child labour and the garment industry

8/11/2019 Child Labour and the Garment Industry

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CHILD LABOUR IN TEXTILE

AND GARMENT SECTOR

PROFESSIONAL PRACTICES

2011

Amritaksha Duttagupta(Roll No.-04)Dipali Modi(Roll No.-06)Raj Mohan(Roll No.-14)

Rashmi Kumari(Roll No.-16)Rnu Ranjita !ugun(Roll No.-1")Dpartmnt o# $ashion %&hnolog'N$%-kolkata


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TABLE OF CONTENT

Sl No. Topics Pa! "o.

1. Executive Summary 1-9

2. Report 10-13

3. Cases of fashion houses getting involve !ith

chil la"or

1#-1$

#. %nia& Chil 'a"our in (arment %nustry 1)-2$

*. +ulnera"ility,o Enslavement mongChilrenn olescents %n (arment anufacturing %n

/ational Capital Region

2)

. Chil 'a"or an the (arment %nustry in

anglaesh.

29-32

$. Chil n uvenile 'a"or&- +arious cts

Relate ,o %nia

32-33

). Chil 'a"our an prevention & %nian

perspective

3#-3$

9. Recommenations & a holistic approach 3)-39

10. i"liography #0

EXECUTI#E SUMMAR$

2


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%&a' is c&il( la)o*+,

Chil la"our is the term !e use !hen !e tal a"out chilren !hose la"our is exploite either

"ecause they are too young to !or4 or !hen they are of !oring age "ut toil uner

conitions that put them at ris. %t oes not apply to chilren "et!een the ages of 12 an 1#

engage in light !or as escri"e "elo!4 or chilren 1*-1$ !ho !or "ut are not expose to

ha5ars.

,he %'6 inimum ge Convention4 19$3 7/o.13)8 applies to all economic sectors an all

!oring chilren4 unless a ratifying State initially exempts certain economic sectors an

occupations !here it anticipates significant ifficulties of enforcement. %t calls on ratifying

States to fix a general minimum !oring age4 allo!ing some flexi"ility for eveloping

countries in particular4 an sets out a range of minimum ages "elo! !hich no chil shoul

engage in light or ha5arous !or. ,he supplementing Recommenation /o. 1# provies

practical guiance on the protection of young persons at !or.

,he report escri"es the connections "et!een la"our "roers an force la"our particularly

the chil !orers in three regions of %nia&

%nian !orers 7chil an :uvenile8 migrating into omestic apparel prouction in

,irupur;

%nian !orers 7chil8 migrating into garment prouction in the /ational Capital

Region 7/CR8

%nian chil !orers migrating to the ile East for !or primarily in

manufacturing garments.

,he multifacete roles playe "y "roers in each region; the means "y !hich "roers create

vulnera"ilities to force la"or; an the unerlying social4 economic an legal factors that

contri"ute to the continuance of the system !ere examine in each locale.

INTERNATIONAL TRADE UNION CONFEDERATION -ITUC

INTERNATIONALL$ RECOGNISED CORE LABOUR STANDARDS IN INDIA

%nia has ratifie four-core %'6 la"our Conventions. %n vie! of restrictions on the trae union

rights of !orers4 iscrimination4 chil la"our4 an force la"our4 etermine measures areneee to comply !ith the commitments %nia accepte at Singapore4 (eneva an


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%nia has ratifie %'6 Convention /o. 100 on EAual Remuneration an Convention /o. 111

on


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programme4 an a"out )0 per cent !ere enrolle in community-"ase schools organi5e "y

t!o /(6s4 the anglaesh Rural vancement Committee 7RC8 an (ono Shah::o

Shangstha 7(SS8. "out 2 chilren receive other sills training. follo!-up agreement

!as esigne to eep these chilren in school "eyon age 1#. ,his successful pro:ect spurre

the (overnment of anglaesh to :oin other South sian nations in pleging to eliminatechil la"our "y 2010. Recogni5ing the importance of eucation in achieving this goal4 it also

launche a asic Eucation for Dr"an =oring Chilren @ro:ect in 2000.

I"(ia C&il( La)o*+ i" Ga+!"' I"(*s'+3

TIRUPUR

(arment prouction in ,irupur4 also no!n as ,-shirt city4F on %nia>s southernmost tip4

accounts for approximately )0 percent of %nia>s total prouction of nit!ear for export. t

the top of the supply chain are a small num"er of large factories4 employing 14000 !orers ormore per unit4 !ith smaller enterprises employing "et!een 100-2*0 !orers :ust "elo!.

,hese "usinesses contract to a large an complicate net!or of su"contractors that inclue

small factory- an home-"ase !orers. ,he movement of prouct "et!een these units4 an

often the supervision of !orers !ithin units4 is overseen "y a variety of la"or "roers. ,he

,irupur garment !orforce has traitionally "een ra!n from near"y regions; "ut !ith recent

high rates of gro!th4 there has "een a shortage of local !orers4 resulting in the migration

an4 in some cases4 trafficing of !orers from further a!ay. ,rae unions an local /(6s

estimate that approximately 0 percent of !orers in the region are contract !orers. %n

contrast to permanent employees4 contract !orers are employe on a piece rate "asis4 aily!age "asis4 or as apprentices. ?orce la"or !as ientifie in the case of girls an young

!omen traffice uner the Sumangali scheme7reference4?R6/,'%/E8 escri"e "elo!

uner ?orce 'a"orF.

%n ,irupur4 the preconitions for force la"or are pervasive among aolescent girls traffice

into the garment inustry in ,irupur uner !hat is no!n locally as the Sumangali Scheme4F

or analya ,hittam. Dner this system4 aolescent girls ranging in age from 1# to 1$ years

ol are recruite from other states4 incluing Gerala an nhra @raesh4 to !or for t!o- or

three-year perios in ,irupur-"ase textile factories. ,he la"or contract is conclue "et!een

a la"or "roer an the parents of the girl. la"or "roer4 !ho then transports the girl to,irupur an assumes responsi"ility for her la"or4 pays the parents a eposit up-front. ,he

salaries of the girls are !ithhel uring the t!o- or three-year !or perio an pai to the

parents upon return of the girls to their homes. ,his money is then use for the girls> o!ries.

Charges for foo an housing are eucte from the girls> salaries4 !ho are house at the

!orsite an their freeom of movement is severely curtaile. ,hey are not allo!e to leave

the factory grouns except at prescri"e times4 uring !hich they are accompanie "y a

security guar. +ulnera"ility to sexual a"use is high.

Na'io"al Capi'al R!io" -NCR

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%t is the largest commercial centre in /orth %nia. ,he gro!th of textiles in this region in the

past several years has "een nota"le4 comprising almost #0 percent of total inustrial gro!th.

,he /CR garment sector is extremely fragmente4 !hich maes monitoring of the supply

chain ifficult. Exporters o!n multiple prouction units an use numerous su"contractors.

igrant contract !orers are the preferre !orforce4 !ith non-permanent !orers

comprising some )0 percent of all factory employees in the /CR. (enerally4 these !orers

come from rural impoverishe "acgrouns an are first-generation inustrial !orers an

uner age. ,hese !orers generally o not settle in /CR "ut migrate "ac to their home

states each year after a prouction cycle. ale migrants preominate in garment factories.

ome!or is also present in the supply chain4 particularly for highly la"or-intensive an

speciali5e functions4 such as em"roiery. 'a"or exploitation in em"roiery H particularly

among chil !orers H is pervasive4 !ith chilren "eing traffice "y "roers from other

states an "eing hel captive in clear situations of force la"or.

4ERELA/GULF STATE

,here are an estimate 3. million %nian migrant !orers in the six (ulf countries of the

ile East4 incluing 1.# million in Saui ra"ia; 1.2 million in the Dnite ra" Emirates

7DE8; an the remaining in ahrain4 Gu!ait4 6man4 an Iatar. %nian !orers originate

largely from southern states of %nia. ,he states of Gerala an ,amil /au alone account for

#3 per cent of the emigration clearances4 sening )149*0 an $941* !orers respectively.

,he DE is the ma:or receiving country of migrant !orers from Gerala; an its tertiarysector H trae4 restaurants4 transport4 communications4 real estate4 "usiness4 an manual an

management services H is the largest employer of migrant !orers from %nia. J ll

migrants use la"or "roers in some form to facilitate travel an arrange for visas. ecause of

the high num"ers of %nians migrating to (ulf countries from the state of Gerala4 Geralite

migrants !ere the focus of this stuy. %nternational migration "et!een the state of Gerala an

the (ulf countries sho!e a high incience of force la"or.

6riginally4 research !as focuse on !orers in construction an infrastructure; ho!ever4

other inustries !ere foun to have similar patterns of force la"or such as !orers acting as

rivers4 coos4 an omestic help for iniviuals in (ulf countries. Since almost half of all

!orers in the t!o Gerala istricts surveye !ore in the DE4 this report focuse on that

countryKs la"or la!s an la"or ynamics4 although other (ulf countries are iscusse.

HAITI APPAREL INDUSTR$

,hirty years ago4 aitiLs apparel inustry !as a relia"le supplier of assem"le goos to the

D.S. maret an employe as many as 1004000 !orers. Chances !ere goo that D.S.

"ase"all pitchers !ere thro!ing "alls se!n in aiti4 an that D.S. chilren !ere sleeping inpa:amas se!n in aiti. ,he intervening years have "een ifficult for aiti4 mare "y a

6


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struggle to sta"ili5e governance4 to institutionali5e respect for political an human rights4 to

moerni5e infrastructure4 an to encourage environmental ste!arship re"uil after ecaes

uner the poor leaership of the


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the greatest possi"le a!areness of chilren>s rights an the amage to chilren cause "y

chil la"our

R!c!"' D!9!lop!"'s : A Mo(!l To S&o;.

T&! Ba"la(!s& Ga+!"' Ma"*ac'*+!+s< a"( E7po+'!+s< Associa'io" -BGMEA5 incolla"oration !ith the %nternational 'a"or 6rgani5ation 7%'68 an D/%CE?4 evelope the

Chil 'a"or @ro:ect to eliminate chil la"or in the 24*00 mem"er factories4 an to provie an

alternative to former chil la"orers in the form of an eucation program.

REPORT

I"'+o(*c'io" C&il( La)o*+

%&a' is C&il( La)o*+,

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Chil la"or is !or that harms chilren or eeps them

from attening school. roun the !orl an in the D.

S.4 gro!ing gaps "et!een rich an poor in recent

ecaes have force millions of young chilren out of

school an into !or. ,he %nternational 'a"or6rgani5ation estimates that 21* million chilren

"et!een the ages of * an 1$ currently !or uner

conitions that are consiere illegal4 ha5arous4 or

extremely exploitative.

Dnerage chilren !or at all sorts of :o"s aroun the !orl4 usually "ecause they an their

families are extremely poor. 'arge num"ers of chilren !or in commercial agriculture4

fishing4 manufacturing4 mining4 an omestic service. Some chilren !or in illicit activities

lie the rug trae an prostitution or other traumatic activities such as serving as soliers.

C&il( la)o*+refers to the employment of chilren at regular an sustaine la"our. ,his

practice is consiere exploitative "y many international organi5ations an is illegal in many

countries. Chil la"our !as employe to varying extents through most of history4 "ut entere

pu"lic ispute !ith the avent of universal schooling4 !ith changes in !oring conitions

uring the inustrial revolution4 an !ith the emergence of the concepts of !orersK

an chilrenKs rights.

%n many evelope countries4 it is consiere inappropriate or exploitative if a chil "elo! a

certain age !ors 7excluing househol chores4 in a family shop4 or school-relate !or8. n

employer is usually not permitte to hire a chil "elo! a certain minimum age. ,his

minimum age epens on the country an the type of !or involve. States ratifying

the inimum ge Convention aopte "y the %nternational 'a"or 6rgani5ation in 19$34 have

aopte minimum ages varying from 1# to 1. Chil la"or la!s in the Dnite States set the

minimum age to !or in an esta"lishment !ithout restrictions an !ithout parentsK consent at

age 14 except for the agricultural inustry !here chilren as young as 12 years of age can

!or in the fiels for an unlimite num"er of non-school hours. ChilrenKs ct for

Responsi"le Employment 7CRE ct8.

,he incience of chil la"our in the !orl ecrease from 2* to 10 percent "et!een 190 an

20034 accoring to the =orl an.

HISTORICAL BAC4GROUND


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la"our. Chil la"our can also "e efine as the full-time employment of chilren !ho are

uner a minimum legal age.

,he +ictorian era"ecame notorious for employing young chilren in factories4 mines4

chimney s!eeps an the garment inustry. Chil la"our playe an important role in the

%nustrial Revolutionfrom its outset4 often "rought a"out "y economic harship4 Charles


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P+!s!"' (a3 Sc!"a+io

Chil la"our is still common in some parts of the!orl4 it can "e factory !or particularly

the textile an garment inustry4 mining4 agriculture4 helping in the parentsK "usiness4

having oneKs o!n small "usiness7for example selling foo84 or oing o :o"s. Some

chilren !or as guies for tourists4 sometimes com"ine !ith "ringing in "usiness forshops an restaurants 7!here they may also !or as !aiters8.

6ther chilren are force to o teious an repetitive :o"s such as& assem"ling "oxes4

polishing shoes4 stocing a storeKs proucts4 or cleaning. o!ever4 rather than in

factories ans!eatshops4 most chil la"our occurs in the informal sector4 Nselling many

things on the streets4 at !or in agriculture or hien a!ay in housesBfar from the

reach of official la"our inspectors an from meia scrutiny.

ccoring to D/%CE?4 there are an estimate 2*0 million chilren age * to 1# in chil

la"our !orl!ie4 excluing chil omestic la"our. ,he Dnite /ationsan the%nternational 'a"or 6rgani5ationconsier chil la"our exploitative4 !ith the D/

stipulating4 in article 32 of theConvention on the Rights of the Chilthat&

...States @arties recogni5e the right of the chil to "e protecte from economic exploitation

an from performing any !or that is liely to "e ha5arous or to interfere !ith the

chilKs eucation4 or to "e harmful to the chilKs health or physical4 mental4 spiritual4

moral or social evelopment. lthough glo"ally there is an estimate 2*0 million

chilren !oring.

%n the 1990s every country in the !orl except for Somaliaan theDnite States"ecame a

signatory to the Convention on the Rights of the Chil4or CRC. Somalia eventuallysigne the convention in 2002; the elay of the signing !as "elieve to "een ue to

Somalia not having a government.

,he %nternational 'a"our 6rgani5ation>s %nternational @rogramme on the Elimination of

Chil 'a"our 7%@EC84 foune in 19924 aims to eliminate chil la"our. %t operates in ))

countries an is the largest program of its in in the !orl. %@EC !ors !ith

international an government agencies4 /(6s4 the meia4 an chilren an their

families to en chil la"our an provie chilren !ith eucation an assistance.

12
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Worldhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Worldhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Small_businesshttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sweatshophttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sweatshophttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/UNICEFhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/United_Nationshttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/International_Labor_Organizationhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Convention_on_the_Rights_of_the_Childhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Convention_on_the_Rights_of_the_Childhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Somaliahttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/United_Stateshttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/United_Stateshttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Convention_on_the_Rights_of_the_Childhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Convention_on_the_Rights_of_the_Childhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Worldhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Small_businesshttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sweatshophttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/UNICEFhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/United_Nationshttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/International_Labor_Organizationhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Convention_on_the_Rights_of_the_Childhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Somaliahttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/United_Stateshttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Convention_on_the_Rights_of_the_Child


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P!+c!"'a! o c&il( as %o+6!+s -o" a" a9!+a! i" '&! ;o+l(/So*+c!/ Bas!( o" '&! BBS

(a'a

Ris6 a+!as c&il(+!" a+o*"( '&! ;o+l(

Source:-Queensland Review of Child Labour: discussion paper

%n accorance !ith the frame!or provie "y the %'6 Convention 13)4 these riss fall

!ithin t!o "roa categories&

Ca'!o+3 o"!& Li&' ;o+6 +is6sH the issue of Llight> !or 7light4 safe !or !hich oes not

place the chil at ris of harm or :eoparise their right to an eucation84 an

Ca'!o+3 ';o Ris6s 'o &!al'&5 sa!'3 a"( ;!ll)!i" - riss to the Lhealth4 safety an

!ell"eing> of young !orers.

CASES OF FASHION HOUSES GETTING IN#OL#ED %ITH CHILD LABOR

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GAP

fter the ne!s of chil la"ourers !oring in em"roiery inustry !as uncovere in

the Sunay 6"server on 2) 6cto"er 200$4 activists s!ung into action. ,he (@ %nc. in

a statement accepte that the chil la"ourers !ere !oring in prouction of (@ Gis

"louses an has alreay mae a statement to pull the proucts from the shelf. %n spite of the

ocumentation of the chil la"ourers !oring in the high-street fashion an amission "y all

concerne parties4 only the S


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exception. %n 2004 (ap %nc. cease "usiness !ith 23 factories ue to coe violations . =e

have 90 people locate aroun the !orl !hose :o" is to ensure compliance !ith our Coe of

+enor Conuct. s soon as !e !ere alerte to this situation4 !e stoppe the !or orer an

prevente the prouct from "eing sol in stores. =hile violations of our strict prohi"ition on

chil la"or in factories that prouce prouct for the company are extremely rare4 !e havecalle an urgent meeting !ith our suppliers in the region to reinforce our policies.N

H=M

%n a+a


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Reprter rasil that ara shoul "e responsi"le for all of its suppliers4 an it is a uty of the

company to "e a!are of ho! its merchanise is "eing prouce.F ,he report also suggests

that there are 30 other factories !ith similar !oring conitions proucing for ara in ra5il.

#ic'o+ias Secret>s proucts is actually prouce "y a company that largely relies on

force chil la"orers.

,he report follo!s the heart"reaing story of 13-year-ol Clarisse4 !ho !ors at a urina

?aso farm that supplies much of +ictoria>s Secret>s cotton.

=hat>s !orse4 +ictoria>s Secret once marete the garments mae !ith urina ?aso cottonas goo for !omen4 goo for the chilren !ho epen on themFHthe result of a 200$ eal "y

the company to "uy fair-trae an organic cotton to support sustaina"le ra! materials an

"enefit female frican farmers.F Dnfortunately4 accoring to the report4 the premium prices

associate !ith fair-trae an organic cotton have create fresh incentives for farmers in

urina ?asoHa country !hose population largely lives off of :ust W2 a ayHto exploit chil

la"orers.

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D!!"c! o c&il( la)o*+

Concerns have often "een raise over the "uying pu"licKs moral complicity in purchasing

proucts assem"le or other!ise manufacture ineveloping countries !ith chil

la"our. o!ever4 others have raise concerns that"oycottingproucts manufacture

through chil la"our may force these chilren to turn to more angerous or strenuousprofessions4 such as prostitution or agriculture. ?or example4 a D/%CE?stuy foun

that after the Chil 'a"or


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countries of the %'6 at the %nternational 'a"our Conference in une 199) an in the


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ault migrant la"orers hailing from states near an far4 incluing nhra @raesh4

Dttar @raesh4 6rissa4 ihar4 ssam4 an =est engal4 as !ell as from other istricts

!ithin ,amil /au.

Research foun clear an unAuestiona"le conitions of force la"or among the girls !oringuner the Sumangalischeme. roers are a ey element of the system4 eceiving girls an

their families a"out :o" types an pay. Chilla"orers are not recruite through la"or "roers

an !ere not foun4 in general4 to "e in situations of force la"or. o!ever4 the practice of

parents taing an avance from the chil>s employer is common4 an creates a ynamic of

temporal e"t "onage. ult migrants are not generally recruite "y "roers an are

employe freely. 6ne interesting fining !ith respect to ault migrants is that in some cases4

they then "ecome "roers on the sie4 recruiting aolescent girls from their home regions into

the Sumangali scheme.

SG-+eritU !ore !ith local /(6s to ientify the geographic areas in an aroun ,irupur

!ith populations

most vulnera"le to "roer-relate force la"or. Specific locales for the stuy !ere selecte

"ase on the criteria "elo!&

magnitue of the pro"lem 7num"ers of chil4 Sumangali or contract la"orers8

the presence of la"or "roers;

specific vulnera"ilities of the !orers;

!oring conitions in !hich they are employe; an

ongoing or past interventions "y local "oies an organi5ations.

T&! s!c'o+ a"( i's !o+ap&3/Ti+*p*+

,he state of ,amil /au4 at %nia>s southernmost tip4 is home to a 12)-year-ol textile an

garment inustry. (arment prouction is prevalent in the near"y Coim"atore istrict4 "ut *0

ilometers south of Coim"atore is ,irupur city4 or ,-shirtF city4 as it has "ecome no!n.

,his region>s garment sector accounts for up!ars of 90 percent of %nia>s total prouction of

nit!ear for export. ,he process of prouction for nitte fa"rics is comprise of more than a

o5en steps resulting in a final stitche garment reay for maret4 !hich coul "e inner !ear4

hosiery4 t-shirts4 or virtually any garment mae from a stitche fa"ric.

,he inustry in ,irupur manufactures over $* percent of %nia>s national exports of nit!ear

an generates as much as # percent of %niaKs total export trae. ?or the European Dnion4

garment exports from ,irupur account for nearly #0 percent of the total volume4 an

contri"ute more than 0 percent of total value.N ore than *0 percent of ,irupurKs exports are

estine for the DS maret; "ut the main DS export is !hite uner!ear4 !hich as little to

the total value of exports to the Dnite States. ,he ,irupur nit!ear inustry>s exports are

irecte to customers in the follo!ing percentages& 10 percent to epartment stores4 0

percent to importers4 10 per cent to catalogue stores4 five percent to retailers4 an five percent

to esta"lishe consumer "rans.

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mong ma:or customers of ,irupur>s exports are Gitaso4 Savan"ee4 ,exman4 arine @ro4

/or!igs Clipper4 (reen Gnit!ear4 'otto4 rro!4 Roytex4 =al-art4 Gs !orforce is employe exclusively in nitting an stitching :o"s.

olescent girls recruite into the Sumangali scheme range in

age4 on average4 from 1# to 1) years ol.

,hey come to ,irupur on time-"oun contracts4 usually threeyears in uration. ,hey are provie !ith foo an loging4 "ut

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are pai the "ul of their salary at the en of the contract term in orer to use the money for

their o!ries. ,he girls are typically from various istricts of ,amil /au4 the neigh"ouring

states of Gerala an nhra @raesh4 an sometimes from more istant areas4 such as Dttar

@raesh4 6rissa4 an (u:arat. Dner the Sumangali SchemeF or analya ,hittam4 young

girls are offere a small monthly payment !ith a lump sum of approximately %/R 304000-#04000 7DS< #*-)08 at the en of a three year contract term. ,hey are house together on

company premises or in other locations a!ay from the factory grouns. ,he lump sum

payment serves as a o!ry4 an constitutes a tremenous sum of money for %nia>s

economically isavantage populations. Chilren at a core group meeting !ith /ational

Chil Rights Commission an other civil-society partners inicate the existence of

Sumangali Scheme in "oth ,irupur an Coim"atore.1) ,he Sumangali scheme sho!s clear

hallmars of force la"or4 such as "roers> eception a"out !or conitions4 !ithhel pay4

compromise freeom of movement4 an threats of violence. 200# stuy reporte that4

olescent4 unmarrie young girls of 1* to 2* are preferre in the textile an garment

inustry for their efficiency in !or output. any girls are recruite uner the Sumangali

Scheme H earning o!ry money for the girls> future marriages.

S*a"ali ;o+6!+s a+! !sp!ciall3 9*l"!+a)l! 'o la)o+ a"( &*a" +i&'s 9iola'io"s4 such

as ver"al a"use4 iscrimination4 excessive !or hours4 angerous !oring conitions4 an

non-payment of !ages an "enefits. ,hese girls are typically employe as apprenticesF4 "ut

the conitions of their employment contravene %nia>s la!s on the su":ect& pprentices are

suppose to "e provie training an then evaluate through sills testing for permanent

employment. ,hey are also prohi"ite from !oring overtime. /either of these provisions is

o"serve in the employment of girls uner the Sumangali scheme. recent stuy conucte

"y the ,irupur @eople>s ?orum for @rotection of Environment an 'a"our Rights attempte tosurvey an Auantify the source regions of these migrants to textile mills4 an covere the

regions an municipalities of ,irunelveli4 +iruhunagar4 ,heni4 Sivaganga an Garur. Survey

efforts inclue 14$#9 families of girls !ho have gone to !or in spinning mills4 sprea

across 399 villages from 1$ @anchayat Dnions 7an aministrative units comprise of 3-*

villages8 !ithin five istricts.

,he stuy reveale that nearly 1) percent of migrant girls !ere "elo! 1* years of age an 9

percent of them !ere "elo! 1) years of age. nother stuy reveale that approximately

324#* young !omen !orers !ere employe in 14$02 factories in ,irupur an the near"y

to!n of vinashi. 6f these young !omen4 )4)90 !ere aolescent girls an young !omen

!orers employe uner the Sumangali scheme. o!ever4 estimates as to the extent of the

pro"lem vary !iely. ccoring to the Campaign for the Rights of the Dnorgani5e =orers4

there are a"out 3$4000 girls an !omen !oring uner the scheme in 913 cotton mills in

,amil /au.

'a"or organi5ations have note the up!ar tren in mills using the scheme an aire the

issue pu"lically at a hearing organi5e "y the ,amil /au State Commission for =omen on

the Sumangali ,hittam.

separate stuy foun that girls !oring uner the Sumanagli scheme in ,irupur came from

!ithin the state of ,amil /au4 as !ell as from more remote regions of %nia4 incluing theistricts of Gerala4 nhra @raesh4 Dttar @raesh4 6rissa4 an (u:arat.

21


22/41

Chilren Ranging in age from eight to 1# years ol 7a"ove the age of 1#4 these !orers are

legally classifie as :uvenile !orers84 chil !orers are employe mainly has helpers4

primarily in su"contracting prouction units. ,hese chilren are often from families that havemigrate to ,irupur seeing !or4 !ith some from locally "ase families. =hen parents are

una"le to fin !or4 their chilren must help support the family "y earning !hat is

consiere an attractive !age in the garment inustry. ,he average income of these chilren

lies "et!een %/R 1* an %/R 30 per ay 7DS< .32-.#84 or a"out half of the aily rate for

ault !orers performing the same :o"s.

=hile conucting a factory assessment for an international "ran4 SG-+erite foun that over

12 percent of the factory>s !orforce !as comprise of :uvenile !orers age 1*-1).

@rimar4 the lo!-cost ritish clothing retailer4 recently issolve its relationship !ith three of

its ,irupur suppliers after iscovering they !ere su"contracting !or to chil la"orers. Chil

la"or is not limite to ,irupur4 an is present across %nia>s garment supply chain. ,he /(6

achpan achao nolan 74 or Save Chilhoo Campaign8 ientifie venors for the

(ap4 %nc. that !ere employing chil la"or in the s association to tae the lea in

implementating it to ensure maximum effectiveness.

,hough no figures are availa"le to confirm the expansion of recruitment of Sumangali girls

into regions as far a!ay as Dttar @raesh an ihar to ,irupur parallels the migration patterns

of ault male !orers4 confirming anecotal accounts that migrants have "ecome recruiters.

Gno!lege of the system may help them to operate uner the raarF4 cooperating !ith

net!orers of other "roers4 "ri"ing local officials !hen necessary4 an even putting pressure

on local families to sen their aughters into the system.

secon type of la"or contractor is engage "y a company to fin la"or to perform aparticular :o" !ithin a factory. ll management responsi"ilities of the !orforce performing

22


23/41

this specific tas lie !ith the contractor4 although legally the principal employer 7the factory8

hols ultimate final responsi"ility for la"or rights compliance. ,hese "roers either "ring

!orers to :oin the company4 or the employer assigns !orers uner them as contract

!orers. ,he employer oes this to ecrease their responsi"ility for these !orers4 !ith the

contractors responsi"le for the specific :o" !ith a specific num"er of !orers 7eitherrecruite "y the contractor or "y the employer8 to complete the :o". %f the employer !ere to

utili5e regular 7permanent8 !orers4 the company !oul have to oversee all aspects of

prouction an "e responsi"le for the prouct Auality4 the timeliness of prouction4 human

resource management4 an paying !orer !ages an "enefits

S!7 '+aic6!+s

,his group of "roers is the secon to "e systematically involve in force la"or. Sex

trafficers intersect 7an sometimes overlap8 !ith the "roers that recruit or manage girls

!oring uner the Sumangali scheme.,he "roer reporte that the system of sex trafficing

of girls involve in the Sumangali scheme is strong an resilient4 !ith entrenche net!ors

among supervisors4 other factory !orers4 company managers4 staff at company housing4 an

other la"or suppliers. ,he Sumangali scheme lens itself especially !ell to the sex trae4 !ith

young girls age 1*-20 living an !oring uner the constant supervision of managers an

hostel o!ners4 !ith no freeom of movement an very little a"ility to communicate freely

!ith family or friens. ,hese girls are systematically threatene an force into the trae.

ccoring to SG-+erite>s sources4 sex trafficers charge "et!een %/R 24*00-*4000 7DSs families4 a high eman for cheap

la"or4 an the relatively high !ages in the ,irupur garment sector !hen compare to other

la"or intensive inustries in ,amil /au 7such as "eei an match manufacturing84 ra!

chilren to employment. ?or example4 in the hosieryYnitting inustry4 chilren are a"le toearn !ages "et!een %/R 30-$0 per ay 7DS< .*-1.*084 !hile in the "eei inustry chilren

earn %/R 3 7DS< .08 per ay for 12-1# hours of !or.

#*l"!+a)ili'3 To E"sla9!!"' Ao" C&il(+!" A"( A(ol!sc!"'s I" Ga+!"'

Ma"*ac'*+i" I" Na'io"al Capi'al R!io"

,he /ational Capital Region 7/CR8 is the largest

commercial center in /orth %nia4 !ith the garment

sector playing a ey role in the economy. ,he /CR

garment sector is extremely fragmente4 !ith multiple

tiers of prouction facilities that vary in si5e from

large factories to home-"ase units. ,his maes

monitoring of the supply chain challenging. %n first-

tier factories an su"contracting units4 migrant contract !orers are the preferre !orforce.(enerally4 these !orers come from rural impoverishe "acgrouns an are first generation

inustrial !orers. roers H no!n as contractorsF H are integral to the functioning of the

supply chain& they serve various roles4 incluing as managers of temporary contracteF

!orforces on-site at large4 firsttier

factories; o!ner-su"contractors of secon- an thir-tier prouction units; recruiters of chil

"one la"orers; an contractors for net!ors of home-"ase em"roiery !orers.


25/41

Sangam +ihar4 ,ughlaa"a4 6hla @hase H %%4 (ovinpuri4 an atla ouse are all

areas surrouning the 6hla garments hu" in South


26/41

staffe "y a mixture of permanent employees an contract !orers !hile the secon tiers

receive su"contracte orers an are staffe primarily "y contract !orers.

lternatively4 some !or may tae place at small fa"rication units; informal prouction

units of 20 !orers or less. ?a"rication units cover a !ie variety of tass4 either unertaingthe same cutting an tailoring as the first- an secon-tier factories or more specific tass

such as stone !ashing for :eans. ,hey can "e locate any!here from alongsie a factory to in

the "asement of a home4 an fa"rication units are nearly al!ays unregistere.

t this point the main structure of the garment is complete4 "ut the prouction process is far

from over4 an "ecomes speciali5e epening on the nature of the garment. ,he ecorative

elements that characteri5e laies> !ear an mae the /CR the most profita"le garment

manufacturing center in %nia are ae next. Em"roiery an other forms of ecoration4

!hich may account for up to *0 percent of the cost of any given garment4*1 are ivie into

several istinct styles& aa !or4 intricate se!ing performe on a loom; 5aro5i !or4 gol

or silver metallic threa!or; an moti !or4 or "eaing.

%n 20014 the most recent year for !hich figures are availa"le4 the /ational Chil 'a"or@ro:ect reporte that approximately #24000 chil la"orers !ore across all sectors in


27/41

an that approximately 1411$4*00 an 1492$499$ respectively !ore in ihar an Dttar

@raesh4 the t!o most common states of origin for migrant !orers in the /CR region.$*

Dsing government statistics4 it is not possi"le to extrapolate the num"er of chil la"orers in

the /CR4 !hich inclues portions of Dttar @raesh an other neigh"oring states4 as oppose

to


28/41

the loss of !ages accompanie "y threats of ismissal if !orers refuse to o overtime

"eyon the scope of their contract or of national la!.

#!+"a)ili'3 To E"sla9!!"' O C&il( La)o*+!+s Mi+a'i" F+o T&! I"(ia" S'a'!s O

4!+!la To T&! G*l Co*"'+i!s O T&! Mi((l!/Eas'

?orce 'a"our is prevalent from Gerala4 %nia to the

(ulf Cooperation Council states or (CC States 7!hich

inclues Saui ra"ia4 Gu!ait4 ahrain4 Iatar4 Dnite

ra" Emirates an 6man8 "y&

Categori5ing channels an processes through

!hich !orers are sent into conitions of force

la"or;

Exploring an ientifying linages "et!een

force la"or an la"or "roerageYrecruitingagencies;

apping the types of la"or "roerageYrecruiting agencies; an

ientifying the root causes an riss of force la"or ue to the presence of la"or

"roers. ,he role of "roers in the recruitment an hiring process heightens

vulnera"ility to force la"or in several clear !ays& excessive recruitment fees leaing

to e"t "onage; eception a"out :o" salary an :o" type resulting in having to !or

longer an harer an H "ecause of e"t.

I"(ia" c&il( la)o*+ i+a'io"/1/200

28


29/41

So*+c!/ Fo*"(!( i" 125 '&! Associa'io" o+ S'i*la'i" 4"o;/Ho; -AS4 is o"! o

'&! !; "o"/p+oi' o+a"i?a'io"s i" I"(ia

C&il( La)o+ a"( '&! Ga+!"' I"(*s'+3 i" Ba"la(!s&.

ccoring to the anglaesh ureau of Statistics 'a"or ?orce Survey 7199084 there are *.$

million 10 to 1# year ol chilren !oring in anglaesh. nother estimate puts the num"er

at 1* million. /early all the chil la"or in export inustries is foun in the garment inustry.

,he garment inustry4 incluing those enterprises proucing accessories for finishe

garments4 is !ithout ou"t the most significant inustry in anglaesh !hich utili5es chil

la"or an exports to the Dnite States. %t is also a relatively young inustry4 esta"lishe in

19$$ an evelope rapily after 19)3. %n 19934 anglaesh exporte nearly W$*0 million in

apparel to the Dnite States. ,he garment inustryKs main proucts inclue shirts4 trousers4

:acets4 ,- shirts4 shorts4 an "riefs. (arment !orers mae sports caps an s!eat suits for

export to the Dnite States.

Estimates vary on the total num"er of factories an !orers in the garment inustry. 6ne

estimate puts the figures at 14*00 factories an over $004000 !orers4 of !hom $* to 90

percent are !omen. Representatives of the garment factories locate in an aroun


30/41

exist in the garment inustry. Some estimates suggest that the num"er of chil garment

!orers may "e near **4000.

une 199# report of the %nternational Confeeration of ?ree ,rae Dnions lists the

percentage as ranging from 20 to #0 percent. Recent o"servations mae uring site visits "y

D.S.


31/41

P+o+as a"( Eo+'s 'o A((+!ss C&il( La)o+ Ba"la(!s& P!+sp!c'i9!

%n the past year or t!o4 there has "een significant action taen "y the (overnment of

anglaesh4 the (E4 international organi5ations4 an /(6s to create solutions an

alternatives for chil !orers. %n its !ritten testimony to the D.S.


32/41

Chil 'a"or @ro:ect to eliminate chil la"or in the 24*00 mem"er factories4 an to provie an

alternative to former chil la"orers in the form of an eucation program. %n 199*4 the

(E4 %'64 an D/%CE? entere into a emoranum of Dnerstaning 7oD8 to serve

as a "asis for the implementation of the Chil 'a"or @ro:ect.

,he first component of the Chil 'a"or @ro:ect !as the provision of three years of informal

eucation for former chil !orers !ith the goal of mainstreaming them into the formal

anglaeshi eucational system. ,hrough the course of the pro:ect4 D/%CE? an t!o non-

governmental organi5ations create 3*3 schools for this in !hich over 94$#0 chilren ha

enrolle "efore ay 199).

,he secon part of the pro:ect4 the monitoring an verification system4 !as esta"lishe to

gain an unerstaning of the extent to !hich chil la"or !as use in anglaeshi garment

factories an to monitor progress to!ar the elimination of the practice. ,he %'6 traine

inspectors to avise factory o!ners an managers a"out the "enefits of the @ro:ect an the

nee to en chil la"or.

,he success of the Chil 'a"or @ro:ect in anglaesh has le to the implementation of

moifie versions of this pro:ect "y the %'6 in @aistan4 East sia4 frica4 an Central

merica. Similar to the (E version4 the ne! applications of the pro:ect all com"ine

social protection programs for former chil !orers an their families !hich are

implemente "y local /(6s !ith a monitoring system run "y the %'6. ,he ne! pro:ects

focus specifically on the coffee an commercial agricultural inustries. ,he lessons learne

"y the organi5ations involve in the anglaeshi pro:ect have le to the elimination of the

monthly stipen payment for ex-chil !orers "ecause of the cost involve an the relate

lac of sustaina"ility of that component of the pro:ect.

,he Chil 'a"or @ro:ect in anglaesh face a couple of challenges in its implementation.

?irst4 once chilren reach age 1#4 they can legally !or an so4 to encourage them to stay in

school there !as a nee to continue proviing a stipen. ,his increase the costs of the

pro:ect Auestions arose a"out the sustaina"ility of such an approach. nother important

consieration in implementing this type of pro:ect is the importance of the role playe "y

employers in this process.

C&il( A"( *9!"il! La)o+/ #a+io*s Ac's R!la'!( To I"(ia

C&il( La)o+-P+o&i)i'io" A"( R!*la'io"Ac' -1

,he act replace the Employment of Chilren ct 7193)8 !hich lai out ha5arous !or for

chilren in the %nian context an prohi"ite the involvement of chilren uner the age of 1#

in any of these occupations. ,he Chil 'a"or @rohi"ition an Regulation ct 7C'@R8 ae

construction to the list of ha5arous activities for chilren; "anne the employment of

chilren uner 1* years of age; esta"lishe the conitions uner !hich chilren over 1* may

!or; an set out penalties for the violation of any of the a"ove conitions.

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'oopholes in the legislation inclue the exemption of chil la"or !ithin family-"ase !or4

agriculture4 an the informal sector4 uman Rights =atch has note that the clause

ientifying all !or carrie out at government-sponsore schools as non-harmful is also a

serious gap4 as many any carpet !eaving training centers are run uner government auspices.

T&! App+!"'ic! Ac'-11

%t permits parents to enter their chilren age 1# years or oler into employment for learning

purposes. %t provies some protections for them4 incluing the prohi"ition of payment "y

piece-rate4 an also lists certain inustries in !hich they may not !or.233 ,his la! may "e

use to fill loopholes on age or !oring conitions left "y the ?actories or Chil 'a"or cts

or to ientify those cases in !hich chilren are frauulently classifie as apprentices !hen

they are really "one la"orers.

*9!"il! *s'ic!-ca+! a"( p+o'!c'io" o c&il(+!"ac'-2000

,his act amens the uvenile ustice ct of 19). %n contrast to other %nian la!s for thepurposes of this ct a chil is efine as any person uner 1) years of age. ,his act oes not

eal specifically !ith la"or rights or protections; rather it provies for the protection an

reha"ilitation of neglecte chilren an :uveniles an esta"lishes that traffice chilren are

eligi"le for these "enefits. %t also reiterates that either the trafficing or hiring of a traffice

or "one la"orer is punisha"le.

C&il(+!"-Pl!(i" O La)o+Ac'-1

Dner this la!4 any intermeiary4 incluing contractors4 employers or parents4 !ho uses or

promises to provie chil la"or can "e prosecute.23 ,his restriction is lifte for any

agreement not etrimental to the chil or that is of less than t!o !ees in length. =eanesses

in the la! inclue the interpretive efinition of etrimentalF an the lo! fees for violations

7Rs.*0 for parents an Rs.200 for contractors an employers8.

T&! T!a Dis'+ic's Ei+a'io" La)o+ Ac'-12

,he ct prohi"its the migration of chilren for la"or unless accompanie "y their parents or

guarian.

T&! Pla"'a'io"s La)o+ Ac'-11contains restrictions on the employment of chilren to no

more than 2$ hours per !ee4 none of !hich may "e uring night hours. %t also maes

o"ligatory the provision of eucational4 housing4 meical4 an other "enefits.

D!l&i P+ia+3 E(*ca'io" Ac'-10

Section 1# of this ct4 !hich applies to the


34/41

C&il( La)o*+ a"( p+!9!"'io" I"(ia" p!+sp!c'i9!

%nia has not ratifie %'6 Convention /o. 13)4 the inimum ge Convention or Convention

/o. 1)24 the =orst ?orms of Chil 'a"our Convention. ,he Constitution of %nia states that

no chil "elo! the age of 1# years shall "e employe to !or in any factory or mine or

engage in any other ha5arous employment 7rticle 2#8. %n this !ay4 although Convention

/o. 1)2 on the =orst ?orms of Chil 'a"our sets the minimum age for ha5arous !or at 1)

years of age4 the minimum age for ha5arous !or in %nia is 1# years ol. Constitutional

rticle #* stipulates that the State shall eneavour to provie free an compulsory eucation

for all chilren up to the 1#th year of age. o!ever4 the Constitutional provision !as never

implemente an school enrolment rates remain lo!.

Chil la"our is a matter on !hich "oth the central an state governments can legislate.

num"er of legislative initiatives have "een unertaen at "oth levels. 6ne of them is the Chil'a"our 7@rohi"ition an Regulation8 ct of 19)4 !hich prohi"its the employment of

chilren "elo! the age of 1# years in 13 occupations an *$ processes ha5arous to

chilren>s lives an health. nother is the ?actories ct of 19#)4 !hich prohi"its the

employment of chilren "elo! the age of 1# years in factories. n aolescent age "et!een

1* an 1) years can "e employe in a factory only after o"taining a certificate of fitness from

an authorise meical octor. ,he ct also prescri"es a maximum of four an a half hours of

!or per ay for chilren age "et!een 1# an 1) years an prohi"its !or uring night

hours. nother la! "ans omestic !or an restaurant an hotel !or "y chilren younger

than 1#.

(overnmental sources sho! that there are 1.# million !oring chilren "et!een * an 1#

years ol. o!ever4 /(6 estimations consier the num"er to "e "et!een ** an )$ million.

ost of the chilren !or in agriculture an perform informal economic activities4 such as

omestic servitue. Chilren can "e foun in a !ie variety of inustries4 sometimes

unertaing ha5arous tass4 incluing in mining an Auarrying4 textiles4 leather an garment

factories4 fire!ors factories an many others. @articular pro"lems are notice in carpet

prouction4 see prouction4 textiles4 circuses4 "ric ilns an mills4 among others. any

chilren !or in agriculture. 2009 :oint D/%CE?-%GE initiative ientifie 2004000

chilren "elo! the age of 1# !oring in the cotton plantation inustry in nhra @raeshproucing hy"ri cottonsees.

34


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,he la! oes not sufficiently protect chilren from forms of la"our that are illegal uner the

core %'6 Conventions. ,he la!s are not !ell enforce an chil la"our4 incluing its !orst

forms4 is prevalent.

?orce 'a"our %nia ratifie %'6 Convention /o. 294 the ?orce 'a"our Convention in 19*#4an Convention /o. 10*4 the "olition of ?orce 'a"our Convention4 in 2000. rticle 23 of

the Constitution prohi"its trafficing in human "eings an force la"our. ,hese crimes are

prosecute uner various provisions "oth in the %nian @enal Coe an in the %mmoral ,raffic

7@revention8 ct of 19*. ,he one 'a"our System 7"olition8 ct of 19$ prescri"es

three years imprisonment for forcing !orers into la"our4

!hich is consiere an insufficient penalty for eterring the crime. ,he la! esta"lishes

vigilance an monitoring committees at state level to assist the courts in ensuring the proper

enforcement of the la!. ,he inistry of ome ffairs implements a Comprehensive

Scheme for Strengthening 'a! Enforcement Response in %niaF aime at improving overall

la! enforcement incluing 11 on cases of trafficing an "one la"our. Dner the la! )$

ne! nti-,rafficing Dnits !ere esta"lishe.

?orce la"our an trafficing in human "eings are prohi"ite "y la!. o!ever4 force la"our

is a pro"lem in agriculture4 mining4 commercial sexual exploitation4 an other sectors.

6verall la! enforcement is poor an :uicial capacities are not effective in aressing the

pro"lem.

S*!s'i9! M!as*+!s

1. +arious la!s shoul "e amene so that pu"lic sector !orers fully en:oy the rights to

organise4 collective "argaining an strie against the !ar against chil la"ourers.

2. legal o"ligation for employers of the private sector to recognise registere trae unions

an to engage in collective "argaining shoul "e esta"lishe. ,he la! shoul explicitly

prohi"it employers from esta"lishing an recognising company unions or L!orers>

committees> aime at avoiing representational unions. Employers !ho have esta"lishe such

Lunions> shoul "e prosecute. Such unions shoul !or against chil la"our.

3. ,he government shoul a"olish the excessive reAuirement of 100 !orers for forming a

union in orer to comply !ith international la"our legislation.

#. ,he ,rae Dnions ct shoul "e mae applica"le in Siim.

*. feeral essential services list shoul "e set an inclue only those services the

interruption of !hich !oul enanger the life4 personal safety or health of the !hole or part

of the populationF4 as provie for uner the %'6 efinition.

. @enalties for unertaing inustrial action4 incluing stries4 shoul "e a"olishe !herethey violate the relevant international la"our conventions.

35


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$. ,he police shoul respect the right to peaceful assem"ly an la"our activists shoul

not "e arreste for pursuing legitimate activities.

). ,he excessive #*-ay strie notice perio reAuire in E@s shoul "e remove. ,he /e!s scope shoul "e extene to cover family farms or family

"usinesses.

1. ,he government must ensure implementation of Constitutional rticle #* !hich stipulates

that the State shall eneavour to provie free an compulsory eucation for all chilren up to

the 1#th year of age.

1$. n anti-trafficing la! prohi"iting all forms of human trafficing shoul "e enacte. ,he

government shoul aopt clear official proceures for recognising trafficing victims an

increase the effectiveness of its anti-trafficing an force la"our mechanisms an la!

36


37/41

enforcement. %t shoul increase the funs for trafficing an force la"our victims an

provie assistance of "etter Auality.

1). ,here must "e 5ero tolerance of traitional forms of slavery; the state nees to tae action

to raise a!areness an enforce the la! on force la"our in areas !here the pro"lem persists.Sentences uner the one 'a"our System 7"olition8 ct nee to "ecome much stricter.

19. @enal Coe articles that impose penalties incluing the o"ligation to !or as

punishment for the expression of political vie!s or vie!s ieologically oppose to the

esta"lishe system nee to "e repeale or amene. ,he provisions of the 6fficial Secrets ct

that prescri"e imprisonment sentences involving compulsory la"our shoul "e amene to

remove such penalty.

20. %n general4 the government shoul "uil up its la! enforcement an :uicial capacities in

orer to monitor an fully enforce la"our la!s4 incluing legislation on violations of trae

union rights4 iscrimination4 chil la"our an force la"our an trafficing. ,he 'a"our

%nspectorate nees to receive aitional funing an its inspectors nee to "e provie !ith

necessary training.

21. ,he =,6 shoul ra! the attention of the %nian authorities to the commitments they

unertoo to o"serve core la"our stanars at the Singapore an


38/41

RECOMMENDATIONS A HOLISTIC APPROACH

Co"s*!+s

@ic your cotton carefully& Refuse to "uy cotton proucts !ithout the certain no!lege an

assurance from the retailer that they have "een prouce !ithout causing environmental

estruction or human rights a"use H specifically chil la"our.Call upon manufacturers an retailers to provie this assurance4 an s!iftly evelop a clear

la"elling system that states the country of origin of the cotton fi"re4 an guarantees that

neither chil nor force la"our is use at any stage of the supply chain.

Choose proucts that have "een inepenently certifie as organic or ?airtrae4 or choose

recycle cotton proucts !herever possi"le.

R!'ail!+sT+a(!+s

Colla"orate !ith manufacturers4 /(6s an local proucers to evelop an effective4

transparent prouct la"elling system that guarantees that force chil la"our has not "een

use at any stage of the supply chain4 an that sho!s the country of origin of the cotton fi"re.

Dnertae an inepenent revie! of cotton suppliers4 an see assurances that the cotton is

prouce in accorance !ith international la"our norms. =hen assurances cannot "e

provie4 alternative suppliers shoul immeiately "e sought.

Engage !ith civil-society groups in :oint efforts to improve !oring conitions an

remuneration on cotton farms.

ctively support an move to!ar organic an fairly trae cotton4 there"y responing to

maret eman !hile stimulating prouction an supply. European Dnion an its em"ers

promulgate a regulation prohi"iting the import into the ED of cotton an cotton-relate

proucts that have "een prouce using chil la"our.

RECOMMENDATIONS GO#ERNMENT PERSPECTI#E

Go9!+"!"'s

?ully implement %'6 Convention an the Elimination of the =orst ?orms of Chil 'a"our;

ahere to the D/ Convention on the Rights of the Chil.

Support inepenent investigations of la"our a"uses. @rovie an ena"ling environment for

inepenent inustry an la"our rights "oies to monitor an report on la"our conitions in

the cotton sector.=or !ithin the frame!or of the =orl ,rae 6rgani5ation 7=,68 to

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introuce conitions on trae that !oul penalise manufacturers an proucers !ho use or

tolerate chil la"our.

Consier incentive-"ase reforms4 such as proviing non-iscriminatory su"siies to farmers

!ho can emonstrate that they o not use chil la"our4 there"y shifting the competitiveavantage to responsi"le proucers. ,he ED @arliamentary Resolution calling for an en to

exploitation an chil la"our in eveloping countries. ,he @arliament shoul consier

eveloping a regulation to mae this ED la!.(uarantee that the %nternational gricultural

@artnership4 "et!een %'64 ?64 Consultative (roup on %nternational gricultural Research

7C(%R8Y%nternational ?oo @olicy Research %nstitute 7%?@R%84 %nternational ?eeration of

gricultural @roucers 7%?@8 an %nternational Dnion of ?oo4 gricultural4 otel4

Restaurant4 Catering an ,o"acco an llie =orers> ssociation 7%D?8 recognises cotton as

a central issue4 an acts to tacle chil la"our in cotton prouction.

%nternational %nvestment ouses4 ans an ?oreign %nvestors

See specific assurances that investment portfolios are not supporting manufacturers or

retailers of cotton proucts that have involve chil la"our at any stage of the supply

chain.Support civil-society efforts to increase transparency in cotton procurement.

%nternational Cotton visory Committee 7%CC8 .%nstigate a process of assessment !here"y

the social an environmental impacts of cotton prouction are evaluate for each mem"er

state4 an finings mae pu"lic to investors an importers.Support the evelopment of a

glo"al la"elling scheme that guarantees that proucts have "een prouce !ithout the use of

chil or force la"our at each stage of the supply chain an prouction process. s a

minimum reAuirement4 !or to ensure that the procurement an sale of cotton fi"re orproucts on the open maret "e accompanie "y the country-specific information

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BIBLIOGRAPH$

?rontline-Sumangali Scheme http&YY!!!.verite.orgYsitesYefaultYfilesYimagesYE'@J20=/,E


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203 (overnment of the Repu"lic of %nia. inistry of 'a"or. Contract 'a"or in %nia4

Session #1 of %'C

\la"our.nic.inYgl!YSession#1of%'C.oc]. Retrieve 6cto"er 2009_.

20# (overnment of the Repu"lic of %nia. inistry of 'a"or. nnual Report 200)-

2009. \http&YYla"our.nic.inYannrepYannrep200).htm]. Retrieve 6cto"er 2009_.

20* (overnment of the Repu"lic of %nia. inistry of 'a"or. %nter-state igrant

=ormen ct4 19$0.

\http&YYla"our.nic.inYgl!Yism!s.html]. Retrieve 6cto"er 2009_.

20 uman Rights =atch. ,he Small ans of Slavery& one Chil 'a"or in %nia.

child labour and the garment industry

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