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Page 1: Essential oils presentation

Flavours, Fragrances & Essential Oils

Art, Agriculture,Science,

Industry & EntrepreneurshipPresentation by Murray Hunter

© Murray Hunter 2007

Page 2: Essential oils presentation

1. Introduction

2. Definitions

3. The Nature of the Industry

4. The Olfactory System and

Classification of Fragrances

5. Uses and Markets

6. Natural Product Chemistry

7. Extraction Theory and Practice

8. Aroma Chemicals

9. The Essential Oil Development

Process

10. Screening Process

11. Development Process

12. Problems in Developing New

Essential Oils

13. Regulatory Requirements

14. Flavour & Fragrance Operations

15. Organic Farming

16. Some Essential Oils Economics

17. Some Fine Fragrance Profiles

18. Formulary of Finished Products

19. The Trends of Fine Fragrance

20. Essential Oils in Thailand

21. Potential Research Projects

22. Potential Careers in the Industry

23. References

Page 3: Essential oils presentation

Some Generic Global Issues

Introduction

Page 4: Essential oils presentation

CO2 Emissions

Resource Depletion Global Warming

Changed Weather Patterns

Decline of Arable

Land

Temp. Increase

Sea Levels Rise

Decline of eco-system, biodiversity

and sustainability

Pests & Diseases

Droughts Floods

Food Crisis

Declining Productivity

Alternative Land Use

Rising Costs

Urbanisation

Unstable Production

Lack of finance for production

Population Growth

Production

Growing unemployment

Consumption Loss of

Confidence And

consumption

Bank Liquidity Global Warming, The Food and Economic Crisis

Page 5: Essential oils presentation

The Rural Crisis

Page 6: Essential oils presentation

Average age of farmers in Malaysia

Page 7: Essential oils presentation
Page 8: Essential oils presentation

Templating of Natural Aromatic Molecules

Page 9: Essential oils presentation

Templating of Natural Aromatic Molecules

Plants Animals Food Objects

Analysis Modeling

Synthesis

Product

Biotechnology

Organic

Odour plus Stability Threshold Efficient Value

synthesis Added Benefits

Applications

Perfumery Cosmetics

Stable in formulations Cost effective Efficacy (i.e., antimicrobial)

Botany/ethnobotany Bio-prospecting

Head-space Chromatography

Separation Extraction

Screening

Antimicrobial Anti-fungal Anti-tumor Anti-aging

Flavour & Fragrance

Botany Biochemistry Computational Chemistry

Page 10: Essential oils presentation

Sustainability

Page 11: Essential oils presentation

Production Processes

Farm size & layout

Organisation & methods

Propagation

Cultivation

Processing

Marketing

Climate

Weather Rainfall Wind

Sunshine UV radiation Temperature

Humidity

Conducive weather Or

Floods, droughts, etc

Physical Environment

Soil Topography Atmosphere

Natural flora & fauna habitat Urbanisation

Suitability of conditions Pollution (air, land & water)

Labour sources Water resources

(create hinterland where farm part of)

Human Habitisation

Knowledge Suppliers & contractors

Pollution Attitudes and concerns

Resource inputs, fertilizers, herbicides, insecticides, machinery, research capabilities

Positive Inputs Water

Sunshine Nitrogen

Agricultural inputs Fertilizers etc Knowledge

Labour

Negative Inputs

Adverse physical conditions

Pests & diseases Pollution

Heavy metals

Business Environment

Markets Finance

Trade environment

Customers Financing &

various kinds of capital

Competition Low prices

Changing demand patterns

Government Infrastructure Regulation

Taxes & subsidies

Trade environment

Research

Negative Outputs

Runoffs, wastes, carbon

Some recycling back to system

Positive Outputs

Products

Revenue flow back to system

An Agricultural Enterprise as a System

Page 12: Essential oils presentation

Wind drift

Farm/Plantation

Soil Floor

Sub-Soil

Fertilisers, herbicides, insecticides

Leaf & organic decompositions

Sub-terrainium water

Sun

Climate & Weather

Cultivation

Propagation

Processing

EconomicProducts

Runoffs Surface water

Wastes Chemical residuals

Some wastes

recycled

Watershed runoffs onto farm/plantation

Atmosphere

Nitrogen, gasses, etc

Lakes Rivers Canals Oceans

Daylight hours UV radiation Temperature Humidity Rainfall

Conducive weather, or floods, droughts, etc

Regional Eco-System A Farm/Plantation as a System

Other Farms

Insects and pests

Genetic Biodiversity

Page 13: Essential oils presentation

Soil Surface

Rainfall (Moisture Source)

Organic Materials Phosphorous (P)

Sulfur (S)

Nitrogen (N)

Nitrogen fixing bacteria In root system

Water (H2O)

Mineral Based Materials (Amphibole & Feldspar)

Calcium (Ca)

Potassium (K)

Magnesium (Mg)

Iron (Fe)

Carbon (C) Oxygen (O2) Hydrogen (H) Through

air in pores

Page 14: Essential oils presentation

Research

Page 15: Essential oils presentation

Idea from Research Institute, University faculty or individual within them

Undertake study with objectives interesting to researchers

Primarily single

discipline approach

Objectives based on discipline thinking

Project results and

conclusion

Publish

Paper at Conference

Add to CV

Little commercial interest:Private sector unaware

No or limited economic study or little consideration to scale up potential

NB: to bioprocess engineer has this as a fundamental consideration (difference between

scientist and engineer)

Typical Research Model

Page 16: Essential oils presentation

Desirable Research Model

Page 17: Essential oils presentation

Planning Phase

R&D Phase

Commercial Phase Start-up Growth Maturity

Information seeking and

Planning orientation

Seeking of information,

looking for ideas, screening for opportunities,

setting of a vision and planning out

the project

Test hypothesis, review market, confirm viability,

develop applications, increase knowledge, learn how to operate commercial operation.

Collaborate with customer & R&D

Institutions

Research and collaborative orientation

Begin with an entrepreneurial

management style, then move to marketing orientated style and eventually corporate management style

Start-up Develop

company, production and early customer base, usually

very personal & hands on.

Growth Develop value-added products, new market, customers, expand production, move to more formal

management

Maturity Corporate orientation

with well defined depts. Formalised

marketing & production roles in organization, take strategic outlook

for business.

Page 18: Essential oils presentation

RM 4,200,000

Page 19: Essential oils presentation

RM 200,000

Page 20: Essential oils presentation

Specific Issues & Challenges To Malaysia

Page 21: Essential oils presentation

Biodiversity

Page 22: Essential oils presentation

Low Crop Diversity in Malaysia

Page 23: Essential oils presentation

Limited number of students interested in natural product

chemistry & agro-entrepreneurship

Very few world class professors

Page 24: Essential oils presentation

What are essential oils?

Page 25: Essential oils presentation

Essential OilA volatile oil obtained from a wide variety of plant, scrub, and tree species and from various parts of the plant anatomy, such as the roots, rhizomes, wood bark, leaves, stems, fruit, flowers and seeds. Usually extracted by hydro or steam distillation, expression or effleurage - Hunter 1996

Page 26: Essential oils presentation

Concretes and Absolutes

Volatiles and waxes extracted from plant material with hydrocarbon solvents

(usually benzene and hexane) through washing and removal of the volatile solvent with distillation. A waxy aromatic substance

remaining is called a concrete. The concrete is

washed with alcohol to remove the volatile materials

and ethanol removed through vacuum distillation

to leave an absolute.

Page 27: Essential oils presentation

Plant Material

Expressed

Oil

Cold expression of citrus fruits

Terpeneless Oil Terpene Tails

Essential

Oil

Water, water & steam and steam

Distillation

Absolute

Concrete

Solvent Extraction

Washing with ethanol and vacuum distilling

ethanol away

Pomade

Enfleurage

Vacuum distill away the ethanol

Oleoresin

CO2

Extract

CO2 Extraction

The Natural Aromatic Product Family

Page 28: Essential oils presentation

Raw Herbs

FreshConsumptionDried Fermented

Extracts

Medicinal Powders

MedicinalBeverages

Essential Oils & Other Volatiles

Flavour &Fragrance

Personal Care& Cosmetics

Standardised Extracts

Phytopharmaceutical Products

Fractions & Isolates

Bioactive Compounds

Prescription & OTC Drugs

Figure 1: The Family Tree of Herb Derivatives

Agricultural Application

Traditional Herbal Medicines

Aromatherapy

Enzymes

Page 29: Essential oils presentation

The Biotechnology Pyramid

Genomics

Fermentation

Micro-propagation

Mutagenesis

Thermodynamic Processes

Green Biotechnology Reframed

Disciplines

White Biotechnology

Red Biotechnology

Micro-organisms

Page 30: Essential oils presentation

The Nature of the Industry

Page 31: Essential oils presentation

Hunter 1996

Page 32: Essential oils presentation

Trader

Manufacturers

Wholesalers

Retailers

Consumers

Usually bulk oils to traders who do all distribution. Lowest price and little

control over market, but wide distribution

With differentiated product some flexibility

to sell to manufacturers, costs higher but increased

margin maybe compensate.

This part of supply chain for smaller packs and end products. Can be local, national or international. Value added method like

branding in use.

Usually branded item small packs, end product. Either selective (region or retailer

type), or general distribution. High value, low

volume with added distribution costs.

Usually direct to consumers through

internet and/or direct marketing organisation. Usually specialised end products with high profit

Need high volume due to

low margin unless

specialised product

Need differentiated product. Above average returns, higher marketing

costs

Need branded specialised

product, high margins volume

depends on coverage

Business focus

towards consumer marketing away from agricultural

production

Supply Chain/Product Focus

Bi-products to Other

Supply Chains

Essential Oil Producer

Page 33: Essential oils presentation

Characteristics of the Flavour & Fragrance Industry

The flavour and fragrance ingredients trade has its own culture and business strategies, which can be summarised as follows:

a) Flavour and fragrance ingredients are subject to derived demand, where demand originates from final flavoured and fragranced end product demand,

b) Demand for flavour and fragrance ingredients is relatively inelastic in the short term,

c) Flavour and fragrance ingredients are subject to fluctuating and cyclic demand,

d) Purchasing and use of flavour and fragrance ingredients is based on artistic and technical complexity, and

e) The world market is geographically concentrated.

Unger (1987)

Page 34: Essential oils presentation

World Geographical Distribution of Flavour & Fragrance Compound Sales

28%

14%11%10%

37% USA

Europe

Japan

Asia

Other

Page 35: Essential oils presentation

Cosmetics, USD 90 M, 6%

Agrochemicals, USD 150 M, 10%

Intermediates, USD 120 M, 8%

Pharmaceuticals, USD 220 M 15%

AromatherapyUSD 250 M 17%

Flavour & Fragrance, USD

650 M, 44%

The Size of the Essential Oil Market

Page 36: Essential oils presentation

The market size for Natural Raw Material for the Flavor and Fragrance Market is USD650 M

Essential Oil Production

USD 650 million

Fragrance & Flavour Production

USD 20 Billion

Page 37: Essential oils presentation

Ratio of Natural to Synthetic Materials Used in the Flavour & Fragrance Industry

Essential Oils & Natural Aromatic

Materials13%

Synthetic Raw Materials

87%

Page 38: Essential oils presentation

Growth of Flavour & Fragance Industry

0

5

10

15

20

2002 2003 2004

USD

Bill

ion

$

Page 39: Essential oils presentation

60%

40%

0%

50%

100%

Fragrance

Flavors

Flavor/Fragrance Split 2002

Page 40: Essential oils presentation

326

252

196

192

80

7254

5030

800

650

Various Food Products Processed MeatBeverages Dairy ProductsAnimal Feed Processed Food & VegetablesFlour & Starch Products Oils and FatsFish Products CosmeticsHousehold Products

World Wide Market Size Estimate 2003

(USD Billion)

Page 41: Essential oils presentation

Essential Oil Production

Trading

Flavour & Fragrance

Compounding End Product Manufacture Wholesaler Retailer

Consumer

1.0 1.6 2-3.0 (6-9) 2-2.5 (18-24)

Relative and (Absolute) Value Added Through Chain

1.1-1.2 (19.8-28.8)

1.2-1.4 (23.76-40.32)

The Essential Oil Value Chain (Flavour & Fragrance Industry)

Page 42: Essential oils presentation

The World Essential Oil Map

Page 43: Essential oils presentation

Indonesia• USD 85 Million

Cajuput

Cananga

Cassia

Citronella

Clove

Clove Leaf

Ginger

Gurjun Balsam

Nutmeg

Palmarosa

Patchouli

Sandalwood

Vetiver

Vanilla

Massoia

Malaysia

Tea Tree 200Ha

Pepper Oil

Nutmeg Oil

Lime Oil

Lemongrass

Tangerine

Ginger

Tuberose

Tumeric

Vetivert

Grapefruit

Sweet Basil

Clove

Citronella

Galabga

Jasmine

Kaffir Lime

Champaka

Plai Oil

Coffee Bean Extract

Rose Absolute

Laos

Benzoin Resin

(100 Tonnes)

Sassafras Oil

Agarwood

Cambodia

Cajuput Oil

(100 Tonnes)

Sassafras Oil

(1-200 Tonnes)

Lemongrass

Tea Tree Oil

VietnamOld Established

IndustryCornmint Oil

Basil

(40 Tonnes)

Citronella

(2-500 Tonnes)

Cajuput Oil

(150 Tonnes)

Sassafras Oil

Star Anise

Litsea Cubeba

Cassia

Patchouli

Palmarosa

Tea Tree

Eucalyptus Citriodora

Ginger

Agarwood

Page 44: Essential oils presentation

Top Twenty Essential Oils Produced in the WorldEssential Oil Botanical Name Volume

(Tonnes) Under Threat Cosmetics

Under Threat Biocides

Under threat Fragrance

Orange Citrus sinensis 26000 X X

Cornmint Mentha Arvensis 4300

Eucalyptus Euc. globulus 3728 X X X

Citronella Cym winterianus 2830 X X X

Peppermint Mentha piperita 2367

Lemon Citrus limon 2158 X X

Euc. Citriodora Eucalyptus citriodora 2092 X X X

Clove Leaf Syzygium aromaticum 1915 X X X

Cedarwood (US) Juniperus virginiana 1640

Litsea cubeba Litsea cubeba 1005 X X

Sassafras (Brazil) Ocotea pretiosa 1000 X X

Lime Citrus aurantifolia 973 X X

Spearmint Mentha spicata 851

Cedarwood (China) Chamaecyparis funebris 800

Lavandin Lavandula intermedia 768 X X

Sassafras (China) Cinnamomum micranthum 750 X X

Camphor Cinnamomum camphora 725

Coriander Coriandrum sativum 710

Grapefruit Citrus paradisi 694 X X

Patchouli Pogostemom cablin 563 X X

Page 45: Essential oils presentation

Potential Models of Essential Oil Production

• Wild Collection

• Co-operative or Contract growing (community organisation)

• Small Scale Plantation (boutique/niche/agro tourism /vertical integration – manufacture consumer products)

• Large Scale Plantation (competitive cost advantage required to enter market)

• Production of Essential Oil as a Bi-product (focus on other industry, timber, etc)

Page 46: Essential oils presentation

Wild Collection & Distillation

Tea TreeAustralia

Page 47: Essential oils presentation

Small Holder (Patchouli Indonesia)

Page 48: Essential oils presentation

Cambodia (Lemongrass, Cajuput)

Page 49: Essential oils presentation

Medium Size Plantation

Page 50: Essential oils presentation

Bridgestow Tasmania

Page 51: Essential oils presentation

Large Scale Production

Page 52: Essential oils presentation

Large Scale Plantation Tea Tree

Page 53: Essential oils presentation
Page 54: Essential oils presentation

Bi-Product (Citrus Fruits)

Page 55: Essential oils presentation

Aromatic Products from Citrus Fruits

Harvested Oranges Extractor Cold Press

Process

Press Liquor & di-limonene

Vacuum Distillation

Technical Grade di-limonene

Peel Heat Evaporator

Molasses

Ferment to Alcohol

Cattle Feed

Orange Juice Centrifuge

Cold Pressed Orange

Oil

Distillation

Terpeneless Folded Oil Food Grade

di-limonene

Page 56: Essential oils presentation

Tasmanian Industry Model

Page 57: Essential oils presentation

Sri Lanka Cinnamon Oils

Page 58: Essential oils presentation

Business Positioning – The Value Chain

USD 1.2 Billion Industry – poor man’s industry

Through Product Development

Through Seeing Production as a Means to Another Business

Agro tourism FMCG Various Products Ind. Products

Page 59: Essential oils presentation

The Issues

Page 60: Essential oils presentation

Market Turbulence

Page 61: Essential oils presentation

Pric

e

Pric

e

Quantity Quantity

Demand Demand

Current Supply

Current Supply

Forecast Supply (FS)

Actual Future Supply (AFS)

Forecast Supply (FS)

Actual Future Supply (AFS)

P1

P3

P2

Aggregate Decrease in Production

P1

P2

P3

b) Upward Trend in Pricing Leading to Greater Supply

a) Downward Trend in Pricing Leading to Decreased Supply

A forecast is accepted that supply will decrease in the coming year and traders buy up stocks leading to higher prices (P2). Producers see good returns and increase production leading to a glut of

supply, thus decreasing prices (P3). This fluctuation is on a time lag depending

upon the time frame from extra planting to harvests.

Aggregate Increase in Production

A forecast is accepted that supply will increase in the coming year and traders

don’t buy up stocks leading to lower prices (P2). Producers see poor returns and

switch to alternative crops, leading to a shortage of supply, thus increasing prices

(P3). This fluctuation is on a time lag depending upon the time frame from extra

planting to harvests.

Page 62: Essential oils presentation

Wild Collection and Threatened Plant Species

Page 63: Essential oils presentation
Page 64: Essential oils presentation

Bargaining Power of Producers

Bargaining Power of Producers

Page 65: Essential oils presentation

?

The Olfactory System & Odour Classification

Page 66: Essential oils presentation

The Human Olfactory System

Odour molecules pass through the olfactory organ

Page 67: Essential oils presentation

15-25%

30-40%

45-55%

Top Notes

Middle Notes

Base Notes

The Structure of a Fragrance

Bergamot oil, Rosewood oil (linalool), Linalyl acetate, Neroli oil, Ciste Oil

Rose Oil 5%, Jasmin absolute 4%, Ylang Ylang Oil, Aldehyde C11, C12, Methyl ionone 8%, hydroxycitronellal 10%, Cinamic Alcohol, Styrax. Phenol ethyl alcohol, Phenylacetaldehyde

Vetiveryl acetate, Sandalwood, Isoeugenol, Vanillin 1.5%, Coumarin 15%, Nitromusks 10%

“First Impression” in Perfume. High Volatile Citrus, Fresh, Green notes…..

“ Heart of fragrance”. Intermediate VolaleFloral, Aldehydic notes…..

Basic of fragrance”.(Bottom) Low VolatileWoody, Powdery, Musky …..

Page 68: Essential oils presentation

Classification of Odours

Spicy

Medicated

Aldehydic

Marine

Coniferous

Minty

Green

Herb -aceous

Fruity

Balsamic

Animalic

Woody

Floral

Agrestic

Curtis & Williams (1994)

Page 69: Essential oils presentation

Floral Family Broom Sweet, Floral, Herbaecious Carnation Delicate, Floral, CloveCassie Floral, Orange flower, VioletClover Sweet, Honey, Herbaecious, FloralCyclamen Floral, Lily, Lilac, Violet, greenGardenia Floral, Tuberose, Jasmin, Orange flowr, GreenHawthorn Floral, Bitter almond, Bitter, DiffusiveHeliotrope Floral, Almond, Balsamic, FruityHoneysuckle Swet, Floral, Heavy, Orange Flower, Tuberose,

Honey, RoseHyacinth Fresh, Green, Floral, Jasmin, BalsamicJ asmin Sweet, Floral, Heavy, Fruity, HerbaeciousJ onquil Fresh, Floral, Sweet, Heavy, Honey, GreenLilac Fresh, Meadow-Floral, Jasmin, GreenLily Sweet, Heavy, FloralLily of the Valley Floral, Rose, Green, Slightly citrusLime Blossom Floral, Fresh, Lily, Lilac, Orange FlowerMagnolia Floral, Lily, Ylang YlangMimosa Sweet, Floral, Hawthorn, Orange flower, GreenNarcissus Delicate, Fresh, Green, Floral, SweetOrange Flower Floral, Heavy, Animalic, Fresh, Rich, BitterOrris Delicate, Dry, Woody, Somewhat VioletReseda Floral, Green, Anisic, HerbaceousRose Sweet, Floral, Honey, Waxy, Slightly spicy,

FruitySweet Pea Sweet, Delicte, Floral, Orange Flower, Hyacinth,

LilyTuberose Heavy, Floral, Orange Flower, Ylang Ylang,

Caramel, GreenViolet Floral, Powdery, GreenWallflower Floral, somewhat liliacy, bitter almondYlang Ylang Rich, Sweet, Medicated, Floral, Fruity, Clove

Floral Family Descriptions

Page 70: Essential oils presentation

Woody Family Cedarwood Woody and slightly earthy, with smoky notesHibawood Like cedarwood, but more intensely woody,

Dry, PungentRosewood Woody, Floral, Sweet, Spicy, Delicately FattySandalwood Soft, Sweet, Woody, Slightly Balsamic

Woody Family Descriptions

Animalic Family Amine Fishy notes, AmmoniaCastoreum Warm, Phenolic, Sweet, Somewhat herbaceous,

clean smellingCatty Feline odourCivet Warm, Slightly faecal, MuskyEquine Horse likeFaecal Indolic, skatolicIndolic Lilac, Heavy, Animalic, NaphthalenicMusky Blackberry likeLeather Phenolic, Cresylic, Animalic, Castoreum,

Balsamic

Animalic Family Descriptions

Page 71: Essential oils presentation

Balsamic Family Cistus Rich, Balsamic, Ambergris, HerbaceousLabdanum Rich, Balsamic, AmbergrisMyrrh Rich, Warm, Balsamic, SpicyOpopanax Warm, Vegetable note, Rich, Balsamic, SpicyPeru Balsam Sweet, Balsamic, Rich, Soft, Vanilla,

Cinnamate, BenzoateStyrax Sweet, Balsamic, CinnamateTolu Balsam Sweet, Balsamic, Cinnamate, VanillaVanilla Soft, Sweet, Powdery, Balsamic

Balsamic Family Descriptions

Herbaceous Family Lavender Fruity, Floral, Herbaceous, Woody, BalsamicRosemary Herbaceous, Resinous, Woody, BalsamicSage Herbaceous, Slightly camphoraceous

Herbaceous Family Descriptions

Agrestic Family Earthy Fresh, Woody, VegetableForest Moist, Fresh, Vegatable, WoodyFungal Mushroom likeGalbanum Sharp, Agrestic, Green, Earthy, ConiferousHay Sweet, Warm, Agrestic, Herbaceous

Agrestic Family Descriptions

Page 72: Essential oils presentation

Green Family Cress Hyacinth like, GreenCucumber Green like sliced green vegetable pods

Fresh and CleanGrassy Fresh, Green, FruityLeafy Light, Green

Green Family Descriptions

Minty Family Peppermint Fresh, Cool, Mentholitic, Minty, Slightly GreenSpearmint Sweet, Warm, Minty, Herbaceous, GreenMossy Notes Forest, Woody, Phenolic, Green, Somewhat

marine

Minty Family Descriptions

Coniferous Family Description

Coniferous Family Pine Resinous, Balsamic, TerpeniticResinous Forest, Woody, Terpenite, Balsamic

Page 73: Essential oils presentation

Marine Family Ambergris Marine, Seaweed, Mossy, DryBeachOzonic Fresh, Marine, Slightly SweetSeaweed Marine, Mossy, Amine

Marine Family Descriptions

Aldehydic Family Fatty, Waxy (pleasant in dilution)

Aldehydic Family Descriptions

Medicated Family Camphorous CamphorCineolic Eucalyptus, Cresylic Cresolic, PhenolicEthereol alcoholicMentholic MentholPhenolic PhenolTerpenic monoterpenesThymolic ThymolWintergreen Methyl salicylate

Medicated Family Descriptions

Page 74: Essential oils presentation

Fruity Family Bergamot Fresh, Lemon, Sweet Orange, Herbaceous,(Citrus Sub-Class) Pepper, Floral

GrapfruitLemonLimeMandarinOrange SweetOrange BitterPithy Orange PeelTangerine

Fruity Family AppleApricotBananaBlackberryBlackcurrentPearPeachPineapplePruneRasberryStrawberryVinous Cognac likeWatermellon

Fruity Family Descriptions

Sub-Class (Citrus)

Page 75: Essential oils presentation

Spicy Family CeleryCinnamomCloveCorianderCuminFenugreekGingerNutmegPepper

Spicy Family Description

Miscellanious Bitter AlmondNotes Anisic

BenzoateBurntCaramelCinnamateCoconutFattyGeraniumHoneyMetallicNaphthenicNondescriptOilyPatchouliSalicylateSmokySulphorousTobaccoWaxy

Miscellaneous Notes

Page 76: Essential oils presentation

Light HeavySweet DryFresh StaleWarm CoolSoft Hard

Smooth HarshRich Thin

Delicate Coarse

Odour Characteristics

BitterDifussivePowderyPungentSharp

Tropical

Additional Characteristics

Page 77: Essential oils presentation

Spicy

Medicated

Aldehydic

Marine

Coniferous

Minty Green

Herb aceous

Fruity

Balsamic

Animalic

Woody

Floral

Agrestic

Fragrance Description Workshop

Page 78: Essential oils presentation

Fragrance Description Worksheet Light Heavy Sweet Dry Fresh Stale Cool Warm Soft Hard Smooth Harsh Thin Rich Coarse Delicate

Page 79: Essential oils presentation

0 Bitter 10 0 Diffusive 10 0 Powdery 10 0 Pungent 10 0 Sharp 10 0 Tropical 10

Page 80: Essential oils presentation

GC-MS

Performance Test

A Fragrance Development Lab

A trained human more accurate than a GC-MS

Page 81: Essential oils presentation

Sample of a Flavour Chart

Page 82: Essential oils presentation

Uses and markets

Page 83: Essential oils presentation

Processed Food

Page 84: Essential oils presentation

Beverages

Page 85: Essential oils presentation

Fine Fragrance

Page 86: Essential oils presentation

Aromatherapy

Page 87: Essential oils presentation

Cosmetics & Personal Care

Page 89: Essential oils presentation

Solvents

Page 90: Essential oils presentation

Pharmaceuticals

Page 92: Essential oils presentation

Organic Agro-Chemicals

Page 93: Essential oils presentation

Natural Product Chemistry

Page 94: Essential oils presentation

A Green Factory

UV Input

Enzymes

Page 95: Essential oils presentation

Oxygen

Carbon Dioxide

Water

Glycolysis

Glycose

Nitrates & Mineral Salts

Isoprenoids (terpenoids)

6-Deoxyxylulose

Polysacccharidess

Disaccharides

Phosphoenol pyruate

Pyruvate

KREBS CYCLE

Acetyl-CoA

Mevalonic Acid

Malonyl-CoA

Complex Isoprenoids (terpenoids)

Aliphatic Amino Acids

Polyketides

Complex Alkaloids

Alkaloids

Pentose Phosphate Pathway

Erythrose 4-phosphate

Shikimate Pathway

Aromatic Amino Acids

Phenylpropanoids

Hydroxy- Benzoic Acid

Flavonoids

Complex Flavonoids

Secondary Metabolites

Primary Metabolites

Primary Metabolites

Page 96: Essential oils presentation

Volatiles from an attacked

plant

Parasitoids Predators

Plant Insect

Gene Activation Signal

Indirect Responses

Direct Responses

Volatiles

Leaf shape Plant architecture

Secondary metabolites

Volatiles

Physical Barriers Secondary metabolites and proteins Nutritional hurdle Inhibitors Increased activity Heterogeneous set High specificity bifunctionality High complexity

Wound Insect

Elicitors

SIGN

AL

Gene A

ctivation

Herbivory

Avoidance New metabolites Temporal/ spatial avoidance Sequestration of the poisons Utilization of alternative hosts Increase the consumption rate Modify the nutritive quality of the host plant tissue Establish associations with microorganisms Improved digestive enzymes High activity Modified spectrum Low sensitivity to PIs Proteinases to destroy PIs

Page 97: Essential oils presentation

Acetyl CoA

3-methylglutaryl CoA (HMG-CoA)

Mevalonate

Isoprenyldiphosphate (IPP) and Dimethyllallyldiphosphate (DMAPP)

Geranyl pyrophosphate (GPP)

Geranyl geranyl pyrophosphate

(GGPP)

Other Terpenes (Triterpenes & Tetraterpenes)

C30+ (6 Isoprene Units +)

Monoterpenes

Glyceraldehyde phosphate

Pyruvate

Mevalonate Pathway

Deoxyxylulose Phosphate Pathway

Farnesylpyrophosphate (FPP)

Sesquiterpenes

C5 (1 Isoprene Unit)

C10 (2 Isoprene Units)

C15 (3 Isoprene Units)

Diterpenes & Carotenoids

C20 (4 Isoprene Units)

Ionones (from degraded carotenoids)

Page 98: Essential oils presentation

Terpenes• Unsaturated hydrocarbons

•Found mostly in plants

•Usually monoterpenes and sesquiterpenes used in flavours and fragrances

•Generally weak odours not fully represented from the essential oils they come from

•Sometimes poorly soluble in weak ethanolic solutions

•Primarily used as extenders

•Can oxidate or polymerise easily changing odour and lessening volatility

Cis-3,7-Dimethylocta-2,6-1-ol

Colourless to pale liquid

Stable

Application: Magnolia, Neroli, Jasmin, Lilac and other floral perfumes

Origin: Rose, Neroli, Petitgrain, Lavender, Lemongrass, Palmarosa and citrus oils

Page 99: Essential oils presentation

Geraniol

Trans-3,7-Dimethylocta-2,6-dien-ol

Colourless liquid

Stable

Applications: Floral and most other perfumes

Origin: Rose, Citronella, Geranium and Palmarosa

Linalool

3,7-Dimethylocta-1,6-dien-3-ol

Colourless Liquid

Stable

Applications: Almost universal application in fragrances, especially floral

Origin: Rose, rosewood, Lavender, minor constituent of others

Page 100: Essential oils presentation

Biosynthesis and isomerization-cyclization of geranyl pyrophosphate

Page 101: Essential oils presentation

The biosynthesis and isomerisation process is undertaken by enzyme from the oil glands of plants in nonoterpene producing species

Page 102: Essential oils presentation

Esters

Transacylase (coenzyme)

Dihydrofolate Reductase (coenzyme)

Dihydrofolate Reductase (coenzyme)

Aldehydes & Ketones

Alcohols Acids (carboxlic)

& Acyl CoA

Page 103: Essential oils presentation

Alcohols•Hydroxy compunds consisting of hydrocarbon chains

•Primary, secondary and tertiary alcohols (i.e., no. carbon atoms), also aliphatic alcohols

•Terpenoid alcohols very important chemicals found in many plants

•Polyhydric alcohols (2 or more hydroxy groups) odourless, but solvents

•Acyclic alcohols faint odours (close to phenols)

Phenylethyl Alcohol

2-PhenylethanolColourless liquidStableSweet rosy like odourApplications: widely used in synthetic formFrom floral to aldehydic, chypre and fougereFragrancesOrigins: Rose, Neroli, Geranium and Ylang Ylang

Page 104: Essential oils presentation

Octenol

OH

Oct-1-en-3-ol

Colourless liquid

Stable

Strong, fatty, orange like, balsamic

Applications: In the reconstruction of lavender and lavindin oils

Origin: in some mushrooms and savory oil

Citronellol

3,7-Dimethyloct-6-en-1-ol

Colourless liquid

Stable

Applications: used extensively in florals

Origin: Rose, citronella oils

Page 105: Essential oils presentation

Islam & Alcohol

Ethanol (alcohol) is a ‘spirit’ odour substance

It is a different chemical composition to alcohols used in flavour & fragrance

Dodecan-1-ol

Benzyl Alcohol

Spirit alcohol forbidden in Islam for consumption

(An-Nahl 16:67), but allowed in

medicine.Many Islamic scholars allow it for use

on the skin.

Page 106: Essential oils presentation

Amines

•Compound with one or more hydrogen atoms of ammonia, replaced with hydrogen radical

•3 types, primary, secondary and tertiary

•Most foul smelling “animalic”

Methyl Anthranilate

(Methyl 2-aminobenzoate)

Colourless liquid

Discolouration

From many flowers such as orange and ylang ylang

Page 107: Essential oils presentation

The Esters

• Derived from alcohols in reverseable reactions

• Fruity notes

•Not very pH stable

Colourless liquid

Stable

Applications: Versitile in many fragrances, especially jasmin and gardenia

Origin: Jasmin, Tuberose, neroli, Ylang Ylang

Benzyl Acetate

Page 108: Essential oils presentation

The Aldehydes• Fatty aldehydes have pungent odours

•Aliphatices used in perfumery and flavours mainly from synthetic sources

•Usually used in very diluted forms

•Aldehydes are very reactive (oxidisation, polymerisation and acetal formations)

Benzaldehyde

Colourless liquid

Can oxidize to benzoic acid

Applications: In traceable amounts in sweet florals

Origin: Bitter almond oil, cassia

Page 109: Essential oils presentation

Lactones

• Naturally ocuring in many fruits

•Most often hydroxy group of alcohols which reacte with carboxylic acids

•Contain ester functional group in the cyclic part of the molecule

•Important fruit flavours & fragrances

Y-butyrolactone & a-caprolactone

Page 110: Essential oils presentation

Carboxylic Acids

• Organic acids with a carbonyl and hydroxy group

•Usually derived from aliphatic alcohols or aliphatic aldehydes through oxidisation

•Odours usually resemble precursers

Colourless crystaline solid

Slightly pungent odour

Benzoic Acid

Page 111: Essential oils presentation

Shikimate

Chorismate

Prephenate

p-hydroxybenzoate

p-aminobenzoate

Phenylalanine

Cinnamic Acids

Tyrosine

Alkaloides

Aromatic Amino Acids

Anthranilate

Tryptophan

Phenyl-C3 Compounds

Phenyl-C1 Compounds

Flavonoids

The Shikimic Acid Pathway

Page 112: Essential oils presentation

Phenols

•Compounds with 1 or 2 hydroxy groups, similar to benzyl alcohols

•Tend to be toxic and caustic

•Prone to oxidisation

•Basically clean type odours

Eugenol

4-allyl-2-methoxyphenol

Stable

Colourless liquid

Applications: Carnation, spicy fragrances, rose and oriental perfumes

Origin: Clove, cinnamom leaf oil, patchouli, Ylang Ylang

Page 113: Essential oils presentation

Sulfate

ATP Sulphurlyase

Adenylation

Adenosin 5’-phosphosulphate

(APS)

Phosphorised

APS reductase

Sulfite

Sulfide O-acetylserine (thiol)lyase

Ferrodoxin-dependent sulphite

reductase

Cysteine

O-acetylserine

3’-phosphate 5-phosphosulphate

(PAPS)

APS Kinase

PAPS Reductase

Primary Sulphur Reduction Pathway

Minor Sulphur Reduction Pathway

Adapted from Kopriva and Koprivova, 2004

Page 114: Essential oils presentation

Extraction theory and practice

Page 115: Essential oils presentation

Principals: Latent Heat

• Molecule speed and energy dependent upon temperature

•Change from liquid to gas state requires energy

•Due to motion of molecules, all compounds with determinable boiling points will emit vapours from their surafaces, if area closed this will insert pressure upon the molecule, termed vapour pressure

•These vapours will saturate the molecule and take up additional molecules

•This saturated vapour will carry other molecules

Amount of heat required to vapourise a unit mass of liquid, without raising the

temperature of the vapour above that of the liquid is called LATENT HEAT of

vapourisation

Heat and relative pressures are important in distillation

Page 116: Essential oils presentation

The Gas Laws

Energy can neither be created nor destroyed in any system of constant mass and that heat is energy

First Law of Themodynamics

Mechanical Equivalent of heat

Energy exerts a force to move a mass against the forces of friction

i.e., 540 kilocalies of latent heat required to vapourise 1 kilogram of water in one second requires 2268 watts of power

Second Law of Thermodynamics

Heat cannot be transferred from cooler to hotter body

Page 117: Essential oils presentation

The Gas Laws

Fourier’s Law of Heat Conduction

Heat will be conducted from one plane surface to another at a rate proportional to the area of contact and at the

magnitude of differential temperatures

Boyle’s Law

At constant temperatures, the volume of a given mass of gas is inverselyProportional to the pressure on the gas

Charles’ Law

Under constant pressure, the volume of a given mass of gas is proportionalTo its absolute temperature

Page 118: Essential oils presentation

The Gas LawsAvogadro’s Law

Equal volumes of ideal gases under equal conditions of temperature and pressure contain equal numbers of molecules

All the above laws also apply to mixed vapours

Page 119: Essential oils presentation

Mixed Vapours

If two immiscible liquids are in equilibrium with a common vapur space, each will contribute equally to any unit volume of that space.

Thus, a mixture of two mutually insoluble liquids will boil when the temperature attains the point where the sum of the two

characteristic vapour pressures becomes equal to the surrounding pressure.

This is how distillation vapourises relatively high boiling materials under normal atmospheric pressure, without approaching the

corresponding boiling temperatures of the essential oil;s constituents.

Page 120: Essential oils presentation

Mixed Vapours

Molecules of water vapour a

Molecules of water vapour b

Liquid water a

Liquid oil b

Liquid water

a

Liquid oil

b

Molecules of water and gas

vapour

The composition of mixed vapours from immiscible liquids

Eg. Water 99.6c Eg linalyl acetate 226c

Together at 99.6c

Page 121: Essential oils presentation

The Principal of Essential oil Hydro Distillation

The principal of all hydro distillation for the recovery of essential oils consistsIn bringing together two mutually insoluble liquids, water and oil, at a temperature close

To the boiling point of the more volatile of the two, the water, so that the additionOf a small extra vapour pressure from the oil, will cause the mixture’s total pressure

To equalise to the surrounding pressure.

Dalton’s Law

Page 122: Essential oils presentation

Releasing Oil from Plant Materials

In steam distillation water condenses of plant surfaces and latent heat surrounds the material and raises volatile

materials to boiling point

Page 123: Essential oils presentation

Releasing Oil from Plant Materials

Herb surface

Water liquid mixed liquids oil liquids water liquids

Vapour phase98c saturated mixed

vapour

General vapour space 99c

Region of oil vapour

elution

Method of Oil Release through Putative Impression from Leaves

Page 124: Essential oils presentation

Steam in

Mixed Vapour Out

Re-condensation

Re-condensation

Re-condensation

Re-condensation

Re-condensation

Re-vapourisation

Re-vapourisation

Re-vapourisation

Re-vapourisation

Re-vapourisation

Page 125: Essential oils presentation

Oil

Prod

uced

(%)

20

40

60

80

100

Time (hours)

0.5 1.0 1.5 2.0 2.5 3.0

20 40 60 80 100 120

Litres Water Passed

The Time-Steam-Yield Rate Relationship for a Distillation

Page 126: Essential oils presentation

Eugenol

1,8 Cineole

Methyl Chavicol

Linalool

Perc

enta

ge o

f the

Dis

tilla

te

Progressive Total of Constituent in Quantity

Stage One Stage Two Stage Three

. The Distinct Stages of Distillation and During the Second Phase for Sweet Basil Oil

Page 127: Essential oils presentation

Slightly Soluble (<500ppm)

Moderately Soluble (501-1999ppm)

Very Soluble(>2000ppm)

Aldehyde C11Aldehyde C12 (lauric)Aldehyde C12 MNAAmyl cinnamic aldehydeAmyl salicylate Benzyl salicylateCedrolCitronellolCitronellyl butyrateCitronellyl formateEudesmolGeranyl formate LimoneneLinalyl acetatea-Pinene

Calamene1,8-CineoleNerolNeryl acetateRose oxide

BenzlaldehydeBenzyl acetateCinnamic alcoholCitronellyl acetatea-copanene EugenolGeranialGeraniolLimoneneLinalool MentoneMyrcene(E)-β-ocimenePhenylethylacetatePhenylethylalcoholSabineneTerpinen-4-ola-TerpineolTerpinolene

Page 128: Essential oils presentation

Practice of Distillation

Different methods of distillation will be used according to:

a) Structure of leaves and other plant materials

b) “potential modification” of plant’s chemical constituents to heat

c) Some resinous materials not volatile and wont react to distillation

Page 129: Essential oils presentation

Due to material distillation times with differ for various essential oils

Lavender

Mint

Page 130: Essential oils presentation

H&R Guide to Fragrance Ingredients

Page 131: Essential oils presentation

Steam Distillation Still

Steam Inlet from boiler

Still Drain Valve

Welded Wire Mesh Floor

Still chamber for plant material

(loaded by cartridge or directly)

Vapour outlet to condenser

Vapour Condenser

Condenser cooling water inlet

Condenser cooling water outlet

Separator Flask

Steam Outlet

Page 132: Essential oils presentation

Steam Inlet

Downward Steam Flow

Plant Material

Condenser Array

Grated Base Side opens so cartridge with Plant material can be slide in

and out of still.

Water & Oil Collector

Collector vessel

Schematic View of a Hydro-diffusion Distillation System

Page 133: Essential oils presentation

H&R Guide to Fragrance Ingredients

Page 134: Essential oils presentation

H&R Guide to Fragrance Ingredients

Page 135: Essential oils presentation

H&R Guide to Fragrance Ingredients

Page 136: Essential oils presentation

H&R Guide to Fragrance Ingredients

Page 137: Essential oils presentation

H&R Guide to Fragrance Ingredients

Page 138: Essential oils presentation

Solar Distillation

Page 139: Essential oils presentation

The Synthetics

Page 140: Essential oils presentation

Aroma Chemicals Derived from Terpenes

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Some aroma chemicals

Page 148: Essential oils presentation

Aldehyde C16 (strawberry)

Ethyl methyl phenyl glycidate

(the methyl ester of methyl phenyl glycidic acid)

Odourless liquid

Used at low dosage levels for fruity notes in jasmines, lilac, rose and orange flower and as a sweetening agent

Not reported in nature

Page 149: Essential oils presentation

Anisaldehyde

4-Methyoxybenzaldehyde

Colourless liquid

Used in lilac, gardenia, honeysuckle and other florals and to produce powdery notes

A minor constituent of vanilla

Page 150: Essential oils presentation

Benzaldehyde

Colourless Liquid

Used in traces for floral fragrances and in higher quantities for industrial fragrances

Found in bitter almond, peach, apricot, ylang ylang, cinnamon bark, cassia.

Page 151: Essential oils presentation

Benzyl Salicylate

Colourless liquidUsed as a solvent for crystaline, musk smelling aroma chemicals,

as a blender and fixative for floralsNaturally occurs in ylang ylang

Page 152: Essential oils presentation

Cedrol

Colourless crystalsPowerful odour used as a fixative in soap perfumes and household products

Naturally occurs in cedarwood and cypress oils

Page 153: Essential oils presentation

Cinnamyl Alcohol

3-Phenylprop-2-1-ol

White crystalline mass or pale yellow liquid

Modifier and fixative in rose, hyacinth, lilac, muguet and other florals, particularly for soaps

Found in cinnamon leaf oil

Page 154: Essential oils presentation

Coumarin

2-Hydroxycinnamic acid lactone

Colourless crystals

Used in chypre and fougere fragrances, lavenders and other herbal florals, usally as a fixative

Found in Tonka bean absolutes, lavender oils

Page 155: Essential oils presentation

Dihydromyrcenol

2,6-Dimethyloct-7-en-2-ol

Slightly coloured yellow liquid

Major ingredient in base of citrus fragrances, as a refresher in lilac, lily of the valley and distinction in rose fragrances.

Not reported in nature

Page 156: Essential oils presentation

Exaltolide (Firmenich)

Colourless crystaline powder or clear liquid

Used at very low dosages as a fixative and intensifier of other fragrance notes in fine fragrances

Occurs in traces in angelica root oil

cyclopentadecanolide 15-Hydroxypentadecanoic acid ketone

Page 157: Essential oils presentation

Hedione (Firmenich)

Methyl dihydrojasmonate

Colourless liquid

Used extensively in floral fragrances to create radiance and diffusive power.

Not reproted in nature

Page 158: Essential oils presentation

Cis-3-Hexenol

Cis-Hex-3-en-1-ol

(Leaf alcohol)

Colourless to slightly green liquid

In trace amounts for natral green foliage notes in florals

Occurs widely in green leaves and many essential oils

Page 159: Essential oils presentation

Indole

Colourless crystals

Very lightly in solution as a floral enhancer in jasmines and heavy florals, together with some aldehydic fragrances

Occurs in orange flower, jasmine

Page 160: Essential oils presentation

Alpha-Ionone

4-(2,6,6-Trimethylcyclohex-2-enyl)-but-3-en-2-one

Pale yellow liquid

In violet compositions, also rose, as a floraliser. Used to contribute to non-florals to enhance the powdery notes in heliotropes, and vanilla

In boronia and cassie absolutes and other essential oils

Page 161: Essential oils presentation

Liliial (Givaudan-Roure)

p-tert-Butyl alpha-methylhydrocinnamic aldehyde

Colourless to pale yellow liquid

Very widely used in florals as a floral fortifier

Not reported in nature

Page 162: Essential oils presentation

Methyl Salicylate

Methyl 2-hydroxybenzoate

Colourless liquid

In synthetic floral compositions, especially Ylang ylang and tuberose. Heavy florals. In trace amounts in light florals.

In wintergreen oil, ylang ylang.

Page 163: Essential oils presentation

Phenyl ethyl alcohol

2-Phenylethylethanol

Colourless liquid

Widely used in florals, especially rose and with aldehydes.

In rose oil, neroli, geranium and ylang ylang

Page 164: Essential oils presentation

Vertenex (IFF)

P-tert-Butyl cyclohexyl acetate

Colourless liquid

Modifier, blender and sweetening agent for most perfumes.

Not reported in nature

Page 165: Essential oils presentation

Vetiveryl acetate

A mixture of bicyclo- and tricyclo- vetiveryl acetates

Colourless liquid

Effective in chypre, aldehydic and oriental fragrances for lifting and freshening. Also as a fixative.

Not reported in nature

Page 166: Essential oils presentation

The Essential Oil Development Process

Page 167: Essential oils presentation

Biological Screening

Bio-prospecting Literature Review

Consider Crop Reintroduction

Consider New Crop Introduction

Identify Chemical

Constituents of Essential Oil

Screening for Development Potential

o Match chemical constituents of

essential oil with possible market uses

o Evaluate application potential of essential oil

o Evaluate theoretical yields, cost of production

o Evaluate time and cost of development

Value Determination (Use Criteria) Preliminary study due to volume of

possibilities

Screening Process

Market Development Policy

(Product & Enterprise)

o Identify Opportunities

o Develop Evaluation Criteria

o Identify Customer Industry

o Determine Required Quality and Monitor Development

o Consider Market Entry Strategies

o Determine Scope, Resources and Limitations

Scaling Up of the Project

Environmental Analysis

Evaluation of Capabilities

Resources, skills, knowledge, Technology,

Financial

Market Analysis

Field Development

o Project preparation & early work

o Land Selection o Development of

planting, cultivation and harvesting techniques

o Development of oil extraction techniques

Development Process

Regulatory Screening

(FDAs, REACH, SCCP, BPD, etc)

Market Entry

Enterprise &

Business

Evaluation

Page 168: Essential oils presentation

Screening Process

Page 169: Essential oils presentation
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Value

Page 171: Essential oils presentation

Ava

ilabi

lity

Incr

ease

s

Usefulness Increases

Media Reports

Ideas

Data

Information

Knowledge

Wisdom

The Continuum from media reports to wisdom in relation to availability and usefulness

Page 172: Essential oils presentation
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Market Requirements of an Essential Oil

Required Oil Yield, Quality for production/market Viability

Propagation and Planting Costs

Crop Management

Harvesting & Extraction Costs

Volume and Market Acceptance

Laboratory Research

Field Research

Weather

Land Suitability

Knowledge and Skills

De-stabilising Event –

competitor, regulation, new

substitute

Market Contacts &

Network

Actual Yields and Oil Quality

Other unforseen external factors – politics, disaster,

war, regulation, etc

Assumptions & Patience

Validity based on information & Judgement

Risk Environment in Essential Oil Development

Evaluation & selection of

suitable planting materials

Knowledge of specific crop management techniques

Knowledge of harvesting, handling

& extraction techniques

Economies of scale & correct business model, Market strategy

Plant physiology & propagation

protocols

All factors effect on yield & quality

Page 175: Essential oils presentation

$ Cost

$ Return

Degr

ee o

f Pro

cess

ing

Final Product Form

Selection of Crop

Trials

Propagation

Land Preparation

Planting, Maintenance &

Irrigation

Harvesting & Extraction

Product Development

Final Product

Crop & Project Failure

No Return

Compost &

Mulch

Biofuel

Animal Feed

Crude Essential Oil

Organic Agro-

product

Cosmetic &

Aromatherapy

Nutriceutical

Pharmaceutical

Conceptual Value Added Processing Options with Revenue and Cost

Implications

Page 176: Essential oils presentation

Consumers

Wholesalers & retailers

Manufacturers

Flavour & Fragrance Houses

Traders & Brokers

Primary Producer

Essential oil as primary Product. Focus on market demand & supply

and meeting standard

Essential oil as an ingredient in

a product. Focus on uses

and applications research

Manufacture of end products. Focus on

formulation and end product

development

Technical Focus

General or Niche Customers

Vertical Integration A

long the Supply C

hain

Application Focus

Technology Focus

IP Focus (?) Specific

Customer

Branding Theme Consumer

Marketing Reaching

Mass or selected Markets

New Product Development

Agro Industrial Consumer Orientation Orientation Orientation

Consumer Trends

Important

Technical Trends

Important

Demand & Supply, Buying

Criteria Important

Venture Focus Along Different Parts of the Supply Chain

Page 177: Essential oils presentation

Essential oil as primary Product. Focus on market

demand & supply and meeting standard

Essential oil as an ingredient in a product.

Focus on uses and applications research

Manufacture of end products. Focus on

formulation and end product

development

Vertical Integration Along the Supply Chain

Focus Along the Supply Chain

Production Orientation

Application Orientation

Market Orientation

Page 178: Essential oils presentation

Essential Oil

Other Aromatic Extract

Aromatic Chemical (bio-route)

Aromatic Chemical (physical route)

Agro-Tourism Agricultural By-Products

The set of opportunities for an essential oil producer

Flavour & Fragrance

Commodity Oil

Specialty Oil

Aroma Chemical

Aromatherapy & Cosmetic

Production & marketing of

products Pharmaceutical

Agro-chemical

Business through select supply chains

Single Crop Portfolio of Crops

Higher differentiation and value adding

Builds brand image and support. Complements other activities.

General Trading (marketing)

Region’s production Specialised single oil

marketing General multi-oil

marketing

Diversification of activities

Mulches

Bio-fuel

Cattle feeds

Paper

Utilisation of wastes

Production of herbs and spices

Other diversification

Research Should be Focused Here

Page 179: Essential oils presentation

Natural Feed-Stocks

Physical Extraction

Essential Oils

Solvent Extraction

Aromatic Extracts

Selective Extractions

Aroma Chemicals

Enzyme Precursors

Microorganism synthesis

Specialty Chemicals

Mostly Imitation Here

The Areas of Growth are Here

Page 180: Essential oils presentation

Other Potential Economic Products

Lemon Myrtle

Dried leaf

Spice extract

Essential Oils

Herbal Tea, Food Flavouring, Spices

Antibacterial, Antimicrobial, Antioxidant

Dietary Supplement, Energy Drinks,

Toiletries (soap, shampoo) , Aromatherapy

and Fragrances

Pharmaceutical

Functional Food

Nutraceutical

Body Care

Semi - Finished Finished Product

Potential Product Development

Page 181: Essential oils presentation

Discovery: 2-10 years The extraction or synthesis of a new clinical or biological substance

Preclinical Testing: 4 years Laboratory and animal testing

Clinical trials: 7 years Phase 1 20-80 health volunteers used to determine safety, pharmacological and dosage.

Clinical trials: Phase 2 100-300 patient volunteers used to determine safety and efficacy

Clinical Trials: Phase 3 1000-5000 volunteer patients used to determine clinical health benefit and incidence of adverse reactions

TGA Registration 1.5-2 years 35-40K pages of data submitted for evidence on average

Pharmaceutical Benefits Scheme: 8 months Determination of cost effectiveness

Product Promoted to the Medical Profession Post Marketing Monitoring: monitor safety and efficacy when used in wider population, with other diseases and taking other medicines.

Page 182: Essential oils presentation

Opportunity

JV, partnerships,

strategic alliances, etc

Underlying Knowledge

Unexploited or idle

resources

Sustainability of the

venture for long-term survival

Cost and performance benefits of

product

Impact on and from

local community

Access to capital

R&D

Economies of scale or competitive advantage through differentiation

Access to market/ network

Market driven selection of crops and product Customer

driven management

Govt./ institutional support

Some Success factors

Page 183: Essential oils presentation

An Existing Crop – Product Already TradedThis can be seen as an improvement on existing production

or setting up new production in an area already producing the crop.

Improving cultivation and harvesting methods to improve productivity

Finding new customers and channels to increase sales

An Existing Crop – Leading to a New ProductThis may involve moving along the value chain to a new

market based on an essential oil already produced or producing an essential oil for some type of value added product.

Improving cultivation and harvesting methods to improve productivity

Finding out what products potential customers want In a new product

Producing a new product according to identified consumer needs

Organising the supply chain for the new product to get to market

Making the product available to more consumers who are likely to want it

A New Crop to a New Geographic AreaThis involves producing an essential oil already in trade in a

new geographical area. Establishing the most efficient way to cultivate,

harvest and process the essential oil Matching the newly produced essential oil with

customer expectations and requirements Organising the supply chain so the essential oil

reaches the market Making the essential oil available to new

customers who are likely to require it

A New Crop and New ProductThis involves producing a product higher up the value chain,

differentiating it and producing the essential oil. Making informed decisions about new crop

choices Establishing the most efficient way to cultivate,

harvest and process the essential oil Finding out from potential customers what they

want in the new oil Making sure the oil meets the customers needs

as closely as possible Organising the supply chain so the essential oil

reaches the market

The Essential Oil Strategic Matrix

Page 184: Essential oils presentation

Market Analysis

• Knowledge of Industry• Knowledge of Potential Applications• Knowledge of Customers• Understanding of Derived Demand• Understanding of Trends• Understanding of Other Developments &

Improving Technology and Knowledge

Page 185: Essential oils presentation

Competitive Rivalries Lemongrass quick yield and straightforward to cultivate and distil – expect high elasticity of supply from both existing and new producers. Producers of substitutes very aggressive

Bargaining Power of Suppliers Collecting the most suitable planting material require effort. Extraction and harvest .technology needs to be acquired or developed Analytical equipment or service maybe expensive/remote.

Substitutes Citral (main constituents) can be produced from a number of chemical feed stocks. Alternative oils (litsea cubeba) cost much less to produce. Lemon myrtle oil much smoother and acceptable to end users Many alternatives to lemongrass in product formulations.

Trends & Technology Alternative technologies to steam distillation (CO2) can make much smoother oil but will increase capital needs greatly. Natural, exotic, organic, FAIRTRADE could increase oils popularity (?) if seen as exotic.

Substitutes

Tren

ds &

Tec

hnol

ogy

Bargaining power of buyers

Bargaining power of suppliers

Competitive Rivalries

Reg

ulat

ion

Regulation SCCP placed lemongrass oil under scrutiny as a cosmetic ingredient in EU.

Industry Competitors

Intensity of Rivalry

Bargaining Power of Buyers Currently small item of trade in flavour industry, strong relationships with established producers.

Page 186: Essential oils presentation

Opportunities

Threats

Cognitive Bias

Strengths Weaknesses

Competitors identifying the same opportunities and enacting upon them

The regulatory environment and potential changes within it

Inability to penetrate the existing supply chain and make alternative strategies

Dependence on survival from a single or very few customers

Depending on a single product for total revenue

Adverse acts of God, bad weather, drought, etc.

Opportunities

Threats

Cognitive Bias

Strengths Weaknesses

Competitors identifying the same opportunities and enacting upon them

The regulatory environment and potential changes within it

Inability to penetrate the existing supply chain and make alternative strategies

Dependence on survival from a single or very few customers

Depending on a single product for total Any factor or group of factors that may potentially hinder enterprise growth in a sustainable manner without any contingencies verse acts of God, bad weather, drought, etc.

An identified market where enterprise resources and competencies will be able to exploit

The potential opportunity will have a large enough market size to sustain the enterprise

The enterprise will be able to take advantage of this opportunity better than any other competitors

Outside elements in the supply chain will support the enterprise

Any factor or group of factors that will allow

the enterprise to grow in a sustainable manner from the market environment

Personal and enterprise competencies, knowledge & experience that can be utilised for the benefit of the enterprise

Facilities, infrastructure, financial backing & liquidity, long timeframe view

Ability to learn through research and experimentation

Any network connections with industry and access to the supply chain for both information and marketing

Ambition and vision (but not delusional), focus & commitment

Ability to innovate technically, market and organisational wise

Any factor or group of factors that can assist the enterprise gain

competitive advantage over its competitors

Competency gap Short term timeframe, no fall back position if

positive results delayed or there are technical or market failures

Poor infrastructure that hinders production or marketing

Shortage of funds to undertake project to completion

Qualified or lack of commitment by any key people within organisation

Lack of network, knowledge and access to supply chain

Any factor or group of factors that can hinder the enterprise gain competitive advantage

over its competitors

Opportunities are seen with bias according to knowledge, experience, wisdom, educational background, market knowledge, competencies, etc.

Page 187: Essential oils presentation

High Market Growth Low Strong Weak Relative Competitive Position

Crude Essential Oil Steam Distilled

Essential Oil under

CO2 extraction

Cosmetic production for international

market

Organic Cosmetic

production for international

market

Essential Oil Based Agro-

chemical

Page 188: Essential oils presentation

Organisational Capability Creative, Opportunity, conceptual, strategic, Learning, Organisational, financial, Technical,

Marketing, Networking and Commitment Competencies

How the Business is Currently Performing

The base for potential future Development

Resources Existing and Available to the Business

The Set of Potential Opportunities

Tim

e an

d C

ompa

ny E

volu

tion/

Cha

nge

Enterprise Performance

Personal Objectives

Strengths and Weaknesses

Theme Personal Resources Network

Product

Management Finance

4 Ps & Skills

Facilities

Attributes

Exte

rnal

Influ

ence

s &

Thre

ats

Mar

ket

E

cono

my

R

egula

tion

Tec

hnolo

gy

P

ositio

n

Soc

ial S

itu

ation

C

hang

e &

Com

petit

ion

Asp

iratio

ns

De

velop

ment

Key internal influences on the strategic

process

The process of product/market development

Key external influences on the strategic

process

Competitive Position

Cognitive Bias

Structural/ Support Strategies

Interventional Strategies

Page 189: Essential oils presentation

Threat of New EntrantsThreat of competition from

new technology(in past from petrochemicals)

Bargaining Power Of suppliers

Restrictions on The supply of

beta-pineneThe required

feedstock Other producers of geraniol

Industry competitiveness

Intensity of rivalry

Threat of substitutes

Possible reformulation with other rose materials eg.

Phenyl ethyl alcohol

Bargaining power of buyers

Concentration of usage into few major

compounders strengthen buyer

power

Adapted from Porter, M. E, Competitive

Advantage: Creating and Sustaining

Superior Performance, New York, Free Press,

1985

Porter’s Five Force Analysis for Gernaiol

Page 190: Essential oils presentation

Price

Time

New producers entering the market

Price by determination of value to end users

Price by determination of production costs (Most efficient production)

Page 191: Essential oils presentation

Potential with Right Products and Correct Distribution and Branding

Depend on Location

Potential with Right Products and Correct

Distribution and Branding

Potential with Right Products and Correct

Distribution and Branding

Limited Unless a Specific Market Exists

Potential Large Market Dispersed Worldwide

Very Limited Unless Large Domestic Market

Local Market International Market

Essential Oil

Differentiated Product

Specialty/End Product

Much Larger Market with Competition

Diversification

Local or International Market Opportunities

Page 192: Essential oils presentation

Scale and Vision/Mission of the farm/plantation

• Vision and mission and objectives

Page 193: Essential oils presentation

The Commitment

Page 194: Essential oils presentation

The Farm Family Family & Farm History, Current farm Operation, Current Family Status.

Strategic Business Analysis

Land Labour Capital

Business Goals

Family Values

The Vision “Mission Statement”

Family Goals

Self Assessment Communication Skills Decision Making Skills

Knowledge

Personal Goals

Business Plan

Production & Operations

Marketing

Personnel

Financial

Risk

Management

Retirement Plan

Timing of retirement

Life after

retirement

Retirement Income needs

Retirement

Income sources

Farm withdrawals

Succession Plan

Grooming successors

Fairness to all

children

Transfer strategies

Financing the

transfer

Tax planning

Estate Plan

Valuing the

estate

Liquidity needs

Planning you will

Establishing living powers

Tax planning

Investment Plan

Disposable

income

Time horizon

Investment options

Risk

management

Tax planning

Adapted from Manitoba Agriculture

Page 195: Essential oils presentation

Agro-Tourism

Page 196: Essential oils presentation

Issue Comments

Focus Paradigm Requires focus on concept of product application where current focus is on cultivationThis requires researchThis requires an entrepreneurial approachConcepts not readily understood by conventional farmers

Basic Research Needs access to Worldwide dataRequires availability of suitable germplasmsRequires basic R&D to determine where crop technically suitableRequires R&D to determine whether potential crop is economically feasibleVery difficult to get R&D assistanceShortage of skills and expertise in many areas

Crop Management and Processing

Propagation technologiesHow to plant, cultivate and manage the cropHow to harvest, extract, store and handleHow to processHow to packageTransportation and storage

Marketing Infrastructure Require coordination of production with demand (important with new essential oil production)Require correct channels of distribution (critical)Requires a marketing strategy (change of paradigm from producing orientation)

Economics and Logistics Requires enough volume to economically transport and distribute (especially in low to medium value oils)Requires a solution to inconsistencies of quality and production

Organisation Need committed people with strong leadership and trust

Government Need to translate support into actionNeed funding allocations for research & developmentNeed infrastructure

Regulation Need to fund infrastructure to meet EPA & HACCP, etcNeed to identify and fulfil the requirements of various regulatory bodies

Finance Very difficult to obtain funding for these projects

Customers & Consumers Need to identify who are the customers in which part of the value chainNeed to work closely with selected customers

Page 197: Essential oils presentation

2. The Screening Process

Page 198: Essential oils presentation

To Development Process

First Stage: Theoretical & Biological Screening

Biological Screening

Screening For

Development Potential

To Market Development

Linked to all stages

Regulatory Screening

REACH, BPD, SCP, GRAS, etc

Page 199: Essential oils presentation

Biological Screening

Bio-prospecting Literature Review

Consider Crop Reintroduction Consider New Crop Introduction

Identify Chemical Constituents of Essential Oil

Screening for Development Potential

o Match chemical constituents of essential oil

with possible market uses o Evaluate application potential of essential oil o Evaluate theoretical yields, cost of production o Evaluate time and cost of development

Value Determination (Use Criteria) Preliminary study due to volume of possibilities

The Screening Process

Regulatory Screening

(FDAs, REACH, SCCP, BPD, etc)

Generation of Possibilities

Elimination of Possibilities

Leads to a number of potential possibilities that can be further studied

Page 200: Essential oils presentation

Potential New Crop Ideas screened through a process that eliminates

potential ideas.

? The industrial product ideation process aims to generate ideas from

a zero base.

Leads to one crop (idea) to be developed

Leads to many ideas to be further screened

Page 201: Essential oils presentation

Bio-Prospecting

Desktop Studies

Page 202: Essential oils presentation

Actual Conditions Range of Possible Growing Conditions for Potential Crop

General climate Range of micro-climates Topography that influences micro-climates Rainfall range (access to irrigation) Temperature ranges Daylight hours Soil types Soil characteristics (pH, humus profile, soil layers, etc)

Preferred climate(s) Preferred micro-climates Preferred topography Preferred rainfall levels Preferred temperature ranges Preferred daylight hours Preferred soil types Preferred soil characteristics

Comparison Factors between Potential Cultivation Site and Potential Crop

Latitudes 44° North & South

Page 203: Essential oils presentation

Actual Conditions Range of Possible Growing Conditions for Potential Crop

General climate Range of micro-climates Topography that influences micro-

climates Rainfall range (access to

irrigation) Temperature ranges Daylight hours Soil types Soil characteristics (pH, humus

profile, soil layers, etc)

Preferred climate(s) Preferred micro-climates Preferred topography Preferred rainfall levels Preferred temperature ranges Preferred daylight hours Preferred soil types Preferred soil characteristics

Comparison Factors between Potential Cultivation Site and Potential Crop

Page 204: Essential oils presentation

Lemongrass

Caraway Tea tree Artemisia Vanilla Rue Perilla Geranium Hyssop Cardamom Dill Aloe (Eaaglewood)

Sandalwood Lemon Balm Galanga Cumin Lime Coriander Lemon Ylang Ylang Angelica Lavender

Plant

Cymbopogon citratus

Carum carvi

Melaleuca alternifolia

Artemisia vulgaris

Vanilla planifolia

Ruta graveolens

Perilla frutescens

Pelargonium graveolens

Hyssopus officinalis

Elettaria cardamomum

Anethum graveolens L.

Aquilaria malaccensis Lam.

Santalum album

Melissa officinalis

Alpinia galanga

Cuminum cyminum

Citrus aurantifolia

Coriandrum sativum

Citrus limon

Cananga odorata

Angelica archangelica

Lavendula angustifolia

Botanical Name

Grasslands

Temperate

Sub-tropical

Tem/tropical

Tropical Mediterranean

Tropical Temp/Sub-Tro

Mediterranean

Temp/Tropical

Temperate

Tropical Arid-monsoon

Temperate

Tropical Sub-tropical

Tropical Coast

Versatile Mediterranean

Tropical Temperate

Mediterranean

Habitat

24◦C

16°C

21°C

21°C

17°C

10°C

- 15°C

20°C

22°C

14°C

24°C

17°C

22°C

6°C 15°C

- 5°C 15°C

30°C

20°C

30°C

30°C

26°C

24°C

- 18°C

22°C

30°C

25°C

30°C

26°C

28°C

17°C

18°C

- 19°C

28°C

18°C

7°C 10°C

10°C

4°C

10°C

7°C 10°C

6°C 18°C

10°C

6°C 18°C

9°C 18°C

4°C -

21°C

- 7°C

34◦C

26°C

45°C

33°C

30°C

32°C

36°C

35°C

26°C

32°C

38°C

30°C

34◦C

26°C

32°C

28°C+

- 32°C

- 24°C

Temperature Range

Optimal Max.

1500mm

600mm

800mm

1500mm

500mm

600mm

1500mm

500mm

- 450mm

500mm

1500mm

800mm

1250mm

1500mm

250mm

1500mm

600mm

500mm

3000mm

1300mm

3000mm

3000mm

1500mm

1000mm

1700mm

1700mm

- 3000mm

1300mm

3000mm

2700mm

2500mm

2500mm

1250mm

2000mm

1300mm

1000mm

20° N&S

45-60°N

0-32°N&S

0-60°N 20°S-20°N

30-45°N

0-50°N 30-50° 25-66° 5-35°N&S

28-45°N&S

0-25°N&S

20° N&S

30-45°N&S

20° N&S

Along 30°N

30°S-30°N

40°S-40°N

40°S-45°N

10-15°N&S

30-45°N&S

35-55°N&S

Rainfall Lat. Range (mm)

<1400m

<700m <700m <1200m <2000m <1400m - <1000m <2500m <1700m lowlands lowlands <2200m <2200m - <400m 700-1700m

<1700m

Altitude

Direct Sunlight Direct sunlight Direct sunlight Direct sunlight Part shade Direct sunshine Light shade Light shade Direct sunlight Shaded areas Direct sunlight Direct sunlight Direct exposure Direct exposure Partial Shade Direct exposure Direct Sunlight Direct exposure Direct exposure Direct after maturity - Direct Sunlight

Diurnal Radiation

Hours

Page 205: Essential oils presentation

Worksheet for Rough Calculation of Financial Viability at Initial Screening Stage

1. Costs of Crop Domestication

Can they potential crop be domesticated into field production easily? If not, will biomass be wild-collected?

What method would be most suitable for propagation, from seed, cuttings, tissue culture, other?

Does nursery propagation of the potential crop require any other special care?What staffing will be required?

What would be the approximate costs of achieving the above?

Page 206: Essential oils presentation

2. Field Preparation and Infrastructure

What overall infrastructure will be needed?, nursery, road access, fencing, outbuildings, farming equipment, etc.

What land preparation is needed, land levelling and contouring, drainage, etc.Does the crop require large amounts of water to thrive during growth?

Is there adequate water available through rainfall to satisfy this?Will irrigation be required? If so, what method?

Will dams and catchment areas have to be constructed to ensure a plentiful water supply?

What will be the approximate costs of this?Are there any other potential costs?

Page 207: Essential oils presentation

3. Planting and Maintenance

Approximately how long will the crop take from field planting to harvest maturity?How will the potential crop be planted?, manually/automated?

What will be the costs involved?What would the approximate planting density be?

Will nutrients have to be applied? If so, how regularly?, How much? What method will be used to apply them?

What will be the approximate costs of this?How often are re-plantings required? After each harvest, after a number of seasons, after how many years, what are the costs involved to prepare for each re-planting?

Page 208: Essential oils presentation

4. Harvesting, Extraction and Post Extraction

Is harvest timing crucial?, ie, a time of day, a very short window in a particular month, etc

What are the costs involved in achieving this harvest window?What method of harvest will be utilised?

Manual, semi-mechanised, fully mechanisedWhat would be the approximate costs of building the harvest equipment?

What method of extraction will be required? Hydro-distillation, steam distillation, destructive distillation, vacuum distillation, solvent extraction, other

What power sources will be utilised? What are their costs?How will spent biomass be dealt with?

Does it have any economic value or can it be used back in the farming process?Is the technology understood for the above processes?

If not, what will be the costs of acquiring it?What will be the fabrication costs to build the above?

What regulations (ie., EPA) are relevant to the processes? And how much will development and compliance cost?

Will specialist staff be required?What would the approximate cost of energy to oil yield?

Page 209: Essential oils presentation

5. Estimated (guessed) Project Size and Yields

How many hectares do you anticipate to cultivate?How many years will it take to achieve this?

What (based on literature and other knowledge) would be the approximate biomass per hectare achievable? (min. and max. est.)

Does the biomass have to be wilted, stored or otherwise processed before extraction?

What would be the yield as a percentage of biomass after extraction?

Page 210: Essential oils presentation

6. Estimated Financial Viability

1. Research costs =2. Costs of crop domestication =

3. Field preparation and infrastructure costs =4. Propagation, planting and maintenance costs =5. Harvesting, extraction & post extraction costs =

Total Capital Costs (1+3) =Total operational costs (2+4+5) =

Total amount of oil yielded =Total oil value =

Value – total operational costs =Return/total capital costs x 100 = Return on investment

Page 211: Essential oils presentation

Biological Screening

• Bio-prospecting• Literature Review• Consider Reintroduction of a Crop• Consider Introduction of New Crop

Identify Chemical Constituents of Essential Oil

Page 212: Essential oils presentation

Screening For Development Potential

• Match Chemical Constituents of Essential Oil to Possible Market Uses

• Evaluate Application Potential of Essential Oil

• Evaluate Yields, Cost of production• Evaluate Time and Cost of Development• Value Determination (Use Criteria)

Page 213: Essential oils presentation

Screening

• Require Knowledge of Essential Oil Applications

• Require knowledge of International Market• Require Knowledge of International

Regulations• Need to Collaborate with Industry Parties

Page 214: Essential oils presentation

Screening Protocols

• Anti inflammatory• Anti microbial• Skin whitening• UV absorbing• Anti age actives• Flavour & fragrance application• Aromatherapy

Page 215: Essential oils presentation

Group Characteristics Examples Uses Flavour/ Odour Profile due to one or more constituents

Usually high volume/low to medium value products. Level of chemical constituents very important in trade. Aroma chemicals often good substitutes.

Mint Lemongrass

Some citrus oils Eucalyptus

Clove

Perfume and Flavour compounds Flavours where natural status is desired Some citrus oils used for cleaning solvents. Isolation of natural aroma chemicals, eg., eugenol from clove oil.

Flavour/ Odour Profile due to one or few major constituents that cannot be easily reconstructed

Usually medium to high volume, medium priced oils. Olfactory and flavour characteristics more important in purchase decisions. Difficult to reconstitute.

Vativert Sandalwood

Patchouli

Perfumery and flavour compounds (both functional and fine perfumery)

Character from main constituents, but richness and complexity from minor constituents

Low volume/high priced oils. Olfactory characteristics important in purchase decisions and pricing. In most cases oils can be reconstituted efficiently.

Rose oil Jasmine absolute Many herb oils

Fine perfumery (mainly reconstitutions used for functional perfumes) Limited flavour use Majority of herb oils used for flavours but beginning to be used in fragrances

None of the main constituents contribute decisively to the desired odour/ flavour profile

Low volume/hogh priced oils. Olfactory characteristics most important in purchase decisions. In most cases good reconstitutions can be produced.

Mimosa absolute Fine perfumery (usually too expensive to use for functional products)

Classes, Characteristics and Uses of Essential Oils

Adapted from Naf (1989) and Petrzilka (1991) in Hunter

(1995)

Page 216: Essential oils presentation

A new material must have the following characteristics to have commercial potential

a) The novelty of the new essential oil

b) The perceived potential uses and applications of the new essential oil

c) The closeness of any substitutes to the new essential oil

d) The stability of the new essential oil

e) The cost/price performance ratio of the new essential oil

f) The toxicity aspects of the new essential oil

g) The general consistency of supply and quality

h) The prevailing market/product trends, and

i) The current level of technologyKastner (1991) modified by Hunter (1995)

Page 217: Essential oils presentation

Evaluating the Characteristic Strengths and Weaknesses of Essential Oils

The novelty of a new essential oil

The major factor determining the novelty is the perceived uniqueness of the essential oil’s organoleptic profile. Thus, the degree of novelty

is limited by the closeness of potential substitutes. The concept of novelty extends to essential oils that are more cost effective sources of natural aroma chemicals. New natural sources of aroma chemicals would also

fit into this criteria of novelty.

Page 218: Essential oils presentation

The potential uses and applications of a new essential oil

Without perfumers and flavourists perceiving applications potential, a new essential oil will remain in the realm of curiosity. Time, effort and imagination

on the part of perfumers and flavourists is required to discover useful applications for new essential oils. It is under this criteria that most new

essential oils will struggle to find acceptance as a new aromatic material.

Page 219: Essential oils presentation

The closeness of any substitutes

It is difficult to find essential oils that cannot be duplicated by reconstitutions. New essential oils with close substitutes are of little value to the flavour

and fragrance industry, unless they can offer a significant cost or stability advantage. The only exception is when a new essential oil is a source of

a natural aroma material.

Page 220: Essential oils presentation

The Toxicity

The cost of proving a new material is safe to use in flavours and fragrances is a major obstacle to the development of new aromatic

materials. The industry has an impeccable reputation for self regulation and added EU regulations increases the cost of preparing

dossiers on new materials even more. In markets outside the EU, most international flavour and fragrance houses would not consider

using a new essential oil unless it meets IFRA safety and toxicity recommendations and is included on the GRAS list.

Page 221: Essential oils presentation

The general consistency of quality and supply

Natural material will vary in quality according to geographic origin, type of soil, level of nutrients in the soil, climate and weather, rainfall, time of harvest, season, method of extraction, altitude and the incidence of pests and diseases. Likewise there are risks with continual supply of natural materials because of adverse weather conditions, changes in climate, floods and other natural disasters, wars, political upheavels and the inexperience of new producers. Launching new consumer products require large investments on the part of the end product manufacturer. Flavour and fragrance houses do

not want to be placed in a position of being unable to supply a manufacturer with a flavour or fragrance compound because

of the unavailability of a raw material.

Page 222: Essential oils presentation

The prevailing market/product trends

Market and product trends slowly evolve. Changes in market trends are the result of complex forces, including technology, which makes

new trends possible, advertising, and cultural influences upon consumer tastes and preferences. A particular essential oil may

become more or less important to the flavour and fragrance industry, depending upon these trends.

Page 223: Essential oils presentation

The current level of technology

New technology advances influence the value of existing aromatic materials to the flavour and fragrance industry. The development of new essential oil reconstitutions are aimed at eliminating some

of the potential toxicity and solubility problems of existing essential oils. Reconstitutions are generally more stable and cheaper than

their more expensive natural counterparts. As better and more cost effective reconstitutions are developed in the future, the use of some

essential oils will decline. Since the advent of more sophisticated analytical techniques, like GC-MS, headspace analysis, electronic noses, aroma chemical and specialty product manufacturers have

been better able to isolate powerful aromatic molecules from essential oils and synthesise these compounds. The discovery of new aroma chemicals in essential oils due to increased equipment sensitivity

is more likely to lead to synthesis rather than cultivation.

Page 224: Essential oils presentation

Potential essential oil crop

idea

Bio-prospecting Screening Protocols o Anti inflammatory o Anti microbial o UV absorbing o Anti ageing actives o Flavour & fragrance

application o Aromatherapy o Anti cancer

Desktop study

Knowledge Required o Essential oil applications o International market

(Flavour & fragrance, cosmetics, personal care, agro-chemical, aromatherapy, etc.)

o International regulations

Need to collaborate with industry parties

Ethno-botany

Other literature (Journals,

etc.)

Study of same

latitude Crops

What has value to industry?

o Chemical

constituents o Odour/flavour

profile o Potential

applications

Match chemical constituents with possible market

uses

Evaluate application potential of essential oil

Evaluate theoretical yields, cost of production

Evaluate time and cost of

development

Value Determination (Preliminary study due to volume of possibilities)

Choice and Access to Market

Jurisdiction Regulatory Framework

Page 225: Essential oils presentation

Regulatory Screening

• United States - GRAS (Generally Regarded as Safe)• RIFM – Collections of Monographs• Food and Drug Administration• Europe – REACH, BPD, SCP

More Later on this subject

Page 226: Essential oils presentation

Second Stage: Development Process

Environmental

Analysis

Evaluation of Capabilities

Market Analysis

Technical

Development

Opportunities & Threats

Finance, Knowledge, Land

Tenure, etc

Market, Customers, Options

Project Development in

the Field

Commercialisation Strategies

Market Development

Page 227: Essential oils presentation

Development Process

Page 228: Essential oils presentation

Production Processes

Farm size & layout

Organisation & methods

Propagation

Cultivation

Processing

Marketing

Climate

Weather Rainfall Wind

Sunshine UV radiation Temperature

Humidity

Conducive weather Or

Floods, droughts, etc

Physical Environment

Soil Topography Atmosphere

Natural flora & fauna habitat Urbanisation

Suitability of conditions Pollution (air, land & water)

Labour sources Water resources

(create hinterland where farm part of)

Human Habituation

Knowledge Suppliers & contractors

Pollution Attitudes and concerns

Resource inputs, fertilizers, herbicides, insecticides, machinery, research capabilities

Positive Inputs Water

Sunshine Nitrogen

Agricultural inputs Fertilizers etc Knowledge

Labour

Negative Inputs

Adverse physical conditions

Pests & diseases Pollution

Heavy metals

Business Environment

Markets Finance

Trade environment

Customers Financing &

various kinds of capital

Competition Low prices

Changing demand patterns

Government Infrastructure Regulation

Taxes & subsidies

Trade environment

Research

Negative Outputs

Runoffs, wastes, carbon

Some recycling back to system

Positive Outputs

Products

Revenue flow back to system

An Agricultural Enterprise as a System

Page 229: Essential oils presentation

Evaluation of Resources & Capabilities

• Resources - Funding - Time - Facilities & Infrastructure - Equipment - Literature• Capabilities - Available Skills (Research Team) - Experience

Page 230: Essential oils presentation

Research into genetic material and propagation

methods

Ongoing genetic material improvement

research

Leads onto

Acceptable genetic material for commercial

production and a set of propagation

practices

Leads onto

Research into planting, spacings densities, best environmental conditions, nutrient and moisture levels

Acceptable field practices for the

crop

Leads onto

Research into harvesting methods, harvest

timeframes, pre-extraction handling methods

Acceptable harvest and pre-extraction practices for the

crop

Ongoing agronomic research aimed

towards better yields and chemical composition

Leads onto

Research into various extraction methods and

techniques

Acceptable extraction practices

Research into post extraction handling

methods

Acceptable post extraction handling

practices

Ongoing research into post extraction

handling

Leads onto

Leads onto

Leads onto Leads onto

The set of optimum enterprise site specific agronomic and extraction

practices

An Operational Farm Research and

Management Plan

Page 231: Essential oils presentation

Understand factors and issues

Identify research opportunities.

Understand the phenomena and

prioritize them. Find methods and techniques to solve problems and

exploit research opportunities.

Utilise knowledge and technology through

specific trials under field conditions to make

improvements in yields and obtain specified oil

constituents.

Evaluate results, develop practices for field and processing

tasks.

Experiment on relevant

Issues & Factors

Identification and

Evaluation of Research Opportunities

Survey Priorities

Procedure in Selecting Critical Research Issues (Develop a body of knowledge and specific technologies climate, soil and

site specific)

Develop potential

practices

Principal operational methods Growth, propagation, planting, maintenance, harvesting & processing

Page 232: Essential oils presentation

Carbon dioxide Glycolysis Glucose 2 Acetyl CoA Fatty acid Acetoacetyl-CoA thiolase Acetocetyl CoA HMGS-CoA syntesis 3-hydroxy-3-methyl-glutaryl-CoA (HMG-CoA) HMGL-CoA lyase HMGR-CoA reductase Mevalonate Mevalonate pyrophosphate IPP isomerase Isopentenyl pyrophosphate (IPP) DMAPP (C5) Monoterpene synthases and cyclase Geranyl pyrophosphate (C10) prenyltransferase Farnesyl pyrophosphate (FPP) (C15) Sesquiterpene Synthesis & Cyclase Diterpene synthase & Cyclase Squalene syntase Geranyl geranylpyrophosphate (C20) Squalene (C30)

Cytokinins Isopentyl adenine

rubber

Monoterpeness

Sesquiterpenes Polyprenols Farnesylated

proteins

Sterols Saponins Hormones

Lipoproteins

Diterpenes Carotenoids Abscisic acid Chlorophyll Vitamin K

Pare and Tumlinsen (1997), Chappel (1995), Weissenborn et al (1995), van der Heijden et al,

1994, and van Kush (1994).

Page 233: Essential oils presentation

Farming set up

Page 234: Essential oils presentation

Essential Oil Technical Development

• Project Preparation and Early Work - Stakeholders - Team - Objectives - Funding - Plan

Page 235: Essential oils presentation

Essential Oil Technical Development

• Land Selection - Suitable (Soil, Rainfall, drainage, access) - Climate - Location - Tenure - Future Expansion

Page 236: Essential oils presentation

Constituent Variations

Page 237: Essential oils presentation

Yield Variations

Page 238: Essential oils presentation

Tansy Tanacetum vulgare L

(Asteraceae)

Genotype Chemotypes

Camphor Type

1,8-Cineole Type

Artemisia ketone Type

Thujone Type

Myrtenol Type

Chemotype Variances

Other Chemotype

Compound C1 C2 C3 1,8-Cineole 16.0 27.2 14.5 Borneol 1.8 0.1 0.8 Camphor 16.2 9.8 0.5 Terpenin-4-ol 2.4 13.8 1.9 Myrtenol 24.9 10.6 15.8 E-Nerolidol Tr. 1.7 0.6 a-pinene 5.5 4.9 0.5 ß-pinene 2.2 2.3 Tr. Spathulenol 1.3 1.7 1.8 a-thujene Tr. 0.1 Tr. a-Terpinene 0.5 3.1 0.5 Ў-Terpinene 0.9 5.6 0.3 o-Cymene 0.7 3.4 0.3 Sabinene 1.7 1.7 Tr. Camphene 1.5 0.8 1.1

Adapted from Mockute & Judzentiene (2003), (2004) and Steiner, et.al., (2005).

Page 239: Essential oils presentation

Sample Linalool Methylchavical

Olfactory Profile

India 14.2% 77.5% A grassy herbaceous and mildly spicy predominating note, with a herbaceous subsidiary note; back notes slightly fruity.

French 55.3% 10.9% A smmoth fresh and diffusive herbaceous note with harmonized cool anisic and slightly balsamic subsidiary notes and warm woody back notes.

Australian 34.3% 34.7% A clean vegetableptype note with a cool herbaceous menthol-like subsidiary note; a green and grassy back note.

Seychelles 27.7% 40.2% A sharp diffusive clean grassy herbaceous note, with a fruity anisic subsidiary note and a very slightly camphoraceous back note.

Reunion (Australian grown) 3.4% 75.7% A sharp, if not somewhat dry, anisic note; the subsidiary notes were herbaceous with a slight sweet camphoraceous floral back note.

Lachowicz, K., J., Jones, G., P., Briggs, D., R., Bienvenu, F., E., Palmer, M., V., Ting, S., T., and Hunter, M., Characteristics of Essential Oil from Basil (Ocimum basilicum L.) Grown in Australia, Journal of Agriculture and Food Technology, Vol. 44, No. 3., 1996, pp. 877-881.

Different Major Chemical and Olfactory Profiles of Five Basil Oils

Page 240: Essential oils presentation

Topographic Variations

Mentha piperata

Mint

Page 241: Essential oils presentation

Texture

Layer Depth

Organic Material

Moisture Content

pH

Drainage & Evaporation, etc

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Essential Oil Technical Development

• Development of Propagation Material - Easy to Domesticate? - Seed Collection (genetic variance) - Other Propagation Methods

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Require

Uniformity

In Product

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Genetic materialChemotype Variances for Melaleuca

cajuputi

Principal Oil

Constituents

Variant 1 Variant 2 Variant 3 Variant 4 Variant 5 Variant 6

a-pinene 2.1 2.5 3.1 2.1 19.5 3.8 a-thujene 0.3 0.9 1.2 0.2 - 0.8 b-pinene 1.1 0.9 1.1 1.4 8.6 2.5 Limonene 5.6 4.9 4.8 5.2 17.4 6.9 1.8-cineole 62.8 41.6 34.0 66.5 21.5 50.7 g-terpinene 1.2 7.4 5.0 0.9 8.7 3.1 g-cymene 1.3 3.5 5.7 0.5 3.0 1.4 Terpinelene 0.6 1.0 0.5 0.3 4.1 1.5 b-caryophyellene

3.7 6.9 7.4 3.3 2.8 4.9

Aromadendrene 0.9 1.4 1.7 0.7 1.2 0.9 Humulene 1.8 3.9 0.3 1.9 0.1 2.3 Vindifflorene 4.5 3.1 2.5 3.8 1.7 3.7 a-terpineol 4.5 3.0 2.4 3.8 1.9 3.8

Geographic Variances within a single chemotype

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Constituent Variations

Slee, M., U., 1995

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Yield Variations

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Sample Linalool Methylchavical

Olfactory Profile

India 14.2% 77.5% A grassy herbaceous and mildly spicy predominating note, with a herbaceous subsidiary note; back notes slightly fruity.

French 55.3% 10.9% A smmoth fresh and diffusive herbaceous note with harmonized cool anisic and slightly balsamic subsidiary notes and warm woody back notes.

Australian 34.3% 34.7% A clean vegetableptype note with a cool herbaceous menthol-like subsidiary note; a green and grassy back note.

Seychelles 27.7% 40.2% A sharp diffusive clean grassy herbaceous note, with a fruity anisic subsidiary note and a very slightly camphoraceous back note.

Reunion (Australian grown) 3.4% 75.7% A sharp, if not somewhat dry, anisic note; the subsidiary notes were herbaceous with a slight sweet camphoraceous floral back note.

Different Major Chemical and Olfactory Profiles of Five Basil Oils

Hunter et al, 1996

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Preparation & Transfer

Area

Composting & Media Mixing Area

Seed Sowing Area

Seedling Standing Area

Perimeter Drain Recycling Tank

Seedling Standing Area

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Land Preparation

Leveling and contouring

Drainage

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Objective of Trials to Develop Agronomy Plan

Peppermint Management

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Wind drift

Farm/Plantation

Soil Floor

Sub-Soil

Fertilisers, herbicides, insecticides

Leaf & organic decompositions

Sub-terrainium water

Sun

Climate & Weather

Cultivation

Propagation

Processing

Products

Runoffs Surface water

Wastes Chemical residuals

Some wastes

recycled

Watershed runoffs onto farm/plantation

Atmosphere

Nitrogen, gasses, etc

Lakes Rivers Canals Oceans

Daylight hours UV radiation Temperature Humidity Rainfall

Conducive weather, or floods, droughts, etc

Regional Eco-System

A Farm/Plantation as a System

Other Farms

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o Location Topography Slope & drainage

o Climate – Sunshine hours Season

Rainfall Humidity Temperature UV Radiation (Micro-climate variation) o Soil

Soil Type pH Water holding qualities Humus Compactness Prior use Mineral residuals

o Genetic Material Plant physiology

Propagation characteristics o Agronomic

Practices Fertiliser/nutrients Irrigation Weed & pest control (also time intervals) Plant density

o Harvest & Extraction Practices Time & method of harvest Pre-harvest handling & preparation Method of Extraction Time of Extraction Length of Extraction

Factors Effecting Essential Oil Yield & Composition

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Yield and Chemical

Constituents of the

Essential Oil

Location

Topography

Slope & drainage

Climate

Sunshine hours

Seasons

Rainfall

Humidity

Temperature

UV radiation

Genetic Material

Collection

Purchase

Plant physiology

Propagation characteristics

Soil

Nutrients

pH

Drainage & water holding qualities

Humus

Compactness

Mineral residuals

Agronomic Practices

Soil type

Irrigation

Pest & weed control

Plant densities

Harvest & Extraction Practices

Time & method of harvest

Pre-harvest handling & preparation

Method of extraction Extraction time

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Essential Oil Development Research Project Gantt & Milestone ChartActivity/Research Objectives Q1 Q2 Q3 Q4 Q1 Q2 Q3 Q4

Genetic Material/Propagation1. Selection Initial selections2. Propagation trials Seed/vegetative3. Index selection Continuing ProgLand Preparation1. Clearing & Initial Preparation 10 Ha. Plot2. Level & slope3. Irrigation infrastructure Sprinkler systemPlanting/Maintenance Trials1. Trial row planting/spacings/plots Var. densities2. Nutrient trials NPK x 3levels3. Weeding trials Manual vs. chem.Harvesting Trials1. Harvest trials Manual2. Post harvest handling variations Packing density3. Mechanisation trials Mod. HarvesterExtraction Trials1. Distillation trial (part maturity) Stage sampling2. Distillation trial (full maturity) Ea. Rep. plots3. Large scale field distillation compare lab samp4. Variances of distillation times Yield/constituents5. Charge packing variance trials Yield varianceEconomic Appraisal Full castings

M1: Propagation Methodolgy

M2: Optimum spacing/density

M3: Optimum Nutrient levels

M4: Optimum weed control techniques

M5: Knowledge Yields & Biomass

M6: Knowledge composition/

Var. conditions

M7: Optimum Distil parameters

M8: Full economic study

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TrialsResponse of Major Constituents to Nitrogen

Ovens Valley, Victoria, Australia, 1991/92

Response of Major Constituents to Nitrogen (P. odoratum)

0

10

20

30

40

50

60

1 2 3 4 5 6

Nitrogen Level

%

1-decanol

1-dodecanol

decanal

dodecanal

Page 260: Essential oils presentation

Response of Yield to Nitrogen Level

Persicaria odoratum

Ovens Valley, Victoria, Austalia (91,92)

Response of Yield to Nitrogen Application

0

5

10

15

20

1 2 3 4 5 6

Nitrogen Level

Kg.

per

Ha.

Page 261: Essential oils presentation

Year 1 Year 2Year 3

Year 4Year 5

0.12 0.2 0.61.2 1.2

0.3 0.5

1.6

3.2 3.2

Diagram 2: Production yield of leaves per tree basis Yield of Dry Leaves (Kg) Yield of Fresh Leaves (Kg)

Biomass Production – Lemon Myrtle

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Essential Oil Technical Development

Planting

Harvesting Techniques

Extraction Techniques

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Planting & Maintenance

Post harvest practices

Irrigation

Methods

Planting

& Harvesting

Methods

Page 264: Essential oils presentation

Green/Biological/Natural Minimum interventionalist

Linear/Industrial/Chemical Wild Harvest

Biodynamic Farming

Organic Farming

Chemical Free

Reduced Pesticide

Low Input

Sustainable Minimum Till

Conventional

High Input Chemical Intensive

Natural Farming

Traditional Farming

Biological Farming

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THE OPERATION OF ORGANIC PHILOSOPHY (Fundamental Principals and Practices)

Objectives Soil Health & Fertility

Pest & Disease Management

Weed Management

Eco-system Biodiversity

Sustainability

Crop Rotation

Green Manure

Animal Manure

Cover Crops

Intercropping

Farmscape

Composting

Mulching

Buffers

Crop Rotation

Green Manure

Animal Manure

Cover Crops

Intercropping

Bio-control

Farmscape

Buffers

Crop Rotation

Green Manure

Animal Manure

Cover Crops

Mineral

supplements

Natural Fertilizers

Mulching

Composting

Tillage

Intercropping

Bio-control

Farmscape

Buffers

Crop Rotation

Green Manure

Cover Crops

Composting

Intercropping

Crop Diversity

Bio-control

Natural Pesticides

Sanitation

Tillage

Farmscape

Fire

Buffers

Crop Rotation

Cover Crops

Intercropping

Mulching

Flame Control

Natural Herbicide

Integrity

Buffers

Records

Certification

Improvement

Practices

Foundations

Site Selection

Conversion

Habitat Creation

Planning

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Farmscapping Barriers

Crops Boundaries Sanitation

Crop Diversity

Forecasting and Monitoring Climate & Weather Forecast, Pest Mapping, Setting

Thresholds, Monitoring, Record Keeping.

Evaluation and Decision Making

Cultural Controls Soil Health Crop Genetic Diversity

Planting times Harvest times Crop Rotations Intercropping

Mulches

Biological Controls Natural enemies (predators & parasites)

Mechanical Controls

Tillage Pest Traps Flaming or

Controlled Fire Flooding

Soil Solarization Clipping

Vacuuming Steam Sterilization

Genetic Controls Phonemes

Release of beneficial/

Predator Insects Microorganisms

Biological and Organic Pesticides Insecticidal soaps, Horticultural oils, Biorational Pesticides, Particle Film , Botanical Pesticides

Curative Methods

Preventative methods Organic Pest Control

(Bio-Intensive Integrated Pest Management)

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Overhead Sprinklers

Drip Irrigation Capillary Sand Beds

Installation cost Moderate Moderate/High High

Maintenance Low High High

Durability Excellent Low Moderate

Labour Low Moderate Low

Water Distribution Fair Good Good

Water Use Efficiency Poor, wasteful Good Good

Pump Requirement Large, high pressure Small, low pressure Small, low pressure

Water Volume Requirement

Large Small Small

Wind Influence Serious None None

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Climate Scenario Temperature

Solar Radiation Wind

Humidity Rainfall

Topography and Soil Characteristics

Water holding capacity Drainage

General topography

Physical System Type of System Manpower requirements &

availability Economics Efficiency (i.e., delivery, run-

off)

Windbreaks & other protective

measures

Plant & Crop Requirements

Crop factor Stage of growth Basic physiology

Irrigation Practices

Procedures and Timetables

Influenced by plant spacing & density and

life span

Rainfall Reliability

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X = 0.6 m • • • • • Y = 1.0 m • • • • • • • • • •

Plant Populations

• Regular plant spacings maximise biomass

• Climate, weather, soil fertility and Plant physiology influence

Plant spacings

• Selected plant spacings influenceBiomass, leaf size, fruit & rhizome

Size, stem growth.

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A D B C B A C D C B D A D C A B

Randomised Complete Block Design for a Field Experiment.

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1 A

2 B

3 A

1 B

2 A

3 B

3 B

1 B

1 A

2 B

3 A

2 A

2 A

2 B

3 B

1 B

3 A

1 A

A Factorial Arrangement of Treatments (Moisture (A)

and Nitrogen (B)) in a Randomised

Complete Block Design

• Fertilizer Application• Pesticide Application• Herbicide Application

• Irrigation• Spacings & plant populations

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Harvesting

Manual

Automated

Page 273: Essential oils presentation

Selected method often restricted by type of crop

Most herbaceous crops can be mowed

Many flowers must be hand picked

Innovative systems can be designed and developed

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Harvest Timing Critical for Some Crops (Mentha piperata)

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Harvesting Maturity

Desired Standard

Tea Tree (Melaleuca alternifolia)

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Selection of Extraction System

Scale up

Pilot

Plant

Large Systems

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Selected method often restricted by type of crop

Most herbaceous crops can be mowed

Many flowers must be hand picked

Innovative systems can be designed and developed

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Harvest Timing Critical for Some Crops (Mentha piperata)

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Harvesting Maturity

Desired Standard

Tea Tree (Melaleuca alternifolia)

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Influencing Factors Compound

characteristics (volatility/mol. Weight) Surrounding Material

Distillation

Historical

Solvent Extraction

Cold Pressing

Highly volatile terpenes

Compounds mixed with waxes, also lactones, esters etc. Low/medium volatility/stable

Influencing Factors Price vis. Market

Volume Plant cell structures

Field size Topography

Soil/field characteristics Part of plant (i.e.,

rhizome/leaf) Coppice

Automated harvest and distillation

system

Harvest and later load system

Manual harvesting

due to scale,

material, investment

Extensive large scale

farming High --- Low

Value

Specialties Distillation

Hydro

Steam

Destructive

Material Characteristics

Material Characteristics

Solubility in water

CO2 ‘Finer’

composition spectrum

Fractional Distillation

Individual aroma

compounds

Page 281: Essential oils presentation

A Basic Harvest to Distillation Flowchart for

Peppermint Oil

Determination of Harvest time (Sampling)

Mowing and leaving to wilt on field

10 tonne fresh herb per Ha. Fresh herb contains 80% moisture

Wilting Must wilt to 50% moisture level where ‘crisp and brittle’

Pick up with forage harvester Collect 6 tonne of dry herb

Deliver to Distillation system Must insure that herb is not bruised. Use cartridge or box to avoid too much handling

Distillation Volume of 4 m2 per tonne of herb. If single charge, yield 15kg oil If distillate ratio is 0.062/1 (oil/water), then 241.8 litres water required for distillation.

Assume 35 minutes distillation time, 10 minutes change over, 6.90 litres/minute steam rate per minute. 9 hours will handle 12 tonnes of dried herb in a vat of 4m3.

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Initial Parameters of Prototype Still diameter

Still height Steam source Steam type

Initial Distillation Conditions

Material preparation Packing density

Steam flow/temp/pressure Stop point of distillation

Initial Distillation Results Oil Constituents

Oil Yield Total oil verses time

Oil to water ratio

Determination of distillation Stop point

Determination of distillation Time (according to various

conditions)

Evaluate steam flow/temp/pressure to yield

Determination of steam flow/ Temp/pressure rates

Further modification of still

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Vapour Outlet Running into Corrugated Tank

Lid with Clamps Counterweight

Brick Compartment

Distillation Vat Welded Steel Mesh Bottom

Water

Corrugated Iron Condenser Tank Vapour Outlet Running into Corrugated Tank

Oil

“T” Pipe for Pressure

Equalisation

Separator Constant Level Tank

“Firebox” for wood fire

Page 284: Essential oils presentation

Boiler

Condensers

Separators

Box No. 1.

Box No. 2.

Boxes driven in by tractor and coupled up to steam

inlet and condenser.

Each box can be distilled on rotation or both together, governed by boiler

capacity.

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Standards

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Essential Oil Technical Development

Are Developed Techniques able to Create a

Viable and Economic Industry?

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Marketing Strategies

• Develop in Conjunction with International Company

- They will have their own strategy• Raw Material• Finished Product• Local Market• International Market

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Problems in developing new essential oils

(Specific problems to essential oils)1. Lack of industry knowledge2. Regulatory environment3. Lack of novelty4. Technical expertise5. Planting wrong chemotype6. Cost timeframe (first returns)7. Politics

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Table xx. Issues and problems Encountered in New Crop Development1 Issue Comments Focus Paradigm Requires focus on concept of food where present focus is on

cultivation This requires research This requires entrepreneurship approach Concepts not understood by farmers

Basic Research Needs access to worldwide data Requires availability of suitable germplasms Requires basic R&D to determine whether crop technically

suitable Requires basic R&D to determine if potential crop is

economically feasible Crop Management & Processing

Propagation technologies How to plant, cultivate & manage to crop How to harvest, extract, store and handle How to process How to package Transportation and storage

Marketing Infrastructure Require coordination of production with demand Require correct channels of distribution Requires a marketing strategy

Economies and Logistics Requires enough volume to economically transport and distribute

Requires solution to inconsistencies of quality and production Organisation Need committed people with strong leadership and trust Government Need to translate support into action

Need funding allocations Finance Very difficult to obtain funding for these projects Consumers Need efforts for education & promotion

1 Partly modified from Kee, T. B., Monoculture in Malaysia: Impacts, Potential Solutions, paper presented to Monocultures: Environmental and Social Effects and Sustainable Alternatives Conference, Songkhla, Thailand, 2-6 June, 1996.

Hunter (2006)

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Competencies Required During the Essential Oil Development Process

Screening & Bio-prospecting

Propagation & domestication or

introduction

Planting, cultivation & maintenance

Harvesting, Extraction and

wastage handling

New product development &

creation of value added products &

activities

Strategic, operations, finance and technical

management

Product & venture management

Marketing & commercialisation

Sustaining and growing the enterprise

(adapting & survival)

Output: Result/Performance, Sustainable and healthy enterprise or

a struggling and failing enterprise

Opportunity and technical competencies require:

Botany, ethno-botany, research ability, chemistry, bio-chemistry, analytical

chemistry. Market and specific technical product knowledge

Technical Competencies require: Plant physiology, micro-propagation, nursery

management, agronomics

Technical competencies require:

Bio-system engineering, Soil management,

entomology, plant nutrition, Agronomics, field

management, irrigation engineering

Technical competencies require:

Thermodynamics and plant physiology, heat transfer, distillation engineering,

chemistry, chemical engineering, agricultural

engineering, environmental engineering (waste

management)

Strategic, opportunity and technical

competencies require: Project management,

marketing management, chemistry, cosmetic

chemistry, perfumery/ flavour knowledge,

Packaging & design, manufacturing

engineering

Strategic, organizational, relationship opportunity competencies require:

Business strategic, industry knowledge, industry

networks, ability to raise finance, ability to plan, implement & adjust,

leadership, entrepreneurial

Strategic and organizational

competencies require: Administrative, financial management, technical management, strategic

management, personnel management, resources

management, entreprenuerial

Page 297: Essential oils presentation

Regulatory Requirements

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SCCP Responsibility• SCCP (The Scientific Committee on Consumer Products –

previously called the SCCNFP: Scientific Committee on Cosmetic & Non Food Products) is an expert committee set up under the EC Health and Consumer Protection DG. SCCP reports to the EC H&CP Scientific Steering Committee on matters relevant to the EC countries in their defined area. The committee comprises a diverse range of experts in toxicology from industry, the medical fields and tertiary institutions.

• SCCP/SCCNFP have provided scientific opinions on a wide range of ingredients used in personal care products including actives & excipients for oral care, haircare and skincare products.

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Cosmetic Products in EU are regulated by Directive 76/768/EEC and Amendments

Section 7(a) of 76/768/EEC states:- “Assessment of the safety for human

health of the finished product. To that end that manufacturer shall take into consideration the general toxicological profile of the ingredient, its chemical structure and its level of exposure”.

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Areas of Raw Material Review by SCCP

Criteria Protocol Comments2. GeneralNomenclaturePurityPhysical properties-MP-BP-Density-Rel. Vap. Dens-VP-Log PoW-Solubility

Function

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Criteria Protocol Comments

3.3.1 Acute Toxicity-Acute Oral-Acute Dermal-Acute Inhalation

OECD 425OECD 402OECD 403

US$3000US$5000US$10,000

3.3.2 Irritation/Corrosivity-Skin Irritation

-Mucous Membrane

-Skin Sensitisation

Irritation: OECD 404 orOECD 431 (Episkin)Draize OECD 405

Murine Lymph assay OECD 429 orGuinea Pig OECD 406

US$5000

US$5000

US$10,000

US$12,000

3.3.4 Dermal/Percutaneous Absorption OECD 428 Not possible to do in vivo on essential oil.US$50,000

3.3.5 Repeat Dose Toxicity-Repeat Dose oral/dermal/inhalation (28 day)-Subchronic 90 day oral/dermal/inhalation-Chronic (>12 months)

OECD 410OECD 411OECD 452

US$50,000US$150,000US$550,000

Areas of Raw Material Review by SCCP

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Criteria Protocol Comments

3.3.6 Mutagenicity/Genotoxicity

Ames US$4000Cannot be effectively done on antimicrobial compounds

3.3.7 Carcinogenicity OECD 453 US$1,200,000 – 3 years duration

3.3.8 Reproductive Toxicity-Two Generation Reproduction Toxicity- Teratogenicity

OECD 416OECD 414

US$450,000US$100,000

3.3.9 Toxicokinetics Complex for essential oil

3.3.10 Photo induced Toxicity- Phototoxicity

3T3 NRU US$3000

3.3.11 Human Data Case studies of poisonings, allergic reactions etc

Areas of Raw Material Review by SCCP

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Total Cost for SCCP Dossier

~ US$2,500,000

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Biocidal Products Directive

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BPD History• Proposed by EC in 1993.• Adapted by EC and European Parliament

on 16.2.1998.• Published 24.4.1998.• Enacted 14.5.1998.• Implemented:-

– EU States 14.5.2000.– New Member states : date of accession

• Transition period 10 years (to 14.5.2010).

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BPD Objectives

• High level of protection of human health and environment.

• Harmonisation of requirements for authorisation of biocides.

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What Are Biocidal Products?

• Active substances and preparations containing one or more active substances.

• Put up in a form in which they are supplied to the user . . .

• Intended to destroy, deter, render harmless, prevent the action of or exert a controlling influence on any harmful organism . . .

• By chemical or biological means

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Biocidal Product TypesMAIN GROUP 1: DISINFECTANTS & GENERAL BIOCIAL PRODUCTS

• Product-type 1: Human hygiene biocidal products

• Product-type 2: Private Area and public health are disinfectants and other biocidal products

• Product-type 3: Veterinary hygiene biocidal products

• Product-type 4: Food and feed area disinfectants

• Product-type 5: Drinking water disinfectants

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MAIN GROUP 2: PRESERVATIVES

• Product-type 6: In-can preservatives

• Product-type 7: Film preservatives

• Product-type 8: Wood preservatives

• Product-type 9: Fibre, leather, rubber and polymerised materials preservatives

• Product-type 10: Masonry preservatives

• Product-type 11: Preservatives for liquid-cooling and processing systems

• Product-type 12: Slimicides

• Product-type 13: Metalworking-fluid preservatives

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MAIN GROUP 3: PEST CONTROL

• Product-type 14: Rodenticides

• Product-type 15: Avicides

• Product-type 16: Molluscicides

• Product-type 17: Piscicides

• Product-type 18: Insecticides, acaricides and products to control other arthropods

• Product-type 19: Repellents and attractants

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MAIN GROUP 4: OTHER BIOCIDAL PRODUCTS

• Product-type 20: Preservatives for food or feedstocks

• Product-type 21: Antifouling products

• Product-type 22: Embalming and taxidermist fluids

• Product-type 23: Control of other vertebrates

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What Is Not A Biocide?

• Plant protection product.• Medicine.• Veterinary medicines • Medical devices• Cosmetic • Food additive

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What Are Active Substances?

• A substance or micro organism including a virus or a fungus . . .

• Having general or specific action on or against harmful organism.

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What Are Harmful Organisms?

Any organism which has:-• An unwanted presence or a determined

effect.• For humans, their attributes or the

products they use or produce or for animals or for their environment.

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Approval Process

• Active substance must be listed in “Annex 1”.

• The product is:-• Sufficiently effective• No unacceptable effects on target organisms • No unacceptable effects on human or animal

health• No unacceptable effects on the environment

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Acceptance Arrangements

• Existing active substances:-• Contained in biocidal products on the market in EU

area before May 14, 2000• Subject to 10 year Review Program• May stay on market until EU decision is made

• New active substances:-• May not be used in EU before full review

• New EU member states:-• Treated as new existing substances

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BPD Data Requirements

All data requirements we laid out in annexes II, III and IV of the Directive 98/8/EC

• Annex part A is for active substances• Annex part B is for biocidal products

containing them

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INFORMATION GATHERING

EFFECTS ASSESSMENT

•Hazard identification•Dose (concentration) – response (effect) Assessment

EXPOSURE ASSESSMENT

•Human exposure assessment (Workers, consumers, via the environment)•Environmental exposure assessment(water, soil, air)

RISK CHARACTERISATION

HUMAN HEALTH

Evaluation of effects data and comparison withexposure data

ENVIRONMENT

Evaluation of effects data and comparison withexposure data

OUTCOME OF RISK ASSESSMENTOne or more of the following conclusions/results

i) Noimmediate concernNo need toconsideragainbefore nexttonnagetrigger

ii) ConcernDefinefurtherinformationneeds andrequests atnexttonnagetrigger

iii) ConcernDefine furtherinformationneeds andseekimmediately

iv) Concernimmediatelymakerecommen-dations forriskdeduction

i) Need forfurtherinformationand/ortesting

ii) At presentno need forfurtherinformationand/ortesting andno need forriskreductionmeasures

iii) Need forlimiting therisks

Recommen-dation of aninclusion ofthe activesubstance inAnnex I, IAor IB

Recommen-dation of anon-inclusion ofthe activesubstance inAnnex I, IAor IB

NEW SUBSTANCES EXISTING SUBSTANCES BIOCIDES

Page 319: Essential oils presentation

• Member states designated Rapporteurs – these are responsible for data review in specific categories

• Charges:-Rapporteurs €Belgium 50,000Denmark 175,000Germany 75 – 125,000Netherlands to 350,000Austria 200 – 220,000

• Individual states may impose additional levies for products registered (e.g. UK ~ US$1000 p.a.)

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Rapporteur Review Data

• Review ~ 15 months• Other MS have 3 months for comment

Data is owned by the entity compiling the dossier

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BPD Data RequestsGeneral:-• Substance identification (CAS, IUPAC, formula etc)• Substance information – colour, purity, physical properties• Spectra• Synonyms and trade names• Impurities• Additives• Quantity used in EU• Labelling• Hazard classification and labelling• Usage pattern – including application, types of use, volume per

application, recovery, industry types• Manufacturing method• Existing exposure restriction and limits• Hazards• Degradation products

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Physical & Chemical Properties• MP• BP• VP• Viscosity• Density• Granulometry• Partition coefficient• Solubility in different media• Surface Tension• Flash point, flammability, explosivity • Oxidising properties• Dissociation constant

Page 323: Essential oils presentation

Environmental Fate

• Photodegradation• Stability in water and soil• Monitoring data• Field studies• Transport between environmental compartments• Actual use degradation model• Biodegradation, BOD/COD• Bioaccumulation

Page 324: Essential oils presentation

Ecotoxicity • Acute toxicity to:-

• Fish• Aquatic invertebrates • Aquatic plants (e.g. algae)• Micro-organisms

• Chronic toxicity to:-• Fish• Aquatic invertebrates

• Toxicity to:-• Sediment dwelling organisms• Terrestrial plants• Soil dwelling organisms• Other non mammalian terrestrial species

• Biotransformation and Kinetics

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Toxicity• Acute oral• Acute inhalation• Acute dermal• Skin irritation• Eye irritation• Sensitisation• Repeat dose toxicity• Genetic toxicity in vitro• Genetic toxicity in vivo• Carcinogenicity • Toxicity to fertility• Developmental toxicity/teratogenicity • Exposure experience

Page 326: Essential oils presentation

Effect Against Target Organism

• Function• Effects on organisms to be controlled• Organisms to be protected• User• Resistance

End point summary Risk Assessment

Page 327: Essential oils presentation

Total Cost for BPD Dossier Compliance

~ US$4 million+

Page 328: Essential oils presentation

REACH

Registration, Evaluation and Authorisation of Chemicals

Page 329: Essential oils presentation

Objectives at REACH• Protection of human health and the environment• Maintenance and enhancement of the

competitiveness of the EU chemical industry• Prevention of fragmentation of the internal

market• Increased transparency• Integration with international efforts • Promotion of non-animal testing• Conformity with EU international obligations

under the WTO

Page 330: Essential oils presentation

Objectives at REACH

EU:- “Regulation proposed by the commission on

29 October 2003 achieves all the objectives identified in the White Paper and this represents a model of sustainable development by pursuing objectives of the three pillars:-

– Economic (industrial [ ])– Social (health protection and jobs)– Environment

Page 331: Essential oils presentation

Tests Required for Original REACH Registration

A) Greater than 1MT p.a. Melting/freezing pointBoiling pointRelative densityVapour pressureSurface tensionWater solubility (or water extractivity for

polymers)n-Octanol-water partition coefficientFlash point or flammabilityExplosivityAuto-flammabilityOxidising propertiesGranulometrySkin irritation or corrosivity evaluation or in

vitro testsEye irritation evaluation or in vitro testSkin sensitisation evaluation or local lymph node

assayAmes testIn vitro chromosome aberration testAcute Daphnia toxicityAlgal growth testReady biodegradation

Deadline for Registration 10 years from REACH enacting legislation

Page 332: Essential oils presentation

Tests Required for Original REACH Registration

B) Greater than 10MT p.a. Light-stability for polymersLong-term extractivity for polymersSkin irritation (unless classified from Annex V data)Eye irritation (unless classified from Annex V data)In vitro gene mutation assayAcute oral toxicityAcute inhalation or dermal toxicity28-day (or 90-day) repeat-dose study in the rat (normally oral exposure)Developmental toxicity screening study (OECD 421)Developmental toxicity studyToxicokinetics assessment (a prediction based on the available data)Acute fish toxicityActivated sludge respiration inhibition testHydrolysis testAdsorption/desorption screening testPlus A) requirements

Deadline for Registration 6 years from REACH enacting legislation

Page 333: Essential oils presentation

Tests Required for Original REACH Registration

C) Greater than 100MT p.a. Stability in organic solvents and identification of degradantsDissociation constantViscosityReactivity to container materialIn vitro Mutagenicity studies28-day or 90-day repeat-dose study in the rat (if not part of the Annex VI data)Developmental toxicity studies in two species (if not part of the Annex VI data)Two-generation fertility study in the rat (if there are adverse findings from the 28-day or 90-day studies)21-day Daphnia reproduction study Chronic fish toxicity studySimulation test on the ultimate degradation in surface waterSoil simulation testSediment simulation testFish bioaccumulation study (unless there is a low predicted bioaccumulation potential, e.g. from Log PoW < 3)Further adsorption/desorption study14-day earthworm toxicityStudy of the effects on soil micro-organisms Short-term toxicity to plants Plus A) and B) requirements

Deadline for Registration 3 years from REACH enacting legislation

Page 334: Essential oils presentation

Manufacturer/Importer of Substances

Outside scope of REACH < one tonne per annum

Under customs supervision Medical Product

Polymer Material for food additive

“Natural” Substance exemption > one tonne per annum

Not on “Natural” Exceptions (Annex V)

New Substance Substance issued with opinion about potential

hazard

No Registration

Manufacturer/Importer prepares dossier

Dossier Evaluation 1. For hazardous

properties 2. possesses

unacceptable risks

Restrictions made by the Commission

Authorisation

Risk Assessment: Industry says can adequately control risks: Authorise/not allow

authorisation or restrict Industry says cannot adequately control risks:

Socio-economic benefits and substitutes evaluated Authorised if benefits greater than risk/no authorisation if

benefits too small for risks

If there are suspicion of

risks

REACH Process Registration, Evaluation &

Authorisation of Chemicals

Page 335: Essential oils presentation

Risk Assessment

Hazard Identification Hazard Characterization Exposure Assessment Risk Characteristics

Risk Management

Risk Evaluation Option Assessment Option Implementation Monitoring and Review

Risk Communication Improve quality of consumer information To facilitate healthier food choice

Declaration of GMO Materials Nutritional Information Eliminate Misinformation Scientifically Substantiate

Claims

Page 336: Essential oils presentation

F ig u re 7 .7 . S u m m a ry o f th e In te rn a tio n a l R e g u la to ry P ro c es s (E U , U n ite d S ta tes , Ja pa n , A us tra lia , N e w Z e a la n d , A S E A N )

Essential Oils For:

Flavours

Fragrances

Cosmetics

Agro-

chemicals

United States

1. Flavours: Permitted ingredients on GRAS list, (new substances safety evaluation)

2. Perfumes: Self regulation but follow FMA fragrance material database

3. Cosmetics: Voluntary notification, adhere to industry lists

4. Pesticides: Pre-registration and evaluation required

J apan 1. Flavours: Adhere to

positive list, new product notification

2. Perfum es: adherence to positive, controlled and negative lists

3. Cosmetics: adherence to positive, controlled and negative lists, registration for quasi-drugs

4. Pesticides: Pre-market, assessment, evaluation & registration

Australia and New Zealand

1. Flavours: Under a joint Authority with a positive list with use restrictions 2. Perfumes: New ingredients require registration under NI CNAS 3. Cosmetics: Registration under NI CNAS. Cosmetics with therapeutic claims

under TGA, New Zealand under HSNO 4. Pesticides: Evaluation for risk & registration

European Union

1. Flavours: Regulated under a positive list and full risk management during production and supply chain required.

2. Perfum es: Material must be on inventory list or require a notification and assessment by REACH

3. Cosmetics: Materials must be on REACH inventory, under control SCCP, new cosmetics require notification and adherence to positive, restricted and prohibited lists

4. Biocidal Products: All materials must be approved for use for biocidal products and on REACH inventory

ASEAN 1. Flavours: Various levels of control from

pre-registration, adherence to positive and restrictive lists, licencing of manufacturers

2. Perfum es: Degree of self regulation, GMP and licensing in some jurisdictions

3. Cosmetics: Almost total pre-registration in all jurisdictions, cosmetics with therapeutic claims treated as drugs.

4. Pesticides: Evaluation and pre-registration and licensing of manufacturers in all jurisdictions

Page 337: Essential oils presentation

Derelict vanilla plantation, Seychelles.

EU/IFRA policy will repeat similar scenes.

Page 338: Essential oils presentation

Old clove distillation works, Zanzibar before eugenol was classified as R36-

43.Subsequently became derelict!

Page 339: Essential oils presentation
Page 340: Essential oils presentation

Top Twenty Essential Oils Produced in the WorldEssential Oil Botanical Name Volume

(Tonnes) Under Threat Cosmetics

Under Threat Biocides

Under threat Fragrance

Orange Citrus sinensis 26000 X X

Cornmint Mentha Arvensis 4300

Eucalyptus Euc. globulus 3728 X X X

Citronella Cym winterianus 2830 X X X

Peppermint Mentha piperita 2367

Lemon Citrus limon 2158 X X

Euc. Citriodora Eucalyptus citriodora 2092 X X X

Clove Leaf Syzygium aromaticum 1915 X X X

Cedarwood (US) Juniperus virginiana 1640

Litsea cubeba Litsea cubeba 1005 X X

Sassafras (Brazil) Ocotea pretiosa 1000 X X

Lime Citrus aurantifolia 973 X X

Spearmint Mentha spicata 851

Cedarwood (China) Chamaecyparis funebris 800

Lavandin Lavandula intermedia 768 X X

Sassafras (China) Cinnamomum micranthum 750 X X

Camphor Cinnamomum camphora 725

Coriander Coriandrum sativum 710

Grapefruit Citrus paradisi 694 X X

Patchouli Pogostemom cablin 563 X X

Page 341: Essential oils presentation

Flavour & Fragrance House Operations

Page 342: Essential oils presentation

Perfume Brief

Type of product

Market Positioning

Price range

Dosage

Expectations

Cost range

Product manufacturing methods

Shelf life

Lead time

Page 343: Essential oils presentation

Fragrance Attributes

Features BenefitsSignal

Attributes

BaseCover

Impact

Odour Profile

MalodourCounteractant

Substantivity

IngredientsEg essential

oils

Tangible

Benefits

Pleasant

Fragrance

Lasting

Fragrance

Offensive

Odour

Cover

Intangible

Benefits

Romance

Well-Being

Caring

Security

Lifestyle

Association

Strength

Performance

Variant

Indicator of Use

Life Status

Freshness

Structure of Attributes for a Fragrance in a Product

Page 344: Essential oils presentation

Actualisation (Artist)

Self-fulfillment. Personal growth

Fine Fragrances

Soap Rice

Fresh Vegetables

Fresh Vegetables (Organic)

Books

Travel & Vacations

Luxury Cars Nutraceuticals & Herbs

Most Household Cleaning Products

Car Air Fresheners

Fine Dinning and Processed Foods

Study after retirement

Aromatherapy Products

Fashion Clothes (i.e., Jeans)

Water Purifiers

Chewing Gum

Physiological (Hunter) Basic biologfical needs – food, water air

Safety (Farmer) Home, security and stability

Social (Worker) Family, relationships,

workgroups

Esteem (Executive)

Achievement, Prestige, Status

Page 345: Essential oils presentation

The Perfume Development

Fragrance Matching

New Fragrance according to customer

requirement

Page 346: Essential oils presentation

Testing in Application

Test & Evaluation

Page 347: Essential oils presentation

Perfume Compounding

Page 348: Essential oils presentation

QA and Tracking

Page 349: Essential oils presentation

Product Manufacture

Page 350: Essential oils presentation

Organic Farming

Page 351: Essential oils presentation

Approximate Size of the World Organic Market 2008 (USD Billion) Fruit &

Vegetables, 12.9, 35%

Meat and Poultry, 1.5,

4%Dairy, 3.6, 10%

Bread & Grains, 4.5,

12%

Beverages, 3.6, 10%

Cosmetics, 6.5, 18%

Processed Foods, 3.9,

11%

Page 352: Essential oils presentation

Comparison of the Industrial and Biological Models of Agriculture

Industrial Model Community Model

Energy Intensive Information Intensive

Linear Process Cyclical Processes

Farm as a Factory Farm as an Ecosystem

Enterprise Separation Enterprise Integration

Single Enterprise Many Enterprises

Monoculture Diversity of Plants and Animals

Low-Value Products Higher Value Products

Single Use Equipment Multiple Use Equipment

Passive Marketing Active Marketing

Page 353: Essential oils presentation

Certification and Value

Organic Products have 3 times the value as conventional crops

Page 354: Essential oils presentation

Some Essential Oil Profiles

Page 355: Essential oils presentation

Rose Oil (Rosa damascena)

Rose alcohols, methyleugenol, beta-damascenone and (-)-cis-rose oxide

Produced in Bulgaria, Turkey, Morocco, Thailand, India, China

major constituents: (-)-citronellol, certain specific paraffines, geraniol and nerol, phenethyl alcohol, and methyleugenol. Others (-)-cis-rose oxide, beta-damascenone, beta-ionone, 1-p-menthen-9-al, and rose furan (340 other constituents)

Method of Extraction: Hydro-distillation of flowers

Page 356: Essential oils presentation

Rosemary Oil (Rosmarinus officinalis)

(+)-borneol, (+)-bornyl acetate, (+)-camphor, (+)-alpha-terpineol, (+)-verbenone and 1,8-cineole

Method of Extraction: Steam distillation of flowering tops

Produced in Spain, Morocco and Tunisia

Major Constituents:(+)-Borneol, (+)-verbenone ,(+)-Alpha-pinene, (+)-bornyl acetate, (+)-camphor and 1,8-cineole

Page 357: Essential oils presentation

Acacia Absolute (Acacia decurrens var. dealbata (Mimosaceae)

2-hydroxyacetophenone

Origin: Eastern Australia

Major Constituents: 2-hydroxyacetophenone

Method of Extraction: Solvent extraction

Page 358: Essential oils presentation

Agarwood (Aquilaria agallocha)

karanones in Agarwood

Origin: Western Australia, Indonesia, Thailand, Laos

Constituents: multitude of oxygenated sesquiterpenes

Method of Extraction: infect with a mould, react by producing an aromatic resin, oil extracted by supercritical CO2 from the oleoresin

Page 359: Essential oils presentation

Ambrette seed OilAbelmoschus moschatus

5(Z)-tetradecen-14-olide ambrettolide

Major Constituents: macrocyclic musks 5(Z)-tetradecen-14-olide and 7(Z)-hexadecen-16-olide, also called ambrettolide

Page 360: Essential oils presentation

Basil Oil Ocimum basilicum

estragol, eugenol, methyleugenol and methyl cinnamate

linalool, 1,8-cineole and caryophyllene

Major constituents: linalool and methylchavicol (estragol), eugenol, methyleugenol, methyl cinnamate, 1,8-cineole, caryophyllene

Extraction method: Steam Distillation

Page 361: Essential oils presentation

Bay Leaf Oil Pimenta racemosa

chavicol, eugenol and myrcene

Main Constituents: chavicol, eugenol and myrcene

Method of Extraction: Steam Distillation

Origin: West Indies

Page 362: Essential oils presentation

Beeswax Absolute

phenylacetic acid and methyl phenylacetate

Main Constituents: phenylacetic acid and methyl phenylacetate and lower esters (multitude of other odourants)

Method of extraction: extraction of the beeswax with ethanol followed by evaporation, yielding around 1 % of absolute

useful for creating honeyed flower nuances in luxury perfumes

Page 363: Essential oils presentation

Benzoin ResinStyrax benzoin, S. tonkinensis

coniferyl benzoate and cinnamyl cinnamate

Produced mainly in Asiatic countries such as Indonesia, Sumatra, Java, Laos, Thailand and Vietnam. Two varieties of benzoin gums exist in the trade: benzoin gum Siam from S. tonkinensis and benzoin gum Sumatra from S. benzoin

coniferyl benzoate (65-75 %), p-coumaryl benzoate (10-15 %), cinnamyl cinnamate (styracine) (0.5-6%) , benzoic acid (12 %), siaresinolic acid (6 %) and vanillin (0.3 %).Cinnamyl cinnamate has a mild, soft and very tenacious balsamic-floral odour. However, the odour of the balsam is influenced by minor amounts of volatile constituents like benzaldehyde and methyl benzoate. Benzoin gum Sumatra is richer in cinnamates, cinnamic acid and styrene

Method of extraction: Distillation

Page 364: Essential oils presentation

Buchu leaf OilAgathosma betulina

'sulphur-terpenoids'from buchu leaf

Origin: South Africa

Extraction: Steam distillation of the leaves

Major Constituents:menthone and isomenthone, diosphenol, limonene, pulegone and isopulegone. constituents responsible for the characteristic black currant odour are p-menthane-8-thiol-3-one (mercapto-menthone) and its S-acetate (ca. 3 %).

Page 365: Essential oils presentation

Boronia Absolute Boronia megastigma

examples of boronia odorants derived from carotene:beta-ionone, 3a-hydroxymegastigm-7(E)-ene-9-one

and megastigm-7(E)-ene-3,9-dione

Production: Tasmania, Australia

Method of Extraction: The flowers are extracted with petroleum ether, yielding a waxy concentrate after evaporation. The concentrate is then extracted with alcohol, chilled, filtered and finally evaporated at reduced pressure (Rota-Vapor).

Page 366: Essential oils presentation

Coriander Oil Coriandrum sativum

2(E)-decenal and 2(E)-dodecenal

(+)-linalool

Main constituents: The green leaves have a powerful and penetrating, 'aldehydic' aroma dominated by 2-alkenals, e.g. 2(E)-decenal and 2(E)-dodecenal, (+)-linalool

Method of Extraction: Steam Distillation

Page 367: Essential oils presentation

Cedarwood Oil (Cedrus atlantica)

atlantone cedrol and cedrene

Origin: USA and China

Main Constituents: 30 % of (+)-cedrol, alpha-cedrene and other sesquiterpenes

used for the synthesis of advanced odorants of the 'precious-woody' and ambery type

Page 368: Essential oils presentation

Michellia Champaca

Origin: India and China (some in Thailand)

methyl benzoate and (E,E)-alpha-farnesenefrom champak headspace

Identified Constituents: Methyl benzoate, phenethyl alcohol, phenylacetonitrile, indole and methyl anthranilate, along with sesquiterpenes, e.g. (E,E)-alpha-farnesene, constituted the body of the headspace. Moreover, ionones, e.g. dihydro-beta-ionone, (Z)-methyl-epi-jasmonate, a number of aromatic esters, etc., have been identified in extracts from the flowers

Method of extraction: Solvent Extraction

Page 369: Essential oils presentation

Clove Oil (Syzygium aromaticum) Bud

eugenol, eugenyl acetate caryophyllene

Origin: Madagascar, Zanzibar and Indonesia (Limited)

The fragrant buds contain about 20 % essential oil. Eugenol (ca. 80 %), eugenyl acetate and caryophyllene are the major constituents.

Extraction Method: Steam Distillation

Page 370: Essential oils presentation

Lavender Oil (Lavandula angustifolia)

(-)-linalool, (-)-linalyl acetate

(-)-lavandulol and (-)-lavandulyl acetate

True lavender oil is steam distilled from the freshly cut flowering tops and stalks of Lavandula angustifolia

The classical cultivation area is in the Haute Provence region in France at an altitude of 600-1500 m, where this species grows naturally. The distillation takes place at small local distilleries, collectively producing around 100 t yearly. Today, however, L. angustifolia is grown for oil production in several countries.

(-)-(R)-linalool (35 %) and its acetate (40 %) are the most important constituents of lavender oil. (-)-(R)-lavandulol and its acetate are characteristic, as well as 1-octen-3-yl acetate. More than 300 components have been identified, among them a number of sesquiterpenoids and a multitude of odour-determining trace constituents. Coumarin makes itself conspicuous in particular from the withered flowers

Page 371: Essential oils presentation

Lemon Oil (Citrus limon)

citral3,7-dimethyl-2(E),6-

octadienal

(+)-limonene

Lemons are cultivated primarily for their juice. Italy is one of the major

exporters.

Lemon juice is rich in citric acid and vitamin C (ascorbic acid) and is used in cooking for its freshness and sourness. However, the characteristic lemonflavour is due to the essential oil of the peel and is dominated by the aldehyde citral (geranial + neral, ~ 5 %) combined with smaller amounts of linear aliphatic aldehydes (C7-C13). As with most citrus oils, (+)-limonene is by far the major component (~ 65 %)

Method of extraction: Expression or steam distillation

Page 372: Essential oils presentation

Lemongrass Oil (Cymbopogon citratus)

citralgeranial : neral = 4 : 1

main constituent of lemongrass oil is citral (75 %), present as a 4:1 mixture of geranial, 3,7-dimethyl-2(E),6-octadienal, and neral, 3,7-dimethyl-2(Z),6-octadienal

The development of newer synthetic methods in terpene chemistry has made these oils less important

Page 373: Essential oils presentation

Ginger Oil (Zingiber officinale)

citral, beta-sesquiphellandrene, zingeberene, and gingerols/shogaols

The fresh ginger rhizome is a versatile ingredient of thefar eastern cuisine, and is now commonly used in most of the world. Its flavour is lemony-balsamic and its taste is medium hot.The lemony character of fresh ginger is due to citral. Major components of the essential oil are the sesquiterpenes beta-sesquiphellandrene and zingiberene. The 'sharp' constituents, causing the burning sensation on the mucous membranes, are substituted phenols (gingerols/shogaols)

Extraction Method: Steam DistillationOrigin: Indonesia, India, Sri Lanka, China

Page 374: Essential oils presentation

Massoia Bark Oil (Cryptocarya massoy)

Origin: New Guinea and Irian Jaya Highlands

Massoia bark has a sweet, coconut-like aroma and issteam distilled to yield massoia bark oil. The bark is obtained by cutting the tree at the base, making circular incisions at one meter intervals, lifting the bark off and allowing it to dry. Each tree yields on average 65 kg of air dried bark.

C-10 massoia lactone C-12 massoia lactone

Extraction: hydro-distillation of the bark, heartwoodand fruits of the massoia tree afford pale yellow-coloured oils in 0.7, 1.2 and 1.0 % yields, respectively

Constituents: C-10 massoia lactone, or 5,6-dihydro-6-pentyl-2H-pyran-2-one, (65-68 %), and the C-12 massoia lactone, or 5,6-dihydro-6-heptyl-2H-pyran-2-one, (17-28 %), while the major fruit oil constituent is benzyl benzoate (68%)

Page 375: Essential oils presentation

Nutmeg (mace) Oil (Myristica fragrans)

(+)-sabinene, (+)-1-terpinen-4-ol

safrole, myristicin and elemicin

Oil consisting of approximately 90 % terpenes, with sabinene, alpha- and beta-pinene, and 1-terpinen-4-ol as major components. However, a number of phenol ethers play a decisive role for the overall fragrance, three of them are above.

Production: Indonesia

Extraction Method: Hydro Distillation

Page 376: Essential oils presentation

Pandanus Oil (Pandanus odoratissimus)

phenethyl methyl etherpandanol

Origin: native of South East Asia and is much cultivated on the Indian East Coast

The flowers are hydro-distilled to yield a 'kewda attar

phenethyl methyl ether (pandanol) (38 %), together with terpinen-4-ol (19 %), alpha-terpineol (8 %) and phenethyl alcohol (7 %) [79]. Phenethyl alcohol and its derivatives are common odorants in flowers

Page 377: Essential oils presentation

Orange Oil Sweet (Citrus sinensis)

(all-E)-alpha-sinensal2,6,10-trimethyl-2(E),6(E),9(E),

11-dodecatetraenal (+)-limonene

Major Contstituents: (+)-limonene is the major component, but the distinctive fresh sweetness from the orange peel is mainly due to the sesquiterpene aldehyde sinensal, especially the isomer (all-E)-alpha-sinensal, whose odour detection threshold is as low as 0.05 ppb.

Orange oil, obtained by cold-pressing of the peels, is made in several countries in conjunction with orange juice production.

Page 378: Essential oils presentation

Patchouli Oil (Pogostemon cablin)

(-)-patchoulol andnorpatchoulenol

Obtained by steam distillation under pressure or CO2-extraction of the dried leaves

Patchouli is mostly grown in Indonesia

There are no synthetic equivalents of the patchouli scent.

Main Constituents: (-)-patchoulol (30-40 %). However, it is maintained that norpatchoulenol, present in only 0.3-0.4 %, is playing a principal part in the overall odour picture.

Page 379: Essential oils presentation

Pepper Oil (Piper nigrum)

(+)-3-carene piperine

Main producer: Sarawak, Malaysia

Main Constituents: The pepper seeds contain avolatile oil and the non-volatile compound piperine, the latter being responsible for the burning effect on the mucous membranes.Also, cyclic monoterpenes with 3-carene as the major component (around 35 %). Moreover, a number of hitherto unidentifiedsesquiterpenes probably contribute to its character.

Extraction: Steam Distillation of the crushed seeds

Page 380: Essential oils presentation

Peppermint Oil (Mentha piperita)

(-)-menthol, (-)-menthyl acetate,(-)-menthone and (+)-menthofurane

Origin: USA, China, India and Australia

The main component of peppermint oil is (-)-menthol (ca. 50 %) followed by (-)-menthone (ca. 20 %) and(-)-menthyl acetate (ca. 10 %). A characteristic of peppermint oil is the high content of (+)-menthofurane (ca. 3 %, sometimes much higher) and a number of specific sesquiterpenes, one of them viridiflorol.

Extraction Method: Steam Distillation

Page 381: Essential oils presentation

Petitgrain Oil (Citrus aurantium)

(-)-linalyl acetate

(-)-linalool

trace constituents from petitgrain oil

Method of Extraction: Steam distillation of the leaves

(-)-Linalyl acetate and (-)-linalool in the proportion 2:1 make up about 80 % of the oil, but a great number of trace constituents, a few of which are shown above, contribute to its special character

Azzaro pour Homme (Azzaro 1978).

Origin: Paraguay

Page 382: Essential oils presentation

Shitake Mushrooms (Lentinus edodes)

lenthionine

Main Flavour Constituent: 1,2,3,5,6-pentathiepane, called lenthionine

Page 383: Essential oils presentation

Star Anise (Illicium verum)

(E)-anethole

shikimic acid

anisatin

Vietnam and southern China

Main component (80-90 %) is (E)-anethole and

(E)-anethole

Steam distillation

Page 384: Essential oils presentation

Vanilla (Vanilla planifolia)

vanillin and a vanilla vitispirane fruits ('beans' or 'pods') are harvestedbefore they ripen, but the powerful vanilla flavour only develops after a several months of special curing.

The beans are spread in the sun in the morning, then covered and kept enclosed during the night. After a while the green beans turn brown, and the glycosidically bound vanillin is slowly liberated.

Vanillin, or 4-hydroxy-3-methoxybenzaldehyde, is by far the major odorant from vanilla, but several additional aroma compounds are formed during the curing process (more than 100 are identified). Guaicol, creosol, acetovanillone, vanillyl alcohol and methyl salicylate seem to be of importance, together with vitispiranes

Production: West Indies, Madagascar and Bali

Page 385: Essential oils presentation

Ylang Ylang (Cananga odorata)

benzyl acetate (ca. 25 %), p-cresyl methyl ether (ca. 20 %), methyl benzoate (ca. 5 %), methyl salicylate, cinnamyl acetate, (-)-linalool (ca. 15 %), geranyl acetate (ca. 10 %), farnesyl acetate (ca. 3 %), as well as a number of other sesquiterpenes and their oxygenated derivatives, e.g. muurolol T (ca. 2 %)

Extraction Method: Steam distillation of the flowers

Origin: Indonesia, Madagascar

Page 386: Essential oils presentation

Jasmine Absolute (Jasminum grandiflorum)

(-)-jasmine lactone, (Z)-jasmone, (-)- and (-)-epi-methyl jasmonate.

benzyl acetate, p-cresol and indole.

J. sambac

(Z)-3,4-epoxyhex-1-yl acetate andtrans-2-ethyl-3-acetoxy-tetrahydrofurane from

Arabian jasmine, J. sambac

Egypt is the main producer, but demand islowering. In recent years reconstructed oils have been available, almost identical with the natural product, but at a much lower prize.

Extraction Method: Solvent extraction

Page 387: Essential oils presentation

Melaleuca bracteata

Source of Aromatic Ethers that can Assist in Relieving Plant StressCultivates Well in ThailandRapidly Growing Market

1,8-cineole A-terpineol Methyl eugenol

Page 388: Essential oils presentation

Artemisia annuaA source of artemisinin for treatment of malaria

World Shortage

Straight forward cultivation

Page 389: Essential oils presentation

Backhousia citriodora (Lemon Myrtle)

High Investment to Expand Industry in Australia

Strong Demand as an Ingredient for tea

Good Crop to Grow in Most Parts of Thailand

CHO

CHO

Citral (geranial 51.43 % and neral 42.12 % )

Page 390: Essential oils presentation

Eucalyptus citriodoraGood Monsoon Crop

Easy to Cultivate

Oil is a bi-product

Excellent & High Valued Hard WoodOne year for oil

10 years for timberPercentage of oil yields is 0.9 %.citronellal (88.62%), β-pinena (0.16%), 1, 8-cineol (0.32%), 5-hepten (0.14%),linalool (0.12%), citronellol (0.52%), isopulegol (0.33%), 3- cyclohexanol (3.66%)and β-citronellol (0.52%).

CHO

Page 391: Essential oils presentation

Lengkuas (Alpinia galanga)

UV PropertiesFlavour Ingredient

Easy to cultivateNiche Oil –specialised market

kampheride, alpinin, galangin, methyl cinnamate , cincole,1’-acetoxychavicol acetate, 1’-hydroxychavicol acetate, galantin-3-methyl ether, a-terpineol, 4-hydroxybenzaldehyde, trans-coniferyl diacetate,trans-p-courmaryl diacetate, a-bergamotene, b-bisabolene, borneol, borneol acetate, butanol acetate, campene, carveol I, carveol II, chavicol acetate, citronellol acetate, a-copaene, curcumene, p-cymene, p-cymenol, eugenol methyl ether, 1’-acetoxyeugenol acetate, trans-b-farnescene, geraniol acetate, a-humulene, limonene, myrcene, nerol acetate, pentadecane, linalool, propanol acetate, 2-methyl sabinene, santalene, b-sesquiphellandrene (Malaysian Herbal Monograph) , g-terpinene, terpinolene, tridecane, caryophyllene oxide, 1’hydroxycineol acetate, p-hydroxycinnamaldehyde, di-(p-hydroxy-cis-styryl)-methane, a-pinene, b-pinene, quercetin, kaempferol, quercetin-3-methyl ether, isorhamnetin and derivative of 4-allylphenol

Page 392: Essential oils presentation

Geranium (pelargonium species)

Potential High Value Boutique CropGood for Hilly Terrain

Citronellol, andgeraniol, which occur in different proportions according to the origin of the oil. BothBourbon and North African-types contain unusual high quantities of (-)-citronellol, isomenthone and monoterpene formates. However they can be distinguished by the presence of different constituents such as guaia-6,9-diene in Bourbon oil and 10-epi-[gamma]-eudesmol in the African-type. The Chinese oil is similar to Bourbon-type, having higher content of citronellol (+40%) and lower content of Iinalool and geraniol (1,3).

Distillation or solvent extraction of the dried leaves

Page 393: Essential oils presentation

Economics

Page 394: Essential oils presentation

Tea Tree (Melaleuca alternifolia)

No Stable ProductionForecast Shortage

Potential Downstream

Suitable All Areas

Few Pest & Disease IssuesSmall or Large Scale Production

Established Market

Page 395: Essential oils presentation

Product and Market Price of Tea Tree Oil 1982-2005

0

100

200

300

400

500

60019

82

1984

1986

1988

1990

1992

1994

1996

1998

2000

2002

2004

Year

Tonn

es

0

10

20

30

40

50

60

70Price (AUD)

Page 396: Essential oils presentation

Tea Tree: Economics(1st Year)

Estimated Profit (Establishment Year Ha) Assumptions: Yield: 200kg/Ha. Price USD 40/kg (BHT1360/kg)

Revenue= BHT 272,000Estimated Costs Amount Nursery BHT20,000Planting BHT5000Maintenance BHT5000Harvesting & Distillation BHT20,000

Total Cost BHT50,000

Net Profit First Year: BHT222,000

Net Profit First Year (If Organic): BHT 766,000

Page 397: Essential oils presentation

Tea Tree: Economics (2nd Year)

Estimated Profit (Establishment Year Ha) Assumptions: Yield: 300kg/Ha. Price USD 40/kg (BHT1360/kg)

Revenue= BHT 408,000Estimated Costs Amount Planting BHT5000Maintenance BHT5000Harvesting & Distillation BHT20,000

Total Cost BHT30,000

Net Profit 2nd Year: BHT378,000

Net Profit 2nd Year (If Organic): BHT 1,194,000

Page 398: Essential oils presentation

Tea Tree: Economics (Subsequent Years)

Estimated Profit (Establishment Year Ha) Assumptions: Yield: 450kg/Ha. Price USD 40/kg (BHT1360/kg)

Revenue= BHT 612,000Estimated Costs Amount Planting BHT5000Maintenance BHT5000Harvesting & Distillation BHT35,000

Total Cost BHT45,000

Net Profit 3rd Year: BHT 567,000

Net Profit 3rd Year (If Organic): BHT 1,791,000

Page 399: Essential oils presentation

Tea tree Industry in Australia• High capital Investment Industry

Page 400: Essential oils presentation

No major producers left in Australia

Page 401: Essential oils presentation

China taking over as the largest

producer

Page 402: Essential oils presentation

2000

2001

2002

2003

2004

2005

2006

Australia

020406080

100120140160

Tonnes

Comparative Production Australia & China of Tea Tree Oil

Australia

China

Failure of the Australian

Industry to take a global

business view

Page 403: Essential oils presentation

Essential Oil Production

Trading

Flavour & Fragrance

Compounding End Product Manufacture Wholesaler Retailer

Consumer

1.0 1.6 2-3.0 (6-9) 2-2.5 (18-24)

Relative and (Absolute) Value Added Through Chain

1.1-1.2 (19.8-28.8)

1.2-1.4 (23.76-40.32)

The Essential Oil Value Chain (Flavour & Fragrance Industry)

Page 404: Essential oils presentation

Some Fine Fragrance Profiles

Page 405: Essential oils presentation

• Citrus

• Floral

• Aldehydic

• Spicy

• Oriental

• Chypre

• Fougere

Basic Fragrance TypesBasic Fragrance Types

Page 406: Essential oils presentation

Representative IngredientsNatural : Lemon Oil, Bergamote, Lime….Chemical : Citral, Dihydo Myrcenol….

Representative Fine Fragrance

O de Lancome (1975. Lancome)Bulgari Eau Parfume (1992. Bulgari)CK one (1994. C.Klein)

Eau Savage (1966.C.Dior)

BergamotLemonOrange

Rose Jasmine

Lily of Valley

OakmossAmbergris

Civet

• Citrus notes Citrus + Floral

Page 407: Essential oils presentation

• Citrus notes

BergamotLemon

MandarinDihydro Myrcenol

JasminMuguet

AmberMusk

Sandalwood

Green

Citrus

Floral

Amber

Woody Musk

Page 408: Essential oils presentation

• Floral notes Floral + Floral

Representative IngredientsNatural : Jamine Abs, Ylang Ylang, Rose Abs. Tuberose ….Chemical : Hedion, Benzyl Acetate….

Representative Fine Fragrance

Joy (1935. Jean Patou)Diorssimo (1956.C.Dior)Anais Anais (1979. Cacharel)Paris (1983. YSL)Beautiful (1985. E. Lauder)

Green

JasmineRose

Ylang YlangViolet

Muguet

MuskSandalwood

Powdery

Green

Floral

MuskWoodyPowdery

Page 409: Essential oils presentation

• Aldehydic notes Floral + Aldehydic

Aldehyd 10Muguet

Ylang-Ylang

JasmineRose

CarnationAldehyde C-11Aldehyde C-12

VanillaSandalwood

Musk

Floral

Aldehyddic

WoodyPowder

Representative IngredientsNatural : Not available Chemical : Aldehyde C-11, Aldehyde C-12..….

Representative Fine Fragrance

Chanel No. 5 (1921. Chanel)Calandre (1969. 1969. Rabanne)First (1976. Van Cleef & Arpels)

Page 410: Essential oils presentation

• Spicy notes Floral + Spicy

BergamotYlang Ylang

CarnationJasmine

RoseIris

SandalwoodCedarwood

Musk

Floral

Spicy Floral

WoodyMusk

Representative IngredientsNatural : Clove Buds oil, Pepper oil, Cinnamon oil. Carnation……. Chemical : Eugenol, Cinnamic Aldehyde ..….

Representative Fine Fragrance

L’air du Temps (1948. Nina Ricci)Fidji (1966. Guy Laroche)

Egoist (1990. Chanel)

Page 411: Essential oils presentation

• Chypre notes What is Chypre….?

Citrus Green

Aldehyde

Floral (Jasmine, Rose, Ylang…)

WoodyMossy

Patchouli

Representative Fine Fragrance

Mitsouko (1919. Guerlain)Miss Dior (1947. Christian Dior)Coco (1984. Chanel)Ysatis (1984. Givenchy)

Representative IngredientsNatural : Oak moss Abs. Vertiver, Patchouli oil Galbanum Cederwood, SandalwoodChemical : Veramoss, Iso E Super..….

Page 412: Essential oils presentation

BergamotMandarinGalbanum

AldehydC-11

JasmineRose

Ylang-YlangMuguet

AmberMossy

PatchouliMossyWoody

Oriental

CitrusGreenAldehyde

Floral

AmberWoodyMossy

• Chypre notes - Fine Fragrance

Page 413: Essential oils presentation

• Oriental notes What is Oriental….?

Citrus Mandarin

Lemon

Spicy(cinamon..)Floral

Vanilla Abs.Sweet

Balsam

Representative IngredientsNatural : Vanilla, Tolu Balsam, Mandarin, Cinnamon Chemical : Vanillin, Galaxolide..….

Representative Fine Fragrance

Shalimar (1925. Guelain)Obsession (1984. Calvin Klein)Opium (1977. YSL)Samsara (1989. Guelain)Jean Paul Gaultier (1993. J.P.Gaultier)

Page 414: Essential oils presentation

BergamotOrange

JasmineRose

TuberoseOrangeflower

VanillaAmber

Castoreum

Citrus

Floral

WoodyPowdery

• Oriental notes - Fine Fragrance

Page 415: Essential oils presentation

• Fougere notes What is Fougere….?

HerbaciousBergamotLavender

Floral (Muguet, Geranium, Carnation)

PowderyMossyWoody

Representative IngredientsNatural : Lavender, Lavendin, Eucalyptus Chemical : Lavender Spike Oil, Carvone-L..….

Representative Fine Fragrance

Brut (1964. Faberge)Drakkar Noir (1982. Guy Laroche)Paco Rabanne (1973. Paco Rabanne)Cool Water (1988. Davidoff)

Page 416: Essential oils presentation

BergamotLavendin

CloveSpearmint

MuguetGeraniumCarnation

PowderyMossy

Cederwood

Herbacious

Floral

WoodyPowdery

• Fougere notes - Fine Fragrance

Page 417: Essential oils presentation
Page 418: Essential oils presentation

Just as in any other industry technology in the flavour and fragrance industry is

rapidly changing due to technology, consumer tastes and regulation

•Technology

•Consumer style change

Page 419: Essential oils presentation

Illustration of Lily of the Valley Fragrances from 19th Century and Today

19th Century

Tuberose extract 21oz

Jasmin extract 3oz

Rose extract 2oz

Orange flower extract 2oz

Spirit of rose 2oz

Essence of vanilla 2oz

Ylang ylang No.1 1/2 oz

Bergamot oil 1/2 oz

Bois de rose extract 1/4oz

PresentHydroxycitronellal 35.0

Rhodinol 18.0

Linalool 14.5

Phenyl ethyl alcohol 12.0

Geraniol 4.5

Di methyl benzyl cabinal acetate 4.5

Amyl cinnamic aldehyde 3.6

Lilial (Givaudan) 2.0

Iso eugenol 0.5

Phenylacetaldehyde dimethylacetal 0.2

Benzyl benzoate 4.2

Indole (10% solution DPG) 1.0

Addition of aroma chemicals and proprietary

specialties

Page 420: Essential oils presentation

Emerging Fragrance TrendsSophisticated Red Fruits

Pomegranate, redcurrant, raspberry leaves

Red Fruit will go darker

Blackcurrant, blackberry, black rose and black plum

Gourmand notes

Chocolate replacing vanilla as a base, brown sugar

Milky notes

Milk, milky coconut

More specific exotic fruit

Passionfruit, star fruit, kiwi, guava, litchi sorbet instead of pineapple,

and coconut

Pink pepper

New spicy note

Oriental influences

Tea (red tea and green tea), ginger and bamboo for herbal

notes based on oriental influences

Chocolate, mango and musk black

Page 421: Essential oils presentation

USAAsian Influence

Sesame, wasabi, ginger, noodle and

Asian cabbage

Indian Influence

Fruit, spice and toasted nuts, chutney, quince pear, roasted

coriander, pistaschio,almond &

walnut

Blue and goat cheese

MexicoTarmarind, squash flowers, huitlacoche (corn mushroom),

portobello mushroom, duck meat

North America

Cuisines with most potential for growth

Mediterranean influence

Indian influence

Middle East influence

Slow Food

Europe

Fusion style

Thai, Indonesian, Vietnamese influences

Contemporary cuisine

Mediterranean influence

Exotic combinations

South America

Fusion style

Thai/ChineseWestern/ChineseIndonesian/Thai

American/Mediterranean

Italian

French

Asia/Pacific

Page 422: Essential oils presentation

Emerging Processed Food Flavour Trends

Exotic Infusions

A spicy kick of lemongrass, curcuma, pepper, coriander, ginger, basil, cardamom,

cinnamon, oregano

Red Pleasures

Strawberry, cranberry, pomegranate, roobos, greengage, rhubarb, plum, blood

orange, cherry variants, black current, huckleberry

Black Health

Black tea, black vinegar, black sesame seeds, black soybeans, black rice, black

sugar, malt

Botanical Power

Honeysuckle, lavender blossom, elderflower, hibiscus, sunflower blossom,

rose

Attracting Opposites

Spicy/mild, sweet/sour, hot/cold, fire/ice

Ethnic Revival

Traditional tastes and flavours, African hibiscus, Japanese cherry blossom, or

Maroccan kumquat

Flavour Migration

Different categories start to mingle, desert drinks, coffee, cocktails

Page 423: Essential oils presentation

Formulary of finished products

Page 424: Essential oils presentation

Laundry Detergent

Page 425: Essential oils presentation

Laundry Liquids Detergents

Concentrated Laundry Powders

Detergents with Special Additives

Laundry Detergent Tablets

Laundry Detergents Powders

Solid Soaps & Powders

Laundry Blue

Laundry Detergent Bars

Pre 1900’s

Up to Late 1940’s

1950’s until present

1980’s until present

The Evolution of the Laundry Detergent

Product Evolution changes market positioning

Page 426: Essential oils presentation

Fragrance

Terpineol 50Dihydromyrcenol 50Floramat (Henkel) 50

Vertacetal (Dragoco) 50P-tertButyl cyclohexal acetate 50

Cyclemen aldehyde 50Magoflor 50 (IFF) 50

Citronellol 50Galaxolide (IFF) 50

Benzyl Salicylate 50Linalool 80

Phenyl ethyl alcohol 100A-amyl cinnamaldehyde 100

Isoeugenol 10Undecylenaldehyde 10

Benzyl acetate 20Allyl ionone 20

Vigorose (IFF) 20Dimetol (Givauden) 20

Ionone 20Coumarin 20

Ocimenyl acetate 20Anisaldehyde 30

Cinnamic alcohol 30

Fragrance Formulation for Kao Attack

Page 427: Essential oils presentation

Considerations in Developing Fragrances for Laundry Products

Material % Material lost after 12 weeks

% Material lost after 24 weeks

Alpha-ionone 86 78 Dihydrojasmone 92 72 Phenyl ethyl alcohol 66 52 Citronellyl acetate 65 31 Linalool 38 27 Phenylethyl amyl ether 35 23 Benzyl acetate 18 13 Benzyl amyl ether 40 12 Linalyl acetate 32 12 Phenylacetaldehyde 20 7 Citral 40 0

Loss of perfume materials from a detergent powder after storage at room temperature in a cardboard container

Page 428: Essential oils presentation

Material Diffusion Constant (D) in

cms x 1010

Camphor 0.22 Citronellol 0.35 Dimethyl benzyl carbinol 0.45 Menthol 0.57 Linalyl acetate 0.82 Eugenol 1.30 Phenyl ethyl alcohol 2.30 Diphenyl methane 3.50 Diphenyl oxide 3.90 Limonene 5.70 Cis-3-hexanol 15.0

Diffusion Constants of Some Perfume Materials Through High-Density Polyethylene (HDPE) from a Methanol Solution

at 23c

Page 429: Essential oils presentation

Benefits and Technologies in Cleaning Clothes

Problem Dirty Clothes

Hand

Washing

Automatic local

Washer/Dryer Launderette

Machine

Dry

Cleaners

Electrical Technology

SolventsWashing Powders

Fabric Conditioners

Benefit Clean Clothes

Laundry

Powders

Liquid

Detergents

Page 430: Essential oils presentation

Demographics of Odour Communication

Perfumery

Marketing

Mix

Cleanliness

Softness

Citrus

Lemon

Herbal

Green

Psychological

Association

Objective: to reinforce the belief of the consumer in the desired and projected

image of the product

Synergy with product presentation: packaging, colour, advertising, corporate image

Product

Differentiation

Page 431: Essential oils presentation

Product FormulationIngredients Examples Europe Japan USA

Anionic Surfactants

Alkylbenzene sulfonates Fatty alcohol sulphanates Olefin sulphanates

5-10% 5-15% 0-20%

Non-Ionic Surfactants

Alykyl polyethenglygol ethers Nonyphenol polyethyleneglycol ethers

3-6% 0-2% 0-17%

Suds control agents

Silicones, parafins 0.1-3.5% 1-3% 0-0.6%

Foaming Boosters

Fatty acid monoethanol amides

0-2% 0-5% 0-5%

Ion exchangers Zeolit A, polyacrylic acids

5-10% 10-20% 0-45%

Alkalis Sodium carbonate 5-10% 5-20% 10-35% Bleaching Agents

Sodium perborate, Sodium percarbonate

20-25% 0-5% 0-5%

Bleach activator

Tetraacetyl ethylenediamine

0-2%

Anti disposition agents

Cellulose ethers 0,5-1.5% 0-2% 0-0.5%

Enzymes Proteases, amylases

0.3-0.8% 0-0.5% 0-0.5%

Optical Brighteners

Stilbene-disulfonic acid

0.1-0.3% 0.1-0.8% 0.05-0.25%

Anti Corrosion Agents

Sodium silicate 2-6% 5-15% 0-25%

Fragrance 0.1-0.3% 0.1-0.3% 0.1-0.3%

Page 432: Essential oils presentation

What is this the formula of?Part 1

3.50 ml orange oil1.00 ml lemon oil

1.00 ml nutmeg oil1.25 ml cassia oil

0.25 ml coriander oil0.25 ml neroli oil2.75 ml lime oil

0.25 ml lavender oil10.0 g food-grade gum arabic

3.00 ml water

Part 2

2.00 tsp. Flavouring formula20g coca leaf extract

20g cola extract

5 g vanilla

3.50 tsp. 75% phosphoric acid 2.28 l water

2.36 kg plain granulated white table sugar

0.50 tsp. caffeine 30.0 ml caramel colour

500 ml lime juicePart 3

Mix parts 1 & 2 together and then add 1:5 parts of water and carbonate.

Page 433: Essential oils presentation

Essential Oils in Thailand

Page 434: Essential oils presentation

Phurua, Loei Province

The system of extraction uses a new family of benign non-CFC gaseous solvents (R134a) 1,1,1,2tetrafluoroethylene

Producing Rose oil, jasmin grandiflorum and sambac, champaca, ylang ylang, frangipani.

Selling to Europe and US markets

Coffee Extract

Tuberose

Page 435: Essential oils presentation

Rose Harvesting Rose Collection

Extraction PreparationExtraction

Page 436: Essential oils presentation

Non Commission Officer Welfare Project

Page 437: Essential oils presentation

Agarwood

Page 438: Essential oils presentation
Page 439: Essential oils presentation

Products

Page 440: Essential oils presentation

Plai oil (Zingiber cassumunar)

Major Constituents: terpinen-4-ol, a-terpinene, sabinene, g-terpinene, cis-3-(2',4',5'-trimethoxyphenyl-4-[(E)-2''',4''',5'''-trimethoxy-styryl]cyclohex-1-ene, cis-3-(3',4'-dimethoxyphenyl)-4-[(E)-3''',4'''-dimethoxystyryl]cyclohex-1-ene, cis-3-(3',4'-dimethoxyphenyl)-4-[(E)-2''',4''',5'''- trimethoxystyryl]cyclohex-1-ene (3),(E)-4-(3',4'-dimethoxypheny1)but-3-en-1-ol, E)-4-(3',4'-dimethoxypheny1)but-3-en-1-yl acetate, 8-(3',4'-dimethoxyphenyl)-2-methoxynaphtho-1,4- quinone

Sabinene and terpinen-4-ol

a-terpinene

g-terpinene

Extraction Method: Steam

distillation of the rhizomes

Page 441: Essential oils presentation

Potential Research Projects

Page 442: Essential oils presentation

Cajuput (Gelam) Melaleuca cajuputi

Local TreeNumber potential MarketsCan Basically Set PriceEasy to Cultivate

Page 443: Essential oils presentation

Pandanus Oil (Pandanus odoratissimus)

phenethyl methyl etherpandanol

Origin: native of South East Asia and is much cultivated on the Indian East Coast

The flowers are hydro-distilled to yield a 'kewda attar

phenethyl methyl ether (pandanol) (38 %), together with terpinen-4-ol (19 %), alpha-terpineol (8 %) and phenethyl alcohol (7 %) [79]. Phenethyl alcohol and its derivatives are common odorants in flowers

Page 444: Essential oils presentation

Persicaria odoratum (Kesum)New MaterialGood Highland CropSmall Scale High ValuePests Easily ControlledDoesn’t need Registration as an Aromatic Chemical

Page 445: Essential oils presentation

Potential Careers in the Industry

TechnicalNatural Products Chemist BHT 30-70K p.m.Product Development Chemist BHT 40-120KAnalytical Chemist BHT 30-70K Fragrance Compounder BHT 25-50KProduct Application Chemist BHT 30-80KSpecialist Agrominist BHT 40-80K per MonthDistillation Engineer BHT40-70K per month

Page 446: Essential oils presentation

Potential Careers in the Industry

ProfessionalPerfumer BHT 150-500K per monthFlavourist BHT 120-400K per monthFragrance evaluator BHT 40-60K per MonthFlavour and Fragrance House Sales & marketing BHT60-120K per monthProduct Manager Cosmetic Industry BHT 60-120K per Month

Page 447: Essential oils presentation

Potential Careers in the Industry

Entrepreneurial

Essential Oils FarmingAgro tourism & SpaCosmetic BusinessAromatherapy/Herbalist

Producer of spices

Islamic Herb Producer

Page 448: Essential oils presentation

•http://www.bojensen.net/EssentialOilsEng/EssentialOils26/EssentialOils26.htm•IFF Basic Perfume Course•Curtis, T. & Williams, D. G., Introduction to Perfumery, New York, Ellis Horwood, 1994•Hunter, M., M., Extrait Perfumes, Cosmetic World News, July, 1994, (UK) •Hunter, M., M., The Evolution of Extrait Perfumes, Cosmetics, Aerosols and Toiletries in Australia, Vol. 9, No. 2, pp. 19-24, May 1995 (Aus)•Hunter, M.M., A Framework to Develop New Essential Oils, Cosmetics, Aerosols and Toiletries in Australia, Vol. 9, No. 4, pp. 23-31, Sept. 1995 (Aus)•Hunter, M.M., Some Issues and Difficulties Related to Developing New Essential Oils with Reference to the Essential Oil of Polygonum odoratum, Grown in Southern Australia, in Baser, K.H.C., (Editor), Flavours, Fragrances and Essential Oils, Proceedings of the 13th International Congress of Flavours, Fragrances and essential Oils, Istanbul, Turkey, 15-19 October 1995, P. 389.•Hunter, M., M., Kesom Oil: A New Essential Oil for the International Flavour Industry, Agro-Food High-Tech, International Journal of Green Chemistry, Vol. 7., No. 5, Sept.-October 1996, •Hunter, M., M., The Flavour and fragrance Industry: Structure and Future trends, Cosmetics, Cosmetics, Aerosols and Toiletries in Australia, Vol. 9, No. 6, pp. 20-31, March 1996 (Aus)•Hunter, M.M., Malaysia: A New Source of Tea tree Oil. Invited Paper presented at Personal Care

Ingredients Asia Exhibition and Conference, April 1997, PWTC, Kuala Lumpur •Hunter, M. M., Essential Oils: Various Industry Models Around the World, Invited Paper Presented to the Seminar on Medicinal and Aromatic Plants 2005, Forest Research Institute of Malaysia, Cititel Mid valley, 13-14th September, 2005.•Hunter, M., The Growing Demand for essential oils and other plant extracts in agricultural applications, Berita IKM (Malaysian Institute of Chemistry), December, 2006

•Porter, M. E, Competitive Advantage: Creating and Sustaining Superior Performance,

New York, Free Press, 1985•Developing Essential Oils in Malaysia as a Global Industry, Paper delivered to the 2nd. Malaysia Agro-Bio Business Conference, 2006, 13-14th July, PWTC, Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia (Invited Speaker)

References

Page 449: Essential oils presentation

•Muller, P. M. and Lamparksky, D., Perfumes: Art, Science and Technology, London, Blackie Academic & Professional, 1994

•Denny, E. F. K., Field Distillation for Herbaceous Oils, Tasmania, Self Published, 1990.

•Brophy, J., J. and Doran, J., C., Essential Oils of Tropical Asteromyrtus, Callistemon and Melaleuca Species, Canberra, ACIAR, 1996