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Rock Climbing Technique, Performance and Climbing Tips13 valuable rock climbing tips for developing technique and improving climbing performance. The following

tips are seen as the most essential techniques with biggest payoff in rock climbing performance:

Performance Climbing Tip #1 Warm Up and Stretch. Stretching improves circulation and flexibility which

translates to improved climbing technique. Prior to climbing, take a half hour to get your muscles and jointslimbered, and your heart rate elevated a little. This simple step of stretching and warming up makes the

difference between several grades of difficulty, and will help prevent injury. Climbers using good climbing

technique will work many muscle groups, and position their limbs in extreme positions which are not used

during daily life. Stretching and warming up helps the joints, ligaments, muscles move and last a little longer.

Performance Climbing Tip #2 Preview and Read the Route. This is a skill to develop just like any physical

technical climbing move. Advanced climbers are skilled at reading climbing routes, this is one of the most

important of the mental skills for improving climbing technique. Before you climb, visualize the sequences

through the entire route--or as much as you can see from the ground. Anticipate weight, balance, reach, and

each move through the route. Here is the key: find the crux and decide the position you need to be in to

complete it. Work backwards down the route. Make mental notes where your left and right hands and feet are

 positioned. When you climb, start the sequence going into the crux so your hands and feet and body is

 positioned correctly when you reach the crux. This takes some practice. After you complete the route, look at

it again and re-analyze it. Develop a habit of   previewing routes before climbing. The more you do it the better 

you will become.

Performance Climbing Tip #3 Strength of Grip. The key to the right grip is simple: Relax. Over-gripping

will wear out your forearms and when that happens, you are done. The grip is not often thought of as an

attribute of good rock climbing technique, and few climbers give a second thought. However it’s well known

that the grip is first muscle group to go. See forearm exercise for tips on improving your grip. It affects all

types of climbers doing bouldering, top rope, lead, sport, competition, etc… The tendency, especially at

critical crux points, is to unconsciously squeeze the hold a little tighter. The greater the tension, the more the

smoothness and fluidity in your climbing movement will suffer which in turn degrades your climbing

 performance. Your back and shoulders must remain loose and relaxed. Get into the habit of mentally

checking your grip in tough situations. This will help you slow down, re-check the basics, and calm yourself so you can think through the solution to the problem ahead. All that is really required with your grip is

contact with the hold for balance or, in an overhanging situation, to hold your body in place with the least

amount of energy. Remain conscious of your grip and the strength you use to hold yourself in place to make

your movement more fluid and improve your endurance, balance and climbing performance.

Performance Climbing Tip #4 Improve Your Balance. The starting point for developing a good rock 

climbing technique begins with your sense of balance, and how you control your balance on the wall. Your 

feet may be close together, or spread-eagle, or in an even stance. Your center of balance is always centered on

your body mass. Your center of gravity should be centered in a forward-backward as well as a left-right

direction. A good sense of balance is the key to moving smoothly and making difficult climbing moves

appear effortless. The center of mass is approximately the middle of your body, around your belly. By being

conscious of your center of gravity when you make a climbing move, you can anticipate the direction of forceon a hand or foot hold as you make a move, and after you have made the move. A simple exercise to help

improve your center of gravity and climbing technique are to find a 60 degree or greater slab and traverse it a

using only your feet. If necessary use your hands for balance, but do not grip the wall. Traverse back and

forth. This simple exercise will help you develop a sense of balance and give you muscle memory for good

rock climbing technique.

Performance Climbing Tip #5 Keep Your Body Close to the Wall. You should also keep your center of 

gravity balanced in a forward-backward direction. In other words, toward the wall or away from the wall. As

a rule, keep your body close to the wall. Understandably, sometimes leaning back away from the wall is

necessary to see the route. There is no set distance because of the variety of types of moves and hand holds in

climbing. In most cases, the more accurate you need to be with your balance the closer to the wall your body

and face should be.

A good indicator to be aware of is the direction your knees point. In general, in a good climbing technique the

knees do not point directly in towards the wall, and your body posture is rarely erect. The more erect, and the

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more your knees point into the wall the further your center of gravity will be out away from the wall. Some

climbers tend to climb a little more erect to take advantage of their height. Experiment with different stances

and distances so you can adjust and adapt to the conditions.

Performance Climbing Tip #6 Static Climbing Technique. Static movement is making

a move where body position is controlled by muscle movement, rather than by

momentum. How you shift your body weight upwards, downwards, left or right as a

general rule will help you gain control. Move your body when all four points, both feetand both hands, are planted. Good technique in climbing movement is of it in two

 parts:1) move limbs, 2) shift body weight; repeat this sequence. In static climbing this

two step process is more pronounced, but it applies to dynamic climbing too. As you

improve, you will be able to combine the steps into fluid motion. Avoid shifting weight

and moving a limb at the same time. Use your arms for balance and your legs to hold

your body weight. If your feet make a lot of noise when you climb this indicates you

need to improve your static climbing technique. This may be the easiest and best

climbing technique tip for there is: Move your hands keeping your body motionless.

Listen to the sound your feet make when climbing. Make quiet smooth movements staying directly over your 

center of balance. Find your foothold visually don’t stab or slide with your feet until you find a hold, then

make a deliberate and precise foot placement. Developing good foot placement is essential for improving

your climbing technique and balance. Dynamic climbing uses the same principles of balance and movement, but incorporates the “dead point”.

Performance Climbing Tip #7 The Dead Point, Dynamic Climbing Technique. The

dead point technique is useful in many climbing situations, helps you develop a smooth

graceful characteristic. Use momentum to reach a move that is further than can be

reached using a static movement. The movement should be smooth and fluid. In the

repertoire of climbing moves, the easiest to learn is the dead point, yet it is one of the

most useful for improving dynamic climbing ability. The dead point is done by sensing

the top of a parabolic arch while you quickly move weight upward dynamically. The

dead point is the point your body changes directions vertically. At the dead point, your 

hand should be at the top of the arch and at the hold. At this point your upward direction

has stopped and you to get a grip on the hold before your weight begins to settle. The best way to learn the dead point is to set up a series of moves on the bouldering wall.

They should not be out of reach…these are not dynos. Make the series of holds within

reach but which also require extending your body position. Practice over and over,

making your body motion stop just at the point where you grab the hold. For dynamic

climbing develop your upper body muscles, such as shoulders, arms and forearms,

see chin ups.

Performance Climbing Tip #8 Speed of Climbing. Some climbers are slow and deliberate and have a static

technique. Some climbing fast using a dynamic climbing technique. Both types of climbing can be

considered good rock climbing technique. In general, climbing moves that are dynamic and require a lot of 

upper body, grip and arm strength should be done quickly. Get through the moves quickly to save your upper 

 body, and use the momentum to help place your body mass at the dead point. Moves which are primarily

static, with balance centered on body mass, small hand and foot holds should be done slowly, deliberately andcarefully using your legs to support your weight, and arms to hold you in place. Again, this is generally the

case, but there are many variations to this basic technique. It is more important to adapt your style to make

 best use of your abilities.

Performance Climbing Tip #9 Develop Smooth Movement. The control and fluidness of how you move is

one of the primary indicators of good well developed rock climbing technique. Develop smoothness to your 

climbing by simply making a conscious effort to control unneeded movement. Wiggling and resituating

creates “opportunity” to fall, slip off the hold or lose balance. To correct this, simply become conscious of 

your movements and hold still. Think about the movement that is needed to advance, and do only that. Hold

your body still, relaxed and deliberate. There are two types of climbing movement: Static and dynamic.

Performance Climbing Tip #10 Develop the Right Muscles. There is very little value in bulking up muscle

groups that are not needed in climbing, or not needed for the type of climbing you do. For example,

 bouldering requires strength moves, but face climbing requires endurance. Sport climbing and indoor 

climbing combine strength and endurance. The muscles you need to develop varies widely on the type of 

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rock climbing you do, will determine the muscles to emphasize during training. See rock climbing

exercise for developing specific muscles for improving your rock climbing technique.

Performance Climbing Tip #11 Find Rest Spots. Regardless of the speed of climbing, climbers who look for 

and take rests will do better than those who do not. Learning to spot and take advantage of rest spots is a very

important technique in rock climbing. Too many climbers think they can muscle up a wall. Most competition

routes do not separate climbers based power or tricks. They are steady level of difficulty with a crux one

degree grade higher than the route is rated. The reason climbers peel off high routes within their ability levelis they do not managed their rest properly. The key to developing the climbing technique of resting is finding

them in the preview or opportunities as they ascend the route. Pick rest spots from the ground. These may be

an overhang you can get your knee under, or an edge to lean against. You can also use smaller and shift

weight slowly rather than dynamically using the dead point. Learn to spot sequences which are not

technically rest, but are less strenuous than a more direct approach. During the preview try to find a place to

rest every 3 meters, or the height of a panel on an indoor climbing wall. The 3 meter or one panel guide is

also rest technique for bouldering and traversing.

Performance Climbing Tip #12 Taking a Good Fall. No matter how good you are, you will fall. If you don’t

you are not pushing yourself to your limit. Falling is part of climbing and it is a skill to learn just like any

other aspect of good climbing technique. There is a basic fear of falling in humans, which is part of the

underlying thrill of climbing. This fear may be debilitating to people new to climbing but as you get more

experience with falling the more comfortable you will become. This is a mental control skill to develop.

There are some basic techniques you can use to help you get over this fear and help you take a fall safely.

Take a deliberate fall in a safe spot. Tell your belayer you are going to take a practice fall. Have him “take”

and “lock off”, then push off in a controlled way, away from the wall, and let the rope come tight. Then say to

yourself, “that wasn’t so bad”, get back on the wall. Now you have confidence to push yourself to try difficult

moves even if it means falling. That is an important aspect of developing and improving your rock climbing

technique: You need to be able to push yourself to your maximum ability…which means you will fall. Most

falls should be a surprise. Yes, you will feel most of them coming, but the actual moment you pop off the wall

should be a surprise. So, as you climb make sure you are ready for the fall at any time by following these

techniques:

• Make sure the rope is clear of your gear and feet/arms at all times. Don’t let the rope loop on

anything, ever.• Be aware of what’s below you as you climb. A bolt, a big hold, an arête.

• Push out away from the wall at the moment you slip. Control how you fall keeping your feet down.

• Keep your feet out in front of you to catch the wall as the rope comes tight and you swing in.

Performance Climbing Tip #13 Watch and Learn. The best way to learn and improve rock climbing

technique is observe the technique used by good climbers, and practice to develop these techniques yourself.

Make mental notes as you observe climbers. Practice the moves you see while reinforcing the basic

fundamentals of good rock climbing technique described here. Often a new climbing technique may feel

awkward and more difficult. But take to heart the basics of good rock climbing technique, and practice them.

Soon as you develop muscle memory for your new technique you will find you are pushing your abilities up

to a new level.

Summary of Rock Climbing Technique, Performance and Climbing Tips

Understand the basic principals of good rock climbing technique. To improve your own climbing

 performance learn and practice good climbing technique. These 13 rock climbing tips will help you

accelerate your climbing performance.

1. Always Warm Up and Stretch before you start climbing. Tight muscles and ligaments don’t perform

as well.

2. Get in the habit of previewing and learning to read the route before you climb it. Developing this skill

will help you get in the right position to make moves at the crux.

3. Use only the degree of strength on you grip as necessary to steady your balance. Your grip is often

the first to go, save forearm strength as much as possible.4. A finely developed sense of balance will help you make difficult static and dynamic moves.

5. By keeping your body close to the wall you keep your center of balance over your center of mass and

relieve pressure on your grip.

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6. Use your legs to hold your weight, not your arms. Your legs are much stronger and will carry you

further.

7. Use arms for balance and shifting weight, not holding weight. When doing moves and sequences that

require a great deal of upper body strength, move quickly through the sequence.

8. Developing the technique of dynamic movement is done by using momentum to peak at the dead

 point, which is the point at which you grip the hold.

9. Combining both static and dynamic elements of climbing technique will determine your speed of 

climbing. Climbers who have mastered this seem to move smoothly and effortlessly.10.The right rock climbing techniques combined with building the right muscles give a climber a huge

advantage.

11.Muscles will perform longer with short rests. Develop a skill at finding rest opportunities while

climbing to greatly extend your endurance.

12.Push yourself and your ability with difficult routes. This means you will fall. Taking a fall correctly is

one of the most important techniques to learn how to do safely, and will give you confidence to push

yourself to your limit.

13.Finally, watch and learn from other good climbers. Practice good rock climbing technique every time

you climb and your climbing performance will measurably improve.

Mental ControlOften the difference between winning and losing depends on your 

mental control. Getting and keeping your head together can be much

easier if you use some of the tools of sports psychology: 1) Develop

self-confidence; 2) use mental imagery, and; 3) control doubt and

negative thoughts. These techniques help you develop and master 

mental control. Sports psychology is a large field requiring many

years of study. In climbing, especially climbing competitions, routes

are designed at the peak of a climber's ability. This information is not

all-inclusive and is intended to provide a general overview of gaining

mental control to improve your performance and spark your further 

 personal study.

Develop Self-confidence to Enhance Mental Control.

A climber's self-confidence is probably the greatest asset in developing your mental control over your body's

reaction to stress. Self-confidence doesn't happen by simply deciding to be confident - it takes a deliberate

and planned effort. Self-confidence is not a matter of "fooling" yourself into believing something false. Just

the opposite - it is based on accurately knowing yourself. Self-confidence allows you to take appropriate risks

and climb at the top of your ability.

The most effective way to build self-confidence is by setting performance-based goals. Set attainable and

measurable performance goals and make sure you achieve them. Then set new goals and achieve them.

Through this process you learn your own abilities. By knowing your own capabilities you avoid surprisefailure and develop confidence in yourself. Believing in yourself helps you develop mental control.

Your goals to attain mental control should be measured in terms of performance, not achievement. An

example of an achievement goal is: "win the competition". This is not a good performance based goal.

Examples of performance based goals are: "Increase pull-ups by 1 per week"; or, "increase endurance training

 by 1 minute per session"; or "increase dead-hang time by 10 seconds per week", etc. There are many aspects

to achieving mental control to improve your climbing performance. Develop as many performance based

goals as you can manage. Design your goals to be achievable within about a week or two weeks time. This

will give you a sense of accomplishment, confidence, and help you develop a keen sense of your own

abilities.

Mental Imagery (described below) is also useful for building self-confidence and control. This is useful if 

your lack of self-confidence or other "mind game" factors are interfering with your ability to achieve a goal.However, a note of caution. It is possible to use imagery to improperly build a level of over-confidence.

Using imagery without rationally considering your actual abilities can lead to over-confidence and

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unexpected failure, which will cause a loss of confidence. Over-confidence is just as bad as a lack of 

confidence - maybe worse. Over confidence does not lead to mental control, it is a misreading of your own

ability. If you are over-confident you will not give the climb 100% effort and may lead you to attempt

something that you are not capable of doing. It can lead to an unexpected failure, which can destroy your 

self-confidence.

Self-confidence should come from a realistic understanding of your abilities based on incrementally

achieving performance-based goals.

Mental Control using Imagery and Positive Thinking.

Using imagery, you imagine smooth controlled climbing, proper rests, shaking, clipping, breathing, good

technique, etc… all the way to the top. Imagery can and should be used during previews, before a difficult

move, at night in bed, waiting in a line at the store, on a bus or passenger in a car (but not as driver). Think 

and imagine yourself climbing and moving like a climber you admire - or visualize yourself making a

 particular move. Visualize the feeling, momentum, and balance. Visualize only correct climbing technique

and form. Gain mental control of yourself and the climbing route by focusing and creating positive mental

imagery.

Visualizing reinforces climbing movement in your mind - so use it to reinforce good movement. Visualizing

is training for your mind. Do do not dwell on bad moves. Analyze what went wrong then visualize the correct

movement from the beginning of the sequence through the end of the section. Imagine the feeling of the

holds/rock, your momentum, your breathing, where you chalk up - be as vivid with your imagery as you can.

It is a skill that needs to be developed just like physical skill.

Imagery can also be used to help you relax and lower your stress level. This can be helpful in competitions or 

in many other situations in climbing. Imagine a peaceful, relaxing, happy or fun place. Make it as vivid as

 possible by visualizing every detail, the warm sun, feeling of joy, smells… every detail that goes with your 

"happy place". Use this imagery technique to reduce stress and maintain mental control.

Imagery can be used to push your limits, for specific moves, for general technique, to break through a mental

 block, to reduce stress, or to build up your self-confidence. Be aware that imagery can be used to an

unhealthy extreme. Use imagery and positive thinking within realistic boundaries to push yourself to new

heights and break through barriers. This is an effective tool when used correctly.

Mental Control over Doubt and Negative Thoughts.

In the same way positive imagery "teaches" your mind through a visualized reinforcement, negative thoughts

also teach your mind - the wrong thing. Get control of your mental thoughts. Make a conscious point not to

allow negative thoughts to dominate. Answer negative thoughts with positive thoughts.

Sometimes negative thoughts are difficult to get out of your head. I may help to physically speak the positive

out loud several times. If you are in a crowd or around other people do it sub-vocally. It is a stronger 

reinforcement when spoken. Respond to negative thoughts with positive thoughts based on clear and rational

assessments of your known ability.

Become aware of your thoughts. Normally thoughts will come and go and you will hardly notice. Watch for 

feelings of inadequacy, criticism, feelings of stress, worry. Awareness is the first step to gaining more mental

control. As you become more aware of your thoughts you can learn to control them.

But how do you not  think of something? If someone says "do not think of a red balloon", you immediately

visualize a red balloon whether you want to or not.  Not  thinking of something is more difficult than thinking

about something. When you get a thought that is counter productive, make a conscious effort to visualize it's

opposite. Speak the opposite if possible, or at least speak it sub-vocally. For example: "red balloon": now

think of a green balloon and say "green balloon" out loud. It is now green. Use this technique to conquer 

doubt, negative thoughts and reinforce your good technique, confidence, and positive self-image. You are

what you think, so think what you want yourself to be.

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Summary of Mental Control.

These are simple tools you can use to help break through mental barriers, maintain mental control under 

stressful situations and build new self-confidence. It may well take you to a new level of climbing. Top

athletes, coaches and trainers in every sport agree the proper application of sports psychology provides a

significant boost in performance level. Self-confidence will help you climb at your best. Using mental

imagery and controlling doubt will help you press through mental barriers. Developing these simple

techniques are as important as your physical training.

Forearm Exercise -- The Rock Climber's Forearm WorkoutAll athletes--not just rock climbers--who play a sport that demands forearm strength and use of the upper 

 body can benefit from doing forearm workouts. Muscles need to break down in order to improve in order to

get stronger. Anytime you exercise for strength you need to make forearms sore. Don't climb or workout with

sore forearms. Wait until your muscle soreness has gone away before working on strength again.

Forearm Workout. Three key routines define the rock climber’s forearm workout. As a climber, you need

strength and endurance in your grip as well as strengthening individual fingers, especially the thumb. Several

forearm exercises below combine to make a very productive forearm workout. This is the key to getting your climbing ability to the next level. Think about it, the first thing to go is your grip. Your grip strength comes

from the muscles in the forearm working together as a unit. Workout the forearm muscles in a specific

deliberate program and you will see a big improvement in performance. The workout targets forearm

strength, endurance, and individual finger strengthening exercises.

Forearm Strength. Static hangs on a bar is the best way to improve the strength of your forearms. Hang until

your muscles absolutely fail - Note: I didn't say "hang until you can't stand it". When your muscles fail, you

literally peel off the bar through lack of ability to hold a second longer without giving up. You must give it

your most intense effort to hang on. Once you "peel" off the bar, shake out for 5 minutes. Then get back on

and do it 3 more times. Do at least four sets. This will quickly improve your forearm strength. Since you are

working until failure, it will also improve your endurance. You can use the same principle on overhanging

 bouldering caves (not to high though since you must go to failure). See Chin Ups.Another good way to improve forearm strength is using a

dumbbell. All repetitions should be high enough that you can

 just do 8 - 10. If you can easily do 10 reps you need to add

weight. If you can not do 8 reps you need to decrease the

weight. This training will workout the forearms to improve

strength. Repeat the workouts for 8 - 10 repetitions. Do 3

sets.

Forearm curls. Do this strength exercise from a seated

 position. Sit on a bench or chair. Pick up the dumbbell

holding it with a fist. Let the bar roll down to your finger tips

then roll it back up into your palms again. For strength/endurance, do this for time not repetitions. Start out

with 1 minute and work yourself up to 5 minutes or more.

Climbing sport routes and indoor climbing routes take 5 to 10 minutes.

Forearm Endurance. Continuous low stress repetitive gripping improves endurance.

Another version of above forearm strength exercise targets endurance a little more than

you get with the static hang: While hanging, drop one arm and shake out your forearm

 for 5 seconds, then trade arms. Reach back up, grab with both, then drop the other arm

and shake it out. This will add a lot of endurance while improving forearm strength. This

is probably the best forearm exercise for rock climbers. This exercise best simulates the

actual forces and stress on forearms during climbing.

You can also work strength/endurance on forearms by traversing on near vertical wall.Make sure it is vertical vs overhang to decrease the stress. Stay on the wall 20 minutes

straight without a break. Start the 20 minute workout session with a pull up to get blood

Shake out, changehands, shake out--

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into your forearms and bump your heart rate up. You can drop one arm at a time to shake, but the key is still

continuous low-stress gripping for 20 minutes straight.

Finger Strengthening Exercise. Fingers and forearms are related and perform similar functions in climbing.

The difference between working forearms and fingers is with forearm exercises the fingers move together.

Strengthening exercises for individual fingers will work the muscles controlling opposing movements. There

is value in both types of exercises. Thumb strength is important in rock climbing. Thumbs grip sideways to

rock or holds and provide the friction needed to stay on the hold. A forearm exerciser will help strengthenfingers, including the thumb.

Forearm Exerciser. A good, simple forearm exerciser is a latex rubber ring you

squeeze. This helps both forearms and fingers and thumb. For fingers, hold the

forearm exerciser with one edge against the base of the thumb using the 4 fingers on

the opposite edge. Your fingers press the rubber exerciser into the palm of your hand.

For the thumb: press the rubber with the thumb into the tips of the other 4 fingers.

The exerciser is very good for both strength and endurance of forearms and fingers, including the

thumb."

Chin Ups - Chin Up Bar ExercisesChin Ups are excellent training for upper body strength building. To get started, locate a "chin up bar". This

can be a specific bar installed for chin ups or an improvised bar, such as any sturdy overhead bar, including

tree branches, rafters, patio beams, eaves, clothes line bar, etc. Chin ups will greatly improve your 

 performance in any sport that requires upper body strength.

Warm Up and Stretch Before Chin Ups

Take 15 minutes of light to warm up before jumping on to the chin up bar. A good warm up and stretchingsession will reduce the chance of injury. Warm up takes 5; stretching takes 10 minutes. See muscle stretching.

Chin Ups and Chin Up Bar Training.

When you first start chin up exercises you may not be able to do it. Don't worry about it. Get a chair and

assist your chin ups with your legs. Very soon you will be able to do a chin up by yourself. Each time you

work out do as many as possible. For upper body conditioning, the chin up bar produces exceptional results,

is inexpensive, easy to install. There are several excellent upper body exercises that can be done on the chin

up bar. Chin ups are an excellent way to improve upper body strength.

Slow Chin Ups for Endurance

Improve endurance by slowing the speed of the chin up. If you do not meet your goal, don't come down -

hang there, drop one arm and shake, then the other arm. Shake a few times, then do another slow chin up.

Endurance training takes willpower. It is hard to force yourself to keep going. Climbers who have good

endurance have paid for it through training. Do chin ups in sets of four. Come down in between sets. Allow

your heart rate to recover to 40% of maximum before the next set. Another approach is to do one slow chin

up, then hang for 5 seconds (about 2 deep breaths). Drop the right arm and shake, then the left and shake,

then do another slow chin up. Continue the pattern. Establish a smooth rhythm. Do sets of four.

Chin ups for Strength

Do until muscle failure--in other words do as many as absolutely possible. Do this in four sets. Chart your 

 progress. After you work up to about 12 standard chin ups, phase over to endurance. When you work up toabout 15 chin ups increase resistance two ways: 1) add small (5 to 10 lbs) ankle or waist weights, or 2) try

one arm assisted chin ups. See the picture and description for one arm chin ups above.

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Chin Ups. For upper body,

shoulder, forearms. Grasp the

 bar palms and fingers

forward, away from the body.

This is called the "pronated"

grip. Keep arms straight and hang straight down

without swinging. Relax your shoulders and body. Pull up in a smooth motion, do not jerk.

The chin should go over the bar. Lower smoothly

 back to the starting position.

Chin Up Bar Static

Hang. Using the chin up bar,

hang with one arm as long as

 possible. Before you "peel" off,

trade arms and shake out while

hanging from the other arm.

When you first start this exercise,you will probably only be able to

hang 45 seconds. Work your 

stamina and strength up to the

 point where you can hang for 4

minutes (or more). Set your personal goal and

work toward it faithfully.

One Arm Chin Ups. For strength

training. To "work into" a one arm

chin up, start by grabbing the wrist

with your other arm and assist. This

variation of the chin up exercise

 provides more resistance for strength building.

Another way to provide additional resistance is

to add 5 or 10 pound ankle or waist belt weights.

Chin Up Bar Side

Crunch. For abdomen and

torso "static" strength. While

hanging from the chin up bar,

lift both legs to the side and

hold the position for 5

seconds. Repeat to the other side for 5 seconds.

Chin up Lockoffs

This technique improves strength-endurance. To perform a lockoff, alternate sets with arms spread apart, then

close together. Slowly go up, count five breaths (15 seconds) at the top, then slowly come down. Get off the

wall or bar and shake out. Let your heart rate come down a little, then do it again. Do four sets.

Chin Ups - Chin Up Bar Summary

Training your upper body and forearms is probably the single best exercise training you can do to improve

climbing ability. Chin up bars or an alternate bar can be easily found. By doing several types of chin ups as

 part of your climbing training plan, you will greatly improve your climbing ability through enhanced upper 

 body strength.