Central European wine identity: myth or reality?

©2011 Julia Sevenich

Despite changing national boundaries throughout history, scholars assert a distinct

Central European culture based on similarities emanating from historical, social and

cultural characteristics. Central Europe is often viewed as the area of cultural heritage

of the Habsburg Empire and this is particularly true from a wine standpoint.. Despite

the fact that “Central Europe” is not a legally defined and protected geographic region

of origin for wine in current or past legislation, it is worthwhile considering the

identity of Central European wine from a cultural aspect. Do the wine regions of

Austria, Alsace, Alto Adige, the Czech Republic, Friuli, Germany, Hungary, Slovakia,

Slovenia, and Switzerland share a common identity?

Central European wine cultivation is highly fragmented. Wine grapes have usually

been one of several different crops on small agricultural farms. The average grape

grower in Central Europe has less than two hectares of vineyards. Post WWII saw the

first wave of agricultural farms specializing in wine grapes and subsequently a growth

in the number of grape growers producing and bottling their own wines rather than

selling grapes to larger producers and cooperatives. Magnifying this fragmented

structure is the fact that Central Europe has always been multi-lingual and multi-

national. Borders of the various countries and legislations have changed and been

redefined multiple times. As fragmented as this may appear, this is actually a binding

aspect because this diversity is universal throughout Central Europe and has provided

a breeding ground for one of the world’s richest sources of creative and intellectual

talent.

Central Europe is geographically encompassed by the Alps to the west and the

Carpathian Mountains to the north and the east. The climate for wine cultivation

can be defined as continental and in all parts of Central Europe where the climate is

moderate enough, wine cultivation thrives. Central European vineyard area covers

over 330,000 hectares and is in 5th

place in global wine production behind France,

Italy, Spain, and the USA. The importance of wine in Central European lifestyle can

be observed in the vineyard area, production volume, export and annual per capita

consumption in the graphic below.

The continental climate that reigns in Central Europe has greatly influenced the choice

of grape varieties planted for wine production. For the most part, the climate is cool

and over 50% of the vineyard area is planted with white wine grape varieties. Central

Europe is responsible for 75% of the world’s Riesling vineyard area (source:

Fischer/Swoboda “Riesling”) which is planted mostly in Germany, Alsace and

Austria. The exquisite off-dry Rieslings of the Mosel with low alcohol levels are an

inimitable style that is admired around the world. The Rieslings in general from

Central Europe are viewed globally as role models for the variety. Black grape

varieties are prevalent only in the Pannonian Plains of Burgenland in Austria and

Hungary which comprise the warmest parts of Central Europe. An estimated 20-30%

of the world’s Pinot Noir is planted in Central Europe which is the region’s

predominant black grape variety. Riesling and Pinot Noir are followed by several

other varieties. Grüner Veltliner has recently established itself as a popular brand from

Austria. There are hopes that the unique Blaufränkisch (synonyms: Kékfrancos,

Lemberger) will also establish itself as a brand, for it certainly has a unique profile

among red wines and is a variety that is found nearly nowhere else in the world.

Welschriesling (synonyms: Olasz Rizling, Laški Rizling) and Müller Thurgau

(Rivaner) are likewise varieties that are associated nearly exclusively with Central

Europe. The significance of Grüner Veltliner, Müller Thurgau, Welschriesling and

Blaufränkisch after Riesling and Pinot Noir can be seen in the graph below.

Vineyard

Ha

Production

HL

Export

%

Per capita

consumption in

litres per year

Austria 49.900 2.628 19,60 29,50

Alsace 15.353 * * *

Alto Adige 5.000 * * *

Czech Republic 17.700 821 10,30 17,20

Friuli 18.700 * * *

Germany 102.000 10.261 34,50 25,20

Hungary 75.000 3.222 18,60 26,90

Slovakia 17.600 363 35,50 12,10

Slovenia 17.300 664 6,40 34,20

Switzerland 14.820 1.039 1,92 38,90

Statistic source: OIV 2007

*Regional statistics not available. National per capita wine consumption in

litres per year for France is 52, for Italy 45

Quality wines are made from over 200 different grape varieties in Central Europe.

Most of the wines are single-varietal wines and carry the name of the variety on

the wine label. This is also demonstrated in Alsace, Alto Adige and Friuli which lie in

countries that otherwise generally use geographic labels of origin rather than varietal

labelling. As one can see in the graph below many of these varieties are found across

several countries and sub-regions in Central Europe.

Geographic labels of origin that do not mention the grape variety are less prolific in

Central Europe, but do exist in areas where a unique wine style has been established

over a long period of time and this wine style employs more than one variety.

Examples of this are the botrytized sweet wine specialties Tokaij and Ruster

Ausbruch. Dry white, dry red, botrytized sweet wine, sweet wine from dried grapes,

ice wine and sparkling wine are all produced in Central Europe. Production of fortified

wine has little tradition here. There are styles that are unique that have established an

internationally recognized identity. Besides the botrytized sweet wine specialties

mentioned above, there are also the Trockenbeerenauslese from Austria and Germany,

Rosenmuskateller from Alto Adige and Picolit and Ramandolo from Friuli.

Central Europe is a dynamical historic concept, not a static spatial one. “Central

Europe” is not a legally defined geographic region and its manifestation as an

identity on a wine label shall remain a myth. Despite this, the concept is a reality

in a wine cultural sense. This is documented by the common grape varieties shared

among the different sub-regions, many of them autochthon grape varieties that are

found nearly exclusively in Central Europe. Also testifying to wine’s significant role

in Central European culture is the relatively high annual per capita consumption and

its use as a regular beverage with meals. Wine is the beverage of choice at diplomatic

and public celebrations as well as at business and private dinners. The Roman Catholic

religion continues to be the most prevalent religion in Central Europe and wine is a

part of the religious ritual at mass. A rich heritage is documented by historic and

unique Central European wine styles that continue to be treasured and sought-after on

a global scale in today’s modern wine world. Grape varieties can be planted anywhere

in the world as is demonstrated by two indigenous Central European varieties Riesling

and, more recently, Grüner Veltliner. It is important not only to highlight the variety in

branding for a global market, but also the geographic region of origin. There exist

several terroir of very high pedigree in Central Europe - terroir that leaves an

inimitable stamp. Measures should be taken to ensure high qualities and authentic

expressions of these terroir and this uniqueness should be communicated to consumers

clearly. A movement away from varietal labelling in favour of clearly defined

geographic regions of origins can be observed in Central Europe. The Austrian DAC

system is now a part of that country’s wine legislation. The beginning of a movement

towards vineyard classification is also observed among various vintner associations

throughout Central Europe. It is not just the variety, but inimitable terroir and historic

wine culture that lend Central European wine its unique identity and point of

difference on the market. Although “Central Europe” may never be found on a wine

label, there are unique terroirs from the region that have established international

recognition and respect and there promises to be more in the future.