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CHAPTER 5

SUMMARY AND CONCLUSION

“Now the key to competing in the international market place is to

simultaneously improve both quality and productivity on continual basis.”

Mannan and Ferdousi (as cited in Farhana, & Amir, 2009b,p.106).

Survival in today’s fiercely competitive world for any Indian apparel manufacturer

requires producing garments of high quality, at the shortest time and lowest cost

possible. The looming threat from neighbouring countries like China, Sri Lanka,

Bangladesh and Cambodia where the labour cost is the lowest has adversely started

impacting the market share of Indian exports. According to Goyal and Shekhar(2013),

India has a capacity to grow as the biggest player in this trade. China is currently

facing trouble due to higher wages and value of currency being pushed up. Even 2%

spillage in China export market could mean 25% increase in India’s trade. But, in

order to grasp this opportunity, India needs to be prepared for the common threats to

the industry and gear up to optimize their current capacity. Only option that is left to

achieve the triple agenda of productivity, quality and on-time delivery is to improve

one’s working systems. Lean being a waste elimination system is the ultimate solution

which could drive the industry towards the cost effectiveness, quality conformance

and competitiveness, further ensuring short lead times, lower costs, improved

efficiency, higher value added products, and business profitability. Lean’s

phenomenon success in the automobile industries has generated greater attention,

motivation and enthusiasm among the garment manufacturers to adopt this continuous

improvement philosophy. It is believed that the lean manufacturing if carefully

implemented can undoubtly form the roadmap to global manufacturing excellence and

act as the survival kit in this volatile global business environment. Simultaneously,

reduction of GHG can give Philip to the industry besides preventing further spread of

GHG in the atmosphere. Looking at the increasing ability of lean to confront its

competitors and provide answers to most of the problems which Indian garment

industries are facing, this study was planned with the following aims and objectives:-

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Objectives

1. To study the concept, principles, tools, and implementation procedure of lean

manufacturing system and carbon footprint.

2. To compare and analyze the assembly line before and after lean

implementation in apparel manufacturing export units of National Capital

Region (NCR) with special emphasis on 7 deadly wastes.

3. To assess the driving factors, key constraints and critical success factors in

relation to the implementation of lean in apparel manufacturing units.

4. To assess the status of lean initiatives in apparel manufacturing units in the

NCR.

5. To compare the performance in terms of manufacturing and environmental key

performance indicators namely productivity, efficiency, quality, work in

progress and carbon footprint among lean initiated and non- lean initiated

apparel units.

6. To conduct a workshop to disseminate the knowledge regarding the lean

manufacturing and carbon footprint.

Hypothesis of the study

Based on the cited literature, hypothesis framed for the present study are-

Ha1: Size of the apparel unit is significantly associated with the lean awareness and

implementation.

Ha2: Age of the apparel manufacturing unit is significantly associated with the lean

awareness and implementation.

Ha3: There is a significant difference in the lean initiation status between lean

initiated and non-lean initiated apparel units.

Ha4: Lean awareness makes a significant difference in the current status of lean

initiatives.

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Ha5: Year of lean initiation makes a significant difference in the current status of

lean initiatives.

Ha6: There is a significant difference in performance in terms of manufacturing

key performance indicators namely productivity, efficiency, quality, work in

progress among lean -initiated and non -lean initiated apparel units.

Ha7: There is a significant difference in performance in terms of environmental

key performance indicator that is carbon footprint among lean initiated and

non- lean initiated apparel units.

Ha8: Year of lean initiation makes a significant difference in the performance of

the apparel unit in the terms of productivity, efficiency, quality, work in

progress and carbon footprint.

Limitations

Following are some of the limitations of the present study:-

1. Assessment of Performance improvement was limited to sewing section.

2. For the calculation of carbon footprint, only scope I and scope II emissions were

counted, as in most of the apparel units record of data required for calculation of

scope III carbon emissions was not maintained. Moreover, as inclusion of scope

III emissions is optional as per Green House Gas (GHG) protocol, a relatively

straightforward and low cost option of calculation was used. The calculations

were based solely of the year 2012 data. Time series analysis was not feasible as

data prior to 2012 was not collected.

3. Awareness workshop was held in a selected non-lean initiated unit only in

Ludhiana.

Methodology

The study has been conducted in three phases using both primary as well as

secondary data. Research methods adopted in this study were planned on the basis of

survey of methodologies and standards used in reviewed literature, workshops and

seminars. The study started with Phase I, which was an exploratory phase which

included interviewing the purposively selected 5 lean and carbon footprint experts

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each, on the basis of their experience in providing consultancy in the field of lean

manufacturing and environment, health and safety management in the textile and

apparel industries. It also involved attending related conferences and workshops to

gets an in-depth knowledge of principles, tools, techniques of lean manufacturing

system and its practical application.

Online lean awareness and practice survey of the Apparel Export Promotion

Council (AEPC) member units were also conducted. Inclusive and exclusive criteria

were used to select the sample. Out of total 8195 exporters all over India only 2832

export units in NCR were included in the study. There were total 8195 registered

exporters all over India in the member list of AEPC, out of which, 2832 units

belonged to National Capital Region (NCR). Out of these units, 1010 apparel

manufacturing export units were included, excluding 1822 merchant export units of

NCR. Data for the online survey was collected from the 450 apparel manufacturing

export units following assembly line system and rest 560 export units following make

through system were excluded. An online link for the survey along with the covering

letter was sent to 450 apparel manufacturing exporters. Responses was received only

from 297 apparel units out of which 284 responses were found valid.

Phase II included the in-depth study for which out of 284 apparel

manufacturing exporters, only 205 apparel units manufacturing ladies garments

participated in the online survey. Twenty one apparel units were found to be

practicing lean out of 205, and, hence, all of these apparel units were contacted

through local associations like Okhla Garment Textile Cluster (OGTC) and Noida

Garment Manufacturing Association. Only 10 Lean initiated units agreed to provide

the detail information required for the study as well as allowed firsthand experience of

lean implementation through personal visits to various departments of the apparel

manufacturing units. For comparison, from the 184 non-lean initiated apparel units,

10 apparel units were randomly selected using lottery method. This phase included

case study of 10 lean initiated apparel manufacturing units to find out changes

occurred in the unit before and after implementing lean in relation to implementation

of tools and identification and removal of wastes. Along with it other factors like

driving factors, key constraints and critical success factors were also studied.

Comparative assessment of the status of lean initiatives along with manufacturing and

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environmental performance improvement of 10 lean and 10 non-lean initiated apparel

manufacturing units was also conducted.

Phase III included awareness workshop on lean manufacturing and carbon

footprint in collaboration with Knitwear Club in Ludhiana. Thirty apparel units were

selected using systematic random sampling method primarily for its ease and speed of

identifying participants from the sampling frame of members list of Knitwear Club,

Ludhiana. Managing Directors of these units were invited for the workshop as they

are considered the main driving force to initiate any new improvement methodology.

Though invitation was sent to 30 apparel units but only owners or representatives of

18 apparel units attended the workshop on lean and carbon footprint.

For statistical analysis, percentages and weighted mean were used to make the

inter and intra comparisons of the responses of various alternatives. Keeping the

objectives of the research in mind, statistical tools like Chi-Square, t-test, Mann

Whitney U test, Anova and Bonferroni Post -Hoc Test were used to analyze the data

or test the hypothesis.

Major Findings

The study started with phase I including exploration of the two new concepts

of improving the manufacturing excellence that is lean and carbon footprint. In-depth

interview of lean experts revealed that the essence of lean philosophy is to ‘SEW’ that

is systematic elimination of waste by removing the non-value added activities and

reducing the required value added activities further leading to creation of zero waste

environments and enhancement of value for the customers and employees. It is to do

more with less, using just enough resources and producing less waste. All the experts

believed that lean is not a physical system, but a philosophy. Its focus is entirely on

people or employees that are the drivers of growth and determine the success of a

company. Its implementation leads to the development of the ability, courage and

desire to recognize and call the traditionally existent normal non-value added

activities as ‘waste’ basically unlocking the mind of the people to see the waste as an

opportunity of improvement. The four main principles behind the implementation of

the lean manufacturing process highlighted by the experts were philosophy, process,

people and problem solving. It was highlighted that traditional manufacturing is

different from lean as it follows a push approach requiring large inventories of every

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part that is needed for assembling large number of products to lower their production

costs while lean is based on pull system which is activated in the production process

automatically adjusting itself to the customer’s demand, so that there is no

overproduction and Just In Time (JIT) can be practiced.

The Experts believed that lean and its tools like 5S, Visual Management

(VM), Kaizen, Poka yoke, Total Productive Management (TPM), Cellular

Arrangement, Continuous Improvement (CI), Problem Solving tools and so forth are

applicable to the small scale and labour- oriented apparel industry as per the situation

and requirement of the unit and each of the lean tools is implemented with different

purpose. But lean implementation generally starts with 5S and Visual Management as

it lays the foundation for further implementation of advance tools in a unit. Total

Productive Maintenance and Jodoka tools are more suitable to the automated industry

like textile industry. It was suggested that in order to attain and sustain success in the

process of lean implementation, all tools must be synchronized with each other, just

like gears that go hand in hand. Majority of the experts believed that lean is a long

term philosophy in which positive improvements in the apparel units become visible

after 6 months, but result comes after 1 year and complete transformation takes place

in about 5-10 years.

All the respondents agreed that they have implemented lean in various phases.

Implementation started with the orientation of the top management towards lean,

followed by the lean concept training to all the employees, mapping of the current

state, and defining of the lean metrics with the development of the skill for industrial

engineering and quality control. Future state is designed and trial concepts are

developed, implemented, monitored, evaluated and adjusted as per the modular line.

Later on, full scale implementation and the follow up are conducted. Training on

various lean aspects is given to the unit members as per their role in the organization.

Lean Manufacturing Competitiveness Scheme (LMCS) was described in detail

by the experts highlighting its importance, goal and benefits. The scheme as a

component of National Manufacturing Competitiveness Programme (NMCP) aiming

to bring about the manufacturing competitiveness among the micro, small and

medium enterprises through the application of various Lean Manufacturing (LM)

techniques. The approach involves engagement of Lean Manufacturing Consultants

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(LMCs) for a cluster of 8-10 units to assess and guide the detailed step by step

procedures and schedules for implementing the lean techniques. Under the financial

aid provison, 80% of the consultant fees for each mini cluster is provided by the

government of India while the remaining 20% is borne by the beneficiaries of

Medium Small Micro Enterprises (MSME) units.

Experts revealed that most of the owners of the apparel units in National

Capital Region (NCR) have the progressive attitude, but some of them are eager for

quick results and don’t want to waste time in learning new techniques as they

consider it more profitable to concentrate on shipment of orders. Managers, operators

and supervisors are generally very excited to learn new concepts provided they are

paid adequately. Training and retraining of the people is the only strategy for those

who resist the change. All the lean experts emphasized that the transparent

environment is required for the implementation of lean tools and techniques in the

units. Along with it, mutual trust amongst themselves and between employees &

management, interconnecting key performance indicators, fulfillment of short term

and long term goals, job security and so forth are also important for bringing about

improvements in the units. Lean promotes capacity building among employees;

fostering team work; opportunity to identify and solve problems; delegation of work

or improvement initiatives; improved work environment, work culture, attitude of

employees; and inculcation of competitive spirit. Lack of time, owner’s commitment,

training, copying implemented changes from one factory to another without

understanding the culture, and non-efficient experts were some of the reasons

identified by the experts of failure in implementing lean in various apparel

manufacturing units.

Interaction with carbon footprint experts revealed that the carbon footprint of

the apparel unit is a part of corporate social responsibility which measures the

exclusive global amount of carbon dioxide and other green house gases emitted by the

apparel units measured in kg or tonnes. Various sources of emission of greenhouse

gases identified for a apparel manufacturing unit were the burning of fossil fuels in

boilers, vehicles, generators, electricity for lighting and production, water

consumption, chemicals and lubricants consumption, wastes produced, and use of fuel

in air conditioners and fire extinguishers.

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This process of measurement of carbon footprint were explained in detail by

the experts starting with the formation and training of green team members;

identification of emission resources through various factory visits; selection of

calculation method; standards and guidelines (ISO 14064-1 and Green House

Gas[GHG] Protocol Corporate Accounting and Reporting Standards);operational and

organizational boundaries; emission factors; collection of data and proofs; calculation

of carbon footprint; verification of entries; and publishing report on the emissions. All

the experts agreed that the lean enterprise emits less green house gases in comparison

to the traditional apparel units; because the main focus of lean is to reduce waste and

the units which produce minimal waste automatically emits less carbon footprint.

Carbon footprint experts highlighted the importance of measuring carbon

footprint by stating that even though the Indian government has not made any

legislation about carbon emission reporting but has voluntarily committed to reduce

the carbon intensity by 25% of 2005 level by 2020. More strict regulatory laws,

carbon tax for high carbon footprint processes and tax relief for efficient industries are

expected in future. Low awareness among industry owners, lack of competent

consultants for implementation, lack of technical data like local emission factors, not

having any record of fuel usage, slow progress in implementation, and lack of

incentive schemes for small and medium enterprises were few inhibitors stated by the

experts which slows the path of any organization towards environmental

sustainability. Most of them believed that earlier movers in lean implementation will

gain many benefits in terms of reputational and brand enhancement with global

customers, increase in revenue by identification of energy saving measures, and

improvement of employees’ satisfaction as well as efficiency.

Online survey was conducted on lean awareness and practices of 284 apparel

manufacturing units of National Capital Region (NCR). The demographic profile of

the respondents revealed that majority of the respondents was production managers

while none of them were the general managers or the owners of the unit. Majority of

the units surveyed were small scale producing ladies wear and children wear, while

38% apparel units were new which were established in last ten years, 31% were

adolescent and old, each established in last twenty years and before twenty years

respectively.

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An analysis of the data revealed that the high majority of the respondents that

is 70% were not at all aware of this new Japanese manufacturing technology. Only

2% of the respondents were extremely aware of this concept. Main sources of

spreading awareness were seminars or conferences, government schemes, and local

companies. Further, 93% had not initiated lean while only 2% had initiated lean very

well. Out of 7% units which had initiated lean to different extent, only 4% of the

apparel units had initiated lean in the last 2 years while the rest 3% of the apparel

units had been practicing lean since more than 2 years. These units had initiated lean

under the Lean Manufacturing Competitiveness Scheme (LMCS) with the help of

registered lean consultants. It was found that 7% of the units which had initiated lean

to varying extent had implemented 5S and Visual control each and hence these tools

were the first ranked and most common tools to be used forming the basis for the

implementation of the advance tools. These tools were followed by 6% units having

implemented Kaizen; Value Stream Mapping(VSM) and Workforce Orientation in

5% units ; 4% having implemented Standardized work and Total Productive

Maintenance(TPM) each; Problem Solving and Poka yoke in 2% units ; and Kanban,

Heijunka, Single Minute Exchange Of Dies(SMED), cellular manufacturing and

Andon in 1% units. Just in Time (JIT) was found to be the least implemented practice.

Comparative analysis of the extent of awareness and initiation on the basis of

size of the apparel unit revealed that medium scale units were highly and significantly

aware of the lean concepts including 9% and 18% of medium scale in comparison to

1% and 3% of small scale apparel units which were very and moderately aware

respectively. Similarly 7% of medium scale apparel units in comparison to none of

small scale units had initiated lean very well respectively. Majority of small scale

units that is 96% had not initiated lean in comparison to 85% medium scale units. Six

percent and 9 % of the medium scale units had initiated lean in less than 2 years and

more than 2 years respectively in comparison to only 4% of the small scale which had

initiated lean only in the last two years. It was found that only seven lean tools were

adopted in the small scale units in comparison to all 15 lean tools and practices by the

medium scale units, though the overall adoption was found in very few units. A

highly significant relationship between unit size category and level of the lean

awareness and initiation, year of the lean initiation, adoption of lean tools and

practices of the apparel manufacturing units was statistically established using chi

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square test. Hence, first alternate hypothesis was accepted stating that size of the

apparel unit is significantly associated with the lean awareness and implementation.

Statistical analysis of the impact of age of the unit on awareness and initiation

revealed that 5% of the old units, which came into existence in more than 20 years

were extremely aware of the lean concepts while, only 1% each of adolescent and

new units, were extremely aware which came into being in last 20 and10 years

respectively. Only 5% and 2% of the adolescent and old apparel units respectively

had implemented lean very well in comparison to only 1% of new units. High majority

of the respondents that is 97%, 92% and 87% of the new, adolescent and old apparel

units respectively had not initiated lean .Eight percent, 5% and 2% had initiated lean

in less than 2 years in comparison to 5 % 3% and 1% of old, adolescent and new

apparel units respectively had initiated since more than 2 years. All the 15 identified

lean tools and practices were adopted in new apparel units in comparison to 10 and 14

lean tools implemented in adolescent and old apparel units. The Chi-Square value of

above mentioned associations were found nonsignificant. Thus, second alternate

hypothesis was rejected stating that age of the apparel manufacturing unit is not

significantly associated with the lean awareness, implementation, year of lean

initiation and tools used.

In Phase II, general information regarding 10 lean and non-lean initiated

units each were analyzed using Mann-Whitney U test revealing that, there was no

statistical significant difference between lean and non-lean apparel units in terms of

full time employees, annual turnover, annual garment production and total floor area.

An in-depth investigation into the lean implementation of the 10 lean initiated units

clearly revealed that most of the units had embraced lean manufacturing with the help

of consultants registered under the Lean Competitive Manufacturing Scheme started

by the Ministry of Micro, Small and Medium Enterprises in 2010.Most of the units

had displayed posters on lean tools, slogans and process flow chart of lean journey,

ensuring that the lean implementation in some form or the other was taking place in

these garment factories to improve business performances. Majority of the units had

learnt about the lean concept in the conferences, seminars and from the local

associations, and, since then, has come a long way in its understanding of the Lean.

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Interviews with industrial engineers and other concerned personnel’s threw

light on the implementation of lean throughout the different departments of the

apparel manufacturing units. Overproduction, inventory, waiting, rework or defect,

disconnectivity, excess motion and excess transportation were the main wastes

identified. Out of all the wastes, waste of overproduction was the most serious, worst

and the fundamental waste, as it not only led to other wastes but also discouraged a

smooth flow of goods or services further inhibiting quality and productivity. Though

all the wastes were inter-connected, but their form varied in different apparel units. It

was observed that the apparel units surveyed were found to be using the same basic

tools and, further use of advance tools depended on the problems faced by different

units. Short summary of case studies of 10 apparel manufacturing units is described in

succeeding paragraphs.

Apparel manufacturing unit A, being an ISO: 9001 certified garment export

unit was established in 1980, manufacturing the children and ladies garments and was

located in Faridabad. The lean implementation in the unit started with the formation

of lean team including members from industrial engineering background. The lean

story board was prepared considering the 7 universal wastes as analyzed by each

department followed by the training on lean concepts for all the employees. Various

simple and advanced lean tools and practices were adopted.5S and Visual control

changes included regular checks and audits of the cleanliness drive, display of before

after pictures, company policies, safety instructions, aisle markings, warning of

hazardous work conditions, steps of taking measurement in sequence for checkers,

and performance status boards.Standard operating procedures (SOP) for all the

processes were initiated and displayed in the sewing area. Total Productive

Management (TPM) focusing on regular maintenance of the machines and displaying

of records were practiced. Skill matrix was prepared to understand the current skill

availability of the operators and for proper line planning and balancing.

Value stream was mapped for a particular style by conducting time study and

future Value Stream Map (VSM) was planned with Kaizen activities initiated with the

help of problem solving techniques. It involved solving problems of moving the

cutting tables to join with Computer Aided Manufacturing (CAM) by the construction

of tracks on the cutting floor and solving problem of lot mixing by use of colour

coded labels. Shift from conventional to U-shaped cell was done for 3 sewing lines

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involving few infrastructural changes such as a quality check station in the end of the

line and connected finishing area. All the members of the team worked together for

the smooth flow of operations and variety of products. Separate Andon signal light

was connected to each workstation and was activated with a pull switch whenever

there was a problem. Kanban for the movement of bundles was implemented in

between cutting and sewing sections.

Before the implementation of lean tools and practices in the unit, traditional

mass production system was practiced; the departments were unsystematic with no

regular cleaning, with tools and fabric rolls, left over pieces, items lying on the floor

with no attention to the health of the employees, manual layering and transportation of

fabric and lot of wasteful activity prevalent in the unit. But, after the implementation

of the lean tools, lot of changes were observed like regular daily cleaning, systematic

layout of fabric rolls, pallets and stands for preventing fabric getting soiled, racks or

boxes for keeping fabric and tools, compulsory use of safety equipments; creation of

red and yellow tag area, reduction in the number of quality checking personnels, use

of colour coded flags for operations, maintenance of machine breakdown, use of work

aids, and installation of visual signal system. Proper utilization of cutting table and

Kanban implementation throughout the unit was the future agenda of lean

improvements in unit A.

Case study of apparel unit B revealed that it is an export-oriented apparel unit

established in 1999 in Noida manufacturing ladies and children wear. The owners of

the unit first learnt about the lean in a workshop organized by a local association. It

successfully adopted various tools in its unit namely 5S, Visual management, Value

Stream Mapping, Kaizen, Andon, Poka yoke, Problem solving techniques and

Standardized work. The manufacturing unit B had won the best Kaizen idea award

and TESCO award 2012 for its commendable performance in the implementation of

lean. Main benefits related to Lean adoption were the increase in efficiency from 55%

to 70%, productivity increased from 10 pieces/machine to 15 pieces /machine, lead

time reduced from 60 days to 45 days, man- machine ratio reduced from 1:3 to 1:0.5,

decrease in cost per price from Rs.30/piece to Rs.18/piece, work in progress from

1500 piece to 700 pieces, decrease in inventory level, and reduction in garment

rejection.

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It started with the conduct of training and workshop for employees at different

levels and displaying of motivational lean tool posters on the walls all over the unit.

Workshops for supervisors stressed on improving their communication skills and

training to give instructions in a polite manner, while that of workers stressed on the

understanding of the concept of internal and external customers and importance of

passing on quality products to them.

First tool to be implemented was 5S and various improvements were carried

out through marking of files; marking of the exact place for keeping files; segregation

of needles of different sizes in different boxes for ease in issuing; extra items placed

in centrally located red tag area; before and after photos taken for comparison; regular

cleaning of the workplace by sweepers; clear marking of aisle ways and so forth.

Visual displays in the form of process and work instructions; coloured boundary for

items such as dustbins, machines and fire extinguishers; garment specification sheet;

accessories display in store; shadow boards, colored diagram for threading of a

machine; sample of finished garment; Heijunka boards showing the status of daily

schedules ; and marking of light and fan switches were observed. Colour stickers

were used as Poka yoke on different size piece bundles to avoid sewing wrong pieces

and making and display of standard work instructions or standard operating procedure

(SOPs) of every sewing operation for the convenience of operators. Current and

future Value Stream was mapped to bring about a deep understanding and conveying

enough information to understand the pieces, relationships and hidden wastes. Pre-

production meetings were conducted to enhance the communication between the

departments. Problem solving techniques like fish bone diagram, 5-why analysis, and

brain storming were used to identify and solve the problems using team based

approach.

Before the implementation of lean, the apparel unit was unorganized and had a

dirty workplace, with haphazard arrangements of fabric and accessories, problem of

high labour absenteeism, no standardized operations, no maintenance of machines, no

coordination between the departments and so forth. But after the implementation of

lean, monitoring of quality and efficiency was done through traffic light system;

purchase of good quality less maintenance machines; organization of Kaizen mela;

skill matrix; and formation of different committees such as sexual harassment, fire

fighter, health and safety, worker’s grievance redressal committee to look after the

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problems of workers; practice of incentive system; hanging of feedback board; visual

displays of different policies on the notice board and so forth. One of the Kaizen

implemented was of pasting pictures of various God’s and deities in corridors where

operators used to spit on walls, and another event was about marking on sewing

machine stitch regulator with a marker so that prescribed SPI(Stitch per inch)could be

maintained. The unit showed keen interest in changing the layout of sewing line into

cell type in future.

Apparel unit C was a medium scale unit established in 2004 in Noida,

manufacturing ladies garments. A consultant was employed to bring about lean

transformation in the whole unit in 2011 with the intention to satisfy customer’s

demand of quality. Competent lean consultant along with management support were

the two main critical success factors bringing about progressive changes in the

productivity from 10 piece per machine to 12 piece per machine; efficiency was

increased from 45% to 50%, defect hundred unit(DHU) from 23% to 18%,reduction

in work in progress(WIP) from 1500 pieces to 1000 pieces, lead time from 90 days to

70 days, average style change over time from 25 days to 20 days, and man-machine

ratio from 1:3 to 1:2.

A lean team was formed with a co-coordinator to identify and remove the

problems. 5S was implemented as a systemized approach to provide safety by

wearing proper working clothes, safety glasses, gloves and shoes, no smoking in the

workplace; stairways not blocked or slippery; safety guards, belt guards and needle

installation in sewing machines to prevent serious injuries to workers; use and

maintenance of fire safety equipment and so forth. Visual displays such as samples of

finished garments, operation breakdown, measurement sheet, common defects, scale

fixed on table side, accessory swatch card in front of inspectors helped in smooth

working of the apparel unit. ‘Color coding’ in the form of dustbins, pipes, critical

operations and so forth was also done. Andon system was installed as a two way

communication device where the operator puts up red flag and switches on the red

bulb signaling that the machine had broken down and hanging green flag meant that

the problem had been sorted-out. Traffic light system was used to stop producing

defects at source with the use and display of A4 sheet audit format on which coloured

circles were filled by the quality auditor after inspection of the garment 4 times in a

day. Red colour meant two defects, yellow colour meant one defect and green colour

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meant no defect. Skill matrix was mapped for the sewing operators in order to

address the suitability of individuals for recruitment purposes, accomplishing a task at

hand, additional tasks, promotion, team or group participation and suitability for a

newly created position.

Before the lean implementation, lot of unsystematic activities were prevalent

in the unit such as wastage of fabric as leftover due to wrong estimation, mixing up of

checked and unchecked fabric, manual transportation of fabric rolls from one place to

another, imbalance in the sewing lines, unenthusiastic operators and so forth. But after

the lean implementation, lot of improvements were observed in terms of ordering only

2% extra fabric instead of 5% as done earlier; use of work aids such as attachments,

guides and folders; balancing of sewing lines by combining the operations; motivation

to employees for bringing up and implementing Kaizen ideas and so forth. Kaizen

events included rectifying the problem of safety that is electric shocks due to the

looseness of electric wires connecting to straight knife caused by passing, adjusting

and stretching the wire along the length of the table. Another small improvement

initiated was of reducing the sewing operations by the use of in house folders. The

management and employees made a plan to implement Kanban or pull system

between the departments in future.

Apparel unit D was a small scale export oriented unit established in 2003 in

Noida manufacturing ladies and children garments. The unit became aware of the lean

concept through a consultant agency. There was no industrial engineering department

in the unit; hence the lean team included mostly human resource professionals. It

affected the progress of the lean transformation journey to a great extent.

Before the lean implementation, no regular cleaning was done by the sweepers

or operators. The space was found crowded with parts and tools; un-needed items

stacked between workers; presence of excessive inventory; items and machines,

equipment and tools were dirty and not serviced regularly; and the equipments were

difficult to find. Threads, fabric, accessories in the store lay unsystematically on the

floor. Unidentified material, fabric, damaged tools lay under the tables, and garments

were hung on the fire extinguishers. 5S was first adopted in the store section leading

to proper arrangement and display of threads, accessories, and fabric. Different types

of wastes were identified in the apparel unit, which were then eliminated or removed

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by the use of lean tools and techniques. Visual displays included ‘no smoking’ or ‘no

mobile use’ instructions boards, types of fire extinguishers, first aid kit and

instructions, unit map; audit sheets, before and after pictures, boundary markings of

fire extinguishers, production board at the end of the line, mocks of sewing operations

at each work stations and so forth. Kaizen changes involving zero investment were

conducted in the unit by all the multi-skilled workers of various departments in

working together by addressing any problem or improve a process. All the chemicals,

fabric and accessories were kept separately on the marked rack and proper register

was maintained regarding its usage, proper alignment of machines and process bins

was done in such a way that it did not interfere with the movement of workers.

Apparel unit E was a small scale export oriented apparel unit established in

1988, manufacturing ladies and children garments. The continued pressure to improve

operational performance and search for best manufacturing practices were the main

driving forces behind implementing the lean which led to a little positive change in

the performance in term of 10% increase in productivity,15% increase in

efficiency,10% increase in quality,5% decrease in cost per piece,5% decrease in work

in Progress,5-10% decrease in the inventory level, 35% space saved, reduction in lead

time by 2-5%,and implementation of minimum two suggestions per month given by

the workers.

The process of lean transformation started with the selection of the highly

progressive and motivated workers to form the lean team implementing 5S all across

the unit through a standardized methodology. Few visual controls and danger zones,

like warning, fire extinguisher signs were posted at the appropriate places for

reference. All documents like files, format, registers, and log books were updated

periodically. Visual control was exercised by the display of visuals including waste

and 5S concept posters, safety features and instructions colour coded sheets,

important notices, and precautionary instructions.

Standard operating procedure (SOP) was prepared for stickering, as earlier

wrong stickering had created lot of quality issues at the production lines. Value

Stream Mapping (VSM) was manually represented on a paper and non-value added

activities were identified and reduced. Problem solving techniques were used to assess

and document the current inventory levels in specific related areas like the accessories

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stores. Kaizens were initiated by different departments under the supervision of the

consultant focusing on the simplified solutions like feasibility study of the purchase of

a thread rewinding machine, playing of FM India radio station for motivating

employees to enthusiastically participate in all the work. Daily management system

was employed to reduce the defect hundred unit (DHU) of the selected style from

34% to 11%, which was a good sign of improvement. Management and the

employees wanted to focus on further lowering DHU level to 5%.

Before lean implementation, all left over thread reels and accessories were

unsystematically placed, dumped in plastic bags in corners and on the floor, no

standardized procedure followed, no visual information, no regularity in cleaning

sewing area and high level of defects were noticed. But after lean implementation,

samples, fabric, accessories, garments were systematically arranged and proper

records maintained; cloth bags were made to store and labelled as per buyer for easy

identification; implementation of standard operating procedure for ticketing and

ordering extra accessories; use of colour coded flag system; and regular cleaning and

sweeping of the floor . 5S implementation all over the unit is planned for future.

Apparel unit F manufacturing ladies and children wear and was an ISO: 9001

certified export oriented unit established in 2003 in Noida The unit’s industrial

engineering department, comprising of 4 people handled the lean initiation process.

Moreover, the management kept a track and control on all the activities so that any

deviation is immediately reported and the explanation for such incident asked.

Management support, continuous trainings and the improvements guided by an

competent lean consultant were the main critical success factors found, which led to

the increase in productivity from 22,41,331 garments to 31,49,668 per year ;increase

in the efficiency from 42.61% to 51.81%;decrease in defect per hundred unit(DHU)

from 8% to 6%;cost per minute from Rs. 0.99 per minute to Rs. 0.81 per min;

decrease in work in progress from 4 days to 1 day; decrease in inventory from 34,000

per day to 24,000 per day; breakdown hours in months from 9,234 per year to 7,110

per year; decrease in garment rejection from 8% to 4-5%; decrease in lead time from

40-45 days to 25-35 days; average style changeover time from 2-3 days to 3-4 hours;

and number of suggestions by workers to 5-6 per month.

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The lean transformation started with the trainings and implementation of 5S

concept. Different departments had prominently displayed big posters with clear

instructions of Do’s and Don’ts. Well defined storage spaces were provided for

various processes like fabric before and after checking, fabric relaxation, fabric

storage before cutting, surplus fabric and end bits, temporary fabric storage just before

cutting, cut parts storage, before and after auditing, finished cut parts storage, pattern

and marker storage with well defined instruction boards. Visual displays included

pictures of different wastes taken from the unit, pin ups of the waste types, line layout,

motivational cartoon characters and so forth. Small Minute Exchange of Dies

(SMED) concept and Kanban system was implemented in the unit. Poka yoke in the

form of pin table was used which simplified the matching and cutting of check fabric.

The apparel unit in which the lean manufacturing techniques was practiced, the

operations were documented and video graphed for identification and removal of all

the non-value added activities. Earlier, only supervisors were involved in the problem

solving, but, after lean implementation, workers got actively involved in the

improvement projects.

Before the lean implementation, traditional system of manufacturing was

followed with no standards for man, machine and method, no awareness about wastes,

mixing of different lot size cuttings in cutting section, manual transfer of cut bundles

to sewing section, lack of communication among the departments, and low employee

engagement. But, after Lean implementation, practice of identifying non- value added

activities by the workers and writing it on paper slips and sticking it on the chart

indicating types of wastes each. Other improvement activities involved use of

Computer Aided Manufacturing (CAM), mechanized spreaders, use of pin table to

align stripes and checks, use of specially designed inspection table with separate

drawers to keep rejected and passed pieces, change in layout, and right first time

principle was adopted. Various facilities were introduced to the employees such as

canteen facility, introduction of chillers, hostel facility, award ceremonies and so

forth. Cellular arrangement was set up in the sewing department engaging operators

into semi-autonomous and multi-skilled teams or work cells, who manufactured

complete garments. Kaizen or improvement ideas suggested by the employees

involved improving source quality, team concept and one point flow. The unit made

plans to work towards operator involvement and empowerment in future.

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Apparel unit G was SA8000 certified medium scale export oriented unit

manufacturing the ladies and children wear and was established in 1992 in Gurgaon.

The unit was motivated by the desire to improve profit, service, price and ultimately

led to many progressive changes like increase in productivity from 8.57 to 11.52

pieces per operator, increase in efficiency from 40% to 56%,decrease in DHU from

10% to 6%,decrease in work in progress from 250 pieces to 60 pieces, garment

rejection from 5% to 2%,decrease in lead time from 90 days to 60 days, decrease in

manpower from 35 to 20,style change over time from 10-12 hours to 3-4 hours, and

suggestions by the operator from none to two per week.

5S and Visual displays included lean posters, motivational quotes, companies’

policies, audit sheets, marking of departments and areas, performance status boards,

unscannable carton stickers, colour-coded country wise stickers for cartons, labeling

of baskets, instructions, safety tips and so forth. Value Stream Mapping helped in

identifying the various wastes and later the future Value Stream Mapping was done to

eliminate or remove them by use of lean tools and techniques. The sewing setup was

changed to modular or cellular line that is U- shaped. Clockwise checking and

Kanban or pull system was implemented in the sewing lines leading to reduction in

rejected pieces and bundle size from 12 to 3-4.

Before the lean, the unit was resorting on traditional mass production system

and showed no healthy coordination among line supervisors and workers; under

utilization of employees; slow transmission of information upstream and downstream;

high breakdowns of machines; no record of inventory all along the value chain and so

forth. After the lean implementation, various improvements included coding of racks

in the store room and maintenance of record of accessories, making of skill matrix,

group incentives, standardized work practices were planned in production processes.

The unit plans to implement 5S in merchandising and provide training to the

operators.

Apparel unit H was a medium scale export oriented unit located in Greater

Noida, established in 1979 and was producing only the ladies garments. The unit

initiated the lean in 2008 with the aim to improve its performance. A competent

consultant and continuous efforts to improve were the two main critical success

factors which led to positive changes in the performance in terms of increase in

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production from 10-12 pieces per operator to 16-17 pieces per operator; increase in

efficiency from 27% to 45%,decrease in Defect Hundred Unit(DHU) from 14% to 6-

7% ,reduction in work in progress from 3 days to 4 hours, garment rejection reduced

from 6-7% to 2-3%, reduction in helpers in one sewing line was from 4 to 2, and

suggestions from operators came to 10-12 per month.

In this unit, 5S was the first tool to be implemented as it formed one of the

foundation features of lean transformation process. Different colours like red, green,

white and yellow and shapes such as circle, triangle and rectangle were used as

signage for prohibition, attention, fire fighting, and obligation, indicating information,

danger and safe conditions. Cut pieces were kept on racks as the Kanban signals were

sent to the sewing line. Visual displays included the production efficiency board,

defect hundred unit (DHU) status, 5S thermometer, aisle markings etc. Current Value

Stream Mapping and Future Value Stream was mapped eliminating the bottlenecks

that led to the systematic flow of material and information. Radio Frequency

Identification (RFID) based bundle tracking and the traffic signal light system was

implemented in the sewing section to motivate the operators to produce good quality

garments.

Before Lean implementation, there was unsystematic and haphazard

placement of items all over the apparel unit, problem of late delivery, lot of reworks

and defects, and demotivated labour force. But with the Lean implementation, lot of

small improvements like neatly hung patterns in cloth bags to protect them from wear

and tear, and getting dirty; organization of workplace to eliminate hesitation and

disorder and to ease information and material flow; incentive policy; use of shadow

markings done on checking tables; and labeling of material in the accessory store as

per style number in their respective shelves were seen.

Various Kaizens were initiated. One such improvement activity initiated was

of the use of cloth bags made of left over fabric for transferring cut piece bundle from

one workstation to another instead of polybags. Another Kaizen initiated was that of

introduction of thread cutting in the sewing line in order to optimize the manpower

utilization in the finishing department. Various error proofing techniques were used in

the information generation and reporting system also. The unit plans to strictly

implement 4th and 5th S that is standardization and audits in future.

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Apparel unit I was a small scale export oriented unit manufacturing the ladies

and children garments in Noida since 1989.The pressure to increase the profit was the

main motivating force behind the initiation, but the managerial push and consultant’s

knowledge had proven to be the actual reason behind its success. The improvements

observed were the 10%increase in productivity,15% increase in efficiency,5%

increase in quality,5% decrease in cost per piece,2% decrease in work in Progress,

30% space saved, style change over time reduced to one week, and 2-3 suggestions

per month by workers.

It started with the training on the topics of basic lean concept, 7 wastes, and

problem solving methods and forming of a lean team and then an in-depth awareness

was provided to all factory workers on the 5S stages. Various identification markers

were used in the unit such as location markers in the form of tape strips on files,

colour coding, and numbering; quantity markers in the form of signs indicating

minimum or maximum and standard containers. Standard methods in the form of

charts of standard time were displayed, work sequence, standard procedures; tags in

the form of red tag on items which were not needed, on defects and broken items; and

so forth. Personnel boards in the form of availability, assignment, and the location of

departments were displayed.

Before lean implementation, there was untidy arrangement of materials and

machines, prevalence of manual pattern making, process waste lying in the walkway,

traditional system of sewing clothes with all sewing operators sitting on separate

tables with machines and so forth. Colour coding standards, Visual control, Value

Stream Mapping were followed and used for bringing about improvements. After lean

implementation, procedure of performing particular operation was pasted in front of

each worker seat, use of CAD for making patterns, proper placement of thread reels in

boxes on the racks and maintenance of records, and attachment of thread clippers to

their machine to be used by operators etc. Kaizen events were initiated including

restructuring of the fabric store to increase its storage capacity. Another Kaizen

initiated was of arranging the patterns in the sampling room as per the buyer

requirements to reduce wastage in finding them again during the production times.

Future plans include reduction in changeover time of the styles.

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Apparel unit J was a medium scale export-oriented unit manufacturing men’s,

ladies and children wear and was established in 1992 in Faridabad. The unit searched

for the best manufacturing practices and the management support with a long term

vision which motivated them to implement the lean. Progressive changes were

experienced which included increase in the efficiency from 46% to 61% and the

reduction in lead time from 4 hour 50 min to 3 hour 25 min. Time constraints and

resistance to support were the two major inhibiting factors which hindered the

complete lean implementation in the unit. This unit had built a new green factory, to

produce ladies top and t-shirts for men, and, it is the second green apparel factory in

North India.

Visual aids such as 5S zone depicting the various initiatives were done to

implement 5S; benefits of 5S written in Hindi, man-machine waiting chart were

displayed for identifying both the man and machine idle time; and outsourcing status

as well as in-line status was displayed. Equipment was maintained by the

implementation of Total Productive Management (TPM) system. Single Minute

Exchange of Dies (SMED) tool was implemented with the actual measurement of

style change over time. Style change over time was also calculated for a style for a

month as 132,667 seconds (7% of total unit waste) and on the basis of this data,

underutilized work time was reduced to 45.56 minutes per day.

Before lean implementation, conditions like no standardized procedures, no

visual displays, unsystematic flow of material, time consuming fusing operation, and

time consuming flow of material were prevalent. After lean, many improvements

were observed like standard operating procedure (SOP) of measurement were made,

balanced flow of operations, change of layout, combining operations by use of folders

,conducting of work study, segregation of size stickers etc. Kaizen teams for

continuous improvement were formed throughout the unit. Sewing lines were

transformed into U-shape lines which emphasized the flow orientation so that only

minimum movement was required to move work pieces from one station to another.

The apparel unit revealed that their next step in the lean journey would be the regular

5S audits and bringing about changes in sewing section from assembly line to cell.

The cross case analysis of all the units revealed that lean was initiated with

conducting of trainings and workshops to educate the employees regarding the lean

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concept in all units. Awareness sessions were organized for top executives, including

the CEO about the lean in order to get commitment and endorsement to continue with

the implementation. Most of the apparel units were using some of the same old tools

of production. 5S, Visual Management and Kaizen were found to be the most

commonly implemented lean tools. The 5S and Visual Control tools were often the

first lean tools being implemented by them. Various trainings programme were found

really helpful for all the apparel units, but “learning by doing” approach was the main

reason behind the success of the process. The majority of the apparel units surveyed

were using only a few lean tools, but all had planned to implement more in the future.

Apparel manufacturing units interviewed and surveyed which had initiated the

process of lean implementation had not yet seen the success level that Toyota had

achieved by following this system religiously for more than 40 years. However, the

companies surveyed had just started their lean journey and had been using lean for

less than 5 years. It has been agreed by them that the changes and improvements from

using lean take months and even years to become recognizable. Moreover, it is a well

known fact that lean is a long term commitment and that “the results are not apparent

overnight”. In some units it had taken over three years for some benefits of lean to

reveal itself and that it is not yet over, and the companies also felt that they still have a

long way to go on their lean journey. Management as well as all the employees who

were following lean practices was satisfied with the lean implementation as they were

aware of its benefits and in future, they see an increase in the importance of the lean

in the garment industry.

Various factors which had driven most of the units to initiate lean

manufacturing system were rated from 1 to 5. It was found that maintaining

competitive advantage in service, quality and price was found to be the most highly

rated with an average mean of 4.20, followed by pressure to improve profit ,achieve

shorter lead and search for best manufacturing practices. The lowest in rating was the

factor desire to minimize capital blocked in inventory. Short term focus and lack of

consistency with the mean of 4.60 was the most prominent inhibiting factor, followed

by other factors such as lack of resources, employee’s resistance to change, and lack

of understanding and knowhow for implementation having mean of 4.20, 3.40 and 2

respectively. The lowest in rating was given to the lack of management support as in

most of the units, management was supportive. Management Support was found to be

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the most important critical success factor responsible for proper and smooth

implementation of lean with a mean of 4.20.It was followed by trainings and

competent lean consultant having mean of 4 and 3.80 respectively. Lowest score that

is 2.60 was obtained by organizational culture of effective communication and

continuous improvement and employee involvement and empowerment. Highly

significant p-value of ANOVA demonstrated that the differences between the mean of

all the lean driving, inhibiting and critical success factors were statistically significant.

Thus all the above stated factors have effect on the units to initiate lean

manufacturing.

The current status of lean initiatives of 20 apparel units in the National Capital

Region was assessed using an assessment matrix which was classified into six phases

namely traditional (Non-Lean), planning and initiation stage (phase I), early phase or

improving (phase II), extensive introduction(phase III), advanced

implementation(phase IV) and world class(phase V). The status of lean initiation in

the form of 6 phases was computed from the average score of the 33 lean key

practices distributed amongst the seven major lean bundles namely, Leadership and

Culture, Workforce Orientation, 5S, Visual Management, Total Productive

Maintenance, Total Quality Management and Just in Time at the six levels from

baseline to completely signifying the extent of the lean manufacturing

implementation. Score obtained in seven different Lean criterias were added to get the

total score and accordingly the phase of lean initiation was decided.

Analysis of the scores revealed that all the non- lean Initiated units which were

at the phase non-lean were traditional in their working. They had minimal lean

awareness and had not introduced the lean principles. Fifty percent of the lean

initiated units which were at phase I that is at the planning, learning and initiation

stage. These units had some awareness of the lean concept and some sporadic

improvement activities were underway in few areas. Highly noticeable proportion of

units was at early phase II of improvement. In all the units, lean orientation of

workforce and management and general awareness and openness to change was

observed. Only one lean initiated unit was at phase III that is at extensive lean

introduction and results visibility phase. This unit had adopted the systematic

approach in varying stages across most areas achieving solid progress which was

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measured in terms of performance metrics and also good sustainment was observed in

most of its improvements.

Analysis of the association of lean awareness and phases of the lean initiation

revealed that 5 apparel manufacturing units which were extremely aware of the lean

concept had initiated lean and out of it, 4 units were at phase II and one unit at phase

III of lean initiatives. Four apparel units which were very aware of lean concepts were

at phase I of lean initiation. Four units which were not aware of the concept at all had

not initiated lean in their manufacturing unit. Out of five units, which had initiated

lean since more than 2 years, four were at phase II and only one was at Phase III of

lean initiation. Five units which had initiated lean in last 2 years were at phase I,

while 10 units which had not initiated lean were at non-lean phase. More than 16 lean

tools and practices were adopted by units which were at phase III of lean initiation.

Maximum 12 tools were adopted by apparel manufacturing units which were at phase

II while maximum 10 tools were adopted by the units at phase I.

The average score of the lean assessment 82.7 was obtained by the lean

initiated units which revealed that they had adopted most of the tools and practices

well and were continuously making efforts towards improvement, but, still have a

long way to go. Fair majority of the lean initiated units that is 66% had implemented

Visual Management quite well followed by 60% high scores in 5S and Leadership

and Culture both; followed by Workforce Orientation, Total Quality Management,

Total Productive Maintenance and Just in Time. Low score of lean initiation that is

17.5 was obtained by non-lean initiated units which depicted that various important

elements of lean implementation were not prevalent in them.

Fair majority that is 62% of lean initiated units had an informal lean strategy

and time-line implementation; formation and working of lean team; had defined key

performance metrics with management support and guidance. Fifty six percent of

these units had awareness regarding cultural issues and these changes were mainly

addressed via communication and team meetings.

Current level of workforce orientation revealed that majority of the employees

that is 60% were committed towards their work. Team work was found prevalent in

56% of the lean initiated units where most of the employees worked individually

towards a common goal. It was followed by 54% of the employees in the lean

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Initiated units were aware of the unit’s vision and goals and were trained and their

skills were up graded. Informal and formal excellent communication in 52% units was

there throughout the unit both upward and inward while in 48% units, operators were

multi-skilled and their cross skill training matrix existed and was posted visually.

Forty percent of the apparel units had various training and workers up-gradation

programs planned throughout the year.

The average score of the 5S revealed that 70% had clearly indicated and

dedicated positions for needed items, 68% of the workers had red tag area for

unneeded items, and 64% had regular cleaning of the area and equipment. Fifty six

percent units had standard work layout posted and consistently used, while; only 40%

units conducted 5S assessment or audits occasionally.

Assessment of current level of Total Quality Management revealed that in

62% lean initiated apparel units, workers understood the importance of Value Stream

Mapping (VSM) while 60% conducted shop floor and monthly meetings frequently.

In 58% units, even though operators were conscious of the quality produced, still

inline and end line checking was used to find defects. Fifty two percent of units had

moderate awareness regarding the usage of simple problem solving tools and used

some of them such as 5 why, Spaghetti diagram, VSM, Root cause analysis and Cause

and Effect analysis to prioritize and address problems, as well as had policy regarding

continuous improvement methods focusing on training as investment while in 50 %

unit’s planned and implemented Kaizens once in 14 days. Defective pieces were

detected immediately as occurred in production area due to the installation of simple

error proofing devices in 48% units. Least followed quality practice was that only

28% units had quality control circles operating in one or two departments to solve

problems. In these units, incentives were paid to encourage the use of suggestion

system for idea generation.

Current levels of Just in time in most of the lean initiated apparel units were

found to be below average. The sewing line layout was changed into cell by clubbing

various process steps after time study and its documentation in 48% of the lean

initiated units. Weeks’ worth of pieces was stored in between the sewing line in 46%

of units. Forty four percent units had standardized written operation sequence for

most of the operations after identification of value and non-value added steps.

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Noticeable proportion of units conducted weekly production planning with calculation

of takt time while only 26% units had awareness regarding setup time reduction and

very few actually gave training to workers and reduced the changeover time of styles.

All these lean practices were prevalent at a very low level in non-lean initiated apparel

manufacturing units.

The Mann-Whitney U test showed highly significant differences of the mean

scores of Leadership and Culture, Workforce Orientation, Visual Management, Total

Productive Maintenance, Total Quality Management and Just in Time among lean and

non-lean initiated apparel units. Similarly, significant difference in the mean scores in

5S and total lean assessment score was highlighted by t-test. Spearman rank

correlation analysis conducted to examine the relationship between individual lean

assessment variables, and the total lean assessment score revealed that the relationship

between lean assessment score and other variables namely Leadership and

Culture(ρs =.672**), Workforce Orientation(ρs =.626**), Visual Management(ρs

=.745***), Total Quality Management(ρs = .832***), and Just in Time((ρs =.794***) was

linear, positive and highly significant while its relation with Total Productive

Maintenance(ρs =.544**

) was found just significant. Pearson correlation between the

total lean assessment score and 5S (r=.659**)

was found significant and positive. It

was concluded that increase in lean assessment score correspond to increase in the

individual lean practice. Hence, third alternate hypothesis was accepted stating that

there is a significant difference in the lean initiation status between lean initiated and

non-lean initiated apparel units.

Out of 20 apparel units, five units were extremely aware of the lean concept

had an average lean assessment score of 105.6 followed by four units which were very

aware of the lean concept having an average lean assessment score of 63.3 in

comparison to only four apparel units were not at all aware of the lean concept,

having an average lean assessment score was 9.5.Anova analysis and post-hoc tests

using the Bonferroni Correction revealed that the lean awareness highly significantly

enhanced the status of Lean initiatives in apparel units as p<0.001. Fourth alternate

hypothesis was accepted stating that lean awareness makes a significant difference in

the current status of lean initiatives.

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The analysis of data revealed that out of total 20 units, 5 units which had

initiated lean since more than 2 years had an average lean assessment score of 105.60

followed by score of 59.80 obtained by units which had initiated lean in the last 2

years. Low score of 17.50 was obtained by 10 units which had not-initiated lean.

Highly significant value of ANOVA revealed that the number of years of lean

initiation had a positive impact on the lean assessment score signifying the status of

lean initiatives. Statistically, highly significant value of post-hoc tests namely

Bonferroni correction revealed that the number of years of lean initiation significantly

enhanced the status of lean initiatives (in terms of score) in apparel unit. Here fifth

hypothesis was accepted stating that year of lean initiation makes a significant

difference in the current status of lean initiatives.

Comparative analysis of the manufacturing and environmental performance of

the apparel units was carried out in terms of operator productivity, total labour

productivity, efficiency, work in progress, defects per hundred unit and percentage

defective among 10 lean and non-lean initiated units each. Data for analysis was

collected for a common garment that is any type of ladies top or shirt with full sleeves

and collar style in terms of number of helpers, tailors, checkers, supervisors,

machines used, working hours, loading ,production, number of garment inspected and

defective garments was collected for all the production days.

The result revealed that the lean initiated apparel export firms had higher

operator productivity, total labour productivity and efficiency than non- lean initiated

units. Defect per hundred units and percentage defective in lean initiated units were

found lower than non- lean initiated units except for work in progress. Mann Whitney

U test revealed a highly significant difference in the mean of operator productivity

and total labour productivity as 11.20 and 9.17 respectively in lean initiated units,

which was higher in comparison to non-lean initiated units, as 9.40 and 7.30

respectively. A t- test revealed that the mean of efficiency of lean and non -lean

initiated units was 62.12 and 38.40 respectively, which was found to be statistically

reliable, revealing that lean initiated units had higher efficiency than non-lean initiated

apparel manufacturing units. Lean initiated apparel manufacturing units (M = 513.72)

and the non- lean initiated units (M =734.34), demonstrated a non significant

difference in the work in progress. A t-test revealed a statistically reliable difference

between the mean of defect hundred unit, of lean initiated units and the non-lean

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initiated units as 8.18 and 12.60 respectively. Also a significant difference in

performance in terms of percentage defective was found highlighting that low

percentage defective was found in lean initiated units as 7.08 in comparison to the

non-lean initiated apparel manufacturing units as 11.53.Sixth hypothesis was

accepted stating that there is a significant difference in the productivity, efficiency,

defects per hundred unit per and percentage defective among two types of units

except for work in progress.

Data collected for calculation of carbon footprint included Scope I and II

sources from 10 lean and 10 non-lean initiated apparel manufacturing units. Data in

terms of electric units consumed; fuel consumed by boilers, generator, tumblers, air

heaters, company owned vehicles etc ; number of LPG cylinders consumed ;lubricants

consumed; biomass fuel used; refrigerant fuel used in refrigerators, air conditioners;

gas refills in fire extinguishers was collected for the annual year 2012 .Calculations

for carbon foot print was done as per the standards of ISO- 14064-1 and Guidance of

World Resources Institute and the World Business Council for Sustainable

Development. There was a difference in scope I and scope II average emissions in

both groups. Lean initiated unit’s emitted 361.93 tonnes CO2 e/year in scope I and

194.92 tonnes CO2 e/year in scope II, which was quite less in comparison to non-lean

initiated units, which emitted 557.32 tonnes CO2 e/year in scope I and 221.46 tonnes

CO2 e/year in Scope II. Average stationary, mobile and fugitive emissions in lean

initiated units was 432.29 tonnes CO2 e/year,113.94 tonnes CO2 e/year and 10.49

tonnes CO2 e/year in comparison to 501.92 tonnes CO2 e/year,257.76 tonnes CO2

e/year and 19.06 tonnes CO2 e/year respectively in non-lean initiated units of National

Capital Region(NCR).

Statistical analysis using Mann -Whitney U test revealed a non-significant

difference in the mean rank values that is 0.04 tonnes Co2 e/per sq. ft. of operation in

lean and 0.14 CO2 e/per sq. ft. of operation in the non-lean apparel units. T- test

analysis revealed a statistically reliable difference between the mean of carbon

footprint per full time employee in lean initiated unit and non-lean initiated unit which

was 0.78 and 2.38 tonnes CO2e/full time employee respectively. Similarly lean

initiated units and the non -lean initiated units with a mean of 11.78 and 27.05

tonnes CO2 e/rupee earned respectively demonstrated a highly significant difference

in the carbon foot print per rupee earned. Hence, lower carbon foot print per rupee

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earned was found in lean initiated unit in comparison to non-lean initiated apparel

manufacturing units. A t-test revealed that lean initiated unit (M =.0008) and the non

-lean initiated units (M =.0015), demonstrated a non-significant difference in the

carbon foot print per garment as p>.05. Null hypothesis was partially accepted as no

significant difference was found between the mean scores of carbon foot print per

garment and carbon footprint per sq ft of operation between lean initiated and non-

lean initiated apparel units. Seventh hypothesis was accepted for two variables which

implied that there is significant difference in the carbon footprint per full time

employee and carbon foot print per rupee earned of two types of groups.

Statistical analysis of the data revealed that there was a significant difference

between the mean for few performance criteria’s, implying apparel export firms

having implemented lean for more than 2 years had higher efficiency, lower defect

per hundred units and percentage defective in comparison to the units that had

implemented lean in last 2 years. But no significant difference in the mean scores of

operator productivity, total labour productivity and work in progress was found in

these two groups. T -test revealed that there was no statistically reliable difference

between the mean of operator productivity and total labour productivity as apparel

units having implemented lean in more than 2 years had 11.36 and 9.50 respectively

and the apparel units having implemented lean within last 2 years had 11.04 and 8.84

respectively. A t-test revealed that there was a statistically reliable difference between

the mean number of efficiency, work in progress, defects per hundred unit, percentage

defective as mean of apparel unit having implemented lean in more than 2 years was

72.86, 443.01,4.53, 4.13 respectively and the apparel units having implemented lean

in less than 2 years was 51.37,584.44,11.84,10.04 respectively.

The data revealed that mean of the carbon foot print of the apparel units

having implemented lean in more than 2 years was lower than those having

implemented lean in last 2 years. A t test reveals that there is a high statistically

reliable difference between the mean of carbon footprint per full time employee,

carbon footprint per rupee earned, carbon footprint per garment, carbon footprint per

sq. ft. of operation and as apparel unit having implemented lean in more than 2 years

has mean value of 0.38, 11.08, 0.0007 and 0.04 in comparison to 1.17, 12.48, 0.0008

and 0.03 respectively. Eighth hypothesis was partially accepted stating that year of

lean initiation makes a significant difference in the performance of an apparel unit in

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the terms of efficiency, quality and carbon foot print per full time employees. Null

hypothesis was accepted for some manufacturing and environmental variables stating

that year of lean initiation makes no significant difference in the performance of an

apparel unit in the terms of productivity, work in progress, carbon footprint per annual

turnover, carbon footprint per annual garment produced and carbon footprint per total

floor area.

The dissemination of information was carried out through an awareness

workshop. The purpose of this workshop was to illustrate the value and competitive

advantage of lean principles and practices via practical showcase of the apparent

changes after the Lean implementation in some industries. It was conducted in

coordination with Knitwear Club in Ludhiana and the participants included managing

directors of the apparel units and their representatives. It started with the emphasis on

the need to aggressively pursue lean manufacturing processes, due to the fierce

offshore competition and more demanding customers than in the past. The pressure on

today’s manufacturers and risk of losing business to lower cost and faster performing

competitors was also highlighted motivating the participants to adopt this world class

manufacturing techniques. The power point presentations on lean and carbon footprint

were intended with the purpose of providing an in-depth view of the concept and

history of lean manufacturing as inspired from the automobile sector. The essence of

lean as a waste removing philosophy was explained in simple words with the help of

pictorial examples. Lean being a profit driver was discussed in terms of wastes and

lean practices for example Single Piece-Flow, Just in time(JIT), Poka-Yoke, Right

First Time (RFT), Continuous Improvement, Value Stream Mapping (VSM), Takt

Time, Kaizen, Jidoka, Visual Control and so forth. It provided a concise introduction

to the principles of this powerful tool and included thought provoking discussions

regarding the future of the apparel industry further pushing the participant’s thoughts

on to how to modify the organization to speed up the flow of product along with

strategies of spotting waste for elimination. Interactive game sessions on 5S, Poka

yoke and standardized procedure were also organized to provide a good

understanding among participants regarding these complex tools. Discussion on

implementation methodologies of lean tools in the perspective of the garment industry

was also carried out.

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The statistically significant connection between lean and carbon footprint

was also discussed with the aim of highlighting the issue of Global warming. Sources

of green house gases emission and measures to reduce its emissions were also

discussed. Brochures providing information regarding lean and carbon footprint were

also distributed among the participants. Questionnaires were filled by the

participant’s in the pre and post -workshop and again after one month in order to

assess the gains and retention in knowledge. The analysis revealed that post

workshop, the respondents became more aware of the two concepts ;realized its

importance and benefits; were able to identify wastes; lean tools and practices;

identify green house gases; sources of carbon footprint emissions; and standards and

guidelines for carbon footprint calculation. Majority of the respondents stated that the

presentation was easy to understand and it had added to their existing knowledge and

most of the respondents rated it excellent. The participants were motivated to adopt

these environmental friendly processes by tuning up their behaviour in this direction

for the global safety purposes.

Conclusion

Lean manufacturing has caught the attention and imagination of few

progressive apparel exporters in India, but with the knowledge and experience base

expanding slowly, lean implementation will soon become a common place. Few

apparel manufacturing units of National Capital Region (NCR) have started the

journey generating a whole lot of success stories with big difference in terms of

delivering real business profits and performances, while others are still hesitant and

struggling in their traditional setup.

To conclude, the study has shown that when an organization is involved in

lean, high productivity, efficiency and quality are possible along with other

environmental improvements in terms of carbon footprint. But still there is a long way

to go as there is an evidence of a variety of inhibiting factors preventing full

implementation in the apparel units. These factors must be accurately identified and

analyzed in every unit, and appropriate action must be taken to overcome them before

the full benefits of lean manufacturing can become a reality. Awareness needs to be

created in the apparel sector regarding the fact that lean is a incredibly continuous

successful system and worthwhile destination for those organizations which are

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committed to it for the long term inspite of many distractions along the way.

Everyone in the apparel manufacturing units must understand that the lean

manufacturing is here to stay and is a way to sure success.

Need and Significance of the Study

a) This research will present guidance to apparel manufacturing units in the

implementation of lean manufacturing tools according to their unit

requirements.

b) This research would help in generating awareness and understanding of the

lean manufacturing concept and tools and their practical implementation in the

apparel sector.

c) This research will help in not only exploring the new problems faced while

introducing the new production philosophy into the organization but will also

explore factors influencing its successes and failures within the apparel units.

d) This research will explore how well driving and inhibiting factors that has

been documented for automobile industry in the literature actually works in

the National Capital Region and also discover the factors that are unique to the

area.

e) Low level of lean awareness will be highlighted in the online survey

suggesting that the apparel industry owners who are not aware of the potential

benefits that lean will generate. Thus, this research will focus on the

dissemination of potential benefits of lean for the apparel industry through

awareness workshop.

f) It will facilitate to interpret space, light and other requirements of employees,

thus, will lead to improvement in their working conditions and health by

providing better options with reduction in carbon footprint.

g) The findings of this research will be helpful to the government in the

development of production strategy for organizational effectiveness through

the application of various lean manufacturing tools.

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h) The Lean assessment matrix developed can also be used by other apparel

manufacturing units actively engaged in their lean journey for future. The

assessment would give an opportunity to the units to benchmark themselves

against the “best in class” lean standard. Based on the benchmarking exercise

of comparing the company’s lean practices to the lean manufacturing

assessment “best in class” standard, a number of units will be able to define

remaining areas of improvement in their lean initiative. It will enable the

interested apparel unit’s to make forecasts on the relative cost of lean projects

upfront, anticipate lean benefits, and realize the degree of lean readiness.

i) The research will bring awareness regarding impact of new production

techniques on the productivity, quality, throughput time, carbon footprint

generation and efficiency. It will help the business leaders to take a stand and

commitment on climate change which will produce benefits in the form of

customer loyalty and help in capturing new markets, besides reducing Green

House Gases (GHG).

j) This research will be an effort in the direction of sensitization to change the

mind of firm owners and make them sensitive towards both the visible and

invisible factors that contribute to carbon footprint during the manufacturing

process. It will bring awareness among people especially manufacturers

regarding global warming.

k) Calculating carbon footprint generation is a valuable initiative towards

reducing climate change impact. Hence, this study will help to develop

pathway by shifting to carbon neutral technologies and promotion of energy

efficient methods.

l) It is hoped to bring behavioral changes in buyers leading to change in choices

by moving towards carbon neutral suppliers.

m) This research will provide motivation for some other apparel units to achieve

world class performance improvements just by providing right environment

through trainings as to be done in the selected lean initiated units. It will allow

some other apparel units to learn from their experiences and success stories so

that pitfalls could be avoided when implementing lean manufacturing.

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n) Awareness workshop describing apparel unit’s best practices will help in

providing motivation for others to adopt the system to derive benefits.

o) The measurement of carbon footprint in the apparel manufacturing units will

provide a great deal of learning in terms of understanding of the activities

causing carbon emissions to the employees as well as the data shared with

them and will be critical in suggesting suitable modifications in the

operations of the units. This research finding will further help them in

reducing the carbon footprint.

Scope for the Further Studies

Seeing the above usefulness of the study, the researcher recommends more

work or in-depth studies to be planned in this area in future and gives few

recommendations. Keeping in mind the limitations of this research, studies can be

extended in the different areas which are as follows:-

a) A longitudinal study could be conducted to understand the long-term effects

and benefits of lean in the Indian garment industry.

b) Longitudinal study to measure carbon footprint of an apparel unit could be

conducted and compared with the base emissions to know the reductions.

c) Greenhouse Gas Inventory could be made for apparel manufacturing units

including calculations of all three scopes of emissions to get the exact amount

of emissions.

d) Effects of lean implementation on performance factors of all the three

departments i.e. cutting, sewing and finishing could be studied in details.

e) A practical lean implementation projects could be conducted to develop a lean

production systems in any non-lean units through relevant training programs

and development of necessary physical infrastructures.

f) Performance improvement in apparel units can be studied after 5 years of its

implementation.

g) The scope of subsequent carbon inventories could be expanded to scope III

and link between water use and energy consumption can be included.