garment analyses final

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GARMENT ANALYSISFACULTY- Mr. Yoginder Kumar

DATE- 10/12/2010

SUBMITTED BY

SURBHI ARORA

D/BFT-AP/09/24

Roll no- 17

BFTECH SEM 3



2

KNITTED OVERLAP V- NECK LADIES TOP



3

G ARMENT PICTURE

FRONT

BACK



4

TECHNICAL PICTURE



5

COMPONENT PARTS

y Facing - 2 pc

y Back yoke - 1 pc

y Neckline f inish Bias strip - 1 pc

y Back panel - 1 pc

y Waist band - 2 pcs

y Upper f ront panel - 2 pcs

y Lower f ront panel - 1 pc

y Belt strip - 4 pcs

y Shoulder piece - 2 pcs

y Sleeves - 2 pcs

y Sleeve cuff - 2 pcs



6

OPERATION BREAKDOWN

S NO. OPERATION NO. OF OPERATIONS

1. Gathering on upper f ront panel- top and bottom 22 Gathering on lower f ront panel 1

3. Gathering on back panel 1

4. Gathering on sleeves- top and bottom 2

5. Shoulder piece attached to f ront 2

6. Facing f used, overlocked and attached to neck 2

7. Binding strip attached to back yoke 18. Back yoke attached to back panel 1

9. Waist band attached to upper f ront panels, panel sandwiched

between two layers of waistband

2

10. Waist band attached to lower f ront panel, panel sandwiched

between two layers of waistband

1

11. Belt making 2

12. Back attached to shoulder piece 2

13. Sleeve cuff s attached to sleeves 2

14. Sleeve attaching to armhole 2



7

15. Side seam closed while inserting the belt 216. Bottom hemming 1



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PROCESS FLOW

1 7

GATHERING

UPPER FRONT

PANEL TOP ANDBOTTOM- LEFT

6

11

BACK PANEL- TOP

BACK PANEL

ATTACHEDTO BACK

YOKE

5

BINDING STRIP

ATTACHED TO

BACK YOKE

ATTACHED TO

WAIST BAND

9

8

BELT MAKING

BACK

ATTACHED TO

SHOULDER

SLEEVES

ATTACHED

TO ARMHOLE

12

SIDE SEAM

CLOSED

WHILE

INSERTING

BELT

BOTTOM

HEMMING

13

UPPER FRONT

PANEL TOP AND

BOTTOM- RIGHT

LEFT SLEEVE- TOP AND

BOTTOM

RIGHT SLEEVE- TOP AND

BOTTOM

LOWER FRONT

PANEL

FUSED FACING ATTACHED

TO NECK

4

SLEEVES CUFFS

ATTACHED

10

SHOULDER

ATTACHED

TO FRONT

2

FACING FUSED

3



9

OPERATION 1, 2, 3 and 4

Gathering on upper and lower f ront panel, back panel and sleeves

Stitch type 301

Seam type No seam

SPI 8

Gathering diagram

Machine used Single needle lockstitch machine

Thread 60-80

Needle DB X 1 (#14)Deskilling devices Gathering f oot attachment

Alternate stitch Elastic thread- 301



10

OPERATION 5

Shoulder piece attached to f ront

Stitch type 514- mock saf ety stitch

Seam type Overedge seam

SPI 10

Seam diagram

Machine used 4 thread overlock machine

Thread 60-80

Needle DC X 27Deskilling devices None

Alternate stitch 512 + 301



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OPERATION 6

(A) Fusing f acing ( microdot fusing) and overlocking

Stitch type 514- mocksaf ety stitch

Seam type overedge seam

SPI 10

Seam diagram


Thread 60-80

Needle DC X 27

Deskilling devices None




12

(B) Facing attached to neckline

Stitch type 301 lockstitch

Seam type superimpose seam then topstitch

SPI 12

Seam diagram


Thread 60- 80

Needle DB X 1 ( # 14)


Alternate stitch None



13

OPERATION 7

Binding strip attached to back yoke neckline

Stitch type 406, 2 needle f latlock with bottom covering

Seam type Bias bound seam

SPI 11

Seam diagram

Machine used Bottom covering stitch, 2 needle thread lines, 1 spreader

Thread 60-80

Needle UY128GAS (#10)


Alternate stitch Flat bed, top and bottom covering 4 needle type



14

OPERATION 8

Back yoke attached to back panel



SPI 10

Seam diagram


Thread 60-80

Needle DC X 27

Deskilling devices none Alternate stitch 512 + 301



15

OPERATION 9

Waist band attached to upper f ront panels, panel sandwiched between two layers of

waistband

Stitch type 301- lockstitch

Seam type Superimpose seam

SPI 10

Seam diagram


Thread 60- 80


Deskilling devices none

Alternate stitch none



16

OPERATION 10

Waist band attached to lower f ront panel, panel sandwiched between two layers of

waistband


Seam type Overedge seam , moveline tape attached f or stiffness

SPI 10

Seam diagram


Thread 60-80

Needle DC X 27





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OPERATION 11

Belt making

Stitch type 301- lockstitch

Seam type Superimpose seam, then turn

SPI 10

Seam diagram


Thread 60- 80


Deskilling devices None Alternate stitch None



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OPERATION 12

Back attached to shoulder piece



SPI 10

Seam diagram


Thread 60-80





19

OPERATION 13

Sleeve cuffs attached to sleeves



SPI 10

Seam diagram


Thread 60-80





20

OPERATION 14

Sleeve attaching to armhole



SPI 10

Seam diagram


Thread 60-80

Needle DC X 27





21

OPERATION 15

Side seam closed while inserting the belt



SPI 10

Seam diagram


Thread 60-80





22

OPERATION 16

Bottom hemming

Stitch type 406, 2 needle f latlock with bottom covering

Seam type bias bound seam

SPI 11

Seam diagram

Machine used bottom covering stitch, 2 needle thread lines, 1 spreader

Thread 60-80

Needle UY128GAS (#10)


Alternate stitch Flat bed, top and bottom covering 4 needle type



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MENS FULL SLEEVE FORMAL SHIRT



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G ARMENT PICTURE

FRONT

BACK



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TECHNICAL PICTURE



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COMPONENT PARTSy Front upper yoke - 2 pcs

y Front panel - 2 pcs

y Pocket patch - 2 pcs

y Front placket - 1 pc

y Back yoke - 2 pc

y Back panel - 1 pc

y Sleeves - 2 pcs

y Sleevep

lacket

-2 p

cs

y Sleeves cuff s - 4 pcs

y Collar pieces - 2 pcs

y Collar band - 2 pcs

y Applets - 2 pcs



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TRIMS AND ACCESSORIESy 14 buttons

y 2 labels

y 2 zippers

y 2 belt loops



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OPERATION BREAKDOWN

Sr no. Operation No. of operations1 Front yoke overlocked,

bottom f inishing and stitched

with concealed zipper

2

2 Front panel overlocked and

attached to zipper and f ront

yoke

2

3 Pocket patch attached 2

4 Front placket making- right 1

5 Front placket making lef t 1

6 Belt loop making 2

7 Attaching belt loop to lef t

panel

1

8 Label attached to inner back

yoke

1

9 Inner and outer Back yoke

attaching to back panel while

1



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inserting the loop and pleats

10 Shoulder attaching 2

11 Diamond placket attached to

sleeves

2

12 Aplet attaching 2

13 Sleeve cuff s attached to

sleeves while inserting pleats

2

14 Sleeves attached to armhole 2

15 Slit making 2

16 Side seam closed 2

17 Collar making operation 1

18 Collar band making 1

19 Collar attached to collar band 1

20 Collar band attached to neck 1

21 Button holing operation 14

22 Button attaching 16

23 Bottom hemming 3



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PROCESS FLOW

BACK PANEL WITH

PLEATS

10

COLLAR

ATTACHED TO

NECK

SIDE SEAM

CLOSEDSLIT MAKING BOTTOM

HEMMING

BUTTON

HOLING AND

ATTACHING

18 1716 15

FRONT PANEL

BACK YOKE SHOULDER

ATTACHING

FRONT PLACKET

LEFT

POCKET PATCH

FRONT PLACKET

RIGHT

SL

EEVES

LABEL

BELT LOOP

ZIPPER FRONT YOKE 1

7

3

8

4

11

2

5

9

6

SLEEVES

CUFFS

DIAMOND PLACKET APLET

ATTACHING

1312SLEEVES

ATTACHED TO ARMHOLE

14



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OPERATI

ON 1

(A) Front yoke overlocked

Stitch typ

e

5

04-

3threa

dovere

dge

Seam type None

SPI 9

Seam diagram

Machine used 1 needle 2 looper overlock machine

Thread 60-80

Needle DC X 27





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(B) Downturn then stitch

Stitch type Double needle lock stitch Seam type None

SPI 9

Seam diagram

Machin

e use

d DNLS machi

ne

Thread 60-80

Needle DB X 1 (#14)

Deskilling device None




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(B) Attached to concealed zipper

Stitch type 301

Seam type Superimpose

SPI 9

Seam diagram

Machine used SNLS machine

Thread 60-80

Needle DB X 1 (#14)

Deskilling devices zipper attachment




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OPERATI

ON 2

(A) Front panel overlocked

Stitch type 504- 3 thread overedge

Seam type None

SPI 9

Seam diagram


Thread 60-80

Needle DC X 27





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(B) Attached to zipper

Stitch type 301

Seam type Superimposed seam

SPI 9

Seam diagram

Machine used SNLS

Thread 60-80

Needle DB X 1 (#14)


Alternate stitch Zipper attachment



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(C) Attached to f ront yoke

Stitch type 301Seam type superimposed seam

SPI 9

Seam diagram

Machine used SNLS Thread 60-80

Needle DB X 1 (#14)





37

OPERATI

ON 3

(A) Pocket patch overlocked

Stitch type 504- 3 thread overedge

Seam type None

SPI 9

Seam diagram


Thread 60-80

Needle DC X 27

Deskilling devices none Alternate stitch none



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(B) Pocket patch attached f rom inside to the yoke and f ront panel

Stitch typ

e301

Seam type superimposed seam

SPI 9

Seam diagram

Machine used SNLS

Thread 60-80

Needle DB X 1 (#14)





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OPERATION 4

Front placket making- lef t

Stitch type 401 - topstitch

Seam type None

SPI 9

Seam diagram

Machine used 4 needle chain stitch , automatic placket making machine

Thread 60-80

Needle TV X 1


Alternate stitch Placket making f older



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OPERATION 5

Front placket making right

Stitch type 301

Seam type None

SPI 9

Seam diagram

Machine used SNLS

Thread 60-80

Needle DB X 1 (#14)

Deskilling devices Compensating attachment

Alternate stitch Single downturn f older- SNLS



41

OPERATION 6

Belt loop making

Stitch type 301

Seam type None

SPI 9

Seam diagram

Machine used 2 needle lockstitch machine

Thread 60-80

Needle DB X 1 (#14)

Deskilling devices Belt loop making f older

Alternate stitch Downturn then topstitch



42

OPERATION 7

Attaching to lef t panel

Stitch type 301


SPI 9

Seam diagram


Thread 60-80

Needle DB X 1 (#14)


Alter

nate

stitch

No

ne



43

OPERATION 8

Label attaching to inner back yoke

Stitch type 301


SPI 9

Seam diagram

Machine used SNLS

Thread 60-80

Needle DB X 1 (#14)


Alter

nate

stitch

No

ne



44

OPERATION 9

Inner and outer Back yoke attaching to back panel while inserting the loop and pleats

Stitch type 301

Seam type 1 cm stitch then upturn yokes then TNLS

SPI 9

Seam diagram


Thread 60-80

Needle DB X 1 (#14)


Alter

nate

stitch

No

ne



45

OPERATION 10

Shoulder attaching

Stitch type 301

Seam type 1 cm SNLS then upturn yokes then TNLS

SPI 9

Seam diagram

Machine used 1 and 2 needle lockstitch machine

Thread 60-80

Needle DB X 1 (#14)





46

OPERATION 11

Diamond placket attached to sleeves

Stitch type 301

Seam type None

SPI 9

Seam diagram

Machine used Diamond Slip placket making then topstitch

Thread 60-80

Needle DB X 1 (#14)





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OPERATION 12

Applet attaching

Stitch type 301


SPI 9

Seam diagram

Machine used SNLS

Thread 60-80

Needle DB X 1 (#14)





48

OPERATION 13

Sleeve cuffs attached to sleeves while inserting pleats

Stitch type 301

Seam type 1 cm SNLS then upturn cuff s then TNLS

SPI 9

Seam diagram

Machine used 1 and 2 needle lockstitch machine

Thread 60-80

Needle DB X 1 (#14)





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OPERATION 14

Sleeves attached to armhole

Stitch type 301

Seam type Flat and f ell

SPI 9

Seam diagram

Machine used 2 needle lock stitch

Thread 60-80

Needle DB X 1 (#14)


Alternate stitch 2 needle chain stitch using lap seam f older



50

OPERATION 15

Slit making

Stitch type 304

Seam type Double down turn

SPI 9

Seam diagram

Machine used Double needle lock stitch , bar tacking machine

Thread 60-80

Needle DB X 1 (#14)





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OPERATION 16

(A) Lef t Side seam closed while inserting label

Stitch type 401Seam type lap seam

SPI 9

Seam diagram

Machine used 2 needle chain stitch Thread 60-80

Needle TV X 1


Alternate stitch Lap seam f older- f eed off the arm



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(B) Right side seam closed

Stitch type 401

Seam type Lap seam

SPI 9

Seam diagram

Machine used 2 needle chain stitch

Thread 60-80

Needle TV X 1


Alternate stitch Lap seam f older- f eed off the arm



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OPERATION 17

Collar making operation- fusing attachment then topstitch, collar turning and pressing-

automatic pressing machine

Stitch type 301

Seam type superimpose

SPI 9

Seam diagram

Machine used 2 needle lock stitch

Thread 60-80

Needle DB X 1 (#14)

Deskilli

ng devices

No

ne




54

OPERATION 18

Collar band making

Stitch type 301


SPI 9

Seam diagram

Machine used SNLS

Thread 60-80

Needle DB X 1 (#14)





55

OPERATION 19

Collar attached to collar band

Stitch type 301


SPI 9

Seam diagram

Machine used SNLS

Thread 60-80

Needle DB X 1 (#14)





56

OPERATION 20

Collar band attached to neck

Stitch type 301


SPI 9

Seam diagram

Machine used SNLS

Thread 60-80

Needle DB X 1 (#14)





57

OPERATION 21

Button holing operation

Stitch type 304

Seam type None

SPI 9

Seam diagram

Machine used Button holing machine

Thread 60-80

Needle DB X 5





58

OPERATION 22

Button attaching

Stitch type 101

Seam type None

SPI 9

Seam diagram

Machine used

Thread 60-80

Needle TQ





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OPERATION 23

Bottom hemming

Stitch type 301

Seam type Double downturn

SPI 9

Seam diagram

Machine used Double downturn lockstitch machine

Thread 60-80

Needle DB X 1 (#14)



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