edible san diego - winter 2011 issue

Celebrating San Diego’s local foods, season by season • No. 15 • Winter 2011/12

Farm Bill

Chef Ricardo Heredia

Van Ommering Dairy

Sustainable Kitchen

Connelly Farms

Boules Restaurant & Bar

Caroline Kremler was not always the bouyant baker you see before you. Time was, her flowery (and flour-y) fantasy —complete

with the cherubic, chocolate-smeared smiles of her children — was merely “pie in the sky”. But then she spoke with us. And we

listened (a lost art, we’re told). And together, we arrived at Caroline’s Pastry-based Paradise. You might even say getting

there was… well, a piece of cake.

And they shall call me:

Caroline, Queen of the Kitchen

Kitchen. Bath. Outdoor. Joy.

Picture your Perfect Moment atwww.MyJoyComeTrue.com

Follow us on

FIX_EdibleSD_NonCoop_pg_AD_10/19/11.indd 1 10/19/11 4:41 PM

winter 2011/12 edible San Diego 1

Caroline Kremler was not always the bouyant baker you see before you. Time was, her flowery (and flour-y) fantasy —complete

with the cherubic, chocolate-smeared smiles of her children — was merely “pie in the sky”. But then she spoke with us. And we

listened (a lost art, we’re told). And together, we arrived at Caroline’s Pastry-based Paradise. You might even say getting

there was… well, a piece of cake.

And they shall call me:

Caroline, Queen of the Kitchen

Kitchen. Bath. Outdoor. Joy.

Picture your Perfect Moment atwww.MyJoyComeTrue.com

Follow us on

FIX_EdibleSD_NonCoop_pg_AD_10/19/11.indd 1 10/19/11 4:41 PM

Thank you, San Diego, for

18 years on a roll!Sushi on a Roll has been San Diego’s most sought after sushi caterer for 18 years. The � rst of its kind and the only rentable sushi bar in San Diego, as well as the longest in business, Sushi on a Roll has set the trend for the “live” sushi experience.

We’ll continue to give you the freshest, locally and sustainably sourced ingredients we can get our chop sticks on.

Thanks, too, to all the local farmers and seafood providers that have kept us supplied with their freshest and best products.

Je� rey Roberto, President, Sushi On A Roll, Inc.Chef de Cuisine Chef of the Year 2009Chef Rotisseur& TEAM SOAR

Chef de Cuisine Chef of the Year 2009

619-702-1468 • sushionarollsd.com1620 National Ave., San Diego, CA 92113

ww

w.B

r i

a n s F a r m

ers Ma

rkets.com

Farmers’MarketsBrian’s

POINT LOMA Sundays 9:30am -2:30pm

UTC thursdays 3pm-7pm

Rosecrans & CañonNear San Diego Yacht Club

Westfield Utc mallnear Macys

IMPERIAL BEACHFridays 2pm-6pm

Seaside Dr. at Peir PlazaImperial Beach

All Markets Accept

www.BriansFarmersMarkets.com

Local

GOLDEN HILL Saturdays

NEW HOURS: 9:30pm-1:30pmAt 28th and Bst

East of Downtown

Food

Makes

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Farmers Market CSA$15 & $25 Shares

Multi-Farm

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Fallbrook, Ca

Escondido, Ca

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Carlsbad, Ca

More info and Online Sign Up:

Mission Hills *Fridays 3:00pm -6:00pm

Falcon and Washington

*Starting January 2012we move to Wednesdays

2 edible San Diego winter 2011/12

CONTRIBUTORSChris Rov CostaRiley Davenport

Enrique GiliCaron Golden

Marisa HolmesKaren Kenyon

Lauren LastowkaLauren Mahan

Mike MahanJill RichardsonVincent RossiSusan Russo

Clea ShannonMatt Steiger

PUBLISHERSRiley Davenport

John Vawter

EDITORLauren Lastowka

COPY EDITORs˙Doug Adrianson

John Vawter

DESIGNERRiley Davenport

COVER PHOTOChris Rov Costa

Edible San DiegoP.O. Box 83549

San Diego, CA 92138619-222-8267

[email protected]

ADVERTISINGFor information about

rates and deadlines, call 619-222-8267 or email us at

[email protected]

No part of this publication may be used without written permission of

the publisher. © 2011. All rights reserved.

Every eff ort is made to avoid errors, misspellings and omissions. If an error comes to your attention,

please let us know and accept our sincere

apologies. Thank you.

Riley Davenport & John Vawter

edible Communities2011 James Beard Foundation

Publication of the Year

PUblishers’ raNt

No farms, no holiday foodWe love food—fancy food, plain food, slow food, throw-it-together food, fabulous chef creations and down home cookin’. One of the most delightful aspects of fall and winter is the food. Th ose holiday spreads and edible gift s of special things you usually don’t have. And there’s that off -the-leash, live-for-the-moment attitude that makes it perfectly acceptable to feast with wild abandon.

Several things are on the horizon both locally and nationally that aff ect how we eat—what foods are grown, what crops we support with our tax dollars, where crops can be grown, and how they are farmed. Th is is one of those pesky connecting-the-dot-issues that most of us have little time or patience for. We assume the basic stuff of life—food, clean air, clean water—will be there for us. All these basics are aff ected by the way we grow food. 40% of the earth’s land mass is occupied by farming and

ranching, 75% of the earth’s fresh water is used in agriculture, and 33% of greenhouse gas emissions are generated growing, processing and shipping food, so how we do it really matters. For those of us who want to eat really good fresh, healthy, local food, it behooves us to know what is being done to aff ect our food system and to weigh in when the big decisions are made.

At the national level, what goes into the Farm Bill aff ects our food supply and environment in ways that are obscure and diffi cult for the average consumer to fathom. However, the health of the nation (both nutritionally and environmentally) is aff ected by what goes into the Farm Bill. So it is in our interest to give a darn. Read about it in Jill Richardson’s article. She makes it easy, trust me.

On the local scene, how do we reconcile the needs of residents and the sometimes confl icting needs and simple realities of organic farmers? Th e recent tempest over the eye gnats at Be Wise is a case in point (see page 7). We need local agriculture, and many of us want it to be organic, but we don’t want to be pestered by bugs. Urban sprawl threatens the very existence of prime agricultural land, so this is going to be an ongoing confl ict we need innovative solutions for. In the bigger picture, agricultural land cannot continue to be sacrifi ced in preference for housing, malls, and freeways. Aft er all, we still gotta eat, and as the American Farmland Trust bumper sticker says, “No Farms, No Food.”

We’re not going to try to cover it all, but we hope you want to learn more and participate in the process.

Never miss a mouth watering issue. Support and celebrate our local food community. Subscribe or give a gift subscription to Edible San Diego for just $32 a year (printed quarterly). $52 for two years. $66 for three years. Subscribing online is easy at ediblesandiego.com.

Or send your information (name, street address,city, state and zip code) and check made payable to Edible San Diego to the address below.

Edible San Diego, P.O. Box 83549, San Diego, CA 92138

Subscribe & support ESD

edible communities Publications 6th Annual Local Hero AwardsVote NOW to join in celebrating the heroes of your local food community! Visit the link below to vote for your “Best Of” in the following categories:

Chef/Restaurant • Food/Retail Shop • Farm/Farmer • Food Beverage Artisan • Nonprofi t Organizationwww.ediblecommunities.com/heroes Click on the link for San Diego to cast your vote.

Deadline is Friday, December 16, 2011.

winter 2011/12 edible San Diego 3 winter 2011/12 edible San Diego 3

Winter 2011/12

CONTENTS PuBLisHers’ Note 2

NotABLe ediBLes 4

iN seAsoN iNtervieW: cHeF ricArdo HerediA oF ALcHeMY 8

BouLes restAurANt & BAr iN sAN MiGueL BAJA cALiForNiA Norte 12

creAM oF tHe croP 16

GoiNG BAcK to tHe FArM...BiLL 20

surPrise! it’s Good For You! 24

BeYoNd tHe PLAte: sustAiNABLe KitcHeN ANd tABLeWAre 26

coNNeLLY FArMs MAKes tHe Most oF tWo Acres 36

Go ediBLe tHis HoLidAY seAsoN 36

resources & Advertisers 38

FArMers’ MArKets 41


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Notable ediblesStudy Sustainable Farming at City College

City College has been operating an urban farm, called Seeds @ City, since 2008. Th e purpose of the farm is to teach students about growing edibles and to provide a backdrop for food education. Th ey also host a CSA program and weekly farm stand.

Farm Manager Paul Maschka stresses, “What we are really growing here is urban farmers, not just food.” In addition to teaching students how to cultivate, grow, and preserve food, Maschka conducts outreach, warning students about cancer, obesity, and diabetes and touting the benefi ts of a diet high in fresh, seasonal vegetables. “I call it Doom and Bloom,” he says. Maschka hopes to eventually provide both produce and a sustainable eating model to the campus cafeteria.

Seeds @ City has been slowly growing for the past three years, both in the fi eld and in the classroom. City College now off ers fi ve certifi cate programs in farming/gardening, as well as an Associate’s Degree in sustainable agriculture. Th ese programs are intended to prepare students for jobs or higher education, and provide them with hands-on farming and gardening experience.

Th e fi ve certifi cate areas are urban farming, urban gardening, organic gardening for the culinary arts, and both introductory and advanced ecological landscaping.

Program Manager Erin Rempala, also a professor of biology, is working to develop the curriculum. “Th e problem we have right now is there’s only enough funding for two classes each semester. Th ese classes have a capacity of 30 students and we have 50 showing up; there’s not even room to stand.”

Rempala is looking for new ways to support the program. Restaurants like Local Habit hold fund-raising events and local farms such as Wild Willow and Suzie’s have taken on interns. Check out www.sdcity.edu/SeedsAtCity for information or to donate, or visit their stunning garden nestled in a corner of campus near 14th and C Streets in downtown San Diego. Visiting hours are 9 AM to noon on Tuesdays, Th ursdays, and Saturdays and they sell seeds and produce on Th ursdays from 9:30 to 11:30 AM.

—Matt Steiger

Erin Rempala and Paul Maschka

Something Tasty Is Brewing in El Cajon

East County has a new place to sink a pint of suds and enjoy some tasty grub. Th is fall, brothers David and Stephan Meadows opened El Cajon Brewing Company on Main Street in Downtown El Cajon.

David, the head brewer, cut his teeth in Sweden at the acclaimed craft brewery Sigtuna Brygghus. He plans to make a variety of American beers, as well as some Old World recipes: “We’re going to brew some stuff you’ve never even heard of,” he boasts. Th e bar sports a staggering 40 taps of (mostly) craft beer; about 10–15 hold ECBC brews.

Th e restaurant serves sandwiches on homemade beer bread, burgers marinated in beer, and ale-battered fried goodies. David wants to take food and beer pairing to the extreme: “Basically, any recipe

that calls for water, we substitute beer,” he says.

“We want to make lots of good food that we can turn out quickly. All our breads are made in house, and we smoke our

own meat and fi sh. Smoked fi sh is delicious in Sweden; I’m hoping to bring more of that to San Diego.”

El Cajon Brewing is a welcome addition to East County, where good food and artisanal drinks are not always readily available. ECBC also hopes to engage the community. Th ey hold weekly classic car shows, and they hope to host periodic “Fiesta del Sol” street fairs in Downtown El Cajon.

Here’s to delicious smoked fi sh and good libations!

—Matt Steiger

East County has a new place to sink a pint of suds and enjoy some tasty grub. Th is fall, brothers David and Stephan Meadows opened El Cajon Brewing Company on Main Street in

that calls for water, we substitute beer,” he says.

“We want to make lots of good food that we can turn out quickly. All our breads are made in house, and we smoke our

own meat and fi sh. Smoked fi sh is Ph

otos

: Mat

t Ste

iger

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New Legislation May Boost Urban Agriculture

Foot soldiers in the urban agriculture movement are making their voices heard throughout the country, and San Diego is no exception. A series of proposals winding their way through City Council this winter could have a profound impact on community gardens and urban farmsteads.

Changes in the zoning laws would amount to more than just chicken scratch to local residents. The proposed legislation would enable homeowners to keep up to five chickens with no property setbacks, and permit the creation of small farm stands in retail districts.

The final vote is set for January. If passed, the reforms would acknowledge urban agricultural practices that have been quietly transforming San Diego’s

backyards for the past several years—some surreptitiously tucked away behind garden fences in areas as diverse as Point Loma and City Heights.

Advocates contend the reforms could

help bring an end to so-called food deserts and provide a source of revenue for low-income households. They could also reduce the number of food miles travelled as well as provide San Diegans with more food choices.

One of the best ways to stay informed about the legislation and get involved in the urban agriculture movement is to join the Google-based news group called the 1 in 10 Coalition. Through this Google group, you can find the proposals under review and the time line for changing San Diego’s zoning laws. You can learn more and join the group at: http://sdfoodnotlawns.com/1in10.php and http://groups.google.com/group/sdfoodshed/about or go to www.sdfood policy.org/Home.

—Enrique Gili

Stone Brewing Celebrates Farm to Table

Stone Brewing CEO and Cofounder Greg Koch calls himself an ethicurean: someone who seeks out tasty but sustainable, organic, local and ethical (SOLE) foods. This principle guides Koch’s personal life as well as the menu and actions of Stone Brewing.

Koch is outspoken in his support of food equality and good food in general. He believes that we don’t fully account for the true cost of feeding poor food to the poor, given long-term health effects, and that good food could be made available to everyone.

As CEO, Koch has been putting his company’s money where his mouth is for a long time. For the past four years Stone has hosted a quarterly farm-to-table event called the Stone FRESH! Dinner. The guiding principle of

FRESH! is to serve a meal made as much as possible from food harvested that day.

The FRESH! Dinner is orchestrated by Executive Chef Alex Carballo. He spends the day canvassing the county for fresh fish, poultry, and produce, and then sets the menu for the evening’s meal. One recent FRESH! Dinner even included olive oil that had been pressed that day!

The Stone FRESH! Dinner epitomizes a meal made with SOLE foods. Koch’s commitment to food equality is borne out in the price of the meal. For $55 it is undoubtedly the finest, freshest and most affordable seven-course meal available in San Diego, and even includes a pint of beer fresh out of Stone’s fermenters. Look for the next FRESH! Dinner sometime around February, but act fast—only about 45 seats are available at each one.

—Matt Steiger

Greg Koch

Chef Alex Carballo (left) at the Stone FRESH! Dinner

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Socially Conscious Daily Deals

Brothers Jered and Sasha Cherry are the founders of Ideal4aCause, a new socially conscious daily-deal site operating in San Diego. Each deal benefits a local business and a local nonprofit. Buying the deal means some of your money—10%–20%, according to a tier system—goes to the featured nonprofit.

Jered and Sasha started volunteering at a young age. When they were 8 years old, they worked on community building projects for their town’s sister city in Guatemala. In middle school, they conducted fund raisers for Greenpeace. Sasha knew any business they ran would have to include a charitable component. “We realized the most meaningful experiences of our lives

have come from volunteering.”

Sasha says they choose their businesses carefully. “We are looking to promote socially conscious companies. The

restaurants are going to be the kind that offer things like farm-to-table events, craft beer and grass-fed beef.” Other deals feature events showcasing San Diego and its culture, usually with an environmentally conscious view.

Ideal4aCause also has an innovative method for choosing the nonprofits they

support. Sasha explains, “Users can vote for which nonprofits we feature. The nonprofits receive a small donation for each vote they receive on the site.” So far,

Ideal4aCause has featured several food-related nonprofits, including San Diego Roots and SuperFood Drive.

The Cherry brothers are proud of their business model: “We bring good

deals to people, drive new customers to these businesses and manage to set something aside for the nonprofits; it’s a win-win-win situation.”

To learn more or participate, visit http://ideal4acause.com.

—Matt Steiger

Notable edibles

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FRESH LOCAL CUISINESUNDAY BRUNCH 10:30-2:00PM

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Pest, Response Threaten Be Wise Ranch

Many San Diego organic food advocates found an urgent email in their inboxes on Saturday, Oct. 29: Be Wise Ranch, a 200-acre organic farm that sells most of its produce nationally to stores like Whole Foods and about 30% locally via its large CSA program, was under attack due to an insect called the eye gnat. According to the email, if the county took its proposed action, Be Wise Ranch would lose its organic status and, likely, cease to exist. When the County Board of Supervisors’ office opened on Monday, many of Be Wise Ranch’s 2,500 CSA customers and others in San Diego who support organic agriculture called, flooding the phone lines. Within a day, the crisis had passed. But what exactly had happened?

The eye gnat issue actually began on a different farm, the 450-acre organic spinach and lettuce operation of Alan Bornt in Jacumba. For years, the eye gnats, which feed on the mucus in human and animal eyes, have been swarming the community. A 2009 report found that 80 million eye gnats were coming from Bornt’s farm. Eye gnats are attracted to freshly tilled soil that is rich in organic matter, and they had found plenty of it on the farm. They would reproduce there and then leave the farm as adults, in search of a human population.

Bornt began working with the county to bring the eye gnats under control, at first

only using organic pesticides. In March 2011, the county made him sign an agreement that included maintaining a 100-foot buffer of a “trap crop” around the entire perimeter of his farm that would be sprayed weekly with toxic, nonorganic pesticides. Additionally, he must observe a six-week “dry period” in which no crops are watered and no soil is tilled in the middle of the summer, and he must place traps all over his farm to catch the gnats. The entomologist working on the problem, James Bethke, feels that the first priority in dealing with the problem is bringing down the adult population of eye gnats. Bornt says he’s already decreased their population by 95% and has spent tens of thousands of dollars in doing so.

Be Wise found out last year that it might be affected by the eye gnat problem as well. “On the farm, you don’t see eye gnats,” farmer Bill Brammer explained. “You don’t see them when you’re walking around.” Be Wise began working with Bethke, who says the farm has been very

cooperative in trying to bring the eye gnats under control. (Brammer emphasized that this isn’t a problem unique to his farm—eye gnats are found all over the southern half of the United States.)

The urgent situation that arose in late October was a new proposal that would reclassify the eye gnat as a disease vector (which Bethke says it isn’t), allowing the county to take more heavy-handed actions like forced spraying of pesticides (even on organic farms) and fines of up to $1,000 per day. After the outpouring of support in favor of the organic farms, the county backed down, instead proposing a 90-day period in which stakeholders would be consulted, followed by recommendations on how to control the eye gnats.

— Jill Richardson

continued on page 10

Chef Ricardo Heredia of Alchemy


By Karen Kenyon

Since he was a child, Chef Ricardo Heredia has had a flair for cooking and an appreciation of fresh

homegrown and home-prepared food. As a child, he spent most Sundays with his grandmother, helping her in the kitchen as she shaped tortillas and created chicken mole and fideos (a Mexican pasta dish).

“What she did everyday was cook,” says Heredia.

Her vegetables came from her garden. Heredia recalls “picking fresh tomatoes, sprinkling them with a little salt and never forgetting that delicious taste.”

A quick learner, he roasted his first chicken at age 10. After that, his desire to cook grew. Today he carries on the tradition his grandmother gave him: fresh organic vegetables, prepared with love.

“Basically, I’m self-taught,” says Heredia. He worked with several chefs in Dayton, Ohio, learning the art of Thai, French and Japanese cuisine. He eventually journeyed to Southern California from Ft. Wayne, Indiana, because he realized Southern California had the greatest variety of fresh produce to be found just about anywhere.

Heredia has been chef for Alchemy at 1503 30th St., in North Park, since it was opened in February 2009 by owners Roy Troyano and Matt Thomas.

At Alchemy the emphasis is on organic, farm-fresh produce, grass-fed beef and free-range chicken. And it all comes together with Chef Ricardo’s touch. The menu reflects a “New York street food” theme, and brings together global influences.

“Street food,” says Heredia, “is literally anything fast and easy—and anything in a pie is street food.”

“My ideas come from the food stalls of Thailand or the Caribbean,” he explains. There, street food is “working-class food,” he says. “Unfortunately, American working-class food is fast food.”

Some examples of Heredia’s style of globally conscious street

iN seasoN iNterview

“ My ideas come from the food stalls of Thailand or the Caribbean,” he explains. There, street food is “working-class food.”

Photo by Chris Rov Costa

Lentil Soup with Winter Squash


2 Kabocha squash

2 tablespoons cumin seed

2 tablespoons coriander seed

½ teaspoon ground cardamom

½ tablespoon ground turmeric

1 small onion, diced

2 tablespoons kosher salt

4 quarts vegetable stock

3 14-ounce cans coconut milk

2 cups red lentils

1 cup yogurt

Mint oil for garnish (recipe below)

Preheat oven to 400° F. Cut each squash in half and remove the seeds. Place halves in a large roasting pan with 2 cups of water and cover with aluminum foil. Roast for 1½ hours. Let cool slightly.

In a dry pan, toast cumin, coriander, cardamom and turmeric for about 2 minutes, stirring frequently, until spices start to smoke slightly and become aromatic. Grind mixture in a spice grinder.

In a large stockpot, sauté onion with a little oil until the pieces start to caramelize, about 5 minutes. Add squash, spice mixture and remaining ingredients except yogurt and mint oil. Bring to a simmer and cook for approximately 1 hour, until lentils are soft and the soup thickens up. Adjust salt if needed and garnish with yogurt and mint oil.

Mint Oil

4 ounces fresh mint

1 cup olive oil

Remove mint leaves from stalk and place in a bowl of hot water for 30 seconds. Remove and pat dry. Place mint leaves in a blender with olive oil and blend for 1 minute. Strain through a fi ne-mesh sieve and store in sealed container or squeeze bottle in refrigerator until ready to use.

Photo by Marisa Holmes

continued from page 8


Ingredients

Barley risotto

2 tablespoons olive oil

1 small yellow onion, diced

½ tablespoon minced garlic

3 cups pearl barley

1 cup white wine

7 cups chicken stock

½ cup heavy cream

1 cup green peas

½ cup grated Parmesan cheese

Chicken, mushrooms and turnips

6 skin-on, boneless, free-range chicken breasts

Salt and pepper

3 tablespoons olive oil

2 pounds enoki mushrooms

3 pounds baby turnips

½ cup chicken stock

Risotto

To prepare the risotto, bring chicken stock to a simmer in a large pot. Heat a second large pot or braising pan with olive oil over medium heat. Sauté the onions and garlic until the onions start to become translucent.

Add barley and toast for 3 minutes. Add white wine and reduce wine until nearly evaporated, around 1½–2 minutes. Slowly add chicken stock to the barley a few ladles at a time. Stir frequently, and once the stock is absorbed repeat the process until all the stock is used and the barley is soft. It should still have a nice “al dente” texture. Cover and hold off heat until chicken is finished.

Just before serving, turn risotto back on medium heat. Add heavy cream and reduce for about 1 minute. Add green peas and Parmesan cheese. Season with salt and pepper to taste.

Chicken

Preheat oven to 500° F. Clean and trim any excess fat or cartilage from the chicken breasts. Pat down breasts with paper towel to remove any excess moisture and sprinkle both sides with salt and pepper. In a large oven-safe sauté pan, heat olive oil over medium heat to smoking point. Place chicken skin side down, shaking the pan to ensure the chicken does not stick. Place the pan in the oven and roast chicken for 15 minutes. Flip the breasts over and continue

to roast for another 5 minutes. Pull out chicken, transfer to a plate and allow to rest.

Meanwhile, season mushrooms and turnips with salt and pepper. Place them in the same pan used to roast the chicken. Place the pan in the oven and roast vegetables for about 3 minutes, depending on the size of turnips. Pull out the pan and transfer the vegetables to a plate to rest. Deglaze the pan with the chicken stock. Pour the pan juices over the mushrooms and turnips, and plate them along with the chicken and risotto. Enjoy!

food include fried green tomatoes (from America); polse med lompe (a Norwegian dish featuring a sausage wrapped in potato flatbread); jerk chicken (featuring Jamaican jerk marinade on free-range chicken); and Black Garlic Pad Thai (his award-winning dish of rice noodles with chicken, peanuts and scallions).

Teaching children to cook is a significant passion for Heredia. He volunteers at the Polinsky Children’s Center, where he teaches cooking to foster children. He has also participated in a career day there. “I love to do anything with kids,” he says.

He also teaches an eight-week cooking class

to fourth- through eighth-graders at nearby Einstein Academy, funded this year by the Friends of Einstein. His classes started soon after the restaurant opened.

“We go on a field trip to Suzie’s Farm,” he says of the class. The culmination of the class is a three-course dinner with seasonal produce and grass fed beef, held at Alchemy with the children, parents and some teachers.

Heredia is also ever mindful of farm workers, “an endangered species,” he says. Heredia is inspired by his grandfather, who was a migrant worker and later an advocate for César Chavez.

“What’s exciting, too, is to see what’s good every season. Some things are better on certain years. It’s fun and creative. I love to anticipate and explore.”

The name Alchemy came to Troyano when he and Thomas were planning the restaurant. They felt it was perfect: “the transmutation of something ordinary into something special.” And that is what, with Chef Ricardo’s touch, it has become.

Karen Kenyon has been a freelance journalist for 35 years --and has written about the arts, travel, and food. For several years she wrote food stories for The San Diego Union-Tribune. She is very inspired by the organic gardens in SD schools!

Crispy-Skin Chicken with Barley Risotto, Enoki Mushrooms and Baby Turnips

Phot

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Mar

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Hol

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oN the road

Boules Restaurant & Bar in San Miguel, Baja California Norte: Definitely worth a day trip

A new generation of local cuisine

is thriving just south of the border

By Lauren MahanPhotography by

Lauren & Mike Mahan

The game of pétanque, pronounced “PAY-tonk” “originated in the south of France in the early 1900s. A cousin to both horseshoes and the Italian bowling game of bocce, pétanque is one of Europe’s most popular outdoor games, as anyone who has visited the Champs de Mars in Paris will attest.

The object of the game is to toss or roll a number of hollow steel balls (boules) as close as possible to a small wooden target ball, called the cochonnet (French for “piglet”), and/or to move your opponent’s boules away from the target. Unlike horseshoes, where the stake you are aiming for is fi xed, the cochonnet ball may be hit and relocated at any time, which can completely upset the score at the last second.

If it’s been a while since you’ve dined at any of Northern Baja’s coastal destinations, you’re in for a treat. As someone who’s

visited Ensenada and points north for more than 20 years, I have witnessed fi rsthand the evolution of the local cuisine from standard combination-plate Mexican fare to a level of culinary excellence that is undeniable.

And while I can’t say for certain, I would hazard a guess that the availability of increasingly better-quality wines from the nearby Guadalupe Valley is in part responsible. (Where there’s quality wine, quality cuisine will follow.)

Today, there are no fewer than 16 restaurants between San Miguel and Ensenada, all featuring local food. Unlike the sea of tourist joints that line the waterfront farther south in Ensenada, these locally minded restaurants—which cater more to local gastronomes, savvy ex-pats and frequent visitors like me—are doing well in the current economy. And given the relatively moderate prices for both food and local wines, it’s not hard to understand why.

One of my favorites is Boules, which was opened in 2010 by veteran restaurateur Javier “Javi” Martinez. Boules—which derives its name from the steel balls, or boules, used in the French game of pétanque—is located in

the sleepy coastal town of San Miguel, just 62 miles from the San Ysidro border crossing and just past the Ensenada tollbooth going south. Th e restaurant’s atmosphere is casual and familiar, with a breathtaking view of the port of Sauzal and Ensenada Bay. It’s a setting suitable for weddings and parties.

Th e menu at Boules is seasonal, fresh and always inspired. Th e cuisine is Baja-Med, with plenty of seafood and grilled meats. Appetizers are in the US $4–$6 range, and have included dishes such as Ejotes Salteados (salted Mexican string beans), Almeja Chocolate (steamed clams with chocolate sauce) and Triadito Pescado (sashimi with soy sauce and ginger). My personal favorite is Tuétano, which translates as “bone marrow” and consists of baked beef bones with homemade mini corn tortillas on which to spread the salty, tasty liquefi ed marrow along with various condiments.

Entrees range from about US $9 to $14 and have included dishes such as Rissoto de

Portobello con Pato (risotto with Portobello mushrooms and duck—one of my favorites), Pasta de Almeja Manila (pasta with Manila clams) and Rissoto de Huitlacoche con Borrego (risotto with corn fungus and lamb shoulder—don’t be afraid of the corn fungus, my husband loves this dish!

“My wife, Galia, and I had always dreamed of owning a restaurant with a unique and local style that could become a gathering place for our friends and family,” says Javi, who was the former manager and part owner at world-class chef Benito Molina’s Restaurante Manzanilla in Ensenada. Th at dream has become a reality at Boules, where children are free to mingle with many of Ensenada’s up-and-coming chefs, who frequently stop by on Mondays for a game of boules (a weekly event known as “Lunes de Pétanque”).

The Game of Pétanque


Unlike the sea of tourist joints that line the waterfront farther south in Ensenada, these locally minded restaurants—which cater more to local gastronomes, savvy ex-pats and frequent visitors like me—are doing well in the current economy.


A family tradition of fine dining and local fareGalia Bitterlin’s family has been part of the mainstream Ensenada culinary scene for more than five decades. Anyone who is familiar with downtown Ensenada will recognize El Rey Sol at the corner of Av. Lopez Mateos and Av. Blancarte (elreysol.com) as a family-owned landmark that has offered fine French cuisine and pastries since 1947.

“After several years abroad and marriage to French artist Jacques Bitterlin, my grandmother Virginia returned to her Mexican birthplace, where she earned the nickname pepita as a misinterpretation of the French petite,” explains Galia. “Each day she would travel to the family farm, Rancho Las Animas, to collect fresh herbs, produce and poultry, plucking the chickens on her way back to town.”

Today the Martinez-Bitterlin family influence is ever-present at Boules. Galia, Javi’s partner in both business and marriage, serves as assistant manager. Galia’s mother,

Cecelia, an artist who lived and received her formal education at St. Patrick’s School in San Diego, created the stained glass window that oversees the dining room at Boules and also the signature Boules design on restaurant plates. Javi’s brother David Martinez, an accomplished pianist who is a restaurateur and owner of Muelle Tres restaurant (www.muelletres.com) on the embarcadero in Ensenada, can often be spotted competing in a game of pétanque at Boules.

Javi, who spent his senior year of high school as an exchange student in Cedar Falls, Iowa, explains to me in perfect English, “The restaurant business can be very demanding. But in a restaurant like Boules that’s all about good local food, family and friends, it’s definitely worth it.”

Lauren Mahan ([email protected]) is a freelance writer with over 30 years’ experience, based in Valley Center.

Visitor InformationHours: Thursday–Saturday 1–10pm; Sunday and Monday 1–8pm

Phone: 175-87-69 in Mexico or 011-52-646-175-87-69 from the US

Directions: From the San Ysidro border crossing, stay right and follow the signs to Playas/Rosarita and the Ensenada Quota toll road. Continue for approximately one hour through three toll stations (toll fee: US $2.60). Just after the third tollbooth, turn right at the sign for San Miguel. Continue straight, then turn left before the pay parking area to reach the free parking lot at Boules.

Traveler’s note: Since traveling back across the San Ysidro border crossing can take an hour or more, my husband and I prefer to head home through the Guadalupe Valley, which offers an abundance of wine tasting opportunities along the way. Take Route 3 north of Ensenada heading east toward the wine country. When leaving Guadalupe Valley continue north and travel approximately one hour to Tecate, then continue through several stop signs. Turn right at the McDonald’s and follow the signs to Garita San Diego.

“ The restaurant business can be very demanding. But in a restaurant like Boules that’s all about good local food, family and friends, it’s definitely worth it.”


You may have seen his face a couple of years ago. On TV. Proclaiming something many of us might consider TMI—too

much information: “I turn number two into energy!”

That would be 43-year-old Lakeside dairyman Dave Van Ommering in an “I’m a PC” commercial. Many San Diegans don’t know the Van Ommering Dairy because its milk isn’t sold locally. But nevertheless, Van Ommering got his 15 minutes of media stardom in San Diego and the West Coast agriculture world because he and his older brother Robert were, in fact, transforming cow manure into energy after having constructed a methane digester on their 120-acre property.

The methane digester, which the brothers built in 2006 but is temporarily out of commission right now, is one of several ways the Van Ommerings have creatively sought to ward off the plight that trampled the dairy industry in San Diego. In its heyday—the late 1940s—San Diego County had 130 to 150 dairies, according to Eric Larson, executive director of the San Diego County Farm Bureau. Dairies were primarily clustered in Mission Valley and Oceanside. Back then, milk was actually the leading agriculture product here.

But a combination of factors led to the demise of the local dairy industry—economies of scale that required a lot of cheap flat land not found in San Diego, the passage of the Clean Water Act in the 1970s that targeted pollution from dairies and forced many to go out of business and the improvement of refrigeration and dairy handling that consequently no longer required dairies to be near the cities they supplied. With land so expensive and regulation tightly enforced, the local dairy industry languished. Today, the Van Ommerings are one of just four dairies left in the region.

Facing Down the Perfect StormThe Van Ommerings are second-generation dairymen here. Their parents, Gerrit and Gerry, emigrated to San Diego from Holland in the 1950s. They started the dairy, set on rugged picturesque terrain at the foot of the El Capitan hills in the El Monte Valley, in 1960. The brothers eventually took it over when their father died. Robert

In its heyday—the late 1940s—San Diego County had 130 to 150 dairies. Back then, milk was actually the leading agriculture product here.

The Cream of the CropStory and photography by Caron Golden


handles the books, manure management and the dairy. Dave, who studied agriculture business at Cal Poly, San Luis Obispo, manages the calves, agri-tourism and the property’s maintenance.

The main business is the production of raw milk, which they sell through a cooperative to processors who turn it into cheese, butter and milk powder products. However, the Van Ommerings have had to be innovative to keep the business going once, as Dave Van Ommering said, “a perfect storm of negative factors” influenced a downward spiral of prices for their milk. The recession led to a decrease in people dining out in restaurants, which reduced the consumption of dairy products. New Zealand’s and Australia’s drought receded and with their re-entry into the milk market came an oversaturation of product when consumption was already plunging. And, given that dairy inventory and production—i.e., cows and milk—can’t easily be reduced in slower times, dairies like the Van Ommerings were smacked down hard.

What the Van Ommerings did was painful but necessary. In 2008, they placed a bid in Cooperatives Working Together, a program operated by the dairy industry, to retire much of their herd. It went from

approximately 500 Holstein cows in January 2009 down to 50. They also began to assess what else they could do.

“We had to diversify,” he explained. “You can’t make it with just cows in Southern California because of the economics. The costs here are higher, between feed and electricity. We grow rye grass for our cows but that’s less than 2% of what’s needed. We have to haul in most of our feed. We’re just very lucky we have a well; we’d be out of business without it.”

They started selling their manure to farmers, including backyard farmers, but that is a small part of their income. What’s gotten them through the worst of times has been agri-tourism. Many young families have visited Oma’s Pumpkin Patch, which sells pumpkins

grown by the family, C&R Farms in Hemet and one of the dairy’s three employees. Along with the pumpkin sales is a gi-normous mountain of cotton seed that young kids can toboggan down. The seed is eventually fed to the cows. And Brenda Van Ommering, Dave’s wife, runs a dairy education program for school children. There’s a little petting zoo with calves, lambs and goats. During the holidays, the Van Ommerings set up Oma’s Christmas Tree Patch, a Christmas tree lot. In 2000, when the pumpkin patch opened, they had 500 visitors. Today, the count is over 25,000.

“Dave’s got a lot of imagination,” said Larson. “You’ll see some farmers who lament that a particular crop isn’t going well but keep planting it. Dave will try to think of how else to utilize the land. He’s seen as a bright light.”

Rebuilding for the FutureThat bright light was named Farmer of the Year in 2010 by the San Diego County Farm Bureau. Van Ommering was an officer for eight years on the Farm Bureau’s

“ We had to diversify,” he explained. “You can’t make it with just cows in Southern California because of the economics. The costs here are higher, between feed and electricity. We’re just very lucky we have a well; we’d be out of business without it.”

Children sliding down cotton seed hill.

Dave and Brenda Van Ommering

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board of directors, including one year as president.

“He’s a dairyman but he recognizes the universal issues that affect our agriculture community, like the price of water, water availability and insects and pests,” Larson noted. “It may not affect him directly but he understands that they’re community issues. We loved when he represented the Farm Bureau in public. He’s an excellent public presence. There are only four dairymen out of 6,000 farmers and one of them managed to become president of the organization.”

In the last couple of years, the Van

Ommerings have rebuilt their herd. They now have 550 Holsteins and Jerseys, of which 250 are currently milking cows producing 1,750 gallons of milk daily. When they’re not milking, they lounge around on sturdy water beds in the free-stall barn, each day noshing on 30 pounds of hay and a grain mixture of rice flour, cotton seed, corn, oats, barley, almond hulls, and brewers grain—all washed down with 30 gallons of water.

You would think the obvious thing for the family to do in a time when so many people are craving local food products would be to open a creamery. “They’d make a killing,” said Larson.

And, in fact, Dave Van Ommering said that it’s something the family is considering. But he and his brother are admittedly gun-shy. Both worked in a creamery when they were young and know what goes into making it successful. In other words, given the money they’ve put into the dairy to keep it going, they’d need outside investors.

But he acknowledged, along with the pumpkin patch, a creamery would be a source of constant cash flow. And something more to pass on to his three children.

“I love the lifestyle here,” he said. And then gave the common lament of a dairyman. “The only downside is that I always see things that need to be fixed. It’s a constant.”

Caron Golden is an award-winning freelance writer and the author of the blog San Diego Foodstuff. She writes the Local Bounty column for San Diego Magazine, and has contributed to Saveur, Culinate, Sunset, the Los Angeles

Times, and many others.

In the last couple of years, the Van Ommerings have rebuilt their herd. They now have 550 Holsteins and Jerseys, of which 250 are currently milking cows producing 1,750 gallons of milk daily.

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Going back to the Farm ... BillBy Jill Richardson

For Americans who want to see the food system change, an exciting year is upon us. The biggest

piece of legislation that affects our food system—the Farm Bill—must be passed in 2012. Some argue that it should be called the “Food and Farm Bill,” which would be accurate as the largest share of the bill’s dollars go to buy food under federal nutrition programs such as The Program Formerly Known as Food Stamps (now called SNAP). But currently, the bill mostly benefits one kind of farms (big) and one kind of food (junk).

How can the farm bill promote healthy and sustainable food and farms instead? This article provides a basic description of how we can understand—and influence—the farm bill, with extra details about a few programs of interest for sustainable-ag advocates.


The BasicsToday’s farm bill is descended from the first farm bill, which was passed in 1933 as part of the New Deal. Passed every five or so years since then, each farm bill is divided into a number of different topics, called titles. Most significant among them are: Commodities (i.e. subsidies), Conservation, Nutrition (i.e. programs like SNAP) and Competition.

“The blessing and curse of the farm bill is that it’s so damn big. There’s something in it for everyone,” said Patty Lovera, assistant director of Food and Water Watch. However, she provides a useful framework to understand this immense bill. One set of policies impact whether there are fair markets for farmers. These include whether antitrust laws are enforced and new ones are written and implemented to meet changing times, commodity policy and—to some extent—conservation.

The other important set of policies are ones that promote local and regional food systems, like programs to benefit young and beginning farmers; reorienting USDA research to study useful areas for small, diversified and organic farmers; and building infrastructure like processing plants to meet the needs of these farmers.

“It’s good to get new farmers on the land, but not if they get into the big ag machine that just spits them out again,” said Lovera.

CommoditiesThe Commodities title essentially seeks to find a way to ensure commodity farmers are fairly compensated for their crops. There are three basic ways to do this: limit supply (i.e. by setting aside land for conservation), set a floor price, or let supply and demand rise and fall with the market

and pay farmers subsidies when the price falls below a government-determined “fair” price. Over time, we’ve used all three of these methods, but now we tend to favor subsidies. Increasingly, we are shifting money from government subsidies to government-subsidized crop insurance.

For sustainable and fair food advocates, there are a few main principles any commodity, subsidy or crop insurance policy should adhere to. First, any taxpayer money spent as subsidies or subsidized crop insurance should go to those who most need it. For example, should a billionaire receive government money just because he or she happens to own a farm? What if—as Ferd Hoefner, policy director at the National Sustainable Agriculture Coalition (NSAC), joked—Ted Turner decided to buy the entire state of Montana and he grew wheat on half of it. Should taxpayers pay 60% of his crop insurance premium? Directing money to those who need it most can be done with caps on the total amount of subsidies or other benefits farmers receive as well as by limits on the income of those who receive government money.

Second, farmers receiving taxpayer money should be required to adhere to a bare minimum of environmental stewardship. While that might not mean requiring farmers to convert to organic production, historically it has at least required that farmers do not drain wetlands on their property and that farmers with erodible land make plans to avoid future soil erosion. These minimal standards should be extended to the newer programs farmers benefit from and—I would argue—the standards should be raised to meet the changing times (i.e. new methods and technology farmers can use to care for the environment, and a greater need to do so due to climate change).

Last, which farmers benefit? Initially, subsidies went to farmers growing commodities that could be stored, because the government program involved buying farmers’ crops when prices fell too low, storing them and releasing them onto the market during times of scarcity. Now that

farmers’ safety net no longer involves storing crops, how can we provide a safety net to farmers with diversified farms and those who grow perishable crops that is equal to the safety net of commodity farmers?

Competition ReformA term you might hear as the farm bill debate heats up is “the GIPSA rule.” The name itself, which refers to the USDA’s Grain Inspection Packers and Stockyards Agency, is not important. What IS important is

“It’s good to get new farmers on the land, but not if they get into the big ag machine that just spits them out again,” said Lovera.

Farmers receiving taxpayer money should be required to adhere to a bare minimum of environmental stewardship.


that the 2008 farm bill was the first farm bill to include a Competition title that dealt with problems of unfair markets for livestock farmers. The farm bill directed the USDA to write a rule to make livestock markets fair, and when GIPSA released its proposed rule, the highly consolidated and very powerful meat packing industry went berserk. To them, the idea of fair markets and fair competition sounds terrible. The GIPSA rule needs to be implemented. It’s also likely that more gains for fair competition should be written into the next farm bill. Last, we need to be on our guard so that the 2012 farm bill doesn’t revoke the gains made in the 2008 farm bill.

Help for Beginning FarmersThe last farm bill funded a brand new grant program for beginning farmers and ranchers. Hoefner says the program was highly successful, as it provided $75 million in grants and helped farmers make down payments on their farms by lowering loan interest rates to 1%. In the 2012 farm bill, NSAC is advocating a renewal of the program, with an increase in grant funds to $125 million. Additionally, they are requesting a microloan program for young beginning farmers, as a new farmer might need a loan for $20,000, not $300,000. Another part of this effort involves working with the Veterans Administration to help vets use their GI benefits for farmer training. Currently, NSAC is working with Congress to introduce the Beginning Farmer and Rancher Opportunity Act of 2011, which will outline specific requests that they hope to see included as part of the 2012 farm bill.

Community Food ProjectsAnother successful program sustainable

food advocates can rally around is the Community Food Projects Competitive Grant Program. In bureaucratic speak,

the grants go to projects “designed to (1): (A) meet the food needs of low-income people; (B) increase the self-reliance of communities in providing for their own food needs; and (C) promote comprehensive responses to local food, farm, and nutrition issues; and/or (2) meet specific state, local, or neighborhood food and agriculture needs for (A) infrastructure improvement and development; (B) planning for long-term solutions; or (C) the creation of innovative marketing activities that mutually benefit agricultural producers and low-income consumers.”

In more understandable terms, examples of grantees in the past include the Hopi Community Food System Restoration, a project to expand a CSA among the Hopi people and to revitalize traditional terrace gardens and farming practices; the Green Market Community Food Project, a California-based project designed to link low-income immigrant farmers in the Central Coast region with immigrant food microentrepreneurs in the San Francisco Bay area; and SEE-LA’s Farmer’s Kitchen, which created a teaching and retail kitchen in Los Angeles “to support educational programs emphasizing fresh

produce consumption, job training, and food and nutrition education” for Hollywood’s low-income population.

Last farm bill, sustainable food advocates fought hard to maintain Community Food Projects’ funding at $5 million per year, despite initial hopes of increasing funding to $10 million. This year, with the fanaticism for budget cutting steering Congress, we might be up for a fight once again, whether we are fighting for more money or just the same amount we got last time.

The TimelineIf Congress does not pass a new farm bill by the time the previous farm bill ends (in this case, September 30, 2012), then the law will revert back to the 1949 farm bill. If it appears that Congress will not meet its deadline (as happened in 2007), it can temporarily extend the last farm bill to buy some time. Thus, the 2012 farm bill might actually become the 2013 farm bill. (That could be a good thing if November’s elections result in a Congress that is friendlier to sustainable agriculture.)

How to Get InvolvedThe 2012 farm bill will likely be more of a marathon than a sprint. The debate is still being framed, and issues that need immediate and intense support will pop up occasionally throughout the entire process. If you would like to stay informed and contact your elected representatives when issues arise that require action, head over to the Food and Water Watch and the National Sustainable Agriculture Coalition websites and sign up for their mailing lists.

Jill Richardson is the founder of the blog La Vida Locavore and the author of Recipe for America: Why Our Food System is Broken and What We Can Do To Fix It. She is currently working on a book about how the U.S. uses agricultural aid and promotion of genetically modified organisms as tools of imperialism around the world.

The farm bill directed the USDA to write a rule to make livestock markets fair, and when GIPSA released its proposed rule, the highly consolidated and very powerful meat packing industry went berserk. To them, the idea of fair markets and fair competition sounds terrible.


For more information about the 2012 Farm Bill:• Institute for Agriculture and Trade Policy Farm Bill 2012

http://www.iatp.org/project/farm-bill-2012• National Sustainable Agriculture Coalition Take Action

page http://sustainableagriculture.net/take-action/• AFT Farm Bill 2012, A Time for Transformation

http://www.farmbillfacts.org/


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Fudgy Black Bean BrowniesIn this nutritious twist on traditional brownies, the classic, rich chocolate flavor dominates. Black beans offer a high- fiber, high-protein replacement for flour. Applesauce replaces oil and Sucanat, the “whole grain” of sugars, stands in as a low-glycemic choice for a natural sweetener.

1 15-oz. can of organic black beans, rinsed and drained

2 tablespoons apple sauce

¾ cup Sucanat (or sugar)

¼ cup unsweetened cocoa powder/raw cacao powder

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

1 teaspoon instant coffee grounds

½ teaspoon baking powder

½ teaspoon sea salt

2 eggs (or egg substitute)

½ cup chocolate chips (divided)

Cooking spray

½ cup chopped walnuts or pecans (optional)

½ cup crushed peppermint stick, King Leo brand (optional)

Chocolate sauce

Preheat oven to 350° F.

Lightly spray an 8-inch brownie pan or brownie bites molds.

In a food processor, blend beans and apple sauce until smooth. Add Sucanat, cocoa

powder, vanilla, instant coffee, baking powder and sea salt to bean mixture. When mixture is very smooth, add eggs. Gently fold in ¼ cup of chocolate chips. Add nuts if desired. Slowly pour into pan. Sprinkle remaining ¼ cup chocolate chips over brownies. Bake 25-30 minutes. Check for doneness with a toothpick and watch for edges to begin to pull away from pan. Brownies are best served warm. Drizzle with chocolate sauce and sprinkle with crushed peppermint stick before serving. To store, refrigerate in an airtight container for up to one week.

Recipe and photo courtesy of Clea Shannnon, certified holistic health coach (CHHC) and gluten-free guide.

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/ eggplant/ ; is a plant of the family Solanceae (also known as the nightshades) and genus Solanum. it bears a fruit of the same name, commonly used in cooking. as a nightshade, it is closely related to the tomato and potato and is native to India.

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nourish your soul, nourish yourself

Chances are good that you’re already buying food in a sustainable manner. You purchase your produce from farmers’ markets or other local food purveyors and eat seasonally. You may even grow your own produce or have chickens scurrying around your backyard.

But what about the next step—how you prepare those ingredients? You might like to think about sustainable cookware, tableware and cleaning supplies.

What is sustainable cookware? Ideally it will last for generations, won’t leach toxic chemicals into your food, and will be easy to use and clean. There are many choices for sustainable cookware available online and at retail stores. Here are some popular choices.

The most old-fashioned and least expensive option is cast iron. It’s remarkably durable, naturally nonstick (once seasoned with cooking oil) and doesn’t need to be cleaned with harsh detergents. A 12-inch cast-iron skillet typically costs between $20 and $35.

If you’d like a stylish yet environmentally safe nonstick pan, consider Scanpan Cookware. Whereas traditional nonstick pans are made with environmentally harmful perfluorochemicals (PFCs)—chemicals that resist heat, oil, water and grease—Scanpan pans are made with a safer ceramic-titanium nonstick surface. Foods can be fried in these pans over high heat without added fats or oils, making them ideal for sautéing and searing. A 12-inch Scanpan nonstick fry

Beyond the PlateSustainable Kitchen— and Tableware

By Susan Russo


B

A

C

Ed

G

F

pan costs $100 while an 11-piece cookware set is $500. Available locally at Great News Cookware and Cooking School as well as online at scanpancookware.com and many other websites.

Emile Henry Cookware and Bakeware, made from natural clay, is beautiful, durable and lead-free. They’re also naturally nonstick and are easy to wash either by hand or in the dishwasher. Prices range from $23 for a salad bowl to $150 for a 5.5-quart covered casserole. Available locally at Great News as well as online at emilehenryusa.com and many other websites.

When it comes to cutting boards, you’ve got lots of choices. Epicurean makes numerous aesthetically pleasing cutting boards from

eco-friendly materials such as bamboo, recycled paper and recycled polyester. Erika D’Eugenio, general manager of Great News Cookware and Cooking School, says, “Epicurean are the only cutting boards we use in our cooking classes. They’re the only boards that are eco-friendly, dishwasher safe and easy on your knives. They’re all I use at home now too.” Epicurean cutting boards average $35 and are available locally at Great News as well as online at epicureancs.com and many other websites.

You might be surprised to learn that cheerfully colored Melaboo kitchen accessories such as measuring spoons ($7), measuring cups ($10), a serving utensil set ($20) and a mixing bowl set ($39) are both


FF

H

i

j

k The kitchen pictured—designed by Studio Christophers and displayed at Fixtures Living in San Diego—is packed with environmentally sound and locally-sourced features: • Lighting —energy efficient and long lasting fluorescent bulbs

and LED fixtures controlled by occupant sensors• Tile—manufactured by a local company, Mexican Handcraft Tile.• Counter tops—marble and a Silestone product made partially

with recycled material in an eco-oriented manufacturing process.• Cabinetry —made from sustainably grown wood and sealed

with VOC-free product from a local manufacturer.

A Cast iron pan and Staub Dutch oven. Cast iron is an energy-efficient material, absorbing and distributing heat evenly, allowing for low to medium cooking heat which uses less energy. Cast iron like Staub is expensive but is heirloom quality and a dream to cook with. Cast iron is incredibly durable.

B Scanpan

C Kids Konserve reusable food storage available locally at Progress in South Park. Perfect for small people and little leftovers.

d Weck and Ball reusable glass topped canning jars are great food storage containers.

E Bamboo spatula by Joyce Chen. As a renewable resource, bamboo is stronger than wood and will not swell or split.

F Handcrafted acacia wood tasting spoons, salad servers and serving tray from Pacific Merchants. Acacia is a very fast growing wood and thus a renewable resource. Available at Progress in South Park.

G Heath Ceramics in Sausalito, California manufactures heirloom quality, beautifully designed and extremely durable ceramics. They comply with the strictest environmental standards and pay and treat their staff equitably.

H Emile Henry bowls and baking dish

i Full-Circle Natural Cleaning Kit

j Skoy Cloth —durable and can replace paper towels for many tasks

k Omni Butcher Blocks. Locally handcrafted and available at the Solana Beach Farmers Market. Made from black walnut and hard sugar maple, these cutting boards are durable and beautiful.

Photo: Chris Rov Costa

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functional and made from 100% biodegradable bamboo fi bers. Th ey’re available online at bambeco.com.

Preserve Products makes numerous kitchen and tableware products from 100% recycled plastics and post-consumer paper. Popular items include their BPA-free food storage containers ($14 for the value pack) and Everyday Tableware Pack of bowls, plates and cups ($21) made from 100% recycled plastic. All Preserve Products are available online at preserveproducts.com, and many can be found locally at Th e Kitchen Sink in South Park.

Th e next time you throw a party, consider using chic VerTerra dinnerware, which is made from fallen leaves and water, making these dishes all-natural, nontoxic, biodegradable and compostable. Or try Aspenware, another stylish, renewable and biodegradable line of dinnerware. Renowned San Diego caterer Andrew Spurgin, who recently launched Campine Catering with Antonio Friscia and Brian Malarkey, says that “Campine uses these products for all our events requiring disposable needs. Th ey are compostable. Th ey

have no chemicals in them ... [and] every time we use these products people love them, especially the VerTerra plates. Th ey are as close to art as a plate can get.” Retail stores

selling VerTerra products are listed online at verterra.com, and Aspenware is available online at aspenware.ca.

Now that you’ve greened your kitchen cookware, you’ll want to clean it with green products. Full Circle off ers a

line of attractive, functional, and ergonomically designed cleaning products including bottle brushes ($6), organic dish towels ($6 for 3-pack) and cellulose cloths (a reusable,

natural alternative to paper towels) ($4 for 3-pack) that are made from renewable and sustainable materials. Great News sells Full Circle’s Natural Cleaning Kit ($25), which will let you create your own eco-friendly cleaning system. All Full Circle products are available online at fullcirclehome.com.

Susan Russo is a San Diego–based food writer and cookbook author. She has a nationally recognized food blog, foodblogga.blogspot.com. She is a regular contributor to NPR’s Kitchen Window and has been selected “Best of the Web” by Saveur. Reach her at [email protected].

Local Resources

Great News Cookware & Cooking School Pacifi c Plaza1788 Garnet Ave.San Diego, CA 92109858-478-2433

Great News off ers a wide variety of sustainable kitchen products, cookware and cleaning items.

Th e Kitchen SinkTh ere is a retail store at Th e Grove at Juniper and 30th Streets in South Park and an online store at thekitchensinkshop.com off ering a good selection of eco-friendly tableware, storage containers and kitchen gadgets.

7 Hopes United Fair Trade Gift s7 Hopes has an online store and a pop-up boutique in UTC Westfi eld right outside Th e Gap and sells at several area farmers’ markets. Sustainable kitchen items include kitchen textiles, serving spoons, glassware, and cutting boards. sevenhopesunited.com

Other helpful online sites for green kitchen products:

Pristine Planet: pristineplanet.com

Green Feet: Th e Planet’s Homestore: greenfeet.com

www.leucadiafarmersmarket.com


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By Vincent RossiPhotography by Chris Rov Costa

“Not the Most, Simply the Best” is the motto of Connelly Farms in Ramona. That motto refers to co-owner Ryan Connelly’s philosophy of quality over quantity. Anyone unfamiliar with the operation might think the motto simply reflects the limitations of a small family farm covering just under two acres off a hilly road on Ramona’s east side. Connelly Farms certainly does make optimal use of limited space, boasting on its website (connellyfarms.com), “We grow on every square foot we can except for the animal yard.”

Yet the farm’s philosophy is far from a matter of simply squeezing big results from a small space. Connelly takes advantage of San Diego’s climate to produce a wide array of produce. “We harvest every week,” he says. Seasonal offerings of fruits and vegetables include a number of specialty and heirloom varieties. The farm also sells free-range eggs and meat goats.

Connelly Farms offers its products to individual buyers through a year-round farm stand. They also sell to a number of restaurants in San Diego County, including Bernard’O and the Rancho Bernardo Inn. They deliver as well to Ramona Family Naturals store in Ramona.

In addition, Connelly offers a unique “micro farm” option to individual consumers, restaurants and/or businesses seeking to grow their own produce. Among the micro farm clients are Old Coach Vineyard in Poway, the Bridges at Rancho Santa Fe and Café Merlot in Rancho Bernardo.

Small Space, Diverse Offerings“I like to grow things that people enjoy,” Ryan says, “but I also try to push the envelope, growing more special things. I choose the ones that are right for our climate, for flavor and aesthetics.”

A tour of Connelly Farms is like a primer on crop diversity. A cluster of citrus trees near the farmhouse holds navel oranges, blood oranges, tangerines and tangelos. On the outer edges of this citrus oasis is an herb garden, with sage, thyme, oregano and tarragon. Another section

contains purple artichokes, most of which had just been harvested when I visited. Ryan talks of how he selectively cultivates the plants, removing some, adding others, “for size, appearance and color.” He chose this type of artichoke because it has fewer spines.

Rows of root vegetables include French breakfast radishes. “Toni digs on those,” Ryan says, referring to Toni Kraft, co-owner of Café Merlot, one of his micro farming clients. White and orange carrots were also growing.

In his pepper field, Connelly points out a pimento pepper. “This is what they stuff olives with. It’s so much sweeter than a bell variety.”

A few more steps reveal rows of green beans and snap peas, then squash and eggplant, including a variety with alternating purple and white stripes called a Nubia.

Connelly grows 12 kinds of lettuce—four speckled varieties, four red and four green. “We like to keep 10 to 12 varieties of lettuce growing at a given time.” One example is Green Romaine. “It’s a cross of the traditional Romaine with Butterhead lettuce,” says Ryan.

Connelly Farms Makes the Most of Two Acres


“You still get all the vigor and strength of Romaine and more of the supple, soft taste of the Butterhead.”

Connelly has developed a type of shallot that’s exclusive to his farm. These shallots can reach three pounds in weight and a foot in length, he said. They are “absolutely the best shallot out there. More pungent,” says Ryan.

Orange and purple cauliflower, rapini, Swiss chard and 26 varieties of heirloom tomatoes are among the other vegetables he grows. Seasonal fruits include apricots, peaches, plums and nectarines. Connelly grows three kinds of figs: Brown Turkey, Black Mission and Pinache.

His stone fruit and fig orchards also provide a foraging area for the farm’s range-run chickens.

The fence around his animal yard has a square of removable wire, a “chicken door” that Ryan opens each afternoon to let his flock wander around. They all return by door-closing time “because they know they’re protected,” says Connelly.

The farm products Connelly offers reflect Ryan’s experience and interests.

A tour of Connelly Farms is like a primer on crop diversity.

David Evans and Ryan Connelly


A Conscientious FamilyConnelly co-owns and operates the farm with his mother, Ann. His father, Neil, works for the county agriculture department. The family bought the property in 1985. Ryan, 30, has a degree in agricultural plant science from Cal Poly at Pomona “with an emphasis in agronomy and fruit production,” he said.

They are committed to organic, sustainable farming methods. “We are an all-natural, integrated-pest-management-run farm,” Ryan says. “We use no pesticides. We only release beneficial insects, like ladybugs or lacewing larva, to get the bad ones.” Bat and owl boxes house natural predators of insects and rodents.

Connelly feeds his crop residues to the animals and uses their pen cleanings in the farm’s compost, closing a circle of sustainability.

Connelly Farms currently has two part-time employees, but Ryan says one will be going full time shortly. He is hoping to double his production.

Beyond the FarmA growing group of regular farm stand customers constitute what Ryan calls an “informal CSA.” He says, “We schedule certain pickup days for them.”

At this point, the farm stand forms about half the operation’s business, with the other half going to restaurant and other business buyers and micro farm clients.

Under the micro farm program, initiated in 2005, Connelly installs and/or maintains produce plots of different sizes at customer locations. For a varying set of fees, he offers consultation, installation and maintenance of the mini-farm.

“It’s not just a garden. We keep it rotating 365 days a year,” says Connelly. He figures out the available crops, consulting with individual clients as to their wants or needs. “I don’t just force my likes on someone. Some people like kale; others like their root vegetables. But I like to introduce things. I just make sure that everything that comes out of the garden is something they want.”

Toni Kraft, whose Café Merlot is located in the Bernardo Winery, has had a mini-farm on a 1,500-square-foot plot behind her restaurant for a year now. “I got the ground ready for him and Ryan

Connelly feeds his crop residues to the animals and uses their pen cleanings in the farm’s compost, closing a circle of sustainability.

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Goats, chickens, ducks and turkeys happily coexist in the animal yard. Connelly has Araucana, Rhode Island Red and Leghorn chickens.

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pretty much took it from there.”

“It’s going great. We’re expanding,” Kraft said recently.

Among the crops growing on the mini-farm are herbs, carrots, artichokes, Swiss chard and candy-striped beets, said Kraft . All the produce is utilized by the restaurant.

Kraft said Connelly provided “a lot of recommendations” as to produce and set up the irrigation system.

“It’s really helped our production in and of itself and because we are a green restaurant,” said Kraft , who said she also does her own composting and shares whatever she can’t use with Connelly.

Ryan has also joined Kraft in classes Café Merlot holds on cooking, farmers’ markets and culinary medicine.

“We love growing the products and, even more, we love people enjoying the products we’ve been able to provide,” he says. He was motivated both with the farm stand and the micro farms to “show people it’s closer than they think, bringing people out of their house and into nature to enjoy the benefi ts of harvesting one’s own product.”

Vincent Rossi is a freelance writer whose work has appeared in newspapers (San Diego Union Tribune, San Jose Mercury News), online (San Diego News Network, Patch.com) and magazines (Westways, Edible San Diego). He writes a weekly column for Ramona Patch.com on wine and specialty produce. He and his wife, Peggy, co-own StorySeekers, a publisher of family history, memoir and autobiographical books. His special interests are history, politics and culture.

Slow Food...FAST

Free-range Grilled ChickenOrganic Salads

Carry Out

Phone 619-756-6911549 25th Street

San Diego CA 91902

Connelly Farms456 Telford LaneRamona, CA 92065

Farm stand hours: Tuesday 11am–5pm Saturday 9am “till done!”

Email: [email protected]

Offi ce: 760-789-3768

Offi ce hours: Monday–Saturday, 9am–5pm; closed Sunday.

Celebrating Sustainable FoodBuilding Healthy CommunitiesPromoting Food Justice

Slow Food is committed to preserving food traditions and reviving the table as a center of family and community.

Join Slow Food and make a real difference.Slow Food San Diego • slowfoodsandiego.netSlow Food Temecula Valley • temeculavalleyslowfood.orgSlow Food Urban San Diego • slowfoodurbansandiego.org

Photo by Michael Pawlenty/Chefs Press

URBAN FARMSTO PATIO GARDENS

Contact us for a garden consultation UrbanPlantations.com

619-563-5771

Specializing in design, installation and maintenance of edible landscaping.

Ask about our restaurant supported agriculture

solutions to reduce produce costs and grow revenue.This season give the gift of a

with a Garden Gift Certificateor enrollment in our new

Education Seriesstarting in January 2012

HealthyLife

Organic GardensHome Orchard Care

Garden CoachingPermaculture Solutions

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Go Edible this Holiday SeasonWin over coworkers and family members alike with a jar of caramel sauce from Praline Patisserie. Carefully made from scratch in San Diego, the playful and addictive caramel sauces include such festive flavors as lavender, smoked applewood, fleur de sel, and vanilla bean. We love that owner Cruz Caudillo uses no additives or preservatives, and oversees the process from start to finish. Find Praline Patisserie at the Mission Hills, Pacific Beach, Little Italy, and La Jolla Open Aire farmers markets. pralinepatisserie.com

Chances are you have a beer-lover on your list this year (don’t we all?). But are you really going to give them pint glasses again? Instead, help them add to their appreciation with the two celebratory craft beer books that debuted this year. San Diego’s Top Brewers: Inside America’s Craft Beer Capital (Chefs Press, October 2011) is a survey of nearly 20 area breweries, including Lost Abbey, Green Flash, and AleSmith. It is filled with rich photographs, brewer profiles, and recipes. The Craft of Stone Brewing Co.: Liquid Lore, Epic Recipes, and Unabashed Arrogance is the much-anticipated history of Stone Brewing Co., co-written by Greg Koch, Steve Wagner, and Randy Clemens. It is filled with tales of Stone’s growth and evolution, never-before shared homebrew recipes, and recipes from the Stone World Gardens and Bistro. Both books, we think, are quite enjoyable, especially if you get to savor them over a pint. Find them at sdtopbrewers.com and stonebrew.com/book/

Why give a friend wine and cheese when you can teach them to make wine and cheese? If you haven’t yet checked out Curds and Wine, the cheese- and wine-making store in Kearny Mesa, holiday shopping is the perfect excuse. They stock equipment and ingredients for the novice as well as the expert, with plenty of advice, books, and tutorials to help aspiring cheese- and wine-makers climb the ranks—they even allow you to make wine on-site. Whether your purchase is practical (basic cheese-making

equipment) or extravagent (a Hungarian oak wine barrel), your gift is sure to be memorable and enjoyed by all. curdsandwine.com

We’ve got just the thing for the well-intentioned but not-quite-confident aspiring chef on your list: a cooking class. Hipcooks, a new cooking school on 30th Street in North Park, takes a fresh, youthful approach to cooking lessons. Classes are taught without recipes, teaching basic techniques and encouraging students to learn to trust their intuition. Several classes are offered each week, and schedules and gift certificates are available online at sandiego.hipcooks.com. Cups Culinary, in La Jolla, also offers gift certificates for intimate, hands-on cooking classes. Classes range from beginner to experienced, and cover topics such as breadmaking, holiday cooking, cheesemaking, and baking. We’re especially excited that they offer a farm-to-table class, which features produce from a local farm and aims to help home cooks learn to make the most of a weekly CSA box or farmers market haul. At the end of each cooking class, participants enjoy a glass of wine, a meal, and a Q&A session with the chef who taught the class. cupslj.com


Go Edible this Holiday Season

I’ve always thought that one of the most decadent ingredients is exquisite olive oil, and in San Diego, we’re lucky to be just south of an amazing olive oil region. Temecula Olive Oil, which has a tasting room and shop in Old Town, offers a stunning range of extra virgin olive oils including roasted garlic oil, blood orange citrus oil, and Hatch chili oil, as well as balsamic vinegars, olives, and preserves. They offer gift certificates, gift boxes, and subscriptions to their quarterly olive oil club. temeculaoliveoil.com . Marian’s EVOO is certified 100% organic, pressed from Mission and Mananzillio olive varieties grown on the Temecula Valley Olive Ranch near Hemet, and milled and bottled by Bella Vado in Valley Center. They currently offer traditional olive oil and plan to debut a line of flavored oils soon. This top quality oil is available in limited quantities at the Little Italy Mercato,

from Sage Mountain Farm at the Hillcrest Farmers’ Market, Pasta at Large in Hemet, and Leonesse and Hart Wineries in the Temecula area.

If you’re wanting to give the gift of handmade, but don’t have the time to spend a weekend in the kitchen, head over to Sea Rocket Bistro in North Park to pick up a few of chef Chad White’s house-made goods. We’re enamored with his bacon jam, a brilliant combination of molasses, brown sugar, jalapeños, Medjool dates, and, of course, naturally raised California pork. If your gift recipient is a bit more daring, go with one of the most unique edible gifts around: sea urchin gelato, a one-of-a-kind blend of vanilla, cream, and local uni. Of course, you could also play it safe with White’s tomato jalapeño jam, a tangy, spicy, and sweet spread just begging to be served on a cheese plate. searocketbistro.com

Whether you’re hosting a holiday party or are looking for a festive-yet-conscientious gift, you should know about organic spirits purveyor Greenbar Collective. The company’s line of TRU vodka, TRU gin, IzÁ tequila, Crusoe rum, Fruit Lab fruit liqueurs, and Bar Keep bitters are not only certified organic, they are made with minimal packaging, post-consumer recycled labels, and are carbon negative—the company plants a tree for each bottle sold. But the company doesn’t commit to organic on principle alone—they firmly believe organic ingredients result in better-tasting spirits. Find them at Stumps Market in Point Loma and Whole Foods in Encinitas, or learn more at greenbar.biz

Finally, if you’re really indecisive about your holiday gifts, go with the tried-and-true: chocolate. We continue to be impressed with Chuao’s expanding line of chocolate products, which range from the traditional to the exquisite. Cheer up a friend with a care package of decadent Winter Hot Chocolate (a blend of dark chocolate, cinnamon, clove, nutmeg, and ginger) and Orangettes (caramelized orange peels dipped in dark chocolate), or woo that special someone with a ribbon-wrapped box of Firecracker chipotle caramel fudge truffles. Stop into one of the Chuao Chocolate Cafes in Encinitas, Del Mar, or University Town Center, or order online at chuaochocolatier.com

By Lauren Lastowka


EDUCATION

ART ACADEMY OF SAN DIEGOFeatures fine and digital arts classes and workshops taught by professional artists throughout the year. 3784 30th Street, San Diego • (619) 231-3900 artacademysandiego.com

FARMS AND FARMERS’ MARKETS

BRIAN’S FARMERS’ MARKETSBrian’s Farmers’ Markets Serving the Point Loma, Mission Valley, UTC, Golden Hill and Mission Hills areas. (619) 795-3363 • sdmarketmanager.com

DEL MAR FARMERS’ MARKETLocated in the Del Mar City Hall parking lot, this market is open from 1-4 p.m. on Saturdays year round. Vendors bring a wide variety of foods, including fine crafted cheese, fresh fish, honey, fruit, vegetables and flowers. 1050 Camino Del Mar • (760) 521-0643

HILLCREST FARMERS’ MARKETOpen every Sunday from 9-2 p.m. this market provides a wide array of vendors including locally grown, in season produce, gifts, arts, crafts and flowers. Included are a large variety of hot prepared food items with an emphasis on international cuisine. 3960 Normal Street • (619) 299-3330 • hillcrestfarmersmarket.com

MORNING SONG FARMCCOF Certified Organic Farm and CSA program produces a wide variety of subtropical fruit. (760) 874-8000 • morningsongfarm.com

NORTH SAN DIEGO FARMERS’ MARKETLocated at the Sikes Adobe Historic Farmstead, this market is open every Sunday from 10-4 p.m. Beautiful environment supporting local artisans and farmers. 12655 Sunset Drive, Escondido • northsdfarmersmarket.com

RANCHO SANTA FE FARMERS’ MARKETOur goal is to promote local and sustainable agriculture, contribute to the success of local growers and artisan food producers, and serve as a community gathering place every Sunday. ranchosantafefarmersmarket.com

RON LACHANCE FARMERS’ MARKETSServing Mira Mesa, Kearny Mesa and Leucadia farmers’ markets. Local farm fresh produce, flowers and specialty foods. (858) 272-7054

SANTEE MARKETSSantee Farmers’ Market takes place every Wednesday from 3-7 p.m. in an abandoned school parking lot. Fresh, sustainable produce, cheese, bread and more. 10445 Mission Gorge Road • (619) 449-8427

SD WEEKLY MARKETSFarmers and foodies meet here, We bring farms to the city and people to the table. Serving Little Italy, North Park and Pacific Beach. sdweeklymarkets.com

SUZIE’S FARM & SUNGROWNSan Diego based organic farm and CSA delivering USDA certified organic product to chefs 5 days a week. (619) 662-1780 • suziesfarm.com • (619) 921-8135 • sungrownorganics.com

TAJ FARMSA CSA/subscription farm, nestled in the rural foothills of Valley Center, with a dynamic team that is dedicated to sustainable and responsible agriculture practices, and creating safe and healthy food. (760) 670-7012 • TAJfarms.net

FOOD REVIEWS & DISCUSSIONS

LET THERE BE BITELTBB helps you make the best food choices at your local store and online from trusted vendors, and provides tips on becoming your own 4-star chef. lettherebebite.com

SAN DIEGO FOOD & WINEThis fun online resource provides food and wine information about San Diego. You’ll find reviews and ratings on restaurants, food and wine, food oriented schools and classes, kitchen devices, farmers’ markets and books. Great recipes too. (858) 525-2090 • sandiegofoodandwine.com

FOODIE DESTINATIONS

ALCHEMYAlchemy serves cultural fare, craft beer and cocktails. We prepare interesting food from high quality ingredients and local produce. 1503 30th Street, San Diego • (619) 255-7827 • alchemysandiego.com

BLIND LADY ALE HOUSEBlind Lady Ale House (BLAH) in Normal Heights offers a spectacular and “finely curated” lineup of local and craft brews, and is a Certified Purveyor of Honest Pints. Neopolitan style pizza topped with fresh made mozzarella, local veggies (mostly organic) and charcuterie house-made from sustainably produced meat. 3416 Adams Avenue, San Diego • (619) 255-2491 • blindlady.blogspot.com

BLUE RIBBON ARTISAN PIZZAWe support local farmers’ markets, local businesses, and sustainable practices. Featuring house-made dough, fennel sausage from sustainable Berkshire pork, hand-stretched fresh mozzarella, local and organic produce and local beer. Our pizzas are fired in a true wood burning oven. 897 South Coast Hwy 101, Encinitas • (760) 634-7671 • blueribbonpizzaria.com

BURGER LOUNGEBurger Lounge grew out of the idea that a hamburger should not only taste great, but also use healthy ingredients produced sustainably. We provide a simple menu that appeals to health conscious diners, vegetarians, salad lovers and diners simply “hankering for a great hamburger”. Locations in Kensington, Coronado, Little Italy, Hillcrest and Gaslamp. burgerlounge.com

E.A.T. MARKETPLACEWe are champions of the local artisan food movement, and believe by buying local and supporting our neighbors, we stimulate our region’s economy and create conviviality, loyalty & community. 27535 Jefferson Ave., Temecula • (951) 694-3663 • eatmarketplace.com

EL TAKE IT EASYCraft cocktails and locally sourced kitchen incorporating flavors of San Diego, Ensenada and Mexican wine country. 3926 30th Street, San Diego • (619) 291-1859 • eltakeiteasy.com

FARM HOUSE CAFERustic, country, French cuisine. A quality, affordable neighborhood eatery based on local fresh and seasonally appropriate produce, meat and cheese. They have a great selection of eclectic wines and serve up some genuinely sincere service. 2121 Adams Avenue, San Diego • (619) 269-9662 • farmhousecafesd.com

FISH 101Fish 101 is a modern interpretation of a traditional west coast fish house. Local and seasonal fish, shellfish and produce are highlighted here. All seafood is sourced in accordance with Monterey Bay Aquarium’s Seafood Watch Program. 1468 N. Coast Hwy 101, Encinitas • (760) 943-6221 • fish101restaurant.com

JSIXDowntown San Diego’s Culinary escape into the season’s best. Sourcing locally and using made-from-scratch methods, this sustainable restaurant embraces the slow-food approach and sets the standard for thoughtful and inspiring cuisine. 616 J Street, San Diego • (619) 531-8744 • jsixrestaurant.com

LOCAL HABITOur goal is to create a community in San Diego based around local organic produce, meats, and craft brewed beers. We will showcase hand crafted pizzas and sandwiches featuring the amazing produce from local organic farmers and award winning craft brews found right in San Diego’s backyard. 5th Avenue, San Diego • (619) 795-4770 • mylocalhabit.com

MISTRALMistral redefines French cuisine with an innovative dining experience. Blending influences from Europe’s Mediterranean coast, Chef Patrick Ponsaty marries responsibly grown ingredients with brilliant technique to create robust, intense flavors in every dish. 4000 Coronado Bay Road • dineatmistral.com

THE RED DOOR RESTAURANT AND WINE BARServing up home-grown comfort, our casually elegant eatery is a favorite neighborhood hangout. Using organic produce from our own 1/2 acre garden, local seafood and humanely raised meat, Chef Daniel Manrique produces re-imagined versions of familiar dishes. 741 W. Washington Street, San Diego • (619) 295-6000 • thereddoorsd.com

RED MARLINInnovative cuisine, exquisite locale, impeccable service, and sustainable sourcing make Red Marlin a perfect dining destination. Overlooking scenic Mission Bay Marina, our waterfront restaurant boasts

resources & AdvertisersWhen you visit, please thank these advertisers for

their support of Edible San Diego.You can find a complimentary copy of Edible San

Diego at any of our advertisers and at local farmers’ markets. Other distribution spots are listed on

ediblesandiego.com.

1503 30th Street in South Park619.255.0616

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Cultural Fare & Cocktailsserved nightly

Brunch on Weekends

Eat local. Drink local. Read local.San Diego’s Top Brewers: the official book of san diego craft beerEat local. Drink local. Read local.

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Your hometown food and wine resource with a global perspective.

REVIEWS

EVENTS

DEALS

RECIPES

DISCUSSIONS

PRODUCT RATINGS

sandiegofoodandwine.com

Behind every great seafood restaurant is a warehouse stocked with fresh fish

5040 Cas s Street, North Pacific Beach 858-272-9985 Wholesale: 858-272-9940

www.thefishery.com

Providing the finest quality wholesale seafood for over 30 years.Locally owned & committed to seafood sustainability

and environmental responsibility.

Pacific Shellfish

Car

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W

inery on Cedros

• Featuring California North Coast Reds, Russian River Chardonnay and Lake Country Sauvignon Blanc

• Newly expanded tasting room with wine lounge

• Low-sulfite wine in reusable bottles

• Organic wine from sustainably grown grapes

Tasting room open to public Mon.–Sat. 12pm to 9pm Sunday 12pm to 6pm Cellar Club Members taste for free.

320 South Cedros Ave. #400 Solana Beach 858-847-WINE (9463) carruthcellars.com

LOCAL MARKETPLACE


a fresh, sophisticated menu by Chef de Cuisine Danny Bannister. With a modern yet warm design created to complement the panoramic views, guests will delight in both beautiful scenes and beautiful food. 1441 Quivira Road San Diego • 619 2214868 • hyatt.com/gallery/redmarlin/site.html#

RITUAL TAVERNAff ordable neighborhood eatery, warm and pretty but unpretentious, serving humanely raised natural Niman meat, Jidori chicken and locally grown organic vegetables in delicious simple dishes. Taste the worldly fl avors of Britain, Germany and New Orleans. 4094 30th Street, San Diego • (619) 283-1720 • ritualtavern.com

SEA ROCKET BISTROServing sustainable local seafood, small farm organic produce, rancher direct pastured meat, San Diego craft beers, and California wines in a comfortable casual environment. Check our web site for special events and promotions. 3382 30th Street, San Diego • (619) 255-7049 • searocketbistro.com

STARLITEDinner. Cocktails. Late night dining. Off ering some of the fi nest ingredients found in Southern California. We emphasize hand made cuisine that uses the year round abundant produce available locally. Our menu changes frequently to accommodate seasonal products available in San Diego. 3175 India Street, San Diego • (619) 358-9766 • starlitesandiego.com


SUSHI ON A ROLLSushi on a Roll has been San Diego’s most sought after sushi caterer for 18 years. The fi rst of its kind and the only rentable sushi bar in San Diego, as well as the longest in business. Sushi on a Roll has set the trend for the “live” sushi experience. 1620 National Avenue, San Diego • (619) 702-1468 • sushionarollsd.com

THE FISHERYThe Fishery showcases a premier seafood market at the center of the restaurant. The menu is market driven and changes seasonally. Chef Arias demonstrates that the best tasting food is fresh, local and in season. Enjoy the excitement of fi sh straight out of the sea and local organically grown fruit and vegetables at our weekly “Tuesday Tastings”. 5040 Cass Street, San Diego • (858) 272-9985 • thefi shery.com

THE LINKERYHandmade sausages, ten taps of local craft beer, local wine, pastured meats and local produce, open every day and late every night. 3794 30th Street, San Diego • (619) 255-8778 • thelinkery.com

URBAN CHICKENThe taste of homemade, healthy and sustainable food. 549 25th Street, San Diego • (619) 756-6911 • urbanchickenusa.com

GARDEN RESOURCES

SAN DIEGO BOTANIC GARDENExplore 4 miles of garden trails, enjoy restful vistas, fl owering trees, majestic palms, and the nation’s largest bamboo collection. Plants from all over the world thrive here and our diverse topography provides a variety of micro climates from desert to tropical rainforest, all within 37 acres. 230 Quail Gardens Drive, Encinitas • (760) 436-3036 • SDBGarden.org

URBAN PLANTATIONSUrban farms to patio gardens. We’ll help you grow the foods that you like to eat. Over 25 years experience in farming and urban horticulture. Home orchard care, garden coaching, and permaculture solutions. We’ll teach you how to care for your garden organically, keeping your soil and plants healthy. 1010 University Ave. #1877, San Diego • (619) 563-5771 • urbanplantations.com

HEALTH & BEAUTY

LIVE INSPIRED TODAYClea Shannon, founder of Live Inspired, will be your guide, advocate, coach and trainer on your journey to inspired living. We provide you with daily choices that establish a sense of balance and quality of life through fi tness of mind, body and spirit. (619) 567-9642 • cleashannon.com

THRIVE WELLNESSLocated in Hillcrest, Thrive wellness provides education, fi tness training and lifestyle programs. We have acupuncturists, massage therapists, and other specialty doctors to help you reach your highest goals in health and nutrition. 4080 Centre Street, Suite 202, San Diego • (619) 795-4422 • thrivewellness.com

HOME & GARDEN LIVING

FIXTURESCreate an incredible kitchen, build a perfect bath, or discover new tips and techniques for better living. We are your ultimate source for kitchen, bath and outdoor living. 9340 Dowdy Drive, Suite 102, San Diego • (858) 966-3600 • fi xturesliving.com

FRENCH GARDEN SHOPPENatural home and garden furnishing store in Little Italy abundant with elegantly crafted, durable items. A wonderful array of indoor and outdoor furnishings, kitchenware, candles, linens, specialty foods and cards. 2307 India Street, San Diego • (619) 238-4700 • frenchgardenshoppe.com

PROGRESSProgress stocks conscientious products for the home and garden, sourced from small design studios, and is passionate about quality and accessible pricing. 2225 30th Street, San Diego • (619) 280-5501 • progresssouthpark.com

MEAT

GREEN BEEFSan Diego’s Premier grass fed beef CSA. The Kubitschek family has been raising grass fed beef since 1968, and now we have our Green Beef CSA to provide healthy, fresh and delicious beef to the local community. If you have never tasted grass fed Green Beef, you are missing out! Give our beef a try to fi nd out for yourself. (888) 524-1484 • eatgreenbeef.com

ORGANIZATIONS

SD COUNTY FARM BUREAUA nonprofi t association of farmers and ranchers. Advocates for local farmers since 1913. Membership helps your local farmers and has many benefi ts. (760) 745-3023 • sdfarmsbureau.org

SLOW FOODSlow Food has been supporting good food in San Diego and Riverside counties since 2001. Be a part of the growing national movement to reclaim and preserve good food and food traditions by participating on a local level. temeculavalleyslowfood.org, slowfoodsandiego.org, slowfoodurbansandiego.org

RESTAURANT SUPPLIES

SPECIALTY PRODUCELocal, organic and sustainably sourced produce from over a dozen farms each week. We promote freshly picked, organic produce that hasn’t travelled thousands of miles, nor has it been sitting on grocery shelves. 1929 Hancock Street #150, San Diego • (619) 295-3172 • specialtyproduce.com

SUNGROWNSungrown cultivates six categories of quality produce: micro-greens, micro-herbs, sprouts, micro-mixes, specialty greens and shoots, and edible blossoms. Also available through Suzie’s Farms. Call to order (800) 995-7776 • fax (619) 662-1779 • sungrownorganics.com

SEAFOOD

CATALINA OFFSHORE PRODUCTSWholesale seafood market open to the public, off ering fresh sushi grade fi sh, fresh local fi sh and shellfi sh. Featuring cooking samples on Saturdays. 5202 Lovelock Street, San Diego • (619) 297-9797 • catalinaop.com

PACIFIC SHELLFISHLocally owned and operated for over 30 years. Fish, shrimp and lobster are wild caught unless specifi ed otherwise. Seasonal and subject to availability. (858) 272-9940 • thefi shery.com/wholesale

SPECIALTY RETAILERS

CAXAONatural ingredients that have been meticulously chosen with an emphasis on their unique qualities and individual characteristics to create the perfect balance of ingredients on every piece. Our confections make a beautiful and delicious gift. 619-379-2447 • caxao.com

CURDS AND WINEYour source for home wine making and cheese making supplies. We have a large selection of wine kits and you can even make wine at the shop! We have a variety of cheese-making cultures and equipment and cheese-making demonstrations. 7194 Clairemont Mesa Blvd, San Diego • (858)384-6566 • curdsandwine.com

NORTH VALLEY FARMSProducer of award-winning, handcrafted farmstead goat cheese. North Valley Farms is a small family owned and operated farm, uses sustainable farming methods and ships from the farm to your front door. (530) 347-7151 • northvalleyfarms.com

SOLAR RAINSolar Rain believes you have a right to know what you’re drinking. Our water is harvested from the ocean off San Diego’s coast, vaporized and purifi ed locally, then sold throughout San Diego County. (760) 751-8867 • solarrainwatery.com

WINE & BEER

CARRUTH CELLARSCarruth Cellars is a boutique urban winery in the heart of the Cedros Design District with a tasting room open to the public fi ve days a week. 320 Cedros Avenue, #400, Solana Beach • (858) 847-9463 • carruthcellars.com

LIGHTNING BREWERYOur methods are scientifi c, but our goals are artistic: To enrich San Diego’s craft beer community with premium brews of unusual styles. All our beers are naturally carbonated for a smooth, creamy drinkability. Our unique fl avors are naturally produced by grain, hops, yeast, water and fermentation methods. No additives are used. 13200 Kirkham Way, Poway • (858) 513-8070 • lightningbrewery.com

TRIPLE B RANCHESTriple B Ranches is a family business dedicated to producing San Diego’s Finest wine grapes and premier estate wines made from those grapes. Grown, aged, and bottled entirely within San Diego County, the wines truly demonstrate the unique qualities of our region. (760) 749-1200 • triplebranches.com

VESPER VINEYARDSThe goal of Vesper Vineyards is to expose wine drinkers to the diverse micro climates San Diego has to off er in one winery. We not only support local grapes and wine, but all local agriculture and cuisine. (760) 749-1300 • vespervineyards.com

Publishers

CHEFS PRESS INC.Chefs Press Inc. is dedicated to the creation of beautiful, high-quality books that celebrate America’s best chefs, restaurants and culinary trends. (619) 276-8411 • chefspress.com

Radio

KSDS JAZZ 88.3 FMKSDS Jazz 88.3 is a nonprofi t 501c3 organization, a part of the San Diego City College Foundation. KSDS is a full-time mainstream/traditional Jazz radio station, licensed to the San Diego Community College District, broadcasting 24 hours a day from the campus of San Diego City College. jazz88.org


FarMers’ MarKetsMONDAY

Escondido—Welk Resort8860 Lawrence Welk Dr. off Old Hwy 3951 – sunset fall/winter3 – 7 pm spring/summer760-751-4193

TUESDAY

Coronado 1st St. & B Ave. , Ferry Landing2:30 – 6 pm760-741-3763

Escondido *Grand Ave. btw Juniper & Kalmia3:30 – 7 pm May to Sept2:30 – 6 pm Oct to Apr760-745-8877

Mira Mesa *Mira Mesa High School10510 Reagan Rd.3 – 7 pm (3 – 6 pm winter)858-272-7054

Otay Ranch—Chula Vista2015 Birch Rd. and Eastlake Blvd.4 – 8 pm (4 – 7 pm winter)619-279-0032

Pacifi c Beach Bayard & Garnet2 – 6:30 pm619-233-3901

Spring Valley *# CLOSED for winter3845 Spring Drive (Hwy 94 to Bancroft exit)3 –7 pm March to Sept3 –6 pm Oct to March619-449-8427

UCSD/La JollaUCSD Campus, Town Square at Gilman/Meyers10 am–2 pm (Sept. 30 to June)858-534-4248

WEDNESDAY

Carlsbad *Roosevelt St. btw Grand Ave. & Carlsbad Village Dr.1 – 5 pm 760-687-6453

North San Diego Opens Nov 30Sikes Adobe Farmstead12655 Sunset Dr. Escondido11 – 2 pm 858-735-5311

Ocean Beach4900 block of Newport Ave.4–7 pm (summer 4–8 pm)619-279-0032

San Marcos *#Cal State San Marcos333 S. Twin Oaks Valley Rd. 1 – sunset, (3 – 7 pm summer)760-751-4193

Santee *10445 Mission Gorge Rd.3 – 7 pm 619-449-8427

Temecula*40820 Winchester Rd. btw Macy’s & JC Penney9 am – 1 pm760-728-7343

Tu MercadoUniversity of San Diego Campus 5998 Alcalá Park, btw Marian Way & Morris Dr.11 am – 2 pm

THURSDAY

Chula VistaCenter St. off Third Ave.3 – 7 pm (3 – 6 pm fall/winter)619-422-1982

Horton Square San Diego CLOSED for winter225 Broadway & Broadway Circle11 am – 3 pm, March to November760-741-3763

Linda Vista *# 6900 Linda Vista Rd. Btw Comstock & Ulric2 – 7 pm year round760-751-4193

North ParkCVS Pharmacy 3151 University & 32nd St.3 – 7 pm year round619-233-3901

Oceanside Market & Faire *Pier View Way & Coast Hwy. 1019 am –1 pm619-440-5027

Oceanside SunsetTremont & Pier View Way5 – 9 pm (winter 4 – 8 pm)760-754-4512

SDSUCampanile Walkway btw Hepner Hall & Love Library10 am – 3 pm www.clube3.org

Seeds @ City Urban Farm StandSan Diego City College14th & C St. in Curran Plaza9:30 - 11:30 [email protected]

University Town Center Genesee Ave. at UTC Westfi eld Shopping Plaza3 – 7 pm619-795-3363

FRIDAY

Borrego SpringsChristmas Circle Comm. Park 7 am – noon, Nov 7–June 760-767-5555

Fallbrook 102 S. Main, at Alvarado 10 am – 2 pm760-390-9726

Imperial Beach *#Seacoast Dr. at Pier PlazaOct-Mar, 2 – 6 pm, Apr–Sept, 2 – 7:30 pm619-397-1917

Kearny MesaNorth Island Credit Union pkg lot5898 Copley10:30 am – 1:30 pm858-272-7054

La Mesa Village * Corner of Spring St. & University 2 – 6 pm NEW Hours!619-440-5027

Mission HillsFalcon St. btw West Washington & Ft. Stockton3 – 7 pm (3 – 6 pm winter)858-272-7054

Rancho BernardoBernardo Winery parking lot13330 Paseo del Verano Norte9 am – noon760-500-1709

Southeast San Diego *#4981 Market St. (west of Euclid Ave Trolley stop)2 – 6 pm619-262-2022

SATURDAY

Carlsbad *Roosevelt St. btw Grand Ave. & Carlsbad Village Dr.1 – 5 pm 760-687-6453

City Heights *!#On Wightman St. btw Fairmount & 43rd St.9 am – 1 pm760-751-4193

Del Mar1050 Camino Del Mar1 – 4 pm760-586-0373

Golden Hill B St. btw 27th & 28th Sts.9:30 am – 1:30 pm619-795-3363

Little Italy MercatoDate St. (Kettner to Union)9 am – 1:30 pm619-233-3769

Pacifi c Beach4150 Mission Blvd.8 am – noon760-741-3763

Poway *Old Poway Park14134 Midland Rd. at Temple8 – 11:30 am619-440-5027

Ramona *1855 Main St. (K-Mart pkg lot)9 am–1 pm760-788-1924

Scripps Ranch10380 Spring Canyon Rd. &Scripps Poway Parkway9 am – 1 pm858-586-7933

Temecula *Old Town TemeculaSixth & Front St.8 am – 12:30 pm760-728-7343

Vista *County Courthouse325 Melrose Dr. South of Hwy 788 am – noon760-945-7425

SUNDAY

Gaslamp San Diego400 block of Third Ave.9 am – 1 pm619-279-0032

Hillcrest DMV parking lot3960 Normal & Lincoln Sts.9 am – 2 pm619-237-1632

JulianWynola Farms Marketplace 4470 Hwy 78, 3 miles west of Julian11 am – 4 pm760-885-8364

La Jolla Open AireGirard Ave. & Genter, La Jolla Elem. School9 am – 1 pm858-454-1699

Leucadia *185 Union St. & Vulcan St.10 am – 2 pm858-272-7054

Mt. Carmel 9550 Carmel Mountain Road11 am – 3 pm619-449-8427

Murrieta *Village Walk PlazaI-15, exit west on Calif. Oaks/Kalmia9 am – 1 pm760-728-7343

North San Diego Sikes Adobe Farmstead12655 Sunset Dr. Escondido10 – 3 pm (11 – 4 pm summer)858-735-5311

Point Loma #Corner of Cañon & Rosecrans9:30 am – 2:30 pm 619-795-3363

Rancho Santa Fe Del Rayo Village16079 San Dieguito Rd.9 am – 1:30 pm ; 10 am – 2 pm fall/winter858-922-5135

Solana Beach410 to 444 South Cedros Ave. 1 – 5 pm858-755-0444

* Market vendors accept WIC (Women, Infants, Children Farmers’ Market checks)

# Market vendors accept EBT (Electronic Benefi t Transfer)

! Currently only City Heights accepts WIC Farmers’ Market Checks and the WIC Fruit and Vegetable Checks.

All San Diego County markets listed except SDSU and Seeds@City are certifi ed by the County Agricultural Commissioner. Please visit ediblesandiego.com and click on “Resources” for more complete information and links to farmers’ market websites.

Great music at Jazz 88.3 Fm Jazz88.orG

Voted Jazz station oF the Year bY maGazine

George Varga hosts

San Diego Sessions

Sundays 5–6 p.m.

Showcasing

the Sound of

San Diego Jazz

Jazz 88.3 is a broadcast service of the San Diego Community College District. Gilbert CaStellanoS photo by tom WeSterlin

edible san diego - winter 2011 issue

Documents

pm winter

san diegos local foods

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cuisine chef

rentable sushi bar

live sushi experience

perfect moment atwww

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