FINISHINGS OF TEXTILES

PRESENTED BY:S.Y.T.S.A.D (GROUP NO.1)

2016-2017

CONTENT SR. NO. TOPICS

1. INTRODUCTION2. CLASSIFICATION3. BASIC ROUTINE FINISHES

a) TENTERINGb) MERCERIZATIONc) CALENDERING

4. SPECIAL FINISHESa) CARBONISING

b) WEIGHTINGc) DEGUMMING

5. FINISHES FOR APPEARANCEa) HEAT SETTING

b) EMBOSSING

INTRODUCTION• In a restricted sense, it is the term used for a series of processes to which

all bleached, dyed, printed and certain grey fabrics are subjected before they are put on the market

• It includes the final treatment of every kind of fabric made from every kind of fibre.

• The aim of textile finishing is to render textile goods fit for their purpose or end use.

• In a broad sense, it covers all the processes which the fabric undergoes after leaving the loom or the knitting machine.

THE TECHNIQUES OF FINISHING DEPENDS UPON

THE FOLLOWING:1. Nature of the fabric.2. The physical properties of the fabric.3. The end use of the material.4. Receptivity of the fabric to various finishing operations.5. Susceptibility to chemical modifications

CLASSIFICATION OF FINISHES

BASIC ROUTINE FINISHES

• TENTERING• MERCERIZATION• CALKENDERING

TENTERING Tentering is the mechanical straightening and drying of

fabrics.

For woven fabrics the tenter establishes the relationship between warp and filling yarns.

Properly tentered fabrics will be straight or on-grain. A tenter frame holds the fabric between two parallel chains.

The chains spread apart to the desired fabric width, move with the fabric through finishing or drying units, and release the fabric to be rolled or folded onto cylinders.

The fabric is held horizontally between two chains.

Tentering is applied to fabrics at several different times during the overall finishing operation.

When tentering follows the application of finishing compounds that are designed to help produce easy care fabrics.

Fabrics are tentered following bleaching and scouring and many other finishing operations; thus this process is used frequently during the total converting procedure.

The fabric is held horizontally between two chains.

MERCERIZATION• Mercerization is a treatment for cotton fabric and thread that

gives fabric a lustrous appearance.

• The process is applied to materials like cotton or hemp.

• Mercerization alters the chemical structure of the cotton fiber.

• The structure of the fiber changes from alpha-cellulose to beta-cellulose.

• Mercerizing results in the swelling of the cell wall of the cotton fiber.

• This causes increases in the surface area and reflectance, and gives the fiber a softer feel.  

THE EFFECT OF MERCERIZATION

• Improve luster.

• Increased ability to absorb dye.

• Improved reactions with a variety of chemicals.

• Improved stability of form.

• Improved strength/elongation.

• Improved smoothness.

CALENDERING• To give luster or glaze the fabric.• To give soft and smooth surface to the fabric.• To give silk like appearance.• To decrease the air permeability.• To flatten the slobs.

•In general calender usually have 2 to 7 rollers with more common being the 3 bowl calender.•Textile calender are made with alternate hard steel and elastic bowls.•The elastic bowls are made from either compressed paper or compressed cotton, however a lot of modern calender are made with a covering which is usually nylon 6

SPECIAL FINISHES

• CARBONISING• WEIGHTING• DEGUMMING

SPECIAL FINISHINGWool and wool blend fabrics are subjected to a series of routine finishes that are specific to that fabric. This includes carbonizing, Crabbling, Decanting and fulling.

Carbonizing:1) Carbonizing is the process by which vegetable matter

found in wool fiber is removed.2) To remove all foreign matter found with wool fiber during the carding process when making wool or wool blend yarns. Thus, remaining foreign matter is removed by carbonizing.3) This finishing process involves the immerssion of the wool fabric in a solution of sulfuric acid. 4) The acid and heat react to convert the vegetable matter to carbon, which is easily removed by a final scouring and if necessary, brushing.

5)The process must be carefully controlled to prevent fiber damage, and it cannot be used on blends.

6) Carbonizing is the important step in the manufacture of worsted fabrics.

7) It may or maynot be used on woolens, depending on the type of fabric.

3) This finishing process involves the immerssion of the wool fabric in a solution of sulfuric acid.

4) The acid and heat react to convert the vegetable matter to carbon, which is easily removed by a final scouring and if necessary, brushing.

WEIGHTING

1) Silk fabrics may be given a finish called weighting.2) To make heavy of stiff silk fabrics, manufacturers resort

to adding substances, usually metallic salts.3) It is the natural absorbency characteristic of silk fiber that

makes this finishing process feasible.4) If weighting is overdone silk fabrics tend to crack and

split during use and care.5) Although weighted silk has body and density6) The fabrics are not as durable for they are sensitive to

damage by sunlight, perspiration, and Deodarants.

DEGUMMING Silk filaments are unwound from the cocoons in a manufacturing plant called a filature. Several cocoons are placed in hot water to soften the Gum and the surface are brushed lightly to find the end filaments. These ends are collected ,threaded through a guide and wounded onto wheel called a reel ,hence the process is called as reeling .

As the fibers are combined and pulled on to the reel, twist can be inserted to hold the filament together. The operation is called Throwing and the resulting yarn is called thrown yarn .Fibers may be thrown in a separate operation ,but the process remains basically identical .

The sericin ,the gum that holds the filament together remains on the fiber during the reeling and throwing ,it is removed after these step by a process called Degumming

DEGUMMING

FINISHES FOR APPEARENCE

• HEAT SETTING• EMBOSSING

HEAT SETTING Heat Sensitive or thermoplastic , fibres are frequently given a heat setting finish to ensure a stable fabric or to create special shapes and designs in fabric-is used to build specific characteristics in those fibers so they become permanent features .Any fabric of heat sensitive fibers and blends in which heat sensitive fiber are a part can be heat set .

One of the most important reason for heat setting is to reduce or eliminate stretch or shrinkage of the fabric .The heat setting operation produces a fabric that will change its size in normal use and care .Another important characteristics is to build resiliency so that the fabric returns to shape and tends to be an essay care item .Heat setting can be used to build planned creases, pleats and surface designs such as embossing.

HEAT SETTING Heat setting is durable providing the consumer does not exceeds the heat setting temperature during its using and caring process .It is most important to prevent the product from reaching the temperature used for heat setting ;if such should happen the product would assume whatever shape it has taken at that time .

Care during laundering and deying are important as wrinkles can be formed in the end use items of washing and drying temperature are higher than the temperature used for heat setting the time for exposure to the high temperature was longer than the time required for the original heat-setting operation .

But without heat setting the thermoplastic (heat sensitive )fibers would not be as attractive and would tend to shrinl badly when exposed to normal care processes.

HEAT SETTING

HEAT FINISH GARMENT

EMBOSSING• Embossed fabrics have three dimensional designs.

• Calendars used for embossing may have two to three rolls.

• Embossing that involves use of resins or heat sensitive fibers are easy to care.

EMBOSSING MACHINE

EMBOSSED ARTICLES

THANK YOU