Featuring North America’s Leading Travel Destinations

Great American Roads 2015

Featuring Route 66, The National Road in Illinois, and Music Trails Through the South

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By Steve Kirchner, Editor & PublisherPREVIEW

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Welcome to the annual GreatAmerican Roads issue ofByways. Each year we focus

on the highways and byways that make,or made, North America a great place totravel. In this issue, we include tworoads which no longer exist, but played

a key role in the transportation system of the UnitedStates.

Route 66 was known as the Mother Road. It was a for-ever changing route from Chicago to SouthernCalifornia that played an important role during three dis-tint decades. This 2,448-mile, two-lane blacktop roadtransported Dust Bowl migrants to California during the1930s, eager WWII GI’s andtheir war equipment in the1940s, and swarms of touristsseeking to discover America dur-ing the 1950s.

We focus on two segments ofRoute 66, in California andArizonal, and in Oklahoma.

The National Road is less wellknown, but played an equallysignificant role in the growth ofthe U.S. It is often called theroad that built the nation.

General George Washington had the idea to build theNational Road, but it did not become a reality untilPresident Thomas Jefferson passed the bill in 1806.

We focus on one leg of the road, the 164-mile segmentin the State of Illinois.

Many a song has been written and sung along the backroads of America. So it is no surprise that travel, roadsand music are intertwined in so many parts of the coun-try.

We focus on four regions that tie music and traveltogether. In Kentucky, Bill Graves joines up with PollyJudd to take us on a tour down Highway 23, Kentucky’sCountry Music Highway. A who’s who of country starsgot their start here, in addtion to the Judds. They includeLoretta Lynn, Billy Ray Cyrus, Tom T. Hill, RickySkaggs, Keith Whitley, Dwight Yoakam, Gary Stewart,Patty Loveless, Crystal Gayle, to name a few!

The new Americana Music Triangle is a preservationproject along a 1,500-mile stretch of highway thatbirthed nine uniquely American genres of music --Blues, Jazz, Country, Rock & Roll, R&B/Soul, Gospel,Southern Gospel, Cajun/Zydeco and Bluegrass.

Spanning more than 30 communities along the “GoldRecord Road” (the Natchez Trace Parkway, I-10,Highway 90, Highway 61 and I-40), the AmericanaMusic Triangle is a milestone collaboration of culturalattractions across the South.

Five new driving tours have been created to take youthroughout the region.

West Virginia’s new Mountain Music Trail providesvisitors the opportunity to experience local music andculture in historic venues, as well as at festivals celebrat-ing the region’s heritage.

The Trail consists of venues throughout five countiesin eastern West Virginia that came together to promoteand present the traditional music, dance, and folkways of

the Allegheny Mountain region. The Crooked Road is

Virginia’s Heritage Music Trail, a330-mile driving route throughthe Appalachian Mountains ofSouthwest Virginia.

It is an opportunity for travel-ers to experience over 200 yearsof the heritage and music in thisbeautiful mountainous region ofVirginia.

Next, we head north for anupstate New York Family

Roadtrip. Jenifer Maxwell takes us on a journey toRochester, where we visit the National Museum of Playto meet Big Bird, and take an excursion on the ErieCanel.

Jennifer returns with a second story, featuring the fab-ulous Saguenay Lac Saint-Jean, the Land of Giants in theprovince of Quebec. It’s not just the vast glacially-sculpted landscapes and the deep fjord edged with350m-high cliffs, but also the region’s personality. Astrong sense of place exists here, and you can see andfeel it in the area’s culture, history and people.

In What’s Happening, we return to New York State tovisit the Glenn Curtiss Aviation Museum. Often calledone of the hidden gems of aviation history, it has reacheda new milestone as visitors from around the world maketheir way to Hammondsport, N.Y.

The final stop is the American Music Theatre inLancaster, PA. A new, original show is on tap, Crooners-- those suave gentlemen and sophisticated ladies whodefined musical cool with their smooth, sentimentalsinging styles.

We hope you enjoy this issue of Byways.

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FeaturesGreat American Roads 2015. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8U.S. Route 66 in California & Arizona . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10Route 66 in Oklahoma, The Ultimate Road Trip. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16Historic National Road of Illinois, A Journey of Past & Present . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20Kentucky’s Country Music Highway . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24Americana Music Triangle Launched . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28 West Virginia’s Mountain Music Trail. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30Virginia’s 330-Mile Crooked Road Music Trail . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32 New York Family Roadtrip: First Stop Rochester . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 36

CanadaQuebec’s Saguenay Lac Saint-Jean: Visiting the Region of Giants . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42

DepartmentsByways Instant Connect . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3Byways Preview. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4Traveling the Highways & Byways, with Bill Graves. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24Advertisers Index . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 53Free Byways Subscription . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54

What’s HappeningGlenn H. Curtiss Museum, Gem of Aviation History, Reaches New Milestone . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50American Music Theatre Original Crooners . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 52

Coming in future issues of Byways ..... The Leading North American Tour Destinations,Great American Railroads, Mountains & Valleys, and much more!

Next Up: NorthAmerica’s Top TourDestinations. Atright, The Grand OleOpry. Nashvillealways ranks nearthe top of this annuallist chosen by touroperators throughoutNorth America.

Volume 32, Issue No. 5 2015

On the cover. The Wayne Henderson Festival along the Crooked RoadMusic Trail in Virginia. Photo courtesy Jonathan Romeo for The CrookedRoad. See story page 30. Byways Great American Roads coverage begins onpage 8.

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Great American Roads 2015This stretch of old U.S. Route 66 near Oatman, Arizona, through the Black Mountains, wasfraught with hairpin turns and was the steepest along the entire 2,448 mile route. Some earlytravellers, too frightened at the prospect of driving such a potentially dangerous road, hiredlocals to navigate the winding grade.

Officially, U.S. Route  66 is a part of a formerUnited States Numbered Highway in the state ofCalifornia that ran from the east in Santa Monica

on the Pacific Ocean through Los Angeles and SanBernardino to Needles at the Arizona state line.

U.S. 66 was assigned by the American Association ofState Highway Officials in November 1926 and signed

in 1928 by theAutomobile Club ofSouthern California.

Unofficially, U.S.Route 66 becameknown as the MotherRoad, not just any

road, but a forever changing, wide-open road that can take you on the ulti-mate road trip from Los Angeles toChicago.

Today, you can still discover the his-tory, romance and pop culture of Route66. Even though it officially ceased toexist 30 years ago!

No road has been written about

U.S. Route 66 in California & Arizona

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Roy’s Motel and Café on Route 66 was once thelargest roadside business in the desert town ofAmboy, California. When I-40 opened, it became aghost town.

more, transformed into song, turned into atelevision series (Route 66) and movie(Cars) than Route 66. And no wonder.

This 2,448-mile, two-lane blacktop roadtransported Dust Bowl migrants toCalifornia during the 1930s, eager WWIIGI’s in the1940s, and swarms of touristsseeking to discover America during the1950s.

Nationally, Route 66 has been a decom-missioned highway since 1985, with the lastsection through Williams, Arizona,bypassed by I-40 in 1984.

The first efforts to return the route to mapsas “Historic Route  66” date to 1987 andAngel Delgadillo’s Arizona HistoricRoute  66 Association. This initiative wassoon followed in all eight U.S.  Route 66states, including California.

The California Historic Route  66Association, established in December 1990to advocate the preservation, restoration and promotionof historic Route 66 in California, is the youngest of theeight state-level Route 66 Associations. They joinedIllinois, Missouri, Kansas, Oklahoma, Texas, NewMexico, Arizona in recognizing the historical signifi-cance of the highway.

Starting in Santa Monica, California, U.S. 66 original-ly started at the southwest end of Santa Monica

Boulevard. From San Bernardino to the Arizona stateline U.S.  66 followed the old National Old TrailsHighway. U.S. 66 was all paved in California by 1935.U.S.  66 originally exited San Bernardino on MountVernon Avenue and Cajon Boulevard, which meanderedits way up to Cajon Pass.

U.S.  66 originally followed 7th Street and D Streetthrough Victorville then the National Old Trails

Byways • 11Delgadillo’s Snow Cap Drive-In on former U.S. Route 66, Seligman, Arizona.

Santa Monical wasthe end - or begin-ning - of Route 66.Photo courtesyMateusz Kudla.

Highway through Barstow, California (where it took onthe name “Main Street”) and across the Mojave Desert toNeedles, then crossed the Colorado River into Arizonaon the Trails Arch Bridge.

U.S. Route 66 covered 401miles in Arizona. The high-way ran from west to east,starting in Needles,

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The Trails Arch Bridge carried Route 66 across the Colorado River connecting Topock, Arizona andnearby Needles, California. The bridge was built in 1916. Photo courtesy Thad Roan.

One of two Wigwam Motels along Route66, the Wigwam Holbrook, Arizona. Photo courtesy Raleigh Muns.

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California, through Kingman and Seligman to the NewMexico state line as part of the historic U.S.  66 fromSanta Monica, California, to Chicago, Illinois.

Between the California state line and Kingman, theoriginal alignment is now known as Oatman Road andpassed through the old mining town of Oatman, now aghost town due to mine closures.

One section just outside Oatman, Arizona, through theBlack Mountains, was fraught with hairpin turns and wasthe steepest along the entire route, so much so that someearly travellers, too frightened at the prospect of drivingsuch a potentially dangerous road, hired locals to navi-gate the winding grade. The section remained asRoute 66 until 1953, and is still open to traffic today as

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the Oatman Highway.Seligman is the birthplace of the first route 66 associ-

ation, established by local barber Angel Delgadillo in1987. This group obtained the first “Historic Route 66”designation, which the state initially placed on the seg-ment of U.S. 66 between Kingman and Seligman.

From Seligman to east of Flagstaff, the area is moun-tainous (not desert) and covered with pine forests. Theold section through Flagstaff itself is officially named“Route 66”. Shortly before joining I-40 east of Flagstaff,U.S. 66 passes through Winona, a small unincorporatedcommunity made famous in the song “(Get Your Kickson) Route 66”.

The Meteor Crater is south of old U.S.  66 nearWinslow. The Homolovi State Park near Winslow pre-serves over 300 Ancestral Puebloan archaeological sites.At Joseph City is the Jack Rabbit Trading Post, which

once posted signs up and down the highway for hun-dreds of miles, and at Holbrook is the Wigwam VillageMotel, a motor court built to resemble a group of teepees.

Two of the three surviving Wigwam motels are locat-ed on historic U.S. Route 66: in Holbrook, Arizona, andon the city boundary between Rialto and SanBernardino, California. All three of the surviving motelsare listed on the National Register of Historic Places

The Petrified Forest National Park is located east ofHolbrook. About sixty miles before reaching NewMexico, the highway originally passed through thePainted Desert, though this section is now closed.

Approximately 80 percent of the orginal Route 66 sur-vives today, and most of the communities which servedthe road still exist. So getting your kicks on Route 66 isas feasible today as it was in the 1920s.

Not bad for a road that ceased to exist 30 years ago!

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Old Route 66 in Oatman, Arizona. The mining town is now a ghosttown due to mine closures, and mules roam its streets.

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Get your kicks on more than 400 miles of Route 66in Oklahoma. The nation’s longest driveablestretch of Route 66 cuts through Oklahoma, mak-

ing its way past charming towns, roadside diners andquirky attractions.

Experience Oklahoma City, Tulsa and authentic home-towns along the Mother Road where you’ll meet friend-ly people and find unique shopping and diningopportunities.

More than 120 historic signs provide plenty of insightinto the old road and the many lives, people, and placesit touched.

Oklahoma has played a huge part in that history, beingcentrally located along the route and holding the coun-try’s longest section of Route 66.  Whether you’re moreinterested in Route 66’s past or the many quaint attrac-tions lining the highway, here are some places you won’twant to miss along the way!Oklahoma Route 66 Museum - Clinton

The Oklahoma Route 66 Museum in Clinton payshomage to the history of transportation and Route 66 inOklahoma.  See why the highway had such an impact onAmerican culture and the hearts of people all over theworld.  The neon “Route 66” sign on the museum and aclassic car in the window give visitors a taste of whatthey’ll see inside: pure Americana.  As you walk in,check out the “world’s largest curio cabinet,” a unique

collection of items found on Route 66 throughout theyears.  Follow the timeline of Route 66 and exploreexhibits showcasing the history of the highway in eachdecade since its inception, starting with the route’s initialconstruction in the 1920s.  Artifacts, signs, vehicles andmemorabilia have survived to tell the story of the high-way’s golden years, its eventual decline and the nostal-gia that surrounds Route 66 today. Lucille’s Service Station & Roadhouse -Hydro & Weatherford

During the bustling beginnings of Route 66, servicestations popped up along the road to accommodate theneeds of travelers.  Built in 1929 in Hydro, Lucille’sService Station is one of only two service stations of itskind left on Oklahoma’s stretch of Route 66.  While nolonger in business, Lucille’s is a tribute to a bygone era,restored to its original condition.  A historical marker atthe site tells the story of the service station and its name-sake, Lucille Hamons, who ran the business for over 50years.  Long gone are the attendants to pump gas, but thevintage pumps are still there.  Remember or imagine thedays when friendly service could be found up and downAmerica’s highway. 

Inspired by Lucille’s Service Station, a restaurant inWeatherford recreates the look of the service station,down to the vintage gas pumps in front.  Lucille’sRoadhouse takes visitors back to the hoppin’ 1950s, witha diner-style restaurant and Route 66 memorabilia.

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Route 66 in Oklahoma,The Ultimate Road Trip

Built in 1898, Arcadia’s Round Barn hada presence many years before Route 66was even constructed. Photo courtesyCJP Grey. (http://www.cgpgrey.com).

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From juicy cheeseburgers to gravy-covered chickenfried steak, the menu is overflowing with good ol’American favorites.   Play classic tunes on the jukeboxwhile you wait for a Western hamburger steak or friedcatfish.  To sample savory steaks and delicious housespecialties, make your way upstairs to the steakhouse. National Route 66 & Transportation Museum - Elk City

Visit the National Route 66 & Transportation Museumin Elk City to take a journey through each of the eightstates Route 66 passes through -- from Illinois all theway to California.  See quirky roadside attractions thatlured people to stop, and get a feel for the experience oftraveling down Route 66.  Walk through displays ofantique cars and historical documents detailing the nar-rative of America’s highway.  The National Route 66 &Transportation Museum invites both children and adultsto experience automobiles of the past with interactiveand hands-on displays.  “Drive” down Route 66 in a1955 pink Cadillac and watch a black and white movieat a mock drive-in theater while sitting in a classic ChevyImpala.  The museum is part of the Old Town MuseumComplex, complete with displays and artifacts that givea glimpse into the lives of early settlers in WesternOklahoma, as well as the Farm and Ranch Museum, cel-ebrating Oklahoma’s agricultural heritage.  Coleman Theatre - Miami

Built at the end of the roaring 1920s, the ColemanTheatre along Route 66 in Miami defines the era.  In theage of vaudeville and silent films, the Coleman was anentertainment destination for all ages.  Today, the theatrehosts concerts, plays and even silent films again.Designed in Spanish Mission Revival style, the beautifulbuilding invites visitors to step inside and be transportedback in time.  Visit the magnificent theatre for a glimpseinto the past, and marvel at the incredible interior.  Theopulent Louis IV decor boasts an elegant carvedmahogany staircase, stained glass panels, gold leaf trimand crystal chandeliers.  Also, restored to its grandeur,the original 1929 “Mighty Wurlitzer” pipe organ makesmusic once again in the theatre.POPS - Arcadia

No trip down Route 66 is complete without a stop atPOPS in Arcadia.  One of the more recent additionsalong the highway, POPS is now a part of the roadsidelandscape and is a truly unique destination.  The sleek,ultra-modern architecture of the building is only over-shadowed by an iconic 66-foot tall pop bottle sculpturesitting out front.  Visit POPS at night to watch the sculp-ture’s LED lights fill the sky with changing color.  AtPOPS you can fill up your gas tank, admire the collec-tion of over 12,000 soda pop bottles, then browse over650 different kinds of ice-cold soda.  Find your favoriterefreshing treat; whether it’s a traditional cola or a sweet

fruity soda, POPS issure to have whatyou like.  Make yourway to the old-fash-ioned diner insidePOPS for a tastysnack or meal.  Try ahand-dipped milk-shake with a burgeror BLT, or go bigwith a chicken friedsteak.  Then it’s backon the road for moreadventure.  Totem Pole Park - Foyil

Stop by Totem Pole Park near Foyil to see the world’slargest concrete totem pole, located right off Route 66.Totem Pole Park, a quirky and popular roadside stopalong the Mother Road, was started by Ed Galloway in1937 as a tribute to the American Indian.   He designedand created the giant, colorful totem pole, standing tall at90 feet and featuring various bas-relief depictions of ani-mals and native people.  See a number of similar totems,on a smaller scale, littered around the park.  Take a walkaround the park, then visit the eleven-sided FiddleHouse, also designed by Galloway.  The Fiddle Housecontains a number of ornate fiddles, hand-carved byGalloway himself.Round Barn - Arcadia

Built in 1898, Arcadia’s Round Barn had a presencemany years before Route 66 was even constructed.  Theonly wooden round barn left in Oklahoma, the structureoriginally housed livestock and hay, and doubled as a

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The 1939 sand-stone Rock Cafécontains a largecollection of bothlocal memorabiliaand souvenirsfrom Pixar’s re-search of US 66for the animatedfilm Cars. Propri-etor Dawn Welchis the model onwhich Sally Car-rera, the RadiatorSprings hotelierwho fights to re-build and restorethe town, is based.

community center where dances were held.  While theRound Barn has been a long-time Route 66 landmark, itfell into disrepair in the 1970s and 1980s.  After the roofcollapsed in 1988, the Oklahoma Historical Societyacquired the property and volunteers banded together torepair the roof and restore the entire structure.  Today, theRound Barn is home to exhibits of Route 66 memorabil-ia and a gift shop.  See this over 100 year-old architec-turally stunning barn for yourself, and tour the structurefor an unforgettable look inside.Seaba Station Motorcycle Museum - Warwick

Step inside the Seaba Station Motorcycle Museum inWarwick for a motorcycle lover’s dream.  Seaba Stationwas built in 1921 as a full-service gas station.  Later, thebuilding served as an engine rebuilding shop and antiqueshop before being renovated and converted into a muse-um for vintage and modern motorcycles.  Visit the muse-um to view over 65 motorcycles dating from 1908 topresent.  Admire the streamlined designs, and see howthe bikes evolved over time.  Chandler Route 66 Interpretive Center -Chandler

For an interactive take on the history of Route 66, lookno further than the Route 66 Interpretive Center inChandler.  Housed inside a native sandstone armory built

by the WPA in the ‘30s, the Interpretive Center offers afresh spin on the Route 66 story.  Using visuals andsound, a sensory experience is created for each visitor.Sit back and watch firsthand videos chronicling Route66.  Learn about attractions lost through the years, expe-rience lodging as it used to be, and hop in the driver’sseat (literally) to take a virtual “ride” down Route 66.Waylan’s Ku-Ku Burger - Miami

On your way through Miami, whether you want a sit-down meal or prefer drive-thru, Waylan’s Ku-Ku Burgeron Route 66 is sure to cure your food cravings.  Thisunique place can’t be missed.  The building resembles acuckoo clock, right down to the giant yellow cuckoo birdpopping out of the roof and this little fast food restauranthas become a steadfast Route 66 icon.  Waylan’s Ku-KuBurger has been a Miami staple since the ‘60s, when itwas one location of a national chain.  Now it’s the onlyWaylan’s left, and people keep coming back for the deli-cious hamburgers, ku-ku fries, tator tots, fried pickles,buffalo burgers, chili dogs and so much more.  Don’t for-get about dessert: a dip cone, sundae or malt will satisfyany sweet tooth

. Blue Whale - Catoosa

What’s big, blue, wears a baseball cap and has a greatsmile?  Put on the brakes for the one and only Blue

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The Big Blue Whale in Catoosa, Oklahoma isstill one of the most famous stops on Route66. Photo courtesy Carol M. Highsmith.

Whale of Catoosa.  The Blue Whale was constructed inthe early ‘70s as an anniversary gift and became a localswimming hole attraction.  Today visitors are invited tostop by and say, “Hello!” to the jovial cement mammal.Enjoy lunch on the picnic tables and marvel at the nov-elty of a landlocked whale in northeastern Oklahoma.Make sure to take plenty of pictures of this unusual road-side attraction along Route 66.JM Davis Arms & Historical Museum - Claremore

Explore a world of amazing collections at therenowned J.M. Davis Arms & Historical Museum.  This

museum, located in Claremore justoff Route 66, holds an extensivearsenal of firearms  whose originsspan the globe and the centuries,including guns used by notoriouscriminals like Pretty Boy Floyd andPancho Villa.  In addition to this fas-cinating collection, there are thou-sands of other interesting items ondisplay.  WWI posters, vintage cam-paign ribbons, antique saddles,Western memorabilia and other arti-facts give a fascinating look intoAmerica’s past.

Route 66 Vintage Iron Motorcycle Museum -Miami

See an amazing collection of more than 40 antiquemotorcycles at Route 66 Vintage Iron in Miami.  This isa must-stop destination for motorcycle fans, and ifyou’re not one yet, you might be converted here.  Strollthrough an array of motorcycles, including classics likea 1917 Harley Davidson and a very rare 1919 GCS.Admire the wall of vintage helmets, then visit the giftshop for a souvenir or motorcycle accessories.  Route 66Vintage Iron also showcases Evel Knievel memorabilia,such as his jump helmet, personal items and a set of hisx-rays.  Will Rogers Memorial Museum - Claremore

View the inspiring life of Oklahoma statesman WillRogers on display at the Will Rogers Memorial Museumin Claremore.  Exhibits of art, documents and artifacts inthe museum detail Rogers’ life as a trick roper, actor andwriter, among other things.  Watch movies featuring theentertainer in the on-site theater; his films are playedthere all day, every day.  Rare original posters from hisfilms cover the walls of the museum.  Rogers’ tomb islocated on the museum grounds, with his signature quotecarved there: “I never met a man I didn’t like.”  Immerseyourself in the life of Will Rogers and find out why hewas an important figure, not only  in Oklahoma, butacross the nation and around the globe. Afton Station - Afton

A restored 1930s full-service gas station in Afton payshomage to the history of Route 66.  Swing by AftonStation to purchase maps and books for your Route 66drive.  See iconic Route 66 signs and picture postcardsshowing the landscape along the highway as it used tobe.  Be transported back to the highway’s heyday in thegleaming chrome, shiny paint and timeless designs of themany classic cars on display, including a fantastic col-lection of Packards.  Roger Miller Museum - Erick

One of country music’s most influential artists is hon-ored at the Roger Miller Museum in Erick.  The muse-um, located along Route 66 in downtown Erick, givesvisitors a firsthand look into the life of Roger Miller.Miller grew up in Erick and was one of the most cele-brated musicians of his time.   Many of Miller’s person-al items are on display, including his army shirt, highschool FFA jacket and childhood photos.  Artifacts fromhis career in music are also on display; handwrittenlyrics, stage clothing, gold records and awards tell thestory of his successful career.

Browse more on Route 66 attractions and road tripideas in Oklahoma, click here.

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Colinsville, at the west end of theNational Road in Illinois, is home tothe World’s Largest Catsup Bottle!

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As Charles Kuralt tagged US 40 “The road thatbuilt the nation”, the National Road has been amain thoroughfare for people and goods since it’s

conception.General George Washington had the idea to build the

National Road, but it did not become a reality untilPresident Thomas Jefferson passed the bill in 1806.Construction on the “Road” began in Cumberland,

Maryland in 1811 and reached Illinois around 1830.Constructed to be the security against European control,the National Road is now the infrastructure that carriesthousands of people daily for business and pleasure.

The 164 mile Historic National Road of Illinoiswas designated a National Scenic Byway in 2000and was named An All American Road in 2002, theonly Byway in Illinois to achieved that honor.

If your interest is in record breaking “big” things,you will find plenty to delight you on the “Road”. InMartinsville

You will find the World’s Largest RacingHorseshoe, built in memory of Dale Baird,renowned thoroughbred horse trainer with 9,445wins to his name. Casey is known as “Big Thingsin a Small Town”, with the World’s Largest WindChimes. New “Big” things are erected regularly

including Golf Tee, Knitting Needles, Crochet Hook,Pencil, and Rocking Chair. Collinsville at the west end ofthe National Road is home to the World’s Largest CatsupBottle.

Lincoln comes alive along the Historic National Roadof Illinois. Marshall, on the Eastern end of Illinois boostthe State’s Oldest Hotel. As a circuit riding lawyer,Lincoln stayed in the Archer House when in town.Greenup is the site for a Covered Bridge that as a youngman of 22, Abraham Lincoln split the logs for the origi-nal bridge to be built. Thomas Lincoln, Abraham’s

Historic National Road of Illinois: a Journey of Past and Present

By Molly J. Bellamey and Kevin Limestall

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Above right: ArcherHouse, Marshall, IL.Below: World’s LargestWind Chimes, Casey, IL.

father, owned a farm just 11 miles north of thebridge. Vandalia, Illinois’ former capitol, waswhere Lincoln learned all about politics, the law,and the Underground Railroad.

Car enthusiast will enjoy the Corvette andVolkswagen collection of Mike Yeager’s MYGarage Museum. For older cars, visit theGateway Classic Cars and Museum with its105,000 square foot showroom in Fairmont City.

Relive history with all the museums and one-room schools houses lining the National Road.If bridges are your thing, you can find a stonearch bridge that is 185 years old still used by overa thousand people every day and a coveredbridge that is the longest, single-span coveredbridge that has no weight limit. CahokiaMounds, six miles west of the Mississippi Riveris Illinois’ only World Heritage Site and locationof the largest prehistoric mounds north ofMexico. A tour of the Mounds and InterpretiveCenter will reflect the lives of our NativeAmericans.22 • Byways

21 Kiosks along the National Road in Illinois providehistorical information about the road and a bit of localhistory.

The National Road Interpretive Centerin Vandalia, IL provides information,displays, and photos detailing thehistory of the National Road.

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Foot high pie at Blue SpringsCafé in Highland, IL.

Take a break from your journey in one of our nation-ally recognized restaurants. Miles away from town, theMoonshine Store of Martinsville, is a favorite stop fortourists. Two employees are famous for making 3251Moon burgers in 7 hours. The rustic setting is the placeto step back in time.

Casey’s Whitling Whimsy, a quaint eatery next to theWorld’s Largest Wind Chime. Effingham’s WorldRenowned Firefly Grill is the Organic option along theHistoric National Road of Illinois. For pie that is a foothigh, you will want to stop at the BlueSprings Café in Highland. Finish off yourevening with a glass of wine from CameoWinery, Tuscan Hills Winery, or theCopper Dock Winery.

As you travel along the “HistoricNational Road” here in Illinois, be sureand check out the twenty one recentlyinstalled wayside Kiosks located alongthe “Road”. They provide historicalinformation about the National Road inIllinois and a bit of local history.

Make sure to watch our YouTubevideos at Illinois National Road. Whenplanning your trip to Illinois’ NationalRoad, visit www.NationalRoad.org, likeus on Facebook, or phone 888-268-0042.About the Authors: Molly Bellamey,

a life-long resident of Illinois, is a BoardMember of the National Road

Association of Illinois, Mollyis the author of Patch On TheNational Road.Kevin Limestall, Board

President, has led the all-vol-unteer National RoadAssociation of Illinois for the

last several years as it has faced a number of challengesalong the 164 mile National Road Heritage Corridor,

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Several of the 164 destinations you can find as you travel theHistoric National Road in Illinois!.

Like us on FaceBook! www.nationalroad.org

National Road Association of Illinois

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The Cahokia Mounds, six miles west of the MississippiRiver, is Illinois’ only World Heritage Site. It is the location

of the largest prehistoric mounds north of Mexico.

KENTUCKY’SCOUNTRYMUSIC HIGHWAY

Polly Judd was show-ing me around theHighlands Museum

and Discovery Center. Shestopped at a model of alarge tugboat, the kind thatmoves mega-ton barges up

and down the Ohio and Mississippi Rivers. “I used to cook on a boat like this, lived on it, actual-

ly” she said. “I had as many as 15 to cook for. I was theonly woman. They treated me well… nobody wanted tomake the cook mad.”

Polly is in her eighties. She lives nearby. She is notnormally at the museum. I was with somefolks who knew her and they called ahead.She was there to greet us.

This is Ashland, just north of I-64 in east-ern Kentucky. It’s one of the biggest portson the Ohio River, shipping a lot of coal.For a town of 24,000, it has a large numberof native notables, three from one familyand most in the country music business.

In fact, that’s what brought me here. I amtouring Kentucky’s “Country MusicHighway,” Highway 23 that runs throughthe Appalachian hills on the eastern edge ofthe state.

A big space in this museum is devoted toPolly’s daughter, Naomi Judd and her twogranddaughters Wynonna and Ashley.Naomi was born here in 1946. She wasmarried and had Wynonna before she grad-uated from high school. Naomi’s seconddaughter, Ashley, was born later when theylived for a short time in California.

“We always had a piano in the house,”Polly said, “but Wynonna took to a guitarthat Naomi gave her. Times were toughthen. Tempers and money were short, butthere was always beautiful harmony in theirmusic. In 1979 they went to Nashville andthe next thing ya know, I’m seeing them ontelevision. I was very proud…still am.”

Throughout the 1980s, it looked like therewas no end to the success of the singing

duo. But in 1990, Naomi was diagnosed with HepatitisC. After eight years at the top, she had no choice but toretire. The Judds had a Farewell Tour across the countryin 1991 that was the top grossing concert act of that year.

Ashley has had a suc-cessful career in acting and is perhaps best known for herleading roles in the films Kiss the Girls, DoubleJeopardy and High Crimes.

“When ‘Wy’ and Ashley come home, they raid thedrawer with the junk food and go up in the attic to check

Traveling the Highways & Bywayswith Bill Graves

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on their toys,” Polly said. “Naomi, on the other hand,likes to walk through the neighborhood where she grewup. Their roots are definitely here.”

Eastern Kentucky is steeped in musical history. Themusical talent that has developed in the hills south ofhere includes Loretta Lynn, Billy Ray Cyrus, Tom T.Hill, Ricky Skaggs, Keith Whitley, Dwight Yoakam,Gary Stewart, Patty Loveless, Crystal Gayle and more.

There are music venues all along Highway 23, 144miles of it. In Ashland, it’s the Paramount Arts Center

with its 1400-seat theater. The Paramount is one of thosegrand movie theaters built in the early thirties. Gonewith the Wind was so popular here seating was by reser-vation.

The focus of these venues is on the country and blue-grass stars of the future. At the Paramount, I was able tosee a young singer named Stephen Saylers. Stephen isgood. But will he hit it big like the Judds? Who knows?But coming from eastern Kentucky is a good start.

Polly and the Judds. Photocourtesy Bill Graves.

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The U.S. 23 Country Music Highway Museum inPaintsville is dedicated to the country musicianswho grew up near U.S. 23 in Kentucky.

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Music fans worldwide have a new tourism desti-nation with the launch of the Americana MusicTriangle, a preservation project along a 1,500-

mile stretch of highway that birthed nine uniquelyAmerican genres of music -- Blues, Jazz, Country, Rock& Roll, R&B/Soul, Gospel, Southern Gospel,Cajun/Zydeco and Bluegrass.

Spanning more than 30 communities along the “GoldRecord Road” (the Natchez Trace Parkway, I-10,Highway 90, Highway 61 and I-40), the AmericanaMusic Triangle is a milestone collaboration of culturalattractions across the South. The ambitious projectmarks the culmination of more than three years of workby a multi-state team of historians, musicians, tourismprofessionals and digital media experts.

The mission: Launch a global grassroots movement

for American music tourism and build an online com-munity dedicated to the Triangle’s culture and history.An online “webguide” establishes the Triangle’s digitalfootprint. Social media channels will educate and inspirea global audience with an online marketing campaign.Collateral materials and merchandise will be distributedin partnership with state and local tourism agenciesacross the region.

There are five driving tours to experience theAmericana Music Trail:

• New Orleans to Natchez• Vicksburg to Memphis• Memphis to Nashville• Nashville to Muscle Shoals• Tupelo to New Orleans

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Americana Music Triangle Launched

Each of the driving tours is described in great detail atthe Americana Music Triangle’s website at:http://americanamusictriangle.comAubrey Preston, a proprietor of Nashville’s RCA

Studio A and founder of the Americana Music Triangle,said the project is an outgrowth of hundreds of conver-sations over the past four years.

“With focused online outreach, we can reach countlessmusic fans worldwide and motivate them to visit theAmericana Music Triangle,” Preston said.

“The Triangle is a unique destination where historymade music, then music made history. There’s no otherplace like it in the world.”

“This is a landmark preservation and com-munity-linking movement aimed to eraseborders and celebrate the music that hasshaped this country and our culture,” saidEllie Westman Chin, president and CEO ofthe Williamson County Convention andVisitors Bureau. “International travel is afast-growing market. Through this project,we now have the tools necessary to worktogether, across states, to share a compre-hensive story with a global audience.”

“Mississippi is the heart of the AmericanaMusic Triangle, so the launch of the AMTweb guide is a very exciting event for us,”said Malcolm White, director of VisitMississippi. “Our country’s musical tradi-tion was shaped and molded by the talented

people of our state and the surrounding region. We notonly have marked music trails telling of musical legends,their influences, and the history of area that gave birth tothe blues, but we also make sure music remains a largepart of our culture. We are so happy to have AMT’s assis-tance guiding people as they experience the richAmerican music story.”

So now you can follow the Gold Record Road throughthe Americana Music Triangle, the first-ever compre-hensive collection of historical, musical and culturalattractions that define the birthplace of the country’sgreatest cultural export. Pick a route, pack a bag, andexperience the very places where history made music,then music made history.

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Tina Turner Museum on the grounds of the WestTennessee Delta Heritage Center, Brownsville, TN.Turner has sold more concert tickets than any othersolo performer in history.

Birthplace of Elvis Presley, Tupelo, MS.

West Virginia’s Mountain Music Trail providesvisitors the opportunity to experience localmusic and culture in historic venues, as well as

at festivals celebrating the region’s heritage.The Mountain Music Trail consists of venues through-

out five counties in eastern West Virginia that cametogether to promote and present the traditional music,dance, and folkways of the Allegheny Mountain region.Several months ago, the WestVirginia Public Broadcastingproduction team took to theroad to capture the essence ofthe trail, which runs throughTucker, Randolph, Pocahontas,Greenbrier and Monroe coun-ties.

West Virginia Commissionerof Tourism Amy ShulerGoodwin said, “The musicalcommunity in West Virginia hasalways been a very vibrant andactive part of the MountainState’s heritage and we areexcited to be able to share theirstories with the world.”

“I am so pleased to see theMountain Music experiencecome to life in five countiesalong Route 219. There are somany talented musicians in our

area and by creating a destination trail this only addsmore for us to offer visitors and residents,” Brenda Pritt,Executive Director of the Randolph County CVB said.

“Randolph County certainly has an advantage when itcomes to tourism -- with heritage, arts culture, history,theaters, trains and now the Mountain Music Trail fea-turing songs and stories from wonderful musicians.”

“The Augusta Heritage Center is one of many organ-izations doing an incredible job of preserving and teach-

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West Virginia’s Mountain Music Trail

The Augusta Heritage Center. Photoscourtesy Randolph County Convention& Visitors Bureau.

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ing the many traditions found along the Mountain MusicTrail,” Vasilia Scouras, Associate Producer of MountainStage said. "Performances by the Davis & ElkinsAppalachian Ensemble are a perfect example of passingdown tradition while keeping it fresh and relevant for agrowing audience.”

“The Mountain Music Trail is revealing West Virginiaas a destination for live music. Traveling 219, you willfind endless places to stop and catch a live show, such as

Mountain State Brewing Company. Not only are theyone of the largest breweries in the state but they alsopride themselves in being a music destination,” JessicaScowcroft, Executive Director of the Tucker CountyCVB said.

The Mountain Music Trail is a great partnership, withfive counties and Wild, Wonderful West Virginia work-ing together to promote all of the wonderful music youcan experience just by traveling 219.

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Jamming at the Augusta Heritage Center.

The Crooked Road is Virginia’s Heritage MusicTrail, a 330-mile driving route through theAppalachian Mountains of Southwest Virginia.

From the eastern slopes of the Blue Ridge to theCoalfield region of Virginia, the trail connects eightmajor heritage music venues with a thriving network ofjams, festivals, and concerts in the communities alongthe way.

America’s music was invented here. It has been madefor hundreds of years in the southern Appalachian moun-tain region of Southwest Virginia. The songs and tunes ofthe region told the stories of early pioneer life, of immi-grant experiences, and of day-to-day trials and tribula-tions. The influences which are felt in the music comefrom many traditions. The ballads of the early Scots-Irishand settlers of the British Isles are evident, as are theirinstruments, such as the fiddle. The blues and worksongs of laborers of African heritage are also evident,along with instruments such as the banjo. The mountaindulcimer and the autoharp have connections to thezithers of European ancestry, while the ukulele and theguitar were popular parlor instruments.

Major Venues of The Crooked Road On the eastern end of The Crooked Road, hugging the

eastern slopes of the Blue Ridge Mountains, is the offi-cial State Center for Blue Ridge Folklife: the Blue RidgeInstitute & Museum at Ferrum College. The BRI gal-leries explore folklife’s many facets -- music, crafts,foodways, decorative arts and more -- through rotatingexhibitions.

Heading westward along The Crooked Road, you willtravel to Floyd, VA, home of the Floyd Country Storeand the Friday Night Jamboree. Visitors will find barrelsof old-fashioned candy, a lunch counter with homemadecountry food and hand-dipped ice cream, and fascinatingfinds from toys to overalls to kitchenware.floydcountrystore.comNear Galax, VA, in Grayson and Carroll Counties is

the Blue Ridge Music Center, located on the scenic BlueRidge Parkway at Milepost 213. Some of the mostrespected pickers and singers in the country perform atthe weekend concerts. Every day from late May untilOctober’s leafs fall you can hear favorite regional musi-

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Virginia’s 330-MileCrooked Road

Music Trail

Floyd Country Store, home of the FridayNight Jamboree. Photo courtesy FloydCountry Store. 

cians playing Mid-Day MountainMusic and you can visit The Rootsof American Music museum that isfree and open daily. BlueRidgeMusicCenter.org.Just down the road in Galax,

you’ll find the Rex Theater, hometo rousing bluegrass and old timemusical performances every Fridaynight on the Blue Ridge Backroadsbroadcast on WBRF, reaching fivestates. Galax is also the home ofMoose Lodge #733 and the OldFiddlers Convention, the oldest andlargest such convention in theworld.

The area’s rich musical heritagehas earned Galax its status as the“World's Capital of Old TimeMountain Music.”

Driving west out of Galax on Highway 58 you’ll arriveat the architecturally stunning Heartwood, SouthwestVirginia’s Artisan Gateway and home of The CrookedRoad, in Abingdon, VA. Heartwood connects visitorsalong The Crooked Road to regional artisan studios,music venues, craft trails, scenic attractions, and more. heartwoodvirginia.orgA few miles south is the official “Birthplace of

Country Music,” Bristol, VA/TN. Bristol is home to theBirthplace of County Music Alliance, where countrymusic devotees continue a tradition that began with

Ralph Peer’s historic recording sessions of 1927 -- TheBig Bang of Country Music. Bristol’s music continuesmost nights in restaurants and clubs along State Streetand swells to fill the city during the Rhythm and RootsReunion in September, when three days of concerts,jams and performances bring thousands of music loversto more than 20 stages up and down Bristol’s main street.

Just north of Bristol in Hiltons is The Carter FamilyFold, where live traditional music and dancing has takenplace every Saturday night since 1974. The Carter Foldis a rustic, 800-plus seat music shed offering traditionalmusic every Saturday night. Museum opens an hour pri-or to the show.

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Wayne Henderson & Friends at the Carter Family Fold.Photo courtesy Jonathan Romeo for The Crooked Road. 

Crooked Road Wayside Kiosk at Grayson Highlands StatePark. Photo courtesy Jonathan Romeo for The Crooked Road.

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The Carter Family (A.P. Carter, his wife Sara and hissister-in-law Maybelle) were discovered in 1927 byVictor Recording Studio in Bristol and recorded 300songs between 1927 and 1942. Playing traditionalAppalachian music, the family is often credited as fore-runners of modern-day country music.http://www.carterfamilyfold.orgAs U.S. 23 passes through the communities of Scott

and Wise Counties, you’ll make your way to the CountryCabin, located at the Appalachian Traditions village out-side Norton.

The Crooked Road’s western end boasts the RalphStanley Museum and Traditional Mountain MusicCenter in Clintwood, VA. It features the life and music ofthe legendary music performer. Dr. Stanley donated anextensive collection of memorabilia, ranging from vin-tage instruments to countless musical awards to themuseum. www.ralphstanleymuseum.com

Affiliated Partners of The Crooked Road Nestled between the nine major venues of The

Crooked Road are dozens of jams, festivals, and concertsthat enrich the communities along the Trail. Regularweekly jam sessions are held all along The CrookedRoad, and annual events such as Floydfest and BristolRhythm & Roots Reunion are attended by music loversfrom all over the world.

Navigating The Trail The Crooked Road route is identified by highway

signs designating the route. Wayside exhibits dot thecommunities along the Trail, offering travelers a fun wayto learn about local music, history, and heritage.

Travelers simply drive up to any Crooked Road way-side exhibit and tune their car radios to the frequencythat’'s posted on the kiosk. Then, they’ll be treated to asampling of local music, along with highlights of thearea’s musicians and heritage music attractions.

Joe Wilson's A Guide to The Crooked Road offers anin-depth look at the venues, partners, and culture of TheCrooked Road region. The book features a two-CD com-panion guide with music from all along the Trail.Purchase it online at The Crooked Road’s official web-site, or pick up a copy in one of your stops along theTrail. Across the Miles

From one end of the Trail to the other, The CrookedRoad is a historic cultural landscape that has seen gener-ation upon generation of musicians carrying on a tradi-tion that’s still very much alive today. It is an opportunityfor travelers to experience over 200 years of the heritageand music of beautiful Southwest Virginia.

For additional information, visit us online atwww.thecrookedroad.org

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New York Family Road Trip:First Stop, Rochester

Downtown Rochester, New York. Photo courtesy Visit Rochester.

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By Jennifer Maxwell

Though this city in upstate NY is only 3 hours fromour home in Toronto, we had never visited. Butwe’ll definitely be back. We couldn’t have asked

for a more welcoming beginning for our annual summerroad trip than this engaging and family-friendly metrop-olis.Strong National Museum of Play

“Look, it’s the Oscar the Grouch trash can,” I excited-ly pointed out to my two kids. They shrugged, clearly notimpressed. They had never watched Sesame Streetgrowing up, unlike their mother, who had watched it reli-giously. A wave of nostalgia hit me as I looked aroundthe set of my beloved show, and I cajoled my kids to takea picture with me on the green steps in front of the reddoor, beside which the famed trash can stood.

The kids were considerably more enthusiastic whenwe were exploring the History of Electronic Gamesexhibition, where the second wave of nostalgia almostknocked me over. Here were the games I had wastedmany a lunch hour playing as a teenager -- DonkeyKong, Space Invaders, Pac-Man and Centipede, my all-time favorite. “Hey, you’re actually good at videogames,” my very surprised son said, after watching meplay. He was also shocked that we used to play a gamecalled Pong. 38 • Byways

Sesame Street-Big Bird.Photo courtesy Strong Museum of Play.

Courtesy National Museum of Play at The Strong.

Other exhibitions at this museum, dedicated entirely toplay, included an extensive doll collection, a kid-sizedsupermarket and a 1918 carousel.

All that playing worked up an appetite, so we headedover to nearby Dinosaur BBQ. “Best ribs ever,” my sondeclared. The fun, honky-tonk décor and toe-tappingmusic made for a mighty fine atmosphere to enjoy themin too.House Boating on the Erie Canal

Connecting the Atlantic Ocean to inland cities andports of the Great Lake system, the Erie Canal catapult-ed Rochester into prosperity in the early 19th century.Though it no longer transports much freight, it remainsan engineering marvel and is one of the most scenicways to explore the region. We climbed aboard a charm-ing red and green, wooden canal houseboat supplied byMid-Lakes Navigation to do just that.

Our adventure started with a lesson, where we learnedthe ropes. “It’s not difficult,” said owner Sarah Wiles,explaining that quite a few of her customers are first-timeboaters. We quickly found out the number one rule ofhouse boating -- waving. As we cruised down the canalat a relaxing 5 miles an hour pace, bicyclists and otherboaters waved and our family happily returned the greet-ing.

“It really doesn’t matter what your destination is,” saidWiles. “It’s all about enjoying the moment.”

The woods and countryside that we passed were tran-

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Locks on the Erie Canal are capable of raisingand lowering boats up to 50 feet at a time.Photo courtesy Jennifer Maxwell.

Erie Canal houseboat. Photo courtesy Jennifer Maxwell.

quil, and wildlife sightings have included bald eagles,king fishers and deer. The vessels also come with bikes,so house boaters can explore the land as well as thewater, including the scenic Erie Canal Trail that runs 360miles from Buffalo to Albany.

The most interesting part of our boating lesson wasgoing through one of the Canal’s 57 locks. Completelyauthentic and using the original 19th century technology,these “water gates” are capable of raising and loweringboats up to 50 feet at a time. The lock keeper opened thegate for us, and under Wiles’ command, the kids went towork, grabbing the ropes along the sides to hold the boatin place while the water level lowered. It didn’t take longfor us to sink far below thebanks, and it seemed asthough we were at the bot-tom of a giant well. Then,we were lifted back upagain and once againcruising on the canal,basking in the sunshine.

The beauty of a houseboat is that your hotelroom is wherever you hap-pen to be. We moored inthe center of the historicvillage of Fairport, locatedabout nine miles east ofRochester. Here weenjoyed a hearty pub mealat Donnelly’s and ice-cream at MoonlightCreamery, before weretired back to the boat.We were docked besidethe Lift Bridge on Main

Street, an architecturally unique, 10-sided structure, withno two angles the same. However, the 1913 steel bridgeclanged and rattled loudly whenever a vehicle crossed it,so although the berths were comfortable, we didn’t getmuch sleep. Next time, we’ll dock a little further downthe canal.

We would have loved to continue our cruise, and per-haps explore the “It’s a Wonderful Life” bridge and 50-foot double locks in Seneca Falls, or just lazily floatdown the canal enjoying the views. But the highway wascalling, and we were on a road trip, after all.

Stay tuned for Part 2 of our New York Family RoadTrip, Ithaca and New York City, upcoming in Byways.

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Erie Canal. Courtesy of Sheridan Vincent Photography.

EGAME-arcade. Photo courtesy ofStrong Museum of Play.

About the Author. After teaching English as a Second Language abroad for 7years, Jennifer has now “settled down” in Toronto. But her feet continue to itch andshe now travels whenever she can with her family, writing about their adventuresin numerous diverse publications, including Buffalo News, Latitudes, VirginAtlantic Blog, Ontario Magazine, Forever Young, Montreal Families, vacay.caand Today's Parent.

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House boating on the Erie Canal. Photo courtesy Jennifer Merrick.

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L'Anse-Saint-Jean - Fjord du Saguenay de l'Anse de Tabatiere. Photo courtesy © Yves Ouellet.

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Quebec’s Saguenay Lac Saint-Jean: Visiting the Region of Giants

By Jennifer Merrick

C’est Géant’ is the catchphrase for the SaguenayLac Saint-Jean region located 125 miles north ofQuebec City. Literally, it means “It’s Giant,’ but it

doesn’t translate well. In French, it encompasses more, referring not only to

the vast glacially-sculpted landscapes and the deep fjordedged with 350m-high cliffs, but also the region’s per-sonality.

A strong sense of place exists here, and you can seeand feel it in the area’s culture, history and people. Ourtrip was filled with gigantic -- in every sense of the word-- adventures and sights, and here are a few of the high-lights:Val-Jalbert Historical Village

One of the best preserved ghost towns in Canada, thispulp-mill company town was abandoned at the end ofthe 1920s, leaving behind wooden homes, a school, gen-eral store, the mill itself, and according to some, a fewghostly residents. We didn’t encounter any other-world-ly folks when we spent the night in one of the restoredhomes, but we did get a glimpse of life in another era. Welearned about a time when strict nuns ruled the school, 8-44 • Byways

Chapelle Tableau. Photo courtesy©Jean Tanguay

Ste-Rose automne Saguenay.Photo courtesy ©Jean Tanguay.

children families were the norm, and the indoor wash-rooms and electricity the village homes had were con-sidered the ultimate in modern living.

The focal point of the town is Ouiatchouan Falls,which at 260 feet is higher than Niagara Falls. The namemeans white, boiling water in Innu, and its powerful andstunning cascades can be viewed from a glass platformlookout, or just as you wander through the village itself.

Another view to remember, this one of Lac Saint-Jean,one of Quebec’s largest lakes, can be admired out ofbreath by climbing the 751 stairs to the top, or more eas-ily by chairlift.

Meals are served at the restaurant inside the thick stonewalls of the mill. Chef Carl Murray, whose great grand-father worked in Val-Jalbert, honors the heritage of theplace with locally sourced menu items, including spicesindigenous to the Boreal Region.http://www.valjalbert.com/en

Musée du Fjord“Fjords are u-shaped valleys that were bulldozed by

glaciers,” explains Brad Clark at the Musée du Fjord.The Saguenay Fjord, at 62 miles long and almost 245feet deep, is one of the largest in the world.

Besides its natural beauty, the glacial river boasts aunique eco-system comprised of both salt and freshwater species. Armed with shovels and wearing rubberboots, we learn firsthand about the fjords inhabitants onthe Life between Land and Sea excursion. Kids andadults alike are thrilled to find clams, shrimps and otherorganisms with the help of our guides.

Back inside, we explore the aquariums and exhibi-tions. The highlight is the touch pool where we hold a

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Musee du Fjord. Photo courtesy Jennifer Merrick.

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Vallee Eternite Saguenay.Photo courtesy ©Jean Tanguay.

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slimy sea cucumber, a star fish and other creatures of thefjord.www.museedufjord.com/en/

Fjord-du-Saguenay ParkKayaking on the fjord is one of the best ways to expe-

rience its grandeur. Low to the water, there’s a connec-tion to the nature that surrounds you.

Several outfitters offer rentals and guided tours,including OrganisAction, who offer 3-hour excursionsout of Fjord -du-Saguenay Park. At this 123-square-mileprovincial park we set off on our paddling adventure,awestruck by the 650 ft-cliffs that tower above us.Peregrine Falcon nest here and sometimes seals bathe inthe sun below. It’s a phenomenal place and the longer wepaddled, the tinier I felt compared to the fjord’s awe-someness.

Also at the park are camping sites, rustic shelters and60 miles of hiking trails, including a challenging trek toCap Éternité, which takes visitors up to a 23 ft.-high stat-ue of the Virgin Mary. Placed here at the top of the tow-ering cliffs by a travelling salesman who credited his48 • Byways

Val-Jalbert HistoricalVillage.Kayaks in the Fjord du Saguenay.

close escape from death to her divine intervention, themuch-loved landmark has greeted ships and visitorssince 1881

Other parks in the region include Point-Taillon, MontsValin and Saguenay-St. Lawrence Marine Park. At thelatter, visitors can observe the most famous of theregion’s giants -- whales!

Thirteen species, including the endangered Beluga andthe Blue Whale migrate in summer to feed off the richkrill found where the fresh water of the fjord meets thesalt water of the St. Lawrence.

Incidentally, the Blue Whale at 30 metres in length andover 180 tonnes in weight, is one of the largest creatureson our planet. Giant, you could say, like the region itself.

More adventures in the region include, spottingmoose, bears, elk and other indigenous wildlife  on atrain “safari” through the Nature Trail Park at the SaintFelicien Zoo; climbing into the cockpit of a jet fighter atthe Air Defence Museum; sleeping in a treehouse at JapJaseux Park; and spelunking at the Le Parc de la cavernedu Trou de la Fée. To find out more information aboutSaguenay Lac Saint-Jean, visit: https://www.saguenaylacsaintjean.ca/enBonne Voyage!

About the Author. After teachingEnglish as a Second Language abroadfor 7 years, Jennifer has now “settleddown” in Toronto. But her feet continueto itch and she now travels whenever

she can with her family, writing about their adventures innumerous diverse publications, including Buffalo News,Latitudes, Virgin Atlantic Blog, Ontario Magazine,Forever Young, Montreal Families, vacay.ca and Today'sParent.

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Jap Jaseux Treehouse. Photocourtesy Jennifer Merrick.

View from Treehouse Balcony.Photo courtesy Jennifer Merrick.

The Glenn H. Curtiss Museum, often called one ofthe hidden gems of aviation history, has reached anew milestone as visitors from around the world

make their way to Hammondsport, N.Y. The destination, located in New York’s Finger Lakes

Region, has now eclipsed the 99% recommendationmark from guests using TripAdvisor, the globe’s top

website for traveler and tourist ratings and recommenda-tions.

“The phenomenal reaction by visitors to the Museumspeaks to the incredible stories we’re able to tell of howspeed, adventure and manned flight became one throughGlenn Curtiss, a true American hero who is at the heartof aviation as we know it,” said Scott Perkins, marketingservices director.

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New York’s Glenn H. Curtiss Museum, Hidden Gemof Aviation History, Reaches New Milestone

Exhibits at the Glenn H. Curtiss Museum.Photos courtesy by Bob Magee.

“At a time where the Wright Brothers are baskingin attention with the publication of DavidMcCullough’s new book, dedicated flying enthusiastsare seeking a more complete story of how man over-came gravity. With a visit to the Glenn H. CurtissMuseum, they are discovering the intriguing storiesof the Wrights’ chief competitor and threat, whoseinnovations and designs are still in use today.”

Curtiss is best known for his pioneering work inaviation. He is considered to be the founder of theAmerican aircraft industry and the father of U.S.naval aviation. He gained world recognition as an air-craft builder and pilot in 1909 when he won theGordon Bennett Trophy for speed at the FirstInternational Aviation Meet held in Reims, France.

A year later, Curtiss again furthered his eminence as apioneer aviator by making the first long distance flight inAmerica between two cities. In 1911 he mastered thetechnology associated with taking offand landing an

a i r c r a f ton water, thereby making the

seaplane and the flying boat practical realities. Thisled Curtiss to an association with the U.S. Navy thatbegan when he trained its first pilots and built the A-1,the first naval aircraft.

Visitors to the museum are able to experience a full-scale reproduction of the A-1. Additional Curtiss aircraftin the collection include a 1912 Pusher, a 1913 Model Eflying boat, a 1917 Jenny, a 1919 Seagull flying boat, anda 1927 Robin. From the Curtiss-Wright era (post 1929),included are a 1931 Junior, a ¾ scale P-40 and a rare C-46 WWII transport.

The museum contains a priceless collection relating toearly aviation and local history. The museum alsofeatures a 75-seat theater,large

open area for specialevents and a gift shop.

In addition to seeing the museum displays andexhibits, visitors are welcome to visit the RestorationShop, talk with volunteer craftsmen and watch themwork on historic aircraft.

The Glenn H. Curtiss Museum is open year-round inbeautiful Hammondsport, N.Y., named as America’sCoolest Small Town by readers of Budget Travel maga-zine and a top destination in New York’s Finger LakesRegion.

To learn more, visit GlennHCurtissMuseum.org orcall 607-569-2160.

What’s HappeningWhat’s Happening

Byways • 51

These are iconic voices that stand alone! The croon-ers -- those suave gentlemen and sophisticatedladies who defined musical cool with their

smooth, sentimental singing styles.Don’t miss Crooners, the 2016 AMT Original Show at

American Music Theatre in Lancaster, PA. A Broadway-caliber production that delivers toe-tapping, soul-sooth-ing, spirit-lifting entertainment right in the heart ofPennsylvania Dutch Country.

In this all-new AMT Original Show, our singers,dancers and orchestra celebrate the hits made famous byfamiliar and iconic crooners like Frank Sinatra,Rosemary Clooney, Tony Bennett, Ella Fitzgerald andBing Crosby, along with similarly soulful modern musi-cians like Michael Bublé, Harry Connick, Jr., DianaKrall and more.

Experience a five-star musical journey and travel fromthe infamous evenings when The Rat Pack owned LasVegas, to today, when the mellow sounds of our contem-porary crooners still help us escape our stresses andsoothe our spirits.

Relax in the comfort of our first-class theatre andenjoy the satisfying, serene sounds of these larger-than-life entertainers with American Music Theatre’s 2016Original Show: Crooners!About the American Music Theatre:

American Music Theatre is the only theatre of its kindin the country to feature both touring concerts andOriginal Shows. The 1,600-seat theatre hosts more than300 live performances a year and provides incredible

variety -- from Broadway tours and rock legends likeThe Beatles’ Ringo Starr and bands like Celtic WomanTour andG a i t h e rVocal Band,to famouscomedianslike JayLeno andeven fanf a v o r i t e slike OliviaNewton John, Harry Connick Jr., Tony Bennett, andYanni.

Since their debut in 1997, they’ve proudly welcomedGrammy, CMA, Tony, Emmy and Oscar winners totheir stage. They regularly feature some of the most tal-ented musicians, vocalists, and dancers from Broadwayin their own Original Shows. No other theatre in theregion offers a broader variety of performances yearround.

American Music Theatre’s mission is to continuallypromote a driven and diverse schedule of the top nation-ally touring artists and compelling musical productions.They strive to regularly collaborate with artists, guests,and team members to achieve a higher level of excel-lence each year. We hope you take this one-of-a-kindopportunity to enjoy a Broadway experience in thequaint, country-style comfort of one of the most premiervenues on the East Coast for live entertainment. Seemore at www.amtshows.com.

52 • Byways

2016 American Music Theatre Original Show: Crooners

Byways • 53

Byways is published bi-monthly by Byways, Inc. and distributed electronically throughout North America.Byways is emailed to more than 4000 tour operators plus selected travel agencies through the internet. Subscriptionsare complimentary. An iPad & iPhone version is available for consumers in iTunes and Newsstand in the App Store.

Byways’ distribution includes motorcoach companies, tour operators, and selected travel agents, bank travel man-agers, school band and athletic planners, and meeting planners. For advertising rates, editorial deadlines, or to placeadvertising insertions, contact: Byways Magazine at 502-785-4875.

©Copyright 2015 by Byways, Inc. All rights reserved. No portion of this publication may be duplicated in anyform without express written permission of the publisher.

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Advertising Director502-785-4875

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