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Rev.1

Free MeasurementsGo big but keep it safe

Rev.1 is the ramp I will share some of the critical information

on for free. This is not a beginner ramp but a Professional

FMX Ramp jumped by several top level Professional FMX

Riders. This is the first ramp I built and, with help from my

sons, John and Robert Distler, we hit it good on our first

attempt. IF this looks familiar, it should. This picture has been

distributed all across the world and it excites me that most

ramps being built, in the USA and abroad, are being based off

of this picture. I have been getting so many emails from

people all over the world thanking me for helping with their

dream of building their own ramp that I knew I must get this

ramp information back up ASAP. I posted this ramp first on

FMX1.homepage.com back in 1999, then on

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HessianAggression.com until the end of 2001.

It is not easy to build a ramp. There are several things that

will affect how your bike will launch from a ramp and it

sickens me to see scrappy ramps used in FMX contests. So, if

you are going to build a ramp yourself and are short on cash,

work off of this page. This is a good ramp for a 50 to 65 foot

gap. I think it was the best in the world, at it's inception, for

this distance. I don't hit these things so I rely on top pro's

opinions to base this off of. Not just theHessian Aggression

Riders, but several others too. Carey Hart pleaded with me

to sell Rev.1 in Las Vegas when it was there for the US Open

and not bring it back home but this was the only ramp we

had at the time. Otherwise, it would now reside in Vegas.

Yes, this ramp is that good.

This is the exact ramp used in the 2000 US Open of

Supercross and jumped by Carey Hart, Manu Troux, Mike

Jones, Robert Distler and Jeff Doetzer. The first rider to hit

this ramp was Jeff Tilton in the spring of 2000. He was

shocked at how good it worked and even stated it was thebest ramp he had ever hit. Ramp technology has advanced

very quickly in the past couple years and this ramp has been

outdone by Rev.2 and Rev.3. Don't get me wrong, this ramp

is still great and has been rented, by request, by riders and

promoters several times in 2000 and 2001.

http://www.hessianaggression.com/home.htmlhttp://www.hessianaggression.com/home.htmlhttp://www.hessianaggression.com/home.htmlhttp://www.hessianaggression.com/home.htmlhttp://www.hessianaggression.com/home.htmlhttp://www.hessianaggression.com/home.html

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Any experienced welder or welding shop will be able to use

the information here to build your first ramp. The

measurements under the ramp at the top of this page are

from the bottom of the Bottom Rail to the top of the Side

Rail. Not that it matters, but this is including the top surface,

either wood or expanded metal. Draw those measurements

out on some cardboard and use it as your guide for your final

ramp angle.

Click here for tools advised to have access to before starting

Click here for minimal materials needed for Rev.1

The AngleThis is where most ramps stop - The angle. This is created for

you, the one time ramp builder so you can mold the angle 6

inches at a time. In my early days of building ramps, this is

exactly what I used to create my Rev.1, Rev.2 or Rev.3 angles.

I came up with this so you don't have to find a shop that can

bend the metal to my exact angle. Having metal bent for 2

side rails would easily add another 200 bucks to your final

ramp costs.

NOTE: This is not on a constant radius, it is an Elliptical

Radius. Yes, it takes longer but it is worth it. Be sure to match

http://www.fmxramps.com/rev1_tools.htmlhttp://www.fmxramps.com/rev_1_materials.htmlhttp://www.fmxramps.com/rev_1_materials.htmlhttp://www.fmxramps.com/rev_1_materials.htmlhttp://www.fmxramps.com/rev1_tools.htmlhttp://www.fmxramps.com/rev1_tools.html

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this up to your cardboard drawing. The goal is to have the

final angle within 1" of the specs from top to bottom.

I advise you to use .120 wall tubing. [1/8"] If you are using a

stick welder, you MUST use .120 wall square tubing or you

will probably have holes burned through at every weld. If

using a Mig welder with gas you could use .065 wall square

tubing. If you don't know the difference between the the

welders I just mentioned, don't go any further. You are

already over your head.

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The above weld was done with a MIG welder. When done

correctly a weld is stronger than the metal. This exact weld

held up to a 10,000 pound monster truck that went out of

control and hit my first Rev.2 ramp. I was able to use

hydraulics to straighten the ramp and the lower supports and

it is back in operation today. The welds held but some of the

metal tore within 1/4" of the welds. That is how it is

susposed to work. Be sure to test your welds when starting

to be sure your speed and temperature are correct.

Bad Boy. Never use a gap like this in your joints. While this

can be welded properly, it is only advisable for the very

experienced welder. This is hard to fill if using the thinner

.065 thick metal that my customers and I use on Rev.2 and

Rev.3.

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See, I told you so. Learn from me and live easy. A little extra

time spent in preparation will save a lot of time welding andgrinding

Weld the crossmembers {they are spaced every 12"} on all

sides. (the bottom and Leading End sides have not been

welded on this yet) Use as little heat as needed. Notice the

clean weld on the side of the spar and how I did not weld the

top of the spar but the gap is closed. I suggest you weld these

fully and then grind them almost flush so the sheet metal or

wood will lay flat when done.The more you weld on the

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crossmembers the more the metal will expand and the more

the angle will change. You will then need to go back and

tweek the angle again.

You can use wood for the top surface but I suggest you use

16 gauge sheet metal and then cover this with 3/4" #9 Raised

Edge expanded metal. Do not use the flat kind. If you use

wood, you MUST put a layer of sheet metal down first. You

can use only a 15 - 3/4" wide piece and weld it in place from

the top to the bottom and centered. While you can use 1/2"

plywood, I advise you to use at least 3/4" plywood,

preferably marine plywood, and bolt it to the framework.

Then, use outdoor wood primer with sillica mixed in and roll

and brush this on the top surface as needed. I have also used

a sprayer and sprayed the top, then thrown sillica on the wet

paint. Then, I sprayed another coat of paint over this. This

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will work OK but I prefer to use sillica in the paint. {Sillica can

be bought at hardware stores and is used most often for

sand blaster equipment}

Rev.2

Free MeasurementsGo big but keep it safe

This ramp is liked by all the local Pro FMX riders and worksgreat at a 55 to 70 foot gap.

Rev.2 came about because of wieght. It took 15 strong men to move our Rev.1Ramp onto the floor of the MGM Grand for the US Open of Supercross back in

2000. The second night, the owner just stood back and shook his head and decidedthere MUST be a better way. Surely there is a way to move and set up a ramp in 5

minutes or less; the time allowed for them to set up for live Pay for View on TV.Upon return from Las Vegas, he pulled out his second ramp angle design that he hadbeen working on, based on feedback from riders, and designed a totally new idea notyet seen in the FMX arena's. This ramp folds up and has a folded up footprint of

only 49.5" wide and 9' 4" long. It weighs in at about 1/2 the weight of our Rev.1

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ramp, has removable wheels and is easily moved with a specially designed hand dolly.{shown above}

Pre Built rampsFMX Ramps can build a Rev.2 or Rev.3 ramp for you. These are high quality 100%ramps built specifically for FMX, not freeriding. All half fold ramps come as shown

above and sell for

$2,500.00.We can also build to your special configuration if needed for an additional fee. Callor email us, custom configurations are sometimes the same price as our standard

folding ramps.

Don't be fooled by other companies lower prices. Ask if theirs are built out of 100%metal. We built one full sized ramp with a plywood top and learned our lesson. Fromthat day on, we have been 100% metal. Sure, our ramps cost more than most, hell,maybe everyone else's ramps, but if you have done your homework you already know

they are worth it. Our Elliptical Radius is the only specs used by the