Organized by Sardar Vallabhbhai PatelInternational School of Textiles & Management, CoimbatorePeriod: 21 July to 9th August 14 Venue: SVPISTM Seminar HallCourse Material (9-11 Chapters)

Sponsored by Entrepreneurship Development Institute Chennai

9. Pattern Making To facilitate mass production of garments of standard sizes, pattern making is necessary First block pattern and base patterns are developed in the process of proto and fit sample development Using base pattern various size pattern are made through the process of grading to develop size set samples Nowadays Computer Aided Design is used extensively in the process of Pattern Making and Grading as it has got many advantages than manual process Body measurement and its importance towards Patten Drafting /Making Measurements are foundation for pattern drafting, and developing new design They are used to establish the body dimensions in terms of size and shapes It is used to determine the body symmetry for a personal fit It is used as a reference for pattern correction It is time saving device when taken accurately

Points for taking measurement Tape used should be of good quality and marking should be clearly visible Take vertical measurement first and then the girth measurement Pull the tape snug, but not too tight, always around the fullest part of each body area, making sure to keep tape parallel to floor Follow certain order and record it then and then and there The figure in the following page shows the details of measurement for various garments Pattern Making Introduction Pattern of a garment is the blue print on the basis of the fabric is cut. The patterns can be prepared using strong brown papers, newspapers for rough drafts, strong white paper which is available in a variety of weights and widths, tracing paper or butter paper may be used to develop patterns.

Measurement for ShirtMeasurement for Trouser

Measurement for CoatMeasurement for coat

Measurement for louseMeasurement for Blouse

A basic pattern of a garment can be prepared by one of these two methods: by drafting by draping fabric on a model or person concerned

Drafting may be defined as a system of drawing patterns on paper with mechanical precision, on the basis of body measurements. The basic pattern developed on paper may be modified to develop patterns for varied styles. This is also called as flat pattern designing.. The basic pattern is also referred to as block, master or foundation pattern. Paper patterns are made or available in two types commercial patterns prepared on the bases of standard measurements Patterns drafted using personal measurements. Commercial Patterns

Commercial patterns are usually done on tissue paper. Since tissue paper is not bulky, it allows many pieces of pattern to be packed compactly in an envelope. Good patterns are carefully labelled with the following information: pattern size, name of each pattern (back, front, sleeve, etc), number of pieces to cut from each pattern piece, pattern markings like notches, buttons and button hole position, seam allowances, grain lines, center front, center back, hem line markings, dart locations, etc. Some companies even give markings for pattern alteration locations. In addition instruction sheets explaining steps involved in using the pattern, to cut the garment, method of cutting specific fabrics with different textures and print, method of construction and fabric suitability. Commercial patterns for women and children are usually sized according to bust measurements. Pants and skirts according to waist, hip and length measurements. Hence before selecting the patterns, you should take the body measurements accurately and buy the correct size. The measurements are listed on the pattern envelope in some of the good commercial patterns. Pattern DraftingInstruction for beginnersTo learn drafting, it is essential for beginners to practice the diagrams on a board. The following equipment required for this purposeDrafting and Cutting Table: Size 120 x 75 cmTailors Square: it is a wooden square with one of 30 cm long and the other arm of 53 - 61 cm longMeasure Tape: it is used for taking measurements as well as for drafting pattern diagrams. It is 152 cm long and 1.25 cm wide with metal strip of 7.5 cm length on one side .It should be marked with cm one side and with inches other sideTailors Chalk : This wax Chalk is available in different colours. Use contrast but light colours. These marks will go during washing Brush: Brush with soft bristles is for cleaning/ removing loose threads in cutting

Pattern Drafting Exercise for Blouse Back

Pattern Drafting Exercise for Blouse Back

Pattern Drafting Exercise for Blouse Back

Point to Focus in Drafting Always draft a diagram from the right to the left side and from the nearest edge or fold of the cloth to the other end When drafting on a fourfold cloth, the diagram line should come exactly on folds, i.e While cutting shirt, pants etc., cut the front first and then back. In case waist coat, coat, overcoat etc., cut the back first and then the front As 1 cm seam allowance is included in all the drafts, do not keep any extra material outside the diagram, except for inlays and

Pattern Drafting Instruction Example: Plain Blouse

10. Pattern Grading and CAD Application Pattern grading can be classified as manual and machine pattern grading Manual pattern grading has four stages The preparation of grading Grading the patterns Checking the grades Completing the graded patterns To develop a systematic and efficient method of working, the routines within each stage should be followed closely.Manual Pattern Grading Preparation This is the first stage concerned with all the preparatory work before the actual grading is performeda) Locating Principle or Primary Axis (Primary X and Y axis) The pattern grading is a technique which in effect reproduces the construction of an original pattern in another size It follows therefore, that this reconstruction process should be based on the same construction lines as those which were used for the original pattern During grading there are two principal axis of movement for patterns, along the X and Y axis where the actual direction of movement is relative to the intersection of these two axis As these axis are right angle to each other, the pattern construction line are adhered to and alignment in both directions is maintained throughout the grading With the exemption of bias cuts the grain line of patterns provide a good reference for the X axis, from which y axis can be derived. Without exemption, the X and Y axis must always be marked on the base size pattern before starting any other preparatory work b) Locating Secondary Axis Apart from the X and Y axis, secondary axis are also needed, especially in connection with the length grades. A typical body garment could have up to thee length grades using :

Increment L for the arm hole depth grade Increment -L for the waist line to chest line grade Increment O for the balance of the garment length When required these secondary axis are marked on the paper parallel to the y axis C) Locating Origin Points These are the points from which the width grades start and they are mostly located at the intersection of pattern lines and the Y axis d) Locating Origin Lines This refers to a pattern line and/or axis which will be common to all the sizes graded for a particular component. These origin lines can be of two types, internal and external Internal origin line is used when the width grades for each size are made in two direction from the common origin External Origin line is the most frequently used method so when one edge of a pattern is common to all the sizes graded for the component . External origin line also makes checking simpler because the total width grades can easily be seen in comparison with one and another Location of origin line is a matter of choice and convenience because their position does not affect the final results of the grades

e) Increments The Diagram indicates component to be graded and together with positions of the grading increments to be used The table give the value of increments in millimetres for each of the two size intervals According to the chosen interval , the secondary axis for the length grades are measured form the y axis while the width grade are measure from the origin points if common external line is being used Where a grade is based on a common internal line, the width increment are measured from selected external points The value of increment F is measured from the origin point The value of increment G is measured from F The value of increment E is measured from G The same marking are repeated on the opposite side of the origin point for the reverse, up or down graded The combination of the length and width grade increments is referred to as the increment net

f) Sum-up for Manual Grading Work Mark the X and Y axis on the component to be graded Copy the base size pattern on to the paper and transfer the X and Y axis Establish the origin point of the grade Select or calculate the increment values which are appropriate to the size interval being graded Mark the length grade secondary axis parallel to serve as dual purpose axis Mark the width grade increments from the origin point ensuring that they are parallel to the X axis and that the lines intersect the length axis where they are to be used for a width grade on that particular axis The marking should be done with a sharp 1H or 2 H pencil or a fine pen For the novice pattern grader it would be advisable to use different coloured pens or pencils for each size As some of the grading increments are very small, it is easier to measure when they are used in multiples of more than one size Vector Grading In practice this means that instead of grading each individual size only the larges and smallest sizes required are graded from the base pattern. The external and relevant internal points of this Two-Size grades are then connected by means of line called a vector, which is not only use for deriving the intermediate sizes but also for checking the accuracy of the grading The distance along the vector is measured and then divided by the number of sizes between the base size and graded size plus one. For example, if the base size is 36 and the largest size in 44, there are thee sizes between them: 38, 40 and 42. Consequently the length of each vector between size 36 and size 44 would be divided by 4. i.e. three sizes plus one The following figure illustrate the example The points of each intermediate size are joined by using the original pattern, and the completed drawing is called a nested grade The next stage is to transfer each size to a separate sheet of paper, using an awl for the straight lines, pocket and dart position etc., and a needle type tracing wheel for the curved lines. With some experience only the vector points need to be transferred and the individual patterns can be completed with the base size pattern This stage of grading process requires lot of marking , tracing , cutting and notching and it can be performed efficiently by observing the guidelines

Checking While the vectors have a control function for individual components, it is always advisable to cross check the grades between constructionally related components For example, the length grades between the forepart, side body and back and those of sleeves This cross checking routine should be performed on both top cloth and lining components Completion This, the final stage , is concerned with preparing the patterns for issue to the cutting room: There is one cardinal principle involved: There should be no necessity for the cutting room staff to request information regarding the graded patterns In practical terms, this means that style numbers, sizes, grain lines , pocket and dart positions should be clearly marked, together with the type of material for the pattern is to be used, e. g. , cloth , lining, fusible and pocket linings, etc. Mechanical Grading As an alternative to wholly manual methods a mechanical grading machine can be employed This machine is clamped to the edge of the table and pattern is inserted into the sprung arms and held in position by small pins. Pattern movement is effected by means of two knobs, one for movement along the X axis and other for the Y axis. The grader controls the amount of movement by means of the calibrations along the track of each axis One of the advantages of using a hand operated grading machine is that it eliminates the need to mark axis and increments both on the pattern and paper and thus reduces preparation time and improve dimensional accuracy. However it is limited to x and y axis movement. Grading element requiring movements at different angle or completion of curve must be done manually

Working Methods in Grading There are no hard and fast rule as to how to actually produce the sets or graded patterns and the choice of working method is an individual question of accuracy and convenience Some of the mostly commonly used methods are Nest or stack grading Mark and Cut grading Vector grading

a) Nest and Stack Grading Method The base pattern is used to grade all the sizes and each component has a common origin for the sizes graded The actual cutting out can be done two ways A number of sheets of paper, equal to the pattern sizes required are stapled together and the components are cutout, starting with the largest size (Apart from not being particularly accurate method , there are many components which have over lapping and internal lines and this somewhat reduces the efficacy of this method) A single sheet of paper is held underneath the grade nest and each individual size is picked off with an awl or tracing wheel. The base size pattern is then used to complete the line necessary for cutting out. b) Mark and Cut Method This is a very commonly used method whereby one size at a time is graded and then cut out. The usual way of working with the method is to start by grading one size up or down from the base pattern and then to cut them out These patterns are then used for the next size up or down and the process is continued

c) Vector Grading This is sometimes called the Master Grade Method and is a very widely used variation of the Nest Grade Using common origin lines , the base pattern is graded to the largest and smallest sizes required for the particular set of patterns. Then the cardinal internal and external points are connected together by vector lines The distance between the points to which the vectors connect is measured and then divided by the number of size intervals between the largest and a smallest size. These divisions are marked on the vectors and are picked off or traced onto individual sheet of paper The base pattern is then used to connect up the points in order to produce the outline of the component. Grading Using CAD System The grading of pattern by computer is based on identifying where specific points on the pattern have to extended or reduced to create a new size These points are extended or reduced to create a by means of X and Y co-ordinates. The X and Y co-ordinates tell the computer the direction in which a point has to move; measurement have also to be given to identify the position of the new point A Grade Rule A grade rule is the instruction of how much a pattern increases, across a range of sizes, in X and Y co-ordinates at any control points. The rule can be applied at any other point that require increase Grade rule can be written in cm or mm or 1/10 of mm according to choice

Example: A grade rule for the shoulder Point The points are graded in mm The instructions (grade rule ) for shoulder point would be x= -4 y =4 between size 12 and 14

Grading Rule Libraries

11. Computer Aided Design in Clothing Manufacture Introduction When CAD was first established in clothing manufacture, it was very expensive and could therefore only be brought by large companies. The full process from design to manufacture is usually an investment made by manufacturer who make a particular type of garment in large quantities However small companies can benefit from particular elements of CAD The different processes of CAD can be of Great advantage to a company They can be described under the following headings Design and marketing Production Data Management Pattern Creation and Modification Sizing and made-to-measure Pattern Grading Lay planning and marker making Design and Marketing Technological advances during the 1990 have produced revolutionary changes in communications The Internet links the different sectors of the clothing industry and has become a vital part on many communication The Internet links the different sectors of the clothing industry and has become a vital part of many companies operation The Internet can link the designer with fabric and trimming suppliers, the garment manufacturer and the retailers many of which can be overseas. Technological advances during the 1990 have produced revolutionary changes in communications The Internet links the different sectors of the clothing industry and has become a vital part on many communication The Internet links the different sectors of the clothing industry and has become a vital part of many companies operation The Internet can link the designer with fabric and trimming suppliers, the garment manufacturer and the retailers many of which can be overseas. Pattern Cutting is seen increasingly as technical rather than a designing process. When a company adopts new technology, a division often occurs because different types of software programs handle graphic data in different ways Imaging programs manipulate the data using screen pixel. The programs are used for idea generation, story boards, illustration and many other form of textile design The software can offer much greater integration between fabric and garment design, offering new possibilities to the designer. A new generation of designers is emerging from the colleges, and many of them feel comfortable with the technology; they will undoubtedly increase the momentum of its application. Computers, their associated scanners and printers and some software programs are now relatively cheap and affordable even by very small companies and freelance designer Software programs that work is very high resolution are now available They produce high-quality line output and photographic images To fashion retailers demand a fast response; the advantages of modifying drawings and printing them with variation of colour and pattern are therefore obvious. Retailers make many decisions from virtual fabrics and virtual garments created by 2D and 3D textile and drape programs. Woven knitted or printed fabrics can be realized on screen and printed by inkjet printers onto fabric by instant sampling Collection can be visualized by mapping fabrics to sketches and photographs, thus creating virtual models and reducing the amount of samples needed each season The large and medium size companies that supply the multiple retailers now see paint system as an essential element of the early selection stages of the design process New development in virtual reality is creating moving models and electronics fashion shows, or virtual store displays. It is now possible to access virtual models online through the Internet and see them from all angles as they rotate in real time the garment image can be remapped with any of the different fabrics shown on the screen Pattern cutting programs are based on vectors that register and manipulate the data in the form of mathematical co-ordinates . It takes time to become skilled in working computer programs; therefore a choice of direction has to be made and there has become direct distinction between the designer, now seen as a stylist (Using Imaging programs) and the pattern cutter. Production Data Management

Students entering their first design position are often astonished at the amount of documentation that is required from the designer Organization is central to the designers work; rigorous notation of design styles, fabrics, trimmings and specifications are required. Production data management (PDM) software controls the whole production process of the garment The production cycle of a garment requires accurate information that can be accessed by the entire department in the company. A PDM System eliminates the repetition of identical information being processed. The information given by the designer on each style forms the foundation for the style to travel though the data base as it enters production cycle The software allows authorized users to access and modify the sketches or photographs; the pattern, sizing and measurement; the fabric, linings, interfacings and trimmings information; the lay plan and costing calculations; assembly instructions and making up procedures. External cut, make and trim facilities in other factories and other sourcing information can also be accessed Information can be constantly updated with everybody being informed instantly about the modifications

Pattern Creation and Modification a)Specification and Drawings Designers have to record styles by means of specification drawings. This is particularly important for the designer who delegates the pattern development of a style to a pattern cutter (drafter) The designer has to develop a concise means of communication within the design team as well as with the production staff. The techniques of precise technical drawing, in correct proportion and measurements, can be aided by the use of a computer The drawing can then be accurately interpreted into a first working pattern Accurate adaptations from specification drawings can be made of the type of design illustrated. Basic seam and pocket positions can be marked, pattern pieces can be traced off and modified. b) Means of Pattern Development Designers use a range of techniques Modeling the garment on the dress stand Direct measurement Construction of pattern by instructions (Usually basic styles in menswear) Copy of an existing pattern Adaptation of a previous pattern Adaptation of blocks Some designers use a single technique, others combine them to achieve the final pattern, and it is possible to combine any of the above method with the creation of computer-generated patterns. But adaptations of blocks or previous pattern generation systems (PGS) because they are a means of QC standard.

c) Pattern Generation System (Creation and modification) The systems are now very sophisticated. The natural environment of the work table has been reproduced by working on a digitizer with personal tool and material. The designer, work in the same manner as manual pattern cutting, but the lines are recorded electronically. Sample calico modeled on the stand or manually cut patterns can be traced into the system, refine to a production level and seam allowances added Although pattern can be drafted directly on the screen, the systems are particularly adept at adapting blocks or modifying patterns stored within the computer They can perform many std. pattern adaptations such a swing darts, adding pleats and fullness, etc. They also perform repeated tasks such as adding seam allowances instruction and labeling.

Pattern Creation and Modification

The acknowledged values of PGS is that they systemize the procedure of creating an accurate pattern with many similar but slightly differing parts, such as line jackets and coats. The ability to overlay and check the parts is crucial in this process. They can also associate parts so that any modifications to the outer garment during the development process can be programmed to occur on associated pieces, such as the interlining or linings. Some system (for example the assyst software) have macros where the operator can teach the system to perform some drafting operations that are repetitive The value of these systems for companies producing std types of design, for example career wear, is recognized Some of the more advanced software can program the computer with instruction for drafting a particular style

The method can create patterns to individual sets of measurements, thus creating bespoke patterns for individual sizing But there is a temptation to modify previous styles. The sheer pace of the design cycle gives little space for innovative styling . It is not only the creation of the design, but the sourcing, costing, new production procedures and re-tooling of machinery which accompanies totally new concepts. Most of the systems excel at pattern modification or the development of basic styles from blocks or previous pattern. However, the generation of innovative fashion design of complex cut or fabric drape can be achieved from manual method, where the 3D form of the shape can be modified during the pattern development process. But the computer does not have to dismissed from this or any other area of pattern cutting, it can be used as a part of any of the method The possibilities of integrating fabric design into pattern shape can be realized by using digital printing. Most of this form of printing has been used for the quick sampling of garments by creating short lengths of fabric or by pasting fabric images into garment pattern shapes However, a few designers are creating new concept of 2D to 3D design Katherine Townsend use the drape manipulation attributes of the technology to develop and change the print during the process of garment design. d) 3D Software Programs CAD suppliers have been working on research to create garment pattern directly on the 3D dress stand for decades At least four CAD suppliers are offering or about to release differing versions of working within a 3D environment. Most of these are based on 2D dress patterns that can be transferred onto a 3D stand or virtual body to give realization of how the made-up garment will look. Although the characteristics of the fabric, particularly its draping qualities, can be entered to give a realistic image, the most success has been with garments that fit closely to the body form. The stand or virtual body can be modified to different shapes and sizes and some programs show the ease distribution The aim is to reduce the number of samples or toiles made up in the design room. However, companies have shown little enthusiasm for the 3 D programs. This is because experienced designers and pattern cutters, who have worked with pattern shapes and fabric, can visualize 2D shapes as 3D images. They are therefore able to use the current programs with great skill As increasing number of companies are including made to measure in their product range Different elements of the CAD process have made this direction feasible. Mass-customization offers not only a better fit but also a wider choice of style, fabrics, linings and trimmings.

The Process The process begins with the customers measurements being taken manually or by 3D scanning systems, which defines not only the measurements of the customer, but also the shape in the form of virtual figure which can be constantly updated. Fabrics and styles can be selected within a store or via the Internet. Once the style is selected, the customers measurements are compared to the nearest size of pattern stored in the system. A second layer of grade rules is then used to cover the most basic alterations and variations in body stance. When new measurements are given, the system automatically modifies the pattern to the new measurements. Non-standard adjustments can be made in pattern design software. Any lining or interlining pieces are automatically adjusted; small pieces, such as pockets and collars, rarely need any adjustments. A lay plan is constructed for the modified pattern, this is sent directly to a single-ply cutter which cuts individual garment at high speed e) New Software Developments The demand for made-to measure software programs has led to new ways of developing the mathematics of pattern construction, parametric. The pattern are constructed and defined by a set of dimensions, which can then be modified by typing in new measurements. If a point is dragged by the mouse, the system recalculates the entire model accordingly.Lay and Marker Planning by Computer The main reason why companies invest in CADCAM technology is for the advantages it brings to cutting department in controlling, organizing and reducing cost. Lay planning is in the initial costing of a garment, but its main function is in the production cutting of garments. It is used for complex lay planning of garment in many sizes. Some systems allow the modification of styles and pattern pieces at this late stage of the CADCAM operation. This is very useful where a companys products included basic garment ranges with small styling alternatives. The lay that are created are either plotted out as a paper lay plans on the plotter or the information is sent out directly to computer controlled cutters. The diagram in next slide traces different routes that can be taken through the system from pattern generation to lay planning operations. The most common route highlightedPattern Creation, Modification, Grading & Lay Planning(The highlighted route is the most common one)

Creating Models : Throughout the clothing industry most companies making substantial quantities of garment are using CAD systems. They brought them principally, for marker-making , which offer accuracy, speed and fabric utilization To cut a garment by CAD the first procedure is to creates models for style, A model is created by calling up the styles pattern pieces (stored in the system) that have to be cut in a particular fabric. If there are different fabric used in the style, or if there are interlinings or linings, a number of models will have to be made. A Marker Order Order processing for production lay plans can be very complex. There can be as many as eight fabrics in a jacket, each requiring a model and separate lay plan (Marker). In addition, a large order with many sizes will increase the number of markers. The length of the cutting tables restricts the marker length Therefore, the distribution of the number of garments and sizes in a marker is crucial to the fabric utilization figures. Cut order planning software can distribute the size into different markers to give the best fabric utilization for the order. The marker for each fabric needs the following instruction: Piece names, Sizes, Number of pieces Fabric constraints (single, or double-ply, face-to-face, nap) Any blocking of areas Any buffering around pieces Matching of checks, patterns Marker Making The pattern pieces for the marker appear on the screen and can then be placed manually by an operator, dragging the pieces into position. Many options allow the grouping of pieces and the dynamic alteration or matching of pieces. The standard for automatic marker making has improved in speed and fabric utilization and is now used more often than manual functions. The system will try different ways of placing the pieces in the lay until the best fabric utilization is achieved

E-Commerce Marker Making Direct web-based marker-making is now available from Assyst Bulmer, and it offers the service to clothing manufacturers Its advantage is the power of the main computer which offers quality markers twenty four hours per day ever day. It works at a very fast speed regardless of whether or not the customer has broadband connections. The service is aimed at manufacturers who are short of staff, have peak workloads, and wanting to expand production, or those who have production spread around the world. It is important for manufacturers to realize that compatibility between systems is no longer a problem, that can be transferred between different CAD system

Plotting and Cutting The markers can be potted out or cut automatically on high-speed, deep-ply cutters that can cut many layers of fabric, or on single-ply cutters for custom-made garments, Gerbers InVision uses an intelligent vision system to simplify and improve plaid stripe matching. The operator uses the advanced camera and optics system to precision match the fabric cutting.