conde nast traveler usa - july 2013
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welcome visitors. There were no lines, no traffic, no
hustle , and you could park anywhere."Once they built the highways between Toulouse
and Bordeaux, Toulouse and Biarritz, no one had
reason to stop here," Daguin, who grew up in the
town of Auch, smack in the heart of Gascony, hadtold me. "So tourism has deserted Gascony."
"WHAT COMES FIRST when you barbecue the
spareribs?" Kate asked me as we barreled betweenpastures toward Chapolard' s farm in Mezin. "Not
the meat. It's the seeds." Theseeds that were everywhere around us. The grains that Chapolard and hisbrother grow on the ir farm, a colorful, diverse mix
of corn, wheat, barley, oats, sunflower seeds, and
feverole to feed the animals they breed. We bumped
down a long road between pastures shorn of the
seed crops, parked by a crumbling stone barn, andexited into the midday hea t of rich barnyard smellsand the sound of clucking chickens. Kate walked usaway from the centuries -old wreck toward more
S'IL VOUS PLAiT
1. Staff like self-described "culinarygypsy" Felix King live incampers at the Kitchenat Camont school.2. The Prince Noir hotelhas luxe rooms and apool for hot summerdays. 3. Breakfast at theKitchen at Camont:eggs from Agen's Placedes Laitiers market,local peaches, andsunflower honey.4. Setting up for dinner
at L'Escale in Montreal.
recent construction, where the
pigs were rutting in open-air
pens. Their sows give birth topiglets that th e brothers raise(on the day we arrived, a hun dred or so piglets were in the
weaning barn, kept very warm
even in summer). When they're
big enough to live outdoors,
they're moved to spacious pens
where they get plenty of freshair . The mature hogs seemed
happy, rushing to us when we
approached their pen.When they reach between
350 and 400 pounds , they're ready for the abat
toir, in nearby Condom. Eight to ten pigs a weekare slaughtered and chilled. I was there on a Tuesday as Dominique, his wife, Christiane, and two as
sistants transformed five of the beasts, making useof all parts of th e an im als they'd ra ised: everythingfrom belly to pork chops, to hams , both fresh and
cooked, to hund reds of pounds of sausage. Theyhave a fe rmenting chamber and dry- cur e rooms
where colored st ring indicates the number of
weeks each sausage has been drying.But it wasn't until the following day that the full
circle was apparent, at the morning market in La
vardac. Dominique had traded a butcher's hairnet
for his red beret as he and Christiane- using a scale,
a cutting board, and a knife- sold all their pork outof a small deli case to a line of customers that had
formed at 7 A.M. and didn 't cease for more than
four hours."When I' m here , it 's like I' m on stage," said
Dominique, taking a break when the crowd hadthinned. He seemed to be always grinning and happy. The decision to quit his job as a school admin-
istrator eleven years ago and return to the family
farm to work with his brothers agrees with him. "Iwant to share our philosophy with people and forthem to understand the chain of production. Part
of it is protecting the southwest of France and the
region 's producers. A fight against modernization,to keep th is way viable."
Everything is about sharing, he said."Tout seul, tumeurs, "h e said. All alone, you die.
"You can't be a solitary farmer. We all need to relyon one another, share equipment, share knowledge,help with work, share the abattoir."
He returned to his wife's side to continue sell
ing. When they'd begun, their case was packed
with belly and chops and loin and sausage and dry
sausage and small cuts of dried ham, paupiettes
(lean pork wrapped in bacon), slabs of head cheese,
crepinettes (sausages wrapped in cau l fat), short
pieces of ribs for stews, pate, blood sausage, and
offal- heart, tongue , kidneys, liver, brains , ears.
Now it was empty. But their work was not done:Dominique and Christiane would break down the
remaining hogs the following day for the Saturday
morn ing market in Nerac.
WHILE THE CHAPOLARDS' seed- to -table philoso phy is uncommon, their earthy ethos is not. Everyone in Gascony seems to not simply revere food but
take the time to appreciate it (Dominique and Chris tiane Chapolard return home daily to eat lunch to
gether). Whenever we arrived somewhere, the firstquestion was inevitably, "Have you eaten?" Katenoted that when friends leave one another at mid
day, they say "Bon appetit " rather than "See you
AFTERNOON DELIGHTS 1. Mushrooms and eel fromthe Garonne River, prepared by Michel Dussau at
Agen's La Table d'Armandie. 2. Flowers are arrangedin antique pitchersat the Kitchen at Camont .
When friends leave one another at midday, the! say"Bon appetit"rather than "See you later,'
because it's presumed you are going to
sit down to a mealJ
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PG78JU LY 201 3
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later," because it is presumed you are going to si t
down to a meal. As we did on the day we strolled the
lovely main city of the region, Agen. We had a fab ulous lunch at La Tabled'Armandie, which serves
contemporary Gascon cuisine like a big bloody cotede boeuf for two, smothered in raw shallots and
carved tableside. We ate foie gras three ways, sau teed magret, a dish of fried eel and one of lamprey,
both aquatic creatures from the Garonne River. And
we drank local wines: a white made from Ungi blancand Colombard grapes and a red from Elian Da Ros, a
Cotes du Marmandais, an appellation at the westernedge of Lot-et -Garonne that, until Da Ros returned
from Alsace to his homeland and began producing
wines, was not on the map even for people who careabout wines.
Armagnac is another astonishing product of the
region. In the town of Fources, rightly designated
one of the most beautiful villages in France, af
ter a lunch of conftt de canard for me and a salad
of gizzard confit, gesiers, lardons, and foie gras forDonna, we stopped in on Alexandre Ladeveze inthe small shop where he sells the Armagnac that
he makes from grapes grown on the family's vines.While brandy from Cognac is better known and bet
ter marketed by big houses, Armagnac is created bynumerous small producers and therefore is more
individualistic and eccentric (boastful Gascons willadd "superior" to that list). Ma ny produce rs, in cluding Ladeveze, share a communal, traveling dis
tillery each fall.
VINTAGE FINDS 1. Gascon wines from vineyards such asthese in Moi rax are stepping out from the shadow of theirBordeaux brethren. 2. Alexandre Ladeveze's wood barrelsfor ag ing Armagnac, the region's fe isty answer to Cognac.
Ladeveze gave me a lesson in proper Armagnac
tasting, show ing live different levels of complexity
and quality by carefully turning the glass to aera tethe brandy but holding his palm over the opening
as he did so. After several minutes of such tw ist
ing, and sniffing to ensure all the harsher attributesof the alcohol had lifted off, he would pronounce it
ready to taste.It's a measure of the openness and friendliness
of the people that the following day, as we wereexploring yet another "most beautiful" village
Montreal-in the early evening, Ladeveze spotted usfrom a table at a cafe and, cigar in hand, invited us tojoin him and his friends for a glass of wine at one of
the town 's most notable establishments, RestaurantDaubin.
The next afternoon found me again barreling
along empty, cu rving roads, sided by th e most
gorgeous fields and pastures I've ever seen. I was
headed up in to the hills north of t he Garonne,
to La Ferme du Roe, above the town of Port- SteMarie, where the seed- to - table connection comesin th e form of bread. Jean-Franc;ois Berthellot calls
himself and his team paysans-boulangers ("peasant-bakers," the word peasant being one of deep
pride). He grows small amounts of 250 varieties ofwheat and sells the seeds to other growers. In so
doing, he joins th e movement against monocul
ture- the planting of a single species across a widearea, which makes the entire crop vulnerable to
disease. Be rthellot has also created his own blendsof wheats, which he and his wife, Cec ile, mill forbread that they bake in their large wood- fired
oven .
THERE'S NO AVOIDING foie gras in Gascony, and
I was curious to visit Souleilles, a foie gras farm in
Frespech. As an advocate for humane animal husbandry but an opponent of the anti- foie gras legislation in the United States, I had yet to witness the
controversial practice known as gavage, in which
corn feed is delivered by tube into the duck . Forthose who are passionate vegetarians, there are the
same compelling arguments against gavage as there
are against the treatment of any of th e animals weraise for our food, such as, How can we justify do
ing to animals what they wouldn't do naturally on
their own?T arrived at Sou lei lles and was greeted by Yves
Boissiere, whose large mustache rivaled Chapo
lard's. He and his wife have created a foie gras mu
seum and put huge windows on the gavage pens sothat visitors can watch. We passed the open field
where the ducks spend most of thei r lives waddlingthe hundred or so yards across the grass from one
feed box to the other , to encourage plenty of healthywalking. The gavage (Continued on page 102)
Row after row of tables, eaCh a hundred feet long,were paCked with friends and family and neighbors eating anddrinking- confttde canardand duCk fat- fried potatoes,
escargots, sausages, broChettes, Cheeses, bottles of winein the lovely summer twilight
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0 10
MILES
\ '(-ii/
•Auch -............_
.____ ~ ..../ oulouae •
GA SCONY
PLACES & PRICES
The Gallivanting Gourmet-'
Gascony is relatively untouristed,which may be why everyone I encou n
tered was uncommonl y friendly. All of
th e towns were an easy pleasure to be
in , whe th er t iny (such as Moirax,Mezin, or Larressingl e) or larger(Nerac, Cond om, Lectoure, and
Auch). Fources and Montrea l havelovely centers (Fources's is circu lar),
and Agen is a substantial c ity on the
Garonne River with an excel lent pedestrian shopping bou levard and a
great food market.In rural France, luncht ime-rough ly
12:30 to 3 P.M. - is sacrosanct, and most
stores close. Be sure to eat wh en the
locals d o or you'll go hungry. Many of
the better restaurants are openWednesday through Sunday only, sophone ahead. For food on th e go, consider all road signs announcing a prod
uct (fruits and vegetables, b rand y,
wine) an open invitat ion; you will oftensee a grandma ou t front who, upon
you r arrival, wi ll holler for someone to
come help-provided it's not lunch
t ime. Road signs are excellent th rough out the region, and I navigatedcomfortab ly with my iPhone.
The cou ntry code for France is 33.Prices quotedare for July 2013.
LODGING
The Chiiteau de Lassalle, near Agen, is
a restored country house with spacious
rooms, a poo l, and lovely vistas of thecountryside (5·53·95·10·58; doubles
from $150). In Serignac-sur -Ga ronne,the Prince Noir was or iginally a con·vent in the 17th cen tu ry. While it lacksviews, it's still comfo rtable (5·53·68·74-30; doubl es from $100). The Henri IV
hotel, in the center of Nerac, has rea·sonably priced rooms and makes a finebase from which to enjoy the town's
Tuesday night markets (5·53·65·00·
63; doubles from $70) .
DINING
You'll find upscale Gascon fare in a mascul ine ch ic setting at Agen's La Table
d'Armandie, including cote de boeuf
for two carved tableside, d eep-fr ied ee l,lamprey from the Garonne River, ma
gret (duck breast), and foie gras cookedth ree ways (1350 ave. du Midi; 5·53·96·15-15; entrees from $30). I had a lovely
dinner on the terrace of the Auberge du
Prieure, n Moirax, one of a number of
villages so tiny and quaint you wonderwhat on earth the people who live theredo (5-53-47-59 -55; dinner p rix fixes
from $70). Th e Auberge de Fources, acasual res taurant, serves great duckconfit (Pl. Armand Fa llieres, Fources;
5·62·29-40·10; entrees from $15). Thet iny L'Art de Vivre, in Nerac, serves per
fectly cooked hal ibut and sa lmon.Reserve ahead (7 rue du Chateau; 5·53-
65- 69 ·43; entrees from $20). The casu-
QUESTIONS OR COMM ENTS? E-ma il th e editor:[email protected].
al La Cheminee, also in Nerac, holdsits own wi th steak fri tes slathered with
sha l lots and a sa lad featuring duck
g izzard con fit (28 Allee Centre; 5·53·65 -1 8-88; entree s from $20).
In summer, th ere are 19 marchesnocturnes in the region, and t hey are amust. (I'd have happily gone to one
eve ry night.) Bottles of g ood cold
wine start at $7, and plates of food
rarely surpass $13. Among the excellent ones are those in Vianne andFrechou (Frid ays from ea rly June
through ear ly September) andNerac (Tuesdays in July and August).Fo r a complete list, go t o tourisme
-lotetgaronne.com.
I didn't have a bad meal in Gascony.Even the no-frills Le Toucan, where
truckers eat, across from the supermarket in Roq uefort, serves an excellentduck confi t (2 Rte . d'Agen; 5-53-67 -23-
29; entrees from $13).For those who'd like to br ing more
th an a t in of foie gras home, Kate Hil l
offers cooking courses at the Kitchen
at Camont, in Ste-Colombe-en
Brui lhois, including a two-day female·on ly Grr ls Mea t Camp Workshop,a th ree-d ay Whole Duck: From Foie
Gras to Confit course, and an in tensive, monthlong French butchery
and charcuterie program (5-53-47-56-
29; ka [email protected]; courses
from $330). - M . R.
ODFOR A PHOTO
PORTFOLIO OFGASCONY'S FOOD
AND PEOPLE.DOWNLOAD OURDIGITAL ED ITION OR
GO TO CONDENAST
TRAVELER.COM .
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PLUS
The food trendsfrom Par is (ka le?strange but true)
to Tokyo.
CUTTLEFISHWITH SQUID
INK SAUCE
Try it at: MoVida Sydney(see page 90).
WHERE TO EAT
AND
The ultimategourmet souvenirsyou' ll make room
for in your luggage.
LONDON • PARIS · TOKYO • MANHATTAN AND BROOKLYN · SHANGHAI • SYDNEY
Some of us want to see a city from the inside of a museum or through a nighttime stroll. But some of us are
perfectly happy spending all our time in Paris or New York or Tokyo sitting at a table, eating something delicious.
In this, our fifteenth annual Hot Tab les spectacular, we asked our favorite food critics, bloggers, and writers
from around the wor ld- the experts, in other words-to come up with their favorite new restaurants in seven of
our favorite foodie cities. The result? Seventy eateries so good that you may never want to go home again.
PHOTOGRAPH BY ROLAND BELLO ILLUSTRATIONS BY JOE MCKENDRY
80 CONDE NAST TRA\.ELER JULY 2013
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FISHSAUCE WINGS
Try them at: Pok Pok Ny,Brooklyn
(see page 84).
PLUS
ucan find our nine favorite finger-licking-good
new restaurants in the American South-with
sin Atlanta, Charleston, Dallas, Houston, Memphis,New Orleans, and Washington, D.C.-only on
our digital edition.
AND
Because too much is never enough, headour digital edition and to condenasttraveler.com for even more of this year's top
tables .. . as well as additional photos.
THE MOVEABLE FEAST.
FIRST COURSE
Some of our favorite
appetizers and primi from
th is year's batch of top
restaurants from around
the wo rld.
DUCK SAMOSAS
Try them at: AubergeFlora , Paris
(see page 86).
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LIJIDJQJIThe nominator: SOPHIE DENING
Her credentials: London-based food wr iter for Evening Standar d Food Quarterly, Olive, and the Web site Square Meal,and former editor of the Harper's Bazaar restaurant guide. Follow her on Twitter @sophiedening.
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Bone Dad dies offers slurpy ramen (and bibs).
BONE DADDIES
The scene: So ld as a rock'n ' roll ramen bar and dulyplastered with portraits of
Tokyo rockabillies, th is
hopping 65-seater in aonce-grubby corner of
Soho is a favorite among
food bloggers and their
disciples. The rock play
list runs from the Stonesto AC/DC, and it's alwayscranked up.
The food: It's a Japanese
obsession with Chineseorigins, as interpreted by
an Australian in London. . . yet nothing gets lost intranslat ion. These steaming, umami-rich bowlfuls
are built on serious chicken or pork broth, thenlaced with soy, egg,
spring onion, and seaweed served over elasticwheat noodles.
Dish to get: The sesame
injected tantanmen.
Take a run beforehand towork up an appetite (30 -31Peter St.; 44-20-7287-8581; ramen from $12).
BRASSERIE CHAVOT
The scene: Behind a redawn ing a five-minutestroll from the posh
shopping dest ination ofBond Street, thi s smart75-seat dining room is
a most absurdly French,
with Ricard on the shortapero list and Ca rla Bru
ni's fir st album waftingover plush lea ther banquettes. Never mind the
democratic-sound ing"brasserie" tag: This is
CEO centra l by day and
fashion tr ibe hangou tby night.
The food: Eric Chavot'sprevious London kitchen
won two Michelin star s,
so his Gall ic classics-
such as steak tartare,
sna i ls, daube de boeuf
and rum baba- are so phisticated and techni
ca lly sure-footed.
Dish to ge t: The Rolls
Royce of choucroutes
garnies, authent ica llycooked with juniper, bay,and Riesling (41 Conduit
St.; 44-20 -70 78-9577; entrees from $25).
82 CON Dt NAST TRAVELER JULY 2013
BUBBLEDOGS&
The scene: You'll have to
jo in a hyped-up, hungry,high-net-wor th line to
check out Sandia Chang's45-seat champagne barin bustling Fitzrovia,
whe re the snack menu is100 percent hot dogs.
Despite the unlikelihoodof the pairing, this is anultra-fun spot decorated
with cartoon art on the
walls. In the back there's a
second restaurant, Ki tch-en Table, where the cognoscenti gather for
tasting menus.
The food: Top-drawer
Americana, from the
New Yorker, fes toonedwith sauerkraut, to the
chili-and-cheese- loadedSloppy Joe .
Dish to get: Any dog youwan t : You're here for the
bubbly. Try a bottle of
brut nature from biodynamic produc er Chris
tophe Mignon (70
Charlotte St.; 44-20-7637-7770; hot dogs from $9;
Kitchen Table tastingmenu, $106).
CEVICHE
The scene: Jammed fromthe minute it opened onFrith Street (a much-loved
Soho strip of bars andrestaurants, and home as
well to udon purveyorKoya and ta pas top dog
Barrafina), Cevic he pulls
in pop legends, Peruvianexpats, and West Endworker bees with its pis
co-fueled escapist vibe.The 60-seat rear d ining
room is bright-eyed andopt imistic, with psychedelic posters and vintage
mirrors; the 20-seat bar ispacked from noon untilnight. Note, too, the old
Peruvian radio showspiped into the loo.
The food: Refin ed, acceptably authentic ver
sionsof Peruvianseviches, tiraditos, andst ir-fries, all made piquantwith recherche c hili pep
pers, salsa crioffa, and
huincaina sauce.
Dish to get : The Don Ceviche, a house ma instay of
sea bass marina ted inlime juice and aji amarillochilli. It's perfectly sour,
fresh, and clean (17 FrithSt.; 44-20-7292-2040;
seviches and small platesfrom $9).
Saturday's Maltby
Street Ma rket a South
Bank phenomenon- is
crowded wi th art isanal
purveyors includingKernel Brewery, one of
the most exacting andcreative of London's
microbreweries. Buy itat: The Brewery's
stand. Arri ve between9 A .M . and 3 P.M . at
Arch 11 on Dockl ey
Road to sample its
chocolaty London Porter or crisp lemonyChinook Pale Ale:
They' re the perfect
taste of London (thekerne lbrewery.com).
THE (AFFORDABLE)
WINE BAR
There's been aLondon trade in fme
wine since at leastthe time of Henry 11 ,but until recent ly,
it was tough to find anin teresting glass that
wasn' t a splurge.
Find it at: Bottle shop /
bistro hybrids li keChampagne & Fromage
(22 We llington St.) ,Dalla Terra (25 SlingsbyPl.) , and t he wonderful
40 Maltby Street.
ODGO TO CONDENASTTRAVELER
.CO M/ FOOD OR DOWNLOADOUR DIGITAL ED ITION TO
DISCOVER LONDON'S OTHER TOP
NEW RESTAURANTS: NEWMANSTREETTAV ER N, PATTY & BUN,
AND QUALITY CHOP HOUSE.
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THE CLOVE CLUB
The scene: Sparselydecorated, and packedwith au courant Londoners and visiting chefs
from Paris and the UnitedStates, the Clove Club isboth a lively 40-capacitydining room and a gourmet bar that seats 35.
The food: For-and -bythe-young gastronomy,with an emphasis on British produce, seasona lity,and creativity. In earlyspring, whole radishesare paired with smokygochuchang mayo for adistinctive snack, leeksare studded with smokedmussels, and a bar dishof lemon sole is pairedwith Indian-spiced raita.
Dish to get: The din ingroom has aset menu, butbar diners can pick andchoose: In either case,make your first bite thesignature buttermilkfried chicken (ShoreditchTown Hall, 380 Old St.;44 -20-7729 -6496; setmenu,$73;barsnacks
from $7).
CONDE NAS TTRAVELER.COM
GREEN MAN &FRENCH HORN
The scene: This sliver of
an ex-pub in Theatrelandhas room for 60 diners atits companionably closetables. It's heaven for anyFrancophile-that's a
French jazz station youhear humming th roughthe speakers.
The food: Not-the-usualFrench bistro offerings,the fare is inspired by thetu I leng th of the LoireVa lley and is particu larlystrong on fish and sea
food : Clams come withbacon and cid er,poached Cornish codwith brandade, lemonsole with seaweed butter. There's also lots ofgood fat: rillettes, rillon,black pudding, andbaked Machecoulaischeese.
Dish to get:Turbot orzander with anastonishingly fine beurreblanc {54 St. Martin 'sLane; 44-20-7836-2645;entrees from $17) .
SALON
The scene: The 30-seatSa lon is above a Britishdeli in one of Brixton'snewly trendy coveredmarkets. Here, everyth ing is young, from thefresh-faced chef and in genue staff to the twentysomething regulars.
Inside, there's a bar hewnfrom reclaimed Douglasfir, stri pped walls, andsalvaged chairs.
The food: Casual noseto -tai l, all sourced from
small British farms: Awholemutton carcassmight offer up braisedshoulder, roast leg,and c rispy belly. Thespring menu featuressuch foragers' favoritesas sorrel, monk's beard,and ramsons.
Dish to get: It's a se tmenu- and one of thebest va lues in London
so you get what you'regiven (18 Market Row;44-20-7501-9152; setmenus from $20).
The nominator: ALAN SYTSMA
His credentials: New York City- based senior editorof New York magazine's Grub Street (grubstreet.co m).
Follow him on Twitter@asytsma.
ASKA
The scene: One of NewYork's most intriguingnew places is also one ofits most peculiar-a tast ing menu-focused 24-
seat Nordic restauran ttucked into Kinfolk Stu d ios in Brooklyn's Williamsburg neighborhood.
The food: Swedish chefFred ri k Berselius's nightlychang ing menus progress expertly and includestandouts like a "whole"herring (actually a crispyfried head and tai l with anart fully composed soft fil let in the midd le) and abeet slow-roasted until it 'sas tender as beef.
Dish to get:You can order
snacks at the bar- l ike theSwedish hot dog, a snappy sausage tucked into
Scandinavian flat breadwi th spicy mustard anddill (90 Wythe Ave.; 718-388-2969; tasting menusfrom $65).
ATERAThe scene: A comfortable 18-seat tastingcounter in TriBeCa withone of the c ity 's most inventive kitchens.
The food: Most Manhattan tasting menus are for
moneyed food loverslooking to splu rge onbites of wa gyu beef andfoie gras. At Atera, chefMatthew Lightner givesdiners something else: aterroir-d riven, multi
course feast of wild andforaged foods, includingbag uettes made to re semble edible clamshel ls, slow-roastedbeets with a tres Frenchseafood emulsion, andleeks battered with ashstained tempura.
Dish to get: It's a tastingmenu, but keep an eyeout for frozen "peanuts"tha t are actually foie gras(77 Worth St.; 212-226-1444; tasting menu, $165).
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1. Chef Matthew Li ghtner get s creat ive w ith flower petals in the d ishes at Atera, in TriBeCa. 2. Mission Ch inese
Food serves super-spicy fare with a party atmosphere on Manhatt an's Lower East Side.
CHEZ SARDINE
The scene: The name is asweird as the scene at this
30-seat faux izakaya (Japanese pub) in the Wes t Vil
lag e from rest aurateurGabriel Stulman andFrench-Ca nad ian chefMehdi Brunet-Be nkritly
(note the Mr. Miyagi port rait above the bar).
The food : Nouveau sushi(chopped beef with uni,
scal lop wi th a quai l egg)and unusual small plates
(foie gras gr illed cheese,savory pancakes with yogurt and sa lmon roebetter than it sounds) to
pair with th e spot 's cocktails, wines, and sakes.
Dish to get : The superrich hal f a salmon head,
g lazed w ith miso and map le sy rup -dit t o on way
better-than-it-sound s(183 W. 10th St.; 646-360-
3705; entrees from $1 7).
MISSION
CHINESE FOOD
The scene: A high-energy, 41-sea t Manhatta nspace full of loud music,
hipster d iners, and foodadventurers-it's like a
frat party in a Chinesetake-out shop.
The food: "Americanized"ri ffs on As ian dishes,pushed as spicy as they
can go: The c um in-blas t
ed lamb breast arrives atyour tab le still sizz l ing,
and even tofu is madetongue-numbingly hotwi th the add it ion of
Szechuan peppercorns.
Dish to ge t: Kung Pao Pas
trami that will oblitera te
your taste buds (in agood
way). Embrace the sensory assault and spend therest of the ni ght coming
down from the high (154
Orchard St.; 212-529 -8800 ; ent rees from $11).
Chez Sa rdine is an eclect ic take on a traditional izakayain New York City 's We st Village .
84 CONDE NAST TRAVELER JULY 20 13
THE NOMAD
The scene: Power play
ers commi ngle with anafte r-work bar crowd in aplush setti ng beh ind theNoMad Hotel 's lobby,
north of t he Flati ron Dist rict. The vibe is buzzyan d energetic - eve n on
wee knights, the bar isthree deep. If you wan tto try one of barman LeoRobitschek's justif iab lycelebrated cocktails (like
the Fig and Thistle- ablend of Exce ll ia Blanco
teq ui la, Cardamaro, f ig
preserves, and lemon),attempt to nab a sea t in
the hotel's library.
The ood: Urbane c lubfood as reinvented by
chef Dan iel Humm(whose other restaurant,
Eleven Ma dison Par k,
holds three Michelinstars) . Think marrow
crusted beef tenderloin,ornate sea food platters,
and suckl ing pig conf it.
Dish to get: The roastchicken for two. The bird
is stuffed wi th foie gras
and tr uffles, p resented
whole tab leside, and
the n whisked away andcarved and p lated in thekitchen {1170 Broadway;
347-472-5660; entreesfrom $20).
POK POK NY
The scene: Most restau
rateurs do everythingthey can to find a location in a packed area,full of foo t traff ic (and
potent ial customers).But when Andy Ricke rimported his Thai se nsa
t ion Pok Pok from Port land, Oregon, to New
York, he chose a remotestretch of Brooklyn 'sColum bia Street Water
front Distr ic t. Themishmash of dini ngrooms- a smal l main
room, a covered deck,and full outdoor sea ti ng
when it's wa rm , for a total of 65 seats - feels asclose to Bangkok asyou'll ge t n Brooklyn.
The food:James BeardAward-winnin g chef
Ricker reinterprets Tha ist reet foo d with a devo
t ion to aut henti city; indishes like Laap Petlsaa n (a lime- and fi sh
sa uce-spiked duck sa lad) and Chiang Ma i
sausage with spicy c hi l idi p, Ricker even usestrad itiona l Thai herbs
from the lone Americanfarmer who grows them.
Dish to ge t: Ike's Viet
namese Fish SauceWings might not be t hemost t raditional Thaid ish on the menu, but
it 's easily one of the favor ites (127 ColumbiaSt.; 718-923 -9322; en
t rees from $9).
A AR OF EMPIRE
MAYONNAISE
Stop in to a gourmetmarket or Empire Mayonnaise's own Brook
lyn storefront in
Prospect Heights tograb what has to be themost unusual of Brook
lyn 's ever growingroster of artisanal
foods: homemade may
onnaise from fo rmerpast ry chef Sam Mason.
The ars are nicelydes igned and filled w it h
colorful mayo flavored
with epicurean ingre
dients like smokedpaprika, baco n, or
French curry. Buy it at:Empire Mayonnaise
(564 Va nderbilt Ave.;718-636 2069;
4 oz. jar , $6).
It isn ' t enough for some
New York chefs tosimply buy their ngre
dients from th ebes tfarmers -many head
out to the w il d (or
hi re somebody) to
search for t he freshestmushrooms, th e
strangest herbs , andthe most flavor ful
roots. Once th ese chefs
get their handson theingredients, th ey
transform th em intothings like burdock
branch liqueur at Askaand black , br iny
lichen crackers atAtera.Find t at: The
Marrow-get th e wholeroa sted hen-of -the
woods mushroo m w ith
truffled jus (see thedigi tal edit ion).
ODGO TO CO NDENASTTRAVELER.COM/ FOOD ORDOWN LOAD OURDIGITAL ED ITION TO DISCOV ER
MANHATTAN'S AND BROOKLYN'SOTHER TOP NEW RESTAURANTS,
THEMA RROW AND LA VARA .
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THE MOVEABLE FEAST.
SECOND COURSE
Must-eat entrees from this
year's top tables, with stops
in Manhattan (upper left),Shanghai (upper right), and
Sydney (right).
MISO MAPLE HALF
SALMON HEAD
Try it at: Chez Sardine,Manhattan (see page 84).
SHORT RIB WITH POTATOES
AND PEARLONIONS
Try it at: Elefante, Shanghai(see page 87).
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PlllSThe nominator: ALEXANDER LOBRANO
His credentials: Paris-based former European corresponden t for Gourmet andauthor of Hungry fo r Paris (Random House, $17). Follow him on alexanderlob rano.com
and on Twitter @aleclob rano.
ABRI
The scene: Despite ascruffy ten th-arrondissement loca le, this shopfront is a hit thanks to chefKatsuaki Okiyama's Franco-Japanese food . You
might see Hermes ties at
noon, but later it 's bobos
with stubb le and tat toos.
Thefood: The Japan-born
chef's Ga llic techniquemarries beautifully withhis As ian palate and aesthetics.Vivid ly fresh andjudiciously seasoned dish es include mackerel marinated in ayuzu vinaigrett ewith fine slices of cabbage, fennel, and carrots,and but ternut sq uash withcoffee-flavored foam.
Dish to get: Paris's bestsandwich- tonka t su pork,kimchi omelet, meltedcheese, and umami-heavysauce on toast-is served
on Mondays and Saturdays from 10 A.M. to 7 P.M.
Note: They se ll out fast (92rue du Faubourg-Poisson
niere; 33-1 -83-97-00-00;six-course d inner, $50).
/
AUBERG EFLORA
The scene: Flora Mikula,who earned a name as thegutsiest female chef in
Paris wh ile cooking at LesOlivades on the Left Bank,now runs a funky but
sleek auberge with 40-
odd seats in a trendy
part of the eleventh arrondissement. Sit near
the subway-tiled bar fo rcasual eats, or choose theteal-blue dining room andthe prix-fixe menu.
The food: Mikula f inds inspiration in the kitchensof so uthern France andfrom the cuisines of
Spa in, Italy, Greece, Tunisia , and Morocco.
Dish toget: Menus followthe seasons, but if youcan, start with duck samosas and gri lled vegetableswith melted burrata; fo llow with the roast pork
with fava beans, mushrooms, and black olives;and fin ish with the lavender tart (44 blvd. RichardLenoir; 33-1-47-00-5 2-77;
set menus from $59).
Chefs Michael Greenwold and Simone Tondo at Roseval,
an unpretentious- but impressive- restaurant in Paris'sboho neighborhood of Belleville.
86 CONDf NAST TRAVEL ER JULY 20 13
Bonito with salted driedtuna at Bones, where smallplates are served at the bar.
BONES
The scene: In the hipsterpacked eleventh arrondissement, Aust ra lianchef James Henry gut teda fo rmer Irish pub down
to its brick wa lls. Beyondthe white marble bar is
the 25-seat dining roomba re wood tables lit byold industria l lamps-and
an open kitchen. Reservations are essential.
The food: Henry makeshis own sausage, churnshis own butter, andbakes his own bread. Hissimple, satisfy ing cookingrecalls solid, who lesomeVictorian working men's
food of yore-good meat,vegetables, and pota
toes -all pa instakinglysourced and styled.
Dish to get:The menuchanges almost dai ly, butdon't miss Henry's
smoked trout wi th sa lmoneggs, or his roasted pi
geo n with ka le, potatoes,
and a giblet puree (43
rue Godefroy Cavaignac;
33 -9-80-75-32-08; setmenus from $52).
LA REGALADE
CON SE RV ATOIRE
The scene: Occupying astrategic sidewalk-levelcorner of the gorgeousnew Hotel de Nell, this is
the th ird address of chef
Bruno Doucet's La Re
galade, the bist ro he pu rchased from foundingchef Yves Camdebordeand b rilliantly rebooted in2004. With a sleek decor
that includes picture w indows overlooking aqu iet,
atmospheric corner of
the ninth arrondi ssement,a black-a nd-white check
erboard floor, and handsome solid-oak chairs,
thi s 46-sea t place f ill sw ith executive sui ts of
both sexesat noon and anarty international crowd
at d inner.
The food: Douce t 's sig na tu re dishes juxtaposeunexpected tastes likecoconut milk, lemongrass, and tamarind
wi th traditional Ga llicingred ients.
Dish to get:The menuschange constan t ly, butdon't pass up the complimentary terrine de campagne or classics li ke thehalf-sa lted cod with shell fish and the best riz au lait
(rice pudding) in Paris(7-9 rue du Conservatoire;
33 -1-44-83-83-60; setmenu, $46).
LE 6 PAUL BERT
The scene: After the success of his cul t fave bistroLe Bistrot Pau l Bert an d itsseafood sibling, LEcail lerdu Bistrot, BertrandAuboyneau does modernFrench bistro cook ing as
executed by edgy youngMontrea ler chef LouisPhi lippe Riel. With a grocery up front and a varietyof different seating opt ions (there are 30 sea tsin total), his newest address, in the eleventh arrondissement, is packed
wit h a mix of food- lov ingtravelers and Par isians.
The food: Riel riffs oneverything from Montreal's deli tradition to
American fu sion kitchenslike David Chang's whilecon tinu ing to use theglories of Ga l l ic bistro
cooking as his compass.
Dish to get:The smallp lates menu reboots fre
quently, but keep an eyeout for the pickled herring with red onions and
dill pickles; the veal tartare; and the ba rbecuedpork with carrot panca kes (6 ru e Paul Bert;33-1-43-79 -14 -32; sma l lplates from $10).
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ROSE VAL
The scene: Serious foodlovers know that, these
days, many of the bestnew restaurants in Parisare in outlying quartiers
far from the tourist-heavyareas. So hop on the
Metro and head for Menilmontant, in the twentietharrondissement, wherethi s very charming 26-
seat neighborhood tavern
with wh ite walls and baretables has been attractingintrepid Par isian gourmands since it opened
last summer. Here, chefsSimone Tondo, an Italian,and Michael Greenwold,
an Anglo-American, servenouveau French food to aready-for-Hollywood vi
sion of the contemporary
Parisian bohemian set.
The food: The menu isbased on best-of-market
seasona l produce, umami-rich layered flavors,and contrasting textures.
Dish to get: Pounce on
anything pasta: It's all
homemade and unfailingly excellent. Other
wise, the menu is aconstantly changing ka leidoscope, bu t if you
spot anything containingpork belly or langoustine,you're seriously in luck
(1 rue d'Eupatoria; 33-9-
53-56-24-14; set menusfrom $52).
CO NDENAS TTRAVELER.COM
APPLEWOOD
SMOKED SEA SALT
Since just a pinch ofthis fragrant blacksalt powers up theflavor of even the
quietest ingredi ents
cottage cheese, for
example - it 's greatatop anything fromsliced tomatoes to
steamed salmon.Buy it at: Causses (SSrue Notre- Dame de
Loret te, 9th arr. ; 33-1 S3 16 10 10).
Thanks to the Kale
Project (thekaleproj ec t.wo rdpress.com )- a
one-woman crusade by
an intrepid Amer icanex pat to in troduce theleaf to France , w here it
had gone moreor less
undiscovered thismuch- loved hipster
green is fin ally showi ngup on Paris menus.Find it at : Bones ,wh ere it recentty
accompanied roastedp igeon, and Abri,
w here the chef li kes topair t w ith fish.
00GO TO CONDENASTTRAVELER
.COM/FOOD OR DOWNLOAD
OUR DIGITAL EDITIONTO
DISCOVER PARIS S OTHER TOPNEW RESTAURANTS , SEMILLA
ANDVIVA NT TABLE.
The nominator: CRYSTYL MO
He r credentials: Food ed itor of Time Out Shanghai; former Chinacorresponden t for AsiaWeek Magazine.
COLAGRECO ELEFANTE MERCATO
The scene: Lipstick-red The scene: A vibrant The scene: It 's so hard to
leatherfurni tu re and her- 120-seat place in a get one of the 250 seatsringbone wood floors set French Concession villa at Mercato, Jean-Georg-
a seductive retro vibe in helmed by the beloved es Vongerich ten's sec-this 60-seat Bund-side Spaniard chef Wi l ly Trul- ond Shanghai eatery,
dining room helmed by las Moreno. that the hours have beenMauro Colagreco, the
The food: The menu fea-extended to accommo-
only Argentinian che ftures dishes from Spain,
date the throng. Though
wi th two Michelin stars.the south of France, and
housed in the grand 1916
The food: Molecular Italy-there's scampibuilding Three on the
meets sculptural. Start- huevos fritos, a knockoutBund, the place has very
ers such as "Sea Tartar burrata and black t rufflenow decor: exposed
in Different Textures" salad, and a fu l l page ofsteel, reclaimed wood
and pan-fried an d raw meats and fish cooked floors, and a pizza oven
scallops with parsnip on the charcoal gril l.in the middle.
and t ruffle are arranged Enticing starters include The food: Pizzas and pas-
on plates like min i diora- the steak tartare with tas are on the simple,
mas to resemble sea sharp mustard ice well-executed menu,
sponges, mosses, and c ream and hot potato along with ricotta with
autumn leaves. Colagre- wedges: It's like a beef y seasonal fru it (strawberryco uses produce grown patatas bravas. is ou r favorite) and opal -
on his farm outsideDish to get: The giant
escent kingfish carpaccio
Shanghai with seeds he24-hour slow-cooked
laced with crushed olives.brought from his garden
and char-grilled Angus Dish to get: The ovenin France.
sho rt r ib is bathed in a turns out pizzas that are
Dish to get: The popular rich and salty brown chewy-crisp in 90 sec -starter "The Forest"- sauce and paired with onds; the pies' charredwi ld mushrooms and qui- tiny potatoes, pearl on- crusts feature toppings
noa clusters arranged ions, and who le cloves of like wild mushrooms with
like trees around puddles garlic that are so soft three cheeses and anof Parmesan cream they're almost liquid. egg cracked in the mid-
(Three on the Bund, 2nd Arugula adds a refresh- die (Three on the Bund,Fl., No. 3 Zhon g Shan ing bitter note {20 Dong - 6th Fl., No. 3 Zhong ShanDong Yi Lu; 86-21-5308- hu Lu; 86-21-5404-8085; Dong Yi Lu; 86 -21 -6321 -
5399; ent rees from $32). entrees from $10). 9922; entrees from $11).
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One of the world's largest TV towers is best admiredfrom Colagreco's d ining room.
SCAR PETTA
The scene: ChineseAmerican investmentbanker turned res taura·
teur John Liu attractscrowds of his peers-rich,
worldly Chinese-to this
30 -seat dining room in the
central Luwan district fu r-nished with distressed
painted-wood tables andchairs and exposed brick.(I t's unrelated to New
York's restaurant of the
same name.)
The food: Without a dayof professional cooking
on his resume, Liu developed Scarpetta's menu
by testing hund reds of
recipes. The result ingpan-Italian cuisine is surpr ising ly well executed,
with unpretentious foodth ink garlic, fennel, andhoney slow-roasted pork
spare ribs-served onwooden boards and
butcher paper.
Dish to get: Liu createdan unusual mixture of
flours and a three-stage
rising process to makepizzas with springy,chewy crust s. The gar·licky clam pizza with
white wine is like the piz·
za version of a delectablepasta al/a vongo/e (33Mengzi Lu; 86 -21 -3376·8223; entrees from $19).
ULTRAVIOLET
The scene: French chefPau l Pa iret's avant-gardeone-table, t en -sea t res
taurant has received somany breathless acco·
lades that it 's hard to be·lieve the place is on ly a
year old. Housed in awarehou se in a secret lo
ca tion on the Sund, the
"multisensory" Ult ravio·let is part IM AX, part mo
lecular gastronomy.
The food : Each of 22technica lly daringcourses is paired with
surround-sound music,videos on the screens/walls, lighting cues,
scents, and liquids from
a Grand Cru riesling to astrawberry gazpacho.
You start wi th a foie gras"cigarette" wi th cabbage
ash and finish with an"lspahan Di shwash": lychee, rose essence, and
raspberry foam.
Dish to get: Early visitor
Alain Ducasse was im·
pressed with the sea
bass Monte Ca rlo: awhole fish baked in a baguette and f in ished with
vierge sauce tableside,to the accompanimentof Debussy's "Clair de
Lune" (book at uvbypp
.cc; set menu, $406) .
88 CONDE NAST TRAVEL ER JULY 20 13
SHIKUMEN
YELLOW WINE
Huangjiu, or yelloww in e, has been brewed
at the Jinfeng Wine
Co mpany, Ltd., since1939. It 's essential
to an important seasonal dish involvingcrabs boiled in water
with a splash of thew ine, then served with
a cup of the warmed
wine. Buy it at:Supermarkets. The real
Shikumen yellow
wine is inexpensive
(about $6). Beware thefakes: Be sure
the label says"JinfengWine Company."
The Shangha in ese
have long favored Ital
ian food over all other
Wes tern cuisines:
It 's unintimidat ing
and often served fami
ly style like Ch inese
food. Th eir devotion
has bee n amped up byth e arriva l of pizza and pasta focused
restaurants. Find t at:81'2 Otto e Mezzo
Bombana, Jean
Georges Vongerich -ten s Mercato,and cozy, neighbor
hoody Scarpetta.
ODGO TO CONDENASTTRAVELER
.COM/FOOD OR DOWNLOADOUR DIGITAL ED ITION TODI SCOVERSHANGHAI'S OTH ER
TOP NEW RESTAURANTS' 8%OTTO E MEZZO BOMBANA, XI
NA , AND XINDAU JI .
llDJlllThe nominator, TERRY DUR ACK
His credentials: Restaurant critic for The Sydney
Morning Herald: for mer restaurant cr iticfor London·s Independent on Sunday; author of
six books, including Noodle (Bay Soma Publishing,
$50). Follow him on goodgu ides.com.au.
CAFE NICE
Thescene: Theteambehind Sydney's very Ital
ian Fratelli Fresh storesand restaurants went
Gallic with their new 120·seat bebe near the water
at Circular Quay. The viewfrom the restaurant is allAussie-a harbor full of
ferries and the SydneyHarbour Bridge-bu t the
delicate Proven9al menuwill transport you to the
flower market in Nice.
The food: A Ni9oise blend
of French and Italian, in·eluding pissaladiere
(Provence's answer to
pizza), spaghetti with pis·
tou , and ra tatouil le .
Dish to get: A pretty,
tossed -at-the-table salade ni<;oise (2 Phi llip St.,Ci rcu lar Quay; 61-2-8248-
9600; entrees from $21).
CHINA LANE
The scene: Tucked awayin a quirky mid-city lane·way cafe hung w ith bird
ca ges an d filled with
haunting recordings of
lost birdsong, China Lane
serves lively, modern
Asian cuisine like that of
its older siblings, China
Doll on WoolloomoolooWharf and China Beach in
Manly. But th is 140-seatdining room has a kitschy,clu bby, sixt ies-meets
Shanghai vibe, completewith miniature TV screens
in the Pi relli rubber
padded ba th rooms.
The food: The sp ice- lad·en mix-and-match menuruns from delicate lob
ster, ginger, and truffledumplings t o hearty slowbraised wagyu beef sh in.
Dlshtoget: A feisty sa lad
of slow-roasted po rk belly,prawns, pomelo, and jellyfish with fish sauce-it's a
happy mix of just about
every known texture (2Angel Pl.; 61 -2-9231-3939;
entrees from $10).
John Dory with coconut sambal from China Lane.
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THE MOVEABLE FEAST.
THIRD COURSE
What's the perfect meal without
dessert?We know where to
indulge your sweet tooth in Paris
(left}, Manhattan (center}, and
Tokyo (right).
CONDENASTTRAVELER.COM
GINGER STOUTCAKE
Try it at: The Marrow,Manhattan (see the
digital edition) .
RICE PUDDINGTry it at: La Rega adeConservatoire, Paris
(see page 86).
MILLE-FEUILLE
(also on cake stand at left)Try it at: Le Salon JacquesBorie, Tokyo (see page 91).
JULY 2013 c o r m ~ NAST TRA \ 'ELER 89
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1.There are more than 60 Cantonese cho ices on the menu at Mr. Wong. 2. The ca/los Madrileiios, a stew with tri pe,ch ickpeas, chorizo, and lots of paprika at the buzzy MoVida Sydney.
4FOURTEEN KITCHEN BY MIKE MOYIDA SYDNEY MR. WONG
The scene: Gutsy nose- The scene: Having cu t his The scene: Aft er setting The scene: What wasto-tail cooking in the gas- teeth in some of the up three of Melbourne's once a heaving basement
tronomic heartland of world's finest din ing best-loved Spanish res- nightclub in downtown
Su rry Hills. Popular rooms-from Rockpool in tau rants, chef Frank Sydney is now a moodilyIrish-born chef Col in Sydney to Pharmacy in Camorra has finally hi t lit, 240-seat den devotedFassn idge-who made a London-chef Mike Sydney's Surry Hills. And to dim sum and seriousname for him se lf with his McEnearn ey decided to he's done i t in style, with cocktails, with a c lubby12-hour slow-cooked lamb "get real." So he set up a an always-packed, bode- Shanghai teahouse vibe.shoulder at Paddington's 120-seat self-serve break- ga-like space fitted with a A mix of soul and R&B
highly rated Four in Hand fast and lunch canteen in generous wood bar for hums away as the dinner
Dining Room-is serving an all -Austra lian design tapas din ing, as well as crowd shifts from cityall manner of nnards in warehouse in the suburb slide-in black-leather su its to a younger, sl inkierth is stripped-down, low- of Rosebery, whe re he boo ths and a mix of high set as the night wears on.tech warehouse space began making ethically and low tab les grouped
Thefood: New-waveandwith room for 75 at a sourced dishes that are around a busy kitchen
classic Cantonese, frombar, a kitchen counter, served on enameled-tin (about 90 seats in all).and a few low-s lung plates .
top-level dim sum to lac-
banquettes.The food: A mod-meets- quered roast duck from
Thefood: Whatever trad take on Catalan and young chefs Dan Hong
The food: Expect lots of McEnearney has found Spanish cooking, from in- and Jowett Yu, and formerbones and unmention- at the market tha t day. dividual tapas (anchovies London Hakkasan dimable bits- bread ed pig's There's always wood -fired wi th smoked toma to sor- sum chef Eric Koh.tail and cracklings; black pizza , kill er salads, bet) to larger, shareable
Dish to ge t: Wok-friedpudding with prosciutto wood-roasted meat, racione (octopus with
pippies (clams) with XOand apple sauce; and and brilliant bread with warm potatoes and
ch i li sauce, and scallop-cha r-grilled ox tongue. the local Pepe Saya smoky paprika).
topped siu mai dumplings
Dish to get: The lunch-cul tu red butter.
Dish to get: Ca/los with flying fish roe (3t ime suckling pig platter Dish to get: Succulent Madrileiios, a lovely, Bridge Lane; 61-2-9240-of tender ribs, loin, kid- braised Kurobuta ham messy, paprika -laden 3000; entrees from $26).
neys, and crackling crisps with mash and Cumber- stew of honeycomb tripe,st rewn with prunes, caul i- land sa uce (85 Dunning chickpeas, and chorizoflower, and pistachio pes- Ave ., Rosebery; 61 -2- (50 Holt St., Surry Hills;to offered on Fridays and 9045-0910; lunch en t rees 61-2-8964-7642; entreesSaturdays {414 Bourke St., from $13). from $10; tapas from $4).
Surry Hills; 61-2-9331-5399; entrees from $29).
90 NAST TRAV ELER JULY 20 13
WILD HIBISCUS
FLOWERS IN SYRUP
Lee Etherington of
Kurrajong AustralianNa tive Foods was at a
party when he droppeda w ildflower nto a
flute of champagne; the
guests watched,entranced, as it danced
and bubbled. Now
you too can liven up
your own cocktailswi th hibiscus and asplash of thissyrup ,
which hasa sed uctiveraspberry-blueberry
flavor. Buy it at: Stores
li ke David Jones andDan Mu rphy's, or on
line at bushtuckershop
.com (9 oz. jar, $11).
NATIVE AUSTRALIAN
FOODS
Like Austra lians,
the count ry's indige-nous ngredientsare no
shrinking violets:
On ly in Auss ie flavorscome in ac idic
muntries (akin to cran-berries) , iron- rich
warr iga l leaves, and
tender wall aby (above) .And whe reas native
food was once gim -
micky , it's now eth i-ca lly harvested and
used in creative ways.Find it at: The Woods.
ODGO TO CONDENASTTRAVELER.COM/ FOOD OR DOWNLOADOUR DIGITAL ED ITION TO
DISCOVER SYDNEY"S OTHER TOP
NEWRE
STAURANTS:HARTSYARD, MONOPOLE,SIXPENNY, AND THEWOODS.
CONDENASTTRAVEL ER CO M
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11111The nominator : YUKARI SAKAMOTO
Her credent ials: Tokyo-based chef, sommelier. and shochu adviser; author o f Food Sake Tokyo,
a guide to the city's restaurants and food ha lls (Little Bookroom, $30).
Follow her on foodsaketokyo.wordpress.com and on Twitter @yukarisakamoto.
CICADA LA SORA SEED
The scene: This is the The scene: It's all drama
kind of easygoing restau- at this thir ty-first-floorrant you wish were in your space in the Oshiage dis-
neighborhood. The vibe tr ict. where floor-to-ceil-is relaxed, the music is ing windows offer viewsloungey, the service is of the world's largest
friendly, and the menu is communications tower,solid. Run by a former Tokyo Skytree.New Yorker, David Chid-
The food: Tokyoites useddo, it has room for about
to ourney four hours to50 and is in the Ornate-sando shopping dist rict ,
chef Masayuki Okuda's
just down the st reet from restaurant, Al-che-ccia-Comme des Gar9ons.
no, for Italian dishesmade wi th Japanese
The food: Mediterra- fa rm products. Now theynean-influenced ta pas can eat his flavorfu I food,
and meats with an eclec- like bamboo shoot risot-t ic wine list. Rea lly, to wi th boar pancetta,though, you're here for roasted baby sweetfish,the beer. Craft beer is a and red eggplants, righ t
trend in Tokyo (see "Craft in town.Brewing;· right ), and Ci -
cada is one of the fewDish to ge t: Try the lunch
places that successfullybuffet of vegetables
pairs brews with food.served raw, steamed,
and roasted. You might
Dish to get: The meze find eight types of heir-
plate of cheese, meats, loom tomatoes, steamedand dips served with fla t white sweet potatoes,
bread (the select ion and sauteed mushrooms.changes weekly) and a Just spritz them with saltglass of the on-tap Tokyo- water and they're readybrewed TY. Harbor to savor (Sumida-ku, Os-(Minato-ku, Minami-Aoya- hiage 1-1-2 , 31st floor; 81-ma 5-7-28; 81-3-6434- 3-5809-7284; se t menus
1255; entrees from $18). from $77).
LE SALON
JACQUES BORIE
The scene: Classical mu-
sic provides the soundtrack for th is 35-seat sa-Ion on the fashion floor
of Isetan, a premier de-partment store in the
shop- and bar-filled Shin-
juku district.
The food: French clas-
sics (quiche lorraine and
sauteed foie gras) by oneof Japan's most famous
French chefs, JacquesBarie, who oversaw To-
kyo restau rants L0 sierand Shiseido Parlour.
Dish to ge t: The maincourses are terrific, but
the real prize is Borie's
dessert wagon, wh ich is
piled with tradit ional pas-
tries such as vacherinmer ingue, tarte Tatin , andile f/ottante, an airy me-
ringue dotted with nuts.After, visit lsetan's depa-chika, or basement epi-
curean floor, which hasth e city's best select ionof prepared and pack-
aged foods (Shinjuku-ku,Shinjuku 3-14-1, Shinjuku
Isetan 4F; 81-3-5363-5688; set menu, $58).
Dessert is the specialty at
Le Salon Jacques Barie.
MENYA SUMISU
The scene : At this bustling bare-bones 18 -seatramen jo int in the resi
dential Minam i-Aoyama
district, businessmentuck paper bibs into theirco llars and slurp up noo
dles. Don't expect fi nesse: The lighting isaggressively bright, and
J-pop mu sic blares from
th e speakers.
The food: Why is this, of
all ofTokyo's many ramenshops, getting such rave
reviews? Because of ts
ch icken stock. Whilemany ramen restaurantshave turned to th ick po rkbone- based stocks,
Menya Sumisu uses a verysimple ch icken stock. The
result is a bowl of noodlesthat's sat isfy ing yet no t at
all heavy.
Dish to g et: Salt or soysauce ramen: thin noo
dles with smoky grilled
chicken and a chickenmeatball studded withbits of crunchy cartilage(Minato-ku, Minami-Aoyama 2-2-15, Win Aoyama 1F;
81-3-3497-58 28; ramenfrom $7).
ODGO TO CONDENASTTRAVELER.COM/ FOOD OR DOWNLOADOUR DIGITAL EDITION TODISCOVER TOKYO'S OTHER TOP
NEW RESTAURANTS, DA OLMO ,
OHARA, ANDUDO N MARUKA.
YOU'LL ALSO FIND OUR GUIDE TO
THE NINE BEST NEW TAB LES IN THEAMERICAN SOUTH, WITH STOPS I N
ATLANTA, CHARLESTON, DALLAS,HOUSTON, MEMPHIS, NEW
ORLEANS, AND WASHINGTON, D.C.
DASHI GA YOKO
DERU SODAGATSUO
For loversof umami,the rich " fifth taste" of
meats and mush
rooms, there's dashi
ga yoku deru sodagat-suo: mackerel that 'sbeen smoked, fer
mented, cured, and
bottled. Add soy sauce
and refrigerate for l woweeks to make an
umami - heavy brew to
paint on meats, drop
into soups, or sprinkle
over tofu. lt lasts for a
year if you add soysauce as needed. Buy t
at: Marugoto KochiAntenna Shop (Chuo
ku , Ginza 1-3-13).
CRAFT BREWING
Tokyoites are seriousabout beer , but craft
beers are only now tak
ing off, and brew
based bars are popping
up all ac ross t he city.
Find it at: Bars like The
Taproom in Harajuku
(Shibuya - ku , Jingumae
1 20 13, No SurrenderBldg. 2F), Watering
Hole in Yoyogi
(Shibuya ku , Sendagaya 5-26-5) , BiiruyaPururin in Ginza
(Chuo ku , Ginza 6 7
7),and Swan Lake Pub
Edo near Tokyo Station
(Chuo- ku ,Vaesu 2- 6-
5) have as many as
30 craft beers on tap.
CO NDE NASTTRAVELER.COM JULY 20 13 CONDt NAST TRAVELER 91
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populated capital on the southern
half of this particular atoll. The
nation's name is derived from that
of an English captain who once
sailed his convict ship through
these waters (though it's not pro
nounced as you'd expect), and its
three major archipelago groups are
easily traversed by turboprop. You
may get a hoot out of spending
Christmas on the largest atoll orinvestigating the whereabouts of
an ill-fated aviatrix. If you want to
soak in more of the region's
sparkling-b lue waters, take a trip to
the new California-size mari time
protected area, the first of its kind
to encompass massive seamountsa rich deep-water habitat.
ording to the local culture's
I values, all resources
ared among the peo
ns you've got a stake
· ht down to the
YOU!PLAY THE CONTE ST AT CONDENASTTRAYELER.COM
PllZES For naming the mystery loca tion thismonth, one reader will receive a three-daymountain retreat to the Ritz-Carlton, Lake Tahoe.In addition: All correct answers will automaticallybe entered in Conde Nast Traveler's grand-prizedrawing for a chance to win a weeklong RitzCarlton experience in the Middle East.
PLAY THE li&llEPlease identify the locati on shownby atoll and country. For the answer to the Maypuzzle and the winner of the March prize, turn to
page 14. For contest ru les, see below. Go to
condenasttravele r.com/whereareyou to play thecontest.
No purchase necessary. To enter and for full rules. go ocondenasttraveler.com/whereareyou. Starts at 12:01 A.M.
ET on the first day of each month, beginning January 1,
2013. and endsat 11:59 P.M. ET on the last day of each
month. Open to egal residents of he 50 United States.
D.C • and Canada(exceptQuebec) 18 years or older.
except employees of Sponsor. their mmediate amilies.
and those living n he same household.Odds of winning
depend on the number of correct entriesreceived. Void
in Quebec; outside the 50 United States.D.C., and
Canada; and where prohibited. Twelve monthly winners:
ARV $4.000each; one grand·prize winner: ARV $10,000.
Sponsor: Conde Nast .
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PG96JU LY 201 3
• COND E NAS T
TR AVE L ER
DNNERT IME IS UPON US. STARS ARE ALL HOUND US. AND
what's before us on this blissfully balmy night
in Colombia is no mere restaurant. It's a whirl ing, twinkling dream, a wonderland of colored
lights- on the steadily rotating blades of the
decorative windmills that line the street in frontof the place; on the gently swaying branches
of the trees skirting it; alongside the paths that
lattice the parking lot, which is as vast as anyamusement park's. As we shimmy into a spot, I
catch my reflection in one of the car's windows.
When do Iever smile this widely?I was prepped. I was stoked. At least half a
dozen globe- trotting friends, savvy diners all,told me that Andres Carne de Res , this steak
house cum fun house about forty minutes (with
out traffic) from the center of Bogota, was un like anywhere they'd ever eaten , and that they
couldn't fathom why it wasn't known and chat tered about the world over. Already Ican't fath
om that either.
My companions and I step giddily through
the front door, and it 's like passing through the
looking glass. Two hosts wearing sombreros andMexican- style ponchos hand us hollowed-ou t
lime halves with pools of golden tequila inside.
Another host leads us to our table, through alabyrinth of rooms that aren't so much designed
THENEW CHILL 1. The Central Park Swizzle, a gincocktail with spearmint and bitters at Gordo, one of
Bogota's many new New York-inspired restaurants.2. Dining alfresco in the buzzy hood of Zona T.
as deluged with sculp tures made from scrap
metal and kitchen castoffs, including a giant
crucifix of bottle caps. Shelves along the wallsare stuffed with religious icons, masks, and odd
ball objets d'art. The ceiling, where illuminatedred hearts and other ornaments dangle, lookslike the world's largest, most hectic mobile. I f
the ghost of Salvador Dalf did the stage set forHoarders: Restaurant Edition, he' d come up
with something like this.
Its demen ted glory was decades in the mak
ing. Back in 1982, Andres Jaramillo, a Co lom
bian hippie with a Jimi Hendrix fixation and an
old Fiat, decided that it was time to s top roaming
aimlessly around the country and start a business. He opened a roadside grill with ten tables.
At first, customers were hard to come by."I'd be in the middle of
the street with a red napkin, waving people down,"
recalls Jaramillo, nowfiftyseven. "Itw asverylonely."
Then it wasn't. The ten
tables filled, so he added
more, and then more, and
then more after that. He's
still adding them. AndresCarne de Res now accom-modates about two thou-sand diners at a time, along
TASTE AND SEE 1. Theold historic center LaCandelaria is packedwith atmosphere-
and food vendors.2. Uchuvas, amongthe many Colombiangrown fruits used inthe dishes at the
restaurant Abasto.3. La Fama's brisketsandwich. 4 . A rarequiet moment at hot
spot Andres D.C.
with another thousand or so revelers who justjam the spaces between and near the tab les todance and maybe sing and most definitelydrink.
It's a gargantuan frat party with fried plantains,a ravewith empanadas. The party goes on in Bogota's city center too, where, in 2009, Jaramillo
opened a scaled-down version of Andres Ca rnede Res called Andres D.C. (Another, La Plaza de
Andres, is a mall food court extraordinaire,done
to Jaramillo's grand, gaudy specifications .)
But nothing compares wi th the mothership:Spread out over at least four football fields' worth
of space, Andres Carne de Res is a small city un toitself. There' s on -site child care, with a kiddie
soccer field, a kiddie dance studio, and a kiddieclimbing wall, as well as workshops that provide
nearly all the furniture and dishes the restaurantneeds. Th e staffof seven hundred include not just
cooks and servers but also disc jockeys, jesters,a marching band, and "angels" who will relieve
you of your car keys so that you can have as muchtequila as you like. At night's end , which means
three or four or even six in the morning, they'll
"ANGELS" WILL RELIEVE YOU OF YOUR CAR KEYS SO THAT YOU CAN HAVE AS MUCH
TEQUILA AS YOU LIKE. AT NIGHT'S END, WHICH MEANS
THREE OR FOUR OR EVEN SIX IN THE MORNING, THEY'LLTAKE YOU BACK TO BOGOTi IN YOUR OWN CAR
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P A T i l l . ~ .... ___ .:
11A S \900
····--········---···
_........ - - · ~ ~ ;lllDlS ClllllUS
·-··· .......
S3800······-·······
nsoo···-----··.,··
BREAKFASTOF
CHAMPIONS It's not
your typicaldesayuno fare at
Masa, where the daymight start with abroccoli frittata and
)
some of the finestb r e a d on thecon t inent. (ChefSi lvana Villegas
trained in New Yorkunder Jean -GeorgesVongerichten.)
P, 99JULY 2013
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PGIOOJULY 201 3
• CON D E NAS T
TRAVE L ER
DIBS ON RIBS La Fama takes a page from the American
South's book with barbecue staples like baby back ribs,pul led pork, and smoked ch icken.
take you back to Bogota in your own car , so you
don 't have to retrieve it the next day.
One of my companions volun teers to be ourgroup's designated driver, and we get down to
meaty business, ordering sausages, lamb chops,salt-crusted sirloin. ·n1e food should take fo reverto arr ive, given the acrobatic slalom that serversmust perform to carry sizzling platters th roughthe tangle of bodies everywhere. But it showsup without any delay. And it's not t he forget table grub that you brace fo r in an operation
th is massive and frenetic. It 's first-rate: beef ofrobust flavor and uncommon juiciness; roast ed , marble-size criolla potatoes that pop in my
mouth like gra pes. I'm floored , delightedly, bythe restaurant's ability to pu ll th is off. But thenI'm floored, delightedly, by all of Bogota and its
dining scene-one of unexpected dynamism and
uncommon joys.
OVER THE LAST FIVE mu. WHILE THE UNITED STATES AND
Europe sputtered economically, several coun tries in Latin America we re taking off, and Co lombia was one of them. It took bet ter control
of the political turmoil and pervasive cr im e that
have long prevented it from realizing the fu ll
Tl•• •~ ~ •EN PORK BELLY BAKED SNOOK
TASTES" TATER TOTS" atAbasto
at Gordo A flaky
WORTHPo rk nuggets Ca ribbean fish ,
cooked fo r served here
THE twenty-four with mango
TRIPhours sous vide, and avocado
then breaded relish and
and fried. coconut rice.
potential of its rich natural resources. It imple
mented free- trade agreements. Foreign invest
ment poured in; buildings rose. All around the
Bogota me tropolitan area, wh ich is home to
some nine million people, you see cranes, con
struction crews, and recently opened stores and
businesses. The main airport added a gleamingterminal las t year, which it's still expanding.
Boutique hotels are joining t hose run by the
usual chains.And while much of Bogota still has a Third
World capital's slapdash structures and genericsprawl, it' s a more topogra phica lly impressivecity than is often mentioned, wi th peaks and
ridges all around it . The main ridge, tall and
Jong and green, traces central Bogota's easternedge in much the way that the less verdant Santa
Monica Mountains form a spine for Los Angeles,
and the nicest neighborhoods on the slope that
looks wes t to the center of the city are affluen t
enough to bring to mind Brentwood, Beverly
Hills, West Hollywood. You move through them
as you would through that enc hanted Southern
California corridor , on a long artery that curvesand rises and dips like Sunset Boulevard, mar
veling at the spiffy apartments and residences,the busy restaurants, the sharp grade of the land,the beautifully manicured vegetation, the views .
This surprises me more than it should, givenall the buzz about the city that I began hearing
late last year from people I know in the restau
rant business. Mic hael White, venerated for hisItalian cooking at Ma rea and Osteria Mo rini inManhattan, had been to Bogota. So had Lauren t
Tourondel, who is the L and the Tin the BLT
restaurant group, and Jordan Salcito, the winedi rector for the Momofuku empire in New York.
Their interest in Co lombia is attributable inlarge par t to the Bogota Wine & Food Festival,wh ich was inaugurated in 2011 and w ill be staged
for a third time in August , bringing internationalcu linary stars to the city in order to expose localrestaurateurs to the world 's best cooking and to
show the culinary world the remarkable stridesthese restaurateurs have already made. The fes tival perfectly exemplifies the eager outreach
that Co lombia, determinedly shedding its image
as a dangerous haven fo r drug lords, is doing. Italso expresses the welling confidence ofboth the
coun try and its capital.Sa lcito encouraged me to mee t Laura Cahn
speyer, who runs a local (Continued on page 102)
,........4
1··,.\.. l.?'1•'=MORA JUICE ALMOND CH/CHARRON·
at La Plaza de Andres CROISSANT CITOS
in El Retiro mall at Masa at Club Col ombia
Made with a Layers of butter Chun ks of porkCo lombian ber ry and dough that rind with a bit of
that has a tangy are baked, then meat attached ,sweet flavor- the coated with spiced and then
smoothie is pretty almond cream fried to a crisp .
great too. and baked again.
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PLACES & PRICES
Taking a Big BiteOut of BogotaAlthough less frequ ently visited thanmany other foreign capitals, Bogota is
as accommodating as any of them:
easy to reach, easy to master, andbrimming with pleasures.
The country and city code fo r Bogotais 57-1. Prices quoted are for July 2013.
LODGINGBogota isn't as chockablock with hotels as some other capitals, but both
the number and the quality of accommodatio ns are steadily rising, with
some notable additions over the lasttwo years. Splashiest among them isthe B.O.G. Hotel, which was included
on this year's Hot List (condenasttraveler.com/hot-list/2013). It's a sleek,
slender tower with 55 rooms and arooftop pool and lounge in a primeshopping and dining neighborhood
(639-9990; doubles from $312). Far
ther north and less expensive, the relatively new Hotel Cabrera Imperial has39 beaut ifully furnished, light -filled
rooms (636-0699; doubles from
$243). For a much different experience, the Hotel de la Opera is a sump
tuous early-nineteenth-century oasisin the historic center, La Candelaria,
which oozes character but feels lesscomfortable at night than during the
day (336-2066; doubles from $172).
DINING
For an introduction to traditional dish
es and to the scale and luxury thatcharacte rize many of Bogota's most
popular restaurants, head to Club Co-
lombia, a co llaboration of the city'smost prolific restaurateur, Leo Katz,and perhaps its most revered chef,
:;, Harry Sasson. In an old stone estate, ithas clubby rooms with tufted leather
furniture and patios with a tropical Ian':!! guor. The weekend brunches are es-
§ ! ~ ' . ~ ~ 8 ~ ; : : e ~ ~ - o ~ · ; 5 ~ : ~ ~ ~ ;if>
great-looking and justly popular plac-
<( es in the Rosales neighborhood are
0 the pastry shop Grazia (Ca lle 69, No.
5-04; 702-1115)and Silvana Villegas'sw Masa (Calle 70, No. 4-83; 211-0899).
gA good mid-a fternoon stop is LauraCahnspeyer's tea shop, Taller de Te
(Calle 60A, No. 3A-38; 255-4128), or
E&D Cates, a coffeehouse cum lab
_,, •BRAISED AREPACON
COUNTRY QUESO
CHICKEN ANTIOQUENO
at Mercado MOL/DOat Andres
Locally raised Carn e de Res a nd
chicken Andres D.C.
marinated in a Corn cake toppedtumbler. with crumbled
farmer's cheese.
(Carrera 4, No. 66-46; 248-6955). In
the same hood are the New York City
inspired spots La Fama Barb ecue,
where you tuck into ribs and pork loinat picnic tab les (Calle 65 Bis, No. 4-85;644-7766; entrees from $8}, and Gor
do, Daniel Castafio's paean to Brooklyn (Carrera 5, No. 66-84; 345-5769;entrees from $13). Bruto is packed at
lunch and at dinner with food-savvyColombians eager to try the impres
sive Basque cooking (Carrera 10A, No.70-50; 249-0314; entrees from $14).For empanadas, my friend John Maga
zino swears by Em panadi tas de Pip ian(Carrera 9a, No. 73-11; 211-6514; empanadas from 50¢).
For a tighter focus on Colombian ingredients, there's Abas to, occupying
a two-story house in the Usaquenneighborhood that seems like somebody's fetch ingly rumpled home
(Carrera 6, No. 119b-52; 215-1286; en
trees from $12), and Mercado, a new
casual addition to the growing empire
of chef Leonor Espinosa (Calle 93a,No. 12-73; 236-2500; entrees from
$9). Nearby is the newest of the three
Burger Ma rkets, which secures itsmeat from a local university (Calle93a, No. 13b-56; 635-3048; entrees
from $9).Forty minutes outside the c ity, in
the suburb of Chia, you can savor the
singular spectacle-and excellentgr illed meats-of Andres Carne de Res
(Calle 3, No. 11a-56; 863-7880; entreesfrom $9). If you'd rather not make thetrek, try the newer, closer outpost,
And res D.C. (Calle 82, No. 11 -57; 863-
7880; entrees from $9).This year's Bogota Wine & Food Fes
tival is August 28 through September 1(tickets from $20).
SIGHTSEEINGAND SHOPPINGBe sure to walk around La Candelaria,where many of the lovel iest nine
teenth -century bui ldings are situatedaround the Plaza de Bolivar, the mainsquare. Nea rby, you'll find the terrific
Botero Museum in a colonial mansionon Ca lle 11 (343-1212). The shopping
center El Reti ro is leagues better thanyour typical mall and has Andres Jaramillo's remarkable foo d court (Calle 81,
No. 11-94). For the best view of the
Andean peaks and ridges around Bogota, take the fun icular or tram to the
10,341-foot summit of Monse rrate.There you'll find a seventeenth-century
church as well as places to eat and
drink (cerromonserrate.com). -F. e.
UI
\JW!I •.... ---MPANADAS COFFEE
DEP/PIAN at E&D Cafes
at Empanad itas Co ffee made fromde Pipian a wide variety of
AColombian Co lombianstaple stu ffed beans ; tastingswi th roasted and roastingpeanuts and workshops are
potatoes. offered.
QUESTIONS OK COMMENTS? E- mail tile editor: deborall@co11de11asrtrave ler .com .
ODFOR PETER FRANK
EDWARDS'S PHOTOS
OF SEVEN STANDOUTRESTAURANTS IN
BOGOTA, DOWNLOADOUR DI GITAL EDITIONOR GO TO CONDENAST
TRAVELER.COM/FOOD.
~SQUID
CROQUETAS
at Bruto
Crisp orbs tilledwi th creamybechamel and
squ id ink; served
w ith ai"oli.
'\CHIA
La Bodega de Abasto•
Abasto •Bistronomy
Bogota BeerO.Company
USAQUEN
(Andres Carne de Res)
0
\ANAMA
VENEZUELA
• Bogota
COLOMB IA
ECUADOR BRAZIL
Cll.LLE9A
Mercado
BurgerMarket C/l.LLE 92
1/4 MILE
0
\ LACABRERA
"' Monserrate-7
CALLE85
El RetiroShopping Center
Hotel Cabrera Imperial
ii\ Club Colombia
..
AndresD.C.
EL RETIRO
C/l.LLE 76
\!!Harry Sasson
Empanaditasde Pipian
CHI LE/C72
La Leo Cocina Mestiza/
B.O.G. Hotellit . . . • Masa
Criterion ~GraziaBruto G o r d oE&D Cates .!!
La Fama B a r b e c u e
CHAPINERO
ALTO
Ta ller de Te-.
LA CAN DELARIA \(Leo Cocina y C a v a ; ~
Hotel de la Opera;Plaza de Bolivar; Botero Museum )
PG IOIJULY 201 3
• C ONOJ!: NAST
TRA VE L ER
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GasconyCONTINUED FROM PAGE 78
was done by an old woman in a hairnet
who carried a stool from pen to pen , holding the ducks between her legs for their
twice -daily feeding. The ducks pointed
their beaks skywar d ; she inse rted the
tube and then spent a few more second smassaging the food toward their gizzard.
Fed, t he du cks waddled off squawk ingand flapping.
And this was day twe lve of the fo ur
teen-day period of gavage. "On Monday,they go into the casserole," said Bois siere. Then , quietly, "But don't tell them
or they'll go on st rike."Bo issiere raises and dispatches between
ten thousand and twelve thousand ducks
a year. "I helped my father do this, and
I enjoyed wo rking with him ," he said. "Iwant to maintain the tradition and move
it into the fu ture." He spoke proudly ofthe quality of th e grain he used, and I no
ticed that his care of the an imals was ev erywhere on view , from the clean barns
and t he healt h of the du cks, vigorouseven at the end of gavage, t o his pride in
a foie gras tasting he gave me in the store.And th e reg ion 's history speaks th roughhim, li tera lly: When alone with his fa m ily, he speaks the Occitan language com
mon to the area in Roman times.
I was beginning to unde rs tan d what
had a lways been at th e bo tt om of myneed to wr it e about fo od: people. Here
I was in the heart of French pa radoxcountry- where people who don ' t diet or
avoid food but embrace it with vigor live
longe r , with a lower incidence of heart
disease than we in the land of chicken breast -on -salad. It 's because they con
tinue to grow, cook, and ea t food much
as they have for centuries, a fact that theChapolards , Ladeveze, Boissiere , and the
Berthe llots embody with their lives.On our final night in Gascony, we had
an aperitif at Ka te 's far mhouse, which
had filled to bursting wi th culinary gyp sies, and headed to a marche nocturne, a
night market, perhaps the truest expres sion of the terroir we'd experienced.
I' d noticed throughout our t rip how
love ly it was to tour towns and vi llagesthat were so untouristed , so tranqu il.The nigh t market was in Nerac , home ofFrance's Henry JV, or Henry the Great,the sixteenth - century k ing known, itmay be no sur prise, for his emb race of
peasant far mers, beli evi ng th at th ere
would be peace in th e land if the peoplecould grow their own food and promis
ing a chicken in eve ry pot . During the
day , we had dined and shopped along the
town 's uncrowded st reets .But on the night of the marche nae -
102 CONDE NAST TRAV Ei.ER JULY 20 13
turne, we could scarcely find a place to
park. Crowds streamed ove r the bridge
from the ci ty dow n to t he canal, to alarge open area that had been trans
fo rmed into a gigantic dining room. Theregion's fa rmers, chefs, and winemakers
had come to sell their food and drink. An
African ba nd was on stage, and people
were dancing. Row after row of tables ,
each a hundred feet long, stretched in thecen ter , packed wit h friends and family
and neighbors eating and drinking. Herethere were lines, many lines, people wait
ing hungrily for plates of conftt de canardand duck fat-fried potatoes, escargots,sausages, brochettes, cheeses , bottles of
wine, to ea t and drink in the lovely sum
mer tw iligh t.We staked out a circu lar tab le at which
to stand and eat and were joined by sev
eral strangers. It was as if the entire to wnwere one big family that had come ou t toce lebrate food and wine and each other.
Two years ea rlier , I' d bee n powerfullymoved by th e honesty and in tegrity of
Dominiq ue Chapolard-no t by his knife
sk ills but , I knew now, by the way heembodied the land he comes from. Dominique found us at the night market inNerac, music rocking, seven- dollar bot
tles of rose spread on the table, containersfilled with snail shells, plates of sausageand pot atoes, and andouillet tes, du ck
and Gascon beef- a carnival of food and
wine and music and communi ty. Go newas the hairnet from the butchery, gone
too the beret and apron from the market.
He was dressed in shorts and a summershir t , with a grin so big a silver pre molar
caught the low sun.I thanked him for showing me his work,
how he broke down the hogs, an d the
drying roo ms where his sausage cu res.
He became serious and shook his headno. Kate was on his left , and he looked to
her, urgently, because he leaned on her totranslate for him , but t hen tu rned to me
to say something in my language, though
it was difficult.
He touched my chest with h is fingertipsand said, "You honor us by being here."
I was struck by a thought- more a feeling, really- t hat was hard to put int owords. Istood before a man who qui t hisdesk job at age fo r ty - four and took up
hog fa rming in probably the most physica lly grueling way possible, whose wifechurned out hundreds of pounds of meat
daily beside him and st ill found time tostop midday and join him for a home cooked lunch , a man with a mu stache
bigger t han his head who' d re turned to
his land because he knew what mat tered
and said so with his very li fe, in the midstof a throbbing , dancing, chomping, swill
ing crowd - a people to whom that was nosurprise at all . D
Bogota
CONT INUED FROM PAGE 100
tea shop, so tha t 's where I head on my
first morning. As my taxi moves throughthe shopping district around my hotel and
then up and across those posh neighbor
hoods on the slope, I'm st ruck again by
how lush the city is: by how many build ings have balconies and patios and gar
dens. This reflects the gent le weather,
where the usua l daytime high throughoutthe year is in the sixties.
Cah nspeyer 's tea shop, ca lled Taller
de Te, is in the Chapinero Alto neighb or hood, whose rapid, ongoing gentrification
it embodies. She's taken the lower floor of
a humdrum limestone house on a largelyresidential street and turned it into anadorable refuge where she makes, sells,and serves custo m blends with tea leavesimported from other countries, but most
of the herbs, spices, and flowers are grownin Colombia. In fact, some of the Englishmint, lemongrass, and lemon verbena sheuses comes from flowerpots in Ta ller deTe' s backyard.
She serves me a sensationally fragranttea seasoned with cloves, nutmeg, an d
marigold."I hope it's caffeinated," I say, explain
ing that I'm feeling strangely depleted ,
though Ican' t figure out why, s ince Bogo
ta and New York are in the same time zoneand I shouldn 't have jet lag.
She laughs: "Maybe the altitude? " I for
got somehow that Bogota is, at 8,500 feet,the third- highest capital in South America, after Quito and La Paz. And here in
Chapinero Alto, maybe a third of the wayup the main ridge, we ' re another severalhundred fee t higher than that.
The two of us wa lk to lunch, and along
the way she points to restaurant after restaurant that has sprung up in the last year
or two. We pass La Fama, which opened
in November with the he lp of a pit masterfrom New York and specializes in Ameri
can-style barbecue- smoked brisket, babyback r ibs, sweet corn. Then we pass Gor
do, which opened around the same timeand promi ses its diners the excitement and
food not of a region of Italy or France but ofBrooklyn. Yes, Brooklyn .
We cross in to Quinta Camacho , where
the s idewalks are crowded wi th na ttily
dressed ban kers heading out for a middaymeal, and arrive at our dest ination, Bruto, yet another new restaurant, this oneserving Spanish food in high -cei linged,brick -walled, handsome rooms. It 's bus tli ng, an obvious favo rite of th ose bank
ers, and for good reaso n. Everything Isample - in particular the salads and the
squid croquetas, which are crisp orbswith an oozing cen ter of bechamel an d
CONDENASTTRAVELERCOM
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Bogota
squid ink - is superb. I send my compli
ments to the chef, Felipe Arizabaleta,
who knows Ca hn speyer and drops by our
table to say hello.Arizabaleta, thirty- six, grew up in Co
lombia but left in 2003, sickened by the
violence, discouraged by the economy,and convinced that the country was no
place for him and his wife to raise their
newborn daughter. They started over inSpain, where he trained and worked as a
chef. But by 2009, when he hungered fo r arestaurant of his own, Colombia seemed abetter bet than anywhere in Europe. "It's
incredible the way things turned around
here, " he te lls me. He returned and soon
joined forces with other investors to opentwo places in Bogota, a hugely popular
French bistro named El Bandido and, latelast year, Bruto.
The migration back to Colombia ofyoung entrepreneurs who thought they'd
have to make their fortune elsewhere explains the country' s culinary coming-of
age as well as anything else. Cahnspeyer,thirty - two, opened Taller de Te in 2012,
after eight years outside her country ona hunt for a better educa tion and jobs inthe United States, England, Germany, and
Spain.
A stunning new pastry shop and cafe
named Grazia, in the tony Rosales neigh
borh ood of Bogota, belongs to a hus band-and -wife team in their early thir
ties-she's Colombian, he' s French-whorecent ly moved here from Ne w York,where he was in charge of desserts at twoof Daniel Boulud 's restaurants. One block
away from Grazia is a fantastic bakery and
sandwich spot, Masa, that was started in
late 2011 by yet another returning Co lom
bian, Silvana Villegas, twenty-eight, whoworked in New York for Jean-Georges
Vongerichten.And the reason that Daniel Castano ,
the thirty - five -year -old chef at Gordo ,
can summon Brooklyn is because he livedthere, in the Williamsburg neighborhood,
until 2009 and in Ma nhattan until just lastyear. All to ld, he spent more than a decade
cooking in New York-part of that timein several of Mario Batali 's restaurants before moving back to Bogota, whichwas sudden ly the city wi th the brighte ropportunities.
I'M DYING to experience Brooklyn in Bo
gota bu t dec ide to wait until my friendJohn Magazino , a New York specialty- foodimporter, joins me. He's been to the city
twice over the last year , and those tr ipshave converted him into a bona tide evan
gelist for the place, in tent on flying in toshow me around.
10 4 CONDE NAS T TRAVELER JULY 2013
Shortly after he arrives, we grab lunch
at Club Colombia , one of Bogota's most
beloved shrines to such traditional Co lombian dishes as chicharrones, which
are fried pork rinds with some meat and
fat att ache d; empanadas de pipicin, en
velopes of fried cornmealstuffed with pota to and served with a pean ut sauce; and
ajiaco, a shepherd's pie of a soup with
chicken, potatoes, corn , sour cream, andavocado. But what John wants me to focus
on is the twenty -odd types of common
and uncommon fruits that Club Co lombiawill turn into fresh juices or smoothies.
Fruits both familiar and exotic th rive inCo lombia, with its equatorial climate and
vast patches of Amazonian forest. On myweek long eating expedition, I try manyof them. We have one smoothie, for ex
ample , made wit h feijoa, also known as
guavas teen , which has notes of cucumber
and basil. Another spotlights guancibana,or soursop, which strikes me as the love
child of a coconu t and a banana. The lastan d best showcases mora, a purplish
berry with a sweetness and tartness allits own. When I later fmd mora jam in astore, I buy three jars and squi rrel them
away in my suitcase.Afterward, John insists we take a thirty
mi nute dr ive nor th to walk off all thosesmoothies in Bogota's old histo ric center, La Candelaria. It' s not so central any
mor e, and it's poorer and scruffier than
the areas of the city that tourists favor ,
but it has a special look and magic, wi th
a maze of narrow streets flanked by red roofed houses painted in a kaleidoscope
of colors. We linger in the main square,
admiring the tableau of the neoclassicalcathedral and o ther colonial-era build
ings against a backdrop of green moun
tain: Europe meets the Andes. Then we dip
into the nearby Botero Museum , housinga collection of about two hundred paint
ings, drawings, and sculp tures that wereeithe r done by, or belonged to , one of the
country's most renowned artists, Fer
nando Botero. It' s nearlyempty, and that,
coupled with its size, makes it unusuallymanageable and peaceful, not to mention
a prudent breather before the commotionof Gordo.
We go that night, and it 's packed with
fashionably dressed young Co lombians.Although the restaurant is na med forCastafto's dog, the rest of it pays tribute
to America. The tin ceiling is made of tilesimported from Brooklyn. On the far en d
of the packed bar is an enormous sign, al
most two stories tall, listing some of the
borough's best-known thoroughfares and
neighborhoods: Co ney Is land , BrightonBeach, DeKalb Avenue, BushwickAvenue.
Near that is a display of condiments eitherclassically American or in vogue in Brook lyn kitchens, including Heinz ketchup ,
Gulden 's mustard, and Kewpie mayon-
Word TripsByEmi ly Cox and Henry RaLhvon
EAST SIDE, WEST SIDE
In the middle of this crossword gr id, the east- west answer for 13 Across in tersectsthe north-south answer for 6 Down.Taken tog ether, these answers comprise fourwords that reveal a familiar sung-about locale-thesolution to this month's puzzle.
ACROSS
5 Island partner ofTrinidad
7 Captain Sparrowplayed by Johnny Depp
8 Hollywood Walk ofFame feature
9 Where Oslo is capital
11 Collector's13 See instructions15 Instrument played by
Orpheus16 Hop i home18 Mongolian desert20 Front of a ship21 Home state of Dorothy
and Toto
DOWN
1 Italy's shape2 Spain's Museo del
Prado site3 Partly open4 Wet qu intet including
the Indian6 See instructions
10 Epps, Sharif, orBradley
12 William who shotarrows
13 Typical plaza shape14 Folk tale, as of Sleepy
Hollow
17 Try for a strike
19 Lima or fava MAY'S PUZZLE ANSWER: See pag e 105.
~ Enter on ine for a c110nce lo win a spa weekend for two!
Enter your answer on ine at condenasttraveler.com/wordtrips/ july.No purchasenecessary Full ru lesand entry form ava1able on l1neatth1s address Allcorrect answers will be mcluded 1n a drawing for the annua lpnze a spa resort weekend for two (approximate retat!value,
$2,500).Entries must be received by 11:59 P_M_E.T.on July31. 2013, when the contest ends.Contest open to legal residents of the United
States and Canada (excluding Qu ebec) age 18 and older Oddsof winning depend on the numberofcorrect entnes rece1ved Answer will be
published 1n theSeptember issue. Sponsored by CondeNast Traveler, 4 Times Square,New York. New York 10036
CONDENASTTRAVE LER COM
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naise, a Japanese import that discerningNew Yorkers relish.
And the menu reads like a love letter toCastafio's favorite Brooklyn haunts (DuMont, Marlow & Sons, Prime Meats) and
American dishes (chicken wings, maca-
roni and cheese, grilled cheese). His friedchicken in particular impresses me. lt 's
juicy and crunchy in just the right com-
bination and could hold its own in any ofNew York 's five boroughs.
Gordo illustrates th e variety an d in genuity of Bogota's burgeoning crop ofrestaurants. Another night, John an d Iea t at one of the three locations of th e
two -year -old Burger Market, a chain ofeateries that has ratcheted up the Ameri
can an d European obsession with local
sourcing: It makes its pricey steaks an d
hamburgers with kosher beef from a local
university' s own crossbreed of Angus and
wagyu cattle, and its lettuce is grown hydroponically inside the restaurants them-
selves, on walls that turn roughage intoleafy de co r. The newest Burger Market,which opened in February and is the one
we visit, has cherry tomatoes dangling
like ornaments from vines that crawl up a
fence hemming the outdoorpatio. They'reused in salads, though patrons have been
known to furtively pluck two or three and
ea t them on their juicy own . (We ll , thispatron has.)
Without John I poke my head into Har ry Sasson, one of the most gorgeous res tau rants I've ever laid eyes on. It's named
for its in ternationally celebrated chef,
and a prior version of it existed for manyyea rs in a different spot a few miles away.But in mid -2011, as Bogota's fortunes
improved , Sasson relocated to a sprawl-
ing, regal manse built in t he 193 0s. Thedriveway in front curves around massive
trees more than a hundred years old. Thepatio in back, which has space for scoresof diners, is floored in gray marble an d
dazzlingly roofed by what brings to mind
a gargantuan modernist glass sculpture.Inside and upstairs is a bar made from
more of that signature marble, wi th three
ornate glass chandeliers from Turkey an d
stools upholstered in calfskin. Rarely hasa martini had such a sumptuous stage to
Word Trips
FOR TH IS M ON TH 'S CO NTEST, SEE PA GE 104
"Travel Tips" (May 2013)
PUZZLE ANSWER: THE FIRST LETTERS
SPELL TOWER OF PISA.
Answers to clues, in th e ord er in which
they're given: PUTTER, IRI SES, RANGER,
FLAMES, WINNER, SADDLE , OLIVER,
EASTER, ORANGE, TRAINS, ALI GHT.
CONDENASTTRAV CL ER .CO M
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Bogota
preen upon."I get travelers from the United States,
and they say to me, 'This is the best-kept
secret , '" Sasson tells me, and he' s refer ring not so much to the restaurant, whose
international menu has a more Continen
tal than Colombian bent, as to Bogota it self. "It's the nueva Colombia, we call it."
One of its g rea test bene ficiaries and
promoters is also one of th e country's
food-te levision stars, Leonor Espinosa,
nicknamed Leo. Since June of last year ,she has opened two fo llow - ups to the Bo
gota restaurant Leo Cocina y Cava, which
initially brought her international atte n tion. The frillier an d more expensive ofthese sequels is La Leo Coci na Mest iza,in the sleek new B.O.G. Hotel in El Lago.
Cocina mestizameans mixedcuisine, and
that phrase evokes the menu' s mingling
of various influences that have shapedt he country 's cooking-Arabic, Afr ican, Caribbean, and of course European.La Leo's hummus, for example, is madewith guandul, a less aggressively starchy
Colombian bean tha t yields a silkier pastethan ch ickpeas, and it 's scooped up not
with triangles of pita but with rice crackers that evoke arepas.
Her other new restaurant , Me rcado
on Parque de la 93, a modest urban greenam id Bogata 's bustle-is a more casual
showcase for her outspoken advocacy ofcooking with Colombian ingred ients. The
restaurant' s signatu re braised ch icken ,served in an enor mous porcelain po t
with four dipping sauces on the side, uses
plump birds from a nearby farm. Skewered cubes of opulen t bison mea t are alsolocally sourced and are indicative of the
quick ly improving quality of wha t Colombian far mers an d ranchers are produc ing . Since it' s lunch time and John and
I are trying to pace ourselves, we forgowine or beer an d instead order two ofMercado's house- made sodas, one with
strawberry and passion fruit , the other
with watermelon and basil. They 'r e fur
ther affirmation of the count ry' s fruityblessings.
That night we head to Usaquen, wh ich,like La Candelaria, is one of the few neigh borhoods in modern Bogota with the ar chi tecture of th e ci ty 's past. Unlike LaCandelaria, it has been transformed overthe last five years into a stylish playgroundfor th e increasing number of Co lombi ans with money to burn on restaurants
and bars. There's a branch of the ever expanding Bogota Beer Company, which
makes its own brews; three splashy megarestaurants (one Peruvian, one Italian, one
steak house) by the prolific Bogota restau rateur Leo Katz; and Bis trono my, which
106 CON DE NAST TRAVELER JULY 2013
belongs to the brothers Ma rk and Jorge
Rausch, celebrity chefs in Colombia whoseflagship restaurant, Criterion, is considered one of a handful on a sumptuous par
with Ha rry Sasson.But we're having dinner at Abasta, an
Usaquen pioneer that took root just be
fore the area's transformation, helping to
nudge it along. I've been told tha t Abast a
demonstrates a special commitment toCo lombia's delicious natural bounty, and
that's instantly clear from the devotionof about a quarter of the space inside the
two- story restaurant to a grocery store
that showcases the Colombian produce,grains, and meat being used in the kitchen. "All of this has been here all the time,"
Abasto's chef, Luz Beatriz Ve lez, says asshe s hows me around the store. Yelez isreferring to her country's indigenous in
gredients, which she tells me were over
looked and underappreciated fo r too long."We weren 't really aware of what we had.
We weren' t aware of its richness, its diversity. But that's changing fast." Ye lez then
takes me on a hike up the steep hill abovethe restaurant to its sp in -off, La Bodegade Abasta, wh ich ope ned about two yearsago in a warehouse - like space ini tiallyintended to be an artist's studio. La Bo
dega specializes in rotisserie chicken and
has equipment for roasting coffee beans,which Yelez does herself.
Back at Abasta , John joins me. The din
ner menu leans hard on seafood from Co lombia' s long coastline, which has both
Pacific and Caribbean stretches, and on
terrific vegetables. She slices fresh hea rtsof palm into strands of what looks like
fettuccine, then dresses a loose b raid of
them lightly with vinegar an d pink pep
per. She accessorizes seared octopus withcooked red and yellow peppers of exqui
site sweetness. We can see her toiling inthe ope n kitchen with th ree helpers. It'san all -wo men team.
Later she ap pears at our table to checkon us and to apologize: She can't work a
full shift tonight and has to leave, becauseshe has fo reign friends in town an d th e
restaurant she wants to show them is a bit
of a drive away.
"It's ca lled And res Carne de Res," she
te lls us , then asks us if by chance we've
heard of it.
John and I look at each other and smile.Oh yes, we have. And the way Bogota isbuzzing, we're bet ting t ha t plenty more
people will be hearing about it soon
enough. 0
CREDITSPage 8: From top: Courtesy Kingsford Homestead;
courtesy CN Traveler lnstagram, photograph by Su
san Hack; courtesy CN Traveler lnstagram. Page 10:
From left: Cou rtesy Peter Frank Edwards; courtesy
Tom Pa rker; courtesy Ba rbara S. Peterson, photo
graph by Paula Markow i t z Wittlin; courtesy Michael
Ruh lman, photograph by Donna Turner Ruhlman .
Page 14 : Bernd Jonkman ns/ laif/Redux. Page 20 :
Courtesy Domaine de la Bau me. Page 22 : From top :
Cour tesy Rajasthan; photograph by Greg Miller. Page
33 : Get ty Images. Page 40: iStockphoto. Page 56 :
Courtesy Quinary. Page 58 : Co ur tesy Mezcaleri a
Quiquiriqu i (2).
WHERE TO BUY IT"The Global Bar Hop": Page 55 : Her dress by Ro land
Mouret, $2,468 (Neiman Marcus stores nationwide
and ne t-a-por ter.com).
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