ce - standarization and legislation - ecy-twin
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Circular EconomyStandarization and LegislationEdwin Maes | Environmental labelling | 04/09/2020
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Content
₋ Short introduction
₋ Me
₋ Standards vs. Legislation
₋ Standards with an influence on thecircular economy
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Me @ Centexbel
₋ Edwin Maes
₋ Consultant Clothing textiles for Centexbel
₋ Quality / Sustainability / Legislation
₋ Member of Standardization Working groups in:
₋ NBN
₋ NEN
₋ CEN
₋ ISO
₋ Belgian representative in the DG GROW textilelabelling and composition of textiles
₋ Active in several projects regarding Circular textiles3
Standard vs. Legislation
₋ Standard₋ Technical document designed to be used as a
rule, guideline or definition
₋ It is a consensus-built, repeatable way of doingsomething
₋ Voluntary
₋ Legislation₋ Binding for all (except recommendations)
₋ Sometimes only intended parties4
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Legislation of influence
₋ General product safety- Directive 2001/95/EC of the European Parliament and of the Council of 3 December 2001 on general product safety
₋ REACH - Regulation (EC) No 1907/2006 of the European Parliament and of the Council of 18 December 2006 concerning the Registration, Evaluation,
Authorisation and Restriction of Chemicals (REACH), establishing a European Chemicals Agency
₋ Toy safety- Directive 2009/48/EC of the European Parliament and of the Council of 18 June 2009 on the safety of toys
₋ Organic - Regulation (EU) 2018/848 of the European Parliament and of the Council of 30 May 2018 on organic production and labelling of organic
products
₋ Biocides - Regulation (EU) No 528/2012 of the European Parliament and of the Council of 22 May 2012 concerning the making available on the market
and use of biocidal products
₋ EU Ecolabel - Regulation (EC) No 66/2010 of the European Parliament and of the Council of 25 November 2009 on the EU Ecolabel
₋ Fibre Composition - Regulation (EU) No 1007/2011 of the European Parliament and of the Council of 27 September 2011 on textile fibre names
and related labelling and marking of the fibre composition of textile products
₋ Footwear labelling - Directive 94/11/EC of the European Parliament and of the Council of 23 March 1994 on the approximation of the laws,
regulations and administrative provisions of the Member States relating to labelling of the materials used in the main components of footwear for sale to theconsumer
₋ Personal protection equipment - Regulation (EU) 2016/425 of the European Parliament and of the Council of 9 March 2016 on
personal protective equipment
₋ Unfair practises - Directive 2005/29/EC of the European Parliament and of the Council of 11 May 2005 concerning unfair business-to-consumer
commercial practices in the internal market
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Harmonised Standard (hEN)
₋ Presumption of conformity when compliant
₋ Annex ZA - Link to the EU regulation
₋ Only EN-standards can be harmonised, no TR orother standards
₋ Still voluntary!
₋ Development of a hEN₋ Mandate of the commission to CEN, CENELEC or ETSI
₋ a TC / WG is appointed - standardization procedurefollowed
₋ Approval of the standard by theEU commission as hENand addition of Annex AZ to the document
https://ec.europa.eu/growth/single-market/european-standards/harmonised-standards_en#:~:text=A%20harmonised%20standard%20is%20a,to%20one%20of%20these%20organisations.
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Content
₋ Short introduction
₋ Edwin Maes
₋ Standards vs. Legislation
₋ Standards with an influence on thecircular economy
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Governmental push towards Circularity
₋ Policy on the Circular Economy₋ EU Green Deals with specific the “Circular Economy Action
Plan”₋ Local Governments
₋ The Netherlands₋ Policy on circular textile
₋ Flanders₋ Since 1 January 2020 all public procurements need to be 100% sustainable
₋ Wallonia₋ circular economy strategy
₋ Short term - More circular related requirements inpublictenders
₋ Long term - Expected new legislation for textile and woode.g. extended producer responsibility
More information on EU policy regarding CEhttps://ec.europa.eu/growth/industry/sustainability/circular-economy_en 8
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How to make claims?
₋ Unfair practices legislation !₋ All parameters that would influence a consumer decide need
to be announced and in fair manner.
₋ Standards, certification and labels can help to makeclaims₋ Claiming to be compliant with a standard
= forcing yourself to be compliant
₋ Good standard, certification or label – must betrustworthy:
₋ Objective, the criteria need to be public and well defined
₋ Take into account all Stakeholders of influence on the subject
₋ Accessible to everybody
₋ Verifiable by a third party9
Existing standards
₋ ISO 9001 – Quality management₋ supported by many test standards and product
standards
₋ ISO 14021 - Environmental labels anddeclarations - Self-declared environmentalclaims
₋ BS 8001 - Framework for implementing theprinciples of the circular economy inorganizations. Guide
₋ More SDG’s related standards on the ISOwebsite: https://www.iso.org/sdgs.html
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Case specific standards
₋ NEN - NTA “Circulaire textiel” (Dutch Technical Agreement)
₋ Main part is a Classification of the content recycled material anddefinitions
Case specific standards
NEN - NTA “Circulaire textiel”₋ Requirements regarding the business model and the
supply chain₋ ISO/FDIS 22095 'Chain of Custody – Terminology and
business models'
₋ BS 8001:2017 framework for implementing the principles ofthe circular economy in organisations.
₋ Communication requirements₋ Mentioning the circular strategy
₋ % Recycled material of every category
₋ Claims according to the ISO 14021 'Environmental labelsand declarations'
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Case specific standards
NEN - NTA “Circulaire textiel”
₋ Not considered Circular textile₋ Virgin materials/product Designed for circularity
₋ Possibility to mention designed for circular textile
₋ Recycling - Bio-cycle is not taken into account₋ Reasoning – Even biomaterials can be recycled and
be a material source
₋ It takes only textile (fiber material) in accountand not coatings, zippers, buttons…
Case specific standards
NEN - NTA “Circulaire textiel”₋ Probably further development inCEN TC 248
Textile and textile products
₋ Development of a certification scheme by theNEN or CEN TC 248 Textiles and textile products
₋ Certification of recycled material in textilesand plastics possible₋ BQA has the QA-cer auditing system with a
testing option on Reach compliancyhttps://www.qa-cer.be/
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More influential standards in textiles…
₋ ISO/TC 38 "Textiles“₋ ISO/TC 38/SC 02/WG 12 “Care labelling”₋ ISO/TC 38/WG 22 “Composition and chemical testing”₋ ISO/TC 38/WG 23 “Biological properties of textiles”₋ ISO/TC 38/WG 30 “Tests for Biodegradability”₋ ISO/TC 38/WG 33 “Animal welfare in the textile supply chain”₋ ISO/TC 38/WG 34 “Microplastics from textile sources”₋ ISO/TC 38/WG 35 “Environmental Aspects”
₋ ISO IWA 38 (International Workshop Agreements Draft)'GMO screening protocol for cotton and textiles’
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More to come…
₋ Floorcovering – talks on a circular standard forfloorcovering
₋ Furniture ?
₋ Implementation of Circular economy in productstandards with safety topics e.g. community masks
₋ … raises the question “To much inconsistency?”
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SABE – “Circular Economy Group”
₋ CEN Strategic Advisory Body on Environment(SABE) organization
₋ New workgroup since 2020
₋ 3 objectives
₋ Identify all standards that have an influence on theCircular economy
₋ Identify the needs regarding standardization
₋ Coordinate and advice CEN and the EU Commision
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Development general standards
ISO TC 323 “Circular economy”
₋ ISO/TC 323/WG 1 - Framework, principles, terminology,and management system standard
₋ ISO/WD 59004 Circular economy —Framework and principlesfor implementation
₋ ISO/TC 323/WG 2 - Guidance for implementation andsectoral applications
₋ ISO/WD 59010 Circular economy — Guidelines onbusinessmodels and value chains
₋ ISO/TC 323/WG 3 - Measuring circularity₋ ISO/WD 59020 - Circular economy —Measuring circularity
framework
₋ ISO/TC 323/WG 4 - Specific issues of circular economy ty₋ ISO/CD TR 59031 - Circular economy – Performance-based
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ECY-TWIN
₋ Workgroup on standardization and tools
₋ First online meeting on 22/10/2020
₋ Interested? - contact - [email protected]
₋ Invitation by the end of September
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Questions - Contact
Wood & FurnitureRaymond Van Pestel | [email protected]
Phone + 32 2 558 15 50 | www.wood.be
WOOD.BE | Hof ter Vleestdreef 3 | BE-1070 Brussel
TextilesEdwin Maes | [email protected]
Phone +32 9 241 86 82 | Mobile +32 476 92 58 16 | www.centexbel.be
CENTEXBEL | Technologiepark 7 | BE-9052 ZWIJNAARDE
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