european road trip with john & coco

8/14/2019 European Road Trip with John & Coco

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A European Road Trip with John &

CocoJohn & Coco in Gigondas

Planning trips in the later years of your life are necessary but sometimes postponedone reason or another. My recent postponement was an encounter with cancer thatme more focused on living the day than planning for the future. It was now time to something, I didnt think would happen again, like traveling back to Europe. The platook several turns before magically coming together. I had first visited Italy 40 yearspending a year and, of course studying. Now in our sixties, Coco and felt compellefulfill a promise to our dear friend Chad to return to Italy after touring with him just to his death. With such great karma and our natural enthusiasm for travel, these twsomethings decide to step across the pond once again.

In early February we made the decision and began checking dates and our inventorairline miles. We settled on dates but soon realized that we were short on the milesunless we purchased the balance. Airlines charge you a premium for each additionamile and we momentarily decided to wait until next year in order to save enough mfor free tickets. Disappointed, we resolved that it was not meant to be at this time.

Three weeks later, out of the blue, United emailed a special promotion reducing themiles requirements by 20% which was mileage reduction we needed to use our cur


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miles without having to purchase any more miles. The only catch was that we had tcomplete travel by May 15th and that was fine with us. We also had a limited numbecities and available seats for our saver award tickets. The travel Gods had spokenwe set our dates. We now knew when and where we were arriving (Frankfurt) anddeparting and had to only fill in the rest of the trip. We had traveled on several

occasions by train but now preferred traveling by car on this trip. The car had becomour preferred travel mode mostly for the flexibility it offered in choosing roads lesstraveled.

To most people, planning a trip like this would be relatively easy but for John and Coplanning the first day became a sparring match from the get go. Coco was set on odriving a short distance after leaving Frankfurt and my idea was to travel no less ththree hours. Since we were arriving at 10AM we would be leaving the airport by 12clearing customs and renting the car. In the end we choose to drive for a few hourssince we had a great hotel already booked on line.

The month prior to departure Coco spent using Google maps to plot each segment

our trip. We have to purchase new printer cartridges as often as we changed ouritinerary. This was also an opportunity for Coco to research her ancestors on hermothers side to possibly include a visit to her great grandmothers birthplace. It toseveral trips to Powells Book Store to finally select an appropriate Europe Road Atla

As part of the road trip, we were planning to visit lifelong friends in Lugano, SaliceTerme, Italy plus visiting Cocos cousin from Boston who invited us to spend some twith them in Provence and a house they had taken for the month of May. Additionawe had a unique opportunity to visit our nephew Brian who would be exhibiting newdesigns from the architecture department at Columbia University in the InternationFurniture Design Show in Milan. Other than those dates our trip was open for discus

Early in our planning we also decided to leave the cell phones and computer at homand travel as we always had in years pastoff the communications grid.

The day had finally arrived. We boarded a united flight to San Francisco where we wconnect to a direct flight to Frankfurt. After a few boring airport hours we found ourhome in two exit row seats adjacent to the WC and narrower than what I rememberfrom my last international flight 5 years ago-maybe the seats hadnt changed as mas our bodies. The 747 was full, the tailwind was strong and we started our 10 hourjourney. Since the airlines began penny pinching, the impact to international cattleclass couldnt have been cut more. The meals were small tasteless portions of lasaor chicken. I was surprised to be told that my travel profile had been checked for Ko

For a moment I thought this could produce a surprise but in the end it only added todining disappointment. They even charged for drinks which used to be free oninternational flights. If traveling in economy again I would strongly consider purchasfood prior to the flight. On the brighter side, the movies were free but the headphowere still lousy.

Landing in Frankfurt, we wound our way to baggage and bathrooms. We also decidestop by the ticket counter to reset our return seats further from the WC. Arriving at


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Hertz counter we were told that they were out of cars and we had to wait an hour foappropriate car. They would have been happy to upgrade us to a Mercedes or BMWcould not given that Italy was part of our tour and not approved for these models gthe Italian taste for theft of these cars. In the end, we agreed to a 50 Euro reductionour rental rate for the inconvenience.

Leaving the Frankfurt Airport with little to no sleep and a concentrated focus on findthe A5 Autobahn south was a test for both of us. Entering the autobahn, I immediatfelt like we were standing still with cars zipping past us at 170km. Within a few minwas able to muster 140km while Coco screamed we were driving too fast. Having neaten much for the past twelve hours, we decided to stop at an autobahn service afor a bathroom break and something to eat. To our mutual frustration, we foundourselves without the appropriate change for the WC and had to make change at thespresso bar before we could relieve ourselves. This was an important issue given oincreasing age and our interdependence on knowing where and how we would reacour next nature call. We stocked up on change.

Pointing our way through the cafeteria ordering process, we settled on sharing a besoup and a lunch plate. After completing this cumbersome task we felt satisfied thhad arrived and even finished with an espresso. Reentering the autobahn with bathchange and a well earned experience on how to negotiate the next stop we pointedourselves toward Badenweiler where we had made a reservation via the e web a fedays earlier. The A5 from Frankfurt follows the west side of the Black Forest and(http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Black_Forest#Points_of_interest) sprinkled with CastlesSpa towns for several hours until reaching the Swiss city of Basel.

We had never been to this region before and everything was new. We knewthere were thermal baths in the town of Badenweiler but nothing compared

to what we were to find.Leaving the A5, we rambled through the countrysidestopping only to buy for some wine and snacks for the evening. Approachingthe town of Badenweiler, we are amazed to see a collection of hotels andprivate homes beautifully maintained and depicting almost a fairy-tale likeatmosphere. The townissituated with a backdrop of rolling hills, vineyards, and native forest.Badenweiler has a rich history as a health resort dating back to the Romanperiod with the original roman baths still preserved for viewing. The currentday resort is called Cassiopeia Therme which has a variety of pools, saunasand massage services.


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We have booked the Hotel Morgensonne (http://www.morgensonne.de). As it turnedout it was a real find and we couldnt have been happier. After unpacking, we decidto visit the Cassiopeia Therme and soak in the thermal waters. The pools indoor andoutdoor were beautiful. Coco even entered an exercise class in the big pool wavingher arms and bouncing around with all the others. As it turned out, the thermal

waters were a perfect way to take the aches and pains out of our bodies from thelong flight. We finished the evening

Badenweiler
http://www.morgensonne.de/http://www.morgensonne.de/http://www.morgensonne.de/http://www.morgensonne.de/


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with a great bottle of French wine toasting our travel accomplishments for the day a

so happy we had

Cassiopeia Therme

found this place.

We awoke from a great nights sleep to find the sun shining and a beautiful view of valley. The breakfast was in a sun filled room with a large selection of fruits, cheesebreads and cereals. The homemade jams and honey were a real treat. We ended oubreakfast taking our coffee outside with the hotel golden lab huddling around our fe


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couldnt have been a more perfect setting.

Rested and feed we took one last walk around town leaving with a sense of finding

real gem of a place. Instead of back tracking to the A5 we took the back roads passthrough Kandern, Binzer and Lorrach intersecting with the A2 just east of BaselSwitzerland on our way to Lugano. Leaving rolling hills and now entering the Alps wspectacular. We were also now entering the country of tunnels. If any country needhelp with building tunnels all they had to do was call the Swiss department oftransportation.


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Taking a break, we stopped at a Swiss Autostop to our pleasant surprise. As I pumpgas, Coco burst from inside the store and restaurant eagerly asking me to join herinside. Having experienced the German Autostops this was 180 degrees better. Therestaurant was beautifully laid out with fresh foods adjacent to a gourmet cooking awhere you could request anything from a full meal to freshly baked pastries. The

espresso bar was set in an area with tables both inside and outside. As an added bowe didnt have to pay for use of the WCfree and clean. We almost didnt want to land wish we hadnt just eaten.

Swiss Autostop

In contrast to this beautiful facility, I still noticed a man standing beside his car facithe woods taking and relieving himself. I just couldnt understand why he wasnt usthe first class restroom but this was Europe and not unusual for most parking rest s

The weather began to take a dramatic change from pleasant sunshine to dark cloudand driving rain. Approaching Lugano we pulled out the map Coco had printed of thHotel Silva where we had reservations. We had stayed here 17 years ago with ourchildren and were looking forward to seeing it again. The grounds to the Silva are fiwith lush vegetation and a pergola loaded with grapes surrounded by a romantic gawith camellias, palm, chestnut trees and a swimming pool. The Silva is still owned aoperated by the same family we met 17 years ago. Though it is not as upscale as m


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hotels in Lugano, it is a 10 minute walk to downtown and has rates $100 less per nthan most of the upper scale Lugano hotels.

Now back to entering Lugano at 5PM on a Friday night. With map in hand, we take tNord Lugano exit and immediately encounter construction which throws us both inthypertension. In loud voices we both agree we are not seeing the streets shown on map and take a roundabout back onto the Autostrada not able to exit for 15KM. Takbreath, we re-enter the Autostrada taking the same exit after an excited conversatidebating which side of the highway Lugano central was on. We continue driving towcity center passing the train station knowing that we must be close but unable tonegotiate turning around given the narrow streets and intense traffic. Now in city ce

we follosigns btoAutostrup the

and at last momerge the righturningat the tstationfew blolater wscreechstop se

the HotSilva siandstoppintraffic tback iththe parlot whic

this end of the property was only large enough to hold 4 cars. In the end, the map wconfusing and we were lucky to find the hotel.


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After checking in, the hotel owner calls our friend Scott and we arrange meeting at for dinner at a friend of Scotts Italian restaurant called Grotto dellaSalute. Alex andScott have been friends for more than 30 years. Before we meet Scott I take an houwalk ending with meeting Coco for a beer in the garden. We had met Alex 6 yearsearlier staying up past four in morning drinking great wine, eating his delicious food

dancing after closing. It had been my birthday which I will never forget. It was greaseeing Alex and Ali again. We presented them with a bottle of Napa Cab we had carfrom home and he immediately opened one of his best Italian Sangiovesse fromTuscany. Dinner turned out to be over the top as usual with handmade asparaguslasagna that melted in your mouth. Scott and I shared a veil dish that Scott suggestwe add a little chili lime sauce specially prepared by Alex. This restaurant is wherethose who know go to in Lugano. Alex sitting with us when he could was constantgreeting patrons who had frequented Grotto della Salute for years. Scott has made his second home during the week taking lunch or dinner as much as 4 to 5 days a wThe restaurant was so good Alex closed on Saturday and Sunday every week.

Scott, John, Alex

During dinner the subject of olive oil comes up since one of Cocos goals is to bringhome Italian olive oil and who better to ask than a chef and restaurant owner. With confident smile Alex brings out a liter of Il Cavallino Olio Extra Vergine Di Oliva(http//ilcavallino.it). He states that he has tried all the oils for the past 27 years andsettled on IL Cavallino as his choice. With such an endorsement, we immediately as


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where we can buy some? Coco prefers the 3 liter can and a man brings a can up fthe cellar for us to buy. Coco is in seventh heaven-now how do we get it home? Theconversation next turns to his new project in San Migiel Alende in Mexico. Along wmany expats, Alex is building a home there along with several more he will be sellinover the next few years. With pride, he shows us a new roofing material that has so

properties and is very efficient in this climate. We all agree to meet sometime soonMexico to see his project in San Migiel Alende. Completing a perfect dinner, we retuour hotel and plan to meet Scott the next morning in the center of town at coffee alunch.

The walking directions seemed simple, meet at the Piazza Reform and the CafFederale. This is Scotts regular Saturday routine. Read the paper; take an aperitif conversation with friends. Coco and I have different built in compasses on where PiReform is and I finally ask a man in Italian for directions. Coco being the impatientperson she is cant wait for me to complete the directions I had received and pointsthe opposite direction. Finally convincing her to drop her position, we see the Satur

market and Piazza Reforma. Scott is sitting at his regular table so European lookingcomfortable with his European home. Thirty nine years earlier I had convinced Scotattend the same Italian University I had attended the year before. The difference wthat Scott didnt return to the states but instead settled in Lugano and making this home. We have stayed in touch over the years visiting many times.

In a few moments, his friend Claudio joins us. Claudio is an event planner originallyFrankfurt but now a Lugano regular. Having been married several times and now daagain he keeps Scott appraised of todays bachelor life. Another friend of Scotts Johjoins us momentarily on her way to play golf. We all exchange goodbyes and agree meet that evening for dinner with several other friends. Scott, Coco and I move on tScotts regular caf for a sandwich and meeting more Saturday regulars. Scottslongtime partner Loli joins us and she and Coco leave to shop and agreeing to meean hour for a gelato.


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I dont know how this all happened but dinner tonight was at another ristorante ownby friends of Scott. It is located high above Lugano in the small village of Carona. TRistorante Posta (www.ristorante-posta.ch) is run by the Familie Parini-Cassina. Thevillage of Carona is very old and built with streets to narrow to drive. Winding up thhillside, we finally reach the village and the lilac blooming over the outdoor dining a

This is also the village that Lolis great grandmother has lived in and Loli had visitedthroughout her childhood. The family, food and company made this night one toremember. I particularly remember the very fresh Buffalo Mozzarella being so freshSaying good night to Scott and Loli, Scott hands me our Google directions for findinway around Milano the next day.

Dinner at Posta with Scott's Friends
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Sunday morning finds us in a torrential rain driving now with Italians and in near zevisibility. We are on our way to the Fiera Milanos International Furniture and DesignShow. My nephew Brian is there with a classmate from the architectural graduate sof Columbia University. This is the first time the school has developed furniture desor exhibited at this type of show. Before leaving our room Brian calls to coordinate

where we are to meet and at what time. The description is Cargo Door #5 at noon. turns out the directions from Scott turn out to be the directions to the City Fiera in tcity center of Milano. I had attended the City Fiera a few years earlier but had not bto the newer and larger Fiera outside of town. Lost, we approach some taxi drivers only speak Italian and I manage to understand enough to point us back out of townhopefully toward Brian. Through another stroke of luck we find our way to Cargo Do#5 and immediately see Brian approaching us and it is noon. As a perspective thisexposition area is almost a half mile long which only makes this meeting more amaBrian and I park the car and join Coco at the exhibitor entrance.

Columbia Exhibit at Milan Design Show

Brian and his fellow designer are located in the New Designer area which isconsidered the more creative area of the show. Young designers from around the woare showing their work with the hope of meeting someone who would financemanufacture ideas and provide the marketing. An independent designer can only ein this area three times so the turnover is high and the designs are always fresh. Fofirst few hours Brian joins us for a walk around the greater show which he has not h


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the opportunity to see since most of his time has been spent attending to his boothrest of the show has a collection of established designers and manufactures from epart of the globe. Anyone and everyone who has made a name for themselves is heshowing all types of furnishings, lighting and home dcor. Coco and Brian are in a zenjoying every hall we enter and only frustrated with a lack of time to see everythin

Brian has to return to his booth early given that we are told the President of Italy mvisiting his area and possibly the Columbia booth. As Coco and I tour other exhibits his area we come across a designer (Gunnar Berstad www.gunnarberstad.com) froNorway. Coco strikes up a conversation with the designers mother and the conversleads to the fact that they are from a small town in Norway called Stryn. I mention tsince we had visited Stryn several years before with our children to see relatives onmothers side named Roksvog. As the story goes, Leif Roksvog first arrived in Strynriding a bike and with no money. Over the years he has built one of larger meat pacbusinesses in Norway employing more than 300 people in this small town of 3,000.woman knows the family and we immediately start sharing stories. Her husband ha

even worked for one of our cousins husband in a car dealership for the past 20 yeaAs the Italians would say what a piccolo mondo (small world).

Coco, Brian, Gunnar & Mother
http://www.gunnarberstad.com/http://www.gunnarberstad.com/http://www.gunnarberstad.com/http://www.gunnarberstad.com/


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As it turns out, President Belesconi does tour the area but doesnt make a stop at thColumbia booth much to our disappointment. We close the show and begin our drivSalice Terme a small town 45 minutes south of Milano. We first found Salice Terme 1years earlier while driving from Cannes to Milano. I had attended the University of in 1968 and had become best of friends with Trish and her roommate Cari. When I

returned to Oregon after more than a year, Trish returned to her parents house inNaples. After finishing her senior year at the University of Oregon with her Italian bofriend Carlo attending Oregon State they got married and returned to Italy. Upon threturn, Carlo inherited the opportunity of managing the family Hotel Milano (http://www.hotelmilanosaliceterme.it/English/home_english.html ) in Salice Terme asmall thermal spa town near Vogehera. Over the years, Trish referred to the hotel hvirtual prison given the fact that it required their combined attention 24 hours a dayseven days a week.

Brian, John, Trish, Bardo

Turning off the Autostrada, 27 years after we had last seen each other, was my firstattempt to make contact with Trish and Carlo. All I could remember was the name otown (Salice Terme) and we managed to find it on our map. Arriving in town, we pathe car and decided to start walking from one hotel to another. Approaching the frodesk of the first hotel we walked into I made some statement in my broken Italianregarding two people named Trish and Carlo. Barely get those words out, a screamwas heard behind the wall and it turned out to be Trish. Exchanging hugs, we have
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in touch regularly ever since and have introduced my nephew Brian to their son Bayears ago making a next generation bond.

Hotel Milano is located in Salice Terme, a quaint thermal spa village, known for its sand sodium-bromide waters. The Hotel has 42 rooms with full amenities, a large pripark with swimming pool, an outdoor bar and ice cream parlor, a winter Wine Bar/Tand a large restaurant with a veranda overlooking the park and pool. Hotel Milano, of the oldest buildings in the historical center of Salice, is proud of its long past.Although it is difficult to establish the exact date of construction, we know that therwas a building on this site as far back as 1727. It was the convent of the San MarziOrder. In fact, on the right side of the arch near the building now housing the kitchethere is an epigraph: "antico orto dei RR.PP. di San Marziano 1727" ("antique gardRR.PP of San Marziano 1727").

On this evening in May 2009, we are driving in pounding rain with Brian helping usnavigate the back roads to Salice. Arriving after 8PM we are greeted with laughs, huand sparkling wine. Brian had been staying at the hotel for several days prior to ou

arrival but barely seen by Trish given his schedule with the trade show in Milano. Wadjourn up to the family apartment on the top floor for a pasta dinner and more winuntil just after 12. During this time we also remember the unique guest book Trishsfather had introduced to me on a visit to New York in 1972. We introduce the conceBrian plus have Bardo and their daughter Alissa participate for the first time sincesigning one in Phoenix with their grandfather 12 years ago. One of these days I will the challenge of making a product out of it and marketing it in America.

After a night of torrential rain, we settle down to a cappuccino and breakfast by thegarden. Carlo describes to us his latest bureaucratic struggle with local politiciansregarding a noisy bar across the street that has caused him considerable pain. We a

to write a letter he could use with his petition and on-going battle of gaining arestraining order to close the bar early in the evening. This is one of many legalstruggles Carlo has had over the years fighting the local elected officials who reprethe opposing political party to Carlo. He admits that the biggest mistake Italy has min government has been giving rural governments so much power.


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We decide to spend our day back in our university town of Pavia. Pavia(http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pavia ), 35 km south of Milano, is an old university city rare Romanesque and medieval buildings, a Visconte Castle, and a great shoppingdistrict. Pavia is known as the city of 100 towers but only a few remain intact todayNear Pavia is the Certosa di Pavia, one of the most notable buildings from the Italia

renaissance period. The University of Pavia started as a school in the ninth century became a university in 1361. Christopher Columbus and Alessandro Volta are amongraduates. I attended the university as part of a special program for 60 Americanstudents organized by the Oregon State University System. It was a special year fillwith classes in Art, Political Science, International Business and Language Studies.Walking the streets with an architectural student was particularly interesting given rich history of the buildings. Trish and I remember recall that we were younger than
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Paviahttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Paviahttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Paviahttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pavia


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Brian when we met and attended school here.

Rainy Day in Pavia


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Though the shops are closed, Coco still remains positive and engaged. We stop for and beer and reminisce. On our way back to Salice we stop at the newest supermarkato to shop for dinner and Brian taste the gelato. Arriving at the hotel, I begincooking a pasta dish for dinner and the boys share the evening in conversation. Wefinish the night discussing how Bardo will begin taking the reins of the hotel from C

and how new marketing strategies will be employed to build tourism for the hotel. Bhas made a commitment of three years to see if he can increase business or Carlo wfind a way to sell the hotel if the price is right. It is a family history of sell or growthe hotel that is now being passed down to another generation. I am sure this will nour last visit discussing the topic.

Before going to bed, Brian and Bardo realize that Brian cant take the train in themorning since he has several exhibit packing items that he needs to take back to Min the morning and I am the designated driver to help solve the problem. After amorning of driving Brian and his exhibit materials to Milano I return to convince Cartake Coco and I to his castle retreat in the nearby mountains. Carlo bought this sma

three story building 6 years ago and we last saw it empty and unfinished. Today wesee it restored. Driving through the hills in and out of the clouds was a beautiful sigWe open the doors to three foot thick walls and admire his finishing of this very unispace. We light a fire and sip some tea for an hour reflecting on life and the silence

the location.

Carlo's Retreat Near Salice


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We finish the day having dinner in Salice with Trish and Carlo at a renovated trainstation that Carlo used to used attending high school daily in nearby Voghera. We tfabulous salami from a nearby town of Varzi. Carlo explains that this is the home ofItalian salami and we agree we must buy some before we leave the next day. Theorigins of Salami di Varzi go back to the time of Lombard invasion. The custom of ea

pork became established in those areas that the Lombards conquered. In the twelfcentury, Salami di Varzi was a cherished delicacy for the feudal lords of the area. Vaa village in the area of Lombardy known as the Oltrepo Pavese, which is famous fthis salami. Varzi salami has been awarded a DOP (Denominazione dOrigine Protan Italian standards scheme similar to the DOC scheme for wine, is one of the mosthighly-esteemed cured meats in Italy. It is produced exclusively with top-quality porrepresents 30 to 33 percent of the filling, while an infusion of garlic and filtered redis added during the production process. It is exceptionally good and we managed totwo salami before the shops closed for lunch the day.


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The night before, Carlo had suggested we take the back roads to Cinqe Terre througtown called Bobbio ( http://travel.webshots.com/photo/2001505680088989879Rtwnand maybe visit Grazzano Visconti. Bobbio is located in the Trebbia River valleysouthwest of Piacenza, and is world famous as the seat of an early Benedictinemonastery, partly used as the setting in Umberto Eco's novel The Name of the Ros

The town has a very ancient folk music tradition, based on the flute and accordion,which are still handcrafted by local artisans, and a typical dance called "giga di Bob

bala Ghidon".

Varzi


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Setting out toward Bobbio we notice the skies are beginning to get very dark. Theforecast for the day was thunder and lightning storms and hail. As we climb towardpass, the hail begins and continues to escalate until the roadway is white and we onsee one set of tire tracks heading up hill but we never see a car. The temperature dto 34F and I become concerned. If we were to slow or stop, we may not be able to g

enough traction to start again or maybe start sliding toward the edge of the road. Thail continues and the white stuff begins to deepen to more than 2 inches. Near whwe thought was the summit, a car stands stuck in the middle of the road. We carefupass on the left just barely getting by and waving at the couple inside. They lookedthey were just going to wait out the storm and the temperature to rise. There is nobon the road as if everyone else got the memo not to drive for the next two hours.several points, the road was washed out leaving only a narrow passage to sneakthrough. Finally reaching the summit, we watch the temperature begin to rise and troads begin to clear of hail. If this was spring time in Italy, I couldnt begin to imaginwhat winter must be like in this area. Approaching Bobbio, we agree to stop andreconsider back tracking toward Grazzano Visconti but decide instead to continue o

toward the A12 and Genova. We find pizza and beer taking refuse in a quaint caf wgas fireplace and very clean bathroom.

Hail on the Road to Bobbio

For the next 90 km we continue to argue about which short cut we should take to athe Genova area. All along the way the hail storms continue randomly and at times


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cannot literally see the roadway. This was to be a relaxing diversion to the Autostraand it turns out to be a nerve racking ski trip. We finally find the frontage road headtoward Chiavari and then Cinqe Terre. Along this road, Coco begins her Italian spealessons literally trying to pronounce every word on every sign post or building she sI continue to help her with correct pronunciation. I begin to realize that I have creat

beast and she begins reading every sign post and advertising along the way. It turnto be very entertaining and we laugh our way through several small towns. Finally wmet the Autostrada and hit 150 km zipping through tunnel after tunnel.

After stopping at Autogip for gas and snack we head back onto the Autostrada. If yohavent experienced driving in Europe this will seem like we werent paying attentioand, I guess, I would agree. Every rest stop service area is different in size and servdepending upon the location and area available to develop. This particular auto stohad a good selection of services but I didnt notice the length of the re-entry lane bonto the Autostrada. In most cases they leave enough distance in the re-entry laneget your speed up to safely merge with the speeding traffic. In this case it turned o

that the entry lane was no more than 300 meters and then you had to really hit it tsafely merge. Without seeing the short length of the re-entry lane, I immediately fomyself almost colliding with a tanker truck going 60+ miles per hour. For a momentthought this was the end of our trip and felt like we had used one of nine lives justavoiding death. We were now ready for a bottle of wine and saying a few Hail Maryfor thank you.


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Exiting the Autostrada toward the Cinqe Terre (http://www.newsday.com/travel/ny-trcovweb1012743283may07,0,4421811.story ) and Riomaggiore clams our nerves begins a few days of no driving. We decide to stop in La Spezia (a seaport near theCinque Terre). Finding a large store called Coop; we shop the wine and cheese secwhile picking up a few more bottles of mineral water. Finding the road to Riomaggio

we begin the 17km drive along the cliffs. The views are spectacular though they doimpress Coco with their shear drop of several hundred feet to the Mediterranean.Approaching Riomaggiore, I begin noticing cars parked along the roadside for noapparent reason. Reaching the town, all is answered with gates limiting traffic to onservice vehicles. A guard station points me down the steep street into town where mhotel is located. Leaving Coco at the top of the hill, I begin the hike down finally findEdi and the LAncora hotel ( www.lancoracinqueterre.com ). Edi immediately explainthat our room will not be in the advertised three room hotel but further down the hitoward the water. He suggests I retrieve our luggage and my wife before viewing thapartment. Huffing and puffing, I climb the hill back to the car and Coco. After findiour hotel parking garage, we agree to consolidate our belongings into one small

suitcase. At this point, I am a bit concerned with Cocos condition having contractedchess cold and cough in Salice Terme. Climbing the hills in and out of Cinqe Terre is
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what the doctor ordered.

Riomaggiore


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Reaching Edi again, we deposit our passports and starting the walk to the bottom ostreet through tunneled walk ways and pass the fishing boats pulled out of the wateavoid the rough waters from the thunder and lightning storms that day. The city isquaint with century old buildings clinging to the hillside. The smells and crashing sedivert our attention to what was to come. Entering a building at waters edge, we b

climbing a steep rock staircase up what seems to be a never ending trek up. Carryithe suitcase, I begin become concerned I didnt bring enough heart medication. I caimagine how Coco feels with her cold but being the never quit travelers that we awe finally reach the top floor needing oxygen and a massage. Edi has been talking along the way saying how beautiful the view will be and when he opens the doors tpatio, it takes our last breath away. We both agree that it couldnt be more beautifuwith the crashing waves and developing sunset framed by our room. We can see asas the French Alps hundreds of miles away along with a panorama of buildings androoms scattered back up the hillside of Riomaggiore. On this night we both agree toin our room and toast the day and view of this beautiful place. Walking down thosesteps is not an option tonight. We wave at another couple across the way preparing

their sunset dinner like us on their patio.

Room View Riomaggiore

The five Cinque Terre villagesMonterosso, Vernazza, Corniglia, Manarola, andRiomaggioreare backed by hills so steep that a coast road was never built. Thevillages are connected by train, with five tiny stations wedged into the space where
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tracks emerge from the tunnels. East of the Cinque Terre, where the coast is flatter,a series of family resort towns and working ports: Sestri Levante, Chiavari, Rapallo, Santa Margherita LigureThe first town of the Cinque Terre, Riomaggiore, has seducartists into becoming residents. The tunnel next to the train tracks is a hard to findwalkway but an easier trek than the Via dellAmore trail connecting you to the color

homes of this tiny hamlet. Riomaggiore beach, an uncrowded cove, is a two-minutefrom town. From Riomaggiore, the Via dell' Amore (walkway of love) leads to Manar

With the waves crashing on the rocks below, we have a perfect backdrop to a restfusleep. The only exception is my attention to Coco and her constant coughing duringnight. I couldnt help but let my mind wander thinking of the various scenarios if weneed to get her medical attention. My first thought is to return to Salice where we whave Trish to help us negotiate the Italian medical system. The other thought was twait until we meet up with her cousin (a teaching doctor from Dartmouth) in ProvenThe town clock reminds me that it is 2AM and I have to get to sleep. Awaking to theand a new day rested from our mountain goat climb to our room, we begin planni

our day.

Cinque Terra Trail


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I first inquire about the boat that connects the villages but we find out that service been suspended for the day due to the rough seas from the storm the day before.Disappointed, we decide to take a leisurely walk along the Via dellAmore towardManarola. The morning finds scores of school children making the same trek whichshould have been renamed Via dellLaughing & Giggling Teenagers. The walk is

beautiful with panoramic views of the sea and wild flowers sprinkled along the pathReaching Manarola we decide to find a caf and take lunch. The break is timely andenjoy some pasta and pizza. With a renewed spirit, we decide to continue onto Cornwhich looks like a relatively flat hike on paper. As it turns out this section of trail hasseveral rocky climbing sections and ends with a 382 steps climb up to the town. Inretrospect, I cant believe Coco has made it so far and I look for alternative options the return to Riomaggiore. I first find a bus back down to the train station and we btwo tickets back to Riomaggiore.

Riomaggiore

After asking the train agent several times whether this is the right train and track, wfeel confident this is our ticket to Riomaggiore. At the last minute, the agent annou(in Italian) that the track has changed and we all scramble to the other track acrossway. Boarding the train and leaving the station, we sit next to an Italian woman whoseems to be mumbling about how she left something on the bench at the train statReaching the next station, for some reason we think it is where we should get off wthe other tourists. In a moment of panic, we get off the train and immediately realiz


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this is one station short of Riomaggiore. I try and re-board the train but the doors clbefore I could correct our error. At the same moment I realize that I have left mybackpack on the seat and begin screaming to get the attention of the woman seatinnext to us. She sees my panic and seems to understand something but the train stapulling out. Fortunately, the train is a local and very slow in gaining speed. I continu

scream in my English-Italian trying to convey my situation and backpack as I runalongside the train and now running out of platform. At the last moment, a man lowthe window and throws my pack out the window just in time for me to catch it befothe approaching tunnel and end of the platform. In what might have been a minutemanaged to regain my passport and money which we would have never have had achance to retrieve if not for this man. As I was catching my pack, several people in station applauded the incident citing it as entertaining and an exciting day in the lifa tourist. Coco and I took a deep breath and counted our lucky stars.

Arriving back to our room, we decide to make it a sunset dinner on our patio. Severmore couples across the way are also setting their tables and opening bottles of wi

The eveningtemperature is 70 and a few fishing boats are beginning to launch for an evening caWe do some laundry and hang our cloths out for the night. The time in Riomaggiorebeen special and unique among the places we have visited in Italy over the years.

Our last morning is spent eating Panini, cheeses and meat with orange juice. We hawait for our espresso until we check out. Deciding to exit our building out the back


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half way to the street we face a daunting steep rock staircase up the hillside. Gaspifor breath we reach the street connecting with the main street of town and finally fiEdi to check out. Fortunately I remember that this is a cash only hotel and have enoEuros to settle the bill. Coco continues on uphill and I meet her a few minutes later the car. She has been a real trooper given how tired she has become from her ches

cold.Back in our car again, we settle into a long day of driving to meet up with Cocos coand husband Roger. We make great time until reaching the out skirts of Genova. Thelectronic road signs read traffico intenso ahead and this continues for more thanhour. It is Friday and a national holiday (Labor Day) in Italy and France starting a thday weekend. Genova marks the intersection of travelers from Milano going east anwest to the sea shore for the weekend. The only people seemingly unaffected by thtraffic are the hundreds of people traveling by motorcycle and risking their lives bydriving between the lanes of traffic.

We decide to take a break and exit at Sanremo

(http://www.sanremoguide.it/en/default.cfm ) a beautiful Italian seaside town. Sanreis a small resort town with a harbor where large yachts and local fishing boats sit siside. The streets are lined with palm trees. Sanremo is called the Town of Flowersflowers are well-known and they can be seen in the many gardens and parks wheretropical plants also flourish. There are many beaches and famous past visitors havebeen Tchaikowski and Alfred Novel who took villas for the summer. After spending tlooking for a parking space (and not finding one) near the beach we decide to travecoast and end up walking an open market of crafts and food just west of Sanremo. only two regrets are not buying the natural flower honey and a ring Coco danced arbuying from a street vendor she met.

Returning to the Autostrada, we race by Cannes and Nice having visited both of thocities in years past. The first French impression I register is experienced during our encounter with the toll gates of the French Autostrada. Reaching the toll booth, I insmy ticket as usual and then insert my credit card for payment. With the rejection ofcredit card, I become very nervous with cars backing up awaiting this stupid Americto clear the gate. I try another card but it still doesnt work. Meanwhile Coco is poinher finger say that the direction of the card is wrongI disagree. Given the stalled ta traffic agent reviews the situation and says that the American credit card is notaccepted. Now this same card had worked in similar situations in Germany, Switzerand Italy. I had also just used the card to purchase gas a few minutes before so I knwasnt a card clearance issue. The agent fortunately made change for a 10 Euro no

and we were on our way. Cursing the French computer systems, we stop at the firstservice area to buy something small and make more change. From that moment wewere never quite sure whether we would have enough change to exit after several of driving.

Recovered from toll hell we hit a stretch of highway where we can make great timand cruise along at 150km. The countryside in the Cote-dAzur and now into Provenreally beautiful. The only surreal feature is seeing two cooling towers from a nuclea
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Roger and Martha had arranged a house exchange through an international organizcalled Intervac ( www.intervac.com ). Their townhouse in Cambridge had been usedthe owner of this home in Gigondas a few years ago and they now decided to visit tregion of France for the month of May in exchange. We were excited to see the areasince it was not only beautiful but also ground zero for the Cote d Rhone wines fa

throughout the world. The Chteauneuf du Pape is the most famous Ctes du Rhnwine. The "Coteaux" (slope) of Chteauneuf du Pape is between Orange and Avignocities, in one of the most beautiful landscapes of Provence. Chteauneuf-du-Pape ismedieval village on the side of a hill, guarded by the ruins of an ancient chateautowering above. A literal translation of Chteauneuf-du-Pape, "the Pope's new housactually true. The Popes of Avignon built a summertime chteau (their summer pala

Gigondas
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Gigondas Town Square

Arriving in Gigondas, we decide to walk the streets since our car could not negotiat

narrow village streets. The address we have is Maison Bauer, Rue du Rouvis. The man we approach speaks no English but points up the hill. I stop at the caf and theowner walks with me not familiar with the name but so helpful anyway. By chance wstumble upon the name Bauer tucked in a dark corner. I knock on the door and herepeople upstairs speaking Englishwe are there. Roger is surprised to see us since whad originally thought we would be arriving the next day. Besides, they had friends Holland visiting and we felt like the Griswolds from the movie European vacationbarging in. Roger is gracious and says we will make this work and not to worry aboit. We are just in time for the evening wine and cheese pairings.

The friends are Luni and William from Holland. They also met via the house exchang

program sharing their homes a few years ago. They were retired and had made 30home trades throughout the world over the past 10 years. After a few glasses of wiLuni begins cooking dinner of a veil, fresh tomatoes, potatoes and green beans pluscourse, a few bottles of Cote du Rhone wines from the Gigondas area. All turns out The only thing still needing discussion is the fact that 6 older adults would be sharinone bathroom. Under normal circumstances this wouldnt be a too much of a problebut when you pass a certain age, the bathroom becomes a more important and freqpart of your life. You need it more frequently and usually without much notice. We a


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recognize the situation but silently each use the room for brushing our teeth andpreparing for bed without making any particular schedule. During the night we menrestrain ourselves and without incident naturally make our pilgrimage at different hof the morning not even passing one another in the process. Coco and I early at aro6AM, Luni and William around 7 and Roger and Martha after 8AM. It was amazing th

we had no formal discussion about scheduled usage and we all made the best of thtime we choose. I wouldnt recommend the situation to everyone and I must say Coand I were very excited the first night after leaving Gigondas to have our own privabath again. Im sure Roger and Martha felt the same.


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Monday we decide to take a 24km tour of the nearby villages fitting in a picnic alonway. Coco decides to spend the morning resting from her cold. Packing a picnic boxseveral bottles of wine, cheeses and meats, we head out to Vaison la-Romaine(http://www.francemonthly.com/n/0902/index.php ). One of the most interesting aspof the town is its geography, and its Roman ruins. The Roman ruins and the modern

town are in the valley on the banks of the river Ouvze which is crossed by an anciebridge from the first century. The medieval town is high on the rocky cliff. The vallefloor was vunerable to attacks in Roman and modern times. In the middle Ages attawere frequent, and the town retreated up-hill to a more defensible position. We walmedieval part of town through the narrow streets dotted with small shops and placeeat. We chance upon a fabric store of Provence linens that are strikingly unusual anbeautiful-we must bring Coco back. Departing Romaine, we head to the country and

picnic.

Romaine Design Shop
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We first stop for a cold for a cold beer at a country caf which we learn was byreservation only seating but we disregard the protocol and temporarily ruff the feaof the owner. We promise to drink up and leave before the reserved guests arrive. Fhere we travel a few more kilometers finding a quiet spot in the shade adjacent to avineyard. Rolling out the blanket, we toast the day with a Gigondas wine and chees

Unfortunately, Luni inadvertently takes a slice of her thumb instead of the bread anare immediately in emergency mode. Applying pressure and wrapping her thumb, sfinds a band aid in her purse just in time. We suggest she elevate her hand above hheart so Roger makes a crutch perfect height to rest her hand while sitting and sippwine. By now the wine is flowing and the jokes easier to tell. Spontaneous laughterabounds for no apparent reason. Regaining our balance from laughing and sitting, worganize for a photo shoot to remember the moment.

Luni, Martha, Roger, William

Returning to Gigondas, everyone decides to nap. Coco is rested and I agree to walkher in the village tasting wines-just what I needed- more wine tasting. In the villageGigondas, there are 5 wine tasting Caves (the designation for a tasting room that seseveral wines from different wineries). Of course we cant pronounce most of the laand point to bottles as our way of choosing a pouring. We are both amazed at thequality of the wines. Though different blends from our years tasting and living in NaValley, we find them unique and compelling. We buy a selection of 4 bottles and hehome for my nap.


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Dinner that night consisted of leftovers from the past few days plus a pasta soup thCoco puts together which turns out to be a great compliment to our Provence leftovmenu. As the evening progresses, the wine turns the conversation into topics of traand a touch of politics. With slurring and elevated decibels our words become blendand sometimes misunderstood. At one point Coco makes a general comment about

perception of the sexual orientation of the men in Thailand that seems to push abutton with William. For a moment we are not sure what is so bothersome about thcomment and I attempt to retract the over generalization but without success. Willia retired educational psychologist, has some real issues with the observation by Coand continues to yell how stupid we are and how such statements are not based onfacts but instead on mindless generalizations. We had been making othergeneralizations about various European nationalities during the past two days butwithout incident. It is an uncomfortable moment tempered partly by wine and a topbest laid to rest until a more sober moment. We all politely move on to bed and wai


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the morning to hopefully bury this sword and repair international relations before th

leave for home.

Romaine


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By morning the air has calmed and we all have a pleasant breakfast kissing and hugthrough goodbyes. After reviewing the events of the night before, the remaining fouplot our day of heading back to Vaison-la- Romaine for a lunch and an opportunity fCoco to see the fabric store ( Lazardiere ) that Martha and I stumbled across a few dearlier. Both Coco and Martha begin comparing colors and throwing table cloths out

across the room viewing the fabulous colors and designs. Roger and I immediatelyrecognize this will be an expensive stop and fade into the woodwork hardly noticedeither of the girls. Finally completing this shopping frenzy, we move on to a lunch opastas, salads and wine overlooking the Ouveze River. The afternoon has beenexhausting so we return to Gigondas and a nap finished by a light dinner.

Awakening the next morning we are refreshed and ready to tackle the ChteauneufPape wine area ( http://www.chateauneuf.com/english/ ) tasting what Roger and I habeen discussing since first planning our visit. Picnic box in hand, we stop in Orange groceries and fresh baked bread. This is a Monday and many stores are closed for tday. While Roger, Coco and Martha are strolling in the aisles of the market, I search

streets for bread. I see many people with baguettes in hand but cant seem to fine tone elusive bakery open for the day. Rejoining at the car, we head out of town findibakery at the last turn.

Chteauneuf du Pape


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Once crossing the Autostrada, we begin noticing the change in vineyard managemewith large stones covering the soil. The earth is very rocky, but Coco explains that'sof the secrets of this outstanding Chteauneuf-du-Pape wine. The stones act as astorage heater, soaking up the Provencal sunshine during the day, and releasing thheat into the night, long after sunset. Finding a place to picnic in the vineyard, we w

an unusually engineered tractor turn these rocks in a cultivating way we guess tocontrol weed growth and maybe keep the rocks surface fresh. During these days weconstantly harassed by the Mistral - winds that blow from the north at 80-100 km(sustained) for 100 150 days a year in Provence. Winds so strong they are constanrattling windows and slammingdoors. They would drive me crazy if I lived here yeararound. Winds blow not only in the winter, as you would first believe, but all yeararound.


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Finishing our lunch, we head toward the nearest vineyard called Chateau Cabrieres(www.chateau-cabrieres.fr ) Vines have been growing here since 1344 and the oldebuildings of the property, even the cellar itself, are from the fifteenth century. Thegrounds are beautiful and you can see and smell the tradition and age of this placeannual production is just over 12, 000 cases. We are pleasantly surprised with the

quality of the wine since it was by chance we stopped here. Our tasting host (Leni)just a kick. He generously pours us a variety of whites and reds that encourage us tstay longer than first expected. We buy a few bottles to remember this greatexperience, make a photo with Leni and head toward the town of Chteauneuf du P

Wine Tasting with Leni
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Entering town, we choose a tasting room of Chateau de La Gardine (www.gardine.com ). The wines are absolutely wonderful. For a brief moment we trydiscuss with Danielle (the family tasting room representative of the day) how we cowishfully import their wines and become a distributor. I wonder how many other pehave had the same dream over the years. We depart with a lasting taste in our mou

and a new found appreciation for Cote d Rhone wines.

Chteauneuf du Pape

Arriving back in Gigondas, Coco and I take the rest of the afternoon to walk the streof Gigondas past the Monastery of Prebayon which dates from the 7th century and isoldest Carthusian convent in France. The town is also situated near the Dentelles ofMontmirail which is a hikers paradise and I wish we could have extended our stay fhike in this area. We stop many times to take in the views of the Rhone Valley. Thouthe Mistrals are still blowing we feel nothing drowned in the splendor of the place.

Morning finds us sharing our last Gigondas breakfast of freshly baked bread with jamand butter washed down with coffee. We all say our goodbyes knowing that we will Martha and Roger in Portland a month from now while they are visiting family. We dto travel the back roads for an hour taking in the countryside toward the town of NyIt didnt take too long to get momentarily lost but we did eventually finding the signthe Autostrada. We head north toward Valence. At Valence we turn east toward Grefor lunch and shopping. I had last visited Grenoble in 1968 during the Olympics.
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Needless to say, the city had grown maybe 10 fold in the 40 years since. We take alucky turn or two and find ourselves in the old part of town right in the middle of allfashionable shopping. I have learned if you have no idea or map to help you naviganew city just follow the signs for the Centre (or central part of the city) and your oof finding the more historical and restored parts of a city are high.


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Grenoble(http://images.google.com/images?hl=en&q=grenoble,+france&um=1&ie=UTF-8&ei=oM0RSpjND5u6sgOnlvDpAg&sa=X&oi=image_result_group&resnum=5&ct=tsits between the Drac and Isere rivers and is surrounded by the Alps. Grenoble isactually called the Capital of the Alps and is a city of students with four universiti

and more than 50,000 students. Grenoble was first known for glove-making evolvinmore industrial industries in the nineteenth century. It is lovely and Coco finally is aright spot at the right time to browse shops while they are open and there are streeafter street of shops. The city is bustling with people taking their lunch on a warm sday. After 3 hours of walking and eating, we return to the road and head toward a ccalled Annecy that looks like a good bet situated on a lake of the same name. For amoment Coco argues that we should press on further toward Germany to be sure win proximity to Frankfurt and the airport the next day. I momentarily have lost trackwhat day of the week it is and where we need to be. I say this because I almost wasagreeing with her until I realize we have three nights before we have to be in Frankit is Tuesday and we depart Friday. Regaining our senses, we take a deep breath and

like we have just found extra days in our trip after visiting the twilight zone of aEuropean road trip and driving too many miles.

Lake Annecy
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Taking the Annecy (http://www.francemonthly.com/n/0901/index.php ) exit we approthis beautiful lake and city. We choose to take the road on the right side of the lake begin looking for a hotel. Stopping at an information booth we realize that it had jusclosed. Coco fortunately takes a moment to tie her shoes and the information ladycomes out the door on her way home. Lucky again, she suggests a newer hotel a m

down the road. It turns out to be perfect and the owner takes a few moments to sugrestaurants and points of interest we should visit while in the area. We agree to visiOld Town and find a restaurant. The lake of Annecy is 10 square miles and framedthe Alps is spectacular. It is one of the cleanest lakes in the world and you can see tin the water that flows through old town. The history of Annecy is filled with

Anncey Old Town
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invasions over the centuries. Today it is home to a cartoon festival during the summand filled with tourists during the vacation months. Coco and I were taken by the beof the city and the 4 & 5 star boutique hotels (www.cottagebise.com & www.abbayatallories.com ) that dotted the eastern side of the lake. We had a four course dinnerlovely hotel restaurant watching the tourists stroll the canal. This would be a place

of us would choose to return to if the opportunity presented itself. Returning to our we find ourselves needing to rest. Unfortunately tonight we would spend having ousleep interrupted with coughing most of the night.

Hotel Cottage Lake Anncey

The next day we decided to take the back roads through the Alps toward the birthpof Cocos great grandmother in Griesalp, Switzerland. On paper these roads lookedsimple enough but in reality they proved to be something else. The first clue was hato take a detour around a tunnel that was closed. This road was built for one and a

cars side by side. So far Coco was not impressed.

Our first stop will be Chamonix(http://www.chamonix.com/page.php?page=0&r=accueil&ling=en ) adramaticallypicturesque city at the foot of Mont Blanc. It was the home to the firstWinter Olympics in 1924 and is known worldwide as the climbing and skiing capitalthe world. We stopped for lunch at an outdoor caf adjacent to a table of three youknowingly tailored, alpine skiers from Germany. Groups of school children arrive to
http://www.cottagebise.com/http://www.abbaya-tallories.com/http://www.abbaya-tallories.com/http://www.chamonix.com/page.php?page=0&r=accueil&ling=enhttp://www.cottagebise.com/http://www.cottagebise.com/http://www.cottagebise.com/http://www.abbaya-tallories.com/http://www.abbaya-tallories.com/http://www.abbaya-tallories.com/http://www.abbaya-tallories.com/http://www.abbaya-tallories.com/http://www.abbaya-tallories.com/http://www.chamonix.com/page.php?page=0&r=accueil&ling=enhttp://www.chamonix.com/page.php?page=0&r=accueil&ling=enhttp://www.chamonix.com/page.php?page=0&r=accueil&ling=en


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and some ski. The gear these skiers are taking looks more like an Everest climb thaspring sprint down the mountain. Looking almost vertical at the Alps above, we seeof what looks like people a few thousand feet above us. You just cant stop gasping the spectacular views of the mountains.

From Chamonix we head for Martigny which is surrounded by mountain vineyards aorchards. The vineyards are planted on steep hillsides almost impossible to even walong let alone farm. As we approach the last turn after an hour of curving roads, wimmediately gasping for breath. The turn is situated almost blind to your approach.opens to a shear 3,000 ft. drop to the valley floor and Martigny(http://www.myswitzerland.com/en/offer.cfm?category=Destinations_Resorts&subcahort%20City%20Breaks&id=81146 ). You almost feel like you were in an airplane anfloating out off the road. For a moment Coco is not breathing and Im not far behindI grab her arm, at the same time, making sure we are still on the road. Mentally pulmy stomach down from my throat, I ask if she is OK and she murmurs something likget me the hell off this mountain and then starts to cry. There are a few things in

world that Coco doesnt care for and steep mountain roads with shear drops are onthem. I ask if she would like me to find a spot to stop and take a picture and the anis NO! Hands down this was the most dramatic mountain road scare both of us haever had. If the oxygen masks could have dropped from the ceiling of the car we bowould have been using them. Not hesitating, I drove as safely as I could to the vallefloor. Reaching the bottom we immediately stopped at an Autostrada service area tnegotiate a new route avoiding our next back road option. Returning from the toiletCoco even admitted the experience had made her have an accidentI now thoughtshould check. You had to have been there to fully experience this trauma.
http://www.myswitzerland.com/en/offer.cfm?category=Destinations_Resorts&subcat=Short%20City%20Breaks&id=81146http://www.myswitzerland.com/en/offer.cfm?category=Destinations_Resorts&subcat=Short%20City%20Breaks&id=81146http://www.myswitzerland.com/en/offer.cfm?category=Destinations_Resorts&subcat=Short%20City%20Breaks&id=81146http://www.myswitzerland.com/en/offer.cfm?category=Destinations_Resorts&subcat=Short%20City%20Breaks&id=81146http://www.myswitzerland.com/en/offer.cfm?category=Destinations_Resorts&subcat=Short%20City%20Breaks&id=81146http://www.myswitzerland.com/en/offer.cfm?category=Destinations_Resorts&subcat=Short%20City%20Breaks&id=81146http://www.myswitzerland.com/en/offer.cfm?category=Destinations_Resorts&subcat=Short%20City%20Breaks&id=81146http://www.myswitzerland.com/en/offer.cfm?category=Destinations_Resorts&subcat=Short%20City%20Breaks&id=81146


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Checking with the tourist services, we were presented with two options, take theAutostrada at 150km speeds north or take an Autostrada east for 70km and then umountain to an auto-train which would take us to the end of a road in the Alps newhere Griesalp. We opted for the car train. The train left each end of the line every minutes taking 15 minutes to navigate a tunnel under a mountain. It was great. You

had to stay in your car while it rambled through the mountain. Emerging on the othside, we left the train surrounded by green hillsides and towering mountains.Everywhere we looked, we expected to see Heidi (from the 1950s Spencer Tracy Swstory) dancing down the hillside singing some gushy song.

Car Train Switzerland


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Now less than 25km from Griesalp, our anxiety grows as we look for the small roadleading to Griesalp. Our first turn finds us among cute Swiss farm houses but feelinconfident we are on the right road. I finally convince Coco that this is not our road awe backtrack to main road. A few kilometers further we find the road to Kiental andGriesalp. Some back ground on Griesalp. From family stories (on her mothers side)

seems that her Great Grandmother (Elizabeth) had left her home here around 1860travel to Chicago as a nanny for a doctor. After an inappropriate encounter with theshe left one day with layers of cloths (all her cloths) on and took a train to Denver. Tshe met her husband. From there they finally settled in HelvetiaOregon. Around 18she left her 8 children with her oldest daughter (Cocos grandmother) and returnedGriesalp to visit her family. Can you imagine a woman leaving her children and travby herself half way around the world in 1878? With such colorful family folk lore, weto find this place but now in the comfort of a car.

Approaching Griesalp Switzerland


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Coco had researched the area and even spent time in outdoor blog groups of backpackers who had stayed in a cabin in Griesalp(http://wanderland.myswitzerland.com/en/orte_detail.cfm?id=313854 ) with a mancalled________. As we drove the road toward Griesalp, it narrowed to one lanenecessitating our backing up several times to let other cars pass. It was so beautifu

stopped often to capture the grandeur and a sign post every once in awhile to docuthat we were on the right road. Arriving at the end of the road, there was a cabin anout building still closed from the winter season.

Griesalp Switzerland

Not sure that we had reached the infamous Griesalp, we found another road continup the mountain. Excited, we decided to give it a try. Now this wasnt just a one lanroad it was a one lane road almost vertical at times switching back and forth alongsscreaming waterfall. With snow now at points along the road, Coco began to have

flashbacks of the Martigny experience. Recognizing that we could reach a spot whecouldnt turn around or worst yet slide backward, I found a spot just large enough tnegotiate turning around. We also had a rental car not necessarily built for mountaibiking. Turning around was as exciting as anything we had ever encountered beforewe made it and limped back down the hill. After writing this paragraph, I found thisdescription of the Griesalp road Griesalp is s ituated in this natural paradise oclear mountain streams and waterfalls, flower-dotted meadows, shadymountain forests and snow-capped peaks. The postbus route with the stee
http://wanderland.myswitzerland.com/en/orte_detail.cfm?id=313854http://wanderland.myswitzerland.com/en/orte_detail.cfm?id=313854http://wanderland.myswitzerland.com/en/orte_detail.cfm?id=313854http://wanderland.myswitzerland.com/en/orte_detail.cfm?id=313854


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gradient in Europe takes 45 minutes to reach Griesalp from its starting poiReichenbach in Kandertal at the entrance to the Kiental, via Kiental villagegradient of up to 28% is overcome on the stretch through the Pochten Gor


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The night was spent in a delightful hotel in Kiental called Hotel Baren(http://www.baerenkiental.ch/index_e.html ). It was off season and we were the onlyguests for the night. I was exhausted and had one beer and a snack in the room. Coattempted to strike up conversation with the owner but he was even too young toremember families from 150 years prior. I fell asleep tracking a hang glider high ab

the nearby mountain sailing into the sunset.
http://www.baerenkiental.ch/index_e.htmlhttp://www.baerenkiental.ch/index_e.htmlhttp://www.baerenkiental.ch/index_e.htmlhttp://www.baerenkiental.ch/index_e.html


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Awakening to a perfect alpine morning we left Kiental and the Grisalp valley satisfiethat Coco had connected with her ancestors and thanking me for having the patienfind the place. We were now on our last stage before departing the next day. Along way we took time to visit Bern and look for an internet caf to connect with Cocosrelatives near Darmstadt the next day. Rubbing our lucky charm, we found old town

Bern and parked the car for three hours. Berne's city center is largely medieval andbeen recognized by UNESCO as a Cultural World Heritage Site. Perhaps its most famsight is theZy t glogge (bernese German for "Time Bell"), an elaborate medieval cloctower with moving puppets. We found ourselves on the main shopping street filled design shops and restraints. The atmosphere is electric with people out for lunch antourists waiting for the clock to strike 12. Not having a cell phone or computer havebeen a bit of an inconvenience at times but I think worth the experience of travelin
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Old_City_of_Bernehttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Medievalhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/UNESCOhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/World_Heritage_Sitehttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Zytgloggehttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Old_City_of_Bernehttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Old_City_of_Bernehttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Old_City_of_Bernehttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Medievalhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Medievalhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Medievalhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/UNESCOhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/UNESCOhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/UNESCOhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/World_Heritage_Sitehttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/World_Heritage_Sitehttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/World_Heritage_Sitehttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Zytgloggehttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Zytgloggehttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Zytglogge


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back in time 20 years.

Bern, Switzerland


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before on this trip.

Karlsruhe, Germany


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Legend has it that Margrave Karl Wilhelm of Baden once had a vision of a star-shapcity in a dream which gave rise to the initial idea for Karlsruhes fan-shaped or radialayout. Great dream but bad idea for these unprepared Americans. Arriving at the hwe take everything from the car to pack for our departure the next day. Before nighwe walk a few blocks and settle on a younger set bier garden. The food is budget

the atmosphere is great with young college students plotting their futures, love andenjoying the day. Though we were the oldest couple there, we felt a little younger fmoment.


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The morning brought the disappointing realization that this was our last day. On onehand we were happy to get on the plane and be home in bed resting within 24 houron the other hand despite our colds, we could continue on this road trip for anothermonth. Packing our bags with olive oil, wine, fabrics, salami, pasta, nespresso, and many other things we had collected along the way, we left Karlsruhe with clear

directions to the Autobahn and into Darstradt (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/DarmstaNow Coco had an email from Tobias which made us even more comfortable in findintheir house. Tobias was the son of Erika and twenty years before with his sister Dorparents visited us in Portland. Before leaving Portland, Coco had researched their non the internet and found their phone number. She called and said we would like tothem on our way to the airport before departing home. Here we were now closing tloop of this reunion. But not so quick, we missed one turn and found ourselves haviback track to Darmstadt. Exiting the Autobahn, we stopped at a hotel and called ToHe arrived 5 minutes later and we followed him back to their house. Even with direcand a Garman I couldnt have found this place.

Coco,Dora,Tobias,Erika

Their house was set in a secluded street surrounded by a forest. Walking into the hoErika had set the typical European Family Visitor table for lunch. We had seen thesettings from our numerous trips over the years to family in Germany and Norway. Tare just so considerate and welcoming to us that you can almost cry. I have given Cshit for days saying that we could pass on this but now took all that back and felt ve
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Darmstadthttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Darmstadthttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Darmstadthttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Darmstadt


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much at home and so happy for Coco. I had not met them on their trip to the statesyears before having been traveling almost every day during those years. After helloand hugs, we sat down to eat and catch up on family history. Erika asked me do yolike asparagus? and I said yes. A moment later I had a full plate of beautiful whitegarden grown asparagus in front of me with boiled potatoes. This was a very traditi

dish of their family and I enjoyed every bit of it. The women entered a frenzy of adiscussion about where the family had started and whether Griesalp was part of thestory. They suggested otherwise but finally concluded that Cocos mother side couldhave come from that area. The town of Griesham where their fathers family had cofrom was what Tobias described as the most boring city in Germany which is adistinction that could have been won by many cities of Germany from my perspecti

Realizing that time was growing short, we started the goodbye process which wouldtake no less than 30 minutes. We told Dora that she was welcome to stay with us o

upcoming trip to the states. Zora is a gorgeous 36 year old who is a teacher workinwith children with disabilities during the year and spends the summers on big ranchthe western US for the past 5 years as a horse trainer. Most of the engagements solike they are with very nice places and they pay for her travel expenses plus room aboard. This trip she is working on a ranch in Idaho. We look forward to seeing her anshowing her around Portland and Oregon. After taking duplicate pictures of everyonwe get into our car thinking that we should have stayed here the night before. Whagreat people and family.


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Depositing the car, we head for check in and home. With my million mile status witUnited we also have an opportunity to visit the Red Carpet Club and we do. The lasttime we were here was returning from Kazakstan visiting Ryan in the Peace Corp. Atime, we were so tired from being up all night and feeling dirty from the long trip alcould remember was the clubs beautiful shower rooms stocked with hair and bath

treatments and hot water. It was heaven then. Today it was a restful place to have adrink and celebrate our great trip. With vodka tonics in hand we toasted. I did strikeconversation with the attendants at the desk stating that we would be happy tovolunteer if they needed to fill seats in business class. Though a long shot with onmileage award ticket and a wish I had to try. Before departing the lounge the attendsaid ask for Sabrina at the gate. There was still hope. I hadnt told Coco about anythese conversations since she would have pestered me to make this happen. Arrivthe gate Sabrina said that they only had middle seats in business class available. I that would be fine but at the last minute she upgraded an un-suspecting young mafirst class and seated Coco and I together in business. WOW! Put this in perspectiveused 40,000 miles for each of our tickets and business class would have been three

times this amount. United is not stupid, I will continue to be a loyal customer and I appreciate their accommodating us.

Boarding the plane, our trip is complete. Coco is smiling from ear to ear. The menu featuring filets for dinner with good red wine and a seat that reclines flat. I begin wmy outline for this travel log and Coco takes a look at the movies. In one perspectivthis trip has flown by and in another it seems we have been gone for months. I havefound that you have these perspectives when you have had a memorable time. Forthis has been a trip I thought I would have never had a chance to take from the pre4 years fighting cancer. In the end, we must seize these opportunities to live and towith people we love to share similar experiences.

european road trip with john & coco

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