f costaluz07 (english)

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CanadaNez de Balboa, 35 - 3% 914 233 250) 914 233 251JapanSerrano, 109% 915 907 600) 915 901 321Republic of IrelandClaudio Coello, 73% 915 763 500) 914 351 677

RussiaVelzquez, 155% 915 622 264) 915 629 712United KingdomFernando El Santo, 16% 913 190 200) 913 081 033United States of AmericaSerrano, 75% 915 872 200) 915 872 303

EMBASSIES IN MADRID

Emergencies% 112Medical Emergencies% 061Civil Guard% 062National Police% 091Municipal Police% 092

Citizen Information% 010Post Office% 902 197 197www.correos.es

BELANGRIJKE TELEFOONNUMMERS

CANADA. TorontoTourist Office of Spain2 Bloor Street West Suite3402Toronto, Ontario M4W 3E2% 1416/961 31 31 : 1416/96119 92www.tourspain.toronto.on.cae-mail:[email protected]. TokyoTourist Office of SpainDaini Toranomon DenkiBldg.6F.3-1-10 Toranomon. Minato-KuTOKYO-105-0001% 813/34 32 61 42) 813/34 32 61 44www.spaintour.come-mail: [email protected]. MoscowSpanish Tourist OfficeTverskaya - 16/2, 6Moscow 125009% 7495/935 83 99) 7495/935 83 96www.tourspain.rue-mail: [email protected]. SingaporeSpanish Tourist Office541 Orchard RoadLiat Tower # 09-04238881 Singapore% 65/67 37 30 08) 65/67 37 31 73e-mail: [email protected] KINGDOM. LondonSpanish Tourist Office2nd floor, 79 CavendishStreet

London W1A 6XB% 44207/ 486 80 77) 44207/486 80 34

www.tourspain.co.uke-mail: [email protected] STATES OF AMERICALos AngelesTourist Office of Spain8383 Wilshire Blvd, Suite 960Beverly Hills, California 90211% 1323/658 71 95) 1323/658 10 61www.okspain.orge-mail: [email protected] Office of SpainWater Tower Place. Suite 915East845 North Michigan AvenueChicago, Illinois 60/611% 1312/642 19 92) 1312/642 98 17www.okspain.orge-mail: [email protected] Office of Spain1395 Brickell AvenueMiami, Florida 33131% 1305/358 19 92) 1305/358 82 23www.okspain.orge-mail: [email protected] YorkTourist Office of Spain666 Fifth Avenue 35th floorNew York, New York 10103% 1212/265 88 22) 1212/265 88 64www.okspain.orge-mail: [email protected]

SPANISH TOURIST INFORMATION OFFICES ABROAD

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EUROPEAN COMMUNITY

European RegionalDevelopment Fund

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CUBIERTA INGLES 2/12/06 09:36 Pgina 2


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Apart from a few rocky stretches, the Costa de la Luz is acontinuous line of fine sandy beaches backed by pine groves.Flanked by saline and marsh, the lower reaches of the riverspresent a scene that has barely changed in centuries.

The name Costa de la Luz, or Coast of Light, comes fromthe way the sea reflects the sunlight like a mirror.

This coastline preserves many reminders of ancient history.Here was the kingdom of Tartessos, where Phoenician andGreek traders landed. Later came the Romans, followed inthe 8th century by the Arabs, who stayed for another eightcenturies. This was also the jumping-off point for the mostfamous sea voyage in all history, which brought ChristopherColumbus and his three carvels to the shores of America.

Inland is olive-draped hill country and two of the loveliestmountain areas in Spain - the Sierra de los Pueblos Blancos inCadiz and the Sierra de Aracena in Huelva, in both of whichthe villages stand out white against the landscape.

1

Introduction

Caos de Meca. Cadiz

COSTA de la LUZ-INGLES 29/11/06 22:29 Pgina 1


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built upon the remains of amosque. The ancient fortressand the small peninsula ofPunta Tarifa provide finevantage points from which toview the coast of Africa.Thanks to the west and eastwinds, Tarifa today is aparadise for windsurfing (it is

the venue for internationalwindsurfing championships)and acqualung fishing. Thereare three beaches: Bolonia(6 km), Los Lances (10 km) andLa Plata (4 km).

Inland from the stretch ofAtlantic coast between Tarifaand Cadiz are numerousranges where fighting bullsare raised. Fourteenkilometres from Tarifa a roadleads off to theEnsenada deBolonia. Here lie the ruins ofthe Roman town ofBaeloClaudia, now a museum, and avast extent of white, sandybeach.

Coastalroutes

Beach. Tarifa

The domains of Guzmn el Bueno

For nearly eight centuriesthis part of the Coast livedthrough alternating periods ofpeaceful coexistence andwarfare between Arab andChristian. Perhaps the imagethat best encapsulates theconfrontations betweenthe two cultures is that of aknight who hurls a daggerfrom the battlements andenjoins the Arabs to slay hisson with it. The knightconcerned is known to historyas Guzman el Bueno and theepisode occurred at thefortress ofTarifa, which stillstands (albeit very muchaltered) along with theoriginal city walls. Within isthe church of Santa Mara,

e



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Ensenada de Bolonia

A-4

340

340

IV

Zahara de los Atunes

Sancti-Petri

TrebujenaSanlcar

e Barrameda

ChipionaRota

El Puerto deSanta Mara

Puerto Real

San FernandoChiclana Medina

Sidonia

Vejerde la Frontera

Barbate

Tarifa

Algeciras

Los Barrios

Alcal delos Gazules Jimena

de la Frontera Estepona

Olvera

RondaJerezde la Frontera

Arcos dela Frontera

BornosPrado

del Rey

AlgodonalesVillamartnPuerto Serrano

de San JuanLebrija

Conil dela Frontera

CDIZ

Cabo de Trafalgar

Punta de Tarifa

Punta Camarinal

PARQUE NATURALDE LOS

ALCORNOCALES

PARQUE NATURAL BREAY MARISMAS DE BARBATE

PARQUE NATURALDE LA BAHA DE CDIZ

PARQUE NACIONALDE DOANA

Also on this stretch of thecoast isZahara de los Atunes,a fishing town of longtradition where bungalowsand residential estates havesprung up in recent years.In spring and late summervisitors to Zahara can stillwitness the time-honouredspectacle of tuna fishing fromthe shore with nets.

Ten kilometres further on isBarbate, site of the famousCaos de Meca, an area ofexceptional beauty withnatural springs and numerouspine groves crowding almostto the seas edge. Hard by isCape Trafalgar, whoselighthouse stands as areminder of the famous battle Baelo Claudia. Bolonia

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where Admiral Nelson fell atthe moment of victory, alongwith the Spanish marinersGravina and Churruca. Thecape is bounded on either sideby semi-virgin beaches ofnear-white sand.

Only ten kilometres inlandVejer de la Fronterarears uplike a watchtower, reputedlyone of the most Arab (andloveliest) towns in the entireprovince of Cadiz. Particularlyoutstanding are the church ofEl Salvador, the Arco de las

Monjas (Arch of the Nuns),the noble houses and theremains of the mediaevaldefence works.

The next municipality alongthe coast isConil de laFrontera, a fishing town whichhas attracted a lot of tourismin recent years, located as it isnear two immense beaches.From Conil the road runson to Chiclana, an industrialtown on the fringe of themarshland that surrounds

the Bay of Cadiz.

Zahara de los Atunes

Vejer de la Frontera



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tied to the naval battles ofthe Napoleonic wars. SanFernando boasts a number ofmonuments, chief amongthem the twin-towered parishchurch and the castle of SanRomualdo. The buildings areof whitewashed brick withstone doorways and urn-decorated terraces one ofthe finest examplesof Baroquearchitecture inthe provinceof Cadiz.

Fontanilla Beach.Conil de la Frontera

Church of La Inmaculada.

Barbate

The old town displays whitehouse-fronts broken by largewindows with wrought-ironbars. Nearby is La Barrosabeach, one of the best-knownon the entire coast, and theabandoned hamlet ofSanctiPetri. On an island there, alsocalled Sancti Petri, stands acastle built on what was oncea Phoenician sanctuary, laterdedicated to Hercules by theRomans.

The last stop before reachingthe provincial capitalisSan Fernando,a town closely



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Cadiz:La Tacita de PlataInCadizthe sea is thebeginning and the end ofeverything salt-glitteringwas the term used by the poetManuel Machado. A seafaring

city always (founded byHercules himself according tolegend) Cadiz claims to be theoldest city in the West. Ifpossible, visitors should try toapproach the city by sea,crossing the bay on one ofthe boats (known locally asvaporcitos, or little steamers)that shuttle between Cadizand El Puerto de Santa Maraon the far side of the bay, acrossing of about one hour.Those who do will understandwhy Cadiz is popularlyknown as La Tacita de Plata(the Silver Cup).

The new part of the city,recognisable by themodern buildings,

flanks a long avenue

which is the only

means of access for thosearriving by car. The Puerta deTierra, or Land Gate a pieceof 17th-century fortification separates the old town fromthe new. The best way to startis by taking a stroll throughthe Barrio del Ppulo, themost authentic part of the old

Cadiz, which huddles aroundthe Cathedral a largeBaroque building with a blue-tiled dome. Not far from thereis the church of Santa Cruz,the first place of Christianworship in Cadiz founded byKing Alfonso X the Wise onthe site of an Arab mosque.The many churches includeSanto Domingo (which has amarble-columned cloister),Santa Mara, Santiago,San Agustn, San Francisco(containing works byMontas), San Antonio,

Plaza de San Juan de Dios.Cadiz



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El Carmen and El Rosario(which houses sculptures ofthe citys patron saints SanServando and San Germn).

Also worth seeing are theold Cigar Factory, the RoyalPrison, the Provincial Museum,the Santa Cueva or Holy Cave(with frescoes by Goya), theTown Hall, the Gran Teatro

Falla, Torre Tavira and

the Oratory of San Felipe Neri,where Spains firstConstitution was approved in1812. It contains a painting byMurillo and is classified as aNational Monument.

Lining the Alameda and thesquare of San Antonio are

the finest houses in Cadiz,outstanding for theirremarkable filigreedbalconies. Some also preservethe original gleaming brass-studded mahogany doors,which open on to marbledpatios bedecked with climbingplants and flowers. On theside facing the sea, the housesare painted in bright colours.

Castle of San Sebastin. Cadiz

Paseo Campo del Sur. Cadiz



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Besides the monumentalaspect, Cadiz is an excellenttown for tapas; typical hereare the freiduras shopsselling hot fried fish to takeaway in paper cones.

The Carnival in Cadiz is oneof the liveliest in Spain alsothe longest and this ispossibly the best time to visit.

Just over the bridge that spansthe mouth of the Bay is PuertoReal. Founded by the CatholicMonarchs, Puerto real wasonce a major port, butnowadays industry is its majoroccupation.

S A

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Church of Santo Domingo2 Cigar factory3 Monument a las Cortes of 18124 Palace of the Diputacin5 Baluarte de la Candelaria6 Church of El Carmen7 Military Governers Headquarters8 Parque del Genoves9 Castle of Santa Catalina

10 Castle of San Sebastin11 Church of San Lorenzo12 Womens Hospital13 San Felipe Neri (Oratory)14 Torre Tavira15 Church of Santa Mara16 Royal Prison17 Church of Santa Cruz18 Casa Mora19 Cathedral20 Church of El Rosario21 Casa de las Cadenas22 Church of Santiago23 Church of San Agustn24 Church of San Antonio25 Gran Teatro Falla26 Land Gate27 Town Hall28 Church of San Francisco.

Provincial Museumof Archaeology and Fine Art

29 Santa Cueva

Bathing pier. Cadiz

Tourist information officeHospitalParadorCar parkPoliceRailway stationBus station



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Baluarte deCapuchinos

Balneario dela Palma

Cartografa:GCAR S.L. Ao 2002

Plaza

ProfesorArtillo

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Jerezand the Sherry TriangleThrough broad pastures,rolling ranges and fields ofsunflower runs the roadto Jerez- Xera to thePhoenicians. If one had to

choose one single facet of thistown as outstanding above allothers (a tall order) then thismust be the bodegas and thesherry made there. In mid-September the town holds itsgrape-harvest festival.

Another unique feature is theClock Museum, situated in aNeo-classical palace, withmore than three hundredclocks, most of them Frenchand all in perfect repair. Thebest time to visit is noon, forobvious reasons. Visiting timesfor the bodegas are almostalways mornings only, fromMonday to Friday.

Best leave the afternoon tolook at monuments Jerez is,

after all, a classified site of

historic and architecturalinterest, with a BaroqueCollegiate church, Arab bathsat the Torre del Homenaje(Tower of Homage), andnumerous churches: SanMiguel, San Juan de losCaballeros, Santiago, SanMateo, San Marcos, SanDionisio, Convent of SantoDomingo, and many more.There are also magnificentlordly mansions the palacesof the Marquess of Montana,the Riquelme family, the

Marquess of Campo Real aCarthusian monastery, andsurviving parts of the citywalls, which are depicted inan illumination of theCanticles of King Alfonsothe Wise.

If there is time, visitors arerecommended to pay a visit tothe Royal Andalusian

Carthusian Monastery. Jerez

Arab baths. Jerez



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Ensenada de Bolonia

IV

A-4

340

IV

a

TrebujenaSanlcar

de BarramedaChipiona

RotaEl Puerto deSanta Mara

Puerto Real

San FernandoChiclana MedinaSidonia

Vejerde la Frontera

Barbate

Tarifa

Algeciras

Los Barrios

Gide l

San

Alcal delos Gazules Jimena

de la Frontera

Morn dela Fronter

a ue a

Jerez dela Frontera

Arcos dela Frontera

BornosPrado

del Rey

AlgodonalesVillamartnPuerto Serrano

Montellano

El Coronil

treraLos Palaciosy Villafranca

Las Cabezasde San Juan

Lebrija

Conil dela Frontera

CDIZ

Cabo de Trafalgar

Punta de Tarifa

Punta d Punta Camarinal

G o l f o

d e C d i z

PARQUE NATURALDE LOS

ALCORNOCALES

PARQUE NATURSIERRA DEGRAZALEMA




Santuario de El Roco

11

Academy of Equestrian Artand watch the famouscartujano horses perform.

Another interesting option isto go and listen to Flamencosinging, of which Jerez pridesitself on being the originalfount.

The city also has an Olympicstadium, a zoo, anExhibition Hall and amotor racing circuit whichhosts world-championshipmotor-cycle racing.

The other two vertices of thesherry triangle are El Puertode Santa Mara and Sanlcarde Barrameda.

Bodegas. Jerez

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Biblioteca

Sa n Ma rc os

Iglesia deS ta. Ana

Cartografa:GCAR S.L. Ao 2002

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P la zaAre na l

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Plaza dePlateros

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PlazaCatalua

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PlazaSan Juan

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PlazaSantiago

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JEREZJEREZ

Jerez de la Frontera 1 Fortress and Arab Mosque2 Almohad walls3 Church convent of Santo Domingo4 Basilica of Nuestra Seora de la Merced5 Church of Santiago6 Church of San Dionisio

7 Church of San Lucas8 Carthusian Monasteryof Santa Mara de la Defensin

9 Church of San Miguel10 Municipal Council House and Town Hall11 Permantin Palace12 Cathedral13 Domecq Palace

14 Clock Museum15 Zoological Gardens16 Royal Andalusian School

of Equestrian Art17 Palace of Riquelme18 Exhibition Hall19 Church of San Mateo20 Convent of San Francisco21

Church of San Juan de los Caballeros

Tourist information officeHospitalCar parkPoliceRailway stationBus station

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Situated at the mouth of theriver Guadalete,El Puerto deSanta Marais a popularbeach resort. It is throngedespecially at weekends asthousands of people come tosit at tables out on thepavement and enjoy seafood.Most popular are sole, squid

and a prodigious variety ofshellfish washed down, ofcourse, with fino sherry.

El Puerto is a seafaring townand was also one of the homeports for the voyages ofDiscovery.

Worth visiting are theVistahermosa residentialcomplex, the Puerto Sherrymarina complex and theCasino Baha de Cadiz.

Outstanding monuments arethe castle of San Marcos (a13th-century structure whereMozarabe remains are stillpreserved), the castle of DoaBlanca, the High Priory church,the Monastery of La Victoriaand the Capuchin convent.

El Puerto has some of thebest-known beaches in theprovince: La Puntilla,Valdelagrana, Fuentebravaand Vistahermosa.

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High Priory Church.El Puerto de Santa Mara

La Puntilla beach.El Puerto de Santa Mara



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The nameSanlcar deBarramedacomes from anancient temple named Luceroafter the goddess Venus, whowas worshipped by theTartessans. Sanlcar was a keyport in the voyages ofdiscovery to America.

It was from here that the

ill-starred Magellan sailed tocircumnavigate the world, avoyage that was eventuallycompleted by Juan SebastianElcano.

In the upper part of the townone can see palace-likeconvents, vast bodegas andlordly mansions. Particularlyfine is the church of Santa

Mara de la O, which has aChurrigueresque altarpieceand Mudejar doorways.

Sanlcar is set on a slope, withstreets running from the once-important castle of Santiago(now a ruin) down to thedistrict of Bajo de Gua onthe banks of the river

Guadalquivir, well known forits fine fish restaurants.

The river Guadalquivir wasonce the regular means oftravel from Sanlcar to Seville.Today, however, onlymerchant ships and luxuryyachts sail upriver and peopleprefer to make the journey byroad.

Sanlcar de Barrameda



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Coto de Doana andthe Romera of El RocoOver the river by boat isCotode Doana. One of Spainsloveliest national parks andone of the largest dune areasin Europe, Doana provides a

refuge for endangeredspecies; when spring comes,the sight of flocks ofthousands of birds coveringthe marshlands is anunforgettable one.

The only sign of humanhabitation in 32 kilometres ofbeach is Torre Carboneras, a16th-century watchtower.Inland are stretches of dunesand pinewoods. Early thiscentury the German

archaeologist Schulten spentseveral years in the hillsknown as Cerro del Trigo in afruitless search for thelegendary city of Tartessos.

Visitors to Doana can stillsee, half-hidden among thepine trees, straw-thatched

huts like the dwellings of theformer inhabitants of thearea, people who lived mainlyby fishing and charcoal-burning.

On the far side of the parkis the Acebuche VisitorReception Centre, wherevisitors can get information,arrange trips through the parkand buy souvenirs. Thesolitude ends as one nearsMatalascaas and theresidential estates begin.

There is a good metalled roadleading to the nearbySanctuary of El Roco.

Doana National Park



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Isla de Enmedio

Ensenada de Bolonia

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Mazagn

Matalascaas

Aznalczar

El Roco

La Antilla El Rompido

Sancti-Petri

CartayaLepe

PuntaUmbra

Isla Cristina

Ayamonte

del Puerto

MoguerPalos de laFrontera

TrebujenaSanlcar

de Barrameda

ChipionaRota

El Puerto deSanta Mara

Puerto Real

San FernandoChiclana MedinaSidonia

Vejerde la Fron

Barbate

Jerezde la Frontera

Arcos dla Fronter

DoLa Puebla del Ro

Aznalfarache

Bollullos Pardel Condado

Los Palacios

y VillafrancaLas Cabezasde San Juan

Lebrija

Conil dela Frontera

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Cabo de Trafalgar

Punta Camarinal

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El Rocois a normallyquiet villagewith some barsand restaurants.

At the Feast ofPentecost, however,the scene changesdramatically with thearrival of the famousRomera, a religiousfestival in which millionsof pilgrims gather to singthe praises of the Virgin more popularly known asthe Blanca Paloma or WhiteDove who appeared in the13th century and has becomeone of the most importantobjects of devotion in allAndalusia.

Romera de El Roco. Almonte

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Facing the Mudejar entranceof the church of San Jorge(14th century) is a smallmonolith bearing the namesof the sailors of Palos whotook part in the enterprise.For sixty of Columbusscompanions (among themthe Pinzn brothers, captainsof the other two ships) weredenizens of Palos, a littlewhite town 27 kilometresfrom Huelva where remindersof the epic voyage abound.If there is one place with aneternal link to the discovery ofAmerica, that place is Palos de

la Frontera.On the outskirts of Palos, nowsurrounded by gardens andflocks of children, is LaFontanilla (in Spanish littlefountain), where Columbustook on water for the longvoyage. On the main streetstands the house (nowrestored) of the Pinzn family,

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The Port of the ThreeCaravelsThe beach and the dunesstretch on for 18 kilometresto Mazagn, now a majorsummer resort. A little furtheron are La Rbida and Palos de

la Frontera.

Palos de la Frontera: Now asmall port situated some wayinland, it was from here thatthree carvels bearing ninetymariners set sail on 3 August1492, little knowing that theirvoyage would end with thediscovery of America.

Caravel. La Rbida

Beach of Mazagn



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Isla de Enmedio

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El Roco

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La Antilla

El Rompido La Rbida

Aljaraque Cartaya

Lepe

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Isla Cristina

Ayamonte

San Juandel Puerto

Gibralen

Moguer

Trigueros

Palos dela Frontera

La Palmadel Condado

TrebujenaSanlcarde Barrameda

ChipionaRota

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with the family crest. Not faraway, on the banks of theriver Tinto, is theMonasteryof La Rbida, where Columbusstayed. Here, Fray AntonioMarchena and Fray Juan Preznot only listened toColumbuss hare-brained

projects but succeeded inintroducing him to the Courtand helped convinceFerdinand and Isabella. LaRbida preserves frescoes bythe painter Vzquez Dazportraying scenes from theDiscovery. The Gothic-Mudejarchurch of La Rabida contains ashrine to Our Lady of theMiracles and a 14th-century

carving of Christ Crucified,one of the oldest in Andalusia.Inside are Mudejar roof-carvings, a 14th-centurycloister, another 18th-centurycloister and the Sala de lasBanderas or Hall of Banners,containing the tomb of MartnAlonso Pinzn.

Monastery of La Rbida

La Fontanilla. Palos de la Frontera



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Huelva Cathedral

Huelva

1 Sanctuary of the Virgende la Cinta

2 Hermitage of La Soledad3 Church of La Concepcin4 Church of La Milagrosa5 Riotinto quay6 Monument to Columbus7 Workers Quarter8 Church of San Pedro9

Casa Coln10 Church-Convent of Las Agustinas11 University and Cathedral

Tourist information officeHospitalCar parkPost officePoliceRailway stationBus station

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(now the Cathedral, with afine entrance). Perhaps thetwo most charming spots inthe city are the Paseo de lasPalmeras (adjacent to theport) and the white-walledSanctuary of the Virgen de laCinta (the local patroness)overlooking the town. From

here there is a splendid viewof the entire city, the estuaryand the nature zone of LasMarismas del Odiel - and thesunsets are unforgettable.The Sanctuary is decoratedwith tiles depicting the visitmade there by ChristopherColumbus.

Sanctuary of the Virgen de la Cinta.Huelva

point called thePunta del Sebo, topped by a great cross,a gigantic monument to theDiscovery gazes out towardsAmerica.

Although a provincial capital,Huelvastill preserves a certainmaritime air. The Phoenicians

called it Onuba. The presentname comes from the Arabs,who called it Guelbah andestablished a petty kingdomthere. Most of the city wasdestroyed in the earthquakesof the 18th century. Stillstanding, however, are an18th-century church, thechurches of San Pedro (aBaroque edifice built on theremains of the old mosque)and La Concepcin(16th century, rebuilt afterthe Lisbon earthquake),and the convent ofLa Merced



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On the way it is worthstopping at Isla de En medio,a nature zone, andLa Lagunadel Portil , now classified as anecological reserve. Further onisCartaya, a place known tothe Phoenicians, where onecan still see the ruins of asmall castle which wasoriginally Roman and laterArab. Cartaya is famous forthe beach and port ofEl Rompido, a strip of landseparating the river from thesea, and for the nature zones

From Punta Umbrato AyamonteThe last part of the Costa de laLuz begins atPunta Umbra.Surrounded by pine woods,the locality came into being inthe 14th century when it was

ordered that a tower, calledPunta de Umbra, be erectedto give advance warning ofpossible invasions. No morethan a small fishing villageuntil recently, it has nowbecome a major summerresort. During the summerone can go to and fromHuelva by canoas, as thelocals call the boats. Nearbyare Marismas de Odiel naturalpark andLos Enebralesnaturezone, a veritable paradise forwildlife species.

The road carries on along thecoast flanked on the one sideby pine woods and on theother by solitary beaches. Nowand again there are roadsiderestaurants and the odd

camping site.

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El Rompido. Cartaya

Los Enebrales Beach.Punta Umbra



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view of the town and themouth of the river Guadiana the best time is near sunset.Ayamontes popularity deriveschiefly from Canela and Moralbeaches (each five kilometreslong); although alreadybecoming lively in springtime,

the high season is from Juneto early September.

The end of the Costa de la Luzmarks the beginning ofPortugal, now much closersince the international bridgeover the Guadiana wasopened in 1991.

Isla de Enmedio

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San Silvestrede Guzmn

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Aznalczar

El Roco

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La Antilla El Rompido La Rbida

El Cuervo

Aljaraque CartayaLepe

PuntaUmbra

Isla Cristina

Ayamonte

San Juandel Puerto

Gibralen

Moguer

Trigueros

Palos de laFrontera

La Palmadel Condado

TrebujenaSanlcar

de Barrameda

Chi iona

Arcosla Fron

Camas

La Puebla del Ro

San Juan deAznalfarache


Los Palaciosy Villafranca

Lebrija

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of Ro Piedrasand Flechasdel Rompido. The Mirador orvantage point offers a

wonderful panoramic view.Next along is the beach ofLa Antillaand white Lepe,a prosperous truck-farmingtown with importantcooperatives and an intensedevotion to the Virgen de laBella, whose image is said tohave floated in from the sea.

And finally, atAyamonteonecomes to the end or thebeginning of the Costa dela Luz. Ayamonte has alwaysbeen a quiet fishing town,white houses sloping downto the harbour, where at anytime one will find fishermenmending their gaily-colourednets. Ayamonte is acorruption of the nameoriginally given it by the

Greeks: Anapotaman,meaning on the river.Set on a height is the Parador,which affords an excellent

Ayamonte

Plaza Mayor. Lepe

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The route of the ventas and the bulls

Ten kilometres inland risesVejer de la Frontera, averitable watchtower of Araborigin, from where one can seethe entire coast from Tarifa toCadiz. The triangle formed byVejer, Medina Sidonia andAlcal de los Gazules is knownas the Route of the Ventas,because the area containsmore country inns offeringlocal cuisine than anywhereelse in Andalusia - or Spain forthat matter. The route isbusiest at weekends as visitorsflock to try venison, gazpacho,pork loin in dripping or avariety of game dishes.

Alcal de los Gazulesis wortha visit to see the church of SanJorge and the hermitage of

the Virgen de los Santos.

Medina Sidonia, classified asa monumental town, stillpreserves three Arab gates,remnants of the ancientfortress whose stones are saidto have been used to buildthe Cathedral of Cadiz.

The best place to view Medinais theCortijo Pocasangre, fromwhere the town resembles aship of which the churchtower is the mainmast.

This is also the route of thefighting bull; in the area aremany estates where theseanimals are bred for the

Inlandroutes

Church of Santa Mara.Medina Sidonia

Alcal de los Gazules



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Sierra de Grazalema

whitewashed. This routecommences inGrazalema, amountain area classified as anatural park, whoseoutstanding point of interestis the pinsapo, a species of firwhich is a living relic left overfrom the last Alpine glacierperiod. At the other extremeArcos de la Frontera, probablythe loveliest ofall the townsin the range,stands

bull-ring. Another town,Benalup, is the entry-point toLos Alcornocales natural park,where visitors can see theNeolithic paintings in theCueva del Tajo de las Figuras,literally the Cave of thePainted Gorge.

The white townsRunning parallel to thecoastline rises the mountainrange known asLos PueblosBlancos, or The White Towns,so-called because they are all

Arcos de la Frontera



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perched on an immense cragoverlooking the riverGuadalete. Like many othertowns in the region, it bearsthe appellative de laFrontera because for nearlythree hundred years it was aborder outpost separatingArabs and Christians,followers of the cross and

followers of the crescent.

These lands were the scene ofmany battles, but also ofmany tragic legends featuringCastilian knights and Moorishprincesses or Arab princes andfair Christian captives. In theend, it was the Christianculture that prevailed, but theArab influence still lingers.

Other towns includeOlvera,clinging to its hilltop;Zaharade la Sierra, protected by aMoorish castle;Algodonales,famous for its waters and itspastries;El Gastorwith itsnearby dolmens;Ubrique, siteof numerous leather works;Benamahoma, where you canfind the best honey in thesemountains; orSetenil, most ofwhich is built beneathimmense rocks, so that inplaces the streets are liketunnels.

Olvera

Zahara de la Sierra



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Niebla and the winesof El CondadoThe arable land is bounded bythe river Odiel, which wasonce navigable right up toNieblabut now does no morethan lap the old Arab walls.The land was once held by theTartessans, and there are stillthe remains of a quay, mostprobably built in Roman times,like the bridge. Vessels oncesailed up to Niebla to take oncopper ore. Mining wasabandoned in the 15th centuryand resumed by the English in

the 18th

century. In the early11th century Niebla was thecapital of a petty independentkingdom, and it was herethat the Arabs first usedgunpowder in 1257, a centurybefore it became known inEurope. The two kilometres ofwalls surrounding the townare still an impressive sight.Nearby is the dolmen of Soto,

where a corridor of stone slabsleads into a central chambercontaining engravings. Thevale of the old County ofNiebla is surrounded byvineyards producing smooth,fruity white wines.

The nearest habitation is

La Palma del Condado,originally a Roman townwhere stone tablets have beenfound bearing inscriptionsalluding to the goodness of itsoil. At the same time as theSeptember fair one of theoldest in Spain La Palmacelebrates its Grape HarvestFestival, where the first mustof the season is offered up intribute to the patroness of thefields, the Virgen de la Gua.Seven kilometres further on isBollullos Par del Condado, theareas commercial centre,where grape is gatheredalongside olive, and the Dadel Vino, or Wine Day, iscelebrated, also in September.

Castle. Niebla

Church of Santiago Apstol.Bollullos Par del Condado



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The Sierra de AracenaOnce the scene of Templaractivity, this mountain area isdotted with small fortresses, alegacy of the Reconquest. Thereare places which were paganbefore becoming Christian,

legend-haunted grottoes,villages of white houses setamidst woods of holm and corkoak - and above all, the bestserrano ham in Spain.

Perched on a crag shielding thelovely town ofAljar(the namemeans stone in Arabic) standsthe sanctuary of Nuestra Seorade los Angeles, one of Spainsmost important religious sites(and the most important in thisSierra) and a good example ofhow our forebears alwaysselected the most beautifulsurroundings for theirdevotions. The rooms adjoiningthe church are replete withhundreds of votive offerings,objects left over the years inthanksgiving for some favour

vouchsafed by the Virgin.

It was to the grotto of Aljarthat Arias Montano, humanist,scientist, polyglot andresearcher, was forced by theInquisition to retire from theworld of mundane things,having been saved fromtorture only by his friendshipwith King Philip II.

After enjoying the magnificentview from the vantage point ofthe sanctuary, one leaves Aljarin the direction ofAracena,twelve kilometres away. Fromfar off, crowning the town, onecan make out the Almohadtower on which the banner ofthe Templars fluttered fornearly two centuries. Aracenahas always been a classicsummer resort for the citizensof Seville and Huelva. The mostinteresing feature, besides theCastle church, is a Grotto ofWonders that preservesbeautiful stalactites andstalagmites which are amongthe most extensive in Spain(the grotto is 1500 metres long).In the interior are 12 chambers

and six lakes.

Following the road to Portugalone comes toJabugo, a townfamous for the ham of thatname, which is immortalised inheartfelt stanzas by Lope deVega. Among the mountains,little towns likeCastao delRobledolie hidden, fineexamples of the traditionalmountain architecture.

Aljar



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For nearly six centuries thesehomes of fine ham belonged tothe Arabs, a people who nevertouched it. But they did buildcastles and mosques, some ofthem still standing today, andthey left a rich cultural legacywhich has come down to us inplace names like Almonaster,Aracena, Galaroza and manyothers.

Already before the Arabs, theregion had been peopled byCelts and Romans, InAroche,for example, Scipio stayed onhis arrival from Rome tocombat Viriato. In theneighbourhood of the presentbullring, once an Almoravidcastle, there are numerouslegend-haunted megaliths,known by the locals as Devilsstones.

Contrasting with such paganbeliefs, Aroche is home to oneof the most curious of religiousmuseums, the Museum of theHoly Rosary, which boastsa collection of nearly1300 rosaries. These have beendonated by popes, monarchs,politicians and famouspersonalities. And Aroche hasyet another museum theArchaeological Museum, which

is housed in the castle.

Grotto of Wonders. Aracena

Mosque. Almonaster



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an interesting mosque olderthan the mosque at Cordoba with fine columns. Alsointeresting are the Mudejarand Gothic houses, and thechurch of San Martn with a15th-century doorway in theManueline style.

The predominant tree speciesin these parts are thechestnut, oak and holm oak.There are cherry orchards veryclose by, inFuenteheridos,famous for its perennially-flowing twelve-spoutedfountain, and a little wayfarther on, inCorterrangel,there are orange groves.Cortelazor, barely a hamlettoday, was once the capital ofan independent pettykingdom. And right in themiddle of the mountains isValdelarco, a place for honeyand ham like all towns inthese mountains. Set on steep

slopes, Valdelarco is strikingfor its soleras, a species ofterraced cultivation.

Valdelarco

As well as the dolmens thereare remains of Roman roads,and the ruins of a 2nd-centuryamphitheatre on which theAlmoravids built a castle inthe 9th century. It is now acurious bull-ring. Near thehermitage of San Mames is ahamlet, originaly Roman,

where a major religiousfestival, or Romera, is held.

The surrounding area ispeppered with castles fromthe times of the strugglesbetween Arabs and Christians,and white-housed villageslying among holm- and cork-oak woods. Visitors to theSierra Pelada nature zone canwatch birds of prey, oneparticularly rare species beingthe black vulture.

Practically next door, at thefoot of the highest peak inthe range, liesAlmonaster,which has an Arab castle and



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Visitors to the town ofMinasde Riotintocan still see theEnglish quarter of Bella Vista,a classic example of Victorianarchitecture.

The road toCalaascrossesthe river Odiel, and there,amidst woodlands of

eucalyptus, the waters acquireall the colours of the rainbowbecause of the copper thatthey carry. Immediately on theother side of the river standsthe hermitage of the Virgende Coronada, patron saint ofthe district and site of a majorreligious festival (romera) onEaster Monday. The first thingthat strikes the eye onreaching Calaas is the churchof Santa Mara de Gua,surrounded by housesrecalling the towns miningpast.

Ro Tinto

Sierra MineraValverde del Caminowas oncea stop on a famous miningrailway when the English heldexclusive mining rights.The railway no longer exists,but the English influence is

still apparent in some ofthe buildings, like the Casa deDireccin or managementhouse and the railwayoffices. But those wishing tosee real mining scenery shouldvisit the Riotinto mining area,which is allegedly the largestopencast mining works in theworld and has been inexistence for 5,000 years.The place is known asthe cerro colorado, or redhill because of the pyriteswhich give the soil its redcolour.



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Leisure andentertainment

FoodTo be recommended are wines,oil, cured meats (mainly Jabugo

ham), but above all shellfish (kingprawn, Norway lobster andostiones a large, coarse varietyof oyster), seafood soups andfried fish (sardine, tuna, sole, urta[toothed gilthead] and plaice). Allalong the coast, choco a varietyof large squid is a speciality, andthe best way to enjoy it and otherdelicacies is by having tapas in thebars. The cuisine of Cadiz andHuelva is generally based onsimple, old-time recipes.

WinesThe Jerez-Sherry appellation oforigin embraces the triangleformed by Jerez, Sanlcar deBarrameda and El Puerto deSanta Mara, although it can

also be extended to parts ofChiclana, Chipiona, Rota andTrebujena. What makes thesewines special, apart from the

climate, are the proceduresused in the winemakingprocess, such as mixing oldwines with new, so that wetalk of soleras rather thanvintages. Another specialfeature is the formation of alayer of fermentation theflor which is what

determines whether or not awine will be a fino. If the flordoes not appear, the wine willbe an oloroso. Depending oncolour, flavour and strength,sherries can be classified asfinos, amontillados, olorosos,moscateles, palo cortado orPedro Ximnez. The mostimportant wines from theprovince of Huelva are those ofEl Condado, which are similarto sherry in type. Theproduction is consumed almostexclusively in Andalusia.

Where to stayThroughout the Costa dela Luz accommodation is easy

to find, be it in Paradors,hotels or hostels, apartments,bungalows, country housesor camping-sites. However,if you decide to go at timesof year like Easter or summer,it is advisable to book inadvance. The Costa dela Luz has four Paradors twoin the province of Cadizand two in the province ofHuelva.



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Royal Andalusian School of Equestrian Art

Carnival in Cadiz

Festivalsof interest to touristsBulls, horses, song and wine these are the essentialcomponents of the festivals ofthe Costa de la Luz. The provinceof Cadiz offers three festivals thatare classified as of InternationalTourist Interest. These are theCarnival of Cadiz, the Horse Fairof Jerez (10 to 17 May) and theHorse Racing on the beach atSanlcar de Barrameda (month ofAugust). Classified as of NationalTourist Interest are Holy Week inArcos de la Frontera, CorpusChristi in Zahara de la Sierra andthe Fair of Exaltation of the

Guadalquivir in Sanlcar deBarrameda (from 28 to 30August). The province of Huelvahosts the most famous romera inthe whole of Spain that ofEl Roco in Almonte. This takesplace at the Feast of Pentecost,but during the month of Maythere are numerous romerasthroughout the province ofHuelva, the most important beingat Cartaya, Lepe and Moguer.

Natural areasCadizhas two natural parks:Los Alcornocales (InformationOffice in Alcal de los Gazules.% 956 413 307) and Sierrade Grazalema (InformationOffice in El Bosque,

% 956 727 029).

Huelva. Besides DoanaNational Park, there are threeNature Reserves: Isla deEnmedio, Laguna de El Portiland Marisma de El Burro; eightNature Zones: Los Enebrales atPunta Umbra, Estero deDomingo Rubio, Lagoons ofPalos and Las Madres, Marshesof Isla Cristina, Marshes of theriver Odiel, Marshes of theriver Piedras and Flecha delRompido, Peas de Aroche,Sierra Pelada and Rivera delAserrador; and there is oneNatural Park: Sierra de Aracenaand Picos de Aroche.Designated natural areasoccupy a total of 210 hectaresin addition to the 105,000 ha

of Doana National Park.% 959 430 [email protected]



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International countrydialling code% 34

TURESPAA Tourist information% 901 300 600www.spain.infoAndalusian Tourist Informationwww.andalucia.org

USEFUL INFORMATION

In Cadiz:Arcos de la FronteraPlaza del Cabildo% 956 702 264BarbateVzquez de Mella, 2% 956 433 962Cadiz. Avenida Ramn de Carranza% 956 203 191ConilCarretera, 1.% 956 440 501Chiclana de la FronteraVega, 6% 956 535 969ChipionaJuan Carlos I% 956 377 263

El Puerto de Santa MaraLuna, 22.% 956 542 475GrazalemaPlaza Espaa, 11.% 956 132 225Jerez de la FronteraAlameda Cristina% 956 359 654Medina SidoniaPlaza de la Iglesia Mayor% 956 324 747Sanlcar de Barrameda

Calzada del Ejercito s/n% 956 366 110

Setenil de las BodegasVilla, 2.% 956 134 261Tarifa. Paseo de La Alameda% 956 680 993Zahara de la SierraPlaza del Rey, 7.% 956 123 114In Huelva:AracenaPozo de la Nieve% 959 128 206AyamonteHuelva, 27% 959 320 737El Roco (Almonte)Avda. de la Canaliega, s/n% 959 443 808HuelvaAlcalde Coto Mora,2% 959 650 200MatalascaasParque Dunar% 959 430 086MazagnEdificio Mancomunidad% 956 376 044MoguerCastillo.% 959 371 898Niebla

Campo del Castillo% 959 362 270

TOURIST OFFICES

Central Booking OfficeRequena, 3. 28013 Madrid% 902 547 979) 902 525 432www.parador.esParador de CadizDuque de Njera, 9% 956 226 905) 956 214 582

Parador de Arcos dela Frontera (Cadiz)Plaza del Cabildo% 956 700 500) 956 701 116Parador de Ayamonte (Huelva)Avenida de la Constitucin% / ) 959 320 700Parador de Mazagn (Huelva)Playa de Mazagn% 959 536 300) 959 536 228

PARADORS

RENFE% 902 240 202Internacional Information% 902 243 402www.renfe.es

Buses in Cadiz% 902 199 208% 956 285 852Buses in Huelva% 959 256 900Highway Information

TRANSPORTS

In CadizAlameda Apodaca, 22% 956 807 061www.cadizturismo.com

In HuelvaFernando el Catlico, 18% 959 258 467www.turismohuelva.org

TOURIST BOARDS


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