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July 2010 www.korea.net
People & CultureJULY
2010
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PRELUDE
The Beauty of KoreaYangdong Village, located 16kmnortheast of the city of Gyeongju in Gyeongsangbuk-do Province,
along the Hyeongsan River, is a traditional village that has hardly
changed since the Joseon Dynasty. Dating from the 15th century,
the village today retains its ancient folk customs and itsyangban
(aristocratic) traditions amid many excellently preserved Joseon-
era buildings. Yangdong Village was included on UNESCOs
Tentative List of World Heritage sites in January 2002.
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CONTENTSJULY 2010 VOL. 6 NO. 7
PUBLISHERSeo Kang-soo,Korean Culture and Information Service
EDITING HEM KOREA Co., Ltd
E-MAIL [email protected]
PRINTING Samsung Moonwha Printing Co.
Allrightsreserved.No partofthispublicationmaybereproducedinany formwithoutpermissionfromKOREAandtheKoreanCultureand InformationService.
Thearticles publishedin KOREAdonot necessarilyrepresenttheviewsofthe publisher.The publisherisnotliableforerrorsoromissions.
Lettersto theeditorshouldincludethewritersfullnameandaddress.Lettersmaybe editedfor clarityand/orspace restrictions.
Ifyou wanttoreceiveafreecopy ofKOREAorwishto cancela subscription,pleasee-mail us.AdownloadablePDFfileofKOREAandamapandglossarywithcommonKoreanwordsappearinginourtextareavailablebyclickingonthethumbnailofKOREAonthe homepageof www.korea.net.
: 11-1110073-000016-06
COVER STORY 04
Once reckoned to be no more than a fad,
hallyu, or the Korean Wave, is set to sweep
across the world once more with some of
its hottest shows and movies yet.
TRAVEL 24
Jeju Island is Koreas best-known tourist
destination, blessed with a plethora of
natural riches. Little wonder that Koreans
just cant get enough of their idyllic island
getaway.
MY KOREA 30
It was another memorable World Cup for
Korea this year, with red-clad fans resuming
their places on the city streets. And for one
foreign resident, the excitement and warmth
brought memories of 2002 flooding back.
GLOBAL KOREA 36
Having long been recipients of aid, many
Koreans are now discovering the joy of
voluntary work in places as far afield
as South Asia and South America. Come
and meet some of the special people who
found fulfillment in giving.
SUMMIT DIPLOMACY 40
At the ninth Asia Security Summit,
President Lee Myung-bak outlined his
vision for Asias global role, rallied support
for a resolute response to North Korea,
and still found time to talk trade and
security with the leaders of Singapore.
NOW IN KOREA 44
From out of nowhere, Korea has emerged
as a cosmetics titan in East Asia.
Encharming beauty maniac, Koreas
stores lure customers with good service
and quality at excellent prices.
PEN & BRUSH 16
In a cynical world, Shin Gyeong-suk stands
apart with a deep-rooted faith in the power
of humanity. Hearteningly, it has made her
one of Koreas most popular writers.
PEOPLE 20
Though born in Germany, Lee Charm, the
head of the Korea Tourism Organization,
is as Korean as they come right down
to the nationality on his passport.
www.korea.net
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THE KOREAN
WAVESPREADSTO THE
WORLD
COVER STORY
Victory
Pro
duc
tion
A still from the TV drama Personal Preference, which stars Lee Min-ho and Son Ye-jin.
In its home country, hallyu the Korean Waveof TV series, movies and popsingers that swept across Asia was once considered no more than a fad. While itsbiggest hits,such as Winter Sonata and Dae Jang Geum (aired in the U.S. asJewel inthe Palace), were sensations overseas, the resulting glut of hallyu-prefixed outputwas often of a vastly inferior quality, leading many to think that its days werenumbered.But recently, hallyu has emerged stronger than ever, with its hitssweeping through Asia and onto the world stage. by Jeong Deok-hyeon
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Turning on the television in his hotel room on a recent
business trip to Vietnam, K. from Korea was astonished.
Though he had certainly glimpsed the posters of Korean
celebrities adorning the shops en route from the airport, he
hadnt expected to see them all again on his TV in a seemingly
endless procession of Korean drama shows. Seeing the actors
dubbed in Vietnamese was also a source of amusement. On
one show, he could swear that one persons voice was dubbing
every single character. Later asking a guide, who confirmed his
suspicion, whether it wasnt offputting to have one actor do all
the voices, he was told no it wasnt, because the dramas are
just so addictive.
And situations like this arent limited to Vietnam. At 9pm,
the golden hour for viewing figures, Korean dramas are a
common sight on Hong Kongs TV stations. ATV, one of the
largest outlets, currently shows Korean programming from 8
to 10:30pm, Monday to Friday. Just a few years ago, Korean
dramas were a marginal concern, with only two or three aired
per year. ThenDae Jang Geum, a historical tale about a female
physician in the Joseon Dynasty, seized a massive 50 percent
audience share, taking Korean TV shows into the big time.
China has proved just as susceptible to the Korean wave.
Again, the catalyst for success wasDae Jang Geum, which
gained an audience share of at least 15 percent in 31 major
cities across the country, followed by other big hits such as
Full House and Stairway to Heaven. Such has been the success
of Korean stars in the country, some are now appearing in
homegrown Chinese productions. After gaining popularity in
Successful Story of a Bright Girl , about a country girl falling for a
big-city business type, Jang Na-ra co-starred in the Chinese
drama My Bratty Princess with Taiwanese actor Alec Su. Its
sequel,My Bratty Princess 2, featured another Korean actress,
Chae Rim, who hit it big inAll About Eve, in which two news
reporters vie for a top spot in the network they both work for.
Alongside Jang Hyuk, who gained popularity withIntroducing My
Girlfriend, Chae Rim is scheduled to star in the upcoming
Chinese remake ofAll About Eve.
From Hong Kong, hallyu has also spread throughout
Southeast Asia. Even Myanmar, a country not known for its
cultural openness, has fallen for the charms of Korean enter-
tainment, first with Winter Sonata and nowDae Jang Geum
and a comedy gangster flickMarrying the Mafia. In cracking
Southeast Asian markets, Hong Kong has proved a crucialconduit. Full House, to take one example, garnered a 52
percent rating in Hong Kong with 63 percent in Thailand,
42.3 percent in the Philippines and an astonishing 78 percent
rating in Indonesia.
Today, proving their remarkably adaptable appeal, hallyu
Kim Tae-hee, who starred in the hit showIris (opposite). Actors Lee Jun-ki,
heroine Nam Sang-mi and Jung Kyung-ho star in Time Between Dog andWolf(above, from left). Stills from the drama Iris (below left, right). A scene
from the drama Boys Over Flowers (bottom).
Taewon
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En
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);Victory
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(oppos
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bo
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shows have started creeping into Central Asia, Africa and even
the Muslim world. Slushy hitWinter Sonata aired in Egypt in
2004, while Tunisia has developed a taste for Korean histori-
cal dramas such asJamyeonggo. In 2007, after joining the long
list of countries to fall for Dae Jang Geum, Iran became hooked
onJumong, which recorded a 60 percent audience share.
Uzbek viewers sawPainter of the Wind; Mongolians watched
Temptation of a Wife. And the recently finishedPersonal
Preference, in which a straight man pretends to be gay in order
to room with the female lead, is being exported to Central and
South America, Africa, and the Middle East.
THE INTERNATIONAL WAVE So how is the original market for
hallyu, Japan, faring now? Though many believe the Korean
wave petered out afterWinter Sonata and Dae Jang Geum, the
reality is that, though not on the phenomenal scale of those two
shows, a string of Korean shows continue to do well there
today. Having failed to lure audiences with dramas that mim-
icked the formula of the big hits, Korean TV producers are
finding that homegrown successes are continuing to pull in
Japanese viewers. Romantic comedyMy Lovely Sam Soon, a
huge success in Korea, took a 5.2 percent share in the highly
fragmented Japanese market (where even 6 percent is
rare), and historical dramasYi San and Dae Jo Yeongalso
struck a big chord with Japanese viewers.
At home, the number of Korean dramas is rising
steadily. From November 2008 to June 2009, the
number of such shows increased from 27 to 42,
with each channel raising its own quota of
dramas from two to six. And with greater volume
has come greater diversity. AfterWinter Sonata
inspired a cult-like following among women
throughout Asia, Korean producers saturated the
market with sentimental romances with increasing-
ly unfeasible plots. Now, however, subject matter
includes noir (Time Between Dog and Wolf), family
(Brilliant Legacy), history (Jumong) and even private
educational institutes (Boys Over Flowers). By diversify-
ing their output into fast-paced, more action-oriented
historical series, producers have managed to lure male
viewers into what was once an almost entirely female
preserve and now, viewers are getting younger, too.
Iris is a prime example of how hallyu dramas havechanged. On April 21, the espionage thriller was the first
Korean drama to be aired on Japanese TV in the 9pm
golden hour, with the first two episodes (broadcast
consecutively) receiving a 10.1 percent overall audience share,
a huge number by Japanese standards.
Protagonist Lee Seung-gi from Brilliant Legacy(above). Iriss stars Lee So-
yeon, Kim Tae-hee and TOP (below, right). A still from Boys Over Flowers(opposite top). A scene from Personal Preference (opposite bottom).
y
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boundaries within Asia, the next stepping stone for hallyu has
become the global market. Korean actors and actresses are
starring in Chinese and Japanese dramas, and Korean
directors and authors are working with Chinese and Japanese
actors and actresses. Capital is no longer limited by national
boundaries, and TV and movie moguls are searching for new
investments throughout the region.
As hallyu aims to consolidate its success in Asia, producers
recognize that they, too, have to change. Though not created
specifically with the international market in mind,Dae Jang
Geum is perhaps the best example of how Korean dramas can
succeed across borders: by identifying universal themes that
can appeal to viewers everywhere, and can be tweaked to
speak to their own lives.
TODAY EUROPE, TOMORROW HOLLYWOOD The international-
ization of Korean TV dramas is every bit as evident in movies.
In China, the list of Korean stars appearing in local productions
includes Song Hye-kyo in Wong Kar-waisThe Grand Master,
Jun Ji-hyun inSnow Flower and the Secret Fan, and Kim Hee-
sun in the historical movieCivil Wars. And while the focus for
hallyu in Southeast Asia undoubtedly remains TV dramas, in
other markets, notably Europe, it is the movies that are catch-
ing the critics eyes.
Among the films on show at this years Cannes Film Festival
was Im Sang-soosThe Housemaid, a remake of a cult Korean
classic from the 1960s. Meanwhile, Lee Chang-dongsPoetry
received great acclaim and went on to win the award for best
screenplay. Another Korean movie Hong Sang-soosHa Ha Ha
received the top prize in the Un Certain Regard category.
While Cannes itself was, because of Europes ongoing
economic problems, a somewhat dampened affair, Korean
films enjoyed their most successful showing yet. BesidesThe
Housemaids tally of 15 countries, Poetryand Lee Joon-iks
Blades of Blood (which was not officially on show) were sold to
four countries apiece. In addition, Kim Ji-woon, ofThe Good,
The Bad, The Weird fame, sold his latest work, I Saw the Devil,
to French distributor ARP. Though still unfinished, the movie is
receiving a lot of attention thanks to its stellar cast, which
includes Lee Byung-hun andOldboystar Choi Min-sik.
As seen at Cannes, Korean movies are slowly but surely
gaining ground in Europe. But what of the movie Holy Grail,
Hollywood? So far, hallyu has had considerably less successthere. Yet two top stars, Rain and Lee Byung-hun, were cast in
big-budget movies respectivelyNinja Assassin and G.I. Joe:
The Rise of Cobra and with the success hallyu continues to
enjoy elsewhere, who would bet against a Korean-directed
Hollywood film hitting it big in the next 10 years?Mirov
ision
Sponge
En
terta
inmen
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p);Mirov
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(middlerig
ht);
Un
ikorea
(middleleft
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Nor were ratings the sole triumph forIris. With much of the
production and marketing duties shared with TBS,Iris starredLee Byung-hun, one of Koreas biggest stars, and TOP, a singer
with popular K-pop group Big Bang, and featured a soundtrack
by Shin Seung-hun, a fast-rising Korean star in Japan. By
bringing such big and varied stars on board,Iris aimed for,
and got, not just viewers in their 30s and older, but a younger
demographic as well.
As a joint production with Japan,Iris also symbolized hallyus
growing role as a truly pan-Asian phenomenon. From being
made entirely in Korea, and then viewed in Japan and China,
newer productions are often harnessing the strengths of all
three countries. Kim Hyoo-jong, dean of the Graduate School of
Arts Management at Chugye University for the Arts, defines the
first phase of hallyu as the made in era, the next phase as
the made by era (when the focus will be on the production
company), and the current phase as the made for era, where
the emphasis is on targeting groups that can receive the mostvalue and enjoyment.
Hallyu has become an industry where content is no longer
restricted by national boundaries. Chinas vast market, Japans
marketing skills and Koreas excellence in production are now
combined to produce a single product. Having expanded its
Jeon Do-yeon, who previously won the best female actress award at Cannes
Film Festival in 2007, recently starred the film The Housemaid(above). A
scene from The Housemaid(below).
A scene from the movie Ha Ha Ha,which starred Moon So-ri and Kim Sang-
gyeong the film received the top prize at this years Cannes Film Festival
(top). Director ofPoetryLee Chang-dong and The Housemaids director Im
Sang-soo (above, from left). Poetrys heroine Yoon Jeong-hee (below).
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These are heady days for Koreas historical
dramas. Now shown around the world, the
genres road to success began back in
2004 with the mega-hit Dae Jang Geum,
which told the story of a female physician in
a Joseon Dynasty. As of June 2010, the
show has been broadcast in 60 countries
worldwide, enjoying phenomenal success as
far afield as Japan, Taiwan and Iran. In
India, so taken was one prisoner with the
show that he penned an open letter to
Korea saying, I have found new hope in life
through watchingDae Jang Geum.
In bringing Korean culture into households
around the world,Dae Jang Geum has raised
Koreas profile enormously, while also bringing
tangible financial benefits to the country. The
shows heavy focus on food sparked a craze
for such dishes asbibimbap, with Korean
restaurants even in New York reporting a
spike in interest in the dish. In addition, the
show sparked a wave of spin-offs and
merchandising, in everything from tourism to
musicals to computer game characters.
More recently, the historical dramas
Jumong, Yi San, The Kingdom of the Winds
and Emperor of the Sea have raisedawareness of Koreas history and culture
while gripping viewers worldwide. Calling
them cultural ambassadors, one member
of the production staff at Korean TV network
MBC says: Although historical dramas need to be interesting,
they must also accurately depict Korean history. If our histori-
cal dramas are not accurate, they could show foreigners a
distorted picture of Korean history.
THE REAL PICTURE Ever since the success ofDae Jang Geum,
Korean pop culture has used the countrys history both to feed
the overseas demand for hallyu and to make domestic audiences
look at their past anew. One notable instance of this has been in
the changing depiction of women, of whom the determined
protagonist ofDae Jang Geum is only the most notable example.
While conventional wisdom has it that Korean women werealways and everywhere suppressed by dominant men, historical
dramas have shown a more nuanced picture, depicting the lives
of women who wielded genuine power in historical Korea.
Take, for example, MBC historical dramaQueen Seondeok.
Set in Koreas distant past, the show depicts the conspiracies
and feuds that eventually saw Seonduk
become Koreas first queen. A big success
in Korea, the series has also been exported
to 14 countries around the world.
In Dong Yi, also on MBC, Consort Choi,
though born to the lowest echelons of
Korean society, mothers the man who goes
on to become Joseon Dynasty monarch
Yeongjo. Dong Yiwas contracted for export
to Japan and Thailand for US$ 6 million
even before the drama was aired in Korea,
says a crew member working on the show.
Buyers are growing tired of male dominated
historical dramas, and are increasingly fasci-
nated by historical stories about women.
Some historical dramas also attempt to
cover aspects of Korean history that had previ-
ously been neglected.Kim Soo Ro delves into
largely forgotten Gaya civilization, whileDae Jo
Yeongserves as a source of information on
Koreas ancient Balhae civilization.
WHY SO POPULAR Just as we think of
pyramids and the Sphinx when Egypt is
mentioned, and Ancient Greece brings to
mind mythology, in like manner Korean
historical dramas are providing a compellinghistorical context for the country Korea is
today. These intriguing storylines and the
culture they convey are one of the most
precious gifts left to us by our forefathers,
and have a universal appeal that can be enjoyed by foreigners
as much as by Koreans.
And the benefits are more than just a higher profile for Korean
culture. According to the Study of the Economic Value of the
Korean Wave (Hallyu), published in 2005 by the International
Trade Research Center of the Korea International Trade
Association, in 2004, the yearDae Jang Geum was released,
hallyu generated income of US$ 1.87 billion overseas.
Clearly, a well-made depiction of Korean culture can bring
great economic benefits, too. But the intangible benefits are as
valuable, providing Korea with a chance to display the vibrancy
of its culture, lifestyle and history to the wider world. Koreacurrently may not make blockbuster movies likeTransformers
or Iron Man, a Korean cultural critic recently noted. But
Korea definately has a distinct culture that nobody else
possesses. This unique aspect is distilled and displayed in
Korean historical dramas.
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MBC
KBS
(top
);MBC
(bo
ttom
)
A still from the TVdrama Kim Soo Ro (oppo-
site). A scene from the drama The Kingdom
of the Winds, starred Song Il-gook (top). Kim
Soo Ros hero Ji Sung (above).
LEARNING FROM THE PASTAs Sex and the Cityfans would surely acknowledge, the shows setting and the lifestyle ofits main characters are as appealing as its plotlines. Indeed, rightly or wrongly, the show
is great insight into how New Yorkers live for many viewers. In much the same way,various hallyu productions are providing a window into the lives and culture of Koreans.And nowhere is this truer than with one of its most popular exports: historical dramas.
by Ahn Jin-yong
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COVER STORY
HALLYUS BIG BANGSome of hallyus biggest stars have a busy six months ahead. Having conquered
Southeast Asia and, in some cases, gone further afield, some of the biggest names inKorean entertainment including Rain, Song Seung-hun,Kwon Sang-woo and So Ji-sub are set to return to the big and small screens. In this big hallyu showdown, who
will be the last man (or woman) standing? by Ahn Jin-yong
After a long absence as he focused on becoming a global star,
Rain will be back on Korean TV screens in this years October
with a new miniseries,Fugitive. Five years have passed since
the Ninja Assassin stars last TV outing, so expectations among
his fans are reaching a fever pitch.
Making his small-screen debut in 2004sFull House, Rain
has consolidated his Asia-wide appeal in the years since with
a string of pop hits and, more recently, movie roles. In the new
series, Rain will be working with producer Kwak Jung-hwan and
writer Chun Sung-il, who teamed up to a successful effect in
last years drama Chuno. Fan boards are also aswirl with
rumors linking Lee Na-young, star of Korea-Japan co-production
Dream and hit drama Island, with the lead role opposite Rain.
As comebacks go, this one could be really special.
STARS, RIVALS, FRIENDS Song Seung-hun, famous for the
dramasAutumn in My Heart and Summer Scent, and Kwon
Sang-woo, the milky-skinned star ofStairway to Heaven, have a
fair bit in common. They are both 33. They are very close
friends. And in the second half of 2010, they are preparing to
battle it out for the affections of hallyu fans everywhere.
An award winner for his star turn in the drama seriesEast of
Eden, Song is set to appear inMy Princess, from the team at
Curtain Call Producers. Though neither the network nor the
director have yet been confirmed, Song will star opposite one
of Koreas hottest female stars, Kim Tae-hee, fresh from her
success in the smash hit thriller seriesIris. Kim Eun-sook,
who wrote Lovers in Paris and On Air, will write the script, says
a member of the production team. With Song Seung-hun and
Kim Tae-hee in this drama, were all expecting big things, both
inside and outside Korea.
Also set to make Korean TV screens sizzle is Kwon Sang-
woo, who will return inThe Substitute this October. Kwon willappear alongside Ko Hyun-jung, who starred as Mishil in last
years historical dramaQueen Seondeok, and Ko Hyun-jung,
who will play Koreas first female president.
Much is being made of the potential on-screen chemistry
between Kwon and Ko, whose star is on the rise after her
appearance inQueen Seondeok. Kwon also returned to the big
screen, with an appearance in Lee Jae-hans71-Into the Fire.
MADE OF KOREAN MATERIALS So Ji-sub, who last year went
to Japan to promote his hit seriesCain and Abel, is starring in
a new drama. To mark his return, So choseRoad Number One,
a drama series about the Korean War that air in the memory of
60th year of the Korean War, which is on the air nowadays.
A reference to National Highway No 1, the main artery
connecting North and South Korea during the war,Road
Number One looks at the loves and friendships that are forged
during the war. So Ji-sub plays Lee Jang-woo, a passionate
South Korean officer born to a poor farming family, who finally
overcomes enormous hardship and danger by sheer instinct
and force of will.
Starting broadcast on June 25,Road Number One also stars
Kim Ha-neul, Yoon Kye-sang, Choi Min-soo and Son Chang-min.
A member of the crew says: Road Number One is not only an
engrossing series, it is also an opportunity to reflect on the
Korean War. By casting So Ji-sub in the lead role, the show is
sure to convey the full emotional impact of the war to his
foreign fans too.
Meanwhile, Park Yong-ha, star ofWinter Sonata and On Air,
is to star in Love Song, a remake drama of the Chinese movie
ofSweet Sweet Love. Park is also a famous singer, especially
in Japan, where he has released 10 albums and even held a
concert at Nippon Budokan, one of the countrys most famousconcert halls. By remaking what was a worldwide hit when it
was released in 1997,Sweet Sweet Love, which originally
starred Leon Lai and Maggie Cheung, has the advantage of a
familiar and much-loved story. Parks Japanese fans and the
legions of Chinese viewers who so loved the original are sure
to make the new version,Love Song, a big hit.
Also set for the Korean remake treatment isIt Started With
a Kiss, a hit drama series from Taiwan that was itself based on
a bestselling Japanese comic book. Kim Hyeon-jung, from K-
pop idol group SS501, and Shim Chang-min, from rival group
TVQX, or Dong Bang Shin Gi, are rumored to be playing the
lead roles in the Korean version, which is scheduled to air in
the second half of 2010. With both Kim and Shim already big
pop stars in Korea and throughout Asia, producers are
confident that It Started With a Kiss will be a big hit with
their younger fans.With so many big names returning, the remaining half of
2010 is truly shaping up to be a war of the stars, says a
source at Korean TV network MBC. This will also become a
battle amongst the three main TV channels. The whole tide of
hallyu could change this year.DSPMe
dia(top
);MBC
Kim Hyeon-jung is rumored to be playing the lead roles in upcoming drama,
It Started With a Kiss (above). So Ji-sub (below) and Kim Ha-neul (bottom)
are currently starring in the showRoad Number One.
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Shin Gyeong-suk
I met Shin Gyeong-suk in early June,with her new novel,
A Phone Rings for Me Somewhere, was relishing its third
straight week on the top of the bestseller lists.It was her
second bestseller in a row following Take Care of My Mother,
which sold more than a million copies and was turned into a
successful play.I first thanked Shin for taking time off from
her busy schedule and asked her how she is handling her
countless obligations.In a hoarse whisper, Shin responded
that she was almost lost her voice following a book signing
last week.She also said, however,that she could really feel the
affection from her readers, and that no matter how busy shegot, she always felt content and happy.
For several reasons,A Phone Rings for Me Somewhere is a
significant work for Shin. For one thing,it was the first time
she had posted drafts of her work online,inviting readers to
comment as she progressed. For a conventional writer, I
remarked that exposing her work to the rough and tumble of
the Internet world must had been quite a risk. But Shin
recalled the experience as being more refreshing and fun
than Id expected.
Yes,the writing was continuing online,but I simply kept
meeting the deadline the way I always have, and so I wasnt in
any sort of rush,Shin said. And then there was the fun part
of seeing readerscomments to my writing in real time.It was
as if the monitor was alive.
Each part of Shins serial attracted 60 to 100 comments,mostly written by fans who had visited her website every day.
Reeling offsome of the more memorable user IDs she
encountered, she said that over the six months it had taken
her to write the whole book,h er readersfeedback were a
Shin Gyeong-suks novels are so delicate and welcoming,they invariably remindyou of the low hills curving the bends of a countryside road or of a gently flowingstream. The wind may blow, cold rain may pour, a wild storm may pass through,
but through it all, Shins books retain a touching faith in human nature. This isthe consistency that keeps Shins novels together. by Oh Kyong-yon | photographs by Park Jeong-roh
PEN & BRUSH
WRITINGWITHOUTBORDERS
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major source of encouragement and inspiration.
But not all parts of her story were so warmly received.Early
on, when she included some intense scenes about the deaths
of the main characters,some readers responded they were
shocked and heartbroken.Since the stories were posted at
10am,a relatively early hour,Shin said,I decided not to
reveal the more harrowing episodes,and put them directly
in the book.
Another reason whyA Phone Rings for Me Somewhere is so
special to Shin is that it gave her the chance to write about the
vagaries of youth.French novelist Le Clzio said the homeof the writer is the mother tongue,said Shin. As a Korean
writer,I d long harbored ambitions of writing a beautiful and
sophisticated Korean-language novel about youth.It finally
came true.Just as she had spent her youth reading Andr
Gide and Hermann Hesse,Shin said that she hoped her
works would become the same kind of coming-of-age works
that can inspire the Korean youth of today.
THE UNIVERSAL None of this means, however,that Shins
themes work only in Korean.The million-selling Take Care of
My Motherhas been sold to 19 countries throughout North
America, Europe and Asia,while other novels have been
translated into Chinese,French and Japanese.Shin said that
regarding Take Care of My Mother, the editor at her US
publisher had shocked her by expressing virtually the same
opinions on it as her Korean publisher had.Regardless of
nationality,people seem to share universal feelings and
existential values, Shin said.
[My] novels arent confined to certain cultural areas,
but deal with fundamental tales,she added, and that way,
anyone from any country can really relate to them.Because
of this,Shin said,foreign readers of her work had been ableto absorb the oddities of Korean culture,rather than just
viewing it as alien.We often categorize literature by the
country of the writers origin,such as Korean literature,
Japanese literature, or French literature,sh e said,but I
actually think theres no boundary to literature itself.
As a huge fan offoreign literature, Shin said she dearly
hoped that Korean novels,definitely including her own,
would gain more readership overseas.And in her work,
references to foreign culture abound: In one example,at the
end ofTake Care of My Mother, the Pieta (Jesus in the arms
of Mother Mary),in St. Peters Basilica in Vatican City,is
LA CHAMBRE SOLITAIRE(AN ISOLATED ROOM)> Language French
> Publisher Philippe Picquier (France, Paris)
> Published 2008
Shin Gyeong-suks autobiographical novel is
based on her own experiences from the age of
16 to 20. The protagonist moves to Seoul after
growing up on a farm, and attends night school after spending all
day at work. The book is about an aspiring writers interactions
with the people she meets while working. In calm prose, Shin
offers a sometimes unflinching account of painful memories, usingthe symbolic space that is an isolated room.
VERSAMMELTE LICHTER(GATHERED LIGHT)> Language German
> Publisher Pendragon (Bielefeld, Germany)
> Published 2002
Part of a collection of modern Korean short
stories, Versammelte Lichteris a story about
what happens after a novelist publishes in a newspaper a rather
uncomfortable incident between her father and her aunt. In an
offbeat, witty manner, Shin relates parts of the tale as if it were
a newspaper article.
(SOME DISAPPEARANCE)> Language Japanese
> Publisher Kinokuniya (Tokyo, Japan)> Published 1997
Actually a collection of Shins short stories, the
title work depicts the painful aftermath of a devas-
tated family. In it, a son dies mysteriously while
serving in his military duty, an event that sends his mother insane.
After she too dies, the father and the daughter must learn how to
come to terms with the loss and move on.
symbolically overlapped with the scene of the motherin the
arms of her own mother. In another,A Phone Rings for Me
Somewhere contains a significant reference to St.Christopher
from the Western myth.
LITTLE GUYS Saying she has never really felt attracted to
heroes, Shin characterized most ofher protagonists as little
guys, the ordinary, everyday people who live with the pain of
loss. Shins empathy with anti-heroescan be found in her
novel Leejin, a historical work about a real-life 19th-century
character named Yi Sim who moved from Korea to Paris.Yi Sim had been completely forgotten amid historical
events, such as the modernization at the end of the Joseon
Dynasty and the introduction offeudalism in modern
France,Shin said, adding that her passion for a character
who had faded into insignificance more than 100 years p revi-
ously had pushed her to try a new genre of writing.I had
personally become more introverted after experiencing some
of the difficulties ofmoving from the countryside to a big
city,so I could really relate to the identity crisis and loneliness
that Yi Sim must have faced.
This empathy and affection for her characters is a trait
found in much ofShins work. But back when she began her
literary career, aged just 22,Shin admited to having been a
very different writer.Early on, I paid more attention to
prose. I wanted the readers to know, no matter which page
they were reading, that this is a Shin Gyeong-suk novel,she said.But after two decades as a novelist,I feel liberated
from that obsession.My focus has definitely shifted to the
characters.
In coming up with ideas for her stories, Shin said she was
inspired by random words she reads somewhere, newspaper
articles, or just little things she comes across in her everyday
life. But nothing,she said, inspired her like people them-
selves, and the endless shades of opinion she had about the
many fascinating characters she met.
With Shin now twenty years into her career,what, I asked
her,d id the novel mean to her?
To me, a novel is the world, a way of communication,and
everything that I am.A ll of my novels start from within.The
characters words and anecdotes all come out through me,
and that really is the inevitable outcome.But, she added,
while she was the conduit for the characters, each of themended up weaving his or her own story as the book unfolded.
So when the book was complete, the people in it represented
no more than 10 percent of her.
She citedAn Isolated Room as an example.Th ough it was
considered one ofher most autobiographical works,Shin said
she was actually interested in the other characters,and not
the storyteller. I wanted to write about my own experience
from the 1980s,and as much as I could, I wanted to focus on
these other, forgotten characters who suffered just as much,
rather than on the narrator, who reflected me.I want people
to pay more attention to other characters than to my voice.
Her greatest wish was for her novels to be seen as guidinghands,Shin said: We forget that people are valuable in their
own way and that each one of us is as unique as a shining
star.I want to be able to help people, and sometimes,I
wanted to be helped by people.
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PEOPLE
A TRUEKOREAN
In what remains one of the mosthomogeneousmodern countries,
Lee Charm is a foreigner to everylocal he encounters. But talkingwith him even for a short whilereveals a depth of knowledgeabout Korea and its culture thatwould put a lot of locals toshame. Completely fluent inKorean, German-born LeeCharm is the first naturalizedKorean to hold a high officialpost in his case, the presiden-cy of the Korea TourismOrganization. And in keepingwith his passion for Koreantourist spots, KOREA met upwith him in the woods ofMagoksa Temple in Gongju,Chungcheongnam-do Province.by Oh Kyong-yon | photographs by Kim Nam-heon
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one of his favorite destinations is the hometown of the
Donguibogam (an ancient Korean medical tome): Sancheong in
Gyeongsangnam-do Province. Besides its medical connections,
Sancheong is also home to a royal palace that has two major
claims to fame: During the Joseon Dynasty (1392-1910), the
national seal was made there; and within its walls, it has a
turtle-shaped rock that is renowned for containing the
strongest gi in Korea legend has it that if you touch the
rock, something good will happen to you.
Lee defines Korea as a country of mystical energy, gi; of
emotional energy, jeong; and of cheerful energy, heung. To
Lee, the ineffable but ever-present gi was a key reason for
Koreas startling progress after the Korean War. Creating
such a fun atmosphere by getting along with each other, just
like the group cheering culture during the World Cup, is due to
Koreas unique energy, heung, he adds, warming to his
theme. In other countries, you often have to pay for water
when youre in restaurants, but in Korea, you experience a
warm human touch, by getting water and even side dishes for
free, which shows the jeong of Koreans. With his Caucasianappearance and his towering frame, Lee Charm may look every
inch the stranger in a foreign land. But with the deep affection
and knowledge he embodies toward his adopted home, it is
hard to imagine anyone more truly Korean.
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Lee Charm takes a walk with a monk and others (top). Magoksa Temple is a histori-
cal site, originally built in AD640 during the Shilla era (above left). Some colorful
Dasik(Korean traditional pressed sweets) is seen (above right).
Temple stay participants experience a time of Seon [Korean form of Zen] (top). Lee
enjoys taking pictures and updating his blog about travel (above).
Lee Charm starts his day early. Most mornings, he attends
meetings from 7 to 7:30am or gives academic lectures. At
around 9am he attends a board meeting to discuss major
issues affecting the various departments he is involved with.
The rest of the morning and the entire afternoon are a blizzard
of talks with government ministry personnel, tourism events
and business meetings. Much of his daily 24 hours, then, is
packedwith negotiations and businessdealings. But somehow,
the industrious president of the Korea Tourism Organization
(KTO) finds time to squeeze in domestic and overseas
business trips as well.
Since his appointment to the KTO in August 2009, Lee says
he has spent less than 10 days on entirely personal affairs
prompting not unreasonable claims that he is a workaholic.
But its something I enjoy doing, he says, so I dont really
feel like the work is exhausting. When I do have some spare
time, I go mountain climbing or take a walk with my purebred
Jindo dog. Something else he does in his precious spare time
is update his blog (http://blog.naver.com/charmlee21)
which, perhaps inevitably, contains news of his work and
travels, too. Even as we wander around Magoksa Temple,
where the interview takes place, Lee is constantly stopping to
take pictures that will make their way onto his blog. I would
really love to take better photos with a DSLR camera, he says
with a smile, but because of difficulties in carrying it, I have to
settle for a compact digital camera. Too bad!
DISCOVERING SEON Lees reason for traveling to Magoksa is
to participate in the G-20 Templestay Experience, one of a
series of events prepared for representatives of countries tak-
ing part in the G-20 Summit in Korea later this year. Asked why
he chose a templestay to represent Koreas tourist attractions,
which requires participants to stay in the Korean countryside
for two days, Lee says, Korean Buddhist culture is not only a
religious matter; its also of a general concept that includes
meditating, taking part in the tea ceremony and so on.
Buddhist temples are usually located within nature, in
mountains or near rivers. Meditating in these places can bring
you closer to nature and help you discover your true self.
From the aspect ofPungsu-jiri[Koreas geomancy or feng
shui], he continues, with all the assurance of a true master,
Magoksa has perfect form and shape. The location of the
temple is also stable, he adds, with the Magok stream running
in an S shape in the middle of the precincts of the temple.
Mentioning that this is his
third templestay, Lee looks
perfectly at ease as he takes
part in barugongyang (the
Buddhist meal ritual), cultural
activities, and even the pre-
dawn Buddhist service.
Arriving at the state ofSeon
through meditation without any
formalities is always a new,magical experience, Lee says,
referring to the Korean form of
Zen. Feeling that your mind
and body are at peace is not a
coincidence of any kind; its the result of harmony between the
mountains and the water. From 2011, he says, the KTO will
feature a templestay program that will heal the mind and body
by using the ancient Eastern life-force, known in Korean as gi.
ALWAYS DIFFERENT, ALWAYS THE SAME Born in Bad
Kreuznach in Germany, the 196cm-tall Lee became a natural-
ized Korean citizen at the relatively young age of 32. Working
variously as an educator, broadcaster, actor, writer and
entrepreneur in Korea, Lee became a truly public figure with
his ascent to the presidency of the KTO. Promoting a
naturalized citizen to the top spot in a public organization
the first time this had happened in Korea was widely hailed
as an innovative, even daring move, especially in a country
that still has such a small foreign population.
A lot of people helped me, so it wasnt that tough, Lee
says. I think, through this position, the Korean tourism
industry gave me a chance to really help develop this field in
this age of internationalization. I do feel a deep sense of
responsibility because I am the first non-Korean born person
to hold such a post, but I will do my very best so that there
will be more people like me in Korea.
In Korean food, the elements of Yin and Yang and the Five
Elements mentioned in Eastern philosophy exist, so you can
experience five different tastes: bitterness, spiciness, sweet-
ness, sourness and saltiness, Lee explains. To illustrate his
point, Lee talks about a promotional event that he attended
during a business trip to Germany earlier this year. To test
their level of gi, or chi, before and after eating Korean cuisine,
participants underwent what is known as the Bi-Digital O-Ring
Test (BDORT), in which someone forms an O shape with his or
her fingers and another person tries to pry them open. After
eating, all the participants fingers became considerably harder
to force open, a fact that proponents put down to increases in
gi prompted by Korean food.
Korean food creates energy, Lee says. Not only is it tasty,
it has a philosophy that can appeal to people all over the
world. Lees personal favorite is bibimbap, a concoction of
boiled rice and vegetables that Lee says can transform itself
endlessly by adding ingredients unique to different parts of
Korea, or even different parts of the world. Much like pizza,
bibimbap can thus be customized to local tastes, without ever
losing its basic identity. There are a lot of vegetables in
bibimbap, so youre eating a lot of fiber. When I eat it, it feelslike Im consuming natures energy.
HIGH ENERGY Even before becoming head of the KTO, Lee
was well known as a big fan of traveling around Korea. Today,
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TRAVEL
ONLY ON
JEJUJeju, off Koreas southern coast, is an island of peace,where welcoming people live surrounded byturquoise seas and turtle-shaped hills. On the path-ways connecting the outskirts of the island,hikerswander at leisure,stopping to see some of Jejusremarkable natural sights an oreum (parasiticvolcano), perhaps, or a beautiful waterfall. On Jeju,travelers discover all the bounty of nature, and allthe charms of Korean hospitality, too. by Chung Dong-muk
A beautiful birds eye view of Jeju I sland.
JejuSpecialSelf-GoverningProvince
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A breathtaking view of oreum (parasitic volcano) is seen it is said that there are
around 360 oreum in Jeju Island.
Haenyeo, a female diver, is one of the symbols of Jeju (top). There is a great amount
of marine life thriving in Jejus ocean (middle). Yongcheongul is a limestone cave
that holds the Lake in a Thousand, one of UNESCO World Heritage sites (bottom).
With the day breaking and light starting to illuminate my small
room, I rise and prepare for a journey on the road. It is the
second day of what has been my longest walk for years. My
feet are swollen, my body fatigued, yet in my mind, I am ready
to conquer Everest Mountain.
The Olle trail that circles Jeju Island along the beach is now
the number one itinerary for visitors to the island. I must
confess to having been a little bit mystified by the appeal of
this renowned walkway it is, ultimately, only a path. But
when I actually started walking it, along with a group of youth
who happened to be going the same way, I started to realize
just what made it so special.
Appreciating the marvelous scenery of Jeju, at the leisurely
pace it warrants, is an experience that no amount of descrip-
tion will quite do justice to. It is, also, the perfect place torediscover the virtue of the good old-fashioned stroll. Today,
after all, people walk perhaps less than ever before. We sit in
offices, we sit in cars. We walk in a month a similar distance
to what our grandparents perhaps covered in a day. As a
result, we gain weight and suffer all sorts of niggly back pains
and sedentary diseases. In sum, much of our ill health these
days arises from not walking the walk.
But even for the most walking averse, Jejus Olle trail is the
perfect place to rediscover your inner hiker. While walking
around much of Seoul can be just as dull as jogging on a
treadmill, on Jejus Olle, you are surrounded by beaches on
one side and the quaint beauty of the islands oreum on the
other. The air is invigorating, the slopes gentle. You will pass
traditional little houses and horses grazing in fields. Every step
brings a new horizon and the time simply melts away.
I intend to make a new start in my life, bubbles 23-year-
old Jin Min-hee, who has come here from Incheon with some
friends. I am walking to clean up my past and formulate
plans for the future. Its been 11 days since I came to Jejuand Ive only completed six courses. I am going to walk until
Ive done them all.
As of June 2010, the Jeju Olle numbered 16 courses, all
starting from the east side of the island in Siheung-ri,
Seongsan-eup, and leading to the northwest point of
Gwangryeong-ri town office at Aewol-eup. Each course runs
about 15-20 kilometers and takes between five and seven
hours to complete.
A NATURAL ATTRACTION Despite falling levels of exercise,
there has been a growing trend toward these therapeutic trips,
in which earthly cares are extinguished through a long walk (or
some other physical activities) and plenty of sweat. Jeju is
tailor-made for this kind of vacation, offering both an astonish-
ing natural bounty and plenty of opportunity to relax, too.
Blessed with a temperate marine climate, Jeju also has an
abundance of flora never seen on the mainland. Rare species
such crinums and angraecums, and broadleaf trees like silver
magnolia, Korean fir, and Washington Palm create a wonderful
atmosphere, with few parallels anywhere in Northeast Asia.
The ocean that dances around Jejus coast is also a huge
draw for visitors. Formed by the eruption of an underwater
volcano some 1.2 million years ago, Jeju also has lovely
beaches, covered in silky sands and lined by turquoise
waters. To preserve this sublime beauty, the Korean govern-
ment has designated Jeju a Special Autonomous Province,
with the power to keep its nature pristine for the reams of
tourists who visit.
The wonders of Jeju continue over at Manjanggul, the
longest lava tube in Jeju. Measuring 7,416 meters, the cave
system came into being approximately 300,000 years ago
when lava overflowed from the crater of Mount Hallasan, now
Jejus biggest mountain, toward the sea. The insides are like
an underground palace. Here and there, stone pillars, stalac-
tites, flowstones and boulders create stunning geological
artworks. Of particular note is the Stone Turtle, an intriguing
rock that resembles both a turtle and Jeju Island itself.
Fascinating as it is, Manjanggul is in fact only one of a
series of lava tubes on Jeju, all of which have been collectively
designated a UNESCO World Heritage site. I have been to
several countries around the globe but I have never seen such
a grand cave, says Jose, a traveler from Spain who is visiting
with his family. To be honest I did not expect much when I
first came here but it is just amazing. It made me completely
rethink my opinion of Korea.
For a further glimpse of what makes Jeju unique, many visi-
tors head to the Hansupul Haenyeo School in Hallim-eup,
where the islands famed female deep-sea divers, haenyeo,learn their trade. Every year for the four months from May to
August, a program nurturing new haenyeo takes place here,
and even if you arent a full student you can take part in a one-
day program. Equip yourself for free with a diving suit, gogglesJejuSpecialSelf-Gov
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and tewak (styrofoam that keeps you afloat) but no oxygen
tanks or other modern scuba gear and you too will be ready
to see Jeju as its hardy diving fisherwomen do.
There is nothing quite like diving and plucking conch, sea
squirt and agar with your own hands. This is the way haenyeo
live, and have lived for generations, scouring the seabed for
fish and shellfish and making a living from their catch. As it is
such a dangerous trade, the haenyeo must be intimately famil-
iar with the climate, currents, wind and tides. It is knowledge
they gather through a lifetime of experience, and one that
keeps some of them diving as late as into their 60s.
Though you can see haenyeo at many of the villages dotting
Jejus coast, the best place to watch them in action is Udo
Island, just to Jejus east. To get to Udo, you can take a 10-
minute boat ride from Seongsanpo port at Seongsan-eup
whose Seongsan Ilchulbong tuff cone is also designated a
UNESCO World Heritage. Udo is also home to an Olle course,
and cycling it is a great way to see the island (buses are also
available for the foot sore).
In contrast to their sometimes prickly sisters on Jeju proper,
the haenyeo on Udo are usually more welcoming, as they still
dont meet too many people from beyond their island. Dressed
in black diving suits with tewak and mangsari (nets to hold
their catch) attached to their sides, several dozen village
ladies troop out to the ocean every day. This is something
you simply cant see anywhere else in the world.
If luck is with you, and you encounter them on the way back,
you might even get to sample some of their fresh abalones
and conch. While youre on Udo, be sure to also climb
Udobong peak and, for the more adventurous, ride a horse
through one of the fields. When youre done with all that
activity, there is another enticing way to while away an hour
or two besides sitting on a bench with a cup of tea, thats by
watching the majestic sight of Seongsan Ilchulbong and the
surrounding oceans.
AN ISLAND OF PEACE To appreciate nature on Jeju is to enjoy
an extraordinary peace of mind. By offering a retreat from the
drudgery of city life, Koreas biggest island invigorates all who
visit not least the world leaders who have come here during
the several summits that Korea has hosted on Jeju.
In recent years, Jeju has in fact become an increasingly
important venue for top events hosted by the Korean govern-
ment. Opened in March 2003 as the Jungmun Tourist ResortComplex, International Convention Center Jeju has hosted
major international events such as the 37th Annual Meeting of
the Board of Governors of the Asian Development Bank in
2004, the 58th Session of the World Health Organization
Regional Committee for the Western Pacific in 2007. Ensuring
the building is in tune with its surroundings, the grounds
include pillar-shaped waterfalls, grass fields planted with
indigenous Jeju plants and a walking path that leads to the
ocean. Last year, when the officials attending the Korea,
China and Japan trilateral summit or the Korea-ASEAN summit
wanted to take a break, they were able to do so amid the
wonderful scenery surrounding Jejus convention center.
Nor is such serenity restricted to Jejus daytimes. Unlike
Hong Kong, say, or Macao, where nights erupt with raucous
clubs and shows, Jeju remains rather relaxed and sedate, a
state of mind that even stretches to the islands few casinos.
Most of our guests are respectable gents, says Kim Dong-
yeon, a manager at the Grand Jeju Hotels Casino, with a glint
of pride. They want to spend a bit of quality time with friendsand family, so we make sure they can do so in peace.
If you arrive at Jeju after a long and tiring journey, instead of
heading for the sauna, why not try taking a rest on the dark
sand at Samyang Beach near the airport? Stretching for just 6
hectares, Samyang is nonetheless renowned for its dark sand
(the only such beach on Jeju), which is said to help remedy all
sorts of ailments. Submerging your body in the sand for a
while, it is claimed, will give relief from neuralgia, arthritis, skin
diseases and even diabetes.
While youre there, be sure to see at least a few of Jejus
famous tourism attraction oreum, or parasitic volcanoes. The
result of craters created next to crust formed from lava flow,
some 360 oreum basically small hillocks dot the Jeju
landscape today. Not too low but not too high either, oreum
provide the perfect setting for a leisurely stroll in good compa-
ny. Reach the top, and the ocean breeze will cool the sweat on
your forehead, a marvelously refreshing sensation that regular
visitors will be sure to experience every time they come.
Whenever I grow tired of life, I always come back to Jeju, atraveler tells me on the olle. There are mountains, the ocean,
the fields, as well as warm people here that make up the ideal
tonic for me to recharge myself. If it were up to me, I would
actually like to stay here forever.
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A view from Udo Beach (top). People enjoy a day of yachting (middle). Traditional
chogajip, or Korean traditional thatched-roof house, is located at the base of
Sanbangsan Mountain (above).
An exterior view of International Convention Center Jeju is seen.
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tionCenterJeju
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MY KOREA
Lastmonth, the people ofSeoul once
again turned their city into a sea ofred as
they rooted for thei
r team atthe FIFA
WorldCup i
n South Afr
ica. For one long-
termSeo
ul resid
ent,th
at awok
e mem
ories
of2002
and a
magic
al tim
e tha
t seale
d his
love f
orthe
coun
tryand its
people.
This June,as Korea celebrated victory against
Greece in its first World Cup match in South
Africa, the energy coursing through Seoul
brought back a flood of warm memories of
when I first arrived eight years ago,just a few
months shy ofWorld Cup 2002.Granted,
nothing compares to the energy of when the
country is hosting the event, but Koreas
relentless enthusiasm was on display now just
as it was then,with thousands tens of
thousands ofscreaming fans clad in red
shirts, united in spirit,filling the streets near
City Hall and sharing in the
excitement.It was an unforget-
table experience, and one that
served as a pleasant reminder
that, thanks to the nature of
sport,for a brief
moment in time
all the worlds
problems can be
put aside, leav-
ing just a throng
of passionatefans cheering on
their favorite
team. I cant
think of a more
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PROFILE
Canada-born GregoryCurley is a professional
photographer based inSeoul. His work has
appeared in The KoreaHerald, The Korea Times,
SEOUL, Elle, MTV, 10
Magazine, Morning Calm,CNNGo and CNN.He now works for LG Ad
as a copywriter, and forSEOUL and CNNGo as a
photographer and regularcontributer.
(and not a little relieved) to learn that everyone was just overjoyed at Koreas
place in the group standings.There wasnt the slightest bit of aggression or
hooliganism.Thats something I remember very distinctly. I would usually
take to the streets with several friends and without fail one or all of us would
get asked where we were from or how we were enjoying Korea. It was that
level of genuine warmth that cemented my good impression of Koreans,and
it has stayed with me to this d ay.
But I didnt only watch the games from inside bars or celebrate in the
streets. I had the good fortune of taking in three games in stadiums: Korea
versus Germany,Spain versus Ireland and Korea versus Portugal.The latter I
watched at Jamsil Stadium,in Seoul though the game was actually taking
place in Incheon.It was the deciding match of the group stages,and the
excitement had gotten to such a degree that many large venues threw their
doors open and let fans watch the action on vast screens.Supporters of all
ages flooded in through Jamsil Stadiums gates that day,raising noise levels to
deafening heights.In our group were some of the only foreigners in the stadi-
um on that particular day,and before we knew what was happening, we
were whisked to the VIP section to get better views.I dont think we were
told the reason behind our sudden four-star treatment,or if there even
was one.L ooking back,I think it was simply a case ofthe host
country wanting to share as much as possible with their foreign
guests. It was,to say the least,a humbling experience.
The biggest game that year was, of course, the semi-final,when Korea faced
Germany.Having made it so far,defeating both Italy and Spain,Korea stood
on the cusp of a place in the final and a place in soccer immortality.For the
life of me, I dont know how I managed to snag tickets,but there I sat, sur-
rounded by over 60,000 fans,rooting for the Taegeuk Warriors. Though,
sadly,Koreas glorious winning streak finally came to an end that night,with
the Germans winning 1-0,as I left the stadium afterward, I couldnt help but
be struck by just how orderly everything was, and how good-spirited all the
Korean fans were despite the loss.
At that stage, it was hard to remember that just a few weeks previously,with
demonstrations or other disturbances deemed a real possibility,the authori-
ties had ramped up security measures in the capital. During the event,there
was nothing of the sort. Not at the stadiums, nor in the streets. Plenty of
clean-up needed, but nothing worse than youd expect after a city-sized party.
I was really amazed by that that level of safety and genuine mutual respect.
It was Koreas chance to introduce itself to the world and it couldnt have
made a better impression.
At the time,when I related these stories to friends back home,many of
them couldnt even find Korea on a map. And while Korea remains less well
known than its neighbors, the World Cup definitely raised its profile in their
eyes, and gave them an idea that there was this distinct,fascinating culture in
a country on the far side ofthe world.
For me, though,being here at that time was simply incomparable,like
being a part of history.Its left impressions that have stayed with me ever
since. I will take a mental scrapbook of memories with me when I leave
Korea,but that year my first year and that experience will be near the
very top ofthe first page. It was,I am convinced,t he central reason why I have
remained in Korea until now.
As they say,first impressions are lasting impressions. And in this,I think I
couldnt have had a more apt introduction to the country I still call home. In
its fervor and friendliness, the 2002 World Cup was the best possible intro-
duction to Koreas embracing spirit and incredible passion.Though Seoul
changes as quickly as almost any city on Ear th, its reassuring to know that its
people remain anchored to their traditional roots of welcome and hospitality.
Korea holds a great deal of interest for veteran travelers and newcomers
alike. Many parts of the country are virtually untouched and just beckoning
to be explored. My reasons for coming here largely stemmed from a keen
desire to get out of a comfort zone and quiet my nagging wanderlust.I hadnt
counted on falling in love with the culture here,nor did I ever anticipate the
warm reception I would receive throughout my time here.I had initially
planned to stay for one year,but Im now well into my eighth. Though much
of the reason for this is the opportunity and creativity Ive found here,I
would definitely say that much ofit is also down to sheer luck at arr iving atsuch a pivotal time.
Korea was on the cusp of change in 2002, but still shows no signs of slowing
down. Now,as then, Im happy to be along for the ride. by Gregory B. Curley |
illustrations by Jo Seung-yeon| photographs by Kim Nam-heon and Kim Hong-jin
opportune time to have come here.
It was,though, quite a foreign experience
for me to witness this level of feverish excite-
ment. Football or soccer as it is referred to
in some parts of the world just isnt all
that big where I come from.Instead,
Canadians take their ice hockey very serious-
ly.Yet, as riled up as fans can get inside a
hockey arena,it pale s in comparison to the
sheer scope ofopen stadiums of Europe (and
now Asia) housing over 60,000 screaming
fans cheering on the home team.Add to that
the boisterous hordes parading through the
city waving banners and signs,and one gets a
much clearer picture of just how colossal an
influence soccer has over people.
In fact, I remember witnessing what
looked to be a riot in Gangnam crowds
of people stomping on top of buses
yet was pleasantly surprised
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JULY
201034
KOREA
JULY
2010
MY KOREA : PHOTOS
VARIOUS FACES OF STREET SUPPORTERS An upside
view from Han Rivers Banpo is s een it looks all red
because many citizens are wearing red-colored shirts,
so called cheering color (above). A man holds a
flag printed with KOREA (opposite, below left).
Some foreigners with painted faces joined the street
to cheer (opposite, below right). Famous Korean
comedian Kim Guk-jin (middle) joins the street
crowded with cheering citizens (top right).
Generations of all ages gathered together to cheerfor the 2010 World Cup games (right above). Tens of
thousands of people gathered at the Seoul Plaza, in
front of the Seoul City Hall, to support the national
team (right).
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Korea, long a recipient of global aid, is now extending its help-ing hand to others. Reduced to rubble due to the Korean War,
the country has made a stirring comeback over the last sixdecades, culminating in its membership of the OECDsDevelopment Assistance Committee last year.Korea is nowrapidly increasing the size of its overseas aid,and its volunteersare in the front lines of these efforts. by Seo Dong-cheol
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GLOBAL KOREA
Of the many reasons cited for Koreas
explosive economic growth, the famed
Korean work ethic is one that pops up
time and again. Without the propensity
for hard slog and eye-wateringly long
hours, it is said, Koreas ascent from
wartorn poverty to economic power-
house simply couldnt have taken
place. Yet even today, with the country
much better off, those workaholic
habits die hard. And more than just in
the manufacturing or corporate indus-
tries, those traits are showing up in,
for Korea, a much newer enterprise:
overseas voluntary work.
Kim Dong-cheol, 33, left Korea for
the remote Sri Lankan town of
Hettipola in 2004. Its only 140 kilo-
meters northeast of the capital
Colombo, but because of poor roads,
he had to drive for five hours to get
there. I wasnt affiliated with any
organization, and I had no idea what
to do when I was left alone in this
remote village, says Kim. For three
months, I rode around the town on a
bike just making friends and explain-
ing why I had come.
After winning over the hearts of the
townspeople, Kim got to work on the
main reason for his being there: con-
structing an education center.
Impressed with this foreigner working
so hard on their home turf, some
3,300 local residents joined Kim to
work on the building, using materials
largely supplied by the Korea
International Cooperation Agency, or
KOICA, which oversees the Korean
governments aid projects. Using little
or no machinery, Kim and the people
of Hettipola took around 18 months to
construct the building. Today, the cen-
ter has space for computers, English
and agricultural training, a library and
a kindergarten.
Even after returning from his two-
year stay, Kim simply couldnt forget
Sri Lanka. Leaving a steady job at a
research institute in Gangwon-do
Province, Kim became chairman of the
NGO EIF Sri Lanka, which promotes
development and the improvements in
education in Sri Lankas rural areas.
When in Korea, Kim delivers frequent
lectures on public administration and
international cooperation. But two or
three times a year, he returns to Sri
Lanka to work on development proj-
ects. Last January, Kim helped build
a library in Hettipola, and is now work-
ing to expand the education center.
I remember what the American
Peace Corps volunteers who served
in Korea 40 years ago had said
recently, Kim says. They said theyd
come to Korea to change and saveus, but instead Korea ended up
changing and saving them.
Volunteering overseas has changed
me and made me have entirely new
dreams and set new goals.
FROM RAGS TO RICHES...
AND GIVING BACK
Copions short volunteering people and students in
Kathmandu enjoy their holiday in Nepal (opposite).
Kim Dong-cheol, middle, hands a girl stationery in
Sri Lanka (above). A volunteer draws a face-paint-
ing with a child in Jakarta, Indonesia (below).
KimD
ong-c
heol/KOIC
A(top);JangWon-rok/KOICA(right)
Ch
JeongYeong-seob/KO
ICA
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Some Peruvian Students are having a pottery-mak-
ing lesson from Korean volunteers (top). Jeong
Woo-hui, right, presides at the Korean-speaking
competition in Thailand (above).
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VOLUNTEERING CHANGED LIFE
Jeong Woo-hui, 35, quit a good job at
a foreign company and left to start
volunteering overseas in 2005. The
Korean literature major decided to
dedicate herself to teaching the
Korean language, and once her mind
was made up, no amount of coaxing
by her friends could change it. For
two years, Jeong taught Korean at
Burapha University in Bangsaen,
Thailand, building friendships with her
students that have transcended the
typical teacher-student relationship.
Her proudest moment, she says, was
coaching a student to the top prize in a
Korean-speaking competition organized
by the Korean Embassy in Thailand.
Like Kim, Jeong found her life com-pletely changed by her voluntary work.
Leaving behind eight years of experi-
ence as a brand manager in the mar-
keting department of a foreign firm,
she got a masters degree in Korean-
language education, and began teach-
ing Korean to foreigners at Yonsei
Universitys Korean Language
Institute.
Just as English-speaking volun-
teers came to Korea to teach English
40 years ago, I was blessed with the
chance to share my ability with people
from a different culture through the
Korean language, she says. Without
volunteering, I wouldnt have discov-
ered such joy.
Woo Ju-hee, a 29-year-old former
stationery designer, also became
enamored with volunteering overseas.
In 2006, following a series of chance
encounters and meetings, Woo found
herself in Colombo, Sri Lanka, doing
voluntary work as a teacher and alsodiscovering the joy of sharing.
I taught how to produce animation
and advertisements using Photoshop
and Illustrator at the University of the
Visual & Performing Arts, and I realized
that my talents could do so much
good, she says. I was very pleased to
be able to contribute to design educa-
tion, which is still at such an early stage
in Sri Lanka.
On top of working with college stu-
dents, Woo found time to teach mid-
dle and high school students for two
hours per day. After about six months
of class, Woo, in coordination with the
school, opened a design exhibition
and provided school supplies to the
top students. After two years of volun-
teering in Sri Lanka, Woo returned
home, got a teaching certificate and
became a teacher at a vocational
school. Currently, Woo is taking some
time off and mulling over her next
move. Through my volunteering
experience overseas, I developed an
interest in social welfare, she says.
I am considering going to grad school
and expanding my knowledge in
design, so that I can share it through
volunteering and other ways.
FROM ECONOMIC POWER TO
VOLUNTARY POWER There are many
other devoted Korean volunteers in
foreign nations. As of June 2010,
there are about 1,700 volunteers dis-
patched across the globe through
KOICA. Boasting expertise in every-
thing from childrens education, com-
puters and medicine, to electronics,
marine development and womens
rights, they are based in almost 50
countries, including Vietnam,
Indonesia, the Philippines, Mongolia,
Peru and Bangladesh.
From just 44 overseas volunteers in
1990, KOICAs force of overseas vol-
unteers swelled to 100 in 1995, 724
in 2004 and more than 1,000 last
year. The Korean government now
plans to send 4,000 volunteers per
year until 2013, along with college vol-
unteers sent by the the Ministry of
Education, Science and Technology;
Internet experts from the Ministry of
Public Administration and Security;
and taekwondo masters put together
by the Taekwondo Peace Corps.
Volunteers from Korean NGOs, such
as Global Civic Sharing, GoodNeighbors and Good People will only
add to the figure. Considering that
Korea received aid from across the
world as recently as the 1960s, this
caps a remarkable transformation.JeongKyeong-a
h(top)
/KOICA;SongYeong-i
l/KOICA(right)
Sixty-seven-year-old Sin Chan-su,
who returned last summer from a two-
year volunteering stint in Nepal, per-
sonifies the changes in his home
country. In the 1960s, Sin graduated
from an agricultural high school in
Jeongeup, Jeollabuk-do Province, and
worked at an agricultural guide center.
Foreign volunteers helped with devel-
opment projects in the area for six
months, and it was then, Sin said,
that he started dreaming of going
abroad someday as a volunteer. Thirty-
eight years later, in 2001, Sin retired
from his post at the Rural
Development Administration and since
then he has been on three volunteer-
ing missions. Over a six-year period,
Sin shared everything he knew about
rural development with people in
developing countries. What he
received as a young man, he hasrepaid as an adult. Like Sin, Koreans
now understand this: having achieved
extraordinary economic growth thanks
in large part to foreign aid, its now
time for Korea to give back.
Children have a Taekwondo lesson in Bandung,
Indonesia (above). Girls are jumping ropes at a
school playground with KOICA volunteers in
Uzbekistan (below).
ParkEun-m
i/KOICA(t
op);JeongWoo-hui/KOICA(left)
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build nuclear weapons is not going to
help them achieve their goal of
becoming a strong and prosperous
nation. Urging North Korea to aban-
don its nuclear ambitions, Lee called
on his northern neighbor to engage in
sincere dialogue with the South, and
to move out of international isolation
toward an era of common prosperity
on the Korean Peninsula.
Held annually since 2002, the Asia
Security Summit is a forum for coun-
tries from the Asia-Pacific region, co-
hosted by the Singaporean govern-
ment and International Institute for
Strategic Studies, a British research
institute. Involving decision-makers in
diplomacy and security from 28
nations across the Asia-Pacific and
including the US and China the
summit is better known as the
Shangri-La Dialogue.
After the plenary session, President
Lee met with Lee Kuan Yew, the first
Prime Minister and now Minister
Mentor of Singapore, and they
exchanged views on Northeast Asian
regional affairs, the G-20 Summit and
global economic trends. On June 5,
the Korean leader sat down with
Singaporean business leaders to pro-
mote investment opportunities in
major Korean development projects,
such as Saemangeum and free eco-
nomic zones, as well as green growth
industries. Lee then discussed the
Before a large congregation of mainly
Asian dignitaries at the ninth Asia
Security Summit, held in Singapore,
President Lee Myung-bak outlined his
vision for Asias global presence and
Koreas role within it. South Korea, he
said, will actively participate in region-
al and international responses to glob-
al security problems, adding that for
the sake of world peace and universal
prosperity, South Korea has been
steadily expanding its official devel-
opment assistance and peacekeeping
operations. And With the successful
hosting of the G-20 Summit this year
and the Nuclear Security Summit in
2012, President Lee said in his
keynote speech, the South Korea will
play an active role in resolving global
economic and security problems.
Addressing North Koreas ongoing
nuclear ambitions and its sinking of
the Cheonan, a South Korean warship,
President Lee said that since these
provocations present a great threat to
peace and stability on the Korean
Peninsula and in Northeast Asia, the
international community must cooper-
ate closely and respond firmly.The international community, Lee
continued, should make North Korea
acknowledge its wrongdoing regarding
the Cheonan sinking and must help
the North realize that buying time to
41
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AT THE ASIA SECURITY SUMMIT,
PRESIDENT LEE DISCUSSES CHEONAN,
ECONOMIC TIES WITH SINGAPORE
Dominated by the Cheonan incident and its international repercussions,this years Asia Security Summit,or Shangr i-La Dialogue, also saw PresidentLee Myung-bak meet the Singaporean Prime Minister Lee Hsien Loong fora discussion on bilateral issues related to the economy,tr ade, security andgreen growth. The main event,which included Russia and Australia amongits 28 participants, wrapped up on June 6. by Kwon Kyeong-hui
SUMMIT DIPLOMACY
Cheongwadae
US-Korea defense posture with Robert
Gates, the US Secretary of Defense,
before having a meeting with
Singapores Prime Minister, Lee
Hsien Loong.
TAKING THE CHEONAN TO THE UN
During his keynote address, President
Lee Myung-bak announced that Seoul
had formally asked the UN Security
Council to discuss sanctions against
North Korea for its deadly attack on
the Cheonan. The request, submitted
to Mexico, the rotating chair of the
Security Council, came on the heels of
an announcement by South Koreas
ambassador to the UN, Park In-kook,
that a joint military-civilian investiga-
tive team had concluded that the
North Korea was clearly to blame for
the attack, and that such provocations
were endangering global security.
Along with the referral to the Security
Council, Lee said his government was
seeking coordinated support from the
international community.
North Koreas provocation against
the Cheonan isnt just a problem for
South Korea; its a serious matter
upon which the peace and stability of
President Lee Myung-bak gives a keynote speech
at the 2010 Shangri-La Dialogue (opposite).
President Lee has a chat with Lee Hsien Loong, the
Singaporean Prime Minister, on June 5 (above
left). Lee met with the former, first Prime Minister
Lee Kuan Yew on June 4 (below).
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Singapores Prime Minister, pledged
support for South Koreas efforts to
raise the Cheonan issue at the UN
Security Council. Among several
other bilateral issues, the men also
discussed the expansion of defense
cooperation following a ministerial
meeting between their two countries
late last year. The two leaders agreed
to maintain close coordination in
defense.
The President and Prime Minister
also signed a memorandum of under-
standing on medical exchange and
cooperation on joint developments in
developing countries. President Lee
then asked his counterpart for
Singapores support during the G-20
Summit held in Seoul this November,
and for Koreas Global Green Growth
Institute, which Seoul established to
support eco-friendly growth.
In other talks, the two leaders said
they would cooperate closely on
increased cultural exchanges, such as
the construction of a Korean Cultural
Center in Singapore. They further
vowed to strengthen economic ties
through the anticipated signing of the
Mutual Recognition Agreement for the
Authorized Economic Operator (AEO),
which was to be made official at the
Annual Session of the World Customs
Organization Council in Belgium, in
late June.
thats left us with are two North
Korean nuclear tests.
Whats important is not when the
six-party talks can resume, Lee con-
tinued, referring to international
efforts to end the Norths nuclear pro-
gram. But how we can resolve the
issue with a grand bargain.
KOREA AND SINGAPORE TALK
TRADE At the June 5 meeting
between the premiers of South Korea
and Singapore, Lee Hsien Loong,
Cheongwadae
President Lee Myung-bak had a meeting with
Singaporean economists on June 5 (above). Lee
also met Robert Gates, the US Secretary of Defense
in Singapore (below).
the entire Northeast Asia region
hinges, Lee said. If we once again
let such actions go unanswered, it will
be a threat to peace on the Korean
Peninsula and in Northeast Asia.
Stressing the growing need for
regional cooperation in Asia, Lee cited
the Association of Southeast Asian
Nations (ASEAN), Asia-Pacific
Economic Cooperation (APEC) and the
Korea-Japan-China Trilateral Summit
as examples of effective multilateral
organizations. But though much of his
speech focused on the importance of
fraternity and universal cooperation,
Lees major aim, experts say, was to
gain the support of smaller Asian
countries in persuading China to
adopt a tougher stance with North
Korea. In this, Lees keynote speech
served as an extension of his earlier
ef