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    Weekend designer

    it aint rocket science.May 7, 2009

    CLOCHE HAT

    Posted by Don under accessory design | Tags: accessory design, fashion, millinery, paerndrafting, sewing |[34] Comments

    Featured: Cloche hat from Banana Republic

    A buckled cloche for Spring. Easy-peasy and pretty!

    You will need:

    Graph paperapprox. 1 yd. of fusible interfacing, 45 wideapprox. 1 yd. of boom-weight or upholstery fashion fabric, 54-60 wideapprox. 1/2 yd. of lining fabric, 45 wideapprox. 3/4 yd. of grosgrain ribbon, 2 wide1 belt buckle, 1 widecoordinating thread

    DIMENSIONS

    This hat draft is a medium size for a head circumference of approximately 23 [58.5cm].

    PATTERN

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    Grid: 1 square = 1 inch [25 mm]

    Add inch seam allowances to all paern pieces.

    Trace out and cut paern shapes on fold of graph paper.

    CUTTING

    Cut the crown side 2X; lining 2X ; interfacing 2X

    Cut the crown top 1X; lining 1X; interfacing 1X

    Cut the brim 2X; interfacing 1X

    Cut the belt strap 2X; interfacing 1X

    Cut the sweatband (grosgrain ribbon) 24 long X 2 wide.

    ASSEMBLY

    1. Iron fusible interfacing to wrong side of each crown piece and to one of each of the brim and strap pairs, followingmanufacturers directions.2. On each brim piece, pin and baste CB seam with right side together. Stitch seam using a seam allowance and press open.3. Layer the 2 brim pieces with right sides facing together and align the CB seams. Pin/baste outer edges together. Sew around theperimeter of the brim.

    4. Grade and trim the seam allowance and turn brim right side out. Press outer edge flat.TIP: Due to fabric thickness, it is important to grade the seam allowances as you sew. The bulk will reduce the headfiing measurement.You may also take less of the seam allowance to account for the bulk.

    5. Topstitch outer edge of brim. (I use the width of the presser foot as a spacer.) The more stitching you put, the stiffer the brim. Setaside.6. Layer the belt strap pieces with right sides facing together. Align and match up raw edges and pin/baste together. Machine-stitch across one short end and along the 2 long edges. Grade and trim seam allowances and turn strap right side out. Press outeredges flat. Topstitch around perimeter of the strap. Set aside.7. Pin/baste the side pieces to the top section, with right sides facing together. Ease the straight edges into the curved ones.Machine-stitch the 2 side seams of the crown portion. Press the seam open. (You may need to clip the seam allowance to get it to lieflat.) Turn the crown right side out.8. Repeat the same method for the hat lining. Insert the lining into the hat crown with wrong sides facing together. Baste lining tocrown around the circumference of the crown.

    9. Align the CF and CB and the Xs of the crown and the brim. Match up these points, pin and basting with right sides together.Machine stitch the crown section to the brim, using a seam allowance.10. Sew in grosgrain ribbon as a sweatband. This should equal the head fiing measurement. Lay the ribbon on top of the seamallowance along the top of the brim and edge stitch along the ribbon edge. Overlap at CB. Grade and trim the seam allowance .Turn the ribbon up into the crown to conceal the raw edge of the seam allowance and tack to CB of hat with hand stitching.11. On the left side of the hat exterior above the seamline of the brim, handstitch the open end of the belt strap to the center of thecrown side piece using a narrow seam allowance. (Do this with the belt strap pointing to the front of the hat.) Fold the strap back ontoitself and slip on the buckle. Wrap the strap around the hats crown and slip loose end into the buckle. (Add punched eyelets if youare using a pronged belt buckle).

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    Bare Egil har mistet noe!

    34 Responses to CLOCHE HAT

    Missy Says:

    May 7, 2009 at 9:30 pmWhoa.

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    hillary Says:

    May 7, 2009 at 10:07 pmI like your tutorial but I would like to see a picture of the finished product. That photo is from Banana Republic.

    wkdesigner Says:

    May 8, 2009 at 1:34 pmThanks for the source, Hilary. Ill add it to the post.

    Erin Says:

    May 20, 2009 at 11:30 amIt would be helpful to see the result of your paern. The image seems like a hat shaped from a single piece of felt, asopposed to several pieces of upholstery fabric sewn together as you suggest. It would be interesting to see how youvetranslated the style.

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    wkdesigner Says:

    May 20, 2009 at 2:55 pmThx Erin but I like to keep the paerndrafting as simple as possible for home sewers.

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    meg Says:

    May 7, 2009 at 11:09 pm

    What a gorgeous hat, looks so chic!

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    Palma Says:4.

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    May 7, 2009 at 11:42 pmOhh, I love this one!!!

    nehmah Says:

    May 8, 2009 at 1:43 amThis is a real Try-for-the-Fun-of-It design. I have an old VinMax puffer iron, so should even be able to shape the crown. Thankyou and Im very happy you are back here. Cordially, Nehmah

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    Sonja Says:

    May 8, 2009 at 6:46 amThis is soooo cool, i checked your site everyday, sorry to be so addictive to it, but it is always a pleasure to have a peek at it,going to try this hat for sure!! have a good day! Sonja

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    eleonor Says:

    May 8, 2009 at 2:48 pm

    your pa

    ern looks great! thanks so much for it. I hope, I will manage that my hat will look as good as yours.Thanks and best wishes for youeleonor

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    Angelina Says:

    May 8, 2009 at 7:26 pmI cant wait to try this!

    8.

    az barbara Says:

    May 8, 2009 at 7:31 pmDon,

    Thanks for this! I love making hats and am learning to do more paern making so this is a wonderful opportunity to practiceboth! I love your blog!

    9.

    Sun Says:

    May 9, 2009 at 1:50 amOh, I like making up an d sewing.Love your blog so much!

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    Haley Says:

    June 12, 2009 at 8:18 amhey, I just spent 3 hours trying to make this, and I am not trying to be mean at all just le ing you know my results: I followed themeasurements and directions exactly, and my brim ended up being WAAAY too wide (aka hangs down to about my nose) andit was too short as well (it was missing about 3 inches and left the whole CB of the top panel brimlessHave you made this hatbefore? Im wondering what went wrong. I go to fidm and have had paern drafting classes up to my ears, so I expected Iwould do fine. But something went horribly wrong

    wkdesigner Says:

    June 12, 2009 at 12:42 pmHi HaleySorry that you are having problems with the hat construction. I have to admit that the sizing is somewhat limited (it is ameduim) and if your head measurement isnt 22 1/2 inches then you might find it is too big or too small. However, from yourresults I dont doubt that you have done the drafting correctly. I suspect that the problem lies in the variables such as thefabric used and the thickness of it. It is amazing how quickly 4 layers of thin fabric will reduce your measurements.

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    To help you with your particular hat, reducing the brim width will not affect the fit if you find it too large but you must keepthe seam that connects to the crown as is. (if you find the seam allowance is too wide or buckles, clip into it to release thetension) Also as a suggestion, when aaching the brim to the crown, divide each piece into quarters. Pin together at thesepoints; then pin these quarters by distributing any fullness (curved seams dont sew into straight ones very well) to preventrunning out of the brim as you did. Please dont give up, Harley. Id hate to have you give up on your hat after only one try.

    mchats Says:

    June 29, 2009 at 9:21 pmI will have to double check this paern for you Haley. I make hat paerns to measure. Just giv me some time to look at it.

    cheers Sue

    wkdesigner Says:

    July 2, 2009 at 1:12 pmSue tailor makes hats to your headsize and sells her paerns for the hats at Etsy.com, if you would prefer to make the hatyourself. You can find her at McHats.etsy.com

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    Moha Says:

    July 10, 2009 at 5:51 pmJust wondering if you have actually made this yourself, and how it turned out. I would love to see pictures of the end result assome of the other posts have suggested.

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    this post will make sense tomorrow diaper bag princess Says:

    November 29, 2009 at 7:13 pm[...] Cloche hat [...]

    14.

    Catherine Says:

    December 2, 2009 at 2:27 amWhy dont you have a photo of one you made instead of a Banana Republic photo? I would prefer to see yours.

    15.

    Zoe Says:

    March 17, 2010 at 2:41 amI would also like to see the hat that you made and not the photo from Banana Republic. I tried making this hat and the crownwas too high, it did not fit snug around the head. I didnt even bother to finish it.

    16.

    Galimamphigouri Says:

    April 22, 2010 at 5:22 amI discover your website and love it! (I linked it on hp://galimamphigouric.canalblog.com/archives/2010/04/22/17653705.html )

    17.

    Links zum Eintragen | Kostenlose-Schnimuster.de Says:

    May 18, 2010 at 8:33 pm[...] Hut [...]

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    Free Hat Paerns Says:

    July 14, 2010 at 4:42 am[...] Free Hat Paern: Cloche [...]

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    teezy Says:

    August 7, 2010 at 9:31 am

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    It, the cloche, is the first hat paern i have been happy with, the brim was a bit wide but that was easy fixed,I have cut out 6 incoon they turned out well.thanks

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