cook's illustrated 080

8/13/2019 Cook's Illustrated 080

1/36

U ,\ B \

L U - E D

Griled Lnn BroCheap Cut, Rich Flavor

MPtos

with Oliv Oi

Turte ro niesDark Chewy, and Rich

Mrc Chiken

llustrated uieto Cooking asta

Ratig VIe Creams

Is Natral Realy Better?

rill Tomto SsSmo Flavor in Mites

Testing Kitchen Tongs

No-Mayo Chicken Salads

Fish and Chips at HomePerfecting Veal Scaloppini

Bst trawberr ram a

www ck u t a t e d c m

$ $

, 7440 62805 , I


2/36

May June

2 Notes from Reders ead ers ask question s and suest solution s.

4 Qick TipsQ u ick and easy ways to perf or eved ay tasks frostoring root vegetables to oan iz ing easuring spoons .

6 Simplig orccaChicken ie consui ng techn iques and esoteric ingred ientsake cook ing authentic Moroccan chick en a dau ntingproposition. We had o ne hour and supermark et staples.BY MATTHEW CARD

8 Brnging Home Fish adChips estauran t version s of E ngland's favorite fast food arelymeasure up . B ut t ing it at ho e produced a grea ess.C ou ld we conq uer ou r fear of f ing? B S E AN L AWL E R

I 0 Grilled Tomato SlsaC ou ld we transfor o utof season to atoes in to a sweetand s o sal sa? B Y E R I N M C M U R R E R

I I Grle Londo BroilT hrowing a slab of cheap meat on the gril l so unds easy,but the result can be ore like chewing on a tire than ona n icely ch arred, tender steak . B DAVID PAZM I

4 Mai-Dish Veetble- t rfr ed vegetab es make a great sid ed ish, bu t can theytp t ta te as an en tree? B DAVID PAZM

16 ow o ook PasaC ook ing asta sees simplej ust oi l water and waitbu t cook ng perfect pasta takes so e finesse . H ere' s howwe do it B Y S E AN L AWL E R

18 Foolroof Veal Scaloppini u ermark et veal cut ets are a far c fro the de licatefare seed in restaurants. We set out to transfor th eseconven ien t cut ets fro to ugh to tende r.BY SARAH WISN

0 ew wis oCicke S lasA vina igrette is a great re edy for the ayo rut. I f on ly it

would cling to the chicken. BY REBECCA HAYS

1 rc a Oive Oise PottoesW e loved the id ea of add ing extravir in olve oi l and garlicto ou r mashed potatoes but n ot the harsh flavors andpas texture. BY SANDRA WU

2 Utiate rtle BrowniesD ark choc olate brown ies, rich and ch ewy cara el, andsweet pecans it s hard to go wrong with t rtle brown iesB ut it s even hard er to mak e them rightBY DAWN YANAGIHARA

24 Best Strawberr Crea akeW hat could ossibly rui n the h eavenly trio of cake, creaand ripe strawberr es? H ow abou t so cak e, bl andberries and squishy crea B Y E R I K A B R U C E

26 he Scoop o iaIce Crea ow abo ut a heapi ng bowl of guar gu and p ulve riz edspent vani lla pod s C an ice crea makers fool Motheratu re (and our tasters)? We scooped up 1 8 brand s to ind out. BY JN HETERMA

8 Te Tong ShowAre the new d esign features on some tongs mo re than j ustgi m ic? W e tested I pai rs to see if it was possi bl e to prove on this k itchen work horse. BY ADAM Rl ED

30 Kiche NotesTest resul ts, buyin g tips, and advice rela ted to stories pastand present d irectly fro the testkitchenB Y E R K A B R U C E

32 Equpet orner eviews of new ite s ud ates on past tests, and s ources or prod ucts used in this issue.B GARTH CLINGINGSMITH

AAN REEN O nce the province of special ark ets Asian greens are becomi ng co on

staples in soe supermark et prod uce aisl es. B ok choy is ild and cru nchy, with a h igh water

content; the crisp whi te stal requi re longer cook ing than the tender greens. T he d i in utive

aby bok choy can be used who le and is sl ightly sweeter than the ature versio n . Napa cab bage,with it s crinky, pa le green leaves, s prepared in uch the sa e way as o c hoy, and oth are

well suted to stirfries. C hi nese broccoli is si il ar in appearan ce and texture to broccol i rabe,

though its ild avor has ore in coo n with regular broccol i. T he at, pu ngent leaves of

C hi nese chives car a garlic avor that mellows when cook ed . M alabar spinac h and C hin ese

water spi nac h have a ild flavor and can e stirfried or eaten w in s alad s Tatsoi, with its i ld ly

bi tter, rou nd leaves, and iz un a, often fo nd in esc lu n salad greens, both ha il fro Jap an .

C hi nese parsley, better k nown in the W est as cil antro, co mprises the stes and l eaves of the

coriand er plant and is a coon ingred ient in both t n and Asian cu isines.COVER( pps Elizabeth Brandon. BACK COVER s John Burgoyne

r list renal informton, conact: Specialsts Maketing Seces. Inc 1200 Harbor Blvd, 9th Foor Weeawken, NJ 07087: 2018655800.Editoril Ofce 1 Saion St, Bookne, MA 0245: 617-2321000: f 617232172. Subscrpton inquiries ca 80028442.tmster Send a new ordes, subscrption inuiries and cange-ofaddress notces to Cook's ustated PO Box 746 Red Oak A 51910446.

COOK' T I [I>w.cklutratec

AMRCS Fuer a tr Chto he K

xecutve tr Jack BhoDeputy tr Joyo Hete

tra Maager Bk Ezaeth CaTet Ktche Drectr E McMeSer tr Bk Ja Co Da

o GavMaagg tr Rebecca Hay

Acate tr Bk Keth DeeAcate tr Ek Bce

Sea weSaa

Web tr ay McSwCpy Che Ia KoomaTet Ck Gath Cgg

Dav Pazm che ToomeDae UgeSah o

Atant Tet Ktchen Drectr Matthew HeAtant tr Bk Cha e Ke ey

Ezaeth ytra Atat Ezaeth Bom

Atat t the Pubher Me a Ba

tora te Meeth Sm Ktchen Atat Maa Eea DNaa DomeqEa Ge

Cntrbutg tr Matthew CaDaw Yaagha

Cnutg tr Shey CohGy CobyJoh DewaJae hteRobe t L. o

Prreaer Ho y Hatma

Deg Drectr y Kee Drectr Bk Caoy DeC

Ser Deger Web/Marketg Je BozzoSer Deger Magazne Heathe Bae

Deger Cht a SteChteVo

Sta Photgrapher Dae . va A

Vce Preet Marketg Dav MacCrcuatn Drectr B eFulent Manager Cae Ho

Crcuat Atat Ezaeth DaytDrect a Drectr Aam Pe

Pruct Drectr Steve Bowa-Cerce Marketg Maager Hgh Bcha

Marketg Cprter Dav GoeCuter Sece Maager acqe e Vae

Cuter Sece Repreetatve Je Ga e

Vce Preet Sale Demee GambReta Sae Drectr ao GeeMarint Coe FoePruct Drectr Gy ocho

Ser Pruct aager Jea . ur

Prject Manager Ae Fc Prouctn at Jeaette Mc

Matthew Syte Antratr Rcha Ca

Iteret Technl Drectr o Sh maWeb Prucer e Reco

Che Fnacial Ocer Shay ChabotCtrer May Shto

Sta Accuntat May SatooOce Maager Sayah A

Receptnt Heetta MPubc Deoah Bo

PINTED IN THE


3/36

ALL THE NEWS TAT FITS TE PRIN

In the event that some of o have becmweay of m idl ic presenttion ofVemont contr life, I offer a seis ofmoe nbiased and histoical l precis

sciptions taken from a local nespaper tha t hascods daing back to 8 Kathy Wagnr, ono neighbors, assemled the rlevant clippi nsd pbished them in a small ooklet.Befoe I eave o in the capable hands f

e farmes, doctos, wies, cle rmen, and ot , I wod smpy qote Calvin oolidge, whd, [Vermontes] ae a ace of pionees whove almost beggaed themselves in the svicothes. f the spiit of ibet shold vanish

m othe parts of or Union and th spporto institutions shold langish, it cld alleplenished fom the genes stor hel b

e people of the brave li ttle state of Vron . "may indeed be time, as Coolid aptl pected, tha t o nation shold look to this haryce of pioneers to eplenish o sadl depletedoes.

September4, 1867:"C. B. H itchcock, the noteoodchck hnte, is slaghteing a l age nm of the vemins this season, having aleaded pwad of."October 15, 1867: . Hitchcock otdone. A

n of. Hawood, aged 4 yeas . . . has caght. with the aid of a dog, 29 wodchcks. "November 19, 1867: noticed an aticle in the

urnal entitled . Hitchcock otdone. Now. that is not the whole tth. The facts ae

ese eymo Hawood, aged 4 eas, hasght dig the pesent season 320 woodcks. Last yea he caght 250 in 85, d in 84, 9 , making in the fo seasons Respectlly yos, subscier."December 22, 1868: A corespondent witesncening the chaacte of a spiitalist whcentl visited town. Her lec tes wee bod anden attacks pon the Bile and the religion of

hist. h le the town with a cowded waletd a smiling face."

teart t iing hlas of th da ar ovts that havnt any sharts sta t ho an m

16, 76 Bis having tnihtl hohis hom, her, fr ths f a cple manil the wee mall horntil the ae all in a msat .

Novembn' , 70: A i l storm abot t h rt f tpass v tl st and nrthpart of ton. ihr aot i his l hin a tht im, th trm cing sdenl, he b rrwe a cckf ha r prtction. rettingthe te of tts [sic} wif wholook back o e t sm fr n t citis f the lin,he kd t isct ino tmsti of nt an acrtinthe state f th wath, whr

t a lln 7, 177: er

pn a on mi sil o t clo tok fctpn the exsd pat, nt a trati ina pill of salt, t a anoamic i f all stars f the ramn t a n vl nof th b mp f vnatio. h cns nc ,hoev, nt ve serios lasting. "

obr 22, 170: A ck oftrs beloning to a . arbe rcentl w fr a bi hillot ove th valley in hich his h os stands ncam ith sc h veoci he gron hat 2 ofthem ee kille. "

y 13, 171 nchest joa inerI cen yew inklosd one llar to a lastearz paper I n t r e ne bt yew m

koncid m a sbscrib f the nbrs all sathe lffto s it on t shelf thare an mch seabot o paer o the wst cide bt e astcidrs tawk of etin p a b to get the aprche."

Agst 15, 1872 The Congrgational hrchis noccpied this sasn, th ethdists frsome eason havin iled t snd a acr."

nry 2, 1873: Recentl a man nameTwsle as seriosly ijed at R. S. rdscicla saw mill . is jw as boen an d his ssmashed. A intimat acqaintace wit a cicla saw when in motin is not ver siable. "

J 15, 175: r. Editr Not ch rthy of note has transir ed vr her amn thhills . The bs genrall n tie tk ti

pl hav th imp

that wls ill nt eat th e tat bg, bhmas aes f this plac sa his rostein arun amng his ptates an sppthat the l llw was diging tm p,him, an ning th gllt ve mch distned it and n d herin l 0 veritable bs. . aes thinks nw that he killbt ien."

My 1,7 In times ofold, he n mewise and womn re bl d, hen bil ls wr cdit shte, when om malt the bgd pter, lived . atkins. ike an i his prssin, he had a good pactis a ba nanci e, a por collect r ho s

std to the law t collect a debt. Bt ne ccasion se a . C, who had resd to a and who, the doc to spposeandanl able. The ct obtained jdgr. wn jail , stae his six das, swo(aree d t py his dbts ) as the called it, aa as sal. t was wite an tle snop and th doctr hose, old hitey, gth wron track, the deep sqaeoxed ran p on to a high snow drift, overt neactally iprisone the od doct. The cal r. happened t be passing that warighte matters at once, feeing the doctor.was leaving he aed, Dctor, how olhav got t ith t help The dcto coan aid, IId a swre t.

OR INQUIRIES ORERS OR MORE INFRMATION: COO KS IUTD Magazne.cooksiusraed.co ooks s magaz n (ISS 1 068 28 2 1 ), nu m 80, pu l mont

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n you magaz n u c pt on J o n t W t a n you ll av acc to 1 ya of ooks 2006 B o ton o mon P L mt tn p. Po cal potag pa at Botoncp, cooa t t ng nt ta t ng, an mo . an a t on al ma l ng of c, USPS #0 1 24 87 POSME R: S n a ang to

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A l


4/36

F D

M Lsometimes see meat at te supermarket labeled

ea" or extra lea " Wat do tese terms reallyea?

KENIN COOMA

GENVIE I.

Accordig to the S Departmet of Agr-ulture's Food Safety ad Ispectio Service,e terms lean ad extra lean are used ot oly

meat but aso poultr ad seafood to co- iormatio abo ut fat cotet, iludi g te

mout of total fat, sa turated fat, a d co lestero ler 00gram servig about 3 ouces) Aea" desigatio meas the produt otaiswer ta 0 grams of total fat, 4 grams ofturated fat, ad 9 milligrams of olesterol

er servig Extra lea" idicates fewer tagrams of total fat, 2 grams o saturated fat,

d 9 mil l igrams of colestero per servigolloig tese rules, 9 3 percet lea groud

eef woul tecial l be cosidered ea,"ile extra lea" beef would ave to be morea 95 pere lea) Tese desigatios ca

e used for a cut of meat as log as te packe rcludes utritioal iformatio o te abel

Whether tey appear at all, owever, is up t o tedividual packig compa

Wat's the best way to freeze baked cupcakes?ASON SAC COE

JERSEY CIY N. J.

We freezig baked cupcakes, we wated toevet te commo problems of freezer bur,

ryess, ad gummy tops Because the textured cosistec offrostigs ad icigs a cage

astically i the freezer, oly plai (ufrosted)upcakes soul be froze Oe tawed, tey be topped or decorate d as desiredWe tried several methods of storig, freezig,d thawig our favorite ellow cupcakes We

oze themiivi dually a i groups of fourfour differe t ways: i a plast ic zipperl ock

ag wit most of the air removed, i plasticrap, i foil, a i plastic wrap ad fol A erweek i te freezer, we took te cupcakesut to thaw o te coutertop for ourstil they reaced room tempe rature; a lf ofach sample was kept wrapped ad te oterlf uwrppd

awig te cupcakes wrappedwetherclosed i foil, plastic wrap, or both or le

a zipperlock bagallowed codesatio

to form betee te wrapper ad te tops,which tu red gooe Tose tat were urapped

before thawig wer as good as ew I terms oftaste, tere was little to dfferetiate oe stor-age metod rom aoter For loger eriodsof storage, were te likelihoo of freezer burcreases, we recommed doublewrappig cup-akes i plastic wrap ad foil (i groups or idi-viduall ) before placi g tem i te freezer Admake sue to uwrap them befor tawig EgWh Wat is your piio about usig l iuid eggwites i desserts tat call for ma egg wites?I ofte feel guilt about trowig away a buof olks

BARBARA HAR

YARMOUH P OR MASS .

We puchased tree widel available brds ofpasteurized li uid egg whiesPapetti Foos AllWhies, Eggolog 00% Egg Whites, ad Eggeaters Eg Witesad tested tem agaistregular egg wites i four recipes : agel foodcake, baked merigues, I talia merigue frostig,ad scrambled egg wit es Te Pap etti Foods adEggolog products otai just egg wies; EggBeaters otais small amouts of xatha gumad triethl citrate, whc, acordig to the label,

eace wipig"Eac sample varied i the amout of time it

took to ip u to so ad stiff peaks (some-times takig to tree times as log as freswites, eve we beate at a iger seed) O f all three brads, te cloudlokig PapettiFoos product (hich, to its redt, is labeledot rec ommeded for merigu es or agel foodcake") was te least cosistet, eedig te mosttime to wip up ad oly occasioally acievigstiff peaks I coast, Eggolgy was mstly opar with fres egg whites Te Egg eaters fellsomewere i betwee

I all four applcatios, te apetti Foods ad

Egg Beaters produts iled o perform as well

WHITES, BUT NO YOLKS

: i ={

Are pasteurized egg wtes as good as te real t i ng

K I S R A F

as Eggology The Papetti Foods almost deated ito a soupy mess aer oter i

ets were hipped or fold d i, rederapplicatio excet the scrambled egg habject failure Te Egg Beaters producedmerigues but had a slgty hemica awhe scrambled

Overal, Eggology as e closest to whites Te mergu es a scrambled eggtasted idetcal to the rea hing The ossligtly less uf ad more stiky ad slite origial but stil acceptable Te agake, however, faled miserabl Atougabout ich shy of the 3ichg cakwith fres whites, the cake ade it Egad a suke ceter, sizeable slimy ar ptroughout, ad a dese, gumy bottomMoldy hAsde from heese tha t cotai s ultivatedis it safe to eat cees e tat as grow moldas I cut off the affect ed areas?

ER

HOUSON

We spoke to ar eith, foo a aget at the Uiversty of Florda ExtServie, to get some aswers to your uAorig to eith, ha rd chees es ca gee

salvaged, bt so heeses caot The tote tpes ofmold that gro o eeses arewatersoluble, so they usuall aot trabeyod the surc of harder heeses wmoisture levels

To remove sure mol rom a hardsuh as heddar, the geeral le s to cuvisible mol d as well as a i of the surroarea, beig carel to keep the kife outmold itself to prevet rosscotamaother areas of the hee se Of course, thioly ifyou have a big piece of cheese Sm a wic te mod has grow o muipsould be discarded

Sof ceeses suc h as goat hee se, Camembert ad wet , curdlike cheesas ricotta or cottage cheese should ecosumed oce mo Be of te toxis roduce by tese u cumolds are watersolub le, the a easibeeath the surfae of these ig meeses ad cot amiate th e rest o tuct eeses tat are jecte wit mas blue ceese, shou ld be discarded ostart becomig slimy or soer tha uexhibitig strage odors or colors


5/36

Our advce is ever o buy more ceese au ca use oe or wo weeks; e moser eeese, he uicker i will spoil As for sorigos leover ceese, we have foud a wrap-g i i parchme paper ad he i foil is heos efecve meod, bu a sealed zipperlockg is a very close (ad muc easer) secodcever eod you coose, e chese s besp e crspe r drawer of e refrigeraor Oe

ore g: Freezg does' kill mold ileeezg g slow dow e mold 's grow, ill o desroy ay o e oxs e mold haseady produced

Fna's e differece bewee 2 miu e, ue, ad isa aria?

CHARLOTE HURD

CMBERAND FORESIDE MAINE

Faria is a blad our or meal mad rom edosper (he sarchy par) of e wea kel

d mille ad sied io a e graular co-ecy resemblig sa dred yeas or beigrmeal We cooked i boilig waer ad

mmered uil ickeed o 2 miues),ra becomes a proei rc o breakfas cereal e uckercookg varees are reaed w azyme (papa, derved from papayas) or wisodium pospaeWe ried e followg four ypes of pla i fariareal, wih cookig mes ragig fro o mi ues: Cream ofWhea isa o cereal,

W ?

Cream o ea Miue riced Faria,Crea o ea 2Mie iced Faria,ad aria Mills iced Faria (2 miues)While he Cream ofhea isa o creal wasoiceably salty ad mus, w ug e oerree producs wr u s ePast ow is pasry our difere from cake our?

Wa types f recie s dos i work bes i?AN N DORF MAN

NEWTON MASS

Pasy our is a so wea our wi a preicoe bewee se of allrps ur adcake our is oe used i pie crs ad edrpasries ereas allupose our is 0 2 er-ce roei , cmes lacd or leace d, ad isa bld of ard ad so we os, cake ou is o 8 percet roi ad is ad so weaour ha has be l aced fe r weak proe (wic is wa gives baked gods ir

srcre ad cew) Pas ur is o 0 rce roei ad, i k cake r, is ad from wa lour (bu is usuall o bleaced)

ried sig asr our i a cifo cak,scoes, pie crus, ad sgar cokies asers lauede asry our for givig e i cru s a aky, dl icae exure well sie d or liig e boom alig lmo mrigue cream ie e eallyburric scoes, pasry ou coribueda der, sligly crmbly, lig b coesive"exure did' far so

I reenly moved ino an aparmen wih a kihen dwer full of uensils lef ehi nd

y he fomer enans ame aross his amoo ool wh ih l ook li ke some sor of

whisk. Wha is i used for?

N ENRY ICEPIDEPHIA, PA

he iem you've found is a chasen, a ea whisk aed from a si nle piee of amoo

ha is used o prepare he matcha (a ier hi h-qua li sone-oun d een ea powder

seed in diional Japanese ea eremonies e n um e and hikness of he splin es va dependi ng n he on

siseny of he ea and whe re i will e seed . e foun d

s ea whs, r chasen, s used mae

a rhy bwl f macha (green ea)

sevel plaes onl ine o uy his ea whisk; see he soue

on pae 3 2 for purhasin i nformaion

he asi p roedure for preparin maha is as follows:

Plae a small amoun (aou easpoon of he eenea powder ino a ea owl chawan using a ma ha easpoon (chashak). (For less fomal ome u se a measu rin spoon and a lae lae up or deep soup owl make

deen susiues Nex p our o 6 ounes of ho (u

no o ilin waer over he ea. Genly whisk he ea and

ho wae oehe o dissolve he maha. One i is d is

solved hold he wisk veriall so ha i arely ouheshe oom of he owl and move i riskly ak and

forh unil a frohy layer develops on op. Slowly li andremoe e wisk ea is sere

b N

well i e oer wo recies,owever Te cookes spreadoo i ad became morecrisp ha cwy, wile hechiffo cake did' rise asig, was sl igly gummyo e boom ic, ad ada eggy ad creamy raera g ad f exue

NO SUBSTe also ried es recies ut fine forwi wole grai asry our(illed wi all of e bra icluded), buers geerally disliked e odd" browweay" avr ad gralar" exrefour baked goods mae wi is our

he ed, w recommed buyig pasry our for he eder, a ky xure i o ie crus, ar asry, scoes, ad oelarly buery baked goods (suc as biscusrbread) b would sop s or of subsi or cak our i cakes or allpurose cookieseheatin Pzz've oiced we reheaig le over pizzove a e crus is crispier we reeaparcme aper ha o foil y is is

CAO

PITSBR

Before aswerig uesios abou ve eris of fol ad parcme, we o es differe ecues for reaige sared by esig re meods: izza o a preeaed bakig soe, o a see, ad di recl o e ove rack a

see ud r


6/36

Quick Tips C 0 PI LED Y D V ' Z i

Handy Prep upsW sma c d en w ge ts

nes an d sneezes Kery Rman Pueb C as s pasc

ughsyup cu ps Sh e saves these

ups t measue u (and d)

ma amunts ebs spces and

e ngedens n pepaatn

ckngwa e Fenc ca

ise e pe

e ut tops Hereatng hnese ood sn t the only useor wooden chopstcks Luse Bollebe r

ochester Mnn . puts the to woks a gude when c uttng decotvetawber ans to se as a ga sh.

ace a chopstck on a c ung boa rstraghtsded chopstck work best).oston a strawbe n rot o thehopstck. H old ng the chopstck andhe stwbery wth one h an sl cehrough untl the kne hts the choptck. ontnue akng /nch -ckces annng the slces on a plate

Putting Down Rootsed o watch ng he gnge caots and bee ts spol n the vegeabe dwer rrrzabalaga o Moscow Id ah o gued out how to keep these root vegetal es usa bleor several on ths

I. 2.

I. Fl l a plastc contaner or clay pot wth cean d sand . Bu gnge carrots orbeets n the sand and store the contaner n a dark cool cu pboard o n therergerator2. When youre ready to use a vegetale ust ush o the sand and peel

cratc les s teamingRate tan scracng e saucepan's nnstck suface wt e meta

egs a steame nsert Amy Wams G ens de ptects t wpacmen pape

I.

2.

I. Cut a p ece f pacment te nsde yu saucepan F w I nc waer2. Pace e seame nse n p te pacme n Bng a smme andseam yu d ben g caeu n t e a e wate evaprate

We wll provide a complimentary one-year subscription for eac tip we prnt end your tip nme and address touc Tips Coos llustrated P Box , Brooline MA , or to qu ictip@bcpresscom

Lumpree PolentaT avd u nng u um py pand t ceea Jn Baet Wakefed Mass rees n s

unne

I Aer brngng te qu d t asmmer cse e bm

a funnel wh yur nge hen

w te p en ta mea ce

caed f n yu ecpe

2. Wh e unne n ne andand a wsk n the the pene and et te gans swy p

nt e t b ng qud wun te unne s emp and tgans ae smy mxed

Measuring poon RoundMeasurg spoons oen coe w rngs that end up breakng Wexer o Chcago l l oun d thasple splt key ng keeps pootogether n o atter how any tthey go through the d shwasher.

C K S


7/36

leaner queeze Topsqueezebottle tops can get caked

with ketchup mayonnaise or mustardusan Friesen o Abbotsord B. anada ashes the tops rom empottles and stores them in a d rawer

When the top o a n ew bottle gets she un screws it replac es it withclean one and throws the dir topto the di shwasher

\'

\\Presei ng You r ookbooksWhen he pages f he cbk

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Quick Tomato-eedRemoval

xanne Su mmer o ocil le Md . uses the serted edes o a graperuitspoon to cut out the seeded portiono tomatoes ater qu artering the m.Sh e in ds this m ore eective thanusing a regular spon an d l ess messythan usin g her ingers.

Makesit Roasting Rack

NoMess Tomato opp ingnsead f chp png whle canned

maes n a cung bad andendng up wh ma juce al lve he c unep Ken sh

f Maynad Mass cus hem

up gh n he can wh a pa f

chen scsss

xploiting te opoleMany kitchen towels cme with a

sewn int the hem. nda Brown edmnd Ore keeps a towel atready by hang ing it rom a bu ttonhas sewn i nto the waist o her aporthat purpose.

cking a metal rasting ck that its her roasting pan Lydia Ma o ancuver B an ada makes do with al umi nu m oil

I . oll three pieces oil in to tight cylinders an d place them 2 i nches apar acrss he mid dl e he rasing pan2 Position the ch icken so that it sis evenly atop the cylind ers. On ce the chi cken is inished c ooking cool the oil rlls and d isc

A


8/36

Siplifying ooccan CickenTime-consuing techiques and esoteric ngredients ake cookng auhenic

Moroccan chicken a daunting propositn. We had one hour and superaket stapl

Whe mos people hikof orocco, he evi-sio dus souks, spidlmiares , ad me i

owig djellabas o me hik wih somach ad see agie Tages areoicall sic ed asse rivel avored sews

owcooked i e arhe ware vesses of heme ame The ca iclude all maer

f meas, vegeables, ad frui, hough madsdow favorie combies chickeh bri olves ad ar lemo While I love agie , i's o a dish I ever

oceived of as merica home cookg Wh? The few radiioal recipes I

ad see reuired ime cosumig, laboresive cookg mehods, a special oe agie ), ad hard od igrediesm usuall game for a da i he kiche a hu for exoica, bu is' agie, a mos elemeal level, jus sew? lle research proved ha I was'e rs o ake a sab a makig agieore accessible While mos ofe recipesried lacked he deph of a auheic

3 M TT C E

CooH meo d for bra ised chickekep he dis h free of ru bber sk

Spices and Suc lage sliced oo ad a few garlic cloves rouded ou he bavors of he sew, ad I alread o ackle he deig ies spices, olives, ad lemo recies called for a spice bed cael haout which aslaes oosel of e shop" ad ma co ai up30 spices I expeimeed wih arage of spices uil I laded o a was shor o igredies bu llavor Cumi ad giger le depamo brugh wamh a emplile caee hea, ad cirus coboosed he sew's lemo avor added sweeess bu, perhas morea, colored he bro a deep ared Thoroughl oasig e spcesoil brough ou le deph of a

gie, he did ol d promise, provig haWeser cooig meod (braisig i auch ove) was a serviceable subsiuio

We used the spces and cooare already n o ur cup boards to create anauthentc-tastng Moroccan tagne n ess than an hour

Fdig he righ olive provedha I aicipaed Big, mea,

orocca olives were he obviousfor he sew, bu he were a rariof m local markes Oher meaolives, l ike azail la, Cerigor sewig for hours i a agi e I also dis-

vered a e avors I assoc iaed wi oroccaookig were' ecessar il exoic "he were araegic bedig of igredies I alread had i cupboard

Cicen in Ee Potmos all of 1e recipes I colleced speced aole cickebroke dow io piecesad Io foud ou wh Baches made eirel wihie mea lacked he dep ad characer ofose ma de wih a bled of dark ad whie

Bu whe I cooked he whie ad dark meahe same wasmmered parall submergedbrohe whie mea ured dr ad srig

llig ou he whie mea whe had jusooked hrough solved maers, bu he closeeio reured was bohersome There ad be a ea sier waTha's whe I hough of carros T he were

dded o ma of he recipes I had foud ad,cu large eough, could raise he wie mea

eces above he simmerig broh So I p iled sev

eral large carro pees ito e bom of he powi he dark ma ad se e wie mea o opWih hs mehdad a vemiue ead sarfor e dark meaall he icke was erfeclcooked ad rea a e same ime

Some recipes called fr rbbig he chickewh lemo ad sal ad lig e mea mari aebefore cookig; hers emled sal aloe orbleded wih spies f a addig spicesa his poi resled i a mddavored broh

iall, while leavig he ski he mea obrow i gave e braisig liud a de avor,pulg i off before simmerig (he sadard

Lucues, were eiher oo mld or oo aso mach he oher avors i he sewcracked" olives, owever, ased grea aeas o d (See Kiche oes, page 3he resuls of ou gree olive asig) Wadded he ol ives he sew oo soo , heleached ou io he braisig luid, rehem blad ad bier Sirrig i he oliva few miues before servig proved aapproach, as h y reaied heir piuaa rm exure

The lemo avor i auheic agiesfrom preserved lmo, a logcured o

Rasn te ase hen bising chi

-ck_e_npa_s

-it_c_a_n_b_e_h_a_r_d_t_o_k_e_e_pth

w_h

te

_

TE_M

E___

meat from tuing d ad strin. e solved this problem

by layering the dar meat into the pot fit addig a layer of

carrots then setting the white meat o top of the carrots

e proppe-up white met sts above the bising liqud and

coos a a getler pace than the dar meat below the suace

K S S R D

CARROTS

DARKMEAT


9/36


10/36

Binging Hoe Fi an iRestaurant versions of Engand 's favorie as food rare y easure up Bu rying it at h

roduced a greasy ess. Cou d we conquer our fear of frying?

a rt visit to odo, was rlutat to joi ththrogs uuig up orEglad's most famous fast

ood: battrfried sh, dupd oto amoud f frid potatoes d dousd withmalt vigar ut wh th ood arrivd,m attitu hagd lik a red

sh platter ' ver orderd fro a sa-id shak, this o had larg pis ofhik od that wre moist, dliat, adtill steaig iside a risp ad tder

oatig Ad, ulik fastfood fris, thhis" wer ut thik ad servd uprisp, wit h so i teriors

Wth sh adhip shops ike that oe ever orr, ost Britos would'tother with the hassl ad mss of dep-

rig sh at hom ut if watd to re-rat m Lodo expri statsid, ad other hoie, giv the mediorersios oud i most Amria pubs

Alog th wa, I eded to gu outow t orgaie the prss so thatthig mad it to th tabl at oe

B Y ! spie a d a sri kl of paprika ishd the deal

Ch ip pi ng AwayA ri developd ars ago aormd wha t eur ikows ll: Th best ries ar twi Th're blahed" itpraue oi to k t the ished i hottr oil to outsides o a golde brow to blah th ris, tur up the the oil ad fr th sh, th kpwarm whil th is ished

Batter Upsur how would rsol tis logisti

e ach eved the deal contrast o l ght crsp exteror and mo st n teror bycareully constuctng our batterand our cookng sequence

Ther wer two problems wpla First, th sh was ot as had bee before suspted theoil was th probl: The 3 popotatos had alrad dumpd oil rleasd a lt o moistur, mwhih bubbled away as stam bof whi re maid i t h oil , diad thus dimiishig its ability tthigs isp The oil was i vediti ar th sh ha fried

xarbated th seod probleblahd, ovrsid fris took 0 miuts to t ur golde brorisp, b whih ti me th ooligal hlleg, didd to fus rst o

lopig a rip for a battr that wuld pr-orm two importat tios First, prottio

A i o pla i sh droppd ito hot l verooks almost istatl While a oatig of ourr brad rumbs roides a modium of ese,wet batter is te bst dse baus it o-

ltel oats th sh, allowig it to stam gtl as oks Sod, th battr must form a oatig

ha t prvids risp otrast wit th moist sh the b ulk of the rips surved, th battr

usual a ix of our ad ber) xldt th rst task ad ukd the sod Th shame out mist, but the otig was brad adhik Wors, as the s h draied o paper towls,t otiud to produe stea; miut s latr, thrust was falli g off the sh t ried thi ig t h

batter with more br so that lss steam wouldb trapped, but that br ought ew problems T hequid i th battr bega to boil almost immeitel upo hittig the oil, ad the oatig faildo survi

ould't thi the battr, prhaps I ould

adjust its strutur bious ulrit behidth bread ttu as glut, th prti thatgis br its strutur hat if rplad somofth allupos r with a starh tht ds'tdvlop glt? rious tsts ld m to a 3:ratio f our to star his thir (bu t otwttr) mixt sriv th ht oil ad id upris ial l, a tsoo f baki g d r ratd ti bbbls i th batter, giig th atiga airir txtur

problm ligrd Whil th txtur ofth oatig was grat, it ted to pff awafrom the sh as it frid, ulti matel akig of ilarg pis ith the rst bit had b drig th sh wll ad dredgig it i beforebattrigthis mat to stop this rmhaigbut it was still a rblm triedspradig xtra ur a bakig sht, ad,ar drdgig a battri ah pi oatdth sh with our agai Suess! Th rsutigoatg hd a slightl rmbl, irrgular txturethat l ug tightl to th sh A bit of a for

C "

svra miuts past its rimA ollague had deloped a rip f

lt potatoes that ivolvd rst arookiptatoes i a mrwav Could parois to gt rid of som f the xess watth otatos hit th oil? Ys, but i mirto log (uti l mpltl tdr ), th e thbga to ruble ad fall apart hstill hav to blah th oil, but the mihead start lt m blah at a highr tmp

partiall browig the fries i adva truial miuts o o the al ig trthr imrov the ualit o the oi l, I trig som fresh oi to th o u ee rsh ad foud th ri sss of the al pto b greatl iproved

Ths pathwork methodaltratish ad th ries (se Reip Shortha9 )was uik ad as, ad it resultedad his that wre doe i s Fialla ripe to keep me satisd util m aross the Atlat


11/36

F I S H A N D C H I P S

S E R V E S 4E u 1 P M E r T E s r 1 N G Hig-End Deep Fyes

k our smoger o remove e i ai l por-s of e s For safe, use a Du ove a le as a 7 uar apai A ber wil lork i his recipe, eve oalcooli beer, wie exepio of dark sous ad ales Srve wiadiioal mal viegar or wi arar saue

pound ruet potatoe (ab out 4 age potatoe).

peeed , end and ide quared off, and cut

engthwie into in ch by i nch fie

(ee Kitchen Note, page 0, fo detaied

intruction)

qua rt pu cup peanut oi or canoa o cup a p urpoe four

cup corntarch

teapoon cayenn e

teapoon papri ka

teapoon ground ba ck pepperTabe a t

teapoon baking powder pound cod or other thick white fih fi et, uch

a hake o haddock, cut in to eight oun ce

piece about inch thick

cup ( 2 ounce) co d bee

. lae cu fries i large mirowaveable bowl,ss wi cup oi l, ad over wi plasic wrapicrowave o ig power uil poaos areriall rasluce ad pliabl b sill orme resisae we piered wi ip of parigife, 6 o 8 miu es, ossig em wi rbbe raula ala roug ookig ime Carl lll bak plasic wrap from side res from

u ad dra poaoes io l arge mes sraie r over sik ise well uder old ruigaer Spread poaoes oo kie owels ad dr Le res uil room empe raue , a le as mi ues ad up o our2 Wile fries ool, whisk our, osar,ee, paprika, pepper, ad 2 easpoos sal

rom st tests we now decent dee fer cn e

hd for less thn $80 Send more nd ou l l get fnc

fetures l e ol fltrton sstems But wht bou t bscerfonce To fnd out we embred on french

f mrthon wth sx hghend modelssterbultTur Surf ($ 1 99 9 5) Den ult Fer ($9 99 9)

Deongh Dul Zone ($9995) Wrng rofessol

($ 1 29 95 ) T-F l U lt mte EZ len ($ 1 1 9 9 5 ) nd

Deongh ool Touch ($ 1 29 95 ) lus our fvorte

nexensve mode the Oster Imeron ($799 5 )

ll the models tued out ts freseventull

The dfference between good erormnce nd grethnged on ol cc The more cc the les

severe the temerture dro once the food ht the o

wh c h l l owed for fewer tches n d qu cer recove

etween btches For nstnce the serbu lt whc h

holds 2 gl lons of o l (enough to f 1 -ou nd tur

e ) d roed 3 degrees when we dded ou nd

BEST BUY GAS G U ZZ LERe Oster mmersion e Masterbuilt ($ 1 99 .9 5 )

( $ 7 9 .9 5) oers al te ryer was te best perormer butyou need or most recipes. required ots o oi l .

i larg mixig owl; rasfr f ixro rime bakig s Ad bakig power obowl and wisk o obi

3 . In av boomed ove , a2 ars oil vr mdim a 350 dgrsAdd fries o oil a iras a o ig r,sirri wi ms spir or slo meal spo ,uil poaos li gl a s gn r a oers, 6 8 mis rasr iso ik papr ba or papr owls o drai

I P H O T H A D 1 Y ensure tht the fsh nd ch s re done t the sme tme we crfted ths seq uenc e of stes tht lso m n m zes mess

MCROWAVEPOATOES

R N S EPOTATOES

FRYPOTATOES

FRYF S H

FRY POTATOESAGAN

Mcrowve ol- tossed ottoes unt l softened nd l le 2 Rnse ottoes under cold runn ng wer nd t drF ottoes n 3 50-degree ol u nt l ju st begn nn g to brown dd more ol o the o he t ol to 37 5 degrees

d f fsh u nt l golden brown Return fres to o l nd co o unt cr s nd golden

l I ) )

of fres n contrst the De ongh oo l Touch w

uses mere 1 3 q urt (t rottes food n to ndof the ol ) lost whong 1 degrees Whtmens n rctcl terms s tht the sterbulteectvel coo n entre btch of fres; b he the smll est model fn shed ts fou rth rtl btch

rest of the fres were sog nd l m

Eve mode ws equed wth ult n the

stn esentl feture to our mnds But odeluxe fetures seemed extneous Trnsren

re n ce n th eo but qucl rendered useless b

ntng stem -s so-cl led EZ lenthe ol tered nd drned n to contn ers nthn g but

Ide l we d f our fres n on e btch but o

2 gllons of ol nto the sterbult seems exces

If ou dont often fr fsh nd chs the Osterche models l l ou rell need

F LTER ED OU TTe T-Fal ($ 1 1 9 9 5) ad a

ancybut unnecessaryoitration system.

Grth lngngs

S MALL FRYe De ongi Coo-($ 1 29 .9 5) was innov

but aced capacit

4 e a o medim ig, add ring ar of oil, ad ea il o 37 Meanwi l , ugl r s wi pap

ls ad drde a pie i our mixakig s ; rasfr pi cs wire racking off exs or Ad ups ber ixre i mixig bowl ad sir il mis combid (bar will b lmprmaiig br as d, l ablspoim, wiski aer ea addiio, ills om isk i i , sa srm adi rail arss s of baer sigip ie s in bar a l xess rakig gl lae bar s babaki s wi our mixu a b ids pa wi rmaiing s, k

pies i sigle laer o bakig s5 oil raes 375 egrs, ia i a add ar s ongs, gl sakig ff xss or rig casiall, uil goln brow mius Trasr s ik papr papr owls drai Allw il o r35 dgrs

6 A all i s bak o oi l a fr uilbrow a risp, 3 o 5 mis Trafrs papr bag r apr owls o drai is wi sl o ase a sr immwi


12/36

oato Saaould we transor otof-season toatoes into a sweet and sok salsa?

Gille tomato salsa sous terric opape Who ca ague with the ideaof pairig traitia sals as spicy heata brightess with the smokysweet

vrs that come fom a uick stit o the gri l?practice, however, fou th is recipe les s allur

g Skis charre a cule o tomatoes stuckthe cookig grate, a most versios a littleoke avor B ut eve th ese isappoitig testsl promise f cou gure out a way to gete grile avo ito th e tomato without losigost of the tomato i the process, this recipeoul be a ge at way to trasform medio cre out -seaso tomatoes ito someth ig trul specialFirst up, tomato choice Beefsteak tomatoesre too atery C herry tomatoes were rm adeet, but chasig them aroud o the gril wasosig propositio Pum tomatoes were the

eatiest of the buca therefore the bestted to grilig Because they could take theat for a loger pei od of time, t he could alsoke o more gille avor rst trie gili g the plum tomatoes whole,t it was har to get a decet sea al the wa

oud itout losig most of the ski alvig seedig the t omatoesa thereby exposigice the surface area to the grillpoduced a

sa ith much more gri ed avor, but it as too ext trie halvig the tomatoes but leavige seeds i; this approach yiele a salsa withcet texture a grille avor, but was osiga aout o esh throu gh the cookig grate

grillig the alves cut sie dow rst, teppig tem oce we carameize, the skie as a cradle that helpe d keep the esh i tactte tomatoes cotiue to cook ad soe tried grille a raw versios of e, wite ,low, a gree oios Tasters ike the reios for their sweetess, ad tey like them

wteir fresh bite adg a ice cotrast to teess of te gril e tomatoes Whe i t came to

es, owever, tasters preferred the deep avorgriledot rawjal ape os o had a tomato salsa with good grile a-r, but tasters wated more tured to smok-

g, adig a foi pack et of soake oo ch ips toe ot coals But because the tomatoes cookeduickl the foil ecased chips i 't ave the

me they eeded to poduce eough smokeext I tied doi g away with the foil packet asse the soake cips directy oto te coalshere they uickly igite a proceeded torch the tomatoes

Y R I M C M R R E

Te solutio was t buil a modied twolevelre, wit all the coals baked o oe side of thegri l l ade te chips to te hot coals oce tetomatoes were safel situated over the cooer(coalfree) side ofte gill ad the covere thegill for just two miutes, wich prodced moretha eoug billowig smoke to boost the avorofte tomatoes ad chiles

To balace ad brighte the deep, smoky a-vors ofte tomatoes a chiles, aded a sueezeof lime juice, a afu of cilatro, a a bit ofsuga, sat, ad pepper Give just 0 miutes tolet te avors mel, te salsa was so smok asweet that it was hard to believe that peak tomatoseaso was moths away

S W T A D S M O YG R I L L D T O M A O S A L S A

MAKE S AB O U T C U P S

Suga ad lime juice shuld be aded at t e edto taste, depeig o te ripeess of te toma -toes For a spicier salsa, do't see e grilechie s This salsa is a good matc h for tortilla chipsbut also goes wel with grilled fo ad eggs fservig the salsa witl grilled meat or s, grillthe tomatoes a jalapeos, ad more li t coals,

ad the ish te salsa while you wait for there to itesi agai before cookig tle meat os Mesuite woo chips are too potet for thisrecipe ; we prefe hckory

pound plum tomatoe ( 0 to m ed i u m ) .cored and haved pole to pole

large a lapeo chi le teapoon vegetable oi l , plu addition al for

bruh ing cookng grate

cup wood chip preferably hickory oaked

for minute tablepoon min ced red onion

tablepoon choppe d freh c i lantro leave

teapoon tale alt

teapoon ground black pepper tablepoon etravirgin olive oil

1 teapoon uga r (ee note above)

tablepoon uice from l ime (ee note above)

Oe top ad bottom gill vets sgage chimey, light 6 uarts charcoal (about00 briuettes ) ad let bu uti l part ia covere with layer of e gray ash mpty coalsoto grill a build modied twolevel re byarragi g all coal s to cover oehalf of gil

C S L S F

Positio cookig grate over coas, covead heat uti h ot, abou t miu tes; scrclea with gil brsh

2 Place tomatoes ad chile s i bowl; with vegetable oi d tos o oat evelylogh adled gri og s, dp wad of paper lig tly i vegetabe oil ad wipe hot sie ofPlace tomatoe s cut side ow over hot side oGrill tomatoes ut il evey charre a ig to soe, 4 to 6 mi utes , movig tomfrom edges of gi to ceter as eeed tosure all tomatoes are evey charred sigip tomatoes a gril uti l ski sies are ca tomato juices bubble, 4 to 6 miutesAs tomatoes ish caig , move to cooof gil, leavig mer oes cose to coaplac g soer oes farter away (to matoes be very teder but ot falig apart) tomatoes are cookig, gri ll cil es over hoof gril util skis are blackee o all side0 miu tes, turg as eee Trasfer tosie of gril

3 Wh e both tomatoes ad chies are oside of gril, a soaked wood chi ps to hoa cover gril, positioig ope li vetomatoes Cook or 2 miutes (smoke sbillow through vets aer about 30 sec

Tasfer vegetables to platter ad let csige layer, at east 0 miutes

4 Stem ee seed, a ey chop ulse tomates i food processor utike ow bu still chuky, about six spuses Trasfer tomatoes to bow; stir i oo, cilatro, salt, pe ppe, a olive oilad ad sugar a lime uce as eeded ace avors Let stad fo 0 m iu tes ad(Sasa ca be refrigeratd i airtigt cofor up to 2 days; brig back to room temture before servig)

A LLPlace wood cips i

isposable alumim pa; set pa o edgrill buer ad positio cookig grate grill, tur al burers to high, cover, aduti very hot ad chips are begi ig to sabout miute s ( f chips igite, use lled spray bottle to extiguish) Scrapeclea with grill brsh Cotie with recipestep 2, grilig tomatoes ad chies etireligh eat o side of grill away from wooa with li dow, checkig oe to maktey are ot buig Timig shoud be sto that i charcoa recipe


13/36

i Lonon BoThrong a sab of cheap meat on the gr sonds easy, bt te resut

can e more ke chewng on a tre than on a ncely charred tender steak.

yoe ca grill up teder,rosypik, icely charred steaksusig pricey cuts from the ribor the loi; al they eed is salt ,

epper, oil, ad a few icks from a hotame. Try tat simple approach with a

expesive, large, ad tough steaklikee labeled Lodo Broil"ad the

meat usually turs ito gray, livery chew-g gum by the time it's developed aecet sear.

Lodo broil is actually ot a specicut of meat ; rather, it's a ame give toarious cheap cuts of beef that are cookeduickly, the sliced ultrathi to mitigateome of the toughess. It's a marketigloy of sortsa way for su permarkets adutchers to uload ufamiliar steaks thatome cooks are't sure what to do with.

atig to satis my cavema istictsor a griled piece of meat without breakg the bak, I headed to the supermarketo search out this overszed cut.

ough Cho ices

Y I) A V I A 1 I N

the c ck soulder. ce the steagrilled, owever, ter tougess apparent, ad the meat itslf waslivery side. Still, tese were te cad ti ckest steaks I foud, ad tdevelop a deep, dark, ad evelyouter crust (e specially te oticeabuiform bottom rod ) . C learly, Iwork ut out for me .

'De-liveing Flavor

o solve the problem of livery rst ted to Lodo broil recipthe 950 s. The covetioal wisdto immerse the meat i a viaigremariade for two to 24 ours. I kprevious testig that mariades for tederess ( t1e acids have the ecookig" the proteis o te sute meat, makig tem drier aercookig) but thougt tat they mcare of the livery avor of the mesuredered to traditio ad duktha a doze steaks i acidi c bathswit a varety of igredets, i

A utilitaria yelow or orage sticker pro-aimig Lodo Brol" makes these

teaks easy to spot amog the may choic es the meat case. I commoly foud it o

Crving gri l led ondon broi l i nto ul tr-thin s l ices is ju st one o severltrcs we used to trnsorm ce ste into terriic mel

red wie, Worcestershire sauce, viegar, Italia dressig, ad lemoAltg some of te mariades steaks great avor, tey also suel

hree steks chuck shoulder, top roud, ad bot-om roud (see Would the el Lodo Broillease Stad Up?" elow). ckig up al three,cecked out ad made my way back to the t estitce.

Aer rig up te grill ad simply cookighe meat with salt, pepper, a d oil, a few thigs

beame apparet. Chk solder steak, oe ofthe test kitce's pereial favorites, had greatavo, but we tly slced agait t graiits tree msle grps left apealig seamsof fat i eac sl e. Move toward te rear of teaimal ad yo get top roud ad bottom rodsteaks, whi are mre uifrm i sape ta

oud te Rea ondon Bo ease Stand Up?

beeess. I wated a steak that tasted liot viagrette.

Up to ts oit, I a bee testig mariades wit steaks tat a bee simpad peppered. ad I overlooked te ity of salt as a possible solti? coatewit varios amouts of kser salt (e

oined in the erl 1 90s t Keens Cho house in ew Yor Ci the term ondon broil doesnt reer to rticulr cut o met t l l ther its generic lbel bndiedutchers to sell le, c he un m ili r stes tht might otheise be igno red b customers Over the ers nu mber o dierent stes hve been c lled on don broil For wte ws te most common but lns oulri on the gri l l nd in stirries bum ed its rice into the $6 99 oun d rnge bit too rich or London broil territo owd

motl ee t e still -ce roughl $ 99 o und c uc shoulder ste to round ste n d bottom round te lbeled s London broil

Aood and bee but ts ecentpopular has nflated prces

C C L Reat flavor bu t mutp le muscl e goups

make for "grstly unattactve slce s

R Though "mnel-y wth a "telke tough

ness top roun d s appeal ngly bee

B R m la to top round bt t unfo

makes t even better for grll ng; ou


14/36

x th Bst Ot f lndn B

ough lve un evenl browned lb o met tht ucle u when grl led ? ot ve el ng combn ton nted o dmttng deetn d otn g or rce orterhoued u to he chll enge Tu out tough che te jut need bt o old h oned mern g to mooth out t rough edge

LT RUBDWN WARM BATH MU SCLE RETN S L EEK CUT

drw juce to the urce where eventull dolve the lt; the jucethen reborbed n the orm o ul concentted brne brngng out

lvor nd m ng l ver one

Submegng the (wed) bee n wrmwter or the l hour o ltng cut thecoong tme b lmot 1 0 mnuerovdng le oortun or t cd to

bre down n to o-ttng como und

Fl ng he met once er mnute eethe long mucle ber om contrctng nd ucl ng u mng t eer tocheve good er

Holdng the ne erendculr tcuttng bord nd l cng the metnll (t 5 degree ngle) nto ult l ce orten the ong tough

fber drmtcl l d mn hng chew

ike ey ta tabe at ad t tem itort period of time, ee tay ettig o 2poo of at ad for ou r. ter ta a tte eat a pttig it o a pat e, I wrappedgty i patic rap. O ce I took tee teakte gri, tater c ommeted o teir bee" ad cea" avor. Upo rter reearc,ared tat te a t a dra e take, wi mid wit te at o te terior creatd a aow bri " at a reaborbde eat oe te for or riod e att aor by accetatg te taray bee aor ad by makg ome ofoe aory (rea : iry offo t.

drizig Momntsad doe erytig I o tik of to com-te iery or, o I t d my atttio totr probm: te tog, cwy tre. I

ady k tat mariade wit acid did ittte ttre, bt od ere be otr tdrg igrediet? Sorig te cookbook itr

e for iky adidate , I d ided to try yogrt ,trmik, pieappe , papaa, wi, gir, oda,

ria tdrizig powdr, ad a acard (arp too tat brak dow meat.

r ra tt wit yogrt a bttr ik, appare tat t aid ad zym i

r er tderizig te trir f t matwr doig otig to t tg iterior

r . e i ookd pipp,aa, kiwi, ad giger ork imiary t aidat tey rak do prti . fortaty, prodc a imiar outomeerior ad tog irio, wit oereigty ad or aor b eid. Soda pro

b oa, r p,d ti watr a dried ot t mat, ig itrl t a paatab.e mria trizr dop, wi

ad orked o wel te ti tet caedfor i or a Scaopii (ee pae 8 ) worko oy te oter arteri of my tea ade tem tatig overy aty. If cdt breakow te mc ber it mia, I g-d I migt a we try brt c. I tre oa accard maie, a ae eic oit-ig o 8 a, oity kie tat t p tto br. After trati era ie witte Jacard i reemb a meia tooe for torte, t teak td ot eretedr b t my.

Ba to t draing bar, id toeiet wit cokig teni t o t

ttr rob. t ti poi, wa mpyig t tt kitc a mo ookig a arge pi f meat o t ri : ari g itti w c ar o t ot i f a moidto r ( tt i, wit t a i oj oe id f t ri , t moig it t tcor (mpt i i it rd t rittmpratre. ( Ba botto ro i o a, took t additia tp of i t trirwit i t r arritg takt v togr w roke. itaig a i r ri a ina tmprtr of 20 r, t tak a d d iib bad f ra at rri a r,

mirar itir. poinat r wre imp rok mat, ad tr t mai ra tatr r riit tk a dr a t f d t ta mor y tak ad liiat t dicatd, wy a, migt b on m wato ig t r of tt r

aod M, i i oo ( 9 4 , t r. tini t tmtr f t tak rior tokig b aki it i trir,y, b t rt a try. ri t t mrtr

( I I \ I

of te raw meat from a refriratoridgree to 70 degree wo t iig tmperature of 20 egrei t wod mea tim o te gria more y cooke ad jicier tea. Bdiig ead rt ito te atr, I togmigt b eaier to impy av te meat oroom tempeatre. ter a o, togitea t mpratre of t mat ad icry oy 3 degree. t took ary i orac 70 deroug ti for batemtip I otd to try t i (ad mto. aig a tak rad i patii a b ct of 00 dge wter r jt a

rogt te temp ratr p o 0 degr70 r. t a dcra t gri igom 22 mi te to jt 3 ( it mit oot id, o t coor . Ar retigrwarmd tak ra a or royrior a we a a ara go wtik, vrcook ray bad ear t dg

t tt at t barytr og ti . tk cookd tao tat m iy. om crar, ard tat t r meat cte mor oprtity tr i fr t o(tord i it rotei to react it t tty(tre i it t t rod t i,

aor a aroa tat a pla my trot i dopt. By rdt on tim, a a ab t ri irtio. bir it t

Fial Mattrs at nai ro wit t ta waay tat it d ad bked te i. i r it or dirt t, t d tart t . aig rtica it t didt rt t prbem. r at wo pp if intd of ip


15/36

e teak oy oce I ipped it before te erti ce ber ad eog tie to cotract.

er eperietig wit differet tie, from ecod to for i te, I fod ta t ippige teak oce eery ite wa perfect. Te

ota earig tie wa 8 ite (foowed by 5ite o te cooer ide, o te teak ad toe ipped abot eigt time. Ti ipe eerciea we wort it , a te eat ow ad a eey

ooked eterior wit great coor ad aor.ow I ad oy perform te at odo

roi rita: traditio ca r icig tiy agaite grai. Uike teak tat ae a iibe ori-

ota grai, te grai i top ad botto rodeak r erticay; cig te agait terai wod reire a dagero paror trick,adig te teak o oe of it ort ide adttig ti ice acro it face Itead, t e keya to orte te grai by cttig tiy adagoay, at a 45degree age (ee poto o

age 2 , ortei g te ber ad creatig tepreio of a more te der piece of beef

I te ed, gettig a teder, aorf, iceyarred teak ot of a odo broi eat ige ae a area of igredie tat, pep er, ad oied o i gpriced, wemarbedt of bee Te ecret wa i te e ig.

L O D O B R O I L F O R A C H A R C O A L G R I L L

SERVES 4 TO

ater peerred bottom rod for ti recipeie top rod ca be btitted, it i ardeo get a ee ar o it e irm rface.

e do ot recoed cookig odo broieyod edirare. or te bet tetre, e

carig or icig kife ad ct te teak itoery ti ice. ( If yore tck wit a d cefi, rt ct te teak i af egtwie, aorter ice are eaier to ct; ee Kitce ote ,age 3 , for itrctio. If deired ere witweet ad Soky ried Toato Saa (page ) or iicrri Sace ( ee ook Etra .

2 toon kohr lt

ottom round tk 2 to 2 ound nd

l inch th ick

tloon vgtl oil

toon ground lck pr

Sprike bot i de of teak eey wt at;rap tigty wit pati c wrap ad refrigeate r eat 3 or (teak ca be ated ad rfriger-ed for p to 24 or.2 Fi arge pot or bcet wit gao warm

ater (abot degee . ace wrapped teakto zipperock patic bag, eeze ot ece

Go to cooksiu statedco Ky n co 506 for ou cp fo

imi urri ue. s foaton w avaa nt

Nov 2006

s c E N c E : Why Ds S Mt Tst Lv?

While develoing the recie or gri l le d ondo n b roi l , one o my biggest hurdles was the resence o " i rand ivery avors in the bottom round I was using Through research I earned that the more active a m

is the more oxygen it requires to unctionand the more oxygen it stores in an iron-rich rotein cal led

globin So ar so good. The roblem comes u when steaks cut rom articularly active muscles the boround or instance, is rom the leg) are heated The heat releases the oxgen rom the myoglobin leav

ree to react with the at acids

resent in a l meat to roduce l iv

ery iron -y avors and aromas i n theorm o comounds ca l led a ldehdes. In short, whats causing theo lavors is oxidatio n And the

longer the cooking t ime and the

higher the temerature, the moreoxidation occurs

B AT H E D

Back in the test kitchen we considered o ur otions Whi le we

usually give our steaks a bath beore cooking in the case o o

broil , a warm soak real y did the trickby shortening the cooking

consi debly. When we gri l ld a ! -i nch -thic k bottom roundstraight rom the rerigetor it took about 22 minutes to ac

a mediumrare center; by that time the steak had develo

overcooked gray band around the eim eter to hoto) Whsoaked the wraed steak in I 00-degree water or an hou irs

reached the same temerature in ust 1 3 minutesalmost ha

time That's because while the rerigerated steak started out degrees the bath ed steak started out at 70 d egrees giving it a big

toward the endoi nt o 1 20 degrees ) Instead o a tough gray bansoaked steak had s ubtle gradations o rosy in k bottom hoto

most imo rtant: he bottom roun d that cooked or about hal thtasted mu ch less l ivery D

air, ad a bag tigty. ace tek i water, co-erig wit pat or bw to kep bag b erged

Set id r l or.3 . bot 2 ite ber gr i ig , igt

rge iey tarter ed wit carcoa 6art, or abot briette ad aow tob ti coa r coered i ti, gray a,abot 2 ite. Epty coa ito gri adbid odied twe r by arragig coato cor oe af of gri wit oter af epty.oito cookig grate oer coa, cor gri ,ad eat t i ot, bot 5 ite ; rape grtecea wit gri br.

4. eoe tak o water ad wrap; brbot ide wit oi (at wi ae dioed ad

prike eey wit pepper. ri teak dirctyoer oa, ipig tak wit tog oc eerymit, i dark brow crt form o botide, bot it . oe teak to coor ideof gr ; cer gri a coie cookig tiitatread terotr ierted ito ceter ofteak rgiter 2 dgree for rar to edi m-rare, aot 5 it, ippig tak afwaytrog cookig ti.

5. Trafer teak t cttig board a e t ret,teted wit i , abot ite . odi gti liig ife at 45 dgre age to ea t (eepoto o pag 2 , ic ery tiy d ere.

\ J 3

L O D O B R O I L F O R A G AS G R L

Becae ga gri ge ray prodce carcoa gri, te teak reire a ogeig tie ( ad e eet ippi g to dice cr. e ae terfor omitted tewarig te teak i water a eployekewer to keep it om bckig.

Sprike bot ide oftea k eey wrap tigty it patic wrap ad reigeat eat 4 o or p to 24 o r.

2 bot 2 ite bre gri iggri, tr a brer to ig, coe coeat i ery ot, abot 5 mite.

cookig grate cea wit gri br .3. Uwrap teak; i ert 3 meta kewrwie trog ceter of teak, pacig abot ic apat. r bot ide of toi ad prike eey wit pepper. ace ottet part of gri. ri, ippig teak mite, ti i tatread trmoeter io ceter of eat r egiter 2 egreeto edimrare, 6 2 mite.

4. rar teak to ctti g board adteted wit foi, abot me . kewer. oi ti icig ki at 45age to meat, ce ery tiy ad ere


16/36

ain-Di Vegetabe Sti-FieStir fried vegetab es ake a great side dish, but can they step up to the pate asan entree? Casting our carnivorous doubts aside, we raided the prdu e aise.

or fst nd es weekight di nner,it's hr to et stirfr Slicedmet nd chopped vegetles recooked qickl over high het,

n tossed with oldvored sce nded. ke ot the met, howeer, nds onedish mel deoles into sie dish .e ll egetle stir fr hs pent of pes-contrsts of lvor nd textre t noth-sstntil enogh to nchor the dish

ml in entree territor.

nli ke mn of colleges, I ws conced there ws w to mke stisingl ot of nothing t stirfried vegetle s.

wsn't the met the were issing fromse lleggie stirfries, I resoed, t

And wit few strtegicllosen egetle s, I thoght I col chnge

mind of even th e most npologeticiore i the test kitchen.

Mushooms

3 B Y D A V I D P Z M N O E

thoght the portoelos c ol still eistinct fro the oter vegetles. nother ce o met stirfries, I ente with mrines d cotings,no . Soing the shrooms in sed ride le the sogg, slimiclt to s r. Dippig the in ifcobintios of egg n cornstrcte istinct crst iitill, t the rooms' high moistre conet eende the cst nppetizing cew

wet. A siple ser prove est er I wonered if siple gl ze ( e existing sce ingreents ighAding so sce, chicke roth, ds the shroms is he cookig shin, orl glze tht provide joost the h ee lcking .

Oth Mt Stnd- ins?

nning the podce isle of sper-rket, it wsn't hrd to gre ot wherestrt. If it ws et he nd textre

ws er, mshrooms were the ovi

utting ortobel lo mu shrooms in to large wedges gives them ad dedhet and meatiness i n a ma in cou rse stirry.

Sel portoellos ere not he oletle tht col nchor the ish. Ssqsh ws qic rle ot too w no sstce. Sweet pottoes k, t the reined strch he

frie d fell prt when cooked thrs choicespecicll, her portoellos. oitlize on their lk metiness, I ct the

o wedges lrge enogh to stnd ot fro theer vegetles.

he onl prolem now ws the gills, whichen roke off nd mdie the sce. I triedoking te mshrooms on the tops onl (toep the gils intct, t this techniqe le thesrooms leher n rwtsing. Scrpinggills off with spoon efore cooking solveprolem (see illstrton t right.

ow tht I hd settled o n cooking techniqem strring vegetle , it ws tim e to oeto the spporting cst to more filirrtor. king the itchen's tried ndtre pr o-

dre for stirfries, I simpl plgged in the metyrtoellos where the s liced eef or chcken s went Cook the portoellos in tches nd

them side stemst the longercookinggetles (sch s crrots d roccoli see the

Go to .cooksiustatedcom Ky co 5064 for tr-Fred

Porobelos wth oM ape au ce Ky i co 506 1 2 for rFred

plant wh weet Ch -arlc auce Rcips aaab un Nobr 2006.

chrt on ge 5 n set them sde stirfr thesoer egetles (sc s celer nd ell pepper,greens ( np cge r ok cho, nd rotics( grlic nd ginger then d ll f the egetlesck to the pn lng with rl sce.

he technie wrke withot hitch, t I

ggplt disintegrte ito msh esits etiness ws ppelig enogh for mcotie testing it. Dippig the eggplnin eten eggs then n cornstrch projst enogh textrl contrst to li the egot of vegetle oscrity. (For the recip

Y P R E P A I N G V E G E T B L E S F O R S T I R - F RY I G

OOO MU OMAter removing the stem gentlyscrae the underside o the mushroom with a d inn er soon to removethe eathery gills which can imart amddy taste to the stirry.

ZUHalve ucchii lengthwse and gently scrae out the seeds rom eachhal wit a small soon. Cut in hallengthwse again then cut intoi nch sl ices on a 4 degree bias.

C () ) K' S I L " R ,\ I J

Searate leaves removing the co each lea with a wedge-shacu t Slice the lea greens crosswinto %inch strs. ut the cointo -inch stris.


17/36

hsn and Pepa n Veetab es a St - FyPotobelo mushrooms a the mains in our stirfries for the other vegetabes use those caled for in the recipeor swa them with an other vegetable from th me catego bow We rcomm nd using o ne ongercooking

vegetable paired with one qu ickercookng vegebe a nd a ea gren (either napa cabbage or bo k cho)

LGECKIGVEGABS (toy 2 cups

carots

brccolicaulifloweraspagus

green beans

QUICKECKGVEGABLES (to y cup

bell pppersnow eas

celeucchini or summer squash

AMUT

sma

pound/ pound pound eium

/ pound

meium3 ounces3 medium ribs

I smal

GEES (to yl 2 cups sts an 4 cups rnsbok cho or napa cabbage

ooks xtra on page 4)

smal (about

pound)

e not exacty a vegetabe, rm tofu (soy-an curd) see med promsng as an easy stand nr te eggpant n pract ce, owever, te egg/rnstarc coatng created a crust tat was toock and cewy; tasters anted sometng t n-r Because ts packaged n water, to areadys a sgncat amount of mosture, so wat f pped te egg and smpy dredged te to n

e cornstarc Not ony was ts metod s mpeo prssg or freeng, as so many oter rec pesqured), but t1e resuts peased even te sep-s wo camed tey dd t e to Now wen I ead to te super maret, I do' tve to oo beyod t e produce ase to assem -e a quc mea tat w sats my cravng for abstanta man course

S T R - F R I E D P O R TO B E L L O S W T H

G N G E R - O YS T E R SA U C E

S E R V E S 3 T O 4

s strfy coos qucy, so ave evert1gopped nd ready before you beg coogrve w steamed te ce

ae2 tloon oy uc

2 tloon ugr

cu lowodium chick or vgtl roh

e tloon oy uc

cu lowodium c hickn or vgtl roh

tloon oytrflvord uc

2 tpoo otd m ol

tloon corntrch

PET

pee s l iced on bias / inch thick

stalks discarded, o rets cut into /i nch p ieces cor removed, forets cut into / inc h pieces bottoms trimmed cut on bias into i nch enths

ends trimmed, cut on bias into / inch lngths

stemme d seeded, and cut into /i nch dice

strings an tough en ds trimmed ends trimmed, c ut on bias / inc h thick

seeded, quatered lenthwise and cut on bias /

inch thick

stescores an greens spated, stemscores cut

into /in ch strips greens into / inch stris

egebe2 md ium grl c clov, mincd or prd through

grl ic r (ou 2 toon)

4 oon mincd frh gngr

4 loon vgtl oi l

68 portollo mu hroom (ch 4 to 6 inch), tmdicrdd, gi l l rmovd ( l l utrtion on pg

4) , nd cut into 2 inch wdg (out 7 cu)2 cu l icd crrot or othr longrcooking

vgtl from c hrt ov

1 cu lowodium chickn or vgtl roth

cu now or othr qu ickrcookingvgtl from c hrt ov

pou nd lfy grn from chrt ov

lpoon m d, totd (o ptionl)

Ws gae ngredents n sma bow; wsksauce ngredents n separate sm bo n trdsma bow, mx garc and gnger t tespoonvegetabe o Set bows asde

2 eat 3 tabespoons vegetabe o n 2 nconstc s et over medumg eat unt smerng Add musrooms d coo, t-out strrng, unt browd on one sde, 2 to3 utes Usng togs, turn musoos adeuce eat to edu; coo ut secod sdesare broed and musrooms are teder, about5 mnutes crease eat to medumg; addgae xture ad coo, strrng, unt gae stc ad musrooms are coated, to 2 mnutesTrasfer musrooms to pte; rnse s et ceannd dry t paper toes

3 eat teaspoon vegetabe o n nowemptyset over medum g eat ut begnng tosmoe Add carrots ad cook, strrg occason-ay, ut begg to brown, to 2 utesAdd cup brot and cover sk et; coo nt

1\ A Y J N E

carots are just tender, 2 to 3 mnutes Uad cook unt qud evaporates, about 3onds Tansfer carrots to pate wt mus r

4 eat remang teaspoon vegetbenowempty set over medu mg eabegnnng to smoe Add snow peas and bostems or napa cabbage cores and cook, occasonay, unt begng to bown and

to 2 mnu tes Add ea greens ad coo,

frequenty, unt ted, about mnute uetabes to sdes of set to cear cen ter; adcgger mxture to cerg ad cook, mxture wt spoon or spatua, unt fragran seconds, ten str mxture to greens

5 Return a vegetabes to set aongsauce Toss to combe and coo, strrngsauce s tcke ed and vegetabes are coate3 mnutes Transfer to servng patter, tosesame seeds, f usng , d serve m medat

S T R F R E D P O RT O B E L L O S WI T H

S W E ET C H I L l G A R L I C S A U C E

S E R V E S 3 T O 4

Foow ecpe for StrFred ortobeongerOyster Sce, repacng sga nt 2 tabespoons oney For sauce, nsy sauce to 3 tabespoons, reduce bro cup, and repace oysteravored saucsesme o wt 2 tabespoos oney, spon rce wne vnegar, and teaspoonc sauce ncrese garc to 4 teaspoos

H w t St - F T

When coated with costarch and stirfried, develops a crisp exterior and a creamy interior

tofu is sold in 2 or 6ou nce blocks To cut tofu

stirf, hold a ches knife paal el to the cu tting b

and cut the block in half horiontall to fo recngular lanks ut each lank into six squa

then cut each squar diagonall into two triangle

S T R - F R I E D T O F

Follow recipe for Stir Fried Portobellos with G inOyster Sauce through step ut I containerex

fi tofu into 24 triangles (see n ote above) H

3 tablespoons vegetable oil in 2i nch non

skil let over mdiumhigh unti l shimmering Woil is heating srin ke cup cornstarch evenlybaking dish Place tofu on to of co starch andwith fingers until evenly coated When skilet isadd tofu i n single ayer and cook unti l golden br to 6 mi nutes Tu tofu with tongs and c ooksecond side is browned, 4 to 6 minutes more glae ingredients and cook stiring until glathick and tofu is coated, to 2 minutes Tntofu to late rinse skillet clean and d with towes Proceed with recie from step 3


18/36

Eetial uie to Cookig Pataookng pata ee ple jut bo wate and wat but cook ng peect patatake oe fnee. Here' how we do t

N You have two basic ch oices d ried or resh Dredasta is made rom high- rotein du rum wheat lourso it cooks u srin an irm an is suitble or

thick tomato an d meat suces as well as con centated

oil-base sauces Fresh sta is made rom soter all

urose lour and is qu ite delicate ts rough oroussurace airs well with da ibased sauces

D I E D PASTA I E O Z O I

Died Semoina sta: No longer gummy andbland American brnds o semol ina which is coarselygroun d du rum wheat) asta have im roved so much

that man y beste their ricey tal ia n cou nterarts in

our tasting C O O K I T I P S When cooke to al dente asta

retins some chew but is neither hard nor gummy t

the center

esh gg sta: Whileyour best b et for resh a sta

is sti l l homem ade there are a

ew serviceab le su erma rketotions Ou r favorite brnd isou nd in the rerigerator caseseaed in soilage-retardantackaging and made rom as

teurie eggs

FESH PASTA

I E B U I TO I

C O O K I T I P S Fresh asta i s easi ly overcookedso taste early Drai n the asta a ew mi nu tes beore itreaches l dente retu rn t to the em ot and thencook with the sauc e or nother m in ute or two The

unde rdone asta wil l absorb flavor from the sauce n

the starch rom the st wil l hel thicken the sauce

Whoe Wheat and Gain stas: Most o the

whole wheat astas we tried were gummy grainy orlacking i n "whea lavor but there were a ew thtwe really liked Our avorite is made rom a blen o

whole wheat and regular lours We were less thri l edabo ut the alternative-grain astas we tried Made rom

H O L H E AT I E

O Z O I H E A L T H Y H A V E ST

PA STA B U Y I N G G U I D E

rice corn quinoa and selt these roducts werelag ued by shag mu shy textures an d of lavors Iyou 're deserate to avoid wheat t Tinda OrganicBrown Rice Pasta C O O K I T I P S ook an d use s you would d ried

semol ina asta

N NO O Unl ike Ital ia n-sle asta mostian noodle s are o a

simi lar shae ong strands o ving thickness) b ut

they can be mde rom a wide vrie o lou rs Withsome excetions they are usully best cooked like

Italian stai n a lae quanti o idly boil ing saltedwater then drined see seciics below) One noteabout udging donen ess I n Asia al den te is oreignconcet Asian noodles are best cooked u nti l co m

letely tender bu t not mushy)

Chnese gg Noodes: These

ale yel ow saghetti-sied i;noodl es re made rom wheat lor an avai lab le ried in the ;Asin i ngredients aisle o your marketor resh usual ly with the roduce Sometimeslabeled " lo mein noodles or generic "hi nese-style

noodl es Do n 't conuse them with the bags o curly

dried American egg nooles) C O O K I T I P S h inese egg noodles are good

or stirries cold salads or an-ried noodle ca kes

Excet when u sed in ried noodle cakes egg nood lesshould be draine d r insed und er cool runni ng wter

draine d gain then tossed with a ew teasoons otoasted sesame oil to revent clum ing)

don Noodes : Available resh ordried udon are whte roel ike -f_/rwheat nood les that re f, esec ia l ly th ickan :- _ Pstarchy hey re best :-';,used or hear sous

but un l ike rmen beow) the noodles are cookedsearately not i n the b roth C O O K I T I P S Udon noodles are made withqu ite a bit o salt so the re is no need to add sa lt tothe cooking water Because they are so starchy theyshoul d d einite y be r insed ater cooking

Ramen Noodes:

n Jn the term reers to a wh ole categoryo brothy noodl e dshes but inAmerica we are l im ited to " instant ramen sou the

( ) f s 6

dried bl ocks o thin wav wheat noodles sold i ncel lohan e with a season ing cket C O O K I T I P S In stant me nool es are

rie then dr ie so they cook in u st few mn uWe discard the seasoning acket make our own

or doctor some canned chicken broth) and sethem toed with meat seaood or egg

Somen Noodes:

These very long thi n white

noodle s re made rom -wheat lou r that has bee n .

they can also be used in sou s C O O K I T I P S ke udon somen shou berinsed ater cooking and eed n o salt added to the

ingwater

Soba Noodes: Janese soba no odles are

thin l ike tal ian l ing uine a n made from

a m ixture o wheat lour andbuc kwheat lour whi chimarts brownish -gray

colo r and earthy lavor

We reer imorte aanese soba which contaa h igher ercentage o bucheat lou r nd there

ossess stronger lavor oo ked soba noodl es areadded to broths to make sous l ightly dresse aserved as salads ch i l led warm or at room tem

ture) or eten cold with di ing suces C O O K I T I P S No matter the al icationnoodles should be r inse aer cooking

Rice Noodes: hey whiterice noodles are esecial ly oular

throughout sou thest Asia Americn

suermarkets genera l y crry on ly

o sizes: thin threl ike nooles

sometimes labeled "vermicel l i or"rice stick) and thcker lat noodlesabout inch wide conusingly also cal ed "r cestick) Rice oodles are traditionall stir-rie aad Thai) or serve in sou C O O K I T I P S boi led r ice n oodles overeasi ly and tend to clu m We've had much betteresults soaking them in hot water unti l sotenedl ib le rain ing them then ing them irectthe sou or stir-ry "Vermicel l i r ice n oodles neto soak for about ive mi nutes w hi le thicker nooneed to 20 min utes


19/36

A G L A N c E : Cooking Pastadd salt and asta to water at a rol li ng boi lir immed iately to revent stickingover and return to boil, stirring occasionallyheck eary an d often for do nene ss

eserve some cooking water and drain

uce, season, and serve imm ediately

Water and ot: You 'l l need 4 quarts ofwater to cook ou nd of dried asta

Any less and the nood les may stick Pastaleaches starch as it cooks Without l en

of water to di l ute it, the starch coats the

noodles, makin g them sticThe ot should be large, with at least

a 6 qua rt caacito guard against

boil overs Bu t forget exensive metal

ots and fancy mesh inserts A light

weight, inexensive stockot with sturdyhandles and a l id does the ob ust fine

ing sauce o n to of an d of asta is an Americ an

t we avoid the noo dl s

as they cool Instead, wea cue from the I talia ns, w hofer the d rained asta back to

hot ot and add u st eno ughe to coat the asta evenly,

g with e nough reserved astaking water to th inghtly

I TA L I A N PA STA C O O K I N G G U I D E

Pasta cooks qu ickly and sho uld be served im med iately, so have al l the necessaryingredients and utensi ls assembed before you begin, incl udin g your di nner guests

the tal ians say, " Peole wait for asta, n ot the other way aroun d

O i : Unless you're serving a butter or cream-based sauce, kee

some extravirgin ol ive oi on han d for drizzl in g over the sauced astafor a final bu rst of flavor Just don 't waste it in the cooking water

It won' t revent the asta from sticking (no t a roblem if you useeno ugh water) , bu t it wil l revent the sauce from coating the asta

sta: One oun d of dried astagenerally serves fou r to six eol e as

a main co urse, de endin g on whether

the sauce is l ight (tomato sauce), rich

(creamy Alfredo or hear Bolognese) ,

or bulked u with other ingredientssuch as vegetables or seafood

quid Measuring Cu:

n that las t flu rry of activ ibefore saucing the asta and

getting dinne r on the table,

it s easy to forget to reserve

some cookin g water to thinthe sauce , if needed Weoften lace a measuring cuin the colande r as a remind er

when we start to cook

Q U I C K T I :

Don 't Forget the Saf you ' re worried that the salt

may s l i your min d, soon it

di rectly into the box of asta

Coander: Once the asta is draingive the colander a shake or two, b

do n' t shake the asta bone- dry Th

bit of hot cooking water cl ingin g toasta wil l hel te sauce coat it An

no- no: r ins ing cooked asta--

Salt: Proerly seasonedcooking water is crucialfor good flavoruse

I tablesoon table salt (or

2 tablesoon s kosher salt)er 4 q ua rts of water

Serving Bowls and Ld e:

We li ke to serve asta in

asta Fork: Of th e coun tless items of asta

hern alia we've tested over the years, the onwe recomm end is a asta fork, a long hand le

erorated soon with ridged teeth The woovarie is clu n and rone to slitting, but thlastic and stainles ssteel versions a re great

essential basic tongs work fin eb ut we're gbought one

Q U I C K T I :

Sauce: Don 't dro the asta in to the waterun ti l the sauce is nearly ready Smooth saucesand sauces with ve small b its, suc h as garlicand oil , are best with lo ng strand s of astaCh un kier sauces are best matched with shorttubular or molded shaes

wide sou bowls, as the edge

rovides an easy lac e to twirlnoo dle s on a fork To warmthem before serving the asta(esecial ly im ortant withcream sauces, which coolquickly and congeal) , add afew extra c us of water to theasta ot When it boils, ladleabout / cu of boi l ing waterinto each bowl and let standwhi le th e asta cooks

Warm te Se ng BowIf you' re using a arge serving bowl,try lacing it un derneath the colander whi le draini ng the asta Thehot water heats u the bowl, w hichkees the asta warm l onger

1 7


20/36

oopoo a caoppiniSperarket vea ctets are a far cry ro the deicate fare served i restarats

We set ot to trasfor these coveniet ctes ro ogh to tender

Ca tem wat you w scaoppnscaops escaopes or even scntetese tny sced cutets are remaraby easy to prepare. Genty pound te

ets saut tem qucy and serve wt a bascsauce. Wt ts tender meat and decate avea s a natura for ts preparaton. tsa uxurous coce over te more popuarfrany ore pedest ran substtute c cen.

taurants aways see m to get t s ds j ust rgtng te gty browned vea cutets wt a

ng emon sauce or sweet Marsaa reducton.suay suc a basc r estaurant ds s a greatddate for an easy mea at ome . Supermaretsay stoc pstne pn vea cutets rady top from pacage to pan. Sounds smpe butc sear tod a dfferent story. Band avor

g meat and smy exteror were commonpants aer my rs t round of testng. tte dggng rveaed tat te vea was

ng from te supermaret s from te sou-or te e g te two toug est parts of te caf une te vea scaoppn rom te rbon served by top cefs. xecutng ts dsecty was gong to be cer tan t ougt.

w coud I r ecreate restaurantqua ty vea sca-n usng supermaretqua ty cutets

Rvalednderstand te dfferent cu ts c onsute d my butcer. He nformed me tat te prepared

ets e receves from te meat supper comerge vacuumseaed pacs mang t mposto te f te vea was cut from t1e sou-

or te eg. te souder and eg are t1eces wored te most tey are naturay te

gest meat. brey reconsdered my decsonse supermaret cutets but te noto of scmy own cutets from a on roast or rb cop

med beyond te pae for weengt coongcay for suc a smpe recpe. I dd decdeffer tese andcut cutets as a opton; seee tmate Scaoppn" on page 9)

Wt ts touger cut of vea I nee ded a sreapproac to tenderness. Frst tred soa

Go to .cooksil lustrated.com Ky i n co 50 65 fo ou cip fo

TarragonSer Cream Sauce Ky in co 5066 fo ou atic on th

sae o nonst ck cooare his infomation i b aaiab unti

omb I 2006

S R I S

By lourin g on ly one side o the veal cutlets, we ach ieveda cris crust without overcooking the del icate meat

ng te vea n m overngt. oped tatte actc acd n m woud ep tendere temeat. nfortunatey tasters notced tte dfference between soaed and unsoaed cutets; naddton te msoaed cutets steamed tenbured n t1e pan. Next I tred a accard a anded tenderer tat wors by forcng mutpeneedes troug te meat breang te tougbers. Ts was sgty more effectve but tast-ers companed tat tese oddoong cutetsremnded tem of Sasbury stea.

esperate reaced for te saer of meattendererAdops t1e brand my moter used

so many years ago. Tese cutets were as teas any ve ever tasted and tasters were stawen reveaed my secret ngrede nt. For don ow meat tenderer wors see page 9 )decdedy ungamorous product turned reaaby prced supermaret cutets n to cutets bt as tender as tse found n restaurantsome but cerng n o g prce t ag Not baa tenderer tat costs pennes per use.

Flo u Maks a Dffernce

utets seasoned wt meat tenderer and per and ten sauted ed to deveop mua cust. redgng te seasoned cutets n dentey eped. B ut by te tme te cute tsncey browned tey were aso overcooed.tme n te pan yeded a pae cooress extand band avor. To sove ts probem coong ony t1e rst sde unt goden broten ppng eac cutet and nsng. metod preveted overcoog but te secqucy cooed sde was pasty. I ay fondanswer ourg just one se o e ce.oured sde obtaned a rc goden bron ror and te oter sde now wtout our

o onger gummy.er coong ree batces of vea ere

pen ty offond avor broned bts) n tebut ese cutets ddnt afford me te uxuspendng mnutes on sautng saotsreducng quds n e empt pan. To eepvea tender and ot ad to reverse t1e usuacess and mae e pa sauce n a separate saucbefore coong te vea. Once e ast batcdone I poured te amostnse sauce e se and scraped e pa to nc orporatmeaty avors nto my sauce. sed e swt butter and erbs a a nute atersauced and tender) cut ets ere on e tabe

r r N G Mi k ed vs Natuay ised Veaal calv tdition all have been fed a strict mi lk or formula iet, an their oveent ha been l i ited a remi lkfed val is white in col or (In gneral , th more muscl tissu i ed, the darker it becomes ) In rcent yeanatull ised veal calves, ed ilk a well as gin and not iven an antibiotics or hoons, hav ottn eoleattntion Thee ani mals are al lowed more xercise, an thir meat is in k

thical a nd a eance concrns asid e, we wondered if our tasters coul tell the d ierence betwen i lkfan naturall raised veal In terms o lavor, o ur an l c oncl that the o sles wre i ndistin ishab le Txtuwas another matter Tasters elt that the milkfed veal was more tender, finding natully raise veal a bit chewn w srinkl th cutlt with eat tendrizer, howvr t irence disaared S

'


21/36

How Meat en de ies WokThe use of plnts to tenderize met dtes bck hu n

dreds o ye to t he ntive peoples of wht i s now

Mexico who wrpped met in ppy leves Bothppya nd pinepple conin enmes tht brekdown collgenthe connective tissue tht mkes

met tough These enmes ppin (from ppy)

nd bromelin (from pinepple) re the ctive

ingredients in bottles of met tenderizer. W 'vdismissed these products n the pst becuse they

eectively tenderize only he outermost lyer of

piece of metnot much of n improvement for

thick tough stek. But our ultr-thin vel cules

were ust the right thickness for the bottled tende r

izer to penette completelyTo see if bnd mttered we gthered six tende r

ize (sesoned nd unsesoned vrieties from

Adolphs Durkee nd McCormick) nd heded to

the kitchen with sevel pou nds of tough vel cu tlets

Adolphs nd Durkee contin

ppin while McCormick relies

on bromelin to do the work

Al of them worke equllywellneith er the bn d nor thepe o enme mde ny diference Shoul d you opt for se

soned or unsesoned? While

the ext spices rent enough

to ruin di nner wed ust s soon

d

do the sesoning ouelves T E N D E R N E S SGrth Clingingsmih N A BOTTLE

V E A L S C A O P P N

S E R V E S 4

ook te vea n batces to avod overcrwdnge sket; because te se of packaged cutetsares, eac batc may contan as few as tree cut-ts or as many as sx. A pan sauce recpes foow)a must; start preparng te sauce befoe cookng1e cutets, ten ns n te sket used t brown1e cutets. Because meat tenderer conansodum, t s unnecessary to sat t1e cutets.

ound val cutlt, about 'I nch thck3 taoon ma t tn drzr

s taoon ground black r

cu unblachd al l uro flour

tabloon vgtabl ol

f cutets are t cker ta n nc , paceeteen w seets f pastc wrap or wxedaper and pound to even nc tckness wt ket or meat punder. f some cute ts are tn -er tan nc , pound to even n c tc ness

en fod n a Bt cutets dry wt paper tow-s. Sprnke tenderer and pepper eveny overot sdes of cutet s.

2 . ace our n r mmed bakng seet andpread to tn, even ayer. eat tabespn

2 nc nnstck sket over g eat unt

e U i ate cao ppn Ve Ten de Ve Epen sive

To experience superender vel sclopp ini witho ut using met tenderize you m ust bu rost or chos roloi n or rib nd butcer ou r own cutlets mong these prem um c oices te rib chop is probbl te esiest towith nd te most widely vil ble But don t expect to sve ny mon ey or your eor Su permrket cutlethe leg or sho ulde r cost 0 to 20 per poun d dep end ing on te mrket u le tt you m ke ourel cops wil l en d up costing closer to 2 or 0 per ou nd . the sticker shock doesnt stop you eres ow tothe most tender scloppin i imginbl e

I Strt by trimmi ng the bone from 2 Trim o utside ft but leve inte- 3 . Slice met in hl horzonthe me lobe of ech rib cho p rior ft lon e. hen poun d to /-i nch thickn

begnn ng t smke. redge rst batc f cute ts

se e note abve) n our on ne sde ny, sakeoff excess, and pace n ske t, oured sde dwn,makng sure cutets d nt overap. o, wt-ut movng cutets, unt we brwned, t mnutes. Fp wt tngs and ck unt secndsdes are n nger pnk and cutets fee rmwen pressed, about 3 secnds . Transfer cute tst patter and te nt gty wt fo to ke ep warm.Repeat to ck remanng cutets n 2 batces,usng addtona taespoon o for eac batc. f set becmes to dark aer cokng secndbatc, rnse before cntnung .) Use paper twesto wpe aay fat, qu d, or wte matter n sketwtut removng fond. Return pan t medum

eat, ns pan sauce recpes fw), pur vercutets, and seve.

P O R C N M A R S A A P A N S A U C E

M A K E S A B O U T I C U P

13 ounc drd orcn muh room, rd wl l

(about 13 cu)

1 cu hot watr

2 taoon vgtabl ol

2 mdu m hal lot, mn cd (about 3 cu)

cu dry Marala

1 cu lowodum chc kn broth

2 tabloon un altd buttr, cut nto 4 c tabloon m ncd frh c hv

Tabl alt and groun d black r

l ver usms wt wter n smamcrwavesafe bw; cover wt pastc wrap,cut sevea stea vents n pasc wt parngknfe, and m cowave on g power for 3 sec onds. et stand unt musoms sen, about 5mnutes. musrms m qud wt forkand cp nto nc pecs yu sud aveabout 3 tabespons). Stra qud trug nemes staner ed wt pape toe nt edum

;\ Y

bw. Se t musrooms and straed qu d

2 . Heat o n med um saucepan over mg eat unt sm mern g. Add saots aut begnng t soen, about mnute. pan fro eat and add arsaa. Returng eat ; smme r rapdy unt q ud s to cup, abut 4 mnutes. Add musroostraned soakng qu d and smer unt pan s agan reduced t cup, about 4 Add brot and smme r unt qud s reducup, abut 8 mnutes. Set asde.

3 fter transferrng ast batc of cupatter, pour sauce nt empty pan and bsmmr, scrapng up browned ts n ptm. Off eat, wsk n butter, cves,

and pepper to taste. ur sauce ver cutserve mm edatey.

L E M O N P A RS L E Y SA U C E

M A K E S A B O U T I C U P

2 taoon vgtabl ol

2 mdu m hal lot, mncd (about 3 cu

1 cu lowodu m chckn broth

2 tabloon mncd frh arly lav

2 tabloon un altd buttr, cut nto 4

Tabl alt and groun d black r

-2 tabloon u c from lmon

Hea t o n medum saucepan over mg eat unt smmeng. Add sac unt egnng t sofen, abou Add brt and ncrease at t

cook's illustrated 080

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