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#P551 - Ameria’s Pride Fretwork Clock inspired by 18th century Victorian elegance. 28”H x 16”W. Requires a 3 1/2” clock insert.

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Page 1: Clocks Bonus 12 66

#P551 - Ameria’s PrideFretwork Clock inspired by 18th century Victorianelegance. 28”H x 16”W. Requires a 3 1/2” clock insert.

Page 2: Clocks Bonus 12 66

GENERAL SCROLLSAW TIPS & TECHNIQUES The following scrollsaw tips and techniques are intended to get you started and on your way to scrollsaw success.Not only will you find these techniques helpful in completing the this project, you will also find that they can be appliedto many other scrollsaw projects as well.

HARDWOODS VS PLYWOODS Selecting the type of material you will use is very important for the final outcome of your project. This project hasbeen designed so that hardwoods, plywoods, or a combination can be used to create your work of art. Hardwoods have their advantages as well as their disadvantages. They come in a variety of species, colors and grainpatterns, yet they are more time consuming requiring more sanding, are more likely to warp and are more expensiveto use. Plywoods, on the other hand, are less expensive, require less sanding, and come in a variety of standard thicknesses.They also are less likely to develop cracks or warp. We do, however, recommend that you use a top grade plywoodwithout voids, such as the Baltic and Finnish birches.

SANDING For most projects, it is best to sand the work piece prior to applying the paper pattern and cutting the design. Onceyou’ve cut the design, and removed the paper pattern, it may be necessary to lightly sand any glue residue remaining,along with any “fuzz” on the bottom side.

BLADE SELECTION There are many opinions pertaining to which blade to use with which type and thickness of material, as well as,with how intricate the design in the project is. The more timeyou put into scrolling, the more your choice of which blade touse will become personal preference. For the beginningscroller we make the following recommendations to getyou started:

USING THE PATTERNS Downloadable patterns give you the advantage of printing the patterns on your own printer at your own convenience.Be sure to download all of the file and save it to a disk or your harddrive according to your computer software’sinstructions. Once you have printed the number of pattern pieces that you will need to complete your projects, you are readyto apply the pattern to your work pieces. Apply the repositionable spray adhesive as directed in the next section. If your project requires piecing 2 or moresheets of paper together to make the full-size pattern piece, simply follow the instructions below for accurate alignment.

Blade Size Recommended#2/0 or #2

#5 or #7

#7 or #9

Material Thickness1/16” - 1/4”

1/4” - 1/2”

1/2” - 3/4” or thicker

Step 1Using a straightedge and a craft knife, cut on the dashed“Pattern Overlap Lines” to remove the excess paper.

Step 2Next, align the sections and secure together with clear tape.Now, apply the repositionable spray adhesive to the backsideof the paper pattern as instructed in the next section.

Cut onsolid line forFrame only.

Frame & BackStock: 1/8” - 1/4”, cut 1 eachLeft pattern piece.

Cut ondashed linefor Back

Patte

rn o

verl

ap li

ne Cleartape

Craft knife

Ruler

Patternoverlapline

Page 3: Clocks Bonus 12 66

REPOSITIONABLE SPRAY ADHESIVE Using a repositionable spray adhesive is the easiest and quickest way to transfer a pattern to your work piece afterphoto copying it. In a well ventilated area, lightly spray the backside of the paper pattern. Allow it to dry only until tacky- approximately 20 - 30 seconds. Then apply it to the work piece, smoothing any wrinkles if necessary. Two common problems that sometimes occur when using repositionable spray adhesive for the first time is applyingthe right amount onto the back of the pattern. Spraying too little may result in the pattern lifting off of the project beforeyou have finished cutting. If this occurs, clear scotch tape can be used to secure the pattern back into position. On theother hand, spraying too much will make it difficult to remove the pattern, If this occurs, simply use a hand held hair

dryer to heat the glue, which will loosen the pattern allowing it to be easilyremoved.

DRILLING STARTER HOLES When drilling starter holes it is best to drill close to a corner, ratherthan in the middle of the waste areas, as it will take less time for the bladeto reach the pattern line.

STACK CUTTING Stack cutting is fairly simple to do and can save you a lot of time whenyou have 2 or more identical pieces to cut for a project. If you are fairlynew to scrollsawing and stack cutting, we recommend cutting no morethan a total thicknessof 1/2” for bestresults. On projects with

fairly simple shapes to cut out, 2 or 3 layers could be held togetherby double-sided tape, or by using spray glue on paper to sandwichbetween the work pieces. On more intricate projects we suggest using #18 wire nails orbrads slightly longer than the total thickness of the stack you arecutting. Tack the nails into the waste areas you will cut out, alongwith a few around the outside of the project. If the nail has gonethrough the bottom of the work piece, use a hammer to tap it flush,or use coarse sandpaper to sand the points flush with the bottomof the work piece. If you are stack cutting hardwoods, do not tack the nail too closeto the pattern line or it may cause the wood to split. Another option would be to predrill for the nails with a slightlysmaller drill bit so the nail will fit snugly and hold the layers together securely.

SAWING THIN WOODS Occasionally you may find it difficult to control your workpiece when cutting in thin hardwoods or plywoods. Thefollowing suggestions should help to eliminate or reduce this problem.1. If you have a variable speed saw, reduce the speed to 1/2 to 3/4 of high speed.2. If you do not have a variable speed saw, it will help to stack cut 2 or more layers of your material to keep bettercontrol of the workpiece.3. For cutting any thickness of material it is very beneficial to keep at least one hand, if not both, partially touching thetable with your fingers for better control.4. Using a smaller blade with more teeth per inch helps to slow down how fast the blade is cutting. But keep in mindthat if the blade is leaving burn marks you will need to slow the speed down or use a blade with less teeth per inch.

Page 4: Clocks Bonus 12 66

VEINING Veining is a simple technique that will bring a lifelike

appearance to your project. The veins of a leaf or the folds

of clothing will look more realistic when this technique is

incorporated. To vein, simply saw all solid black lines as

indicated on the pattern. Some areas of the pattern you will

be able to vein by sawing inward from the outside edge, while

in other areas you will need to drill a tiny starter hole for the

blade.

AUXILIARY TABLE Most scrollsaws on the market today have an opening in

the table around the blade that is much larger than what you

really need. This often causes small and delicate fretwork to

break off on the downward stroke of the blade. An easy solution

is to add a wooden auxiliary table to the top of the metal table

on your saw.

To make an auxiliary table, choose a piece of 1/4” - 3/8” plywood

similar to the size of your current saw’s table. If you choose, you can

cut this plywood to the same shape as the metal table on your saw, or

any shape or size you prefer. However, we do recommend that you make

the table larger than what you think you will need for the size of the

projects you will make in the future.

Next, set the auxiliary table on top of the metal table. From the

underside of the metal table, use a pencil to mark the location where

the blade will feed through. Then turn the auxiliary table over and drill

a 1/16” - 1/8” diameter hole, or slightly larger than the blade you will

be using.

Finally, apply a couple of strips of double-sided carpet tape to the

metal table on each side of the blade. Then, firmly press the auxiliary

table onto the double-sided carpet tape, making sure that the blade is

centered in the hole.

FINISHING TECHNIQUES If you’ve made your project from hardwood, we recommend dipping your project in a dishpan type of container

that contains a penetrating oil such as Watco, Tung, or others. After dipping, allow the excess oil to drain back into

the pan and then follow the manufacturer’s instructions.

If you have chosen to use plywood, such as Baltic Birch, you can use any of the wide variety of wood stains

available on the market. We do, however, recommend sanding the surface thoroughly, in order for the plywood to

accept the stain more evenly.

As a final finish step, we highly recommend using a clear varathane type spray for a protective coating.

Page 5: Clocks Bonus 12 66

#P551 The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002 • All Rights Reserved www.greatamericanscrollsaw.com • a division of The Berry Basket

GREAT AMERICAN

DOWNLOADABLE PATTERNS TM

3

6

12

9

II

M

J

H

R

Q K

Top Assembly

J

L

#P551 - America’s Pride Fretwork Clock

P

N

O

#P551 - America’s PrideFretwork Clock

Instructions1. Select your material from a varietyof hardwoods or solid core plywood.2. Measure each pattern piece andcut the work pieces to sizeaccordingly. Sand as necessary.3. Make all pattern pieces byadhering the paper patterns to thework pieces with a repositionablespray adhesive. Cut the outer shapesand any interior designs. And drillwhere indicated.4. Remove all paper patterns. Sandwhere needed. The edges can berounded by sanding or using a smallroundover router bit if desired.Assemble by first attaching thesides to the Front and Back. Nextattach the Front and Side Overlays.Then attach the Bottom Floor andthe Spacer.5. Now attach the Window Panelsto the Front Panel, along with theremaining Spacer. Then attach theBack Panel. Lower this assemblyover the Spacer on the BottomFloor and secure in place. Then attach the Top Floor Spacerinto position, and attach the TopFloor to the Front & Back Panelassembly. Now, assemble the TopWindows to the Clock Panel Front.Carefully insert the Side and FrontFence tabs into position, and thenattach the Clock Panel Back. Lowerthis assembly over the Top FloorSpacer and secure in place. Next,attach the Top Roofs and Crest,and the Clock Overlays.

Page 6: Clocks Bonus 12 66

#P551

E R

B

A

C

B

F

G

R

FF

Bottom Assembly

S

D

The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002

Page 7: Clocks Bonus 12 66

Base Front & Back (A)Stock: 1/4”, cut 1 each. Right pattern piece.

Side

(B

)Pattern overlap line

#P551

1 each21212211 each2212122122

Base Front & BackSide

Front OverlaySide OverlayBottom Floor

Front & Back PanelWindow Panel

Top FloorClock Panel Front & Back

Top WindowSide Fence

Front FenceClock Overlay

CrestTop Window Overlay

Top RoofTop Floor Spacer

SpacerBottom Window Overlay

Description Item Qty

ABCDEFGHIJKLMNOPQRS

#P551 - America’s Pride Fretwork Clock

1/4”T x 5”W x 15”L1/4”T x 5”W x 7 1/2”L1/8”T x 3 1/8”W x 15 1/4”L1/8”T x 3 1/8”W x 8”L3/8”T x 8 3/4”W x 16 1/2”L1/4”T x 9 1/2”W x 14 1/2”L1/4”T x 7 1/2”W x 9 1/2”L3/8”T x 6 1/2”W x 14 1/2”L1/4”T x 10 1/2”W x 13”L1/4”T x 5 3/4”W x 7 3/8”L1/8”T x 2”W x 3 1/2”L1/8”T x 2”W x 8 1/4”L1/16” - 1/8”T x 3 3/4”W x 7 1/2”L1/4”T x 9 1/2”W x 15 1/4”L1/16” - 1/8”T x 2”W x 3 3/4”L1/4”T x 4 7/8”W x 7 1/4”L1/4”T x 2 1/2”W x 7”L1/4”T x 3 13/16”W x 7”L1/16” - 1/8”T x 3 5/16”W x 7 1/2”L

Size

The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002

Page 8: Clocks Bonus 12 66

Bas

e F

ron

t &

Bac

k (A

)St

ock:

1/4

”, c

ut 1

eac

h. L

eft p

atte

rn p

iece

.

Smal

l das

hed

lines

indi

cate

plac

emen

t of F

ront

Ove

rlay

(C)

on B

ase

Fron

t onl

y.

Side (B)

Use

glu

e an

d #1

8 x

5/8”

fini

shin

g na

ils.

Pattern overlap line

#P551

The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002

Page 9: Clocks Bonus 12 66

#P551

Sid

e (B

)St

ock:

1/4

”, c

ut 2

Smal

l das

hed

line

indi

cate

spl

acem

ent o

f Si

de O

verl

ay (

D)

The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002

Page 10: Clocks Bonus 12 66

Fro

nt

Ove

rlay

(C

)St

ock:

1/8

”L

eft p

atte

rn p

iece

.

Side (B)

Side Overlay (D)

Pattern overlap line

Fro

nt

Ove

rlay

(C

)St

ock:

1/8

”R

ight

pat

tern

pie

ce.U

se g

lue

and

#18

x 5/

8” f

inis

hing

nai

ls.

Side (B)Side Overlay (D)

Pattern overlap line

#P551The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002

Page 11: Clocks Bonus 12 66

#P551

Sid

e O

verl

ay (

D)

Stoc

k: 1

/8”,

cut

2.

Atta

ch w

ith g

lue.

The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002

Page 12: Clocks Bonus 12 66

Front & Back Panel (F)Stock: 1/4”

Slot forWindow (G).

Front & Back Panel (F)Stock: 1/4”, cut 1 eachLeft pattern piece.

Attach to Spacer (R) with glue and#18 x 5/8” finishing nails.

Attach to Spacer (R) with glue and#18 x 5/8” finishing nails.

Pattern overlap line

#P551

The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002

Page 13: Clocks Bonus 12 66

Note: Door panel can be cutas an overlay with contrastingwoods, or predrill for hingesbefore sawing out door fromPanel (F). Omit cut-out fordoor panel on Back (F)

Front & Back Panel (F)Stock: 1/4”, cut 1 eachRight pattern piece.

Pattern overlap line

#P551The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002

Page 14: Clocks Bonus 12 66

Bot

tom

Win

dow

(G

)

Side

Ove

rlay

(D)

Bottom Floor (E)Stock: 3/8”Cut on solid outside line.Left pattern piece.

Side

(B

)

Attach Spacer (R) herewith glue and finishingnails.

Back

Attach with glue and#18 x 5/8” finishingnails.

Pattern overlap line

#P551The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002

Page 15: Clocks Bonus 12 66

Front Overlay (C)

Front & Back Door Panel (F)

Bot

tom

Win

dow

(G

)

Note: dashed lines indicate placement of Back (A) and Back Panel (F).

Front (A)

Note: Dashed lines for (F) & (G) indicateplacement on top of Floor (E).

Front

Pattern overlap line

Pattern overlap line

#P551

Bottom Floor (E)Stock: 3/8”Cut on solid outside line.Middle pattern piece.

The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002

Page 16: Clocks Bonus 12 66

#P551

Bottom Floor (E)Stock: 3/8”Cut on solid outside line.Right pattern piece.

Bot

tom

Win

dow

(G

)

Side

Ove

rlay

(D)

Side

(B

)

Pattern overlap line

The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002

Page 17: Clocks Bonus 12 66

Window Panel (G)Stock: 1/4”, cut 2

Slot for FrontPanel (F).

Attach to Spacer (R) with glue and#18 x 5/8” finishing nails.

Attach to Spacer (R) with glue and#18 x 5/8” finishing nails.

Small dashed line indicates placement of BottomWindow Overlay (S). Attach with glue or silicone.

#P551The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002

Page 18: Clocks Bonus 12 66

Top

Flo

or

(H)

Stoc

k: 3

/8”,

cut

1L

eft p

atte

rn p

iece

.

Clo

ck P

anel

Bac

k (I

)

Clo

ck P

anel

Fro

n (I

)Top Window (J)

Side Fence (K)

Fron

t Fen

ce (

L)

Fron

t

Atta

ch T

op F

loor

Spac

er (

Q)

here

with

glu

e an

dfi

nish

ing

nails

.

Atta

ch w

ith g

lue

and

#18

x 5/

8” f

inis

hing

nai

ls.

Pattern overlap line

#P551The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002

Page 19: Clocks Bonus 12 66

Top Window (J)

Side Fence (K)

Fron

t

Atta

ch T

op F

loor

Spac

er (

Q)

here

with

glu

e an

dfi

nish

ing

nails

.

Pattern overlap line

#P551

Top

Flo

or

(H)

Stoc

k: 3

/8”,

cut

1R

ight

pat

tern

pie

ce.

Clock Panel Front & Back (I)Stock: 1/4”, cut 1 eachTop pattern piece.Top Roof (P

)

35°

Pattern overlap line

The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002

Page 20: Clocks Bonus 12 66

Clock Panel Front & Back (I)Stock: 1/4”, cut 1 eachBottom left pattern piece.

Slot forWindow (J).

Small dashedlines indicateplacement ofOverlay (M).

Bore a hole in the Front only to insertthe clock of your choice. Be sure ofthe size opening you need as not allclocks require the same size opening.

Cut slot forSide Fence (K).

Pattern overlap line

Pattern overlap line

#P551The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002

Page 21: Clocks Bonus 12 66

Clock Panel Front & Back (I)Stock: 1/4”, cut 1 eachBottom Right Pattern piece.

Pattern overlap line

Pattern overlap line

#P551The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002

Page 22: Clocks Bonus 12 66

#P551

Top Window (J)Stock: 1/4”, cut 2

Slot for Clock PanelFront (I).

Attach to Top Floor Spacer(Q) with glue and #18 x 5/8”finishing nails.

Cut slotfor FrontFence (L)

Small dashed line indicatesplacement of Top WindowOverlay (O). Attach withglue or silicone.

Side Fence (K)Stock: 1/8”, cut 2

The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002

Page 23: Clocks Bonus 12 66

#P551

Clock Overlay (M)Stock: 1/16” - 1/8”, cut 2

Top

Win

do

wO

verl

ay (

O)

Stoc

k: 1

/16”

- 1

/8”,

cut

2

Fro

nt

Fen

ce (

L)

Stoc

k: 1

/8”

The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002

Page 24: Clocks Bonus 12 66

Crest (N)Stock: 1/4”Left pattern piece.

Attach to Roofwith glue and#18 x 5/8”finishing nails.

Patte

rn o

verl

ap li

ne

#P551The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002

Page 25: Clocks Bonus 12 66

Crest (N)Stock: 1/4”Right pattern piece.

Patte

rn o

verl

ap li

ne

#P551 The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002

Page 26: Clocks Bonus 12 66

#P551

Top Roof (P)Stock: 1/4”, cut 2

Attach Roof with glue and #18 x 5/8” finishing nails.

Attach Roof with glue and #18 x 5/8” finishing nails.

Cut at 35° Cut at 35°

Roof Front

Top Floor Spacer (Q)Stock 1/4”Attach to top of Top Floor (H) with glueand finishing nails.

The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002

Page 27: Clocks Bonus 12 66

#P551

Spacer (R)Stock 1/4”Attach to top of Bottom Floor (E) withglue and finishing nails.

Bot

tom

Win

dow

Ove

rlay

(S)

Stoc

k: 1

/16”

- 1

/8”,

cut

2

The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002

Page 28: Clocks Bonus 12 66

#P568- Birmingham Pendulum ClockRequires a pendulum movement kit (#A309 - #A312).37”H x 16”W

Page 29: Clocks Bonus 12 66

GENERAL SCROLLSAW TIPS & TECHNIQUES The following scrollsaw tips and techniques are intended to get you started and on your way to scrollsaw success.Not only will you find these techniques helpful in completing the this project, you will also find that they can be appliedto many other scrollsaw projects as well.

HARDWOODS VS PLYWOODS Selecting the type of material you will use is very important for the final outcome of your project. This project hasbeen designed so that hardwoods, plywoods, or a combination can be used to create your work of art. Hardwoods have their advantages as well as their disadvantages. They come in a variety of species, colors and grainpatterns, yet they are more time consuming requiring more sanding, are more likely to warp and are more expensiveto use. Plywoods, on the other hand, are less expensive, require less sanding, and come in a variety of standard thicknesses.They also are less likely to develop cracks or warp. We do, however, recommend that you use a top grade plywoodwithout voids, such as the Baltic and Finnish birches.

SANDING For most projects, it is best to sand the work piece prior to applying the paper pattern and cutting the design. Onceyou’ve cut the design, and removed the paper pattern, it may be necessary to lightly sand any glue residue remaining,along with any “fuzz” on the bottom side.

BLADE SELECTION There are many opinions pertaining to which blade to use with which type and thickness of material, as well as,with how intricate the design in the project is. The more timeyou put into scrolling, the more your choice of which blade touse will become personal preference. For the beginningscroller we make the following recommendations to getyou started:

USING THE PATTERNS Downloadable patterns give you the advantage of printing the patterns on your own printer at your own convenience.Be sure to download all of the file and save it to a disk or your harddrive according to your computer software’sinstructions. Once you have printed the number of pattern pieces that you will need to complete your projects, you are readyto apply the pattern to your work pieces. Apply the repositionable spray adhesive as directed in the next section. If your project requires piecing 2 or moresheets of paper together to make the full-size pattern piece, simply follow the instructions below for accurate alignment.

Blade Size Recommended#2/0 or #2

#5 or #7

#7 or #9

Material Thickness1/16” - 1/4”

1/4” - 1/2”

1/2” - 3/4” or thicker

Step 1Using a straightedge and a craft knife, cut on the dashed“Pattern Overlap Lines” to remove the excess paper.

Step 2Next, align the sections and secure together with clear tape.Now, apply the repositionable spray adhesive to the backsideof the paper pattern as instructed in the next section.

Cut onsolid line forFrame only.

Frame & BackStock: 1/8” - 1/4”, cut 1 eachLeft pattern piece.

Cut ondashed linefor Back

Patte

rn o

verl

ap li

ne Cleartape

Craft knife

Ruler

Patternoverlapline

Page 30: Clocks Bonus 12 66

REPOSITIONABLE SPRAY ADHESIVE Using a repositionable spray adhesive is the easiest and quickest way to transfer a pattern to your work piece afterphoto copying it. In a well ventilated area, lightly spray the backside of the paper pattern. Allow it to dry only until tacky- approximately 20 - 30 seconds. Then apply it to the work piece, smoothing any wrinkles if necessary. Two common problems that sometimes occur when using repositionable spray adhesive for the first time is applyingthe right amount onto the back of the pattern. Spraying too little may result in the pattern lifting off of the project beforeyou have finished cutting. If this occurs, clear scotch tape can be used to secure the pattern back into position. On theother hand, spraying too much will make it difficult to remove the pattern, If this occurs, simply use a hand held hair

dryer to heat the glue, which will loosen the pattern allowing it to be easilyremoved.

DRILLING STARTER HOLES When drilling starter holes it is best to drill close to a corner, ratherthan in the middle of the waste areas, as it will take less time for the bladeto reach the pattern line.

STACK CUTTING Stack cutting is fairly simple to do and can save you a lot of time whenyou have 2 or more identical pieces to cut for a project. If you are fairlynew to scrollsawing and stack cutting, we recommend cutting no morethan a total thicknessof 1/2” for bestresults. On projects with

fairly simple shapes to cut out, 2 or 3 layers could be held togetherby double-sided tape, or by using spray glue on paper to sandwichbetween the work pieces. On more intricate projects we suggest using #18 wire nails orbrads slightly longer than the total thickness of the stack you arecutting. Tack the nails into the waste areas you will cut out, alongwith a few around the outside of the project. If the nail has gonethrough the bottom of the work piece, use a hammer to tap it flush,or use coarse sandpaper to sand the points flush with the bottomof the work piece. If you are stack cutting hardwoods, do not tack the nail too closeto the pattern line or it may cause the wood to split. Another option would be to predrill for the nails with a slightlysmaller drill bit so the nail will fit snugly and hold the layers together securely.

SAWING THIN WOODS Occasionally you may find it difficult to control your workpiece when cutting in thin hardwoods or plywoods. Thefollowing suggestions should help to eliminate or reduce this problem.1. If you have a variable speed saw, reduce the speed to 1/2 to 3/4 of high speed.2. If you do not have a variable speed saw, it will help to stack cut 2 or more layers of your material to keep bettercontrol of the workpiece.3. For cutting any thickness of material it is very beneficial to keep at least one hand, if not both, partially touching thetable with your fingers for better control.4. Using a smaller blade with more teeth per inch helps to slow down how fast the blade is cutting. But keep in mindthat if the blade is leaving burn marks you will need to slow the speed down or use a blade with less teeth per inch.

Page 31: Clocks Bonus 12 66

VEINING Veining is a simple technique that will bring a lifelike

appearance to your project. The veins of a leaf or the folds

of clothing will look more realistic when this technique is

incorporated. To vein, simply saw all solid black lines as

indicated on the pattern. Some areas of the pattern you will

be able to vein by sawing inward from the outside edge, while

in other areas you will need to drill a tiny starter hole for the

blade.

AUXILIARY TABLE Most scrollsaws on the market today have an opening in

the table around the blade that is much larger than what you

really need. This often causes small and delicate fretwork to

break off on the downward stroke of the blade. An easy solution

is to add a wooden auxiliary table to the top of the metal table

on your saw.

To make an auxiliary table, choose a piece of 1/4” - 3/8” plywood

similar to the size of your current saw’s table. If you choose, you can

cut this plywood to the same shape as the metal table on your saw, or

any shape or size you prefer. However, we do recommend that you make

the table larger than what you think you will need for the size of the

projects you will make in the future.

Next, set the auxiliary table on top of the metal table. From the

underside of the metal table, use a pencil to mark the location where

the blade will feed through. Then turn the auxiliary table over and drill

a 1/16” - 1/8” diameter hole, or slightly larger than the blade you will

be using.

Finally, apply a couple of strips of double-sided carpet tape to the

metal table on each side of the blade. Then, firmly press the auxiliary

table onto the double-sided carpet tape, making sure that the blade is

centered in the hole.

FINISHING TECHNIQUES If you’ve made your project from hardwood, we recommend dipping your project in a dishpan type of container

that contains a penetrating oil such as Watco, Tung, or others. After dipping, allow the excess oil to drain back into

the pan and then follow the manufacturer’s instructions.

If you have chosen to use plywood, such as Baltic Birch, you can use any of the wide variety of wood stains

available on the market. We do, however, recommend sanding the surface thoroughly, in order for the plywood to

accept the stain more evenly.

As a final finish step, we highly recommend using a clear varathane type spray for a protective coating.

Page 32: Clocks Bonus 12 66

#P568 Assembly Instructions1. Select your material from a variety of hardwoodsor solid core plywood.2. Measure each pattern piece and cut the work piecesto size accordingly. Sand as necessary.3. Make all pattern pieces by adhering the paperpatterns to the work pieces with a repositionablespray adhesive. Cut the outer shapes and any interiordesigns. And drill where indicated.4. Remove all paper patterns. Sand where needed.The edges can be rounded by sanding or using asmall roundover router bit if desired.5. Assemble by first attaching the Top Window Panels(C) and Top Floor Spacer (U) to the Clock PanelFront (A). Next, attach the Clock Panel Back (A).Now, glue this assembly into position on the TopFloor (S). Note: screw or finishing nails can also beused if desired. Then attach the Bottom WindowPanels (K) and Bottom Floor Spacers (V) to the FrontPanel (I). Next, attach the Back Panel (I). Now attachthis assembly to the bottom of the Top Floor (S), andthe top of the Bottom Floor (R), securing with glue.Now, attach the Pendulum Bracket (P) and BottomBrackets (BB) into place. Attach the Door Assembly (L), Windows (D &J), Steps (W), Dial Underlays (Q & EE), Door Overlay(FF) and Overlay (DD) into position. Now, attachthe Rail Brackets (O) into place in the Front Panel(I) and Bottom Window Panels (K). Next, glue theBottom Front Brackets (X) to the Front Panel (I),along with the Lower Brackets (T) to the Front andBack Panels (I). Follow the same procedure to attachthe corresponding Brackets (H & CC) to the ClockPanel Front and Back (A). Should the Brackets fittoo tight on the Floors, sand slightly. At this time,attach the Front and Side Rails (Z & AA) to the Topand Bottom Floors (S & R). Then attach the DoorRoof (N) and Door Crest (M) into place securingwith glue. Now, attach the Roof (Y) to the top of theClock Panel ( A) assembly, and the Crest (B) to thefront of the Roof (Y). Next, secure the Deer (F) andTrees (G) into place on the Crest Top (E), and thensecure this assembly to the Crest (B). Finish asdesired. Attach the clock movement. Hang the pendulumrod from the movement and adjust the length bybreaking off sections in 1” increments.

3

6

12

9

FF

F GG

E

B

Y Y

QC EED

U

H

CC

S

AA

ZV

T

J

KR

O

M

L

N

I

Z

AA

V

W

X

P

BB

DD

#P568 - The Birmingham Clock

A

#P568

The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002 • All Rights Reserved www.greatamericanscrollsaw.com • a division of The Berry Basket

GREAT AMERICAN

DOWNLOADABLE PATTERNS TM

Page 33: Clocks Bonus 12 66

#P568

ABCDEFGHIJKLMNOPQRSTUVWXYZAABBCCDDEEFF

1 each12211221 each22112811114121222424111

Clock Panel Front & BackCrest

Top Window PanelTop Window

Crest TopDeerTree

Front BracketFront & Back Panel

Bottom WindowBottom Window Panel

Door AssemblyDoor CrestDoor Roof

Rail BracketPendulum Bracket

Dial UnderlayBottom Floor

Top FloorLower Bracket

Top Floor SpacerBottom Floor Spacer

StepsBottom Front Bracket

RoofFront RailSide Rail

Bottom BracketUpper Bracket

OverlayDial UnderlayDoor Overlay

Description item Qty

#P568 THEBIRMINGHAM CLOCK

Size

1/4”T x 7 1/2”W x 10 7/8”L1/4”T x 7 3/4”W x 14 5/8”L1/4”T x 3 1/2”W x 8 1/8”L1/16 ” - 1/8”T x 2 3/16”W x 5 1/8”L1/4”T x 2 5/8”W x 8 1/8”L1/4”T x 5 3/4”W x 7 1/4”L1/4”T x 3 1/8”W x 5 1/8”L1/4”T x 1 1/2”W x 8”L1/4”T x 8 11/16”W x 10 7/16”L1/16” - 1/8”T x 2 13/16”W x 6 5/8”L1/4”T x 4 1/2”W x 10 1/2”L1/4”T x 7”W x 7 1/8”L1/4”T x 5 1/8”W x 7”L1/4”T x 1”W x 3”L1/8”T x 1 1/4”W x 2 3/8”L1/4”T x 6 7/8”W x 12 3/4”L1/8”T x 6 1/4”W x 6 1/4”L1/4”T x 6”W x 14 1/2”L1/4”T x 6”W x 14 1/2”L1/4”T x 4”W x 10 1/2”L1/4”T x 3 1/2”W x 7”L1/4”T x 4 1/2”W x 8 3/16”L1/4”T x 1”W x 7 7/8”L1/4”T x 1 1/2”W x 10 5/8”L1/4”T x 5 1/2”W x 7 3/8”L1/8”T x 2”W x 16”L1/8”T x 2”W x 6”L1/4”T x 1 3/4”W x 4 1/8”L1/4”T x 3 1/2”W x 7 1/4”L1/16” - 1/8”T x 3 5/8”W x 3 5/8”L1/8”T x 5 1/8”W x 5 1/8”L1/16” - 1/8”T x 3 1/4”W x 3 3/8”L

The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002

Page 34: Clocks Bonus 12 66

Clo

ck P

anel

Fro

nt

&B

ack

(A)

Stoc

k 1/

4”, c

ut 1

eac

h.To

p pa

ttern

pie

ce.

Smal

l das

hed

lines

indi

cate

pla

cem

ent

of U

nder

lay

(Q).

Dri

ll ho

le f

or c

lock

shaf

t.

Top Window Panel (C)

Das

hed

line

indi

cate

spl

acem

ent o

f C

lock

Und

erla

y (E

E).

Top Window Panel (C)

Atta

ch to

Top

Win

dow

Pane

l with

glu

e an

d#1

8 x

5/8”

fin

ishi

ngna

ils.

Das

hed

line

indi

cate

spl

acem

ent o

f D

oor

(FF)

.

Patte

rn o

verl

ap li

ne

#P568The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002

Page 35: Clocks Bonus 12 66

Clo

ck P

anel

Fro

nt

&B

ack

(A)

Stoc

k 1/

4”, c

ut 1

eac

h.B

otto

m p

atte

rn p

iece

.

Dri

ll ho

le f

or c

lock

shaf

t.

Top

Floo

r Sp

acer

(U

)

Das

hed

line

indi

cate

spl

acem

ent o

f C

lock

Und

erla

y (E

E).

Not

e: C

ut a

4”

diam

eter

hol

ein

Bac

k (A

). T

his

will

allo

wyo

u to

cha

nge

the

batte

ry a

ndse

t the

tim

e.

Patte

rn o

verl

ap li

ne

#P568

Top

Win

do

w (

D)

Stoc

k 1/

16”

- 1/

8”, c

ut 2

Cre

st T

op

(E

)St

ock

1/4”

Adj

ust s

lots

, if

nece

ssar

y, f

orth

ickn

ess

of m

ater

ial u

sed.

Tre

eT

ree

Dee

r

Atta

ch to

Cre

st (

B)

with

glu

e or

sili

cone

.

The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002

Page 36: Clocks Bonus 12 66

#P568

Cre

st (

B)

Stoc

k 1/

4”L

eft p

atte

rn p

iece

.

Atta

ch to

Roo

f Fro

nt w

ith g

lue a

nd #

18 x

5/8

” fin

ishin

g na

ils.

Pattern overlap line

The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002

Page 37: Clocks Bonus 12 66

Pattern overlap line

Crest (B)

Stock 1/4”

Right pattern piece.

#P568

Dashed line indicatesplacement of TopWindow.

Top Window Panel (C)Stock 1/4”, cut 2

Top Floor Spacer (U)

The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002

Page 38: Clocks Bonus 12 66

#P568

Tree

(G

)St

ock

1/4”

, cut

2D

eer

(F)

Stoc

k 1/

4”

Front Bracket (H)Stock 1/4”, cut 2

The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002

Page 39: Clocks Bonus 12 66

#P568

Fro

nt

& B

ack

Pan

el (

I)St

ock

1/4”

, cut

1 e

ach.

For

Bac

k cu

t onl

y on

outs

ide

solid

line

. Top

pat

tern

pie

ce.

Bottom Window Panel (K)

Bottom Window Panel (K)

Atta

ch B

otto

m W

indo

wPa

nel (

K) w

ith g

lue

and

#18

x 5/

8” f

inis

hing

nai

ls.

Das

hed

line

indi

cate

spl

acem

ent o

fD

oor A

ssem

bly

(L).

Atta

ch R

ail

Bra

cket

(O

)he

re. C

ut s

lots

inFr

ont P

anel

onl

y.

Cut

Doo

r op

enin

g an

dR

oof

slot

s in

Fro

ntPa

nel (

I) o

nly.

Bot

tom

Flo

or S

pace

r (V

)

Das

hed

lines

indi

cate

plac

emen

t of

Roo

f (N

).

Patte

rn o

verl

ap li

ne

The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002

Page 40: Clocks Bonus 12 66

Fro

nt

& B

ack

Pan

el (

I)St

ock

1/4”

, cut

1 e

ach.

For

Bac

k cu

t onl

y on

outs

ide

solid

line

.B

otto

m p

atte

rn p

iece

.

Atta

ch to

Bot

tom

Flo

orSp

acer

(V

) w

ith g

lue

and

#18

x 5/

8” fi

nish

ing

nails

.

Bot

tom

Flo

or S

pace

r (V

)

Step

(W

) go

es h

ere

Patte

rn o

verl

ap li

ne

#P568

Bottom Window (J)Stock 1/16” - 1/8”, cut 2

The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002

Page 41: Clocks Bonus 12 66

Bottom Window Panel (K)Stock 1/4”, cut 2Top pattern piece.

Dashed line indicatesplacement of BottomWindow.

Bottom Floor Spacer (V)

Bottom Floor Spacer (V)Bottom Floor Spacer (V)

Attach Rail Bracket (O)here.

Pattern overlap line

#P568

Das

hed

line

indi

cate

spl

acem

ent o

f B

otto

mW

indo

w.

Bot

tom

Flo

or S

pace

r (V

)

Patte

rn o

verl

ap li

neB

ott

om

Win

do

w P

anel

(K

)St

ock

1/4”

, cut

2B

otto

m p

atte

rn p

iece

.

The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002

Page 42: Clocks Bonus 12 66

#P568

Do

or R

oo

f (N)

Stock 1/4”

Side view of Door Roof (N)

33°Top

Door Assembly (L)Stock 1/4”

Use knobs ordowels of yourchoice.

Use yourchoice ofhinges.

Please note: it may benecessary to sand theinside edges of the Doorso that it will open andclose more easily.

Rail Bracket (O)Stock 1/8”, cut 8

The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002

Page 43: Clocks Bonus 12 66

Pendulum Bracket (P)Stock 1/4”. Left pattern piece.

Bra

cket

(B

B)

Patte

rn o

verl

ap li

ne

#P568

Door Crest (M)Stock 1/4”

Attach Door Crest to Door Roofwith #18 x 5/8” finishing nails.

The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002

Page 44: Clocks Bonus 12 66

#P568

Pen

du

lum

Bra

cket

(P

)St

ock

1/4”

Rig

ht p

atte

rn p

iece

.

Das

hed

line

indi

cate

spl

acem

ent o

f O

verl

ay (

DD

)

Bracket (BB)

Pattern overlap line

The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002

Page 45: Clocks Bonus 12 66

#P568

Dial Underlay (Q)Stock: 1/8”

Dashed line indicates placementof Clock Overlay (EE).

The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002

Page 46: Clocks Bonus 12 66

Bottom Floor (R)Stock 1/4”Left pattern piece.

Front Panel (I)

Bot

tom

Win

dow

Pan

el (

K)

Bottom Floor Spacer (V)Stock 1/4”, cut 2Left pattern piece.

Cut on solid line for Pendulum.

Back Panel (I)

Step (W)

Side

Rai

l (A

A)

Front Rail (Z)

Patte

rn o

verl

ap li

ne

#P568The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002

Page 47: Clocks Bonus 12 66

Bo

tto

m F

loo

r (R

)St

ock

1/4”

Rig

ht p

atte

rn p

iece

.

Fron

t Pan

el (

I)

Bottom Window Panel (K)

Pend

ulum

Bra

cket

(P)

Pend

ulum

Bra

cket

(P)

Bo

tto

m F

loo

r S

pac

er (

V)

Stoc

k 1/

4”, c

ut 2

Rig

ht p

atte

rn p

iece

.Cut

on

thes

e lin

es f

or B

otto

m F

loor

Spa

cer

(V).

Bac

k Pa

nel (

I)

Step

(W

)

Side Rail (AA)

Fron

t Rai

l (Z

)

Pattern overlap line

#P568The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002

Page 48: Clocks Bonus 12 66

#P568

Top

Flo

or

(S)

Stoc

k 1/

4”, c

ut o

n ou

ter

solid

line

.L

eft p

atte

rn p

iece

.

Clo

ck P

anel

Fro

nt (

A)

Top Window Panel (C)

Clo

ck P

anel

Fro

nt (

A)

Side Rail (AA)

Fron

t Rai

l (Z

)

Top

Flo

or

Sp

acer

(U

)St

ock

1/4”

Lef

t pat

tern

pie

ce.

Cut

on

thes

e lin

es f

or T

op F

loor

Spa

cer

(U).

Cut

on

Solid

line

for

Pen

dulu

m.

Not

e: c

heck

ope

ning

for

pen

dulu

mm

ovem

ent y

ou a

re u

sing

.

Clo

ck P

anel

Bac

k (A

)

Fron

t

Pattern overlap line

The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002

Page 49: Clocks Bonus 12 66

#P568

Top

Flo

or

Sp

acer

(U

)St

ock

1/4”

Rig

ht p

atte

rn p

iece

.

Side Rail (AA)

Top

Flo

or

(S)

Stoc

k 1/

4”, c

ut o

n ou

ter

solid

line

.R

ight

pat

tern

pie

ce.

Top Window Panel (C)Pattern overlap line

Steps (W)Stock 1/4”, cut 1 each

The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002

Page 50: Clocks Bonus 12 66

#P568

Lower Bracket (T)

Stock 1/4”, cut 4

The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002

Page 51: Clocks Bonus 12 66

#P568

Bottom Front Bracket (X)

Stock 1/4”, cut 2

The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002

Page 52: Clocks Bonus 12 66

#P568

Bottom Bracket(BB)Stock 1/4”, cut 2

Side

vie

w o

f R

oof

(Y)

34°

34°

Roof (Y)Stock 1/4”, cut 2

TopAttach to Front & Back (A) with #18 x 5/8”finishing nails and glue.

Front

Side Rail (AA)Stock: 1/8”, cut 4

The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002

Page 53: Clocks Bonus 12 66

#P568 Upper Bracket (CC)Stock 1/4”, cut 4

Fro

nt

Rai

l (Z

)St

ock:

1/8

”, c

ut 2

Rig

ht p

atte

rn p

iece

.

Pattern overlap line

Fro

nt

Rai

l (Z

)St

ock:

1/8

”, c

ut 2

Lef

t pat

tern

pie

ce.

Atta

ch to

fron

t edg

e of

Top

& B

otto

m F

loor

sw

ith g

lue

and

#18

x 5/

8” f

inis

hing

nai

ls.

Pattern overlap line

The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002

Page 54: Clocks Bonus 12 66

#P568

Door Overlay (FF)Stock 1/16” - 1/8”Option: cut door at 3° bevel andthen glue back in so it extends out.

Dial Underlay (EE)Stock: 1/8”

Overlay (DD)Stock: 1/16” - 1/8”

The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002

Page 55: Clocks Bonus 12 66

#P569 - FloralCathedralA stately 30 1/2”H x12”W this beautifulfretwork clock offers adisplay area for yourfavorite figurine.Requires a 3 1/2”clock insert.

Page 56: Clocks Bonus 12 66

GENERAL SCROLLSAW TIPS & TECHNIQUES The following scrollsaw tips and techniques are intended to get you started and on your way to scrollsaw success.Not only will you find these techniques helpful in completing the this project, you will also find that they can be appliedto many other scrollsaw projects as well.

HARDWOODS VS PLYWOODS Selecting the type of material you will use is very important for the final outcome of your project. This project hasbeen designed so that hardwoods, plywoods, or a combination can be used to create your work of art. Hardwoods have their advantages as well as their disadvantages. They come in a variety of species, colors and grainpatterns, yet they are more time consuming requiring more sanding, are more likely to warp and are more expensiveto use. Plywoods, on the other hand, are less expensive, require less sanding, and come in a variety of standard thicknesses.They also are less likely to develop cracks or warp. We do, however, recommend that you use a top grade plywoodwithout voids, such as the Baltic and Finnish birches.

SANDING For most projects, it is best to sand the work piece prior to applying the paper pattern and cutting the design. Onceyou’ve cut the design, and removed the paper pattern, it may be necessary to lightly sand any glue residue remaining,along with any “fuzz” on the bottom side.

BLADE SELECTION There are many opinions pertaining to which blade to use with which type and thickness of material, as well as,with how intricate the design in the project is. The more timeyou put into scrolling, the more your choice of which blade touse will become personal preference. For the beginningscroller we make the following recommendations to getyou started:

USING THE PATTERNS Downloadable patterns give you the advantage of printing the patterns on your own printer at your own convenience.Be sure to download all of the file and save it to a disk or your harddrive according to your computer software’sinstructions. Once you have printed the number of pattern pieces that you will need to complete your projects, you are readyto apply the pattern to your work pieces. Apply the repositionable spray adhesive as directed in the next section. If your project requires piecing 2 or moresheets of paper together to make the full-size pattern piece, simply follow the instructions below for accurate alignment.

Blade Size Recommended#2/0 or #2

#5 or #7

#7 or #9

Material Thickness1/16” - 1/4”

1/4” - 1/2”

1/2” - 3/4” or thicker

Step 1Using a straightedge and a craft knife, cut on the dashed“Pattern Overlap Lines” to remove the excess paper.

Step 2Next, align the sections and secure together with clear tape.Now, apply the repositionable spray adhesive to the backsideof the paper pattern as instructed in the next section.

Cut onsolid line forFrame only.

Frame & BackStock: 1/8” - 1/4”, cut 1 eachLeft pattern piece.

Cut ondashed linefor Back

Patte

rn o

verl

ap li

ne Cleartape

Craft knife

Ruler

Patternoverlapline

Page 57: Clocks Bonus 12 66

REPOSITIONABLE SPRAY ADHESIVE Using a repositionable spray adhesive is the easiest and quickest way to transfer a pattern to your work piece afterphoto copying it. In a well ventilated area, lightly spray the backside of the paper pattern. Allow it to dry only until tacky- approximately 20 - 30 seconds. Then apply it to the work piece, smoothing any wrinkles if necessary. Two common problems that sometimes occur when using repositionable spray adhesive for the first time is applyingthe right amount onto the back of the pattern. Spraying too little may result in the pattern lifting off of the project beforeyou have finished cutting. If this occurs, clear scotch tape can be used to secure the pattern back into position. On theother hand, spraying too much will make it difficult to remove the pattern, If this occurs, simply use a hand held hair

dryer to heat the glue, which will loosen the pattern allowing it to be easilyremoved.

DRILLING STARTER HOLES When drilling starter holes it is best to drill close to a corner, ratherthan in the middle of the waste areas, as it will take less time for the bladeto reach the pattern line.

STACK CUTTING Stack cutting is fairly simple to do and can save you a lot of time whenyou have 2 or more identical pieces to cut for a project. If you are fairlynew to scrollsawing and stack cutting, we recommend cutting no morethan a total thicknessof 1/2” for bestresults. On projects with

fairly simple shapes to cut out, 2 or 3 layers could be held togetherby double-sided tape, or by using spray glue on paper to sandwichbetween the work pieces. On more intricate projects we suggest using #18 wire nails orbrads slightly longer than the total thickness of the stack you arecutting. Tack the nails into the waste areas you will cut out, alongwith a few around the outside of the project. If the nail has gonethrough the bottom of the work piece, use a hammer to tap it flush,or use coarse sandpaper to sand the points flush with the bottomof the work piece. If you are stack cutting hardwoods, do not tack the nail too closeto the pattern line or it may cause the wood to split. Another option would be to predrill for the nails with a slightlysmaller drill bit so the nail will fit snugly and hold the layers together securely.

SAWING THIN WOODS Occasionally you may find it difficult to control your workpiece when cutting in thin hardwoods or plywoods. Thefollowing suggestions should help to eliminate or reduce this problem.1. If you have a variable speed saw, reduce the speed to 1/2 to 3/4 of high speed.2. If you do not have a variable speed saw, it will help to stack cut 2 or more layers of your material to keep bettercontrol of the workpiece.3. For cutting any thickness of material it is very beneficial to keep at least one hand, if not both, partially touching thetable with your fingers for better control.4. Using a smaller blade with more teeth per inch helps to slow down how fast the blade is cutting. But keep in mindthat if the blade is leaving burn marks you will need to slow the speed down or use a blade with less teeth per inch.

Page 58: Clocks Bonus 12 66

VEINING Veining is a simple technique that will bring a lifelike

appearance to your project. The veins of a leaf or the folds

of clothing will look more realistic when this technique is

incorporated. To vein, simply saw all solid black lines as

indicated on the pattern. Some areas of the pattern you will

be able to vein by sawing inward from the outside edge, while

in other areas you will need to drill a tiny starter hole for the

blade.

AUXILIARY TABLE Most scrollsaws on the market today have an opening in

the table around the blade that is much larger than what you

really need. This often causes small and delicate fretwork to

break off on the downward stroke of the blade. An easy solution

is to add a wooden auxiliary table to the top of the metal table

on your saw.

To make an auxiliary table, choose a piece of 1/4” - 3/8” plywood

similar to the size of your current saw’s table. If you choose, you can

cut this plywood to the same shape as the metal table on your saw, or

any shape or size you prefer. However, we do recommend that you make

the table larger than what you think you will need for the size of the

projects you will make in the future.

Next, set the auxiliary table on top of the metal table. From the

underside of the metal table, use a pencil to mark the location where

the blade will feed through. Then turn the auxiliary table over and drill

a 1/16” - 1/8” diameter hole, or slightly larger than the blade you will

be using.

Finally, apply a couple of strips of double-sided carpet tape to the

metal table on each side of the blade. Then, firmly press the auxiliary

table onto the double-sided carpet tape, making sure that the blade is

centered in the hole.

FINISHING TECHNIQUES If you’ve made your project from hardwood, we recommend dipping your project in a dishpan type of container

that contains a penetrating oil such as Watco, Tung, or others. After dipping, allow the excess oil to drain back into

the pan and then follow the manufacturer’s instructions.

If you have chosen to use plywood, such as Baltic Birch, you can use any of the wide variety of wood stains

available on the market. We do, however, recommend sanding the surface thoroughly, in order for the plywood to

accept the stain more evenly.

As a final finish step, we highly recommend using a clear varathane type spray for a protective coating.

Page 59: Clocks Bonus 12 66

#P569

The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002 • All Rights Reserved www.greatamericanscrollsaw.com • a division of The Berry Basket

GREAT AMERICAN

DOWNLOADABLE PATTERNS TM

#P569 Assembly Instructions1. Select your material from a variety of hardwoods orsolid core plywood.2. Measure each pattern piece and cut the work piecesto size accordingly. Sand as necessary.3. Make all pattern pieces by adhering the paper patternsto the work pieces with a repositionable spray adhesive.Cut the outer shapes and any interior designs. And drillwhere indicated.4. Remove all paper patterns. Sand where needed. Theedges can be rounded by sanding or using a smallroundover router bit if desired.5. Assemble by first attaching the Base Side tabs intothe Front and Back Base, securing with glue. Finishingnails can also be used if desired. Next, attach the BaseAnchors into position. Then attach the Floor to the Baseassembly. Now, attach the Sides to the Front and Backalong with the 2 Wall Anchors. And attach this assemblyto the Floor. Now attach the Spire Sides to the Front andBack Spires, along with the Spire Anchors. Glue thisassembly into place on the Ceiling, and then, glue theCeiling into place. Finish as desired, and insert the clockmovement.

A

B

C

D

EF

G

J

I

#P569 - Floral Cathedral Clock

L

H

L

K

3

6

12

9

FLORAL CATHEDRAL CLOCK#P569

FrontBack

Wall AnchorSide

Front & Back BaseBase Side

Front & Back SpireSpire Side

FloorCeiling

Base AnchorSpire Anchor

Description

ABCDEFGHIJKL

Item

11221 ea21 ea21124

Qty

1/4”T x 10”W x 16”L1/4”T x 10”W x 16”L1/4”T x 2 1/2”W x 14”L1/4”T x 7 3/8”W x 15 1/2”L1/4”T x 5 1/16”W x 9 15/16”L1/4”T x 6 1/2”W x 7 3/8”L1/4”T x 6 1/4”W x 14 1/2”L1/4”T x 10”W x 13 1/2”L1/4”T x 10”W x 12 1/2”L1/4”T x 6 3/4”W x 8”L1/4”T x 2”W x 5”L1/4”T x 1 1/4”W x 12 1/4”L

Size

Page 60: Clocks Bonus 12 66

Fro

nt

(A)

Stoc

k: 1

/4”.

Top

pat

tern

pie

ce.

Insert Wall Anchortab here.

Bor

e 3”

hol

e fo

r 3

1/2”

cloc

k in

sert

.

Patte

rn o

verl

ap li

ne

#P569

The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002

Page 61: Clocks Bonus 12 66

Insert Wall Anchor tab here.Insert Side tab here.

Insert Side tabhere.

Patte

rn o

verl

ap li

ne

Patte

rn o

verl

ap li

ne

Fro

nt

(A)

Stoc

k: 1

/4”

Mid

dle

patte

rn p

iece

.

#P569

The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002

Page 62: Clocks Bonus 12 66

Insert Side tabhere.

Patte

rn o

verl

ap li

ne

Fro

nt

(A)

Stoc

k: 1

/4”

Bot

tom

pat

tern

pie

ce.

Bac

k (B

)St

ock:

1/4

”. T

op p

atte

rn p

iece

.

Patte

rn o

verl

ap li

ne

#P569The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002

Page 63: Clocks Bonus 12 66

#P569

Insert Side tab here.

Patte

rn o

verl

ap li

ne

Bac

k (B

)St

ock:

1/4

”M

iddl

e pa

ttern

pie

ce.

Patte

rn o

verl

ap li

ne

The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002

Page 64: Clocks Bonus 12 66

Pattern overlap line

Wall Anchor (C)Stock: 1/4”, cut 2

Insert Side tabhere.

Patte

rn o

verl

ap li

ne

Bac

k (B

)St

ock:

1/4

”B

otto

m p

atte

rn p

iece

.

#P569

Wall Anchor (C)Stock: 1/4”, cut 2Bottom pattern piece.

Pattern overlap line

The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002

Page 65: Clocks Bonus 12 66

Side (D)Stock: 1/4”, cut 2Top pattern piece.

Pattern overlap line

#P569The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002

Page 66: Clocks Bonus 12 66

Side (D)Stock: 1/4”, cut 2Bottom pattern piece

Pattern overlap line

#P569The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002

Page 67: Clocks Bonus 12 66

Fro

nt

& B

ack

Bas

e (E

)St

ock:

1/4

”, c

ut 1

eac

h

Side Base (F)

Side Base (F)

Base Anchor (K)

Base Anchor (K) Base Anchor (K)

Base Anchor (K)

#P569

The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002

Page 68: Clocks Bonus 12 66

#P569

Base Side (F)Stock: 1/4”, cut 2

The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002

Page 69: Clocks Bonus 12 66

#P569

Front & Back Spire (G)Stock: 1/4”, cut 1 each. Bottom pattern piece.

Pattern overlap line

Side

Spi

re (

H)

Side

Spi

re (

H)

Spir

e A

ncho

r (L

)

Spir

e A

ncho

r (L

)

The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002

Page 70: Clocks Bonus 12 66

#P569

Spire Side (H)Stock: 1/4”, cut 2. Bottompattern piece.Optional: Sand bottom,inside edges of the SpireSides, and The Front & BackSpires to sit flush on theCeiling.

Pattern overlap line

Pattern overlap line

Spire Side (H)Stock: 1/4”, cut 2. Top pattern piece.Optional: Sand bottom, inside edgesof the Spire Sides, and The Front &Back Spires to sit flush on the Ceiling.

Pattern overlap line

Front & Back Spire (G)Stock: 1/4”, cut 1 each. Top pattern piece.

Spir

e A

ncho

r (L

)

The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002

Page 71: Clocks Bonus 12 66

Floor (I)Stock: 1/4”Left pattern piece.

Front

Adjust slots, if necessary, for thethickness of the material used.

Insert Front tab here.

Insert Back Wall tab here.

Inse

rt B

ase

Side

tab

here

.

Side (D)

Patte

rn o

verl

ap li

ne

#P569The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002

Page 72: Clocks Bonus 12 66

Floor (I)Stock: 1/4”Right pattern piece.

Inse

rt B

ase

Side

tab

here

.

Side (D)

Patte

rn o

verl

ap li

ne

#P569

Base Anchor (K)Stock: 1/4”, cut 2

The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002

Page 73: Clocks Bonus 12 66

#P569

Cei

ling

(J)

Stoc

k: 1

/4”

Spir

e (G

)

Spir

e (G

)

Not

e: D

ue to

the

angl

e of

the

Spir

eas

sem

bly,

it m

ay b

e ne

cess

ary

tosa

nd th

e in

side

and

/or

outs

ide

edge

s of

the

tabs

to f

it in

the

Cei

ling

slot

s ea

sier

.

The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002

Page 74: Clocks Bonus 12 66

#P569

Spire Anchor (L

)

Stock: 1/4”, c

ut 4

The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002

Page 75: Clocks Bonus 12 66

#P570 - LeavenworthRequires a pendulum movement kit(#A309 - #A312) 24”H x 14”W

Page 76: Clocks Bonus 12 66

GENERAL SCROLLSAW TIPS & TECHNIQUES The following scrollsaw tips and techniques are intended to get you started and on your way to scrollsaw success.Not only will you find these techniques helpful in completing the this project, you will also find that they can be appliedto many other scrollsaw projects as well.

HARDWOODS VS PLYWOODS Selecting the type of material you will use is very important for the final outcome of your project. This project hasbeen designed so that hardwoods, plywoods, or a combination can be used to create your work of art. Hardwoods have their advantages as well as their disadvantages. They come in a variety of species, colors and grainpatterns, yet they are more time consuming requiring more sanding, are more likely to warp and are more expensiveto use. Plywoods, on the other hand, are less expensive, require less sanding, and come in a variety of standard thicknesses.They also are less likely to develop cracks or warp. We do, however, recommend that you use a top grade plywoodwithout voids, such as the Baltic and Finnish birches.

SANDING For most projects, it is best to sand the work piece prior to applying the paper pattern and cutting the design. Onceyou’ve cut the design, and removed the paper pattern, it may be necessary to lightly sand any glue residue remaining,along with any “fuzz” on the bottom side.

BLADE SELECTION There are many opinions pertaining to which blade to use with which type and thickness of material, as well as,with how intricate the design in the project is. The more timeyou put into scrolling, the more your choice of which blade touse will become personal preference. For the beginningscroller we make the following recommendations to getyou started:

USING THE PATTERNS Downloadable patterns give you the advantage of printing the patterns on your own printer at your own convenience.Be sure to download all of the file and save it to a disk or your harddrive according to your computer software’sinstructions. Once you have printed the number of pattern pieces that you will need to complete your projects, you are readyto apply the pattern to your work pieces. Apply the repositionable spray adhesive as directed in the next section. If your project requires piecing 2 or moresheets of paper together to make the full-size pattern piece, simply follow the instructions below for accurate alignment.

Blade Size Recommended#2/0 or #2

#5 or #7

#7 or #9

Material Thickness1/16” - 1/4”

1/4” - 1/2”

1/2” - 3/4” or thicker

Step 1Using a straightedge and a craft knife, cut on the dashed“Pattern Overlap Lines” to remove the excess paper.

Step 2Next, align the sections and secure together with clear tape.Now, apply the repositionable spray adhesive to the backsideof the paper pattern as instructed in the next section.

Cut onsolid line forFrame only.

Frame & BackStock: 1/8” - 1/4”, cut 1 eachLeft pattern piece.

Cut ondashed linefor Back

Patte

rn o

verl

ap li

ne Cleartape

Craft knife

Ruler

Patternoverlapline

Page 77: Clocks Bonus 12 66

REPOSITIONABLE SPRAY ADHESIVE Using a repositionable spray adhesive is the easiest and quickest way to transfer a pattern to your work piece afterphoto copying it. In a well ventilated area, lightly spray the backside of the paper pattern. Allow it to dry only until tacky- approximately 20 - 30 seconds. Then apply it to the work piece, smoothing any wrinkles if necessary. Two common problems that sometimes occur when using repositionable spray adhesive for the first time is applyingthe right amount onto the back of the pattern. Spraying too little may result in the pattern lifting off of the project beforeyou have finished cutting. If this occurs, clear scotch tape can be used to secure the pattern back into position. On theother hand, spraying too much will make it difficult to remove the pattern, If this occurs, simply use a hand held hair

dryer to heat the glue, which will loosen the pattern allowing it to be easilyremoved.

DRILLING STARTER HOLES When drilling starter holes it is best to drill close to a corner, ratherthan in the middle of the waste areas, as it will take less time for the bladeto reach the pattern line.

STACK CUTTING Stack cutting is fairly simple to do and can save you a lot of time whenyou have 2 or more identical pieces to cut for a project. If you are fairlynew to scrollsawing and stack cutting, we recommend cutting no morethan a total thicknessof 1/2” for bestresults. On projects with

fairly simple shapes to cut out, 2 or 3 layers could be held togetherby double-sided tape, or by using spray glue on paper to sandwichbetween the work pieces. On more intricate projects we suggest using #18 wire nails orbrads slightly longer than the total thickness of the stack you arecutting. Tack the nails into the waste areas you will cut out, alongwith a few around the outside of the project. If the nail has gonethrough the bottom of the work piece, use a hammer to tap it flush,or use coarse sandpaper to sand the points flush with the bottomof the work piece. If you are stack cutting hardwoods, do not tack the nail too closeto the pattern line or it may cause the wood to split. Another option would be to predrill for the nails with a slightlysmaller drill bit so the nail will fit snugly and hold the layers together securely.

SAWING THIN WOODS Occasionally you may find it difficult to control your workpiece when cutting in thin hardwoods or plywoods. Thefollowing suggestions should help to eliminate or reduce this problem.1. If you have a variable speed saw, reduce the speed to 1/2 to 3/4 of high speed.2. If you do not have a variable speed saw, it will help to stack cut 2 or more layers of your material to keep bettercontrol of the workpiece.3. For cutting any thickness of material it is very beneficial to keep at least one hand, if not both, partially touching thetable with your fingers for better control.4. Using a smaller blade with more teeth per inch helps to slow down how fast the blade is cutting. But keep in mindthat if the blade is leaving burn marks you will need to slow the speed down or use a blade with less teeth per inch.

Page 78: Clocks Bonus 12 66

VEINING Veining is a simple technique that will bring a lifelike

appearance to your project. The veins of a leaf or the folds

of clothing will look more realistic when this technique is

incorporated. To vein, simply saw all solid black lines as

indicated on the pattern. Some areas of the pattern you will

be able to vein by sawing inward from the outside edge, while

in other areas you will need to drill a tiny starter hole for the

blade.

AUXILIARY TABLE Most scrollsaws on the market today have an opening in

the table around the blade that is much larger than what you

really need. This often causes small and delicate fretwork to

break off on the downward stroke of the blade. An easy solution

is to add a wooden auxiliary table to the top of the metal table

on your saw.

To make an auxiliary table, choose a piece of 1/4” - 3/8” plywood

similar to the size of your current saw’s table. If you choose, you can

cut this plywood to the same shape as the metal table on your saw, or

any shape or size you prefer. However, we do recommend that you make

the table larger than what you think you will need for the size of the

projects you will make in the future.

Next, set the auxiliary table on top of the metal table. From the

underside of the metal table, use a pencil to mark the location where

the blade will feed through. Then turn the auxiliary table over and drill

a 1/16” - 1/8” diameter hole, or slightly larger than the blade you will

be using.

Finally, apply a couple of strips of double-sided carpet tape to the

metal table on each side of the blade. Then, firmly press the auxiliary

table onto the double-sided carpet tape, making sure that the blade is

centered in the hole.

FINISHING TECHNIQUES If you’ve made your project from hardwood, we recommend dipping your project in a dishpan type of container

that contains a penetrating oil such as Watco, Tung, or others. After dipping, allow the excess oil to drain back into

the pan and then follow the manufacturer’s instructions.

If you have chosen to use plywood, such as Baltic Birch, you can use any of the wide variety of wood stains

available on the market. We do, however, recommend sanding the surface thoroughly, in order for the plywood to

accept the stain more evenly.

As a final finish step, we highly recommend using a clear varathane type spray for a protective coating.

Page 79: Clocks Bonus 12 66

A

A

B

C

C

D

E

E

F

R

G

I

J

K

L

M

N

P

#P570 - The Leavenworth

Q

3

6

12

9

H

#P570 The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002 • All Rights Reserved www.greatamericanscrollsaw.com • a division of The Berry Basket

GREAT AMERICAN

DOWNLOADABLE PATTERNS TM

#P570 - Assembly Instructions1. Select your material from a variety ofhardwoods or solid core plywood.2. Measure each pattern piece and cut the workpieces to size accordingly. Sand as necessary.3. Make all pattern pieces by adhering thepaper patterns to the work pieces with arepositionable spray adhesive. Cut the outershapes and any interior designs. And drillwhere indicated.4. Remove all paper patterns. Sand whereneeded. The edges can be rounded by sandingor using a small roundover router bit if desired.5. Assemble by first attaching the Front Panel(A) to the Window Panels (B). Then attach theBack Panel (A) and the Spacer (N). Now attachthe Floor (M) with glue and / or finishing nails.Proceed to attach the Roof (C) and glue theSide Brackets (E) into position. Next, attachthe Crest (D), Dial Underlays (H & P), andthe 2 Overlays (L & Q)). Now, attach the clockmovement (excluding the pendulum) beforeproceeding. Lay the clock assembly carefully on it’sfront. Attach Bottom (G) into place. Then laythe clock assembly on it’s back to attach theBottom Brackets (F). Next, attach Bottom (R),Pendulum Overlay (K), Front Fence (I) andSide Fences (J). Hang the pendulum rod fromthe movement and adjust the length by breakingoff sections in 1” increments.

Page 80: Clocks Bonus 12 66

#P570

1 ea2214211121112111

Front & Back PanelWindow Panel

RoofCrest

Side BracketBottom Bracket

BottomDial Underlay

Front FenceSide Fence

Pendulum OverlayOverlay

FloorSpacer

Dial UnderlayOverlayBottom

Description Item Qty

ABCDEFGHIJKLMNPQR

1/4”T x 7 1/4”W x 10 5/8”L1/4”T x 4 1/2”W x 8 3/4”L1/4”T x 6”W x 7”L1/4”T x 7 3/8”W x 14 1/4”L1/4”T x 2 1/2”W x 9”L1/4”T x 4 1/2”W x 6 1/2”L1/4”T x 7 1/4”W x 11 1/2”L1/8”T x 6 5/8”W x 6 5/8”L1/8”T x 1 3/4”W x 14 1/2”L1/8”T x 1 3/4”W x 6”L1/16-1/8”T x 4”W x 4”L1/16-1/8”T x 4”W x 6 3/4”L1/4”T x 6”W x 12 1/4”L1/4”T x 4”W x 6 3/4”L1/8”T x 5 1/4”W x 5 1/4”L1/16” - 1/8”T x 1 3/4”W x 2”L1/4”T x 5 1/4”W x 4 1/2”L

#P570 - THE LEAVENWORTHSize

Win

dow

Pan

el (

B)

Win

dow

Pan

el (

B)

Use glue and #18 x 5/8” finishingnails to attach Front & Back toWindow Panels.

Spacer (N)

Drill for clockshaft.

Small dashed linesindicate placement ofDial Underlay (P).

Dashed lines indicateplacement of DialUnderlay (H).

Note: Cut a 4” diameter holein Back Panel (A). This willallow you to change thebattery and set the time.

Pattern overlap line

Front & Back Panel (A)Stock: 1/4”, cut 1 each. Bottom pattern piece.

The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002

Page 81: Clocks Bonus 12 66

#P570

Front & Back Panel (A)Stock: 1/4”, cut 1 eachTop pattern piece.

Small dashed linesindicate placement ofOverlay (L).

Dashed lines indicateplacement of DialUnderlay (H).

Pattern overlap line

The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002

Page 82: Clocks Bonus 12 66

#P570

Window Panel (B)Stock: 1/4”, cut 2

Spacer (N)

Spacer (N)

Side

Bra

cket

(E

)

Side

Bra

cket

(E

)

The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002

Page 83: Clocks Bonus 12 66

#P570

Roof (C)Stock: 1/4”, cut 2

Top

FrontAdjust slots ifnecessary forthickness ofmaterial used.

26°

26°

Side

vie

w o

f R

oof

(C)

The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002

Page 84: Clocks Bonus 12 66

Cre

st (

D)

Stoc

k: 1

/4”

Lef

t pat

tern

pie

ce.

Roo

f (C

)

Roo

f (C

)

Atta

ch C

rest

to R

oof

with

#18

x 5

/8”

fini

shin

g na

ils.

Pattern overlap line

#P570

The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002

Page 85: Clocks Bonus 12 66

Bo

tto

m B

rack

et (

F)

Stoc

k: 1

/4”,

cut

2

Crest (D)Stock: 1/4”Right pattern piece.

Roof (C)

Patte

rn o

verl

ap li

ne

#P570

Side Bracket (E)Stock: 1/4”, cut 4

The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002

Page 86: Clocks Bonus 12 66

Pattern overlap line

Bo

tto

m (

G)

Stoc

k: 1

/4”,

top

patte

rn s

ectio

nR

ight

pat

tern

pie

ce.

Bo

tto

m (

G)

Stoc

k: 1

/4”,

top

patte

rn s

ectio

nL

eft p

atte

rn p

iece

.

Das

hed

line

indi

cate

spl

acem

ent o

f Pe

ndul

umO

verl

ay (

K).

Bottom Bracket (F)

Bottom Bracket (F)

Atta

ch to

Flo

or (

M)

with

glu

e an

d#1

8 x

5/8”

fin

ishi

ng n

ails

.

Pattern overlap line

#P570

The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002

Page 87: Clocks Bonus 12 66

Front Fence (I)Stock: 1/8”. Right pattern piece.

Floor (M)

Side

Fen

ce (

J)

Pattern overlap line

Front Fence (I)Stock: 1/8”. Left pattern piece.

Floor (M)

Side

Fen

ce (

J)

Pattern overlap line

#P570

Dial Underlay (H)Stock 1/8”

Dashed line indicates placementof Dial Underlay (P).

Drill for clock shaft.

The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002

Page 88: Clocks Bonus 12 66

#P570

Side Fence (J)Stock: 1/8”, cut 2

Floor (M)

Overlay (L)Stock: 1/16” - 1/8”

Dashed line indicatesplacement of Overlay (Q).

Pendulum Overlay (K)Stock: 1/16” - 1/8”

Overlay (Q)Stock: 1/16” - 1/8”

The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002

Page 89: Clocks Bonus 12 66

Flo

or

(M)

Stoc

k: 1

/4”

Lef

t pat

tern

pie

ce.

Sp

acer

(N

)St

ock:

1/4

Cut

on

thes

e lin

es f

or S

pace

r (N

).

Bac

k Pa

nel (

A)

Fron

t (A

)

Window Panel (B)

Bot

tom

(G

)B

otto

m (

G)

Window Panel (B)

Not

e: C

heck

ope

ning

for

pen

dulu

mm

ovem

ent y

ou a

re u

sing

.

Pattern overlap line#P570

The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002

Page 90: Clocks Bonus 12 66

#P570

Window Panel (B)

Pattern overlap line

Flo

or

(M)

Stoc

k: 1

/4”

Rig

ht p

atte

rn p

iece

.

Dial Underlay (P)Stock 1/8”

Drill for clock shaft.

The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002

Page 91: Clocks Bonus 12 66

#P570

Bottom (R)Stock: 1/4”, Glue tobottom of Bottom (G).

The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002

Page 92: Clocks Bonus 12 66

#P571 - Victorian QueenFretwork Clock inspired by 18th centuryVictorian elegance. 17”H x 21”W. Requiresa 3 1/2” clock insert.

Page 93: Clocks Bonus 12 66

GENERAL SCROLLSAW TIPS & TECHNIQUES The following scrollsaw tips and techniques are intended to get you started and on your way to scrollsaw success.Not only will you find these techniques helpful in completing the this project, you will also find that they can be appliedto many other scrollsaw projects as well.

HARDWOODS VS PLYWOODS Selecting the type of material you will use is very important for the final outcome of your project. This project hasbeen designed so that hardwoods, plywoods, or a combination can be used to create your work of art. Hardwoods have their advantages as well as their disadvantages. They come in a variety of species, colors and grainpatterns, yet they are more time consuming requiring more sanding, are more likely to warp and are more expensiveto use. Plywoods, on the other hand, are less expensive, require less sanding, and come in a variety of standard thicknesses.They also are less likely to develop cracks or warp. We do, however, recommend that you use a top grade plywoodwithout voids, such as the Baltic and Finnish birches.

SANDING For most projects, it is best to sand the work piece prior to applying the paper pattern and cutting the design. Onceyou’ve cut the design, and removed the paper pattern, it may be necessary to lightly sand any glue residue remaining,along with any “fuzz” on the bottom side.

BLADE SELECTION There are many opinions pertaining to which blade to use with which type and thickness of material, as well as,with how intricate the design in the project is. The more timeyou put into scrolling, the more your choice of which blade touse will become personal preference. For the beginningscroller we make the following recommendations to getyou started:

USING THE PATTERNS Downloadable patterns give you the advantage of printing the patterns on your own printer at your own convenience.Be sure to download all of the file and save it to a disk or your harddrive according to your computer software’sinstructions. Once you have printed the number of pattern pieces that you will need to complete your projects, you are readyto apply the pattern to your work pieces. Apply the repositionable spray adhesive as directed in the next section. If your project requires piecing 2 or moresheets of paper together to make the full-size pattern piece, simply follow the instructions below for accurate alignment.

Blade Size Recommended#2/0 or #2

#5 or #7

#7 or #9

Material Thickness1/16” - 1/4”

1/4” - 1/2”

1/2” - 3/4” or thicker

Step 1Using a straightedge and a craft knife, cut on the dashed“Pattern Overlap Lines” to remove the excess paper.

Step 2Next, align the sections and secure together with clear tape.Now, apply the repositionable spray adhesive to the backsideof the paper pattern as instructed in the next section.

Cut onsolid line forFrame only.

Frame & BackStock: 1/8” - 1/4”, cut 1 eachLeft pattern piece.

Cut ondashed linefor Back

Patte

rn o

verl

ap li

ne Cleartape

Craft knife

Ruler

Patternoverlapline

Page 94: Clocks Bonus 12 66

REPOSITIONABLE SPRAY ADHESIVE Using a repositionable spray adhesive is the easiest and quickest way to transfer a pattern to your work piece afterphoto copying it. In a well ventilated area, lightly spray the backside of the paper pattern. Allow it to dry only until tacky- approximately 20 - 30 seconds. Then apply it to the work piece, smoothing any wrinkles if necessary. Two common problems that sometimes occur when using repositionable spray adhesive for the first time is applyingthe right amount onto the back of the pattern. Spraying too little may result in the pattern lifting off of the project beforeyou have finished cutting. If this occurs, clear scotch tape can be used to secure the pattern back into position. On theother hand, spraying too much will make it difficult to remove the pattern, If this occurs, simply use a hand held hair

dryer to heat the glue, which will loosen the pattern allowing it to be easilyremoved.

DRILLING STARTER HOLES When drilling starter holes it is best to drill close to a corner, ratherthan in the middle of the waste areas, as it will take less time for the bladeto reach the pattern line.

STACK CUTTING Stack cutting is fairly simple to do and can save you a lot of time whenyou have 2 or more identical pieces to cut for a project. If you are fairlynew to scrollsawing and stack cutting, we recommend cutting no morethan a total thicknessof 1/2” for bestresults. On projects with

fairly simple shapes to cut out, 2 or 3 layers could be held togetherby double-sided tape, or by using spray glue on paper to sandwichbetween the work pieces. On more intricate projects we suggest using #18 wire nails orbrads slightly longer than the total thickness of the stack you arecutting. Tack the nails into the waste areas you will cut out, alongwith a few around the outside of the project. If the nail has gonethrough the bottom of the work piece, use a hammer to tap it flush,or use coarse sandpaper to sand the points flush with the bottomof the work piece. If you are stack cutting hardwoods, do not tack the nail too closeto the pattern line or it may cause the wood to split. Another option would be to predrill for the nails with a slightlysmaller drill bit so the nail will fit snugly and hold the layers together securely.

SAWING THIN WOODS Occasionally you may find it difficult to control your workpiece when cutting in thin hardwoods or plywoods. Thefollowing suggestions should help to eliminate or reduce this problem.1. If you have a variable speed saw, reduce the speed to 1/2 to 3/4 of high speed.2. If you do not have a variable speed saw, it will help to stack cut 2 or more layers of your material to keep bettercontrol of the workpiece.3. For cutting any thickness of material it is very beneficial to keep at least one hand, if not both, partially touching thetable with your fingers for better control.4. Using a smaller blade with more teeth per inch helps to slow down how fast the blade is cutting. But keep in mindthat if the blade is leaving burn marks you will need to slow the speed down or use a blade with less teeth per inch.

Page 95: Clocks Bonus 12 66

VEINING Veining is a simple technique that will bring a lifelike

appearance to your project. The veins of a leaf or the folds

of clothing will look more realistic when this technique is

incorporated. To vein, simply saw all solid black lines as

indicated on the pattern. Some areas of the pattern you will

be able to vein by sawing inward from the outside edge, while

in other areas you will need to drill a tiny starter hole for the

blade.

AUXILIARY TABLE Most scrollsaws on the market today have an opening in

the table around the blade that is much larger than what you

really need. This often causes small and delicate fretwork to

break off on the downward stroke of the blade. An easy solution

is to add a wooden auxiliary table to the top of the metal table

on your saw.

To make an auxiliary table, choose a piece of 1/4” - 3/8” plywood

similar to the size of your current saw’s table. If you choose, you can

cut this plywood to the same shape as the metal table on your saw, or

any shape or size you prefer. However, we do recommend that you make

the table larger than what you think you will need for the size of the

projects you will make in the future.

Next, set the auxiliary table on top of the metal table. From the

underside of the metal table, use a pencil to mark the location where

the blade will feed through. Then turn the auxiliary table over and drill

a 1/16” - 1/8” diameter hole, or slightly larger than the blade you will

be using.

Finally, apply a couple of strips of double-sided carpet tape to the

metal table on each side of the blade. Then, firmly press the auxiliary

table onto the double-sided carpet tape, making sure that the blade is

centered in the hole.

FINISHING TECHNIQUES If you’ve made your project from hardwood, we recommend dipping your project in a dishpan type of container

that contains a penetrating oil such as Watco, Tung, or others. After dipping, allow the excess oil to drain back into

the pan and then follow the manufacturer’s instructions.

If you have chosen to use plywood, such as Baltic Birch, you can use any of the wide variety of wood stains

available on the market. We do, however, recommend sanding the surface thoroughly, in order for the plywood to

accept the stain more evenly.

As a final finish step, we highly recommend using a clear varathane type spray for a protective coating.

Page 96: Clocks Bonus 12 66

#P571

The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002 • All Rights Reserved www.greatamericanscrollsaw.com • a division of The Berry Basket

GREAT AMERICAN

DOWNLOADABLE PATTERNS TM

B

W

X

CC

CCZ

AA

Z

G

DD

I J BB

Z

Z

F

X

EE

E

L

H

K

SR

ST

UY V

D

#P571 - The Victorian Queen Clock

Page 97: Clocks Bonus 12 66

#P571

3

6

12

9

A

Q

N N

OO

P

M

M

#P571 - The Victorian Queen Clock

The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002

Page 98: Clocks Bonus 12 66

#P571

#P571 - The Victorian Queen

Front FrameBack Center Frame

Back Side FrameFront Leg 1st Floor2nd Floor

3rd floorCenter OverlayLeft Side Panel

Right Side PanelLeft Overlay

Right OverlaySupport CollarSupport Panel

Top Support PanelSupport Panel Design

End PanelSide Panel

End CapLeft End Cap

Right End CapTop Frame Spacer

Bottom Frame SpacerCenter Cap

End SupportEnd Cap

Right End PanelLeft End Panel

SeparatorFront Frame Support

Description

ABCDEFGHIJKLM

N, OPQRSTUVWXYZ

AABBCCDDEE

Item

11221111111122 ea1324211112421121

Qty

1/4”T x 7 1/2”W x 12 1/2”L1/4”T x 6 1/4”W x 14 1/2”L1/4”T x 8 1/4”W x 13”L1/4”T x 7 1/2”W x 12 1/2”L1/4”T x 4 9/16”W x 15 3/8”L1/4”T x 4 9/16”W x 15 3/8”L1/4”T x 4”W x 16”L1/4”T x 5”W x 7 3/8”L1/4”T x 3”W x 4 3/4”L1/4”T x 3”W x 4 3/4”L1/4”T x 2 3/8”W x 3 1/16”L1/4”T x 2 3/8”W x 3 1/16”L1/4”T x 3 1/4”W x 4 1/4”L1/16”T x 1 15/16”W x 4”L1/16”T x 1 15/16”W x 4”L1/4”T x 6”W x 7 1/4”L1/4”T x 2 3/16”W x 2 3/8”L1/4”T x 1 1/8”W x 2 3/8”L1/4”T x 13/16”W x 2 3/8”L1/4”T x 15/16”W x 2 3/8”L1/4”T x 15/16”W x 2 3/8”L1/4”T x 2 15/16”W x 12 1/4”L1/4”T x 1 9/16”W x 12 3/4”L1/8”T x 9/16”W x 2 3/8”L1/4”T x 1 1/8”W x 3 3/8”L1/4”T x 1”W x 3 1/8”L1/4”T x 3”W x 3 1/2”L1/4”T x 3”W x 3 1/2”L1/8”T x 1 1/4”W x 3”L1/4”T x 1/4”W x 4 1/4”L

Size

The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002

Page 99: Clocks Bonus 12 66

#P571

#P571 Assembly Instructions1. Select your material from a variety of hardwoods or solid core plywood.2. Measure each pattern piece and cut the work pieces to size accordingly. Sand as necessary.3. Make all pattern pieces by adhering the paper patterns to the work pieces with a repositionable spray adhesive.Cut the outer shapes and any interior designs. And drill where indicated.4. Remove all paper patterns. Sand where needed. The edges can be rounded by sanding or using a small roundoverrouter bit if desired.5. Assemble by first aligning the two Back Side Frames and the Back Center Frame side by side with their bottomsflush. Then attach the Top Frame Spacer with glue and finishing nails, making sure 1/4” space is left at the top forthe 3rd Floor. Next, place the 2nd Floor into position to get the proper spacing for the Bottom Frame Spacer. Placethe Bottom Frame Spacer so it butts up against the bottom of the 2nd Floor, and secure the Spacer in place with glueand finishing nails. Now, glue the 3 Floors into position on the above assembly. Next, insert the 2 Legs into position. Check to seethat all 4 feet are sitting flush on the table before gluing. Should one not touch, adjust the Front Leg(s) as needed bypulling the top or bottom of the Leg out slightly. Then glue to secure in place. Next, attach the Left and Right Overlays into position on the 1st and 2nd Floors, along with the 2 Center Caps.Then, attach the Center Overlay. Now, attach the 2 Separators to the Left and Right Side Panels. Then glue the FrontFrame Support into position behind the Front Frame, and then attach this assembly into place on the 2nd and 3rdFloors. Now, attach the Left and Right Side Panel assemblies into place between the 2nd and 3rd Floors. Next, attach 2 End Supports to each of the Right and Left End Panels. Then attach the End Caps to this assembly.Now, glue these assemblies into position between the 2nd and 3rd Floors. Now, glue the 4 Side Panels into place onthe ends of the 1st and 2nd Floors. Then, attach the 2 End Caps, the Right and Left End Caps, and the End Panelsinto place. Now, glue the 2 Support Collars into position, along with the 5 Support Panels. Then, attach the 3 Support PanelDesigns into place in the Top Support Panel. Finish as desired, and insert the clock movement.

Front Frame (A)Stock: 1/4”. Top pattern piece.

Pattern overlap line

The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002

Page 100: Clocks Bonus 12 66

#P571

Bore 3” hole for 3 1/2”diameter clock insert.

Front Frame (A)Stock: 1/4”

Dashed line indicatesplacement of Support Collaron backside.

Small dashed line indicatesplacement of SupportPanels.

Top Support Panel (P)

Supp

ort P

anel

(N) Support Panel (N

)

Support Panel (O)

Supp

ort P

anel

(O)

Support Collar (M)

Pattern overlap line

Front Frame (A)Stock: 1/4”. Bottom pattern piece.

The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002

Page 101: Clocks Bonus 12 66

Back Center Frame (B)Stock: 1/4”Top pattern piece.

3rd Floor

Dashed line indicatesplacement of Support Collaron frontside.

Small dashed line indicatesplacement of SupportPanels.

Top Support Panel (P)

Supp

ort P

anel

(N) Support Panel (N

)

Support Panel (O)

Supp

ort P

anel

(O)

Support Collar (M)

Pattern overlap line#P571

The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002

Page 102: Clocks Bonus 12 66

Back Center Frame (B)Stock: 1/4”Bottom pattern piece.

2nd Floor

1st Floor1st Floor

Bottom Frame Spacer (X) goes here.

Top Frame Spacer (W) goes here.

Pattern overlap line

#P571The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002

Page 103: Clocks Bonus 12 66

3rd

Floo

rPa

ttern

ove

rlap

lineF

ron

t L

eg (

D)

Stoc

k: 1

/4”,

cut

2To

p pa

ttern

pie

ce.

2nd

Floo

r

Das

hed

lines

indi

cate

Bot

tom

Fram

e Sp

acer

(X

)

1st F

loor

Bac

k S

ide

Fra

me

(C)

Stoc

k: 1

/4”,

cut

2B

otto

m p

atte

rn p

iece

.

Patte

rn o

verl

ap li

ne

#P571The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002

Page 104: Clocks Bonus 12 66

Back Side Frame (C)Stock: 1/4”, cut 2Top pattern piece.

3rd Floor

2nd Floor

Bottom Frame Spacer (X)

Pattern overlap line

#P571

Dashed line indicates TopFrame Spacer (W)

The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002

Page 105: Clocks Bonus 12 66

Front Leg (D)Stock: 1/4”, cut 2Bottom pattern piece.

1st Floor

2nd Floor

3rd Floor

Pattern overlap line

#P571The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002

Page 106: Clocks Bonus 12 66

#P571

1st

Flo

or

(E)

Stoc

k: 1

/4”

Lef

t pat

tern

pie

ce.

Front

Leg

Side

Pan

el (

S)

Side

Pan

el (

S)

End Panel (R)

End Cap (T)

Left End Cap (U)

Bot

tom

Fra

me

Spac

er (

X)

Lef

t Ove

rlay

(K

)

Cen

ter

Ove

rlay

(H

)

Cen

ter

Cap

(Y

)

Pattern overlap line

The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002

Page 107: Clocks Bonus 12 66

#P571

1st

Flo

or

(E)

Stoc

k: 1

/4”

Rig

ht p

atte

rn p

iece

.

Front

LegSi

de P

anel

(S)

Side

Pan

el (

S)

End Panel (R)

End Cap (T)

Right End Cap (V)

Rig

ht O

verl

ay (L

)

Cen

ter

Cap

(Y

)

Pattern overlap line

The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002

Page 108: Clocks Bonus 12 66

2nd

Flo

or

(F)

Stoc

k: 1

/4”

Lef

t pat

tern

pie

ce.

Lef

t Sid

e Pa

nel (

I)

Front

Leg

Sepa

rato

r (D

D)

Fron

t Fra

me

(A)

Fron

t Fra

me

Supp

ort (

EE

)

End

Sup

port

(Z

)

End

Sup

port

(Z

)

End Cap (AA)

Top

Fram

e Sp

acer

(W

)

Left End Panel (CC)

Pattern overlap line

#P571The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002

Page 109: Clocks Bonus 12 66

#P571

Rig

ht S

ide

Pane

l (J)

Front

LegEnd

Sup

port

(Z

)

End

Sup

port

(Z

)

End Cap (AA)

Sepa

rato

r (D

D)

Right End Panel (BB)

Pattern overlap line

2nd

Flo

or

(F)

Stoc

k: 1

/4”

Rig

ht p

atte

rn p

iece

.

The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002

Page 110: Clocks Bonus 12 66

3rd

Flo

or

(G)

Stoc

k: 1

/4”

Lef

t pat

tern

pie

ce.

Top

Fram

e Sp

acer

(W

)

Front

Leg

Fron

t

Pattern overlap line

#P571The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002

Page 111: Clocks Bonus 12 66

Front Leg

Pattern overlap line

3rd Floor (G)Stock: 1/4”Right pattern piece.

#P571

Center Overlay (H)Stock: 1/4”. Attach with glue,and wire brads if needed.

The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002

Page 112: Clocks Bonus 12 66

#P571

Right Side Panel (J)Stock: 1/4”

14°

End

vie

w o

f R

ight

Sid

e

45°Top view of Right Side Panel (I)

Left Side Panel (I)Stock: 1/4”

InsertSeparator (DD)tab here.

14°

End

vie

w o

f L

eft S

ide

Pane

l (I)

45° Top view of Left Side Panel (I)

Left Overlay (K)Stock: 1/4”

Top view of Left Overlay (K)45°

Right Overlay (L)Stock: 1/4”

Top view of Right Overlay (L) 45°

The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002

Page 113: Clocks Bonus 12 66

#P571

Top Support Panel (P)Stock: 1/16”

Support Panel (N) & (O)Stock: 1/16”, cut 4

Cut 2 on these linesfor Support Panel (N).

Cut 2 on these lines forSupport Panel (O).

Support Collar (M)Stock: 1/4”, cut 2

Support Panel Design (Q)Stock: 1/4”, cut 3

End Cap (T)Stock: 1/4”, cut 2

Left End Cap (U)Stock: 1/4”

Top view of LeftEnd Cap (U)

45°

Right End Cap (V)Stock: 1/4”

Top view of RightEnd Cap (V)

45°

The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002

Page 114: Clocks Bonus 12 66

Bo

tto

m F

ram

e S

pac

er (

X)

Stoc

k: 1

/4”

Lef

t pat

tern

pie

ce.

Pattern overlap line

Top

Fra

me

Sp

acer

(W

)St

ock:

1/4

”R

ight

pat

tern

pie

ce.

Pattern overlap line

Bo

tto

m F

ram

e S

pac

er (

X)

Stoc

k: 1

/4”

Rig

ht p

atte

rn p

iece

.

Pattern overlap line#P571

Top

Fra

me

Sp

acer

(W

)St

ock:

1/4

”L

eft p

atte

rn p

iece

.

Pattern overlap line

The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002

Page 115: Clocks Bonus 12 66

#P571

Separator (DD)Stock: 1/8”, cut 2

Center Cap (Y)Stock: 1/8”, cut 2

Side Panel (S)Stock: 1/4”, cut 4

End

Cap

(T,

U, V

)

End Panel (R)Stock: 1/4”, cut 2

Fro

nt

Fra

me

Su

pp

ort

(E

E)

Stoc

k: 1

/4”

End Cap (AA)Stock: 1/4”, cut 2Sand bottom and topedges to fit intoposition.

End Support (Z)Stock: 1/4”, cut 4

Left End Panel (CC)Stock: 1/4”

End

Sup

port

(Z

)

End

Sup

port

(Z

)

End

vie

w L

eft P

anel

(CC

)12

°

45° Top view of Left End Panel (CC)

Right EndPanel (BB)Stock: 1/4”

End

Sup

port

(Z

)

End

Sup

port

(Z

)

End

vie

w L

eft P

anel

(CC

)12

°

45°Top view of Right End Panel (BB)

The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002

Page 116: Clocks Bonus 12 66

#P572 - Victorian Lynn Pendulum ClockFeel a sense of accomplishment when you createone of these treasured keepskakes. 34”H x 13”W.

Page 117: Clocks Bonus 12 66

GENERAL SCROLLSAW TIPS & TECHNIQUES The following scrollsaw tips and techniques are intended to get you started and on your way to scrollsaw success.Not only will you find these techniques helpful in completing the this project, you will also find that they can be appliedto many other scrollsaw projects as well.

HARDWOODS VS PLYWOODS Selecting the type of material you will use is very important for the final outcome of your project. This project hasbeen designed so that hardwoods, plywoods, or a combination can be used to create your work of art. Hardwoods have their advantages as well as their disadvantages. They come in a variety of species, colors and grainpatterns, yet they are more time consuming requiring more sanding, are more likely to warp and are more expensiveto use. Plywoods, on the other hand, are less expensive, require less sanding, and come in a variety of standard thicknesses.They also are less likely to develop cracks or warp. We do, however, recommend that you use a top grade plywoodwithout voids, such as the Baltic and Finnish birches.

SANDING For most projects, it is best to sand the work piece prior to applying the paper pattern and cutting the design. Onceyou’ve cut the design, and removed the paper pattern, it may be necessary to lightly sand any glue residue remaining,along with any “fuzz” on the bottom side.

BLADE SELECTION There are many opinions pertaining to which blade to use with which type and thickness of material, as well as,with how intricate the design in the project is. The more timeyou put into scrolling, the more your choice of which blade touse will become personal preference. For the beginningscroller we make the following recommendations to getyou started:

USING THE PATTERNS Downloadable patterns give you the advantage of printing the patterns on your own printer at your own convenience.Be sure to download all of the file and save it to a disk or your harddrive according to your computer software’sinstructions. Once you have printed the number of pattern pieces that you will need to complete your projects, you are readyto apply the pattern to your work pieces. Apply the repositionable spray adhesive as directed in the next section. If your project requires piecing 2 or moresheets of paper together to make the full-size pattern piece, simply follow the instructions below for accurate alignment.

Blade Size Recommended#2/0 or #2

#5 or #7

#7 or #9

Material Thickness1/16” - 1/4”

1/4” - 1/2”

1/2” - 3/4” or thicker

Step 1Using a straightedge and a craft knife, cut on the dashed“Pattern Overlap Lines” to remove the excess paper.

Step 2Next, align the sections and secure together with clear tape.Now, apply the repositionable spray adhesive to the backsideof the paper pattern as instructed in the next section.

Cut onsolid line forFrame only.

Frame & BackStock: 1/8” - 1/4”, cut 1 eachLeft pattern piece.

Cut ondashed linefor Back

Patte

rn o

verl

ap li

ne Cleartape

Craft knife

Ruler

Patternoverlapline

Page 118: Clocks Bonus 12 66

REPOSITIONABLE SPRAY ADHESIVE Using a repositionable spray adhesive is the easiest and quickest way to transfer a pattern to your work piece afterphoto copying it. In a well ventilated area, lightly spray the backside of the paper pattern. Allow it to dry only until tacky- approximately 20 - 30 seconds. Then apply it to the work piece, smoothing any wrinkles if necessary. Two common problems that sometimes occur when using repositionable spray adhesive for the first time is applyingthe right amount onto the back of the pattern. Spraying too little may result in the pattern lifting off of the project beforeyou have finished cutting. If this occurs, clear scotch tape can be used to secure the pattern back into position. On theother hand, spraying too much will make it difficult to remove the pattern, If this occurs, simply use a hand held hair

dryer to heat the glue, which will loosen the pattern allowing it to be easilyremoved.

DRILLING STARTER HOLES When drilling starter holes it is best to drill close to a corner, ratherthan in the middle of the waste areas, as it will take less time for the bladeto reach the pattern line.

STACK CUTTING Stack cutting is fairly simple to do and can save you a lot of time whenyou have 2 or more identical pieces to cut for a project. If you are fairlynew to scrollsawing and stack cutting, we recommend cutting no morethan a total thicknessof 1/2” for bestresults. On projects with

fairly simple shapes to cut out, 2 or 3 layers could be held togetherby double-sided tape, or by using spray glue on paper to sandwichbetween the work pieces. On more intricate projects we suggest using #18 wire nails orbrads slightly longer than the total thickness of the stack you arecutting. Tack the nails into the waste areas you will cut out, alongwith a few around the outside of the project. If the nail has gonethrough the bottom of the work piece, use a hammer to tap it flush,or use coarse sandpaper to sand the points flush with the bottomof the work piece. If you are stack cutting hardwoods, do not tack the nail too closeto the pattern line or it may cause the wood to split. Another option would be to predrill for the nails with a slightlysmaller drill bit so the nail will fit snugly and hold the layers together securely.

SAWING THIN WOODS Occasionally you may find it difficult to control your workpiece when cutting in thin hardwoods or plywoods. Thefollowing suggestions should help to eliminate or reduce this problem.1. If you have a variable speed saw, reduce the speed to 1/2 to 3/4 of high speed.2. If you do not have a variable speed saw, it will help to stack cut 2 or more layers of your material to keep bettercontrol of the workpiece.3. For cutting any thickness of material it is very beneficial to keep at least one hand, if not both, partially touching thetable with your fingers for better control.4. Using a smaller blade with more teeth per inch helps to slow down how fast the blade is cutting. But keep in mindthat if the blade is leaving burn marks you will need to slow the speed down or use a blade with less teeth per inch.

Page 119: Clocks Bonus 12 66

VEINING Veining is a simple technique that will bring a lifelike

appearance to your project. The veins of a leaf or the folds

of clothing will look more realistic when this technique is

incorporated. To vein, simply saw all solid black lines as

indicated on the pattern. Some areas of the pattern you will

be able to vein by sawing inward from the outside edge, while

in other areas you will need to drill a tiny starter hole for the

blade.

AUXILIARY TABLE Most scrollsaws on the market today have an opening in

the table around the blade that is much larger than what you

really need. This often causes small and delicate fretwork to

break off on the downward stroke of the blade. An easy solution

is to add a wooden auxiliary table to the top of the metal table

on your saw.

To make an auxiliary table, choose a piece of 1/4” - 3/8” plywood

similar to the size of your current saw’s table. If you choose, you can

cut this plywood to the same shape as the metal table on your saw, or

any shape or size you prefer. However, we do recommend that you make

the table larger than what you think you will need for the size of the

projects you will make in the future.

Next, set the auxiliary table on top of the metal table. From the

underside of the metal table, use a pencil to mark the location where

the blade will feed through. Then turn the auxiliary table over and drill

a 1/16” - 1/8” diameter hole, or slightly larger than the blade you will

be using.

Finally, apply a couple of strips of double-sided carpet tape to the

metal table on each side of the blade. Then, firmly press the auxiliary

table onto the double-sided carpet tape, making sure that the blade is

centered in the hole.

FINISHING TECHNIQUES If you’ve made your project from hardwood, we recommend dipping your project in a dishpan type of container

that contains a penetrating oil such as Watco, Tung, or others. After dipping, allow the excess oil to drain back into

the pan and then follow the manufacturer’s instructions.

If you have chosen to use plywood, such as Baltic Birch, you can use any of the wide variety of wood stains

available on the market. We do, however, recommend sanding the surface thoroughly, in order for the plywood to

accept the stain more evenly.

As a final finish step, we highly recommend using a clear varathane type spray for a protective coating.

Page 120: Clocks Bonus 12 66

#P572

The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002 • All Rights Reserved www.greatamericanscrollsaw.com • a division of The Berry Basket

GREAT AMERICAN

DOWNLOADABLE PATTERNS TM

#P572 - Assembly Instructions1. Select your material from a variety of hardwoods or solidcore plywood.2. Measure each pattern piece and cut the work pieces to sizeaccordingly. Sand as necessary.3. Make all pattern pieces by adhering the paper patterns tothe work pieces with a repositionable spray adhesive. Cut theouter shapes and any interior designs. And drill where indicated.4. Remove all paper patterns. Sand where needed. The edgescan be rounded by sanding or using a small roundover routerbit if desired.5. Assemble by first attaching the Front and Back (B) to theSide Panels (C), then attach the Top Floor Spacer (P). Now,attach the Roofs (I) and the Crest (A). Attach this assemblyto Top Floor (H). Now, attach Front and Back (J) to the Side Arches (K).Then, attach the Top and Bottom Spacers (G). Attach thisassembly to Bottom Floor (L). And then attach the Top Floorassembly to the Top Spacer (G). Now, attach the Dial Underlays(D) and (O), Top Overlay (E), Back Overlay (Q), AngelOverlay (R), and Front Rails (F) and Side Rails (S). Next, attach the clock movement (excluding the pendulum).Then carefully lay the clock on its front and attach BottomBracket (M) into place. Then lay the clock onto its back andattach Center Bracket (N). Now hang the pendulum rod fromthe movement and adjust the length by breaking off sectionsin 1” increments.

3

6

12

9

#P572 - The Victoria Lynn

A

II

B

BC

E

D

O

PS

H

F

G

R

Q

JJ

GS

F

K

L

M

N

Page 121: Clocks Bonus 12 66

#P572

Description Item Qty

#P572 - The Victoria Lynn

ABCDEFGHIJKLMNOPQRS

11 ea21121 ea121 ea211111114

CrestFront & Back

Window PanelDial Underlay

Top OverlayFront Rail

Top & Bottom SpacerTop Floor

RoofFront & Back

Side ArchBottom Floor

Bottom BracketCenter Bracket

Dial UnderlayTop Floor Spacer

Back OverlayAngel Overlay

Side Rail

Size

1/4”T x 8 1/2”W x 13 1/2”L1/4”T x 7 1/2”W x 11 3/4”L1/4”T x 4 1/2”W x 8 3/4”L1/8”T x 6 7/8”W x 6 7/8”L1/4”T x 5”W x 6 1/4”L1/8”T x 1 1/4”W x 9”L1/4”T x 4 1/2”W x 7 1/2”L1/4”T x 6 1/2”W x 10 1/4”L1/4”T x 5 3/4”W x 7 3/4”L1/4”T x 8”W x 11 1/2”L1/4”T x 4 1/2”W x 11 1/2”L1/4”T x 6 1/2”W x 10 1/4”L1/4”T x 6 3/4”W x 8 7/8”L1/4”T x 3 7/8”W x 5 3/8”L1/8”T x 6 3/8”W x 6 3/8”L1/4”T x 4 1/2”W x 7”L1/8” - 1/4”T x 4 5/8”W x 4 5/8”L1/16” - 1/8”T x 3 3/4”W x 4 1/4”L1/8”T x 1 1/4”W x 5 3/4”L

The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002

Page 122: Clocks Bonus 12 66

Crest (A)Stock 1/4”Left pattern piece.

Patte

rn o

verl

ap li

ne

#P572The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002

Page 123: Clocks Bonus 12 66

Attach to Roof (I) with glueand #18 x 5/8” finishing nails.

Patte

rn o

verl

ap li

ne

Crest (A)Stock 1/4”Right pattern piece.

#P572The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002

Page 124: Clocks Bonus 12 66

Drill for clock shaft

Front & Back (B)Stock 1/4”, cut 1 eachBottom pattern piece.

Top Floor Spacer (P)

Side

Pan

el (

C)

Small dashed lineindicates placement ofOverlay (E).

Dashed line indicatesplacement of ClockOverlay (D).

Side

Pan

el (

C)

Note: Cut a 4” diameter holein Back (B). This will allowyou to change the battery andset the time.

Pattern overlap line

#P572The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002

Page 125: Clocks Bonus 12 66

#P572

Front & Back (B)Stock 1/4”, cut 1 eachTop pattern piece.

Front & Back (B)Stock 1/4”, cut 1 each

Small dashed lineindicates placement ofOverlay (E).

Pattern overlap line

Drill for clock shaft

Dial Underlay (D)Stock 1/8”

The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002

Page 126: Clocks Bonus 12 66

#P572

Window Panel (C)Stock 1/4”, cut 2

The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002

Page 127: Clocks Bonus 12 66

#P572

Top Overlay (E)Stock 1/16” - 1/8”

Not

e: S

and

45° a

ngle

to f

itFr

ont a

nd S

ide

Rai

ls to

geth

er.

Fro

nt

Rai

l (F

)St

ock

1/8”

, cut

2

The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002

Page 128: Clocks Bonus 12 66

#P572

Side Rail (S)

Top

Flo

or

(H)

Stoc

k 1/

4”

Window Panel (C)

Bac

k (B

)

Fron

t (B

)

Window Panel (C)

Cut

on

thes

e lin

es f

or T

op F

loor

Spa

cer

(P).

Top

Floo

r S

pace

r (P

)St

ock

1/4”

Fron

t Rai

l (F)

Side Rail (S)

Cut

on

solid

line

for

Pen

dulu

m.

Not

e: a

djus

t pen

dulu

m o

peni

ng if

nee

ded.

The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002

Page 129: Clocks Bonus 12 66

#P572

36°

36°

Side

vie

w o

f R

oof

(I)

Roof (I)Stock 1/4”, cut 2

Top

Front

Attach to Front & Back (B)with glue and #18 x 5/8”finishing nails.

The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002

Page 130: Clocks Bonus 12 66

Attach Side Arch (K) with glue and#18 x 5/8” finishing nails.

Bot

tom

Spa

cer

(G)

Bot

tom

Spa

cer

(G)

Fro

nt

& B

ack

(J)

Stoc

k 1/

4”, c

ut 1

eac

h. C

ut d

esig

n in

Fro

nt o

nly.

Cut

out

er r

ecta

ngle

onl

y fo

r B

ack.

Bot

tom

pat

tern

pie

ce.

Not

e: A

djus

t pen

dulu

m r

od s

oth

at th

e bo

b ha

ngs

in th

isap

prox

imat

e lo

catio

n.Patte

rn o

verl

ap li

ne

#P572The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002

Page 131: Clocks Bonus 12 66

#P572

Fro

nt

& B

ack

(J)

Stoc

k 1/

4”, c

ut 1

eac

h. C

ut d

esig

n in

Fro

nt o

nly.

Cut

out

er r

ecta

ngle

onl

y fo

r B

ack.

Top

patte

rn p

iece

.

Das

hed

line

indi

cate

s pl

acem

ent

of B

ack

Ove

rlay

(Q

).

Top

Spac

er (

G) Pa

ttern

ove

rlap

line

The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002

Page 132: Clocks Bonus 12 66

Sid

e A

rch

(K

)St

ock

1/4”

, cut

2B

otto

m p

atte

rn p

iece

.

Patte

rn o

verl

ap li

ne

Sid

e Arch

(K)

Stock 1/4”, cut 2Top pattern piece.

Pattern overlap line

#P572The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002

Page 133: Clocks Bonus 12 66

#P572

Bo

tto

m F

loo

r (L

)St

ock

1/4”

Top

& B

ott

om

Sp

acer

(G

)St

ock

1/4”

, cut

1 e

ach.

Side Arch (K)

Side Arch (K)

Fron

t (J

)

Bac

k (B

)

Cut

on

thes

e lin

es f

or T

op &

Bot

tom

Spa

cer

(G).

Bra

cket

(M

)B

ack

(B)

Side Rail (S)

Fron

t Rai

l (F)

Cut

on

solid

line

for

Pen

dulu

m in

Top

Spa

cer

(G)

only

.

Not

e: a

djus

t pen

dulu

m o

peni

ng if

nee

ded.

The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002

Page 134: Clocks Bonus 12 66

#P572

Bo

tto

m B

rack

et (

M)

Stoc

k 1/

4”

Center Bracket (N)

The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002

Page 135: Clocks Bonus 12 66

#P572

Cen

ter Bracket (N

)Stock 1/4”

Dial Underlay (O)Stock 1/8”

Drill for clock shaft.

Fron

tS

ide

Rai

l (S

)St

ock

1/8”

, cut

4N

ote:

San

d 45

° ang

le to

fit

Fron

t and

Sid

e R

ails

toge

ther

.

The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002

Page 136: Clocks Bonus 12 66

#P572

Back Overlay (Q)Stock 1/8” - 1/4”

Dashed line indicatesplacement of AngelOverlay (R).

Angel Overlay (R)Stock 1/16” - 1/8”

The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002

Page 137: Clocks Bonus 12 66

#P573 - Bell TowerTowering spires and elegant fretwork combine tomake this an eye-catching focal point. 23”H x 19”W.A 3 1/2” clock insert is required.

Page 138: Clocks Bonus 12 66

GENERAL SCROLLSAW TIPS & TECHNIQUES The following scrollsaw tips and techniques are intended to get you started and on your way to scrollsaw success.Not only will you find these techniques helpful in completing the this project, you will also find that they can be appliedto many other scrollsaw projects as well.

HARDWOODS VS PLYWOODS Selecting the type of material you will use is very important for the final outcome of your project. This project hasbeen designed so that hardwoods, plywoods, or a combination can be used to create your work of art. Hardwoods have their advantages as well as their disadvantages. They come in a variety of species, colors and grainpatterns, yet they are more time consuming requiring more sanding, are more likely to warp and are more expensiveto use. Plywoods, on the other hand, are less expensive, require less sanding, and come in a variety of standard thicknesses.They also are less likely to develop cracks or warp. We do, however, recommend that you use a top grade plywoodwithout voids, such as the Baltic and Finnish birches.

SANDING For most projects, it is best to sand the work piece prior to applying the paper pattern and cutting the design. Onceyou’ve cut the design, and removed the paper pattern, it may be necessary to lightly sand any glue residue remaining,along with any “fuzz” on the bottom side.

BLADE SELECTION There are many opinions pertaining to which blade to use with which type and thickness of material, as well as,with how intricate the design in the project is. The more timeyou put into scrolling, the more your choice of which blade touse will become personal preference. For the beginningscroller we make the following recommendations to getyou started:

USING THE PATTERNS Downloadable patterns give you the advantage of printing the patterns on your own printer at your own convenience.Be sure to download all of the file and save it to a disk or your harddrive according to your computer software’sinstructions. Once you have printed the number of pattern pieces that you will need to complete your projects, you are readyto apply the pattern to your work pieces. Apply the repositionable spray adhesive as directed in the next section. If your project requires piecing 2 or moresheets of paper together to make the full-size pattern piece, simply follow the instructions below for accurate alignment.

Blade Size Recommended#2/0 or #2

#5 or #7

#7 or #9

Material Thickness1/16” - 1/4”

1/4” - 1/2”

1/2” - 3/4” or thicker

Step 1Using a straightedge and a craft knife, cut on the dashed“Pattern Overlap Lines” to remove the excess paper.

Step 2Next, align the sections and secure together with clear tape.Now, apply the repositionable spray adhesive to the backsideof the paper pattern as instructed in the next section.

Cut onsolid line forFrame only.

Frame & BackStock: 1/8” - 1/4”, cut 1 eachLeft pattern piece.

Cut ondashed linefor Back

Patte

rn o

verl

ap li

ne Cleartape

Craft knife

Ruler

Patternoverlapline

Page 139: Clocks Bonus 12 66

REPOSITIONABLE SPRAY ADHESIVE Using a repositionable spray adhesive is the easiest and quickest way to transfer a pattern to your work piece afterphoto copying it. In a well ventilated area, lightly spray the backside of the paper pattern. Allow it to dry only until tacky- approximately 20 - 30 seconds. Then apply it to the work piece, smoothing any wrinkles if necessary. Two common problems that sometimes occur when using repositionable spray adhesive for the first time is applyingthe right amount onto the back of the pattern. Spraying too little may result in the pattern lifting off of the project beforeyou have finished cutting. If this occurs, clear scotch tape can be used to secure the pattern back into position. On theother hand, spraying too much will make it difficult to remove the pattern, If this occurs, simply use a hand held hair

dryer to heat the glue, which will loosen the pattern allowing it to be easilyremoved.

DRILLING STARTER HOLES When drilling starter holes it is best to drill close to a corner, ratherthan in the middle of the waste areas, as it will take less time for the bladeto reach the pattern line.

STACK CUTTING Stack cutting is fairly simple to do and can save you a lot of time whenyou have 2 or more identical pieces to cut for a project. If you are fairlynew to scrollsawing and stack cutting, we recommend cutting no morethan a total thicknessof 1/2” for bestresults. On projects with

fairly simple shapes to cut out, 2 or 3 layers could be held togetherby double-sided tape, or by using spray glue on paper to sandwichbetween the work pieces. On more intricate projects we suggest using #18 wire nails orbrads slightly longer than the total thickness of the stack you arecutting. Tack the nails into the waste areas you will cut out, alongwith a few around the outside of the project. If the nail has gonethrough the bottom of the work piece, use a hammer to tap it flush,or use coarse sandpaper to sand the points flush with the bottomof the work piece. If you are stack cutting hardwoods, do not tack the nail too closeto the pattern line or it may cause the wood to split. Another option would be to predrill for the nails with a slightlysmaller drill bit so the nail will fit snugly and hold the layers together securely.

SAWING THIN WOODS Occasionally you may find it difficult to control your workpiece when cutting in thin hardwoods or plywoods. Thefollowing suggestions should help to eliminate or reduce this problem.1. If you have a variable speed saw, reduce the speed to 1/2 to 3/4 of high speed.2. If you do not have a variable speed saw, it will help to stack cut 2 or more layers of your material to keep bettercontrol of the workpiece.3. For cutting any thickness of material it is very beneficial to keep at least one hand, if not both, partially touching thetable with your fingers for better control.4. Using a smaller blade with more teeth per inch helps to slow down how fast the blade is cutting. But keep in mindthat if the blade is leaving burn marks you will need to slow the speed down or use a blade with less teeth per inch.

Page 140: Clocks Bonus 12 66

VEINING Veining is a simple technique that will bring a lifelike

appearance to your project. The veins of a leaf or the folds

of clothing will look more realistic when this technique is

incorporated. To vein, simply saw all solid black lines as

indicated on the pattern. Some areas of the pattern you will

be able to vein by sawing inward from the outside edge, while

in other areas you will need to drill a tiny starter hole for the

blade.

AUXILIARY TABLE Most scrollsaws on the market today have an opening in

the table around the blade that is much larger than what you

really need. This often causes small and delicate fretwork to

break off on the downward stroke of the blade. An easy solution

is to add a wooden auxiliary table to the top of the metal table

on your saw.

To make an auxiliary table, choose a piece of 1/4” - 3/8” plywood

similar to the size of your current saw’s table. If you choose, you can

cut this plywood to the same shape as the metal table on your saw, or

any shape or size you prefer. However, we do recommend that you make

the table larger than what you think you will need for the size of the

projects you will make in the future.

Next, set the auxiliary table on top of the metal table. From the

underside of the metal table, use a pencil to mark the location where

the blade will feed through. Then turn the auxiliary table over and drill

a 1/16” - 1/8” diameter hole, or slightly larger than the blade you will

be using.

Finally, apply a couple of strips of double-sided carpet tape to the

metal table on each side of the blade. Then, firmly press the auxiliary

table onto the double-sided carpet tape, making sure that the blade is

centered in the hole.

FINISHING TECHNIQUES If you’ve made your project from hardwood, we recommend dipping your project in a dishpan type of container

that contains a penetrating oil such as Watco, Tung, or others. After dipping, allow the excess oil to drain back into

the pan and then follow the manufacturer’s instructions.

If you have chosen to use plywood, such as Baltic Birch, you can use any of the wide variety of wood stains

available on the market. We do, however, recommend sanding the surface thoroughly, in order for the plywood to

accept the stain more evenly.

As a final finish step, we highly recommend using a clear varathane type spray for a protective coating.

Page 141: Clocks Bonus 12 66

#P573

#P573 - AssemblyInstructions

1. Select your material from a variety ofhardwoods or solid core plywood.2. Measure each pattern piece and cutthe work pieces to size accordingly. Sandas necessary.3. Make all pattern pieces by adheringthe paper patterns to the work pieceswith a repositionable spray adhesive. Cutthe outer shapes and any interior designs.And drill where indicated.4. Remove all paper patterns. Sand whereneeded. The edges can be rounded bysanding or using a small roundover routerbit if desired.5. Assemble by first attaching the Frontand Back (W) to the Sides (X), then addSpacers (Y). Next, attach this assemblyto Bottom floor (G). Now attach Frontand Back Panel (O) to the Side Windows(Q), and attach the Spacers (P). Thenattach Overlays (R) to the Side Windows.Now, attach the Front and Back Panelassembly to the Center Floor (F), andthen glue the Center floor to the Baseassembly (WXY). Attach Front Walls (H) and BackWalls (I) to The Sides Walls (J). Securethe Wall Anchors (V5) into place, andthen secure these assemblies to CenterFloor (F). Now, attach Roofs (C) and CenterCrest (D) to the Front and Back Gables(B). Attach this assembly to the Top Floor(E). Next, attach Crests (A), Top SideRails (V3), and Top Front Rail (V6).Then attach the Side Rails (V2), and SideRails (V4) into place. Now, attach theFront Legs (Z1), and then the Front Rails(V1). Then, attach the Rear Legs (Z2). Attach the Front Walls (S) and BackWalls (T) to the Side Walls (U). Then,attach the Ceilings (N), and Wall Anchors(M). Now, attach the Front and BackSpires (K) to the Side Spires (L), andattach this assembly to the Ceilings. Then,attach this entire assembly to the TopFloor (E). Attach the bells, and finish asdesired.

3

6

12

9

#P573 - Bell Tower Clock

AAD

C

B

KL

N

M

E

S

T

U

V2

V3V6

IJ R

O

QOP

V5

FV4

H

V1

V1

Z1

Y

Y W

W

XZ1

Z2

V4

G

The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002

Page 142: Clocks Bonus 12 66

#P573

The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002 • All Rights Reserved www.greatamericanscrollsaw.com • a division of The Berry Basket

GREAT AMERICAN

DOWNLOADABLE PATTERNS TM

ABCDEFGHIJKLMNOPQRSTUV1V2V3V4V5V6WXYZ1Z2

#P573 - The Bell Tower

CrestFront & Back Gable

RoofCenter Crest

Top FloorCenter FloorBottom Floor

Front WallBack WallSide Wall

Front & Back SpireSide Spire

Wall AnchorCeiling

Front & Back PanelSpacer

Side WindowOverlay

Front WallBack WallSide WallFront RailSide Rail

Top Side RailSide Rail

Wall AnchorTop Front RailFront & Back

SideSpacer

Front LegsRear Legs

Description Item

22211112242 ea4821 ea2222242224811 ea2222

Qty Size

1/4”T x 3”W x 10 1/2”L1/4”T x 5 1/2”W x 6 3/8”L1/4”T x 5 3/4”W x 6 5/8”L1/4”T x 4 3/4”W x 7 3/8”L1/4”T x 5 3/4”W x 16”L1/4”T x 5 3/4”W x 16”L1/4”T x 5 3/4”W x 16”L1/8”T x 3 1/2”W x 7 1/2”L1/8”T x 3 5/8”W x 7 5/8”L1/8”T x 3 1/4”W x 7 3/8”L1/8”T x 2 5/8”W x 4 1/4”L1/8”T x 1 7/8”W x 4”L1/8”T x 5/8”W x 4”L1/8”T x 3”W x 3 1/8”L1/4”T x 7 3/8”W x 7 3/8”L1/4”T x 4”W x 6 7/8”L1/4”T x 4”W x 7 3/8”L1/16”-1/8”T x 2 5/8”W x 6 3/4”L1/8”T x 3 1/2”W x 7 1/4”L1/8”T x 3 5/8”W x 6 1/4”L1/8”T x 3 1/8”W x 6”L1/8”T x 3”W x 15 7/8”L1/8”T x 3”W x 4 3/4”L1/8”T x 3”W x 4 1/2”L1/8”T x 3”W x 5 3/4”L1/8”T x 5/8”W x 7 3/8”L1/8”T x 3”W x 6 1/2”L1/4”T x 3 7/8”W x 14 1/2”L1/4”T x 3 7/8”W x 4 1/2”L1/4”T x 4 1/2”W x 14”L1/4”T x 3 1/8”W x 8 3/8”L1/4”T x 3 5/8”W x 8 3/8”L

Page 143: Clocks Bonus 12 66

#P573

Crest (A)Stock 1/4”, cut 2

Attach to Roof withglue and #18 x 5/8”finishing nails.

Cen

ter

Cre

st (

D)

The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002

Page 144: Clocks Bonus 12 66

#P573

Front & Back Gable (B)Stock 1/4”, cut 2cut design for Front only.

Roo

f (C

)R

oof (C)

Cen

ter

Cre

st (

D)

The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002

Page 145: Clocks Bonus 12 66

#P573

58°

30°

Roof (C)Stock 1/4”, cut 2.Bevel edge by sanding on a belt sanderto fit against Center Crest (D).

Top

Front

Side

vie

w o

f R

oof

(C)

(B)

(B)

The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002

Page 146: Clocks Bonus 12 66

#P573

Center Crest (D)Stock 1/4”

Top of Roof (C)

Cre

st (

A)

The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002

Page 147: Clocks Bonus 12 66

#P573

Top

Flo

or

(E)

Stoc

k 1/

4”. L

eft p

atte

rn p

iece

.

Cre

st (

A)

Rail (V2)

Fron

t Gab

le (

B)

Roof (C)

Bac

k G

able

(B

)

Rai

l (V

6)

Fron

tTo

p Si

de R

ail (

V3)

Fron

t Wal

l (S)

Side Wall (U)

Side Wall (U)

Pattern overlap line

Fron

t Wal

l (T

)

The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002

Page 148: Clocks Bonus 12 66

#P573

Rail (V2)

Roof (C)

Bac

k G

able

(B

)

Top

Side

Rai

l (V

3)

Bac

k W

all (

T)

Fron

t Wal

l (S)

Side Wall (U)

Side Wall (U)

Cre

st (

A)

Pattern overlap line

Top

Flo

or

(E)

Stoc

k 1/

4”. R

ight

pat

tern

pie

ce.

The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002

Page 149: Clocks Bonus 12 66

#P573

Cen

ter

Flo

or

(F)

Stoc

k 1/

4”L

eft p

atte

rn p

iece

.

Rai

l V1

Rail (V4)

Sp

acer

(P

)St

ock

1/4”

, cut

2L

eft p

atte

rn p

iece

.

Fron

t Pan

el (

O)

Side Window (Q)

Cut

on

thes

e lin

es f

or S

pace

r (P

).

Bac

k Pa

nel (

O)

Bac

k W

all (

I)

Fron

t Wal

l (H

)

Side Wall (J)

Side Wall (J)

Pattern overlap line

The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002

Page 150: Clocks Bonus 12 66

#P573

Cen

ter

Flo

or

(F)

Stoc

k 1/

4”. R

ight

pat

tern

pie

ce.

Rail (V4)

Sp

acer

(P

)St

ock

1/4”

, cut

2R

ight

pat

tern

pie

ce.

Side Window (Q)

Bac

k W

all (

I)

Fron

t Wal

l (H

)

Side Wall (J)

Side Wall (J)Pattern overlap line

The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002

Page 151: Clocks Bonus 12 66

#P573

Not

e: S

and

angl

e to

fit

next

to F

ront

Leg

s

Bo

tto

m F

loo

r (G

)St

ock

1/4”

. Lef

t pat

tern

pie

ce.

Rai

l V1

Rail (V4)

Sp

acer

(Y

)St

ock

1/4”

, cut

2L

eft p

atte

rn p

iece

.

Fron

t (W

)

Side (X)

Cut

on

thes

e lin

es fo

r Spa

cer (

Y).

Bac

k (W

)

Pattern overlap line

The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002

Page 152: Clocks Bonus 12 66

#P573

Bo

tto

m F

loo

r (G

)St

ock

1/4”

. Rig

ht p

atte

rn p

iece

.

Rail (V4)

Sp

acer

(Y

)St

ock

1/4”

, cut

2R

ight

pat

tern

pie

ce.

Side (X)Pattern overlap line

The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002

Page 153: Clocks Bonus 12 66

#P573

Back Wall (I)Stock: 1/8”, cut 2

Inse

rt W

all

Anc

hor

tab

here

.

Front Wall (H)Stock: 1/8”, cut 2

The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002

Page 154: Clocks Bonus 12 66

#P573

Ceiling (N)Stock: 1/8”, cut 2

Front

Drill for a screw eyeto hold bell of yourchoice.

Wall Anchor (M)Stock: 1/8”, cut 8

Front & Back Spire (K)Stock: 1/8”, cut 2 each

Sp

ire

Sid

e (L

)St

ock:

1/8

”, c

ut 4

Side Wall (J)Stock 1/8”, cut 4

The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002

Page 155: Clocks Bonus 12 66

#P573

Spacer (P)

Spacer (P)

Front & Back Panel (O)Stock: 1/4”, cut 1 each. Cut designand clock insert opening in Front only.

Bore a 3” hole for a 3 1/2 dia.clock insert.

Side

Win

dow

(Q

)

Attach with glue and #18 x 5/8”finishing nails.

The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002

Page 156: Clocks Bonus 12 66

#P573

Sid

e W

ind

ow

(Q

)St

ock

1/4”

, cut

2 Smal

l das

hed

line

indi

cate

spl

acem

ent o

f ov

erla

y (R

).

Spac

er (

P)

Spac

er (

P)

Fro

nt

Wal

l (S

)St

ock:

1/8

”, c

ut 2

The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002

Page 157: Clocks Bonus 12 66

#P573

Side Wall (U)Stock: 1/8”, cut 4

Back Wall (T)Stock: 1/8”, cut 2

WallAnchor(M)

Ove

rlay

(R

)St

ock

1/16

” -

1/8”

, cut

2

The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002

Page 158: Clocks Bonus 12 66

Fro

nt

Rai

l (V

1)St

ock

1/8”

, cut

2L

eft p

atte

rn p

iece

.Bot

tom

Flo

or a

nd C

ente

r Fl

oor

Not

e: S

and

angl

e to

fit

next

to F

ront

Leg

s

Fro

nt

Rai

l (V

1)St

ock

1/8”

, cut

2. R

ight

patte

rn p

iece

.

Pattern overlap line#P573

Side Rail (V2)Stock 1/8”, cut 2

Top Floor (E)

Pattern overlap line

Atta

ch w

ith g

lue

and

#18

x 5/

8” f

inis

hing

nai

ls.

The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002

Page 159: Clocks Bonus 12 66

#P573

Top Front Rail (V6)Stock 1/8”

Attach Top Floor (E) with glue and #18 x 5/8” finishing nails.

Side Rail (V4)Stock 1/8”, cut 4Sand angle to fit

against Front Leg

Front

Center Floor (F) & Bottom Floor (G)

Wall Anchor (V5)Stock: 1/8”, cut 8

Top Side Rail (V3)Stock 1/8”, cut 2

Top Floor (E)

Outside edge

Rai

l (V

2)

The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002

Page 160: Clocks Bonus 12 66

#P573

Fro

nt

& B

ack

(W)

Stoc

k: 1

/4”,

cut

1 e

ach

Not

e: c

ut d

esig

n in

Fro

nt o

nly.

Rig

ht p

atte

rn p

iece

.

Side (X)

Pattern overlap line

The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002

Page 161: Clocks Bonus 12 66

#P573

Front Legs (Z1)Stock 1/4”, cut 2

Fro

nt

& B

ack

(W)

Stoc

k: 1

/4”,

cut

1 e

ach

Not

e: c

ut d

esig

n in

Fro

nton

ly. L

eft p

atte

rn p

iece

.

Side (X)

Spac

er (

Y)

Spac

er (

Y)

Pattern overlap line

The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002

Page 162: Clocks Bonus 12 66

#P573

Rear Leg (Z2)Stock 1/4”, cut 2

Attach to Floorswith glue and#18 x 5/8”finishing nails.

Sid

e (X

)St

ock:

1/4

”, c

ut 2

Spac

er (

Y)

The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002

Page 163: Clocks Bonus 12 66

#P574 - Pendulum Clock15”H. Order Movement #C131& Hands #C137 or #C138

Page 164: Clocks Bonus 12 66

GENERAL SCROLLSAW TIPS & TECHNIQUES The following scrollsaw tips and techniques are intended to get you started and on your way to scrollsaw success.Not only will you find these techniques helpful in completing the this project, you will also find that they can be appliedto many other scrollsaw projects as well.

HARDWOODS VS PLYWOODS Selecting the type of material you will use is very important for the final outcome of your project. This project hasbeen designed so that hardwoods, plywoods, or a combination can be used to create your work of art. Hardwoods have their advantages as well as their disadvantages. They come in a variety of species, colors and grainpatterns, yet they are more time consuming requiring more sanding, are more likely to warp and are more expensiveto use. Plywoods, on the other hand, are less expensive, require less sanding, and come in a variety of standard thicknesses.They also are less likely to develop cracks or warp. We do, however, recommend that you use a top grade plywoodwithout voids, such as the Baltic and Finnish birches.

SANDING For most projects, it is best to sand the work piece prior to applying the paper pattern and cutting the design. Onceyou’ve cut the design, and removed the paper pattern, it may be necessary to lightly sand any glue residue remaining,along with any “fuzz” on the bottom side.

BLADE SELECTION There are many opinions pertaining to which blade to use with which type and thickness of material, as well as,with how intricate the design in the project is. The more timeyou put into scrolling, the more your choice of which blade touse will become personal preference. For the beginningscroller we make the following recommendations to getyou started:

USING THE PATTERNS Downloadable patterns give you the advantage of printing the patterns on your own printer at your own convenience.Be sure to download all of the file and save it to a disk or your harddrive according to your computer software’sinstructions. Once you have printed the number of pattern pieces that you will need to complete your projects, you are readyto apply the pattern to your work pieces. Apply the repositionable spray adhesive as directed in the next section. If your project requires piecing 2 or moresheets of paper together to make the full-size pattern piece, simply follow the instructions below for accurate alignment.

Blade Size Recommended#2/0 or #2

#5 or #7

#7 or #9

Material Thickness1/16” - 1/4”

1/4” - 1/2”

1/2” - 3/4” or thicker

Step 1Using a straightedge and a craft knife, cut on the dashed“Pattern Overlap Lines” to remove the excess paper.

Step 2Next, align the sections and secure together with clear tape.Now, apply the repositionable spray adhesive to the backsideof the paper pattern as instructed in the next section.

Cut onsolid line forFrame only.

Frame & BackStock: 1/8” - 1/4”, cut 1 eachLeft pattern piece.

Cut ondashed linefor Back

Patte

rn o

verl

ap li

ne Cleartape

Craft knife

Ruler

Patternoverlapline

Page 165: Clocks Bonus 12 66

REPOSITIONABLE SPRAY ADHESIVE Using a repositionable spray adhesive is the easiest and quickest way to transfer a pattern to your work piece afterphoto copying it. In a well ventilated area, lightly spray the backside of the paper pattern. Allow it to dry only until tacky- approximately 20 - 30 seconds. Then apply it to the work piece, smoothing any wrinkles if necessary. Two common problems that sometimes occur when using repositionable spray adhesive for the first time is applyingthe right amount onto the back of the pattern. Spraying too little may result in the pattern lifting off of the project beforeyou have finished cutting. If this occurs, clear scotch tape can be used to secure the pattern back into position. On theother hand, spraying too much will make it difficult to remove the pattern, If this occurs, simply use a hand held hair

dryer to heat the glue, which will loosen the pattern allowing it to be easilyremoved.

DRILLING STARTER HOLES When drilling starter holes it is best to drill close to a corner, ratherthan in the middle of the waste areas, as it will take less time for the bladeto reach the pattern line.

STACK CUTTING Stack cutting is fairly simple to do and can save you a lot of time whenyou have 2 or more identical pieces to cut for a project. If you are fairlynew to scrollsawing and stack cutting, we recommend cutting no morethan a total thicknessof 1/2” for bestresults. On projects with

fairly simple shapes to cut out, 2 or 3 layers could be held togetherby double-sided tape, or by using spray glue on paper to sandwichbetween the work pieces. On more intricate projects we suggest using #18 wire nails orbrads slightly longer than the total thickness of the stack you arecutting. Tack the nails into the waste areas you will cut out, alongwith a few around the outside of the project. If the nail has gonethrough the bottom of the work piece, use a hammer to tap it flush,or use coarse sandpaper to sand the points flush with the bottomof the work piece. If you are stack cutting hardwoods, do not tack the nail too closeto the pattern line or it may cause the wood to split. Another option would be to predrill for the nails with a slightlysmaller drill bit so the nail will fit snugly and hold the layers together securely.

SAWING THIN WOODS Occasionally you may find it difficult to control your workpiece when cutting in thin hardwoods or plywoods. Thefollowing suggestions should help to eliminate or reduce this problem.1. If you have a variable speed saw, reduce the speed to 1/2 to 3/4 of high speed.2. If you do not have a variable speed saw, it will help to stack cut 2 or more layers of your material to keep bettercontrol of the workpiece.3. For cutting any thickness of material it is very beneficial to keep at least one hand, if not both, partially touching thetable with your fingers for better control.4. Using a smaller blade with more teeth per inch helps to slow down how fast the blade is cutting. But keep in mindthat if the blade is leaving burn marks you will need to slow the speed down or use a blade with less teeth per inch.

Page 166: Clocks Bonus 12 66

VEINING Veining is a simple technique that will bring a lifelike

appearance to your project. The veins of a leaf or the folds

of clothing will look more realistic when this technique is

incorporated. To vein, simply saw all solid black lines as

indicated on the pattern. Some areas of the pattern you will

be able to vein by sawing inward from the outside edge, while

in other areas you will need to drill a tiny starter hole for the

blade.

AUXILIARY TABLE Most scrollsaws on the market today have an opening in

the table around the blade that is much larger than what you

really need. This often causes small and delicate fretwork to

break off on the downward stroke of the blade. An easy solution

is to add a wooden auxiliary table to the top of the metal table

on your saw.

To make an auxiliary table, choose a piece of 1/4” - 3/8” plywood

similar to the size of your current saw’s table. If you choose, you can

cut this plywood to the same shape as the metal table on your saw, or

any shape or size you prefer. However, we do recommend that you make

the table larger than what you think you will need for the size of the

projects you will make in the future.

Next, set the auxiliary table on top of the metal table. From the

underside of the metal table, use a pencil to mark the location where

the blade will feed through. Then turn the auxiliary table over and drill

a 1/16” - 1/8” diameter hole, or slightly larger than the blade you will

be using.

Finally, apply a couple of strips of double-sided carpet tape to the

metal table on each side of the blade. Then, firmly press the auxiliary

table onto the double-sided carpet tape, making sure that the blade is

centered in the hole.

FINISHING TECHNIQUES If you’ve made your project from hardwood, we recommend dipping your project in a dishpan type of container

that contains a penetrating oil such as Watco, Tung, or others. After dipping, allow the excess oil to drain back into

the pan and then follow the manufacturer’s instructions.

If you have chosen to use plywood, such as Baltic Birch, you can use any of the wide variety of wood stains

available on the market. We do, however, recommend sanding the surface thoroughly, in order for the plywood to

accept the stain more evenly.

As a final finish step, we highly recommend using a clear varathane type spray for a protective coating.

Page 167: Clocks Bonus 12 66

#P574

ABCDEFGHIJKLMN

1 ea6222121112112

Front & BackRoof

GableGable Underlay

Side OverlayBottom Overlay

SideDial

BottomEagle

Leaf OverlayPendulum

DoorLeaf

Description Item Qty

#P574 - The Eagle Black Forest Clock

1/4”T x 6”W x 10 7/8”L1/4”T x 2”W x 5”L1/4”T x 2 3/8”W x 7”L1/4”T x 1 5/8”W x 5 7/8”L1/4”T x 2”W x 7 1/4”L1/4”T x 2 1/8”W x 5 3/8”L1/4”T x 3 1/2”W x 7 3/4”L1/8”T x 5 1/2”W 5 1/2”L1/4”T x 3 1/2”W x 5 1/2”L1/16” - 1/8”T x 5”W x 8 3/4”L1/16” - 1/8”T x 4 3/4”W x 8 1/2”L1/16” - 1/8”T x 4”W x 11 1/8”L1/16” - 1/8”T x 2 1/2”W x 5”L1/8”T x 4 1/8”W x 5 1/8”L

Size

1/4” diameter x 5”L dowel.

Front & Back (A)Stock: 1/4”, cut 1 each.Bottom pattern piece.

Roof (B)

Pattern overlap line

Front & Back (A)Stock: 1/4”, cut 1 each.Top pattern piece.

The Berry Basket © Copyright 2001 • All Rights Reserved www.greatamericanscrollsaw.com • a division of The Berry Basket

GREAT AMERICAN

DOWNLOADABLE PATTERNS TM

AA

B

B

B

C

D

E

E

F

G

H

I

J

K

N

L

N M

#P574 - EagleBlack Forest Clock

#P574 - Assembly Instructions1. Select your material from a variety of hardwoods or solidcore plywood.2. Measure each pattern piece and cut the work pieces to sizeaccordingly. Sand as necessary.3. Make all pattern pieces by adhering the paper patterns to thework pieces with a repositionable spray adhesive. Cut the outershapes and any interior designs. And drill where indicated.4. Remove all paper patterns. Sand where needed. The edgescan be rounded by sanding or using a small roundover routerbit if desired.5. Assemble by first attaching the Front to the Sides andBottom, then attach the Back. Now, attach the Roof pieces.Then, attach the Gable Underlay, Side Overlay and BottomOverlay into place. Next, attach the Dial and Door. Now, attachthe Gable to the Roof, and secure the Leaf Overlay, Leaves,and Eagle into place. Insert the clock movement and secure inplace. Finish as desired.

Page 168: Clocks Bonus 12 66

#P574

Front & Back (A)Stock: 1/4”, cut 1 each.Bottom pattern piece.

Dashed line indicatesDial (H).

Drill 5/16” hole forclock shaft.

Attach Sides (G) with glue and#18 x 5/8” wire brads.

Roof (B)

Roof (B)

Roof (B)

Note: Cut a 4” diameterhole in the Back. This willallow you to change thebattery and set the time.

Attach Sides (G) with glue and#18 x 5/8” wire brads.

Side

(G

)

Side

(G

)

Bottom (I)

Dashed lineindicatesplacement ofDoor (M).

Pattern overlap line

The Berry Basket © Copyright 2001

Page 169: Clocks Bonus 12 66

#P574

Gable (C)Stock: 1/4”, cut 2

Roof (B)

Roof (B)

Roof (B)

Gable Underlay (D)Stock: 1/4”, cut 2

Bottom Overlay (F)Stock: 1/4”

Side Overlay (E)Stock: 1/4”, cut 2

Top

Outsideedge

Bac

k (A

) Fron

t (A

)Roof (B)Stock: 1/4”, cut 6 Front

Top

The Berry Basket © Copyright 2001

Page 170: Clocks Bonus 12 66

Bo

tto

m (

I)St

ock:

1/4

Fron

t

#P574

Side (G)Stock: 1/4”, cut 2

The Berry Basket © Copyright 2001

Page 171: Clocks Bonus 12 66

#P574

Eagle

(J)

Stoc

k: 1

/16”

- 1/

8”

Dial (H)Stock: 1/8”Drill 5/16” hole for clock shaft.

The Berry Basket © Copyright 2001

Page 172: Clocks Bonus 12 66

Leaf Overlay (K)Stock: 1/16” - 1/8”, cut 2

Do

or

(M)

Stoc

k: 1

/16”

- 1

/8”

#P574The Berry Basket © Copyright 2001

Page 173: Clocks Bonus 12 66

#P574

Leaf (N)Stock: 1/8”, cut 2

Recommended PendulumMovement - #C131Hands - #C137 or #C138

Pendulum (L)Stock: 1/16” - 1/8”.Bottom pattern piece.

Pattern overlap line

Pattern overlap line

Diagram for Attaching Pendulum to Clock Movement

Secure one 1/4” sideof the hanger to thetop front of thePendulum withcontact cement orsuper glue.

2 Pendulum

Hook

Form a hanger by bending a thinpiece of sheet metal 3/8”W x 5/8”Linto the following shape

1

1/4”1/4”

1/8”

Side view of PendulumClock Movement Assembly

Clockmovement

Hook

Pendulum

Front

Insert the remaining1/4” side through

the pendulum hookon the Clock

Movement.

3

Hook

Clockmovement

Front

Pendulum (L)Stock: 1/8”. Top patternpiece.

The Berry Basket © Copyright 2001