As a bicycle mechanic I like to experiment with different designs for bicycle

wheels, especially since I got in contact with building custom bikes like:

Chopper, Cruisers and Full Customs.

I have written this instructable to my best knowledge, however no rights can be

drawn from the contents off these pages.

U build and/or use the shown wheel at your own risk.

Be warned, you will during this tutorial alter some parts in such a structural way

like drilling extra holes that all warranties provided by the manufacturers will

be void.

Step 1: Tools & Parts

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About This Instructable

Posted:Jan 1, 2009

License:

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1. Materials used:

rim: Alesa 26inch ( 22x559 ) aluminium

hub: Shimano fronthub HB-MN72

spokes: Union steel plated 14g 262mm

nipples: Union nickel-plated brass 14g

This hub is chosen because of the large flanges, this way there is enough space between the spoke

holes to drill an extra hole between them.

If you want to use a donorwheel look for one with nice large flanges and you can measure the

spokelength to go and buy the 33 extra spokes + nipples you need, the donorwheel must have a

standard 3 cross spokelayout to meet the requirements for making this wheel.

2. Tools used:

Dremel multitool

Drills 2,5mm, 4mm and 8mm

Spoke wrench Park Tool

Hand drill

Clamp

Hammer

Caliper

Marking tool steel

center point

truing stand

a Dremel drillingstand ( not in the picture )

Step 2: Setup the hub

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(/files/deriv/FJU/P3MS/FOWZPVNF/FJUP3MSFOWZPVNF.LARGE.jpg)

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Buying used bikes forbeginners (/id/Buying-used-bikes-for-beginners/)by JacobAziza

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First off we measure the width of the flange from the outside of the spoke hole to the outside of the

flange ( in this case that's 3,25mm )

After that we measure the diameter of the spoke hole ( in this hub that's 2,5mm )

With this information we can calculate that the center of the spoke holes is at: 3,25mm + 1,25mm =

4,5mm

Adjust your caliper to this.

If possible lock your caliper and use the back-end.

Put the bottom of the caliper against the side of the flange and hold your steel marking tool against the

measure pen.

Let someone help you by gently turning the hub with the bottom flange.

The result, a nice parallel marking line.

Now measure the distance between 2 spokes holes.

On this hub that's 13,5mm divide by 2.

With the results of 6,75mm

Adjust your caliper to this and lock.

Mark the halfway between the spoke holes with the calipers top by holding it in the spoke hole and

gently scratch on the parallel marking line.

Now you can center where the drilling holes are going to be.

If your center point is sharp enough you can slide it in a little sideways and you will feel the marking

line.

Now upright the center point and gently hit it with the hammer, dont slam it the first time because if you

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are off the mark you can still correct it by doing it once more.

When you are happy with it slam it once more.

Ready to drill.

Not shown in picture, I used a dremel drilling stand. .

For the best results put a slight angle on the drilling stand to go with the flanges angle (about 5

degrees)

This hub can be clamped on the axle because of the flat sides. If the axle is round use a special axle

clamp to not damage the thread.

Drill the holes using a 2,5mm drill.

Debur the holes by using a machine or hand drill.

Debur the inside of the spoke holes of the flange by using a oversized drill.

Step 3: Prepare the rim

Measure the width of the rim and divide by 2.

In this case the rim width is 28mm divided by 2 = 14mm.

Adjust your caliper to 14mm and lock it.

Gently mark the center of the rim between the nipple holes.

Make small lines so that in the final product they wont show up as much.

Measure the distance between 2 nipple holes and divide by 2, here that's 51mm divided by 2 is

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25,5mm.

Mark the center between the nipple holes.

You can do this with the calipers top.

Use the center point to mark them for drilling.

Drill the holes with a 4mm drill or whatever size your holes are.

Debur the holes with a hand drill or a lager machine drill.

Don't forget the inside of the rim.

Now you are ready to build this wheel.

Step 4: Lacing the wheel 1 ( start inserting the inner spokes into the hub )

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Insert the first 6 spokes from the outside of the flange towards the inside of the hub next to each other,

skip 6 holes put in the next 6 and do this once more.

Turn over the hub and insert 1 spoke from outside in so that it matches the other side exactly.

Insert all spokes mirrored to the opposite flange into the hub group by 6.

Step 5: Lacing the wheel 2 ( start putting the spokes into the rim )

Take up the rim and start next to the valve hole (this is an original nipple hole ) by inserting the first

spoke from one group of 6 spokes.

Screw the nipple on about 3 turns turning clockwise.

For the next hole in the rim (this is a drilled one) take the spoke from the opposite side of the hub,

insert it and put on a nipple.

Take the next spoke from the side you started with and insert this into the next free hole ( you are

working away from the valve hole )

Remember to fasten the nipples no more than 3 turns.

Keep going until the first group of 12 is setup.

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Skip 12 holes in the rim and start over again with the next group of 12 spokes.

Watch out !! Start this group with the same flange-side as you did starting next to the valve hole.

Repeat the last step to do the last 12 spokes.

If everything works out you will get a result similar to the photograph. Use this moment to check if you

didn't make any mistakes, at this time it's easy to correct them.

3 times 12 spokes & 3 times 12 holes free in the rim with one being 11 nipple holes and one valve

hole.

1

Step 6: Lacing the wheel 3 ( determine how the hub twists )

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Now determine what way you should turn the hub to make the most room for the valve.

Image 1 is wrong, image 2 is the the way it should be.

Look at the top of the pictures.

There is the valve-hole.

Step 7: Lacing the wheel 4 ( insert the outer spokes into the hub )

(/files/deriv/F4N/OFDS/FOWZPVMZ/F4NOFDSFOWZPVMZ.LARGE.jpg)

Custom star bikewheel by MasterRed (/member/MasterRed/)

+ Collection Download (/id/Custom-star-bikewheel/?download=pdf) 10 Steps Favorite (/id/Custom-star-bikewheel/)

Now we start with the spokes that are inserted from the inside out.

Take a close look, you want to start with the same side of the hub with the spoke that is closest to the

valve-hole.

Insert one spoke from the inside out into the hub at the exact spot shown in the picture.

This spoke sits next to the group of 6 already placed in the wheel, cross over these 6 spokes and

insert it next to the valve-hole, put a nipple on it turning it about 3 times.

Sometimes it is hard to get the first nipple on, this is because the other nipples from the spokes

already inside the wheel havent fallen far enough into the rim when you turned the hub making space

at the valve-hole. ( the way described on the previous page )

Turn the wheel over and insert all spokes on the side of the hub where you just inserted the previous

spoke.

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I think this is the easier way but you can also insert them one by one if you wish.

Turn the wheel back gently holding the loose spokes and lay them flat on the hub.

Starting at the spoke you already put in there next to the valve-hole you insert the spokes skipping

one nipplehole in the rim at the time.

Do them all.

Turn the wheel over and start on the other side.

Watch out we leave one hole in the hub free and start at the next free hole in the rim away from the

valve-hole.

We do this with the 3 groups we are about to do, so instead of 6 spokes per group we only use 5.

If everything is in order it will look similar to the last photo in this step.

Step 8: Truing the wheel 1 ( fastening the spokes up to first tension )

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Now we start fastening the nipples up to the end of the thread on the spokes, do this as accurate as

possible.

Start and stop at the valvehole.

Accurate work will make a big difference later on at the truing stage.

A screwdriver is easiest for this job.

With the wheel I made the spokes where bulging a bit.

No fear this will be fine.

If there is a lot of space on the nipples you can start fastening them by turning them 1 full turn at the

time, and when tension start mounting half a turn.

Do a full round every time.

Now we get an exceptional situation, on and off one spoke will have tension and the next one will be

very loose, with a normal spoke layout all spokes would have about the same amount of tension.

This is because of the extraordinary spoke layout.

Before we start correcting this we first want to check if the wheel is fairly true.

It is better to correct this before going on.

The way you do this is a little bit further on in this instructable.

When this is done you can start fastening the spokes that are loose.

Only fasten them up to the point where they start building tension.

Step 9: Truing the wheel 2 ( make it straight )

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After this we are start truing the wheel.

First off find the spot where the wheel is centered best.

This is very important due to the lining of your bike, adjust your truingstand-marker to match this spot.

With a good truing stand this is no problem but as many of you readers wont have tools like this you

can use a makeshift stand by using an old front fork and use a tape measure or your caliper to find the

right spot.

There are some good instructables on making your own truingstand.

Start turning the wheel to see where the rim is further away from the marker, like in this picture.

Here we want the rim to be closer to the marker.

Determine how long the offset is (how many spokes)

Remember where the start and finish is.

You now need to fasten those spokes on the side where the rim is too far away from the marker.

Or if the tension is too much you can loosen the spokes on the other side, this is basically some sort of

feel you need to get / learn on what is best.

Pay attention to the turning direction for fastening of the nipple as in the picture ( looking at the nipple

from the rim side ) you need to fasten the nipples counter clockwise.

Always think about the way you would fasten the nipples, this will become second nature when making

more wheels in the future.

Before you can mount your tire you need to check if the spoke-thread is showing on the inside of the

rim, as is the case here.

This thread showing needs to be removed with, for example a Dremel with a grinding stone or with a

grinder.(be careful not to damage the rim or yourself).

Step 10: The endresult

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Post Comment

(/member/rickpaulos/)

Jun 7, 2012. 8:44 AM Reply (CZSELIZH2WET49I)

1

(/member/Biohazard1194/)

Apr 23, 2010. 1:43 PM Reply (CO8C4Z1G8C3UDIE)

This rim was already prepared to make another wheel, because of this there where two extra holes in

it.

These holes I filled with dummy valves, in my opinion this gives a nice look to the wheel, decide for

yourself.

Even with completion this wheel feels very solid I want to remind you that you make/use these wheels

at your own risk.

Have fun building.

1-40 of47

Next » (http://www.instructables.com/id/Custom-star-bikewheel/?&sort=ACTIVE&limit=40&offset=40#DISCUSS)

rickpaulos (/member/rickpaulos/) says:

Here is another advanced wheel project: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nisn6lmi9tQ Rick

Biohazard1194 (/member/Biohazard1194/) says:

Looks awesome. I'll see if I can't get somespare rims and spokes to make this. Justincase I mess up and end up ruining a rimI still have the original.

jcg (/member/jcg/) in reply to Biohazard1194

(/files/deriv/F92/YBO8/FOWZPVMB/F92YBO8FOWZPVMB.LARGE.jpg)

(/member/jcg/)

Jul 16, 2011. 2:39 AM Reply (CQA8PSSGQ5Q44XE)

(/member/enyceckk/)

Apr 13, 2011. 8:58 PM Reply (CBUO7PCGM9QMUYK)

1(/member/PyroBuilder15/)

Feb 15, 2011. 4:34 AM Reply (CZKFT6CGJQEL7HQ)

(/member/unaffiliatedperson/)

Oct 16, 2010. 5:10 PM Reply (CBMWN3KGFA4148V)

(/member/maurice1993/)

Sep 8, 2009. 6:37 PM Reply (CQ8IBB1FZ8J4M34)

2

(/member/MasterRed/)

Sep 9, 2009. 6:11 AM Reply (C8ASCW8FZ8J4QLR)

(/member/maurice1993/)

Sep 9, 2009. 7:19 PM Reply (CEUXW33FZETB1OJ)

(/member/minhocaloka/)

May 30, 2009. 7:14 PM Reply (CE6EEAQFVAF4Z1C)

(/member/Unmortal/)

May 21, 2009. 10:05 AM Reply (CM2J0N1FUI0T68F)

(/member/geppetto425/)

Jan 2, 2009. 11:26 AM Reply (CPYL27RFPBKYSNP)

(/member/mikepenton/)

Jan 8, 2009. 10:15 AM Reply (CNLGX3IFPP87NUL)

Try to find second hand rims, it doesn't matter if they have a wobble in them because yourrespoking (probably not the right word) anyway. So on top of making awesome wheels yourfixing something too. And it's cheaper.

enyceckk (/member/enyceckk/) says:

This wheel has a Mercedes Benz logo on it.

PyroBuilder15 (/member/PyroBuilder15/) says:

I know what I'm doing tonight to my bike.

unaffiliatedperson (/member/unaffiliatedperson/) says:

this would look awesome on the cruiser ifound in the dumpster i found the other day.thanks for posting.

maurice1993 (/member/maurice1993/) says:

hey, I simply can't use the original wheel, un-assemble, make this, and then, re-assemble?

MasterRed (/member/MasterRed/) (author) in reply to maurice1993

Yes you can the spokelength is thesame, so basicly you can justrelocate the spokes in an existingwheel. And if you want to you can goto a bikeshop and buy the extra 33spokes in the same length as theones already in the wheel to make itthe same as in my instructable here.

maurice1993 (/member/maurice1993/) in reply to MasterRed

hmmm sound cool...... for sure I'll dothis in my next bike!(when I buy it...I'm on foot... cryiiiin)

minhocaloka (/member/minhocaloka/) says:

woot man!!!=D

awesome!=D

¬¬ i'll try!!!=P

Unmortal (/member/Unmortal/) says:

i geuss the wheel is very save bechause if ya ride a bike the wheels need to carry you around and notbe like yellie puding and in this instrutabal are very much spokes that go to the center of the hub thosempty space wont be a problem i geuss you can make money with this in the neterlands bechaus weuse bikes almost al day and this is just art!!

geppetto425 (/member/geppetto425/) says:

This would be cool on a Unicycle!!!

mikepenton (/member/mikepenton/) in reply to geppetto425

Definitely - there's going to be anarticle on funky wheel builds in Uni -The Unicycle Magazine soon :)

vanpaun (/member/vanpaun/) in reply to mikepenton

13(/member/vanpaun/)

Feb 1, 2009. 10:59 AM Reply (CSZQLM9FQMXER5W)

(/member/ntappin/)

Apr 7, 2009. 4:30 PM Reply (COO8FLMFT7PLV4M)

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Jan 22, 2009. 2:04 PM Reply (CZXNM6DFQ6E5Q1A)

2

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Jan 1, 2009. 9:33 PM Reply (C17ROVPFP9CTCN9)

2

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Jan 2, 2009. 12:13 AM Reply (CYEPP7YFP8NM1TT)

1

(/member/SerJ/)

Jan 14, 2009. 10:11 AM Reply (C6KIHP6FPWWYQ7K)

2

(/member/MasterRed/)

Jan 15, 2009. 12:44 PM Reply (CK6APJEFPWWQPQB)

I didn't know you guys were on here! sweet!

ntappin (/member/ntappin/) in reply to vanpaun

we are everywhere.

Alecw35 (/member/Alecw35/) says:

It would be neater if it was a plain undimpled rim I've seen factory custom motorcycles with similarwheels

mynameisjonas (/member/mynameisjonas/) says:

very nice! have you been using this wheel?

MasterRed (/member/MasterRed/) (author) in reply to mynameisjonas

Not this is one but something similarI have been using in my hobbychopperbike project HERO. In factthe idea to make this spokelayoutcame to me when I was making thefrontwheel for this bike. And as youcan see this bike has some extraweight to it, but I haven'tencountered any problems with ityet, not even with the 50K cruise Icruised with it last summer.

(/files/deriv/FPY/KUAZ/FP8NM1TQ/FPYKUAZFP8NM1TQ.LARGE.jpg)

SerJ (/member/SerJ/) in reply to MasterRed

hey MasterRed :) the 50K cruisewas a big laugh :) - and neverthought id find your bike onInstructables, but happy i did! itsin my top 5 favourite bikes ever :)anyone wanting to see more picsand vids from the Amsterdamevent , heres the link:-

http://FBIChoppernation2008.blogspot.com/(http://FBIChoppernation2008.blogspot.com/)

See you next summer! :)

MasterRed (/member/MasterRed/) (author) in reply to SerJ

Yeah it sure was, I really likeriding with all these same(crooked;-) minded people.Thanks for my bike being in yourtop 5 ever. Sure thing I'll be there,just thinking what else I am goingto do to my HERO bike before theFBI starts. My next project isgoing to be a slow build ( years Iwould say ) so that won't beready for this years FBI event.

61

(/member/rachel/)

Jan 8, 2009. 11:45 PM Reply (CXAWANIFPP7WPPL)

2

(/member/MasterRed/)

Jan 9, 2009. 11:29 AM Reply (CXO915CFPQLEDEJ)

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Jan 2, 2009. 8:33 AM Reply (CN29DQAFP8NM2VH)

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Jan 2, 2009. 11:58 PM Reply (CWKRNRDFP8NM6X8)

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Jan 11, 2009. 1:42 AM Reply (CYWNHNIFPQLEOHA)

rachel (/member/rachel/) in reply to MasterRed

Whoa! How did you make that? Doyou have more pictures? It's soworth an instructable or, if youhaven't time/energy, a forum topic.

MasterRed (/member/MasterRed/) (author) in reply to rachel

Yep you are right that it would beworth an Instructablebut...but...but...... there you go timeis the one thing I have in shortsupply.Go here to the chopperbicycle.netforum(http://www.chopperbicycle.net/forums/showthread.php?t=3531) to read the (kinda)full storyon how this bike was made.

And overhere on the Freakbike-forum(http://forum1.freakbikenation.com/viewtopic.php?f=17&t=679) is some extra info onthe things I've done to the bike afterI finished it for the BBO ( Biker BuildOff )

Maybe I will start a forumtopic overhere this weekend when I am@home.

mynameisjonas (/member/mynameisjonas/) in reply to MasterRed

very nice!

krode (/member/krode/) says:

Since you have extra valve holes anyway, why not add a deflated tube utilizing one of the extra holes.That way, you have a redundant tube already installed and ready for inflation if you get a flat. I thinkthere's an instructable on that here somewhere...

cornflaker (/member/cornflaker/) in reply to krode

That would be kind of hard to figureout which one to pump up would itthough? lol I guess it wouldn't betoo bad if you tire wasn't too flatthough because you could seewhich one still had pressure in it.

MasterRed (/member/MasterRed/) (author) in reply to krode

Yes that would be nice.Here is the instructable by Chr1s onthat.Bicycle-dual-inner-tube-system(http://www.instructables.com/id/Bicycle-dual-inner-tube-system/)

myuu (/member/myuu/) says:

This is the one I've been doing for a few years now, it's a 36 spoke cross lace or "snowflake".

(/member/Archergal52/)

Jan 8, 2009. 12:07 PM Reply (C5UKB5TFPPG0LMI)

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Archergal52 (/member/Archergal52/) says:

This is one of the most thoroughly documented instructables I've seen. I've never been interested inbuilding wheels, but I think I learned a LOT about it here. Well done!

MasterRed (/member/MasterRed/) (author) in reply to Archergal52

Comments like this make it all worthwhile. Thank you

rhubarb (/member/rhubarb/) says:

This looks like a variation of a 3(or 4) leading, 3(or 4) trailing lacing pattern. You can do a version ofthis with similar effect without drilling out your hub flanges or rims. The photos attached are of a 3leading / 3 trailing wheel I built up around an old Bendix coaster hub. As you may notice, the spokesare interlaced. I'd only recommend doing so with a rather large hub flange, as the spokes are putthrough some sharp angles. The cool thing about this lacing pattern is that it is that uses the samelength spoke used in a standard 3 cross lacing, so you can usually use the same spokes that arealready on a built wheel.

I got the information on this wheel at http://www.terminalvelocity.demon.co.uk/WheelBuild/(http://www.terminalvelocity.demon.co.uk/WheelBuild/)

Check out the site if you're interested in exotic patterns.

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MasterRed (/member/MasterRed/) (author) in reply to rhubarb

You are right, basically this is an 3leading 3 trailing pattern butbecause off the extra holes I madein the hub and rim this wheel is an6 leading 6 trailing pattern. I was

(/member/xerxesx20/)

Jan 8, 2009. 1:39 PM Reply (CNIP23RFPP80HOL)

2(/member/inertia18/)

Jan 5, 2009. 9:59 AM Reply (CLPCGHWFPIOLQU2)

2

(/member/Koil_1/)

Jan 5, 2009. 12:37 AM Reply (C12JAPEFPBKZPS5)

2

(/member/MasterRed/)

Jan 5, 2009. 5:56 AM Reply (CMUFMU3FPKFA4W8)

(/member/theatre_tech_guru/)

Jan 4, 2009. 10:31 AM Reply (CSLDA6YFPBKZB0D)

and still am very surprised howmany people did these sort offlacings before I started makingthem, I've did most off mine withoutknowing they where done alreadybut the more I post them over ondifferent forums and websites themore people I start to know whohave the same passion. Here is onefor ya that I haven't seen anywhereelse: 3 rims / one hub / 108 spokes/ basically an standard 3 crosspattern but then stacked 3 times.p.s. I like your website about yourhobby

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xerxesx20 (/member/xerxesx20/) in reply to MasterRed

As if the standard spoke countdoesn't make for a b*tch to clean,looks pretty good though! :-)

inertia18 (/member/inertia18/) says:

Can i use this on motorcycle rims, if its possible. I like to try it sometime with my front wheel.

Koil_1 (/member/Koil_1/) says:

This is really awesome. However, wouldn't it be easier to just not mark or drill the holes for themissing spokes?

MasterRed (/member/MasterRed/) (author) in reply to Koil_1

Yes and no, Yes you could leave the2 extra holes in the rim out bycounting 12 off the original holesfrom the valve hole when marking therim. And no for the hub because youwould really need to pay very goodattention when starting to layce thewheel where you start so that youend the right way. For estatics Iagree that the extra holes should beomitted in the hub although I like theextra valve's with caps on the rim.

theatre_tech_guru (/member/theatre_tech_guru/) says:

i love it

3

(/member/watermelonhead/)

Jan 4, 2009. 7:51 AM Reply (C1SDY2NFP8NME9V)

(/member/mweston/)

Jan 3, 2009. 11:42 AM Reply (C39CEHUFPIOL6JD)

2(/member/MasterRed/)

Jan 3, 2009. 12:20 PM Reply (C0PPIKAFPIOL6TC)

watermelonhead (/member/watermelonhead/) says:

that's cool. what would be cooler, though, is ifyou added one of those spinny hubcaps, likeon gangsta cars. :]

mweston (/member/mweston/) says:

Wow, this is really interesting. I think I have a few ideas for this - you could make a ton of differentdesigns with the spokes...

MasterRed (/member/MasterRed/) (author) in reply to mweston

Yes you can, here are 2 more photoexamples off wheels with out off theordinary spoke lacing's that I did.The first 2 pictures are from a wheelwith a twist spoke layout.I have made an .pdf tutorial on thiswheel also that I offer for download onmy website as I do with theInstructable here, in time I will put itup as an Instructable also.The third photo is the frontwheel Imentioned in the reply tomynameisjonas's comment.

I've done some radical wheels with 72spokes with 2 rims put into 1 wheeland also 2 rearwheels with 108spokes with 3 rims laced together,but for these wheels I haven't gottutorials............. yet ( but if timepermits me I will do them someday )

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(/member/mweston/)

Jan 3, 2009. 1:52 PM Reply (CWD463QFPBKZ2N7)

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mweston (/member/mweston/) in reply to MasterRed

Great job on those as well, they areall very cool, I might try somethinglike the last picture, It will take someplanning but hopefully I will get to itsoon :-)

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