garments & garment defects zubair lahore

Presentation Presentation

on on

Garment and garment Garment and garment

defects defects By Muhammad Zubair

Introduction Introduction

of of

Knitted and Woven Garment StylesKnitted and Woven Garment Styles

Garment Styles IntroductionGarment Styles Introduction

Styles for Tops.Styles for Tops.

•• Crew neckCrew neck

•• V neckV neck

•• Mock neckMock neck

•• Turtle neckTurtle neck

•• Base ball crewBase ball crew

•• PoloPolo

•• RugbyRugby

•• HenleyHenley

•• HooderHooder

Styles for bottomsStyles for bottoms

•• MenMen’’s basic pants basic pant

•• Kids Kids ¾¾ pant pant

•• Ladies basic pantLadies basic pant

•• MenMen’’s Bermudas Bermuda

••

Crew neckCrew neck

V neckV neck

Mock neckMock neck

Turtle neck Turtle neck

Base ball crew Base ball crew

Polo ShirtPolo Shirt

RugbyRugby

HenleyHenley

HooderHooder

Hooder

MenMen’’s basic pants basic pant

Kids Kids ¾¾ pant pant

Ladies basic pantLadies basic pant

MenMen’’s Bermudas Bermuda

Flow Chart of Textile IndustryFlow Chart of Textile Industry

Fabric

Cutting

Finishing

Sewing

Packing

Dyeing

QualityQuality

““ To make garment according to buyers To make garment according to buyers

requirement. requirement. ””

�� Make garments free of any defects.Make garments free of any defects.

�� Keep garment measurements according to buyerKeep garment measurements according to buyer’’s requirement.s requirement.

�� Make garment aesthetically goodMake garment aesthetically good..

FabricFabric

used in Garmentsused in Garments

Knitted fabricKnitted fabric

Woven fabricWoven fabric

Wale

“Columns of knitted loops

along the length of fabric”

Unit: Wales / cm

Knitted fabric: Knitted fabric:

•• CourseCourse

““Rows of knitted loops Rows of knitted loops

across the width of fabricacross the width of fabric””

Unit: Course / cmUnit: Course / cm

Main Knitted fabric typesMain Knitted fabric types

•• JerseyJersey

•• RibRib

•• InterlockInterlock

•• PiquePique

•• FleeceFleece

Woven fabric: Woven fabric: weaving is the process of interlacing weaving is the process of interlacing

two or more yarns at right angels to each other to produce woventwo or more yarns at right angels to each other to produce wovenfabicfabic..

�� The yarn which The yarn which

run in the length run in the length

wise direction are wise direction are

called warp (End) called warp (End)

.While those .While those

which run cross which run cross

wise are called wise are called

Filling or weft Filling or weft

(Pick).(Pick).

Main woven fabric typesMain woven fabric types

•• Plain Plain

•• Twill Twill

•• Satin Satin

•• Canvas Canvas

Cutting ProcessCutting Process

Contents of cutting processContents of cutting process

•• Introduction of patternsIntroduction of patterns

•• Understanding of lay plans and consumptionUnderstanding of lay plans and consumption

•• Spreading TechniquesSpreading Techniques

•• cutting techniques and equipmentcutting techniques and equipment

Cutting Flow chartCutting Flow chart

Fabric

receiving

Trim sheet

making

(roll to roll)

Mock ups

verification

Lot to lot

Continuity shade

cards making

Lot to lot

Cutting plans

gives to masterLay spreading

Specs &

consumption

Random cutting

audit

BundlingIn house

embellishments

100 % cut

panel audit

Induction in

Sewing

commercial

embellishmentsRe bundling

Automatic SpreadingAutomatic Spreading

Cutting TechniquesCutting Techniques

�� Automatic CutterAutomatic Cutter

Sewing Sewing

Sewing IntroductionSewing Introduction

•• Sewing needlesSewing needles

•• Stitch types & their characteristicsStitch types & their characteristics

•• Sewing machine typesSewing machine types

Sewing Machine TypesSewing Machine Types

•• Single needle lock stitch machineSingle needle lock stitch machine

•• Double needle lock stitch machineDouble needle lock stitch machine

•• Three thread over lock machineThree thread over lock machine

•• Four thread over lock machineFour thread over lock machine

•• Flat lock machineFlat lock machine

•• Buttonhole making machineButtonhole making machine

•• Button attach machineButton attach machine

•• Bar tack machine. Bar tack machine.

LockLock--Stitch MachineStitch Machine

OverOver--lock Machinelock Machine

FlatFlat--Lock MachineLock Machine

�� Buttonhole machineButtonhole machine

Sewing machine typesSewing machine types

�� Button attach machineButton attach machine

Sewing machine typesSewing machine types

Packing inspectionPacking inspection

Importance of packing inspectionImportance of packing inspection

�� Packing inspection is an important part of qualityPacking inspection is an important part of quality

assurance system.assurance system.

�� Packing indicates how many product will be shipped Packing indicates how many product will be shipped together in the same box or container.together in the same box or container.

�� Some critical buyerSome critical buyer’’s have very specific requirement for s have very specific requirement for packaging because of their automation systems and the packaging because of their automation systems and the number of items that are processed on a daily basis.number of items that are processed on a daily basis.

Importance of packing inspectionImportance of packing inspection

For exampleFor example

�� Some buyer required carton bar code sticker on end portion of Some buyer required carton bar code sticker on end portion of

carton or side portion of carton according to ware house carton or side portion of carton according to ware house

requirement and buyer can reject the shipment due to wrong or requirement and buyer can reject the shipment due to wrong or

unreadable barcode stickers.unreadable barcode stickers.

�� Buyers can reject whole shipment because of wrong packaging. Buyers can reject whole shipment because of wrong packaging.

Garment presentation inspectionGarment presentation inspection


The following are the inspection points for garmentThe following are the inspection points for garment

presentation.presentation.

�� Garment balancingGarment balancing

a) Even shouldersa) Even shoulders

b) Even sleevesb) Even sleeves

c) Even armholesc) Even armholes

d) Even Under armsd) Even Under arms

e) Even sidese) Even sides

f ) Even sleeve / cuff openingf ) Even sleeve / cuff opening

g) Even side ventsg) Even side vents


�� Garment pressingGarment pressing

a) No wrinklesa) No wrinkles

b) No iron marksb) No iron marks

c) No press folding marksc) No press folding marks

�� Garment shapeGarment shape

a) Even neck / collar shapea) Even neck / collar shape

b) Even arm hole shapeb) Even arm hole shape

c) even back moon shapec) even back moon shape

d) Even hem bottom shaped) Even hem bottom shape

Final inspectionFinal inspection•• Check packingCheck packing

•• Choose samplesChoose samples

•• Check against style sheetCheck against style sheet

•• Check against approvalsCheck against approvals

•• Check garment QualityCheck garment Quality

•• Check garment measurements.Check garment measurements.

•• Make inspection report.Make inspection report.

AQL INTRODUCTIONAQL INTRODUCTION

AQL introductionAQL introduction

AQL stands for Acceptance Quality Levels.AQL stands for Acceptance Quality Levels.

�� AQL charts containsAQL charts contains

1) Lot size1) Lot size

2) Sample size2) Sample size

3) Acceptance / Rejection Level3) Acceptance / Rejection Level

AQL 0.065

Tighter

2.5

AQL 6.5

Easier

AQL introductionAQL introduction

AQL stands for Acceptance Quality Levels.AQL stands for Acceptance Quality Levels.1) Lot size : Quantity of garment presented for inspection. 1) Lot size : Quantity of garment presented for inspection.

2) Sample size : Selected number of garment for inspection.2) Sample size : Selected number of garment for inspection.

3) Acceptance : No of defective garments up to which shipment 3) Acceptance : No of defective garments up to which shipment is pass. is pass.

4) Rejection : No of defective garments from which shipment is4) Rejection : No of defective garments from which shipment is fail.fail.

�� Sample size for a given lot size will change with the change ofSample size for a given lot size will change with the change of levels. The levels. The acceptance and rejection levels will also change according to leacceptance and rejection levels will also change according to levels.vels.

�� The AQL levels for inThe AQL levels for in--line, during production and final inspections for line, during production and final inspections for different buyers can be different.different buyers can be different.

Types of DefectsTypes of Defects

A.A. Spinning DefectsSpinning Defects

B.B. Knitting and Weaving DefectsKnitting and Weaving Defects

C.C. Dyeing/Finishing DefectsDyeing/Finishing Defects

D.D. Embellishment DefectsEmbellishment Defects

E.E. Trims DefectsTrims Defects

F.F. Stitching DefectsStitching Defects

A.A. Spinning DefectsSpinning Defects

•• Fluff / ContaminationFluff / Contamination

•• KnotKnot

•• Yarn Variation / BarreYarn Variation / Barre

•• Contrast SeedsContrast Seeds

•• HairinessHairiness

Fluff Fluff

contaminationcontamination

Knot Knot

Yarn variation / Yarn band.Yarn variation / Yarn band.

104. 104. Trash / Contrast seedsTrash / Contrast seeds

105. 105. Hairiness Hairiness

B.B. Knitting and weaving DefectsKnitting and weaving Defects

•• HoleHole

•• Fabric / Needle RunFabric / Needle Run

•• Incorrect Fabric WeightIncorrect Fabric Weight

•• Stop mark Stop mark

•• MisMis pickpick

•• Loose endLoose end

Hole Hole

Fabric/ Needle run Fabric/ Needle run

Incorrect fabric weightIncorrect fabric weight

460 GSM

(Approved)

160 GSM

(Reject)

Stop markStop mark

MisMis pick pick

Loose end Loose end

C.C. Dyeing/Finishing DefectsDyeing/Finishing Defects

•• Color ShadingColor Shading

•• Dye / Finishing streaks / creasesDye / Finishing streaks / creases

•• Shade patchesShade patches

•• PillingPilling

•• Yellowing of white fabricYellowing of white fabric

Color shadingColor shading

Approved Reject

Dyeing or finishing streaksDyeing or finishing streaks

Fabric defects of dyeing finishingFabric defects of dyeing finishing

. . Shade patches / Uneven dyingShade patches / Uneven dying

Fabric defects of dyeing finishingFabric defects of dyeing finishing116 . 116 . Calendar lineCalendar line

Fabric defects of dyeing finishingFabric defects of dyeing finishing117 . 117 . PillingPilling

Embellishment DefectsEmbellishment Defects

Unraveling embellishmentUnraveling embellishment

Peeling EmbellishmentPeeling Embellishment

Cracking EmbellishmentCracking Embellishment

Poor coveragePoor coverage

Approved

Reject

Incorrect color shade Incorrect color shade

Embellishment Embellishment

Approved Reject

Incorrect size EmbellishmentIncorrect size Embellishment

Approved

Reject

Incorrect placement of Incorrect placement of

Embellishment Embellishment

Approved

Reject

Untrimmed thread EmbroideryUntrimmed thread Embroidery

Hoop Pleat MarksHoop Pleat Marks

Embellishment Missing Embellishment Missing

Embellishment not as specified Embellishment not as specified

ApprovedReject

Trims defects Trims defects

Missing trimMissing trim

Insecure trimInsecure trim

Broken trimBroken trim

Inoperable trimInoperable trim

Incorrect color / shade / Code trimIncorrect color / shade / Code trim

Incorrect size trimIncorrect size trim

Trim not as specifiedTrim not as specified

Misaligned trimMisaligned trim

Illegible trimIllegible trim

Incorrect placement of trimIncorrect placement of trim

Sewing DefectsSewing Defects

DamagesDamages

•• Broken stitchesBroken stitches

•• Skip stitchSkip stitch

•• Open seamOpen seam

•• Needle holeNeedle hole

•• Needle chewNeedle chew

•• Poor reworkPoor rework

Sewing defects Sewing defects

ConstructionConstruction

Crooked shape neckCrooked shape neck

Crooked collarCrooked collar

High / Low collar pointHigh / Low collar point

High / Low placketHigh / Low placket

Slanted / crooked placketSlanted / crooked placket

Exposed underExposed under--placketplacket

Pleat / Hole at placket boxPleat / Hole at placket box

High / Low shoulderHigh / Low shoulder

Sewing problems Sewing problems

Raw edges Raw edges

Overrun stitch Overrun stitch

Insecure stitch endings Insecure stitch endings

Incorrect tension / Graining Incorrect tension / Graining

Uneven stitching Uneven stitching

Puckering Puckering

Pleat Pleat

MisalignmentMisalignment

OverlappingOverlapping

RopingRoping


NegligenceNegligenceStrip mismatchingStrip mismatching

Uneven hemUneven hem

Inconsistent stitch countInconsistent stitch count

Excess / Less seam allowanceExcess / Less seam allowance

Incorrect placement of componentIncorrect placement of component

Incorrect color combinationIncorrect color combination

Untrimmed threadsUntrimmed threads

Construction not as specifiedConstruction not as specified


FabricFabricTwisted garmentTwisted garment

Incorrect fabric shade usedIncorrect fabric shade used

Shading within garmentShading within garment



Broken stitchesBroken stitches

Sewing problems Sewing problems Skip stitchesSkip stitches


Open seamOpen seam

Needle holeNeedle hole



Needle chewNeedle chew

Summary SlideSummary Slide

�� Sewing problems Sewing problems

Poor reworkPoor rework


Crooked shape neckCrooked shape neck


Crooked collarCrooked collar


High / Low collar pointHigh / Low collar point


High / Low placketHigh / Low placket


Slanted / crooked placketSlanted / crooked placket


Exposed under placketExposed under placket

Sewing problems & RemediesSewing problems & Remedies

Pleat / hole at placketPleat / hole at placket


High / Low shoulderHigh / Low shoulder



Raw edgesRaw edges

Overrun stitchOverrun stitch


Insecure stitch endingsInsecure stitch endings


Incorrect tension / grainingIncorrect tension / graining


Uneven stitchingUneven stitching


PuckeringPuckeringSewing problems Sewing problems

PleatPleat


MisalignmentMisalignment


OverlappingOverlapping


RopingRoping


Stripe mismatchingStripe mismatching


Uneven hemUneven hem


Inconsistent stitch countInconsistent stitch count


Excess / Less seam allowanceExcess / Less seam allowance


Incorrect placement of componentIncorrect placement of component


Approved Reject

Incorrect color combinationIncorrect color combination


Approved Reject

Untrimmed threadsUntrimmed threads


Construction not as specifiedConstruction not as specified


Approved Reject

Twisted garmentTwisted garment


Incorrect fabric shade usedIncorrect fabric shade used


Approved Reject

Shading with in garmentsShading with in garments


Clock Wise Clock Wise

Garment InspectionGarment Inspection

Thank YouThank You

garments & garment defects zubair lahore

Engineering

main knitted fabric

woven garment stylesknitted

width of fabric unit

length of fabric unit

goodmake garment

buyerkeep garment measurements

woven fabicfabic

wale columns of knitted