collards & carbonara

SKU #2921989

Collards & Carbonara29219892921989

ISBN 1-61628-540-0

9 781616 285401

ISBN 13: 978-1-61628-540-1ISBN 10: 1-61628-540-0

$35.00 US/$40.00 CANwww.weldonowen.com

Inside these pages, Memphis chefs

Andrew Ticer and Michael Hudman

preach a gospel of local ingredients,

southern flavors, and Italian roots

to create a truly original cuisine.

Through 100 recipes, full-color

photographs, and a charming

combination of wit, wisdom, and

reverence for those who have

inspired them, these life-long

friends present a whole new

way to enjoy good food.

The new Italian food map, thanks to Andy and Michael: Alba in the north, Rome in the center, Memphis in the south.

– Alan Richman, GQ magazine

SOUTHERN COOKING

ITALIAN ROOTS

ANDREW TICER + MICHAEL HUDMAN

TICER +

HUDMAN

Full of righteous devotion to their hometown of Memphis, inspired by the cookery of their Italian grandmothers, Andy and Michael have staked out a compelling geography where Tennessee abuts Parma, sformato gets swaddled in neck bone gravy, and collards come perfumed with nduja. To get a handle on what the best American food looks, smells, and tastes like in this post-provincial moment, cook your way through this book.

– John T Edge, series editor Cornbread Nation: The Best of Southern Food Writing

Integrity, sincerity, dedication and honesty are all words that come to mind reading through Andy and Mikey’s first offering. These guys are part of the proud future of American regional food. This book is a must have for anyone interested in smart American interpretation of Italian country fare. Killer stuff in here. Really!

– John Currence, chef and owner, City Grocery, Oxford Mississippi

I knew from the first time that I met Andy and Michael that their passion for food, cooking and family was the most important things in their lives. I am so deeply honored and blessed that I have been able to be a small part of this journey and to see it put into this beautiful book is the best expression of who they are.

– Tien Ho, executive chef, Montmartre, New York

southern cooking

italian roots

andrew ticer + Michael hudMan

with nicholas talarico

Photographs by ed anderson

olive press

f oreword viii

StarterS 7

Salad S & S oup S 3 9

paSta & riS o tt o 5 9

MainS 113

Side S 147

de SSert S 177

taSting Menu 2 0 3

pantry 2 2 9 S ource S 2 3 9 index 240

1

4

7

2

5

8

3

6

9

s t a r t e r s 9

1 contr a ba ndo This is our play on a Pepino, southern style. Fill a cocktail shaker half full of ice. Add 3 tbsp Popcorn Sutton Tennessee White Whiskey, 1 tbsp St. Germain elderflower liqueur, 1 tbsp fresh lime juice, 11∕2 tsp Simple Syrup (page 229), and a pinch of salt. Secure the lid and shake the ingredients together vigorously. Double-strain over ice into a rocks glass. Using a dropper, float enough hibiscus tincture to cover the top of the drink. Garnish with a fresh basil leaf. Note: To make the hibiscus tincture, steep equal parts dried hibiscus and high-alcohol vodka in a dark corner of your cabinet, shaking it every day for 2 weeks.

2 il gato For this drink, we use Cathead Vodka from Jackson, Mississippi. They make a great product and help support the local music scene. Double-strain 1∕3 cup (3 fl oz/80 ml) white sangria into a 1-quart (1-l) soda siphon. Fill a cocktail shaker half full of ice and add 2 tbsp Cathead Honeysuckle Vodka, 4 tsp rhubarb sauce (page 239), 1 tbsp yellow Chartreuse, and 11∕2 tsp fresh orange juice. Secure the lid and shake the ingredients together vigorously. Strain the mixture into a Collins glass over ice. Shoot the sangria from the soda siphon to fill the glass. Garnish with sliced strawberries and an orange slice.Note: To make the sangria, combine 1 bottle (750 ml) dry, fruity white wine, 1∕2 orange, sliced, 1∕2 red apple, diced, 1∕2 bunch fresh thyme, and 2 fresh basil leaves. Cover and let steep overnight in the refrigerator.

3 a |m m a rtini For this take on a dirty martini, we freeze the olive in the ice of its own brine. Fill a cocktail shaker half full with ice and add 1∕4 cup (2 fl oz/60 ml) vodka, preferably Ston, and 11∕2 tsp dry vermouth. Secure the lid and shake the ingredients together vigorously, chipping the ice. Strain the mixture into a martini glass and garnish with 1 olive ice cube. Makes 1 cocktail. Note: To make olive ice cubes, thread olives on toothpicks and place 1 olive in each cavity of an ice cube tray. Fill the cavities with olive brine. Freeze until the cubes are solid, preferably overnight.

4 th at ev ening sun This cocktail got its name from a short story by William Faulkner. The grapefruit garnish mimicks a sun. Put a thin slice of ruby grapefruit in an old-fashioned glass and hold it against the wall of the glass while you fill it with ice. Pour in 4 drops orange bitters, 3 tbsp white rum, preferably Bacardi, and 11∕2 tsp Ginger Syrup (page 229). Stir well, without disturbing the grapefruit.

5 basil l imonata This refreshing take on limeade is perfect on a hot day. Fill a cocktail shaker half full of ice and add 1∕4 cup (2 fl oz/60 ml) fresh lime juice, 3 tbsp vodka, 11∕2 tsp Simple Syrup (page 229), a pinch of salt, and 3 fresh basil leaves. Secure the lid and shake the ingredients together vigorously. Fill a small mason jar with ice. Strain the drink into the mason jar and fill with club soda. Sprinkle a little more salt over the top. Garnish with a basil leaf.

6 old fashioned Of all the cocktails and drinks that Nick worked on with us, this is the one upon which he hangs his hat. Put 1 demerara sugar cube in a old-fashioned glass. Add 2–3 dashes bitters and a small splash of club soda. Muddle the sugar until it completely dissolves into a syrup. Add 1∕4 cup (2 fl oz/60 ml) bourbon, preferably Maker’s Mark, and stir well. Add ice and garnish with an orange twist.

7 friday night lights This is our play on a gin fizz, properly executed. Put 1 impeccably fresh egg white in a cocktail shaker, secure the lid, and shake vigorously. Open the shaker and add ice to fill halfway, 3 tbsp gin, preferably Bombay Sapphire, 1 tbsp apple juice, 11∕2 tsp fresh lemon juice, and 11∕2 tsp Simple Syrup (page 229). Secure the lid and shake the ingredients together vigorously. Pour the mixture into a Collins glass, taking care not to over-strain, to preserve the froth. Garnish with an apple slice.

8 a bright t ime This wintry cocktail came about when Woodson Farm dropped off a case of their Meyer lemons from a sister farm. Fill a cocktail shaker half full of ice and add 2 tbsp blanco tequila, 1 tbsp Cocchi Americano, 11∕2 tsp Bassano Amaro, 11∕2 tsp fresh Meyer lemon juice, and 11∕2 tsp Simple Syrup (page 229). Secure the lid and shake the ingredients together vigorously. Strain the mixture into a coupe glass. Garnish with candied Meyer lemon zest or a fresh Meyer lemon slice.

9 gin & homem a de tonic Our recipe for homemade tonic is the result of much research and practice. Fill an old-fashioned glass with ice cubes. Add 3 tbsp gin, 41∕2 tsp Tonic Syrup (page 229), and 1∕4 cup (2 fl oz/60 ml) club soda. Garnish with a lime slice.

s i g n at u r e C o C k ta i l s Our beverage director Nick has

researched and developed classic and seasonal cocktails for the robust

cocktail program at our restaurants. Here are a few of our favorites.

s t a r t e r s 2 7

w e h av e fixed green tom atoes many different ways: pickled, grilled,

sautéed, and our favorite, fried. We often serve the fried tomatoes with pickled

watermelon rinds, but more recently we accompanied them with a bacon jam

inspired by our good friend Tien Ho, chef at New York’s Montmartre restaurant.

We met Tien while eating at Má Pêche with our pig farmer, Mr. Newman. It was

one of the best meals I’d ever eaten in my life, and afterward, Tien sat down and

walked me through every dish and the thought behind it. It was an extraordinary

experience for me. We like to dredge our tomato slices twice to ensure a nice

thick crust when they are fried. — michael

To make the bacon jam, in a heavy 4-qt (4-l) saucepan, sauté the bacon medium-high

heat until the fat is rendered and the meat is browned, about 5 minutes. Using a

slotted spoon, transfer the bacon to a plate, leaving the fat in the pan. Add the onion

and sauté in the bacon fat until nicely caramelized, 5–7 minutes, watching closely

so the onion does not burn. Drain the fat from the pan. Return the bacon to the

pan, add the vinegar, and stir to scrape up the browned bits on the bottom of the pan.

Add the honey, lime juice, and pepper flakes, if desired, and cook until the mixture

is thickened and heated through, about 1 minute. Taste and season with salt and

pepper. Keep warm.

Check the crab for shell fragments, taking care not to break up the chunks too

much, and put the meat in a bowl. Add the chives, olive oil, and lemon juice and

toss carefully just to coat. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

Put the flour in a shallow dish and season lightly with salt and pepper. Cut the

tomatoes into slices about 1∕2 inch (12 mm) thick (you should have 12 slices) and season

both sides with salt and pepper. Place the sliced tomatoes in a bowl and cover with

the buttermilk. Remove the tomatoes from the buttermilk, season with salt and

pepper, and dredge them in the seasoned flour, shaking off the excess. Repeat the

process, coating the tomatoes again in buttermilk and the flour mixture and set

them aside on a plate.

Pour vegetable oil to a depth of 2 inches (5 cm) into a large, deep cast-iron frying pan

and heat the oil to 350°F (180°C) on a deep-frying thermometer. Line a platter with

paper towels. When the oil is hot, in batches if necessary, carefully slide the coated

tomatoes into the oil and fry until golden brown, about 3 minutes per side. Drain

the tomatoes on the paper towel–lined platter and season with salt and pepper.

To serve, overlap 2 fried tomato slices on each serving plate. Top with a spoonful of

the bacon jam and then with the crab mixture, dividing them evenly. Serve right away.

f ri e d gre e n t o mat o e s, B lu e C raB

& BaCo n Jam

m a kes 6 serv ings

For the bacon jam

1 cup (2 oz/60 g) finely diced bacon

1 cup (5 oz/155 g) finely diced yellow onion

1⁄4 cup (2 fl oz/60 ml) balsamic vinegar

2 tablespoons honey

Juice of 1 lime

2 tablespoons red pepper flakes (optional)

Kosher salt and freshly ground pepper

1 lb (500 g) jumbo lump blue crabmeat, the best stuff you can find

1⁄4 cup (1⁄3 oz/10 g) thinly sliced fresh chives

2 tablespoons olive oil

Juice of 1 lemon


3 cups (15 oz/465 g) 00 flour

3 firm green tomatoes

2 cups (16 fl oz/500 ml) buttermilk (we use the good stuff from

Cruze Dairy Farm in Knoxville, TN)

Vegetable oil for frying

s t a r t e r s3 4

one day in mid -fa ll , we had a party scheduled for the restaurant and

we needed to come up with a passed appetizer for the event. For some reason,

nothing really excited us, and then the Woodson Ridge Farm delivery truck

pulled into our driveway. Leslie had some incredible-looking beets that day that

sparked an idea. We wrapped the beets in aluminum foil and laid them right

on the embers of the pizza oven to roast. When they were tender, we cut them

into pieces and poured some of our house pickling liquid over them. We wanted

something nice and bright to go with them, so we combined some yogurt, ricotta,

chopped fresh herbs, and citrus juice into a thick spread. — michael

Preheat the oven to 400°F (200°C).

Place the beets in a roasting pan and cover with aluminum foil. Roast until tender

when tested with a knife tip, about 45 minutes. Set the beets aside until cool enough

to handle, then remove the skins and quarter. Put the beet quarters in a mason jar

or nonreactive bowl.

In a saucepan, combine the vinegar, 1∕2 cup (4 fl oz/125 ml) water, the sugar, coriander

seeds, peppercorns, mustard seeds, onion, bay leaves, tarragon, and thyme and bring

to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to medium-low and simmer for 10 minutes.

Taste the liquid for flavor balance, but be careful not to take a deep breath because

it will make you cough. Strain the pickling liquid and allow to cool to room

temperature. Pour the liquid over the beets, cover, and refrigerate overnight.

To make the tarragon yogurt, blanch the tarragon and mint in a saucepan of boiling

salted water to brighten their color, about 10 seconds. Plunge them into ice water

to lock in the color. Drain the herbs and squeeze out any excess water. Roughly chop

the herbs and put them in a blender with the lime juice, orange juice, and ice cubes.

Blend on high speed until liquefied, about 3 minutes. Do not let the mixture get hot,

or it will turn dark green. Pour the purée into a bowl and stir in the yogurt and ricotta.

Season to taste with salt.

To serve, remove the beets from the pickling liquid and cut them into smaller pieces,

if you like. Arrange the crostini on a platter and spread each one with the tarragon-

yogurt mixture. Top with the beets and garnish with Gorzonzola. Serve right away.

p i C k le d B e e t C ros t i n i w i t H

tarrago n & go rg o n z o la

m a kes 8 serv ings

For the pickled beets

3⁄4 lb (375 g) beets, any color (2 or 3 medium beets)

1 cup (8 fl oz/250 ml) champagne vinegar

3⁄4 cup (6 oz/185 g) sugar

2 tablespoons coriander seeds

1 tablespoon peppercorns

1 teaspoon yellow mustard seeds

1⁄4 yellow onion, minced

2 bay leaves

1 bunch each fresh tarragon and thyme

For the tarragon yogurt

Scant 1 cup (1 oz/30 g) fresh tarragon leaves

1⁄2 cup (1⁄2 oz/15 g) fresh mint leaves

Juice of 1 lime and 1 orange

3 or 4 ice cubes

1 cup (8 oz/250 g) plain Greek yogurt

1⁄2 cup (4 oz/125 g) good-quality fresh ricotta cheese

Kosher salt

Crostini (page 236)

Crumbled Gorgonzola cheese or trout roe for garnish

p a s t a & r i s o t t o 6 5

s p i naC h-ri Co t ta gn u d i W i t h mar i nara &

ri Co t ta salata

m a kes 4 serv ings

For the spinach-ricotta gnudi

1 lb (500 g) stemmed spinach

3⁄4 cup (6 oz/185 g) good quality, fresh ricotta cheese

3 large egg yolks

3⁄4 cup (3 oz/90 g) freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese

Finely grated zest of 1 lemon

1 cup (5 oz/155 g) 00 flour, plus more for dusting

2 cups (16 fl oz/500 ml) Marinara Sauce (page 234), or more to taste


Grated ricotta salata for serving

Extra-virgin olive oil for drizzling

1 lemon

gnudi , l iter a lly “na ked” (th at is , a filling w ith no pasta) ,

are ricotta-based dumplings. One of my favorite vegetarian dishes, this marriage

of plump-but-light dumplings in a light tomato sauce has been on the AMIK

menu since our opening. The lemon zest, tomato, and spinach play off one

another really well. — andy

Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil, add the spinach, and blanch until the color

brightens, about 15 seconds. Plunge the spinach into ice water to lock in the color.

Drain the spinach, squeeze out any excess water, then finely chop in a food processor.

In a large bowl, combine the chopped spinach, ricotta, egg yolks, Parmigiano-

Reggiano, and lemon zest and mix well. Add the flour and mix with a fork just until

the dough comes together (the key to great gnudi is to use as little flour as possible,

just enough to hold the mixture together). The dough will be sticky.

There are two options for forming gnudi: The easy way is to pinch off 1-inch (2.5-cm)

pieces of the dough and form them into balls. If you want more consistently shaped

gnudi, like we make at the restaurant, use a pastry bag fitted with a 1-inch (2.5-cm)

plain tip. Using a spatula, transfer the dough to the pastry bag. Generously flour a

work surface and pipe the dough onto the surface in long logs. Using a bench scraper,

cut the dough into 1-inch (2.5-cm) pieces.

Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. When the water boils, drop in the gnudi.

Watch to see when the gnudi float to the surface of the water, then cook for another

2 minutes. Meanwhile, in a large sauté pan, warm the marinara until it simmers.

When the gnudi are ready, using a slotted spoon, lift them out of the water and add

them to the sauce. Lightly toss the gnudi in the sauce, taking care not to break the

delicate dumplings. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

Divide the gnudi and sauce among warmed wide, shallow bowls. Sprinkle with ricotta

salata and drizzle with a few drops of olive oil. Using a Microplane grater, swipe the

lemon twice across the grater over each bowl. Serve right away.

7 8

o n Fa m i ly & F o o d When we met, in elementary school, we soon discovered that we both came

from big Italian families. We also had in common that all of our family celebrations revolve around food.

Good food comes from something deep, and for us, our families provided the roots for our inspiration.

michael I think about Maw Maw every day. I wonder what

she would think about our restaurant, what she would think

about how I manage people. I wonder if she would be proud of

me. I wish she could eat one meal here.

She was the matriarch of our family, and everyone had to go

through her before making any major decisions. Because she

lived in my parents’ house when I was growing up, I had

constant access to Maw Maw. I never imagined that even

round-the-clock contact would not be enough time, but it

wasn’t. I guess it never is with family.

Maw Maw preached family. She would ask her grandkids if

they kissed this person good-bye, or if they spoke to so and so.

Maw Maw made every one of her ten grandchildren feel

important, and if you ask any of them today if they were her

favorite, they will all say yes. But I know I was, and I get to put

it in print. We had a special bond.

My life with Maw Maw revolved around the Memphis Tigers

basketball team and food. Whenever someone asks me to name

the moment when I realized that I wanted to be a chef, I answer

that there was no single moment. A whole childhood of

memories of Maw Maw, of cooking with her, was her gift to me.

For example, in the summertime, she would gather all of her

girlfriends around the kitchen table and they would make pasta

for their families. She ran the pasta machine, so she was the

boss: firm but loving, funny but serious. As they worked, they

would gossip about whoever was not there that day.

I would run up to the table and steal some of the filling for

ravioli, which always made Maw Maw laugh.

On Fridays, I would tag along with Maw Maw and Aunt Sarah

on their visit to the beauty shop, where Maw Maw would spend

hours getting her hair done. After that, we’d go to the market,

where I learned that half a shopping bag of greens is enough for

only two people. Then it was home to cook supper.

Her food was about the family and the meal. Her saffron

risotto with chicken gizzards is the flavor of my youth, and

because she loved cooking with my brother, Richard, and me,

she would invite us into the kitchen to make doughnuts out

of biscuit dough. When Maw Maw published her cookbook,

Maw Maw’s Recipes, my mom, my dad, Richard, and I stayed

up late binding it for her. We’d do anything for her.

When we would go on family vacations to Destin, Florida, all

of her grandkids would stay in the room with her to play

bourré, rather than go drink on the beach. She always let us

win and would never say anything when we looked under the

glass table at her cards. She was happy to be with us. We all

came to her with every problem we had, no matter how

serious. She always knew how to help.

I remember when Maw Maw was sick. She had a heart attack

and the family rushed her to the hospital. When I arrived,

she asked to see me. She could not talk because of the all the

tubes but she saw me. I lost it. I had never seen her, my rock,

look weak. She was the one who could lift a car if she had to.

I remember two or three days into the hospital stay, Andy and

my cousin Peter took me to a basketball game to take my mind

off of what was going on. The next day, I went home to go

to bed. My mom woke me up by rubbing my back, and I knew

the worst had happened. I buried my head in my pillow and

cried. I loved Maw Maw, and now that she is gone, I cannot

help but see how much of an influence she was on who I am

today. In tribute, I’ve given both of my children her name.

I believe restaurants are like families. We fight, we laugh, we

learn, we celebrate, we have one another’s back, and we grow

together. Maw Maw is my symbol of family and my parents

hammered the importance of a family home. At the restaurant,

Maw Maw’s picture has watched over us from the very first

day, always there to bring us back.

m a i n s1 1 4

sometimes a picture w ill inspire us . In A16 Food + Wine by

Nate Appleman and Shelly Lindgren, there is a great photograph of a perfectly

blistered olive-and-marinara pizza being drizzled with chile oil. That pizza

has always looked beautiful to us, so when we opened Hog & Hominy, we put

a pizza on the menu that we imagined would taste like the one in the photo.

But we never dreamed that we would work with Ed Anderson, the photographer

who took that picture. As a tribute to him and to the amazing work he has done

on this cookbook, we changed the name of this pizza from its original Lil’ Red

Hot Pizza to the Lil’ Red Ed Pizza. To give it its bold flavor, we marinate our olives

in citrus juice, we roast and pickle the peppers we get from Woodson Ridge Farms,

and we make our own speck. — andy

To make the pickled peppers, roast the peppers directly over a gas flame or on a hot

grill, turning them occasionally with tongs, until blackened all over. Put the peppers

in a bowl, cover with plastic wrap, and let stand for a few minutes to steam and cool.

When the peppers are cool enough to handle, scrape off the skin with a knife and

remove the stem, seeds, and ribs. Cut the peppers into bite-size pieces and put them

in a nonreactive bowl. Pour the pickling brine over the top, cover with plastic wrap,

and refrigerate for at least 6 hours or up to overnight before using.

To make the kalamata olive salad, in a bowl, combine the olives, vinegar, oil, oregano

leaves, lemon zest, and red pepper flakes. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

To assemble the pizza, prepare a very hot fire for direct-heat cooking in a charcoal

grill; you’re aiming for at least 500°F (260°C).

Put a pizza stone on the hottest part of the grill and let it heat for at least 10 minutes.

Put the pizza dough on a lightly floured work surface. Flatten the dough and stretch

it, using your hands and gravity, into a 10- to 12-inch (25- to 30-cm) round. Transfer the

dough round to a pizza peel lightly dusted with flour.

Swirl the tomato sauce evenly over the dough round. Arrange the speck over the sauce,

followed by about 1∕4 cup (1 1∕2 oz/45 g) of the pickled peppers (reserve the remaining

peppers for another use), then top with the fontina. Slide the pizza off the peel onto

the pizza stone, close the grill cover, and cook until the toppings are bubbling and

the crust is well browned, 6–10 minutes, using the pizza peel to rotate the pizza

3 times as it cooks.

Using the pizza peel, remove the pizza from the grill and slide it onto a cutting board.

Sprinkle with the olive salad and Parmigiano-Reggiano. Cut the pizza into wedges

and serve right away.

Li L’ Re d e d P i z za

m a kes 2 serv ings

For the pickled peppers

1 lb (500 g) assorted sweet and hot peppers such as bell peppers, serrano chiles, Anaheim chiles,

and Italian sweet peppers

2 cups (16 fl oz/500 ml) Pickling Brine, (page 238)

For the kalamata olive salad

1⁄2 cup (21⁄2 oz/75 g) pitted Kalamata olives

1⁄4 cup (2 fl oz/60 ml) sherry vinegar

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

Leaves from 1 sprig fresh oregano

Finely grated zest of 1⁄2 lemon

Pinch of red pepper flakes


Pizza Dough (page 238)

1⁄4 cup (2 fl oz/60 ml) Tomato Sauce (page 233)

11⁄2 oz (45 g) speck or country ham (preferably Benton’s), diced

2 oz (60 g) fontina cheese, torn into pieces

Freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese

m a i n s1 4 2

working w ith the dorper l a mb raised by Newman Farm is a pleasure.

The meat is lean and sweet, making it appealing even to people who say they

find the taste of lamb too strong. We like to have at least one braised dish on our

menu in the fall, and often two dishes in the winter, and these shanks are a good

example. Plus, when it’s cold outdoors, one-pot cooking is what it’s all about.

You can build deep flavors with these braises, if you follow a few rules: Be sure

to brown the meat well, use an awesome stock for the braising liquid, and cook

low and slow until the meat just falls off the bone. If you like, serve this dish

with your favorite green vegetable, such as steamed or sautéed broccoli. — andy


Season the lamb shanks all over with salt and pepper. Warm a large Dutch oven

over high heat and add the olive oil. Add the lamb shanks and cook until golden

brown on all sides, about 5 minutes per side. Transfer the shanks to a plate. Add

the celery, onion, and carrot to the pot along with the tomato paste and sauté

until the vegetables are lightly browned, about 10 minutes. Stir in the wine and

cook until it is nearly evaporated.

Return the lamb shanks to the pan along with the garlic, thyme, parsley, rosemary,

bay leaves, peppercorns, olives, and tomatoes with their juice. Add the stock; it should

almost cover the meat. Cover the pot, transfer the pot to the oven, and braise until

the lamb is fork tender, about 3 hours. After 1 1∕2 hours, uncover the pot and rotate

it 180 degrees to ensure even cooking.

Remove the lamb shanks from the pot and set aside. Remove and discard the herbs,

bay leaves, and garlic head. Carefully transfer half of the braising liquid to a blender

and purée until smooth. Pour the puréed mixture back into the pot, return the

lamb shanks, and warm through.

To serve, divide the polenta among warmed individual plates and top with the

lamb shanks. Divide the braising liquid among the plates and serve right away.

b Rai s e d Lam b s han ks

m a kes 4 serv ings

4 lamb shanks, 8–10 oz (250–315 g) each


1⁄2 cup (4 fl oz/125 ml) olive oil

3 stalks celery, chopped

1 yellow onion, chopped

1 carrot, chopped

2 tablespoons tomato paste

2 cups (16 fl oz/500 ml) dry red wine

1 head garlic, cut in half crosswise

1 bunch fresh thyme

1 bunch fresh flat-leaf parsley

2 sprigs fresh rosemary

2 dried bay leaves

1 tablespoon peppercorns

1 cup (5 oz/155 g) pitted Kalamata olives

1 can (1 lb/500 g) whole tomatoes

4 cups (32 fl oz/1 l) Lamb Stock (page 231)

Polenta (page 172) for serving

s i d e s1 6 8

i rea lly lov e potatoes . When cooked right, they can be as tasty as almost

any other ingredient in the kitchen. Our weekly delivery of Berkshire pigs from

Newman Farm means that we always have plenty of lard on hand. To help us

use up the surplus, we cook potatoes in the lard, let them cool, and then roast

them in a cast-iron frying pan with rosemary and Parmigiano-Reggiano. The

main objective during the second stage of cooking is to crisp up the cheese until

it almost, but not quite, burns. — michael


Cut the potatoes into wedges 1∕4-inch (6-mm) wide. Arrange the wedges in a large

baking dish and season lightly with salt and pepper. Add the rosemary and thyme

sprigs to the dish. Pour in enough lard to cover the potatoes. Bake until the potatoes

are slightly tender, 1–1 1∕2 hours. A knife inserted into a wedge should meet light

resistance. Using a slotted spoon, remove the potatoes from the lard and set aside.

Discard the herb sprigs.

Warm a frying pan over medium-high heat and add the olive oil and butter. When

the butter begins to foam, add the potatoes and cook, turning once, until nicely

browned, about 2 minutes per side. Remove the pan from the heat, sprinkle the

potatoes with the chopped rosemary and the Parmigiano-Reggiano, and toss

to combine. Return the frying pan to medium-high heat and cook until the cheese

starts to brown and become crisp. Serve right away.

ro s e mary-Parm e san Po tat o e s

m a kes 4 serv ings

1 lb (500 g) red potatoes


2 sprigs fresh rosemary, plus 1 tablespoon finely chopped

1 sprig fresh thyme

Melted lard to cover

3 tablespoons olive oil

2 tablespoons unsalted butter

1⁄4 cup (1 oz/30 g) freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese

s i d e s 1 7 5

our close friend kelly english, chef and owner of Restaurant Iris

here in Memphis, has originated an amazing preparation for brussels sprouts.

He cooks them with sherry vinegar and bacon, and it is one of our favorite ways

to enjoy the vegetable. Inspired by Kelly’s spirit of innovation, we came up with

a different take on brussels sprouts but one that is just as tasty. It features our

house-made tomato conserva and bacon-chile jam. — andy

In a frying pan, sauté the bacon over medium heat until the fat is rendered,

2–4 minutes. Remove the bacon from the pan. Spoon off and reserve most

of the bacon fat, leaving just a film in the pan. Raise the heat to medium-high.

Add the onion and sauté until translucent, about 5 minutes. Add the sugar and

sauté until the onion is well browned, 4–5 minutes. If the mixture seems dry,

add more bacon fat as needed.

Return the bacon to the pan along with both Calabrian peppers and stir well.

Add the vinegar and lime juice and sauté just until warmed through and

the mixture is smooth. Stir in the mint, if using, and set aside.

Pour the vegetable oil into a deep fryer to the fill line, or pour the oil to a depth

of 3 inches (7.5 cm) into a tall-sided saucepan. Heat the oil to 350°F (180°C) on

a deep-frying thermometer.

While the oil is heating, separate the leaves from the brussels sprouts and set

aside. Cut the brussels sprout cores into quarters.

In batches if necessary, fry the brussels sprout leaves until well browned and crisp,

about 30 seconds. Transfer to a paper towel to drain. Fry the brussel sprout cores

in the same manner until nicely dark brown, about 1 minute.

Remove the mint, if using, from the bacon-chile jam. In a bowl, combine the brussels

sprout leaves and cores, 1∕2 cup (4 fl oz/125 ml) of the bacon-chile jam (reserve the rest

for another use), the tomato conserva, speck, and a pinch of salt and toss until mixed.

Transfer to a serving bowl and serve right away.

B ru ss e ls s P ro u t s w i t h

s P e C k , t o mat o & BaCo n-C h i le jam

m a kes 4 serv ings

For the bacon-chile jam

4 slices bacon, preferably Benton’s, finely diced

1⁄2 yellow onion, diced

1 tablespoon sugar

2 teaspoons ground sweet Calabrian pepper

1⁄2 teaspoon ground hot Calabrian pepper

2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar

Juice of 1 lime

1⁄2 bunch fresh mint (optional)

Vegetable oil for deep-frying

1 lb (500 g) brussels sprouts, ends trimmed

1⁄2 cup (4 fl oz/125 ml) Tomato Conserva (page 235)

4 oz (125 g) speck or prosciutto, diced

Kosher salt

d e s s e r t s1 9 8

w e lov e a tr a ditiona l a pple pie . Every year in late summer and

fall, we eat so much apple pie that we had might as well consider it our

daily fruit intake. For our version of this iconic fruit dessert, we switch up

the American tradition a bit: We use half apples and half pears. — michael

To make the crust, in a food processor, combine the flour, confectioners’ sugar, and

salt and pulse a couple of times to mix. Add the butter and pulse a few more times

until the butter pieces are the size of small peas. Pour the mixture into a bowl.

Add 6 tablespoons ice water and mix with a fork just until the dough comes

together in a rough ball. Add more water if the dough seems dry. Transfer the

dough to a floured work surface and shape it into a disk. Wrap well in plastic wrap

and refrigerate for at least 2 hours or up to overnight.

To make the filling, in a bowl, combine both types of apples, the pears, brown sugar,

flour, orange juice, lemon juice, cinnamon, nutmeg, and salt. Mix well and let stand

for about 10 minutes to release the juices from the fruit.


Divide the dough into 2 portions and shape one into a disk and one into a rough

square. Put the dough disk on a lightly floured work surface and roll out into a round

about 1∕4 inch (6 mm) thick. Carefully ease the dough round into a 8-inch (20-cm) pie

pan, letting the excess dough hang over the edges. Using a fork, prick the dough in

several places to help it bake evenly.

Put the dough rectangle on a lightly floured work surface and roll out into a rough

10-inch (25-cm) square. Using a pizza wheel or paring knife, cut 6–8 strips from the

dough, each about 1 inch (2.5 cm) wide.

Pour the filling into the pie crust and dot it with the butter.

Starting 1 inch (2.5 cm) from the edge of the pie pan, lay 3 or 4 strips about 1 inch apart

over the filling. Fold back every other dough strip halfway over itself. Place a strip

at a sharp angle across the unfolded strips, then return the folded strips to their

flat position. Fold back the remaining 2 or 3 strips, place a dough strip about 1 inch

away from the first one, and refurn the folded strips to their flat position. Repeat

to complete the lattice. Trim and flute the edges even with the pan rim.

Brush the lattice strips with egg wash and sprinkle the strips with granulated sugar.

Bake the pie until the edges of the crust begin to brown, about 15 minutes. Reduce

the heat to 350°F (180°C) and continue to bake until the crust is lightly browned,

the fruit filling is bubbling, and the apples are tender when tested with the tip

of a paring knife, 40–45 minutes. Transfer to a wire rack and let cool completely.

Cut into wedges to serve.

ap p le-p ear p i e

m a kes 8 serv ings

For the crust

3 cups (15 oz/465 g) all-purpose flour

1⁄4 cup (1 oz/30 g) confectioner’s sugar

1 teaspoon kosher salt

1 cup (8 oz/250 g) unsalted butter, cut into pieces

6–8 tablespoons (3–4 fl oz/90–125 ml) ice water

For the filling

2 Granny Smith apples, peeled, cored, and thinly sliced

2 Honeycrisp apples, peeled, cored, and thinly sliced

2 Bartlett pears, peeled, cored, and thinly sliced

1 cup (7 oz/220 g) firmly packed light brown sugar

1⁄4 cup (11⁄2 oz/45 g) all-purpose flour

Juice of 1 orange

Juice of 1 lemon

1⁄4 teaspoon ground cinnamon

5 grates fresh nutmeg

Pinch of kosher salt

2 tablespoons unsalted butter, cut into small pieces

1 egg whisked with 1 egg yolk to use as an egg wash

Granulated sugar for sprinkling

T a s T i n g m e n u2 1 2

food ca n be memor a ble . Each bite of this dish brings back memories

from our childhoods. Both of us always looked forward to breakfast for dinner

when we were kids. When we got older and tried to sneak in late at night after

an evening of carousing, our moms would be waiting and they’d cook us

breakfast. When we were putting together our Breakfast-for-Dinner tasting

menu, we created this dish. From the first time we ate it, there was an instant

connection to some of our happiest boyhood memories. — andy & michael

To prepare the pork, preheat the oven to 500°F (260°C). Place a rack in a roasting pan.

Remove the pork skin and set aside. Season the pork belly with a light coating of the

rub mixture and put it on the rack in the roasting pan. Roast the pork belly until it

is well browned, 45–60 minutes. Reduce the oven heat to 225°F (110°C) and continue

to cook until the pork is fork tender, 1–1 1∕2 hours. Remove from the oven and let

cool to room temperature. Wrap the belly with plastic wrap and refrigerate overnight.

To make the fried pork rinds, put the reserved pork skin in a heavy saucepan and

add water to cover. Bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to medium-low

and simmer until the skin is tender when pierced with a knife, 1 1∕2–2 hours; you

don’t want it to become too soft. Drain the pork skin, discarding the liquid, and let

stand until cool enough to handle. While the pork skin is still warm, use a sturdy

metal spoon to scrape off and discard all of the fat on the underside, so that you

are left with only skin. Cut the pork skin into 1-inch (2.5-cm) squares.

Lay the pork skin on a food dehydrator tray or baking sheet. Place the tray in a food

dehydrator set at the highest setting (around 180°F/82°C) or in an oven set at the lowest

setting (around 175°F/80°C), until they are extremely dry and crisp, about 24 hours.

To prepare the eggs, preheat a thermal immersion circulator in a circulating water bath

to 145°F (63°C). Carefully place the whole eggs in the water bath and cook for 1 hour.

(If you do not have a circulator, you can poach the eggs in water just before serving.)

About 25 minutes before you plan to serve the dish, make the polenta as directed.

Pour vegetable oil into a deep fryer to the fill line, or pour the oil to a depth of

2 inches (5 cm) into a tall-sided saucepan. Heat the oil to 375°F (190°C) on a deep-frying

thermometer. Drop the dried pork skin squares into the hot oil and fry until puffed

and crisp, about 2 minutes. Transfer to paper towels to drain briefly, then season with

salt and the rub mixture.

To serve, cut the pork belly crosswise into 4 pieces. Warm a nonstick frying pan over

medium-high heat. When the pan is hot, add the pork belly pieces and sear until

warmed through, about 2 minutes per side. Divide the polenta among warmed plates.

Carefully crack an egg onto the mound of polenta on each plate and sprinkle with

pepper. Arrange the pork belly and the pork rinds on the plate and serve right away.

a|M b reak fas t: 63-d e gre e e gg,

po rk b e l ly, po rk ri n ds, po l e n ta

m a kes 6 serv ings

1 lb (500 g) pork belly with skin

About 1⁄4 cup (2 oz/60 g) Pork Belly Rub (page 229)

6 large eggs

Polenta (page 172)


Vegetable oil for deep-frying

collards & carbonara

Documents