floratech product functions: floratech emollients enhance ...during manufacture, dispersing fluids...

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Floratech Product Functions:

Floratech Emollients Enhance Pigment

Dispersion and Stability


Lipsticks, pressed powders, foundations, and sunscreen products rely on the efficient dispersion

and binding of dry pigments and sunscreen actives to provide their primary functions and benefits.

During manufacture, dispersing fluids and pigments are subject to high temperatures and sheer forces in

order to produce evenly distributed, high quality results.


• Tolerance to the high sheer, binding, molding, and high temperatureenvironment present during pigment dispersion.

• Elegant aesthetic and mechanical properties for personal careproducts with high pigment content.

• Excellent naturally-derived substitutions for traditionally usedsynthetic emollients.

• Preferred by female consumers.

Floratech Emollients Offer:


Floratech emollients have inherently high oxidative

stability compared to other naturally-derived emollients.

MKT15 – OSI Index

Floramac 10

Floraesters 15

Floraesters 70

Floraesters60

Floralipids Moringa Butter

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Coconut Oil

Castor Oil

Traditional Macadamia Oil

Florasun 90

Babassu Oil

Jojoba Oil

Olive Butter

Mid-Oleic Sunflower Oil

High-Oleic Safflower Oil

Shea Butter

Avocado Oil

Palm Kernel Oil

Floramac Macadamia Oil Refined

Mineral Oil

Floraesters 20

Floraesters IPJ

Cocoa Butter

0 20 40 60 80 100 120 140 160 180 200 220 700OSI (hours)

Floraesters 30

Floralipids Moringa Oil Refined

Meadowfoam Oil

Apricot Kernel Oil

Generally stable for use in cosmetics

Generally unstable for use in cosmetics

http://www.1ft.ch/23216



Floratech emollients possess a wide range of mechanical properties defined by slip and spread in cosmetics.

MKT12 – The Importance of Slip and Spread

1. Castor Oil2. Rice Bran Oil3. Almond Oil4. Olive Oil5. Soybean Oil6. Oleyl Erucate7. Decyl Oleate8. Octyl Stearate9. Jojoba Oil10. Dimethicone 200cs11. Mineral Oil (Viscosity 70)12. Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride13. Octyl Dodecanol14. Isopropyl Myristate15. Ethyl Oleate16. Squalane17. Isopropyl Palmitate18. Oleyl Alcohol19. Propylene Glycol

9

17

19

18

10 11

1312

14 15

16

4

7

8

5 & 63

2

1

LOW SPREADHIGH SLIP

HIGH SPREADLOW SLIP

LOW SPREADLOW SLIP

HIGH SPREADHIGH SLIP

Incr

easi

ng S

lip

Increasing Spread

Floramac Macadamia OilFloraesters IPJ

Floraesters 15

Floramac 10Florasun 90

Floralipids Moringa Oil




Floratech Emollients Profile:

• low medium high

Sensory Attribute Floramac 10 Floraesters IPJ Floraesters 15Floramac

Macadamia Oil Florasun 90

Pigment Wetting • • •Pigment

Dispersion Stability • • •Oxidative Stability

Slip • •Spread • •

Refined


Method: A blend of pigments was added to a vial followed bythe emollient for a total of 15 grams (40% pigment blend +60% emollient). Vials were allowed to rest for 2 hoursundisturbed and images were captured.

Results: All of the Floratech emollients visibly wet thepigment within 2 hours of contact.

Pigment Wetting



Increased Pigment Wetting

Conclusion

All of the Floratech emollients visibly wet the pigment within 2 hours of contact.


Method: A blend of pigments was added to a beaker followed by theemollient (40% pigment blend + 60% emollient) and left undisturbed for24 hours. The product was then hand mixed until visually uniform beforebeing rolled 4 times through a 3-roll mill. One milliliter of each mixturewas pipetted onto parchment paper and covered with clear plastic wrap.The samples were then measured in triplicate with a Colorimeter CL400to determine the percent color saturation.

Results: Floramac 10 and Floraesters 15 resulted in higher colorsaturation, which is indicative of better pigment wetting.

Color Saturation (Pigment Wetting)



Improved Pigment WettingConclusion

Floramac 10 and Floraesters 15 resulted in higher color saturation, which is indicative of better pigment wetting.

60%

65%

70%

75%

80%

85%

90%

Perce

nt Co

lor S

atura

tion

Flora

mac 1

0

Flora

sun 9

0

Flora

mac M

acad

amia

Oil R

efine

d

Flora

ester

s 15

Flora

ester

s IPJ

Casto

r Oil

Capr

ylic/C

apric

Trigl

ycer

ide

C12-

15Al

kyl B

enzo

ate

Penta

eryth

ritylT

etrais

ostea

rate

Octyl

dode

cano

l


Method: A blend of pigments was added to a beaker followed by theemollient (40% pigment blend + 60% emollient) and left undisturbed for 24hours. The product was then hand mixed until visually uniform before beingrolled 4 times through a 3-roll mill. Viscosity measurements were taken ofeach mixture: immediately after post-mill and 7 days post-mill. A change inviscosity over time is indicative of pigment agglomeration (the pigment is nolonger evenly distributed within the mixture).

Results: Floraesters IPJ and Floramac Macadamia Oil Refined resultedin smaller viscosity changes over time, which is indicative of lesspigment agglomeration.

Dispersion Stability



Improved Pigment Dispersion Stability

Conclusion

Floraesters IPJ and Floramac Macadamia Oil Refined resulted in smaller viscosity changes over time, which is indicative of less pigment agglomeration.

0%

5%

10%

15%

20%

25%Flo

rama

c 10

Flora

sun 9

0

Flora

mac M

acad

amia

Oil R

efine

d

Flora

ester

s 15

Flora

ester

s IPJ

Casto

r Oil

Capr

ylic/C

apric

Trigl

ycer

ide

C12-

15Al

kyl B

enzo

ate

Penta

eryth

ritylT

etrais

ostea

rate

Octyl

dode

cano

lRelat

ive P

erce

nt Ch

ange

inVi

scos

ity(7

days

)


Objective: To evaluate Floratech emollients for their potential toimprove color stability when used in a pressed powder.

Method: Pans of pressed powders were placed in an oven at 50°C andevaluated for color using a Colorimeter CL400 after 12 weeks.

Results: Floratech emollients provide better color stability thanother emollients.

Color Stability



Floramac 10 and Florasun 90 Improve Color Stability

Conclusion

Floramac 10 provided better color stability than dimethicone. Florasun 90 provided better color stability than traditional sunflower oil.

0

1

2

3

4

5

6

7

8

ΔE

6% F

lora

sun

90

6% F

lora

mac

Mac

adam

ia Oi

l Ref

ined

6% F

lora

mac

10

6% F

lora

lipid

s Mor

inga

Oil R

efin

ed

6% F

lora

este

rs 15

6%Tr

aditi

onal

Sunf

lowe

r Oil

6% D

imet

hico

ne

6% C

asto

r Oil

6% O

live O

il

6% E

thylh

exyl

Palm

itate

incr

easin

g co

lor c

hang

e


Objective: To evaluate Floratech emollients for their potential toimprove color stability when used in a pressed powder.

Method: The pressed powders were placed in an oven at 50°C andevaluated at 12 weeks (Colorimeter CL400).

Results: Blends of Floratech emollients provide better color stabilitythan blends of synthetic emollients.

Color Stability



Floramac 10 and Florasun 90 Improve Color Stability

Conclusion

A combination of Florasun 90 and Floraesters 15 resulted in smaller color changes after 12 weeks at 50 °C.

D - 3% Dimethicone / 3% Ethylhexyl Palmitate

C - 3% Florasun 90 / 3% Floraesters 15

B - 5% Dimethicone / 1% Ethylhexyl Palmitate

A - 5% Florasun 90 / 1% Floraesters 15

0

2

4

6

8

10

ΔEA

B

C

D

incr

easin

g co

lor c

hang

e


Objective: To evaluate Floratech emollients for their potential toimprove pigment binding (through breakage) when used in a pressedpowder.

Method: The pressed powder pans were weighed, dropped from 30centimeters above a flat surface, and reweighed to determine theamount of lost pressed powder.

Results: Blends of Floratech emollients provide better pigmentbinding than blends of synthetic emollients.

Pigment Binding



Floraesters 15 and Florasun 90 Improve Pigment Binding

D - 3% Dimethicone / 3% Ethylhexyl Palmitate

C - 3% Florasun 90 / 3% Floraesters 15

B - 5% Dimethicone / 1% Ethylhexyl Palmitate

A - 5% Florasun 90 / 1% Floraesters 15

Conclusion

The Floratech emollients resultedin minimal product loss which isindicative of their ability to bindpigments within pressed powders.

0.0%

0.1%

0.2%

0.3%

0.4%

0.5%

% P

rodu

ct L

oss

A

B

C

D

decr

ease

ing

bind

ing

abilit

y


Objective: To evaluate Floramac 10 for its potential to enhanceconsumer perception when used in a pressed powder.

Method: Female consumers evaluated pressed powders with a varietyof Floratech emollients after one application on a scale of 1 – 5(1 = negative, 3 = moderate, and 5 = positive efficiency).

Results: Female consumers prefer Floratech emollients in pressedpowders.

Consumer Preference



Floramac 10 Improved Consumer Preference

C - 3% Floraesters IPJB - 3% Floraesters 15A - 3% Floramac 10

Conclusion

Floramac 10 was preferred in most categories and also demonstrated the best color stability. All Floratech emollients produced at least moderate product aesthetics and can be varied depending on the desired aesthetic.

1

2

3

4

5

Greasin

ess

Moistur

ized S

kin

Silky / S

mooth

Skin

Slippe

ry Skin

Sticky

/ Tac

ky Skin

Produc

t Smoo

thnes

s

Produc

t Spre

adab

ility

Produc

t Put

Down

Produc

t Pick

Up

Scor

e A

B

C

AB

C

AB

C AB C

A

BC

A

BC

A

BC

AB

C

AB

C


Objective: To evaluate particle dispersion of titanium dioxide in sunscreenformulas containing Floramac 10 versus other emollients, prepared with andwithout a dispersing agent (DA).

Method: Sunscreen formulas containing 7.5% dimethicone-treated titaniumdioxide pre-dispersed with 5% of each test emollient, with or without DA, wereplaced on and scraped across the Fineness of Grind Gage and particle quantitywas determined by counting the total number of undispersed particles.

Results: Floramac 10 provides better titanium dioxide dispersion.

Particle Dispersion



Floramac 10 Improves Particle DispersionPercentage of Large Undispersed Particles

Conclusion

The test article containing 5% Floramac 10 produced fewer large (>50.8 microns) undispersed particles than any other emollient both with and without dispersing agent.

-100%

0%

100%

200%

300%

400%

500%

600%

700%

800%

(vehicle)

Incre

asing

# of

Undis

perse

d Par

ticles

>50

.8 Mi

crons

(relat

ive to

the v

ehicl

e)

A

B

C

D

E

F

G

H

I

J

K

Improvement

G - Vehicle + CC + DA

F - Vehicle + CC

E - Vehicle + CPS + DA

D - Vehicle + CPS

C - Vehicle + CCT + DA

B - Vehicle + CCT

K - Vehicle + FTN + DA

J - Vehicle + FTN

I - Vehicle + IPM + DA

H - Vehicle + IPM

A - Vehicle + Floramac 10


Floramac 10 Improves Particle DispersionTest Emollient Undispersed Particle Count

Vehicle 233

A – Vehicle + Floramac 10 46

B – Vehicle + CCT 954

C – Vehicle + CCT + DA 1393

D – Vehicle + CPS 1252

E – Vehicle + CPS + DA 1271

F – Vehicle + CC 1581

G – Vehicle + CC + DA 1805

H – Vehicle + IPM 1350

I – Vehicle + IPM + DA 298

J – Vehicle + FTN 2266

K – Vehicle + FTN + DA 1933

Conclusion

The test article containing 5% Floramac 10 produced fewer total undispersed particles than any other emollient with and without a dispersing agent.


Objective: To evaluate Floramac 10 for its potential to boost SPF whenused in a mineral sunscreen that contained 15.0% zinc oxide and 4.8%titanium dioxide.

Method: Sunscreens with 5% and 12% Floramac 10 were evaluated forSPF according to US FDA Final Rule; 21 CRF Parts 201 and 310.

Results: Floramac 10 boosts SPF of inorganic sunscreens.

Sun Protection Factor (SPF)



Floramac 10 Boosts SPF

Conclusion

The sunscreen containing 12% Floramac 10 boosted SPF by 13% more than the sunscreen with 5% Floramac 10, as a result of better titanium dioxide particle dispersion.

0 10 20 30 40 50

B

A

Mean SPF (n=3)

40.00

45.00

13%

B - vehicle + 12% Floramac 10

A - vehicle + 5% Floramac 10


Objective: To evaluate Floramac 10 for its potential to enhanceconsumer preference when used in a sunscreen.

Method: Female consumers evaluated sunscreens, with 12% Floramac10 versus 12% caprylic/capric triglyceride oil using a consumerpreference survey

Results: Female consumers prefer Floramac 10 in a sunscreen.

Consumer Preference



Floramac 10 Improves Consumer Preference

Statistical (**) and directional (*) significance was apparent where indicated (p<0.05 and p<0.10, respectively).

Conclusion

More than 80% of female consumerspreferred the sunscreen containingFloramac 10 overall, and for silky, leastgreasy skin, compared to the sunscreenwith caprylic/capric triglyceride oil. Thepreferred skin feel is likely due to bettertitanium dioxide particle dispersion,which results in a smoother product.

20%

40%

60%

80%

100%

Least Greasy Product**

Lightest Product**

Least Oily Skin**

Least Sticky Skin*

Silky Skin**

Overall Product Performance**

B - 12% caprylic/capric triglycerideA - 12% Floramac 10


• A sunscreen containing 5% Floramac 10 resulted in fewer undispersed titanium dioxide particles and a moreuniform dispersion (CS15-073).

• A sunscreen containing 12% Floramac 10 boosted SPF by 13% more than the sunscreen containing 5%Floramac 10 (CS19-125).

• More than 80% of female consumers preferred a sunscreen containing 12% Floramac 10 overall, and for silky,less greasy skin (CS20-138).

• A pressed powder containing 6% Floramac 10 provided better color stability than dimethicone and a pressedpowder containing 6% Florasun 90 provided better color stability than traditional sunflower oil (CS20-136);female consumers preferred the pressed powder containing 3% Floramac 10 in multiple categories (CS20-137).

• Formulator Report: Benefits of Floramac 10 in Sunscreens (FR-010)• Formulator Report: Floramac 10 Enhances Skin Care Products (FR-012)• Technical Report: Pigment Wetting and Dispersion Stability (TR-030)• Technical Report: Formulating Stable Pressed Powders (TR-031)

Claim Sheets, Formulator, and Technical Reports for Pigment Dispersion and Stability


























• Bold Payout Pressed Powder (M038)• Pressed Powder with Sheer Finish (M037)• Cream to Powder Foundation (M025)• Full Coverage Lipstick (M032)• Moisturizing Full Coverage Lipstick (M034)• Zinc Oxide & Titanium Dioxide Pre-Sun Lotion with

Emulsun (S013)• Zinc Oxide Pre-Sun Lotion with Emulsun (S020)• Pre-Sun Lotion with Floramac 10 (S021)

Formula Information for Pigment Dispersion and Stability

Emulsun, Floraesters, Floralipids, Floramac, and Florasun are registered Trademarks of Floratech.

http://www.1ft.ch/12S021


http://www.1ft.ch/12M032
















Binding Dispersion Stability

For more information contact [email protected]

floratech product functions: floratech emollients enhance ...during manufacture, dispersing fluids...

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