cook's illustrated 081
TRANSCRIPT
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NUM B R IGHT-ON JUL GUST
L U D
Foolproof GrilledHamburgers
You Can't Overcook Them
Cuban BBQ Pork
Make-Aheadicic Chicken
No More Rubbery Skin
Best Peach CrumblCrisp Toppig, Juicy Frit
How to Grill Shri
Illustrated Guideto Kitche Kives
Ratig BlendersBargain odel a Winner
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July Agst 00
2 Notes from Readerseers s qesion s n ses solio ns
4Qick TipsQi n esy wys o perfor eey ss frosorng onons o i ng e il l o of rese es
6 The Ultmate Picnc ChcenHow o yo gie ol ini ien gre fo wiofy si sin? wi es Bon's rin is esere is sen no sirre BY SARAH WILSON
8 An Easier Way to Grill ShrimpGril ing sip in ei r sells proes e elie es seson ings re eele wy th tle Col weel ier ener forfl gri ll e sip-wio e sells?BY REBECCA HAYS
I 0 Pizza Margerta at HomeAeni reipe s for is N epolin pi ll for nOOegree oen wo ys of proofing n ogexpers ns e wne rel Mgeri-ol essle BY ERIKA BRUCE
2 erfecting Cuba-StyePor RoastGr i irsi nfse por is nrl for e rgrill Unfonely so re e rn sin n infors e gril lrose 00 pons of por o ge iig BY SANDRA WU
I Rescuing Sauted Zucchinis serie sple oos p so n l n in esile Col we il i o? BY SEAN LAWER
6 Illustrated Guide to KivesDo yo rel ly nee 400 wort o foe Gern seel?Here's or gie o oosing (n sing) e esseniln ies-n wi on es on' e e BY SEAN AWLER
8 ow to Grill OnionsGrille onions slly oo p lene osie n rwinsie s ere eer wy? BY ELIZABETH GERMAIN
19 Better Pasta Saad with PestoA is es peso is fres geen n fl l of erl orCol i sy wy een wen e o n Aerinps sl? BY SAN RA WU
0 Wel-Doe Bugers Done Welese ys ny oos preer griling gerso eiwell n eyon B oes wellon e e oen oerone? BY MAHEW CARD
The Best Key Lie Barsr firs s rnsforing Key lie pie ino ooielef s wi i rs-n oo lie on orns e wne o rise e rBY DAWN YANAGIHARA
24 Improvig Peach CrumleSo opping n forless fill ing re e no fo issiple esser ow o yo e e rl e rsp ne pees l ly se lie well pees7BY MATTHEW CARD
26 Is here a New ing ofKtcup?e esre pein eels lle pH n greor Boswi on sisoeer o explin e srprisngresls of or ep se es BY EIGH ELANGER
8 Sizing Up Souped-UpBlendersHe fny feres (n e p ie gs) fin lly eeners n essenil ien ool? BY SCO KATHAN
30 Kitchen Noteses resls ying i ps n ie rele o soies psn presen i rely fro e es ienBY ERKA BRUCE
32 Equipmet Corereiews of new ies pes on ps ess n soresfor pros se i n is isseBY GARTH CNGINGSMITH
GRLLG PC e gille oer o re es on orfl exerior rs-een ore
so wen firs oe wi lene fro relly osen gon spies e inense
e plies ei r or y oxing o eep ose noes Aong e so ses es
sie for s e in sl see wi r i lly o for; e ore e ol
orner see; sr nise wi is isin se of spiy lioe; swee niseore fennelsee; n piqn sr see ile ny of e ele sweeer spies ii nis i n or
oer e e of e grill i nnon n l spie (wi ses of in non neg n loe)
re exepions eoing een ore oplex Fesly gron l pep per s plesn e
n rn o grille es wil e rie n gon iles s s no n ipole (enilly
no spies) fie ep Aso osie e spie rel re gron oee n oo o of
wi onrie weloe ie noes
COVR Wrns) lizabeth Brandon, CK COVR //y ps) John Bugoyne
For list renta informatio n contact: Specalists Marketng Seces Inc, 1200 Harbor Bvd, 9 Foor, Weehawken, NJ 07087; 201-865-5800
Editorial Oice: 17 Station St, Bookne, M 02445: 617-2321000 fa 67232-572 Subscripton nquiries, cal 800 526-8442stmaster: Send all new orde, subscrption inquiries. and changeof-address notices to Cook's Illustrated, Box 7446 Red Oak l 5159-0446
COOK'SI L ! I l T A t
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PRITD I T U
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know that I am still alive because I getworked up about opening day at Fenway,doble choolate chip mint ice cream, bourbon and branch water, the rst boil in sug
ing season, and the opportunity to stand in adegree trout stream i April. And I haven'trgotten the recipe or nutmeg doughnuts, theain om In the Garden," why I get up in theorning, or who butters my bread. I still enjoyht pancakes, eavy liing, cold weather, hotscuits, hard ran, so cheese, long days, shorteads, the rst snow, the last ba le, the b ig storm,e small gesture, and a swi ick in the pantshen I'm moving too slowly.I can still remember my age, my middle na me,
y phone number, and my kids' birthdays butdit that or the lie o me I can't rememer why we need Lemon ledge, automaticansmissions, oparts, the Osmond amily,ink tanks, Hot ockets, the Department ooeland Security, or saety instructions ornscreen, toothpaste, and shaving cream . I can
so remember seeing the price o gas at 2 centsgallon, paying a nickel or a cherry Coke ate soda ountain, riding in my ather's Nash,atching thur Godrey, and using the Wi nky
nk coloring kit to write on the screen o ourmall black-and-white set.I'm still not old enough to understand stringeory, anything about the Holy Ghost, toilet
owl cleane r, restaurant critics, the Shri ners, catatic converters, AC versus DC, o rganic chemistry,
mokeless tobacco, or the r eason why women area panic to check their voice mail aer only a
eekend away.Someday, when I am older, I hope I will bele to recognize the co nstellations, identi birdngs, tie a dozen sailor's nots, tell the dierce between a ketch and a sloop, master thet o making pu pastry, and remember thees o people I h ave known or years. I a lso
AIN'T DEAD YET
still hold out aint hope o beinginvited to the White House,being included in a top 0 list,ad having Reese Withersooncall to say se wants me to costarin her next movie.
jog three miles i less thaminutes, lose 0 pounds,purchasing relaxed-t jeansstart buying shorter be lts. also lose my taste or cupBoston cream pie , raspbars, lemon meringue pie, Cups, and anything cookduck at.
I am sti l l looking orwardto the uture . hat's wenI' l l nal ly nis my chi ldren'sboo , bu i ld my cab in , andcomplete the Dodge HEIkit, with its 3 0 0 pieces, electricmotor, and authentic HEsound cip . I wi l l a l so nish
risoer il l
I also know that I ain'tyet because old peopledierent rom me. heir hurt, they plan their trips u
organizin g my garage, wax my car, have a ser ious talk wit my son, clean my closet s, and ndtime to scout or wild turkey and deer beorethe start o te season. he uture will also be agood time to mae amends, pay my dues, andthink or mysel
In years to come, I also plan to ride horseback rom our arm to Canada, run the BostonMarathon, and take my Idian motorcycle crosscountry. I am still much too young, however, toconsder motor homes, Florida, retiremet communties, Arizona, Sansabelt pants, the idea o
sitting down to dinner beore sunset, San Diego,gol, ruises, le tters rom the and the prosand cons o burial versus cremation. I do hope,however, that i arta Reeves is stil l around shewill sig Dancing in the Street" at m y uneral.(I you get the chance, please mention this tomy kids.) I she dies rst, I promise to cook ather wake.
I know am still young because my wie tellsme daily to grow up, especially when I start planning the motorcycle trip. I am also condentthat I have sucient tim e let to recov er rom asteady diet o Slim ims, bacon, ried buttermilkchicken, Old-Fashioned cocktails, ad secondhand smoke. Someday, I know I will be able to
down stairs carelly (so as orget something on an upper oor), they about slipping on ice, they take every oporto visit a bathroom when traveling, and tesmall children burdensome. (O, well, mthat list does seem a bit amiliar.)
As urther proo o my youth, I still understand my parents, save or retiremebuy lie insurance. I don't like Frank Sinrememb er World War II , or argue about whFranklin Roosevelt was a socialist. I do, hownote that when I discuss where I was enedy was shot" with my peers, younge
ple dri away. They do the same thing whesubject is Watergate, Sam Cooke , FillmoreCaraby Street, The Ed Sulliva ShJ, WCronkite, or Meet the Beatle! hey just kow their history.
I am just old eough, however, to know tall the millions o kids my wie ad I couldhad, we had just the our we wanted. But I'yet wise enough to say the same thing abou( although it's true) . And I am still too youhave lear ned umility, the art o being gratea appreciation or the icredibl e miracle oWell, this all j ust takes time. Ad that's thething about being young. We think that whave so much o it le.
FOR R RR OR OR FRO: COOK 'S ED aaz Cook gzine (ISSN 08-81 ner 81 is plise ionAcoosillseco o cn oer oos n ssci pions si n p foror fee e newsleer Boson oon Pres e rnesip 1 Sion S Brooine A 044 opyor renew yor gzin e sscripion oi n e e si e n yoll e ccess o 1 yers of Cook 00 Boson oon ress ie rnersip erioicls posge pi Boson Mecipes coore ess ingre ien sin gs n ore n iionl i l ing oices USS #0148 MAE: Sen ress cnges o C
COOKBOOKSe sell ore n 40 coooos y e eio of Cook o orer i si or oosorecoosi llseco or cl l 800110 (or 1-4-11 fro osie e US
l lsre Box 44 e lA 11-044 For sscripion n gif sscrorers sscripion inqiries or cngeofress noices cll 800--844 in e U1-4-1 fro osie e US or wrie s Coo's l lsre Box 44 lA 11044
U L Y [ U G U S
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F DBres
your supermarket coffee tasting story
November/ecember 2005) you blamedquakers" for giving some coffees bad avorould't you just remove the uakers beforeindig a batch of beans?
CAL CANG
BAA CY NWY PA
Quakers are underdeveloped coffee beans thatcidentally make it through the manufacturingocess Because tey are less dense tan healthy
offee beans, they roast up to a much lighter color,nd they can impart a spoiled, rancd taste to a potf coffee Some maufacturers pay a premium to
make sure quakers are sortedout before processing
OF E IER
hat about remov-ing tem yourse lf ?To see what effectthis would have, wespent half an oursiing through bagsof whole-bean coffee
d o bother sortig ot (from a brand that evi-bighted beas? denced a igh umber of
uakers i our 2005 testig),parating the lighter-colored uakers from thest The we brewe up two batches ofcoee oe
ith the quakers le i; te other, uaker-ee erstig one batch aganst the other, a few thngsere clear The quaker-free sample was by noeans perfect, but the quakery" coffee wasorse (described as more sour, astriget, andancd" ) Our opnon is that while it wo't hurtremove ay uakers you happe to see , spend
g alf a hour huched over a bag of coffeen't wort the effort Gettig rid of a few badans sn't enough to trasform a lw-qualiy bag
coffee into a high -quali ty brew
he Coor of Corn S udon' t use cor syrup very oen ad usaly haveny one e on a a any ven e an subtute ight corn syrup for dark (and vice versa)?
ON L
ASTN TXAS
erive from cornstarch , corn syrup is a thic kquid sweeteer that was rst bottled for home
e by e maker of tl1e ro brand (in 902)ro emains t1e larges proucer o corup Light cor syrup is a clear mixture ofrn syrup ad high-fructose cor syrup (adde
or greater sweetness) that has been caried to
MPL D S DR A WU
remove all color and impurities, giving it a sweet,mild avor (Vanilla is also aded) ark co
syrup is a mixtre of corn syrp ad reners'syrup (a type of molasses), to whic caramel coorad avor ave been aded to give it a deepbro color ad strog er avor
e tried eac type n ree ifferent recipes( oatmeal ace cookies, hot dge sauce, ad pecanpie ) to de termine whether t1e two varieties couldbe used intercageably Tasters detected fewavor differences in the samples Tose madewit1 light corn syrup were ligter and chewierthan t1e darker crispier cookies mae with darkcor syrup, but tasters found both acceptabeColorwise, both samples of tl1e ot dge sauceand t1e pecan pie looked te same In the hotdge sauce, t e dark corn syrup yielded a richerchocolate avor and a slightly looser texture, butte differeces were far from eart-shatterig te peca pie, several tasters foud tt thedark corn syrup made for a runier texture anda richer, caramel avor tat masked some o f tepeca avor Our conclsio ? Yes, there are somesubtle avor ad textural dfferences, but if youcan't mae it to t1e grocery store, go ahead anduse whatever corn syrup you've got in t1e patry
Butche-Boc Caeecetly, bougt a used butcher-bloc work
table hat is t1e best method for cleang andproperly disinfectig a table like tis?ALAN SNYR
OA KLAN CAL
Butcher-block tables, which cton ot olyas a work space but as a cutting srface, muste cared for ad treate in a maner similar tocuttig boards To reduce the growth of bacteriao your butcher block, be sure to scrub it itl1hot, soapy water aer each use Te US epart met of Agriclture also recommends the periodic appl ication of a soluto of teaspoo bleachper quart of ater to sanitize te surface, whichsou ten e rnsed o wt co aer omaintain te appearance of te wood surface,some maufactrers sugge st applyig a food- safeoil periodically (once every few weeks) using aclea coth The mieral oi soaks into the bersof the woo, actig as a barrier to excess mo isture Te experts we consuted recomm en optg or mieral ol (make sure te containe islabeed ood-grade") raer an more-volateoils like vegetable oil and olive oil, wich ca turnrancd over time or ay-today use, we suggestreservig your butcher block for applications that
L U S R !
on' t involve sh, meat, or poultry Isteadseparate cutting board for these tasks, hic
make cleanig much easier while reducinrisk of crosscotamiatio
Coddled Es versus PochedWhat's the differece between coddled eggpoached eggs?
KO
PO NX
Both con a poachng refer to ing somethng gnty in water heated tobelow the boilig poit ith eggs, t1e dece comes down to the shell oache eggcooked without te shell, directly i themerig water (oen ith vinegar added tothe whtes set) Coddlig, o the other involves cookng te eggs stil protected by their shel l or indvidual covered cotaiers coddlig cups ghty coddled eggs (cofor about 45 secods, just to thicke the slightl y) are commo y used in Caesar saad ings to provide a more viscous texture, buare sometimes cooked a few miutes moa cosistency resemblig softboied eggwhites are slightly more set) a d eate as is
Fixin Frzen Coeshenever wrap ad freeze baked so clate cookies, te texture chages er thathe sugar crystalizes ad becomes cruchycookies are smooth he they are ot out ove, so why would freezng leovers affetexture?
RY S
GR NS BORO
e baked two dieret reci pes for chewyolate cookies, wich we the froze ad that room temperature before comparg with freshly baked cookies e, too, oticuwanted crunchiess i the previously fversions er oi some researc, e etat sugars becoe signicatly more crys( less liely to dissolve) as the temperature dn the freezer, te , the extrem ely low temture causes t1e sa g o come osolutio and recrystalize
But merely levg the cookes out ocountertop to t1aw id ot provide eougto reissolve te sugar crystals To get te coback into smooth, ch ewy shape, we trie reing" them as we oud most oter rozenbaed) cooies by pacg them i a 35 0- d
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ven for four to ve miutes ic rowavig at ower for about 30 secods also worked, but thestribution of heat was l ess eve ad oy a fewokies could be refreshed at a time Once thefreshed cookies cooled to room temperature,ey were nearly as good as their fresh couterrts: chewy ad crystal-free
ow 'Premium Is Premium Butter?
ccasioally, prefer to use butters with a higherrcetage offat, but may bra ds don't provideat informatio Ca you hel p?
SE BSKNE
OYAL OA K, C.
There's bee plety of hype about the meritsf premium" butters (oen called Europeayle butters) , touted for their creamy texture adgh fat cotet compared with regular butter the past, whe the test kitche conductedn d taste tes ts of both styles , tasters foud ol ybtle differeces when the butters were sample d
ai (simply spread on toast), and those uacessappeared etirely whe they were used inookig Was our pael miss ig somet1ing?
t's whe we hered dow to calculate thercetages ourselves (divdig the amout of fatr servig by the table spoo serving size ) thatclearer picture bega to emerge nitially, weere puzzled to d, as you did, that most maucturers do't list fat percetage on the pack
gigespecially given that fat cotent is a keyllig poit Eve more surprisig , the fat cotetf every butter we foudom t1e ubiquitousand akes to the facest rech beurrefelletwee grams ad 2 grams per servig Just
-gram differece What's more, may of t1eocalled premium butters (icludig residet,errygold, u pak, ad perhaps the best kown,ugr) listed just grams of fat per servig ow
ould it be that these self-proclaimed premium"utters cotaied the same amout of fat as t1eeeric ( cheap) supermarket brads?
it turs out, it all boils down to US oodnd rug Admiistratio labelig laws, whichow maufacturers to disclose fat contet in
rams rouded to the nearest whole numberhat meas a butter with grams" of fat may
otai betwee 80 percet ad 82 percet fat2 percet fat is geerally cosidered te mi
mum fat cotet for a premium butter) Noonder ou r tasters otic ed hardly any differeceetwee cheap butt er a premium butter i our
S L I M D I F F E R N C ?Preiu butte y nt be tht muh re
inuent thn reur butte.
W I I
I recently bought this device at a rummage sale. t has a chan
mehansm on the botom that widens and ons depen
ng on how the handle on to is turned What is it used for?
ELVN OONE K
WOLF PONT ONT
Ths t has a ra han n
unscrwng ar tps.
Te tem yo u purchased s a Top-O screw-top oener manufaured y Edlund Co n 1932, his gadge is designed
make unscrewng stuo jar and bottle tops easer o adjust
screwtop opener to t diamete of inch to inches simtu the wooden handle (clocise to widen, counterclois
contct) until the o ends of the device w snugly around
top of the ja or ottle To unscrew te o, tu he handle oun
clocise untl the top is loosened n our tests, we were surr
to find that his method works even better than te usua tric
ping the sde of the jar on the counteto to loosen the sea
usng a damp kitchen towel to get a better gr Alhough we fo
sevel online aucion sites sellng ths tool as an antique tem
was also avalale from the Vermont Count Store fo $95Sources page 32, for ordeing formation
battery of blid taste teststhe difference comesdow to less than two percetage points
f you want a higherfat butter, choose oe wit12 grams of fat per serving rather t whichis guaranteed to be at e ast a few percetage poi tshigher i fat cotent a 2004 tastig, our tastig panel liked te rich lavor ad creamy textureof ad Lakes ltra Creamy" variety ( whichas 2 grams offat)
oiling PointsThe broiler i my oven has two settigs low ad
high 'm ever sure which settig to use whe areci pe call s for usig the broil erNCK ON ES
PLAELPA PA.
t he test kitchen, we always use the hig hestsetting when broilig ost recipes, icudigours, call for broilig oly when quick, ecietbrowing is desired, so it only make s sese to gowit1 the highest tempe rature ( Besides, it wouldbe a mistake for us to offer a recipe requirig asetting that many inoven broilers lack)
resumably, manufacturers came up with thelow bro iler setting as a way to account for t1e factthat some foods can tak extreme heat bett er t1aot1ers We prefer t1e simpler (and more lexible)meto o austi the istace of te ove racom t1e broiler's heatig elemetthe closer itis, te q uicker it cooks A few general guideline s:or roastig vegetables such as red peppers adasparagus, broilig about 4 ic hes from t1e h eating elemet is optimal or browig t1e topsof cheesy casseroles (like l asaga) , make sure tetop of t1e pa is at least 6 iches away or breadcrumb toppis, wic bur fairly easily, austthe ove rac to the ower-mie postio, to
U L Y [ U U
2 iches om te heatig elemet oultrsh will vary depedi g o the sze of the pthe l arger and thcker the pieces, the fart1et1ey should cook B ecause b roiled foods cai mere secods, start checkig for donelittle earlier tha the recipe idicates
Steaked Avocado've occasionally bought what thought rpe avocado ad t1e discovered it was strwith brown lies iside What causes this?
ACKE ON
OE A
We cotacted several avocado specialisof whom cocurred that the brow, discstreaks (which impart a upleasat tasttexture) are caused by the icreased coctio of a ezyme i certai parts of the his phenomeo teds to be most severead late i the seaso (which varies depeo the variety) as well as i fruit grow i areas Ufortuately, there is o reliablto determie which avocados will be devstreakig except to try to purchase varietieare at the peak of their harvestig seasont1e popular dark gree ass avocado, the is April to October; for uerte, Novembue or ierto, ecembe r to Apri of fruit tat fees so or has air pockets, howte former are either bruised or overripe,t1e latter have probably sustaied damageimproper hadlig
SEND US YOUR QUEIONS e wil proe meny on eyer ss cripio n for ech lee r we pri Sin. nme. ress. n yi me elep hone nmer from ees Cooks llsre Box 408 BrMA0 o o noesfromreers@cpresscom
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has cm up wt h a way tmak sat nuts uab n rcps
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Rin th sh n ut n astran r u n r c watr2. Spra th nuts vny n armm baing sht an cat 50 grs r abut mnuts r untl h n uts a r an
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A Onon StoageLooking or convenient wy to store
onions, shllots, nd grlc n drk,
cool lce with len o ir circultion,
Viini Stutinger of Srng Texs,
brushed the dust o her littleused
bboo steer The bskets stck
esily nd llow just enough ir circultion to revent old
Cake Flp
Usng Salt toPevent FlaeUpsFat sputtring up rm a
brir pan can caus angrus ar ups T prvnt
ths ams ChristphrSt Wan His
Cai spras a gnrusamunt shr sat n t hbttm th pan
I . Cvr th bttm thbri r pan with aumin um
i an cu ps shr sat2. Pac th prat racn tp Th sat ayr cachsany gras an prvntsarups
ohn rl Bowe o f Brookyn, N ce u with this esy ethod f or turning ce out of n uncofortbly hot n
2.
I. Plce the cke n on to of le kitchen towel nd to with n inveted lte2. Gther ech coer of the towel nd hold the ends together on the botto o the lte Griing the towel tightly in one hnd,it the cke nd the lte together
3 . Plce your other hnd on the botto nd gently invert the cke n nd lte onto the counterto t o the n to rele sethe cke
Eas-Bake Setired of fubling through his cbinets
for bking ingredients, old Bines
o Khului, Hwii, kees lstic
coniner stocked with the stles:vnill extrct, bking owder bking
sod, cinnon nd so on When it's
tie to bke, he sily retrieves ll the
necess tes fro the continer in
one fell swoo
Stng behnd theScenes Whn in g mat with
butchr's twin it can bhar t avi cntam inating th ntir r withirty ingrs Insta cutting th stimat
amunt n aha timan ni ng up with
t much r t itt
Jm Mnaghan CapMay N his his solutionbin cs rs
. Pac th r twin insi a cabint in tcr bhin th hings2. Thra th twin ut abv th hi ng an c sth cabin t r. Pu th in t ti yur rastcutting ust th right amunt.
J U Y [ U G U S
2.
Magnetc RetevalWhen using cn oener, the lid so
ties dros into the cn vid Leo
of Atlnt, G, doesn't dir butt
knife to fish it out Insted, he rec
for hndy tool hnging right on th
rergetor decotive gnet
I. Use cn oener to reove th
2. Plce gnet over the cntcoes right out with no ess
Hng Ot to ySilicone bking ts cen u esil
it cn be hrd to get the cole
d rlyn ss of Burke, V, ttthe ts to clothes-hnger clis n
hngs the out to d ro cbi
door or the edge of nt shelf
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kHow do you give cold pcnic chicken great flavor without abby, stick s?
As with James Bond's martinis, te secret is shaken, not strred .
Cold barbecued chcken s a pccclassc aybe because pcncsoffer so much more than food(fresh ar, a nce vew), most
ople dont care that ths recpe oenesnt make culnary sense Coveredth stcky sauce, the chcke s hard to wth a fork ad mposs bly messy eaten
th hands nd because the chcken hasen cooked and then chlled, the skn sbby and the meat s so dry t squeaks I
nted pcnc" chcken good enough tove at my dnng room tableor starters, great pcnc chcken oughthave most, tender meat I deced I asonted the robust spcy an slghtl y sweetvor of barbecue On the other hand, Idnt want to have to lght the grll forsh that would be gong straght to thedge The oven s a much easer optonr a make-ahead recpe Aer samplngveral medocre recpes from varousokbooks, I knew I ha my work cutt for me Tung ths sh nto someng a lot better than worseforthe wear
overs was gong to be a tall order
t and D ede rst advance I mae was as uck
S A A
WS
t was dramatc About 90 percen of tig th chic vight ith st sic ub vids ll th
recpes I found called for slatherng bts big ith imtt dic bb ski
asted, sknon chcken wth barbecuece and lettng t st overnght Gven that man problem was soggy skn, ths aproachmed counterntutve The few remanng rec
s went the dry-rub route relyng on redces to provde tradtonal barbecue avorhough most got the avor wrongand weregued by the same blan-meat problem as thetsauce versonsthe skn was notceab y essgy the next ay So dry rubs were n, stckyuces were outTryng some smpe combnat ons of chl powr, back pepper, paprka, cayene, ad a tteown sugar for that trademark barbecue sauceeetness, I ddled wth the proportons untl Is abe to replcate the avors of a good sauce
Go to w.cooksillustratedcom ey n code 0 for or Ceay
elk Colesaw recpe ecpe avaae ntl Janua 00
By rubbng the spce xture all ver the chcken,even unde r the sk, I aceve the robst barbecue avor I thought only barbeu sauce colddelver hen tasters sampled the chcken thenext day, t drew raves for avor, and there wereno st cky gers n sght nfortunate ly, the sknwas abby
eary, I neee to spen more tme trmmngthe fat before cookng the chcen he breastand especally the thghs possess some excess fatthat never qute renders properly, no matter howlong the chcken cooks Right out of the oven,that fat s m ldly annoyng; the coagulated messyou bte nto the next day s dsgustng
The oluton came n two parts rst, a smpe but lgent trmng of the chcken pecesyelded mproved results an took just a modcum of effort and tme Second, by slttng theskn wth a sharp knfe (an beng arefu ot
O O s I. S T R ri D6
to cu nto te esh), I provded eshatches for the meltng fat drg rng; wth a al blas of heat (I wethe way to 500 degrees) n the fewmnutes, the skn was ncely rendThe ext day I found not tough, skn but a thner, avorl coat onpece of chcken though ths sknstll less tan crsp, I as makng seheadway
It Need atUp untl ow I had been followngtest ktches standard procedureroastng chcken, whch ncudes br(soakng n a soluton of water and Brnng yelds better avor and momeat, but tl1e added mosture also mfor abby sk Omtg te brnt1s recpe wasnt gong to be easyperhaps I culd get the salt nto t1e wthout 1e water
Back n ur research lbrary, I across a technque used by Jud odchef of San ranscos Zun Caf
salts all o f her meat, vegetables, andsh for up to three days dependng osze of the product The salt s thougdraw mosture out of the prodct ntthen, aer a few hous, the reverse pens, and the salt and mosture onto the esh (see Satng Better
Brnng?" page 7, for detals) The test kthas sed ths technque sccesslly wth sreces for beef, a meat tha t we never brne , ha never thought to try t wth chcke
Curous, I salted the chcken peces, bcarel not to under- or overseason, and
place t hem n a covered dsh n the refrgeovernght he next mon I ae my san roaste the chcken asters wated patas I allowed the chcken to cool to room perature (aer all, t1s dsh wasnt gong tserve hot) It was worth the wat he chwas well seasoed throughout ad the meatmost Best of all, the skn was avorl, deland entel y no abby The salt ng had woexactly as I hope, both seasonng the meakeepng t most, een durng hghheat roast
th the chcn where I wanted t to worked on streamnng the recpe I comb
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e spice rub with the salt and applied it at thee time, saving a step I also placed te ci ckeneces directly on te rack they'd be ooked on soey would be oven-ready te next orning Te
nal surprise, a completely unexpected bonus,as tat aer an overnight stay in t e fridge soef te spice avor had penetrated the meat alongit te salt Not only ad I come up wit a greatcipe for picnic chicken, but I ad stubled
ross a fascinating alternative to brining, oneat could poduce oist meat tat was also
eeply avored by e ans of a spice rub
S P I C E - R U B B E D P C N I C C H C K E N
ERVE 8
you plan to serve t1e chicken later on t1e s ameay tat you cook it, refrigerate it imediatelyer it has cooled, ten let it come back to room perature before serving On te breast piece s,e use toothpicks to secure the skin, whic otwise srinks considerably in the oven, leaving
e eat exposed and prone to drying out Weink the extra effort is justied, but you can omitis step Tis recip e halve s easily
5 pounds bone- n, skn-on chcken parts
(breasts, thghs, drumstcks, or a mx wth
breasts cut nto 3 peces or halved f small ) ,
trmm ed of excess fat and sk n
tablespoons kosher salt3 tablespo ons brown sugar
tablespoons ch l powder tablesp oons sweet paprka teaspoons ground black pepper
'h teaspoon cayenne
Following illustrations above, use sharpnife to make 2 or 3 short slases in skin ofac piece of chicken, taking care not to cutto eat Combine salt, sugar, and spices in
all bowl and mix torougly Coat chickeneces with spices, gently lifting skin to distribte spice ub underneath but leaving it attaced
lting Ch ik 0
ltng s an eectve method for seasonng c hckenroughout and keepng t mo st ere are some tps for
ong t rght
Pn hed. Ch cken salted for ess than sx ho urs
ooked up dry (N ot eno ugh tm e for the salt to traveto the chcken. But beyond hours the added saltegan to break down the nteror muscle fbers and t heeat cooked u p mu shy
et unde the skin . altng works best when the saltappled d rectly to the m eat the sk n acts as a barrer.Dn' t vest_ We had the best results when we
oated the chcken wth sl ghtly more salt than we no ra y would use to season t (After al l most of the saltnds up n the chcken Oufou: about I / teapoons kosher salt per I pound bonen ch cken
G E T T N G C C K E N N T M A KE AH E A D H A E
When ch cken s eaten at room tempeture or cooler a fowl's usual flaws become magned. or ths recpefoun d that a mod cum of ext prep wor ept the flavor texture a nd ap pernce from sufferng.
SCORE RUB C OUT P DOW
corng the sn (but not Applyng a sal spce rub Ardng the rubbed parts ec urn g the sn wthe meat) provded out both on the skn an d on a ck n the refrgetor toothp c s u st beles for meltn g fat yel d beneath t ensu red that overnght gave the flavors roastng kept the ng more ful ly rendered nether exteror nor nte t me to penetrte wh le from shrnkng up ntopaperthn sn r or came out b land
to ch icken ransfer cicken skin side u p to wirerack set over ried baking sheet, lightly tentwith foil, and refigerate 6 to 2 4 hours
2 . S ecure skin of each breast piece with 2 or 3toothpicks placed near edges of skin3 Adjust oven rack to middle psition; heat
oven to 425 degrees oast chicken until thickest part of smallest piece registers 40 degreeson instant-read theroeter, 5 to 20 minutesIncrease oven temperature to 500 degrees and
Salting: Better thn Bri ng?
aso dng out the sn. unattractve bundle
continue roasting until chicken is brownecrisp and tickest parts of breast pieces re60 degrees, 5 to 8 minutes longer, rem
pieces from oven and transferring to cleanrack as they nish cooking Continue tothighs and/or drumsticks, if using, until tpart of meat registers 70 to 75 degrees,5 minutes longer eove from oven; trchicken to rack and let cool completely brefrigerating or serving
In he test ktchen we' re strong advocates of brn ngsoak g meat n a sol uton of salt and water before cookhe meat absorbs water as wel l as salt wth th e latter hel p ng the meat retan the mo sture as t coo. Wth
p ce Rubbed cn c Ch cken however brn ng made he skn so o sove ths probl em we turned to saltng
chcken overnght whch helped the meat retan mosture as t cookedand d dn 't ha the skn
Chcken natural ly contans some sal and lots ofwatr whch coexst n a happy balance In coang the chcwth salt we threw o that balance. o restore order or equlbrum water n the meat moved to the sur
where t dssolved the salt.But woud n' t drawng all that water out of the ch cken make the stuaton worse causng the meat to
ou? I t certany dd u nt l we gured out the tm ng When we tred cookng chcken that had been salted
three hou rs the chcken cooked up dr er than f we hadn t salted t (he uces that had made t to the exte
smp ly evaporated n he oven ) But when we cooked the ch cken ater sx hou rs t he sto changed entrey
that pont the exteror salt had pu lle d so mu ch water to the su race that the balance of the salt concenta
had cha nged o restore equ l bru m th e water sm ply changed d rectons flowng back nto the meat But
tmeand here's the keythe dssolved salt went along for the rde Essentally we had "brned the chcusn g ts own u ces n stead of a bu cket of water
Once we successfu ly tapped nto ths means of del verng salt to the nteror we wonde red f t was possb
del ver other flavors the same way. t turns out t all comes down to whether the flavorng agent s watersol(l ke salt) or fatsolu ble Wth the rub we used for our pce Rubbed cnc C hcken the salt and brow su
whch dssolve eas ly n water flowed rght n as d d some of the dstngush ng avor compound s of the black pper cayenn e c h l powder and paprka But the spcn ess was waylad at the surace Capsacn the comp ound gves ch le pe ppers ther spcy heat s solubl e on ly n fat so t was unabe to on the caravan W
salt
water eat
3
J Y b A C S
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A Wy o G lling sm in ei sels roecs e delicae fles, bu seasonings are peeled aw
a e able Coud we deliver ender, flavoru gilled s imp-wi ou e s ells?
It's no secret that shrip can turn fromoist an d juicy to rubbery and dr y i theblink of an eye a cosequence of their smallsze ad lack of fat. Ad d the upredictbiliy
cooking over a live re ad the challege isagnied. Grilling shrimp in their shells to shieldem from the coa ls' scorchig h eat works well
ut I'm always disappointed whe garlic herbsd other seasonings get stripped off at the table
ong with the shells only to land in a discarde. I wanted to experiece tender jucy boldly
asoned grilled shrip without havig to licky ngers.
e Ou tstarted by preparing the test kitchen's existg recipe for grilled shrip subsituting peeledrimp for shell-on (I'd investigate avoringser.) I followed every andate plupig therimp in a sltwater brine (which helps keep theoist) threadig he onto skewers brushingth oil then quicky grilling over moderate heat.
er a few minutes over the re the shrip wereugh and dehydratedno surprise given theirell-free stte. Also probleatic was the absence
attractive ( and flavorl) char marks.Suspecting that brin ing was causing the shripbecoe waterlogged and thus hindering
ramelization I lit new re ad grilled a batchplain unbrined saples. Sure enough these
rimp began to pick up the avor of the grilth a few fait yet proisin g arks.
aving discarded brinig I next built anpecially hot re by banking the coals o onee of the grill. I seasoned a batch of shrip witht and pepper ( plus a p inch of sugar to encourageraelization) set the on the grate and waited.nd waited. Even with a screaing-hot re the
ly way to get sucient charring was to leave thermp on the grill or our or ve inutes yetch passing minute brought e c loser to shripk and farther o a decent dinner.Shrimp cook so quickly because of their smalle. Would jubo shrip afford me a few extranutes? Thirty-seven dollars later I had yswer. roducing a charred exterior and a ten-
Go to wcooksil lustrated.com Key n coe 766 for or ecipe for
Gll ed S mp Sewes wt FesTomato Sae wt Feta and Oves
ecipe ille ni n 27
? BY R E C C A ! l A Y S
soon as each shr mp develop s an aracve char goes nto the pan of sm merng sauce o fn sh cookng
at a much genter pader interior on these hey specimens was a sna pbut with a cost of ore than $2 5 per pound andspotty availabilit there had t o be a bet ter way.
Grublings to y colleagues about thisdilea were met rst with epathy and thenan ide . What if I crammed several noral-sizedshrip very tightly together on a skewer creatinga faux j umbo" shrip? Sure enough t1is hoeade giat shrimp cooked at a slightly slowerpace givig e t1e extra mintes of grillig tiethe shrimp needed or charring.
a by eWit a decent grilling method at hnd I couldnally start investigating avorings. Thus far I'dbeen coatig t1e shrip in oil but I wonderedf yogurt ayonnaise coconut milk or butteroffered any advantages. Coconut il k was prosig but too distincive so I stuck with relativelyneutral olive oil. I tried to add personalit tohe oil wh groun spices b hs was a mistae. During a moment of inattention are-uptorched t1e sice paste ing i bitter. Mincedgarlic? Scorced. Fresh herbs? Scorched again.
S I U S R A T
Scouring our li brary shelves I reviewedgrilled seafood recipe I could nd. I evenhappened upon a few recipes i which shwas given a itial sear over a hot retrasferred to a sauc e waiting on the coo leof 1e grill. Itriued I grilled fe shrimslid the into sauce that siered in a dable aluinu pan. These shrip were overdoe but having soake p te avsauce were good enough for two co-wowho po ished off an entre batch grill-side.
A few tries later I started trasferrinshrp to t1e sauce befre they ere lly coThis wy I could concentrate on gettingarks then switch to a ore forgiving coe1od ( gentle simering in th e sauce) unshrip were done . I nally had an infaliblipe that delivered everything I wanted in gshrmp: tender esh attrctive charring toavorand o shell s.
C A RC O A L G R I L E D S R I M P S K E W E
SERVES 4 AS A MAN COURSE, 6 AS AN APPETZE
The shrimp nd sauce (recipes follo) cooking together on the grill so preparsauce ingredients hile t1e coals are heatint all of the shrip o the cook ing grate atyou'll eed three 4-inch etal skewers. wit grilled bred.
1 pounds extra- large (2 /25 shr mp peele
devened , ta ls et on
23 tablespoons ol ive o l or brush ng sewers
able sat and gron d blac pepp er
1/ teaspoon sgar
recpe picy emo n- arlc auce or harm
auce (recpes olow
emon wedges or serng
at shrip dry wit paper towels. Tshrip onto 3 skewers alterating directiheads and tails (see llustration page 9) bo1 sides of shrip with oil and season lwith sat and pepper. Sprinkle one side oskeer evenly wit1 sugar.
2 . Light l arge c hiney strter ed withcoal ( 6 qarts or about 00 brquette s) and to bur until coals are ly ignited and pacovered wth thin layer of ash about 20 minEpty coals into grill; build oded two
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E C H I Q U E CROWE_NG_S H I M P O NT S K EWE
ss te skewer tro te center of eac srmp
yo add srmp to te skewer aternate tedrectons of te eads and tals for a compact
arranement of abot 2 sr mp Te srmp sold
be crowded and toc n eac oter.
re by arranging cals t coer nehaf f grill,aving ther half emty. Position cokng gratver cals, coer gri , and heat uni hot, abut
inutes; scrae grate clean ith gril brus.
3 et disosabe aluminum an with saucengredies on ht side of gri l l and cook sirected; transfer an to cool er side of grill .ace srim skewrs, sugared sids don, ono side of grate; use tongs t ush shrimoether n skeer if they hae serate. Grilri, uncred, uni ligty hrrd, 4 to
intes. Using tongs, i and ri unil secone is ink and sliht translcent, t 2 mints ngr
4 sin thldr r oven mitt, carely iach skr m gri us tongs to slid shrim skers into an wit sauc. ss shr i an
ac t cbine and trsr an to hot sie ofri; cook, strrng, unti hri ar aue and
The Right Setp
t rlled srmp tmn can be trc We soved te
obem by settn p two cookn ones O n te ot sde e sear te rmp over d eat ntl almost done On
e cooer sde we keep a dsposabe pan of smmernce were te srmp ns cookn at a enter pace
rowd n the s rm p on te skewers bot s a few extra
n tes on te ot sde vn te srmp better carrn
!y cooke, but 30 scnds. Remov frmgril add rmining sac igreits, an tssto cine. rnsfer t servig latter and srveimediately with e wdges.
A S R i l l E D S H R I M P S K E W E R S
llow ste f recie r CharcalriledShri Skewers. u all buers gas grill tohigh, cover, and heat unti vry ht, abut
minuts. Scrae rate clean with gril brsh androceed ith ste 3 f rci, sttin sauce asideff heat once hot a1d griling s hrim with liddwn, checking ccasinaly t ak sur theyreot uing (timing may b a ints lngrthan in chrcoal grill reie).
S P I C Y l E M O N A R l iC S AU C E
ME ENOG O CE P O ND M P- 4 tablepo on unaled butter cut into 4 piece4 tablepoon juice from 2 lemo n
' teapoon red pe per flae3 med ium garlic clove m inced or preed
through garlic pre (about tablepoon teapoon table alt
ipoable alumi num pan or pie plate
cup mi nced freh parley leave
ombine uttr, lmn juice, er akes, arlic, a salt in an. Cok ver t side of grill,stirrig occasioa y, unti butter ets, about z inutes; trnsr t coer side f gril a nroced t gril shrim, adin arsly just bforesrving.
C H A R M O U l A S A U C E
ME EOG O CE P O ND M P
hroua is trditial Morccan sice bend.
4 tableo on extravigin olive oil mal l red bel l peppe emmed eeded and
diced very mal l (about cup mal l red onion mi ned (about cup
eapoon papri a
teapoon ground cumin teapoon cayenne3 med ium garlic clove mi nced or preed through
garlic pre (about ablepoon
' teapoon table alt
ipoable alumi num pan or pie plate cup m ince d feh cilantro leave2 ableo on u ie from lon
Combine i, b r, nion, arika, cumin,cayen, a ic , an sa lt in an. Ck ver htside f ri, stirrn ocasionly, n ti vegetabssftn, abt minuts (2 or 3 minuts onerif usin s gril) trnsr to cor sie of rid ce t ri srim, addi cinr andn uic st r servig.
L L L 2 6
E Q U P M E T T E S T I N G
F t Skewe s Skewe theCompetitionWen I rt ot te assnmen to condceq pment test on skewers I red my ed tor
nally ost t. ow mc "perormance dercol d tere rea ly be beeen one p on ted stckanoter? Once I d s eyed te eld and tred
te desns wt or recpes for Grlled rmp
Gr led Onons (pae 8) my atttde cane
realy s poss ble to b y bad skewer.rst of al foret wat most rlln books
If yore cookn over very eat bam
skewers wl l bn and break apartno matter
lon yo soak tem n water beforeand Webetter ck wt meta skewers. Tey may more bt teyre resabe and tey can an dle
eartest kebabs wtot ben dn or breakn
Not a l metal skewers are created eqa l
ever We ad a to tme lppn food on ro
skewerste skewer tself trned j st ne bt
food stayed n pace lat skewers proved m
more effectve oble-proned skewers t
te food bt some were flmsy and most
tenden cy to twst ot of te r paralle l conton Oter models took te strdy concept
far wt b skewers tat severed sr mp n Or co ce: Any fat t n metal skewer w
We patclar y l ke Norpros 2- nc ta
tee kewers (sx skewers for $ I wc are3/1 nc tck Gart C n nsmt
FlAT AVORITE
Wt at meta te food trns al on wt te
skewer -B A M B O O - Z L E D
Even wt a soak, bam boo skewers brn and t
ron d sape sp ns w le food remans nmove
D O U B l E T RO U B L E
Tese do b le p rons were too lm sy to force
tro b l tems
T H C K H E A D E D
Bl skewes damaed de lcate fare
M O V N G V O L A T O N S
kewers wt sl de rs o r movn an dles were
ro on food
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zz Magita t Auenc ecies is Nealan zza call an OOdegee ven, w das n, and a dugh exer's hands We waned real Margheriahld he hassle
rian izza pars, is eo ng s a t r ig n sp r .S a r wi a sa , iping wih gobs f srthy
s, an oa wih msroms, ois,ons proni, ineapp, sasag an
or, e thi, wy rs tas on a srng rin mos itra sns. Naian pzzrias, y nras, t
st s ing. in, r is, an satringy, s rsti, woo r izzas sor a saring f iosy sn to
ngs tat sr as omemns rst
tr an as t ain nt. Th mostmos Napitan pizza is t arghrita,nsistng a ispy rs garnis witig r tan a t in vi f tomato
, ram ozzarea, a fres asi.
sa. o I o as ths stsn sramind ross? Ar severa atms, I fn hat was a saog straig ot f h fo roehis man t bas o ogh o risrax a t sam time. A hahy aminstan yeas t t rising tim o on
Stick wit M e ro ing i rs a niforpizza, whi strting ahs a thin srrn y ier gs. aaratrisi of ahni Naita
hi exps migt n tis mho I was having roe wih t w, sogh. I ae of o h atr nog am anagea. Th rsa rs ta was mor ray han Bas I n't han a ogh r war, I w hav t n anoway to mimi its ft.
B bringing t is s im sy of izza is anyting t si . s atni
is pn on te stratspri pras of a omeria vn, an rs
a o s ten to ir h saeay rst. Th f at g h rst igtir too ti an ffr (ming sssions, iossiboane ougs ).
wan to rrat this Naoitan asso aing t a r.
o acheve pa arghertas dsn ctvely lght th n crust wthou ta wood-fred oven we sp ked the dough wth cake flour
I hgt tat aig oi i gh t sir txtrris n th otnr n t insit insta th am ou oo so an foaia. yogt was t aan n t ra orn sig in avor of prs, hi
ating te loc k s is is iz za's fnan, so ga
t og. star wih the most asi r: ra or, atr, yas, an sa. Frm ays, isr ta wt ogwith a igr ntnat te st rst (an ntsaing aaes, bt ore n tat at .
ecrets tor Q ck Reipe
Eoto nned tomtoes
to yeld seedynoook tong.
,. P Use food oesso to
mx te doug to so tenknedng tme.
T rs pae I saed ie was in the mixin gof t og . A nt ripes a fr 0in ts of naing in a stanng mixr, b t ashis ssnia? T a a ra n in naig i , ri raing saning ixr ih af rssr. was sris a y tastrsn' tt ny irens bn gnade st its in a f rssr andg nad 0 t is onger in a ixr .
t ts tat iza is ore ab tndrnss n risness tn b sruue. e sownin g ain f a sanin g i r s
g s y an n siaes wi sei t. Hwer, wn o m s iza, aig is r y miig, anth fo rsr s st as aab as a san ingmixra m fastr.
Nxt p C r t rsing im? Tesies izza g tas a ast tw orso b in v, an any traina ri-ps a or a in of yast an an oi gt i se . r i se n, o g i s i d inbas, ese gan for a 5 ns, en
I I I
ower rotin ontn t an hrfor roa mor tnr og. Sr nog, h as imiaty asir on th ans anbaon e et . I was on th rig ra thogt e o ugh o se vn or nss. Bas ae o is th sos or m os n an, I ri aing iamons t og. n n, a irgy 1 ar a o t rts arr te ig, hin exte I as aer, ang was asy an .
ivn b home n I s usn g,ress ma pr sns. it is 800 d
f or por, a Neao a izzmmri oen a o a pizza gss th an fou m inu tsnot nog im foigrotin g g an ohe. In nras, my regar nra o its 500g axoo amst
Go o wcookssraed Key in cod e 767 for th results of
P Stone Tests This infomation wil be avaiable uJaua. 27
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ns, asn -n ado o on an s o nd an nd (S a Po an 8 00 n" )
opping It Oh I ad an a sa an, s-nd s oaos, s n, sn, an un w no a as annd oaos w , n ss
n, d omaos ad s wn k sd n ood ss,fon a sl nk nfm a ofsac ann lsd omaos was ssnao ao a so s sa, sa, sasl, and alc ondd o a a
Bas cs ook a 0 mns own and cs, sc a n of mo ook Addn fs aa aao h akn a onl wa os s fs a and mk aAl s a nd now was snn ofasl, a d of o ol, and a das of sa san o and a af o sa o n s as
asona, sa fo a a as ca a wa fo Nap ls
P I Z Z A M A R G H R I TA
M A K E S TWO 1 2 1 N C H P I Z ZA S
s cp s a a son and a onon ons w od a l, sa, and o wl nd o c oacookn m a mn o wo Yo an sa scond do ound w l1 s aks, b don' add opns nl js fan Yo can do s n ao f o k ; a do ason a lo an s and w aswa oad w nonsk coon sa f snoaa packd n n, a s sd fo acn m on a
Dough
/ teaspoons instant yeastcup ( ounces ater room temperature
/ cups ( ounces un bleached all-purpose flourplu s more for dusti ng wor surface and pee l
cup 4 ou nces cae flor 'h teaspoons table salt
2 teaspoons sugar
Toig (2 -o unce can diced tomatoes
teaspoon sugarsmall garlic clove m inced or pressed through
garlic press (optional
/ cup chop ped fresh basl leavsable s alt
ounces fresh mozzarella (see noe above
cu into l -i nch chuns
2 teaspoons extra-virgin olive oil
Gettg the Dough Shape J st Rght
I v de dough mm
daely afer mxng and
shape no smooh balls
2. laen round no 8-nch dsk o el mnae large
ar pockes
FOR T H E CRUST : js n a ws s, s sn n a,an a n 50 s sn , ws as n w s n oss w a , ss, sa, an sa n cm, a 5sonds man n, sw a o ; onn ss no s san, sc a a s s wokow, s ( a mn
do s sk n ns a, a asns a-os and n ossn I apas an cm , add l asons wa a css n foms a ) d a a a nosmo, as (s oo a) Pacon d on o a s, sa ma as 3 ncs a; o oos w ascwa coa w nsk ookn sa an s n o n ol, ao
FOR T TOPPING: n an w odoss, oss aos n s, woo sc ss ans ons san s o ow ad a aas 30 ns, sn aso as
3 .reh oue edgeswh aeed fngers whl e
gvng qua er urns
f dough evesos srech edbacks of hands
s a n da as, a, a ( an as , a asn
3 TO SAE OOK THE IZZA as a s, s a w a as as w s Ps a n 8 ( ) s a a, ges c, \ a an s s
4 ) a ; n s ff a ss , ad a on (a d saa, n aS o s ad a n s w, ao s w , os o, an w af o cs s, sac a sn and onn n s s js m, 4 5 nas n a; sn ann s, an , ansa Sc n s a a s, , ad snd a
- eat Pa tho t a 800 -D eee Ove aly p s seous bus ness Sc gud el es re placed on he
desgnaon of ue Neapol an pa ad o e of he euemens s a
ood ed oven ech g empeu es upd of 00 d egees
o see ha eec such exeme em peraues ould h ve on my ec
pe borrowed a local peras comm ecl pa oven bke d my pd compred h he pers ( mde h a do ugh ha nclude s
hgh pn flour) ou mnues le expeced o ulrcrp pas
o eme e bu m ne as oo sof al mos cakey he cus made hhghpoe our s lgh ede n d crsp Back he es kche
made my ecpe d he pes recpe (h he h ghproen ou)hs me he professonl dough fl ed yeld g a ough l ehe crus.Why dd my ecpe ok ell n a 0degree es kche ove bu
ur rece ddn' wor n n
degree oven bu s de or conenonl home oen
no n a n 8deree commercal oven And hy dd n he professonal cpe wor n o ur oven? Aer somscchng ealed ha me (no us emperaue) has a bg eec on he exue of he crus n h e super-hfessonal oven my dough cooked so quckly ha d dn have enough me o dry ou and becom e crsph ghflou r was essenal Back he es kchen he everse s appen ng he hgh- poen dough spe n so muchhe oven ha becme ough a ccke he ede rng l oproen cake flour n my dough ke he nhe crus so whle he rolonged bkn e crsped he exeror Apparnly you do n need an 8- degreo make gre pa Mahe rayou us ne ed he g dough fo he obE B
J ' \ ' 2 0 0 6
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efect Cuban-Style Pork RostGarcky, ctrusnfused pork s a natura or te bakyard rll. Unortunately, so ar drymeat, bunt skn, and fant avos. We rl roasted 200 pounds o pork to et t rt
Well knw f it umand ciga uba i alme t ante leeknwn ecialty f te
bbean: cituy galicky ated meat .f te bet eamle i lecho aado
at k ainated in a avful mif ctu galic live il and ice.
diti call f a wle ig cked nt ve a wd e but many mode
in ue a uckling ig e am k ulde intead. F cnvenence te ject i metime bugt
and ated in te ven .
r:
with lv infuin late. Fist I antedgue ut t et way t cook te
Letting the k sit vegt inwking minade citu juice gaand live il oceede to ck it ndiect eat bankng te cal on eitide of te gi ll and lcing te abten. Hou lte te inti eaced y taget degee but gtin tee a tediu. o kee the m ting to dk ad t t evey 30 minut tt seo it ti e sesin. Ad tat
te numb f time ad t eelee te ccal fom dying out nd gill li lyin th gund almuc a it a cvein the ok.
y gal wa t eceate ti blded di with it cacklingci kinde meat and bacing gal ic-c itu
e. I anted a ecie tat culd bee utd (geat f lage ummeie) a well a a vaiatin tat could
ade ind (f cit dwelle ade n). Ae teting alf a dzen
e in vaiu ckbk I alized Iy k cut ut f me. ut kneeled ff cewy meat o d y eve tee culdt ave it and mainae tatd t at muc av wee cmmn
ble. i ecie i a ject: If teue and av aent gat wy bote?
Ul Cao aty l pu d po c fal l apat hd C uba pooat lcd to u cy o l
ee hd to e btte y. I t died t-lve bank all coals n sie f te gill d ckthe k ve the ide ithut te chi wa n iovment bt a fun too n. ht if sate ith ihe at the lt th e sdie ut? Unrtunatly a u qu f co d een usi t a c y qut) ut te i tatu fte il to a ccin 4
Awate ated on te gill in te venan-tyle at k a a tete ehee
ween that f a juicy iceable Ameica kt wic ook) efe cokd t abut 5ee) and ll aatwhenyo u tuc - it ulled (ced t almst 00 dee). bestentic cie I amld caled fo a inta
eatue of aund 90 degee at which te cllagen and t ad tly b
ad eneed ut nt ute t l- datin. A fo te cut we wth the nculde (en imly labeed k huld")neenive fatt bn-i cut that ce
a eneou an of n attached ey kin ae all a al lmak f ti d . ( eeking te efect Pk at" ight. )
o to wcoosi l lstatedco ey ode 765 or or estng of
Remoe Meat Thermometers. Avalabe t Jaa 27
h c u u vi t ut t t uc:fuse t w \t J ith i wt st) c sv u o th usi ict t cut c s csthn tss t tt j ucm- " suc c \ tt tt oss ou uty . ud
dee vin ok tt e ajlcd than u-td.
Dicuged I de th I thw th t ad cs o an o mthit. A a ttil ubntyl k oaly ck outds f cty t
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th I s
Blan meat, nteo, avoless custtee common poblems wt g l l
oaste pok, eac o wc em ans ts own, cu stomze solu ton o te blan
s s, a na
nal, wana was nw sd ls a sa a, a bv n al lsj wasn' n adall
meat an nteo, we combne a ttonalbne salt, suga, an wate) wt a ctus manae.
o tcet up te lavo o te cust, we coate te
exteo wt a potent galc -ctus pate ust beoe
cookng
I
x -
I
) l skn sas a sn a d a sd n ll ( a s a)aans sl s n nsn as as (s nld as analna), n was a s ds a a
Keep ing a d on I t n n a n a a ass and l a, s sa n ll, n as ns lann s , a lsk ln al S , sanw a s n all k as l s a d w n ans as a 35 n, s nal a waan 30 s s la, aa 90 as w n l aa 'd sd j n n aa
M a n aal rnsns n aal lnns, lla t as al s lss nnl n a w n an, wnd d s rk s a a a as n as l w aln i aa sa wak a ns sn as d a sl as a l " (s n a4), w alw a la an a n ak M
an, ad ss N llsad ls n sssn
lates of the CarbbeHa s a l al anan k sl ( as) al wn w a af w as a d d s aanas n a n a, as l s n, n an assa s ( n js s
PE
nas rs a nl was w as a a ls w dass ans a l s ( s wl a, n a l aa w anan k js a a
w as) ass w aas, w aal nn n s n, andsw ss sas n s na l j an lad ssan j an a an an, w, ass l' l
As as, a ln
as a, sa, , a, , ll, an j, l a s w na a ( aall, n ns aj a ), w j n n a wss a t s an as' s as
All t e Rest nw a a s ( n ss ) n an a a wn n nsn a n ann wa annssn sns as (an, s, na la ) awas a a ,
an n was ls a aa a, n s a n a n san j sa a sa
s s a nn (sak n a sl sal an s sa) ana ls, was aa snn s san k n a ana answ was k s n's as a a n,la s wa a j,an a a n/ana sa l la ( s awa) n san
wn 8 n 4 s asla a a n n t n
M a s f a n na n, w al js s l a M n ka wa n n a s, aas 3 ns wa j ann d n a nsn a n w as a n As , an n n n
, T ( o ) [)
E Q U I P M E T T E S T I G
Cha coal Ch mn ey StateWe've long con se e a c mn ey tate to b
best way to lgt cacoa ape lke ove
coee mugs, tese metal contptons ae
nto o cam be, te lowe o wc ols
seet o cumple newspape that once t,
te cacoa n te uppe cambe tey, wbeen stuck by ow ma ny c mney tates
ae on te maketan ow eent tey ae
te Webe moel we use o we oune uc mneys to see wc on es woke best
A ew o te c mn eys wee no nstartes, t
to see capacty Wle ou Webe osenoug cacoa qua ts) to an le te eg l ng applcaton tat eque g eat,
moes el sgncanty les, at 4 quats
ne o a me um level e, but not ea l o
tng a eep, ak sea on a poteous e steakmoe , te even Rac en , a oom to ac
moate a wopp ng 7 qu ats o cacoal . wee concene, te moe capac, te byou can always l l te c m ney paray)
Oterwse, te esgn eences wee One moel was esgne wt a tap oo
metal gte sepaatng te two cambes
matcaly gve way as te c m ney s l te,
tng te coal n a p le ts a novel esgn, bu
eal o bu l ng two-level e Poung tcoals wee you want tem s muc eae
muc es angeoustan eaangng tem
tongs ate te al) A esgn eatue teste
appecate wa a econ anle oun on
Webe an te teven chl en ) , wc ma
ease-tocon to coal stbuto n In te en
no- l s Webe was aequate o mot g l l
I you bee mot equ es moe uel, te
Rac en 's exta u at o cacoal may be wte exta cas tl not en oug ? Buy two We
O U R AVO R T
e W Rapd FreCh ne Stater $ .99
s te gt ze an as a
elpul secon anle
' B G N N E R
e Iest o arbec ue
Ult ate Ch ne Starter
$9 .99 s pcy but ol s
eno ug coas o lage g
JUST A TR AP
e OCharcoal Starter $ 9 9
o s ony a ew coalswc all toug a tapoo upon tng
Gart Cl ngng
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Q L L L TO BRE TE PORrotecting the pork roast with an a lu min um foil s hiel d, we kept it from getting
dark on the side c osest to the heat-no rotaton require.
i sa a in ni , in s i s (abot n on) l oas,sa ao ins aasso sa an sa n 6as od wa in sot a Si n ain oan ji Sm in in an a 8 os
T O A P P L Y T E A R L C - C T R U S P A S T E
Make two 1inc h folds on the long s ide of an 8i ch ength of foi to form a
orce edge Place the foil on the cen ter of the cooking grate, with the rei n
ed edge over the ho t s ide of the gri l l Posit on the roast, skin s i de u p, over
cool side of the gri l l so that it covers about a third of the foil Lift and be ndedges of the foi l t o shield the s ides of the roast, tucking i n th e edges
ross a, mn, oao, sa, an in oodosso ni aonssn o oas as,ab n son lss i man nnn, aan j, n, a oi
os, now lan inio os wr b as ois ain al s
o n now was a n sasojo sa, w o i mo oom ma w o
a wi man o sam inns n n an as, mojo b , s i o ao s I o a an, ai o an a si om an io, I nw m os a n wot : sa nal on s mojo ba
C U B A N - S TY L E R I L L - R O A ST E D P O R K
SE RVES 8 T I 0
in ook oas s o a o will
noial m n ma is as ass sn a sol b s a wat o a wi ojo Sa (iows) aiionl amamns in ans, i, an lantans
k ad B ie
bone-in kin- on pork pini houlder
to poundup ugar
up table alt
mediu m garli head, un peeled l ove eparated
and ruhed
up orange ju ie
lic- Citus Paste
mediu m garli love peeled and oarely
hopped about f uptablepoon ground umin
tablepoon dried oregano
tablepoon table alt
teapoon ground b lak pepper
tablepoon orange jui e
tablepoon ditil l ed white vinegar
tablepoon ol ive oi l
o n ss n moms so, w as, ab 20 snsm o om n an ns n o
nnin wa; a wi ws as a an in ss a n a
3 TO RLLROAS THE POK sinimn sa, s aa (at60 s ) an bn n ni n at i a in s, a 5mns s n ; mi w aanin oas o oona n n a osin oon o s , o i , an atnti , ab 5 mns; sa a lawi bs P a as w s n s on s an s i
on o oos ao an on i tma as 5 s, 3 s (as w n ial isina) s, a on 35s wi a n owmi siin
n i a as an o 5s, m a ns oas wia s mm an s o o asinan wi a as n n ni skin iswn an is an insan- mminsd in is o at iss 0s, 3 os ans as inboa an s o , s m
sin in on a i Sa n sa o , n aw o on in a s S a aans aininto - n s s o s sn, sa ss a ns an ss D zz MjoSa o o js b o sn
C U B A N S T Y L E R I L L - R O A S T E D P O R K
O N A A S R I L L
l Fow i n- S -oasP s
S ' S F
a i rs o , os i, a nil , ao 5 mins Sa lan wi il s n o all t imb ( a will main on in in ) a oas wit skn s on oo sil, sil wi oi (s otos, lt) o an w imar n o mimmim-hi ( ill tma sho b a35 s) oo nil skin is on s an insana momt in s is a o ma iss 0 s, a6 s, oain ma 80 s n moi sil aa o ooin i Fostin an siin insins m s
C U B A N S T Y L E O V E N R O A S T E D P O R K
Folow i o an St l -RoaPo to s t on o 35 w a in wmi oson
Pa ok wit sin si on on i s imm akin s o n oastin i ak , no, 3 hors Fi
sin si an onin o oo nil nsa mom ins no is ma iss 0 s, a 3 hs moil nin oas wi ol i skin ins oo a oow sin an sin insm s
M O J O S A U C EM A K E S I C U P
sa an m i ook is stin t a a aa o im ia in an aiit onin I il sa m to om ma
sin
4 mediu m garl i love mined or preed thro
g press (abou t 4 teapoons teapoon koher alt
up ol ive oi l teapoon grou nd uminf up diti l led white vinegarf up ju ie rom to 2 orangef teapoon dried oreganof teapoon ground blak pepper
min ai on n oa
sinkl wi os s sn at si n, da l an sal a and o a o n sma ia mois ni is on ino smo as
Ha oli oi n im saan omm a nil smin A ali aan min an oo, sin, ti aao 30 sns
3 mo an om a an wi sk in in nns. ans o o n ooom ma isk sa o o sin
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Ru ud ZhThis sumrim sapl coos up soggy and blad in h s ll. Could w bai i ou
Gratig zucchi i s the best methd fr gettig theater ut c earig the ay fr maxim um favr
ee's a eason zccn sal esossed ono a o , and has no n o do wh e season onnedwh e nense, d ea o a e e,
e wees eeae n e arden (ao 95ecen wae) qck ees ecess mose,ean end conc enaed laos s ckon e soeo and o e a anl o sosesqash sew Whe ea s woks s mac , e ack o a soed ae meansee's no escae oe o e q d
e sece o saed zcchn , en, s oeac as mc wae as osse bere he sass e an e mos common mehod s osa n-sced zccn, le dan n a coane,n ess e dsks ween ae owes en en, e dsks ma sl e waed
eno o nh ownnSea eces ond ca d sedn eccn on a o aer, seezn e she ds na kcn owe, an cokn m n a o ske e ad news s: ese ecs al coked so, w an on seamed ao en ow c ohe ao-san wasae o eac om e ses, e med seseeed osn
scadn e see, wa coes made eseds noceal de, e es soonas ncroae cnes om
_ V sa l /ess ed as w : oss esheds w sa, an em n a coane,and wn m n a kcen owel waseasan ssed o d a sedded zccn nes e mn es ann, a ac o a ho e ed sced d sks
cankn e a and mnmzn sn, ad ende, owed zccn ess ha e mnes e on olem le osoe was a s c m, aned e e, chmad ck o se la neensee n. he k, ond, was o ss e aw sed sw oe o ee addn hm e an
Z U C C H I N I WI T H GA R L I C A N D L E M O NSE RV E S 4
BeadCumb Toig (otioal
slice s white sandwch bread torn i nto quarters tablespoon s unsalted butter
Zuhii
5 medium zucch in i (about ounces each
ends trimmed
able salt
smal garlic cloe mi nced or pressed through
garlic press (about 1 teaspoon
tablespoon plus I easpoon extra-irgin ol ie oi l
plu s extra or sering i desired teaspoons juice rom I lemon
round blac pepper
l FOR T BRD CRMBS (o ona ) :lse a n d ocesso coaseond ea n 2 nc nsck sk ee medm- ea n m dd eadcs an cook, sn e w eaoo e saa, n oden wn, ao3 mn e s anse sa w an se asd
2 FOR TE ZCCN: ac zccncossws n seeal eces, eac 2 o 3 nches
on S ac ece n ae oles o oae, an as nd a sddnseds an c (w c sl e scad oso a a cs s zccn oss zccn 1 easons sa and ac ncoande se n mdm ow an 5 o 0mnes Wa zccn kcn o, n aces ncessa, an wn css mse
3 ac zccn n m w an eak an ae cm s on ac w 2 easns n sal w a r zcc nan ss cn o
A L l (
4 Hea eann 2 easoons o nnonsck skle oe ea n anaeas dd zccn and sead eenwh ns cook who sn n ae owns, ao 2 mnes s we, a clms w ons, en cook noom ae owns, ao 2 mnes ea, s n emon jce and sa and ease Sere m edael, drzzn w adoe o, desed, and snkln wcms, sn
Z U C C H I N I W I T H TO M AT O E S A N D
S E R V E S 4
on e 3 cored, seeded, and dced oes, sa coe mnced ac, eassamc nea, 2 easoons ea-n o easoon sal and 2 aesoons choas e aes n s all ow and se asde Foe o Zcc h arc and Lemon 2, om ac n se 3 and elacnj ce w o1ao m re n se 4 sen ae, srnke c neamesan, and sere mmeda e, drzzaddona ole ol, dese
Z U C C H I N I W I T H S P I C E D C A R R O
A N D A L M O N D S
SE RV E S 4
Folow ses 2 and 3 o ece o Zccac and Lemo n, omn lc n se aesoon ea-n oe o n 2- nsck skle oe medm hea n sn dd c aed cao and cookoccasona, n ende, ao 5 mn asoon coande and easoon elakes and cook, sn consanl, n ao 30 seconds ncease ea o zccn and c oden rasns and
een n an ons ook n owns, ao 2 mnes s we, eaan clms wh ons, n cook nm ae rowns, ao mnes mea, add c slce, oased amon s, comne S n 2 easoons emand sa and ee o ase See mmzz n w addona oe l ds
Go to wcoosiustrat Ke in 76 o ou ecpe orZ
wt Peas ad es Recpe avaiab e unti Janua ,
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ll G Kichen D yu really need $400 worth frged erman steel er;s ur guie t chosiand sig the essetial knivesand which nes dn't make the cut.
anufaurers o p you in o buying boks wih a dozen kn ives, bu sharp shoppes inves on y in he esseni als.
- I N C H C H E F ' S K I F E Boser Bascs
rom hoppng an on ion o min ing herbs and buhering a hiken,h is one knife wi l hande 9 0 peren ofyour kihen uing work.
Mos forged knives have a hi k oa r of mea n earhe hande a led a boser Designed o baane
oged o Samped?onvenional wisdo m diaes ha forged bladesmade by pour ing
molen see ino mol dsare superior o heaper samped bades,
whih are pun he ou of a shee of seel Ou r ess showed ha
he forgedsamped di sinion is less im poran han weigh. Some
esers i ked he maneuverabi l i of he l igher knive s, whil e ohers
referred he surdiness and baane of a heavier forged bl ade
he weigh ofhe b la de, i poses a probem for
home sharpe ners, as is hikn ess preens he eel
of he bade from passing hrough he sharp eni ng
han ne . Over he ouse of many sharpeni ngs (whihgadu aly wear down he bla de) he boser may
sar o prorude, prevening he bade from making
smooh ona wih he uing board.
Maeria WordMos ua i bla des are made from high
arbon sai n ess seel, a hard mea ha,ne sha rpened , ends o say ha waye reomme nd hem .) Some pu riss
refer arbon see kn ives, wh ih may
ake a sharper edge in iiall y bu don
eain for as lon g. xpensive erami
ades are ul ra-sharp bu ulra-fragi le
Ce Appeahef s knives wih a ong, geny
sloping urvaure beer performhe roking moi on neessay for
in ing and hopping han hose
wih a relaively sraigh lin e ha
urves abrupy a he ip.
* AN WNN R AR *
eing a Hande on Ie prefer moded p as hand es overhose made from wood (whi h o lesgrease and di r) or mea (whi h an ge
sli ppe) . M os of ou r es oo prefer
a simpe shape (no "ergonom bu mps
and ridges) an d a smooh eure raher
han a "pebbed inis h The handle shou d
balane he weigh of he b ade, making
The inexpensive, l igweigh FORSCHNR FIBROX ($ 3 6) was he favorieamon g esers who fan y l igher knive s Those who l ike a surdi er forged bad e
preferred he WUHOF ND PRIX I I ($ 94) s l reasonaby l igh
a igh, omfoabe sea wih your han d
hen shopp ing for a kn ife, ou boh
ommon grips (see "Two Basi Grip s,page 7 before aking your hoie .
- - - - - - -
1 IC PARING KN FE
paring kn ife is esseni al for ask ha requ ire
more dexeri and preisi on ha n a h efs knife
an provide peel ing and oring appes , devein ing
hrimp, uin irus segmens, a nd more.
he bade of a paing knife should be somewha
exible for easy maneuvering ino igh spossuh as omao ores) and for han dli ng urves
when peel ing and paring
* A W N N R *ih a paring knife, weig and balane a reess mporan han a sarp, agi e b lade a nda firm, omfoabe grip . The FORSCHNERFIBROX ($5 95 ) as boh for a ow pr ie
0 C BRAD KNIFEThe poi ned serraion s of a good bread knife glid e hrough rusbreads, bages , and omao skins o produe nea s l ies , wi le a poory
designed bread knife sli ps, suers, and sh reds is way hrough food.
A slighy urved bla de
keeps knu kles from
sraping he uingboard, al lowing aroking moion o uhrough ough russ
Poined seraions
give he bla de a goodgrip on he food righaway, wh i e wavy serra ions s ide aroundbefore digging in .
Knives shoer hanI 0 inhes endedo ah heir ips
on arger loaves;he b ade should berigid for sabe u inghrough ough russ.
* AN WN N R *The FORSCHNER FIBROX ($ 36) has i a l , i n u d ing
he os omfoable hande.
I D 6
O M M D D SDepending on wha you ook, you maywan o expand your rsena o in udesome of hese oher useful b lades
B O N N K I F EThe s im , f exib le b lade of a boni ng knife
is invaluabe for s l id ng hrough oi ns ,beween bones, and und er s i ver skn.
hoose a b ade beween 5 an d 7 i nhewih a apered ip an d an easy-o-griphand e, suh as he Foce i ox
: g ($ 8 ) , .
\ ' : S L I C I N / C A R V I N KN I F EA good aing knife does one hig ony
hi n , un iform sies fom ae us of mea
ou eiher ne ed one o ryou do n . ook fa saigh, nonseaed edge wih a un ifor
widh (a eas l in hes) from han dle
rounded ip and a rigid I 0-in h bade, l ik
ha of he Cef Ctl eged 10 ic
Gato Sl ice $45 see page 32) .
r - CLEAVERAbou e on y ime we reah for a mealeaver is when making homema de hi
sokwe 've ou nd he bes way o rele
favor from he bones i s o hak hem u
you ake his ask regulary, ons ider h
supersharp, surdy Gloal ($ I 06) or
l igher-we igh moSap ($40)
-! : ELECTRIC KFEi de from arving large hol iday roass,
eeri kn ives do an exe en job uinin o foods ha are a de u p o ayers widisin ly irm an d sof exuressuhas pean p ie and quesadi l aswhih ange mashed by a regula r hefs kn ife (Foperfeioni ss , admi edly.) e es ki
winner is he lac ad Dece EK800Slice Rigt ( $24 99) .
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A knife loses is sharpness when he in ip of he uing edge ges knoked sligh y
u of alignm en, w hih an happen any ime he bade ma kes ona wih food
or a uing board. he knife may a dul ev en hough he edge i s si l q ui e sharp
i s jus poined in he wrong dire ion his an happen very qui kly if you are do
ng a o of heavy uing work, b u he edge an be ju s as qu ikly resored by u sing
sharpei ng see, whi h reaigns he edge and removes sligh irregua riieswo ways o proe your knifes edge ar e o avoid hard uing surfaes su h as
lass or aryi (sik o wood and pasi u ing boards) and o keep hem ou ofhe dishwasher, where geing knoked around migh damage hei r edge.
IS I SARP?o deermi ne i f your kni fe needs o be
sharpened, pu i o he paper es .
I Hod a folded, bu no reased, shee of newspaper by one en d
2 y he b lade agains h e op edge aan angle and sl ie ouward If he knife
fai ls o s i e lean ly, ry seei ng i. If i si l l
fa ls , needs sharpen ing
SINAND SINA SEELou shou ld see your knives regularly, before ea h us e if possibl e, bu sharpen hem
ony when neessary radiion a seels are l ighly grooved, magneiz ed i ron rods,
u we prefe he newer diamond seelsh o low oval ubes oaed wih d iamondus hese grind rae amou ns of meal from he knife wih ea h swipe, parially
harpeni ng he bl ade whil e sraighenin g i and exend ing he period be ween
harpenings. H owever, keep in m in d ha seelin g will on y reaign a fairy sharp
lade; a du ll kn ife has o be sharpened (see bel ow).
Hold he see p erpendi a r o he work suae,wih he ip resin g on a uing board
2 Plae he h eel of he bl ade agains he seel , wih hebade a a 20- degree angle away from i
3. ih a loked wris and l igh pressure, sl ide
he bade down he engh of he see in a sw ping moio n, p u i ng he bak of he bade oward youo ha he en ire engh of he b ade omes i n
ona wih he see
Repea he moion o n he oher side ofhe blade Four or ive srokes per side shou ld
eaign he edge.
SAENINhere are wo opions for grin din g a new edge on a kn ife a ho me
Shapeg stoe his ehod is effeive bu akes som e praie, an d i smore work han many home ooks wan o do I i nvolves a do ub e-s ided sharpen
ng sone, some elbow grease, and aou m inu es per b lade . (or sepbysepnsruions, see ook's xra, below a righ)
2 Kfe shapee An eer i home sharpener an resore h e edge of even aeriousy negleed blad e, p rovided you buy one wih a oare regrin di ng wheel,
suh as o ur favorie, he ef'shoce 0 ($ 80) . Some less expensive modelsfeaure only med um- and negrade s s ,god for perking up a slighy dul bade bu unab e o grind a omplee y new edgehese mah nes do remove a erain a moun
of meal from he b lade wih eah use, souse hem no more han n eessary.
BIF CI Q UWO BASIC RIPS
Hadle p
ih h e hand e gr ip , h e humb ress
on he side of he han dle opp osie he
in dex finger hi s grip is he favored by
es ooks wih sma le r hands For hose
Blade p
ook wih larger hand s ofen prefe
he b lade grip, in whih he humb a
index finger aual y gr ip he heel of
he b ade h i le his gr ip requi res a
who work lo ng hou rs wih a knife, i aso more han d srengh, i also proviesauses fewer a uses more onrol over he ip of he bad
SAF E S I W A D IN H AND 'By properly posiioni ng he ha nd ha is no hod ing he kn ife, you a n prevens i ppage, onro he size of he u, a nd
proe your in gers.
In his bear law posi ion , he inger ipsare urle d bak away from h e knife o hol dhe food in pae, wh i le he knukles res
agains he side of he bl ade , providi ng
guidane wih no danger of being u
o u mu l ip l e s l ies , use he u rvaure
of he ba de o guide he knife hrough a
series of smooh uing srokes S ome pa r 1. - /of he b ade sho uld remain i n ona wih -.\: ,he u ing board a al l imes. Dring he .upward moion, reposi ion he guid i ng
hand o se up he nex s l i e
O PP I A D I C I Ghis fas, oni nuou s moion makes
quik work of fresh herbs, oni ons , andhe l ike I begins wih he handle heldhigh and he kn ife ip on he u ngboard, held gen ly in plae wih hegui ding ha nd he fron half of he bladeremains i n ona wih he uingboard a a l imes.
AREF CARVINhe key o smooh , even us
is a ong sroke wih very mil d
downward pressure Le he
knife do he work, and avoid
shor, sawing srokes, whi h
yield ragged s i es
o to w coo ksl lu stated com Key n code 7 3 o ou Illstrted
Gde to Sreg Kves Avaale unt anu a I , 27
U Y A U G U 1 7
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Hw t Gill OninsGrlle nns sally ck backeed tsie and raw insie Is there a better wa
Grn onons s rsk snss
rns a a tndnc to sp rot rat, and on t t coas, ando u n ams r t rsst t
of rat and smp rn and ackn rtr t ar 'r almost awas nnokd: raw on t nsd, atr on t ot
d And, inta, t'r ard to mana on rt' a rocss akin to rdn catM rst tout was to start wt a t ofcookn, t ta t smd s I trd rn
nons wo, a d, and artrd to k tmom fan tro t rat, t wt css ar, t otr ars tndd to for
ntrors nisd cookn Ad non offrd da of caramd xtror C oncdn at cs wr t loca ct (t xpos tatst rfac ara, I nta cos a nr
s afnc scHot rs ncnratd th onons, an d mdm
ot rs on rstd n rnd rns Modratat was t st wa to prodc a nt caraml
d xtror I pacd a fo an or t ononsk tm surrondd hat o stop t rns from plunn tro tat, I trd mta askts, wtot mc ck,
t skwr rod k (For t rst of orwr tsts s a ) o l t skwrs, I
on arnd to nor t rondd ands,"c t t scs sn Mor ffct was toa t cntrmost non slc wt tons os an onon art work for rn Ysd no Swt, md Vdaa onons a s a
watr contnt tat t cam ot mmd nspd wn rd Rar ow and
Y Z ; 3 \
wt onins a mor t, c mowd
aftr a tnt or t t coas, and rd nonsa xtra pnts for ook t or srsfaort was Sans onons, w won or tastrs wt thr mat ttr an d, com x"lar ro
C H A R CO A L G R I L L E D O N I O N S
SE RV E S 4
A tw- r n a carcoa r aows o toook an ntr or t ottr d w rint1 onons or t oor sd Sr nadorndr s n on of t rcs t1at foow
large Spanish onio ns (about pounds) .cut crosswise ito 1- inch round s
3 tablespoons o ive ol
Koser salt and groud bl ack pepper
rge disposable alumin m baking an
l rad onons onto mta skwrs; ac onakn st an rs ac sd wt o Sa sonac sd nros wit sat and ppr
2 t ar cmn startr d wt carcoa (6 arts, or aot 00 rtts and ltrn nt coa ar f td and partacord wt tn ar f as, aot 20 mn
ts Emt coa no r; d two- r stakn twotrds of coas n on af ofr andarrann rman as n sn ar n otrha ac ri rat or coas, or r, andat n rat s ot, aot 5 mnts; scraprat can wt r rs ac onons orcoor sd of r a cor wt amn m an
Tps o Keep g G l led os at Bay
S A F E T Y L I N E
You d o' e cedi fo oio ha
pue houh he ae o a
icdia di. Skewe keep
he i ou of ham' wa
I N S I D E J O B
Cove he o io wih a foi pa
ceae a ove effec ha co ok
he i eio fae (Fo a i ,
ju ue he id )
O F F H E H A D L E
I awkad o i p a kewe b he
ouded " hade ead ap a
cea ocaed oio ice wih
o ad e u i ove
K S S A
r onons, cord, nt onon r
ar dp odn rown and jst tndr,20 mnts, hckn onons r 5 mand ppn and rotatn skwrs a ndnsr cookn ransfr onion to and rmo skwrs; dard an otr crn Sr ot, warm, or at room tmr
G AS G R L L E D O I O N S
Hat r wit d down an a rnrs t tnt r ot, aot 5 m nts or mdm and ac onons on r o ntst of rc for Charcoa-Grd
omttn dposa almnm an an kr d down xcpt wn cckn onon
S W E E T A N D S O U R G R I L L E D O I O N R
W I T H A R S L E Y A N D O L I V E S
M A K E S 4 C U P S
h rs maks a ood accomanimrd tna
sk totr 2 tasoons rd in 2 taspoons xtrarn oi ol, tasar, and sat an ppr to tast n smast asd ac rcp rld non,
and copd nto -nc cs, n mow, aon wt1 cp ttd and coamata os, c rasns, c codars, drssn, an addtona sat and to tast; str to comin Sr
G R I L L E D O I O N R E L I S H W I T H
R O Q U E F O R T A N D W A L N U T S
M A K E S 4 C U P S
Sr th r wt rd
hsk totr tasoon asamic
taspoon trarn ol , and sar to tat n sma ow st a rp r nns, cood nd no -nc s, in mdm ow aon oncs crm ofort cs, p toastd wants, V4 p cs, drsn, and adtona salt and tat; tr to cmn Sr m mat Go to w .co oks lstrated
Key in cod e 76 for our reci e forOnio n Tomato and Arugula Saa
Recpe available until anua 2
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Bette asta Salad it esAt ts best, pest s esh, geen, and ull hebal lav. Culd t stay that way
even when added t an Aecan pasta salad
Mre ligh a rshing hn reambase sauce r a chukyrag, pes akes pnchampaien asa dur
g he sury suer ms. There's igmpica abu his ucked Liguria sauce,
hich csiss prcesse esh asil, garlic,e us, armigianReggia cheese, ad live. nd tssig i wih h, juscked pasn' be easier. Bu numer us issues aris nces is aded a pasa sala. The rerigeratorl ls he cr and vr he pes, wh ich
s greasy ad clupy as he pas cools.
ecting t e Petbeg y rying varying rais he ve iea ingredies basi , garlic (banched brey e is harsh bie), armesa cheese, olive oi
ravirgi), and pin us (sd enhaceeir nu avr) . oun ha ad use a lbasi bewee 3 nd paked cus) o achievecen herbal avr nd he blk ned r hs cling he psa. Bu when mae evenew hurs ahea ime, e basil urne ark,
uy, and muh less sprgly. ding nhereen emen seemd he bvious sui.
rsey is c rick bu needed use souch i begn cpee ih h e basil l-r. ' seen zen chpped spinch used i ne
ie. W i ued pes nice, brighae gree, i als me he eue sringy.
he easy sin was ad a sml amun fesh baby spinach cup added 3 cups sil), hich prvided a vely brigh gree clor
Y
ad sh ur wihu inerrig wih hebsi vr.
Wi le he relivy hin cnsi seny rdiina pes mih e ne fr h ndles, ahicker, cremier pso was in order or rm-emerure ps . Bu mer h muh ld wih ingredien mouns, e peswas ways ss hn imaly creay. Uppinghe qu niy of chs nd i n n us hikeedhe es, bu s ddiins ls made i saly,griy, nd psy. ding mor i o sm uhe m iue oly md he pes grsy.
Sinc his dish wsn' eacly n lian lassic, decided o rrw sandr ingrie usein y mricn as salds myonise. Thecrmy, angy cndien srvd s h erecbindrso ng s i ws use in mderin.Si bespoos ws eough rvid cremy,luscious eure.
epin g te PtTh bs pasa ss r his dish hve eredsurc wih conc nk r wo can rphe pso nd kp i o sidng ih issuby rm, indnd ceer, nd jggd dgs,rlle made n ecellen pnr. nlik h
sJ hich shu generlly coked unill den, h s used in sds sul ckslighy longer, uni nder. r is n judgingwhen shpe psJ is done, s Kichn Noes,pJge 3
When he es s addd srigh jus cooked psa, i k n hu rech romemerur. h h pas s coked" he
a s i , e J ning i s im p c . nsi g heps in l er cd i don quickyu made h surce of he psa o slicko hol n he pes. h slui ws le he ps c in singe yer n
w B P no ha d o make a pes pasa saad ase good To ge he
peaane and exue o live up o he viban flavos we amewih wo easy iks
B R I G H T C O O Reening the basi ith
b sinach hee aintaine ests bight geen c
.C R E A M Y E XT U R E
ing a tch annaisee the tsic es
cea an chesie
rimmed bkin g shee, ssing in splsh il preen sicking.ll my s sld needd ws som n
r wking. emon uic cu hroughh richness, n d n er cu of osepine nus dd ino h pesocoed psadded swe, nuy noe s wel s euraconras. pin of qurred cherry m-oes r hvd grpe ms conriuedcor and sl urss of shness . in ly, had rased igurin ainsay ino mic picic cic
L b .\ l 1 , L 2 0 0 6
P A S T A S A L A D W I T H P E S T O
S E RV E S B TO A S A S I D E D I S H
his sala is bes serve e ay i is aebeen rerigerae, brig i