glacier travel workshop - alaska mountaineering · pdf fileglacier travel workshop ! ... water...

A M S ! Box 566, 3rd St, Talkeetna, AK 99676 ! ph: 907.733.1016 ! fax: 907.733.1362 ! [email protected] ! www.climbalaska.org

! GLACIER TRAVEL WORKSHOP !

Expedition members negotiating a snow-covered glacier in the Alaska Range.

3-DAY GLACIER TRAVEL & CREVASSE RESCUE WORKSHOP, MATANUSKA GLACIER, 1 ,600’

Due upon registration: $685 Balance Due: 60 days prior to the starting dateGroup Size: 12 students, 3 instructors

Tuition Includes: Instruction, group climbing equipment: ropes, ice screws, webbing, sleds, wands. AMS guides carry emergency cell/sat phone, first aid/drug kits. Each person will receive color coded webbing and perlon necessary for a glacier rig.

You are responsible for: Glacier Park Resort gate fee (payable to AMS), transportation to and from the Matanuska Glacier, lodging, all meals, personal climbing equipment.

PREREQUISITES

There are no prerequisites for this workshop. Participants are expected to be in average athletic condition. You can increase your preparedness by reading “Glacier Mountaineering: The Illustrated Guide to Glacier Travel and Crevasse Rescue”, by Andy Tyson and Mike Clelland, published by Climbing Magazine and available at AMS. Clelland has been an AMS instructor and the book compliments many of the classes taught during the workshop. We encourage you to practice tying knots in advance: the Overhand series, Figure 8 series (such as Figure 8 on a Bight & Figure 8 on a Bend - a.k.a. Flemish Bend), Water Knot - a.k.a. Overhand on a Bend, Prusik Hitch and others.

FEATURES OF THIS WORKSHOP

• Mountaineering ground school • Raising systems • Fixed-line ascension • Crevasse fall scenarios • Route finding

OVERVIEW

The Matanuska Glacier is about 27 miles long, descending from Mount Marcus Baker in the Chugach Range, 13,176 feet high. The toe of the glacier can be conveniently accessed by the Alaska road system, making this location is an ideal classroom. Most of the instruction will take place on the glacier.

The Glacier Travel & Crevasse Rescue Workshop provides instruction on climbing techniques and safety systems necessary to travel safely on a glacier. This is an introductory workshop that covers a large amount of material; please come prepared for long days out on the ice. We will cover knots, harnesses, crampon use, self-arrest positions, placing protection, and building anchors. We will practice coiling, belaying, and stacking the ropes for glacier travel. Students will form rope teams and practice traveling and route-finding skills. Students will practice fixed line ascension techniques at a crevasse or suitable cliff face. Time is spent roping up for glacier travel in separate teams and practicing crevasse fall scenarios. We will also introduce mechanical advantage and raising systems: Drop-C and Z-pulley systems.


LOCATION

We will meet at 9:00 a.m. at the Glacier Park Resort gate and travel together to the toe of the Matanuska Glacier, at the end of the privately maintained road. The glacier is accessed through the Resort (907-745-2534), Glacier View, AK 99645. The Resort turn-off is at mile 102 of the Glenn Highway. Look for small green “Glacier Park Road” sign. If you pass the Long Rifle Lodge, you’ve gone just a bit too far. Follow the gravel road to the entrance gate and check in at the office. You will have pre-paid your gate fee directly to AMS and the Resort staff will have a list of workshop participants. Continue a couple of miles on this road to the parking lot at the end to reach the meeting location (past the camping area). All participants are responsible for their own transportation.

ACCOMMODATIONS & FOOD

Lodging or camping is your preference. The pre-paid gate fee includes the option to camp. There are outhouses, but no other facilities. The Long-rifle Lodge offers pack lunches for pickup with advance notice. The list below outlines most of your local lodging and food options.

Note: If you plan to camp on Thursday night, before your workshop, you must arrive before 5:00 pm when the Glacier Park Resort office closes.

Glacier Park Resort 907-745-2534

Campsites near the glacier, no amenities

Long Rifle Lodge 907-745-5151

www.longriflelodge.com Simple rooms and a restaurant overlooking the glacier

Mat. Glacier State Rec. Area

907-745-5151 dnr.alaska.gov/parks/aspunits/matsu/matsuglsrs.htm Campsites and one recreational cabin available for rent 12 miles away, rooms, bunks and restaurant

Sheep Mountain Lodge 877-645-5121 www.sheepmountain.com 10 miles away, cabins, RV park and restaurant

Matanuska Lodge 907-746-0378 www.matanuskalodge.com 2 miles away, luxury-style lodge

Homestead Cabins

907-745-4514 www.homesteadcabinsak.com 5 miles away, fully equipped secluded cabins

Grandview RV Park 907-746-4480 www.grandviewrv.com 10 miles away, cafe, desserts & pizza

(summer only)

Tundra Rose Cottages 800-315-5865 www.tundrarosecabins.com 10 miles away, fully equipped cabins


! EQUIPMENT LIST ! The equipment list outlines what is generally used on this workshop. Expect to get wet on the icy surface of the glacier, with snow and cooler temperatures present in April and rain possible throughout the season. The equipment labeled RNT or $$$ is available for rent or purchase from AMS. Items labeled N/A are not available from AMS and you should bring them with you. Purchases can be added to your rental form. Items labeled INC will be provided by AMS and are included in the cost of tuition. AMS participants receive discounted rates on purchases. Contact us if you have any questions.

Each participant must complete and return the Workshop Rentals Form at least one week prior to the workshop. The Glacier Park Resort gate fee is listed on the form and must be paid in advance. You may include the gate fee when you make your final tuition payment.

Please label your gear with your name or an identifying mark such as a piece of colored tape.

RNT The item may be RENTED from AMS.

INC Included at no charge. The item is provided by AMS

$$$ The item is for PURCHASE ONLY from AMS. N/A Item is NOT AVAILABLE from AMS; you need to obtain before your arrival. OPT Item is Optional

FOOTWEAR

$$$ SOCKS: 2 pairs. Expedition weight: wool, capilene, or polypropylene. No wool/cotton blends. Liner socks are optional.

RNT PLASTIC DOUBLE MOUNTAINEERING BOOTS: 1 pair. Fit with one or two sock combinations. Your toes should be free to wiggle and your heel should not lift more than 1/2 inch when walking. Kick the toe of the boot against a wooden post; your toes should not hit the end of the boot until the 3rd hit. AMS rents Scarpa Inverno in men’s sizes 4.5 - 13.5 and women’s sizes 6.5 - 15. Leather or synthetic boots with good ankle support that are crampon compatible can also be used.

UPPER-BODY

$$$ POLYPRO TOP: 2 layers. One light or mid weight and one heavy weight polypropylene or wool. $$$ FLEECE JACKET OR HEAVY WOOL SWEATER: 1 layer. A vest may be preferred in July. $$$ INSULATED PARKA: 1 layer. April only. Synthetic or Down with hood. $$$ RAIN/WIND SHELL: 1 layer. Waterproof/breathable fabric such as Gore-Tex roomy enough to fit over layers.

LOWER-BODY CLOTHING

$$$ LONG UNDERWEAR: 1 layer. One light weight polypropylene. Heavier weight if you tend to be cold. $$$ INSULATED OVERPANTS: 1 layer. April only. Synthetic filled shelled pants with full side zips. Pile pants are OK if

worn under rain pants. A softshell layer or warmer long underwear may be desirable in August. $$$ RAIN/WIND PANTS: 1 layer. Waterproof/breathable fabric such as Gore-Tex roomy enough to fit over layers.

Side zips to fit over plastic boots.

HEAD

$$$ BASEBALL CAP OR SUN HAT: 1 (should fit under helmet) $$$ WOOL OR FLEECE HAT: 1,Warm ski hat (should fit under helmet).

HANDS

$$$ NEOPRENE GLOVES: 1 pair. Summer months. Paddling or gardening gloves with rubber grip work well. $$$ FLEECE GLOVES: 1 pair. Cooler months. Rubber grip is helpful. An extra (dry) pair may be desirable if you are

camping. $$$ INSULATED GLOVES: 1 pair. April only. With removable liners; insulated, waterproof/breathable gloves provide

warmth and dexterity in the cold. $$$ INSULATED OVERMITTS: 1 pair. April only. These should fit together and comfortably over your fleece gloves.

Mittens are warmer than gloves and are considered by most people to be essential equipment for mountaineering in Alaska.


TRAVEL EQUIPMENT

$$$ DAY PACK: 1. The main compartment should be approximately 3,500 cu. in./60 L, and have places for ice axe and crampons to be lashed on the outside.

RNT CRAMPONS: 1 pair. 10 or 12-point crampons (must have front points) which fit securely on your boots. RNT SNOWSHOES: 1 pair. April only, depending on conditions. Collapsible ski poles may also be desired.

CLIMBING EQUIPMENT

RNT HELMET: 1. Suitable for climbing. RNT MT. ICE AXE: 1. 60-90 cm. general mountaineering ice axe suitable for self-arrest and snow climbing. RNT SEAT HARNESS: 1. Adjustable climbing harness, should fit over layers. AMS rents: Black Diamond Alpine Bod. RNT CARABINERS: 9. Oval or D-shaped, regular gate or wire gate. RNT LOCKING CARABINERS: 3. Full-size screw-gate carabiner rated for 4,000-5,000 lbs. 3 Pear shape, or 2 Pear & 1

D shape. RNT ASCENDER and SLING: 1. Petzl, Jumar or CMI, with a handle big enough for your mittened hand. Rentals include

6 foot ascender sling. Sling can be a sewn model or made from 6mm perlon or 1” tubular webbing. INC CORDLETTE: 45-49 feet of 6 mm perlon cordage, cut into sections: 6, 6, 7, 8 and 18 feet. Used for your foot and

waist prussic (7’ & 6’), rescue prussic (6’), and pack leash (8’-12’, depending on the type of pack you have and how the haul loop needs to be backed up), anchor cord (18’).

INC TUBULAR WEBBING: 29’. 1” tubular webbing is used for your gear sling (6’), chest harness (9’), (6’) sled haul, (8’) ascender sling.

SUN

$$$ SUN GLASSES: 1. Should block 100% UV and 95% IR. If you wear prescription lenses, bring your own prescription sunglasses.

$$$ LIP BALM: 1 tube, with sun protection rating. $$$ SUNSCREEN: 1, 1 or 2 oz tube, SPF 20 or greater. Zinc oxide is recommended for people with a history of

sunburn. $$$ BANDANA (OPT): 1. The only cotton allowed on the list. Used mostly to clean glasses and for protection from

the sun.

MISCELLANEOUS PERSONAL EQUIPMENT

$$$ WATER BOTTLE: 1. Wide mouth one quart size. Please fill beforehand. (April only: Bring insulated covers for your water bottles.)

N/A TRAIL FOOD: Enough trail food munchies to sustain you throughout each day. Remember, lunch begins after breakfast and ends before dinner. Plan to spend all day on the glacier. You may wish to pack a thermos filled with a hot beverage.

$$$ WATCH: 1, Waterproof with an alarm. Please bring a watch even if you are not in the habit of using one.

OPTIONAL ITEMS

RNT BELAY DEVICE: 1. ATC, or personal favorite, should be “Prusik-minding”; no Gri-Gri’s. $$$ HEAD LAMP: 1. April and August only, with fresh batteries.

! GROUP EQUIPMENT – AMS PROVIDES ! AMS provides all of the group workshop equipment, which is carefully checked and inventoried beforehand such as ropes, ice screws, pickets and other climbing equipment. Some items may be provided for demonstration purposes. We all share the use of and care for the group equipment. Instructors also carry first aid and drug kit, repair kits, and emergency communications (radio/cell phone/sat phone). Additionally, AMS developed the best glacier travel and crevasse rescue system and it was published in "The Illustrated Guide to Glacier Travel and Crevasse Rescue." We use a different color for every piece of webbing and perlon. You will be given pre-cut, color coded glacier rig. One of the most important components to the climbing safety system is everyone being able to check each other. This system will allow for this to happen consistently and efficiently.

Meet your course here!

Mile 102

Camping option for thenight before the course

Camping option afteryour course begins

Lodging & Meals

More lodging &meals options

glacier travel workshop - alaska mountaineering · pdf fileglacier travel workshop ! ... water...

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