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FOOD FASHION ARCHITECTURE STYLE
FASHIONShop the trends in jewellery and men’s fashion
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HERITAGE STORESChiltern Street’s shops reveal their unique heritage
STREET FOODThe best places to eat and drink on Chiltern Street
SPECIALIST STORESDiscover Chiltern Street’s specialist charm
ISSUE NO. 01 AUTUMN / WINTER 2014
04 11 14
EXCLUSIVE André Balazs reveals his creative thinking behind
Chiltern Firehouse
MARYLEBONE’S NEWEST MAGAZINE
2—AUTUMN / WINTER 2014
CHILTERN STREET MAGAZINE
Welcome to Chiltern Street Magazine. Twice a year we will be uncovering the best of Chiltern Street’s vibrant shopping, bar, restaurant and café scene. Chiltern Street, Marylebone is a place of surprises...intriguing objects, delicious food, stylish fashion and fascinating stories behind every store, and we’re here to be your guide.
EDITOR’S LETTER DAVID WATERS
Talk to the shop owners, restaurants and retailers of Chiltern Street and you’re bound to hear wonderful back-stories. Several of the shops on the street such as Pauline Burrows or whisky specialists Cadenhead’s moved from Covent Garden to this street in the heart of Marylebone without ever looking back.
Whereas others like Mats Klingberg of Trunk and Maria Lemos from Mouki Mou were quietly anticipating Chiltern Street’s transformation into the go-to shopping and dining hub it is today.
What has been the near unanimous feeling from everyone I’ve spoken to for this exciting first issue of Chiltern Street Magazine, is the friendliness of Chiltern Street itself. Visiting Chiltern Street feels like dropping in on a neighbourhood where all the locals have time for each other.
I have a hunch this friendliness comes from Chiltern Street’s confidence in offering a unique chance to buy, taste, see and experience things that can’t be found in the large-scale chain and department stores of nearby Oxford Street.
In this quiet oasis of a shopping street something far more personal and special is being offered which is definitely something to smile about.
WELCOMETO CHILTERN STREET
www.ChilternStreetW1.co.uk
Get in Contact
Twitter handle @ChilternSt www.facebook.com/ChilternStreetW1
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CONTENTS
HERITAGE STORESPage 04
SHOP DESIGNPage 06
INTERVIEW WITH ANDRÉ BALAZSPage 08
STREET FOODPage 11
CREATIVE MINDSPage 12
CHILTERN STREETSPECIALISTSPage 14
FOUNDERS IN FASHIONPage 16
JEWELLERY EDITPage 18
EDITOR’S SELECTIONPage 19
DIRECTORYPage 20
Heritage Stores New on the street Specialist Stores Jewellery Editors Picks DirectoryShop Design Profiles MapStore FeatureFood and drink
Heritage Stores New on the street Specialist Stores Jewellery Editors Picks DirectoryShop Design Profiles MapStore FeatureFood and drink
Heritage Stores New on the street Specialist Stores Jewellery Editors Picks DirectoryShop Design Profiles MapStore FeatureFood and drink
Heritage Stores New on the street Specialist Stores Jewellery Editors Picks DirectoryShop Design Profiles MapStore FeatureFood and drink
Heritage Stores New on the street Specialist Stores Jewellery Editors Picks DirectoryShop Design Profiles MapStore FeatureFood and drink
Heritage Stores New on the street Specialist Stores Jewellery Editors Picks DirectoryShop Design Profiles MapStore FeatureFood and drink
Heritage Stores New on the street Specialist Stores Jewellery Editors Picks DirectoryShop Design Profiles MapStore FeatureFood and drink
Heritage Stores New on the street Specialist Stores Jewellery Editors Picks DirectoryShop Design Profiles MapStore FeatureFood and drink
Heritage Stores New on the street Specialist Stores Jewellery Editors Picks DirectoryShop Design Profiles MapStore FeatureFood and drink
Heritage Stores New on the street Specialist Stores Jewellery Editors Picks DirectoryShop Design Profiles MapStore FeatureFood and drink
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Heritage Stores New on the street Specialist Stores Jewellery Editors Picks DirectoryShop Design Profiles MapStore FeatureFood and drink
Heritage Stores New on the street Specialist Stores Jewellery Editors Picks DirectoryShop Design Profiles MapStore FeatureFood and drink
Heritage Stores New on the street Specialist Stores Jewellery Editors Picks DirectoryShop Design Profiles MapStore FeatureFood and drink
Heritage Stores New on the street Specialist Stores Jewellery Editors Picks DirectoryShop Design Profiles MapStore FeatureFood and drink
Heritage Stores New on the street Specialist Stores Jewellery Editors Picks DirectoryShop Design Profiles MapStore FeatureFood and drink
Heritage Stores New on the street Specialist Stores Jewellery Editors Picks DirectoryShop Design Profiles MapStore FeatureFood and drink
Heritage Stores New on the street Specialist Stores Jewellery Editors Picks DirectoryShop Design Profiles MapStore FeatureFood and drink
Heritage Stores New on the street Specialist Stores Jewellery Editors Picks DirectoryShop Design Profiles MapStore FeatureFood and drink
Heritage Stores New on the street Specialist Stores Jewellery Editors Picks DirectoryShop Design Profiles MapStore FeatureFood and drink
4—AUTUMN / WINTER 2014
HERITAGE STORES
CHILTERN STREET MAGAZINE
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CHILTERN STREET HAS WELCOMED SOME EXCITING NEW ARRIVALS OVER THE PAST FEW YEARS, YET TWO OF THE STREET’S MOST ESTABLISHED SHOPS HAVE BACK-STORIES FROM DECADES AND EVEN CENTURIES AGO.
Heritage Stores New on the street Specialist Stores Jewellery Editors Picks DirectoryShop Design Profiles MapStore FeatureFood and drink
Cire Trudon36 Chiltern Street W1U 7QJwww.ciretrudon.co.uk
Grey Flannel7 Chiltern Street W1U 7PEwww.greyflannel-london.com
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TALES OF OLD
At number 36, on the east side of Chiltern Street is the elegant fragrance candle shop, Cire Trudon. The company’s founder Claude Trudon began making candles on Paris’s Rue du Faubourg Sainte-Honore in 1643. Legend has it that Louis XIV visited the church of Saint-Roch near the candle maker’s shop and was astounded by the pure whiteness of the candles he saw burning there. Their brilliance was due to Trudon’s unique manufacturing process: their wax was bleached white by the sun on the roof of his shop. From that moment Trudon supplied candles to the King and the royal court as well as having a near monopoly on candles for France’s Catholic churches, which it still supplies today.
“This shop is the first stand-alone Cire Trudon shop outside of Paris, let alone France,” says a proud Christopher Yu, managing director of Cire Trudon in the UK. Yu is itching to show off the shop’s latest candles (new fragrances are released every year) such as Ernesto, which takes inspiration from writer
Ernest Hemingway’s life in Cuba, the island he lived on for twenty years in the 1940s and 1950s. It is a smoky blend of wood and leather and conjures up the glamour of steaming tropical nights. Or La Maquise, a feminine blend of white flowers, verbena and rose, the kinds of flowers and scents you might notice in a Parisian garden. In the shop the precious candles are housed under glass domes, which are regularly lifted and wafted in front of customers’ noses to tempt them with the compelling aromas they contain.
Yu goes on to explain how Cire Trudon’s candle wax is purely vegetable-based and contains no petroleum, which makes it fully biodegradable as well as minimising air pollution when the candles burn.
Opposite Cire Trudon is the menswear shop Grey Flannel. It may not have the illustrious back-story of Cire Trudon, but this boutique is currently celebrating its 40th birthday which makes it one of Chiltern Street’s oldest shops. It’s stocked with easy-to-wear smart casual clothes such as softly tailored jackets, knitted ties, shirts and trousers
alongside the keenly priced Armani Collezioni label, the classic men’s fragrance, Grey Flannel, which was launched in 1975 and snazzy socks from Pantherella.
“The Giorgio Armani label approached us twenty years ago to stock their Collezioni label” says Richard Froomberg, Grey Flannel’s dapper owner. “The Italian label was looking for a menswear boutique in the West End to stock it alongside the department stores. We’ve been carrying the label ever since.” Froomberg points at a colourful wall in the shop printed with adverts and features about the boutique in newspapers and magazines from the past 40 years. ”I used to make wide straight legged trousers when I first started here,” says Froomberg, “It was a fashionable shape at the time and I had a London trouser maker, who made it in grey flannel as a signature style for us.” Perhaps unsurprisingly Grey Flannel have been making grey flannel trousers ever since.
I love Chiltern Street as it’s a lovely environment. People are friendly and helpful here. The atmosphere is great and customers notice it too. Coming here is different from going to a department store!RICHARD FROOMBERG
The thing I love most about Chiltern Street is the people. Nowhere else can you truly say you can wave to all your neighbours, from fellow shopkeepers to residents to regular customers…CHRISTOPHER YU
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01 Christopher Yu02 Richard Froomberg 03 Cire Trudon
04 Candles in Cire Trudon05 Grey Flannel
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02CHILTERN STREET MAGAZINE
SMART UNDERTAKINGS
It should come as little surprise that Chiltern Street houses shops with some of the most cutting edge interiors. This is a street of independent retailers after all. And one of the coolest aspects of being independent is the liberating ability not to look like everybody else, least of all high street chain stores or global fashion brands. For such shops often have such uniformity of décor, you have to look outside onto the street to see exactly where you are in the world.
Personifying that independent spirit perhaps more than any other is the swimwear, sunglasses, espadrille and cover-up store, Prism (54 Chiltern Street). It sells the kind of kit any sun-bound, stylish globetrotter would feel worryingly under-dressed without. Anna Laub, the brand’s founder/owner explains the logic of her brand, “everything you need for your holiday is under one roof - you therefore avoid the dashing from area to area you’d typically have do in a department store.”
It is this smart logic that runs into the look and feel of her shop too. “The plant terrariums were my idea,” says Laub with just a hint of pride. Gazing up at the above head level diamond-shaped glass boxes burst with greenery. The positioning of such a natural element in the sharp, delineated shop space feels surprising until you notice further natural elements: the sanded parquet floor, dark grained wood, marble and chrome. Designed with set designer and fashion wunderkind Richard Storey, who has also worked with Louis Vuitton and Chanel, and the architect Richard Bennett, they have along with Laub, created what the
influential fashion website Style.com has dubbed a ‘minimalist masterpiece’.
At the opposite end of Chiltern Street, the eponymous Archer Adams (2 Chiltern Street) is material savvy too. The jewel-like store’s interior is embellished with silvered wallpaper that cocoons customers in a diamond-studded cave of a shop. This contrasts with the organic undulating curved wood on the left-hand wall, resembling the skeletal flank of a mythical sea creature. The effect is both exciting and soothing for his bespoke and ready-to-wear customers, picking up their windowpane suits or lion-head handled umbrellas. It should come as no surprise that the dapper Archer Adams worked throughout the 1990s managing pop acts, as his shop is pure theatre.
It’s a quieter interior aesthetic at the Mouki Mou boutique and the Cox and Power jewellery shop (at 29 and 10-12 Chiltern Street respectively). In Mouki Mou, a tardis-like space unfolds origami-like as you walk down the bespoke mauve, steel-sheeted spiral staircase, “my favourite feature in the shop,” says Maria Lemos, MD of Mouki Mou. The staircase leads to the basement’s maze of rooms. Each room has been given a different flooring material and original fireplaces have been stripped back from under layers of black paint. White walls, octagonal grey floor tiles and white shelves designed by William Russell from the architecture practice, Pentagram quietly set off Lemos’s personal treasure trove of leather goods, shoes, unique fashion brands, textiles and paper weights. You can even find such exotica as chopping boards made from reclaimed fallen London trees by Hampson Woods.
At jewellers Cox and Power the current trend for revealing a heritage building’s raw surfaces such as exposed brickwork is used to beautiful effect, setting off the delicacy of their finely made work. “We took a chance going back to the bare brick and original floor as we had no idea what we would find,” says Rachel Sweeney, Cox and Power’s managing director. “It is great that the shop tells its own story, revealing its history.” Sweeney and her team worked with Jeremy Southgate and Stephen Quinn at Works Architecture who are also customers as well as being based near the shop. As Sweeney says with a hint of pride, “the natural and raw textures contrasts so well with the fine detail of our jewellery.”
The things I love most about Chiltern Street are our lovely neighbours who all have a genuine passion for what they do and the friendly creative atmosphere that keeps us all inspired. There is something to satisfy all the senses and we really do have the best of everything right on our doorstep.RACHEL SWEENEY
Chiltern Street is old world charm. The whisky shop, the musical instruments shop and the bazaar remind one of a village street in the country, not a road in central London.MARIA LEMOS
01 PRISM02 Archer Adams03 Mouki Mou images by Helen Cathcart
04 Cox & Power by Nick White
SHOP DESIGN
PRISM54 Chiltern Street, W1U 7QXwww.prismlondon.com
Archer Adams2 Chiltern Street, W1U 7PRwww.archeradams.co.uk
Mouki Mou29 Chiltern Street, W1U 7PLwww.moukimou.com
Cox and Power 10-12 Chiltern Street, W1U 7PXwww.coxandpower.com
Heritage Stores New on the street Specialist Stores Jewellery Editors Picks DirectoryShop Design Profiles MapStore FeatureFood and drink
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CHILTERN STREET’S SHOPS MAY HAVE BEEN BUILT AT THE TURN OF THE LAST CENTURY, BUT THAT HASN’T
HELD BACK SOME OF THE STREET’S COOLEST SHOPS FROM CALLING IN HI-TECH ARCHITECTS AND DESIGNERS TO
MAKE THEIR SHOPS LOOK THOROUGHLY MODERN.
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Mouki Mou29 Chiltern Street, W1U 7PLwww.moukimou.com
Cox and Power 10-12 Chiltern Street, W1U 7PXwww.coxandpower.com
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ANDRÉ BALAZS, THE OWNER OF THE HOTEL, BAR AND RESTAURANT, CHILTERN FIREHOUSE, SHARES HIS THINKING BEHIND THE RESTORATION OF HIS FIRST
PROPERTY OUTSIDE OF THE UNITED STATES.
CHILTERN STREET MAGAZINE
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INTERVIEW WITH ANDRÉ BALAZS
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Chiltern Firehouse (1 Chiltern Street), was built in 1889 by Robert Pearsall, the resident architect for the Metropolitan Board of Works. It is a Victorian gothic purpose-built fire station. Following its closure in 2005, it caught the eye of Hungarian American hotelier André Balazs, a man with a proven track record of reviving the fortunes of overlooked architectural gems. In 1990 Balazs restored LA’s landmark 1920s Chateau Marmont hotel to huge acclaim and even greater success.
“I had been trying to open a place in London for over a decade,” says the elegantly suited Balazs. “This was our third attempt at securing a landmark building in the city.” He is now relieved those previous ideas fell through. Now Chiltern Firehouse is fully launched, it looks fantastic and is attracting the kind of international creative figures who view his hotels as a second home. “I’d say sixty percent of our hotel guests know each other,” he says. “It’s very six degrees of separation.”
Balazs beams a satisfied smile over the Firehouse’s tree-lined courtyard (formerly the fire station drill yard) flanked by its massive working fireplace. Yet, he says it is hardly a surprise to him the building was empty for so long. “This listed building is just so complicated, it threw most developers off.”
Luckily Balazs is the sort of man who sees problems as creative opportunities. “The Firehouse was so remarkable because we would draw a floor plan and realise that it is only accurate up to two inches,” he says glancing towards what is now the casually elegant bar. “At three feet up the wall veers off at an angle and at five feet up the same wall leans back in the opposite direction.” This is why it has taken him and his in-house team of designers alongside interior specialists, Studio KO, lighting experts, Isometrix and British architect David Archer of Archer Humphreys Architects, more than five years to plan, design and restore Chiltern Firehouse into the warmly inviting 26 room hotel, bar and restaurant it is today. And perhaps to make it warmer still, each guest room has at least one working fireplace.
Turning a defunct listed Victorian municipal building in central London into a luxurious 21st century boutique
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hotel required digging a very deep hole. “There are two floors of plant works below this courtyard,” explains Balazs. These floors house the electrics, air conditioning, plumbing and other under-the-hood gizmos essential for the hotel’s effortlessly smooth running. It was not possible to put these on the hotel’s roof, he explains, as they would have undermined the building’s sculptural good looks. “A great hotel always makes you feel safe,” he says. “You must count on everything working and there’s a sense that you are enveloped by the hotel the moment you walk in.”
So how did he decide on the look and feel of the Firehouse? “It’s very much like producing a movie,” he explains. “We find a story and start building a narrative together. There is no set formula we work to.” Balazs was smitten with the building’s fire station past and invited the former fire chief to see all the changes. “He burst into tears, he was so moved by what we had done. It was really touching,” he says. The chief told Balazs that the station had been home to some of the firemen and their families. “So I tried to imagine the young wife of one of these firemen moving into a room here and what she would have done to give it a feminine touch,” says Balazs explaining the just-pink walls in the hotel’s bedrooms.
“This is what I find most spectacular,” says Balazs warming to his theme and turning in his wicker patio chair to point out the putty yellow distressed wall at the far end of the bar. “If that’s the wall colour then how do you preserve that?” He shares how the original colour of the fire station walls inspired the warm tones of honey, pink and gold on the ground floor. And then he points out the large, wall-mounted artwork made from rows of fire hoses by the Chicago-based artist, Theaster Gates. “We commissioned the piece especially for the Firehouse,” he says. “The artist’s father was a fireman himself. These are the millions of small touches that all together make this place so special.”
I love Chiltern Street because of the randomness of the shops. When I walk out of the Firehouse I see Marios the barbershop and Sandeep’s newsagent. It has a wonderful charm and, importantly for me, it is not a thoroughfare.ANDRÉ BALAZS
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0601 Monkfish cooked over pine puffed barley & fennel 02 Chiltern Firehouse Restaurant
03 Steak salad04 André Balazs05 Lobby06 Hotel RoomImages by Tim Clinch
Chiltern Firehouse1 Chiltern Street, W1U 7PAwww.chilternfirehouse.com
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INTERNATIONAL FLAVOURS
Eating and drinking on Chiltern Street ranges from the homely to the exquisite. From pastries and cake to noodles and iced tea, there is something for all palates.
With the diversity of shops on Chiltern Street, it is a happy coincidence the food and drink on and near the street is varied too, drawing on a range of international flavours. The Chiltern Firehouse (1 Chiltern Street), serves breakfast, lunch and dinner featuring Michelin starred chef Nuno Mendes’ North American-accented flavours. These even run through to his breakfast menu with treats such as crab omelette and buttermilk pancakes with blueberries and maple créme fraîche.
From the former fire carriage entrances that open straight onto the street, the Chiltern Firehouses’s restaurant gives its guests a perfect street-gazing perch. Around the corner, The Nordic Bakery
(48 Dorset Street), in the lead up to Cinnamon Bun Day on 4th October (a Scandinavian celebration of this breakfast favourite), is creating limited edition bun recipes. New flavours for this breakfast time classic are likely to include custard and almonds, raisins and lemon glaze and blueberries. The Chiltern Rooms (27 Chiltern Street), who serve the most delicious Portuguese custard tarts, is popular with the residents and local businesses for a quick bite, with their tempting selection of Paninis, sandwiches, salads and hot food to go.
Further along Dorset Street, Hardy’s Brasserie and Wine Bar (53 Dorset Street) offers more familiar British delicacies such as shepherd’s pie and peas, and beer battered fish and chips with pea puree. But it is the chefs at Monocle Café (18 Chiltern Street) who make the most conscious stab at putting the world on your plate. Choose from Indian chicken curry, Danish hot dog or the Veneto sandwich alongside other global treats in this relaxed haven.
01 Nordic Bakery02 Hardy’s Brasserie
03 Monocle Café by Monocle
CHILTERN STREET MAGAZINE
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Monocle Café18 Chiltern Street, W1U 7QAwww.cafe.monocle.com
Nordic Bakery48 Dorset Street, W1G 8JRwww.nordicbakery.com
Hardy’s Brasserie and Wine Bar 53 Dorset Street, W1U 7NHwww.hardybrasserie.co.uk
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05CHILTERN STREET MAGAZINE
SETTING UP SHOP
Meet the original minds behind two of Chiltern Street’s most unique businesses: holistic beautician Bharti Vyas and Atlas Gallery director, Ben Burdett.
CREATIVE MINDS
Heritage Stores New on the street Specialist Stores Jewellery Editors Picks DirectoryShop Design Profiles MapStore FeatureFood and drink
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What I love most about Chiltern Street is its long association with fashion. It’s also appealing to me that it has become a street of independent businesses.BEN BURDETT
What I love most about Chiltern Street are the people who come here!BHARTI VYAS
To find a beauty therapist and an art gallery on a shopping street in central London is hardly news. But on Chiltern Street that beautician is Bharti Vyas (5 & 24 Chiltern Street), a woman who pretty much invented the idea that beauty is always about the whole person. She is far less concerned about what moisturiser you use (although she also does a great line in her own products), than how you manage stress and how well you sleep, for instance. It should come as no surprise that the Bharti Vyas clinic has more the aura of a wellbeing sanctuary than a beauty salon.
Aromatherapist, acupuncturist, ayurvedic, magnet and laser therapist, Vyas has been instrumental in transforming the kinds of treatments offered by many beauty salons today by developing an influential, holistic approach to looking good. When Vyas eulogises about her powerful and convincing approach to beauty and wellbeing, something as prosaic as how open or closed ones pores might be, begins to seem very superficial indeed. “I cannot sell beauty by the pot,” says Vyas, 70, who is startlingly vigorous and fortunately blessed with the sort of soothing hands that could melt stone. “I’ve written eight books. My approach combines the best in eastern and western knowledge and understanding of beauty”.
The eastern approach used by Vyas might include acupressure and lymphatic drainage which detoxify and heal the body while the western approach might be the use of radio frequency treatments which heat the skin’s epidermis to promote greater production of skin plumping collagen and elastin. But it is in the initial consultation where in-depth questions about family health, allergies and illness are gently probed and questioned that the sensitivity for the client’s wellbeing comes most obviously to the fore. For Vyas, it’s looking after one’s inner self alongside getting enough sleep, water and exercise which is fundamental to looking good.
ATLAS gallery (49 Dorset Street), which sits on the corner of Chiltern Street and Dorset Street is one of London’s 24 fine photography galleries. Under the directorship of Ben Burdett, the gallery mounts about six exhibitions a year. The gallery moved to the corner of Chiltern Street from Hoxton over ten years ago, and from 2005 ATLAS gallery became the official gallery agent of Magnum Photos in the UK. In 2012 it launched ATLAS Contemporary to showcase young to mid career art photographers to the London art scene. “We represent many different photographers,”says Burdett. “We sell vintage photographer’s prints as well as contemporary photography from photo journalists and fashion photographers.”
A highlight for Burdett was the Man Ray exhibition the gallery mounted in 2013. “We sold a single collection of 170 photographs to one buyer,” he says with satisfaction. But he is also looking forward to September’s exhibition of Jimmy Nelson’s work called “Before they Pass Away”. This is an ongoing project (which began five years ago) to photograph the world’s rapidly disappearing indigenous people. It is an exhibition that is likely to provoke huge interest. It will run for seven weeks from September 25th.
01 Bharti Vyas02 Bharti Vyas products
04 Altantsogts, Bayan Olgii, March 2011, ‘Before they Pass’, Atlas Gallery by Jimmy Nelson Pictures BV
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Bharti Vyas 24 Chiltern Street, W1U 7QEwww.bharti-vyas.com
Atlas Gallery 49 Dorset Street, W1U 7NFwww.atlasgallery.com
03 Ben Burdett
05 Gisborne Festival, North Island, January 2011, ‘Before they Pass away’, Atlas Gallery, by Jimmy Nelson Pictures BV
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SPECIAL FORCES
In close proximity to the Royal Academy of Music on Marylebone Road, Chiltern Street is home to specialist music shops selling anything from early western instruments to recorders.
Howarths of London (31-37 Chiltern Street) sells oboes, saxophones and bassoons. It has been on Chiltern Street since 1968. The shop is the retail arm of the company with its own oboe-making factory in Worthing, West Sussex. “We have six testing rooms in the basement,” says Camilla Clark, the shop’s oboe specialist. “Sometimes our customers use them just to practice,” she adds with a conspiratorial air. Howarths has everything an oboe player could ever want from a repair service, reeds and sheet music. It sells and hires instruments to children who are taking their first lessons as well as the world’s finest players. Business is brisk as oboes need to be replaced every five to ten years, says Clark.
06CHILTERN STREET MAGAZINE
JAS Musicals (14 Chiltern Street) is an Indian instrument shop. Its owner, Harjit Shah, sends prototypes for new instruments to his factory in India who make his drums, sitars (a stringed instrument plucked like a guitar), harmoniums (an accordion-like instrument) and sarangis (a bowed, stringed instrument). “I was great friends with Richard Woods who owned the early music shop which was here before me,”says Shah.“When Richard retired he suggested I take over his shop. And I’ve never looked back!” Shah claims JAS Musicals is the only Indian instrument shop in central London and the only shop in Europe to make its own instruments. Shah is currently renovating his basement to offer a space for his customers to practice and play.
Across the road at Claude Gallery antique shop (16 Chiltern Street), they sell competitively priced antiques, with a nineteenth century dining chair, for
Chiltern Street has four one-of-a-kind shops which offer products and services that are impossible to find almost anywhere else.
01 Howarth London02 Cadenheads03 JAS
04 JAS by Tom Griffiths05 Cadenheads06 Claude Gallery
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CHILTERN STREET SPECIALIST
Heritage Stores New on the street Specialist Stores Jewellery Editors Picks DirectoryShop Design Profiles MapStore FeatureFood and drink
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example, selling for as little as £60. “£2,000 is about the top price for any of our pieces,” says Claude Kearley, who has been running his shop on Chiltern Street since the early 1970s. Claude Gallery also offers repairs, upholstery and picture framing. But what makes this shop unique is its original illustrations particularly those by childrens’ book illustrators. These include pictures by Charles Keeping who famously illustrated the complete works of Charles Dickens for the Folio Society.
Cadenhead’s, the whisky shop and tasting room (26 Chiltern Street) moved to Chiltern Street from Covent Garden. “We moved the day the banks crashed in 2008,” says manager Steve Worrall. Since 1842 the Cadenhead family have been distilling and bottling whisky, an increasingly rare activity for a family-run business in Scotland. There is no addition of colour or filtration used in their bottling. Cadenhead’s has been voted one of the top five whisky tasting rooms in London. The current jewel in Cadenhead’s crown is a 48-year-old Speyside Glen Rossy. Yours for £380.
What I like most about Chiltern Street is its friendly atmosphere. I also love that almost everyone who comes into our shop doesn’t leave without buying something!CLAUDE KEARLEY
What I love most about Chiltern Street is the decency of the people. We see so many music lovers here.HARJIT SHAH
The things I love most about Chiltern Street are all the different shop fronts and the fact that everything is on your doorstep in this part of town. I even love the red bricks of the mansion blocks above all the shops. They tell me I’m on Chiltern Street.CAMILLA CLARK
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Cadenhead’s Whisky Shop and Tasting Room26 Chiltern Street, W1U 7QBwww.whiskytastingroom.com
JAS Musicals 14 Chiltern Street, W1U 7PYwww.jas-musicals.com
Claude Gallery16 Chiltern Street, W1U 7PZwww.claudegallery.com
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Heritage Stores New on the street Specialist Stores Jewellery Editors Picks DirectoryShop Design Profiles MapStore FeatureFood and drink
07CHILTERN STREET MAGAZINE
ONE OF A KIND
It takes creativity and determination to open your own shop. Two of Chiltern Street’s most individual retailers tell their stories.
There was a time not so long ago when to be an independent shop meant struggling on the margins of the retail world. High street chains and department stores often offer more brands at better prices than many sole traders. Yet it’s this very independence of spirit and a plucky ‘I’ll show you’ attitude that encourages savvy shoppers to seek out the unique products and personal service that only independents offer. In a world of global brands and product homogeneity, it’s the small, one-of-a-kind and local shop that is setting the retail pace. Such an independent spirit is part of the DNA of both Trunk and Pauline Burrows on Chiltern Street.
“My regular customers get to know me by name,” says Mats Klingberg, the owner of menswear boutiques Trunk Clothiers and Trunk Labs (8
and 34 Chiltern Street). “How rare is it to actually know the owner of a favourite shop!” he adds with a smile. Klingberg is pointing out his favourite brands in his two shops – Trunk Clothiers which sells big-ticket menswear clothing, and Trunk Labs (Labs is an acronym for luggage, accessories, bags and shoes). This space feels like a perfectly curated stylish gent’s wardrobe.
With between 80 and 100 different brands stocked between his two shops, Klingsberg is initially stumped to narrow down his favourite items. “Our Incotex chinos sell very well. Hold them up and they look pretty much like any other brand of chinos,” he says, “but pull them on and they have this great cut and are much more comfortable than you would expect.” To show that every price point and budget is catered for, Klingberg points out the mini lavender bags he has made up specially for his shop by Welsh artisans, “they’re just perfect for putting in your suitcase when you travel,” he says with the certainty of a man who knows.
I love Chiltern Street because of the atmosphere. I love the mix of independent shops, and people know each other and look after each other. I wave and say hi to everyone.MATS KLINGBERG
01 - 03 Trunk 04 - 05 Pauline Burrows
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FOUNDERS IN FASHION
06 Pauline Burrowsimage by Rosalind Hobley
Claude Gallery16 Chiltern Street, W1U 7PZwww.claudegallery.co.uk
Pauline Burrows50 Chiltern Street, W1U 7QTwww.paulineburrows.com
Trunk Clothiers8 Chiltern Street, W1U 7PUwww.trunkclothiers.com
Trunk LABS34 Chiltern Street, W1U 7QH
17—AUTUMN / WINTER 2014
What I love most about Chiltern Street is the vibe. I just love it. It’s worked out really well for me to be here. The street has a great atmosphere.PAULINE BURROWS
Pauline Burrows (50 Chiltern Street) started her career making men’s shirts. These are still the core of her business, although she has now branched into womenswear too. “We make all our clothes here beneath the shop,” says the sparkly eyed Burrows with obvious pride. This makes this retail space not merely a shop, but an artisan workspace too. It is this unique aspect, knowing that your shirt was designed, cut and sewn on the premises that make shopping at a place like Pauline Burrows so special. “We used to wholesale the collection to other boutiques,” says Burrows, “but now we only sell from our shop.”
Burrows lifts an iridescent green man’s shirt from the rail and points out the subtle frayed edging that runs down the front parallel to the buttons. “This detailing is a signature of ours,” she explains. “The fraying is all done by hand.”
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Kohatu + PetrosNecklace, Moss Agate Fringe Pendant, £229
08CHILTERN STREET MAGAZINE
JEWELLERY EDIT
MODERN METALLICA
The sharpest jewellery on Chiltern Street this autumn is graphic and understated. From single gem rings to cut-out bangles, jewellery this season is a elegantly pared back as a Céline clutch.
Mouki Mou, JEM (left to right) Bracelets, £12,900, £3,365, £4,470, £4,840 Rings, £1,935, £845, £615
Kohatu + Petros Necklace, Silver Geometric Pendant £199
Mouki Mou, Fay Andrada Earrings, £165
Kohatu + PetrosEarrings, Gold Verona and Freshwater Pearl, £99
Cox + Power Togetherness Rings from £400Interlocking Hidden Ring, £1,950Rose Gold Orbital Ring with 26 Diamonds, £2,450
Cox & Power image by Nick White
Cox & Power12 Chiltern StreetW1U 7PXwww.coxandpower.com
Mouki Mou 29 Chiltern StreetW1U 7PLwww.mouki-london.com
Kohatu + Petros58 Chiltern StreetW1U 7QZwww.kohatuandpetros.com
Heritage Stores New on the street Specialist Stores Jewellery Editors Picks DirectoryShop Design Profiles MapStore FeatureFood and drink
19—AUTUMN / WINTER 2014
09CHILTERN STREET MAGAZINE
EDITOR’S SELECTION
THE SELECT FEW
Chiltern Street Magazine editor, David Waters, selects his favourite casually smart menswear pieces from Chiltern Street’s best boutiques.
John SimonsSpellbanel Japan jacket, £250
PRISMHavana in brown mother of pearl (unisex), £270
Pauline BurrowsJackets from £495.00-£2,500. Shirts from £195-£325
TrunkSalvatore piccolo chambray shirt in blue, £195
TrunkBarena cotton Rampin trousers in khaki, £160
TrunkBarena Slanega jacket in navy, £350
General LeatherNappa leather Puffa jacket, £925
General LeatherNappa leather bike jacket with shearling collar, £795
Grey FlannelGiorgio Armani jacket, £650. Scarf is Grey Flannel’s own collection, £79.50
19—AUTUMN / WINTER 2014
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PRISM54 Chiltern StreetW1U 7QXwww.prismlondon.com
Grey Flannel 7-9 Chiltern StreetW1U 7PEwww.greyflannel-london.com
John Simons46 Chiltern StreetW1U 7QRwww.johnsimons.co.uk
Pauline Burrows50 Chiltern StreetW1U 7QTwww.paulineburrows.com
Trunk8 Chiltern StreetW1U 7PUwww.trunkclothiers.com
General Leather Company56 Chiltern Streetwww.generalleather.co.uk
20—AUTUMN / WINTER 2014
BLANDFORD STREET
CHILTER
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DORSET STREET
STORES AND RESTAURANTSTO BAKER STREET STATIONN
Chiltern Firehouse André Balazs Hotel+44 (0)20 7073 7676
Howarth of London Music shop+44 (0)20 7935 2407
Archer Adams Menswear+44 (0)20 7935 3582
Room Thirty Two Hair salon+44 (0)20 7935 3550
Elizabeth Todd Bridalwear+44 (0)20 7224 2773
Trunk LABS Mens accessories+44 (0)20 7486 2357
Mario’s Barber Shop+44 (0)20 7486 8908
Cire Trudon Candle shop+44 (0)20 7486 7590
Bharti Vyas Beauty Salon+44 (0)20 7486 7910
By Appointment Only Event Design+44 (0)20 7486 7870
Shreeji Newsagent+44 (0)20 7935 5055
Totally Shoes+44 (0)20 7486 8815
Grey Flannel Menswear+44 (0)20 7935 4067
Sahara Womenswear+44 (0)20 7935 8990
Trunk Menswear+44 (0)20 7486 2357
Magnus Shoes+44 (0)20 7224 3938
Cox & Power Jewellery+44 (0)20 7935 3530
Cox & Power Jewellery+44 (0)20 7935 3530
John Simons Menswear+44 (0)20 3490 2729
Sunspel Menswear+44 (0)20 7009 0650
Sunspel Womenswear+44 (0)20 7009 0650
White Rose Laundries+44 (0)20 7224 2110
Jas Musicals Music shop+44 (0)20 7935 0793
Nordic Bakery +44 (0)20 7935 3590
Claude Gallery Antiques+44 (0)20 7935 9550
ATLAS Gallery+44 (0)20 7224 4192
Stephanie Allin Bridalwear+44 (0)20 7486 7310
Pauline Burrows Mens / womenswear+44 (0)20 7487 4437
Monocle Café+44 (0)20 7135 2040
Adatto Interior design+44 (0)20 7711 069494
Long Tall Sally Womenswear+44 (0)20 7487 3370
Herbal Wang Alternative therapy+44 (0)20 7224 7225
Bridal Rogue Gallery Bridalwear+44 (0)20 7224 7414
PRISM sunglasses and swimwear+44 (0)20 7935 5407
Bharti Vyas Beauty Salon+44 (0)20 7486 7910
Hardy’sBrasserie & Wine Bar +44 (0)20 7935 5929
Cadenheads Whisky shop and tasting room+44 (0)20 7935 6999
General Leather Company Mens / womenswear+44 (0)20 7935 1041
Chiltern Rooms Café+44 (0)20 7935 2911
Kohatu + Petros Jewellery+44 (0)20 7486 7737
Crispins Shoes+44 (0)20 7486 8924
West One Beauty Salon+44 (0)20 7486 1415
Mouki Mou Womens concept store+44 (0)20 7224 4010
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Heritage Stores New on the street Specialist Stores Jewellery Editors Picks DirectoryShop Design Profiles MapStore FeatureFood and drink
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