estonia, latvia & lithuania · estonia, latvia & lithuania anna kaminski, hugh mcnaughtan,...

Estonia, Latvia & Lithuania

Anna Kaminski, Hugh McNaughtan, Ryan Ver Berkmoes

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©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Welcome to Estonia, Latvia & Lithuania . . . . . . 4Estonia, Latvia & Lithuania Map . . . . . . . . .6Estonia, Latvia & Lithuania’s Top 17 . . . . . . . .8Need to Know . . . . . . . . . .18What’s New . . . . . . . . . . . 20If You Like… . . . . . . . . . . . 22Month by Month . . . . . . . 25Itineraries . . . . . . . . . . . . 30Road Trips . . . . . . . . . . . . 34Outdoor Activities . . . . . .37Family Travel . . . . . . . . . . 44Regions at a Glance . . . . .47

ESTONIA . . . . . . . . . . 50Tallinn . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 51Around Tallinn . . . . . . . . . 87Keila-Joa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 87Padise . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 87Kaberneeme . . . . . . . . . . . . 88Northern Estonia . . . . . . 88Lahemaa National Park . . . . . . . . . . . 88Rakvere . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 96Ontika Nature Reserve . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 99Narva . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 99Narva-Jõesuu . . . . . . . . . . 101Southern Estonia . . . . . 101The Southeast . . . . . . . . . 102

The Southwest . . . . . . . . . 128Western Estonia & the Islands . . . . . . . . . .141Haapsalu . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 141Muhu . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 146Saaremaa . . . . . . . . . . . . . 148Hiiumaa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 158Vormsi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 165Understand Estonia . . . 166Survival Guide . . . . . . . . 178

HELSINKI EXCURSION . . . . . . . .181Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 183Activities . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 187

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SURVIVAL GUIDE

Contents

Tours . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 187Festivals & Events . . . . . . 188Sleeping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 188Eating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 188Drinking & Nightlife . . . . . 190Entertainment . . . . . . . . . . 190Shopping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 190Understand Helsinki . . . . . . . . . . . . . .191Survival Guide . . . . . . . . .191

LATVIA . . . . . . . . . . . 193Rīga . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 196Around Rīga . . . . . . . . . . 227Jūrmala . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 227Ķemeri . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 232Western Latvia (Kurzeme) . . . . . . . . . . . 233Kurzeme Gulf Coast . . . . . 235Cape Kolka (Kolkasrags) . . . . . . . . . . . 235Northern Baltic Coast . . . 238Ventspils . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 239Pāvilosta . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 241Liepāja . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 242Kuldīga . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 246Alsunga . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 249Sabile . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .250Southern Latvia (Zemgale) . . . . . 250Bauska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 251Rundāle Palace . . . . . . . . . 252Dobele . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 253Around Dobele . . . . . . . . . 253Daugava River Valley . . . . 254Northeastern Latvia (Vidzeme) . . . . . 255Vidzeme Coast . . . . . . . . . 255Gauja National Park . . . . . 258Southeastern Latvia (Latgale) . . . . . . 270Daugavpils . . . . . . . . . . . . . 270

Around Daugavpils . . . . . . 273Rēzekne . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 275Around Rēzekne . . . . . . . . 276Understand Latvia . . . . 278Survival Guide . . . . . . . . 285

LITHUANIA . . . . . . . 288Vilnius . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 289Around Vilnius . . . . . . . 320Trakai . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .320Kernavė . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 323Europos Parkas Sculpture Park . . . . . . . . . 326Eastern & Southern Lithuania . . . . . . . . . . . . 327Aukštaitija National Park . . . . . . . . . . 328Visaginas & Ignalina Nuclear Power Station . . . . . . . . . . 331Labanoras Regional Park . . . . . . . . . . 332Druskininkai . . . . . . . . . . . 332Dzūkija National Park . . . 336Central Lithuania . . . . . 338Kaunas . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 338Kėdainiai . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 352Birštonas . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 354Šiauliai . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 355Biržai . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 359Anykščiai . . . . . . . . . . . . . .360Western Lithuania . . . . 362Klaipėda . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 362Curonian Spit National Park . . . . . . . . . . 372Nemunas Delta . . . . . . . . . 382Palanga . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .384Around Palanga . . . . . . . . 389Žemaitija National Park . . . . . . . . . . 389Understand Lithuania . . . . . . . . . . . . 391Survival Guide . . . . . . . . 402

KALININGRAD EXCURSION . . . . . . . 406Sights & Activities . . . . . .408Sleeping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .409Eating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 411Drinking & Nightlife . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 412Entertainment . . . . . . . . . . 413Understand Kaliningrad . . . . . . . . . . 413Survival Guide . . . . . . . . 414

Directory A–Z . . . . . . . . 416Transport . . . . . . . . . . . . 424Language . . . . . . . . . . . . 433Index . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 442Map Legend . . . . . . . . . . 455

SPECIAL FEATURESRoad Trips . . . . . . . . . . . . 34Outdoor Activities . . . . . .37Family Travel . . . . . . . . . . 44

Itineraries

P O L A N D

LITHUANIA

RUSSIA

BELARUS

ESTONIA

LATVIA

GOTLAND

Sigulda

Tartu

TALLINN

VILNIUS

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Best of the Baltic

If you’ve got limited time but you’re keen on seeing the best that each of the Baltic States has to offer, this itinerary captures many of the big-ticket destinations.

Begin your tour in Tallinn and roam the magnificent medieval streets of the Estoni-an capital’s Old Town. Delve into the city’s treasure trove of gastronomic delights before trekking out to Lahemaa National Park. The electric university town of Tartu awaits; then skip south into Latvia to take in the crumbling castles of Cēsis and Sigulda in Gauja National Park. Spend the night at one of the posh manor houses (muižas) nearby, then plough through to reach Rīga, home to a dizzying array of decorated facades. Next, head south to Rundāle to visit the opulent palace – the Baltic’s version of Versailles – built by the architect responsible for St Petersburg’s Winter Palace. From Rundāle, hop the border into Lithuania and stop for a poignant look at the Hill of Crosses in Šiauliai before shooting west to Curonian Spit. Spend some time amid the traditional cottages, shifting sand dunes and endless pine forest before a stopover in lively Kaunas and end-ing your trip in flamboyant, baroque Vilnius.

2 WEEKS

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With a month, you can roster in beach time, hiking excursions and visits to the region’s little towns – and even fit in a side trip to Helsinki.

Start in Lithuania’s beautiful capital Vilnius, spending two days wandering the cobblestone streets, checking out Gediminas Hill and taking in the city’s historical charms. If nuclear tourism is your bag, do a day trip to Visaginas and the Ignalina nuclear power station, then spend a day or two cycling and paddling in Aukštaitija National Park. Visit Trakai Castle before heading west towards the sea. Stop at Žemaitija National Park for a quick lesson in Soviet missile tactics, before relaxing along the dune-filled shores of Curonian Spit. Follow the Baltic Sea up through the port city of Klaipėda and family-friendly Palanga resort to reach the Latvian border.

Over the border is Liepāja, famous for its gilded cathedral and hulking Soviet tene-ments. Weather permitting, head north to surfside Pāvilosta before detouring inland to the picturesque village of Kuldīga. Continue to the lovely long sands of Ventspils, stay-ing overnight before hitting windy and wild Cape Kolka. Follow the coast as it snakes past forests and quiet villages to the spa retreat of Jūrmala – a hotspot for Russian tycoons and an excellent pit stop. From here Rīga is only a short hop.

After two days in the Latvian capital, cross into Estonia to sunbathe in Pärnu. Move west to hop between the forested islands of Muhu, Saaremaa and Hiiumaa. Stop for lunch and a castle visit in Haapsalu before continuing to Tallinn. Allow at least three days to take in the Estonian capital’s treasures before ferrying over to Helsinki for a night. Back in Estonia, stop overnight in Lahemaa National Park before heading through spa-heavy Rakvere and Mustvee, on the shores of Lake Peipsi, to Tartu for a night or two.

Check out the oddball border town of Valga/Valka, and stop in the charming Latvian town of Cēsis to wander among the fortress ruins. Sample Gauja National Park, and in Sigulda go bobsledding and bungee jumping. End your Baltic odyssey in Rīga or return to Vilnius.

4 WEEKS

P O L A N D

LITHUANIA

RUSSIA

BELARUS

ESTONIA

LATVIA

GOTLAND

Sigulda

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Palanga

Ventspils

CapeKolka

Jūrmala

Saaremaa MuhuPärnu

PāvilostaLiepāja

Kuldīga

Hiiumaa

Visaginas

Cēsis

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Curonian Spit

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The Grand Tour

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Ten days in the Baltic is just the right amount of time to get a feel for each of the region’s capitals.

Start in Vilnius, Lithuania’s capital, exploring the sumptuous baroque archi-tecture amid the curving cobbled streets. Take two or three days to snap photos of Gediminas Hill, savour the dining scene and absorb the rich Jewish history.

Make a side trip to the picturesque castle at Trakai before visiting Rīga, Latvia’s capital and the Baltic’s largest city. Haggle for huckleberries at the Central Market and crane your neck to savour the soaring art nouveau architecture. When it comes to day trips, you’ll be spoilt for choice. Try cavorting with the Russian elite in Jūrmala, Latvia’s spa centre; or cranking up the adrenaline in Sigulda, with its clutch of adventure sports. Next it’s on to Estonia’s capital, Tallinn, where you’ll be treated to a fairy-tale kingdom of medieval architecture, cobbled streets and centuries-old fortifications. Sample the world-class culinary and craft-beer scenes, and finish with a day of cycling around scenic Lahemaa National Park.

10 DAYS Capital Drop-In

A full week in Latvia offers time to explore a good number of the nation’s treasures beyond the attention-stealing capital.

After exploring Rīga, visit the forests and imposing castle near Sigulda before moving on to the secret Soviet bunker at Līgatne and the stone fortress of Cēsis. Swing through to Lake Rāzna in the peaceful Latgale Lakelands, then stay the night in arty Daugavpils. Walk the his-toric centre and see how the city honours native son Mark Rothko.

Loop back to Rundāle to take in the opulence of the palace before blasting on to the coast at Liepāja, home to Latvia’s garage-band scene, a lively music festival and the strikingly dour Karosta district. Detour inland to Kuldīga, one of the country’s quaintest towns, then stop over-night in beachy Ventspils. Then it’s on to Cape Kolka, where the Gulf of Rīga meets the Baltic Sea in dramatic fashion.

Follow the coastline through the con-stellation of lonely seaside villages to Jūrmala, the Baltic’s most famous resort town, then finish up back in Rīga.

1 WEEK

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Absolute Latvia

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PLAN YO

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If you can drag yourself away from the wonderland that is Tallinn, this itinerary covers a little of everything Estonia has to offer: beaches, countryside, castles, historic towns and quaint villages.

On a week’s journey through Estonia, spend at least two days in Tallinn to fully explore each crooked nook in the charming medieval core while sampling the spoils of the nation’s foodie scene. Lahemaa National Park makes for a lovely day trip, while the university town of Tartu awaits those looking for cultured city life away from the capital. Swing through Otepää, Estonia’s self-proclaimed ‘winter capital’, then switch seasons in Pärnu, where sun worshippers come in droves for beach-lazing.

Round off the week on Estonia’s west-ern islands. Stop by the time-warped village of Koguva on Muhu, then base yourself on Saaremaa at Kuressaare – Estonia’s prettiest spa town, set around an ancient moated castle. From here explore the island’s forested expanse of whooshing windmills, lonely churches and soaring sea cliffs. Finally, take a direct flight back to Tallinn.

1 WEEK Essential Estonia

You can pack a lot into one week in com-pact Lithuania, but if you’ve got the time, it’s worth stretching this itinerary out to a more relaxed 10 days.

Take at least two days to explore the cathedral, numerous museums and varied dining and nightlife scene of Vilnius. Then allow at least half a day to visit nearby Trakai to see the fairy-tale island castle. Beach bums and fresh-air fiends should then head to the Baltic coast, visit-ing the port city of Klaipėda with its enchanting historic centre and many bars, before continuing to the sand-and-pine-forest sliver of the Curonian Spit. Base yourself at the enchanting fishing village of Nida, ideal for exploring the Spit’s giant sand dunes and numerous cycling and hiking trails, and for lazing on white-sand beaches.

Passing back through Klaipėda, it’s worth detouring northeast to Šiauliai for half a day to visit the poignant Hill of Crosses, before finishing your journey in rough-edged Kaunas with its lively night-life, cobbled medieval streets and vibrant street art.

1 WEEK

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Lithuanian Solo

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SEND US YOUR FEEDBACK We love to hear from travellers – your comments keep us on our toes and help make our books better. Our well-travelled team reads every word on what you loved or loathed about this book. Although we cannot reply individually to your submissions, we always guarantee that your feed-back goes straight to the appropriate authors, in time for the next edition. Each person who sends us information is thanked in the next edition – the most useful submissions are rewarded with a selection of digital PDF chapters.

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OUR READERSMany thanks to the travellers who used the last edition and wrote to us with helpful hints, useful advice and interesting anecdotes: Andreas Hanzl, Bob Pearson, David Abulafia, Elisabeth Tacke, Filips Baumanis, Gilberto Falcon, Harry Kriewaldt, Hilary Hodge, Julie K Rose, Kate Walker, Katharine Ryan-Murray, Keith Ruffles, Lynne Williams, Marlies Van Hoef, Peter Calingaert, Péter Géczi, Peter Lowthian, Sabrina Wagner, Sain Alizada, Sheila Miller

WRITER THANKSAnna KaminskiThank you to Doc and Sandie for entrusting me with Lithuania, Kaliningrad and the Baltics’ top-level content, and to my fellow scribes Ryan and Hugh for their invaluable input. A huge thank you to everyone who helped me en route, including the good people of In Your Pocket, super-helpful staff in most visitor centres, Emalualis (Vilnius), Sinte (Ignalina), Gintaras and Viktor (Kaunas), Valentina (Kalin-ingrad), Lina and Mykolas (Curonian Spit), and Tomas in Druskininkai.

Hugh McNaughtanMy gratitude goes out to all who made this gig possible and helped me get to grips with Estonia: my editor Sandie; Eeva, Katrin and Keneth; and most especially Tas, Maise and Willa, for allowing me to disappear for five weeks.

Ryan Ver BerkmoesThanks to the extraordinary Juris Berže for his insights. Thanks also to Laila Abena and Anna Blaua as well as Elīna Pastare, Anna Burlakova, Gita Memmena, Kristiāna Kauliņa, Zane Krūmiņa, Kristine Štosa, Arta Celma and Dace Oberšate-Veisa. Much gratitude to Branislava Vladisavljevic, who originally pegged me for this project, which meant I could spend days lost in the wild and wonderful Latvia coast. And loving joy to Alexis Ver Berkmoes, who puts the potato in my pancakes (kartupeļu pankūkas).

ACKNOWLEDGEMENTSClimate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate Classification’, Hydrology and Earth System Sciences, 11, 1633–44.Cover photograph: Trakai Castle, Lithuania; A Aleksandravicius/Shutterstock ©

Behind the Scenes


441BEH

IND TH

E SCENES

THIS BOOKThis 8th edition of Lonely Planet’s Estonia, Latvia & Lithuania guidebook was re-searched and written by Anna Kaminski, Hugh McNaughtan and Ryan Ver Berkmoes. The previous edition was written by Peter Dragicevich, Hugh McNaughtan and Leonid

Ragozin. This guidebook was produced by the following:Senior Product Editor Sandie KestellRegional Senior Cartographer Valentina KremenchutskayaProduct Editor Carolyn BoicosBook Designer Jessica Rose Assisting Editors Ronan Abaya wickrema, Janet Austin,

Andrea Dobbin, Karen Henderson, Gabby Innes, Kellie Langdon, Lauren O’Connell, Gabrielle Stefanos, Simon WilliamsonCover Researcher Brendan Dempsey-SpencerThanks to William Allen, Imogen Bannister, Liz Heynes, Catherine Naghten, Charlotte Orr, Rachel Rawling, Kira Tverskaya

442

Index

Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

ABBREVIATIONSEst - EstoniaHel - Helsinki Kal - KaliningradLat - LatviaLith - Lithuania

Aaccessible travel 416accommodation 416-18,

see also individual locations

Estonia 50, 178language 433, 435,

436Latvia 193, 285, 286Lithuania 288, 402-3

activities 25-9, 37-43, see also individual activities, locations

adventure parks, see also water parks

Nõmme Adventure Park (Est) 68

Otepää Forest Adventure Park (Est) 127

Aglona (Lat) 275air travel 424-5, 429Alajõe (Est) 102Alberta Iela (Lat) 207-8Alsunga (Lat) 249-50Altja (Est) 89animals 92Anykščiai (Lith) 360-2Aparaaditehas (Est) 111Apriki (Lat) 249Āraiši (Lat) 266archaeological sites, see

also ruinsĀraiši Archaeological Park

(Lat) 266Kernavė Cultural Reserve

(Lith) 326

architecture 22-3art nouveau 13, 207-8, 209Soviet 69

area codes 422art galleries, see museums

& galleriesarts, see also individual arts

Estonia 173-6Latvia 281-3Lithuania 396-9

ATMs 421Aukštaitija National Park

(Lith) 328-30, 329, 36

BBaltic Coast (Lat) 238-9basketball 396Bastion Passages (Est) 63bathrooms 422Bauska (Lat) 251-2beaches 22

Curonian Spit National Park (Lith) 373

Giruliai (Lith) 367Haapsalu (Est) 145Jūrmala (Lat) 228Kaberneeme (Est) 88Kärdla (Est) 161Kauksi (Est) 102Kuressaare (Est) 153Liepāja (Lat) 243Melnragė (Lith) 367Otepää (Est) 125Pärnu (Est) 134Pirita (Est) 67Saaremaa (Est) 151Saulkrasti (Lat) 255Tartu (Est) 111Ventspils (Lat) 239

beer 111, 360, 401, see also breweries

Belarus border crossing 425berrying 41-2, 43bicycle travel, see cyclingbirdwatching 42-3

Estonia 42, 92Haapsalu Bay (Est) 143

Juodkrantė (Lith) 375Ķemeri (Lat) 233Lake Engure Nature Park

(Lat) 235Lake Lubāns (Lat) 277Latvia 43Lithuania 43Matsalu National Park

(Est) 146, 40Nemunas Delta (Lith)

382, 383Vilsandi National Park

(Est) 157Birštonas (Lith) 354-5Biržai (Lith) 359-60Black Balzām (Lat) 283boat travel 427-9, 428boat trips

Gauja National Park (Lat) 261

Helsinki 187Lake Rāzna (Lat) 277Nida (Lith) 379Tallinn (Est) 69

bobsledding 263books

Estonia 174-5Lithuania 391, 397-8

border crossings 120, 425-6

breweriesSaaremaa (Est) 149Švyturys (Lith) 366Valmiera (Lat) 269

budget 19bus travel 426, 429-30,

431-2business hours 421

Ccable cars 334-5canoeing & kayaking 41

Cēsis (Lat) 266Dzūkija National Park

(Lith) 336Gauja National Park (Lat)

261, 263

Labanoras Regional Park (Lith) 332

Otepää (Est) 127Cape Kolka (Lat) 235-8car travel 34-6, 426, 430-1castles & fortresses 10,

22, see also palaces & manor houses

Alatskivi Castle (Est) 104

Bauska Castle (Lat) 251-2

Bīriņi Castle (Lat) 268Biržai Castle (Lith) 359Cēsis Castle (Lat) 266,

11, 236Daugavpils Fortress

(Lat) 270Dikli Castle (Lat) 268Gediminas Castle (Lith)

289Haapsalu Episcopal Castle

(Est) 142-3Jaunpils Castle (Lat)

254Klaipėda Castle (Lith)

365-6Kuressaare Episcopal

Castle (Est) 152, 94Livonian Order Castle

(Sigulda; Lat) 258Livonian Order Castle

(Ventspils; Lat) 240Maasilinnus (Est) 149Narva Castle (Est) 100Patarei (Est) 65Rakvere Castle (Est)

96, 23Rīga Castle (Lat) 202Sangaste Castle (Est)

124-5Sigulda Castle Complex

(Lat) 258-9, 261Suomenlinna (Hel) 183Toompea Castle (Est) 62Trakai Castle (Lith) 320-1,

324-5Turaida Museum Reserve

(Lat) 261


443IN

DEX C

-D Vastseliina Episcopal

Castle (Est) 118Viljandi Teutonic Order

Castle (Est) 129-30cathedrals, see churches &

cathedrals cell phones 18, 422cemeteries

Antakalnis Cemetery (Lith) 303

Aukštieji Šančiai Cemetery (Lith) 344

Nida Cemetery (Lith) 377

Rīga Brethren Cemetery (Lat) 214

central Lithuania 338-62, 339

Cēsis (Lat) 266-9, 267children, travel with 44-6

Rīga (Lat) 214Tallinn (Est) 68Vilnius (Lith) 309

Christmas 29trees 197

churches & cathedralsAglona Basilica (Lat)

275Alexander Church (Est)

100Alexander Nevsky

Orthodox Cathedral (Est) 61-2

Apriki Lutheran Basilica (Lat) 249

Bernadine Church & Monastery (Lith) 295

Cathedral of Christ the Saviour (Kal) 409

Chapel of the Gates of Dawn (Lith) 301

Christ’s Resurrection Basilica (Lith) 344

Church of the Holy Trinity (Uniates) & Basilian Monastery (Lith) 301

Church of the Nativity of the Mother of God (Est) 97

Church of the Saint Virgin’s Apparition (Lith) 304

Church of the Visitation of the Blessed Virgin Mary (Lith) 321

Holy Spirit Lutheran Church (Est) 56

Holy Trinity Church (Est) 97

Jēzus Baznīca (Lat) 210Joy of All Who Sorrow

Church (Lith) 333

Kaliningrad Cathedral (Kal) 408

Kenessa (Lith) 321Mary Queen of Peace

Church (Lith) 366Nativity of Christ

Cathedral (Lat) 207Orthodox Cathedral of

the Resurrection (Est) 100-1

Orthodox Church of the Holy Spirit (Lith) 301

Pühalepa (Est) 163Rīga Cathedral (Lat)

201St Andrew’s Lutheran

Church (Est) 125St Anne’s Church (Lith)

295St Bartholomew’s

Lutheran Church (Est) 110

St Casimir’s Church (Lith) 302

St Catherine’s Church (Est) 57

St Catherine’s Lutheran Church (Est) 121

St Catherine’s Lutheran Church, Karja (Est) 150

St Catherine’s Orthodox Church (Pärnu; Est) 135

St Catherine’s Orthodox Church (Võru; Est) 121

St Elizabeth’s Lutheran Church (Est) 135

St Gertrude Church (Lat) 209

St James’ Cathedral (Lat) 202

St John’s Church (Cēsis; Lat) 266

St John’s Church (Rīga; Lat) 198-9

St John’s Lutheran Church (Haapsalu; Est) 143

St John’s Lutheran Church (Tartu; Est) 109

St John’s Lutheran Church (Valga; Est) 124

St John’s Lutheran Church (Viljandi; Est) 130-1

St Katrīna’s Church (Lat) 247

St Lawrence’s Lutheran Church (Est) 153

St Mary’s Church (Est) 149

St Mary’s Lutheran Cathedral (Est) 61

St Mary’s Lutheran Church (Haanja Nature Park; Est) 122

St Mary’s Lutheran Church (Otepää; Est) 125

St Michael the Archangel Church (Kaunas; Lith) 343

St Michael the Archangel Church (Vilnius; Lith) 300

St Michael’s Lutheran Church (Est) 158

St Nicholas Church (Lith) 302

St Nicholas Maritime Cathedral (Lat) 244

St Nicholas’ Orthodox Church (Kihnu; Est) 140

St Nicholas’ Orthodox Church (Kuressaare; Est) 153

St Nicholas’ Orthodox Church (Tallinn; Est) 57

St Olaf’s Church (Est) 60-1

St Paul’s Lutheran Church (Est) 131

St Peter & Paul Church (Lith) 303

St Peter & St Paul’s Catholic Cathedral (Est) 57

St Peter-Paul Orthodox Church (Lat) 233

St Peter’s Church (Lat) 197

St Simon’s Church (Lat) 269

St Teresa’s Church (Lith) 302

Sts Johns’ Church (Lith) 295

Sts Peter & Paul Cathedral (Lith) 343

Temppeliaukion Kirkko (Hel) 185

Tuomiokirkko (Hel) 184Uspenskin Katedraali

(Hel) 184Vilnius Cathedral (Lith)

293-4Vytautas Church (Lith)

340Zlēku Baznīca (Lat) 249

cinemaEstonia 175Latvia 281-2Lithuania 398

climate 18, 25-9, 418, see also individual regions

consulates 419Estonia 178Latvia 285Lithuania 403

convents, see monasteries & convents

cooking courses 147costs

Estonia 176, 178Latvia 285, 286Lithuania 402, 403

courses 72, 147crafts 317, 337, 396-7 credit cards 421culture

Estonia 172-6Latvia 281-3Lithuania 395-9

Curonian Lagoon 41, 378, 382, 40

Curonian Spit National Park (Lith) 8, 372-82, 374, 9

currency 18customs regulations 418

Estonia 178Latvia 285Lithuania 403

cycling 38, 425, 431Curonian Spit National

Park (Lith) 380Helsinki 192Käsmu (Est) 91Labanoras Regional Park

(Lith) 332Muhu (Est) 147Sigulda (Lat) 263Žemaitija National Park

(Lith) 390

Ddance 282dangers, see safetyDaugava River Valley (Lat)

254-5Daugavpils (Lat) 270-3disabilities, travellers

with 416Dobele (Lat) 253drinks, see also beer

Black Balzām 283Estonia 176-7Latvia 219, 283-5Lithuania 401

driving, see car travelDruskininkai (Lith) 332-6,

334

444

IND

EX D-K

Dudayev, Dzhokhar 171dunes

Nemirseta (Lith) 389Parnidis Dune (Lith) 377Vecekrugas Dune (Lith)

376

Eeastern Lithuania 327-38,

327economy

Estonia 166-7Latvia 280-1Lithuania 391, 394

Ēdole (Lat) 249Eesti 169electric scooters 431electricity 419embassies 419


emergencies 19language 434, 435, 437

environmental issues 21, 279

Estonia 47, 50-180, 89, 103, 129, 142

accommodation 50, 178arts 173-6climate 50costs 176, 178culture 172-6customs regulations 178drinks 176-7economy 166-7embassies & consulates

178food 21, 50, 176-8highlights 52-3, 52-3history 112, 133, 168-72internet access 178-9language 56, 86, 121, 173,

177, 433-4money 179politics 167population 172-3public holidays 179telephone services

179tourist information

179travel seasons 50travel to/from 179-80travel within 180

etiquette 395events, see festivals &

eventsexchange rates 19

Fferry travel 427-9, 428festivals & events 25-9,

see also individual locations

filmsEstonia 175Latvia 281-2Lithuania 398

fishing 41food, see also individual

countries, locationsberrying 41-2, 43Estonia 21, 50, 176-8foraged food 14language 177, 284, 400,

434, 435, 437Latvia 193, 219, 283-5Lithuania 20, 288,

399-402mushrooming 41-2, 14

Forest Brothers (Est) 133forests, see also national

parks & nature reserves, parks & gardens

Fairy Tale Forest (Lat) 253

Pokaiņi Forest (Lat) 254

Rakvere Oak Grove (Est) 96

fortresses, see castles & fortresses

Ggalleries, see museums &

galleriesgardens, see parks &

gardens Gauja National Park

(Lat) 13, 258-69, 259, 12

gay travellers, see LGBTIQ+ travellers

golf 153government

Estonia 167Latvia 280-1Lithuania 394-5

Gūtmaņa Cave (Lat) 261

HHaapsalu (Est) 141-6,

144health 419

Helsinki 181-92, 186accommodation 181,

188, 189activities 187climate 181costs 189drinking & nightlife 190entertainment 190festivals & events 188food 181, 188-90highlights 182, 182history 191itineraries 185money 184politics 191shopping 190-1sights 183-5tourist offices 191tours 187-8travel seasons 181travel to/from 192travel within 192visas 183

Hiiumaa (Est) 158-65, 160hiking 39

Dzūkija National Park (Lith) 336-7

Karula National Park (Est) 123

Kolka Pine Trail (Lat) 238Lahemaa National Park

(Est) 91-2Setomaa (Est) 118Sigulda (Lat) 263Slītere Nature Trail

(Lat) 239Soomaa National Park

(Est) 133Hill of Crosses (Lith) 13,

355-7, 358, 13historic buildings & sites

Blackheads House (Lat) 197

Cat House (Lat) 201House of Perkūnas (Lith)

339-40Irbene Radio Telescope

(Lat) 239Latvian Academy of

Science Observation Deck (Lat) 210

Laube’s House (Lat) 211Mentzendorff’s House

(Lat) 197Soviet Secret Bunker

(Lat) 265Three Brothers (Lat)

201-2, 5TV Tower (Lith) 304Vilnius University (Lith)

295

history, see also Jewish history & culture, individual locations

Estonia 112, 133, 168-72Latvia 232, 278-81Lithuania 323, 391-5

hitching 431holidays


horse riding 43Kassari (Est) 165Krāslava (Lat) 275Lahemaa National Park

(Est) 92Saaremaa (Est) 149

hot-air ballooning 304, 306

Iice skating 69-70Ignalina Nuclear Power

Station (Lith) 331-2insect bites & stings 419insurance 419-20internet access 420

Estonia 178-9Latvia 285Lithuania 404

internet resources 19, 21, 281, 420

itineraries 30-3Helsinki 185Kaliningrad 409Rīga (Lat) 203 Tallinn (Est) 57Vilnius (Lith) 307

JJaunpils (Lat) 254Jewish history & culture 24,

see also synagoguesLatvia 208, 232, 271Lithuania 300-1, 346,

396Juodkrantė (Lith) 374-6Jūrmala (Lat) 16, 227-32,

230, 16

KKaberneeme (Est) 88Käina (Est) 163-4Kaliningrad 21, 406-14, 410

accommodation 406, 409-11, 414

activities 408-9climate 406costs 414


445IN

DEX K

-M

drinking & nightlife 412entertainment 413food 406, 411-12, 414highlights 407, 407history 413itineraries 409medical services 414money 408politics 413sights 408-9tourist offices 414travel seasons 406travel to/from 414travel within 414visas 414

Kaljulaid, Kersti 167Kallaste (Est) 102Kant Island (Kal) 408Kärdla (Est) 159, 161Käsmu (Est) 91Kassari (Est) 164-5Kauksi (Est) 102Kaunas (Lith) 338-52,

340-1accommodation 345-7drinking & nightlife 349entertainment 350festivals & events 345food 347-9history 338, 344medical services 350shopping 350sights 338-45tourist offices 350travel to/from 351travel within 351-2

kayaking, see canoeing & kayaking

Kėdainiai (Lith) 352-4, 353Keila-Joa (Est) 87Ķemeri (Lat) 232-3Kernavė (Lith) 323-6Kihnu (Est) 140-1kiiking 174Klaipėda (Lith) 362-72,

364-5accommodation 367-8drinking & nightlife

369-70entertainment 370festivals & events 367food 368-9history 362, 365shopping 370-1sights 365-7tourist offices 371travel to/from 371travel within 371-2

Koidula (Est) 120

Kolkasrags (Lat) 235-8Kolkja (Est) 102, 104Košrags (Lat) 238Krāslava (Lat) 274-5Kretinga (Lith) 389Kuldīga (Lat) 246-9,

247, 34Kuressaare (Est) 152-6, 154Kurzeme Coast (Lat) 17,

235, 17Kurzeme (Lat) 233-50

LLāčplēsis (Lat) 222Lahemaa National Park

(Est) 17, 88-96, 90, 17, 94

lakesÄhijärv (Est) 123Kaali (Est) 151-2Lake Baluošas (Lith) 328Lake Lubāns (Lat) 277Lake Peipsi (Est) 102,

104-5Lake Plateliai (Lith) 390Lake Rāzna (Lat) 277Lake Rubikiai (Lith) 360Lake Tauragnas (Lith)

328Pühajärv (Est) 125Suurjärv (Est) 122Viljandi järv (Est) 131

language courses 72languages

Estonian 56, 86, 121, 173, 177, 433-4

Latvian 202, 284, 434-6Lithuanian 303, 400,

436-7Latgale (Lat) 270-8, 272Latvia 48, 193-287, 234,

251, 256, 272accommodation 193,

285, 286activities 285arts 281-3climate 193costs 285, 286culture 281-3customs regulations 285drinks 219, 283-5economy 280-1embassies & consulates

285festivals & events 282food 193, 219, 283-5highlights 194-5, 194-5history 232, 278-81internet access 285

internet resources 281language 202, 284, 434-6maps 285money 286politics 280-1population 274, 278, 281postal services 286public holidays 286telephone services 286tourist information 286travel seasons 193travel to/from 286travel within 287

legal matters 420LGBTIQ+ travellers 420-1

Estonia 82, 179Lithuania 315

librariesEstonian National

Library (Est) 69Latvian National Library

(Lat) 212Liepāja (Lat) 242-6, 244Līgatne (Lat) 265lighthouses

Kiipsaare Lighthouse (Est) 158

Kolka Lighthouse (Lat) 235

Kõpu Lighthouse (Est) 162

Mērsrags Lighthouse (Lat) 235

Ristna Lighthouse (Est) 162

Saxby Lighthouse (Est) 166

Slītere (Lat) 239Sõrve Lighthouse (Est)

157Tahkuna Lighthouse

(Est) 162Liiv, Juhan 104Linnahall (Est) 69Lipka Tatars (Lith) 323Liškiava (Lith) 336literature

Estonia 174-5Lithuania 391, 397-8

Lithuania 48, 288-405, 327, 330-1, 339, 363

accommodation 288, 402-3

activities 403arts 396-9climate 288costs 402, 403culture 395-9customs regulations 403drinks 401

economy 391, 394embassies & consulates

403food 20, 288, 399-402highlights 290-1, 290-1history 323, 391-5internet access 404language 303, 400, 436-7money 404politics 391, 394-5population 395postal services 404public holidays 404telephone services 404tourist information 404travel seasons 288travel to/from 404-5travel within 405

Lithuanian Song & Dance Festival (Lith) 27, 306

Liv people 238, 239Ludza (Lat) 277-8

MMake Everything Great

Again Mural (Lith) 298-9

manor houses, see palaces & manor houses

maps 179, 285, 421marijuana 420markets

Liepāja (Lat) 243Rīga (Lat) 210Tallinn (Est) 84

Mazirbe (Lat) 238-9measures 420medical services 419memorials & monuments

Biķernieki Memorial (Lat) 232

Field of Sacrifice (Lith) 344

Frank Zappa Memorial (Lith) 302-3

Freedom Monument (Lat) 203, 206-7

Garden of Destiny (Lat) 254

Grieving Girl (Est) 102Hill of Crosses (Est)

163Hill of Crosses (Lith) 13,

355-7, 358, 13Holocaust Memorial

(Lat) 211Holocaust Memorial

(Lith) 352-3Jan Zwartendijk

Memorial (Lith) 346

446

IND

EX M

memorials & monuments continued

Latvian Riflemen Monument (Lat) 197

Lietūkis Garage Massacre Memorial (Lith) 346

Maarjamäe War Memorial (Est) 67

Māra (Lat) 276memorials to the victims

of 20 January 1991 (Lat) 203

Paneriai Holocaust Memorial (Lith) 322

Salaspils Concentration Camp Memorial (Lat) 232

Šķēde Dunes Holocaust Memorial (Lat) 243

Tarvas Statue (Est) 96Tehumardi Night Battle

Monument (Est) 156Three Crosses (Lith) 303Užupis Angel (Lith) 304Valga Prison Camp

Cemetery (Est) 124Victory Monument

(Lat) 212Žanis Lipke Memorial

(Lat) 211Merkinė (Lith) 336Metsavennad (Est) 133Midsummer Day 42Midsummer’s Eve 15, 26,

42, 15mobile phones 18, 422Molėtai (Lith) 337monasteries & convents

Liškiava Monastery (Lith) 337

Padise Monastery (Est) 87-8

Pažaislis Monastery (Lith) 345

Pechory (Russia) 119Pühtitsa Convent (Est)

100money 18, 19, 418, 421


monuments, see memorials & monuments

mosques 343motorcycle travel 35-6,

426, 430-1

MS Estonia 164Muhu (Est) 146-8, 150-1museums & galleries 22

A Le Coq Beer Museum (Est) 111

Adamson-Eric Museum (Est) 61

Altes Haus (Kal) 409Amber Gallery (Lith) 377Amber Museum (Kal) 408Amber Museum (Lith)

384Amber Museum-Gallery

(Lith) 298Amber Processing

Gallery (Lith) 384Andrupene Farmstead

Museum (Lat) 274Antanas Mončys

House Museum (Lith) 384-5

Archaeological & Historical Museum (Lith) 326

Arnett House (Lith) 352Arsenāls Exhibition Hall

(Lat) 202Art Museum Rīga Bourse

(Lat) 201Art Rezidence ‘Inner

Light’ (Lat) 229Artillery Bastion (Lith)

301Ateneum (Hel) 184-5Baroti Gallery (Lith)

367Bicycle Museum (Lat)

255Bicycle Museum (Lith)

357Blacksmith’s Museum

(Lith) 366Bread Museum (Lat) 275Bunker Museum (Kal)

409Citizen’s Home Museum

(Est) 109Citizen’s House Museum

(Est) 96-7City Museum (Est) 57Clock Museum (Lith)

367Cold War Museum (Lith)

389-90Contemporary Art

Centre (Lith) 302Corner House (Lat) 208Daugavpils Mark Rothko

Art Centre (Lat) 270-1Dr F R Kreutzwald

Memorial Museum (Est) 120-1

Dzūkija National Park Ethnographic Homestead (Lith) 337

Ehrensvärd-Museo (Hel) 183

Energy & Technology Museum (Lith) 304

Estonian Museum of Contemporary Art (Est) 65

Estonian National Museum (Est) 111

Estonian Open-Air Museum (Est) 68

Estonian Sports & Olympic Museum (Est) 109

Ethnographic Farmstead Museum (Lith) 382

Ethnographic Fisherman’s Museum (Lith) 377-8

Ethnographic Sea Fishermen’s Farmstead (Lith) 373-4

Europos Parkas Sculpture Park (Lith) 326

Exile & Resistance Museum (Lith) 385

Exposition of the National Park of the Curonian Spit (Lith) 373

Fat Margaret (Est) 57, 60Forest Museum (Est) 89Frenkelis Villa (Lith) 357Friedland Gate (Kal) 409Girios Aidas (Lith) 333Great Guild Hall (Est) 56Grūtas Park (Lith)

333, 16Helsingin

Kaupunginmuseo (Hel) 185

Hiiumaa Military Museum (Est) 162

History & Arts Museum (Kal) 409

History Museum of Lithuania Minor (Lith) 366

Holocaust Museum (Lith) 300

Horse Museum (Lith) 361Hotel Viru KGB Museum

(Est) 65House of Crafts (Lat)

240-1House of Craftsmen

(Lat) 243House of Peter I (Est)

66, 95

House of Signatories (Lith) 295

Ilon’s Wonderland (Est) 143

Janina Monkutė-Marks Museum-Gallery (Lith) 352

Janis Rozentāls & Rūdolfs Blaumanis Museum (Lat) 208

Jews in Latvia Museum (Lat) 208

Johannes & Joosep Aavik’s Memorial Museum (Est) 153

Jūrmala City Museum (Lat) 229

Jūrmala Open Air Museum (Lat) 228-9

Kadriorg Art Museum (Est) 65-6

Kaliningrad Art Gallery (Kal) 408

Kansallismuseo (Hel) 185

Karaite Ethnographic Museum (Lith) 321

Käsmu Sea Museum (Est) 91

Kassari Exposition Building (Est) 164

Kaunas Museum for the Blind (Lith) 343

Kaunas Photography Gallery (Lith) 340

Kaunas Picture Gallery (Lith) 344

Kazys Varnelis Museum (Lith) 299

Kėdainiai Regional Museum (Lith) 352

KGB Cells Museum (Est) 111

Kiasma (Hel) 184Kiemo Galerija (Lith)

343Kihnu Museum (Est) 140Klaipėda Castle Museum

(Lith) 365-6Klaipėda Sculpture Park

(Lith) 367Koguva Kunstitall (Est)

147Kolkja Old Believers’

Museum (Est) 104Kondas Centre (Est) 131Kretinga Museum (Lith)

389Kuldīga Historic Museum

(Lat) 247Kumu (Est) 67, 23Laima Chocolate

Museum (Lat) 209-10Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

447IN

DEX M

-N

Latvian Ethnographic Open-Air Museum (Lat) 214

Latvian Museum of Architecture (Lat) 202

Latvian National Museum of Art (Lat) 207

Latvian National Museum of History (Lat) 208-9

Latvian Photography Museum (Lat) 199

Latvian War Museum (Lat) 202

Liepāja Museum (Lat) 243

Liepāja Under Occupation Museum (Lat) 243

Liiv Museum (Est) 104Lithuanian

Ethnocosmology Museum (Lith) 337

Lithuania Sea Museum (Lith) 373

Maarjamäe History Centre (Est) 67

Maironis Lithuanian Literary Museum (Lith) 341

Medicine & Pharmaceutical History Museum (Lith) 340

Mickiewicz Memorial Apartment & Museum (Lith) 300

Mihkli Farm Museum (Hiiumaa; Est) 162

Mihkli Farm Museum (Saaremaa; Est) 158

Mikkel Museum (Est) 66MK Čiurlionis House

(Lith) 300MK Čiurlionis Memorial

Museum (Lith) 333MK Čiurlionis National

Museum of Art (Lith) 343-4

MO Museum (Lith) 302Muhu Museum (Est)

146-7Museum 39/45 (Lith)

365Museum of Ancient

Beekeeping (Lith) 328Museum of Applied Art

(Lith) 292Museum of Armed

Resistance & Exile (Lith) 333

Museum of Cats (Lith) 357

Museum of Decorative Arts & Design (Lat) 197-8

Museum of Deportation & Resistance (Lith) 344

Museum of Devils (Lith) 344

Museum of Genocide Victims (Lith) 304

Museum of New Art (Est) 134

Museum of the Barricades of 1991 (Lat) 201

Museum of the Estonian Swedes (Est) 143-4

Museum of the Occupation of Latvia (Lat) 207

Museum of the World Ocean (Kal) 408

Mykolas Žilinskas Art Gallery (Lith) 343

Narrow-Gauge Railway Museum (Lith) 361

Narva Art Gallery (Est) 100

Narva Museum (Est) 100National Museum of

Lithuania (Lith) 294Neringa History Museum

(Lith) 377Niguliste Museum

(Est) 61Ninth Fort (Lith) 344-5Nuku (Est) 68Obinitsa Seto Museum

(Est) 118Open-Air Museum of

Lithuania (Lith) 345Otepää Winter Sports

Museum (Est) 125-6Palace of the Grand

Dukes of Lithuania (Lith) 293

Palamuse Museum (Est) 110

Pärnu Museum (Est) 135Pedvāle Art Park (Lat)

250, 236Photography Museum

(Lith) 357Plateliai Manor (Lith)

390Popular Front Museum

(Lat) 200Povilas Stulga

Lithuanian Folk Music Instruments Museum (Lith) 342-3

Pranas Domšaitis Gallery (Lith) 367

Radio & Television Museum (Lith) 357

Radvilos Palace (Lith) 302

Railway & Communication Museum (Est) 144-5

Rīga Art Nouveau Museum (Lat) 208

Rīga Ghetto & Latvian Holocaust Museum (Lat) 210

Rīga History & Navigation Museum (Lat) 201

Rīga Motor Museum (Lat) 214

Rīga Porcelain Museum (Lat) 199

Rudolf Tobias House Museum (Est) 163

Saaremaa Museum (Est) 152

Sacred Art Exhibition (Lith) 322

Samuel Bak Museum (Lith) 301

Science Centre AHHAA (Est) 110

Seaplane Harbour (Est) 63-5

Seaside Open-Air Museum (Lat) 239-40

Seto Farm Museum (Est) 118

Seurasaaren Ulkomuseo (Hel) 185

Sillamäe Museum (Est) 98

Sõru Museum (Est) 162-3

Sõrve Military Museum (Est) 156-7

Sotamuseo Maneesi (Hel) 183

Soviet-Era Sillamäe (Est) 98

Sugihara House (Lith) 346

Suomnelinna Toy Museum (Hel) 183-4

Suomenlinna-Museo (Hel) 183

Tadas Ivanauskas Zoological Museum (Lith) 343

Tartu Art Museum (Est) 107

Tartu Toy Museum (Est) 109

Tartu University Art Museum (Est) 108-9

Theatre, Music & Cinema Museum (Lith) 302

Thomas Mann Memorial Museum (Lith) 378

Tolerance Centre (Lith) 300-1

Toy Museum (Lith) 295Trakai History Museum

(Lith) 321University of Tartu

Museum (Est) 109-10, 94-5

Uostadvaris Polder Museum (Lith) 382

Užupis Art Incubator (Lith) 303

Vabamu Museum of Occupations & Freedom (Est) 63

Valga Museum (Est) 124Valmieras Muzejs (Lat)

269Viinistu Art Museum

(Est) 91Viljandi Museum (Est)

131Vilnius Picture Gallery

(Lith) 299Vormsi Farm Museum

(Est) 166Võru County Museum

(Est) 121Vytautas the Great War

Museum (Lith) 344Witches’ Hill (Lith) 375,

325Wooden Toy Museum

(Lat) 250Žemaitija Art Museum

(Lith) 390mushrooming 41-2, 14music

Estonia 173-4Latvia 282Lithuania 398-9

Mustvee (Est) 102

NNarva (Est) 99-101Narva-Jõesuu (Est) 101national parks & nature

reserves 24, see also forests, parks & gardens

Aukštaitija National Park (Lith) 328-30, 329, 36

Biržai Regional Park (Lith) 359-60

Čepkeliai Strict Nature Reserve (Lith) 337

Curonian Spit National Park (Lith) 8, 372-82, 374, 9

448

IND

EX N-R

national parks & nature reserves continued

Dzūkija National Park (Lith) 336-8

Gauja National Park (Lat) 13, 258-69, 259, 12

Haanja Nature Park (Est) 122-3

Karula National Park (Est) 123

Ķemeri National Park (Lat) 232

Kurshskaya Kosa National Park (Kal) 413

Labanoras Regional Park (Lith) 332

Lahemaa National Park (Est) 17, 88-96, 90, 17, 94

Lake Engure Nature Park (Lat) 235

Līgatne Nature Trails (Lat) 265

Luhasoo Nature Reserve (Est) 122

Matsalu National Park (Est) 146, 40

Naglių Strict Nature Reserve (Lith) 376

Nemunas Delta Regional Park (Lith) 382

Ontika Nature Reserve (Est) 99

Ragakāpa Nature Park (Lat) 229

Rāzna National Park (Lat) 277

Slītere National Park (Lat) 239

Soomaa National Park (Est) 132-4

Teiči Nature Reserve (Lat) 254

Viidumäe Nature Reserve (Est) 158

Vilsandi National Park (Est) 157

Vormsi Landscape Reserve (Est) 166

Žemaitija National Park (Lith) 389-90

Nemėžis (Lith) 323Nemirseta (Lith) 389Nemunas Delta (Lith)

382-4newspapers 420

Nida (Lith) 377-82, 378northeastern Latvia 255-69,

256northern Estonia 88-101,

89nuclear power stations

331-2

Oobservatories

Molėtai Astronomical Observatory (Lith) 337

Tartu Old Observatory (Est) 110

opening hours 421Orissaare (Est) 149ostrich farms 147Otepää (Est) 125-8, 126

PPadise (Est) 87-8palaces & manor houses

10, 24, see also castles & fortresses

Kolga (Est) 87Maarjamäe Palace

(Est) 67Padise Manor (Est)

88Palmse Manor (Est)

89Põhjaka (Est) 87Presidential Palace

(Est) 66Presidential Palace (Lith)

295, 298Presidential Palace

of Lithuania (Lith) 341-2

Rundāle Palace (Lat) 252-3

Sagadi Manor (Est) 89Suuremõisa Manor

(Est) 163Ungurmuiža (Lat) 268

Palamuse (Est) 110Palanga (Lith) 384-9, 386Palūšė (Lith) 328parks & gardens, see also

forests, national parks & nature reserves

Doll Garden (Lat) 250Esplanāde (Lat) 207Garden of Destiny

(Lat) 21Institute of Horticulture

(Lat) 253Kadriorg Park (Est) 65Ķemeri Park (Lat) 233Linda Hill (Est) 62

Oru Park (Est) 99Orvydas Garden (Lith)

389Pilsētas Kanāls (Lat)

202-3Raadi Manor Park

(Est) 111Seaside Park (Lat)

243Tallinn Botanic Garden

(Est) 68Tartu University

Botanical Gardens (Est) 109

Tērvete Nature Park (Lat) 253

Town Garden (Lat) 246Vērmanes dārzs (Lat)

207Vienkoču Parks (Lat)

265Pärnu (Est) 15, 134-40,

136, 15Pärnu River (Est) 20,

132, 134passports 422, 424Patarei (Est) 21Pāvilosta (Lat) 241-2Pechory (Russia) 119pirts 264Piusa Caves (Est) 118planning, see also individual

countriesactivities 37-43Baltic basics 18-19Baltic regions 47-8budgeting 19calendar of events

25-9children, travel with

44-6internet resources 19, 21itineraries 30-3repeat visitors 20-1road trips 34-6travel seasons 18, 25-9

Plateliai (Lith) 389Pöide (Est) 149Pokaiņi Forest (Lat) 254politics

Estonia 167Latvia 280-1Lithuania 391, 394-5

populationEstonia 172-3Latvia 274, 278, 281Lithuania 395

Positivus (Lat) 27postal services 286, 404,

421-2

prisonsKarosta Prison (Lat)

244-5KGB Cells Museum

(Est) 111Patarei (Est) 65

public holidaysEstonia 179Latvia 286Lithuania 404

Pumpurs, Andrejs 222

Rradio 420rafting 41, see also

canoeing & kayakingRakvere (Est) 96-8religion

Estonia 173Latvia 281Lithuania 358, 392

Rēzekne (Lat) 275-6ridesharing 432Rīga (Lat) 13, 20, 196-227,

198-9, 204-5accommodation 216-17activities 214children, travel with 214drinking & nightlife 221-4entertainment 224-5festivals & events 21, 215food 217-21history 196internet access 226itineraries 203medical services 226postal services 226shopping 225-6sights 196-214tourist offices 226tours 214-15travel to/from 226-7travel within 227walking tour 212-13, 213

road trips 34-6Rothko, Mark 270-1Rõuge (Est) 122ruins, see also

archaeological sitesKaunas Castle (Lith)

341Kokenhausen (Lat)

254Ludza Castle (Lat) 278Otepää Hill Fort (Est)

125Peninsula Castle (Lith)

321-2Pirita Convent (Est) 67-8


449IN

DEX R

-W

Rusnė Island (Lith) 382Russian border crossing

120, 425-6Russian Old Believers (Est)

102, 104

SSääre Tirp (Est) 164Saaremaa (Est) 17, 148-58,

150-1, 17Sabile (Lat) 250safety

hitching 431road 36, 430-1

sagas 222Sangaste (Est) 124-5Saulkrasti (Lat) 255, 257saunas & spas 14, 38-9

Birštonas (Lith) 354Druskininkai (Lith) 336Estonia 38Haapsalu (Est) 145Helsinki 187Jūrmala (Lat) 229Latvia 38, 264Lithuania 38Pärnu (Est) 135Rīga (Lat) 214Tallinn (Est) 69

scooters 21, 431senior travellers 418Seto people 119Setomaa (Est) 118-20Šiauliai (Lith) 355-9, 356Sigulda (Lat) 258-65,

260, 262Sillamäe (Est) 98Šilutė (Lith) 382skiing 43

Anykščiai (Lith) 361Cēsis (Lat) 266Otepää (Est) 127

Slutišķi (Lat) 274Smiltynė (Lith) 373-4smoking 420solstice 15, 26, 42Song & Dance Festival 27,

306, 236-7southeastern Latvia 270-8,

272southern Estonia 101-41,

103southern Latvia 250-5, 251southern Lithuania 327-38,

330-1southwest Estonia 128-41,

129Soviet relics 16spas, see saunas & spas

storks 333Suiti people 242Suomenlinna (Hel) 183surfing 163sustainability 21Suur Munamägi (Est) 122Suuremõisa (Est) 163Šventoji (Lith) 389synagogues

Choral Synagogue (Kaunas; Lith) 346

Choral Synagogue (Vilnius; Lith) 301

Daugavpils Synagogue (Lat) 271

Green Synagogue (Lat) 276

Rīga Synagogue (Lat) 199-200

TTagamõisa Peninsula

(Est) 158Tallinn (Est) 8, 51-87,

54-5, 58-9, 62, 64, 66, 8-9

accommodation 73-6activities 69-70children, travel with 68drinking & nightlife

79-82entertainment 82-3festivals & events 72-3food 21, 76-9history 51, 54-5itineraries 57medical services 84-5shopping 83-4sights 55-69tourist offices 84tours 70, 72travel to/from 85-6travel within 86-7walking tour 70-1, 71

Tallinn Black Nights Film Festival (Est) 29

Tartu (Est) 10, 105-17, 106-7, 11

accommodation 113-14activities 111-12drinking & nightlife

115-16entertainment 116festivals & events 112-13food 114-15history 105, 107shopping 117sights 105, 107-11tourist offices 117

travel to/from 117travel within 117

taxis 432telephone services 18, 422


Telliskivi Creative City (Est) 65

Tērvete (Lat) 253theatre

Estonia 175-6Lithuania 399

time 422tipping 404, 421toilets 422tourist information 422


tours 429, 432, see also individual locations

train travel 427, 432Trakai (Lith) 320-3, 321tram travel 431-2travel to/from the Baltics

424-9travel within the Baltics 19,

429-32trekking, see hikingtrolleybus travel 431-2tunnels 63TV 398, 420

UUpside Down House

(Est) 111Užupis Republic (Lith)

303, 306

Vvacations


Valga (Est) 123-4Valmiera (Lat) 269Vasknarva (Est) 102Veczemju klintis (Lat) 257vegetarian & vegan

travellers 21Ventspils (Lat) 239-41,

240Vidzeme (Lat) 255-69,

256viewpoints

Baltā Kāpa (Lat) 255Cape Kolka Point (Lat)

235

Panga Pank (Est) 151Suur Munamägi (Est)

122Vilnius (Lith) 314

Viljandi (Est) 129-32, 130Vilnius (Lith) 10, 289-320,

292-3, 296-7, 10, 324-5

accommodation 307-10activities 304-6children, travel with 309drinking & nightlife

313-15entertainment 315-16festivals & events

306-7food 310-13history 289internet resources 318itineraries 307medical services 318postal services 318shopping 316-18sights 289-304tourist offices 318tours 306travel to/from 318-19travel within 319-20walking tour 305, 305

Vilsandi (Est) 157Visaginas (Lith) 331-2visas 18, 422-3

Helsinki 183 Kaliningrad 414

volunteering 179, 423Vormsi (Est) 165-6, 160Võru (Est) 120-2

Wwalking, see hikingwalking tours

Rīga (Lat) 212-13, 213Sigulda (Lat) 262, 262Tallinn (Est) 70-1, 71Vilnius (Lith) 305, 305

wartime relics 24water, drinking 419water parks

Aqua Park (Lith) 336Kalev Spa Waterpark

(Est) 69Kuressaare (Est) 153Līvu Akvaparks (Lat)

229Pärnu (Est) 135Rakvere (Est) 97Tartu (Est) 112

water sports 41

450

IND

EX W-Z

waterfallsAlekšupīte Waterfall

(Lat) 247Kuldīga Waterfall (Lat)

246Schloss Fall (Est) 87Valaste juga (Est)

99weather 18, 25-9, 418websites, see internet

resources

weights 420western Estonia 141-66,

142western Latvia 233-50,

234western Lithuania 362-90,

363White Lady Festival (Est)

143wildlife 92windmills 150

Witches’ Hill (Lith) 375, 325

women travellers 423work 423

Yyachting 429Yantarny Amber Mine

(Kal) 413

ZZemgale (Lat) 250-5, 251Zervynos (Lith) 336zip lining 263Zlēkas (Lat) 249zoos

Rīga National Zoo (Lat) 214

Tallinn Zoo (Est) 68-9


451N

OTES

452

NO

TES

453N

OTES

Send your ‘Lonely Planet in the Wild’ photos to [email protected] We share the best on our Facebook page every week!

JUST

IN

LONELY PLANET WILDIN THE

455

Walking Tour detourWalking Tour

Path/Walking Trail

BankEmbassy/ConsulateHospital/MedicalInternetPolicePost OfficeTelephoneToiletTourist InformationOther Information

AirportBorder crossingBus

CyclingFerry

U-Bahn/Underground station

MonorailParking

Metro station

Petrol stationS-Bahn/Subway stationTaxi

Train station/RailwayTram

Other Transport

LighthouseHut/Shelter

Beach

LookoutMountain/VolcanoOasisParkPassPicnic AreaWaterfall

River, CreekIntermittent River

Swamp/Mangrove

Reef

Canal

Water

Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake

Glacier

Beach/Desert

Airport/Runway

Cemetery (Christian)

Cemetery (Other)

Park/Forest

Mudflat

Sportsground

Sight (Building)

International

DisputedRegional/SuburbMarine ParkCliffWall

Capital (National)Capital (State/Province)City/Large TownTown/Village

State/Province

LaneTertiary

TollwayFreewayPrimary

StepsPlaza/Mall

Pedestrian overpass

Secondary

Unsealed roadRoad under construction

Tunnel

Cable car/Funicular

BeachBird SanctuaryBuddhistCastle/PalaceChristianConfucianHinduIslamicJainJewishMonumentMuseum/Gallery/Historic BuildingRuin

Sento Hot Baths/Onsen

ShintoSikhTaoistWinery/VineyardZoo/Wildlife SanctuaryOther Sight

DivingBodysurfing

Sleeping

Eating

Entertainment

Shopping

Drinking & NightlifeCafe

CampingHut/Shelter

Canoeing/KayakingCourse/Tour

SkiingSnorkellingSurfingSwimming/PoolWalkingWindsurfingOther Activity

T-bane/Tunnelbana station

Gate

Information Routes

Boundaries

Hydrography

Areas

Geographic

Population

Transport

Sights

Activities,Courses & Tours

Sleeping

Eating

Drinking & Nightlife

Entertainment

ShoppingNote: Not all symbols displayed above appear on the maps in this book

Map Legend


OUR STORYA beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born.

Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Dublin, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.

Published by Lonely Planet Global LimitedCRN 5541538th edition – Jun 2020ISBN 978 1 78657 598 2© Lonely Planet 2020 Photographs © as indicated 202010 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1Printed in SingaporeAll rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip.

Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reasona-ble care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maximum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use.

OUR WRITERSAnna KaminskiLithuania, Kaliningrad Excursion Originally from the Soviet Union, Anna grew up in Cambridge, UK. She graduated from the University of Warwick with a degree in Comparative American Studies, a background in the history, culture and literature of the Americas and the Caribbean, and an enduring love of Latin America. Her restless wanderings led her to settle briefly in Oaxaca and Bangkok and her flir-tation with criminal law saw her volunteering as a lawyer’s assistant in the courts,

ghettos and prisons of Kingston, Jamaica. Anna has contributed to almost 30 Lonely Planet titles. For this guide, Anna also wrote the Plan Your Trip and Survival Guide chapters.

Hugh McNaughtanEstonia, Helsinki Excursion A former lecturer and restaurant critic from Mel-bourne, Australia, Hugh now uses London as a launching pad for forays into the Baltics and Eastern Europe. Scouring every inch of Estonia over the endless days of midsummer was a dream assignment.

Ryan Ver BerkmoesLatvia Ryan has written more than 110 guidebooks for Lonely Planet. He grew up in Santa Cruz, California, which he left at age 17 for college in the Midwest, where he first discovered snow. All joy of this novelty soon wore off. Since then he has been travelling the world, both for pleasure and for work – which are often indistinguish-able. He has covered everything from wars to bars. He definitely prefers the latter. Ryan calls New York City home. Read more at ryanverberkmoes.com and at @ryanvb.


© Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally restricted. In return, we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes only. In other words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying the above - ‘Do the right thing with our content.’


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