cwt spring/summer 2013

TravellerW O R L D

TravellerW O R L D

C A N A D I A N

Spring/Summer 2013Spring/Summer 2013

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China Texas India Iceland Egypt New Zealand

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Publisher Michael MorcosEditor-in-chief Greg JamesGraphic Artist Al CheongAdvertising Leo SantiniMarketing Tania TassoneDistribution Royce DillonContributors Eileen Cotter

Steven SandersHabeeb SalloumRuth AtherleyA. M. MacloughlinJames Tyrrell

Front Cover Photo by Michael Morcos:Dalian, China

Disclaimer: Canadian World Traveller has made everyeffort to verify that the information provided in thispublication is as accurate as possible. However, weaccept no responsibility for any loss, injury, or incon-venience sustained by anyone resulting from the infor-mation contained herein nor for any information pro-vided by our advertisers.

Welcome to the Spring/Summer2013 Issue of Canadian WorldTraveller, which is being distrib-

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The magazine is now in the tenth yearof its publication. This issue, as well as allof our previous 38 issues, are archived onour website at

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In this issue we travel to coastal citiesin China in this part one of a two-partarticle. While in Asia we uncover pictur-esque Kashmir, India.

In North America we head toFredericksburg the gem of Texas and thento the legendary Blue Mountain ranges ofVirginia.

In Europe we head to the northAtlantic to visit the stunning Iceland land-scape before going to the world-class cityof Stockholm, Sweden.

We then travel to the two ends ofAfrica. First, we take a cruise on Egypt’sNile and explore its many historic sitesbefore going to South Africa to photo-graph the incredible wildlife.

While south of the equator we travelto Christchurch, New Zealand and alsoexperience the unique Maori culture.Finally, we head to South America andvisit beautiful Argentina.

Happy Travels!

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Canadian World Traveller Spring/Summer 2013

C o n t e n t s

India

Kashmir’s rugged beauty and inviting simplicity

By Michael Morcos

16

ChinaCelebrating China’s Marine Tourism Year: Part One

By Michael Morcos

8

TexasFredericksburg: A sophisticated, slow-paced gem

By Eileen Cotter

12

30

32

34

38

42

4426

22Iceland

In the Land of the Vikings

By Anne-Marie Macloughlin

Egypt

CRUISING THROUGH THE LAND OF THE PHARAOHS

By Habeeb Salloum

New Zealand

Experience Christchurch of today

By Ruth Atherley

New ZealandTop 5 Ways to Discover Maori Culture in New Zealand

By Ruth Atherley

sweden

Stockholm and Beyond – A Smorgasbord of Sights


South Africa

Top 5 Photo Safari Photo Tips

By James Tyrrell

Argentina

Buenos Aires and The South

By Steven Sanders

Virginia’s

Blue Ridge Mountains

By Eileen Cotter

8

China

Celebrating China’s Marine Tourism Year: Part

By Michael Morcos

The sheer girth of China’s endlessnatural landscapes and larger-than-life cities can be overwhelming to theaverage traveler. However, the upside isthat China’s expansive offerings present achance to take in countless aspects of sucha rich and colorful destination. I journeyedfrom province to province, stopping alongthe way to savor cuisine, be amused andget wrapped up in China’s natural beautyaround every corner.

Bejing’s size and stature

It’s easy to spend a whole trip just in thiscity. Full of exotic sights and sounds, thenever-sleeping urban sprawl is always illu-minated by flashy advertisements juxta-posed by grand traditional temples andbuildings. You can get lost in all thegrandeur and swept away by the mesmer-izing culture. To fully immerse in Beijing’svibrant atmosphere, it’s important tospend time in both the Forbidden Cityarea that’s historically prominent, as wellas weaving through the more modern dis-trict with towering skyscrapers.

Liaoning Province

Tucked in a northeastern corner of Chinalies the Liaoning Province, known best forits natural landscapes and breathtakingcoastline. The weather is often pleasantbut constantly changes, including shortspring and fall seasons and a warm, longsummer. I was happy to spend timeexploring a few of the regions along thecoast and the mountainous inland areastoo.

Golden Pebble Beach

Beauty is on another level at the GoldenPebble Beach national Resort, full of thingsto see and do year-round. I took in thespectacular environment of the LiaodongPeninsula with pretty waterfront views. Thearea is only a few kilometers outside ofDalian, making it ideal for a day trip orweekend away from the city. Not only isthe natural wonders of Gold Pebble worththe visit, but there is also a few museums,places to try sporting activities, bath hous-es and gardens, to name a few.

Like a kid again at Ocean

Amusement Park

Inside Xinghai Park is a cute space just forlittle ones on their families. Known asOcean Park, this attractions featuresaccommodations and live shows, among

59

t One


See China on page 10

charming spot to enjoy when the weatheris pleasant to admire the surroundingarchitecture and a pretty city landscape.

Scenic views from the

Dalian Port

Although slightly industrial, the excitementis almost palpable at the Pot of Dalian.Popular among commercial sailors andcruise ships, it serves a purpose of direct-ing nautical traffic with style. Near themain port area are several tasty restau-rants and a aesthetically pleasing round-a-bout with white statues seemingly direct-ing cars passing by.

Journeying to the

Shandong Province

From the port I made my way south ofLaioning to the Shandong Province, wherelife along the ocean is also respected andcelebrated. Confucius was born in thisregion about two hours from the capitalcity of Jinan and there are mountainpeaks well-loved by climbers across theplanet. There is a long winter, but thiscoasts offers and excellent alternative for abeach holiday, as it rarely gets uncomfort-ably hot and stays as an active touringcenter throughout the year.

A grand Olympic Sailing

Centre

In 2008 the Olympics were a thrillingspectacle that provinces throughout thecountry participated in according to theirgeography. Due to the wide bay inQingdao, many sailing events took placehere and many still enjoy keeping theirboats on the docks. Tourists walk theboards to peer at the sailing ships, andsome will take a chartered trip in the bayby a local, professional captain.

Strolling through Little

Fish Hill Park

To gaze at some of the loveliest views ofHuiquan Bay, head up the hill and berewarded with an overview of the sea andland below. Little Fish Hill’s Park ideallocation blends together perfectly mani-

10 China

Continued from page 9

other areas of fun. It is home to somemarine life as well, such as seals and tur-tles, travellers can see during performanc-es alongside expert handlers. A nice strollwas appreciated through this spot thatmight not boast a deep history, but pro-vides a great break from the bustle oftouring.

Indulging in top Chinese

cuisine

I never went hungry the entire time I wasin China, as there is fantastic culinarydelights to indulge everywhere, from highend restaurants to small shacks along thestreets. While meals varies greatly fromcountry to country, most staple ingredientsinclude dried vegetables, fish, rice andplenty of flavorings. A memorable way tosample several contrasting tastes is tohave a dim sum lunch or dinner. These lit-tle pockets of light, fluffy dough are filledwith combinations of vegetables, beef,chicken and more, molded into small bite-sized pieces.

Enjoying the Lushun

Museum

Never was there a dull moment inside theLushun Museum, home to more than30,000 relics from Chinese history. It canbe a thrill to be so close to artifacts thathave withstood the test of time and dateback a few millennia. An impressiveexhibit is the mummies found in WesternChina. More than 1,300 years old, thepeople’s hair and features can be seenfrom perfect preservation conditions. Tomark the entrance to the building is amassive 22-meter tower guarding thefront door.

Time spent in Zhongshan

Square

This area allows travellers to see old andnew sides of Dailan side-by-side. Createdin 1899 by Russians, the ZhongshanSquare is a central spot for main traffic aswell as pedestrians. One of its unique fea-tures is the speaker systems set up aroundits perimeter, making the spot one of thefirst of its kind in the country. It is a


the lens. The mix of German and Chinesestyle is also seen here like at the gover-nor’s house and brewery.

My time in the northeast provinces ofLiaoning and Shandong was delightfullypleasant and an interesting look intoChina’s diverse culture – as these regionsare much different than others in theSouth or West. I wish I had more days totruly immerse into the seaside lifestyle, butI was happy to have a taste of the sunnyatmosphere and welcoming people ofChina.

cured vegetation and ocean waves.Pavilions provide shade, which can bereached by walking along the trails linedwith blooming flowers. Children were seenthroughout the park expending their ener-gy and getting close with their natural sur-roundings.

Tasty eats at the Huiquan

Dynasty Hotel

The views from this stylish establishmentare memorable, as is the delectable andtraditional cuisine. I dined on some delica-cies such as minced pork with braisedcucumber. The highlight was shark finsoup, with just enough spice to be bold,yet satisfying. The crowd here was eclecticand welcoming, offering an exotic feelthat was also relaxing to myself and fellowtravellers. Many choose to stay after din-ner and sip on a cocktail for a relaxing,tranquil evening.

Impressive Qingdao Site

Museum

So much of this amazing museum is not tobe missed, especially for those who lovethe past and Chinese history. It almostlooks a little out of place, due to it beingthe residence of a former German gover-nor. But the interior is what gives away itsAsian influence, as much of the décorblends together both European andChinese design. Everything has been care-fully preserved so visitors feel as if they arein the presence of historical greatness.Qingdao also has other honorable muse-ums that are a nod to things like music,art and science. Travellers can spend awhole holiday enjoying the historic offer-ing of this region.


11

China Tourism Introduces New Brand Logo

China National Tourism Administration (CNTA) has made “BeautifulChina” the tag line of its tourism and introduced a new global brandlogo. With an overall look as a stamp, the new logo integrates mod-ern messaging with the ancient Chinese art form of calligraphy. Thehieroglyph in the background means “travel” in ancient Chinese lan-guage, which shows a flag guiding a couple around. The blue colorrepresents the sky, delivering China tourism’s concepts - vitality, har-mony and green travel. The red color gives tribute to the Chinese civ-ilization that has been going on for thousands of years. Illustrating aninternational vision, the “Beautiful China” logo represents China’spromising and welcoming tourism industry.

An interesting visit to

the Qingdao Beer Museum

All of these fascinating tours and muse-ums where making me very thirsty. Luckily,libations were not too far away and I wasable to visit the famous Qingdao brewery.Known in North America and Tsingtao,this delicious beer is sold all over theworld as one of the country’s premierebrews. It has been around for more thana century and has expanded to more than50 factories nationwide. German influencecan be found here as well, due to much ofthe factory’s architecture and décor beingdonated by the country for the beer’sanniversary. This is the perfect place tolearn about the past manufacturing tech-niques and even take part in a workshopor tasting tour.

Dinner at Pichai Yuan

The Chinese truly respect their mealtimesand it shows within their take on freshingredients and stylish presentation.Nestled in old Qingdao is Firewood Court,lined with vendors serving up unforget-table treats and savory snacks. I grabbedsome grilled seafood and wanderedaround the cherry side streets and weavedthrough the crowds. During busy season,guests can often hear live opera perform-ances while they eat. Snacks are perfectlywashed down with a local Qingdao beertoo, of course. Or, some hot tea madewith special blends in a long-beakedwater kettle is always the traditional andtasty choice. Although there is a crowdaround some of the vendors, it might onlybe for the photo opt- for instance, thefamily selling fried beetles, scorpions androaches is worth taking a peek at through

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1212

Texas

Fredericksburg: A sophisticated, slow-paced, gem in the

By Eileen Cotter

For a first-timer in the state of Texas,I was ready to take on hordes ofcowboy hats, southern drawls and a lot ofbarbeque. Sure, those things are there,but the vibrant, progressive and historical-ly fascinating town of Fredericksburgoffered much more than what was seenon the surface. I was greeted my smilesaround every corner and was highlyimpressed by the creativity, motivation anddrive found behind the minds of businessowners in town. It made for a stimulatingtrip an hour outside of San Antonio thatincluded one-of-a-kind shopping, winetastings, live music, historical landmarksand much more.

Lady Bird’s legacy

One of the things I instantly noticed driv-ing along the Texas highways were thebeautiful blooms. Blue bonnets and pop-pies line roadways, blanketing every inchwith spectacular reds and purples. Thiscolorful landscapes is most due to theefforts of Lady Bird Johnson, who set outto beautify her state and the rest of thecountry in the 60s and 70s.

A unique German heritage

For a town right in the middle of Texas HillCountry, there seemed to be a lot ofEuropean-style architecture and Germanrestaurants. I discovered that the first set-tlers in the area were in indeed formGermany and brought along their tradi-tions, language and lifestyle to theAmericas. The imprint of these early resi-dents is best seen in the center of town atthe iconic Marktplatz, which surrounds theVereins Kirche that served as the town’sfirst schoolhouse and church. Nowadaysthe gardens are a focal point for eventsand gatherings throughout the year.

Transported to the 1940s

Staying at fresh, innovative accommoda-tions is often the highlight of my adven-tures. Why settle for some chain wherethere is amazing hotels to experience? InFredericksburg, The Hangar Hotel is theplace to be for a unique getaway, as wellas cocktail hour, a classic diner meal andeven a little sightseeing. Owners Richardand Rosemary Estenson have transportedtheir property back to the swinging 40s,where pin-up girl posters and the Rat Packreigned supreme. The hotel is locatedright on the tarmac of the local airport, soguests can view planes arriving anddeparting from their stylish observation


13

heart of Texas

See Texas on page 14

lar in Fredericksburg. There is also ahealthy amount of micro breweries andstate beers to sample. At theFredericksburg Brewing Company theycreate several types on site, including arefreshing pale ale that goes perfectly witha plate of friend pickles. They also have atasting board so if patrons are not surewhich they may like, they can sip eachvariety then choose their new favorite.

Honoring the heroes of

World War II

The last thing I thought I’d find in a smallTexas town is a state-of-the-art museum,but there is an incredible attraction calledThe National Museum of the Pacific War,which recently underwent massive renova-tions to rival any museum in WashingtonD.C., New York and beyond. The exhibitsoffer an unbiased look into the tragedyand heroism of soldiers during World WarII. I was humbled by the first-person audiostories recorded by soldiers guests canhear as they walk through the massivespace. Other notable exhibits are the PearlHarbor room, airplane displays and vin-tage bomber jackets.

Live music at the

Luckenbach

Texans have melodies flowing throughtheir veins, many of which that honor thesimple soul and flavor of the area. I wasable to witness this first-hand with anevening spent at the famous Luckenbach –a bar, dancehall and shop frequented bygreat like Willie Nelson. Country musicfans will know the classic song thatdescribes the scene at this no-fills, cozyvenue a few miles outside of town. Whenthe weather is favorable, they open thebig dance hall filled with white Christmaslights for live music and plenty of footstomping.

A fine array of Texas cui-

sine

Eating is often the start of the show when Ijourney to new places, and Fredericksburgwas no exception. Many restaurants haveheavily Tex-Mex influences, such as theBejas Grill that served up brightly coloredmargaritas and great tacos. Hildas alsohas burritos and specialize in heartybreakfast egg wraps. For a more elegantaffair, August E’s

Unforgettable and tasty

Texas wine tastings

Not only is the wine and cuisine wonderfulin town, it is even better when brought


14 Texas


deck. Although the Hangar is designed tobring people back in time, it is also fullystocked with all the latest services andamenities.

An impromptu art-walk

downtown

Many city folks have migrated to HillCountry and flexed their creative muscles.Each gallery in town (there are many)offers a unique take on the fine arts,whether they specialize in contemporary,classic, Western or anything in the middle.

The Whistle Pik Gallery is a great place tostart for those who are fans of bronzecowboys by G. Harvey and sprawlingTexas landscapes. The Good Companyhas a great reputation for featuring localtalent and interesting pieces that conveyjoy and complex emotions. InsightGalleries also presents local creations, butbrings in a more international flair, includ-ing several Canadian artists. The Artisansat Rocky Hill were eager to show off theirimpressive arsenal of local art, includingscarves, mini installations, furniture andmetallic paintings. This is the ideal sportto pick up a piece to take home that illus-trated the beautiful Texas hills covered inwildflowers.

Wine-time in Hill Country

Due to 95 percent of Texas wine beingdrunk in the state, most outsiders do notknow about the vibrant libation scenetucked in the middle of the state. Thereare dozens of wineries to choose from,offering deluxe blends and one-of-a-kindvarietals to please all palettes. Most winer-ies are right in Fredericksburg, with plentyothers only a few miles outside of town.

On my journey, I had a wonderful time atthe laid-back Grape Creek Vineyards,who boast tons of awards for their deli-cious and rich wines. They have a bigroom on the property full of oak barrelsas well so some guests can taste theirnewest concoctions before it is even bot-tled. The Pedernales company has agreat, crisp Rose and has been dabblingin “wine kegs” so customers can visitstores and bottle it themselves. The laststop was Four Point Cellars, which is acollaborative effort to offer some tasty,affordable reds and whites to everyone –well, at least everyone in Texas, so bring-ing home a bottle or three is a must.

Visiting a popular Texas

brewery

Wine is not the only adult beverage popu-

together for a memorable meal.Woodrose Winery, established in 2005,treated me to a four-course luncheon,pairing fruity whites with shrimp alfredoand bold reds with a rich beef marsala.

Fredericksburg’s hopping

shopping scene

It is almost a little too easy to burn a holein your pocket downtown. The shops areplentiful and all has quite the collection offantastic memorabilia, antiques and jewel-ry, to name a few. The downtown area isfairly condensed, so visitors can spend theafternoon poking in and out of stores tofind the perfect souvenir or addition totheir home décor. When taking a break,the Chocolat store is the ideal pit stop forthose who have a sweet tooth. Therenamesake are a variety of chocolatesfilled with different kinds of liquor, includ-ing several Texas wines. They have to beeaten in one bite or it can get very messy.I took a peek inside their factory area aswell to see the treats being made in realtime.

Stepping back in time to

the 1960s

While I was introduced to the impact theJohnsons made on Texas when I arrived, Igained an even deeper appreciation fortheir influence by visiting the Lyndon B.Johnson State Park and Historic Site. The“Texas White House”, where the Johnsonsspent a good bit of time during his presi-dency and beyond, have been perfectlypreserved with all its original furniture.Everything from the blue chairs embla-zoned with the presidential emblem to thedining room plate set once belonged tothe power couple and their family. Also onthe property are hundreds of acres forcattle, a visitor center and museum, plusthe cemetery plot where the Johnsonshave been laid to rest.

Even further to the early

20th century

Before leaving the state park, visitorsshould wander through the Sauer-Beckmann Living History Farmstead, alsoon the property. This allows people to see

what kind of environment former presi-dent Johnson would have been born into– a charming farm in the early 1900s. Fullof petable livestock, cooking demonstra-tions and houses decked out in period fur-nishings.

A fresh, locally sourced

dinner

Dining in Fredericksburg was delightfulthe whole week, but the grand finale ofTexas culinary delights was savored at TheHerb Farm. The owners of the HangarHotel also run this complex, complete withfine dining restaurant, garden, gift shopwith herb-infused beauty products and aluxurious spa. On the menu is fresh gamelike venison and quail, complemented byroasted veggies and accoutrements.

Visiting the bustling cities of Texas is amust, but so is experiencing the slowerpaced feel of places like Fredericksburg,which still offer many options for culture,art and indulgence. It is the best of bothworlds and was the perfect introductionfor future Texas adventures.


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16

India Kashmir’s rugged beauty and inviting simplicity

By Michael Morcos

When Kashmir is mentioned toIndians, many think fondly on thesummers spent in this wild andgreen region. Recently it has been draw-ing international visitors as well, for thecrystal clear lakes, wildlife, delicious foodand unique cultural offerings. There is aswirl of predispositions surrounding theMuslim-centered destination, but over thelast few years, it’s been revived and wel-coming new tourists to enjoy its rustic andunforgettable landscapes of mountainsand endless skies.

A glide through Srinagar

Although Kashmir is far from any ocean,there are still plenty of nautical activities topartake in. This allows travelers to soak upsome sunshine while enjoying the scenicwaterways throughout the area. I lovedthe boat ride through Srinagar, which isone of the most beautiful cities in theregion of Kashmir Valley. Winding alongthe lake through local house boats andother vessels, we were rewarded withbreathtaking views at every turn. Most ofthese boats are traditional and very cozy,perfect for a lazy day out of the water.Many people opt to stay in these house-boats temporarily too on their holidays,which makes for an adventurous accom-modation experience. However, most havethe same services and amenities thathotels do, just floating on the water is theonly difference.

The wildlife of Kashmir

To highlight the incredible diversity ofKashmir, there are several wildlife sanctu-aries to visit. The one I went to had somelarge beasts, like bears and leopards,roaming protected throughout the com-plex. There are several to choose fromwhen in the area, many of which arelocated near the major cities and beexplored in a day or two. The most popu-lar are where big animals can be easilyseen, such as the Jasrota WildlifeSanctuary, which is home to many speciesof deer with massive antlers, like the axis.At the Gulmarg Biosphere Reserve, blackand brown bears can be viewed whilecooling off in the waterways or feeding. Iflucky, travelers who trek through theDachigam National Park, a short distanceoutside of Srinagar, can see some leop-ards in the wild. Due to ever changingweather conditions, it’s advisable to packrain jackets and warm boots, dependingon the time of year.


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See India on page 18

ened to taste. Many say the tradition oftea time stems from old British occupation,but Indians have made the tradition theirown by using local blends and custom,homemade biscuits and treats to go withit.

Admiring the Mughal

Gardens

One of the most treasured spots inKashmir is their UNESCO World HeritageSite called the Mughal Gardens. Thesecan be found nationwide, but Kashmir hasa few that rival any others, like the gar-dens found at the Taj Mahal. The land-scaped landmarks are modeled afterIslamic influence, which nod towardPersian design. They have been aroundfor centuries and have many features suchas natural waterways, fountains andindigenous greenery. I could have spentall afternoon strolling the lush ground,enjoyed by locals and visitors alike.

A journey to Aharbal

Not lacking in natural wonders, Kashmiralso has some interesting waterfalls. Thebest can be explored in the western partof the region, called the Aharbal Falls.Cascading between large granite boul-ders, the water gushed down every dayand leaves a noisy environment in itswake. But the view is lovely from thefenced-in terraces near the top of the falls.There are some striking opportunities forhiking in this are along the stream as wellfor robust outdoors people who like achallenge and heading off the beatenpath.

The friendly residents

The Kashmiri people are very warm andwelcoming. Children would often come tosay hello while I sipped tea in the after-noons, waving hello and laughing togeth-er in packs. They often roam while wear-ing their standard white school uniforms.Women were eager to show off their craftsand the men their livestock or modes oftransportation. Plenty of religious individu-als also call Kashmir home – especiallymonks. I spotted a few of these devotes


Swirling culture and

crafts

Like in many cultures, the Kashmiri peoplelove to celebrate through the art of dance.I was honored to witness a traditionalpresentation offered by some residentwomen, dressed in colorful garb of blues,pinks and browns. There are differentmoves for every occasion, whether peopleare attending a wedding, worshippingtheir faith or getting ready for harvestingseason.

Besides dancing, many locals partake inintricate crafting sessions to show off theirskills. The highly detailed and eye-catch-ing carpets villagers weave is a sight tobehold, and I watched these amazingitems come to life as each row waspainstakingly woven. Most carpets aremade from wool, but some also includesilken fibers for added luxury.

Modern activities and

amenities in Kashmir

While I love seeing how people live theirdaily lives in new destinations, I also don’tmind enjoying a little time for some leisureactivities I take part in at home. So I wasthrilled when we were able to journey to abeautiful golf course in Kashmir, offeringsome of the best links in the entire country.The course was actually designed byAmerican golfer Robert Trent Jones Jr. andhas been increasing in popularity eversince its inception in 2001. Like manyspots throughout Kashmir, players havethe chance to admire beautiful views fromevery hole. It boasts all the latest ameni-ties as well, including motorized carts anda well-kept green.

Evening tea at the Nagin

Club

With all the hustle and bustle going onduring the day, it was a welcomed breakto relax at Kashmir’s many tea rooms.Some, like the one located at the Gurkhahouseboats, can be enjoyed right on thelake. Most blends are original to Kashmirand include wonderful, exotic spices. Cupcan be sipped standing alone or sweet-

18 India


men praying or meditating in unbelievablenatural environments. I can see why somefeel so spiritually connected in such daz-zling surroundings.

Martand and Pahalgam

Ancient civilizations called Kashmir homedating back hundreds of years. Theremains of their livelihood and achieve-ments can be visited in Martand, wherethe Sun Temple is located. Constructedaround 500 AD, columns and rooms stillstand today and pay homage to the Hindugods they were once created for. I went upclose to examine the ruins, then hiked upa small incline to take in the entire com-plex at once, which is an impressive sight.

Back in the day, people traveled to thetown of Pahalgam to beat the heat in thevalleys over the summer, because its high-

er elevation offered cooler temperatures.Nowadays it’s enjoyed year-round andserves as a mecca for outdoor adventure-seekers, looking to trek through mountain-ous peaks or try some heart-pumpingwhite water rafting. Horseback riding isanother great activity to try, with plenty ofphoto opportunities along the way.

Spending time in Gulmarg

Each mountain town truly had their ownspirit, especially Gulmarg. They are moreof a ski-town, offering spectacular slopeswith tons of white, powdery snow. Most iscompletely natural, allowing for perfectconditions throughout the season. Bothskier and snowboard riders are welcometo free-style down the mountains by takinggondolas up to the summit. What’s uniqueis that Gulmarg boast the world’s longest

19

See India on page 20


India


20 ski lift, so prepare for a blast of cold whenreaching the top. The area is also charm-ing to see in the summer, as mountainsnow slopes turn into meadows. Many ofthe lifts continue to run year-round soguests can always admire the views. Nomatter what time of year traveler’s visit,they should keep their eyes open alongthe road to Gulmarg, which has just asnice scenery as the town itself. I marveledat all the flowers massive valleys wepassed leading to the town.

A peek at the Pakistan

border

I could not get enough of the dramaticviews around every corner in Kashmir. Thebeauty came to a climax as I took a gon-dola ride up one of the ski hills that hadbloomed in the spring. This is an easy wayto get a new perspective on the regionwithout too much strenuous climbing.Besides the sprawling vistas of valleys andpeaks, I could clearly see the nearbyPakistani border, complete with bordercontrol to discourage illegal crossings.Despite the stigma, this area is very safeand closely monitored, especially in thelarger cities and villages. Tourists who stayin groups or with guides are well takencare of during their stay.

Getting round Kashmir

While I may have cheated and took mostlyfour-wheeled vehicles, many local peoplethroughout Kashmir will travel on theroads by horseback. It is still one of themost common modes of transportation inthe area, especially because of the moun-tainous landscapes that can prove difficultfor modern transportation. Men, womenand children would hop on their horsesand navigate the sometimes treacherousroadways with ease. I loved watching thepride people took in their animals andmake sure their families were protectedfrom the cars that wooshed by infrequent-ly.

Soaking up exotic Indian

landscapes

By far the best part of the entire trip wassimply admiring the unforgettable land-scapes around every turn. Whether I wastraveling by car, boat, gondola or by foot,I was rarely disappointed by the naturalbeauty this part of India offers. The snow-capped mountains framed by lush, greenvalleys set an impressive scene againstbright blue skies. Nature is not taken forgranted in this part of the world and I amgrateful I had the chance to see it all firsthand.

22

Iceland

In the Land of the Vikings



Waterfalls, Wilderness –

and Eyjafjallajokul

With a less than tropical climate and theeruption of Eyjafjallajokul in 2010,Iceland is not your typical destination.Still, there is something about it that isappealing in a Lord of the Rings way.Icelandair flights to many European citiesmake regular stop-overs in Reykjavik, myrecent trip to Sweden providing the perfectopportunity to schedule a whirlwind detourto this mysterious island.

Climate

Average temperatures in Iceland rarely dipbelow freezing in winter, reaching 13- 15degrees Celsius in summer . Most of thepopulation is centred around Reykjavik,with spectacular scenery close by.The bestway to see Iceland is by jeep. VolcanoTours (volcanotours.is), one of the manyestablished tour companies on the island,specializes in not only volcanoes, butsome of the most breath-taking sceneryin the world.

The Viking Horse

At 8am, the jeep arrived, driven by Hlynur,our cheerful English-speaking guide.Shortly after departing the city, we sawtourists enjoying a horse-riding excursion.The Icelandic Horse is the purest in theworld, and no other breed exists on theisland. They are often referred to asponies, due to their diminuitive size - andthe lack of an Icelandic word meaning‘pony’).

Legends and the Falls

Pointing out a distant peak, Hlynurinformed us this was Eyjafjallajokul ,pronounced aya-fa- yatta-yo-koot-l .Helpfully abbreviated by the media toE15, there have been no significant erup-tions since 2010.

Iceland is also famous for its waterfalls .As a contrast to the drama of a belchingvolcano, we stopped at the 40 metre highSeljalandsfoss waterfall, near E15. Behindthe falls lies a path; legend has it that thisis a popular spot for a lady to proposemarriage. If her paramour declines, thenit’s a wet goodbye. Hlynur could havebeen joking, but it made for a good story.

Skogafoss Falls is a good 20 metres high-er than Seljalandsfoss, with a 400-stephike to the top (Note: bring comfy shoes).From the summit I glimpsedReynisdrangar , the black sand beach,and our next destination. Three tall stacksof basalt rock rise out of the sea; legend

has it, they are the remnants ofthree trolls that tried to drag a shipashore, then turned to stone as thesun came up. Observing the roiling surf,it was easy to see how such legends tookflight.

The Gullfoss waterfall is actually two sep-arate waterfalls originating from the HvitaRiver, visible only by standing right at theedge of its banks, and one of the famousstops on the Golden Circle, along with theoriginal geysirs and the rift valley ofÞingvellir.

Heading into Þingvellir National Park, wesaw scrubby vegetation and a landscapemore suited to an alien planet. This was‘No-man’s Land’, where the tectonicplates shifted, separating North Americaand Eurasia. Iceland’s first national park,it remains an important part of the coun-try’s heritage.

Letting off Steam

Next stop - the geysirs (to use the tradi-tional spelling). From the Norse wordgeysa, meaning to gush or rush forth, theGreat Geysir, which others were namedafter, has been dormant for decades. Littlebrother Strokkur, however, belches steamand boiling water approximately every fiveminutes, up to 100 feet in the air. Thegeyser park is fun to walk through, withits bubbling streams and multi-colouredmineral –rich paths. Remember – this ISboiling water we’re talking about, so nopaddling.

A Furry Farewell

Heading back to Reykjavik, I mentionedthat I’d wanted to see the horses, butwasn’t able to fit it into this trip. Spotting anearby paddock, our wonderful guidepulled over, where several of these beau-ties trotted up to the fence, happy to seeus. As an unusually friendly one nuzzledmy shoulder, I made a promise to myselfand my equine friends: to return to thismagical place and ride off into the wilder-ness – Lord of the Rings style.

23

26

EgyptCRUISING THROUGH THE LAND OF THE PHARAOHS

By Habeeb Salloum

EgyptCRUISING THROUGH THE LAND OF THE PHARAOHS

The River Nile has been thelifeblood of Egypt, flowing majesti-cally through it's desert landscapeand sustaining the people for a couple ofmillenia. Having the opportunity to glidedown the waterway is an unforgettableexperience, as it gives a sense of powerand connection to the country's mainsource of basic needs. Surrounded bythick flora and miles of desert beyond, theenvironment is a unique look into ancientpast and a thriving culture today.

Luxor and the scenic Nile

For two days we had toured the ancientEgyptian ruins at Luxor - both in the 'Cityof the Living' and the 'City of the Dead'.Amid the fascinating remains of a peoplewho had laid the basis for future civiliza-tions, I admired the pharaonic contribu-tions to humankind. These breathtakingmonuments were still on our minds as werelaxed atop our cruise ship, OberoiShehrayar, on our way to Aswan.

All around me, the white sails of theEgyptian feluccas, dotting the tranquilNile, appeared to be huge proud swansas they criss-crossed the river, seeminglybidding us adieu. Beyond were dozens ofcruise ships docked or, like us, beginningon their journey to Aswan.

Wandering on the top deck of theShehrayar, our home for the next fourdays, I watched the late afternoon sunshimmer on the surface of the blue watersas we made our way up river. Keeping uscompany were a few of the 200 cruiseships which navigate the Nile. However,soon cruise ships and feluccas were for-gotten as we watched the colours of thesunset turn the Nile into a panorama ofhues. By the time it was dark, we hadpassed through a lock in a dam acrossthe Nile and were anchored in Esna,about 64 kilometres south of Luxor.

Esna and its Khnun Temple

Meals on the ship were delightful andenjoyed even more with new companionsat the table. Like many cruises along theNile and all over the world, communaldining allows passengers to indulge informing new travel relationships whilebonding over exotic culinary experiences.

The next morning, guides led the groupsof tourists from at least a half dozen ships,streaming down the dusty streets of Esna,crowded with merchants trying to entice uswith their wares. The visitors making their


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See Egypt on page 28

temple and was responsible for its preser-vation was removed in 1860, by AugusteMariette, the great pioneer archaeologistwho was the founder of the EgyptianMuseum of Antiquities.

Exploring Horus Temple

A huge temple only exceeded in size byKarnak Temple in Luxor, it is built in purePtolemaic style and dedicated to the fal-con-headed god, Horus, the most famousdeity in Upper Egypt. Built between 237and 57 B.C., it is covered with mythologi-cal and religious decorations as well ashieroglyphic texts.

The facade of the Temple rises up in all itsmajesty with two splendid pylons. Inside, Istopped awhile in the courtyard lined onthree sides with impressive columns - theircapitals each different from the other.Moving further within, we passed throughhypostyle halls and offering chambers, afew retaining some of their originalcolours. At the inner sacrarium which oncehoused the image of the god, Horus, Itook a break to rest. The throngs oftourists covering every inch of spaceseemed to bring the massive temple backto life - almost to the time it reverberatedwith the prayers of priests.

Cruising through New Nubia

Back on the ship, I sunned myself arounda swimming pool as the vessel purred for-ward in the middle of a thin line of green.Soon I were passing through 'New Nubia'where 100 thousand Nubians were re-set-tled after the building of the 'High Dam'near Aswan. Being hard workers, theyturned the desert into a sea of sugar cane,dotted with fruit and vegetable fields.Amid this greenery, they built their vil-lages, carrying the names of those theyhad abandoned to the Dam's risingwaters.

At the afternoon tea, the discussion of ourgroup turned to the morals and dignity ofthe Egyptians. Some mentioned how theEgyptians were honest and how safe itwas to live in the country in spite of some


Egypt


28 way to the Esna Temple seemed to satu-rate this agricultural town.

The Temple's grandeur

Dedicated to Khnun, the ram-headed godwho modelled people on his potter'swheel, the Temple is a Ptolemaic buildingwith pharaonic, Greek, Roman and Copticelements. It took 400 years to build, butits major section was erected in the 2ndcentury B.C.

At one time, the Temple, completely cov-ered with inscriptions, was almost totallyconcealed with debris and sand. This keptthe hypostyle hall with its forest of 24columns, each a dozen metres high,topped by capitals of flowers and plants inalmost perfect condition.

Although fascinating, I was glad when wewere again on our ship sailing throughthe upper Nile - edged by lush ribbons ofvegetation between bare desert hills. Inplaces, the green strips on both sides ofthe Nile were so thin that one could hardlybelieve that over 82 million Egyptianscould make their living along its banks.

Cruising the Nile

As our cruise ship sailed up the broadloops of the Nile, winding its way throughthe desert, we passed village after villagewhose homes were built from mud-brick.All around them, the intense green of thepalms and sugar fields made for a serenecountryside. The romantic Nile and itsedging emerald fields continued until wereached Edfu, north of Aswan.

Visiting Edfu

This idyllic aura of the villages changedfor me the next day as we rode a horse-drawn carriage through the dusty streetsof Edfu. It was hot and a little rougharound the edges, but it was interestingseeing these small communities up close.

From the carriage, we walked with thou-sands of other tourists to the best pre-served of Egypt's many temples whichwere built to honour some 750 gods. Thesand that for centuries had covered the

of the unwarranted stigmas.

Kom Ombo and its Ptolemaic

Temple

That evening we docked beside thePtolemaic Temple of Kom Ombo, dedicat-ed to Sobek, the crocodile god of fertility,and Haroeris, the Good Doctor.

Next morning, we toured this temple ofthe two gods with twin entrances, built afew centuries before the Romans occupiedEgypt. The temple also served as a hospi-tal - a whole series of medical instrumentsare sculptured in reliefs on the templewalls. In the Chapel of Hathor, guests cansee three worshipped crocodiles that havebeen mummified.

From Kom Ombo, the green strips of landalong the river banks gradually narroweduntil the barren hills reached the water-side. As we watched the greenery fadeaway, my thoughts turned to the works ofthe pharaohs and how they were drawingthe tourists in the millions. Of course, giv-ing them a hand in revitalizing the oncerich lands of ancient Egypt, are the mightyNile and the relaxing cruise ships.

Aswan and its spectacular

setting

At noon we were docked in Aswan, rough-ly 900 kilometres south of Cairo. Herewhere the Nile is at the epitome of itscharm we planned to relax for a few days.Walking above its banks of the river wewere enchanted.

Atop a high point the river scene was trulymagnificent. The river flowed through anamber desert between granite rocks andshimmering green volcanic islands, cov-ered with palm groves and tropical plants.Embellishing this panorama of colourwere the felucca ships with their tall mastsand white sails covering the skyline. It is abreathtaking vista.

Later, we enjoyed the river's view from theterrace of the Sofitel Legend Old Cataract,a charming, renovated relic of British colo-nialism, where Agatha Christie wrote‘Death on the Nile’. Sipping our tea, weadmired the feluccas gliding on the wateraround the foliage-clad rocky islets. It wasa captivating scene, awe-inspiring in itsbeauty set in the aura of a sunset.

Touring Aswan

The pharaonic and other monuments inAswan are many but during our two dayvisit we only had time to visit a few. Fromamong these were: the unfinished Obelisk

- a monument left by the ancients; thereconstructed Philae Temple; and the HighDam - a structure of which the pharaohswould have been proud.

In between our visits to the monuments,we explored the souks, full of orientalcolour, then strolled the Corniche alongthe Nile. The edging mighty river was veryappealing.

Enjoying Aswan

Aswan, like many destinations in Egypt,has much to offer. It has been a favouritewinter resort since the beginning of the19th century. For Europeans and NorthAmericans, it is a perfect place to getaway from it all, especially during thecolder months back home. Spending timeimmersing myself in its scenic views andits monuments was a delightful climax tothe cruise through Upper Egypt, land ofthe pharaohs.

For More Info on Egypt:

http://www.egypt.travel

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in each packet - sufficient for 45 hours flying time.

www.nojetlag.com

29

New Zealand

Experience Christchurch of today

By Ruth Atherley

30

31


The city of Christchurch is in full swingwith its exciting rebuild plan after theearthquakes it experienced a little over twoyears ago. The city and the surroundingregion of Canterbury offer many things todo, places to stay and eat, and areabsolutely ready to welcome visitors.

In true Kiwi form, the people ofChristchurch are focusing on finding thesilver lining and while remembering andhonouring the past, they are embracingthe future. The focus is now on creating aworld-class city that engages both localsand visitors. A blueprint plan that concen-trates on creating an accessible, world-class city that showcases all the fabulousactivities, restaurants, accommodation andbusiness opportunities that Christchurchhas to offer has been developed and is inthe process of being brought to life.

Experience Christchurch of

today

While the people of Christchurch are look-ing forward, they realize that many visitorswant to better understand what happenedtwo years ago. Quake City is an interac-tive experience that outlines the scienceand the human interest elements behindthe earthquakes. Punting on the Avon isone of the most popular activities inChristchurch and now visitors can take thetour through the “red zone” – now therebuild zone. Here you can see the workbeing done and get an up-close view ofthe uncrushable Kiwi spirit that shinesthrough as the city is recreated. In fact,each day many of the areas of the city arebeing reopened to the public and, as thishappens, you can see the joy and pride inthe faces of the people who callChristchurch home.

You can also check out the CardboardCathedral. This structure is being built totemporarily replace the historicChristchurch Cathedral, which was dam-aged during the earthquakes. Churchservices will be held in the CardboardCathedral, which is made of paper tubescoated with waterproof polyurethane, andis expected to open in June 2013 withseating for 700.

Shop and sip

For those interested in shopping, theRe:START mall is an area that offers someof the best New Zealand designers.Re:START may not be the first shippingcontainer shopping mall in the world, butit is one of the most creative, appealingand – a priority in New Zealand – fun!

Over 50 retailers are located right in theheart of the city, including great cafés, theperfect place to rest your weary feet aftera morning of trying on designer duds andchecking out the bright, vibrant and ener-getic area. There is also New RegentStreet, which is a quaint street full of shopsand boutiques – and, of course, cafés.After all, shopping and coffee were madefor each other.

Discover the magic of the

Canterbury region

While Christchurch is a fabulous city, visi-tors are also encouraged to venture outinto the Canterbury region. And who bet-ter to show it to you than a fifth genera-tion Canterburian – a real local. A local’slocal, if you will. David Hiatt runsCanterbury Guiding Company, a special-ized tour provider that offers excursionsthat you just can’t get anywhere else. Heknows winemakers and cheese makers,farmers and artisans and, relevant to hisguests’ interests, he makes magic happen.David and his team know every inch ofthe Canterbury region – the wineries, therestaurants, the trails, the farms and thepeople. If the guests want it, David canmake it happen. One day it might be abehind-the-scenes chat and tasting with acheese maker. The next day, it might be aballoon ride to view the mountains andsea or a wine tasting with the winemaker.One thing is for certain – David is the guyto take people to see the Canterbury thatthe residents know and love.

Air New Zealand (www.airnewzealand.ca)has direct non-stop flights from Vancouverto Auckland and offers flights from manyother North American cities.

For more information about New Zealand,please visit: www.NewZealand.com.

32

New Zealand

Top 5 Ways to Discover Maori Culture in New

By Ruth Atherley

Cape Reinga

Maori spirits are said to travel afterdeath to the pohutukawa tree on CapeReinga. Sliding down a root to theunderworld below, they head northwardto the ancestral land of Hawaiiki-a-nui.

Photo: Ben Crawford


Many visitors to New Zealand want tolearn more about the Maori people, theirhistory and traditions. Below are the topfive Maori focused activities in NewZealand.

Step Into It

Tour with a Maori guide whose ancestorsdate back to before Europeans arrived inthe region at the magnificent WaitangiTreaty Grounds. Considered the birthplaceof New Zealand and overlooking thebreathtaking Bay of Islands, it was here onFebruary 6, 1840 that the Treaty ofWaitangi was first signed between Maorichiefs and the British Crown. Visitors canenter an awe-inspiring, fully carved marae(meeting house), stand at the exact spotwhere the treaty was signed and check outthe artistry of one of the world’s largestwakas (ceremonial war canoe) – which isapproximately 117 feet long, can carry 80paddlers and was made from only twopieces of wood.

Learn It

Rotorua is home to Te Puia, NewZealand’s premier Maori cultural centre.Te Puia gives visitors the opportunity to notonly learn about Maori history, traditions,art and culture, but they can also gethands-on experience at the NationalCarving and Weaving Schools of NewZealand. This fun, interactive learningexperience gives everyone who partici-pates a new appreciation for Maori tradi-tions and art.

Eat It

For most people, walking around the for-est gathering plants and herbs for lunchwouldn’t be a highlight of their day.However, just outside of Rotorua, at theaward-winning Treetops Lodge & Estate,this very activity is a popular way to gatherand forage in the forest much like theMaori people did hundreds of years ago.Guests embark on this adventure with anoted Maori chef. He not only guidesthem, sharing his knowledge about nativeMaori cuisine and the indigenous herbs

and plants, but will also prepare a fabu-lous lunch with the herbs and plants fromthe forest.

Live It

Te Hana, a new Maori cultural centre nearAuckland, offers guests the chance to trav-el back in time just by walking through itsdoors. The Maori village provides visitorswith unique 17th century insights into pre-European Maori life. Led by a guide, visi-tors experience authentic Maori eventssuch as a powhiri (a traditional welcomeceremony), they tour the village and learnby first-hand experience and participationabout Maori culture. There is also theopportunity to taste the foods cooked intraditional Maori style. As an addedbonus, visitors can stay overnight in themarae, which is a rare, bucket list oppor-tunity.

Play With It

Located in Wellington, Te Papa is NewZealand’s national museum. Visitors areoften surprised and delighted at how funand interactive Te Papa is. The five areasof its collections – art, history, Pacific,Maori and natural environment – areshared with visitors in a highly creativeand innovative manner that fully engagesall the senses. It’s impossible not to getinvolved at Te Papa.

For more information about New Zealand,please visit: www.NewZealand.com.

33

Zealand

34

sweden

Stockholm and Beyond – A Smorgasbord of Sights



From the cobbled streets ofStockholm’s Old Town to the cathe-dral spires of Uppsala, this dazzlingScandinavian country will steal your heart– even in winter.

Climate

While most Canadians are dreaming ofsandy beaches and warm temperatures, itcan also be just as invigorating to take atrip to another cool clime and soak upsome rays of culture and history in lieu ofslathering on the sunscreen. Midsummerdaylight hours can number more than 18,and less than 6 in the the depths of winter.The climate in march can be similar tothat of Toronto, temperatures aroundfreezing, with spring showing it’s face onrandom days, and flurries on others.Landing at Arlanda Airport, a short dis-tance from Central Stockholm, I wasgreeted by a snowy landscape but (thank-fully) no vicious wind chill. The bus takesapproximately 30 minutes to the CentralStation, the major hub for bus/train trans-fers and commuter trains.

Language

The vast majority of Swedes are multi-lin-gual. Fluent in English with barely anaccent, they are sympathetic to baffledtravellers attempting to navigate streetswith hard to pronounce names, and onlytoo happy to assist. For the adventurous,here are some basic phrases to get yourteeth into:

Hello - Hej (‘Hey’)

Goodbye Hej da (‘hey dah’)

How are you? Hur mar du? (‘Hoormor doo’)

Yes Ja (‘Yah’)

No Nej (‘Nay’)

Stockholm – The Jewel in

the Crown

Stockholm is Sweden’s capital, located inthe south-east part of the country, and islocated on 14 islands in the Stockholmarchipelago. Glittering waterways, soaringspires, parks and green spaces co-exist inaesthetic harmony with distinguishedarchitecture, medieval streets and modernretailers. Culturally rich, historically signifi-cant and with a state of the art transit sys-tem, this Scandinavian treasure has muchto offer.

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See Sweden on page 36

as traditional Swedish fare, ‘Meatballs’was the most frequent response, and any-thing with loganberries. Of course, whenin Sweden, one has to experience thefamous smorgasbord. From the Swedishword Smorgas (open-faced sandwich) andbord (table), it’s essentially a buffet. As inNorth America, Asian-style buffets arepopular destinations, with Pong (pon-gasian.se) a favourite with locals and astone’s throw from the bustle ofDrottninggatan. Most coffee shops have agood selection of sandwiches and salads,with vegetarian choices available in mostestablishments.

Architecture

Photo opportunities abound in Stockholm.The Royal Palace, Kungliga Slottet, is theofficial residence and major royal palaceof the Swedish Monarch, King Carl XVIGustaf. Located on Stadsholmen (CityIsland), this stunning cream-colouredstone beauty is especially beautiful at sun-set, photographed from the Riksbron(National or State) Bridge, which crossesthe Norrstrom River and it’s mini rapids.

For culture vultures, the Royal SwedishOpera House, located on the north side ofthe Norrstrom River and connected to theRoyal Palace through the Norrbro Bridge,is what one would expect from a distin-guished European Opera company. Theoriginal building, dating from 1775, waslater demolished in 1892 to give way tothe present building, a neo-classical beau-ty simply referred to as ‘Operan’ (TheOpera), written in gold letters over animposing exterior archway. The RoyalFamily of King Carl XVI Gustaf has a per-manently-reserved Royal Box, perhaps asa nod to their ancestor King Gustav III, agreat patron of the arts and the manresponsible for the original construction.

Shopping Around

Like most major cities, Stockholm has itsmajor shopping hub, and in this case theserious shoppers should seek outDrottninggatan (Queen Street). Marked bystone lions, it stretches from the RiksbronBridge in the Norrmalm District, as far asObservatorilunden in Vasastaden, it is apedestrianized plethora of boutiques, sou-venir shops and of course, H&M. NorthAmerican visitors should be aware of theshorter retail hours than we are accus-tomed to; most stores open at 10am andclose up at 6pm, later on Thursdays andFridays. Sweet-toothed folk should defi-nitely schedule a visit to Karamellafar, asugary paradise and the perfect spot tofind typical Swedish candies and delicacies


Sweden


36 The old town, or Gamla Stan, dates fromthe 11th century and is a photographer’sdream. Winding cobbled streets, hiddenlanes and tall narrow buildings mark thispart of town as a must-see for every trav-eller. Located on the original smallislands of the city’s earliest settlements, ithas kept its original medieval street layoutand flavor, and deserves its reputation asone of the main tourist destinations.

Stores selling ceramic Viking figurines andplastic Viking helmets lay cheek by jowlwith the artisan studios, such as Artgatan([email protected]). Reasonably-pricedhand-crafted leather jewellery and a largevariety of angelic-themed gifts provideunique options if it’s originality you seek.

Food and Drink

Like any major city, coffee shops havesprung up all over Stockholm, but for atruly alternative experience to the genericEspresso House (which is still far moreglamorous than the North Americanchains), drop into the Art Café onVasterlanggatan 60. Located in a cellardown some very dungeonesque stonesteps, take a break from walking those(sometimes slippery) cobbled stones andenjoy what the Swedes refer to as fika(coffee and cake). Don’t miss the denselydelicious coconut balls and robust coffeeserved in a tall glass. Check out the origi-nal artworks on the walls, and if the tim-ing is right, sit on a multi-cultural lan-guage class.

As a result of strict liquor laws in Sweden,it is worth noting that any alcoholic prod-uct above 3.5% is only available atSystembolaget, the government-ownedchain of liquor stores (although grocerystores sell lower-alcohol beer and cider-type beverages).The legal age to purchaseliquor is 20, 18 to drink it in bars andrestaurants. Opening hours are usuallyuntil 7 on weekdays, 3 on Saturday,closed Sundays. Anyone who looksyounger than 25 could be asked for I.D.,so be prepared.

When I asked some locals what counted

Day Tripping

71 km north of Stockholm lies thecity of Uppsala, the fourth largest inSweden, and a record-breaker. Home toUppsala University, founded in 1477 andthe oldest centre of higher education inScandinavia, this pretty town is in directcontrast to the cosmopolitan glamour ofthe Swedish capital, but with a reputationall its own. The cathedral, at 118.7mhigh, is the tallest church building inScandinavia, dating back to the 13th cen-tury, and Uppsala University Library is thelargest in Sweden, home to the CodexArgenteus, or Silver Bible, a 6th centurymanuscript containing a 4th century trans-lation of the bible into the Gothic lan-guage.

No European trip would be complete with-out a castle, and Uppsala’s is a Disney-worthy vision, perched at the top of thecity, turrets glowing pink in the sunset,complete with romantic views, such as theBotanical Gardens. Home to the governorof Uppsala, the former Hall of State canbe rented for private functions such asconventions, banquets and weddingreceptions, and can accommodate up to550 guests. Next best thing to a RoyalWedding itself!

In spite of it being barely on the cusp ofSpring, chilly days making it a challengeto hold a camera steady and enjoy theoutdoors as much as one would wish, Idon’t regret choosing a ScandinavianWinter odyssey over a more Snowbird-friendly beach vacation. Friendly people,ancient history, glittering waterways allaround, just firmed my resolve to returnfor the summer perspective. And longerdays in which to do it.


largest Galleria. Over 80 stores under oneroof, with cafes, restaurants and coffeeshops to suit all tastes. There’s also aTourist Information Centre, and free inter-net and WiFi.

Local Colour

Like many big cities, Stockholm has it’smarket, conveniently located in the centreof Hotorget, or Hay Square, on the cornerof Kungsgatan and Sveavag. Once thecity’s actual Hay Market, weekdays youcan find an appealing array of fruits,flower and vegetable produce. Sunday itmorphs into a flea market where cannyshoppers may be lucky enough to scoresome vintage vinyl from one of the manyvendors. Hotorget is also home to theKonserthuset (concert hall), the PUBdepartment store, and multi-screen movietheatre.

Museums

With an overwhelming number of choices( http://www.stockholmmuseum.com/muse-ums/) , I decided to ask for local opinion.One name that kept coming up was theVasamuseet (vasamuseet.se), which frus-tratingly, was closed for renovations untilMay 1st 2013. Second choice was theNobel Museum in Gamla Stan (nobelmu-seum.se), named for Alfred Nobel, creatorof the eponymous prize and the inventorof dynamite.

In 1888 Nobel’s brother Ludwig diedwhile in Cannes, and the French newspa-pers mistakenly published Alfred’s obitu-ary. The headline ‘Le marchand de lamort est mort’ (The merchant of death isdead, a reference to the destructiveaspects of his invention), gave Nobelpause for thought as to his legacy. In1895, he signed his last will and testa-ment, setting aside the bulk of his estateto establish the Nobel Prizes.

such as dark chocolate bars made withsparkling wine and speckled with goldleaf.

Fans of the vintage experience shouldmake a point of seeking out Beyond Retro(beyondretro.com), a well-organizedAladdin’s cave of men’s and women’sclothing, shoes and accessories. Pricerange is higher than a thrift store andcould be compared to one of the moreupmarket emporiums to be found, forexample, on Toronto’s Queen Street Weststrip. That said, the garments are in greatshape, which might explain the absence ofthe musty odour that often accompaniessimilar stores.

The aforementioned Swedish giant H&Mhas a huge presence in Stockholm, with ahuge selection that is reasonably-priced.The merchandise varies slightly fromcountry to country, as was explained to meby an assistant (perfectly fluent in English,of course), so if you’re looking for somecheap and cheerful Swedish fashion youmay not see back home, you won’t haveto look far to find a branch of the famousfashion retailer.

Looking for more exclusivity? Then headto Ahlens (ahlens.se), Sweden’s largestchain of department stores. Sumptuousfashions, a large cosmetic and fragrancedepartment, homeware and electronics,and the Hemkop grocery store located inthe basement. Back in 2010, Ahlens gar-nered attention for using ‘real’-sized man-nequins in their displays, eliciting a posi-tive response by a clientele tired of theunrealistic body images portrayed by thefashion industry. This controversy recentlysparked up again on social networkingsites and has been a point of discussionon the internet.

On bad-weather days, hunker down in theGallerian Mall, Stockholm’s first and

37

38

South Africa

Top 5 Photo Safari Photo Tips

By James Tyrrell, Ranger, Londolozi Game Reserve

that allow the photographer to take shotsin almost any light. Higher ISO levels (ameasure of the sensitivity to light of thecamera’s sensor) in particular, can rendercameras able to produce sharper imagesin much lower light than in years past. Theproblem with a high ISO is that it pro-duces what is known as “noise” and canresult in a grainy image. Brighter condi-tions such as daylight mean more light,lower ISO and a clearer image. One ofthe challenges people have heading outon a safari drive at daybreak is that theircamera settings are from the night beforewhen it was much darker. Try to make it arule to check your camera’s settingsbefore heading out before you miss theshot of a lifetime.

5. Be aware of the vehicle

(or other large objects

near you)

On a safari, animals move around thevehicles and the tendency is to followthem with your camera, eye on theviewfinder, waiting for the best shot. Beaware of the things surrounding you – theback of a seat, a piece of the safari vehi-cle or even your fellow guests, as youdon’t want to inadvertently catch even thesmallest part of them in your frame.

Londolozi Game Reserve(www.londolozi.com), a stand-alone familyrun operation, has traversing rights over25,000 acres of prime game viewing landin the heart of the Sabi Sands GameReserve in Kruger National Park and is thefirst game reserve in the world to beaccorded Relais & Châteaux status, visitorsto Londolozi fall under the magical spellof South Africa, creating memories thatlast a lifetime and that call them to comeback again and again


39For many travellers, taking photos is apart of the travel experience and they pro-vide wonderful memories of their vacation.Taking a good photo isn’t always as easyas it seems, however. And, for those luckyenough to experience a South Africansafari, taking photos can be a real chal-lenge since the photo subjects are a little,well, wild.

The Londolozi blog is used as a showcasefor the wonderful images and videos thatsome of the rangers at South Africa’s pre-mier game reserve manage to capturewhile out on safari with guests. However, ifyou ask any of the rangers – at Londolozior elsewhere – who are consistently takinggreat shots, they will tell you that the thou-sand shots they have missed have taughtthem lessons that now help them to getgreat shots.

We asked the Londolozi rangers to sharesome of their most important tips abouthow to get the best photos out of yoursafari (or any vacation). They told us:

1. Don’t cut off the tail

Or the wing, or the hoof, or the ear…Unless you are going for an abstract shot,images generally work far better if allparts of the animal (or person) you aretrying to photograph are in the frame.Long things like a leopard’s tail danglingoff a branch, the tip of an elephant’s trunkor the horns of a kudu are some obviousones to watch out for. Cutting off thesepieces, even if only a tiny part of them,leads your eye to the edge of the frameand detracts greatly from the image.

2. Do cut the grass

Vegetation in front of your subject mattervery rarely works. If you are trying to high-light the camouflage of an animal, then avegetated foreground can be great, buteven the smallest leaf or blade of grasscan spoil an otherwise great image, par-ticularly a portrait shot.

3. Shoot at eye-level

whenever possible

Eye-level shots can dramatically enhancethe impact of a photograph. The visualdynamic of a photo taken at eye-level iscompelling compared to one taken fromabove the subject. It is far more effectivein drawing you into the photo.

4. Check your settings

With digital photography advancing at arapid rate, newer cameras are able tocompensate for changing light conditions

42

Argentina

Buenos Aires and The South

By Steven Sanders

While Buenos Aires is a must for all visi-tors the Argentina, the country’s real gemscertainly lie away from the capital, andnobody who lives outside of the capitalwill let you believe otherwise. Theovernight buses that operate to each cor-ner of the country are renowned as beingsome of the world’s best, and a 20 hoursouthbound trip in my huge, fully recliningseat showed me just why.

I spent a few days in Puerto Madryn, acoastal town in Northern Patagonia whichwelcomes 1000’s of Penguins to the near-by beach of Punta Tombo every Februaryand March. Surrounded by the intriguingWelsh towns of Rawson, Trelew, andGaiman, Puerto Madryn is a gentle intro-duction to Patagonia, which appearedmore spectacular the further south I head-ed.

El Calafate is a must for those making thejourney to Argentine Patagonia. The townitself is beautiful with log-cabin style storesand restaurants lining the streets andoffering some of the finest Argentine steakavailable. A day is all I needed torecharge my batteries before ending myArgentinian trip at one of country’s mostspectacular natural attractions.

Perito Moreno Glacier is situated in LosGlaciares National Park – just an hourfrom El Calafate - and is one of only three‘stable’ glaciers in Patagonia, meaning itis not retreating – something which comesas a surprise when watching chunks ofrocks bigger than the family car crashinginto Lake Argentino at will. Every view isstunning, the sounds piercing and thefreshness of the crisp, mountain airdreamlike. The sheer audacity of thelooming glacier offered time to reflect,before finishing of the day with a famousglass of Argentine red.


43South America’s second largest country isa rollercoaster ride of passion and suave-ness that rubs off on even the mostresilient of visitors. The cities of BuenosAires and Córdoba offer only the fastlane, yet being on-time may as well be acrime. The humid north offers arguablythe world’s most spectacular waterfalls,while the glaciers and snow-cappedmountains of the beautiful Patagoniansouth gleam as if frozen in time.Throughout the country you will find awealth of proud and friendly locals whowill insist that their famous steak and wineis the world’s best. Many visitors find ithard to disagree.

Llamas, alpacas, and vicuñas occupy thenorth western Andes area; jaguars andpumas roam the central north; deer,emus, foxes and even visiting penguinsinhabit the south. Welcome to Argentina,where absolutely anything is possible.

Buenos Aires

Buenos Aires doesn’t give you a chance tosettle in. With its diverse neighbourhoodsperched on the Rio de la Plata, the capitalof Argentina is a true example of a citythat never sleeps. With European stylearchitecture providing the backdrop to oneof the world’s best dressed cities, BuenosAires seductively charms visitors with anabundance of fine dining, sultry tangoand world class nightlife.

Working Class

I began my Buenos Aires adventure in theworking class barrio of San Telmo, whichis home to a plethora of hole-in-the-wallrestaurants where you can sample thecity’s best choripan – chorizo sausage in abun – as well as the San Telmo marketevery Sunday. Near to our lodgings in thisseemingly European part of town, I usedthe Plaza de Mayo as a meeting area andpoint of reference whenever navigatingthe map, and here you can take in theCasa Rosada, home of the presidentialoffices and the balcony from where EvaPerón gave many famous speeches.

Recoleta Cemetery is a major touristattraction housing elegant, homely tombsfor the rich and famous of the city’s pastincluding Evita, and the surrounding bar-rio of Recoleta is home to some of BuenosAires’ best shopping malls. Caminito, thefamous colourful streets in the barrio of LaBoca are just a short bus or taxi ride awayfrom the centre, where one can take thecustomary tourist photos and pick upsome souvenirs.

Virginia’s

Blue Ridge Mountains

By Eileen Cotter

44

Photo: Roanoke Valley Convention & Visitors Bureau

Roanoke’s impressive

cultural initiative

After years of planning and organizing,Center in the Square in set to be in fullswing. As a new 200,000 square-footlandmark in the center of town, this com-plex will be home to a myriad of thingsthat inspire wonder and entertainment. Itwill be free of charge to enter, then visitorscan choose which activities they’d like todo – including a butterfly room, communi-ty theater, science museum and even acenter for African American culture. I wasmost blown away by the building’s rooftopgarden, though, as it is a sprawling spacethat overlooks the mountains and citybelow.

Reaching for the stars

No visit to this area would be completewithout a trip up to The Roanoke Star. Bydriving or hiking up a nearby hill, guestscan reaching a vantage point overRoanoke that offers spectacular views,topped with the world’s largest man-madestar. At night it is illuminated and offers adazzling display overlooking the citybelow.

A farmer’s market fit for

a king

Every single day of the year, Roanokehosts a farmer’s market that has both per-manent stalls and ever-changing vendorsoffering their local produce, wares andcrafts. As I first walked through the giantdisplay, known as the Historic MarketDistrict, the fresh herb stalks and vibrantjewelry made my hand. Since the 1800s,the market has been a staple in the down-town area in one form or another, movingbetween the outdoor street space andinside buildings during the colder season.


The transformation of

Virginia’s Blue Ridge

Mountains

Huge strides have been made to ensurethe Blue Ridge Mountain region of Virginiais making leaps and bounds in tourismand quality of life. Initiatives to enhanceeverything from the local music scene tocreating a lively farmer’s market atmos-phere are rapidly being put into place.What was once a charming city full ofquaint cafes and pretty, hilly vires is still agorgeous place to visit, now with lots moreto do and experience.

Keeping tradition alive

through art

Roanoke prides itself in its visual creativity,reflecting throughout the architecture, lay-out and design of the city. At the entrancesof the bustling City Market Building down-town are beautiful mosaics depictingimages from local history in vivid color.These details can be seen throughoutRoanoke, making each corner aesthetical-ly pleasing.

A hearty meal not to miss

When I walked into Texas Tavern, I wasn’tsure what to expect. The greasy-spoonstyle diner looked fairly unassuming, butthen I sat down to one of their signature“Cheesy Westerns”, which immediatelymade me a new fan. This burger coveredin relish, cheese and a scrambled eggsounds unusual but can be a satisfyingsandwich any time of day. Since the 1930sthis diner has been a popular wateringhole in town as a wallet-friendly and funplace to experience.

45

See Virginia on page 46

rewarded myself with a cupcake at Viva LaCupcake from the biking, but had a hardtime deciding between the signaturechocolate and new peach flavor

Country-style eats

While Virginia might not be one of thecontestants for the most southern state, itcertainly offers some amazing southern-style cuisine that rivals any other statebelow the Mason-Dixon. Not only is thefood hearty and memorable, theambiance is often something to admire aswell. At The Homeplace Restaurant, theyhave created an old farm stead, surround-ed by rolling hills, cattle and plenty ofbenches to ponder on. Inside, the menu isthe same for everyone, family-style, com-plete with fried chicken, potatoes, greensand all the fixings. Each dinner is finishedwith a gooey homemade cobbler.

Music and dancing down-

town

People in Roanoke love live entertainment,so those visiting will never have a problemfinding fun things to do in the evenings.During my time, I witnessed an excitingevent called Down by Downtown, whichallows local and national band to beshowcased in venues and bars at thesame time, so concert goers can pick andchoose their favorites. Between blues,indie, bluegrass and a little rock, I couldn’tdecide which was best.

I can’t wait to see what’s in store for TheBlue Ridge Mountain region of Virginia, asI was already thrilled with what this arealready offers travelers looking for out-door fun, art, music and much more.

Thought-provoking modern

art

Everyone has tentatively spying the amaz-ing exhibits inside the Taubman Museumof Art, covering a millennia of artworksfrom old favorite talents and new, upcom-ing stars. The space itself is bright andsunny, with a stand-out exterior created tomimic organic lines and design. My pre-ferred exhibit was the shiny handbags cre-ated by Judith Leiber, presented in space-like bubbles for the optimal view space.

Classic wheels and steam

dreams

The legacy of the steam engine train stillruns strong through Roanoke’s historicaltales and modern livelihood. Locals havedone impressive things to preserve someof these marvels in classic technology. Forinstance, a walk through the VirginiaTransportation Museum is a walk back intime, as guests can see various musclecars and relics from the past. The real starof the show is the locomotives outside,including the famous steam engines thatwere loved and photographed by O.Winston Link. His images are also on dis-play at a museum inside the Roanoke visi-tor center.

Flying high at a special

festival

Roanoke may be the biggest city in theBlue Ridge Mountain region, but Salemnext door has jusr as many interestingattractions and events happening year-

round. I spent an entire day in Salem at itsannual kite festival, which was the perfectway to enjoy a sunny spring morning.Hundreds of kite flyers head to this gath-ering that is ideal for families (most chil-dren receive free kites) and enthusiastswho like to fly and also watch professionaldemonstrations. Colors burst in the skyand are beautifully framed by the sur-rounding green peaks.

The second home of Red

Sox Nation

All summer long, baseball fan are delight-ed to visit Salem’s Memorial Ballpark for aAAA game. The Salem Red Sox team isbased there, offering locals and travelersalike a chance to see some real talent onbase, some of which make it to the majorleagues.

Biking along the Roanoke

River

The Blue Ridge Mountains was made forthose how love the outdoors. Cycling fanswill be thrilled to know that there is anextensive network of scenic trails that con-nect Roanoke to other neighboring towns,many of which run along the RoanokeRiver.

Stopping for antiques and

rare finds

While enjoying the leisurely bike ride, Imade a stop to window shop at Black DogSalvage an eclectic antique store that isowned by Robert Kulep and MikeWhiteside. These guys now have their ownreality show about scouring the country forexciting home furnishings and many otheritems. Always busy and rarely looking thesame on any two days, the store is theperfect pit stop to pick up a unique sou-venir

Earth Day in Grandin

Cycling was a fantastic activity, but I alsoenjoyed walking through the annual EarthDay celebrations at the end of our ride.Every year local vendors and businessesline the streets of Grandin promoting sus-tainability and eco-friendly living. I

46


Virginia


cwt spring/summer 2013

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