HAIR

Inspired by four colorconnoisseurs we spotted on

Instagram, we asked threeexperts to give us real talk

on how to safely try pastels,rainbow and gray strands

BY NYKIA SPRADLEYPHOTOGRAPHY BY ITAYSHA JORDAN

TONALVISION

Our modelCamille Johnson(@offbeatLook)is an onlinecontent creator.

APRIL 2017 ESSENCE.COM 51

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HAIR : LIVELY TRESSES

If you have even a slight color-commitment phobia, thereare tons of temporary options that look just as cool. Ourmodel Adliad Elaine Kwawu used a blue spray-on tint to giveher dark fro a halo of cobalt. “Spray-on color, although it’sfun, can be a bit messy,” advises stylist and colorist StaceyCiceron of New York City. So it’s best to create your stylefirst and then apply the tint as an accent. Also allow the hairto dry before getting dressed or touching it. »

Prep for the ProcessWhether you’re doing it athome or having your coloradded by a pro, Owings Mills,Maryland, colorist ShaddahThompson recommendsgetting weekly deep-conditioningand protein treatments before-hand. “You also want to haveregular trims to avoid splitends,” she says.

Learn the Styling BasicsMinimal heat is the ticket when itcomes to working with color-treated strands. “Textured hair isnaturally dry, and adding colordefinitely increases dryness,” saysCiceron. Use sulfate-free shampoosand conditioners designed forcolor-treated locks, and moisturizedaily with a cocktail of water, oil andleave-in conditioner.

Take Good Care After ColoringRoutine conditioning sessionsusing unrefined coconut oil willhelp your hair stay hydrated.“Make sure you return to thesalon regularly to receive othertreatments to keep your hairhealthy,” says Thompson. “Andcommit to a regimen, becausecolors like [these below] requiremore maintenance.”

How to Hue

Perfect the DIY Dye

L’ORÉALPARIS

Colorista Semi-PermanentColor ($11,

drugstores).

REDKENCity Beats

Color Cream(price varies

by salon,redken.comfor salons).

BEYOND THEZONE

Color BombzTemporary

Color Spray ($6,Sally Beauty).

Kwawu is theepitome of acolor chame-leon. The collegestudent hasrocked everyshade fromtwo-tone fauxlocs to a teal fro.

Adliad ElaineKwawu

(@elaineafrika)“My different haircolors show howeccentric, vibrant

and bold mypersonality is.”

Fashion photographer Itaysha Jordan (@itayshaphoto) lives in Brooklyn. The 15-plus-year industryvet is committed to the growing movement of multiculturalism in the commercial art realm.

52 ESSENCE .COM APRIL 2017

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HAIR : LIVELY TRESSES

It may be tempting to watch some YouTube vids andget to coloring, but to achieve the vibrancy and cool-ness of bright colors, your hair has to be lightenedfirst. And lightening is not something that should everbe a DIY project. If you’re not ready to jump all theway into a shade on your own strands, dyeing a wigor extensions is an easy alternative. Just take the hairto your stylist and have it done professionally.

Check Coil QualityYour tresses should be thoroughlyassessed before you seek to trypermanent or semipermanentcolors. “[They have] to be able towithstand such a lighteningprocess,” says Thompson. Thestrength, porosity and elasticity ofyour strands will determine howmuch lightening can be done, ifany at all.

Lift SlowlyColoring your natural hair happensin phases. And remember, “hairshould not be lifted past four levelsof your original shade, to preservethe integrity,” Ciceron advises.Once it’s lightened, you candeposit your shade of choice.

Watch Out for Tricky PastelsSoft tones like pastels are a littlemore difficult to pull off, becauseyour locks need to be lifted tothe lightest blond (think plati-num) for the color to show up. Asafe bet for our hair: Look for acolorist who uses Olaplex or b3Brazilian Bond Builder with herservice. These products work asa barrier between the chemicaland your mane to keep it strongthroughout the dyeing processand to minimize breakage orother damage.

Healthy Hueing

Know When to Go Pro

L’ANZAHealing

ColorCareColor GuardSpray ($29,

lanza.com forsalons).

GOLDWELLKerasilk Color

Intensive LusterMask ($45,

goldwell.us forsalons).

ALTERNACaviar Infinite

Color HoldVibrancy

Serum ($34,sephora.com).

Of all the wigsthat hairstylistand salon ownerOludele hascolored, shesays, “I love mybig purple hair.It’s a favorite ofmine, and myclients love it also.”

Susan Oludele(@africancreature)“I usually love color,

but for this hair-style I wanted it to

be both subtleand bold.”

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Intentional gray hair is having a major moment,but many women are simply embracing theirnaturally silver strands. Whether gray hair is realor faux, upkeep isn’t easy. Natural gray tendsto be more coarse, but Ciceron says it tends tobe stronger than other natural-hair textures.Experiencing breakage with your gray? It’s likelydue to overprocessing or extreme dryness, whichcan affect anyone. •

Mellow the Yellow“The impact of environmentalelements like pollution, sun andwater can cause gray hair to turnyellowish,” says Rita Hazan,celebrity colorist and owner ofthe Rita Hazan Salon in New YorkCity. Try a purple-tinted shampoo,specifically made for blond andgray, that cancels out any huechanges in your locks.

Maintain Vibrancy“Most people with darker hair neverpay attention to the color of theirgel or shampoo,” says Ciceron. Butusing something tinted can actuallyshow up on platinum strands. “Grayhair picks up the slightest color.Like a piece of white fabric.” Tokeep silver strands bright, “useclear or white shampoo andconditioner,” says Ciceron.

Try a Fresh HueA perk to rocking your silvertresses is, if you’re into experi-menting with a bold new shade,you don’t have to bleach inadvance. “Leave the dye on alittle longer under heat,” saysHazan. The darker or more vividthe color, the easier it is to acceptthe pigment. But note that thecolor fades very quickly.

Silver Service

Slay the Gray

Get inspired to rockyour roots like Bean,a transformationcoach, above andthese silver stars doon Instagram:#grayhairdontcare.From left: @jjmua,@lbf_products and@fabnfitbycarla.

Mildred Bean(@naturalsilversista)

“It’s interesting to seeyounger people

desiring gray. Whatbetter time than now

to go for it whileit’s trendy!”

ORIBESilverati

Shampoo andConditioner

($46 and $48,oribe.com).

RITA HAZANNEW YORKTrue ColorUltimate

Shine Gloss($26, Ulta).

OGXLavender

LuminescentPlatinum

PenetratingOil ($8,

drugstores).INS

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