haircoloring color theory cosmetology: milady standard cosmetology ©2007 thomson delmar learning....

Haircoloring Color Theory

Cosmetology:

Milady StandardCosmetology

©2007 Thomson Delmar Learning. All Rights Reserved

MILADY’SStandardInstructor Support SlidesCOSMETOLOGY

“The only thing that makes life possible is permanent,

intolerable uncertainty, not knowing what comes

next”

Ursula K. Le Guin


Objectives• Identify principles of color theory and

relate them to haircolor• Explain level and tone and their role in

formulating haircolor• List four basic categories of haircolor,

explain their chemical effect on hair, and give examples of their use

• Explain the action of lighteners


Why Do People Color Their Hair?

• Cover up or blend gray hair• Enhance existing haircolor• Create a fashion or self expression

statement• Correct unwanted tones• Accentuate a particular haircut


Hair Structure• Cuticle• Cortex• Medulla


Texture• Coarse• Medium• Fine


Density• Number of hairs per square inch• Refers to hair thickness


Porosity• Low porosity• Average porosity• High porosity• Test for porosity


Natural Hair Color• Melanin in the cortex

– Eumelanin– Pheomelanin – Contributing pigment


The Level System• Unit of measurement• Identifies lightness or darkness• Arranged on scale of 1 to 10• 1 being darkest• 10 being lightest


Tone - Intensity• Tone or hue is balance of color

– Warm– Cool

• Intensity refers to strength of color tone


Identifying Natural Level• Crown area• Match swatches• Compare to hair strand• Determine level• Gray hair


Color Theory• Base colors

– Violet– Blue– Red-orange– Gold


Law of Color


Primary Colors• Blue• Red• Yellow


Secondary Colors• Green• Orange• Violet


Tertiary Colors• Blue-green• Blue-violet• Red-orange


Complementary Colors• Blue and orange• Red and green• Yellow and violet


Categories of Haircolor• Nonoxidative

– Temporary– Semipermanent

• Oxidative– Demipermanent– Permanent


Hair Lightening• Diffuses natural or artificial pigment• Developer is oxidizing agent• Contains alkalizing ingredient


Temporary Color• Does not penetrate

cuticle layer• Coats hair shaft• Neutralizes

unwanted tones• Available in variety

of colors and products


Semipermanent• Lasts several

shampoos• Penetrates hair shaft;

stains cuticle layer• Fades with each

shampoo• Non-oxidation


Demipermanent• Deposits color; does not lift• Ideal for:

– Covering unpigmented hair– Refreshing faded permanent color– Depositing tonal changes– Corrective color– Reverse highlighting


• Darkens haircolor• Causes little or no damage• Available in gel, cream, or liquid

Demipermanent


Permanent• Matches, lightens, covers• Contains ammonia, oxidative tints, and

peroxide• Contains aniline derivatives• Removes natural pigment while adding

artificial color


Natural Haircolors• From leaves or bark of plants• No lightening• Limited shade range• Professional products cannot be

applied over


Metallic Haircolor• Contains metal salts• Facilitates progressive buildup• Requires daily application


Hydrogen Peroxide• Oxidizing agents or catalysts• pH between 2.5 and 4.5

• H2O2

• Volume – Lower volume, less lift– Higher volume, greater lift


Purpose of Lighteners• Lighten prior to color application• Lighten to a desired shade• Brighten and lighten existing shade• Lighten only certain parts of hair• Lighten dark natural or color-treated

levels


Decolorizing Process• Hair goes through up to 10 stages


Contribution to Underlying Pigment

• Decolorize to appropriate level• Apply new color• Use toner to achieve pale color• Never lift past pale yellow


Summary and Review• List primary, secondary, and tertiary

colors• Name two types of melanin


Summary and Review• Define level, tone, and intensity• What are the classifications of

haircolor?


• Why is a patch test important?• What is a strand test?• What is the role of ammonia in a

haircolor formula?• What is the role of hydrogen peroxide

in a haircolor formula?

Summary and Review


Congratulations!You’ve just completed

another unit of study toward program completion

haircoloring color theory cosmetology: milady standard cosmetology ©2007 thomson delmar learning....

Documents

milady standard cosmetology

porosity slide

pigment slide

artificial color slide

guin slide

lightest slide

hair thickness slide

strength of color tone