· face clamp can be helpful for holding the boards flush as you drive in screws. create four...

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© 2013 Kreg Tool Co. All Rights Reserved. Version 1 p. 1

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Materials:

Lumber Qty: Board 1 1/2x2 – 2 ft. long 1 1/2x2 – 4 ft. long 1 1x2 – 2 ft. long 9 1x2 – 8 ft. long 23 1x3 – 8 ft. long 2 1x6 – 10 ft. long 4 2x2 – 3 ft. long 3 1/4-inch x 4x8-foot sheet of plywood 2 3/4-inch x 4x8-foot sheet of plywood

Supplies:

1 1/4-inch Kreg pocket-hole screws (coarse thread for softwoods, fine thread for hardwoods)

1-inch Kreg pocket-hole screws

pocket-hole-plugs

5/8-inch wire brads

8 – 1 1/2-inch door hinges

4 – door pulls

4 – magnetic catches

shelf pins

wood glue

primer/paint or stain/polyurethane

Tools:

Kreg Jig®

table saw or circular saw with Kreg Rip-Cut™

miter saw

router with various bits

sander

drill/driver

Kreg Shelf Pin Jig

Kreg Face Clamp (optional)

Kreg Right Angle Clamp (optional)

INSTRUCTIONS: Before you begin building, take time to look over the Parts List, Cutting Diagram, and the illustrations to familiarize yourself with how the media center goes together. You’ll see that each tower consists of a front frame, a back frame, and two end frames. Each frame has slight differences, so keep careful track of the parts as you work. Also, if you’re building the towers and console as shown, you’ll want to note that the towers will be mirror images of one another. It’s also a good idea to cut the parts needed for each step as you go, rather than cutting everything all at once. This way, you if you should cut any parts incorrectly, you can either re-cut them or modify other parts to make up any differences. For this project, you’ll be able to set up your Kreg Jig and Drill Bit Stop Collar for 3/4"-thick stock unless otherwise noted. Step 1: Create the Tower Frames The towers are by creating a pair of end frames, a front frame, and a back frame that will later get attached together and enclosed. Start by working on the frames. 1. Start by cutting 12 End Rails (6 for each tower) to size as shown. All 12 get pocket holes at the ends, and four of them also get a

pocket hole along one edge. Those will be used at the top of each end frame. 2. Cut 4 Mid Stiles (2 for each tower) and drill pocket holes as shown. 3. Attach the Mid Stiles to the End Rails that do not have the extra pocket hole along one edge using 11/4" Kreg Screws. Note: A Kreg

Face Clamp can be helpful for holding the boards flush as you drive in screws. Create four assemblies. 4. Cut 16 Stiles (8 for each tower) to size and cut the taper at the end of each one. Then set 8 Stiles aside. These will not get pocket

holes. Drill pocket holes in the remaining 8 Stiles as shown. 5. Attach the Mid Stile assembly to the Stiles that have pocket holes. Also add the End Rails that have an extra pocket hole as

shown. Use 11/4" Kreg Screws. Note: A Kreg Face Clamp can be helpful for holding the boards flush as you drive in screws. Create four assemblies.

6. Cut 12 Front/Back Rails (6 for each tower) to size as shown. Once again, all 12 get pocket holes at the ends, and four of them get a pocket hole along one edge. Those will be used at the top of each front/back frame.

7. Attach the Rails to the remaining Stiles that do not have pocket holes to create front frame and a back frame. Notice that the uppermost rails once again are the ones with a pocket hole along one edge. Also, the middle rail is located in a different position in the front frame than in the back frame.

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Step 2: Create the Cabinet Base Assemblies To create a tower, the frames first get joined together. 8. Attach the End Frames to the Back Frame using 11/4" Kreg Screws. The middle End Rails and middle Back Rail should line up.

Note: A Kreg Right Angle Clamp can be helpful for holding frames in place as you drive in screws. 9. Cut a Tower Bottom to size for each tower and drill pocket holes as shown. 10. Attach the Bottom and the Front Frame using 11/4" Kreg Screws. The middle rail in the front frame WILL NOT align with the others.

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Step 3: Add the Top and Back and Side panels Next, plywood panels get slipped inside and attached to the frames. This step may remind you of building a ship in a bottle, because you’ll cut the sides and back, slip them inside the tower assembly, and then attach the top before you permanently attach the sides and back. 11. Cut the plywood Back and Sides to size as shown 12. Lay the tower assembly on its back, and then slide the plywood Back and Sides into the assembly with the good face of each

panel facing up. 13. Cut a Top to size for each tower and drill pocket holes as shown. 14. Cut Long Edging and Short Edging for the Top. To get the tightest fit, start by cutting the edging slightly longer than the

dimensions in the Parts List and dry fit the parts prior to assembly. Then, attach the edging using 11/4" Kreg Screws. 15. Now you can attach the Top. First, tilt the plywood Back and Side up enough so you can access the pocket holes in the uppermost

back rail, and then attach the top using a 11/4" Kreg Screw. 16. Lay the Back and Sides back down and continue to attach the Top. 17. Tip one Side panel into place, and then attach it to the End Rails and Stiles using 5/8" brads. Tip the other Side into place and

attach it. 18. Attach the Back to the Back Rails and Stiles using 5/8" brads.

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Step 4: Add the Shelves With the towers enclosed you can add shelves. Each tower has one fixed shelf and three mobile/adjustable shelves—two above the fixed shelf and one below. 19. Using a Kreg Shelf Pin Jig, drill shelf pin holes in your desired locations inside the assembly as shown. Because the shelf-pin

holes will be deeper than the thickness of the plywood side panels, be sure that you locate the pin holes so that you drill into the end frame stiles.

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20. Cut a Fixed Shelf and drill pocket holes as shown. 21. Insert the Fixed Shelf into the tower and position it so that it is flush with the top edge of the middle Front Rail. Then attach the

Fixed Shelf using 11/4" Kreg Screws. 22. Cut 3 Mobile Shelves for each tower and drill pocket holes as shown. 23. Cut Shelf Edging and attach it to each Mobile Shelf using 11/4" Kreg Screws. 24. Insert shelf pins in the desired locations and then insert the Mobile Shelves to test their fit.

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Step 5: Build Cabinet Doors Adding doors to the lower portion of each tower dresses them up and provides a place to store items out of sight. 25. Cut 4 Cabinet Door Rails (two for each tower) and drill pocket holes as shown. 26. Cut 4 Cabinet Door Stiles (two for each tower) as shown. These do not get pocket holes. 27. Attach the Cabinet Door Rails to the Stiles using 11/4" Kreg Screws. 28. Using a router fitted with a 3/8" rabbet bit, cut a 3/8"-wide by 1/4"-deep rabbet on the inside of the door frame assembly as shown.

Use a chisel to square up the corners. 29. Cut a Cabinet Door Mid Stile for each door from 1/2"-thick stock. 30. Drill pocket holes in the Mid Stiles as shown, first making sure that you set your Kreg Jig and drill bit for 1/2"-thick stock. 31. Cut a plywood Cabinet Door Panel to size for each door. 32. Attach the Door Panel to the door frame using glue and 5/8" brads as shown. 33. Attach the Doors to the towers using 11/2" -inch door hinges as shown. Make sure you attach the doors on the two cabinets so they

open in opposite directions from one another. 34. Attach a magnetic catch to the inside of each tower and on the doors, and then attach door handles or pulls.

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Step 6: Build the Console Base Assembly The console is built in a similar way to the towers, with frames that get enclosed, plus fixed and adjustable shelves. The console also gets a top panel made from 1x6 boards. Start by making the frames. 35. Cut Console End Mid Stiles and Console End Mid Rails to size and drill pocket holes as shown. 36. Cut Console End Aprons and Console End Rails to size and drill pocket holes as shown. 37. Assemble the Console End Frames by attaching the Rails, Stiles, and Aprons using 11/4" Kreg Screws. 38. Cut Console Front/Back Mid Stiles and Console Front/Back Mid Rails to size and drill pocket holes as shown. 39. Cut Console Front/Back Aprons and Console Front/Back Rails to size and drill pocket holes as shown. 40. Assemble the Console Front/Back Frames by attaching the Rails, Stiles, and Aprons using 11/4" Kreg Screws. 41. Cut 4 Console Legs to size. These do not get pocket holes. 42. Attach the Legs to the Front/Back Assemblies using 11/4" Kreg Screws. Use scrap cut from 1/2"-thick stock to create the 1/2" offset

between the frames and the legs. 43. Attach the End Frames to the Legs using 11/4" Kreg Screws. Again, be sure to position the End Frames so there’s a 1/2" offset with

the Legs

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Step 7: Build and Attach the Console Top The Top is made from attaching four slats cut from 1x6s that get joined together edge-to-edge. 44. Cut 4 Top Slats to size. 45. Drill pocket holes in the Top Slats as shown. You’ll need to drill pocket holes in both edges of the middle two slats, as shown. Both

of the outer slats get h9oles in one edge as shown. 46. Attach the Top Slats together using 11/4" Kreg Screws to create the Console Top. Note: A Kreg Face Clamp can be helpful for

holding the boards flush as you drive in screws. 47. Lay the Console Top so that the pocket holes are facing up. Position the base so that the top overhangs as shown, and then attach

the Base to the Top using 11/4" Kreg Screws.

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Step 8: Attach the Console Panels, Dividers and Shelves Now the Console can be enclosed with panels, dividers, and shelves. 48. Cut a Console Back Panel to size. 49. Insert the Back Panel as shown, making sure it is pushed flush against the Top. Attach the panel to the Stiles and Rails of the Back

Frame using 5/8" brads. 50. Now is the best time to drill any holes that you need in the Back Panel to allow for cords to extend through the assembly and to

allow for any heat build up from electronic devices to escape. If you need to add more later, you can. 51. Cut Console End Panels to size. 52. Insert the End Panels as shown, making sure they are pushed flush against the Top. Attach the panel to the Stiles and Rails of the

End Frames using 5/8" brads. 53. Cut a Top Divider to size and drill pocket holes as shown. 54. Mark a center line on the Back Panel, and then insert the Top Divider and attach it using 11/4" Kreg Screws. 55. Cut a Console Shelf and a Console Bottom to size and drill pocket holes as shown. 56. Insert the Shelf into the assembly making sure it is flush against the Top Divider. Attach the shelf using 11/4" Kreg Screws. 57. Cut a Bottom Divider to size and drill pocket holes as shown. 58. Insert the Bottom Divider into the assembly, making sure it is flush against the Shelf. Attach the Bottom Divider using 11/4" Kreg

Screws. 59. Use your Kreg Shelf Pin Jig to drill shelf-pin holes in the Bottom Divider and in the End panels. Once again, because the shelf-pin

holes will be deeper than the thickness of the plywood end panels, be sure that you locate the pin holes so that you drill into the end frame stiles.

60. Insert the Console Bottom into the assembly making sure it is flush against the Bottom Divider, and the attach the Bottom using 11/4" Kreg Screws.

61. Cut an Adjustable Shelf to size and drill shelf-pin holes as shown. 62. Cut Shelf Edging and attach it to each Shelf using 11/4" Kreg Screws. 63. Insert shelf pins and the Adjustable Shelves to check their fit.

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Step 9: Build and attach the Console Doors Now you can add doors to the console. They’re made in the same way as the doors in the towers. 64. Cut 4 Console Door Rails (two for each tower) and drill pocket holes as shown. 65. Cut 4 Console Door Stiles (two for each tower) as shown. These do not get pocket holes. 66. Attach the Door Rails to the Stiles using 11/4" Kreg Screws. 67. Using a router fitted with a 3/8" rabbet bit, cut a 3/8"-wide by 1/4"-deep rabbet on the inside of the door frame assembly as shown.

Use a chisel to square up the corners. 68. Cut a Console Door Mid Stile for each door from 1/2"-thick stock. 69. Drill pocket holes in the Mid Stiles as shown, first making sure that you set your Kreg Jig and drill bit for 1/2"-thick stock. 70. Cut a plywood Console Door Panel to size for each door. 71. Attach the Door Panel to the door frame using glue and 5/8" brads as shown. 72. Attach the Doors to the console using 11/2" -inch door hinges as shown. Make sure you attach the doors on the two cabinets so

they open in opposite directions from one another. 73. Attach a magnetic catch to the inside of each tower and on the doors, and then attach door handles or pulls.

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Step 10: Finishing Touches If you used glue, Scrape off any glue and sand as needed. Then give the parts a final sanding. Whenever possible, always sand with the grain (along the length of the boards) rather than across the grain. This helps prevent unwanted scratches, which is especially important if you plan to stain or use a clear finish. If painting, apply two coats of primer (sanding between coats) and paint as desired. If staining, apply desired stain and clear finish, making sure to sand or rub with steel wool between coats. Overall Finished Dimensions:

Height: 70 3/4 inches Width: 101 inches Depth: 22 inches

Cabinet: Height: 70 3/4 Width: 26 1/2

Depth: 21

Console: Height: 29 3/4 Width: 49 1/2

Depth: 22

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Parts List: Cabinets Part Quantity Size End Rails 12 3/4 x 2 1/2 x 13 Mid Stiles 4 3/4 x 1 1/2 x 43 1/2 Stiles 16 3/4 x 2 1/2 x 70 Front/Back Rails 12 3/4 x 2 1/2 x 20 Bottom 2 3/4 x 18 x 23 1/2 Back 2 1/4 x 23 1/4 x 65 1/2 Sides 4 1/4 x 17 1/2 x 65 1/2 Top 2 3/4 x 19 1/2 x 25 Long Top Edging 4 3/4 x 1 1/2 x 26 1/2* Short Top Edging 4 3/4 x 1 1/2 x 21* Fixed Shelf 2 3/4 x 17 5/8 x 23 Mobile Shelves 6 3/4 x 16 3/4 x 22 3/4 Shelf Trim 6 3/4 x 1 1/2 x 22 3/4 Cabinet Door Rails 4 3/4 x 1 1/2 x 16 3/4 Cabinet Door Stiles 2 3/4 x 1 1/2 x 23 3/4 Cabinet Door Mid Stiles 2 1/2 x 1 1/2 x 20 3/4 Cabinet Door Panels 2 1/4 x 17 3/8 x 21 3/8 Console Part Quantity Size Console End Mid Rails 2 3/4 x 2 1/2 x 13 Console End Mid Stiles 2 3/4 x 1 1/2 x 14 Console End Aprons 2 3/4 x 2 1/2 x 18 Console End Rails 2 3/4 x 2 1/2 x 18 Console Stiles 8 3/4 x 2 1/2 x 22 Console Front/Back Mid Rails 4 3/4 x 2 1/2 x 17 3/4 Console Front/Back Mid Stiles 2 3/4 x 1 1/2 x 22 Console Front/Back Aprons 2 3/4 x 2 1/2 x 42 Console Front/Back Rails 2 3/4 x 2 1/2 x 42 Legs 4 1 1/2 x 1 1/2 x 29 Top Slats 4 3/4 x 5 1/2 x 49 1/2 Console Back Panel 1 1/4 x 41 7/8 x 27 Console End Panels 2 1/4 x 17 7/8 x 27 Top Divider 1 3/4 x 18 3/16 x 8 1/2 Shelf 1 3/4 x 18 3/16 x 41 15/16 Bottom Divider 1 3/4 x 18 3/16 x 15 3/4 Console Bottom 1 3/4 x 18 3/16 x 41 15/16 Adjustable Shelves 2 3/4 x 17 1/8 x 20 3/8 Adjustable Shelf Edging 2 3/4 x 1 1/2 x 20 3/8 Console Door Rails 4 3/4 x 1 1/2 x 14 1/2 Console Door Stiles 4 3/4 x 1 1/2 x 13 3/4 Console Door Mid Stiles 2 1/2 x 1 1/2 x 10 3/4 Console Door Panels 2 1/4 x 15 1/8 x 11 3/8

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Cutting Diagram:

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Materials:

Lumber: QTY: Board: 7 1/4x2 x 4 1 1/2x2 x 2 1 1/2x2 x 4 1 1/2x6 x 2 7 1/2x6 x 4 1 1x2 x 2 9 1x2 x 8 1 1x3 x 4 23 1x3 x 8 1 1x6 x 4 2 1x6 x 10 4 2x2 x 3 1 1/4-inch x 2x4-foot sheet of plywood 3 1/4-inch x 4x8-foot sheet of plywood 1 3/4-inch x 4x4-foot sheet of plywood 2 3/4-inch x 4x4-foot sheet of plywood

Supplies:

1 1/4-inch Kreg pocket-hole screws (coarse thread for softwoods, fine thread for hardwoods)

1-inch Kreg pocket-hole screws (coarse thread for softwoods, fine thread for hardwoods)

pocket-hole-plugs

5/8-inch wire brads

8 – 1 1/2-inch door hinges

4 – door pulls

2 – drawer pulls

8 - 16-inch drawer slides

4 – magnetic catches

shelf pins

1/4-inch glass

wood glue

primer/paint or stain/polyurethane

Tools:

KregJig®

table saw or circular saw with Kreg Rip-Cut™

miter saw

router with various bits

sander

drill/driver

Kreg Shelf Pin Jig

Kreg Face Clamp (optional)

Kreg Right Angle Clamp (optional)

INSTRUCTIONS: Before you begin building, take time to look over the Parts List, Cutting Diagram, and the illustrations to familiarize yourself with how the entertainment center goes together. You’ll see that each tower consists of a front frame, a back frame, and two end frames. Each frame has slight differences, so keep careful track of the parts as you work. The console construction is similar. Also, if you’re building the towers and console as shown, you’ll want to note that the towers will be mirror images of one another. The towers and the center console both have doors with glass panels. We’ve devised a simplified way to build the doors so you’ll be able to add the glass easily. We’ve made drawer construction as simple as possible, as well. It’s also a good idea to cut the parts needed for each step as you go, rather than cutting everything all at once. This way, you if you should cut any parts incorrectly, you can either re-cut them or modify other parts to make up any differences. For this project, you’ll be able to set up your Kreg Jig and Drill Bit Stop Collar for 3/4"-thick stock unless otherwise noted. Step 1: Create the Tower Frames The towers are by creating a pair of end frames, a front frame, and a back frame that will later get attached together and enclosed. Start by working on the frames. 1. Start by cutting 12 End Rails (6 for each tower) to size as shown. All 12 get pocket holes at the ends, and four of them also get a

pocket hole along one edge. Those will be used at the top of each end frame. 2. Cut 4 Mid Stiles (2 for each tower) and drill pocket holes as shown. 3. Attach the Mid Stiles to the End Rails that do not have the extra pocket hole along one edge using 11/4" Kreg Screws. Note: A Kreg

Face Clamp can be helpful for holding the boards flush as you drive in screws. Create four assemblies. 4. Cut 16 Stiles (8 for each tower) to size and cut the taper at the end of each one. Then set 8 Stiles aside. These will not get pocket

holes. Drill pocket holes in the remaining 8 Stiles as shown. 5. Attach the Mid Stile assembly to the Stiles that have pocket holes. Also add the End Rails that have an extra pocket hole as

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shown. Use 11/4" Kreg Screws. Note: A Kreg Face Clamp can be helpful for holding the boards flush as you drive in screws. Create four assemblies.

6. Cut 14 Front/Back Rails (7 for each tower) to size as shown. Once again, all 14 get pocket holes at the ends, and four of them get a pocket hole along one edge. Those will be used at the top of each front/back frame.

7. Attach the Rails to the remaining Stiles that do not have pocket holes to create front frame and a back frame. Notice that the uppermost rails once again are the ones with a pocket hole along one edge. Also, instead of just one middle rail, the front frame gets two. The drawer you’ll build later fits between these rails.

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Step 2: Create the Cabinet Base Assemblies To create a tower, the frames first get joined together. 8. Attach the End Frames to the Back Frame using 11/4" Kreg Screws. The middle End Rails and middle Back Rail should line up.

Note: A Kreg Right Angle Clamp can be helpful for holding frames in place as you drive in screws. 9. Cut a Tower Bottom to size for each tower and drill pocket holes as shown. 10. Attach the Bottom and the Front Frame using 11/4" Kreg Screws. The middle rail in the front frame WILL NOT align with the others.

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Step 3: Add the Top and Back and Side panels Next, plywood panels get slipped inside and attached to the frames. This step may remind you of building a ship in a bottle, because you’ll cut the sides and back, slip them inside the tower assembly, and then attach the top before you permanently attach the sides and back. 11. Cut the plywood Back and Sides to size as shown 12. Lay the tower assembly on its back, and then slide the plywood Back and Sides into the assembly with the good face of each

panel facing up. 13. Cut a Top to size for each tower and drill pocket holes as shown. 14. Cut Long Edging and Short Edging for the Top. To get the tightest fit, start by cutting the edging slightly longer than the

dimensions in the Parts List and dry fit the parts prior to assembly. Then, attach the edging using 11/4" Kreg Screws. 15. Now you can attach the Top. First, tilt the plywood Back and Side up enough so you can access the pocket holes in the uppermost

back rail, and then attach the top using a 11/4" Kreg Screw. 16. Lay the Back and Sides back down and continue to attach the Top. 17. Tip one Side panel into place, and then attach it to the End Rails and Stiles using 5/8" brads. Tip the other Side into place and

attach it. 18. Attach the Back to the Back Rails and Stiles using 5/8" brads.

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Step 4: Add the Shelves and Drawers With the towers enclosed you can add shelves and drawers. Each tower has one two fixed shelves and three mobile/adjustable shelves—two above the fixed shelves and one below. 19. Using a Kreg Shelf Pin Jig, drill shelf pin holes in your desired locations inside the assembly as shown. Because the shelf-pin

holes will be deeper than the thickness of the plywood side panels, be sure that you locate the pin holes so that you drill into the end frame stiles.

20. Cut 4 Fixed Shelves (2 for each tower) to size. Set two aside, and drill pocket holes in two as shown. 21. Insert the Fixed Shelf with pocket holes into each tower assembly and position it so that it is flush with the top edge of the lower

middle Front Rail as shown. Then attach the Fixed Shelf using 11/4" Kreg Screws. 22. Cut 4 Drawer Slide Mount Rails (2 for each tower) and drill pocket holes as shown. 23. Position the Drawer Slide Mount Rails flush against the Fixed Shelf and the edge of the front Stile as shown. Attach them using

using 11/4" Kreg Screws. You will add the other Fixed Shelves (without pocket holes) after creating and adjusting the Cabinet Drawers.

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24. Cut 4 Upper Mobile Shelves (2 for each tower) and drill pocket holes as shown. 25. Cut 2 Lower Mobile Shelves (1 for each tower) and drill pocket holes as shown. 26. Cut Shelf Edging and attach it to each Mobile Shelf using 11/4" Kreg Screws. 27. Insert shelf pins in the desired locations and then insert the Mobile Shelves to test their fit.

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Step 5: Build Tower Drawers Now you can add drawers to the towers. They’re made up of drawer boxes built from 1/2"-thick stock, with 3/4" drawer fronts that get added. Everything goes together with pocket screws, except or the plywood bottom that fits into a groove. 28. Before making the drawers, be sure to measure the opening in the Tower and determine if the drawer slides you selected will work

with the drawer dimensions. Most drawer slides require 1/2" of clearance on each side of the drawer. Make adjustments to the length of the Cabinet Drawer Ends as needed.

29. Rip the 1/2"x6 boards to 4 inches wide. 30. Using a router (or router table) and a 1/4" straightedge bit, cut a 1/4" deep groove 1/4" from the edge of the ripped boards. 31. Cut Drawer Ends and Drawer Sides from the ripped, grooved boards and drill pocket holes as shown. Make sure that your Kreg

Jig and drill bit are set up for 1/2" stock. 32. Cut plywood Drawer Bottoms to size. 33. Assemble the drawer boxes by attaching the Drawer Ends to one Drawer Side using 1" Kreg Screws. Then, slip the Drawer Bottom

in place, and attach the other Drawer Side. 34. Cut Drawer Fronts to size, and then attach them to the drawer boxes using 1" Kreg Screws so the fronts are centered on the

boxes. 35. Attach drawer slides to the drawer and the Drawer Slide Mount Rails and adjust them following the manufacturer’s directions. 36. Install the other Fixed Shelf (the one without pocket holes) atop the Drawer Slide Mount Rails using glue.

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Step 6: Build Cabinet Doors Adding doors to the lower portion of each tower dresses them up and provides enclosed storage. Glass panels add an extra touch of style. 37. Cut 4 Cabinet Door Rails (two for each tower) and drill pocket holes as shown. 38. Cut 4 Cabinet Door Stiles (two for each tower) as shown. These do not get pocket holes. 39. Attach the Cabinet Door Rails to the Stiles using 11/4" Kreg Screws. 40. Using a router fitted with a 3/8" rabbet bit, cut a 3/8"-wide by 1/4"-deep rabbet on the inside of the door frame assembly as shown.

Use a chisel to square up the corners. 41. Cut a Cabinet Door Mid Stile for each door from 1/2"-thick stock. 42. Drill pocket holes in the Mid Stiles as shown, first making sure that you set your Kreg Jig and drill bit for 1/2"-thick stock. 43. Have the glass cut (or do it yourself) , and set the glass set in place in the door. 44. Cut Long Cabinet Door Strips and Short Cabinet Door Strips to size. 45. Attach the Strips using glue and 5/8" 46. Attach the Doors to the towers using 11

/2" -inch door hinges as shown. Make sure you attach the doors on the two cabinets so they open in opposite directions from one another.

47. Attach a magnetic catch to the inside of each tower and on the doors, and then attach door handles or pulls.

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Step 7: Build the Console Base Assembly The console is built in a similar way to the towers, with frames that get enclosed, plus fixed and adjustable shelves. The console also gets a top panel made from 1x6 boards. Start by making the frames. 48. Cut Console End Mid Stiles and Console End Mid Rails to size and drill pocket holes as shown. 49. Cut Console End Aprons and Console End Rails to size and drill pocket holes as shown. 50. Assemble the Console End Frames by attaching the Rails, Stiles, and Aprons using 11/4" Kreg Screws. 51. Cut Console Front/Back Mid Stiles and Console Front/Back Mid Rails to size and drill pocket holes as shown. 52. Cut Console Front/Back Aprons and Console Front/Back Rails to size and drill pocket holes as shown. 53. Assemble the Console Front/Back Frames by attaching the Rails, Stiles, and Aprons using 11/4" Kreg Screws. 54. Cut 4 Console Legs to size. These do not get pocket holes. 55. Attach the Legs to the Front/Back Assemblies using 11/4" Kreg Screws. Use scrap cut from 1/2"-thick stock to create the 1/2" offset

between the frames and the legs. 56. Attach the End Frames to the Legs using 11/4" Kreg Screws. Again, be sure to position the End Frames so there’s a 1/2" offset with

the Legs

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Step 8: Build and Attach the Console Top The Top is made from attaching four slats cut from 1x6s that get joined together edge-to-edge. 57. Cut 4 Top Slats to size. 58. Drill pocket holes in the Top Slats as shown. You’ll need to drill pocket holes in both edges of the middle two slats, as shown. Both

of the outer slats get h9oles in one edge as shown. 59. Attach the Top Slats together using 11/4" Kreg Screws to create the Console Top. Note: A Kreg Face Clamp can be helpful for

holding the boards flush as you drive in screws. 60. Lay the Console Top so that the pocket holes are facing up. Position the base so that the top overhangs as shown, and then attach

the Base to the Top using 11/4" Kreg Screws.

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Step 9: Build Console Drawers The drawers for the console are built just like the tower drawers. Once again, measure the openings in the Console before you build the drawers. Make adjustments to the length of the Drawer Ends as needed. 61. Cut Drawer Ends and Drawer Sides from the ripped, grooved boards you created earlier and drill pocket holes as shown. Make

sure that your Kreg Jig and drill bit are set up for 1/2" stock. 62. Cut plywood Drawer Bottoms to size. 63. Assemble the drawer boxes by attaching the Drawer Ends to one Drawer Side using 1" Kreg Screws. Then, slip the Drawer Bottom

in place, and attach the other Drawer Side. 64. Cut Drawer Fronts to size, and then attach them to the drawer boxes using 1" Kreg Screws so the fronts are centered on the

boxes.

Step 10: Attach the Console Panels, Dividers and Shelves Now the Console can be enclosed with panels, dividers, and shelves. 65. Cut a Console Back Panel to size. 66. Insert the Back Panel as shown, making sure it is pushed flush against the Top. Attach the panel to the Stiles and Rails of the Back

Frame using 5/8" brads. 67. Now is the best time to drill any holes that you need in the Back Panel to allow for cords to extend through the assembly and to

allow for any heat build up from electronic devices to escape. If you need to add more later, you can. 68. Cut Console End Panels to size. 69. Insert the End Panels as shown, making sure they are pushed flush against the Top. Attach the panel to the Stiles and Rails of the

End Frames using 5/8" brads. 70. Cut 2 Top Dividers to size and drill pocket holes as shown. You’ll install both back to back to make the divider the same width as

the Mid Stile in the Front Frame.

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71. Mark a center line on the Back Panel, and then insert the Top Dividers and attach them using 11/4" Kreg Screws. 72. Cut a Console Shelf and a Console Bottom to size and drill pocket holes as shown. 73. Insert the Shelf into the assembly making sure it is flush against the Top Divider. Attach the shelf using 11/4" Kreg Screws. 74. Cut a Bottom Divider to size and drill pocket holes as shown. 75. Insert the Bottom Divider into the assembly, making sure it is flush against the Shelf. Attach the Bottom Divider using 11/4" Kreg

Screws. 76. Use your Kreg Shelf Pin Jig to drill shelf-pin holes in the Bottom Divider and in the End panels. Once again, because the shelf-pin

holes will be deeper than the thickness of the plywood end panels, be sure that you locate the pin holes so that you drill into the end frame stiles.

77. Insert the Console Bottom into the assembly making sure it is flush against the Bottom Divider, and the attach the Bottom using 11/4" Kreg Screws.

78. Cut an Adjustable Shelf to size and drill shelf-pin holes as shown. 79. Cut Shelf Edging and attach it to each Shelf using 11/4" Kreg Screws. 80. Insert shelf pins and the Adjustable Shelves to check their fit.

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Step 11: Build and attach the Console Doors Now you can add doors to the console. They’re made in the same way as the doors in the towers. 81. Cut 4 Console Door Rails (two for each tower) and drill pocket holes as shown. 82. Cut 4 Console Door Stiles (two for each tower) as shown. These do not get pocket holes. 83. Attach the Door Rails to the Stiles using 11/4" Kreg Screws. 84. Using a router fitted with a 3/8" rabbet bit, cut a 3/8"-wide by 1/4"-deep rabbet on the inside of the door frame assembly as shown.

Use a chisel to square up the corners. 85. Cut a Console Door Mid Stile for each door from 1/2"-thick stock. 86. Drill pocket holes in the Mid Stiles as shown, first making sure that you set your Kreg Jig and drill bit for 1/2"-thick stock. 87. Have the glass cut (or do it yourself) , and set the glass set in place in the door. 88. Cut Long Cabinet Door Strips and Short Cabinet Door Strips to size. 89. Attach the Strips using glue and 5/8" 90. Attach the Doors to the towers using 11

/2" -inch door hinges as shown. Make sure you attach the doors on the two cabinets so they open in opposite directions from one another.

91. Attach a magnetic catch to the inside of each tower and on the doors, and then attach door handles or pulls.

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Step 12: Finishing Touches If you used glue, Scrape off any glue and sand as needed. Then give the parts a final sanding. Whenever possible, always sand with the grain (along the length of the boards) rather than across the grain. This helps prevent unwanted scratches, which is especially important if you plan to stain or use a clear finish. If painting, apply two coats of primer (sanding between coats) and paint as desired. If staining, apply desired stain and clear finish, making sure to sand or rub with steel wool between coats. Overall Finished Dimensions:

Height: 70 3/4 inches Width: 101 inches Depth: 22 inches

Cabinet Height: 70 3/4 Width: 26 1/2

Depth: 21

Console Height: 29 3/4 Width: 49 1/2

Depth: 22 Parts List Cabinets Part Quantity Size End Rails 12 3/4 x 2 1/2 x 13 Mid Stiles 4 3/4 x 1 1/2 x 43 1/2 Stiles 16 3/4 x 2 1/2 x 70 Front/Back Rails 14 3/4 x 2 1/2 x 20 Bottom 2 3/4 x 18 x 23 1/2 Back 2 1/4 x 23 1/4 x 65 1/2 Sides 4 1/4 x 17 1/2 x 65 1/2 Top 2 3/4 x 19 1/2 x 25 Long Top Moulding 2 3/4 x 1 1/2 x 26 1/2* Short Top Moulding 4 3/4 x 1 1/2 x 21* Fixed Shelves 4 3/4 x 17 5/8 x 23 Drawer Slide Mount Rails 4 3/4 x 7 1/4 x 17 5/8 Top Mobile Shelves 4 3/4 x 16 3/4 x 22 3/4 Bottom Mobile Shelves 2 3.4 x 16 1/2 x 22 3/4 Shelf Trim 6 3/4 x 1 1/2 x 22 3/4 Cabinet Drawer Ends 4 1/2 x 4 x 18 Cabinet Drawer Sides 4 1/2 x 4 x 16 1/2 Cabinet Drawer Front 2 3/4 x 5 1/4 x 19 3/4 Cabinet Drawer Bottom 2 1/4 x 18 3/8 x 15 7/8 Cabinet Door Rails 4 3/4 x 1 1/2 x 16 3/4 Cabinet Door Stiles 2 3/4 x 1 1/2 x 23 3/4 Cabinet Door Mid Stiles 2 1/2 x 1 1/2 x 20 3/4 Cabinet Door Long Strips 4 1/4 x 1 1/2 x 23 3/4 Cabinet Door Short Strips 4 1/4 x 1 1/2 x 16 3/4 Cabinet Door Glass 2 1/4 x 17 3/8 x 21 3/8

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Console Part Quantity Size Console End Mid Rails 2 3/4 x 2 1/2 x 13 Console End Mid Stiles 2 3/4 x 1 1/2 x 14 Console End Aprons 2 3/4 x 2 1/2 x 18 Console End Rails 2 3/4 x 2 1/2 x 18 Console Stiles 8 3/4 x 2 1/2 x 22 Console Front/Back Mid Rails 4 3/4 x 2 1/2 x 17 3/4 Console Front/Back Mid Stiles 2 3/4 x 1 1/2 x 22 Console Front/Back Aprons 2 3/4 x 2 1/2 x 42 Console Front/Back Rails 2 3/4 x 2 1/2 x 42 Legs 4 1 1/2 x 1 1/2 x 29 Top Slats 4 3/4 x 5 1/2 x 49 1/2 Console Back Panel 1 1/4 x 41 7/8 x 27 Console End Panels 2 1/4 x 17 7/8 x 27 Top Dividers 4 3/4 x 18 3/16 x 8 1/2 Console Drawer Ends 4 1/2 x 4 x 15 3/4 Console Drawer Sides 4 1/2 x 4 x 17 1/2 Console Drawer Bottom 2 1/4 x 16 1/8 x 16 7/8 Console Drawer Front 2 3/4 x 5 1/4 x 17 1/2 Shelf 1 3/4 x 18 3/16 x 41 15/16 Bottom Divider 1 3/4 x 18 3/16 x 15 3/4 Console Bottom 1 3/4 x 18 3/16 x 41 15/16 Adjustable Shelves 2 3/4 x 16 7/8 x 20 3/8 Ajustable Shelf Edging 2 3/4 x 1 1/2 x 20 3/8 Console Door Rails 4 3/4 x 1 1/2 x 14 1/2 Console Door Stiles 4 3/4 x 1 1/2 x 13 3/4 Console Door Mid Stiles 2 1/2 x 1 1/2 x 10 3/4 Console Door Long Strips 4 1/4 x 1 1/2 x 14 1/2 Console Door Short Strips 4 1/4 x 1 1/2 x 13 3/4 Console Door Glass 2 1/4 x 15 1/8 x 11 3/8 Cutting Diagram:

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· face clamp can be helpful for holding the boards flush as you drive in screws. create four...

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