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Development Of Nutraceuticals And Cosmeticeuticals From Indigenous Cosmeticeuticals From Indigenous and Traditional Plants: The Ml i E i Malaysian Experience Prof Dr Farida Habib Shah Prof Dr . Farida Habib Shah Universiti Tunku Abdul Rahman Also, Novel Plants Sdn Bhd [email protected]

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Development Of Nutraceuticals And Cosmeticeuticals From IndigenousCosmeticeuticals From Indigenous

and Traditional Plants: The M l i E iMalaysian Experience

Prof Dr Farida Habib ShahProf Dr. Farida Habib ShahUniversiti Tunku Abdul Rahman

Also,,Novel Plants Sdn Bhd

[email protected]

The Melaka Experience:The Melaka Experience:Biotechnology Initiativesgy

Melaka Biotechnology Corporationgy p

Melaka Biotech Holdings Sdn BhdM l k I tit t f Bi t h l Melaka Biotech Holdings Sdn BhdMelaka Institute of Biotechnology

Malaysia is one of the 12 mega-diversity countriesf th ld d l f th 25 id tifi dof the world and also one of the 25 identified

biodiversity hotspots in the world.

The 12 countries above together contain at least 60% of the world’s known spp. Malaysia contains about 7% of the world’s spp.

Plant Species Diversity in Malaysiap y y

Malaysia is listed as the 4thlisted as the 4

most biodiversity inbiodiversity in Asia with over

15 00015,000flowering plants and over 3000

species of pmedicinal plants

• According to Malaysia National Policy of Biodiversity,there are needs to conserve the biodiversity:

Economic BenefitsFood SecurityEnvironmental StabilityNational Biological HeritageEducational, Scientific

Out of 3000 listed medicinal plants, only about 50 arel it d i ll d h d i tifi ll fexploited commercially and researched scientifically for

their medicinal properties.

Why the need to document the plantWhy the need to document the plant biodiversity?y

• Basis of global food security• Resurgence of interest to use plants as medicines• Increasing great demands of plant based drugs• Increasing great demands of plant based drugs• Provide better understanding of the plants at their

genetic level• The need for effective and sustainableThe need for effective and sustainable

information gathering and disseminationsystem for local economic plant speciessystem for local economic plant species.

Out of 3000 listed medicinal plants, only about 50p , yare exploited commercially and researchedscientifically for their medicinal properties.

According to WHO, use of herbal medicine needsto beto be1. Regulated so that there is no case ofinappropriate use e g wrong identification of plantinappropriate use e.g. wrong identification of plantspecies2. O f ‘good quality of herbal medicines’g q y3. Proper standardisation and optimisation4. Constant Supply of raw materialspp y

1 Objectives1. Objectives1. To screen indigenous and traditional plants g p

in process of discovery of new plant resources for plant extracts to be used inresources for plant extracts to be used in cosmeceuticals and nutricosmetics industriesindustries.

2. To scale-up the production of these extracts and /or bioactive compounds for commercial use.commercial use.

3. To develop formulation for product d l tdevelopment

The Initial Steps

An Integrated Approach

Activities

• Screen plants for different groups of compounds

• Set up related activities tissue cultureSet up related activities, tissue culture , farming , extraction units etc

i d b i h b di• Setting up database with DNA barcoding for documentation and standards

• Development of down stream activities

Database integrationExtraction of oils and Database integrationand DNA barcoding Terpenoids, etc

Screening Invitro productionPlants speciesand chemotypingpPlants species

F i

Suspension culture

Farm growing

Buy back for productBuy back for productdevelopment

2 0 Activities2.0 Activities

• Screening of > 200 Malaysian medicinal and aromatic plants species for:a o a c p a s spec es o :

1. Essential oils2 Terpenoids2. Terpenoids3. Phytosterol compounds4 Anti oxidants4. Anti oxidants5. Antibacterial6 Antifungal6. Antifungal 7. Anti tumour activity

3. Spin- off companies• InVitro tech Sdn Bhd -Supply of banana

and medicinal plants for growth to growersand medicinal plants for growth to growers in all states

• Tropical Bioessence Sdn Bhd-Processing of Herbs for down stream cosmetics and aromatherapy and perfume

• DNA Marker Technologies Sdn Bhd• DNA Marker Technologies Sdn Bhd

THE NEXT STEP

Database intergrationExtraction of oils and Database intergrationand barcoding terpenoids

Screening Invitro productionPlants speciesand chemotypingpPlants species

F i

Suspension culture

Farm growing

Buy back for productExtracts for Buy back for productdevelopment

Extracts forNutricosmeticsAndAnd Cosmeceuticals

What are Cosmeceutical and Nutricosmetic Products?

C ti l N t i ti• Cosmeceuticals– A class of cosmetic products

A blending of the words

• Nutricosmetics– A class of cosemetic

products with– A blending of the words “cosmetics” and “pharmaceutical”

I t th t ti l

products with nutraceutical properties

– Incorporate the potential health benefits of specific nutrients and food components (e.g., vitamins,

– Products developed to aid skin health, but are components (e.g., vitamins,

phytochemicals, enzymes, antioxidants and essential oils) into skin products, such as

ti i d

ingested, are called “nutricosmetics”

anti-aging creams and moisturizers

– Applied directly to the skin,

– Aim to create radiant beauty from the inside outpp y ,

creating beauty from outside. out.

Nutraceuticals

'A nutraceutical is any substance that is a food or a f f d d id di l h l hpart of a food and provides medical or health

benefits, including the prevention and treatment of didisease. Such products may range from isolated nutrients, dietary supplements and specific diets to genetically engineered designer foods, herbal products, and processed foods such as cereals, soups and beverages.

Needs for Cosmeceutical and Nutricosmetic Products

Long tradition of interest in C ti l d– Long tradition of interest in products and foods to enhance beauty in the Asia Pacific market

Cosmeceutical and nutricosmetics products are tt ti t fill th

– 72% of women who buy natural and organic beauty

attempting to fill the growing consumer demand for more h l hf l d d

g yproducts believe in the concept of beauty from the inside out.

healthful products and capture part of the global multibillion

– Continues to support this region as an important launching area for new

dollar market for skin care products.

launching area for new cosmeceutical products.

Cosmeceutical and Nutricosmetic Products: Market and Growth

• CosmeceuticalsN tricosmetic– Current estimated $66 billon

skin care market. • Nutricosmetic

– Estimated current nutricosmetics market is $1 to $2 billion

– Sales of cosmeceuticals have grown into a $14 billion industry worldwide.

– US market for oral beauty products grew at ~16% between 2001 and 2006

– Japan is a leader in beauty supplements, which account for 15% or $319 million of overall

2001 and 2006

– Continued US market growth predicted a market value of $1 315% or $319 million of overall

sales of dietary supplements.

In China beauty supplements

predicted a market value of $1.3 billion by 2011.

– Market for nutricosmetics also– In China, beauty supplements represent 13% or $558 million of overall dietary supplement sales.

Market for nutricosmetics also experienced ~13% growth during the period 2001- 2006 in Europe when it reached a market value of $836 million.

Oral Beauty Products MarketOral Beauty Products Market ValueValue

Novel Applications ofNovel Applications of Nutricosmetics

• The best delivery product vehicles are– fortified foods & beverages– beauty oriented dietary supplements

• Products must be– easy-to-use– multifunctional such as food and beverage products – address both health concerns and appearance.

• Examples of nutricosmetics– Yogurts enriched with beauty-enhancing ingredients– ready-to-drink tea– anti-aging jams– antioxidant-rich chocolate-based beauty products

Plant Bioactives for Cosmeceutical and N i i P d Add i GNutricosmetic Products-Addressing Gaps

• Demand for fresh and innovative nutricosmetic products• Screening for novel plant bioactives (antioxidants, anti-aging

metabolites) from new edible plant sources (go with native plants)metabolites) from new edible plant sources (go with native plants)

• Demand for innovative product-delivery strategies and ivehicles

– Applying new cutting-edge technologies in delivery mechanisms in the pharmaceutical and nanotechnology industriesin the pharmaceutical and nanotechnology industries

• Demand for stronger scientific evidence and quality t d d t t d tif th ffistandard to support and certify the efficacy– Rigorous and systematic scientific studies to sustain the

knowledge base for any claimsg y

Native Plant Bioactives inNative Plant Bioactives in Cosmetics & Nutricosmetics

Different products that provide unique benefits to the customer; for example Functional product (anti aging anti oxidant)for example, Functional product (anti-aging, anti-oxidant), organic or green product consisting of natural native plant materials.e s.

– Native and novel ingredients >> marketing advantageNative and novel ingredients marketing advantage– Scientifically proven bioactivity >>quality assurance– Scientifically formulated bioactivity >> custom madeScientifically formulated bioactivity >> custom made– Room for development >> growth, with Quality Control

Smart Partnerships

• In this case :• Novel Plants Sdn Bhd • with Melaka Institute• with Melaka Institute • and Acelbio Pty Ltd

( Australia and China)

T h l d P d t D l tTechnology and Product Development Platforms for Cosmetics & Nutricosmetics

Step 1: Selection, collection & pretreatment of materials

Advanced extraction technology

Step 2: Screening of extracts using chemical assays

Step 3: Functional test using biological assays

Step 4: Quality control and standardization of extracts

Step 5: Product development by formulating w/ extracts

Step 6: Stability test of developed productStep 6: Stability test of developed product

Herbal technology…. Standardization & quality control with proper integration of modern scientific techniqueswith proper integration of modern scientific techniques & traditional knowledge is important.

Roles of Molecular Markers in Herbal Drug TechnologyDrug Technology

1. Authentication of plant species of medical1. Authentication of plant species of medicalimportance.

2. Genotyping & quick identification of botanicalsamples.

3. Detection of adulteration/substitution4. Marker assisted selection of desirable chemotypes5. Medicinal plant breeding6. Applications in foods & nutraceuticals

DEVELOPMENT OF DNA MARKER DATABASE FOR MEDICINAL, AROMATIC AND 

ORNAMENTAL PLANTS IN MALAYSIAORNAMENTAL PLANTS IN MALAYSIA: BIODIVERSITY CONSERVATION IN MALAYSIA

Shah F.H., Nurul A.H.,

DNA MARKER TECHNOLOGIES SDN BHDDNA Fingerprinting Lab, Melaka Institute of Biotechnology

Email for correspondence: [email protected]

DNA Marker for identification of different 2 varieties

of Pegaga (Centella asiatica)E6 E7 E8

PB PA PB PA PB PA

of Pegaga (Centella asiatica)

a. Pegaga air- (PA)

E6 E7 E8 PB PA PB PA PB PA

b. Pegaga bulat- (PB)

DNA Marker for identification of different 3 varieties of Kacip Fatimah (Labisia pumila)

var. pumila var. lanceolata var. alata

ram:

A1 A2 A6 A9 A13 A1 A2 A6 A9 A13 A1 A2 A6 A9 A13 M

A1 A2 A6 A9 A13 A1 A2 A6 A9 A13 A1 A2 A6 A9 A13 M1. (variety pumila)

2 (variety lanceolata)2. (variety lanceolata)A1 A2 A6 A9 A13 A1 A2 A6 A9 A13 A1 A2 A6 A9 A13 M

3. (variety alata)

Steps for developmentSteps for development Cosmetics & Nutricosmetics

– Discover native plant materials with bioactive ingredientsingredients

– Extract the bioactive ingredients from bioactive natural materialsmaterials

– Bioactivity testing using chemical and bioassay platformsplatforms

– Quality control and standardization of extracts– Formulate the Cosmetics & Nutricosmetic productsFormulate the Cosmetics & Nutricosmetic products

with extracts and stability test of products

The Malaysian Native Plant InitiativeThe Malaysian Native Plant Initiative

What is special about these native plants forWhat is special about these native plants for business?

“M l i ” l l b di diff i i- “Malaysian” – local branding differentiation- “Novel ingredients” –product differentiation - “Higher activity” – performance differentiation- “Synergy” – combined bioactive extracts potentialSynergy combined bioactive extracts potential- “Scientifically proven” – Quality differentiation

Business Opportunities forCommercializing Cosmeceuticals and Nutricosmetics Products in Egypt !!!!Nutricosmetics Products in Egypt !!!!

Doing Business 

WHAT - The Opportunities to be Different:

• New natural bioactives in your productsDi bi ti d t t t d• Discover new bioactives and start a trend

• Scientifically proven bioactives and formulationQ lit d f t t l• Quality and safety control

• Long shelf life bioactivityC d• Cost advantages– High efficacy formulation at low concentrations

Cost effective quality control– Cost effective quality control– Handle wide range of seasonal plant material variations

Doing Businessg

WHY we’re Unique:WHY we re Unique:– Established technologies & protocols made available

– Suitability for industrial scale-up

– Scientifically proven & formulated productsScientifically proven & formulated products

N l bi ti ti ll d l d– Novel bioactives continually developed

– Access through licensing or commissioned R&D

How you can be involvedy

HOW - Do business :

– Develop prototypes with your extracts

– Develop scale-up process through licensed technology

– Mass produce through license with us/ other stakeholders

C ti I tiCosmetics InnovationWorkshop Feb 2009

COLLABORATIONfor (MENA) and HALAL market

Middle East/

Europe China

Middle East/

Africa MALAYSIAMALAYSIAIndiaPakistan

MIDDLE EAST AND THE MUSLIM WORLDMIDDLE EAST AND THE MUSLIM WORLDMIDDLE EAST AND THE MUSLIM WORLDMIDDLE EAST AND THE MUSLIM WORLD

•• Population: l.Population: l.88 billionbillionPopulation: l.Population: l.8 8 billion billion 112 112 countriescountries

•• Trade value: USD Trade value: USD 150150billion billion

Track Record

• NOVEL PLANTS SDN BHDMD P f F id Sh hMD, Prof Farida Shah(25 years in Plant Molecular Biology and Biotechnology)

• ACELBIO LTD ( China Pty Ltd)Associate Professor Wei ZhangChairman, AcelBio Pty Ltd (Bi i d Bi d t )(Bioprocessing and Bioproducts)

THANK YOU

shahf2@yahoo [email protected] Plants Sdn Bhd