composting - university of maryland · what is the stuff? brown stuff is dead, dried plant parts...
TRANSCRIPT
Composting
Montgomery County
Master Gardeners
Amanda Laudwein
February 5, 2010
Things You Need to Know…
Questions We Hope to Answer:
What is compost and composting?
Why should I compost?
How is it made?
Is it hard to do or can I make
it myself?
What do I do with it?
What is Compost?
Decayed plant matter.
What is Composting?
The conversion of organic
matter into compost.
What is Humus?US EPA says
“Mature compost is a stable
material with a content called
humus that is dark brown or
black and has a soil-like,
earthy smell.”
Another definition:
A soft, rich substance on
the forest floor that is a
dark and relatively stable
residue resulting from the
decomposition of organic
material.…i.e. Compost!
How DOES it happen in nature?
In the forest:
– leaves and twigs fall from trees
– animals drop their wastes or die.
Meanwhile:
soil organisms decompose these organic
materials Bacteria
Termites
Worms
…into humus!
Why Compost?
It decreases the amount of green waste that enters landfills. 23-30% of the waste stream is yard and kitchen waste in the US
Provides a product that can be used to improve soil tilth.
Can provide a natural source of plant nutrients.
Free fertilizer!
From the US Environmental Protection Agency:
Did You Know That Compost Can...
Suppress plant diseases and pests.
Reduce or eliminate the need for chemical
fertilizers.
Promote higher yields of agricultural crops.
Facilitate reforestation, wetlands restoration,
and habitat revitalization efforts by amending
contaminated, compacted, and marginal soils.
Cost-effectively remediate soils contaminated
by hazardous waste.
How does it happen in
your back yard?
This is the little bit of science part!
Compost…
two ways to achieve it:
AEROBIC (with oxygen) decomposition of plant materials.
ANAEROBIC (without oxygen)
decomposition of plant
materials.
AEROBIC Composting
From the Greek word meaning AIR
Living organisms, which use oxygen, feed upon the organic matter.
When some of the organisms die, their stored nitrogen and carbon becomes available to other organisms.
AEROBIC Composting…
Generates a lot of heat while converting the
carbon and nitrogen inside the pile and
reducing the volume.
– Increased temperatures in the compost kills
many pathogens and weed seeds but not all.
ANAEROBIC Composting
(without oxygen)
Occurs in nature only where oxygen is not
available
And it stinks!
Caused by the hydrogen sulfide from the
decaying organic matter which contains
sulfur (smells like rotten eggs).
Starting a Compost
Aerobic or Anaerobic
First decide which type you want to do…
ANAEROBIC Composting
(Easy, easy, easy)
Have you ever come across this form of
composting? Grass clippings in a sealed garbage bag.
(Slow, slow, slow)
But the results are worth it!
Garbage bag composting…
one of the easiest…but slow!
What you need:
Black plastic garbage bag
– The bags should be 30 to 40 gallon in size and
at least 3 ml. in thickness. This size bag should
hold approximately 3 bushels of organic
materials.
…then add:
Grass clippings
One shovel full of soil
A little water
A handful of high
nitrogen fertilizer
A little lime
Close tightly.
Give the bag a shake.
Leave for 6 - 12 months.
Bags can be
concealed behind
shrubs.
But you CAN:
Periodically FLIP the bag over to redistribute the contents and incorporate a bit of air to speed things up a bit.
For best decomposition…
Set bags in a sunny spot where they can
absorb heat
In the winter, move bags to a heated garage
or basement
And remember…
Patience is a virtue!
AEROBIC Composting
What materials do I need?
What does compost need?
What can I compost?
What should NOT be composted?
What materials do I need? Compost Bins or Piles
– Can be simple homemade bins made out of
fence or wire.
– Garbage cans with holes punched through the
sides.
Compost Bins or Piles
– Wood or wood pallets
(not pressure treated)
– Purchased systems
Compost Bins or Piles
– Compost bins are even available from the county
Think compost
bins are ugly?
Check these out!
Compost Bins or Piles
– A multiple bin system allows for continual
addition of new material.
Compost Bins or Piles
– Piles can also be used ( some municipalities
require bins or structures)
Compost Bins or Piles
– Size can be a benefit.
– A pile three feet wide
and three feet deep
composts well.
– Make the pile size
something you can work
with and turn as needed.
– If you don’t want to turn
it, composting will still
happen, just more
slowly!
These are a bit large…
unless you have
a front-end loader!
Setting Up A Bin or Pile
First select a spot to set up your bin. It
should be out of the way but convenient to
reach with plenty of room to work around.
Setting Up A Bin or Pile
It is also a good idea to choose a location
near to a source of water.
And don’t forget a
shovel or pitch fork
for turning the pile!
A thermometer is
also useful
The Recipe
Brown stuff
Green stuff
Water
Air
What does compost need?Pretty much the same stuff as in the
ANAEROBIC Composting system…
Brown stuff
Green stuff
Water
Air… but
more of it
And a bit of
exercise!
Composting…
is like a Layer Cake It is easiest to build a compost bin in layers
of ingredients like a cake:
– Start with the
BROWN STUFF
– Add a thinner layer of
GREEN STUFF
– Add WATER.
– AIR is already there!
Particle Size has
an Impact
Grind leaves with the
lawn mower or grinder
Aeration is Important
Small particle
size speeds the
process but …
Coarse material
makes sure
oxygen can move
through the pile.
You need both!
What is the Stuff?
Brown stuff is dead, dried plant parts like leaves and pine needles. – Brown stuff is high in the element carbon.
Green stuff is fresh, living parts like grass clippings, kitchen vegetable scraps, weeds and other plants.– Green stuff is high in the element nitrogen.
Water that either nature or YOU provide.
Air that nature provides but YOU keep available.
The Brown Stuff and
The Green Stuff –
Your Carbon and Nitrogen Sources
The carbon-nitrogen ratio:
– The closer you keep to a 30:1 carbon:nitrogen ratio the
faster it will compost
More of this than this
HOWEVER
Any ratio will eventually fully
compost given enough time!
Some Common Carbon Sources
Dried leaves
Pine needles
Newspaper
Sawdust
Some Common Nitrogen Sources
Food Scraps
(no meat or dairy)
Grass clippings
Coffee grounds
Horse manure
(manure only -
no bedding)
Water Each layer gets a good
sprinkling of water to wet
the ingredients. It is
important to wet each
layer as you build it.
Later on
RAINFALLwill help out –
or your hose
will again!
Air
Repeat each of the
layers until the bin is
full and then.....
Do not pack it down!
HINT:
Don’t spend a lot of time trying to balance
the pile, it will balance itself.
(…OR SO)
Things NOT to Add:
Meat, milk products
– because pets and
other animals may
try to dig them up
out of your compost
bin.
Things NOT to Add:
Diseased garden plants.
Things NOT to Add:
Noxious weeds with seeds
or stolens.
Some More Things NOT to Add:
Cooking oils and grease
Bones
Cat manure
Dog manure
What Happens Next
At first organisms
which live at
temperatures
between 50o F and
115o F go to work.
Then...
As the temperature increases
these organisms die and become
food for other organisms that
thrive in warmer temperatures.
These organisms will work
between 120o
and 160o
F.
Oxidation takes place much
faster with this group of
organisms.
Later As the compost cools down, you
may see larger organisms
Compost is teeming
with living things!
Compost "Critters"
The
Compost
Cycle of
Life
Why Temperature and WATER
are Important!
Temperatures between 120o F and 160
oF kills
weed seeds and many pathogens, so...
The compost pile should heat
for one to five days, but not longer.
If temperatures get too high or moisture levels
drop too low, combustion may occur.
Turning the Pile is Important
If it smells,
turn it!
Turning the Pile
Turn the pile regularly, at least once per week.
How long does it take?
Until all the material is consumed.
How to tell when it’s done:
When it’s cool!
Still too hot! Just right!
From Maryland Department of the Environment’s website:
PROBLEMS SOLUTIONS
Odor
– Turn more frequently, add Browns if necessary
Pile too wet
– Turn more frequently, add Browns if necessary
Pile does not get hot
– Pile too small, Organics not degrading. Check
moisture, turn more frequently, add Greens,
fresh manure, blood meal or urea
PROBLEMS SOLUTIONS
Rodents
– Remove and stop adding food scraps, turn
more frequently and keep moist
Pets
– Bury food scraps under one foot of material and
put pallet on top as lid
Insects
– Keep moist and turn more frequently
Use the New Compost
The compost can be added to your garden.
Typical Compost Application Rates New grass establishment
– 1 - 2 inches
Lawn maintenance– 1/8 – ½ inch
Planting bed preparation– 1 - 2 inches
Planting trees– Mix 1/3 compost into backfill soil.
Mulching around trees and shrubs– 1 – 3 inches Apply out to drip line.
Why Use Compost?
Increases moisture holding capacity of a soil.
While not high in the essential nutrients
(N,P and K), it adds organic matter to the
soil increasing the soil’s ability to retain
those nutrients in a form available to plants.
May contain important micronutrients.
May suppress some diseases like crown gall
in grapes and roses.
But Remember...
Try not to use unfinished compost material
And...
Compost is an
important part of
gardening and
waste reduction.
Use it and enjoy
the benefits.
Things You Needed to Know…
Questions We Hope We Answered: What is compost and composting?
– A stable material that is dark brown or black and
smells earthy like soil
Why should I compost?
– Waste reduction
– Really good for my garden
How is it made?
– Little beasties eat it and die, other beasties eat
them and die and so on until everything they eat
is gone and it is ready for you to use in your
garden!
Things You Needed to Know…
Questions We Hope We Answered:
Is it hard to do or can I make it myself?
NOPE! And YEP!
– Pile it
– Turn it
– Wait a bit
What do I do with it?
– Use it!
Bonus!
Another recipe…
(not this kind!)
Compost Tea
Put finished compost in a burlap bag.
Soak the bag in a trash can filled with water.
Let soak for several days, stirring occasionally.
Dip out the “tea” colored liquid, which will initially be high in microbes and use to water your plants.
Some Web Resources:
University of Maryland Extension Home and
Garden Information Center http://hgic.umd.edu/content/onlinepublications.cfm
US Environmental Protection Service http://www.epa.gov/epawaste/conserve/rrr/compos
ting/index.htm
Maryland Department of the Environment http://www.mde.state.md.us/programs/landprogra
ms/recycling/education/compostinfo.asp
Questions
Contact Information
• Hotline: 301-590-9650
• Monday - Friday,
9 am -1 pm
(March -October)
• Monday-Wednesday,
10 am - 1 pm
(November -February)
• Web: http://montgomery.umd.edu/
• Hotline: 800-342-2507
• Monday - Friday, 8 a.m. - 1 p.m.
• Web: http://www.hgic.umd.edu/
Web: http://www.growit.umd.edu/
This program was brought to you by
Maryland Master Garden Program
Montgomery County
University of Maryland Extension
78
College of
Agriculture and Natural Resources