Fashion in History: A Global Look

Tutor: Giorgio Riello

Week 20

Tueday 2 March 2010

Subcultures: Zoots to Chays

Dick Hebrige, Subculture: The Meaning of Style (London and New York, 1977), pp. 47-70: ch. 4. HC 1411.H3 (Also available as e-book).

David Muggleton, Inside Subculture: The Postmodern Meaning of Style (Oxford, 2000), pp. 131-155: ch. 7 ‘Resistance, Incorporation and Authenticity’. HD 5800.M8

Ted Polhemus, ‘Trickle Down, Bubble Up’, in Linda Welters and Abby Lillethun (eds.), The Fashion Reader (Oxford, 2007), pp. 327-331. 

Skinhead wearing Fred Perry

Scene from the Film This is England, 2007

2. Subcultures from the 1930s to the 1980s

"a killer-diller coat with a drape shape, reet pleats and shoulders padded like a lunatic's cell.“

Malcolm X

Teddy Boys 1962

Rockers 1964

Mods in Brighton 1964Sixties fashion Mod Rockers Newcastle

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kqbS7pxsTj8&feature=related

Students’ Protests in 1968

Woodstock festival, 15-18 August 1969

Amnesia’s members in 1976

Skinheads – Suedheadshttp://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xd_GcDz7UQc

Quentin Crisp (1908-99), author of The Naked Civil Servant (1968)

Village People in the late 1970s 1980 thriller, Cruising starring Al Pacino

Frankie goes to Hollywood and ‘Relax’

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yPLrXFw76Qg&feature=related

Gay subcultures became mainstream: The 2007 Cincinnati Gay Pride and the cover of the gay magazine Attitude

3. Subcultures, Styles and Fashion

David Muggleton, Inside Subculture: The Postmodern Meaning of Style (Oxford, 2000), pp. 131-155: ch. 7 ‘Resistance, Incorporation and Authenticity’. HD 5800.M8

“If you see someone who, it just looks like they’ve just gone out and spent two hundred pounds in London on the right punk gear and someone’s put the safety pins through it for them and someone’s put the studs on for ‘em and that, that’s not right, is it? What’s the fun of that?”

Cit. in David Muggleton, Inside Subculture: Postmodern Meaning of Style (2000), p. 145.

Sex Pistols - bill grundy tv showhttp://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p25SdQEnhHI

4. Subcultures and Fashion: Theoretical Implications

Paul Blumberg, The Decline and Fall of the Status Symbol: Some Thoughts on Status in a Post-industrial Society’, Social Problems, 21, No. 4 (1974), pp. 480-498.

Cybermod

New Age Glam

Mohican Punk

Grafiti

Pervs and Trannies

Barbaric Dolls

Fetish

Chavs hitting Burberry in the pockethttp://search.bbc.co.uk/cgi-bin/search/results.pl?tab=av&q=chavs&scope=all

Tainted Love1964 Gloria Joneshttp://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NSehtaY6k1U

1980 Soft Cell http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p3fCFkl-BFU

2001 Marilyn Mansonhttp://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VQuKo3SevVA

2005 Pussycat dollshttp://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w37thYX6aYM