merlot and 15% Cabernet Franc is surpris-ingly open and accessible now, with forward aromas and flavors of ripe brambly berry, forest, fresh tobacco leaf and a touch of espresso bean. The fine tannins lend an approachable texture to the wine, with a rich, jammy black-fruit flavor lingering on the medium-length finish. Kosher. Royal Wine Corporation. —L.B. abv: 14% Price: $35

87 Recanati 2010 Reserve Petite Syrah-Zin-fandel (Galilee). This is a jammy and plush

selection that shows great intensity of flavor and weight. Dark notes of black plum, blackberry and boysenberry flood the nose and mouth, with secondary tones of toast and chocolate. Thick and mouthcoating on the palate, this ends with a woody, chocolate-kissed finish. Kosher. Palm Bay International. —L.B. abv: 13.5% Price: $26

86 Binyamina 2010 Yogev (Galilee). Made from 80% Cabernet Sauvignon and 20% Petit

Verdot, this is a ripe and lush wine that boasts big, jam-my black-fruit aromas and flavors. Touches of licorice and sage add depth to the palate, while a soft toasty ac-cent lingers on the medium-length finish. Kosher. Royal Wine Corporation. —L.B. abv: 13% Price: $15

86 Domaine Netofa 2011 Tinto (Galilee). Pretty floral aromas of violet, carnation and talc

mingle with notes of raspberry and blackberry on the nose of this Tempranillo-Touriga Nacional blend. It’s plush and round on the palate, with mouthfilling ripe fruit flavors and spicy accents of toasted oak and vanilla bean. Kosher. Royal Wine Corporation. —L.B. abv: 13.3% Price: $28

86 Shvo 2010 Red (Upper Galilee). This is a balanced and accessible wine, with fruity notes

of red plum and currant alongside hints of dried savory herbs and foliage. Medium weight, with fine tannins and a lingering finish that boasts a soft woody accent. T. Elenteny Imports. —L.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $36

OTHER RED WINES

88 Margalit 2010 Binyamina Single Vineyard Cabernet Franc (Shomron). Here’s a bright

and attractive wine with aromas and flavors of red cher-ry, plum and strawberry, accented by earthy hints of foli-age, forest floor and woody spice. Medium weight, with

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dusty, lingering tannins that persist through the finish. T. Elenteny Imports. —L.B. abv: 14% Price: $75

88 Tulip Winery 2010 Reserve Syrah (Gali-lee). This wine starts off herbal and earthy,

with forward aromas of pepper, tree bark and cherry tree. The palate is rich and velvety, with ripe notes of raspberry, blackberry and plum. Dusty tannins provide a nice texture, while the medium-length finish boasts a spicy cocoa flavor. Kosher. Royal Wine Corporation. —L.B. abv: 15.5% Price: $42

85 Tzuba 2010 Pinot Noir (Judean Hills). A light brick color in the glass, this is an accessi-

ble selection that offers easy aromas and flavors of red cherry, forest berry and a hint of rhubarb. Silky tannins dance on the palate, and a mocha flavor lingers softly on the finish. Kosher. Royal Wine Corporation. —L.B. abv: 14% Price: $28

AUSTRIA

GRÜNER VELTLINER

95 Schloss Gobelsburg 2011 Renner Erste Lage Reserve Grüner Veltliner (Kamptal).

So ripe and full in the mouth, this is a beautiful wine. It has great layers of spice, yellow fruits, and refreshing acidity and concentration. Dense and multidimension-al, it’s both a mineral and fruit driven wine. This needs good aging over 4–6 years. Michael Skurnik Wines. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA

94 Markus Huber 2011 Berg Erste Lage Re-serve Grüner Veltliner (Traisental). A high

altitude vineyard yields a cool feeling wine that’s very crisp and fragrant. Concentrated and full, it has great acidity, fruitiness and spice all blending together. This is a dense wine with singular intensity that needs time, so give it 3–5 years. Screwcap. Circo Vino. Cellar Se-lection. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $56

93 F X Pichler 2012 Urgestein Terrassen Grüner Veltliner Smaragd (Wachau). In-

tense acidity marks the opening character of this wine. This is followed by equally intensely ripe pears and ap-ples over pepperiness. Full bodied in style, this wine is still finding its feet and integrating. With its richness and great flavors it should be aged for 2–4 years. Screw-cap. Weygandt-Metzler. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA

93 Hermann Moser 2011 Hannah Gebling Erste Lage Reserve Grüner Veltliner

(Kremstal). This wine is powerful and rich with dried fruit and intense spiciness. The palate has immense weight, concentration, and complexity, and shows su-perbly ripe lychee flavor. The youthful structure that needs aging, so give this wine 4–5 years. Screwcap. Boutique Wine Collection. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $45

93 Hirsch 2011 Kammerner Lamm Erste Lage Reserve Grüner Veltliner (Kamp-

tal). This is a great wine, with spicy notes accenting the rich pear and lime flavors. It is rounded and full in the mouth, with a degree of concentration that never threatens to edge out the fresh acidity and the touch of pepper at the end. For aging over 2–4 years. Screwcap. Michael Skurnik Wines. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $NA

93 Markus Huber 2011 Alte Setzen Erste Lage Reserve Grüner Veltliner (Traisen-

tal). Pepper, spice and a rich texture are all elements of this concentrated wine. It has considerable depth to it, with hints of mineral and yeast, and peach and lemon flavors cutting through a dense palate. Give this impres-sive wine at least two years to develop. Screwcap. Circo Vino. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $34

92 Schloss Gobelsburg 2012 Steinsetz Re-serve Grüner Veltliner (Kamptal). This

wine is one of a series of single vineyard wines from this Cistercian estate. The wine exhibits the pepper side of Grüner, full and flavorsome, along with spiced pear laced with citrus acidity. The wine is rich aging potential over the next 3–5 years. Michael Skurnik Wines. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $NA

92 Stadt Krems 2011 Wachtberg Erste Lage Reserve Grüner Veltliner (Kremstal). Rich

and full, this is a powerful wine with concentrated ap-ples, pears and spice in a harmonious whole. The tex-ture is dense, with beautiful layers of fruit and acidi-ty, and a pure final tension. Age for at least four years. Glass stopper. Winebow. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $40

91 Anton Bauer 2011 Grande Reserve Grüner Veltliner (Wagram-Donauland).

Highlighted with peppery spice, this is a dense and rich wine, but smoothly textured with a layer of tangy acid-ity. It is concentrated on the palate, but marked by a light prickle on the tongue, and citrus flavors shooting through at the end. Prescott Wines. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA

91 Domäne Wachau 2012 Terrassen Grüner Veltliner Smaragd (Wachau). A rich wine

that shows ripe intensity as well as forward fruitiness. It has a ripe, creamy texture, and hints of spice and vanilla along with a steely acidity. Full in the mouth, it’s packed with pepper as well as fruit. This is a dense wine that could age another year. Screwcap. Vin Divino. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $30

91 Eichinger 2012 Wechselberg Grüner Veltliner (Kamptal). This is a finely balanced,

ripe and fruity wine. The texture is smooth, with ripe green and white fruits that are laced with intense acid-ity. The wine is bone dry but peppery spice gives it a richer feel. It’s worth aging this wine at least 1–2 years. Screwcap. Weygandt-Metzler. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $NA

91 Hager Matthias 2011 Urgestein Grüner Veltliner (Niederösterreich). This is a seri-

ous, organically grown wine, that’s big, ripe and spicy with a great creamy texture. Very full in the mouth, it boasts rich yellow fruits laced with a chalky, mineral character. Acidity plays a pivotal role in keeping all this freshness in balance. Drink after 2–3 years. Screwcap. Acid Inc Selections. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $22

91 Hermann Moser 2012 Gebling Grüner Veltliner (Kremstal). Spicy, exotic and dry,

this wine is full of ripe lychee and mango fruits. Round-ed, full and deliciously rich, it’s perfect for sipping or for accompanying rich fish sauces. A wine for aging over 2–3 years. Screwcap. Boutique Wine Collection. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $20

91 Hirsch 2012 Kammerner Heiligenstein Grüner Veltliner (Kamptal). With its refresh-

ing green and white fruits at the start and crisp acidity at the end, this wine seems deceptively simpe. In be-tween, however, the wine has complex layers of spice, lime juice and minerality that promise some good ag-ing over three years. Screwcap. Michael Skurnik Wines. —R.V. abv: 12% Price: $NA

91 Josef Jamek 2012 Ried Achleiten Grüner Veltliner Federspiel (Wachau). This is a

smooth, intense wine that’s very complex in its balance between acidity, green fruits and minerality. It’s full of delicious fruit flavors, but shows a fine tension as well. Pepper just hints at the end. Screwcap. Carlo Huber Selections. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $NA

91 Kurt Angerer 2012 Kies Grüner Veltliner (Kamptal). This is a rich and full-bodied wine,

that’s spiced with yellow fruits, a touch of vanilla and a rounded texture. Its ripe, dense and full of concentrat-ed fruits. Needs at least a year to age. Screwcap. Wey-gandt-Metzler. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $NA

91 Markus Huber 2012 Obere Steigen Grüner Veltliner (Traisental). Markus Hu-

ber manages to get great ripe, full flavors from his Grüners. That’s the main character of this wine, from a single vineyard, that offers rich creamed pear and nutmeg flavors along with a shot of acidity to contrast. Screwcap. Circo Vino. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $20

91 R&A Pfaffl 2011 Hundsleiten Reserve Grüner Veltliner (Weinviertel). This is a typ-

ically fragrant and fresh Grüner but with great class. It’s very ripe and fruity, with acidity that offers a refresh-ing line of citrus. The Hundsleiten Vineyard’s minerality comes through strongly here with a steely texture that finishes the wine with dryness. It’s an impressive wine for aging over the next 2–4 years. Screwcap. Palm Bay International. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $30


BUYINGGUIDE

91 Schloss Gobelsburg 2012 Grüner Velt-liner (Kamptal). This may be a straightfor-

ward Grüner, but there’s surprising complexity as well. There’s a steely, mineral texture that’s almost chewy, as well as a fruitier element. It’s a dry, densely structured wine that could age for another year or two. Screwcap. Michael Skurnik Wines. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $NA

91 Steininger 2012 Grand Grü Reserve Grüner Veltliner (Kamptal). A clever play on

words, this powerful wine is rich, complex, and a shade off dry from its ripe fruit profile. It has intense juici-ness with loads of apple and pear flavor and just a touch of pepper. Full-bodied and worth aging for 2–4 years. Screwcap. Select Wines. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $30

90 Eichinger 2012 Hasel Grüner Veltliner (Kamptal). This wine is dense and fruity, yet

still a fresh and lively wine. The contrast between rich yellow fruits and crisp acidity gives the wine a good ten-sion, offering a fine texture and nervous edge. Great to drink now, but worth aging a year. Screwcap. Weygandt-Metzler. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $NA

90 F X Pichler 2012 Loibner Frauenweingar-ten Grüner Veltliner Federspiel (Wachau).

Ripe and fruity, this is a fine expression of the easy, open style demanded by the Federspiel designation in the Wachau. Green fruit dominates along with a lively acid-ity that keeps the palate crisp. The wine is totally drink-able now, although it should age well over the next few years. Screwcap. Weygandt-Metzler. —R.V. abv: 12% Price: $NA

90 F X Pichler 2012 Loibner Klostersatz Grüner Veltliner Federspiel (Wachau).

This is a crisp, but also rich style of Federspiel. It is full of ripe pear and apple flavor as well as a fine pinch of pepper. Acidity creeps in the background to balance this ready-to-drink wine. Screwcap. Weygandt-Metzler. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $NA

90 Graf Hardegg 2010 Steinbügel Grüner Veltliner (Niederösterreich). This is a seri-

ous wine, despite the ripe fruitiness on its surface. It is full of peach and mango flavors, but structured by a cool, mineral feel. Tangy acidity and tight texture adds tension. It still needs to age 2–4 years. Screwcap. Fred-erick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $NA

90 Hermann Moser 2012 Karmeliterberg Erste Lage Grüner Veltliner (Kremstal).

From a vineyard owned by Carmelite nuns, this is a de-licious, refreshing wine. It wears its fruitiness right up front, supported with a little twist of pepper and a pure line of acidity. It’s ready to drink, although it will age for 2–3 years and more. Screwcap. Boutique Wine Collec-tion. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $15

90 Schwarzböck 2012 Sätzen-Fürstenberg Grüner Veltliner (Niederösterreich). This

is a generous wine with richness. It has a smooth tex-ture, and a palate full of ripe green fruit and pear fla-vors. There is also a tang of lemon as well as a more steely edge at the end. Screwcap. Michael Skurnik Wines. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA

90 Steininger 2012 Kittmansberg Reserve Grüner Veltliner (Kamptal). This is a tight,

mineral driven wine that’s very textured and almost stark in its character. It offers steeliness, brisk acidity, and a palate packed with citrus fruits. Give this age-worthy wine at least five years. Screwcap. Select Wines. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $34

89 Hager Matthias 2011 Seeberg Grüner Veltliner (Niederösterreich). Mango and

apricot flavors come through strongly with this wine. It is rich, full and already maturing. Black currant flavors give the acidity the wine needs, shooting through the more exotic fruits. At the end, it is open, generous and ripe. Acid Inc Selections. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $32

89 Hermann Moser 2012 Per Due Grüner Veltliner (Kremstal). Per Due, as in a wine

for sharing between two people, is a fruity, fragrant, re-freshing wine. It has great acidity, lively green apple fla-vors and just a touch of spice. Very refreshing. Screw-cap. Boutique Wine Collection. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 12% Price: $12

89 Schwarzböck 2009 Philipps Reserve Grüner Veltliner (Weinviertel). Named after

Rudolf and Anita Schwarzböck’s son, this is a big—al-most too big—wine. It is full of Grüner’s pepper char-acter but less of the fruit. So rich, ripe and dense, it of-fers a full mouth style that is likely to age quickly now. Screwcap. Michael Skurnik Wines. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $NA

89 Thierry-Weber 2012 Kremser Sandgrube Grüner Veltliner (Kremstal). The Sandgru-

be vineyard is one of the most familiar names in Krems and produces warm, fruity wines like this. The wine has weight, a dense texture and green-fruit acidity, laced with pepper. It’s very young and should be kept for 2–3 years. Screwcap. Savio Soares Selections. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $18

88 Glatzer 2012 Dornenvogel Grüner Velt-liner (Carnuntum). This is a ripe wine that’s

full and creamy in texture. It shows quite a different as-pect of Grüner compared to the crisper, more mineral wines further north in Austria. This is rich and smooth with pear flavors and clean lines to shape the aftertaste. Screwcap. Michael Skurnik Wines. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $NA

88 Graf Hardegg 2012 Grüner Veltliner (Nie-derösterreich). Intensely peppery, this wine

is aromatic with notes of black currants. Fruit flavors are marked with lemongrass spiciness and tense acid-

ity. The wine is light in body, with a refreshing charac-ter that’s going to be just right as an aperitif. Screwcap. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $NA

88 Markus Huber 2012 Terrassen Grüner Veltliner (Traisental). This is a rounded,

rich and soft wine with a creamy texture and ripe pear and lime flavors contrasting with lively acidity. It has a smooth character, but with a bite of spice, lemon zest and minerality. Drink now. Screwcap. Circo Vino. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $16

88 Stadt Krems 2012 Grüner Veltliner (Krem-stal). This is a ripe, open and fruity wine, that’s

still very fresh and crisp. It has fragrant apple flavor, soft texture and a bright and juicy core that radiates a round-ed character with finishing acidity. Screwcap. Winebow. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $28

88 Stadt Krems 2012 Weinzierlberg Grüner Veltliner (Kremstal). This is a stony, miner-

al-led wine with white fruit flavors overlain by tactile texture. There is concentration from spice, rich fruits and final refreshing acidity. A lively wine that is devel-oping fast and will be ready to drink this year. Screwcap. Winebow. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $28

88 Steininger 2012 Loisiumweingarten Re-serve Grüner Veltliner (Kamptal). The Loi-

sium is the wine museum in Langenlois in which the Steininger family is partner. This wines comes from the vineyard next to the museum. It’s brightly fruity, a deli-cately layered wine, full of citrus and apricot fruit fla-vors, lively and ready to drink. Screwcap. Select Wines. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $24

88 Steininger 2011 Kittmansberg Reserve Grüner Veltliner (Kamptal). On the rich

side, this is a full-bodied wine with pure green and white fruits. Acidity cuts through this richer texture, a lively fruity wine that is also full of ripe fruits. At the end, a more steely, mineral character emerges. Screw-cap. Select Wines. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $39

88 Thierry-Weber 2012 Animo Grüner Velt-liner (Kremstal). A creamy-textured wine

with pear as well as apple flavors. The texture is soft, rounded, warm. At the same time, acidity cuts right through to give a crisp element as well as bringing out a touch of pepper. Screwcap. Savio Soares Selections. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $15

87 Anton Bauer 2012 Spiegel Grüner Velt-liner (Wagram-Donauland). A light, re-

freshingly textured wine, very fruity and bright. Citrus and green plums cut through the tangy texture giving a clean, crisp character. The wine is immediately drink-able. Screwcap. Prescott Wines. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA

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87 Domäne Wachau 2012 Terrassen Grüner Veltliner Federspiel (Wachau). Fruity wine,

light, elegant with a touch of minerality, it shows a fine balance of green fruits and its spice. The wine is all about freshness, crispness, a touch of minerality to give texture. At the end, the fragrant acidity shines. Screw-cap. Vin Divino. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $14

87 Glatzer 2012 Grüner Veltliner (Carnun-tum). Very crisp, collected wine, packed with

citrus flavors and lightly lined with a more mineral char-acter. The wine is bright, really fruity, refreshing and de-licious now. Screwcap. Michael Skurnik Wines. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $NA

87 Hager Matthias 2012 Mollandser Berg Grüner Veltliner (Kamptal). Light and

fruity, a bright and breezy wine, very fresh and refresh-ing. Shafts of green fruit shine through along with crisp acidity. The wine has spice and just a hint of a prickle on the tongue. Screwcap. Acid Inc Selections. —R.V. abv: 12% Price: $18

87 Hermann Moser 2012 Green Eyes Grüner Veltliner (Niederösterreich). This is an at-

tractive and fragrant wine, bursting with fresh pear and apple flavors. It’s laced with the hallmark Grüner touch of pepper and finished with refreshing acidity. For drinking this year. Screwcap. Boutique Wine Col-lection. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 12% Price: $11

87 Wieninger 2012 Vienna Hills Grüner Velt-liner (Vienna). Earthy aromas lead to a crisp

while full-bodied wine. There’s a whiff of sulphur float-ing around that takes a while to blow off. Beyond that, the fruit is spicy, crisp and green. Screwcap. Winebow. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $22

86 Graf Hardegg 2012 Veltlinsky Grüner Veltliner (Niederösterreich). Veltlinsky is

among the very first of the fruity Grüners that swept through our wine shops. It is as crisp and green as the grape should be, with apples and pepper laced together in a bright, light harmony. Screwcap. Frederick Wild-man & Sons, Ltd. —R.V. abv: 12% Price: $NA

86 Markus Huber 2012 Hugo Grüner Velt-liner (Niederösterreich). One of the classic,

simple, attractive Grüners to come out of Austria, this brings forward lively green fruits, a touch of spice and crisp acidity. It’s totally ready to drink. Screwcap. Circo Vino. —R.V. abv: 12% Price: $13

86 Michlits 2012 Biokult Grüner Veltlin-er (Niederösterreich). This is a refreshing

Grüner, its apple acidity and spice combining to give a wine that is both refreshing and also tight in texture, with something to bite on. Drink soon. Screwcap. Natu-ral Merchants LLC. —R.V. abv: 11.5% Price: $13

86 Pratsch 2012 Grüner Veltliner (Weinvier-tel). A very crisp wine, with a fine mineral tex-

ture, this pulls in the direction of green fruits, citrus and a tangy, zesty character. Brisk and fragrant, it needs an-other few months to be at its best. Screwcap. Winesell-ers Ltd. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $14

86 R&A Pfaffl 2011 Austrian Pepper Grüner Veltliner (Niederösterreich). Pepper’s the

name, and pepper’s a character of this wine. There is such a light touch with the pepper pot though, allowing for apple flavors and a light, dancing texture. Drink now. Screwcap. Palm Bay International. —R.V. abv: 11.5% Price: $14

86 Steininger 2012 Grüner Veltliner (Kamp-tal). A simple, fruity wine, this offers lime and

green-apple flavors giving complete freshness. It’s a light, aromatic wine with a touch of pepper. Drink now. Screwcap. Select Wines. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $17

86 Thierry-Weber 2012 Grüner Veltliner (Austria). One of the popular liter bottles of

Grüner Veltliner, this is bright, fruity and laced with red apples. It has lively acidity and a light texture, making it very drinkable and bright. Savio Soares Selections. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $13/1 L

85 Pratsch 2012 Grüner Veltliner (Niederös-terreich). Spicy and fruity, this is a refreshing,

open, green and white fruited wine. Lively and crisp, it has good acidity and just a touch of pepper to add an-other dimension. Screwcap. Winesellers Ltd. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $14/1 L

RIESLING

95 F X Pichler 2012 Loibner Oberhauser Riesling Smaragd (Wachau). This is an im-

pressively rich, ripe wine that maintains great swathes of fresh pear and apple flavors. It is dense on the pal-ate, with a powerful mineral and steel expression to pair with the opulent texture and rounded aftertaste. Should develop well over at least five years. Weygandt-Metzler. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $NA

94 Hirsch 2011 Zöbing Heiligenstein Erste Lage Reserve Riesling (Kamptal). An im-

mensely young, this is a very concentrated wine burst-ing with spice and aromatic white fruits. There is a sense of unleashed power as well as great fruitiness that is still developing. It’s a great wine with a great future over 5–7 years and more. Screwcap. Michael Skurnik Wines. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $NA

93 Hirsch 2011 Zöbing Gaisberg Erste Lage Reserve Riesling (Kamptal). A superbly

rich wine, packed with white fruits, this is very aromatic while also keeping a clear line of acidity and freshness.

It has power, depth of flavor and minerality from the terroir. A wine for aging over six years and more. Screw-cap. Michael Skurnik Wines. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $NA

93 Markus Huber 2011 Berg Erste Lage Re-serve Riesling (Traisental). This is a great

Riesling, that’s full, fragrant and very rich. Its weight doesn’t take away from its fruitiness, lively acidity and crisp edge. It’s dense, concentrated and packed with white fruits. A wine like this needs to age, so give it 4–5 years. Screwcap. Circo Vino. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $56

93 Stadt Krems 2011 Grillenparz Erste Lage Reserve Riesling (Kremstal). This is a rich

Riesling, that’s ripe with fruits, round in texture and touched with spice. The acidity is very present, giving a steely edge to the wine. With its fruitiness, it is very drinkable now, but will certainly be a more complex and complete in 3–4 years. Glass stopper. Winebow. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $40

92 Domäne Wachau 2012 Terrassen Ries-ling Smaragd (Wachau). Yellow fruits lead

off this sophisticated wine. With its creamy texture, overlaid by a more steely texture, it’s a wine that has ag-ing potential as well as present fruitiness for early drink-ing. So age for four years or give in to the freshness now. Screwcap. Vin Divino. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $30

92 Josef Jamek 2012 Ried Klaus Riesling Federspiel (Wachau). Equally fruity as per-

fumed, this is a bright, intensely crisp wine. It is packed with apples, green plums and tight lemon juice. Very textured—chewy almost—and still very young., give this fine wine at least four years to mature. Carlo Huber Selections. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $NA

92 Markus Huber 2012 Engelberg Riesling (Traisental). An intensely crisp, aromatic wine.

this boasts great acidity along with bright fruitiness and a tight, mineral texture. The wine is crisp, fruity, packed with lemon and gooseberry acidity. A bright wine with a good depth of flavor. Screwcap. Circo Vino. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $23

92 Schloss Gobelsburg 2012 Riesling (Kamptal). A fragrant, perfumed and aromatic

wine, this is classic Riesling. It has white flower aromas and lightly spicy fruits with a touch of lychee as well as pineapple. At the end, a more serious, mineral texture takes over to promise some development over the next 1–3 years. Screwcap. Michael Skurnik Wines. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $NA

92 Stadt Krems 2011 Kögl Erste Lage Re-serve Riesling (Kremstal). This is a rich,

creamy wine that has warmth and ripe pear and currant flavors. Spiced lemon cuts through the dense structure to give a soft yet crisp and clean wine that reveals great acidity at the end. Glass stopper. Winebow. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $40


BUYINGGUIDE

91 F X Pichler 2012 Loibner Burgstall Ries-ling Federspiel (Wachau). A beautifully per-

fumed wine, this is tight, nervy and steely in character while preserving great fruitiness. Focused and fragrant with white fruits, this is a delicious wine. Not yet ready to drink so keep for at least 6–12 months. Screwcap. Weygandt-Metzler. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $NA

91 Graf Hardegg 2010 Steinbügel Riesling (Niederösterreich). A beautifully perfumed

wine, this is very mineral and steely with currant flavors, a splash of lime and complex acidity. Behind this, there is a more ripe character, with richness and a warmer feel. Great acidity and youthfulness promise several years’ aging. Screwcap. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $NA

91 Hager Matthias 2011 Alte Reben Ries-ling (Niederösterreich). Sourced from 50

year-old vines, this is a concentrated wine with acidity a defining partner to the white fruit and citrus layers. A touch of sweetness gives it richness and softens the in-tense acidity. Worth aging for four years and more. Cel-lar Selection. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $NA

91 Schwarzböck 2011 Katharinas Reserve Riesling (Niederösterreich). This is a finely

perfumed wine, well balanced while rich. It has a great mineral texture to go with its delicate white fruit and or-chard blossom aromas. With its fruitiness and its subtle structure, the wine could age over at least five years. Screwcap. Michael Skurnik Wines. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA

91 Steininger 2012 Steinhaus Reserve Ries-ling (Kamptal). Aromatic wild flowers lead to

a rich, exotically fruity wine, full of peaches and apri-cots, fresh acidity and great, lively acidity. This is a deli-ciously fruity wine from the start. It’s the more textured backdrop that promises some aging. Screwcap. Select Wines. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $34

90 Hirsch 2012 Zöbing Riesling (Kamptal). Crisp, clean, mineral wine, with hints of a more

aromatic character in the background, this is packed with apple and lemon flavors. A straight line of delicious acidity cuts like a knife through the wine. For aging over 3–5 years. Screwcap. Michael Skurnik Wines. —R.V. abv: 12% Price: $NA

90 Markus Huber 2012 Terrassen Riesling (Traisental). An intensely fruity wine with re-

freshing swathes of bright white fruits, this is fragrant and textured with lively acidity cutting through the creaminess. Very pure tasting with great depths. Age for 3–4 years. Screwcap. Circo Vino. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $16

90 Schloss Gobelsburg 2010 Tradition Re-serve Riesling (Kamptal). A smooth and just

off-dry wine, this is spicy and aromatic. It has a line of steeliness that cuts right through the attractive fruiti-

ness. There is also a sense of structure, with a depth of flavor as well as more attractive surface fruits. Michael Skurnik Wines. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $NA

90 Steininger 2011 Novemberlese Reserve Riesling (Kamptal). This is a concentrated,

fruity wine that is also striated with minerality, giving a firm, almost chewy texture. White fruits are combined with more exotic fruits, and cut with lemon acidity. It’s a wine for aging over at least four years. Screwcap. Select Wines. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $34

89 Graf Hardegg 2012 Vom Schloss Ries-ling (Niederösterreich). From vineyards

around the Hardegg castle, this is a ripe, soft Riesling that has both delicious acidity and a round character. Lemon, pineapple and white fruits come together in a wine that only just hints at a steeliness. Screwcap. Fred-erick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $NA

89 Hermann Moser 2012 Gebling Riesling (Kremstal). Intensely crisp and mineral, this

wine puts forth bright citrus flavors for its refreshing fruitiness. It is a light, lively and immediately drinkable wine, with brisk texture and acidity. Worth aging, but very drinkable now. Screwcap. Boutique Wine Collec-tion. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $20

89 Stadt Krems 2012 Steinterrassen Ries-ling (Kremstal). Fresh, fragrant and aromatic,

this is a clean, clear, limpid wine. Its white fruit flavors are refreshingly crisp, offering delicious acidity. Finish-es with a lively citrus aftertaste. Screwcap. Winebow. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $28

89 Wieninger 2012 Vienna Hills Riesling (Vi-enna). This wine comes from the Nussberg

vineyards close to the Vienna woods. It is aromatic, spicy and richly textured. The wine has warmth as well as crisp acidity and green-fruit flavors. Give it a year to mature. Screwcap. Winebow. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $22

88 Anton Bauer 2011 Alte Reben Riesling (Wagram-Donauland). With some sweet-

ness, this is a fruity, juicy wine that’s tasting very young at this stage. It’s fragrant with a light touch of white currants and spice and a dominant presence of acidity. Prescott Wines. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

88 Domäne Wachau 2012 Terrassen Ries-ling Federspiel (Wachau). With aromas of

the apricots that ripen so well in the Wachau, this is a fragrant, perfumed, intensely fruity wine. It is stylish with white fruits, a mineral texture and bright acidity at the end. It’s worth aging a year or two. Screwcap. Vin Divino. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $16

88 Pratsch 2011 Lange Ried Riesling (Nie-derösterreich). Soft and fragrant, this is a

warm feeling Riesling. Of course, it has fine, steely acid-ity but it also has a riper fruity character, white fruits, hedgerow flavors and an edgy feel. Ready to drink. Screwcap. Winesellers Ltd. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $20

87 Steininger 2012 Riesling (Kamptal). A very fragrant wine, this is attractively fruity with

its white fruits and lemon flavors. It’s textured and tight, with a nervous tension in its structure. Ready to drink in six months. Screwcap. Select Wines. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $20

SAUVIGNON BLANC

93 Manfred Tement 2012 Grassnitzberg Er-ste Lage Sauvignon Blanc (Südoststeier-

mark). The single vineyard Grassnitzberg offers some warmth to the naturally herbaceous Sauvignon Blanc. There’s crisp acidity to be sure, but this serious, complex wine is rounded with tropical fruits and a rich texture. Very fresh now, it needs 2–4 years to age. Glass stopper. Weygandt-Metzler. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $NA

92 Manfred Tement 2010 Zieregg Grosse Lage Sauvignon Blanc (Südoststeier-

mark). Now approaching maturity, the wine is show-ing its tropical fruit flavors and aromas. Ripe and full in the mouth with a rich, but lively acidity, it’s an im-pressive expression of Sauvignon Blanc. Glass stopper. Weygandt-Metzler. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $NA

90 Kollwentz 2011 Steinmühle Sauvignon Blanc (Burgenland). This is a warm style of

Sauvignon Blanc that brings out ripe peach and apri-cot flavors, balanced by a crisp acidity. It has weight, and shows the warmth of the climate and richness of the soil. VOS Selections. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $50

89 Lackner Tinnacher 2012 Steirische Klas-sik Sauvignon Blanc (Südsteiermark).

An intensely herbal wine, this is very green and crisp. It brings out citrus, fresh apple and lemongrass spici-ness to yield a wine that is concentrated and likely to age for 2–4 years. Glass stopper. Domaine Select Wine Estates. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $24

88 Fuchs 2012 Sauvignon Blanc (Steier-mark). Sauvignon Blanc, Styria’s (Steiermark)

signature white grape shows richly and herbaceously here. It has a grassy character with notes of nettle, green fruit, citrus. Spice, acidity and a ripe feel give it weight. Screwcap. Vignaioli. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $14

88 Manfred Tement 2012 Steirische Klas-sik Sauvignon Blanc (Südoststeiermark).

This is an intensely herbaceous wine that’s very crisp, green and mineral driven. It’s a textured wine that’s

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tangy, nervy and full of fruit. Delicious to drink now for its freshness, but it will age for 2–3 years. Glass stopper. Weygandt-Metzler. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $NA

87 Strauss 2012 Classic Sauvignon Blanc (Steiermark). A very Styrian Sauvignon Blanc,

this is herbaceous while lined with tropical fruits. It has great acidity, green fruits, and a sense of texture and minerality. Ready to drink. Screwcap. Select Wines. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $20

86 Glatzer 2011 Sauvignon Blanc (Carnun-tum). More fruity than herbaceous, this is a

green and citrus fruit flavored wine, crisp and bright. It has a fine, tight streak of acidity that also hints of more tropical flavors. Ready to drink. Screwcap. Michael Skurnik Wines. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $NA

85 Markus Huber 2012 Sauvignon Blanc (Niederösterreich). This is a slightly spicy

wine that’s rounded and quite rich in style. It leans to-wards a tropical character although textured and still quite youthful. Give this attractive, ripe wine another six months or so to develop. Screwcap. Circo Vino. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $NA

84 Strauss 2010 Gamlitzberg Reserve Sau-vignon Blanc (Steiermark). Oak aging gives

this wine weight and richness, but detracts from the nat-ural herbaceous fruitiness. The palate is spicy and pep-pery. Screwcap. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $NA

83 Hager Matthias 2011 Sauvignon Blanc (Niederösterreich). A curiously earthy wine

with ripe fruits but also a sense of bitterness. Notes of gooseberries and undergrowth finish with an off-dry character at the end. Screwcap. Acid Inc Selections. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $22

GELBER MUSKATELLER

89 Lackner Tinnacher 2011 Gelber Mus-kateller (Südsteiermark). The perfume de-

velops slowly before blossoming into an enticingly ex-otic, bergamot-flavored wine. Acidity keeps it fresh but it does end up with a slighty confectionery finish. Glass stopper. Domaine Select Wine Estates. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $38

88 Hermann Moser 2012 Gelber Muskateller (Niederösterreich). Austria’s answer to the

Traminer, Gelber Musckateller offers the same spici-ness with the addition of a streak of acidity. Together, they yield a refreshing, dry wine with liveliness that leaves a bright, fruity aftertaste. Screwcap. Boutique Wine Collection. —R.V. abv: 12% Price: $NA

88 Strauss 2012 Classic Gelber Muskateller (Steiermark). Perfumed and spicy, this wine is

very Muscat in character. It’s very heady in its aromas, with lychee and tropical fruits, and a delicate, while ripe, profile. The aftertaste continues the theme of exot-ic fruits and soft acidity. Screwcap. Select Wines. —R.V. abv: 12% Price: $20

87 Domäne Wachau 2012 Terrassen Gelber Muskateller (Wachau). Grape and spice aro-

mas give this wine a distinctive heady perfume. A rare style to find in the Wachau, it brings a fine balance be-tween fruit and perfume with the textured nature of Wachau wines. Ready to drink, or age for a year. Screw-cap. Vin Divino. —R.V. abv: 12% Price: $17

WEISSBURGUNDER

91 Prieler 2011 Pinot Blanc (Leithaberg). This is a very rich wine that’s smooth and con-

centrated. The slopes of Leithaberg on the west shore of Lake Neusiedl have great sun exposure, making this wine full in style. It has minerality as well, giving a steely edge to this impressively ripe wine with its pear and apricot fruits and spice notes. Michael Skurnik Wines. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $NA

90 Anton Bauer 2011 Rosenberg Weissbur-gunder (Wagram-Donauland). Rounded

and rich, this wine exhibits layers of creamy, ripe pears and apples with a touch of spice. It’s a soft. full-bod-ied, concentrated wine, with acidity buried in the ripe texture. It is a wine that could well age for a couple of years. Prescott Wines. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA

88 Glatzer 2012 Weissburgunder (Carnun-tum). This is a smooth and rich wine, soft and

fruity and typical of the warm, gentle side of Pinot Blanc. It does have some concentration with apple and crisp pear flavors. It is ready to drink although it could age well, easily for another year. Screwcap. Michael Skurnik Wines. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $NA

88 Manfred Tement 2012 Steirische Klas-sik Weissburgunder (Südoststeiermark).

This aromatic and fruity wine is ripe and full of peach and pear flavor. The wine balances nicely between crisp fruitiness and a more rounded, full-bodied texture. Clean, fresh, soft and ready to drink. Glass stopper. Weygandt-Metzler. —R.V. abv: 12% Price: $NA

88 Prieler 2012 Seeberg Pinot Blanc (Bur-genland). A ripe, creamy wine with a fragrant

apple core, this is a full bodied, forceful blast of fruit and soft acidity. Finishes rich with hints of spice. Screw-cap. Michael Skurnik Wines. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA

85 Markus Huber 2012 Hochschopf Weiss-burgunder (Niederösterreich). A rounded,

ripe wine with a soft, smooth texture, this is full bodied and layered with peach and pear fruit and a balancing

acidity. Attractive and worth aging another few months. Screwcap. Circo Vino. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $NA

84 Strauss 2012 Classic Pinot Blanc (Stei-ermark). This is a light, bright wine with fla-

vors of green fruits and citrus. There is a hint of yeasti-ness. Overall, a cool feeling wine that is ready to drink. Screwcap. Select Wines. —R.V. abv: 12% Price: $20

CHARDONNAY

94 Kollwentz 2011 Leithagebirge Chardon-nay (Burgenland). A very young wine, this is

still quite reticent at this stage. It is structured and aus-tere with intense minerality and acidity. Complex on the palate, it’s laced with wood, green fruits and a slowly evolving richness. This wine will need many years to de-velop fully, so give it at least six. VOS Selections. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $38

93 Kollwentz 2010 Gloria Chardonnay (Bur-genland). This is a rich, honeyed, tropical-fruit

flavored wine. Opulent and gorgeously textured, wood aging adds spice to the cake, bringing out the ripeness of the fruit and the smoothness of the wine. Acidity and a touch of minerality keep this flamboyant wine in check. VOS Selections. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $80

92 Hannes Reeh 2012 Unplugged Chardon-nay (Burgenland). This is a rich Chardon-

nay that’s very creamy and smooth. Wood aging shows strongly, adding ripeness and spice to the yellow fruits. Richly structured and concentrated, this wine will need at least least three years to develop. Screwcap. Acid Inc Selections. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $18

86 Strauss 2012 Classic Chardonnay (Stei-ermark). Smooth, soft creamed fruits and fresh

acidity combine easily here in this purely fruity wine. Lightly aromatic, it’s a buoyant wine that’s ready to drink now. Screwcap. Select Wines. —R.V. abv: 12% Price: $19

WHITE BLENDS

93 Wieninger 2012 Nussberg Alte Reben Gemischter Satz (Vienna). Old vines from

the Bisamberg Vineyard have produced a rich, beauti-fully ripe wine. Its white and yellow fruit flavors give richness, concentration and a great spicy character. With its density, structure and intense acidity, it’s like-ly to age well over 3–5 years. Glass stopper. Winebow. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $40

91 Wieninger 2012 Gemischter Satz (Vien-na). From vineyards overlooking the city of Vi-

enna, this is a field blend of old varieties. It is crisp and spicy with an exotic ginger note along with its fruitiness,


BUYINGGUIDEand fresh acidity. It’s not for aging but will improve over the next year. Screwcap. Winebow. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $22

90 Spaetrot Gebeshuber 2011 Reserve (Thermenregion). This concentrated, ripe

wine boasts apricot flavors and great balancing acidity. It’s pure in feeling with a tangy, mineral structure and focused fruit and acidity giving freshness. Screwcap. Vi-gnaioli. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $28

89 Spaetrot Gebeshuber 2011 Grosse Re-serve (Thermenregion). Aged in wood,

this wine has richness and weight even though it loses some of the fruitiness of the Zierfandler and Rotgipfler grapes that make up the blend. It is smooth, rounded, and just hinting at a more tangy character. A wine like this needs another year to fully integrate. Screwcap. Vi-gnaioli. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $28

88 Cobenzl 2012 Gemischter Satz Classic (Vienna). Light and fruity, this is a delicious

wine with no sides. It has green fruits, citrus, a touch of perfume and good acidity. From old vineyards with mixed plantings, this is a blend in the typical Viennese tradition. Screwcap. Darcy Huber Selections. —R.V. abv: 12% Price: $NA

88 Hannes Reeh 2012 Weiss Heideboden (Burgenland). Fine acidity cuts through this

richly fruity wine. Very pure and stylish, it’s aromatic with notes of white flowers, citrus and white fruits. Live-ly in texture, this is a delicious wine already, but it will age well over 2–4 years. Screwcap. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA

88 Spaetrot Gebeshuber 2012 Klassik (Thermenregion). Blending two local grapes,

Zierfandler and Rotgipfler, this is a perfumed, intensely fruity wine. Apples and orange zest come together to give delicious acidity, bright flavors and a crisp after-taste. Screwcap. Vignaioli. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $19

85 Strauss 2012 Strauss White (Steier-mark). This fresh, fragrant wine is buoyed by

citrus acidity and green apples. It’s all fruit—light and bright—finishing with a tangy lemon-zest character. Screwcap. Select Wines. —R.V. abv: 11% Price: $NA

OTHER WHITE WINES

91 Spaetrot Gebeshuber 2011 Modler Zier-fandler (Thermenregion). This smoky, per-

fumed single-vineyard wine has exotic spice flavors and a rich texture from wood aging. Made from the rare Zi-erfandler grape (only 200 acres are planted), the palate has weight, a good depth of yellow-fruit flavors and a generous character. It could age well another year or two. Screwcap. Vignaioli. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $34

90 Spaetrot Gebeshuber 2011 Laim Rotgip-fler (Thermenregion). A full-bodied wine

made from a cross of Traminer and Roter Veltliner, this is rich with pepper spice and yellow and white-fruit fla-vors. Very structured and youthful, the wine needs an-other year, maybe more to develop. Screwcap. Vignaioli. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $34

89 Strauss 2010 Gamlitzberg Reserve Tra-miner (Steiermark). The perfumed spiciness

from Traminer is balanced by notes of tropical fruit, peppered pears and a fine, attractive acidity. The wine is full bodied, direct and delicious. Screwcap. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA

88 Lackner Tinnacher 2012 Welschriesling (Südsteiermark). This is a soft, fruity wine

cut with bright green fruits, fresh apple acidity and lemon zest. It’s an immediately attractive, clean and fra-grant wine, with a pure line of acidity right at the heart of its refreshing nature. Domaine Select Wine Estates. —R.V. abv: 12% Price: $23

87 Fuchs 2012 Welschriesling (Steiermark). This is a light, fruity wine that’s aromatic as well

as lively. Green plum and pear flavors are layered with a strong, crisp, citrus element. It’s not for aging, but it’s delicious now. Screwcap. Vignaioli. —R.V. abv: 11% Price: $14

SPARKLING WINES

90 Steininger 2010 Burgunder Sekt (Oster-reichischer Sekt). A complex blend of Char-

donnay, Pinot Noir and Weissburgunder, this is a rich, spicy wine, dry in style and with some tannins. It has weight and density, but doesn’t lose its creamy, fresh texture and acidity. It should age another year in bottle to get the best out of this serious wine. Select Wines. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $32

90 Szigeti 2009 Rosé Brut Pinot Noir (Oster-reichischer Sekt). This is a ripe, rich, sump-

tuous wine that has both great berry fruits and a more serious character. With acidity that plays right through the wine, it is crisp and bright, but full bodied, with con-siderable depth of flavor. Winebow. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $25

89 Steininger 2011 Sekt Sauvignon Blanc (Osterreichischer Sekt). One of the range

of single variety sparkling wines from Steininger, this Sauvignon Blanc shows all the herbaceous character of the grape. It is tangy with a strong zestiness, gooseberry fruit and a tight lemon aftertaste. Select Wines. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $32

88 Steininger 2011 Rosé Sekt (Oster-reichischer Sekt). Lively and crisp, this wine

hints more at fragrant red berries and red fruit than the tannins of Cabernet. The structure is there, but in the

background, giving the wine a chance at a couple of years’ bottle aging. Select Wines. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $32

88 Steininger 2011 Sekt Grüner Veltliner (Osterreichischer Sekt). Very crisp apples

and lime juice fit well together in this fruity sparkling wine. It has plenty of acidity, of course, balanced with a mineral texture and a light hint of spice. Select Wines. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $32

88 Strauss NV Frizzante Gelber Muskateller (Steiermark). This is a sweet, lightly sparkling

wine—think Moscato d’Asti, or honey and lemon. It’s a great aperitif with spice and citrus adding to the plea-sure of this delicate, fruity wine. Screwcap. Artisanal Wine Cellars. —R.V. abv: 12% Price: $NA

88 Szigeti NV Brut Grüner Veltliner (Oster-reichischer Sekt). Grüner, with its natu-

ral acidity, makes a fine base for a fresh, fruity spar-kling wine. It’s delicious and crisp, with lots of apples and grapefruit flavors, finishing with bright acidity. Winebow. —R.V. abv: 12% Price: $21

88 Szigeti 2009 Edition Gustav Klimt Blanc de Blancs Brut (Osterreichischer Sekt).

This is a soft, creamy wine with a texture that is dry while also rounded. White fruits, lemony acidity and a mineral edge are all consistent. The finish is full of acid-ity and a touch of bitterness. Winebow. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $25

87 Steininger 2010 Sekt Pinot Noir (Oster-reichischer Sekt). For lovers of red sparkling

wine with its attendant tannins, this is a fine example. It has a definite Pinot Noir farmyard character along with tannins, a touch of smokiness, and a definite need for food. Select Wines. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $32

87 Szigeti NV Rosé Brut (Osterreichischer Sekt). A fruity wine, full of red-berry fruits

and a fine, tangy texture. The mousse is soft and creamy with a great line of acidity. It’s an attractive rosé as a summer aperitif, but also with food. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $NA

86 Markus Huber NV Hugo Rosé Sparkling (Osterreichischer Sekt). For full review see

page 10. abv: 11.5% Price: $15

86 Steininger 2011 Sekt Riesling (Oster-reichischer Sekt). With some attractive per-

fume, this is a crisp sparkling wine that’s brightly fruity and touched with spice and lemon acidity. It has a pep-per edge and a tangy mouthfeel, and finishes on a bold, citrusy note. Select Wines. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $32

85 Hermann Moser NV Sparkling Mosi Brut Gelber Muskateller (Osterreichischer

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Sekt). This is described as Brut dry, but the perfumed character of the Gelber Muskateller grape gives this fruity wine a feeling of sweetness. It’s soft, aromatic and lightly flavored with lychee. Boutique Wine Collection. —R.V. abv: 11.5% Price: $NA

ROSÉS

86 Schloss Gobelsburg 2012 Cistercien Rosé (Niederösterreich). This is a delicious-

ly refreshing rosé that shows ripe red fruits while also keeping intense, steely acidity. Very fresh and very crisp, it’s a delicate dance of flavors on the palate. Screwcap. Michael Skurnik Wines. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $NA

86 Strauss 2012 Rosé (Steirmark). Very light-ly textured, this fruity, fresh wine has a hint of

caramel to accent flavors of citrus and red berries. The aftertaste is clean and always packed with fruit. Screw-cap. Select Wines. —R.V. abv: 10% Price: $NA

85 Fischer 2012 Classic Rosé (Thermen-region). This is a lightly fruity wine with at-

tractive red currant and raspberry flavors. It’s bright, crisp, touched by vanilla and finished with citrus acidity. Screwcap. Vignaioli. —R.V. abv: 11.5% Price: $17

85 Iby 2012 Rosé Blaufränkisch (Burgen-land). There’s some spice here, but the main

character is ripe red fruit. Rich, full bodied and juicy, it’s balanced by refreshing acidity. Caramel and pepper notes come through at the end. Screwcap. Domaine Se-lect Wine Estates. —R.V. abv: 12% Price: $18

85 Michlits 2012 Biokult Rosé Zweigelt (Nie-derösterreich). Fruity, light and strawberry

flavored, this wine is just a touch off dry. Bright acid-ity gives it freshness and a citrus aftertaste. It’s a wine for drinking this summer. Screwcap. Natural Merchants LLC. —R.V. abv: 10.5% Price: $13

85 Pratsch 2012 Rosé (Niederösterreich). A fluorescent pink color introduces this soft,

full and fruity wine with fine, balanced acidity. There is a touch of caramel, along with crisp acidity from red-cherry flavors. Ready to drink. Screwcap. Winesellers Ltd. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $13

BLAUFRÄNKISCH

92 Gernot and Heike Heinrich 2010 Blau-fränkisch (Leithaberg). This is a sophisti-

cated, richly textured wine that offers spice and solid tannins that are smoothed out by the wood aging. It’s complex rather than powerful, with a concentrated, juicy richness on the finish. Give this fine wine at least

4–6 years to mature. Glass stopper. Winebow. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $45

92 Kollwentz 2009 Leithagebirge Blaufrän-kisch (Burgenland). Aging for 18 months in

oak has given this rich wine a smooth character, balanc-ing juicy red berry flavors with complex barnyard and wild undergrowth flavors. The powerful combination demands aging even after four years, so give it another 3–4. VOS Selections. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $38

91 Glatzer 2011 Reserve Blaufränkisch (Carnuntum). This is an impressive, solidly

tannic wine that needs aging. The black plum flavors are still dominated by spice and wood, lending a dry and dark character to the wine. Solid with good depths of flavor, the wine should be kept for 4–5 years before opening. Michael Skurnik Wines. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA

91 Steindorfer 2011 Alte Reben Blaufrän-kisch (Burgenland). BIg, bold and ripe, this

wine has juicy blackberry flavors, sweet tannins and lay-ers of refreshing acidity. With everything so vivid at the moment, it’s obvious it needs time. You could give it 4–5 years in the cellar, although if fruitiness is your pleasure, then drink this wine sooner. Select Wines. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $34

89 Gernot and Heike Heinrich 2011 Blau-fränkisch (Burgenland). This is a juicy,

fruity wine that’s just hinting at the spice typical to Blau-fränkisch. Intense blackberry flavors are balanced by a leathery texture, bold acidity, and soft tannins. Probably ready to drink in a year. Glass stopper. Winebow. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $25

87 Glatzer 2011 Blaufränkisch (Carnuntum). Pepper and spice notes accent this soft, ripe and

full-bodied wine with forward black-fruit flavors. It ex-hibits typical Blaufränkisch characteristics of leather and pepper to go with the fruits, but this rich wine is not for aging. Drink now. Screwcap. Michael Skurnik Wines. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $NA

ST. LAURENT

90 Steindorfer 2011 Reserve St. Laurent (Burgenland). The small quantities of St Lau-

rent produced in Austria show the grape’s great poten-tial. This is a very fruity wine with a dry core and fine sense of structure. Full of red fruits, spice and tannin, it’s likely to age for 2–4 years. Select Wines. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA

89 Glatzer 2011 Altenberg St. Laurent (Car-nuntum). This intensely juicy wine is packed

with red berry fruits, soft tannins and a light touch of wood. It is already a delicious, forward wine that’s ripe

and full bodied. It could age well for another 2–3 years. Michael Skurnik Wines. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $NA

88 Gernot and Heike Heinrich 2011 St. Lau-rent (Burgenland). From vines on the slopes

of the north-west corner of Lake Neusiedl, this is a broad, juicy wine. It has red cherry flavors, soft, gener-ous tannins and attractively balanced acidity. It’s not a wine for long-term aging and is likely to be at its best in three years. Glass stopper Winebow. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $37

86 Fischer 2009 Classic St. Laurent (Ther-menregion). This perfumed, juicy wine ex-

hibts attractive red plum and blackberry flavors. Touch-es of herbs show a fragrant side to the wine, while acid-ity acts as a foil to the ripe fruits. Ready to drink now. Screwcap. Vignaioli. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $24

PINOT NOIR

87 Anton Bauer 2010 Reserve Pinot Noir (Wagram-Donauland). Very pale in color,

this is a fruity, fragrant wine. It has acidity, red fruits and a leathery texture. There is something of the un-dergrowth here, an earthy character that needs time to broaden out. Give the wine 4–5 years. Prescott Wines. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $NA

87 Graf Hardegg 2009 Vom Schlossen Pinot Noir (Niederösterreich). This light colored,

ripe wine has a fragrant raspberry flavor laced with a more earthy character. Great juiciness leads into a soft and rounded texture with a bitter cherry aftertaste. Not for aging, ready to drink. Screwcap. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $NA

ZWEIGELT

92 Glatzer 2011 Rubin Carnuntum Zweigelt (Carnuntum). Rubin is the name used in Car-

nuntum for those wines that have been judged by other producers in the region. Walter Glatzer’s Rubin is solid, dark, concentrated and rich. It has the smoothness of wood aging while retaining its Bing-cherry and black-currant flavors. With its firm character, it needs some aging for four years and more. Michael Skurnik Wines. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA

91 Glatzer 2011 Dornenvogel Zweigelt (Car-nuntum). This hard-edged wine has bitter

chocolate as well as black-currant flavors. Quite young at this stage, this is a dark, powerful, concentrated wine that has both great fruit and a dense structure. Give it four years to mature. Michael Skurnik Wines. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA

91 Hannes Reeh 2011 Unplugged Zweigelt (Burgenland). This is a bold wine with spice


BUYINGGUIDEand pepper, but also great, juicy black fruits. The palate is rich—not too heavy—with layered blackberries and acidity over soft tannins. It’s worth aging for 3–5 years but can be drunk now for its fruitiness. Acid Inc Selec-tions. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $26

90 Kollwentz 2010 Föllikberg Zweigelt (Bur-genland). This is a big, bold and fruity wine

that’s full of black fruits, dark plums and rich berries. It has a juicy character over firm, dense tannins from the Föllikberg Vineyard on the west side of Neusiedlersee. It is dark and dry, and likely to benefit from at least four years’ aging. VOS Selections. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $35

89 Gernot and Heike Heinrich 2011 Zweigelt (Burgenland). A wine made from 30-year old

vines, this is firm, solid and tannic. It feels weighty with a smooth texture that burrows deep into the black fruits and acidity. Fine acidity and a layer of spice complete this attractive wine that is worth aging for 3–5 years. Glass stopper Winebow. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $25

89 Hannes Reeh 2011 Zweigelt (Neusiedler-see). The second of the two Zweigelts pro-

duced by Reeh, this is more structured. It is dark and dense, full of firm tannins and with a mineral texture. The mouthfeel is chewy, with fine acidity shooting through from the background. Best for aging over 1–3 years. Screwcap. Acid Inc Selections. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $32

88 Glatzer 2011 Riedencuvée Zweigelt (Car-nuntum). A solidly structured wine, this is firm

in both its tannins and in its mineral texture. Black cher-ry flavors are combined with a dense, dry core to give a wine that’s both fruity now and worth aging for 1–3 years. Screwcap. Michael Skurnik Wines. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $NA

86 Hermann Moser 2009 Zweigelt (Nie-derösterreich). This rounded, dry wine is full

of red berry flavor, a layer of dark tannins and attractive spiciness. It’s a full wine, ready to drink with its juicy acidity at the end. Screwcap. Boutique Wine Collec-tion. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $NA

86 R&A Pfaffl 2011 Austrian Cherry Zwei-gelt (Niederösterreich). This juicy wine is

smoky with wood aging. Black cherry flavors live up to the name, giving a freshness to this flavorful wine. It’s not a complex wine, but has a ripe, forward, open feel—just pleasure. Screwcap. Palm Bay International. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $14

85 Pratsch 2011 Zweigelt (Niederöster-reich). This wine is marked by straightforward

red fruit flavors, light tannins, a touch of stalkiness and a spicy edge. It’s a great wine for barbecues this summer. Screwcap. Winesellers Ltd. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $14/1 L

RED BLENDS

92 Gernot and Heike Heinrich 2010 Panno-bile (Burgenland). This is a blend of Zwei-

gelt and Blaufränkisch selected at a tasting of other winemakers around the Gols region. The wine is struc-tured and concentrated, but not heavy, with a good juicy depth of flavor and solid tannins. Black currants and black plums dominate this serious, ageworthy wine. Glass stopper. Winebow. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $55

90 Hannes Reeh 2011 Rot Heideboden (Burgenland). This smooth, wood-aged wine

is richly tannic and packed with new wood flavors. Ripe red berries offer fruitiness and acidity. It has a fine depth of flavor and density, making it likely to age for several years, at least four. Screwcap. Acid Inc Selec-tions. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $18

90 Spaetrot Gebeshuber 2011 Grosse Re-serve (Thermenregion). A wood-aged blend

of Pinot Noir and Saint Laurent, this is a ripe, smooth, perfumed wine. It has juicy red fruits laced with acid-ity, toast and a firm structure of fruit tannins. Give this wine at least three years to develop. Screwcap. Vignai-oli. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $28

90 Wieninger 2010 Wiener Trilogy (Vienna). Wieninger’s blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and

Merlot is a finely structured wine. It has black currant flavor, firm tannins, and a dark core of dryness. Wood aging has lifted the fruits and acidity and added a sense of elegance. It’s for aging over 4–6 years. Screwcap. Winebow. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $30

86 Arachon 2009 Evolution (Burgenland). This heavily wood-aged wine shows layers of

concentrated toast, extracted chocolate and black plum flavors. The wine is big and rich with a bitterness com-ing from the wood. It needs another 2–3 years to round out fully. Weygandt-Metzler. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $NA

85 Strauss 2012 Red (Steiermark). A rare red from the hilly region of Styria, this is light and

fruity with spice and acidity. Red berry flavors dominate although a dry edge brings a firmer structure. Screwcap. Select Wines. —R.V. abv: 12% Price: $NA

84 Strauss 2008 Cuvée Julia Gamlitzberg Reserve (Steiermark). This leathery, spicy

wine is fully mature—perhaps too old. It has lost fruit certainly and gained a touch of cocoa along with the wood from barrel aging. It’s not going to improve so drink now. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA

83 Hermann Moser 2012 Rosi Mosi (Nie-derösterreich). Red fruit and citrus notes

show through tight acidity on this slightly bitter wine

touched with sulfur aromas. It’s dry and sharp in style. Screwcap. Boutique Wine Collection. —R.V. abv: 12% Price: $NA

DESSERT WINES

94 Schloss Gobelsburg 2011 Riesling Trock-enbeerenauslese (Niederösterreich). Just

pouring this wine reveals its opulent character. It has intense richness and equally intense acidity that hides behind the honeyed, tropical fruit of the wine. It has a sense of texture as well, with intense minerality in the midst of richness. At the end, the acidity comes through strongly and promises a decade or more of aging. Mi-chael Skurnik Wines. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: 9% Price: $NA/375 ml

93 Markus Huber 2012 Riesling Eiswein (Niederösterreich). With such intense acid-

ity over honey and lemon flavors, this is wine nectar. Peaches and mangos give the fruit character, while the concentrated berries just ooze sweetness. A wine that needs considerable aging over 5–7 years. Circo Vino. —R.V. abv: 10% Price: $42/375 ml

92 Schloss Gobelsburg 2011 Riesling Aus-lese (Niederösterreich). This is a delicate

sweet Riesling, honeyed and with intense acidity as a foil. The wine is delicate, holding back on its richness with a light touch, and very poised. The wine is destined for aging over at least six years and more. Screwcap. Mi-chael Skurnik Wines. —R.V. abv: 7% Price: $NA/375 ml

90 Steindorfer 2010 Sauvignon Blanc- Chardonnay (Burgenland). A blend of Sau-

vignon Blanc and Chardonnay, this richly honeyed, still very young wine has all the weight and richness of sweet wines from the southern end of Lake Neusiedl. It is packed with ripe yellow fruits, layered with intense honey and has just an edge of dryness from the noble rot. It’s worth aging over 4–6 years. —R.V. abv: 11% Price: $NA/375 ml

GERMANY

MOSEL

96 S.A. Prüm 2010 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Trockenbeerenauslese (Mosel).

This stunning TBA is a powerhouse of superripe peach, mango and orange flavors. The palate feels smooth and rich with honey and marmalade, but it’s ethereally light with a dusty minerality and shrieking lemon acidity that reverberates on the finish. Gorgeous now, but should develop an earthy, honeyed intensity over the next de-cade. Palm Bay International. Cellar Selection. —A.I. abv: 5.5% Price: $200

94 Dr. Heidemanns-Bergweiler 2011 Ber-nkasteler Badstube Riesling Beerenaus-

lese (Mosel). Smoky and earthy on the nose, this remarkably complex Beerenauslese highlights bright,

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sunny stonefruit flavors with layers of minerality. It’s delightfully flinty, but lip-smackingly honeyed as well. Finishes briskly with a delicate saline note. Saranty Im-ports. —A.I. abv: NA Price: $50/375 ml

94 Dr. Pauly Bergweiler 2010 Bernkasteler Badstube Riesling Beerenauslese (Mo-

sel). The faintest whiff of petrol adds a seductive min-eral tone to bright, sweet honeyed peach and candied orange-peel notes on this penetrating Riesling. The pal-ate bristles with acidity, intensifying juicy citrus flavors on the finish. Winesellers Ltd. —A.I. abv: 7% Price: $50/375 ml

93 Dr. Loosen 2010 Riesling Beerenauslese (Mosel). Waxy lemon-rind and lanolin notes

add earthy complexity to pretty white blossom aromas on this intensely fruity, floral Beerenauslese. It’s rich on the palate with concentrated peach preserve flavors, but piercing acidity makes it nervy and fresh. Honey and marmalade flavors extend long on the finish. Loosen Bros. USA. —A.I. abv: 7% Price: $48/375 ml

93 Dr. Hermann 2010 Erdener Treppchen Riesling Beerenauslese (Mosel). Aro-

mas of honeycomb and lanolin lend a savory tone to this mineral-laden Beerenauslese, but the palate is all deep, rich peach and quince preserves, with an end-lessly rippling tangerine acidity. Broadbent Selections, Inc. —A.I. abv: 6.5% Price: $100/375 ml

92 Dr. Heidemanns-Bergweiler 2011 Ber-nkasteler Badstube Riesling Auslese

(Mosel). A burst of tropical mango and melon aromas introduce this juicy, delicately structured Auslese. The palate is sweet with fresh stone-fruit flavors, but keenly balanced with layers of dusty earth and dried herbs that add complexity and depth. Bristling and crisp on the fin-ish. Saranty Imports. —A.I. abv: NA Price: $38

92 Dr. Heidemanns-Bergweiler 2011 Ber-nkasteler Badstube Riesling Spätlese

(Mosel). The palate seems rich with flavors of honey, lanolin and ripe, penetrating yellow peach and man-go, but the texture and mouthfeel here are as light as a feather. It’s intensely juicy and fruity, but racy acidity and a crushed-slate minerality lends focus and balance. Saranty Imports. —A.I. abv: NA Price: $28

92 Dr. Heidemanns-Bergweiler 2011 Graach-er Himmelreich Riesling Spätlese (Mo-

sel). There’s an intense punch of sweet yellow peach on this lip-smackingly delicious Spätlese. Hints of savory spice and struck flint, and a deep, rippling minerality adds complexity and depth through the finish. Saranty Imports. —A.I. abv: NA Price: $30

92 Markus Molitor 2010 Haus Klosterberg Riesling Spätlese (Mosel). Honey, orange

peel and spice notes mark the nose of this remark-

ably rich, yet sprightly Spätlese. The palate is honeyed in sweetness, even slightly caramelized, yet freshened with piercing orange acidity that stretches out the finish. Schmitt-Sohne Inc. —A.I. abv: 7.5% Price: $23

92 Markus Molitor 2010 Wehlener Son-nenuhr Riesling Spätlese (Mosel). The

blossomy floral perfume that opens this wine is intrigu-ing, mingling curiously with whiffs of wax, lanolin and wet stones. Decadently fruity on the palate, it’s rich with sweet peach and mango flavor, and lingers long in a swirl of floral tones. Schmitt-Sohne Inc. —A.I. abv: 7.5% Price: $32

92 Markus Molitor 2010 Zeltinger Son-nenuhr Riesling Spätlese (Mosel). In-

tense minerality permeates through this medium-sweet Riesling, adding steely dimension to rich, ripe yellow peach and apricot flavors. The finish lingers long on the palate—a fascinating counterplay of waxy honeycomb notes with a drying black-tea astringency. Schmitt-Sohne Inc. —A.I. abv: 7.5% Price: $32

91 Dr. H. Thanisch (Erben Thanisch) 2011 Berncasteler Doctor Riesling Auslese

(Mosel). Intensely smoky, dusty mineral aromas on this Riesling dissipate with aeration to reveal a delight-ful bouquet of white blossoms and stonefruit. The pal-ate is bright with citrus acidity and sweet yellow cher-ries. While lively and fresh now, it should develop re-markable complexity over the next 5–7 years. Valcken-berg International, Inc. —A.I. abv: 7.5% Price: $50

91 Dr. Heidemanns-Bergweiler 2011 Ber-nkasteler alte Badstube am Doctorberg

Riesling Spätlese (Mosel). Aromatically subtle with scents of delicate stone fruit marked by flint and slate, this Riesling builds in intensity on the palate with loads of luscious white-peach flavor. It’s delicate and crisp on the palate with a long, white-tea finish. Saranty Imports. —A.I. abv: NA Price: $33

91 Markus Molitor 2010 Haus Klosterberg Riesling Kabinett (Mosel). Hints of lano-

lin, fennel and beeswax add savory touches to elegant peach-preserve and tangerine flavors on this delicate, almost lacy, Kabinett. Zippy lemon-lime acidity rever-berates on the palate, carrying to a curiously spice-kissed finish. Schmitt-Sohne Inc. —A.I. abv: 7.5% Price: $20

91 Markus Molitor 2010 Wehlener Son-nenuhr Riesling Kabinett (Mosel). Whiffs

of zesty lemon and fresh herbs lend vitality to rich, hon-eyed peach flavors on this unabashedly juicy, semi-dry Kabinett. An ideal late-summer apéritif at an excellent price, it finishes with a bracing shower of jasmine tea and lime acidity. Schmitt-Sohne Inc. —A.I. abv: 7.5% Price: $22

91 Peter Nicolay 2011 Bernkasteler Bads-tube Riesling Auslese (Mosel). Whiffs of

crushed slate and smoke add earthy complexity to sweet yellow-peach and pink-grapefruit flavors in this delicate but composed Auslese. Intensely minerally on the pal-ate, it finishes with a fresh, green, floral flair and pierc-ing citrus acidity. Saranty Imports. —A.I. abv: NA Price: $35

90 Ansgar Clüsserath 2010 Trittenheimer Apotheke Riesling Kabinett (Mosel).

Hints of crushed slate lend a smoky, flinty character to concentrated flavors of tangerine and quince preserve in this beautiful off-dry Riesling. It’s intensely fruity, but anchored in minerality from start to finish. Domaine Se-lect Wine Estates. —A.I. abv: 8% Price: $25

90 Dr. H. Thanisch (Erben Thanisch) 2011 Bernkasteler Badstube Riesling Auslese

(Mosel). Notes of waxy lanolin and crushed slate add an earthy, savory tone to ripe, rich orange-marmalade flavors on this juicy little Riesling. Dusty minerality and tart lemon-rind notes extend on the long, bracing finish. Drink now for it’s fruity freshness, or hold for 5–7 years at least to allow its minerality to intensify. Valckenberg International, Inc. —A.I. abv: 8.5% Price: $52

90 Dr. Hermann 2010 Erdener Treppchen Herzlay Riesling Spätlese (Mosel). A tinge

of white flower mingles with notes of honeycomb and lemon rind on this beautifully complex semi-dry Ries-ling. The palate is rich with sweet yellow peach and honey flavors balanced by citrus acidity and a bristle of black-tea astringency. Broadbent Selections, Inc. —A.I. abv: 9% Price: $35

90 Dr. Hermann 2010 Ürziger Würzgarten Riesling Spätlese (Mosel). Notes of lemon

and cherry blossom brighten tones of crushed stone and slate on this semi-dry Riesling. Juicy and ripe with fla-vors of melon and white peach, it’s intensely fruity and floral but honed with reverberating minerality on the finish. Broadbent Selections, Inc. —A.I. abv: 8.5% Price: $32

90 Dr. Pauly Bergweiler 2011 Bernkasteler alte Badstube am Doctorberg Riesling

Auslese (Mosel). While sprightly and sweet on the attack, this deeply fruity Riesling deepens on the pal-ate with layers of earth and smoky mineral tones. Juicy apricot and pink-grapefruit notes linger on the finish with an astringent touch of lemon rind. Winesellers Ltd. —A.I. abv: NA Price: $57

90 Karl Kaspar 2010 Riesling Kabinett (Mo-sel). Tantalizing spice notes mix with aromas

of quince and lanolin on this fabulous bargain Riesling. While intensely tropical on the palate, it’s remarkably nuanced with hints of potpourri, white flowers, and a sharp, steely acidity. Perfect as an aperitif, or paired with spicy, herbaceous Asian cuisine. Scoperta Import-ing Co. Inc. Best Buy. —A.I. abv: 8% Price: $13


BUYINGGUIDE

90 Peter Nicolay 2011 Bernkasteler Bads-tube Riesling Spätlese (Mosel). Wet stone

and earth notes add a distinct minerality to intensely fruity peach and apricot flavors on this ripe, but dainty Riesling. Zippy acidity and a flurry of fresh, green herbs make for a brisk finish. Saranty Imports. —A.I. abv: NA Price: $29

90 Peter Nicolay 2011 Ürziger Goldwingert Riesling Spätlese (Mosel). Earthy shades of

struck flint and petrol add focus to lusciously ripe stone-fruit and white-floral notes on this intensely concen-trated, yet delicate Riesling. Zippy with fruit and acid, it’s delicious to the long, steely finish. Saranty Imports. —A.I. abv: NA Price: $30

90 Ulrich Langguth 2010 Piesporter Gün-terslay Riesling Kabinett (Mosel). Smoky,

flinty crushed-stone notes are kissed with a blossomy perfume on this delicately structured, off-dry Riesling. The palate is concentrated with sweet, sunny peach and apricot flavors, but piercing acidity bristles on the tongue through the finish. Deutsch Family Wine & Spirits. —A.I. abv: 9.5% Price: $23

89 Markus Molitor 2010 Bernkasteler Bads-tube Riesling Spätlese (Mosel). Whiffs of

smoke and struck flint blow off with aeration, reveal-ing bright orange and lemon peel notes on this off-dry Spätlese. It’s broad and a bit luscious on the palate, with intense, dusty minerality and a spray of fresh herbs and lemon-pith notes that lend a bristling astringency. Schmitt-Sohne Inc. —A.I. abv: 11.5% Price: $29

89 Markus Molitor 2010 Zeltinger Son-nenuhr Riesling Spätlese Dry (Mosel).

Dusty, stony minerality penetrates from start to finish on this dry, full-bodied Riesling. The palate is austere in flavor with bristling notes of lemon pith and dried herbs, but the mouthfeel is rich and round with a lus-cious mineral-oil viscosity. Schmitt-Sohne Inc. —A.I. abv: 12% Price: $32

87 Peter Mertes 2010 Bernkastel Kueser Gold Edition Riesling Kabinett Trock-

en (Mosel). Zesty lemon and yellow-peach notes are touched with lanolin on this dry, yet deeply fruity Ries-ling. Stone fruit flavors are intensely ripe, almost pulpy, on the palate, but accented with sharp lime acidity. Banks Channel. —A.I. abv: 10% Price: $17

RHEINGAU

96 Robert Weil 2010 Kiedrich Gräfenberg Riesling Trockenbeerenauslese (Rhein-

gau). Honey and smoke mix seductively on this pierc-ingly bright yet intensely rich TBA full of orange mar-malade and sweet peach nectar. It’s unctuously honeyed but delicately textured on the palate. It’s earthy mineral-

ity should deepen considerably over the next ten years. Loosen Bros. USA. Cellar Selection. —A.I. abv: 7.5% Price: $672/375 ml

95 Robert Weil 2010 Kiedrich Turmberg Riesling Trockenbeerenauslese (Rhe-

ingau). Rich, sweet honey mingles with spicy dried orange-peel and wax notes on this delectably creamy, marmalade-laden TBA. The palate brims with luscious-ly sweet preserved-peach flavors balanced by piercing citrus acidity and a long honey-kissed finish. Stunning now, but what a joy to keep for the next decade or two. Loosen Bros. USA. Cellar Selection. —A.I. abv: 7.5% Price: $672/375 ml

94 Robert Weil 2010 Kiedrich Gräfenberg Riesling Beerenauslese (Rheingau). Sa-

vory, rather austere aromas of fresh herbs, lemon and honeycomb belie the intensity of sweet, rich tangerine and peach preserves on this decadent, yet light-as-a-feather Beerenauslese. Tart, citrus acidity extends the orange marmalade finish. Enjoy now for it’s ethereal juiciness, or hold back a decade or two to deepen its waxy, honeyed tones. Loosen Bros. USA. Cellar Selec-tion. —A.I. abv: 7% Price: $322/375 ml

94 Schloss Vollrads 2010 Riesling Beere-nauslese (Rheingau). Whiffs of orange blos-

soms add delicate floral flair to sweet marmalade and honey tones on this penetrating dessert Riesling. While creamy and sweet on the tongue, earthy mineral tones and piercing acidity add balance and structure. It’s de-licious now, but certainly an age-worthy wine that will develop gorgeously over the next two decades at least. Schmitt-Sohne Inc. Cellar Selection. —A.I. abv: 6.5% Price: $200/375 ml

93 August Kesseler 2011 Rüdesheim Berg Roseneck Erstes Gewächs Riesling

(Rheingau). Stunningly complex, this dry, richly tex-tured Riesling undulates between lush, fruity pre-served-peach flavor, and a deeply rippling minerality. Lime-pith and wax tones add elegance and astringen-cy to a finish that’s kissed with honey and orange peel. Vineyard Brands. —A.I. abv: 13% Price: $75

93 Robert Weil 2010 Kiedrich Turmberg Riesling Beerenauslese (Rheingau).

While a bit subdued on the nose, the tiniest sip reveals the power and intensity of this rich, decadent Beere-nauslese. Delicate in frame, yet gorgeously concentrat-ed, the palate is packed with wildflower honey and tan-gerine sweetness, countered by earthier notes of nuts, smoke and a wet-stone minerality. Loosen Bros. USA. Cellar Selection. —A.I. abv: 7.5% Price: $322/375 ml

92 Johannishof 2011 Rüdesheim Berg Rottland Erstes Gewächs Riesling (Rhe-

ingau). While dry in style, this voluptuous Riesling is concentrated with richly extracted stone-fruit and grapefruit flavors. A floral perfume persists from start

to finish, accompanied by an elegant saline minerality. Valckenberg International, Inc. —A.I. abv: 13.5% Price: $69

91 Robert Weil 2011 Kiedrich Gräfenberg Erstes Gewächs Riesling Trocken (Rhe-

ingau). This dry Riseling is richly mouthfilling and in-tensely mineral, with delicate stone-fruit flavors that mingle with notes of wax and orange rind. It’s lush and full bodied, but balanced with tart lemon acidity and a drying astringency on the finish. Loosen Bros. USA. —A.I. abv: 13.5% Price: $80

90 Johannishof 2011 Johannisberg Hölle Erstes Gewächs Riesling (Rheingau).

Dried herb and spice aromas lend a savory tone to the nose, but the palate on this Riesling is lush with in-tensely ripened apricot and yellow-peach fruitiness. It’s dry in style, yet luscious in body with a slightly herba-ceous, mineral-rich finish. Valckenberg International, Inc. —A.I. abv: 12.5% Price: $69

RHEINHESSEN

90 Rheingraf 2011 Riesling Trocken (Rhein-hessen). Whiffs of slate and petrol add nuance

to white flower and pineapple aromas on this intensely minerally, dry Riesling. The palate is lush and full with ripe nectarine flavor, freshened with a swathe of fresh green herbs on the finish. Valckenberg International, Inc. —A.I. abv: 13% Price: $25

89 Louis Guntrum 2011 Nierstein Rehbach Riesling Spätlese (Rheinhessen). Redo-

lent of honey and ripe tropical fruit, this semi-dry Ries-ling is lusciously fruity on the palate, but braced with elegant black-tea tones and a long, lime-juice finish. Beautifully structured and effortlessly quaffable. Broad-bent Selections, Inc. —A.I. abv: 10% Price: $22

89 Weingut Liebfrauenstift 2010 Liebfrauen-stift-Kirchenstück Riesling Trocken (Rhe-

inhessen). There’s subdued elegance to this dry, lush-ly textured Riesling. The nose is delicately aromatic with whiffs of stonefruit and smoke that build on the palate. Intensely minerally and bright with lime acidity, it finishes long with a rich, slightly viscous mouthfeel. Valckenberg International, Inc. —A.I. abv: 12.5% Price: $63

88 Weingut Georg Albrecht Schneider 2011 Niersteiner Hipping Riesling Spätlese

(Rheinhessen). Intensely aromatic, intensely fruity, this Riesling packs a powerful punch of flavor within a delicate frame. The fruit profile is tropical with con-centrated guava and mango flavors spiced with hints of white pepper. It’s semi-sweet in style, but bracing acid-ity leaves the finish quite dry. Winesellers Ltd. —A.I. abv: 9% Price: $18

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88 Weingut Liebfrauenstift 2011 Dry Ries-ling (Rheinhessen). The fruit profile on this

Riesling is crisp and fresh with elegant hints of under-ripe peach and pineapple. Dry and full bodied with a broad, feathery texture on the palate, it’s brisk with min-erality and a delicate lime acidity. Valckenberg Interna-tional, Inc. —A.I. abv: 12% Price: $19

87 Dr. Heyden 2011 Oppenheimer Sack-träger Riesling Spätlese (Rheinhessen).

Whiffs of spice accent scents of dried herb on this lus-ciously ripe semi-dry Riesling. The palate is rich with tropical fruit flavors off set by sharp lemon acidity and hints of dark mineral. A delectably ripe wine that fin-ishes remarkably dry. Winesellers Ltd. —A.I. abv: 11% Price: $18

87 Louis Guntrum 2011 Dry Riesling (Rhe-inhessen). Crisp white peach and floral notes

are tinged with shades of wax on this this dry, full-bod-ied Riesling. There’s a touch of spritz still on the palate that adds vibe and refreshment. Broadbent Selections, Inc. —A.I. abv: 12% Price: $15

87 Trullo 2011 Riesling (Rheinhessen). In-tensely fruity, this off-dry Riesling boasts a

bounty of superripe tropical fruit, and even a hint of red berries. It’s soft and lush on the palate with a caramel-ized, glycerine-like texture, but balanced with brisk tan-gerine acidity. Scoperta Importing Co. Inc. Best Buy. —A.I. abv: 11% Price: $11

86 Peter Mertes 2011 Platinum Riesling Spätlese (Rheinhessen). Hints of rye and

caraway lend a spicy, savory tone to this herbaceous semi-sweet Riesling. Juicy and ripe with pleasant stone-fruit flavor, it finishes brisk and crisp. Banks Channel. Best Buy. —A.I. abv: 9.5% Price: $8

PFALZ

90 A. Christmann 2010 Deidesheimer Para-diesgarten Riesling Trocken (Pfalz).

Crushed granite notes add an austere elegance to pris-tine white-peach and citrus notes on this dry but lus-ciously mouthfilling Riesling. It’s rich and round on the palate, with savory tones of fresh herbs that linger on the finish. Domaine Select Wine Estates. —A.I. abv: 12.5% Price: $35

90 A. Christmann 2010 Gimmeldinger Bi-engarten Riesling Trocken (Pfalz). Exqui-

sitely smoky and savory dried herb tones calibrate rich, tropical fruit aromas on this dry yet voluptuously tex-tured Riesling. The palate is penetrating with minerality and a soft, elegant lemon-lime acidity. Finishes long and rich. Domaine Select Wine Estates. —A.I. abv: 13.5% Price: $42

89 A. Christmann 2009 Königsbacher Idig Riesling Trocken (Pfalz). Dusty earth and

smoke notes lend a mysteriously dark tone to delicate berry and dried apricot notes in this dry yet rich Ries-ling. It’s savory and earthy, with a creamy, textured mouthfeel balanced by brisk lime acidity. Domaine Se-lect Wine Estates. —A.I. abv: 13% Price: $73

FRANKEN

89 Castell 2010 Casteller Schlossberg Sil-vaner Trocken GG (Franken). Dried herb

notes are prominent on this elegant, mineral-laden Sil-vaner. It’s dry in style with a rich, round mouthfeel and understated tones of lemon, white peach and quince. Finishes long on a refreshingly green note. Valckenberg International, Inc. —A.I. abv: 13% Price: $63

88 Castell 2010 Casteller Schlossberg Ries-ling Trocken (Franken). Smoke and dried-

herb notes lend an intensely savory tone to this dry Riesling from Franken. It’s profoundly minerally on the palate, but brightened by crisp citrus acidity that lin-gers on the finish. A savory companion to hearty pork or chicken dishes. Valckenberg International, Inc. —A.I. abv: 12% Price: $76

88 Castell 2011 Silvaner Trocken (Franken). This dry Silvaner balances a crisp, lean fruit pro-

file of white peach, lime and green apple, with a palate that’s full, voluptuous and weighty. It’s intensely min-erally, with a slight mineral-oil slick, but finishes clean with brisk lemon and citrus pith notes. Valckenberg In-ternational, Inc. —A.I. abv: 12% Price: $18

88 Dr. Heyden 2011 Alte Reben Silvaner Trocken (Rheinhessen). This wine is fasci-

nating on the nose with notes of ripe tropical fruit and heather mixed with dark, earthy scents of wax and lano-lin. Dry in style with a rich, weighty mouthfeel, it fin-ishes mysteriously with a smoky, floral flair. Winesellers Ltd. Best Buy. —A.I. abv: 12.5% Price: $13

87 Castell 2011 Kugelspiel Silvaner Trocken (Franken). Brisk lemon and fresh herb tones

make this dry, mineral-rich wine an elegant choice for pairing with herbaceous foods. Rich and round on the palate, it’s balanced by bright acidity and a dusty crushed-stone note that lingers long on the finish. Valckenberg International, Inc. —A.I. abv: 12.5% Price: $28

87 Castell 2009 Apriles Silvaner (Franken). Ripe with fruit and spicy with mysterious hints

of nutmeg and vanilla, this dry, but honey-toned Silvan-er is intense and sultry on the palate. It’s viscous and rich in texture, with plush, almost overripe fruit tones, and a soft acidity that lingers on the finish. Valckenberg International, Inc. —A.I. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA

BADEN

89 Franz Keller 2010 Schwarzer Adler Franz Anton Pinot Noir (Baden). Hints of graph-

ite and dried herbs add complexity to bright cherry and plum flavors on this elegant showcase for German Pinot Noir. The palate is concentrated with ripe fruit, brisk acidity and a focused minerality, with a hint of saline on the finish. Schmitt-Sohne Inc. Editors’ Choice. —A.I. abv: 13% Price: $42

88 Franz Keller 2010 Schwarzer Adler Pinot Noir (Baden). Understated and elegant, this

is a mineral-intense Pinot Noir with focused granite notes against a backdrop of tart sour-cherries and vio-let florals. It’s austere in style, but lovely to sip, with a finish marked with soft, dusty tannins. Schmitt-Sohne Inc. —A.I. abv: 13% Price: $25

88 Huber 2010 Malterdinger Pinot Noir Trocken (Baden). While expressive on the

nose with scents of dried cherries, potpourri and spice, the palate on this Pinot Noir is rather savory and aus-tere. Fresh with green herbs and a tart sour-cherry pro-file, it makes a brisk companion to an array of light meat and game dishes. Valckenberg International, Inc. —A.I. abv: 13.5% Price: $49

88 Huber 2010 Trocken Pinot Noir (Baden). Charred wood and smoke cast a veil over high-

toned red-cherry flavors on this pretty, floral Pinot Noir. The palate is delicate in flavor concentration, but struc-tured squarely with bristling acidity and soft, dusty tan-nins. Valckenberg International, Inc. —A.I. abv: 13.5% Price: $37

PIEDMONT

2009 BAROLO

96 Paolo Scavino 2009 Cannubi (Barolo). Hailing from 70-year-old vines in Cannubi, the

most storied vineyard in Barolo, this stunning wine is intensely perfumed with rose petal, violet, sage and eu-calyptus notes. The juicy palate delivers creamy black cherry, herb and mineral notes. It’s beautifully balanced and has great depth, wonderful energy and ample com-plexity. Banville & Jones Wine Merchants. Cellar Se-lection. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $118

95 Cantina Bartolo Mascarello 2009 Barolo. This producer has made an outstanding Barolo

2009—no easy feat in this vintage. This bottling is made from top vineyards in Barolo and La Morra. It has a gor-geous bouquet of rose, leather and a whiff of tar. The palate delivers a hint of carob, spice and succulent black cherry notes. Impeccably balanced, this is elegant and complex. A textbook Barolo. Rare Wine Company. Cel-lar Selection. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $120


BUYINGGUIDE

95 Cavallotto 2009 Bricco Boschis (Barolo). Cavallotto still travels under the radar, but is

one of the finest Barolo producers. Its Bricco Boschis is bold and beautiful, offering intense rose and berry aromas layered with eucalyptus. The creamy palate de-livers cherry, spice and balsamic notes, along with hints of Alpine herbs. To let this complex wine develop fully, drink it after 2019. Michael Skurnik Wines. Editors’ Choice. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $75

95 Gigi Rosso 2009 Arione (Barolo). For full review see page 3. Editors’ Choice.

abv: 14.5% Price: $49

95 Luciano Sandrone 2009 Le Vigne (Baro-lo). This is a stunning wine with intense floral

scents of iris, violet and rose layered with hints of mint and coffee. The palate is rich and vibrant, with a core of black cherry wrapped in cinnamon and spice. This is superbly balanced, elegant and structured. Enjoyable now, this will also age well. Vintus LLC. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $90

95 Luigi Oddero & Figli 2009 Barolo. This gorgeous Barolo offers a fragrance of dried rose

petal and cherry along with balsamic notes, leather and freshly turned soil. The palate delivers rich red cherry, white pepper, clove and carob nuances. It’s structured, elegant and beautifully balanced by fresh acidity and firm but elegant tannins. It will continue to develop more complexity over the next decade. —K.O. abv: NA Price: $NA

95 Paolo Scavino 2009 Bric dël Fiasc (Baro-lo). This polished and structured Barolo pres-

ents rich fruit and floral scents of black cherry, plum and rose. The dark fruit and spice flavors layered with euca-lyptus and balsamic notes are delicious. It’s still young, with bracing but ripe tannins that need to soften, but this already shows great complexity. Banville & Jones Wine Merchants. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $118

94 Brovia 2009 Ca’ Mia (Barolo). This clas-sically styled Barolo has hallmark Nebbiolo

scents of rose, violet, spice, leather and forest floor. The creamy palate delivers wild cherry flavors, layered with spice, mint, licorice and eucalyptus notes. It’s well bal-anced, fresh and structured. While it’s already enjoy-able, drink it after 2018 for more complexity. Rosenthal Wine Merchants. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $90

94 Cagliero 2009 Ravera (Barolo). This classi-cally crafted Barolo has a balsamic fragrance of

eucalyptus, thyme and bay leaf, with hints of rose and leather. The palate delivers wild cherry and mint flavors that show layers of depth. With its firm, ripe tannins and fresh acidity, this is already enjoyable, but will age well for a decade or more. —K.O. abv: NA Price: $NA

94 Comm. G. B. Burlotto 2009 Acclivi (Baro-lo). This stunning Barolo hails from the village

of Verduno. Its gorgeous floral fragrance features bal-

samic herbs and orange peel. The palate is rich but el-egant, with sweet black cherry fruit layered with spice and a hint of vanilla. It’s silky smooth already, but will gain more complexity over the next few years. Baccha-nal Wines. Editors’ Choice. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $55

94 Fratelli Alessandria 2009 Monvigliero (Barolo). From one of Barolo’s most celebrat-

ed vineyards, this elegant wine offers layers of delicious ripe cherry, cinnamon, white pepper and herb flavors. It also possesses remarkable depth and freshness for the vintage, and while it is already enjoyable, it will develop more complexity over the next decade. Multiple U.S. importers. Editors’ Choice. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $68

94 Giacomo Fenocchio 2009 Cannubi (Barolo). Even in difficult vintages like 2009

this winery produces outstanding Barolos. This has aro-mas of rosea and irises along with berries, Alpine herbs and baking spices. The palate offers a core of rich black cherry, white pepper and clove, along with firm but el-egant tannins. Drink 2015–2024. Masciarelli Wine Co. Editors’ Choice. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $60

94 Giuseppe Rinaldi 2009 Cannubi San Lo-renzo Ravera (Barolo). This traditionally

crafted Barolo presents a gorgeous bouquet of dried rose petal, violet and truffle with hints of forest floor and leather. The palate delivers juicy wild cherry and berry flavors, layered with mint and balsamic herbs and shows great depth and balance. It is loaded with finesse, and with time will develop even more complexity. Vinif-era Imports. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $120

94 Luciano Sandrone 2009 Cannubi Bos-chis (Barolo). This rich Barolo shows ripe

plum and prune, forest floor and truffle, layered with well-integrated oak, roasted coffee bean, chocolate and licorice. Reflecting the forward character of the vintage, it has very ripe, refined tannins and is already enjoyable. Vintus LLC. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $95

94 Paolo Scavino 2009 Monvigliero (Baro-lo). This elegant Barolo from Verduno’s famed

Monvigliero hill shows plenty of character. It has layers of dark cherry, white pepper, mint, spice and chocolate. This has a wonderful creamy, silky texture and is just loaded with finesse. It’s already very enjoyable. Banville & Jones Wine Merchants. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $75

94 Virna Borgogno 2009 Preda Sarmassa (Barolo). This fragrant Barolo is earthy yet

polished, with scents of berry, underbrush and leather as well as undertones of herbs and a hint of coffee. The palate delivers bright cherry flavors, notes of white pep-per, truffle and soothing mint. This is young, but already shows poise. Solstars Inc. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $50

93 Brezza 2009 Sarmassa (Barolo). This clas-sically styled Barolo from one of the denomina-

tion’s most storied houses shows archetypal Nebbiolo scents of dried rose petal, eucalyptus and hints of leath-er and berry. The palate delivers cassis and truffle notes, with layers of Alpine herbs. While tannic, the wine is surprisingly forward. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $55

93 Bruno Giacosa 2009 Le Rocche del Fal-letto (Barolo). From one of Barolo’s icon-

ic houses, this wine is more delicately structured and forward than usual but still bears Giacosa’s hallmark fi-nesse and complexity. It has mesmerizing perfumes of rose, violet, cherry, strawberry and hints of cedar. The palate shows lively cherry, mineral and spice notes, and has a smooth, silky texture. Drink now or hold 10 years for more complexity. Folio Fine Wine Partners. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $260

93 Castello di Verduno 2009 Massara (Baro-lo). This single-vineyard Barolo boasts succu-

lent dark cherry and spice, nuanced with hints of roast-ed coffee beans. It’s beautifully balanced, with silky tan-nins and fresh acidity. While already approachable, it will also age moderately well. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $83

93 Comm. G. B. Burlotto 2009 Vigneto Can-nubi (Barolo). This classic Barolo has an ex-

pressive perfume of rose, underbrush, porcini mush-room and cinnamon. The palate shows bright red cher-ry, white pepper, mint and balsamic notes, with uplift-ing mineral tones. This is still young, and needs time to open and develop. Bacchanal Wines. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $65

93 Germano Ettore 2009 Cerretta (Barolo). Located in the village of Serralunga, this is an

estate to watch. The firm’s Cerretta Barolo has a classic fragrance of rose and violet, with earthy notes of truffle and mushroom. The palate delivers ripe, delicious black cherry, white pepper and licorice, and big but round tannins. Reflecting the forward nature of the vintage, it’s enjoyable now but will improve over the next few years. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $70

93 Germano Ettore 2009 Prapò (Barolo). This single-vineyard bottling offers up a clas-

sic cherry, leather and balsamic fragrance. The creamy palate shows delicious cherry, cinnamon, spice and hint of vanilla flavor. The structured but ripe tannins need a little more time to unwind, so drink after 2017. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $70

93 Giacomo Fenocchio 2009 Bussia (Baro-lo). Claudio Fenocchio’s classically crafted

Barolos are consistently outstanding even in tough vin-tages. His flagship Bussia delivers succulent black cher-ry, truffle, leather and balsamic sensations balanced by big but fine tannins. This is already developing some complexity. Masciarelli Wine Co. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $60

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93 Giacomo Fenocchio 2009 Villero (Baro-lo). From one of Barolo’s top vineyard areas,

Fenocchio’s elegant Villero boasts a classic Nebbiolo fragrance of violet, rose, berry and spice. The palate has remarkable energy and shows great depth, with layers of intense cherry, raspberry and spice, and impeccable balance. Masciarelli Wine Co. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $60

93 Massolino 2009 Parussi (Barolo). This Barolo shows ripe black cherry and plum aro-

mas with spice undertones. The concentrated palate shows dark cherry, white pepper, mint and menthol. It has a delicious creamy texture and big, brooding tan-nins. While this will evolve nicely for the next few years, it’s a tad shy on acidity so don’t lay it down for ages. Do-maine Select Wine Estates. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $99

93 Michele Chiarlo 2009 Cannubi (Barolo). This single-vineyard Barolo from the heart

of Cannubi, the denomination’s most historic site, is poised and well-balanced. It offers an intense bouquet of violet, rose and a whiff of new leather. The palate de-livers sour cherry and spice flavors wrapped up in firm but refined tannins. Kobrand. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $NA

93 Palladino 2009 Serralunga (Barolo). This Barolo shows intense violet aromas and notes

of freshly turned soil, spice and herb. The palate of-fers succulent black cherry, hints of mint and spice, and finishes on a coffee note. It has ample depth, firm tan-nins and fresh acidity for this warm vintage. Drink after 2017. Enotec Imports, Inc. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $48

93 Paolo Manzone 2009 Meriame (Barolo). This Barolo has rather unusual scents of sage,

meat juices and balsamic herbs. The palate delivers lay-ers of cherry, black fruit, truffle, mint, spice and a hint of espresso. It has ample energy and firm, fine tannins. Drink after 2018. Quintessential Wines. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $80

93 Poderi Colla 2009 Dardi Le Rose Bussia (Barolo). This classically crafted Barolo has

wonderfully floral and earthy fragrances of rose, violet, truffle and leather. The palate shows wild cherry, white pepper and cinnamon layered with carob notes. This is young, tightly wound and shows great energy. Drink it after 2019 for more complexity. Montcalm Wine Im-porters. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $80

93 Seghesio 2009 La Villa (Barolo). This Barolo offers subdued but textbook Nebbio-

lo aromas of rose, wild cherry and truffle. The palate shows juicy wild cherry notes layered with spice and cinnamon, and it’s nicely balanced and fresh. It’s fast ap-proaching ideal drinkability so enjoy it over the next few years. de Grazia Imports LLC. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $70

92 Brezza 2009 Bricco Sarmassa (Barolo). From a vineyard at the peak of the Sarmassa

hill, this shows ripe berry and balsamic aromas and a hint of orange peel. The palate delivers juicy cherry fla-vors, mint and licorice notes, and has a firm tannic back-bone. It also shows the warmth of the vintage, so it’s best to drink in 5–10 years. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $70

92 Brovia 2009 Rocche (Barolo). This is a classic Barolo, with cherry, leather, spice and

balsamic aromas. The palate shows wild cherry, white pepper, Alpine herbs and balsamic notes. It’s elegant but still young, with structured but fine tannins. To let this fully develop, drink after 2018. Rosenthal Wine Merchants. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $90

92 Francesco Rinaldi 2009 Cannubbio (Barolo). Here’s a Barolo from the classic

school, with a multifaceted, intense fragrance of under-brush, truffle and porcini mushroom, along with whiffs of woodland berries and Alpine herbs. The palate deliv-ers delicious berry, white pepper, mint and thyme notes, along with brooding tannins that need time to unwind. Drink 2016–2024. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $80

92 Giovanni Rosso 2009 Comune di Ser-ralunga d’Alba (Barolo). This Serralunga

Barolo shows aromas of ripe—almost overripe—black-cherry, spice notes and a whiff of orange peel. The pal-ate delivers a core of juicy black cherry, white pepper, mint and menthol. While not overly complex, it’s deli-cious and well-balanced, with supple tannins. Massanois Imports. —K.O. abv: NA Price: $NA

92 Giuseppe Rinaldi 2009 Brunate Le Coste (Barolo). This traditionally crafted Baro-

lo shows earthy sensations of truffle, underbrush and leather along with delicious spice and ripe cherry fla-vors, along with uplifting mineral notes. The ripeness demonstrates the warmth of the vintage. Vinifera Im-ports. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $120

92 Guido Porro 2009 Vigna Lazzairasco (Barolo). From Serralunga, this has a clas-

sic fragrance of wild cherry, rose petal, truffle, leather and hints of menthol. The palate delivers a juicy core of black cherry, mint and spice. It has a warm midpalate and big but ripe tannins, but it’s a bit shy on acidity—typical for the vintage. Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant. —K.O. abv: NA Price: $44

92 Mauro Veglio 2009 Rocche dell’Annun-ziata (Barolo). Even in this difficult vintage

Mauro Veglio has made a beautiful Barolo from this famed vineyard in La Morra. It has a gorgeous fragrance of violet, wisteria, berry and plum, while the palate de-livers succulent dark cherries layered with spice, pastry cream and a hint of chocolate. It’s already enjoyable, so drink it now and over the next few years. Imported by T. Edward Wines and Vanguard Wines. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $80

92 Poderi Luigi Einaudi 2009 Cannubi (Barolo). This shows classic Nebbiolo aromas

of cherry, rose petal and spice, punctuated with a whiff of underbrush. The palate delivers delicious berry, spice and herb flavors with obvious mint notes. It’s elegantly structured, with ample tannins, but is still tightly knit, so best to let this soften a few more years. Empson (USA) Ltd. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $93

92 Poderi Luigi Einaudi 2009 Costa Grimaldi (Barolo). A fragrant Barolo, showing intense

rose and violet aromas with undertones of red fruits and spice. The palate delivers dense dark cherry, white pep-per and mint flavors, with a hint of vanilla. It’s long and linear but still young, with aggressive tannins that need time to mellow. Empson (USA) Ltd. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $92

91 Ciabot Berton 2009 Rocchettevino (Baro-lo). This classic Barolo reveals ripe dark fruit

and earth aromas, and hints of orange peel and herbs. The palate is still closed, but you can detect ripe fruit, spice and mint notes. It has bracing but fine tannins, and promises to open up in a few more years. Superior Wines LLC. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $65

91 Curto Marco 2009 La Foia Arborina (Barolo). This shows lovely floral aromas and

hints of chocolate and berry. The palate offers ripe black cherry, spice and coffee, and while this is still tannic, the tannins are ripe and composed. This is already drinking well, so enjoy it soon. Riahi Selections. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $70

91 Marcarini 2009 La Serra (Barolo). This single-vineyard Barolo shows balsamic aromas

of sage, eucalyptus and leather with raspberry notes. The palate delivers succulent black cherries layered with spice, mint and Alpine herbs. Reflecting the for-ward nature of the vintage, this is already drinking well. Enjoy now and over the next few years. Empson (USA) Ltd. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $60

91 Monchiero 2009 Rocche di Castiglione Falletto (Barolo). This opens with some

funky, earthy aromas that soon blow off to reveal scents of leather, truffle, eucalyptus, berry and meat juices. The palate shows dark cherry, raspberry, pipe tobacco and balsamic notes and big, ripe tannins. This reflects the forward vintage, so drink now. Scoperta Importing Co. Inc. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $40

91 Paolo Manzone 2009 Serralunga (Baro-lo). This Barolo boasts an intense fragrance of

orange peel, Alpine forest and berry. The palate has am-ple intensity and shows ripe cherry, mint, cinnamon and espresso notes. The wine is well balanced, with big but smooth tannins. Quintessential Wines. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $60

91 Paolo Scavino 2009 Bricco Ambrogio (Barolo). This fragrant Barolo has lovely floral


BUYINGGUIDEand underbrush aromas and a restrained palate showing cherry and spice. It’s tightly tannic and very nervous, needing more time to soften up. Banville & Jones Wine Merchants. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $75

91 Paolo Scavino 2009 Carobric (Barolo). This Barolo’s lovely Nebbiolo fragrance shows

violet and earthy notes of forest floor with hints of mushroom and truffle. The palate is not fully open, but shows bright cherry, menthol and white pepper notes, as well as bracing but elegant tannins. Banville & Jones Wine Merchants. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $90

91 Pecchenino 2009 Le Coste (Barolo). This classic Barolo is fermented with wild yeasts. The

fragrance is earthy and floral, suggesting truffle, leath-er and ripe berry. The palate delivers ripe wild cherries and herbs, and reflecting the vintage, this is already for-ward and enjoyable now. Vias Imports. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $60

91 Prunotto 2009 Bussia (Barolo). For full re-view see page 7.

abv: 14% Price: $82

91 Rivetto 2009 Comune di Serralunga d’Alba (Barolo). This straightforward Barolo

offers classic Nebbiolo aromas of dried rose petal, forest floor and ripe cherry. The palate delivers bright cher-ry and berry flavors, with hints of balsamic herbs and a subtle layer of carob. This is still young and tannic, but has surprising freshness for the vintage. Drink after 2015. Voliovino. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $75

90 Aurelio Settimo 2009 Barolo. This tradi-tionally crafted Barolo has a balsamic fragrance

of sage, leather and berry notes. The palate shows wild cherry and mint flavors, and bracing but ripe tannins. This is one to open soon or to enjoy over the next few years. Masciarelli Wine Co. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $49

90 Aurelio Settimo 2009 Rocche dell’Annun-ziata (Barolo). This traditionally crafted sin-

gle-vineyard Barolo shows the forward nature of the vintage but is an excellent effort, with overripe berry, truffle and forest floor aromas. The palate shows ripe black cherry, prune and spice with firm but fine tannins. This is almost ready now—enjoy it over the next few years. Masciarelli Wine Co. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $60

90 Barale Fratelli 2009 Bussia (Barolo). This traditionally styled Barolo has a classic fragrance

of violet, rose and leather, with balsamic notes. The pal-ate reveals ripe berry and spice with notes of pipe to-bacco and while the acidity is tame the wine is massively tannic. Hold this for a few more years, but drink it be-fore 2020. Chambers Street Wines. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $92

90 Barale Fratelli 2009 Castellero (Barolo). This shows enticing aromas of mint, spice and

balsamic herbs and delivers a restrained palate of black cherry, with undertones of sage, white pepper, coffee and espresso. This is still aggressively tannic and needs time to soften. Chambers Street Wines. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $82

90 Bel Colle 2009 Boscatto (Barolo). This has classic Nebbiolo aromas of truffle, underbrush

and tobacco leaf, along with a restrained but vibrant pal-ate showing bright cherry, clove and mint. It’s forward and friendly, with silky tannins, and can be enjoyed now through 2019. Premium Brands. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $NA

90 Ciabot Berton 2009 Roggeri (Barolo). This Barolo shows the forwardness of the vin-

tage—it’s delicious now. The fragrance shows ripe plum, balsamic herbs and a whiff of leather. The palate offers lush black cherry and plum flavors layered with coffee and chocolate notes and big but ripe tannins. Im-ported by Superior Wines and Specialty Cellars. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $68

90 Fratelli Alessandria 2009 Gramolere (Barolo). This single-vineyard Barolo is fra-

grant, with violet, leather and underbrush aromas. The palate shows bright red-cherry flavors and layers of cin-namon and other spices. Despite the forward nature of the vintage, this actually needs a few more years to open up. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $64

90 Negretti 2009 Barolo. This shows hallmark Nebbiolo aromas of violet, rose, earth and forest

floor. The silky palate delivers ripe black cherry and bal-samic notes, smooth tannins and just enough fresh acid-ity. This is ready now. Delectatio Wines. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $50

90 Palladino 2009 Parafada (Barolo). This single-vineyard Barolo offers a rich fragrance of

spice, berry, leather and truffle, while the palate delivers dark cherry flavors layered with mint, licorice, espresso and toasted notes. Showing the heat of the vintage, this is already a bit evolved but will drink well for the next few years. Enotec Imports, Inc. —K.O. abv: NA Price: $62

90 Pecchenino 2009 San Giuseppe (Baro-lo). This traditionally styled Barolo is loaded

with tobacco, underbrush and leather aromas. The pal-ate shows juicy wild-cherry flavors layered with spice and roasted walnut. This is tannic, but doesn’t have enough acidity for lengthy aging so enjoy it soon. Vias Imports. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $52

90 Prunotto 2009 Barolo. For full review see page 9.

abv: 13.5% Price: $48

90 Rocche Costamagna 2009 Rocche dell’-Annunziata Riserva (Barolo). This soft

Barolo shows ripe berry, orange peel and toast notes. The palate shows ripe dark fruit, spice, hints of chocolate

and firm but ripe tannins. This shows the hot, forward nature of the vintage and is already enjoyable. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $55

90 San Biagio 2009 Barolo. San Biagio’s classic Barolo shows captivating scents of violet, mint

and eucalyptus. The palate is shy at first, but opens to reveal ripe berry, plum, spice and licorice notes. This has big but round tannins, and is already forward and enjoyable. Simply Stated Wines. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $50

89 Borgogno F.lli Serio e Battista 2009 Baro-lo. Here’s a classic Barolo that shows impressive

freshness for the 2009 vintage. Bright berry and floral aromas and lip-smacking cherry-berry flavors balance firm but fine tannins. Not much complexity, but lovely finesse. Michael Skurnik Wines. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $35

89 Borgogno F.lli Serio e Battista 2009 Can-nubi (Barolo). This classic Barolo delivers a

lovely rose and violet fragrance and rich cherry flavors accompanied by hints of truffle and tobacco leaf. Still tough and tannic, this may soften a bit, but isn’t struc-tured for lengthy cellaring. Michael Skurnik Wines. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $35

89 Deltetto 2009 Sistaglia (Barolo). This Barolo shows overripe berry aromas punctuated

by orange peel, balsamic herb and toast notes. While the palate offers ripe black fruit, spice and big, round tannins, it’s somewhat evolved. Drink soon. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $50

89 Fontanafredda 2009 Serralunga d’Alba (Barolo). Here’s a straightforward Barolo with

aromas of ripe berry, meat juices and a hint of leather. The palate shows black cherry flavors layered with mint and licorice. It’s delicious, with big yet silky tannins, but there’s little complexity and it finishes a bit short. Palm Bay International. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $54

89 Grimaldi Bruna 2009 Bricco Amrogio (Barolo). At first this isn’t very expressive but

it opens in the glass to reveal berry, prune, underbrush and balsamic aromas. The palate shows sweet cherry flavors layered with coffee and espresso notes. Massa-nois Imports. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $45

89 Mario Gagliasso 2009 Torriglione (Baro-lo). This Barolo offers tobacco leaf, porcini

mushroom, roasted coffee bean and espresso aromas. The palate delivers ripe plum and coffee notes, and ripe, round tannins. This isn’t a very typical expression of Barolo, but it’s enjoyable. It’s already approachable. Drink it now and over the next few years. Kysela Père et Fils. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $60

89 Negretti 2009 Bricco Ambrogio (Barolo). This structured Barolo offers fragrances of for-

est floor, mushroom, toasted oak and a whiff of leather.

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The palate shows ripe berry, with spice notes and hints of well-integrated oak. It has bracing but ripe tannins and is a bit shy on length. Delectatio Wines. —K.O. abv: 15% Price: $65

89 Paolo Scavino 2009 Barolo. This straight Barolo shows delicate floral and cherry aromas

and a hint of underbrush. The linear palate shows re-strained red fruit and hints of spice, but it lacks the rich-ness to balance the aggressive and rather drying tannins. Banville & Jones Wine Merchants. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $50

88 Marchesi di Barolo 2009 Sarmassa (Barolo). This is an internationally-styled

Barolo, with oak-driven aromas of toasted wood and roasted coffee beans. The palate shows black fruit fla-vors layered with oak, vanilla and espresso, accompa-nied by astringent wood tannins. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $120

87 Damilano 2009 Cannubi (Barolo). This Barolo shows toasty aromas and espresso, with

underlying notes of ripe berry. Despite being aged in large casks, oak sensations dominate the palate, with coffee, toast and vanilla notes. It’s tight and very tannic, with a mouthdrying finish. Vias Imports. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $90

87 Mario Gagliasso 2009 Rocche dell’ Annunziata (Barolo). This Barolo is oaky,

with dominant sensations of toasted wood and espresso wrapped around a core of dark cherry fruit. With its big but ripe tannins, this is already approachable. Reflect-ing the hot vintage, it doesn’t have the essential fresh-ness for aging. Kysela Père et Fils. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $60

87 San Biagio 2009 Rocchettevino (Baro-lo). This wine reflects the difficult nature of

the 2009 vintage. The nose and the palate show evident oak, roasted coffee beans, chocolate and just a hint of prune, and it has aggressive, astringent tannins. As the palate lacks fruit flavor and richness, I don’t see this ag-ing well. Simply Stated Wines. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $65

87 Virna Borgogno 2009 Cannubi Boschis (Barolo). This opens with evident oak aromas

of toasted wood, espresso and coffee bean followed by underpinnings of black fruit and pepper. The palate shows ripe black fruit, espresso and oak. Although it has nice depth, the finish is cut short by by drying wood tan-nins. Solstars Inc. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $50

86 Livia Fontana 2009 Barolo. This straight-forward Barolo offers aromas of meat juices,

berry and spice. The palate delivers white pepper, clove and mint, along with cherry and a hint of vanilla. Select-ed Estates of Europe Ltd. —K.O. abv: NA Price: $NA

86 Mauro Molino 2009 Gallinotto (Barolo). This Barolo’s subdued fragrance shows cher-

ry, espresso and toasted oak. The palate is somewhat closed, but reveals black cherry, coffee, toasted oak and vanilla. It has a short finish and aggressive, astrin-gent tannins. Reflecting the hot vintage, it lacks obvious freshness. Pioneer Wine Company. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $45

85 Mauro Molino 2009 Barolo. This shows ripe prune and oak aromas and hints of burnt rub-

ber and smoke. The palate shows very ripe black fruit, espresso and a warm midpalate. This wine shows some green notes and finishes with bitter, astringent tannins. Massanois Imports. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $60

85 Parusso 2009 Mariondino (Barolo). Here’s a Barolo that harkens back to the 1990s thanks

to its aggressive oak, which was once so in vogue. It’s loaded with toasted oak, espresso and vanilla aromas, while the palate offers oak, coffee, plum and tongue-drying wood tannins. Montecastelli Selections. —K.O. abv: NA Price: $NA

85 Renato Ratti 2009 Conca (Barolo). From one of La Morra’s top producers and top vine-

yard sites, this Barolo demonstrates the difficulty of the vintage in this village. It lacks fruit richness and is dom-inated by oak-driven sensations of coffee, vanilla and chocolate. It also lacks freshness and finishes short, with drying wood tannins. Dreyfus, Ashby & Co. —K.O. abv: NA Price: $NA

85 Stroppiana 2009 Vigna San Giacomo (Barolo). This Barolo reflects the difficult 2009

vintage with its combination of overripe and green sen-sations. The palate has some dark cherry flavor, but also a green, astringent character and a warm midpalate, while the finish is bitter and drying. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $80

84 Mauro Molino 2009 Vigna Conca (Baro-lo). From the Conca vineyard in La Morra, this

Barolo shows the uneven ripening that plagued much of this village in 2009. It shows predominantly wood aro-mas of chocolate and toast, and the palate is also domi-nated by oak sensations. The fruit appears to have dried up, leaving only aggressive, astringent tannins. Massa-nois Imports. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $75

84 Mauro Molino 2009 Vigna Gancia (Baro-lo). This is dominated by oak, toasted coffee

beans and a hint of meat juices. The palate is short and finishes on a green note, with bitter wood tannins. Mas-sanois Imports. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $60

84 Stroppiana 2009 Gabutti Bussia (Baro-lo). This Barolo shows funky aromas of rubber

and animal—common for the scorching 2009 vintage in this area. Despite its core of dark cherry fruit, this is very astringent and brutally tannic, with a short finish. Don’t think this will evolve well. Superior Wine Selec-tions. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $75

84 Stroppiana 2009 Leonardo (Barolo). This Barolo shows roasted coffee notes and a whis-

per of prune, with lots of oak on top. It’s very dry, tannic and tough on the palate. Still young, but it lacks fruit flavors and balance. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $60

2008 BAROLO

97 Giacomo Fenocchio 2008 Bussia 90 Dì (Barolo). This superb single-vineyard bottling

from the heart of Bussia was macerated on the skins for a whopping 90 days. It’s a breathtaking expression of Barolo, with intense Nebbiolo scents of rose, truffle and leather. The palate shows vibrant black cherry, truffle, spice, carob, pastry cream and balsamic herb notes and has remarkable depth and complexity. This is already fantastic and will age well for decades. Masciarelli Wine Co. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $80

92 Grimaldi Bruna 2008 Badarina (Barolo). This structured Barolo opens with underbrush,

porcini mushroom, truffle and leather aromas. The palate delivers succulent black cherry flavors, balsam-ic notes and well integrated oak, The rich flavors and big tannins easily support the 15% alcohol. Drink after 2018 for more complexity. Massanois Imports. —K.O. abv: 15% Price: $55

89 Negretti 2008 Mirau (Barolo). This interest-ing Barolo is loaded with espresso sensations as

well as black fruit and spice flavors. It’s not very com-plex, but is attractive and well balanced, with big, round tannins and fresh acidity. Delectatio Wines. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $55

88 Mario Gagliasso 2008 Torriglione (Baro-lo). This has intense forest-floor aromas, a hint

of violet along and toasted oak and vanilla notes. The palate shows bright raspberry and espresso flavors, ner-vous acidity and firm tannins. It needs time, so drink after 2016. Kysela Père et Fils. —K.O. abv: NA Price: $60

87 Negretti 2008 Barolo. Lots of underbrush aromas and hints of meat juices mark the aro-

mas. The palate is rather closed, but reveals dark cherry and oak sensations of toasted coffee beans and choco-late. This has big, ripe tannins but not much complexity. Delectatio Wines. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $50

87 Stroppiana 2008 Gabutti Bussia (Baro-lo). This is loaded with underbrush sensations

of porcini mushroom and forest floor. It’s still very tight, with a markedly tannic and acidic structure that pro-vides the framework for typical Nebbiolo flavors of cherry and spice. Astringent and lean, this needs time. Drink after 2018. Superior Wine Selections. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $75

87 Stroppiana 2008 Vigna San Giacomo (Barolo). Fruit and spice aromas show dark

cherry, white pepper and toasted oak aromas of espres-


BUYINGGUIDEso and chocolate, with a hint of orange peel. The palate has fresh strawberry, coffee and citrusy notes but not much depth. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $80

85 Stroppiana 2008 Leonardo (Barolo). This Barolo is tightly wound, with aggressive tannins

and nervous acidity. It lacks complexity and richness de-spite its core of black cherry fruit. It also shows evident alcoholic warmth and finishes on a green, astringent note. —K.O. abv: 15% Price: $60

2007 BAROLO

97 Cavallotto 2007 Vignolo Riserva (Baro-lo). This is a stunning and vibrant Barolo that

defies the heat of the vintage thanks to 47-year-old vines, amazing terroir and noninvasive winemaking. It shows floral aromas of violet layered with spice and truffle, while the palate delivers rich wild cherry, mint and cinnamon. This already shows excellent complexity, but it’s still young. Drink after 2022. Michael Skurnik Wines. Editors’ Choice. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $98

95 Cavallotto 2007 Bricco Boschis Vigna San Giuseppe Riserva (Barolo). Made by

one of Castiglione Falletto’s top producers, this single-vineyard riserva has a fragrance of wild cherry, leather and truffle. The palate delivers rich black cherry and spice layered with balsamic herbs and mineral notes to produce lovely complexity and balance. It’s already deli-cious, but for more complexity drink it after 2019. Mi-chael Skurnik Wines. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $98

94 Giacomo Fenocchio 2007 Bussia Riserva (Barolo). From one of Barolo’s top traditional

producers, this riserva has a mesmerizing and balsamic fragrance of underbrush, violet, truffle and a whiff of leather. The palate is loaded with ripe black cherry fla-vors layered with herbs, spice and mint. The tannins are big and chewy, adding to the fantastic length. Masciarel-li Wine Co. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $75

94 Paolo Scavino 2007 Rocche dell’-Annunziata Riserva (Barolo). Despite the

excessively hot vintage, this is a compelling riserva from one of La Morra’s top vineyards, crafted by a master Barolo maker. The fragrance shows ripe plum and flo-ral notes, while the palate delivers ripe black fruit laced with cinnamon and Alpine herbs. With its lovely depth and balance, this is almost ready now. Banville & Jones Wine Merchants. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $200

90 Borgogno F.lli Serio e Battista 2007 Can-nubi Riserva (Barolo). This riserva from one

of Barolo’s most celebrated vineyards doesn’t disap-point, even in the scorching 2007 vintage. It delivers succulent black cherry, herb and spearmint sensations

along with brooding tannins and just enough freshness. Michael Skurnik Wines. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $60

90 Rocche Costamagna 2007 Bricco Fran-cesco Riserva (Barolo). This is an excel-

lent effort from this scalding vintage. It has a ripe berry fragrance layered with incense and orange peel, while the palate shows wild cherry, white pepper and a hint of espresso. It’s concentrated, yet balanced, and already drinking well. —K.O. abv: NA Price: $70

88 Negretti 2007 Barolo. This straight Barolo has an exotic fragrance of spice, sandalwood and

incense, while the palate shows ripe raspberry, spice and balsamic herbs. It’s tannic and shy on acidity, typical of the hot 2007 vintage. Drink now. Delectatio Wines. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $50

87 Negretti 2007 Bricco Ambrogio (Barolo). This single-vineyard Barolo is a nice effort from

the scorching 2007 vintage. While the nose is not very expressive, it does show some floral aromas, as well as espresso notes from new wood. The palate delivers ripe raspberry along with chocolate and spice, but is short on freshness and complexity. Drink now. Delectatio Wines. —K.O. abv: 15% Price: $65

87 Renzo Seghesio 2007 Pajana (Barolo). This Barolo has typical varietal aromas of rose

and a hint of leather, but shows the heat of the 2007 vin-tage in its overripe black fruit and spice accompanied by a warm midpalate. The finish is abrupt, marked by bit-ter, green tannins. Vignaioli. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $55

2006 BAROLO

91 Mario Gagliasso 2006 Riserva (Barolo). This riserva opens with aromas of underbrush,

mushroom and espresso, followed by hints of rose petal and spice. The palate reveals a core of bright red fruit layered with toasted oak and coffee notes. Still young, with bracing but refined tannins. Drink after 2016. Ky-sela Père et Fils. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $125

90 Borgogno F.lli Serio e Battista 2006 Can-nubi Riserva (Barolo). Here’s a classically

crafted Barolo with Nebbiolo’s quintessential fragrance of rose, cherry and balsamic herbs. The palate is still tightly wound but shows wild cherry and spice, with firm but fine tannins. Needs time to develop complex-ity. Best after 2015. Michael Skurnik Wines. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $60

90 Renzo Seghesio 2006 Barolo. This Barolo has an intense fragrance of rose petal, berry, in-

cense and spice. The palate is still a bit closed and very youthful, revealing black cherry, herbs and aggressive

tannins. This needs more time to develop complexity and soften up. Drink after 2016. Vignaioli. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $65

BARBARESCO

95 Cascina delle Rose 2010 Tre Stelle (Bar-baresco). This gorgeous, single-vineyard

Barbaresco has an enticing Nebbiolo perfume of for-est floor, Alpine herbs, ripe berry, truffle and a hint of leather. The palate delivers cherry notes sprinkled with spice, and shows great depth and balance. It’s elegant and already shows mesmerizing complexity. Editors’ Choice. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $60

95 Gaja 2010 Barbaresco. Gaja’s classic Bar-baresco is gorgeous in 2010, showing an intense

perfume of violet, earth and ripe red fruits punctuated by balsamic notes. The palate delivers rich wild cherry notes layered with mint, cinnamon and eucalyptus. This is structured and elegant and will develop more com-plexity over time. Drink this after 2018. Terlato Wines International. Cellar Selection. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $255

94 Adriano Marco & Vittorio 2010 Sanadaive (Barbaresco). This Barbaresco offers quint-

essential Nebbiolo aromas of red rose, leather and ber-ry along with succulent cherry and raspberry flavors lay-ered with spice, sage and Alpine herbs. It’s wonderfully balanced, with bracing but fine tannins and fresh acid-ity, and will develop additional complexity with more bottle age. Monsieur Touton Selection Ltd. Editors’ Choice. —K.O. abv: 13.5% Price: $28

94 Cascina delle Rose 2010 Rio Sordo (Bar-baresco). Cascina delle Rose is one of the de-

nomination’s brightest gems and its Rio Sordo is a text-book Barbaresco. It has an alluring and multifaceted bouquet of lilac, violet and wisteria, along with hints of spice, truffle and earth. The palate is focused, with in-tense cherry and spice notes balanced by firm but fine tannins and freshness. It already shows ample complex-ity and will age beautifully. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $50

94 Castello di Neive 2010 Santo Stefano Al-besani (Barbaresco). This single-vineyard

Barbaresco from the hallowed Santo Stefano hill shows its pedigree with alluring fragrances of violet, rose, iris and forest floor. The palate impresses with a core of ripe wild cherry and raspberry, along with notes of white pepper and cinnamon. Fresh acidity and bracing but el-egant tannins mark it as still young and primary, with a perfect structure for aging. Winebow. Cellar Selec-tion. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $65

94 Produttori del Barbaresco 2008 Vigneti in Muncagota Riserva (Barbaresco). For full


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93 Albino Rocca 2010 Duemiladieci (Bar-baresco). This elegant Barbaresco has an in-

tensely floral bouquet of rose, violet and iris, plus whiffs of sage and balsam. The palate offers juicy, wild cher-ry flavors punctuated with truffle, and balsamic notes of Alpine herbs. It’s impeccably balanced, with ample length. Editors’ Choice. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $45

93 Bel Colle 2008 Riserva (Barbaresco). This bold Barbaresco opens with aromas of truf-

fle, porcini mushroom, leather and a hint of rose pet-al. The palate delivers ripe cherry flavors layered with clove and white pepper. It’s well balanced, with elegant tannins, and while it’s delicious now, it will age well for at least a decade. Premium Brands. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $NA

93 Castello di Verduno 2010 Rabajà (Bar-baresco). This elegant but structured Bar-

baresco has a lovely and complex perfume of lilac, vio-let and underbrush. The palate expresses delicious sour cherry and black cherry flavors layered with mint, cin-namon and a hint of orange peel. This is still young and needs a few more years in bottle. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $68

93 Giuseppe Cortese 2010 Rabajà (Bar-baresco). From one of Barbaresco’s top es-

tates, this single-vineyard bottling has intensely floral and balsamic fragrances and delicious cherry-berry and spice flavors. Its tannins are firm but elegant, and while still tightly wound, this will be drinking beautifully after 2015. Winebow. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $55

93 Olek Bondonio 2010 Roncagliette (Bar-baresco). This delicious single-vineyard Bar-

baresco is loaded with juicy black-cherry and raspber-ry notes layered with mint, carob and white pepper. It has big but ripe tannins balanced by lovely acidity and a long finish. This should gain more complexity over the next few years. Tanaro River Imports LLC. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $70

93 Produttori del Barbaresco 2008 Rio Sor-do Riserva (Barbaresco). Made by what is

one of Italy’s best co-operative cellars, this riserva from the legendary Rio Sordo vineyard offers intense under-brush aromas of truffle, pine forest, leather and balsam-ic notes. The palate has a core of juicy black cherries layered with cinnamon-spice and shows plenty of depth. Drink this after 2018 to let it develop more complexity. Vias Imports. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $62

93 Rizzi 2010 Pajoré (Barbaresco). This Pa-joré bottling shows a combination of structure

and finesse. It opens with floral, earthy and balsamic aromas, while the palate expresses ripe but restrained cherry, spice and sage notes. The tannins are firm but fine, and this will gain complexity with more bottle age. David Bowler Wine. —K.O. abv: 13.5% Price: $58

93 Ugo Lequio 2010 Gallina (Barbaresco). Ugo Lequio flies below the radar but deserves

the attention of Nebbiolo lovers thanks to his consistent quality. His Gallina shows delicious wild cherry, mint and balsamic notes layered with truffle and a touch of espresso. Still very young, this will open up beautifully in a couple of years and develop even more complexity. Vino Direct. Editors’ Choice. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $30

92 Adriano Marco & Vittorio 2010 Basarin (Barbaresco). This single-vineyard Barbares-

co has both structure and elegance. The bouquet is lay-ered with forest floor, violet, rose and berry, while the palate delivers ripe cherry, white pepper, cinnamon and mint flavors. The tannins are still youthful and tight, so drink this after 2015. Monsieur Touton Selection Ltd. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $40

92 Barale Fratelli 2010 Serraboella (Bar-baresco). With its floral, fruit, spice and truf-

fle fragrances, this is an alluring Barbaresco. The palate doesn’t disappoint, thanks to juicy black-cherry flavors sprinkled with spices and Alpine herbs. The texture is silky smooth and leads to an elegant finish. Chambers Street Wines. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $58

92 Fontanabianca 2010 Serraboella (Bar-baresco). This classically crafted Barbaresco

shows earthy, floral fragrances of rose, spice, freshly tilled soil and licorice. The palate is restrained and el-egant, with wild black cherry, white pepper and mint notes all nicely balanced by firm but refined tannins. Tellitalia Imports. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $55

92 Nada Giuseppe 2010 Casot (Barbares-co). Giuseppe Nada and his son Enrico have

produced an earthy and gripping Barbaresco, with flo-ral, truffle aromas punctuated with Alpine herbs. The palate shows layers of dark cherry-berry fruit, balsamic notes of sage and mint, all backed up by a firmly tannic backbone. Best after 2016. American Northwest Dis-tributors Inc. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $30

92 Negro Angelo e Figli 2010 Cascinotta (Barbaresco). From the Basarin vineyard

area in the village of Neive, this shows power and fi-nesse in its typical Nebbiolo sensations of underbrush, floral notes and truffle. The palate has creamy dark-cherry fruit layered with spices and balsamic herbs and a long finish. It will develop fully over the next few years and should age well. The Piedmont Guy. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $50

92 Oddero 2010 Gallina (Barbaresco). This single-vineyard Barbaresco opens with toasted

oak aromas uplifted by rose and spice sensations. The palate is loaded with juicy cherry and raspberry punctu-ated by white pepper and cinnamon notes. This is very elegant, with firm but fine tannins and plenty of length. Soilair Selection. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $52

92 Poderi Colla 2010 Roncaglie (Barbares-co). This single-vineyard Barbaresco opens

with classic Nebbiolo aromas of violet, rose, spice and berry. The palate shows bright cherry and white pepper flavors and notes of menthol and eucalyptus. This is still young and tightly wound, but should age wonderfully. Montcalm Wine Importers. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $70

91 Albino Rocca 2010 Ronchi (Barbaresco). Albino Rocca’s Barbaresco Ronchi boasts lovely

violet and sage aromas sprinkled with coffee and espres-so notes. The palate shows creamy red fruit layered with chocolate and spice and firm but refined tannins. This is very elegant but still a bit shy, so best to drink it after 2014. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $60

91 Castello di Neive 2010 Gallina (Barbares-co). From one of Barbaresco’s most respected

houses, this Gallina bottling shows class and breeding in its fragrance of forest floor, porcini mushroom and tobacco. The palate is delicious, offering bright ber-ry, licorice and spice and a hint of orange peel. This is structured and refined but needs time to fully develop. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $NA

91 Rivetto 2010 Cé Vanin (Barbaresco). This shows an intriguing bouquet of violet and truf-

fle, with hints of meat juices thrown in for good mea-sure. The palate is long and linear, delivering ripe berry, mint and peppery notes. The tannins are still tight and need a few more years to soften. Voliovino. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $40

91 Tenute Cisa Asinari dei Marchesi di Gresy 2010 Martinenga (Barbaresco).

This single-vineyard Barbaresco offers underbrush and tobacco leaf aromas layered with toast, espresso and oak. The palate is succulent, featuring black cherry, lic-orice, spice and eucalyptus notes. Nicely balanced, but still young and aggressive; best after 2015. Dalla Terra Winery Direct. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $55

90 Prunotto 2010 Bric Turot (Barbaresco). For full review see page 9.

abv: 13.5% Price: $65

90 San Biagio 2010 Montersino (Barbares-co). Here’s a Barbaresco with fragrant and flo-

ral aromas of violet, rose, ripe berry and oak. The palate still needs to open up, but already shows bright cherry, strawberry and white pepper. This is vibrant, with brac-ing tannins that need time to soften. Best after 2018. Simply Stated Wines. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $50

89 Fontanabianca 2010 Bordini (Barbares-co). This Barbaresco has an unusual but ap-

pealing fragrance of incense, exotic spice and black fruit. The palate shows more classic Nebbiolo charac-ters of cherry and spice, as well as oak-driven sensations


BUYINGGUIDEof roasted coffee bean and vanilla. Tellitalia Imports. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $62

89 Punset 2008 Campo Quadro Riserva (Barbaresco). This Barbaresco Riserva offers

classic rose, leather and truffle aromas. The palate has a core of wild cherry fruit and spice undertones, but it finishes with drying wood tannins. The Artisan Collec-tion. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $40

85 Borgogno F.lli Serio e Battista 2009 Bar-baresco. This could be in a mute phase, but

this straight Barbaresco is inexpressive right now. While the nose shows hints of violet and herb, the palate re-veals only modest hints of cherry and spice. Michael Skurnik Wines. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $35

85 Montaribaldi 2010 Barbaresco. This young Barbaresco is somewhat closed, but offers floral

Nebbiolo fragrance and toasted oak. The palate shows cherry, spice and coffee notes, but also green, unripe sensations. Finishes short, with drying wood tannins. Zancanella Importing Co. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $55

85 Montaribaldi 2010 Palazzina (Barbares-co). This opens with floral and spice aromas of

violet, berry and exotic spices. The palate is austere: re-strained fruit and oak sensations accompany bitter and drying wood tannins. Zancanella Importing Co. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $35

85 Pasquale Pelissero 2010 Bricco San Gi-uliano (Barbaresco). This shows cherry aro-

mas and toasted notes of espresso. The palate is sub-dued and lean, but delivers some orange peel and ber-ry flavors, then finishes abruptly. Massanois Imports. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $40

NEBBIOLO D’ALBA

89 Bruno Giacosa 2011 Valmaggiore (Neb-biolo d’Alba). This elegant Nebbiolo d’Alba

has a lovely, bright character and heady aromas of rose petal, strawberry and mineral. The palate is vibrant and refined, offering strawberry, cherry and mineral notes. Will pair perfectly with pasta topped with porcini mush-rooms. Folio Fine Wine Partners. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $40

88 Giacomo Fenocchio 2011 Nebbiolo d’Alba. This is a quintessential expression of

young Nebbiolo, with pretty floral and strawberry notes that carry onto the palate, along with raspberry and min-eral nuances and a whiff of spice. A bright, elegant wine made to be drunk young. Masciarelli Wine Co. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $25

85 Negretti 2009 Nebbiolo d’Alba. This simple Nebbiolo retains a floral, strawberry character

but is already losing its youthful charm and freshness. Drink now. Delectatio Wines. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $25

BARBERA D’ASTI

87 Pico Maccario 2011 Tre Rovere (Barbera d’Asti Superiore). This is a pretty, well-made

Barbera with an invitingly floral and fruity bouquet. The palate shows ripe black-fruit flavors accompanied by touches of spice, coffee and chocolate. This would be perfect with grilled meats. Grape Expectations (CA). —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $25

86 Montaribaldi 2011 La Consolina (Barbera d’Asti). Here’s a simple but well-crafted Bar-

bera with earthy, fruity aromas and lush dark-fruit fla-vors uplifted by spice notes and crisp acidity. This will pair well with pastas, white meats and even fish. Zan-canella Importing Co. —K.O. abv: 13.5% Price: $15

86 Pico Maccario 2010 Epico (Barbera d’Asti Superiore). This full-bodied Barbera

has ripe black-cherry aromas nuanced with toast and coffee notes. The palate is structured, with dark fruit flavors, pepper, toasted oak and espresso notes, but the drying wood tannins result in an abrupt finish. Grape Expectations and Massanois Imports. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $45

86 Pico Maccario 2012 Lavignone (Barbera d’Asti). This is a straightforward and pleas-

ant Barbera exhibiting ripe dark-fruit flavors, spice and fresh acidity. Cries out for food, and will pair beautifully with soups, pastas and white meats. Grape Expectations and Massanois Imports. —K.O. abv: 13.5% Price: $17

BARBERA D’ALBA

90 Giacomo Fenocchio 2011 Superiore (Barbera d’Alba). This is just what a Barbera

should be: delicious, easy to drink and ready now. The palate delivers mouthfuls of black cherry, spice and lico-rice, balanced by fresh acidity and a silky-smooth tex-ture. Pair this with virtually anything. Masciarelli Wine Co. —K.O. abv: 13.5% Price: $25

89 Pecchenino 2011 Quass (Barbera d’Alba). This earthy and spicy Barbera pos-

sesses an intense fragrance of black cherry, plum, clove and herb. The palate shows ripe black cherry, raspberry, white pepper and hints of well integrated oak and roast-ed coffee beans. Vias Imports. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $28

88 Borgogno F.lli Serio e Battista 2009 Bar-bera d’Alba Superiore. A delicious, classic

Barbera with a dense core of rich black cherry and spice balanced by fresh acidity. Well made, with a long, clean

finish, this is a perfect match for barbecued meats. Mi-chael Skurnik Wines. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $20

87 Mario Gagliasso 2009 Vigna Ciabot Russ (Barbera d’Alba). This Barbera offers ripe

dark fruit, spice and earthy sensations, as well as hints of black pepper and anisette. Refreshing acidity makes this very food friendly—it would work well with pasta topped with porcini mushrooms. Kysela Père et Fils. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $28

87 Mauro Molino 2012 Barbera d’Alba. Here’s a Barbera with subtle fragrances of plum

and spice. The palate offers restrained black-cherry fla-vors along with hints of white pepper and nutmeg. Sim-ple but well made, this would pair perfectly with pasta Bolognese or mushroom dishes. Pioneer Wine Compa-ny. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $16

87 Rivetto 2010 Zio Nando (Barbera d’Alba). This Barbera offers rich black fruits, white pep-

per and anisette over a subtle layer of chocolate. Its ner-vous acidity is typical of the grape. This will get even better in a couple of years. Voliovino. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $46

86 Montaribaldi 2010 Du Gir (Barbera d’Alba). Here’s a big Barbera with an earthy

fragrance of ripe fruit, herb and spice. The palate shows lush black fruit and signs of oak aging, including cof-fee, vanilla and toasted notes. Lush fruit flavors balance crisp acidity but there’s a somewhat dry and bitter fin-ish. Zancanella Importing Co. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $25

85 Renzo Seghesio 2010 Barbera d’Alba. A dense and extracted expression of Barbera, with

concentrated black fruit and citrusy sensations as well as a funky undercurrents of animal and smoke. Vignaioli. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $28

85 Rivetto 2009 Loirano Soprano (Barbera d’Alba). This internationally-styled Barbera

shows aromas of oak, ground coffee bean and smoke as well as black fruit. While the palate is dense with ripe black-cherry, chocolate and vanilla flavors, oak domi-nates, and astringent wood tannins dry out the finish. Voliovino. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $68

85 Stroppiana 2011 Barbera d’Alba Supe-riore. This offers earthy aromas layered with

ripe black fruit and a hint of chocolate. The palate opens with succulent black-cherry, plum and white chocolate flavors, but then finishes abruptly. Drink now. L.A. Dick and Ambrosia —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $28

82 Negretti 2010 Superiore (Barbera d’Alba). This shows rustic aromas of barnyard

and wet fur combined with espresso and toast. Despite

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a dense core of black fruit, this is bitter and astringent, with an abrupt finish. Delectatio Wines. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $20

DOLCETTO D’ALBA

88 Stroppiana 2012 Dolcetto d’Alba. A bright and silky Dolcetto, this has pretty aromas of

berry, licorice and spice. The palate offers vibrant black-cherry, raspberry and anisette flavors, uplifting acidity and mineral notes. Perfect for pasta al pomodoro. L.A. Dick Imports. —K.O. abv: 13.5% Price: $16

87 Castello di Neive 2011 Basarin (Dolcet-to d’Alba). Here’s a straightforward Dolcetto

that’s loaded with black-fruit and spice aromas. The pal-ate offers black cherry, plum, pepper and licorice. This is simple, but well made and very fresh. Pair it with pas-ta and tomato sauce or tomato soups. Winebow. —K.O. abv: 13.5% Price: $22

85 Borgogno F.lli Serio e Battista 2012 Dol-cetto d’Alba. This straightforward Dolcetto

offers varietal aromas of black cherry, licorice and hints of black pepper, all of which carry over to the palate. Simple but well made. Michael Skurnik Wines. —K.O. abv: 13% Price: $15

85 Mario Gagliasso 2011 Vigna Ciabot Russ (Dolcetto d’Alba). A simple but well made

Dolcetto, with aromas of black cherry and stewed prunes followed by plum, licorice and graphite on the palate. It closes with a bitter almond note. This would work well with lasagna. Kysela Père et Fils. —K.O. abv: 13% Price: $20

DOGLIANI

90 Pecchenino 2012 San Luigi (Dogliani). For full review see page 11. Best Buy.

abv: 13.5% Price: $13

90 Pecchenino 2011 Siri d’Jermu (Dogli-ani Superiore). This single-vineyard wine

from Dogliani, the spiritual home of Dolcetto, is made with wild yeasts. It’s fragrant and structured, conclud-ing with restrained wild-cherry, spice and mineral notes that come together with flair and finesse. Vias Imports. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $18

90 Pecchenino 2010 Bricco Botti (Dogliani Superiore). Made from Dolcetto aged in large

Slavonian casks, this Dogliani Superiore is stunning. It’s loaded with delicious black-fruit flavors, licorice, white pepper and almond notes, and while it’s structured, it’s also elegant, with ample depth. This is a connoisseur’s Dolcetto. Vias Imports. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $25

LANGHE

88 Montaribaldi 2011 Gambarin Nebbiolo (Langhe). This expression of young Nebbio-

lo boasts a pretty floral and strawberry fragrance. The palate delivers bright strawberry and raspberry flavors and fresh acidity. It’s simple, yet well made, with good balance and a silky texture. Zancanella Importing Co. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $22

87 Castello di Neive 2011 I Cortini Pinot Nero (Langhe). This unusual expression of

Pinot Nero shows aromas of strawberry, dill, coffee and lightly toasted oak. The palate is linear, delivering re-strained red berry, spice, vanilla and well integrated oak. The palate is smooth if somewhat evolved, showing the forward nature of the vintage. Winebow. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $20

86 Stroppiana 2011 Nebbiolo (Langhe). This young Nebbiolo shows bright berry, spice and

smoked notes on the nose and palate, along with crisp acidity and firm but fine tannins. Simple but well-made, this would pair well with mushroom risotto. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $NA

86 Stroppiana 2011 Rosso (Langhe). This blend of Nebbiolo and Barbera has dark fruit

and floral aromas, but they’re dominated by toasted oak and espresso notes. The palate offers dense and dark fruit flavors framed by obvious wood sensations of cof-fee and oak. Bright finish. L.A. Dick Imports. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $18

WHITE WINES

90 Giacomo Fenocchio 2012 Roero Arneis. Crafted by one of Barolo’s finest producers, this

Arneis rocks. It’s loaded with creamy Granny Smith and mineral sensations, accompanied by hints of Alpine herbs. The palate is structured but restrained, with a long, quenching finish. Masciarelli Wine Co. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $25

89 Montaribaldi 2012 Capural (Roero Ar-neis). This lovely expression of Arneis has

an enticing floral and fruit fragrance. The palate is medium- bodied and fresh, with creamy green-apple and exotic fruit sensations. This is perfect with insalata Caprese or fish dishes. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $16

87 Pico Maccario 2012 Estrosa (Monferrato Bianco). This blend of Chardonnay and Sauvi-

gnon delivers pretty floral and white-fruit aromas, while the long and linear palate shows restrained fruit flavors punctuated by pear and a hint of mineral. —K.O. abv: 12.5% Price: $17

BORDEAUX

MÉDOC

90 Château de Panigon 2011 Médoc. This structured, fruity wine has a core of dense tan-

nins. The firm smokiness from wood marries well with the blackberry fruit and tight acidity. Well balanced, and likely to age well for 4–6 years. Fruit of the Vines, Inc. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $20

90 Château la Tour de By 2010 Médoc. New wood aromas come through strongly in this

firm, solid wine. The wood is a prominent element, giv-ing spice and a burnt edge. Under this is ripe fruit char-acter—black currants and berries that need another 3–5 years to show their best. The Wine Frog. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $20

89 Jean-Michel Cazes 2011 Réserve (Mé-doc). A rich, sweetly fruity wine, its ripe black

plum fruit balanced by fine acidity and layered with wood. It is a solid and dense wine, firm and with great juiciness. Likely to age well for 4–5 years. Palm Bay In-ternational. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $20

88 Château Lacombe Noaillac 2011 Médoc. Rich and fruity, this wine shows black currant

fruit along with a firm, dry and tannic core. This youth-ful balance is finished with a polish of new wood and fine acidity. Pierre Courdurie Selections/Wine Partners. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $18

87 Domaines Lapalu 2011 La Patache (Mé-doc). This has firm tannins certainly, but also

a fine underlying fruitiness, showing the potential of black currant and red berry fruit. It feels solid, concen-trated and possesses very good potential. Pierre Cour-durie Selections/Wine Partners. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $12

HAUT-MÉDOC

92 Château Lamothe-Cissac 2011 Vieilles Vignes (Haut-Médoc). Firm and bold, this is

a solid wine. Its tannins and ripe berry fruit are upfront, the acidity and fresh character of the vintage in the background. Powered by a dry core, this is a wine that could do with at least five years’ aging. Deutsch Family Wine & Spirits. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $39

91 Château la Tonnelle 2011 Haut-Médoc. Mint aromas and new wood flavors mark this

smoothly ripe, polished wine. It has a good amount of black fruit, a dry but open texture and a rich, smoky character. The tannins and generous fruit power the wine forward. Deutsch Family Wine & Spirits. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $20


BUYINGGUIDE

91 Château Landat 2011 Vieilles Vignes (Haut-Médoc). Dry and serious, this firm

wine is classic Bordeaux. It has weight, a core of tan-nins and black currant fruitiness that needs time to fully integrate with the dense structure. Give this exemplary wine another five years. Deutsch Family Wine & Spir-its. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $25

90 Château Semonlon 2011 Haut-Médoc. A concentrated wine, juicy and rich in fruit, with

ripe blackberries and attractive acidity. There is some weight along with the fruitiness and tannins in harmony with the fruit. Worth aging for 3–5 years. Scott Levy Selection. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $19

89 Château Larose-Trintaudon 2011 Haut-Médoc. This exotic, spicy wine’s wood flavors

give it a lively character. This is a medium-bodied wine, not heavy in any sense, its fruitiness and attractive acid-ity producing a wine that will soon be ready to drink. Monsieur Touton Selection Ltd. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $20

88 Château Haut Bages Libéral 2011 Haut-Médoc de Haut Bages Libéral (Haut-Mé-

doc). Big, rich and bold, this is a finely concentrated wine that’s marked by the freshness of the year. It’s like-ly to develop quickly and be ready next year. Fruit of the Vines, Inc. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $20

88 Château Lamothe-Cissac 2011 Haut-Mé-doc. Sweet fruit dominates this attractive, spicy

wine. It has ample acidity, giving a fine, fresh black- currant character and tannins that are already melding into the wine. For medium-term aging of 3–5 years. Deutsch Family Wine & Spirits. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $26

88 Château le Chêne 2011 Haut-Médoc. A complex wine, firm and concentrated, with

tannins dominating the fruit. It has great depth of fla-vor, a ripeness that promises the black fruits will come through. As it integrates over the next 3–5 years, it will become a fine wine. USA Wine West. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $14

87 Château Laride 2011 L’Iris de Laride Vieilles Vignes (Haut-Médoc). A spicy

wine, with nutmeg and allspice as well as peppered plums. Against this exotic background, the tannins are solid and concentrated, suggesting good aging potential. USA Wine West. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $22

86 Château Landat 2011 Haut-Médoc. This is dark and firm, with sufficient fruit to prom-

ise a rich future. The wine has ample weight, a solid, dense core and a juicy outer layer. Good for 3–5 years. Deutsch Family Wine & Spirits. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $18

85 Château Fonsèche 2011 Haut-Médoc. This richly fruity wine is attractively balanced,

showing ample acidity, black currant fruit and a general forward fruitiness. It’s not a wine of great depth. Ready to drink now. Deutsch Family Wine & Spirits. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $16

84 Château Lanessan 2011 Haut-Médoc. An austere wine, serious and densely dry. It has

some weight and a firm center, with the fruit lagging behind the structure. This is always likely to be tannic. BNP Distributing. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $18

83 Château du Retout 2011 Haut-Médoc. A very juicy wine that shows overripe fruit and an

herbal character. It’s soft, fruity without great defini-tion and likely to develop quickly. Total Wine & More. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $18

83 Château Laride 2011 Haut-Médoc. Juicy but not quite ripe, this is a green and herbal

wine that is not worth aging. Drink it over the next few years. USA Wine West. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $18

CÔTES DU BOURG

90 Château Peugeais 2011 Côtes de Bourg. Ripe and fruity, this is a finely balanced, already

delicious wine. The tannins promise some aging poten-tial, bringing a dry core to the rich blackberry fruit. It’s firm, yet layered with fine juiciness. A forward wine that will still develop well. Vintage Trading Inc. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $13

89 Château le Piat 2011 Côtes de Bourg. This rich, wood-laden wine is balanced by ripe

red plum and blackberry fruit. It is a solid effort, its ripe fruit laced with attractive, fresh acidity. Generous and dense. Vintage Trading Inc. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

87 Château les Mottes Pradier 2011 Côtes de Bourg. Solid and tannic, very firm from the

opening to the finish. It is based around a dark core of wood and spice as well as more juicy fruit flavors. The wine needs time to round out and bring more of the juiciness to the fore. Vintage Trading Inc. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $13

87 Clos des Moiselles 2011 Côtes de Bourg. This perfumed wine, with ripe soft fruits, is full

in the mouth. The black fruit flavors are sustained by the firm tannins and juiciness. A wine for the medium-term: 2–4 years. Casa Torelli. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $18

86 Château Haut-Pradier 2011 Côtes de Bourg. Mint and new wood aromas are fol-

lowed by a wine that shows plenty of oak. The juici-ness comes from the wood tannins as much as the fruit, which is overwhelmed at this young stage. Keep for at least four years. Vintage Trading Inc. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $26

85 Closerie du Bailli 2011 Côtes de Bourg. Firm and dry, dark and dense, this wine has in-

tense concentration and hard tannins. It feels heavily extracted, giving a bitter, burnt edge. The aftertaste just hints at potential juiciness. Vintage Trading Inc. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $15

84 Château Fleur de Plaisance 2011 Côtes de Bourg. This juicy wine’s considerable acid-

ity gives freshness and a less pleasant lemon flavor that cuts into the ripe black currant fruit. Herbs and dry tan-nins at the end suggest an underripe character. Vintage Trading Inc. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

83 Château Noblet 2011 Côtes de Bourg. Very dry and with too much wood, this is an

attenuated wine with a hard facade. It doesn’t offer enough fruit for the future. Vintage Trading Inc. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $14

BLAYE CÔTES DE BORDEAUX

91 Château Mayne Guyon 2011 Blaye Côtes de Bordeaux. This rich and integrated wine is

full of ripe berry fruit and firm tannins. It is a full, con-centrated wine, densely textured and structured. There is a good sense of juiciness behind the youthful, firm surface. Give this fine, great-value wine at least four years. Plume Ridge Negociants. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $11

90 Château La Roche Bazin 2011 Blaye Côtes de Bordeaux. A rich, bold wine full

of wood flavors that are already well integrated with the ripe fruit and solid tannins. The wine is dense, while having a surface polish of smooth fruitiness. Give the wine 3–5 years. Five Grapes. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $10

89 Château Glorit 2011 Blaye Côtes de Bor-deaux. High amounts of new wood hit both the

aromas and the structure of the wine. It has firm weight, dry, smoky tannins and a bitter-chocolate character. It’s very dense and very dry, although with the potential to soften and reveal more attractive, juicy fruit. Vintage Trading Inc. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $25

88 Château Monconseil-Gazin 2011 Blaye Côtes de Bordeaux. Ripe and sweetly fruity,

this is a black-currant and berry-flavored wine, with bal-anced juiciness and a judicious use of wood. Full-bod-ied, it’s likely to age well over the medium term. Jeff Wellburn Selections. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $18

87 Château la Croix Saint-Pierre 2011 Grande Réserve (Blaye Côtes de Bor-

deaux). Ripe and spicy, this is a rich, full-bodied wine packed with sweet blackberry fruit as well as bitter lico-

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rice. It shows very good potential for the next 4–5 years. Wines & Beyond Import. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $20

87 Château Seguin 2011 Blaye Côtes de Bordeaux. Firm and tannic, but it promises

a ripe, fruity future. It’s dense and concentrated, with blackberry fruit giving it a full, ripe character. Age 4–6 years. Vintage Trading Inc. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $18

86 Château la Croix Saint-Pierre 2011 Blaye Côtes de Bordeaux. With ample acidity and

juicy black fruit, this is a light, refreshing, already fra-grant wine. It’s bright and lively, just hinting at black chocolate and blackberry fruit. Wines & Beyond Im-port. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $15

85 Château des Tourtes 2011 Le Duo (Blaye Côtes de Bordeaux). This balanced, juicy,

fruity wine has refreshing red-berry fruit as well as solid tannins to back it up. An already attractive wine, this fruity number is likely to age quickly. Island Distribut-ing. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $10

85 Château la Petite Roque 2011 Blaye Côtes de Bordeaux. An attractive, fruity

wine with black-currant and red-berry juiciness fol-lowed by a lightly tannic character. It’s a classic for the vintage—light and fruity. Patagonia Wine & Imports, LLC. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $14

84 Château Segonzac 2011 Vieilles Vignes (Blaye Côtes de Bordeaux). This smoky

wine shows an herbal character. Juicy fruitiness re-veals fresh red-berry fruit along with some bitterness that needs a couple of years to soften. LVDH USA Inc. —R.V. abv: 15% Price: $NA

84 Philippe Raguenot 2011 Tradition (Blaye Côtes de Bordeaux). A firm, licorice-

flavored wine, with bitter notes and a peppery character that shows through the fruit. It feels extracted and hot. Campbell Imports. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $16

83 Château des Tourtes 2011 Classic (Blaye Côtes de Bordeaux). This soapy, unfocused

wine has tannins and red berry fruit but little structure. The fruit shows a green streak that will not improve. Is-land Distributing. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $15

CADILLAC CÔTES DE BORDEAUX

91 Château La Rame 2011 La Charrulle (Ca-dillac Côtes de Bordeaux). Ripe fruit, new

wood flavors and a rounded character give this struc-tured and textured wine a fine sense of shape. It has

weight, richness and a well balanced texture. Age it for four years. Rosenthal Wine Merchants. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $20

88 Château Tanesse 2011 Cadillac Côtes de Bordeaux. Dense and concentrated and still

very young, the wine has ripe blackberry flavors, a sense of ripeness and a dry wood-and-tannin core. Give the wine at least 4–5 years. Serge Doré Selections. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $18

87 Château de Lestiac 2011 Cadillac Côtes de Bordeaux. Under the serious amount

of wood, this wine feels rich and concentrated. Wood spice, a touch burnt, along with chocolate and black currant fruit show both extraction and the need for 2–3 years’ aging. Serge Doré Selections. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $20

85 Château de Marsan 2011 Cadillac Côtes de Bordeaux. A fragrant, fruity wine, with

fruit tannins, just a hint of wood and tight black-currant fruit. This is a dry wine, firm at the center and needing a year to round out. Exclusive Wine Imports. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $19

SAINT-ÉMILION AND SATELLITES

88 Château Rocher Calon 2011 Montagne-Saint-Émilion. Ripe and fruity, this is already a

delicious wine. It has blackberry fruit, sweet tannins and acidity that percolates through the ripe texture. Gen-erous and open, it is almost ready to drink. Scott Levy Selection. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $20

87 Château Macquin 2011 Saint-Georges-Saint-Émilion. Ripe fruit, sweet tannins and

soft texture mark this wine. It’s full, ripe and lightly structured. An attractive wine for its black fruit and for-ward character. Drink in 2–4 years. Fruit of the Vines, Inc. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $20

86 Château Dubourg 2011 Saint-Émilion. Soft and juicy, here is a wine with a generous

and fruity nature. It has attractive acidity, soft fruitiness and some spice. Fruity, it should be ready to drink in 2–3 years. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $19

BORDEAUX SUPÉRIEUR

91 Château de Seguin 2011 Cuvée Prestige (Bordeaux Supérieur). This balanced, ripe

and full-bodied wine has good concentration and fine tannins that come from the wood aging and the juicy black fruit. It’s an impressive wine, for aging 4–6 years. Plume Ridge Negociants. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $15

91 Château Rousset-Caillau 2011 Bordeaux Supérieur. Firm and concentrated, this wine

has ample weight and aging potential. Dry tannins are balanced by ripe berry fruit, juicy acidity and solid structure. Give this dense wine at least five years. House of Burgundy. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $15

90 Château Barreyre 2011 Bordeaux Supéri-eur. This is a structured wine, with solid tannins

and ample woody flavors. But it has the fruit weight to sustain the structure, offering a wine that promises good aging as well as short-term attractive fruitiness. Michael Corso Selections. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $20

90 Château Darzac 2011 Heritage (Bor-deaux Supérieur). This wine shows extrac-

tion, new wood and firm tannins. What it also has is the fruit weight to sustain all this. Given 4–5 years, the wine’s richness and smoky flavors will come together with the black currant fruit. DM Vineyards & Partners. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $20

90 Château de Parenchère 2011 Esprit de Parenchère (Bordeaux Supérieur). Old

vines are the core of this concentrated wine. It is pow-erful and weighty, a dense mass of blackberry fruit, dark chocolate and spice from large amounts of new wood aging. It’s definitely a wine that makes a statement. Age for 4–5 years. Stacole Fine Wines. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $NA

90 Château la Croix de Roche 2011 Bor-deaux Supérieur. Mint flavors reflect the new

wood aging in this smooth, ripe wine. It has a fine struc-ture, ample acidity and blackberry fruit. This textured, structured wine is ready for 4–6 years of aging. Misa Imports. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $15

89 Château de Nardon 2011 Bordeaux Su-périeur. Ripe and fruity, this is a wine made for

drinking soon. It has ripe black-plum fruit, structured tannins and a juicy and smoky character that is already delicious. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $18

89 Château de Parenchère 2010 Cuvée Raphaël (Bordeaux Supérieur). For Bor-

deaux, this is a plump, cushioned wine that brings out rich fruit, chocolate sauce and ample spice. The struc-ture is there, with tannins and a dry core, but it’s the soft, generous fruit that is more prominent. Stacole Fine Wines. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $NA

88 Chateau de Launay 2011 Château Du-bory (Bordeaux Supérieur). There is fine

acidity here, black currant fruit and firm tannins. The combination works well, giving fruitiness and structure. The result is a wine with aging potential, freshness and an attractive, juicy aftertaste. Joanne Bordeaux USA. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $17


BUYINGGUIDE

88 Château de Lisennes 2011 Cuvée Tradi-tion (Bordeaux Supérieur). This bold, fruity

wine is all red berries and ripe cherry flavors. It has good juiciness, soft tannins and it will be ready to drink soon. A bright wine, with great acidity at the end. Grape News Importing. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $14

88 Château de Parenchère 2011 Cuvée Raphaël (Bordeaux Supérieur). A strong-

ly wood-aged wine, firm, spicy and with a burnt edge. Chocolate and black plum-skin fruit combine in this strongly tannic wine. There is, though, a smooth ele-ment from the ripe Merlot in the blend, giving potential richness in 2–3 years. Stacole Fine Wines. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $NA

88 Château Plaisance 2011 Bordeaux Su-périeur. While the wine has firm tannins, it

also has great fruit. A rich structure is balanced by sweet black-plum and berry fruit to give a wine with fine aging potential. Michael Corso Selections. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $24

87 Château de la Vieille Tour 2011 Bordeaux Supérieur. A bright, black-currant-flavored

wine, very fruity and with attractive acidity. The wine is juicy and crisp, showing the freshness of the vintage. Not for long aging, but it’s certainly attractive now. Wine Traditions. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $14

87 Château Jalousie Beaulieu 2011 Bor-deaux Supérieur. A firm wine with enough

fruitiness to suggest potential. It has pleasurable red-berry fruit, ample acidity and tannin, with the promise of medium-term aging Victoire Imports. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $15

87 Château Latour-Laguens 2011 Cuvée Bacchus (Bordeaux Supérieur). This

smoky, ripe wine is attractively balanced, showing the freshness of the vintage. There is a pleasant touch of wood, along with black-currant fruitiness and the po-tential to age for 3–5 years. OSWinestrade. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $NA

87 Château Lescalle 2011 Bordeaux Su-périeur. Dark tannins are balanced by pleas-

ant black currant flavors. The wine has ample weight, while preserving freshness and bright acidity. Give it 2–3 years, when this structured and fruity wine will be ready. Monsieur Touton Selection Ltd. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $12

87 Pezat 2011 Bordeaux Supérieur. Dense planting for this vineyard has resulted in a

wine that has greater concentration than in the past. The wine has firm tannins, while showing already deli-cious black-currant fruit. For drinking over the next 2–4 years. World’s End LLC. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $17

86 Château Darzac 2011 Réserve (Bordeaux Supérieur). This firmly tannic wine boasts

a solid structure and bitter-chocolate extraction. The

wine has plenty of weight and juiciness from fruit, it just needs several years to come together. DM Vineyards & Partners. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $13

86 Château de Parenchère 2011 Bordeaux Supérieur. Dry, structured and tannic, the

wine has some of the juicy fruit of the year and as much of the vintage’s leaner, more austere character. It has edges of wood aging and firm tannins, but the fruit needs another year or two to show through. Stacole Fine Wines. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $NA

86 Château Ducla 2011 Bordeaux Supérieur. A dark, extracted wine, taking its time to reveal

the fruit that is lurking at the back, promising rich black fruit in 3–4 years. Pasternak Wine Imports. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $13

86 Château Laronde Désormes 2011 Bor-deaux Supérieur. A firm wine, full of solid

tannins and powerful fruit. There’s just a touch of smo-kiness here, giving complexity to a wine that has weight and richness as well as blackberry fruit. It needs 3–5 years. Michael Corso Selections. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $23

86 Château Moncabrier 2011 Bordeaux Su-périeur. This rich but tannic wine shows ripe

fruitiness as well as dense structure. There is a good bal-ance between juiciness and dryness in this wine, which is already developing well. Vintus LLC. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $13

85 Château Gamage 2011 Selection Excep-tionelle (Bordeaux Supérieur). Ripe fruit

suggests a wine that is soft, juicy and unlikely to age for long. It has red berry flavors, attractive tannins and fine finishing acidity. Heidelberg Distribution. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $22

85 Château la France 2011 Cuvée Gallus (Bordeaux Supérieur). This concentrated

wine is heavy on the tannins and too light on the fruit. It has power, wood-aging richness and perhaps the po-tential to soften and round out after 4–5 years. Plume Ridge Negociants. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $15

85 Kirkland Signature 2011 Bordeaux Su-périeur. Ripe fruit dominates this forward,

fruity wine. Caramel and blackberry flavors and firm tannins combine to make a wine that is almost ready to drink. Misa Imports. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $11

84 Château de Camarsac 2011 Vieilles Vignes (Bordeaux Supérieur). A solid and

concentrated wine, with burnt wood, bitter extraction and only a hint of blackberry fruit for the long term. Fruit of the Vines, Inc. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $15

83 Château Croix de Gentis 2011 Bordeaux Supérieur. This dark, extracted wine is firm in

character. It has bitter coffee and licorice flavors, which rather elbow aside the fruit. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $9

83 Château Penin 2011 Les Cailloux (Bor-deaux Supérieur). Hard and extracted, this

wine shows little more than tannins. The fruitiness is hard to discern and may never come through. Spec’s. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $20

83 Domaine du Claouset 2011 Réserve (Bordeaux Supérieur). A hard and tannic

wine, with too much dryness for pleasure. It’s not likely to soften enough to balance out. Regal Wine Imports Inc. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $15

81 Château Bellevue Favereau 2011 Bor-deaux Supérieur. A southern yet herbal-

feeling wine, this is ripe—maybe overripe—and missing real structure or fruitiness. Misa Imports. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $10

BORDEAUX

90 Château Peynaud-Bagnac 2011 Bor-deaux. A dry, firm wine, full of its tannins. The

juiciness underneath promises black currant brightness in six months to a year. With ample acidity and a fine sense of structure, this wine is concentrated and rich. Kalara Import. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $12

90 Château Roc de Ségur 2011 Bordeaux. This ripe, smoky, wood-aged wine shows ample

fruit as well as solid tannins. The wine has richness and spice, the wood well balanced by black plum and final juiciness. MS Walker. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $NA

89 Château la Chapelle Maillard 2011 Bor-deaux. This ripe, concentrated wine is full of

tannins and ripe blackberry fruit. It is still youthfully dry, but shows the potential to develop for 3–5 years. Fruit of the Vines, Inc. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $13

89 Château Rauzan Despagne 2011 Bor-deaux. This is a bright, ripe wine. It has a sense

of lightness, attractive acidity and black currant flavors. This delicious, juicy wine will be ready to drink in an-other few months. Grantham Distributing. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $15

88 Château Bel Air Perponcher 2011 Bor-deaux. Tight and firm, this wine’s herbal char-

acter and black currant fruit bring out the dry character of the wine and intense acidity on the finish. Fruit of the Vines, Inc. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $15

88 Château La Rame 2011 Bordeaux. Very dry, this wine is firmly tannic, with the potential

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for great swathes of juicy fruitiness. It’s currently de-veloping beyond its youthful dryness and just beginning to reveal black-currant fruit. Give it another 2–3 years. Rosenthal Wine Merchants. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $16

88 Château Tour de Mirambeau 2011 Bor-deaux. Bright and fruity, this wine has fine

acidity, which balances the firm tannins. The whole wine feels juicy, packed with forward fruit and having a lively character. Drink now. Fruit of the Vines, Inc. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $16

87 Château Arnaucosse 2011 Bordeaux. A rich, smooth wine, all ripe black fruit and soft

tannins. It has weight and depth, but is ready to drink now. International Spirits & Wines, LLC. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $15

87 Château Belrose 2011 Bordeaux. This solid, structured wine has black currant fruit,

balanced acidity and firm tannins. The wine has a solid texture, a core of dryness and the potential to age 3–4 years. Fruit of the Vines, Inc. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $12

87 Château de Camarsac 2011 Classique (Bordeaux). Balanced by ample acidity and

bright black-currant fruit, this is a wine with some spice and firm tannins. Drink in the next 3–4 years. Fruit of the Vines, Inc. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 12% Price: $12

87 Château de Fontenille 2011 Bordeaux. A soft, rich wine, spiced with light wood. Fine

blackberry fruit, soft tannins and attractive acidity are all well in balance. The wine has a fresh, juicy finish. Pierre Courdurie Selections/Wine Partners. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $14

87 Château Grand Billard 2011 Bordeaux. Fine, rich black-fruit flavors give this wine a

sense of ripeness, openness and generosity. The wood and fruit balance is already fine, showing that it will be ready to drink this year. Kalara Import. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $18

87 Château Maison Noble 2011 Bordeaux. This new-wood-dominated wine is ripe, but

full of caramel and mint flavors. The fruit is more dis-creet, just hinting at blackberry richness. The potential to achieve balance in six months is all here. Jassal Liquor Distributors. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $15

87 Château Tour de Luchey 2011 Bordeaux. A very dry wine, which shows its bitter extrac-

tion while also promising plenty of fruit. Chocolate and coffee vie with juicy blackberry fruit and lively acidity. Keep for 2–3 years. Tenzing Wine and Spirits. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA

87 Croix de Marsan 2011 Bordeaux. A firm wine, solid with tannins and lean fruit. It has

medium concentration, a dry core and potential that

will be revealed over the next two years. Good, juicy acidity comes through at the end. Misa Imports. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $13

86 Château Buisson-Redon 2011 Bordeaux. Firm and closed, young and tannic, this is a

wine that definitely needs time. For the moment, the fruit is still waiting underneath the dry exterior. Give it 3–4 years. Vinum Wine Importing and Distributing LLC. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $12

86 Château Grand Marchand 2011 Bor-deaux. This firm wine has black-currant and

red-plum fruit, nicely integrated with the dry core. Ready to drink, although capable of aging a year or two. Kalara Import. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $15

86 Jean-Michel Cazes 2011 Michel Lynch Bio (Bordeaux). Mint and eucalyptus flavors

show strongly in this wood-aged, polished, smoky wine. The fruit suggests black plums, damsons and berries. Give the wine 3–4 years. Palm Bay International. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $11

85 Château de Bordeneuve 2011 Bordeaux. There is a smooth, wood-aged character to this

wine, along with attendant firm tannins. Chocolate and black fruit show extraction and bring some bitterness. Austere at the moment, this wine needs time. Fruit of the Vines, Inc. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $NA

85 Château des Judes 2011 Bordeaux. This dry, firm wine shows a hint of bitter extraction,

but the core of the wine is smooth. Give it several years’ aging. Fine Vines. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $10

85 Jean-Michel Cazes 2011 Michel Lynch Merlot (Bordeaux). This solidly tannic wine

is largely balanced by ample fruit. Perfumed and smoky, but with its dry wood and firm, extracted tannins, it is likely always to be a dry wine. Palm Bay International. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $13

84 Château de la Bouyère 2011 Bordeaux. A firm, dry wine with good fruit, featuring touches

of blackberry along with a solid tannic core. It’s a wine for the medium-term, say 2–4 years. Slocum & Sons, Inc. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $9

84 Château de Lagarde 2012 Cuvée Nature Merlot (Bordeaux). This wine’s bright purple

fruit tastes as if the fermentation has only just stopped. Jammy red berries are laced with some tannins, and acidity freshens the wine, only spoilt by a slight oxida-tive edge. Natural Merchants LLC. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $15

84 Château le Mayne Turon 2011 Bordeaux. A solid wine, full of dried fruits, dense plums

and firm tannins. It has fresh acidity, bright juiciness that will come through more strongly over the next few months. Kalara Import. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $8

84 Château Roc de Minvielle 2011 Bor-deaux. Despite a dry base, the wine is full of

fruity acidity, lively tannins and solid potential. Give this wine 2–4 years and it will be well balanced. LVC Las Vegas Inc. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $NA

84 Château Roustaing 2011 Bordeaux. Light and already fruity, this wine features attractive

black-currant flavors, bright acidity and soft tannins. Ready to drink. The Country Vintner-Craft and Estate. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $15

84 Domaines Barons de Rothschild (Lafite) 2011 Réserve Spéciale (Bordeaux). This

wood-aged wine bases its smooth character on firm tan-nins as much as fruit. It has concentration, firm extrac-tion and a hard edge. Pasternak Wine Imports. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $18

84 Vinum Natura 2011 Bordeaux. A balanced wine, showing attractive fruitiness, ripe black

currants and soft tannins. It’s likely to be ready to drink soon. The Biz Jar. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $20

82 Château Haut Maginet 2011 Bordeaux. Overripe fruit makes this wine, which is light

and fruity, with little structure. The Country Vintner-Craft and Estate. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $12

OTHER RED BORDEAUX

91 Château Mayne Vieil 2011 Fronsac. This opulent wine is full of ripe tannins and soft fruit.

It is powered by its spiciness, just the right amount of wood and a layer of acidity. Finely structured, it’s worth aging for the next 3–4 years. Vinum Wine Importing and Distributing LLC. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $16

90 Château Mayne Vieil 2011 Cuvée Aliénor (Fronsac). Spice and ripe fruit, with attractive

tannins and a soft texture. This wine is open, generous, rich and packed with black currant fruitiness. Give this wine another 2–4 years, but it could well be drinkable sooner. Vinum Wine Importing and Distributing LLC. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $20

89 Château Haut-Vigneau 2011 Pessac-Léognan. Firm and tannic, this is a wine that

offers good fruit along with its dark exterior. It has a smoky character, while the dark black fruit promises to give the wine a lift into the next 4–6 years. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $20


BUYINGGUIDE

88 Château Coquillas 2011 Pessac-Léog-nan. Made by the same team as Château de

France in Pessac-Léognan, this is an attractive, forward wine. It shows the juicy character of the vintage, al-though the tannins do give it structure and some weight. A wine for medium-term aging: 4–5 years. Jeff Well-burn Selections. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $35

87 Château Biston 2011 Moulis-en-Médoc. Spicy and soft, this is an easy wine, fruity and

showing the freshness of the vintage. It does have a background of smoky tannins that balance the fruitiness of the wine. Cynthia Hurley Wine Imports. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $18

86 Château Garraud 2011 Lalande de Pomerol. A ripe, full-in-the-mouth wine,

densely packed with open, rich fruits. Dominated by juicy Merlot, it’s a wine for medium-term aging. Saranty Imports. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $19

86 Vieux Château Gaubert 2011 Benjamin de Vieux Château Gaubert (Graves).

Rough around the edges, this is a dry and tannic wine. It has mint, red currant fruit and a dry center. It needs a year or two, but is likely to remain rustic. DS Trading Co. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $18

84 Château de Respide 2011 Graves. Solid, dark and extracted, this hard-edged wine has

too many tannins and not quite enough fruit. Cav a’Vin. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $18

84 Château la Haye 2011 Fief de la Haye (Saint-Estèphe). Light and fruity, this shows

attractive red fruit, ample tannins and acidity. An earthy character to the wine is less pleasant. Baeza Wine Con-nection. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $19

ROSÉ

85 Château Perenne 2012 Rosé (Bordeaux). An attractively fruity wine—fragrant, fresh and

with a touch of tannin. Raspberry flavors give the wine a good lift. Drink it this year. MHW, Ltd. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $12

WHITE BORDEAUX

94 Château de France 2011 Blanc (Pessac-Léognan). A beautiful wine: the subtle wood

aging points up the rich pear and apricot fruit. It has richness and a fine balance between fruit, structure and the elegant acidity that lifts the wine. It’s still young and will be best after at least 4–5 years of aging. Jeff Well-burn Selections. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $50

91 Château Monbousquet 2004 Bordeaux Blanc. This rare white wine from a vineyard

in Saint-Emilion is produced by Gérard Perse of Châ-teau Pavie. Now mature, this ripe, bitter-almond and spice flavored wine shows a touch of scorched wood. As a contrast, there is a rich, almost buttery character that gives the wine a full texture. Ready to drink. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA

87 Château de Fontenille 2012 Entre-Deux-Mers. Rich and fruity, this wine shows warm

white fruit and a touch of spice. The wine is soft, its cur-rant and pink grapefruit flavors lifted by acidity but with a rounded finish. Pierre Courdurie Selections/Wine Partners. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $14

87 Dourthe 2012 La Grand Cuvée Sauvi-gnon Blanc (Bordeaux Blanc). This fresh,

fruity and herbaceous wine has a delicious, creamy tex-ture, citrus flavors and lively acidity. Fine as an apéritif or with shellfish. Dourthe USA. —R.V. abv: 12% Price: $NA

86 Pezat 2012 Sauvignon Blanc (Bordeaux Blanc). A cool, very Sauvignon wine, with

strong herbaceous and citrus flavors. It’s crisp, show-ing a bright, tight, slightly mineral texture. World’s End LLC. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $15

SOUTHWEST FRANCE

CAHORS

95 Clos Troteligotte 2011 K-2 Malbec (Ca-hors). An expressive wine, with solid, dense

and powerful tannins. With spice, a leather, dry textured feel, perfumed fruits supporting it, this is a wine for the seriously long-term. It is black, solid, an impressive evo-cation of the structure of great Malbec in Cahors. Keep for at least eight years. Authentique Vin. Cellar Selec-tion. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $60

95 Jean-Luc Baldès 2010 Clos Triguedina Les Galets Malbec (Cahors). From the

sun-drenched third terrace of vines above the river Lot, this magnificent wine is the star of the three single par-cel vines from Jean-Luc Baldès. It has the densest tex-ture, very firm, concentrated and dark. Spice, coffee and blackberry flavors are all finely integrated; this wine will age for at least a decade. Cynthia Hurley Wine Im-ports. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $33

94 Jean-Luc Baldès 2010 The New Black Wine Malbec (Cahors). This revival of a me-

dieval practice of heating the grapes before fermenta-tion giving an almost black color has produced a wine that has dried fruit aromas, intense and chewy black fruits on the palate and layer upon layer of tannins inter-spersing the fruit. Obviously a wine of this power needs

many years—10 and more. Cynthia Hurley Wine Im-ports. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $70

93 Clos Troteligotte 2011 K Malbec (Ca-hors). The core of the “K” range, this wine

shows its wood and tannins right up front. It’s certainly powerful, with a sense of concentrated black fruits be-hind the firm and dry structure. A dark and brooding wine, this has enormous potential, so give it at least six years. Authentique Vin. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $39

93 Domaine de Cause 2010 La Lande Cavag-nac Malbec (Cahors). Ink black in color, this

is a powerful expression of Malbec. It shows both the intense blackberry fruits and dark plum skins as well as the solid, condensed tannins. Together, these elements have produced a dense, ageworthy wine. Keep for 5–6 years. Bird Rock Imports. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $20

93 Jean-Luc Baldès 2010 Clos Triguedina Au Coin du Bois Malbec (Cahors). One

of the series of three single parcel wines, this is a ripe, gloriously generous expression of Malbec. It has weight and richness, as well as complex, dark tannins. With its blackberry flavor and dense structure, it’s likely to age for 6–7 years and more. Cynthia Hurley Wine Imports. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $33

93 Jean-Luc Baldès 2010 Clos Triguedina Petites Cailles Malbec (Cahors). Named

after the quail that inhabit the vineyard, this intensely fruity wine is ripe and full-bodied. Flavors of truffles, spice as well as black plums and berries abound. This is a serious wine for aging; keep for at least seven years, although with its great fruit it could be deliciously drink-able sooner. Cynthia Hurley Wine Imports. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $33

93 Jean-Luc Baldès 2010 Probus Malbec (Cahors). Named after the Roman emperor

who allowed vine planting in Cahors, this dense wine layers new wood and dark fruits in an initially velvety style. Only slowly do the complex tannins show through to offer power and enormous aging potential. Keep for at least seven years. AP Wine Imports. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $30

92 Clos Troteligotte 2011 K-or Malbec- Merlot (Cahors). Part of the range of “K”

wines from Clos Troteligotte, K-or boasts dark, dense, very firm tannins while still showing black plum and berry fruits. It has concentration and a solid, chunky structure that promises aging over at least 5–6 years. Authentique Vin. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $17

91 Jean-Luc Baldès 2010 Clos Triguedina Malbec (Cahors). Predominantly Malbec,

with some Merlot and Tannat, this classic estate wine from Triguedina is dark, dense and initially tannic. It has great concentration from the black-plum-skin flavors as well as licorice and layers of wood-derived spice. The

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wine needs at least five years more in bottle. AP Wine Imports. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $20

90 Clos Troteligotte 2011 K-lys Malbec (Ca-hors). This big, spicy wine is very smooth and

rich now, but also has the potential to age. Dusty tan-nins, perfumed fruits and a rich dense character offer the potential to drink in a year. This is a great expression of Cahors. Authentique Vin. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $24

89 Jean-Luc Baldès 2010 Château Labrande Malbec (Cahors). From a small property next

to Jean-Luc Baldès’s Clos Triguedina, Labrande pro-duces a firm while accessible Malbec. It has richness, solid tannins, dark coffee and blueberry flavors. The end shows density and medium-term aging potential. Misa Imports. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $15

88 Jean-Luc Baldès 2010 Triguedina Petit Clos Malbec-Merlot (Cahors). Made for

early drinking, this fresh and fruity wine gives a touch of smokiness and just the right level of tannin to remind you this is from Malbec in Cahors. Keep for a year or drink now. Cynthia Hurley Wine Imports. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $15

88 Vignobles 46N118 2008 Noir 46 Malbec (Cahors). A simple, big and fruity Malbec,

softer than many although with all the right richness. This is a wine for drinking now, with its mature plum flavors and leather aroma. The French number for the department (county) of Cahors is 46. Luxe Vintages. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $14

87 Clos Troteligotte 2011 K-nom Malbec-Merlot (Cahors). Great value, simple and

fruity, this is a ripe wine without wood aging, just burst-ing with black fruit flavors. It’s rich, slightly stalky and ready to drink now. Authentique Vin. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $13

CÔTES DU TARN

91 Domaine D’en Ségur 2008 Grande Réserve (Côtes du Tarn). A blend of Merlot

and Cabernet Sauvignon, this is reminiscent of a super-ripe Saint-Émilion. It has both structure and sold black fruits, both of which speak of some good aging. Keep for 5–7 years. Bird Rock Imports. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $50

86 Domaine D’en Ségur 2009 Red (Côtes du Tarn). This blend of Merlot and Duras, the

Gaillac grape, is a bold, red-fruit centered wine. It is round while also shot through with acidity, and the fruit pushed forward by the firm tannins. Balanced and ready to drink. Bird Rock Imports. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $17

84 Domaine D’en Ségur 2009 Le Rouge (Côtes du Tarn). This complex blend of Du-

ras, Syrah and Braucol has a definite rustic, earthy char-acter. It is tannic and stalky, showing some greenness. With its berry fruits right to the fore it is not for aging. Bird Rock Imports. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $15

MONTRAVEL

91 Château le Raz 2009 Montravel. This is full of ripe, intense fruitiness that is well support-

ed by a firm, tannic structure. This has the richness of 2009, generous and full of blackberry fruit flavors. Still young, still ebullient and raring to go. Keep for at least six years. Demontoux Fine Wines. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $25

90 Château le Raz 2006 Montravel. Big, dense and complex, this is still young. It has the weight

of tannin as well as dark fruits offering a rich and age-worthy structure. As it opens, the wine is packed with dried fruits, licorice and dark coffee. This is a wine for keeping at least four more years. Demontoux Fine Wines. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $25

88 Château le Raz 2008 Montravel. Just begin-ning its secondary phase, the wine has weight,

dark tannins and complex dried fruit, licorice and spice. A stylish, elegant wine with some of the freshness of the vintage still in place. Demontoux Fine Wines. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $25

87 Château le Raz 2004 Montravel. Hinting at mushrooms, the aroma of this wine is now ma-

ture. The palate also brings out a mature character, with its soft tannins and dried fruit flavors. It’s still very drink-able, fresh and enjoyable. Just don’t keep it. Demontoux Fine Wines. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $25

86 Château le Raz 2002 Montravel. Gener-ally regarded as one of the lighter vintages of

the 21st century, the wine still has charm and attractive mature flavors like mushroom, as well as a leathery tex-ture. The end still hints at freshness and attractive fruit. Demontoux Fine Wines. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $25

84 Château le Raz 2003 Montravel. The browning color shows that this wine has age. It

has weight still, as well as considerable acidity, but the wine is beginning to dry out and certainly should not be kept for much longer. Demontoux Fine Wines. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $25

OTHER RED WINES

92 Château Peyros 2009 Vieilles Vignes Tannat-Cabernet Franc (Madiran). On the

southern edge of Madiran, Château Peyros has excep-tional rocky vineyards. That gives this seriously struc-tured wine a mineral nuance, framing the dark, very firm and tannic character. The fruit, bold and black, is still under the surface of a wine that needs at least 7–8

years to soften, Baron Francois Ltd. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $18

91 Château Peyros 2009 Tannat-Cabernet (Madiran). A typical blend for the region of

Tannat and both Cabernets, this is a big, ripe wine, warm, dense and still very firm and young in character. Its structure goes right down to its depths, powerful and certainly ageworthy over the next 5–6 years and more. Baron Francois Ltd. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $14

88 Lionel Osmin & Cie 2010 Pied de Perdrix Pied de Perdrix (Vin de Pays du Comté

Tolosan). Pied de Perdrix is a relative of Malbec, al-most lost but rediscovered in a vineyard near Cahors. In style, this wine, all fruit and firm tannins, has much in common with a lighter Cahors. The black fruits are bold, well etched and are all ready to drink. Screwcap. Monsieur Touton Selection Ltd. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $NA

ROSÉS

85 Cave de Gan 2012 Grains de Béarn (Bé-arn). Full and rounded, this warm rosé has

some weight. A food-friendly selection, it has a dry, tangy character, textured red-currant flavor and tight fi-nal acidity. Bird Rock Imports. —R.V. abv: 12% Price: $14

85 Domaine D’en Ségur 2012 Le Rosé Cab-ernet (Côtes du Tarn). Made from both Cab-

ernets, this light, fruity wine has attractive red-fruit fla-vors, refreshing acidity and a crisp, bright aftertaste. Ready to drink now. Bird Rock Imports. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $13

84 Cave de Gan 2012 Oh! Biarnesa Rosé (Béarn). Salmon pink in color, this young and

fresh rosé has a light, attractive and fruity character. It’s very much a summer drink, dry and with bright acidity. Bird Rock Imports. —R.V. abv: 12% Price: $16

CÔTES DE GASCOGNE WHITES

86 Domaine de l’Herré 2012 Chardonnay (Côtes de Gascogne). A light, fragrant

Chardonnay, this wine feels cool and soft. There are at-tractive plum and greengage flavors, as well as a gentle touch of acidity. This is pure fruitiness, with no wood aging. Vignobles LVDH USA Inc. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $12

86 Domaine de l’Herré 2011 Gros Manseng (Côtes de Gascogne). There is just a touch

of sweetness here, with apricot and nut flavors offering ripeness and a soft, full-in-the-mouth character. The wine has a light touch, and should be a delicious apéri-


BUYINGGUIDEtif wine, or try it paired with Chinese food. Vignobles LVDH USA Inc. —R.V. abv: 12% Price: $12

86 Domaine Uby 2012 Sauvignon Blanc (Côtes de Gascogne). Tightly herbaceous

and very crisp, grassy and citrusy, this is the epitome of cool, fresh Sauvignon Blanc. It’s a light, bright, easy-drinking wine that’s ready to go now. Baron Francois Ltd. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 11.5% Price: $11

86 Domaine Uby 2012 Colombard-Ugni Blanc (Côtes de Gascogne). This is the

classic Gascon blend, also found as the base wine for Armagnac. It produces a light, bright, fruity, very crisp wine that has citrus, a touch of peach and green plum flavors. Drink this year. Baron Francois Ltd. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 11.5% Price: $11

85 Domaine de l’Herré 2012 Sauvignon Blanc (Côtes de Gascogne). This is a ripe

wine, its herbaceous character tempered by green plum and pineapple flavors. It’s full in the mouth, with a hint of steeliness to give texture. Great to drink this summer. Vignobles LVDH USA Inc. —R.V. abv: 12% Price: $12

84 Domaine de l’Herré 2012 La Galope Sau-vignon Blanc (Côtes de Gascogne). This

is perfect for lovers of light, herbaceous Sauvignon Blanc. All the grassy and citrus flavors are here, attrac-tively crisp while not aggressive. Drink this year. Screw-cap. Bridge Imports. —R.V. abv: 12% Price: $12

OTHER WHITE WINES

90 Domaine D’en Ségur 2011 Cuvée Mad-eleine Chardonnay (Côtes du Tarn). This

is a wood-aged Chardonnay that’s smooth, creamy and rich. The wine has weight, with lemon and peach fla-vors as well as vanilla accents from the oak. Its current fruitiness will mature and broaden well, so keep this wine for at least four years. Bird Rock Imports. Edi-tors’ Choice. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $22

85 Domaine D’en Ségur 2012 Sauvignon Blanc (Côtes du Tarn). This is an intense-

ly herbaceous wine; all grapefruit and hedgerow fruits with a grassy core. It is light, very fruity, clean and crisp; a typical cool climate Sauvignon Blanc. Bird Rock Im-ports. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $15

88 Clos Troteligotte 2012 C.Sb.V. (Vin de Pays du Lot). A blend of Chardonnay, Sauvi-

gnon Blanc and Viognier (to add some southern spice), this is a soft, fruity wine with rich white fruits and attrac-tive acidity. It’s a wine that can be drunk soon, although it should age several years. Authentique Vin. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $16

WineMag.com | 77

95 Boulard X.O. Calvados (France; Palm Bay International, Boca Raton, FL). For

full review see page 10.abv: 40% Price: $90

93 Berneroy VSOP Calvados (France; Deutsch Family Wines & Spirits, White

Plains, NY). There’s no mistaking that this is a warm and welcoming product distilled from apples—a pleas-ing, authentic apple aroma wafts out of the glass, along with a light floral note. Caramel and gingerbread spice coat the palate on the rounded finish, suggesting tarte tatin. Mellow and sippable, this would be outstanding in fall-accented cocktails. Even the rounded bottle shape suggests an apple. Best Buy.abv: 40% Price: $22

92 Boulard Grand Solage V.S.O.P. Calvados (France; Palm Bay International, Boca

Raton, FL). For full review see page 10.abv: 40% Price: $50

92 Berneroy XO Calvados (France; Deutsch Family Wines & Spirits, White Plains,

NY). Spicy and refreshing, this bright golden-orange brandy shows thick caramel and dried fruit upfront, but ends on a lighter note, with tea, leather, ginger and a faint grassiness on the finish. abv: 40% Price: $32

90 Berneroy Fine Calvados (France; Deutsch Family Wines & Spirits, White

Plains, NY). Crisp and light bodied, this bright gold apple brandy could be mistaken for an oaked white

wine (with a little extra alcohol, of course). Waves of juicy apple, honey and vanilla lead to a spark of ginger on the graceful finish. Best Buy.abv: 40% Price: $19

90 Cornelius Applejack (USA; Harvest Spir-its, Valatie, NY). For each bottle, over 60

pounds of Hudson Valley apples are pressed, ferment-ed and distilled, then aged in white oak for two years. The end result is fresh and pretty, pale gold and fra-grant with honey and pear. Vanilla coats the palate at first, with a surprisingly viscous feel. Given time, more delicate pear and chamomile notes appear. Perfect for mixing jack rose cocktails.abv: 40% Price: $40

90 Short Mountain Apple Pie Tennessee Moonshine (USA; Short Mountain Distill-

ery, Woodbury, TN). Goes down surprisingly easy for anything labeled “moonshine,” though flavoring is add-ed and the label describes this product as a “moonshine cocktail.” Regardless, this golden corn-based liquid has rustic aromas of malt, apple and hay. A juicy, sweet-tart apple flavor hits the taste buds first, followed by a light wash of vanilla. abv: 20% Price: $29

89 Dr. McGillicuddy’s Intense Apple Pie Li-queur (Canada; Sazerac Co., Metairie,

LA). Although “intense” may be an exaggeration, this syrupy-sweet liqueur delivers assertive green-apple fla-vor. It’s fun, and a vast improvement over certain other

ersatz offerings for flavoring apple cocktails. Mix with vodka or gin. abv: 21% Price: $15

89 Domaine Dupont Vielle Reserve Calva-dos (France; Robert Kacher Selections,

New York, NY). This light-gold brandy has a distinct grassy, vegetal presence that’s reminiscent of añejo Te-quila, running to pineapple and pear, honey, agave nec-tar and white pepper. Intriguingly buttery finish.abv: 42% Price: $60

88 Domaine Dupont Hors d’Age Calvados (France; Robert Kacher Selections, New

York, NY). This golden Calvados offers a fresh, light mix of pear, grass, vanilla and honey, along with subtle hints of white flowers, ginger and black pepper. The al-cohol feels a bit harsh and drying.abv: 42% Price: $85

86 Black Dirt Apple Jack (USA; Black Dirt Distilling, Warwick, NY). “Bottled-in-bond”

spirits date back to 1897, meant to ensure the purity of American-made whiskey. As a bottled-in-bond apple brandy, this deliberately 100-proof spirit is meant for mixing, and retains apple, espresso, bitter chocolate and clove flavors. It’s aged a minimum of four years in new, charred American oak barrels.abv: 50% Price: $45

WHISKIES

95 Jim Beam Signature Craft Small Batch Bourbon (USA; James M. Beam Dis-

tilling Co., Frankfort, KY). The first rollout in Jim Beam’s premium Signature Craft series is a 12-year-old Bourbon finished in Spanish brandy casks. It’s deli-cious; dried fruit, vanilla and praline notes are chased by a long finish that winds into ginger and cinnamon. It grows richer and fruiter the longer it’s allowed to open in the glass.abv: 43% Price: $40

93 Brenne French Single Malt Whisky (France; Local Infusions, Wilmington,

DE). This unique newcomer—a French single-malt whisky finished in used Cognac barrels—tastes like a soft, golden Speyside Scotch with a little something ex-tra. Honey, apricot and crème brûlée kick into a spicy ginger and black pepper finish and a gentle puff of smoke. abv: 40% Price: $60

92 Knob Creek Rye Whiskey (USA; Knob Creek Distillery, Clermont, KY). Though

this new offering meets the technical criteria for rye (a mash bill of at least 51% rye), the sweet, caramelly fla-vors suggest a high-rye Bourbon—which makes sense considering that Knob Creek is best known for its Bour-bon. Expect bold almond, oak, brown butter and pecan pie flavors. The drying baking-spice finish is more char-acteristic of rye, and has less bite than might be expect-ed of a 100-proof spirit. abv: 50% Price: $40

FAMILY TREE: APPLE-BASED SPIRITS

An apple a day? Sure, when the apple in question is one of the boldly-flavored ap-ple brandies, eaux de vie and other ap-

ple-based spirits showing up at bars and on li-quor store shelves. As the weather cools, the autumnal apple is a perfect, food-friendly match for the glass—rich, fruity and delicious.

Some attribute a rising interest in heirloom apples to the recent increase in artisanal apple brandies, liqueurs and hard ciders. Just when bartenders thought they’d exhausted the pre-Prohibition cocktail canon, the next wave ap-pears: Colonial-era drinks in which ciders and other apple spirits figure prominently. The jack rose is a particular favorite: applejack or Calva-dos mixed with lemon or lime juice and grena-dine. Gild the lily with Bar Keep Baked Apple Bitters, if you dare!

In the reviews below, the apple-based spirits category was deliberately left open ended, to en-courage a wide range of innovative spirits made from apples.

It was a given that brandies like France’s Cal-vados and their American brethren, applejack, would come in—and they surely did, including many excellent bottlings, such as those made by Boulard and Berneroy in Normandy, or, closer to home, fresh and apple-fragrant Cornelius Ap-plejack from Hudson Valley, NY.

That said, other, more distant cousins of the apple family exist, too. Consider apple eaux de vie, for example; vodka made from apples, like CORE vodka; or gin, like the one Chase Wil-liams makes from English cider apples, a prod-uct newly arrived in the U.S. market. More distantly-related, apple-flavored products, in-cluding whiskey and liqueurs, also fill out the shelves. At their core, all have the humble ap-ple in common.

Since crisp autumn weather often signals the return of brown spirits, reviews of some new whiskies are included below.

Cheers! —Kara NewmaN

SPIRITS


BUYINGGUIDE

92 Johnny Walker Double Black Blended Scotch Whisky (Scotland; Diageo, Nor-

walk, CT). This blended Scotch, “matured in deep-charred old oak casks” features intensely smoky aromas and flavors, although honey sweetness and mellow al-mond peek through. Golden in hue, with a silky feel. abv: 40% Price: $40

90 Jim Beam Devil’s Cut Kentucky Straight Bourbon Whiskey (USA; James M. Beam

Distilling Co., Frankfort, KY). The backstory behind this bottling is that Master Distiller Fred Noe uses a

“barrel sweating” technique to coax out Bourbon that has soaked into barrels during aging; that extract then is combined with newer whiskey. The end result is a lean and austere Bourbon, with brisk espresso, black tea and fig flavors highlighted by black pepper and clove. Seems made for mixing.abv: 45% Price: $22

90 White Pike Whiskey (USA; Finger Lakes Distilling, New York, NY). For full review

see page 10. abv: 40% Price: $33

89 Coppersea New York Raw Rye (Copper-sea Distilling LLC, West Park, NY). This

debut offering from Hudson Valley’s Coppersea, which employs “heritage method” distilling techniques, is sur-prisingly smooth and complex for an unaged whiskey. Distinct notes of banana and fiery cassia bark mesh with candied citrus peel. Recommended for cocktails in place of white rum or silver Tequila. abv: 48% Price: $50

88 Crown Royal Maple Finished Whisky (Canada; Diageo, Norwalk, CT). It’s not a

liqueur, although some may expect it to be, with its am-ber color and rich maple aroma. Instead, there’s only a touch of sweetness, leaning toward toasty oak and cara-mel on the palate, with most of the maple on the nose and lingering finish. An irreverent whisky to mix into maple whisky sours and other cocktails.abv: 40% Price: $25

87 Dewar’s Highlander Honey Blended Scotch Whisky Infused with Natural Fla-

vors (Scotland; Bacardi USA, Coral Gables, FL). This flavored whiskey is infused with honey flavors, then

“filtered through oak cask wood.” It looks and smells just like honey, but on the palate also shows sarsaparilla and a pleasant Scotch-like smokiness, which cuts the intense sweetness. Use to sweeten whiskey-based cocktails.abv: 40% Price: $24

WineMag.com | 79

95 Aleman-Stone-Two Brothers DayMan Coffee IPA (American IPA; The Stone

Brewing Co., CA). This innovative IPA blends the as-sertive hop characteristics of an IPA with fresh roasted coffee. Although that might sound a bit strange, the re-sulting brew is surprisingly harmonious. Bright tropical-fruit notes of Citra hops, along with more traditional hop characteristics of citrus zest and pine, mingle seam-lessly with warm, toasty notes of coffee, caramel and earthy spice. It’s medium to full bodied, with a creamy and slightly resinous mouthfeel that coats the palate. Roasted coffee bean and piny hop flavors complement each other on the finish, and result in an appropriately bitter close.abv: 8.7% Price: $9/22 oz

95 Deschutes Hop Henge Experimental IPA (American IPA; Deschutes Brewery, OR).

Deschutes’s Hop Henge Experimental IPA—the brew-ery’s “annual exercise in IBU escalation”—pours a stun-ning golden-apricot color, with a thick head that really lasts. The bouquet offers forward aromas of floral hops, orange blossoms, savory fresh herbs and bready malts. The medium-weight mouth exhibits similar notes, but with greater hop intensity and bitterness, resulting in a slightly resinous stickiness that carries through to the finish. A clean, malty core grounds the astringency and keeps it from feeling overdone, alongside flavors of toasted brioche and golden raisin.abv: 10.6% Price: $6/22 oz

93 Smuttynose Finestkind IPA (American IPA; Smuttynose Brewing Co., NH). A

well-balanced IPA, this pours a gorgeous golden-or-ange color, with a slight haze and a fluffy white head that lingers and leaves generous lacing behind with each sip. The aromas are pronounced and enticing, bringing scents of orange peel, pine resin, earthy hops and bis-cuity malt, as well as light peppery spice. Those notes carry through to the smooth and slightly creamy palate, ending on a lovely bitter flavor that lingers long on the close.abv: 6.9% Price: $9/12 oz 6 pack

92 21st Amendment Hop Crisis Imperial IPA (American Double/Imperial IPA; 21st

Amendment Brewery, CA). Aged on oak spirals, this is an interesting interpretation of an American Imperial IPA. The oaky notes of baking spice and toasted wood complement the bitter hop aromas and flavors of pine resin and orange oil. A hint of tobacco adds depth to the bouquet, while the palate offers citrus-rind and pine-cone flavors supported by toasted malt and a touch of caramel. It’s medium bodied, with low carbonation and a slightly resinous texture. The alcohol provides a warm-ing sensation that lingers through the long finish. abv: 9.7% Price: $10/12 oz 4 pack

92 Karl Strauss Blackball Belgian-style IPA (American IPA; Karl Strauss Brewing

Company, CA). This subtle IPA shows great balance and nuance. A cloudy orange color in the glass, it leads with lively aromas of orange and grapefruit zest, yeast, pressed yellow flowers and a touch of white pepper. The palate offers similar notes, but with a fruity core of un-derripe peach and pineapple. It’s richly textured, with a

full mouthfeel and light carbonation. The long, dry fin-ish is accented by earthy hop and bready yeast flavors. abv: 8.5% Price: $8/22 oz

92 Smuttynose Paradox (American IPA; Smuttynose Brewing Co., NH). Part of

Smuttynose’s Short Batch Series, this was brewed to commemorate the Sun Winefest Ten Year Anniversa-ry. Dubbed “a session IPA,” this is initially fragrant and fruity, with bright scents of tropical fruits, like mango and pineapple, as well as red grapefruit segments, floral hops and a touch of sweet grass. The medium-weight palate is flavorful and complex, with an impressive evo-lution of flavors, from fresh tropical fruits to citrus to biscuity malt and final hoppy bitterness. With its ap-proachable alcohol and juicy character, this is indeed a sessionable selection. abv: 5.3% Price: $9/22 oz

91 Deschutes Fresh Squeezed IPA (Ameri-can IPA; Deschutes Brewery, OR). Brewed

with Citra and Mosaic hops, this IPA is wonderfully fra-grant. It leads with a mélange of fruit aromas: manda-rin orange, ruby-red grapefruit, passion fruit, mango, pineapple and papaya. Those notes carry through to the medium-weight palate, supported by flavors of bread dough and lightly caramelized malt. A dank stickiness adds depth to the palate and length to the finish.abv: 6.0% Price: $6/22 oz

91 Hangar 24 Double IPA (American Dou-ble/Imperial IPA; Hangar 24 Craft Brew-

ery, CA). This DIPA pours a hazy apricot color, with a frothy off-white head that lasts. Hop aromas and flavors are in the foreground, with pronounced notes of citrus zest—lemon, orange and grapefruit—as well as accents of pine and hemp oil. The medium carbonation keeps the palate from feeling too heavy or resinous, while the biscuity, malty core balances out the hoppy bitterness. Despite the alcohol, this is well balanced and easy to drink.abv: 9.0% Price: $7/22 oz

91 Karl Strauss Big Barrel Double IPA (American Double/Imperial IPA; Karl

Strauss Brewing Company, CA). This is an as-sertive brew that’s sure to please just about any hop-head. It leads with forward aromas of citrus, as well as juicy scents of tropical fruit, apricot and green grape, accented by fresh grass and pine needles. These notes continue into the broad and flavorful palate, support-ed by a core of sweet, caramel-malt flavor and a hint of honey. Medium carbonation keeps the mouthfeel lifted, and the finish is long, with soft bitterness and lingering, juicy fruit flavors. abv: 9.0% Price: $8/22 oz

90 Deschutes Chasin’ Freshies Fresh Hop I.P.A. (American IPA; Deschutes Brew-

ery, OR). This fresh-hop IPA offers delicate notes of lemon, apricot, orange blossom, white grape and earthy hops. The palate is much more expressive than the nose, showing bold flavors of fresh citrus juice, mango, bready malt and pressed yellow flowers. The bitterness starts off subtle in the mouth, but grows more pronounced through the long, lingering finish. Smooth and lightly

IPAS CONTINUE TO DOMINATE THE MARKET

Even though craft beers are still red hot and brewers continue to look for the next big thing, consumers will forever return to

certain classic styles: lagers and stouts, for sure, but also India pale ales (IPAs).

Among consumers, a subset of people drives the IPA craze, affectionately dubbed “hopheads.” We all know the type: folks who just can’t get enough hop aroma and flavor in their beer. The feverish need for high levels of hops and increased IBUs (international bittering units) consumed so many people for so many years, it almost seemed to be the motto of the American craft beer scene: The hoppier, the better.

While some might still find this to be true, bigger does not always mean better, and it seems that many brewers have heard the message. American beers, especially IPAs, are still quite hoppy, but many beer lovers have finally gotten over the initial hop-shock and are now searching for more refined, balanced options.

The American hop varieties commonly used in these brews still take the spotlight, but harmony with the beer’s other elements—a malt backbone to support the hop characteristics, balanced alcohol and an acceptable level of astringency—is becoming more important. Some over-the-top examples are still available, especially in the double IPA category, but for consumers looking to walk into the IPA pool instead of diving headfirst into the lupulin deepend, a plethora of delicious options are ready to ease you along.

For those with an adventurous spirit, new, hybrid-style IPAs offer alternative and exciting selections.

This trend, a perfect example of the playful creativity in the brewing industry, mixes the intense hop profile of an IPA with another style, such as a Belgian-style wheat beer, or a unique ingredient, such as coffee. When the balance is right, these brews can offer the best of both worlds.

Prost! —laureN Buzzeo

BEER


BUYINGGUIDEcreamy in texture, with medium carbonation and great overall balance.abv: 7.4% Price: $6/22 oz

90 Smuttynose Noonan Black IPA (Ameri-can Black Ale; Smuttynose Brewing Co.,

NH). Smutty’s Black IPA is named after Greg Noonan, who is often credited for inventing the Black IPA style. It pours a dark brown color, with a thick tan head that lingers. Roasted malt, coffee and pine needle aromas are upfront, followed by accents of bitter chocolate, caramel and dried plum. The medium-bodied palate boasts good interplay between the roasty, chocolaty fla-vors and the hop-derived bitterness, ending harmoni-ously on notes of bitter cocoa.abv: 5.7% Price: $9/12 oz 6 pack

88 Hangar 24 Columbus IPA (American IPA; Hangar 24 Craft Brewery, CA). An attrac-

tive, well-balanced single-hop IPA, loaded with asser-tive aromas and flavors of grapefruit pith, peach skin, yellow flowers and pine. The hops take center stage in this brew, but without being too bitter or overdone. A bready flavor provides a nice grounding for the palate, with hints of peppery spice and licorice root that unfold on the finish. abv: 7% Price: $5/22 oz

85 Barrel Trolley I.P.A. No 2 (American IPA; World Brews, NY). This is a straightforward

selection, with moderately intense aromas and flavors of pine resin, bready malt and honeyed cereal. The mouthfeel is medium weight and boasts moderate car-bonation, ending on a dry and very bitter note.abv: 6.3% Price: $7/12 oz 6 pack

84 R.J. King Wingwalker Flight: 4 India Pale Ale (American IPA; RJ King Wingwalker

Brewing Company, NY). This easy IPA offers del-icate aromas of pale malt, lemon rind and sourdough bread. The palate is similarly light, with low-intensity notes of citrus and soda cracker and just a hint of metal-lic flavor. It’s medium to light in weight and softly car-bonated, finishing short but clean. abv: 6.9% Price: $7/12 oz 6 pack

september 2013 - wine enthusiast magazine

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