Amy Theobald Level 4 Buying & Merchandising

The Fashion Retail Academy

Est. 2013

Contents •  Introduction •  Range Story •  Trend Board •  Specification Illustration •  Construction •  Fabrics & Components •  Test Report •  Care Labelling •  Supplier Notes •  Swing Tag •  Open Costing •  Conclusion

Introduction •  I will be selecting a garment from Ted’s Emporium Urban Tropics S/S’14 range. This garment will

be taken and developed further in order to create a suitable buyer’s pack in order to present to a supplier or head of buying.

•  Creating a buyer’s pack will allow me to fully see the development of a product and highlight the importance of clear, concise and meticulous information. It will also help me to gain a better understanding of the manufacturing process and requirements needed in order to get a product from the initial idea, through production and shop floor ready.

•  The trend from which I have chosen to develop a garment further is Urban Tropics. This will be the first range for the start up concept store.

•  Product testing is fundamental to the Ted’s Emporium manufacturing process in order to create garments of the highest quality possible. I will be tackling this issue, choosing which testing methods will be most appropriate for my garment to ensure it is as quality assured as possible for the customer. This will enable me to evaluate resources needed to produce the garment, clarify and offer possible avenues in which to rectify points and issues within the garments production.

•  Primarily, the most important part to any Buyer or Merchandiser is the final cost of the garment. I will produce an open costing to provide a clear break down of the over all cost including CMT, factory profit and company margin.

Range story

We hope you’re ready to explore. This story works perfectly for the gent who likes to keep his look subtle and understated. Concentrating on colour and texture it has been adopted by many designers in the industry including Balmain, Diesel and Moschino. Pushing a combination of pastel and earthy tones using cottons and light knits, key fabrics for keeping you cool this summer. It ’s unfussy natur e is v ersatile and transferable among other trends, both wearable and workable. Camo is left in the dark and feels somewhat dated in this story. We are all for embracing ethnic prints. So roll back those sleeves and pop those collars on your summer shirts. Worried you may be mistaken for Bill Oddie? Panic over. All these elements culminate to meaning the costume element has been stripped away and it is now totally wearable. We hope you’re ready, it seems the tropical safari theme is ready to make its annual migration from the wilderness and into the mainstream in the most sophisticated form we have seen yet.

TREND BOARD    The image part with relationship ID rId2 was not found in the file.

Harrington illustration •  I have chosen to produce a pack for the Chuck

Harrington jacket. I feel this piece is commercial and will give me enough information in order to put together a strong pack.

•  The Urban Tropic trend is very strong, but I believe each piece is transferable between other emerging trends of the season and appealing to most of my target audience – due to its classic shapes enhanced with modern summer touches – ensuring I still capture the essence of the trend. This way the jacket is not purely one dimensional. It has been given premium touches to enhance its appearance.

•  The jacket is available in two colour ways; a light stone and coral. Both are lined with a p i n e a p p l e H awa i i a n i n s p i r e d p r i n t . T h e contrasting lining is a key element in brining the trend to life through the jacket – as well as adding an extra layer for warmth and wind resistance, as we all know it is key to be prepared with the weather currently!

•  The elasticated cuff and hem along with the collar are a key styling feature to the traditional Harrington and ones which I have ch os e n to k e e p in or d e r to r e main as traditionally accurate as possible to the silhouette so many have come to know and love.

•  The Ted’s Emporium crown logo will be embroided on the left front chest panel in thread dyed t o match the outer. This is to add a premium touch and keep a feeling of the brand running through the collection.

•  The pockets are both for form and function. They add to the appearance of the jacket as well as being practical for the average gent.

Harrington construction STYLE REFERENCE: CHUCK

To be made to agreed Harrington jacket

specification – Size medium.

Sleeve length – 68cm

Chest – 101cm (40”)

Cuff – 3cm

Hem – 4cm

Sleeve width – 19cm

Back length – 71cm Hidden kangaroo pocket Pocket length – 15cm Pocket inner – 20x22cm Zip length – 13cm Zip leather trim – 3cm (on all three zips)

Zip length – 65cm

Collar folded – 5cm Collar standing -- 10cm

Set in sleeve

Hem width – 97cm

Lining made to match as appropriate – again, follow spec.

2 x Button up collar – 5x3cm section Buttons- - 1.5cm diameter

fabric & components STYLE REFERENCE: CHUCK

Front & Back outer – 100% Cotton Lining – Printed 50% Silk 50% viscose on both samples Zip trim – Tan leather on both samples Sample 1 – Outer stone pantone 406 Lining – printed pineapple Sample 2 – Outer coral pantone 1635

Lining – printed pineapple Zips – Tape dyed to match outer pantone.

Silver metal zip. 1 x 65cm center front cotton & metal zip 2 x 13cm pocket cotton & metal zip

Buttons – 1.5cm diameter brown, wooden. Crown Crest – 100% cotton thread dyed to match outer on both samples. Elastane – 2.5cm wide on cuff

3.5cm wide on hem Thread – Dyed to match outer on both samples.

**PLEASE FOLLOW APPROVED BLOCK**

100% Cotton 50% Viscose 50% Silk

Center zip – 65cm Pocket zip x 2 – 13cm Zip leather trim – 3cm (on all three zips)  

1.5cm diameter brown button x 2  

fabric & components FRONT & BACK VIEW PANTONE REFERNCES FABRIC & COMPONENTS

FABRIC PANTONE SAMPLE 1

PANTONE SAMPLE 2

OUTER Pantone 406 C

Pantone 1625 C

LINING Pineapple Print

Pineapple Print

LEATHER TRIM

Pantone 405 C

Pantone 405 C

Sample 1

Sample 2

1) 100% Cotton (406c & 1625C) 2) Lining – 50% Viscose 50% Silk

3) Leather trim 4) Buttons

6) Zip 100% cotton metal zip

5) Elastane

STYLE REF: CHUCK HARRINGTON. S/S 2014

Test report Product testing is a crucial part of the manufacturing process and takes place at many points along the development of a garment. Here I will be discussing possible testing methods which are appropriate in order for the Harrington to reach it’s full potential end use and meet customer quality standards.

Test Method Description

Minimum Performance Requirements

Comment

Composition Analysis 0% Generic Fibre Tolerance Required on all fabrics

Dimensional Stability to Washing

+/- 2% Required as is a washable garment. Extensible fabrics are able to retain original shape after washing? Permanent shrinkage should be noted.

Colour Fastness to Washing

4C. 4S 4-5S (Garment with contrast

trim)

Required as garments can be washed by customer at home. Important to ensure no colour running with lining or other garments it may be

washed with.

Colour Fastness to Rubbing (Dry)

3-4 S Required as using a coral dye. Important to ensure other garments it may be worn with or home furnishings.

Colour Fastness to Rubbing (Wet)

4S Required as garment may become damp – do not want dye running or rubbing onto other surfaces.

Piling Resistance (Martindale)

Grade 4 @ 500 Revs Required for cotton fabrics. Do not want piles to appear under arms.

Residual Extension 30% Max Required to test strength and recovery of elastane enhanced cuff and hem

Durability – Embellishments

Standard 4 Required to ensure high standard of production of crown crest on front panel. Also leather trim on zip ends.

Durability – Print 4C 4-5 Gross Standing

Required for lining fabric as has all over pigment print

Surface Flash Grade 4 Required for fire safety – to see how long jackets takes to set alight

Seam Strength 12 kg Light sewing 18kg Outerwear

Using two different materials on this garment and elastic. Important to test their strength to see what the performance will be and if they work well

together.

Care labelling Once the product has been tested it is important to make the customer aware of the tolerances of the garment aftercare once purchased. The garment label is always over cautious so as to prevent returns and act as a guide/ warning to customers as to how to care for the garment.

Ted’s Emporium Size Medium Made in UK

Save Energy – Wash at 30!

Outer – 100% Cotton

Lining - 50% Viscose 50% Silk

Machine wash at 30 degrees Wash colours separately

Do not bleach Do not dry clean

Do not tumble dry Dry in shade

Dry on hanger Cool iron if needed

Supplier notes SUPPLIER NOTE: Please refer to comments on samples. I have attached samples of fabric and trims. Please follow guides on desired fabrics, composition and trim sizing. All should be tested. If one is to fail a test, we should be consulted and another alternative sourced. Any queries do not hesitate to contact our Garment Technologist for further assistance.

Cost may also vary due to fabric composition. If by using silk it does not match the quoted cost price – please source cheaper, suitable alternative with similar structure, appearance and feel. It is a necessity that if there are any changes made I am notified immediately and sent a sample for approval.

Swing tags & Packaging

STORE DELIVERY: Please follow packaging instructions for delivery. Our logistics team will be in contact to discuss a strategy.

•  Harrington should be hung on strings and bagged in biodegradable polybags in groups of 5 where possible to reduce wastage

•  All garments to be steamed before delivery Please ensure that the strategy is followed at all times. Failure to do so will result in poor KPI grading and affect payment terms.

Ted’s emporium m

Clothing Label Ted’s emporium

Chuck Harrington Jacket

Medium

109.00 GBP

Ted’s emporium Est. 2013 Est. 2013

Swing Tag Front Swing Tag Back

Made In

Britain

Open costing

Chuck - Harrington Jacket COO – Made In Britain

RRP – 109.00 GBP Margin – 60%

BASIC COSTING BREAKDOWN

Fabric 36% 13.08 1m Body 1m Arms

2m Lining

10% 10% 16%

3.63 p/m 3.63 p/m

5.82 (2.41 p/m)

Trim 18% 6.54 Leather Zip x1 Zip x 2

Buttons x 2 Elastane

2% 4% 8% 2% 2%

0.73 1.45

2.90 (1.45 p/z) 0.73 (36.5p p/b)

0.73

CMT 25% 9.08 - - 9.08

Labels & Packaging

6% 2.18 Care label Kimball

Heavyweight hanger

1% 2% 3%

0.36 0.73 1.09

Finishing 3% 1.09 Steaming at DC

- 1.09

Factory Profit

10% 3.63 - - 3.63

Transport 2% 0.73 - - 0.73

TOTAL 100%

36.33 - - 36.33

Conclusion I am confident I have put together a clear and concise Buyer’s Pack. The Chuck Harrington is at the top of my price range. I have incorporated the theme using colour and a touch of print in the lining. The shape is a traditional British style icon in itself.

As this is the first range for Ted’s Emporium I am hoping to reduce risk of error by ensuring constant communication with the supplier and buying team. This may mean more time in fit sessions, but with premium product fit is key. And there is only one chance to make a great first impression. I have planned a fairly low margin for the first launch, this I due to small quantities and additional cost to CMT and lining design development throughout the process.

All testing requirements will need to be passed. At Ted’s Emporium our main requirement is that the garments are of the highest quality possible. Pantone referencing must be precise, suppliers must also be meticulous as no variation in colour will be accepted. Ted’s Emporium follow strict guidelines on safety, PESTEL factors, measurements, tolerance levels, testing procedures and safe delivery. This supply manual is updated every year. I am hoping to build strong and long lasting relationships with suppliers as this will help me in future negotiations.