korea magazine [september 2011 vol. 7 no. 9]
TRANSCRIPT
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People & Culture
SEPTEMBER 2011
GWANGJUDIVE INTO DESIGN
FUSION GUGAKTRADITIONAL
MUSIC MAKEOVER
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Talchum One of Korea’s
Important Intangible
Cultural Properties, the
Talchummask dance is not
only a performance, but
demonstrates philosophical
and dramatic tales of
humans, animals and the
supernatural. Te Andong
International Mask Dance
Festival is an opportunity to experience the various
Korean traditional dances
and even interact with the
performers. Te festival,
which runs from Sept
30 to Oct 9, will be held
at both Maskdance Park
and Hahoe Folk Village in
Andong, Gyeongsangbuk-
do Province.
korean heritage
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Contentsseptember 2011 VOL.7 NO.09
02
02COVER STORY
Korean artists lead the way for music, ballet.
12PEN & BRUSH
Novelist Jung Yi-hyun mixes realism and daring.
16PEOPLE
Designer Sohn Hye-won finds beauty in history.
18GREAT KOREAN
Sohn Kee-chung was Korea’s 1st gold medalist.
20SEOUL
Travel the world from right within Seoul.
23FLAVOR
Enjoy songpyeon rice cakes for chuseok.
24TRAVEL
Di G j th it f t d d i
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cover story
TAKE CLASSICS TO NEW HEIGHTS
Korea’s young classical artists aresweeping global competitions.With the world’s leading balletcompanies beckoning to dancersand major symphonies searchingor the next big musician, thecountry is proving itsel a vibrantcradle or young maestros. hisnew generation o artists isleading the way to success.by Lee Se-mi | photographs by Kim Nam-heon ©
Y o n h a p N e w s A g e n c y ( o p p o s i t e , a b o v e l e f t ) ; K N U A
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www.korea.net | 0504 | korea | september 2011
in 1993, it has given rise to numerous
winners on the world classical music
stage. In addition, the Korean National
Research Institute or the Gied in Arts
(KRIGA), a stepping stone or many on
the way to KNUA, has helped provide
an early education or gied youth in
music since 1994. Several graduates
rom KRIGA later went on to win
international music competitions.Proessors with a wealth o experience
and talent have been vital in helping
these young artists. Choi Hyun-
soo, winner o the 1990 chaikovsky
Competition and the rst male ethnic
Korean singer to win, is now a proessor
at KRIGA. Acclaimed pianist and
conductor Kim Dae-jin, a proessor
at KNUA, actually taught two o this
year’s chaikovsky winners and also
Kim Sun-wook, the winner o the
2006 Leeds International Pianoorte
Competition and the rst Korean to
win the event.
Young musicians are no longer
looking west with wistul eyes. o
study overseas is not a prerequisite to
success or even necessarily a stepping
stone to advancing on the global stage.
“It really helped to study under such
excellent teachers who had international
experience and at schools with well-
organized programs. Te only reason
I was able to win had to do with the
groundwork laid by my teachers,” says
soprano Seo. Fellow chaikovsky winner
Son adds, “An artist’s identity comes
rom a sense o originality, and I’m
happy I have developed my own musical
skills and identity in Korea.”
At the 14th International chaikovsky
Competition in June, ve Korean
musicians took home prizes in the
piano, violin and voice categories. Te
competition, held in Russia every our
years, has been dubbed the “Classical
Olympics,” and the young musicians
shocked the world with their talent.
Soprano Seo Sun-young and bass
Park Jong-min won the top prizes in theemale and male voice categories. Son
Yeol-eum and Cho Seong-jin placed
second and third, respectively, in the
piano competition, while Lee Je-hye took
third place or violin. Additionally, Son
won several Best Perormance awards
or her pieces by Ro dion Shchedrin,
Rachmanino and chaikovsky.
In May, soprano Hong Hae-ran also
made news by becoming the rst Asian
winner o the voice competition at the
7th Queen Elisabeth Competition in
Belgium, one o the world’s top three
music contests besides the chaikovsky
and International Chopin Piano
Competition. Using the Brussels win
as a springboard, Hong is now poised
educated in Korea, demonstrating that
it is no longer necessary or Koreans to
receive their musical instruction abroad
i they are to be successul.
Tese steps toward classical
independence have been long coming. A
number o successul veterans have been
paving the way or decades, and past
winners o the chaikovsky Competition
include pianist and conductor Chung
Myung-whun, baritone singer Choi
Hyun-soo (also known as Hans Choi),
pianist Paik Hae-sun and singer Kim
Dong-seub (also known as Gerard Kim).
Others have gained recognition both
at home and abroad with their rigorous
international touring s chedules and
overseas activities. Paik Kun-woo, one
o Korea’s leading pianists, went to the
United States to study at Juilliard School
when he was 15, receiving international
recognition or his perormance o the
complete works o Maurice Ravel at the
Lincoln Center in New York. Violinist
Chung Kyung-wha, the sister o Chung
Myung-whun, entered Juilliard at 12
and quickly became a star when she
played a chaikovsky concerto with the
London Symphony Orchestra. Award-
winning soprano Sumi Jo attended theAccademia di Santa Cecilia in Rome and
sang at the world’s top ve opera houses
as a prima donna.
MUSICAL GUIDANCE Apart rom the
rare exceptions, most o Korea’s top
veteran musicians have received their
musical training overseas rom an early
age. As late as the 1980s, it was difcult
to get a strong musical education in
Korea — a country where Western
classical music had not been introduced
until the 1960s — without some orm
o governmental support. I one wanted
to become a world-amous musician,
the only way to achieve that goal
was through one’s own network, and
preerably overseas.
Tis is why the recent success o
to launch her career with New York’s
Metropolitan Opera House this month.
Teir accomplishments are
extraordinary, and these young artists
— whose ages range rom 17 to 28 —
are part o the rise o local classical
musicians. Each o the winners was
so-called homegrown “classical kids”
(as they are known colloquially)
has become such a talked about
phenomenon. Behind a string o
successes at international competitions
are the educational support system and
economic growth that have, together,
enabled Koreans to oster an interest in
art and culture.
Tis generation studied at nationalinstitutions whose instructors were the
very same people who had once studied
abroad, and beneted rom Korean
companies that now support the arts. In
short, becoming an artist is no longer
the pipe dream it once was, and the
eld o classic arts in Korea is rapidly
evolving with the times.
Cho Seong-jin, one o the chaikovsky
Competition winners, is currently
studying at Seoul Arts High School. Te
other our competition winners studied
at the Korea National University o
Arts (KNUA) and soprano Hong also
graduated rom KNUA.
KNUA has positioned itsel as a
wellspring or talented musicians
through an education system that
ocuses on practice. Since its oundation
1985
Lee Mi-kyung takes 5 th forviolin at the QueenElisabeth Competition. KimChin takes 6th in violin.
1987
Lee Mi-joo places6th for piano at theQueen ElisabethCompetition.
1974Chung Myung-whun takes 2nd place for pianoat the Tchaikovsky Competition, becomingthe first Korean to place at the event.
1990Choi Hyun-soo (Hans Choi) wins the topprize for voice at the TchaikovskyCompetition (competing for the US).
1991
Paik Hae-sun takes4th for piano at theQueen ElisabethCompetition.
1976
Kang Dong-suktakes 3rd for violin atthe Queen ElisabethCompetition.
1994
Paik Hae-sun comes in 3rd forpiano at the TchaikovskyCompetition. Lee Kyung-suncomes in 6th for violin.
Cho Seong-jin, whoplaced third for pianoin the TchaikovskyCompetition, performsat the internationalcontest (above).Soprano Hong Hae-ran,winner of the QueenElisabeth InternationalCompetition, listens toQueen Fabiola ofBelgium (left).Opposite, from left:Seo Sun-young, SonYeol-eum, Cho Seong- jin, Park Jong-min andLee Je-hye.
AGE OF ACHIEVEMENTOver the last four decades, Korean classical musicians have been increasingly
distinguishing themselves at international competitions. The following
musicians have made their mark at the world’s top classical music events: the
International Tchaikovsky Competition, the International Chopin Piano
Competition and the Queen Elisabeth Competition.
© Y
o n h a p N e w s A g e n c y ( a b o v e ) ; Y o n h a p - A P ( l e f t ) ; K u m h o A s i a n a C u l t u r a l F o u n d a t i o n ( o p p o s i t e )
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www.korea.net | 0706 | korea | september 2011
FOUNTAIN OF RESOURCES Koreans no
longer have to give up their dream o
studying music due to a lack o unds,
as major corporate sponsors o the
arts are stepping in to help. Four o the
chaikovsky Competition’s winners
(Son, Cho, Lee and Seo) have been
the beneciaries o the Kumho Asiana
Cultural Foundation’s sponsorship
program, which has been supportingyoung talent or the last decade. Teir
initiatives include scholarships, ree
airline tickets, opportunities to perorm
and ree instrument rentals.
Kumho accepts new musicians into
its sponsorship program twice a year, in
a cutthroat competition in which over
200 aspiring musicians apply. o date,
roughly 1,000 people have beneted
rom the program.
Another noteworthy music sponsor is
the Daewon Cultural Foundation, which
specically supports classically-trained
musicians. Korean Leeds winner Kim
received nancial and administrative
support rom 2005 to 2008, and has
since signed with Askonas Holt, an
international arts management company
whose client list includes the likes o
Sumi Jo, Chang Han-na and Chung
Myung-whun.
DARE TO DANCE Korean ballet dancers
are rapidly making their mark on
the world stage as well. en students
rom the KNUA dominated the 6th
International Dance Competition
“Sicilia Barocca 2011” held in Modica,
Italy, in July, winning in the junior,
student and senior categories.
Sim Hyun-hee and Yang Chae-eun
shared the top spot in the senior section,
while Sim took top honors in the pas de
deux with Kim Hyun-woong, a ormer
member o the Korea National Ballet
and a KNUA alumnus. Jung Ga-yeon
and Choi Ye-lim jointly won the rst
prize in the junior category. Na Dae-han
nished second in the same sec tion. In
the student category, Lee Sun-woo took
the top prize, with Lee Goh-eun and Lee
Soo-bin tying or second place, and Jun
Joon-hyuk taking third.
“Tere was a lot o interest in Korean
ballet because it was the rst time our
country had joined the competition. We
were able to show that Korean ballet is
indeed o a quality high enough to win
at a major international competition,”
says Kim Sun-hee, a dance proessor at
KNUA. Kim hersel graduated rom the
well-known Vaganova Ballet Academy
in St. Petersburg, Russia, which has
produced other legendary dancers such
as Vaslav Nijinsky and Anna Pavlova.
“Since the competition, there has been a
lot o inquiry about the Korean artorm.”
Across the globe, there are more
than 10 Koreans who dance as prima
ballerinas and soloists at some o the
world’s major ballet companies. Kang
Hyo-jung, a dancer with Germany’s
Stuttgart Ballet, was promoted to
principal dancer aer her debut as Juliet
in Romeo and Juliet , a perormance in
which she received 12 curtain calls.
Kang joined Stuttgart aer winning a
prize at Switzerland’s Prix de Lausanne
at 16 and has danced as a soloist with
the company or the past years aer
dancing with the corps de ballet.
On American shores, ballerina Seo
Hee became the rst Korean soloist at
New York’s American Ballet Teatre.
She debuted as Giselle in the popular
classical ballet o the same title and won
the prestigious Prix de Lausanne in
2003. In Russia, Bae Joo-yoon joined the
Bolshoi Ballet in 1996.
Similar to classical music, however,
more and more dancers are getting
their start in Korea. While both Kangand Seo studied abroad beore joining
international ballet companies, recent
star Lee Sang-eun decided to join the
Universal Ballet Company (UBC), one
o only our proessional companies in
Korea, upon graduating rom Korea’s
Sun Hwa Arts High School.
Tough Lee, a past winner o
the Grand Prix Award at the Seoul
International Dance Competition
and a silver medalist at the Shanghai
International Ballet Competition, later
le the UBC, it is remarkable that she
began her career entirely domestically.
Earlier this year in May, Lee danced one
o the leading roles in La Bayadère with
the Dresden Semperoper Ballet.
Park Sae-eun, a student at KNUA,
joined the Paris Opera Ballet in August,
while classmate Choi Young-gyu joined
the Dutch National Ballet in May. Park,
in particular, is the rst Korean ballerina
to enter the ranks o the French
company, ollowing in the ootsteps o
ormer-company member ballerino Kim
Yong-geol, now a proessor at KNUA.
While studying at KNUA, Park won the
top prize at the Lausanne competition
in 2007, ollowing it up with a gold
medal at Bulgaria’s International Ballet
Competition Varna in 2009.
Furthermore, Han Sung-woo, also
a KNUA alumnus, has become the
rst Korean ballet dancer to join
Great Britain’s Royal Ballet aer
winning second prize at the 39th Prix
de Lausanne, a rst or a male Korean
dancer. More recently, Kim Ki-min
joined Russia’s Mariinsky Ballet, the
world’s top classical ballet company, asthe rst male Asian dancer.
“Mariinsky, the Dutch National
Ballet and Great Britain’s Royal Ballet
are all stages very much sought aer
by dancers around the world. It’s a rst
step or Korean ballet dancers to adorn
the global stage,” says KNUA dance
proessor Kim Sun-hee.
RISE TO SUCCESS How did Korean
ballet become so
competitive? Te
educational groundwork
was laid in the 1980s and
1990s when several ballet
institutions opened in Korea,
one aer another. It started with
the Universal Ballet Company in
1984, then the Culture School o
Korea National Ballet in 1993 and
lastly the Dance Division at KNUA in
1996. Te level o education has been
enhanced as dancers rom world-
class ballet companies such as Bolshoi
and Kirov have returned to Korea as
proessors and instructors.
Experts say Korean dancers have
improved greatly as their overall
physical condition strengthens and the
educational system here becomes better. © Y
o n h a p N e w s A g e n c y
Active communication with overseas
ballet companies has also enabled
Korean dancers to take on new and
dierent styles rom Russia, as well as
the latest trends rom Europe and the
United States.
Koreans are creating their own
legends in the classical music and dance
elds. Young artists on the international
stage are presenting hope to uturehomegrown “classical kids” in Korea.
Indeed, the country is emerging as a
powerul source o classical arts with
the continuing growth o education
and resources. Just as with K-Pop and
the Hallyu Korean wave, unwavering
support and investment are needed
to ensure promising young talents
continued success.
1995
Park Jong-hwa takes5th for piano at theQueen ElisabethCompetition.
2002
Kim Dong-seub takes 3rd forvoice at the TchaikovskyCompetition. Lim Dong-mincomes in 5th for piano.
2005Kwun Hyuk-joo takes 6th for violin at theQueen Elisabeth Competition. Brothers LimDong-min and Dong-hyek tie for 3 rd place atthe International Chopin Piano Competition.
2007
Lim Hyo-sun takes 5th for piano at theQueen ElisabethCompetition.
2008Cho Eun-hwa wins thecomposition categoryat the Queen ElisabethCompetition.
2009
Jeon Min-je wins the compositioncategory at the Queen ElisabethCompetition. Kim Su-yeon places 4th forviolin and Yoon So-young takes 6th.
2010
Kim Tae-hyung takes 5th for piano at the QueenElisabeth Competitionand Kim Da-sol takes 6th.
2011Soprano Hong Hae-ran becomes the first Asian to win the Queen ElisabethInternational Competition for voice. Soprano Seo Sun-young and bass Park Jong-min sweep the top voice prizes at the Tchaikovsky Competition. Son Yeol-eumand Cho Seong-jin place 2nd and 3rd for piano and Lee Je-hye takes 3rd for violin.
Park Sae-eun is thefirst Korean ballerinato join a Frenchcompany (opposite).Seo Hee is one ofKorea’s leadingdancers (left).
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40s, Ahn had already conducted over
200 orchestras, including the Royal
Philharmonic Orchestra, the Budapest
Symphony Orchestra and the Los
Angeles Philharmonic.
Yun I-sang (1917-1995), born 11
years aer Ahn, was one o Europe’s
leading musicians in his day. oday, he
is seen as someone who bridged Eastern
and Western music, helping open anew era in the history o world music.
Aer studying music in Japan, Yun
moved to France and Germany to learn
to become a composer. Yun excelled in
cello in Japan and, aer realizing that
Koreans had borrowed a oreign song as
their national anthem, decided to write
one himsel. Aegukga would become
the rst piece o original Korean music
written and released overseas.
In 1936, Ahn moved to Europe,
where he learned to conduct rom some
o the great maestros o his day, such
as Bernhard Paumgartner and ZoltánKodály, in Germany, Hungary and
Austria. Later, he met with the world-
amous composer Richard Strauss and
became his assistant conductor. By his
08 | korea | september 2011
PIONEERINGCLASSICALARTISTShe Korean arts have undergonedramatic changes in the nation’stumultuous modern history. In lessthan a century, Korean classicalartists have soared to the top o theirrespective ields internationally.
his remarkable growth seen by today’s musicians and dancers wasmade possible due to the hard work and sacriice o the generations thatcame beore.
By the early 20th century, Western
classical music had only barely begun to
trickle into Korea. Te ew that heard it
were quickly taken with its unamiliar
melodies, inspiring musicians to venture
into the genre.
A notable Korean composer rom that
period is Ahn Eak-tai (1906-1965), the
creator o Aegukga, now the national
anthem o South Korea. Te rst Asianto conduct the Berlin Philharmonic
Orchestra, Ahn was also the rst Korean
to study conducting. He headed to the
United States aer learning to play the
cover story
www.korea.net | 09
Han Dong-il, oneof Korea’s mostwell-knownpianists, madehis debut atCarnegie Hall.
Composer YunI-sang is knownfor integratingtraditionalmusic withclassical.
Chin Un-suk,a Germany-
based Koreancomposer, is acontemporarypioneer.
Pianist PaikKun-woo,based in Paris,is anotherinternationally-recognizedmusician.
Conductor andpianist ChungMyung-whundirects the SeoulPhilharmonicOrchestra.
Ahn Eak-tai is one of Korea’s first conductors(opposite). Ahn conducts an orchestra (below).
Juilliard with the possibility o studying
under the renowned Armenian violin
teacher Ivan Galamian. In 1967, she
entered the prestigious Leventritt
Competition along with ellow alumnus
Zukerman. Te two ended up tying or
rst place as the jur y couldn’t select a
single winner between the two.
Te history o Korean ballet overseas
starts with Kang Sue-jin (1967-present).
A role model or many aspiring dancers,
the modier “the rst” seems to ollow
Kang everywhere she goes, as she
was the rst Asian to win the Prix de
Lausanne and the youngest dancer to
join the Stuttgart Ballet. She alone put
Korea on the world map o ballet.
In 1993, Kang was asked to dance
the lead role in Romeo and Juliet in
celebration o the work’s 30th anniversary.
In 1999, she won the Prix Benois de la
Danse, the veritable Oscars o the ballet
world, and in 2007 was bestowed the
title Kammertanzerin (Royal Court
Dancer), an honor only given to our
people in the 50-year history o Stuttgart
Ballet. Both were rsts or Asians.
© A
h n E a k - t a i F o u n d a t i o n ( l e f t a b o v e , o p p o s i t e b o t t o m ) ; G y e o n g g i A r t s C e n t e r ( o p p o s i t e t o p ) ; Y u n I - s a n g P e a c e F o u n d a t i o n ( o p p o s i t e s e c o n d f r o m t o
p ) ; Y o n h a p N e w s A g e n c y
applying elements o Korean traditional
music to the Western musical scale. For
instance, he would use the gayageum,
a 12-string zither, as vibrato, or apply
the singing styles o Korean traditional
minyo or pansori to the cello or violin.
His works include operas like Sim jong
(perormed at the opening ceremony
o the 1972 Summer Olympics) and
orchestral music such as Silla.
When a eeling o helplessness
dominated a post-war Korea, celebratory
news o 14-year-old Korean pianist Han
Dong-il’s debut concert at Carnegie
Hall on April 28, 1956, was joyously
welcomed by Koreans. In 1962, he was
invited to John F Kennedy’s White
House to play Franz Liszt’s Mephisto
Waltzes and Debussy’s Refets dans
l’eau. Tree years later, he won the 24th
Leventritt Competition, making Han the
rst Korean to have won an international
classical music competition.
Along with Pinchas Zukerman
and Itzhak Perlman, Chung Kyung-
wha (1948-present) is one o the most
respected violinists in the world. Her
success became an inspiration or many
young Korean musicians, especially aer
she was awarded a ull scholarship to
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to a school in a non-English-speaking
country. Te Animation Department
was invited to Switzerland’s Fantoche
Animation Film Festival in 2007, along
with the Royal Academy o Fine Arts in
Antwerp, Belgium, and Italy’s National
School or Cinema, which has, in
essence, been unofcial recognition that
KNUA is one o the top our animation
education centers in the world.
At the same time, KNUA is
vastly dierent rom most other
arts universities in Korea, as it has
established a curriculum o expertise
with a ocus on training and practicing.
Te school chooses a select ew new
students every year, with an educational
program ocused on private lessons,
group discussions and eld training.
Students also have a number o
opportunities to perorm their work.
Te admissions process is also
centered on practical aspects to the
arts, whereby a student’s current skills
are balanced against their potential. A
practical examination and past school
transcripts are considered too.
In addition, the school’s tuition is
relatively inexpensive and still manages
to oer excellent acilities, with generous
post-graduate support. For example,
music students are given 92 private
practice rooms and chances to perorm
over 140 times annually, on dierent
stages that include an ensemble room,
a percussion room, an opera recital
room, a large-scale orchestra hall and
KNUA Hall. Upon nishing school,
KNUA graduates requently get jobs at
art organizations or launch careers as
proessional artists. As o 2010, 5,222
men and women had graduated rom
KNUA, with 2,684 o them (51%)
gaining employment in the arts.
KNUA tries to nd gied children as
early as possible, in order to ocus on
Five young Korean artists took
home prizes at the 14th International
chaikovsky Competition in June, all o
whom were educated in Korea. Te most
interesting aspect o their success is that
they each perormed Western classical
music with a Korean spin.
Four out o the ve winners rom the
prestigious Russian competition were
rom the Korea National University o
Arts (KNUA), and the 6th International
Dance Competition “Sicilia Barocca
2011” was similarly dominated by
10 KNUA graduates. In addition to
classical music and ballet, students rom
this national arts school are nding
success in elds spanning rom theater
to moviemaking and animation.
Many KNUA graduates took part in
the production o the movie Te Chaser ,
nurturing creativity rom as early an age
as possible. In some cases, KNUA’s Art
alent Center will spend up to 10 years
helping one child hone their skills. From
2011, it has also b ecome an educational
center or teachers o gied children,
making ull use o KNUA’s accumulated
expertise and know-how.
“KNUA’s educational programs
produce world-renowned artists
under a vision o nurturing creative
proessionals. It’s important or artists
to express the values o society through
their art, and to become a leader in
the art world, one should understand
the importance o people’s inherent
abilities,” Park says.
As Korea’s only national art school,
and the institution most responsible or
heightening the nation’s arts, KNUA’s
vision is clear and simple. As Park puts
10 | korea | september 2011 www.korea.net | 11
Korea is turning heads as its mosttalented young artists sweepinternational classical music andballet competitions. At the center o this success is Korea NationalUniversity o Arts (KNUA).Arguably the most inluentialnational arts school in Korea, KNUAwas established 18 years ago as acradle or classical education thatocuses more on actual practicethan mere theory.
© K
o r e a N a t i o n a l U n i v e r s i t y
o f A r t s
it, “KNUA’s vision is to oster beautiul
artists, ones who can help make others
happy. Musicians who perorm at the
Lincoln Center or Carnegie Hall, or
winners o international competitions,
are all world-leading artists. At the same
time, those who perorm in a small
town and can capture the value and
beauty o lie through their art are no
less important.”
THE STARSOF KNUA
KNUA GRADUATES WHO PLACED ATINTERNATIONAL COMPETITIONS
These statistics show the number of graduates and current students from the Korea National University of
Arts (KNUA) that placed at international music and dance competitions. They include combined statisticsfrom the music and dance departments of KNUA.
2006 2007 2008 2009 2010 2011 (until June)
38
8
74
138
70
18
74
65
3038
20
Music
Dance
an edgy thriller that made it to the nal
round o the Cannes Film Festival in
2008, including cinematographer Lee
Seong-jae, art director Lee Min-bok and
director Na Hong-jin. Emerging director
Yang Hyo-joo, another KNUA graduate,
won the Silver Bear Award at the Berlin
Film Festival this year or her short lm
Te Unbroken.
“More than anything else, the
government established KNUA with the
intention o ocusing on training and
practicing, as it was determined to have
Korea play a leading role in arts and
culture in the 21st century,” says KNUA
president Park Jong-won.
As a ormer lm director, Park is
an artist himsel. He is known or his
works Our wisted Hero and Te Eternal
Empire, and had an active career in lm
until he became a proessor at KNUA
in 1995. His work has not changed in
principle, however, as he still ocuses
on the beauty o humanity and believes
that education lies in the challenge o
uncovering people’s true talents.
Although there are many great art
schools in the world, rom Juilliard
School to the Royal Academy o
Dramatic Art, they are all separate
institutions that ocus on one major
eld. KNUA, however, has six dierent
subdivisions: music, dance, drama, lm
and multimedia, visual arts and Korean
traditional arts.
In 2007, KNUA’s Department o
Architecture acquired international
certication rom the Royal Institute
o British Architects (RIBA), the rst
time this certication had been awarded
Park Jong-won,president of the KoreaNational University ofArts, speaks withKOREA in his office(opposite). Studentspractice Koreantraditionalinstruments toperformGugak (traditional music) atKNUA (above). KNUAis the only nationalarts university inKorea, and has sixmajor departments,including drama (left).
cover story
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pen & brush
The Voice of a
New Generation
Jung Yi-hyun
Jung Yi-hyun, a rising young writer in the world o Korean
contemporary ction, becomes genuinely excited when
speaking about her latest work. Te 39-year-old author is
making her rst major oray into the international literary
scene with a joint work with Swiss author Alain de Botton
(Essays in Love). “When Munhakdongne Publishing rst
oered me this project with Alain,” Jung says, “I couldn’t help
but wonder i it would even be possible. I ended up saying I
would love to be on board, as long as he was interested.” urns
out, de Botton had read two o Jung’s translated shorts and
quickly agreed.
“Both o us are writing one novel each on a general theme,
which is love and marriage. Although we’re using the same
keywords and outline, the views we express will be dierent,
as one will ocus on an Asian woman in Seoul and the other a
Western man in London,” Jung explains about the work, which
is scheduled to be published next year. “Right now we’re at the
stage where we’re sharing opinions on our rst dras.”
Although Japanese and Korean writers have collaborated
in the past, this is the rst time a Korean and European writer
will be co-authoring a novel. Jung’s earlier works, My Sweet Seoul (2006) and You Don’t Know (2009), were published aer
she had written them serially or a newspaper and online. As
her rst traditional novel, the joint work carries even more
signicance or the young author.
With an urban sensibility, Jung Yi-hyun describes the worldaround her in a realistic, ast-paced writing style. Currently oneo Korea’s most prominent writers, Jung has penned severalworks — one o which was adapted into a popular V drama. Sowhat’s next or the successul author, known or her open-endedconclusions? by Choi Hye-jung | photographs by Kim Nam-heon
© M
o o n j i P u b l i s h i n g
“For me, this is the rst time I’ve written a novel that was not
done serially,” she says. “With my last work, You Don’t Know,
I wrote around 2,000 Korean letters a day. In truth, writing
serially or a paper or or the Internet is just too demanding.
I you make one wrong turn in your story, you’re stuck with it
and can’t change anything… Alternatively, writing a novel and
only publishing it once I’m satised with the nal product, I
can go back and start again or change parts at any point.”
IN PURSUIT OF DESIRE Jung didn’t always want to write. Te
author majored in politics and diplomacy at university, beore
becoming disenchanted with the gap between the theory she
was learning and the political environment she lived in. “I saw
a big dierence between reality and ideals. At the time, there
was a lot o conusion and instability running through Korean
society,” she says. Te young woman began to dri rom her
major and nally decided to switch to creative writing in her
late 20s. Te more she wrote, the more she ound she had a
knack or ction.
Her career got o the ground when she submitted three
short stories to the journal Literature & Society in 2002, whichearned her the prestigious New alents Award. Te three
stories were Rose of Sharon, Innocence and the winning piece
Romantic Love and Society — each o which was included in
her rst collection o shorts. In Rose of Sharon, Jung describes
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www.korea.net | 1514 | korea | september 2011
the love and jealousy that arises between two lesbians, a
subject matter that was rare in Korean literature at the time.
With Innocence, she told a story about the death o three
husbands through one woman’s voice, and in Romantic Love
and Society, Jung weaved the tale o a emale university student
who considers giving up her chaste lie as a means to climb the
social ladder.
Each story displays a daring and provocative sense o
writing, something unique to ction writers just starting
out. Literary critic L ee Gwang-ho once commented, “Jung
Yi-hyun discovers the potential or a new emale writing
style through an audacious and rebellious imagination;
an ability in linguistic composition to subvert male
hypocrisy and their extreme rigidity.”
Jung’s ction, which oen eatures “bad” or
“disreputable” women as its main characters, is
bold in its unabashed depiction o desire as being
something careree and lighthearted, though
with timely insights that are anything but
oversimplied. Her main characters are emme
atales who stay true to their own desires and
the pursuit o them.
GROWING WITH THE TIMES With the
publication o My Sweet Seoul , You
Don’t Know and Today’s Lie (2007),
Jung became the voice o the younger
generation. When she won the 5th Lee
Hyo-seok Literary Award in 2004
with the short story Another Person’s
Loneliness, and the 51st Hyundae
Munhak Literary Prize in 2006
with Sampoong Department
Store, she managed to acquire
popular and critical success
nearly simultaneously, a
result o Jung’s keen insight
into the changing times.
“Many people dene
my work with comments
like ‘a sharp yet
cheerul writing
style’ and ‘cynicalthough sensitive
expressions,’ and
this is probably
because my
characters refect their thoughts, attitudes and liestyles within
an urban setting,” Jung says. Tough it’s “impossible” to
evaluate her style objectively, she eels that it’s important that
a writer constantly evolves — rather than stick to a known
ormula. Tis is why she loves her recent works the most, as
they are proo o her evolution.
In the blurb on the back cover o Today’s Lie, notable emale
Korean novelist Park Wan-suh writes, “o date, Jung Yi-hyun
has come across as being a writer that is wicked or wicked’s
sake...With this work, however, she has displayed a more
warm-hearted, proound point o view, something dierent
rom her past work, and has given me hope that her uture
ction is virtually boundless.”
Today’s Lie is comprised o stories about men and women
living in the 1990s, and ocuses on how each grows as an
individual against their will, in the context o the times they
live in. You Don’t Know, a proound work o introspection
about amily, has a similar theme o progress and change. old
in the style o a mystery novel, the story begins with a murder
and centralizes on the deteriorating relationships between six
amily members. As the title se ems to suggest, the ragmentary
amily relations in the novel serve as a m irror to look into the
reality o our own lives. It’s a work o ction that captures the
distorted aspects o human lie in contemporary times.
THROUGH HER EYES Jung’s reality isn’t always such a cynical,
dark world. At the end o You Don’t Know, the author writes:
“I suddenly elt that I’d never really know them. Silently, I put
one oot in ront o the other toward that place.” Te ending
ultimately provides the reader with a ray o hope.
“I was cynical or a long time, but I changed aer getting
married,” Jung admits. “Even when I’m hard at work, writing
in my study, I have to think o what I’ll make or dinner, not to
mention thinking o my husband and child.”
“I I once approached everything in an objective, analytical
way, today I’m inclined to rst eel a sense o empathy. For
example, when I used to hear that a child had been killed in an
accident, I would wonder what led to the accident and how I’d
approach it i I were using it as the b asis o a story. Now I hear
the same news and wish I hadn’t heard about it at all. While
people tell me I’ve become a more compassionate person, I
worry about that as a writer because a writer needs to keep a
sharp handle on reality and in my case cold, analytic insighthas been replaced by empathy.”
Jung says she draws inspiration or her ction rom casual
banter at bars, stories that she hears in the course o her day
and intriguing news articles. She is careul to never neglect the
daily events and incidents in lie, because she uses these oen
overlooked moments as the basis or her work. S o what makes
her want to continue writing?
“I always think about this question, but it’s hard to answer.
I just want to show what reality means to me and how people
live in this place, through my own lter. Tat’s the kind o
ction I think about. O course, what’s important is not simply
writing, but making my writing elicit sympathy rom readers.
However intriguing a story may be, i the story makes a reader
think, ‘Who am I and what am I doing with my lie?’ then it’s a
success,” Jung says.
“Sometimes people ask me, ‘Why does your ction have
no conclusion?’ Well, the thing is, there’s no xed ending in
people’s lives. A woman might say that she’ll break up with
her boyriend i he’s unaithul to her, but when it actually happens she ends up still wanting to believe in him. Tat’s lie.
I think the same idea can b e applied to literature. I like to write
ction that allows readers to participate and draw their own
conclusions.”
MY SWEET SEOUL
The main character in My Sweet Seoul (2006)
is Oh Eun-su, a single woman in her 30s who
has been working at the same company for
seven years. Written in an engaging style, the
story details the lives of young people today,
many of whom suffer from a general malaise
because of a lack of options and motivation.
The novel starts with an interesting question:
What would you do on an ex’s wedding day?
Although Eun-su is single, most of those
around her feel she’s old enough to be
married. Instead of being mature, however,
she stubbornly maintains that she is “a grown
child who avoids heavy words like
responsibility and obligation; a voluntary minor.” Three men then come into
Eun-su’s life, all around the same time: Tae-oh, an aspiring movie director who
is years younger than Eun-su; Yu-jun, a friend and lecturer at a private
educational institute; and Young-su, who appears to be a great marriage
prospect and someone whom she was introduced to by her boss. The novel
uncovers what happens in the course of these three men’s relationships with
Eun-su. A strong voice and a fast-paced sense of action are the main strengths
of this novel, which people have a hard time putting down once they’ve started
reading. Towards the conclusion, Jung writes, “I’m 32. I have nothing, achieved
nothing. There’s no one who loves me to death and no one whom I love to
death. Is this melancholic freedom or free melancholy? Can I start life over
again from nothing?” Young readers were quick to identify with the
protagonist’s philosophical dilemma and the book became a bestseller, often
making news even while being released as a serial in the Chosun Ilbo
newspaper. The popular novel was adapted into a TV mini-series drama in
2008 and a musical in 2009. It has since been translated to Chinese.
REPRESENTATIVE WORK
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16 | korea | september 2011
people
www.korea.net | 17
ucked away in central Seoul, Sohn
Hye-won’s oce is ound in what
appears to be a cozy house, rather than
an oce building. A brown and white-
spotted Brittany is the rst to run out
at the sound o the doorbell. Sohn, the
creative director o branding company
Crosspoint, and her sta raise a dog
and cat there. “We’ve had them since we
moved into this building in 2001. Tey
keep us company, especially when we
have to work late nights. o designers,
nature is the greatest teacher,” Sohn says.
Sohn is amous or her Midas touch
— she repackages a brand, and it
becomes instant gold. Familiar brand
names in Korea like Hillstate (apartment
complex), Cheoeum Cheoreom (distilled
liquor) and Raison (cigarettes) are all
part o her oeuvre. Afer majoring in the
applied arts at Hongik University, Sohn
started working at Crosspoint in the
late ’80s. Many, including hersel, soon
realized her knack or marketing, and
she ended up buying the company in
1990. She has been running Crosspoint
ever since, and is currently an associate
proessor o industrial art at her alma
mater and a member o the Presidential
Council on Nation Branding.
Afer working in corporate branding
or many years, the chic marketing
expert ell in love with the unexpected
ve years ago: Korean traditional crafs.
Enchanted by their classic charm, she
directed several projects eaturing
the art, like the exhibit at Avenuel last
summer, which showcased hundreds o
works by 98 artisans. An international
design convention at the COEX last
winter introduced six Korean traditional
crafs: hanok, housing; hanbok, clothing;
Hanji, paper made o mulberry;Hangeul , the Korean alphabet; hansik,
ood; and Gugak, traditional music.
Sohn also began collecting traditional
crafs that had been acquired by Japan
during the colonial period (1910-1945).
About 300 small tables, closets, drawers
and ornaments are saeguarded in a
warehouse near her oce. “It started out
as a hobby. I thought it would be nice to
make a contribution to the country and
uture generations by buying the items
and later donating them to the National
Museum o Korea. But beore I knew
it, I became obsessed. My collection
now ranges rom items rom the Joseon
Dynasty (1392-1910) to Japan’s colonial
period,” Sohn says.
She is especially interested in
najeonchilgi, or lacquerware inlaid
with mother-o-pearl, o which she
has several pieces. Te craf is a several
thousands-o-years-old technique that is
among the most intricate in the world,
Sohn explains. “Najeonchilgi is made
with seashells ound in the southern sea
near ongyeong, Gyeongsangnam-do
Province, where warm and cold currents
meet. Te colors are proound and
mysterious, and coupled with Korean
artisans’ dexterous skills, it would behard not to be beautiul,” Sohn says.
“Najeonchilgi has mesmerized the
world since its peak in the Goryeo
Dynasty (918-1392). During the
Sohn Hye-won is a master o coming up with iconicproduct names and promoting brand identities. hemarketing expert ell in love with Korean traditional cratsand has since made it her lietime goal to introduce themto the world. by Park Min-young | photographs by Park Jeong-roh
Japanese colonial period, the Japanese
loved the craf so much that many made
it a habit to buy a new piece every time
they went to Jongno-gu in central Seoul,
where najeonchilgi shops were ound in
every other building. Even today, cheap
najeonchilgi card holders are popular
among oreign tourists visiting the Insa-
dong neighborhood. Te only problem
is that the people have orgotten its
beauty and value.”
Using her talents to persuade people
o its aesthetics, Sohn decided to
revitalize and promote najeonchilgi
overseas. Her rst goal is to exhibit the
crafwork at the International Furniture
Salon in Milan. Te key to do that, she
emphasizes, is to modernize the craf,
not imitate the past.
“Te handicraf has evolved over
the years. It adapted a Peruvian mosaic
technique during the Goryeo Dynasty,
and the 10 traditional symbols o
longevity appeared on them in the
middle o the Joseon Dynasty (1392-
1910). But we have done nothing to
improve it in recent years. What we need
to do is modernize najeonchilgi so that
it can be remembered as a 21st-century
version o the handicraf,” says Sohn.
Sohn has b een contacting najeonchilgi
artisans throughout the nation to teach
them recent design trends. She even
sent ve Important Intangible Cultural
Property-titled artisans to the Milan
show in April. It won’t be easy, but Sohn
believes they will be able to exhibit their
najeonchilgi at the Milan show as early
as next year. She will also open a high-
end, modernized Korean traditional
crafs boutique in Seoul this month.
“In about three to ve years, I’ll hand
down the company to my sta and ully devote mysel to the globalization o
Korean traditional craf. My dream is
to see it blossom in the world o the 21st
century,” says Sohn.
Sohn Hye-won, director of the branding companyCrosspoint, is famous for her design knack andability to modernize Korean traditions (opposite).Sohn’s warehouse is a haven for Korean crafts,such as najeonchilgi (top to bottom).
ModernizingTraditional
Crafts
Sohn Hye-won
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great korean
© S
o h n K e e - c h u n g M e m o r i a l F o u n d a t i o n ; N a t i o n a l M u s e u m o
f K o r e a ( r i g h t b o t t o m )
While it may not seem odd that an ancient Greek bronze helmet rom the6th century BC is housed in the National Museum o Korea, what is unique
is that it is recognized as reasure No 904. he helmet was presented tomarathoner Sohn Kee-chung as an award when he won the gold medal at
the 1936 Summer Olympics. by Seo Dong-chul
Marathoner Sohn Kee-chung was the
rst Korean to win an Olympic track
event, and running had been a part o
his lie since childhood. Born in Sinuiju,
now in North Korea, in 1912, Sohn
helped his amily make ends meet by
doing odd jobs around town, including
deliveries that had the boy running all
day long. By the time he was 16, Sohn
ound a job in Dandong, China, and
he ran 8 kilometers to and rom work
every day as he didn’t have money or
transportation.
Tough he ran out o necessity r ather
than by choice, Sohn’s anity or long
distance running was apparent rom an
early age. When he was just 12 years old,
he won the An-Ui rack Competition,
a 5,000m event that stretched rom
Sinuiju to Antung. Later, he chose to
attend Seoul’s Yangjeong High School,
which was amous or its track team.
From 1933 to 1936, Sohn won 10 o
the 13 marathons he ran in Korea and
Japan, qualiying or the Olympic team.
Excited as he was to b e competing in the
international event, his heart was heavy.
Sohn was to compete not or Korea, but
as a marathoner or Japan, which had
colonized the country in 1910.
On Aug 9, 1936, Sohn surprised the
world with his win in the marathon
event. Te little-known athlete rom East
Asia pummeled his competition witha time o 2 hours 29 minutes and 19
seconds, breaking the Olympic record.
His win was bittersweet, however, as
the Japanese ag was raised upon his
The Bittersweet Victory of
Sohn Kee-chung
Sohn Kee-chung runs themarathon at the 1936Summer Olympics(opposite). Sohn triesto hide the Japaneseflag on his chest atthe awards ceremony
(top left). Sohn runs in
a marathon (topcenter). Sohn, secondfrom left, is presentedwith an honoraryGreek helmet (topright). Treasure No904 (left).
victory and it was the Japanese national
anthem that rang through the stadium.
Tough the gold medal hung rom his
neck and a laurel wreath decorated his
crown, Sohn’s ace was dark. A photo o
the awards ceremony depicts Sohn with
his head bowed.
In a legendary incident, the
Choson JungAng Ilbo and Dong-a Ilbo
newspapers printed photographs o
Sohn on the medals po dium with
the Japanese ag blotted out rom his
uniorm. In retaliation, the colonial
government shut down the Choson
JungAng , and publication o the Dong-a
was suspended or nine months.
By the time Korea was liberated rom
Japanese colonial rule in 1945, Sohn
had become a running coach, training
Korean marathoners or international
competitions. He coached Suh Yun-
bok and Nam Sung-yong or the
1947 Boston Marathon, with Suh
winning the race.
From that point on, Sohn was
a constant source o support orKorean marathoners. He held a
number o positions through
the years, including chairman o
the Korea Association o Athletics
Federations and a member o the
Korean Olympic Committee. He is also
said to have had a key role in winning
Seoul the right to host the 1988 Summer
Olympics, and was given the honor
o being the nal runner to carry the
Olympic torch.
Although the gold medal won by Sohn
in Berlin is still recorded as a Japanese
victory, his dream o seeing a Korean
track athlete draped in a Korean ag
nally came true in Barcelona in 1992
— a ull 56 years afer Berlin. Hwang
Young-cho, the marathon gold medalist,
stood in ront o the elderly Sohn beore
placing the gold medal around his role
model’s neck.
Tus, the Greek bronze helmet on
display at the National Museum o
Korea carries a place in local history.
A reminder o the nation’s turbulent
past, the helmet is a symbol o hope
and pride. Sohn, who died in 2002,
said upon donating the helmet to the
museum, “Tis helmet does not belong
to me, but to our nation.”
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www.korea.net | 21
and breads. One o their best
sellers is the cannelés bordelais,
a traditional pastry originating
rom Bordeaux. Te palm-
sized delight eatures a crisp,
caramelized shell that gives
way to a custard-like inside.
Founder Jeong Hong-
yeon is a premiere
patisserie, and his shop
showcases everything
rom perect macaroons
to delicate chocolates
and caramel éclairs.
O course, the French are
not only known or their sweets. Tere
are several wine shops, with imports
rom Europe and North America,
which can help quench one’s thirst.
Wine Nara has been a mainstay in the
neighborhood since 2003 and oers a
cool basement space or connoisseurs
and explorers. Te busy shop sells
40 to 50 b ottles a day, with prices
ranging rom a reasonable 19,000 won
(US$17.60) or a basic red to the nest
French vintage at 1.8 million won
(US$1,668) a bottle.
Other culinary hints o truly French
authenticity can be ound in the
secretive, basement restaurant o La
Saveur, or even the local branch o the
chain bakery Paris Croissant — which
employs a French patisserie and imports
our rom France.
CHINATOWN Seoul might be the only
major metropolitan area in the world
to lack a distinguished Chinatown.Putting this act aside, however, the area
surrounding the Yeonhui and Yeonnam-
dong neighborhoods in western Seoul
serves as a de acto “Little China.”
20 | korea | september 2011
Korea is now home to more than 1
million expatriates, more than a quarter
o which live in the capital. Over the past
several decades, the increasing expat
population has led to several immigrant-
concentrated neighborhoods, where
outside cultures have come to meld with
Korea’s. Tese uniquely hybrid areas
allow locals a rare opportunity to step
into a dierent — though perhaps not
quite traditional — world.
THE FRENCH QUARTER Te area o
Seorae Maeul (“maeul” means village in
Korean) in southern Seoul is a dynamic,
ever-changing neighborhood known or
its concentration o French residents.
Gone are the multi-lane thorougharesand rushed pace o inner-city Seoul,
and in its place is a two-way street with
groups o twos and threes strolling
leisurely to restaurants and caés.
Home to roughly 420 French
nationals, the area o Seorae Maeul
was rst developed in 1985 with the
relocation o the Lycée Français de Séoul
to the neighborhood. Te school became
the center point o the expat population,
many o whom came to Seoul in the
1990s as major French corporations
entered the Korean market.
Tough the area today encompasses
more o a European eel than a uniquely
French one, the neighborhood still oerssnippets o authenticity tucked into
corners and alleyways. Hôtel Douce, an
intimate bakery aliated with a nearby
pastry school, provides French desserts
seoul
© D
o n g - a I l b o ( o p p o s i t e t o
p )
Korea’s immigrant and expat population continues to grow, andwith the rise o diversity, multicultural neighborhoods oer apeek into other worlds and cuisines. by Ines Min | photographs by Choi Ji-young
Cultural Clusters
Jin Bo has freshseafood cuisineon its menu and avariety of privaterooms areavailable for amore intimatefamily setting(right above).A variety ofimported alcoholand preserves can
be purchased atJin Bo, a popularrestaurant in theYeonhui andYeonnam-dongneighborhoods(right).
Daehwa Mart
Hongbok
Wine Nara
Express BusTerminalStation
Hongik UnivStation
↖
↖
Hôtel Douce
Paris Croissant
Customers leave aParis Croissant bakeryin the Frenchneighborhood ofSeorae Maeul (left).Residents take a strolldown the main streetof Seorae Maeul on awarm day (oppositetop). The local Frenchschool attracts expatsto the neighborhood(opposite bottom).
Ten to Ten
Lycée Français de Séoul
Yi Hwa Won
Jin Bo
Hae Ji Yeon
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22 | korea | september 2011 www.korea.net | 23
some 1,000 Japanese residents
can best be experienced by the multitude
o cuisine to be had.
In the 1990s, the neighborhood
began to attract amilies o Japanese
immigrants with its low-cost, well-kept
housing. As the years went on, a close-
knit community grew and today the
quiet neighborhood is dominated by tall,
majestic trees and the call o the cicada.
Mono Mart, a 10-year-old haven or
Japanese cooks and candy-lovers, is
a tiny enclave lled to the brim withbrightly-wrapped sweets such as corn
avored tay and a range o Japanese
sauces, rozen sh and snacks. Next door
is Sanuki, a noodle house that oers a
Every chuseok, amilies indulge in a bito olklore via the age-old tradition o
songpyeon. hese colorul, ragrant hal-moons contain history, culture andlegend. by Ines Min
Chuseok, Korean Tanksgiving Day, is Korea’s biggest
holiday o the year. Family members gather at their homes
to celebrate the year’s bountiul harvest and also take time
to pay their respects to ancestors. It is this latter tradition
that calls or songpyeon , or steamed, hal moon-shaped
rice cakes. Tough generally known as tteok, which are
oered to the ghosts o ancestors in order to appease the
spirits, this particular variety o rice cake is oered during
chuseok’s ancestral r ites o charye.
Tough tteok is consumed year-round, songpyeon is
associated with the harvest holiday as it was originally
made with the rst rice crops. oday, they can be bought at
any time o year, in a variety o colors and avors.
Songpyeon are small, walnut-sized cakes that can contain
a variety o llings, such as mixtures o chestnuts, jujubes,
red bean, sesame or honey. Te “song” in its name, which
means “pine tree,” reveals the traditional process o making
the treat. Rice our, salt and boiling water are combined
to make the shell, with a dab o sweetened lling placed
inside the hollow center. Te cakes are then individually shaped by hand and steamed over a bed o pine needles.
According to local olklore, people who create beautiully-
shaped songpyeon will be blessed with beautiul daughters.
Te pine needles in the nal step o steaming help
keep the cakes rom sticking together and adds a subtle
ragrance that truly distinguishes songpyeon. Recently,
studies have shown that pine needles have health benets,
as the trees produce large amounts o phytoncide — which
kills germs and viruses in the air.
A range o other ingredients can be added to the recipe,
rom ssuk (mugwort) to aromatic owers. Dierent
combinations o herbs and ruits are what create the
varieties o songpyeon — rom
dark green to light pink —
and a whole palette o unique
avors. Songpyeon recipestypically vary rom region to
region, as amilies integrate
the most abundant crops into
the cake.
favor
© K
o r e a T o u r i s m O
r g a n i z a
t i o n
Handmade songpyeonis made for the chuseok holiday.
Tough Chinese have lived in Korea or
generations, large groups began to move
to the area in the 1960s, ollowing the
establishment o the Overseas Chinese
High School in Yeonhui-dong.
Te most notable aspect o the
unocial Chinatown, which centers on
a long side street, is the prominence o
Chinese restaurants, each specializing
in distinct dishes. Yi Hwa Won oers a
quiet atmosphere coupled with lling
course meals, while other eateries
prepare Uygur-inspired lamb skewers.
At Jin Bo, a two-story restaurant
opened more than a decade ago, resh
seaood stews and chicken and hot
pepper stir-ry are popular. Te menuis a usion o Chinese and aiwanese
oods. “Our restaurant is popular among
aiwanese and Chinese diplomats, but
also Koreans as well,” says manager
Cheng Gye-hye, a fh generation
aiwanese expatriate. “Our interior
design makes people eel as i they’re in
an actual restaurant in China, and our
ood caters well to their tastes.”
For the more adventurous, you can
try your own hand at cooking a Chinese
meal with the ingredients available at
Daehwa Mart — a small grocery store
that specializes in imported goods.
Tough it is dicult to nd singularly
authentic Chinese, Cantonese,aiwanese or Uygur cuisine in Seoul’s
Chinatown, it is the propagation o a
new, adapted culture that makes this
area worth a visit.
JAPANTOWN Te Japanese
neighborhood o Seoul is located in
Dongbu Ichon-dong, and is better
known as “Little okyo.” Te tree-lined
main street lies opposite a public school,
and the inuence o the neighborhood’s
Cafe Moss offersa variety offlavorfulmochi ice cream, smallrice cakes filledwith ice cream,fruit fillings orfrozen yogurt(left above).Fresh fish isgrilled in thesemi-openkitchen ofGookhwa (farleft). A chef atGookhwa tendsto his skewers,which burst with
seafood, garlic,nuts and meats(left).
rereshing bowl o soba, and Mori Sushi,
pulling in customers with its resh catch.
Gookhwa is an izakaya comprised
o a semi-open kitchen and grill that
welcomes you as soon as you walk in.
Customers sit at a low bar counter, where
they can check out the day’s oerings o
large whelk and sailn sandsh straight
rom the southern coast. Skewers o
ginkgo nuts, garlic, Pacic saury and
mushrooms line the grill and a ull,
seasonal menu o Japanese dishes can
be enjoyed. An assortment o high-end
sakes and Asahi on draf are available.
Japanese inuences can be seen
throughout the neighborhood, rom the
presence o mochi ice cream (a rice cake
lled with rozen cream) to the ubiquity
o shops that either carry Japanese ood
or specialize in the cuisine.Tough France, China and Japan may
be miles away, one can indulge in the
tastes o these major world destinations
rom right within the heart o Seoul.
Cafe Moss
Gookhwa
Mono Mart
Azabu
Ryu
Mori SushiSanuki
SongpyeonSecrets of
Franchised and independent
tteok shops can be find
throughout Seoul. In particular,
Insa-dong is famous for its
variety of quirky homemade
shops and hidden alleys lined
with outdoor displays of tteok.
HOT SPOTS
Ichon Station↖
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travel
Finding Design in GWANGJU
Mount Mudeungsan stands guard
over Gwangju Metropolitan City.
Te surrounding area comprises a
provincial park, connecting Gwangju to
its neighboring counties. A landmark
o the city, Mt Mudeungsan is known
or its gradual slope, which makes it an
easy climb to the amous trio o peaks:Cheonwangbong, Jiwangbong and
Inwangbong. From the top, massive
columns o rock ormations can be seen
— 40m-long ridges o 10m- to 18m-high © T o p i c I m a g e s
pillars that rise toward the blue sky
above.
Te people o Gwangju are said to
be as great as their guardian mountain.
Full o vigor, passion and a love o
nature, the citizens here have an eye
or beauty. Having established the now
internationally-recognized GwangjuBiennale in 1995, a major art e vent held
every two years, the city continues on
its path o art evolution with its ourth
Gwangju Design Biennale.
he 4th Gwangju Design Biennale opens this month in the southern city. From Sept 2to Oct 23, Gwangju will be illed with the excited buzz o artists and designers,converging on the heart o Korea’s art history.by Chung Dong-muk | photographs by Kim Hong-jin
DESIGN IS NOT DESIGN Tis year’s
edition o the still relatively-young
design biennale is spearheaded by the
motto dogadobisangdo, which translates
to “design is design is not design.” Te
existentially-themed event presents
the changing concepts, practices and
potential o contemporary design,and provides a new platorm or the
signicance o Asia in the art world.
Inspired by the opening lines o Laozi’s
Tao Te Ching — “Te way that is the way
A view of the rock pillars on Mt Mudeungsan
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26 | korea | september 2011 www.korea.net | 27
is not always the way” — the biennale
seeks to re-examine and redene the
undamentals o design today.
“Tese days, design rules. Most local
governments in Korea are desperately
trying to build design-based cities,” says
amed architect Seung H-Sang, art co-director o the ourth Gwangju Design
Biennale alongside Chinese artist Ai
Weiwei. “But I have a dierent view as
an architect. Giving something a name
with the word ‘design’ in it, doesn’t mean
that it really is design. Painting suraces
and installing objects do not necessarily
result in a design-based city or products
with good design.”
A total o 129 artists and 74
companies rom 44 countries will exhibit
132 works in the 2011 Gwangju Design
Biennale. Te biennale is divided into
six main categories, then subdivided
again to ocus on the dierent areas
o lie in which design is key, such as“environment” and “home.” Tough
design was once seen as secondary to
unction, it has grown to prominence
as a conceptual balance o aesthetics, © G w a n g j u D e s i g n B i e n n a l e ( o p p o s i t e a b o v e l e f t ) ; K o r e a T o u r i s m O r g a n i z a t i o n ( o p p o s i t e b e l o w l e f t )
technology and e conomy.
Te changing o the times also
brought an accessibility to good designthat didn’t exist beore. Instead o being
a luxury that only those with time and
money could aord, good design is
increasingly available to all people, at all
HOW TO GET THEREAirplane
Flights
depart from
Gimpo Int’l
Airport to
Gwangju Airport
seven times a day.
It takes 55
minutes. For more
information, call+82 62 940 0214
or visit http://
gwangju.airport.
co.kr. Travelers
can get to downtown Gwangju by shuttle bus (No
1000) from the Gwangju Airport. For more
information about the shuttle, call +82 62 364
4221. Shuttle buses also run from Incheon Int’l
Airport to Gwangju at intervals of 30 to 60 minutes
from 6:50am to 10:40pm every day. It takes about
four hours. Call +82 62 360 8114.
Train High-speed KTX trains run from
Yongsan Station in Seoul to Songjeong
Station in Gwangju nine times a day on weekdays.
It takes about 2 hours and 50 minutes. Call +82
1544 7788 for more information or visit http://info.
korail.com/2007/eng/eng_index.jsp.
Bus Express buses run from Central City
Express Bus Terminal in Seoul to Express Bus
Terminal in Gwangju at intervals of 30 minutes. It
takes about 3 hours and 30 minutes. For more
information, call Express Bus Terminal in Gwangju
(+82 62 360 8114) or visit www.kobus.co.kr.
WHERE TO STAYGwangju has plenty of hotel and motel
accommodations as the city hosts a variety
of international events, like the Gwangju Biennale.
Check out the five-star Ramada Plaza Gwangju
Hotel (+82 62 717 7000) or the four-star hotels
Prado Tourists Hotel (+82 62 654 9999) and
Shinyang Park Hotel (+82 62 228 8000). Many
motels and inns are located in the Sangmu District.
TRAVEL INFORMATION
Gwangju Museumof Art
A Gwangju DesignBiennale banner
Gwangju
Seoul
A view of Gwangju city (top left). Locals walk byan advertisement announcing the 2011 GwangjuDesign Biennale (top). Tteok-galbi is a popularlocal dish (above).
Ghana sculptorEric AdjeteyAnang will builda traditional,Ghanaian-stylecoffin withKoreaninfluences forthe 2011Gwangju DesignBiennale (left).
price levels. With this progress, the idea
o what design is changes entirely.
CITY OF ART Tis year’s biennale
centralizes on two words: “name” and
“place.” Working with the idea that
everything around us is design, it canbe said that “named” design are objects
like cars, while “unnamed” designs are
those that are not recognized, but which
in act have an impact on our every
lives. Similarly, “placed” and “unplaced”
design is executed not only within
the walls o the biennale venue, but
throughout the city as a whole.
Gwangju Folly, one o the biennale
categories, has amous artists create
installations at public acilities in
rundown areas and call attention to the
aesthetics o overlooked neighborhoods.
Tis section o the biennale hopes
to rejuvenate the city with a design
makeover, creating decorative structuresas part o a long-term, 10-year project
with the help o international architects.
Juan Herreros has taken on the
Jangdong Rotary to redesign, and
Peter Eisenman is in charge o the
Chungjangno Police Station. Others
will transorm university entrances
and more. “When it comes to design,
many people will think about industrial
design. But the Gwangju Design
Biennale is dierent; this event ocuseson delivering cultural and social
messages,” says Cho In-ho, head o the
Policy Research eam at the Gwangju
Biennale Foundation.
LAND OF FOOD Gwangju is not only
known or its strong art culture, but
also or its range o cuisine. Located at
the heart o Jeollanam-do Province, the
region is at the center o the South and
Yellow Seas, and has ertile earth rom
the Yeongsangang River and the streams
that fow down Mudeungsan, Woraksan
and Jirisan Mountains. Local cuisine is
rich in sh, wild herbs and ragrant rice.
Tere are our representative disheso Gwangju: Songjeong tteok-galbi (a
tender steak made o ribs), Mudeungsan
boribap (broiled barley with assorted
vegetables), oritang (duck soup) and
Gwangju kimchi (ermented cabbage).
Te best place to nd tteok-galbi is
at Songjeong-dong’s teok-galbi Street,
located across rom the KX Songjeong
Station. Te neighborhood is home to a
traditional market and bee is one o the
major items o trade.It was Choi Cheo-ja who rst made
tteok-galbi in the 1950s, tenderizing
minced meat patties made rom ribs.
Te melt-in-your-mouth tteok-galbi
was perect or those in weakened
health, and the dish soon took o in
the area. oday, the area has 15 tteok-
galbi restaurants and among them Sea
Songjeong teok-galbi (+82 62 941
3353) and Songwon teok-galbi (+82 62
944 0366) are the most popular.
Mudeungsan Boribap Street can be
ound along the trail that leads to Mt
Mudeungsan. Te dish is a healthy way
to energize the body beore a hike, as
its main ingredients are barley, a variety o resh vegetables, gochujang red
pepper paste and sesame oil. Check out
Shieoganeun Boribap (+82 62 222 0208)
and Haenim (+82 62 224 2260).
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now in korea
© N
o r e u m M
a c h i
It’s 6pm and the husky yellow o dusk lls a room
behind the stage at the Grand Ballroom o the
RitzCarlton Hotel. Five women busily prepare
or their big show, aces ushed with excitement
aer a seamless rehearsal practice. Tis is Queen,
a popular usion Gugak (Korean traditional
music) group, and they’re about to hit the stage.
o ully embody their music, the members
o Queen are outtted in coordinated, stylish
dresses, decorated with traditional hanbok
(Korean dress) air. In the place o the long
hemmed traditional wear, miniskirts o organza
and stilettos mark their image. Four o the
ve carry Korean traditional instruments - a
gayageum (12stringed zither), haegeum (a ddlelike instrument), sogeum (a small bamboo ute)
and an electric violin - while the h is vocalist.
Queen perorms the Korean olk song Doraji
to an upbeat tempo but mixes in contemporary
Western hits, rom Dancing Queen to Hey Jude.
“Playing usion Gugak is so interesting, because
the addition o movement and dance to the
perormance helps create a dynamic ambiance,”
says gayageum player Kim Hyunah, who
majored in the instrument at university.
THE REBIRTH OF GUGAK What do Sarah
Brightman, Lim Hyungjoo, Sumi Jo and Yang
Bangean have in common? Except the act
that they are all gied musicians, the answer
is “usion.” Brightman gripped the world withthe popera hit Time to Say Goodbye and Lim is
Korea’s popera star. Jo broadened her musical
domain rom classical to include pop, and Yang
created new genres by combining international
o most young Koreans, Gugak, ortraditional music, isn’t regarded as
particularly earcatching. However, a usionGugak renaissance is growing.by Lim Ji-young | photographs by Kim Nam-heon
Fusion Gugak group Noreum Machi p erforms a lively concert.
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Fusion Korea, which was established by a geomungo (six
stringed zither) player, is one such representative company
and manages several groups, including Queen. “We are
ooded with inquiries or concerts, and we choose which one
o our Gugak teams would best t the characteristics and scale
o each request,” says representative Kim Changil. Kim says
he wants to combine dynamic Western music with Korean
traditional music in order to create a new style o musical
perormance.
LAYMEN TO LOVERS Te rise o usion Gugak has beenspurred by a number o events and estivals, and reaching
a diverse audience has b een key. “I never thought I’d enjoy
Gugak. I didn’t even like learning about it in school. But
now, I think that Gugak is pretty un and exciting,” says
Choi Sunghee, an elementary school student who was
visiting Marronnier Park with her parents to see a Gugak
medley perormance. Te concert, held in the art district o
Daehangno, was part o the rst annual Marronnier Summer
Festival, a twoweek event that includes a host o shows.
www.korea.net | 31 30 | korea | september 2011
Most o the audience members were young, with several even
swinging their hips to the rhythm o the Gugak.
“Tis is my rst usion Gugak concert. I know next to
nothing about Korean traditional music, but even or a novice
like me this show has been pretty interesting,” says 22yearoldKim Hyunsoo. While traditional orms o Gugak appeal to a
largely older audience, the quick pace and modern reworkings
o usion Gugak have been luring youthul listeners.
“We wanted to attract and bring in more young people to
the Daehangno area with the estival, and we gured that there
would be nothing better than multidisciplinary perormances
like usion Gugak,” says Kim Gapsu, popular actor and
director o the estival. Te event was held in order to establish
the area as a youthul, cultural o asis, and the inclusion o
Gugak was indicative o the genre’s return to being hip.
KOREA AND THE WORLD Fusion Gugak’s reach has now
extended to overseas audiences with the help o homegrown
bands and the government. Te Seoul Metropolitan
Government launched a campaign to promote usion Gugak
through an ocial European tour that will see one o Korea’stop bands participate in estivals in France, the Netherlands,
Germany and Croatia. Noreum Machi, which combines a
number o Korean music traditions into an ensemble group,
has played in a variety o domestic and international venues.
olk instruments rom Korea, China, Japan and Mongolia. It is
this usion that helped inspire Gugak’s own renaissance.
Te traditional music dates back to the Tree Kindoms
Period (57BC to AD668), moving rom court entertainment
to culture or commoners. raditional orms o Gugak survive
today, along with some 60 traditional instruments, but
have long been thought to be inaccessible to most modern
audiences. Attempts to modernize the music were made, and
popinuenced Gugak rst emerged in the early 1980s with
easylistening melodies and lyrics. Although usion Gugak
would not become successul or decades, those rst versionsplanted the roots or it to become a national phenomenon.
Artists modiy Gugak to create playul variations o such
wellknown melodies like Pachelbel’s Canon and even beats
or bboying. Fusion Gugak rst made waves through the
media, as V shows and movies began to include the new
genre as background music in production. Beore long, the
impressive, yet amiliar, sound o usion Gugak became a hit,
and today, there are even management companies or bands
that specialize in the genre.
© F
u s i o n K o r e a ( o p p o s i t e
b o t t o m ) ; Y o n h a p N e w s A g e n c y
A number o bands
are making their names
known overseas. Gong
Myoung, a ourman
group, has played a variety o international estivals,
rom South by Southwest
in the US to the Førde
Folk Music Festival in
Norway. Te band places
an emphasis on percussion
and rhythm, with complex
arrangements o the
daegeum (a large bamboo
ute), the sogeum, piri (a
doublereed instrument) and
a janggu (an hourglass shaped drum).
Yeoul, an allemale gayageum quartet, became a hit aer
their debut in 2003 with their catchy music. Te group only
plays gayageum, as they eel other instruments overwhelm its
sound, and even invented an electric version in 2005.Other groups have been on the r ise, combining jazz with
Gugak or covering OSs. Te spectrum o Gugak groups is
wide. From cofeeshops to temples and parks, a usion Gugak
concert is sure to always be just around the corner.
Queen takes a moment before aperformance at the Ritz-CarltonHotel (right). The five-membergroup Queen plays a set (below).
Gugak performances can be seen in
venues across Korea. The Seoul
Namsan Gugakdang, a traditional
theater at the Namsangol Hanok
Village, organizes concerts
throughout the year. To visit, take
Subway Line 4 to Chungmuro
Station and exit No 3. Visit http://
sngad.sejongpac.or.kr. Another
venue is the National Gugak Center
in southern Seoul. Take Subway
Line 3 to Nambu Bus Terminal
Station and exit No 5. Visit www.
gugak.go.kr.
GUGAK VENUES
GAYAGEUM A zither that can haveanywhere from 12 to 25strings. An electric versionhas also been made.
HAEGEUM A string instrumentthat resembles afiddle. A thin neck,hollow soundbox andsilk strings are strungwith a bow.
SOGEUM A small bamboo flutethat is held like itsWestern counterpart.
JANGGU An hourglass-shaped drumthat is beat witha stick.
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www.korea.net | 33 32 | korea | september 2011
It’s no se cret that K-pop has spread like wildre throughout
Asia, moving into neighboring Europe and even gaining ans
in North America. Now, Latin America is the latest region
to be hit with Hallyu, the Korean wave, with countries romMexico to Chile joining the trend.
With the number o ans growing every day, and the
demand or K-pop becoming stronger, events are popping up
all over the region. One o the biggest is an annual K-Pop Latin © K
o r e a n C u l t u r a l C e n t e r o f L a t i n A m e r i c a
entertainment
America Competition, held in Buenos Aires. Te competition
allows K-pop ans in South America to live out their dreams
by either singing or dancing along to songs by their avorite
Korean idols on stage. But only one winner or winning groupcan take home the coveted grand prize — a ree trip to Korea.
Te event is organized each year by the Korean Cultural
Center o Latin America and the Korean Embassy there, along
with several local media sponsors. Last ye ar’s contest was the
rst K-pop competition to be held on an international scale in
the country, with a total o 92 teams rom 10 countries across
Latin America perorming songs by groups or singers rom
SHINee to Girls’ Generation.
Tis year’s event, however, has doubled in size, highlighting
just how quickly K-pop is growing. According to the Korean
Cultural Center, a total o 171 teams rom 14 countries —
including Argentina, Bolivia, Brazil, Costa Rica, El Salvador,
Guatemala, Mexico, Nicaragua, Paraguay, Peru, the Dominican
Republic, Uruguay and Venezuela — applied to compete this
year in two categories: song and dance. Te center said they hope the event will help Hallyu spread in Argentina, since
it has already gained prominence in other countries such as
Mexico, Chile and Peru.
O the competing 171 teams, 15 nalists were selected or
the nal on Sept 11 at the Sala Pablo Picasso del Paseo La
Plaza. Each group submitted an application on the contest
website in May, and auditioned either in person or via video.
A jury selected the nalists rom the preliminary rounds
o auditions. Tis year, the nal 15 hail rom Chile, Peru,
Argentina, Brazil, the Dominican Republic, Costa Rica and
Mexico, with nine groups competing in the singing category
and six in dance.
Last year’s winner, 17-year-old Victoria Lopez rom Buenos
Aires, Argentina, won or her rendition o SHINee’s Hyeya.
On her trip, she was able to visit top Korean entertainment
agency SM Entertainment, see stars perorm on the variety show Music Bank and explore tourist sites such as Insa-dong.
She told local Korean media that she hopes to one day become
an international singer, just like her avorite idols. “It’s a dream
or me to be like Korean artists,” she said in an interview.
While K-pop may be taking baby steps in Argentina, the
teen says that the success o groups like VXQ, SHINee and
Girls’ Generation has been huge in a country where it’s still
dicult to even purchase their merchandise. Te exponential
growth o anbase has led to an increase in Korean media
attention as well. Korean broadcaster SBS announced in July
that it will hold auditions in Argentina or its next season o
the popular show K-Pop Star , providing an opportunity or
avid ans to ulll their dreams a la American Idol ormat.
So why exactly did K-pop become so popular in South
America, a continent thousands o miles rom Korea? Fans
say the craze started when Asian culture was rst introducedto the region through Japanese anime and comic books. From
there, a natural progression o curiosity led to ans becoming
interested in Japanese dramas and music, which then led to
Korean dramas.
Soompi.com, a major Korean music an site, said that
Hallyu gained ollowers quickly in part because the imported
dramas were nothing like their Latin American soap opera
counterparts. Tis new orm o entertainment piqued interest
and ans began to research the artists whose music they heard
on the dramas. Also, several countries in the region, including
Brazil and Chile, have large ethnic Korean populations, which
urther helped introduce Korean culture.
Since it was dicult to gain access to K-pop, many ans
started by watching music videos on the Internet. According
to statistics gathered by Youube and the Korean Network Studies, Super Junior, 2NE1 and Big Bang have some o the
most watched videos on the Internet. A large portion o these
viewers comes rom countries such as Argentina, Brazil, Chile,
Colombia, Mexico and Peru. 2NE1’s video or I Am the Best
reached 5 million views online just a week aer its release,
with a vast majority o its audience rom Brazil.
Gradually, ans began asking local radio and music shows to
play their avorite groups and songs. In Mexico, V Azteca’s
program Venga la alegría does weekly spotlights on Korean
groups during their 90 Segundos segment, which is 90 seconds
o short clips introducing a group, singer or song. Similar
programs in Colombia and Panama have ollowed suit, with
Panama’s radio program Banzai devoting an entire hour to
K-pop, J-pop and J-rock.
And as K-pop grew in popularity, so did the desire or the
groups to visit South America. Some call the past year the
“Year o Flash Mobs,” as large groups o ans congregated
spontaneously in several countries, hoping to attract theattention o Korean entertainment agencies. Peru and Mexico
have been the sites o several o these an fash mobs, and
in response, SM Entertainment has stated it hopes to hold a
concert in Latin America.
Hallyu is no stranger to Asia and Europe. But a unique contest in Argentina has set outto promote K-pop in South America, ueling the wildire o its popularity. by Emma Kalka
Dreams inLatin AmericaK-POP
A group performs at the 2011 K-Pop Latin America Competition prelims(opposite). A contest participant sings for her audition (above left). 2010winner Victoria Lopez, right, stands with her award (above right).
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www.korea.net | 35
Expectations or Son are sky-high,
aer the orward scored a remarkable 18
goals in nine preseason games. Son had
three goals in 13 caps with Hamburger
last season but should see a more
signicant role. “Tis season I want to
score 10 goals,” Son told local media.
In France, current national squad
captain Park Chu-young saw his team,
AS Monaco, relegated rom Ligue 1.
By August, it had become clear thathe would be leaving Monaco or a top
division team somewhere in Europe.
Meanwhile, Nam ae-hee will be looking
to secure a spot on the starting 11 with
Valenciennes. Nam was the
youngest Asian player to ever
play in Ligue 1, when he debuted with
the team in 2009 at age 18. At 20, the
Busan native knows he has a lot o work
ahead o him. “Valenciennes is still a big
team or me. In act, I haven’t conrmed
my starting position in the lineup. I still
have a lot to learn with this club,” Namsaid. “I want to play in the 2014 FIFA
World Cup. Ten, I want to be starter
or Valenciennes. I know I have to work
harder. I’m not satised with where I
34 | korea | september 2011
Te Korean presence in European
ootball is a relatively new phenomenon.
Cha Bum-kun was the rst Korean to
make a mark in Europe in Germany’s
Bundesliga in the early 1980s, but even
at the 2002 FIFA World Cup, the South
Korean roster was made up o a list o virtual unknowns. Only two players
rom that historic squad — Ahn Jung-
hwan and Seol Ki-hyeon — were playing
in Europe at the time. © Y
o n h a p - R e u t e r s ( a b o v e ) ; Y o n h a p N e w s A g e n c y ( o p p o s i t e )
sports
Tere are now at least 12 Korean
players in Europe’s top leagues, and
more are on the way. Park Ji-sung, who
retired rom the national squad earlier
this year, remains Korea’s biggest icon in
world ootball. Park has been an integral
part o one o the world’s best teams,Manchester United, and one o manager
Alex Ferguson’s more reliable players
since the team signed him in 2005. Park
said he believes the Korean presence in
the English Premier League (EPL) will
continue to grow. “More Korean players
will come,” he told Sky Sports News.
“Tere are Korean players who have the
talent to play in Europe. Hopeully they
can come over to play and show how
much Asian ootball has improved.”Korea’s domestic ootball league,
the K-League, has long been among
the strongest in Asia, and in recent
years has been a breeding ground or
international-caliber talent. Te Bolton
Wanderers signed winger Lee Chung-
yong rom FC Seoul in 2009, and the
23-year-old is emerging as one o the
brightest young stars in the EPL. Tis
season, Lee and Park will be joined in
the EPL by 20-year-old striker Ji Dong-
won, who signed with Sunderland aer
playing with Korea’s Chunnam Dragons.
“Te boy has been in antastic
orm or both club and country, andhe was one o South Korea’s standout
perormers at the Asian Cup,” said
Sunderland manager Steve Bruce. “Te
Premier League is very diferent to the
K-League, so there is hard work ahead,
but you just have to look at players like
Park Ji-sung and Lee Chung-yong to see
how well Korean players are adapting.”
In the Bundesliga, Son Heung-
min, 19, and Koo Ja-cheol, 22, have
been targeted or breakout seasons in
2011-2012. Koo joined VL Wolsburg
rom Jeju United back in January andwas prolic at the AFC Asian Cup in
January, scoring a tournament-high ve
goals. He was arguably the K-League’s
best player in 2010.
am right now.” Jung Jo-gook is another
newcomer to Ligue 1, signing with
Auxerre rom FC Seoul back in January.
Te 27-year-old scored two goals in 16
appearances.
Youngster Ki Sung-yueng is part o
Celtic FC, which is expected to win the
Scottish Premier League this season.
Ki scored a goal in the team’s rst game
o the season in July. Both coach Neil
Lennon and Ki hope the highly-talentedyoung midelder can take a step
orward this season. “I’ll try to score as
many goals as I can this
season and I am practicing
my shooting in every training session,”
Ki said. “Last season I got our goals. I
want to score more than six this s eason.”
Ki is joined by deender Cha Du-ri on
the Scottish giants’ roster. Cha had a
long career in the Bundesliga beore
joining Celtic in 2010.
With more Koreans plying their trade
in Europe, the uture o the nationalteam is bright. Even with Park Ji-sung’s
retirement, there will be no lack o talent
as Korea aims or a strong showing at
the 2014 FIFA World Cup in Brazil.
he Korean contingent in the top leagues o European ootball has seen ameteoric rise over the last decade. A crop o rising stars and emerging veteranshave joined the established Korean players, raising the proile o local ootball. by Matt Flemming
Hamburgerforward SonHeung-mincelebrates after agoal (opposite).Clockwise, fromleft: Ji Dong-won;Nam Tae-hee; LeeChung-yong; SonHeung-min; and KiSung-yueng.
FootballersGoWest
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www.korea.net | 39 38 | korea | september 2011
MILESTONE NUCLEAR PACT India
currently operates 20 nuclear reactors,
producing 4,780 megawatts o electricity.
Construction is currently underway to build
six more reactors to add 4,800 megawatts
supply, and the Indian government has an
ambitious project to expand the nuclear
power generation capacity to 63,000
megawatts by 2032.
As o now, Russia, France and the United
States have won contracts to build nuclear
reactors in the lucrative market. Russia is
currently building two and is consulting
to win two more reactor bids. The site
assignments were also made to France and
the United States so that the two countries
will build two reactors each.
Following the signing o the milestone
accord, Lee asked Patil or the Indian
government’s cooperation or Korea’s
participation in the country’s projects.
While many countries around the world
have reconsidered their nuclear power
generation projects in the atermath o
the latest nuclear catastrophes at Japan’spower plants ater the earthquake, India is
still expanding the peaceul use o atomic
energy to keep up with its ast-growing
economy.
Since winning the US$18.6 billion bid to
build our nuclear reactors in the United
Arab Emirates, President Lee Myung-bak
has worked tirelessly to export Korea’s
nuclear plant technologies.
According to Park Jeong-ha, Lee’s
ocial spokesman, Patil said during the
summit she was very impressed by the
saety o Korea’s nuclear plants and the
highly positive evaluation given by theInternational Atomic Energy Agency.
“Nuclear energy supplies 40% o Korea’s
electricity, and we have put orth steady
summit diplomacy
ASIAN ALLIANCES
Asian neighbors have always been important partners o Korea. In July, President LeeMyung-bak held a meeting with the visiting president o India and signed a deal that willcement Korea’s participation in India’s nuclear plant projects. He also met with the king o
Malaysia and discussed ways to expand the two countries’ cooperation. by Ser Myo-ja
In July, President Lee Myung-bak continued
his diplomatic outreach with global
leaders in a signicant summit with India’s
president and a meeting with the king o
Malaysia, both aimed at expanding Korea’s
bilateral cooperative ties with its Asian
neighbors.
President Pratibha Devisingh Patil o
India visited Korea at the invitation o Lee
rom July 24 to 27. During her state visit,
Lee and Patil held a summit at the Korean
presidential oce o the Blue House and
discussed ways or the two countries to
expand bilateral cooperation.
The highlight o the meeting was the
signing o a bilateral nuclear cooperation
pact, a milestone agreement or Lee’s
continuous eorts to export Korea’s atomic
power stations to the ast-growing, energy-
hungry economic giant o Asia.
The agreement or the peaceul use
o atomic energy is an important step
to entering India’s energy market, as it
provides the legal grounds or Korean
companies’ participation in India’s nuclearplant construction projects.
President Lee Myung-bak, second from right,stands with Malaysian King Mizan Zainal Abidin(opposite). Lee toasts with the Indian PresidentPratibha Devisingh Patil (top). Lee shakes handswith Mizan in a summit (above). A conference isheld between Lee and his Indian counterpartPratibha Devisingh Patil (left).
© C h e o n g W a D a e
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www.korea.net | 4140 | korea | september 2011
run Korea Electric Power Corporation
signed a memo with the Nuclear Power
Corporation o India Limited in 2009 to
enter the market. During his visit to India
in January last year, Lee pushed orward
the nuclear cooperation agreement during
his summit with Indian Prime Minister
Manmohan Singh. Follow-up discussions
took place between the two countries in
July last year, and the nal wordings were
concluded in March this year.
“With the ocial signing o the
agreement during Patil’s visit to Korea, thelegal ground or the two countries’ nuclear
cooperation has been completed,” Park
said. The civil nuclear cooperation deal is
considered the rst step to enter India’s
atomic energy market and to receive a
plant site allocation. “Although it will take
some time, we believe it is possible to sign
a construction contract i India allocates
a site or a plant to be built with Korean
technology.”
BILATERAL COOPERATION During the
summit, Lee and Patil also discussed eorts
to expand the two countries’ cooperation,
saying that diplomatic, security, economic,
trade, social and cultural ties have
improved signicantly since they ormed
the Strategic Partnership in January 2010.
They agreed to pay special attention toimproving cooperation in politics, security
and deense industry.
According to the Blue House, the two
leaders agreed that the Comprehensive
Economic Partnership Agreement,
which took eect in January 2010, has
tremendously contributed to expanded
trade and investment exchanges as
well as the exchanges between the two
countries’ citizens. They acknowledged
that the agreement should be improved to
refect the changes in the bilateral trade
environment that have taken place over
the past 18 months to bolster its strength.
They also agreed to work more closely to
ease more import restrictions.
During the summit, Lee also expressed
his hope or Korean companies’ expanded
participation in other major inrastructure
projects in India. He particularly sought
the Indian government’s support to realize
POSCO’s long delayed project to build a 12
million-metric-ton steel mill in the eastern
eorts to improve eciency o reactors
and develop technology to come to the
current level,” Lee was quoted as saying by
Park. “The recent IAEA saety inspection
conrmed that Korea’s nuclear technology
is world-class, like that o the US.”
According to the Blue House, the state- © C h e o n g W a D a e
; Y o n h a p N e w s A g e n c y
state o Orissa.
The Blue House said the two presidents
also agreed to conclude the ongoing
negotiations on bilateral maritime andaviation cooperation and a double taxation
avoidance agreement as soon as possible.
They pledged to cooperate more closely
or the successul 2011 Korea-India Cultural
Exchange Year campaign, promising to
build more cultural and inormation
centers in each other’s countries.
They also agreed to cooperate closely
on the successul hosting o Korea’s 2012
nuclear summit and other global issues
such as climate change.
During her our-day trip to Korea, Patil
met with Park Hee-tae, the Chairman o
the National Assembly, on July 26 and
visited the research complex o Samsung
on July 27. Pratibha Devisingh Patil, 76, is
the rst emale politician to become India’s
president and took the post in 2007. She is
known or her philanthropy and successul
political career, and won her rst election
at the age o 27 in 1962.
During her visit to Korea, Patil laid
fowers beore a bronze bust o renowned
Indian poet Gurudev Rabindranath Tagore
on July 25. The statue was erected in May
in Daehangno, central Seoul, to mark the
150th birthday o the poet who won the
Nobel Prize or Literature as the rst non-
European. Koreans have a high respect and
love or his 1929 poem, The Lamp of the
East , which described his hope or Korea’s
revival during the Japanese colonial period.
GROWING FRIENDSHIP Lee met with
Malaysian King Mizan Zainal Abidin at the
Blue House on July 20 to discuss the two
countries’ cooperation.
“Ater having successully overcome the
recent global economic crisis, Malaysia has
demonstrated its competitiveness,” Lee
said. “We hope to see continued protection
or Korean residents in Malaysia and
continued support or Korean companies
operating in the country.”
According to the Blue House, Lee highly
praised the two countries’ tireless eorts to
strengthen their cooperative partnership
since the establishment o diplomatic ties
in 1960. He also said Mizan’s visit, ollowing
Malaysian Prime Minister Seri Najib Tun
Razak’s visit to Korea in April this year, will
urther develop the bilateral relations.Lee visited the country in December last
year. Through requent exchanges, the
two countries’ leaders have pledged to
expand their cooperative partnership in all
aspects, particularly in trade and energy
development, as well as in global agendas.
Since orming diplomatic relations
more than hal a century ago, Korea
and Malaysia continued to develop their
partnership in political and economic elds.
As o 2010, Korea’s bilateral trade with the
country recorded US$15.6 billion, the third
largest among the ASEAN member nations.
In 2010 alone, Korea has invested US$1.71
billion in Malaysia, while the country
invested US$110 million in Korea.
The Blue House said Lee stressed the
importance o bolstering cooperation in
the development o energy eld, includingnuclear energy, during his meeting with
the Malaysian king.
Mizan replied that he would like to
see more cooperation between the two
countries. “The king expressed hope to
see more cooperation in the renewable
energy and green technology, which Korea
is known or its competitiveness,” a Blue
House spokesman said. “He also expressed
hope to see urther improvement in
cooperation o tourism, culture and
people’s exchanges.”
In 2010, 264,052 Koreans visited
Malaysia, and 113,675 Malaysian visitors
came to Korea, indicating a growing
exchange o citizens. As o 2010, about
15,000 Koreans are living in Malaysia.
During the meeting at the Blue House,
Mizan congratulated Lee on Korea’s
success in winning the bid to host the 2018
Winter Olympics in PyeongChang. He also
attended a dinner hosted at the Blue House
and visited Samsung Electronics.
President LeeMyung-bak walkswith IndianPresident PratibhaDevisingh Patil atthe Blue House ina summit betweenthe two countriesheld on July 25(left). MalaysianKing Mizan ZainalAbidin, left,watches a 3D TVscreen at SamsungElectronics, duringhis visit to Seoulon July 20(below).
President Lee Myung-bak, left, gives a speechduring the official Korea-Malaysia summit held atthe Blue House on July 20 (above).
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launched the Alliance or a Green
Revolution in Arica (AGRA) in connection
with the Rockeeller Foundation ater
studying agricultural reorm in a number
o dierent countries.
HISTORICAL SOLUTIONS Korea has
established itsel as a model or agricultural
revolution. As recently as the 1950s, Korea
was one o the poorest nations in the
world. However, ater joining the OECD,
Korea ofcially became an aid donor inNovember 2009. This rapid transormation
was made possible due to huge innovations
in the nation’s agriculture.
global korea
In 2000, 191 heads o state gathered at the
United Nations headquarters in New York.
They agreed on eight goals to reach by
2015 through international cooperation,
calling them the Millennium DevelopmentGoals (MDGs). The frst goal on the list was
battling poverty and starvation, and the
aim was to halve the number o those who
live in absolute poverty, defned as those
who subsist on less than US$1 a day.
The heads o state noted that three-
quarters o those living in poverty live
in rural areas, most o whom engage
in arming. The OECD asserted that an
increase in income or arming amilies
enhanced agricultural productivity and
was the key to eliminating poverty, a
fnding backed up by the United Kingdom’s
Department or International Development
(DFID), which is responsible or ofcial
development assistance rom the UK.
Simultaneously, the Bill & Melinda
Gates Foundation, the largest civilian
charity organization, is lending its ull
support to help poor countries developtheir agriculture, well aware that the main
cause o sickness and death in the world’s
poorest areas is amine. The oundation © I n
t e r n a t i o n a l T e
c h n i c a l C o o p e r a t i o n C e n t e r
KOREA’S AGRICULTURAL
TECHNOLOGY GOES GLOBAL
Korea is earning a reputation overseas or its advanced agricultural technology,as the country is lending industry assistance to more and more developing countries.Once an aid recipient, Korea has turned into an aid donor, helping the international
community solve such pressing global issues as poverty. by Seo Dong-chul
Korea’sSaemaul Undong (New
Community Movement), an integrated
rural community development campaign
undertaken in the 1970s, was particularly
helpul in this regard and is still a
benchmark or many developing nations.
The movement aimed to increase
the income o rural communities and
played an important role in shaping
Korean society in the 1970s. Under
a motto that stressed diligence, sel-
help and cooperation, Saemaul Undonghelped lay the groundwork or ood sel-
sufciency through tasks that ranged
rom improvement o village roads to the
A trainee from theGhana branch of
the Korea-AfricaFood andAgricultureCooperationInitiative observesa flower on JejuIsland (opposite).Trainees at ahorticultureinstitute learn toproperly packagefresh vegetables(left). A traineelearns to testglucose levels offruit (below left).Participants listento a lecture(below).
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www.korea.net | 4544 | korea | september 2011
Cambodia and the Philippines).
This year, it plans to establish fve more
KOPIA centers, starting with the one it
opened in Ethiopia this July. “Overseas
agricultural development cannot happen
overnight. It’s necessary to build trustwith other nations through a history o
successul interactions,” says Kim Nam-soo,
director o RDA’s Technology Cooperation
Bureau. RDA plans to build 30 more KOPIA
centers by 2013.
KOPIA aims to continue agricultural
cooperation with developing nations
through technological support and the co-
development o resources. The spirit o the
project is based on customized support.
RDA believes past support programs led
by other countries were less ruitul even
with their high-tech machines and proven
agricultural methods, because they were
not customized or local conditions. It’s
pointless to donate arm machinery to
armers who can’t aord the gas to run it.
to match local conditions.” The Korean
government confrmed its determination
to lead the global battle against poverty
and amine, and the country’s experiences
became a symbol o hope.
Korea’s overseas agricultural technologydevelopment program began in 1972.
As o 2010, Korea had concluded 156
cooperation agreements with other
countries or organizations, invited 3,708
people rom 116 countries or training, and
sent 437 agricultural experts to 72 nations.
The KOPIA (Korea Project on
International Agriculture), which is run
by the Rural Development Administration
(RDA), was launched in 2009 and helps
integrate such agricultural projects in a
more systematic way. RDA established
KOPIA centers in six nations (Vietnam,
Myanmar, Uzbekistan, Kenya, Brazil and
Paraguay) in 2009, and a year later set
up centers in our other nations (the
Democratic Republic o the Congo, Algeria,
© I n
t e r n a t i o n a l T e
c h n i c a l C o o p e r a t i o n C e n t e r
construction o irrigation acilities.
According to the Ministry or Food,
Agriculture, Forestry and Fisheries, the
amount o rice production increased rom
a meager 3.94 million tons in 1970 to over
5.62 million tons in 1985, then to morethan 6.05 million tons in 1988. In short,
it took less than 10 years or Korea to
produce more rice, the staple o Koreans’
diet, than they consumed.
GOING GLOBAL In September 2010,
The 30th Session o the FAO Regional
Conerence or Asia and the Pacifc (APRC)
was held in Gyeongju. President Lee
Myung-bak said at the opening ceremony,
“Advanced countries need to expand
humanitarian support and development
cooperation or developing countries.”
“Based on Korea’s experience in realizing
ood security, we will redouble our
eorts to help developing countries with
customized technologies and inrastructure
KOPIA has kept this in mind as it hasattempted to transer technology to
meet local needs. In Muguga, Kenya, or
instance, armers used to thresh grain by
hitting a shea o rice on a hard surace.
In response to this, KOPIA designed and
then supplied a new threshing machine
to Kenyans which could be powered by a
bicycle. Furthermore, KOPIA shared other
technology, such as a Korean traditional
rice-planting technique using a motjul (rice
planting line). These and other initiatives
have led to a 20% increase in Kenyan rice
production.
In other areas as well, KOPIA is helping
armers support themselves and develop
agricultural resources by ocusing on a
region or nation’s main crops. That has
translated into tropical crops and bio-
energy produce (used as an alternative
energy source) in Southeast Asia; eedgrains and ruits and vegetables in Central
Asia; and oil plants and garden plants in
Central and South America.
DIVERSE DONORS While KOPIA centersare helping increase the overall amount
o production and arming household
incomes, the Asian Food and Agriculture
Cooperation Initiative (AFACI) and the
Korea-Arica Food and Agriculture
Cooperation Initiative (KAFACI) are
programs designed to solve multilateral
issues within a broader ramework.
AFACI was launched in November
2009 with 12 member nations, including
the Philippines, Bangladesh, Cambodia,
Mongolia, Thailand and Korea, which is
presently the organization’s secretariat.
It aims to increase the average income
in arming communities and address
agricultural problems such as migratory
insect pests and disease control. AFACI
categorizes its tasks according to the scope
and nature o the work that needs to be
done, localizing needed support.The tasks are split up into pan-Asian
regional and national categories, and oer
workshops and training. Today, AFACI
is carrying out a wide range o projects,including building networks o agricultural
technology and inormation, and bringing
about organic arming technology
development or sustainable agriculture.
KAFACI was launched in July 2010 to
reduce poverty and hunger through rural
development in Arica. It has 16 members,
including Ethiopia, Angola and Cameroon,
with Korea serving as the group’s
secretariat. Arica’s agricultural background
and history vary greatly rom Korea’s,
which is why such close attention is being
paid to the region.
As one RDA expert explained, “At
frst, each member nation proposes three
technological felds they want to develop.
Korea then invites experts rom each o
these felds to oer a 10-week training
session at related research centers. Through
this process, the two parties come up witha list o tasks to be accomplished and
establish a direction in which to perorm
the projects.”
African traineeslisten to a lectureon how topreserveagricultural genesat the RDAGenebank (left).A group oftrainees visit anexperimentalapple farm tolearn how tocultivate the plantin the future(opposite left).Trainees andinstructors ripenthe fruits of theirhard learning andlabor (oppositeright).
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my korea
www.korea.net | 4746 | korea | september 2011
My second day in Korea, the bubbly English teacher I replaced
showed me a Post-it note on the ridge I would inherit. “Here’s
how you tell the delivery person your address in Korean,” she
explained cheerully. Tat note spelled out my new address in
Korean words with English letters: “Beck sa hoe, beck sheep
eel Bang-ee-dong.” Tis was my rst introduction to Korea’s
amazing delivery culture. Tough I barely had a stitch o
knowledge about the Korean nation, culture or language, I
could order Korean ood by phone. Once I learned the names
o some dishes, o course.
Delivery is baedal in Korean, and my wie says Korea hasa “baedal culture.” Te speed and convenience o delivery ts
a nation that is always on the go. Drivers here share the road
with legions o motorbike and moped-driving delivery men
and women who dodge and dart into every obscure alleyway
in Korea, bringing packages, supplies and ood to anyone
who needs it. Along with the bikers, delivery trucks and vans
bring larger items around. Te small, dark blue delivery vans
have the proportions o the lunchbox I carried to school as a
child, and their drivers t them around sharp corners, into
unbelievably narrow spaces. And what can be delivered?
Almost anything.
In the 1995 movie Te Net , Sandra Bullock plays a woman
who uses the Internet so much that nobody knows what she
looks like. She orders everything online and has it delivered
to her door, until she becomes a virtual hermit. I our world’s
wired-in uture really leads to home-delivery shut-ins, nonation will live better than Korea.
Laundromats, clothing stores, package pickups, ower
shops and baby supplies are either online or a phone call
away, and delivery speeds can be astonishing. My wie once
ordered an outt rom a store in the morning, and it arrived
that same aernoon. We haven’t set oot in a pet supply store
in over a year, though we own two dogs, and when I was out
o country during her birthday, I had owers delivered to my
wie’s workplace. Even moving houses in Korea includes door
to door service. Entire moving crews will empty a house (with
a li, through the window o my apartment), load it, ship it
and set everything up in the new place — they only ask where
each wardrobe and desk should go. My wie ound a moving
company with a book-shel specialist, who packed away her
considerable library and re-stocked the shelves in the new
house, in exactly the same order as beore, thanks to a system
he’d developed. Me, I can barely organize the photos on my
computer’s hard drive!
Meanwhile, my two avorite grocery stores both include
ree home delivery i you spend more than a certain amount.
Tis means we do not have to bring our car when we shop
or ood. O course, the speedy bike-delivery workers may
corner sharply on their way. Some places suggest you carry
the eggs home yoursel, and don’t have ice cream delivered, in
case there’s trac. Is even going to the grocery store too much
strain? No problem; there are online shopping websites.
While online clothing stores are multiplying, the most
popular delivery item is probably still ood. Te most oen-
ordered cuisine includes ried chicken, pizza and Chinese
ood, but everything rom rice dishes and soups, to cutlets,
ried things and even sushi, are available. Couriers lug stainless
steel boxes o Saran-wrapped dishes to the oces o dedicatedworkaholics logging overtime, or to the convenience store
where my riends drink beers lazily on the patio together, or
to the park where my wie and I let our dogs of the leash — so
long as I can explain the basics o where I am in Korean, the
deliverymen will always nd me. I I’m in my apartment and
the ood was delivered on real, non-disposable dishes, I can
leave the dirty plates outside my apartment, and the courier
will come by and pick them up again later or re-use.
Te delivery bikers know their neighborhoods, some with
side-streets intricate and treacherous as spider webs, almost
with their eyes closed. Tanks to the population density in
Korea’s cities, running deliveries only within several city blocks
remains viable or some types o delivery. Within that zone,
service is amazing!
During a dicult time in my lie, I discovered that
yangnyeom chicken (ried chicken marinated in a sweet and
very spicy sauce) was one o the ew comort oods that tasted
good even on my worst days. I once tried to order yangnyeom
chicken at my house, but the shop I called explained
apologetically that my address was outside their delivery area.
In Korea, delivery service is not only ubiquitous, it’s a must. One Canadianexpat explores the world o convenienceand speed that comprises the country’szipping motorbike culture.
DELIVERYDARING
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and despite the distance there wasn’t even a big markup. I don’t
think I’ve ever eaten a more satisying, or surprising, meal.
Some o the more specialized delivery services, likegroceries and supplies, require a strong working knowledge
o Korean, and maybe also a Korean ID card, to navigate all-
Korean websites and make online purchases. Not many expats
I know capitalize on the ull range o delivery services available
in Korea. Aer getting over the initial shyness about placing
a phone call in Korean, and with the aid o a ew Youube
videos that can teach useul phrases, getting ood delivery isn’t
hard at all. Even better, at every place I have called repeatedly,
en minutes later, I received a phone call rom the ranchise
in the next zone o the same chain, which did deliver to my
house.So how does one know what to order? Restaurants with
delivery service advertise by distributing copies o their
menus, sticking magnetic versions onto apartment doors
or taping them onto staircases. Tis kind o marketing is
one o the measures delivery services take to stay ahead in a
competitive business.
And competition is steep indeed. Tis spring, major Korean
news outlets carried discussions about competitive ood
delivery services, rst when a mega-store ofered barbecue
chicken as a loss leader, at less than hal the price charged
by neighborhood delivery ranchises (which are usually
independently owned). Local shops could not compete, and
there was a backlash against the corporation or endangering
the livelihoods and existence o purveyors o Korea’s beloved
chicken delivery. Not long aer, several university-aged
pizza delivery workers were killed in car accidents in the
same month, prompting a discussion about the pressureon employees to drive dangerously, or be charged or losses
caused by lateness. Because o the bad publicity, several chains
dropped their 30 minute-delivery guarantees. Convenient as
quick delivery is, any sensible driver in Korea, as well as any
sensible pedestrian, supports lessened pressure on the reckless
drivers who share the road with us.
Delivery is not just limited to dense cities, nor to homes
with street addresses, either, as evidenced by a riend o mine
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I B R S / C C R I N° : 1 0 0 2 4 -4 0 7 3 0
K O C I S
1 5 H y o j a -r o , J o n g n o - g u
S e o ul ( 1
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R e p u b l i c o f K o r e a
NE P A S A F F R A N C HI R
N O S T A MP R E Q UI R E D
P r i o r i t y / P r i o r i l a i r e
B y a i r m a i l / P a r a v i o n
R E P L Y P A I D / R É P O N S E P A Y É E
K O R E A
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Dolhareubang, a carvedbasalt rock on Jeju Island
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