fundamentals of cosmetics
TRANSCRIPT
Cosmetics
These are substances used to enhance the appearance or odour of the human body. Cosmetics include skin-care creams, lotions, Powders, Perfumes, Lipsticks, fingernail and toe nail polish, eye and facial makeup, coloredcontact lenses, hair colours, hair sprays and gels, deodorants, hand sanitizer, baby products, bath oils, bubble baths, bath salts, butters and many other types of products.
A subset of cosmetics is called "make-up," which refers primarily to coloredproducts intended to alter the user’s appearance. Many manufacturers distinguish between decorative cosmetics and care cosmetics. The word cosmetics derives from the Greek word κοσμητική τέχνη (kosmetikē tekhnē), meaning "art of dress and ornament", from κοσμητικός (kosmētikos), "skilled in ordering or arranging" and that from κόσμος (kosmos), meaning amongst others "order" and "ornament".
The manufacture of cosmetics is currently dominated by a small number of multinational corporations that originated in the early 20th century, but the distribution and sale of cosmetics is spread among a wide range of different businesses.
The U.S. Food And Drug Administration (FDA) which regulates cosmetics in the United States defines cosmetics as:
"intended to be applied to the human body for cleansing, beautifying, promoting attractiveness, or altering the appearance without affecting the body's structure or functions.“
The FDA specifically excludes soap from this category.
Cosmeceuticals represent the marriage of cosmetics and pharmaceuticals. Examples of products typically labeled as cosmeceuticalsinclude anti-aging creams and moisturizers. Cosmeceuticals are cosmetic products with biologically active ingredients purporting to have medical or drug-like benefits.
An important distinction lies in the delivery method. The "cosmeceutical" label applies only to products applied topically, such as creams, lotions, and ointments. Products which are similar in perceived benefits but ingested orally are known as nutricosmetics.
The first archaeological evidence of cosmetics usage was found in Egypt around 3500 BC during the Ancient Egypt times, the Ancient Greeks and Romans also used cosmetics. The Romans and Ancient Egyptians used cosmetics containing poisonous mercury and often lead.
The ancient kingdom of Israel was influenced by cosmetics Jezebel painted eyelids—approximately 840 BC.
In the 19th century, Queen Victoria publicly declared makeup improper, vulgar, and acceptable only for use by actors.
Make-up was in general especially during the 1870s when social etiquette became more rigid.
Cosmetics have been in use for thousands of years. The absence of regulation of the manufacture and use of cosmetics has led to negative side effects, deformities, blindness, and even death through the ages. Examples of this were the prevalent use of ceruse(whitelead).
The worldwide annual expenditures for cosmetics today is estimated at $19 billion. Of the major firms, the largest is L'Oréal, which was founded by Eugene Schueller in 1909 as the French Harmless Hair Colouring Company (now owned by Liliane Bettencourt 26% and Nestlé 28%; the remaining 46% is traded publicly).
Like most industries, cosmetic companies resist regulation by government agencies like the FDA, and have lobbied against this throughout the years. The FDA does not have to approve or reviewthe cosmetics, or what goes in them before they are sold to the consumers.
The FDA only regulates against the colors that can be used in the cosmetics and hair dyes. The cosmetic companies do not have to report any injuries from the products; they also only have voluntary recalls on products.
COSMETIC SAFETY VEDIO
Numerous published reports have raised concern over the safety of a few surfactants. SLS causes a number of skin issues.
Parabens can cause skin irritation and contact dermatitis in individuals with paraben allergies, a small percentage of the general population.
Prolonged use of makeup has also been linked to thinning eyelashes.
Fragrances are made of many ingredients which cause allergic reactions.
Hair Care: Shampoo & Hair Colour
Lipstick, lip liner, lip plumper, lip balm, lip conditioner and lip boosters.
Foundation used to smooth out the face and cover spots or uneven skin coloration. Usually a liquid, cream, or powder.
Powder, used to set the foundation, giving a matte finish, and also to conceal small flaws or blemishes.
Mascara is used to darken, lengthen, and thicken the eyelashes
Eyelid glue, eye liner, eye shadow, eye shimmer, and glitter eyepencils as well as different color pencils used to color and emphasize the eyelids (larger eyes give a more youthful appearance).
Nail polish, used to color the fingernails and toenails.
Concealer, Makeup used to cover any imperfections of the skin.
Lip stain is a cosmetic product that contains either water or a gel base.
Make-up remover is the product used to remove the make-up products applied on the skin. It is used for cleaning the skin for other procedures, like applying any type of lotion at evening before the person go to sleep.
Eye shadow being applied
applies make-up before the opening night of a play.
chutti for Kathakali, a performing art in Kerala, India is keup applied for any artform.
Broadway actor Jim Brochu
The chin mask known as considered the thickest ma
Also included in the general category of cosmetics are skin care products. These include creams and lotions to moisturize the face and body which are often formulated for different skin types per range, sunscreens to protect the skin from UV radiation and damage, skin lighteners, and treatment products to repair or hide skin imperfections (wrinkles, dark circles under eyes, etc.), tanning oils to brown the skin.
While there is assurance from the largest cosmetic companies that ingredients have passed quality tests and official regulations, and are therefore generally safe to use, there is a growing preference for cosmetics that are without any "synthetic" ingredients, especially those derived from petroleum.
Ingredients' listings in cosmetics are highly regulated in many countries.
EEC 76/768
Organic and natural ingredientsEven though many cosmetic products are regulated, there are still health concerns regarding the presence of harmful chemicals within these products.
With many new products released into the market every season, it is hard to keep track of the safety of every product. Some products carry carcinogenic contaminant.
Many cosmetic companies are coming out with "All natural" and organic products. All natural products contain mineral and plant ingredients and organic products are made with organic agricultural products.
The cosmetic industry is a profitable business for most manufacturers of cosmetic products. By cosmetic products, we understand anything that is intended for personal care such as skin lotions or sun lotions, makeup and other such products meant to emphasize one's look.
The cosmetic industry has not only grown only in the United States, but also in various parts of the world which have becomefamous for their cosmetic. Some of these include France, Germany, Italy and Japan. It has been estimated that in Germany, the cosmetic industry generated sales of EUR 12.6 billion at retail sales, in 2008 which made of German cosmetic industry the 3rd inthe world, after Japan and the United States. Also, it has been shown that in the same country, this industry has grown with nearly 5 percent in one year, from 2007 to 2008.
The European Commission and the U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA) are the two bodies making legislation in what concerns cosmetic industry and its various aspects within the European Union, respectively in the United States. In the European Union, the circulation of cosmetic products and their safety are law subjects since 1976. One of the newest amendments of the directive concerning cosmetic industry comes as a result of the attempt to ban animal testing.
A professional make-up artist servicing a client
A beauty adviser provides product advice based on the client's skin care and makeup requirements. Beauty advisers can become certified through the Anti-Aging Beauty Institute.
Supermodel Alek Wek receiving make-up from a professional.
Professionals in cosmetics marketing careers manage research focus groups, promote the desired brand image, and provide other marketing services (sales forecasting, allocation to different retailers, etc.).
Supermodel Alek Wek receiving make-up from a professional.
AcneAcne is an inflammatory skin disease that’s made evident by pimples that can appear on almost any part of the body, but are usually on the face. AcrylicSomething that’s acrylic has the property of being able to repel
water or moisture.AllergenAn allergen is something that produces an allergic reaction. AllantoinAllantoin, extracted from a plant, is used in creams and skin preparations to heal and soothe.BeeswaxBeeswax has been used in cosmetics for centuries, mostly for its emulsifying properties.
• Aloe VeraAloe Vera is a plant that has wonderful healing and softening properties. Many people have an Aloe Vera house plant, because you can break off a piece and use the extract from inside to soothe and heal cuts, burns and abrasions. It’s a very common ingredient in cosmetics because of it’s softening properties.
• AstringentAn astringent, as part of the facial cleansing system, is commonly known as toner, and it controls oily skin and lowers the pH of the face after cleansing. Basically, it draws tissues together.
• Almond oilAlmond oil is vegetable oil made with almonds. It’s used in cosmetic products that soften the skin.
•. Benzoyl PeroxideBenzoyl peroxide is a common ingredient found in acne treatments, used for its antibacterial properties.
• BergamotThe Bergamot tree is grown predominantly in southern Italy. The Italians make an oil from the rind of the bergamot tree’s citrus fruit, which is good as an antiseptic, a cleanser, and a deodorizer.
• BlackheadA blackhead is a type of pimple that forms when the pores of the skin get clogged with oils and impurities..
• BronzersBronzers are products that darken the skin to make it look naturally tanned.
• BufferA buffer is a pH-balanced cleanser that makes the skin shinier and softer.
• Butcher’s BroomButcher’s Broom is a plant extract that’s used to “sweep away” redness in the face.
• CeramidesCeramides is a substance that protects the skin against moisture loss. It’s also synthetically-reproduced in skin care products.
•Citric acidCitric acid has many uses. It’s used in skincare products as an astringent and an antioxidant.
• ClarifyingClarifying lotion is the toner part of a cleansing system that balances the pH of the skin after cleansing.
• EczemaEczema is an inflammatory condition that causes the skin to become red, scaly and itchy.
• ElastinElastin is used in cosmetics to protect the skin from getting dry.
• EmollientAn emollient is something that soothes and softens the skin.
• EmulsifierAn emulsifier is a substance added to a product to thicken it.
• EpilationEpilation is the process of removing hair from beneath the surface of the skin.
• EstheticianAn esthetician is a professional trained to give beauty treatments like facials, manicures, and pedicures.
• Evening primroseEvening primrose is a natural substance used as a toner or moisturizer.
• GlycerinGlycerin can be found in moisturizers; it holds water particles together.
• Glycolic peelA glycolic peel is a method used to exfoliate or remove dead layers of skin.
• HydrateWhen you hydrate skin, you add moisture to it.
• HydroquinoneHydroquinone is a white crystalline compound used in skincare products as a bleaching agent.
• HyperpigmentationHyperpigmentation is a skin condition caused by ultraviolet light from the sun, which darkens the skin.
• JojobaJojoba is a multi-purpose substance, used as a moisturizer, as well as to reduce wrinkles and stretch marks.
• Lactic acidLactic acid is a natural ingredient in the body that moisturizes the skin.
• LanolinLanolin is a fatty substance made from wool, that moisturizes and emulsifies, as well as absorbs water.
• Malic acidMalic acid comes from raw fruit, like apples, cherries and tomatoes, and is used as a glycolic agent.
• MallowMallow is a softening agent made from plants, that helps reduce inflammation, age lines, and eye swelling.
• MelaninMelanin is the dark pigment in hair and skin.
• PanthenolPanthenol, or vitamin B5, is used as a moisturizer.
• PetrolatumPetrolatum is another word for petroleum jelly. It’s used in creams as a lubricant, to soften and soothe the skin. It also seals in moisture.
• PhotoagingPhotoaging is damage to the skin caused by too much exposure to the sun.
• PhotosensitivityPhotosensitivity is a skin condition, manifested in rashes or swelling, that results from applying or eating certain chemicals or foods, then exposing the skin to sunlight.
• PhytocosmeticsPhytocosmetics are cosmetics that are made with natural ingredients from plants.
• SPFSPF is an acronym for sun protection factor. Sunscreen products have an SPF; the higher the SPF, the more protection you get from sunburn.
• SunscreenSunscreen is a product, usually a cream, that’s applied to the skin to protect it from getting sunburned. The amount of protection is governed by its SPF.
• SunblockSunblock, as opposed to sunscreen, is a lotion that actually blocks the ultraviolet rays of the sun. It’s more effective than sunscreen.
• SurfactantA surfactant is an ingredient that promotes an efficient mixture of oil and water.
• Tartaric acidTartaric acid comes from apples and is used to promote the texture and tone of the skin.
• Tea tree oilTea tree oil is a natural preservative that’s used in soap, shampoo and skin care products to clean and disinfect.
•• Vitamin AVitamin A is a fat-soluble vitamin. A deficiency in vitamin A can cause toughening and hardening of the skin.
• Vitamin CVitamin C is a water-soluble vitamin. It’s used in anti-aging creams because of it’s preservative and antioxidant properties.
• Vitamin DVitamin D is a fat-soluble vitamin. It promotes strong bones and teeth, but can be detrimental if collected in the skin as a result of too much exposure to the sun.
• Vitamin EVitamin E is a fat-soluble vitamin. Its antioxidant properties make it useful for promoting healthy skin and hair.
• Wheat germ oilWheat germ oil, an ingredient found in natural cosmetics, aids in renewing skin cells. It also has a large quantity of vitamin E in it.
• Zinc oxideZinc oxide is a chemical compound that was originally used as a whitening face powder around the beginning of the 20th century. It’s quite often found in sun protection products because of its ability to protect. It also soothes and heals the skin.
A composition that is applied to healthy, intact skin will partially absorb into the stratum corneum(SC) and its components will partition into the bricks-and-mortar structure of the SC depending on their chemical and physical properties. In addition, the vehicle or formulation can affect the SC either by lowering its resistance and thus accelerate penetration, or by providing additional strength and protection to retard penetration.
SKIN CHEMISTRY
Although not designated as such, many materials are included in cosmetic formulations as permeation enhancers and these hold the potential to affect skin barrier integrity. For example, ethanol, oleic acid and some surfactants are known to affect the thermodynamics of intercellular lipids in the SC, changing their organization from rigid gel crystalline to liquid.1 This process accelerates penetration of the enhancers and other components in the formula.
Two similar formulations containing the same percentage of active compound, but differing in vehicle, can exhibit different penetration profiles into and through the skin.
The End Thanks
MARKETING
SUPPLY CHAIN(PLANNING & WAREHOUSING)
MANUFACTURING
Production/Testing
SUPPLY CHAIN
DISTRIBUTION
CUSTOMER
SATISFACTION
PRODUCT & SERVICE
CUSTOMER
R & D
The Marketing Mix, also known as the 4 P's of Marketing, is the combination of product, price, place (distribution), and promotion.
Marketing is the activity, set of institutions, and processes for creating, communicating, delivering, and exchanging offerings that have value for customers, clients, partners, and society at large.
It generates the strategy that underlies sales techniques, business communication, and business developments. It is an integrated process through which companies build strong customer relationships and create value for their customers and for themselves.
Customer Focus
Product → Solution
Price → Value
Place → Access
Promotion → Information
Business Strategy vs Marketing Strategy
Positioning Strategy
Segmentation
Go to Market Strategy
Go to Market Options{Advertising & Promotions, Telemarketing, Internet}
Face to Face Alternatives{Independent Sales Agent, Reseller, Integrators, Alliance}
Orientation Profit driver Period Description
Relationship marketing / Relationship management[9]
Building and keeping good customer relations
1960s to present day
Emphasis is placed on the whole relationship between suppliers and customers. The aim is to provide the best possible customer service and build customer loyalty.
Business marketing / Industrial marketing
Building and keeping relationships between organizations
1980s to present day
In this context, marketing takes place between businesses or organizations. The product focus lies on industrial goods or capital goods rather than consumer products or end products. Different forms of marketing activities, such as promotion, advertising and communication to the customer are used.
Social marketing[9]
Benefit to society
1990s to present day
Similar characteristics as marketing orientation but with the added proviso that there will be a curtailment of any harmful activities to society, in either product, production, or selling methods.
Branding Brand value 2000s to present day
In this context, "branding" is the main company philosophy and marketing is considered an instrument of branding philosophy.
Research can be defined as the search for knowledge, or as any systematic investigation, with an open mind, to establish novel facts, usually using a scientific method.
The primary purpose for applied research (as opposed to basic research) is discovering, interpreting, and the development of methods and systems for the advancement of human knowledge on a wide variety of scientific matters of our world and the universe.
Scientific research relies on the application of the scientific method, a harnessing of curiosity. This research provides scientific information and theories for the explanation of the nature and the properties of the world around us. It makes practical applications possible. Scientific research is funded by public authorities, by charitable organizations and by private groups, including many companies. Scientific research can be subdivided into different classifications according to their academic and application disciplines.
Artistic research, also seen as 'practice-based research', can take form when creative works are considered both the research and the object of research itself. It is the debatable body of thought which offers an alternative to purely scientific methodsin research in its search for knowledge and truth.
Research & Development Stages
• Working on new Products & Development of Concurrent Products
• Development Planning
• Development Input
• Development Output
• Review, Verification & Validation
• Design Development Changes
Source of Formulation
• Current Product
• Competitor Product
• Supplier
• Magazine
• Internet
• Relationship
Lab vs Pilot
L’OREAL R & D FACTS3,313 employees of 60 different nationalities working in 30 different disciplines
€ 609 million dedicated to cosmetic and dermatological research in 2009
18 research centers across the world and 13 evaluation centers in the world
1/3 of the R&D budget devoted to Advanced Research
5 000 formulas developed each year
674 patents filed in 2009
100 active cooperation agreements with leading academic and research institutions
http://www.loreal.com/_en/_ww/index.aspx
The End
Thanks
Supply chain management (SCM) is the management of a network of interconnected businesses involved in the ultimate provision of product and service packages required by end customers.
Supply chain management spans all movement and storage of raw materials, work-in-process inventory, and finished goods from point of origin to point of consumption (supply chain).
59
Suppliers ManufacturersWarehouses &
Distribution Centers Customers
Material Costs
TransportationCosts
TransportationCosts
TransportationCostsInventory CostsManufacturing Costs
60
Suppliers Manufacturers Warehouses &Distribution Centers
Customers
Material CostsTransportation
CostsTransportation
Costs TransportationCostsInventory CostsManufacturing Costs
PlanPlan SourceSource MakeMake DeliverDeliver BuyBuy
61
Inventory and back-order levels fluctuate considerably across the supply chain even when customer demand doesn’t varyThe variability worsens as we travel “up” the supply chainForecasting doesn’t help!
Manufacturer Wholesale Distributors Consumers
Multi-tierSuppliers Retailers
Time
Sales
Sales
Time
Sales
Time
Sales
Time
Bullwhip Effect
Sourcing
COMPANYSUPPLIERSINTERMEDIATE
CUSTOMERS
Operations
FINAL
CONSUMERS
FINAL
CONSUMERS
Information/Demand Flows
Value Delivery (Order Fulfillment) ProcessValue Delivery (Order Fulfillment) Process
Value Creation (Product/Service Development) ProcessValue Creation (Product/Service Development) Process
Value Maintenance (After Sale Service & Support) ProcessValue Maintenance (After Sale Service & Support) Process
Logistics
64
AccurateForecasts
Panels of Experts
• Internal experts• External experts• Domain experts• Delphi technique
• Moving average• Exponential smoothing• Trend analysis• Seasonality analysis
Judgment Methods
Time-Series Methods
Causal Analysis
Market Research Analysis
• Relies on data other than that being predicted• Economic data, commodity data, etc.
• Market testing• Market surveys• Focus groups
6M Strategy
• Man• Machine• Materials• Method• Measurement• Maintenance
Role of Machine (Input vs Output)
http://tfjx.machine21.com/
http://www.tetrapak.com/business_solutions/automation_solutions/tetra_plantmaster/Pages/default.aspx
AUTOMATION - MANUFACTURING
AUTOMATION – SHAMPOO
AUTOMATION – HAIR COLOUR
Raw, Packing Materials, Bulk & FG Testing
Testing of water
Product Testing
• Appearance• Colour• Odor• pH @ 25 oC {2.85 to 8.5}• Viscosity @ 25oC {10,000 to 75,000
cps}• Specific Gravity {0.80 to 1.0}• Stability Test 48 Hour at 50 oC• Microbial Bioburden Test
No Pathogenic organism
Specification & Testing Methods
List of InstrumentsViscometer & pH Meter
TOC Analyzer Liquid Particle Counter
Hair Colour TestingTorque TestingTube Leakage
Supplier Qualification (Open vs Close) & COAs
Material Safety Data Sheet (MSDS)
Sampling Technique (ISO 2859)
Compliance of Lab., requirements(ISO/IEC 17025)
The End
Thanks