hoover institution archives: the diaries of general joseph w. … · 2020. 1. 21. · papers to...

1922 Sun Jan 1: At home all day. Horsfalls called – P.M. to Peking Hotel to hear the music. Mail from home. Win’s stuff arrived at S’cuse. No word from Yonkers. Mon Jan 2: Last day of vacation. Worked on Joe. Saw Strong @ exam; the boys had squealed to him & made him think it was “unfair”. Tues Jan 3: School again. Did not go back in P.M. Worked on Joe. Win to hair-dresser. Wed Jan 4: More talk with Strong. Told him plainly how things stood. He promised to send papers to Fenn at once. Thurs Jan 5: Had to write a long letter to Fenn, who, it seems, didn’t understand the instructors’ marks, and I don’t wonder. School all day. Tenney acknowledged having been to Strong. Fisken also. Fri Jan 6: Got the papers at last – (90.7% 90 – 86 – 80.) absurd marks, but all we can expect under the circumstances. Win considerably better. Not coughing so much. Sat Jan 7: Joe & I walked all around the walls with Flip. 14 miles. Joe stuck it out in great shape, & insisted on going the whole way. 8:20 to 1:30 with only 2 short rests. P.M. nap. Sun Jan 8: Package from Pep yesterday – clock for Win & flask for me. Beautiful things. Win went to see Helen & Jo Tenney. Movies in evening; a bum vaudeville stunt. Mon Jan 9: School. Win in bed with neuralgia. High wind. Tues Jan 10: Win got a shampoo. Feeling a little better. Cold weather. Wed Jan 11: P.M. dinner at Philoons’. Cheneys, Pecks, Tambruns, Holt, Magruder. Rather deadly. Peck & his Geo. Washington story. Back at midnight. Cold. – (Wu P’ei Fu tells the world Liang Shih Yi is a traitor – Gave in to Japs on Shantung.) Thurs Jan 12: P.M. tea at Dr. Smith’s. Kids all went & had a fine time with the birds, rabbits etc. Win to tiffin at Josselyns’. Fri Jan 13: Cut school in P.M. & worked with Joe. Went down to tea at Ministers’. Good eats, but very few people there. Very cold weather – about zero. After supper, saw Charlie Chapin in the “Idle Class”. Sat Jan 14: To bank with Horsfalls. Then to Pei T’ang & back to St. Michel Hospital looking for laces etc. Got soap etc. at P. Ex. & & home at 12:30. Very cold. Sun Jan 15: Home all day. Still cold. Win has a stitch. Went to Smith’s & borrowed books.

Hoover Institution Archives: The Diaries of General Joseph W. Stilwell. Copyrighted Material 2012

Copyrighted Material Copyrighted Material

Mon Jan 16: School as usual. Win to barber’s & lunch at Mrs. Williams. Tues Jan 17: Win to barber’s. Wed Jan 18: Helen called. L.P. & I took tutors out for chow at Fu Shou T’ang. Fine chow. Thurs Jan 19: Stayed home in P.M. to catch up on correspondence etc. Woodbridge called; up from Pao Ting Fu. Win & kids to Dunlaps to tea. Fri Jan 20: Usual day. Sat Jan 21: Around home all day. Sun Jan 22: All hands walked on the wall to S.E. corner. Very windy. I went on to Furniture St. & got Win a desk & low stand. ($30.00) – Held up by a funeral. Mon Jan 23: School. As usual. Exchange still hanging at 179+, – months now. Tues Jan 24: Getting ready for the Warners. Win got a crib from Tuttles. P.M. cut school. Tea at Arnolds’. Numerous chinks, mostly from Commun. bureau. Wed Jan 25: Telegram from Warners, undelivered by the great M.A.’s office. Coming in P.M. Went to train in taxi – train 1 hr. late. Back again at 6, & just caught them. Thurs Jan 26: Vacation for chino New Year. P.M. dinner, Dr. & Mrs. Smith, Warners, & L.P., – Helen sick. Mrs. Smith sat till 11:30 & finally L.P. broke it up. Fri Jan 27: Dinner at Horsfalls. Left early. Warners enjoying themselves. Win & I shopped in the A.M. Got candle lamps. Bought stuff in Tung An Shih Ch’ang for the instructors & Liu’s kids. – Sent Ch’en out for fire-works that Joe & I located yesterday. Sat Jan 28: Chinese New Years. The usual handout to all servants – ½ mo. pay. Warners left on 11 A.M. train. Some doubt about their getting it. Peace reigns. Sun Jan 29: Horsfalls over in A.M. Around house all day. (Now Liu has a dose – swears, of course, he has nothing.) Mon Jan 30: Liu has it. Flip got out & nearly killed a cat before I pulled him off. Win to Kroners’ for tea. P.M. to American Legion dinner & dance. – Go as you please affair. Tenney elected. The guests of honor almost swept up by the waiters. Tues Jan 31: The upset. Win takes the Tenney baby – Mrs. Tenney goes to the hospital. Joe & Nance to the Horsfalls. – The Warners come back & go to the Tenneys. Went to Ch’ien Mên to meet them, & they’d gotten off at 東便門 (T’ung Pien Men – East Side Door). – Caught them at our front gate. Stayed home in P.M. to help get things straight.



Wed Feb 1: Win busy with the two babies. Horsfalls brought our kids over to “call” in P.M. They are thrilled with the visit Thurs Feb 2: Two babies = 1 night. When one isn’t going, the other is. In P.M. Win got Helen to come over & went down to the dressmaker’s to help Mrs. Warner. Kids “called”. Fri Feb 3: Hospital suddenly decides to let baby go over, so Tenney gets it at noon. Relief. Win walked down to school & pulled me out about 3 P.M. Mix-up on Ch’ên taking Mrs. Warner’s clothes to Tientsin. The fool Chang Kuei ti sent them to the house at 4:30! Sat Feb 4: A.M. to Liu Li Ch’ang with Horsfalls. Very interesting – dickered around & got some ivory & some wooden beads. Back at 1:30. P.M. at home. Doot has bad cold & quite a fever. Chotch also peevish. Sun Feb 5: AL is 1 year old. (Ch’ên back in A.M. Warners weren’t at address given & he had to chase all over Tientsin looking for the idiots. Typical missionary stuff.) Mon Feb 6: Al & Doot sick. Colds & fever Sore throats – coughing. Hell to pay. Tues Feb 7: Dr. Krieg came, (Bottle in return story.) Advocates sun baths on chests. Thinks Joe is a “perfect gentleman”. Joe ready to sink thro. the floor. Wed Feb 8: Kids still feverish. Doot’s fever up again. Thurs Feb 9: The kids a little better. Went to Liu Li Ch’ang in P.M. & got some ivory boxes etc. Prices still high. Fri Feb 10: Petro for lunch. Dust storm. Mrs. Calhoun, looked over the house in P.M.; didn’t impress us over-much. Win to Shumakers’ & called on Mrs. Tenney. Stayed home in P.M. Pep’s toys came in P.M., great excitement. Meccano, dolls, dolls’ carriages, bunny, Humpty Dumpty, etc. A monster box. Kreig came in & pronounced the kids much better. Sat Feb 11: Dust storm. A.M. to bank and saw Cheney @ going away, etc. Also book allowances. Tiffin at Sullivans! (Fr Littles from Tientsin.) Tea for same at Horsfalls – Nelues there. Also Swinks, Woodbridge, etc. Sun Feb 12: Home all day. Arith. Win called at Tenneys. Kids much improved. Mon Feb 13: Al slept till 4:30 A.M. Doot up again, O.K. Win to mother’s meeting, – a joke. Landlady wants to borrow dough. Ch’ên got the bugs. Tues Feb 14: We sat up till 12 reading the “House of Intrigue”. Wed Feb 15:



Thurs Feb 16: Slept in P.M., preparing for the Bachelor’s Ball, which comes off tomorrow night, poor fellow. Fri Feb 17: The Bachelor’s Ball finally came off. We had Horsfalls for dinner & left about 10:15. The expected assortment of muts. Mrs. Philoon undertook to give me a lesson or two in manners. We left about 12:30, thank God. – Had some good dances with Win. Sat Feb 18: Went to Silver St. & picked up some dew dabs. Held up by Sister Catherine on the street. All she needs is a pistol. Sun Feb 19: We read Kimono. P.M. Horsfalls took Win & Doot to T’ung Chow. Mrs. Tenney called. Mon Feb 20: Started 8 A.M. school. (8:00 to 12:30 & no P.M. work.) Yin sick – an old hernia. Read Kimono till 11. Tues Feb 21: Snowing. Note from Edwards ref. project in Shensi. Yin better, Ch’ên sick. Called in Dr. Ch’ên. Took Ch’ên to Yü Wang Fu. They operated at 8:30. Appendicitis & peritonitis. Wed Feb 22: Washington’s birthday. Horsfall didn’t show up. Started the snotties’ exam. Looked up Krig at German hospital. Went to see Ch’ên; resting easy – have to drain him. P.M. kids to Smiths’ to a party. Thurs Feb 23: Snotties exam continued. (They thought I meant to go on & do the whole works!) Got a haircut & saw Gailey, who roots loudly for Gen. Fêng, the “Christian” general. All sorts of schemes up his sleeve. P.M. to dinner at the Smiths’. Fri Feb 24: Snotties’ exam finished. P.M. with Win to hospital – saw Ch’ên. Took in some gewgaws for the kids in the ward. Ch’ên’s family here to-day. He didn’t want them to come in & see him. To Indian silk store & home. Sat Feb 25: High wind. Win to Legation, Sister Catherine (out) etc. P.M. Wang the landlord came. Also Gailey. Sun Feb 26: In all A.M. Wang called & sprang the great embezzlement case. Ch’ên apparently cashed the checks & stole the money. – New boy (Chao) came. – P.M. Tenneys called. (Tenney apologized for his childishness at exam time.) To Kroners’ for tea. Mon Feb 27: Dad’s 500 check came – Banked it. Saw Philoon. School. P.M. Gailey came in again. (Horsfall was here but beat it.) Arranged to see Wu Tues. P.M. Tues. Feb 28: To Cheneys, & out to see 13th Div. review at Hsi Yüan. Joffre looked very tired. Plenty of pep, though. I pooped all around taking pictures. Chinos did pretty well – goose-step was a scream. Came back at 10:30 after champagne & sandwiches. P.M. Saw Gailey & Wu &



then went to hospital. Ch’ên confessed the whole works & had a story about a Shanghai friend who needed money. Says he can return it as soon as he gets out. Wed Mar 1: School. Horsfalls says “Let Kuan hustle around & get a job, then”. Short walk in P.M. with Win, to tell Horsfalls not going out tonight. Exchange 194. Thurs Mar 2: School. Tiffin at Ruddocks’. The Collins (retired jute dealers) only guests. Win sent for Chi & Ma to go to hotel. – Collins apparently buying anything at any price. Fri Mar 3: Drizzly. Yin operated on yesterday. P.M. worked by myself. P.M. got ready for photog. who didn’t show up. 5 P.M. to Peking Hotel to Anglo-Am. Assn. reception to Joffre. Butted in with the West Point picture of the kids & in bum French asked Joffre if we could see him Sunday. He asked if the kids were at the hotel & seemed disappointed. Made a date for Sunday – He remembered the W.P. incident well. Asked about my D.S.M. & said he had one like it. (It was a special medal of diff design & colored ribbon.) I didn’t recognize it & he said Pershing gave it to him & he didn’t think P. had fooled him. – We danced & bummed around. (Bought the porcelain screen.) Had dinner with the Collins. Mr. C. bought Clos de Vougeot till our heads swam & we all began to cackle. – Went to the Peking Pavilion & saw a good vaudeville show. – “The Quaints.” – Home at midnight. Sat Mar 4: Went to Hartung’s, & bank & bought in before the rate changed – (196.42). Rumors of a big drop. – Chiang Kuei Ti’s funeral on Hatamen, – we all took it in. The biggest thing since Yuan Shih K’ai. Terrible jam in all the streets. Held up 40 minutes at Nei Wu Pu. – P.M. photographer came and shot us in the ke t’ing. – Win went to Fiskens with Al. – After chow went to Horsfalls’ & down to see the Quaints. A fine show again. Sun Mar 5: A.M. to Ssü P’ai Lou about porcelain screen. Dealer said more than $100. – To Tung An Shih Ch’ang for apples, walnuts, etc. Got Joe a battery. – Had lunch at 12:15 due to note from Ruddock that Joffre would receive Am. children at 1 P.M. A rush to get ready. About 50 kids – assorted sizes & looks – saw Joffre for a minute. We waited, but Mrs. Peck had balled it up & Joffre left for the other rooms. We waited at Pecks till 2:30 & then I jammed my way in at the Minister’s house. Finally we caught Joffre & the kids saw him by themselves. All much thrilled. All sounded off Vive la France, Papa Joffre. We got back at 3:30, exhausted. Got ready for the dinner. Cheneys, Sullivans, Horsfalls & Collins. (The old commodore of the Larchmont Yacht Club). He sent the Burgundy, & also bought Lang Tang. We had the shadow pictures, a very clever performance with translucent leather figures. They had their own orchestra & raised hell till we stopped them. Lang Tang was good, too. We turned in at midnight. Mon Mar 6: Joe’s 10th birthday. I got up at 9:30, feeling like the wrath of God. Win was still at the wheel, going it. Cut school. – Win to hairdresser & hospital. Had supper at Horsfalls. Ma came; Win sold $90 worth of stuff for him Sunday night. Tues. Mar 7: Exam all A.M. 4th book of Kuan Hua till 1 P.M. P.M. at home. Evening concert – on 三(san) Tiao Hutung. All Boche & high brow music. The crowd of half-baked music “lovers” applauded ferociously.



Wed Mar 8: School. Lunch at the Cheneys’. Win sat next to L.P., and I sat next to Mrs. Prick. My Gawd, it’s Fate. Mrs. Cheney says the place for the marriage certificate is over the bed. Prodded Peck about Mao’s case, & afterward sent him a note. Wrote letters. Thurs Mar 9: School till 10 – then to bank, P.O., & hospital, & druggist. Saw Kreig who peered up my bum & announced “eczema.” P.M. With Horsfalls to Western Hills & Kau Lu Hotel – a beautiful spot, like a Jap temple. Steep hill-side with big trees & long view. Back at six. A beautiful day & ride. Worked with Joe till 9:10 P.M. on arithmetic. Finished the 2nd book. Joe tickled. Fri Mar 10: Nance & Joe up at 6:30 playing chess! Exam on k’ô p’ieu 子’s (Tzu). Went to Yü Wang Fu and saw Ch’ên and Yin. Collected 70 beans. P.M. Horsfalls for tea. L.P.’s 41st birthday. Holiday for Joe. Sat Mar 11: A.M. errands in town – P.M. magician for kids. – Damaris & Smith kid. L.P. over. Saw Cheney @ money, etc. Sun Mar 12: A.M. around house, writing. P.M. with Horsfalls to Western Hills. Walked up & saw Pecks’ temple. Then to Purple Cloud Temple (Pi Yün Ssü) & Jade Fountain, where we pretended to know no Chinese, & dodged the flock of “guides”. On to Ch’ing Hua & back in. A fine afternoon’s trip. Mon Mar 13: School. Told the boys about exam. Win took kids down for vaccinations, & in P.M. went to mothers’ meeting. Mild weather. Tues Mar 14: School. To hospital, & had to wait till noon. Got something for Win. Wed Mar 15: To office about accounts etc. Saw Holden at Standard Oil about maps. Registered cable address. Various small errands. Boned tzu in evening. Thurs Mar 16: Exam on 600 tzu book. Punk performance. (The old tzu specker missed quite a few. Allows he’ll have to study some.) Dust storm. Helen & L.P. over. Nap. Win went out to Hataman shopping. Fri Mar 17: Exam. for the snotties. Went to Women’s Exchange with Win. P.M. Hair-cut, bought supplies & saw Chin. Dust storm. Cable. L.M.S. Sat Mar 18: Errands in town. S.O., hotel, barber, bought books, M.A. office, bank, Y.M.C.A., Strong etc., etc. P.M. with Horsfalls to Chin Shan and Pei Hai. – beautiful afternoon. Gailey came in with R.R. passes. Sun Mar 19: 39 years old. A.M. dubbed around. Birthday dinner – cake with 壽比南山 (shou pi nan shan – Life as Long as the Southern Mountains) on it. P.M. dust storm & high wind. Rotten weather.



Mon Mar 20: With Joe to Yü Wang Fu @ vaccination. Ch’ên discharged. I did errands – hospital – Djang – Faxon – etc. etc. Home late – Win down for hair-dressing. P.M. dinner for Mrs. Tenney & Burnell & Horsfalls. Tues Mar 21: Finally got instruments from J.C. Ho, the R.R. man. Got 140 beans’ worth of chow from Shang Tai Ye. A.M. to Legation, drugstore, Hartungs, Faxon, etc. etc. P.M. Win down for hair treatment. Met her at T’ai’s, & went up to Ssü P’ai Lou silk store. Decided to leave Friday. Wed Mar 22: (Took naps in P.M.) All A.M. looked over stuff to send to U.S. Packed up toys, etc., etc. To Horsfalls in evening – punk dinner – enormous rolls & coarse chow. Back at 10. An inch of snow to-day, & real winter weather. Thurs Mar 23: A.M. worked on article for “Asia” – Same in P.M. At 3 went to town with Win, – Indian store, M.A.’s office, etc. Finished article in evening. Ch’ên’s father in to thank us. Chao bought kitchen stuff. Shang T’ai Ye’s stuff came – Instruments came. – Travel money came. Fri Mar 24: Left at 9 – with Chao Ch’in to station. Mao later. Sat Mar 25: Mao on with Wang at Shih Jia Chuang. Fine weather. A Jap-Chink in our compartment. Speaks French well. Slept all A.M. Chao served me & the instr. together at breakfast – must see @ this. Fooling with the soldiers – (“see his big strong shoes” “is this a good gun”) etc. Jap got off at 1:30 – ate up Shai’s present of chow. Reached Chêng Chow at 10:20 – stayed over night (Mao said singsong girls afraid of me!) Blew up Chao on the train. Sun Mar 26: Early at station, usual crowd. The big men gathered to see someone off. Busted in to a 1st cl. comp. Everything else jammed. The great men quite affable after I got in & consolidated my position at the window. Mao told them who I was – fully. It was the usual affair – 6 or 8 got in to hold the whole compartment for one man. Lo Yang at 2. The gt. man got off. (Former civ. gov. of Anhui). Wu P’ei Fu’s barracks west of town – appar. @ 20,000 men. Kuan Yin T’ang @ 6 P.M. pres. terminus. Hotels full. Got a place & turned in. A mgr. looked me up & got 2 carts & 2 chia’sh. Mon Mar 27: Jumbo’s birthday. K.Y.T. has broken out in a violent attack of business – mostly cigarettes – frontier town of shacks with everything conceivable on sale. Left at 8. Just out of town my bloody Kan la tze ti said the stern mule was off color & that I’d have to move up toward the bow or walk. I cursed him black & blue for bringing out a bum mule, but what’s the use. The convoy had been waiting for hours, & a spry little 1st Lt., as soon as I arrived, started ’em off. 49’ers going to Cal. Carts, camels, pack animals, wheelbarrows, under power fore & aft., kids running back & forth – it looked like the flight of the Kalmucks. Slow pace – horrible road & traffic from opp. direction – mostly wheelbarrows of cotton. A constant succession of struggles between straining, sweating chinks & their unwieldy machines & unwilling beasts. Babies tied on the side of wheelbarrows, the mother sitting opp. & the father pushing, perhaps one or 2 little shavers out in front pulling. Beggars lying in the road with one eye peeled for passing cartwheels & horses hoofs. Cracking of whips, yelling of chinks, an occasional jaw-



fight while the traffic just stops and waits for them to get thro. “Cattle!” “Thing!”, etc. etc. Sometimes it gets as far as slaps & hair pulling – a reg. old-time girl fight – but as soon as one cock grabs his queue & begins to wrap it around his head (wan3 ch’i3 lai – not kuo ch’i-lai – that’s for beggings) someone always steps in & stops it. The shrieks & vituperation of the smallest of these wheelbarrow battles would start a fine battle in any Anglo Saxon town. This stream of traffic is continuous, & how it passes is a wonder till you see them do it – it is simply because everyone is willing to wait a little or give way a little to help the other fellow along. – The son of a bitch muleteer threw me off & the chiao tze on top of me in the middle of a dust storm – 10 min. later Wang got the same dose, but his mule dragged him about 100 yds. Luckily we were near town. – Mao & Shao had a fight. – Hell of a dirty flea-bitten town (Tze Chung) & the usual “hotel.” Chao sat down at the table with me. Wang left Mao & ate with us. Tues Mar 28: Dust storm continues. 6:20 on the road after getting after the stupid kun ch’i ti’s. Mao still sore over last night’s fight with Hsiao. I wanted to kick his ass – all stewed up about having Hsiao put any of his stuff in Mao’s chiao tze. Beginning to find the deep cut & wind blown gorges. Transport both ways gets hung up in these gullies. Man on top-side runs along yelling at them to stop or go ahead. Occasional race through a parallel gully to get to head of column – (The wise wheel mules – slow up at the holes & ease the cart in & out). – I walked to Shan Chow – 30 li – & then rode a pack mule to Ch’iao T’ou Kou – ½ way. Yellow River at Shan Chow. The god damn muleteer coolly said I could get in the chiao tze & he could go back to K.Y.T. Mao is now sorry for his fuss last night. P.M. walked about 20 or 25 li & then climbed on a cart – cart of a kan chi ti – As string after string of camels passed he would devil them & declaim loudly on their bad points so that the camel men would hear him. “What are they doing on the roads in the day time anyway?” The roads are theirs at night”. Look at this big one – grabbing out a handful of fur & screeching ah-h-h sh! at the top of his voice. The camels behind seeing what was coming to them went past with their eyes shut and pulling away from our side of the road. Kuo got so abusive that he had a jaw fight with a camel man & called him an egg. “The camel men are all afraid of us carters” he announced proudly after he had permitted his friend to rather easily pull him back. – Approaching Ling Pau – a succession of Ming monuments – stones on turtles saying (I suppose) that the road had last been repaired in that dynasty. Easy to believe anyway. Reached Ling Pau at 5 – Kansu soldiers had all the “hotels.” Put up at a wheelbarrow hotel. Rained. (The yells for clearance in the cuts). The underground “tiens” in town east of Ling Pau. Hsiao cart turned turtle. Wed Mar 29: Raining. Stayed at Ling Pau till 10. Rain turned to snow & snow finally stopped. Our chiao tze boy doesn’t know who Yuan Shih K’ai was or is or whether I’m from Canton or not (Rode a cart till last ½ hour to-day). 1 mi. out of Ling Pau we crossed a stream bed & struck the Han Wu Pass 關函 (Kuan Han); old frontier post in Ch’in dynasty. It is the only route thro. a range of hills set across the pass to the west. A line of hills 500-1000 ft. high run straight south & cut off all traffic west. Mist hanging on the crest – old bridge of rushes in front of the gate and then 10 li up a gully – sides 50-100’ up – road just wide enough for a cart. Near top a fine view of Huang Ho to N.E., with the low flats on Shansi side green with young corps. Sun shining on low land. Down 10 li on w. side & out another needle eye across a stream. Road now good to Ta Tze Ying2. – Violets along the road. This is the bandit region (Ta Tze Ying = Tartar camp). – One of our carters brought Gailey up last month. Quite voluble @ a picture Gailey took of him. – Beautiful view at Ta Tze Ying. – Broad sloping fields to foothills, green with crops –



above the foothills a lovely sliver of white cloud & directly above it the mt. line – snow covered & clear as on the coldest winter day. Thurs Mar 30: All the drivers took a whiff of opium last night. Ours has been hitting it for 20 years. Left at 6:30. – Liu had again shifted the time, but without telling us – (4 A.M. – 7 A.M. – 6 A.M.). Caught up an hour out. Uninteresting morning – up & down & almost level. – Man’s head hanging on a tree got Hsiao. No t’u fei sighted, although they killed a man at the noon halt last night. Along the Huang Ho, with occasional views of wide sandy stretches. 40 li to P’an T’ou Chên. Noon halt 11:30. Opium here too – Stopped at a filthy inn. Afternoon insisted on going through to T’ung Kuan & Liu tagged along too. Got in at 6:30. Ti-Kuan just east of town, blocking the usual gulley. Limit of Honan. All P.M. in one gully after another. – Carters tickled because I could hau2. (yo-ho-oo-oo-oo). T’ung Kuan an interesting old dump. The old time frontier fortress. Big gates & stone paved ramps leading up to them. Hao3 Chung Kao painted on them. Holy atmosphere. Soldiers singing hymns as they marched thro. streets. – The t’u fei got a lieut. & a ping last night (They had on uniforms & the deceased were fooled). Hsiao still talking about the jên t’ou. – The usual detective came sneaking in for a card & got his ass kicked out. We gave the customs the ha-ha & came in without inspection. – The usual dirty inn. Side-stepped the “place prepared for you” & camped at the inn. Called on after I’d turned in. Fri Mar 31: With Lin Ying2 Fu & 4 pings left at 7:20 – (3 carts). Level easy going to Hua Yin Miao (35 li) Rotten road – Hua Shan to the south. Walked almost all the way. Fair on at Hua Yin Miao. Streets crowded. Soldiers singing on march. Lieut. sings a line or two & they all sing after him. All sorts of chow & junk on sale in streets. A fine old temple enclosure here. – P.M. a long flat tedious hike & ride to Liu tze (55 li) Total 90 li. (Dirty inns.) The road is punk – about 10 ft. wide & winding like a snake – edges breaking down now. Sat Apr 1: Slept in an opium den last night. The poor tools kept trooping in for 10, 15, or 20 coppers worth – put their money & their little pots down and got their poison. Very quiet & inoffensive lot. I scandalized Lin Ying Fu by sleeping out. – Up at dawn & out at 6:30. Flat uninteresting hike & ride to Chih Shin – 40 li. Mailed a letter to Win at Hua Chow. – My touch-hole is better to-day, but I must have broken a piece of cartilage off my spine. Have a hell of a time even sitting down. – P.M. short hike & ride to Wei Nan. This whole province of Shensi is plastered with admonitions & good advice. Do not smoke cigarettes – do not drink wine – be honest in business – honor thy father & thy mother – all the moral precepts that Christianity & Confucianism can furnish. Painted in black 字(tzu – characters) on a white ground they catch the eye everywhere. Many of the stores in addition display a board marked 言格 (yan ke) – proverb. The whole population has the proverb fever, & if this inoculation ever takes, even slightly, the missionaries might as well pack up & go home. But will it? Is it such a simple thing to change the habits & mode of life of this – to say the least – rather stubborn people? Alas, poor Yorick, painting signs on all the walls doesn’t stop the sale of opium nor its open consumption. It can be bought anywhere, & I have been told that 70 to 80% of the people of the prov. use it. Exag. perhaps, but I have myself camped in unsuspicious looking places & seen the hard worked coolies troop in one after another & put down their 10 or 15 or 20 coppers for the “dirt” as they call it. 10 coppers isn’t much but it is 30% of their wages, & this means a terrible drain on their resources, to say nothing of their health. Why doesn’t Fêng stop it, seize the opium and burn it or lead the opium sellers out & shoot them. The answer is that he doesn’t dare because he would



have a young rev. on his hands at his first attack on the pet vice of such a large propor. of his people. But it is sad contrast when you pass at a step from the painted precept of a high morality to the loathsome reality of one of the lowest of vices. (Contrast Shansi & Shensi.) (Also @ beggars.) Pepper roller Baskets of all kinds to-day (bamboo) – Well made. Our carters are a pair of jokers. “Old Kuo” & “Old Kuang” – (both under 40) are proud of their profession. They own the road & look down with supreme contempt upon all other people who are not carters, such as camel men, wheelbarrow men, & mule drivers (see p. 6). Kuo waits till Kuang is dozing on his cart & then runs up & yells ‘look out, Kuang, your cartwheel is coming off.’ Or Kuang waits till Kuo is asleep & then goes past at gallop, screeching like a camel in Kuo’s ear. The people who sell this pair forage have to look sharp. Kuo has his bag slung over the top & is around on the far side in full career in no time, & it’s a long chase down the road to collect if the forage man hasn’t kept his eye peeled. Strange to say, very few beggars are passed without getting a coin of some kind out of these free & easy fellows, & when I walk they both crane their neck to watch me when I approach a beggar & nod with an approving grin as I drop a copper in the basket. (Note on Bunk @ escorts, etc) (The village detective) Opium smoking at the inn. Sun Apr 2: Up and off at 5:30 – just dawn – changed the conscripted cart & bought the two carters a pair of shoes each. (Salt shaker – a stick of bamboo with a plugged hole in the end.) Hiked a bloody 40 li to Liu K’ou, fearful lest the bastards turn off on to a short cut & get ahead. – (No breakfast except cocoa. Got 2 sweet potatoes & millet later on & had chow in Liu T’ung.) – Bawled out my fancy bird, & got a cup of 小米 (hsiao mi - millet). Ta3-chien-ed & then on. I drove the cart & cracked the whip to the great edification of the carters. Same flat country to Liu T’ung. Hiked about 70 li today. At Liu T’ung went to look at the hot spring & had to bathe. The tuchun had sent orders for me to be taken up there & soused in his special tub. It was the drain out of the big pool. I got in up to my neck & even though it was far from pellucid, I think I won, because I had not been bathed since Peking. – I then had tea with another Liu & broke all the rules of conduct from Confucius on (Toothbrush in the pool). A dead t’u fei outside of town. Shot recently, & left out there for all to see. The pings are all snappy & their guns are clean; maybe they are some good. – Hsiao gave me some dope on Fêng; it seems Gailey rather overdid the proposition. – Fêng has @ 30,000 men, & this guy Hu has 20,000 & is prac. independent. Turned in early & slept some in spite of the stink of manure. Mon Apr 3: 11th day – Pings all carried umbrellas. – Started @ 7 & 50 li to city by 12:30. – Two old time bridges near Hsi Shêng. Pestilential beggars – kids chased us for ¾ of a mi. Absolutely couldn’t be driven off. (Made me feel like to hell with this country – back to a real one.) Entering Hsi Shêng impression mostly nil – hard to glimpse an idea of the former greatness of this city. New bldgs in Sp. mission style façade & ornate decorations. One big wide street & Phil. apartment house-looking 2-story bldgs each side – regular & straight. Beyond that – nothing. Coal comes in by wheelbarrow. Hides drying on stretchers – a few rickshaws – pings everywhere – spectacle craze on here in full force. – P.M. looked up Jordan & moved over. He doesn’t know much of anything; in fact nothing seems to be done about anything. $20,000 app. for the road! – (Lao Kuo as cart cuts in on him & blocks him from scooting past “There is always a lot of dog sung along here, but this year there is more than ever!”



Tues Apr 4: The old boil is much better; went down a foot or so during the night. A.M. bummed around till 10:45 & then looked up Fêng. He is in the old Huang Ch’eng where he has built some barracks out of the brick ruins. His men were doing giant swings & studying the bible. The whole place was “picked up”. Fêng lives in a neat little brick shack & is a slow- spoken bird, much on Gailey’s order. Didn’t warm up much to my scheme – found out later why. Showed me all around & dated me up to inspect his kung ch’angs to-morrow. (Maps surprised me till I found they were copied from a form – Was told, however, that the men could go out & do it alone.) (The bulging eyes on the sentry as he saluted.) Got back at 1 P.M. & sat in at the com. meeting till 4:30. Told them what was what & they agreed. – Found they had only $31,000 left with calls from many places. Who’s a liar now? 3 Swedes & an Englishmen (Bell) besides Jordan & Chinks. Long winded yeü fan bastards. Talk talk talk, all for effect & with appropriate gestures. (Bell came down & smoked a cigar afterward.) Chao produced a whole roast chicken, spinach & peanuts for lunch. Mao & Wang came & we got Hsü & arranged for stakes, paper, poles, coolies, etc. etc. Bell says Fêng’s authority doesn’t reach anywhere. 2 days west at Wu Kung the opposition hold the main road to Kansu. Hu sits around at San Yüan out with 10,000 men. A pretty pickle. Bell says the t’u fei regularly grab all excess grain, leaving the people just enough to get to next harvest in. – The Nestorian tablet & the bird who had a replica made intending to swipe the original. It looks now like putting in a small model section & moving on to other fields of adventure. Wed Apr 5: Up at 6 so as to leave at 7 with Fêng & he sends word that he will come at 9:00! The early riser! (The awful la-chê-tis. The col. lets a fart in No. 5 Kung Ch’ang & belches & sucks at the table till I could murder the bastard.) – Well Kao came at 7 & sat & sat & sat & finally said, “Shall we go to the kung ch’angs?” I said, “aren’t we going to the tuchun fu? O, no, that’s off – So we went. Shoe shop (5) – Soap, towel, & furniture (no.). Buttons & buckets & ironwork (no.) – , clothing (no.) – & blankets, rugs, etc (no.). P’ai changs & capts. in charge of rooms & working with the men. – All busy and serious. Producing fair results. “The “Patriarchal System” in full swing. Fêng is also building kung yuans & playgrounds through the city. – Crucified Hsiao – his first time on a horse & I insisted on doing all 5 ch’angs & the flour mill before chow. – Horse-fair & cattle-fair outside West Gate. – Meddling Hsiao insisted in inviting Kao to chow & although I tried to head him off, Kao stayed. I’d had enough of the spitting sucking bastards for a day & I wanted to kill officious “Mr.” Hsiao. The little shit. O, no, if you please he is not my interpreter, – he instructs me in the Chinese language, begod, something infinitely more genteel. Well, he’s got a sore ass to-night, thank God. Kao says they are going to attack Feng Hsiang Fu – 1000 t’u fei there – soon, & he, the G.S. officer, has solved the problem. He is going to mine the wall & thus make a breach to run in through. Great stuff. It wouldn’t do to use cannon or machine guns or go up close, because the defenders would drop stuff on their heads, & anyway the t’u fei make the town people do the fighting! Therefore there is no use killing the people on the wall. Q.E.D. Letter from Win to-day. P.M. finally got rid of Kao at 3:15 & walked out to flower garden east of town to try & locate. Came back in a tortoise rickshaw. Fêng now telephones not to come to-night as previously arranged, but to-morrow at 4. If this rooster changes his mind like this much more, I’m going to move out.



Thurs Apr 6: Chao told me everything I had to eat last night. He went down & looked them over to see what they had. (Crazy dreams @ Win & trying to get her over a high place & she reneging – & a cons. divorce, but found it was Ch. Fenton I was divorcing.) A.M. another phone from the tuchün, not saying anything at all. Kao came & asked a lot of questions @ planes, tanks, etc. & let the cat out of the bag. It seems he cares not if I build the road or not, he wants dope on military affairs. From Kao’s evident state of mind he needs information damn bad. They haven’t the slightest idea of the uses of the new inventions (Kao wants to guard a bridge with a tank). Mao came in bellyaching again & crying @ everything. I sent him out to start levelling. Getting damn tired of him. Horses did not come so wasted a whole day. 白白的好??了一天 (pai pai te hao ?? le yi tien) Fêng is apparently a child & wants to play with kung ch’angs & tanks & let the province pacify itself. He makes no move to do anything. “Washington at Valley Forge” my eye. His pings will grow old doing giant swings and making bone buttons. – Fêng called at 12:30 & sat around & chewed the rag till 1:30. Airplanes, rifle grenades, tanks, etc. Crazy to play with a lot of junk. (Wants to buy it on the quiet!) Question, where is the money? There is none when roads are spoken of. – At 4 Jordan & I went over to the tuchün’s & talked & had chow. Good chow, too, none of this “all same soldier” stuff. (Soup with meatballs, fresh vegetable, chicken, frizzled mutton, lotus seeds, scrambled eggs, man-tou). Afterward to committee meeting @ labor. This horse’s ass Kuo, the king of the “gentry” whatever that is, attempts to talk about how to use the labor on the road, so I told them it was none of their business. – Mao in again, feeling better – total to-day 17 stakes!! Fri Apr 7: At 8 over to get at the overseers. – Had them build a little model & think they understand something. (Pings all sing the sockdology before they eat). Back at 11:30. P.M. out on the road to Pa Ch’iao & back – bum horse, but I got a whip & stirred him up. Drizzle of rain (“Ming-pao pu ming pai? MING PAI” “ni men p’a yü pu p’a yü? PU P’A YÜ.”) Doped out a Stokes mortar for Fêng. Sat Apr 8: Out at 9, with the 40 thieves. Made a yang tze & Hsiao lectured to them in squads, while the rest worked. – Intelligent gang, Hsü Ying2 Fu in command. Piddled along till 2 – still no tamps, so I told ’em to beat it till 5. – One gang has been sent to Pa Ch’iao2 – still no tamps (baskets, poles, ropes, etc.) Latter not so sure. – Ate, & at 5 went to Tuchün Fu & lectured on culverts. Saw Mao @ starting gangs at Pa Ch’iao. Back at 7. Sun Apr 9: Got out at 6:50 with Methusalah & his mule – @ 30 li flat & open to the Yü Ho – (the upper Wei) – wild geese, waited too long to shoot & they flew. Wide river bed – sand and mud – rarely flooded beyond 10’ deep – 2 ferries – first one struck all the sandbars in the river. Second one a scream. 6 to 8 big flatboats, men pushing from stern – (Ho- Ho- Ho- Ya- Yeh! Pa- na- ma! Ho- Ho etc.) Jammed tight with (ours) 8 carts, 8 mules, & 20 or 30 people. Mules are jumped abroad. Some fall in or get hung on their bellies or have to be lifted bodily. Men & animals pissing, boatmen yelling, mules overboard, coolies wading into holes & getting laughed at – a 3-ring circus. Carried ashore on a coolie. We were held up 2 ½ hrs. getting over. – Up over the ridge past the T’ang Wang Ling & on to Kung Hang R. One of the tombs had been opened in 3 places. Contrast with Hsi Ling. Simple mounds of earth 50’ high x @ 200’ long, fashion of pyramid – 2 or 3 tablets in front of them. The promontory between the 2 rivers covered with big & small ones. Fine t’a3 of 13 stories near Ling Ho – on to Tan Yüan. Carter scared at entrance. The typical foreigners idea of a Chinese city. Crooked streets unevenly



paved in large blocks, foul looking beggars, filthy slovenly soldiers, bldgs crowded together. Hostility evident everywhere. Looked up Bell – & was dragged right in. Walked around wall with him. Town looks like Toledo. Fine bridge connects N & S city. Hu Luh Shêng is fighting @ 30 li east, cleaning up some t’u fei (under the colors of the southern party) for Fêng. Soldiers singing & marking time. Silly god damn performance. (Liu – Fêng’s father-in-law was run out by Ch’en Shou Fan, who held his son hostage. Then Fêng comes along & runs out Ch’en. Ch’en at first a lieut. of Liu & got t’u fei to come over to tuchüns side. Bell’s experience when Ch’en entered Tan Yüan, Ch’en shot the adv. guard comdr. for looting. – The demonstrations at Christmas – three weeks Bell did not leave compound – All their teachers & converts went back on them & would not speak to them (Reason? U.S., Eng. Fr. & Japan were going to steal their wonderful country! Ungrateful bastards). Bell’s kids in New Zealand. After chow got prayed over. Mon Apr 10: Rain. Chao let the cart go, the bloody idiot. Got another & started. Chao tried to steal the servants’ money; didn’t give it to them till he saw me go & ask @ it. – Rotten mule, slow as molasses. We beat hell out of him with bunk stretchers. – (Hua ying min for Wu & Gailey – Kung Ch’eng Chü formed here by these suckers. All the parasites must get a nibble. By noon we had gone just 30 li!! At Ch’iao2 Ti lost 2 hrs. more. Got after Kao P’ai Chang & got a good cart. He is one of the civ. gov. soldiers & had a filthy orderly lolling on the table. Fair going on in this dump. – Piked along & reached the end about 6. – Mr.! Wu here with somebody Li. Camped in a cave. Rain kept up. Tues Apr 11: Raining. Out at 6. No fire. Left without breakfast. Of course the hsien shengs couldn’t go in the wet. Got a coolie from Wu & slipped, slopped, pumped, & splashed through mud & water up the damn hill. At the top I crapped on the whole project, lit. & fig. Back down & over to the river. The old works are a marvel. Solid rock cut 20’ & 30’ deep & from 6’ to 20’ wide. Massive stones in retaining walls, all orig. keyed. Crabs & fish in the water. Frequent pools fed by springs. Clear as crystal. Springs in the river bed also. Followed old canal down till I struck the earth & gravel work (an old unfinished intake can be used & the old canal enlarged without much trouble). Back to the cave & found the gay & debonair Chao ready to leave. I bawled the piss out of him for not getting busy on chow. Ate & chewed the rag with Wu & left at 11:45. Made 60 li in to King Yang at 5. Hiked an hour. Shot a “yellow duck” – the wonder of all beholders. – (200 li of ditch at $1000 a li – 2 li cut in for tunnel – 1 li tunnel @ $2 per cu ft. $360,000. 100 sq. ft. + section. $200,000 for cuts to enter tunnel – 3 yrs. time. Irrigate 700,000 mou (10 mi by 35 mi!). Old ditch for drinking water only. N.B. muddy enough a few li down.) At Ching Yang no carts. Made our boy go along. Left at 6 P.M. crossed river and followed s. bank to T’ang Wang Ling. Full moon. At Yü Ho no boats – Fêng afraid of bandits. Has all boats stay on S. side. Back to inn. Slept in cart. Wed Apr 12: Up at 6 & down to river. Got across & got searched by brave pings. Stalked ducks & geese for an hr. No luck, little birds warned them. Left town without yao-ch’e-ti & reached Hsian at noon. Bright warm day (Fêng is a great mil. genius.) (Takes money from the opium tax). Horse’s ass had gone out. Washed, chowed. At 4 went to a “meeting” where Horse’s Ass Shih aired himself on all about roads. He is going to be the engineer apparently. Jordan also is slightly hazy about what engineering is, & what the various duties of the various



people are. I had to hold on to keep from telling them what was what. – The local bird ruined the pictures. Had a bath. Thurs Apr 13: A.M. did the museum, Bei Lin 碑林 (Pei Lin – Stele Forest) & 孔廟 (K’ung Miao - Confucian temple). Usual assortment of junk. The Nestorian tablet – (ching3 chiao). Bei Lin is a business instead of a museum. Rubbings being taken all the time ($10 a year for the priv.) Where does the money go? “The stores give it to an official – he gives it to the sheng chang – & he gives it to the tuchün.” “Who does the tuchün give it to?” “Huh, he doesn’t give it to anybody.” -- Telegram from Gailey saying Norting not coming till May. – Com. met & all the horses asses blew out & bad smells all over the room. Decision – dirt road between the bridges. – Decision, that done, I beat it. Packed up & left at 2:45. Reached Shih Li P’u about 5:30 & dug out a tien. Mao turned up later. Fri Apr 14: Out at 7 – chased around & got some gangs going. Dumb lot. As usual, everything hard to start. 2 tamps on hand. The great Mr. Hsü. Tools insufficient, wooden shovels. No tamps to be had. – Inspected by Shih Bone Head, the funny little col. (Liu) & Tung & Derby Hat. Threw it into little Liu about Fords, & piled it on. He never said a word, but just got on & rode off. They all had new saddles & good horses, not much like the crow bait they sent me to ride. – Made some diagrams for the overseers & had Hsiao spiel to them. Pooped up & down. Back at 6 – wrote to Win & Gailey. Will leave on 21st. Sat Apr 15: Terrible workmen. Overseers no good yet. Won’t make the men work. Came back at 10. – Nothing to do. Wrote. P.M. hiked beyond Hô K’ou to look over line. Nothing special. Back late. Foolish letter from Jordan about shovels. Sun Apr 16: Looked over the work in the A.M. & then wrote up some junk. – P.M. walked over the fields below Ch’an Ch’iao & shot at ducks. Back over the work. Sent the sick coolie up to Jordan – he was simply dying in the street. More foolish stuff from Jordan about Hsiao not waiting for the stakes. Letters from Win, Mom, Dad, Bub, John & Hoop. All pepped up. Mon Apr 17: Out at 9 – Work all bitched up. The goddamed chien kung tis aren’t on the job. Still cutting wrong after being told 20 times. – Lao Tao priest from Yünnan, Szechuan, Kansu, on his way to Peking. His hua is easier to understand than the Shensi dialect. Sells yao & bunks in at the temples. 3 mos. on the way already. Didn’t know whether or not I was a chink. – P.M. Was going to Liu T’ung, but about 2 heard a commotion & found that Feng’s men were moving east. Rumored that Chang Tso Lin is starting things. Now see the reason for the Chien-Kung-tis’ absence. Took Hsiao & martyred him by hiking in to Hsi An. Transport moving east. Saw Jordan & told him he might as well call it off. Gailey arrives Wed. night – a little late. Looked up Newman & b-ached with him & a Sp. priest. Newman says Fêng takes the opium tax & pays his men with it, moreover he has had 7,000,000 since he’s been here & has had to send Wu P’ei Fu 1,000,000. Newman thinks Fêng is a false alarm, & that Gailey is a horse’s ass. Thinks as I do @ irrigation etc. The Kan Lung affair is a joke. Ts’ao is back inside & Hu is pretending to fight to milk Fêng for ammunition. Fêng’s fight with bandit Yao who gave him hell & only quit because he ran out of ammunition. Put his men in scattered holes 2 or 3 to a hole, & with mauser pistols shot in all directions. N. says Fêng has been sending home money for himself. N. has never lost a sack of mail here, & claims he keeps in touch with all factions, t’u fei included. –



Present rumpus is due to Wu’s attempt to bump off Chao Ti, & the I Chün has riz as 1 man (old time local troops). Wu apparently tried to bomb Chao Ti, but the affair miscarried. (pres. tuchun of Honan). Newman served in Chink navy against Japs, & has been in China for 33 years. Can’t say enough against the average chink soldier – (1st – 7th – 20th Divs for inst.) (Not Fêng’s men) & claims they rob, rape & rant wherever they go. 10 men to 1 woman is the general rule – Savage with prisoners. – Invited me for dinner tomorrow. – Looked up leather boxes & brought Hsiao back in a rickshaw for which he said nothing. Has a bellyache. Tues Apr 18: Out at 8. Workmen piddling – Ranted up & down exhorting them. “Wo” gangs singing Oh-la-la etc. Yao hiu chia chïh ….., chao i ko kumang. O, la-la-la- etc. Strings of carts with soldiers’ families & junk passing all A.M. Mao scared pee-less, coming in to Shih Li P’u – afraid of t’u fei. At noon Mao appeared. At 2 a cart came down with Lei Kung T’an, & we put our stuff on & came up. Mr. Tung & Hsü Moose-Shit don’t know what to do now. Got a bath and went over to Newman’s to chow. – Orueazabal & a wop priest there. A G.B. out of cans, some excellent wine home-made & victrola music. (The Old Brigade – Galle-Curce – get them) Dope on Chang Tso Lin & the war. Newman says Chang is OK – strict discipline – hates Japs. Instances of his seeming action. The off. who pulled a pistol in the P.O. Had off. in 7 min. (Changsha). The gen. in March who squeezed pay – Shot him, etc. etc. Wu P’ei Fu has gotten his backside in a sling. Lost the trunk to Hankow & possibly the Yellow R. bridge. – The Chien syph cure – $10,000) (Newman’s porcelains!) (1 vase $15,000.) Wed Apr 19: Overslept from over-eating & thinking it was raining, rolled out at 8:15. Did not go down to road. Walked around town & bargained for fur & leather boxes. Noon, Jordan came in to tell me not to come to dinner & to say that as Hsü had left & the road was entirely on his shoulders, it would have to be given up! No word from Gailey. – P.M. Got fur & boxes & boxed ’em up. 8 P.M. to Jordan’s party. A lot of Eng. people there. – Played silly games like blowing paper cones on a string & answering questions addressed to other people. Dr. Broomhall a good scout. Got away at 10:30. Thurs Apr 20: Packed & ready at 8 – sent stuff to P.O. to go on carts. Mao feazing around as usual. He got a cart finally. Got a late start. – Sent boxes off. Goodbye to Newman. To Ch’an Ch’iao with Jordan. Carts came as we started back. Waited for Chao till 12:30. 石(shih) k’o chang came by & said Hou Hui Yu Ch’i, looking pretty doleful. (Story of a guy who got mad at chink who was trying to give him a present from the governor) About a reg’t going east. Jordan went back having learned all @ road building and we got to Hsia K’ou at 4. The crazy man writing tzu in the dust. The funny little fat kid – absolutely motionless big crowd gathered to watch the fun – (the farting huo chi at the box store). Left Hsia K’ou about 4:30 & made Hsien Fêng at 6:30 – Found Hsü Mu Shih who says Gailey is in Liu T’ung! – The hills back of Liu T’ung looked like Hawaii. Pretty view NW to King Yang pagoda. – The Ch’in Shih Huang tomb near Hsui Fêng. – The road crowded everywhere with pings. Called on Mên, Fêng’s C. of S., & asked to go along with them. Fri Apr 21: Up at 3, & finally got out of town at 5:30. Usual block everywhere – (camels carrying money). Dozed to Liu K’ou (30 li) – 7:30. (–Whoever pees here has 1 mother & 10,000 fathers). (Brick p’ai 子 (tzu) – outside Wei Nan – cursing the ts’un chang. Called him a dog.) Walked to Wei Nan – 11:30 – Crucified Hsiao for same distance (40 li). (Fed animals at



Liu K’ou & beat it right on). The great Kao Kun Mou & his staff are here. Also funny little Chiang2 – all down in the mouth & bemoaning China’s fate. – At Wei Nan delayed endlessly by Hsü & Tung Fu Kuan; got mad & pushed on while poor Tung ran up & down the road after us. Ran 6 li the second time. Finally I got it thro. my solid ivory that the tuchün was trying to give me a rug, an escort & some good chow. My God – A good rug, too; it came along by bicycle, the poor rider all in. – Off again, feeling cheap. At Cheh Shien, Hsü gently insinuated that we stop – so we did – in the filthiest pile of shit I have yet camped on. Headache. Chowed & turned in early. Got off notes to Gailey, Jordan & Win – (Told Mr. Hsiao to get in the other cart. He sprawls all over me & snores, & his goddam shoes fall off, & he stops the cart to get on. Made him give me Mên’s card that he hooked last night.) – Hsiao still laughing about the little huo chi – it seems I should have given him a chance to sneak off, & pretend not to smell him. Sat Apr 22: Up at 4 – rain & mud. Carters still snoozing, unwilling to go. (The inn yard a sight – a lake of shit and piss). Off at daylight – carried the dumb kid to Hua Chow & he got off without a look or a thank you. – They are a selfish lot of bastards. Do you think Hsiao thanks me for getting him home when he was sick? No sir! After Hua Chow, along comes an impudent god damned ma-fu & asks me to sit inside so he can ride on the side. I was sorry for the bastard and weakly let him on – to Liu Tze. Do you think he said thank you? O, no! Do you think he’d have asked one of their officers for a ride? Yes, like hell. Worked the foreigners; they’re Christians & therefore easy money! Reached Liu Tze at 10:30. Still raining. Cocoa, bread, (boiled eggs), (millet), and peanuts (typical breakfast menu). – The fresh guy didn’t try to climb back on my cart. No crap – felt dull as hell. Walked about 2 hrs. but no result. Past Hsia Hua Shan & Lou Hua Shan famous old temples a day’s trip up the mt. (Given to the priests by a Sung emp. who lost to him at checkers, so the priests never paid any attention whatever to Peking). Got to Hua Yin Miao at 4:30 – (105 li from Ch’ih Shui). Usual inn. (Laid a base-ball bat out back.) Sun Apr 23: Off at 5:30 or 6. T’ung Kuan at 9:30. Town crowded with soldiers. Went in to Fu Yin T’ang & got junk ready for Fêng. Open & shut; cleared at 10 – The Lou Hua Shan, back of Hua Yin Miao, must be quite a dump – 60 li (?) up & part way hauling on chains. Big pine trees; (many men passed carrying cones). – (This A.M. Chao the little bastard, stuck the big basket in my cart & put Hsiao’s bedding over it. I dug it out & bawled him out. Bawled out old Lü yesterday for taking orders from Hsiao while I was doing coolie work.) Got some chiang ts’ai4 & cakes for the escort, Tung, Hsü and Fêng. Waited around till 3:00 – big wind up, Huang Ho pretty rough. Tuchün in but busy. Will stay over till to-morrow. – At 5:30 suddenly got word from Fêng – Went over & had supper with him in an old temple. He & Liu T’uan Chang & Hsü Moose Shit & I. Looked over a reg’t. massed for inspection & speech – got a couple of pictures & said goodbye. Fêng makes friends. He is a solid sort of a guy & no airs. Introduced me to the ret’t. as shih yung chang, of the O Chou Ckea. All the pings eyes stuck out like the sentry’s at Hsi An. Afterward walked around town & got up on the wall. Old guns Tao Kuang, 22nd year. View down the Huang Ho & across to Shansi. Backed down a bunch of fresh pings who called me “yang kuei”. (Found that fresh “Mr.” Hsiao bas been borrowing from Chao & telling him to put it on the bill.) Slept at the Fu Yin T’ang. Gave the gun to Hsü Moose Shit to give Fêng. Mon Apr 24: One mo. out. Down to ferry at six, just as it pulled out, loaded. Hsu Moose Shit still sticking around. Chased him, had chow, then waited. (Fêng accepted the pistol, but sent his



own back by the Mu Shih-Chi-mien for us both.) (The dog in heat fighting for her life all day long. Saw her hooked about 10 min. after she lay down exhausted to get some sleep.) – Finally got over at 10:30 after the usual terrible hullabaloo & screaming & fighting. After the boat was full they put on 4 carts & 9 mules. Inspection for opium on Shansi side, – a lot of self-satisfied & complacent pings sticking prongs through all baskets, & frisking everybody. Off at 11 – Lü got kicked in the stomach by a mule & heaved a brick at same, scoring a hit, close in. Held up 5 li out by a lien chang to learn that t’u fei were ahead & soldiers were instructed to pao lin us, & we weren’t to think it was an inspection. (Mao wouldn’t get off his cart on a very bad hill after I told him to.) Ta3 chiened at 1:15 – then on. – Hot. Dozed till 3:30 but the damn cart jolted a stitch into me. 5:30 Han Yang Chên. Decided to stay for the night. One month. Tues Apr 25: Off at 5:40 – a lot of 牲口(sheng k’ou – livestock) yelled around from 3 A.M. on. Wound around & almost touched P’u Chow. 3 hrs. out, only 25 li from Han Yang Chên. Mao knew all about it last night. – Reached Ma P’u T’ou (or Ma P’i Hu) about 11:30. – Can of pears & some rice; on at 12:30. (Had to bawl Mao out for not taking care of the tripods.) Dozed till 3, but jolted black and blue. Fine crops of wheat; the mt. range runs almost due E & W. and rises abruptly out of the plain. Got to some damn place at six & had chow. Turned in for a good snooze & a damn scorpion bit me. Then lay awake in a sweat all night, feeling them all over me. Caught 1 bastard. Stung in the finger; no worse than a wasp. Wed Apr 26: Out about 6:15. At 8:30 reached Hai Chow – big town with Kuan Ti Miao. This Kuan is the god of war (Hachiman?) & all the Wen temples are dedicated to him as all the 武 (wu) temples are to K’ung Fu Tze. – This was his birthplace (Last of Han dynasty). Fine big temple, new bldg. just up (T.3000). Shows what these places can be when new. 9:00 on again along a furnace like gully across the plain. Hot as hell. At 1:30 got into an inn at Lu Tsun. Mao feeling quite perky. Carters want to go back. OK. Decided to stay over here & change carts. (Mushroom soup & rice & scrambled eggs.) This inn seems like luxury after the shit-pots we’ve been living in. (Total bill $1.67.) The shih k’o lan tai hua’sh & his adenoid friend, a footless pair of fools. Thurs Apr 27: Late start – carters slow. – “Mr.” Hsiao took no part, as usual, in the morning sport of packing up. Told Chao to pay no further attention to him. Paid off Lü & Hsü and left at 6:40. Walked 2 hrs. Hot as Hell & dusty as the Sahara desert. Finally reached Fu T’ou at 1:45. “Mr.” Hsiao hasn’t seen fit to do any talking with me today. – Only interesting thing in the whole A.M. was a sign at the gate of Nin Chia Wên’rh – “No nin-jon sellers allowed in this town.” Mr. Hsiao tried to explain himself by telling me he was out till 12 M. at the YMCA with a Peking friend. Off again at 3. Hot as hell still. At 4 it let up & I hiked till 5:30. At 6:30 we got to 聞喜 (Wen Hsi). (Didn’t know whether we were coming to Warm Wash or Smell Happiness. It turns out to be Smell Joy). Fri Apr 28: Friday all right. Told the bastards to meet me at Tung Chên, & they went on 15 li to another place. I walked from 5:30 to 11:30 – the last 2 hrs. cursing at every step. Rushed all over the fields looking for the –– ––‘s. Finally went back to Tung Chên & waited, & Kan3 che’te Yang came for me. Hsiao greeted me with “How many li did you walk?” I didn’t dare answer for fear of killing him. Another dirty rotten dusty, uninteresting day. Dust storm blew up twice in the P.M. & as suddenly quit. Dozed till 3, & then got jolted to life again, a hell of a country.



Crossing the low divide to the Fên Valley. Dirt, dirt, dirt, no tree, grass, crop or anything but dust & dirt. Got in at 7. Sat Apr 29: Got out at 4:55. Horse’s ass lasted 15 min. & then climbed on a cart. I walked 2 hrs. & then rode. Hot as HELL & twice as dusty. Rotten dirty dusty mud country. All day long the same. Ta3 chien-ed at 10:30 & got to Ping Yang at 5:30. Only incident in a dull day – Yao2-Shun temple outside Ping Yang (Yao – 1st Emp. – picked out Shun to succeed him.) The Footless Fart got lost & I went on, ignoring him. Theatricals & a horse fair (!) going on in the temple. Whom should I find at the inn but, Billy the horse, looking fine, mane clipped, tumor out & the Pye back healed up. Sun Apr 30: Out at 5:30 with a change of carts, mules & carters, in order of intelligence. Cool & overcast. Walked about 3 hrs. Route along the Fên Valley – no hills in A.M. “Mr.” Hsiao rode on a cart this A.M. “Instructor” is good. Reached 安樂鎮 (An Le Chen) at 11:15. Thunder-storm at 1 P.M. & in 15 min. the main st. was running nearly a foot deep. Cleared about 2. (My carter got caught washing his feet in the tso fan ti kuo, & the bald headed p’ao t’angrhti gave him hell. The dam horse got his collar up over his head, & was a ringer for one of Hill’s 50 yr old spinsters.) – At 3:30 we started – still raining & at 9:10 we reached an inn at Chan Chêng, 40 li away. A hell of a P.M. – thought we’d never get there. Last hour in the dark, falling into holes, etc. One li in 2 feet of water. – The road was simply a morass. Carters soaked. Held up for ½ hr. just outside Chan Chêng. Cart stuck ahead of us. Of course the town gate was shut. Only one interesting place – Hung Tung, a big cotton town. Old broken arch bridge. Mon May 1: Still raining. Chow at 6. (Striking thing, the number of big stone arch bridges everywhere, usually with ½ the arches gone. Repair? God no, why repair? The present day chink is a sad throw off from the people who built these br.) Out at 7:40 – warned not to go – & about 6 li out struck a bitch of a hill. – Usual gully washed in the ruts with numerous deep holes. Bill Spivis the duck bill carter picked ’em all out & drove right into them. Hit more holes than all 5 other carters combined. They pitched in & cheerfully helped him out of each one as he got in. In places they hitched 3 mules tandem with a man between the traces after the leading mule. The usual screaming & yao ho-ing, yelling, & laughing, slipping in the mud. Mules straining & shitting wet ginger snaps all over the breeching. Some morning. Helpful Harry the Horse’s Ass looked on as usual & had his hat properly placed. He is getting very painful. Why, SPHINCTER is his name! & it never came to me till to-day. Had fun all P.M. yelling it out. In 6 hrs. we went 15 li to the top of the grade – (Chao & I filling holes with a shepherds shovel) – & down the other side. Then along the river & 15 or 20 li from Ho Chow, turned up over the hill through another gully. Not so bad, nobody got stuck. About 100 camels gave us the road, rotten looking sights, moulting & peeing backwards between – or on – their hind legs. Pretty sight coming in to Ho Chow on the worst “road” I ever saw – just a succession of pig-shit pools & loose rocks & holes. – Country looks like Yung Ming & Lin Lun – good crops – pretty trees. Rotten dirty town. Recognized at the inn by some men who were on the Yellow R. road last year. – (This auto road is located too low; going to be washed out.) -- Treated the 6 carters to breakfast – 57 coopers, – about 20 cents gold – 小米 (hsiao mi) t’ang, pao 子 (tzu) & eggs. The horse’s ass capt. of about 20 oat-blower troops who clanked past in boots 4 sizes too big. He had a properly waxed moustache, he had.



Tues May 2: Left Ho Chow at 5:40 – & at once started up & down hill & kept it up till 7:30 P.M. Up to the highest hogback & then down again & repeat. (Getting into coal country). One fine extensive view from Tip Top at Han Hou Pass – (temple to the hero of the Han dynasty). – drew my fortune which I am told is a very lucky one. Ta chien-ed at Jên I. (2 P.M.) Took a bite of a pao-tze about 10 A.M. & nearly threw up. Cool weather & good going, but hell on animals. At Jên I met the volunteer carter who had sold his mules and cart to raise hell on in T’ai Yuan Fu & was afraid to go back home. Two more volunteers, one an old guy who cleaned the mud off the wheels. Fed ’em all. Left Jên I at 3:30 & at once struck the worst hill of the trip – rocky, with grades of 20% and over. How they do it I don’t know. First 4 li they call 10, then 15 more to the top & about 15 more down to Ling Shih. Got in at dark. Inns full, but found a good place (Hsiao immensely improved today). Wed May 3: 14th day out. Off at 5:30. We had apparently been camping in an old temple. Level road along the river to I T’ang about 50 li. Arr. there 10:30. – Lots of coal along here. Pheasants scary, couldn’t get a shot. Sphincter still doing well – Shaved at I T’ang to the delight of the natives who crowded around to watch. – Old man offered me a girl to take along. Left at 12:15 – level road to Fen Chow. Stopped at Hsiao I to bargain for some boxes but we couldn’t agree, luckily, & I got away without them. Bulky things. The old Fen Chow pagoda seemed a million miles away & stayed there. Thought we were 5 li out but it was 15. Got in at 8 P.M. thro. east suburb. Went to Mao Shêng Chan & got a 2nd story room, & proceeded to dumps slops on the people below. Thurs May 4: Up at 6. To fair – bought boxes galore. Got shoes fixed. – To mission, saw Watsons, Miss Holmes & Ninnger. (Chao is out for lu kung chu). Back to inn. Boxes had been sent unwrapped – the bastards. Had a squabble about it, & made ’em wrap them up after a fashion – a dam poor one too. We got off finally at 12:30 & outside the east gate Chao disappeared. Waited & waited & looked all around, & then went back to the god dam inn at 3 P.M. No Chao anywhere. Fiddled around & repacked & got a carpenter to shittoe the boxes. Chowed early. Wrote Wang Hsiang Liu a letter saying nothing. Turned in early. Fri May 5: Up at 4:20 & got ’em going. Slow work. Off at 5:40. No sign of Chao. Drizzly rain. – At Ma Ts’un – 12:30 – found that Chao had been here last night & early this A.M. had started back to Fên Chow. Christ! Paid his bill, left money & instructions & left at 2 P.M. He is to follow to Chiao Ch’êng – Fu Shêng Tien. – Sleepy as hell all day long. Accumulated desire to rest, I suppose. Banged around half asleep till 6 P.M. then walked till 8 P.M. when we reached Chiao Ch’êng. Chowed & turned in. Chao came in during the night. – Subtropical effect near Chiao Ch’êng – lemon colored sun mist on the hills – vapor all along the plain, grape vines by the mile – dripping trees here & there. Except that it was cold as hell. Contrast with a week ago in southern Shansi. Sat May 6: Left Chiao Ch’êng at 6. Walked 2 hrs. & 1/4 then rode 2 hrs., dozing. Ta3 chiened at 10:30 at Chêng Yüan Hsien – (Chinks laying nets to catch birds among the graves. Put caged birds around to attract them & a couple tied on top of the net, hopping around). – (The bridge substitute at T’ung Kuan. Take the wheels off a cart, turn it upside down & lay it across the gap. Bridge is now built.) Along by Ch’êng Yüan Hsien, stream beds have been built up high above surrounding country. The towns appear to be in holes. – Kids playing store with mud pies in a



dye (?) tank. – Off at noon & at 3:30 reached Chin Tzü. Decided to stay. Looked around the temple, most famous in 山西 (Shan Hsi) – good deal on plan of Jap temples. Crowd of T’ai Yuan school boys playing around some in the brook. Bathed & chowed, & who should come in but Chao, who is here with the school boys. He was full of rumors, but knew nothing. (Apologized about decoration, blamed it on Peking). Tried to give me a bicycle, or an auto, & wanted me to stay at his house etc. etc. I ducked it on plea of getting on to Peking. Sun May 7: Off at 5:30. Walked 2 hrs. Got into T’ai Yuan at 11. Got to tel. office & got Win’s wire. Saw Liu on the street. Poletti the wop out hunting. (Liu says Kin Han line soon open). Went to R.R. station but they know nothing. Back to a jerk-water hotel – paid off carters, & bunked in. – A lot of wild news by Sphincter about millions of dead & armies in flight & Fêng personally leading 3 divisions to victory & such stuff. Slightly crazy with the heat. – Slept as if I were drugged till 8, & then went & saw the wop Poletti. He says the line is open for mail. Anyway we’ll try it. (Claims Yen has 60 million & is squeezed each year from Peking for being both civil & mil. gov. Won’t do anything because foreigners may have a hand in it.) Mon May 8: (Dream of running up a hill jumping over carcasses & skeletons; if I got to the top I’d get back & see Win. Arrived easily & bumped into a chino who said ‘who did you pinch last night?’ I said, ‘take off your hat so I can see who you are.’ It was one of Fêng’s cpls. who had changed into a girl. I said it must have been Tom Calron, he looks a little like me. Then I was to demonstrate one and neutralizing another on my dink. Told someone if it didn’t work my dink would fall off. Then a wide low wagon came along & someone announced that we had the pleasure of having with us one J. A. Stilwell. What I was to do God only knows. Mr. Gorten was just driving away but stopped when he heard the announcement. Looked in the wagon & saw someone of the Chiron Club so sat on the fender & made it sag. Had on a vest only & called to mother that this seemed to be the proper uniform. I must have had a fever – Up at 5:30 & got packed up. To station at 7. Another cop wanted a card & I told him to go to hell. On the train I bawled out a hsien ping who wanted a card. Dam nuisance to say the least. Be god damned if after the train started another bastard didn’t come through & want a card. Refused to give it to him – The bloody fools. – By Jesus – 5 minutes after Another came thro & said the hsien ping at the station was an imposter & only a newspaper reporter. – Slept till 12. Ate a chop at 12:30 & dubbed around. Arr. Shih Chia Chuang at 4:15. Got stuff right over to other station & checked, after getting the bastards to move & sell tickets etc. An inattentive bunch of S.O.B.’s. – Helpless Hsiao moved down to the hotel with the junk after I told him to wait at the station & then pretended to be studying Eng. when I came. I said, “what did you come down here for?” He said, “I don’t know.” Balls on the pope. – Lucander & Gimbel the two foreigners have the dope that we can get through to Peking. Frenchman on repair train says line is open – change at Pao Ting, & Ch’ang Hsien Tien. – Delicious chow – hors d’oeuvres – soup – fish – chicken – fried toast, fruit (left out 2 courses at that). Seemed like being a millionaire to sit down to good chow properly served. – Lay down for a nap. – Train coming at 9:30. Went over & got on – Crowded, but we gradually shifted around & got places. – Had a beer with Gimble & Lucander & went to sleep about 11:30. Tues May 9: Pao Ting Fu at 4 A.M. Got out & had some 小米 (hsiao mi). 7 A.M. train north! Left at 7:45 – (The tart who climbed on the troop train). – Transport (carts) going south – train after train – rolling stock from everywhere. Pukow, Suiyuan, Mukden etc. – Dubbed along to



Chang Sui Tien. Across the awful battlefield. The new maj. of art. who got off to look for bullets. Not a shell hole. 1 ruined house, 3 stray bullets. From Changsuitien shifted our stuff to a flat & came along to Peking arr. 4 P.M. A terrible war Bill, a terrible war. Boy Scouts at the station, nice pretty boys. Red Cross hero with a shrapnel case. – Vendor with French flag – The guard at the gate – all great stuff. Went to office for mail. – Rubbish about trouble at Cheng Chow. Home at 5. Surprising appearance of everything. Pengs, new furniture, garden, etc. etc. Joe’s glasses, Doot’s good looks, Al’s devil etc. etc. Ducks etc. Wed May 10: Home A.M. Haircut P.M. Mrs. Crane for tea. Thurs May 11: Type writing, Sphincter – played around. Fri, Sat, Sun May 12, 13, 14: No entries Mon May 15: Started with Hsiao. Tues, Wed, Thurs May 15, 17, 18: No entries Fri May 19: P.M. movies (Mrs. Crane anxious to go to a concert). Sat May 20: Win came thro & lifted the glove barrage. Sun May 21: Mrs. Tenney & kids over. Mon May 22: Sister Cath ivory – got asparagus. Tues May 23: Home all day. Korean chest. Win to town & walked back. Mrs. Crane in P.M. Weasel got chickens. Wed May 24: Up at 5:15 – to watch doings. Nothing doing. Horsfall back from pacifying Honan. Doot feeling punk. Thurs May 25: Nance’s concert. Horsfall brought us back. (His awful remark @ Chotch). Fri May 26: Usual. Sat May 27: A.M. usual shopping. P.M. to 人大(Jen Da) Chi… Horsfall, Mrs. Crane. Lemos 40 cents a throw. Back via Ch’eng Hua. Home 7. Sun May 28: Home all day. Mrs. Tenney & the squirt kid called. Mon May 29: Win to barber. Losing his gut. Tues May 30: Win to barber. Am. theatricals? Wed May 31: M.A.’s office – till 1. Got checks. Tenneys to say goodbye. Shit.



Thurs June 1: Nance’s birthday. She planned supper. Movies. Fri June 2: As usual. Dust storm. Cable, stuff arr. U.S. Sat June 3: Bank, legation etc. etc. Hose – kids bathed in it. Arth. all P.M. Sun, June 4 – Fri June 9: Lessons. Sat June 10: To Legation etc. Printing office, M.A. office, etc. Tennis court. Sun June 11: Peck’s 字 (tzu) nearly all day. Vacation for kids. Mon June 12: Exam for snotties all day till 3:30. I worked till midnight on Peck’s characters. Tues June 13: Slept most of day. Very hot. 108 in shade of pêng. Wed June 14: Sent Hsiao away, Wooton, Bald, Ki, & Horsfall to dinner – till midnight. Doot under the weather. Played tennis. Thurs June 15: In bed all day feeling rotten. (Terrible nights with sand flies.) Fri June 16: Much better. Sat June 17: A.M. to bank & office. Reported on snotties exam. List of books for ref. lib. etc. etc. Sun June 18: Around house. Wan & Chi came. Mon, June 19 – Tues June 20: Hot days. Wed June 21: Crane’s for tea. Peking Hotel at night. Frost. (Maj. Hutchison & Mr. Dubarry). Thurs June 22: No entry Fri June 23: Rain. Heavy. Sick in bed – dengue. Sat June 24: Wangs for tea. Sat. P.M. heavy rain – holes opened in garden & court. Sun June 25. Sprinkle. Mon June 26: Heavy rain. – Win & girls in town. Nance to Pecks’. Ducked Mrs. Crane’s dinner. Tues June 27: Beautiful day. Feeling a little better. Wed June 28: Still no pep.



Thurs June 29 – Fri June 30: ? Sat July 1: To San Kuan Miao. Sis. Cath. etc. Still feeling shaky. Sun Jul 2: Pep back. Wrote letters. Around house all day. Mon Jul 3: Win to barber. P.M. Tennis at adv. mission. Tues July 4: A.M. firecrackers. Kids up at 4:30. Evening to legation. Movies, fireworks & reception. Mrs. Crane with us. Wed July 5: Win took Doot to hospital. Eyes OK but need drops. Caught Mrs. Magruder going to see Maxwell. Thurs July 6: Win & I to the movies – alone for 1st time in years. Two fine pictures. Fri July 7: A.M. to Flower St. with Win. Bay Cops. Got gravel for garden walks. Nance to Western Hills – Pecks’. Sat July 8: Joe & I to Pa Ta Ch’u-Chieh T’ai Ssu – Hard going – too much for me. Joe a donkey rider. Hot. Sun July 9: Hot. To Mên T’ou Kou. Squabble @ pay for donkeys. Train late. Home at 5. Petro. here. Mon July 10: Ch’en’s wedding. Win to town. Nance back. All slept out. Hot. Tues July 11: Funeral opposite. Win & I to movie (Wu P’ei Fu!) Win to town. Wed July 12: Usual day. Thurs July 13: Petro. for dinner. Win & kids rickshaw ride. Rain. Fri July 14: Still hot. Gravel came for garden. Scorpions. Win shopped. Sat July 15: Wrote letters. Sun July 16: Discov. Richardson at Wag. Lits. (Petro. there). Mon July 17: Rich. moved out. Win took him shopping. Tues July 18: Rich got lamps. Tailor etc. Wed July 19: Garden party in P.M. after dinner at Peking Hotel. Win took Rich shopping. Thurs July 20: Movies in evening. Horsfall to dinner.



Fri July 21: Rained hard early. A.M. (Scorpion.) Rich. packed in P.M. To Summer Palace (Horsfall) A.M. Sat July 22: Rich left at 8:30. Ch’en & Chao. Rained like hell in A.M. early. P.M. Krieg & Dipper both in, for Win & Al. Went to bank and 三官廟 (San Kuan Miao – Three Gods Temple) in A.M. & Heavy rain then. Al sicker at night. Win up 18 + times. (Sent Li for Yao at 1 A.M.) Sun July 23: Al better. Rain. Scorpion in my room – After calomel Al got rid of a 6” worm. Relief, my God. Immediate improvement. (– Mrs. Philoon over in P.M.) Sent worm to Krieg. Mon July 24: Still raining. Tues Wed Thurs July 25, 26, 27: No entries Fri July 28: Dizzie arrived. Doot’s worm. Al’s 4th! Movies with Dizzie & Horsfall. Sat July 29: Prickly heat – all the girls. – Roof garden at Peking Hotel – Woodbridge & Horsfall. Sun July 30: Home all day. Dizzie out to movies with L.P. Mon July 31: Win took Diz. shopping in A.M. Diz. left. L.P. took her to station. (A good match – too late). (Mr. Farnham dead.) Tues Aug 1: Win to town. Wed Aug 2: Shut Kuan off. To town, bank, haircut, etc. Saw Gailey the big fat stiff. Win & I to the movies. Rotten. Thurs Aug 3: Hot last night. – Joe left on his trip – unconcerned. Win to town on errands. P.M. Kuan begged off. Cabled Aunt Kate. Fri Aug 4: Very hot last night – a shower. 92° in k’ô -t’ing at 9 A.M. Shut Kuan off. Sat Aug 5: Home all day. Cooled in P.M. (Ch’ên did not come back. Went after him.) Sun Aug 6: Movies with Nance & Doot. No word from Joe. Fired Ch’ên Mon Aug 7: Shower. Got new boy Ch’êng. Tues Aug 8: Raining. Letter from Joe. A scream. He came in about an hour later – soaked. Hard guy. Great trip. Sorry to come home. Wed Aug 9: Rotten cold.



Thurs Aug 10: (Doot says Joe, I’m sorry you’re back.) Fri Aug 11: Letter from Roberts at Changsha. Sat Aug 12: To T’ung Chow with Horsfall – saw school. Cool. Sun Aug 13: Kuan p’in ku niang. Dull time at Yue Shan T’ang. Evening to movies. Cool. Wrote letters. Went to see Baker. Mon Aug 14: Kuan begged off. Tues Aug 15: Heavy rain. In P.M. took a walk. Saw Baker. The false alarm @ the Hunan proposition. Wed Aug 16: Heavy rains. Walls tumbling down. A.M. to town. Bank, School. Saw Cheney about Hunan. He was “conferring” about the next “war”. Wired Roberts. Thurs Aug 17: Yü Wang Fu. Prelim exam by a boob. Heavy rain in P.M. More walls down. Stinks like a mud flat around here. Fri Aug 18: Win’s birthday. Sat Aug 19: No entry Sun Aug 20: With Kuan to Mei Lang Fang. Tedious wait. Good when he came. Mon Aug 21: No entry Tues Aug 22: Wire from Roberts. Pos. filled, not needed. (Wilson) Aug 22. Wed Aug 23 – Sat Aug 26: No entries Sun Aug 27: To central Park in P.M. Mon Aug 28: No entry Tues Aug 29: Dizzy back. Wed Aug 30: Dizzy & Miss Wood, Horsfall & Petro to dinner. Movie after. Thurs Aug 31: Looked for pots. Bought 5 at old store. Fri Sept 1: Looked for lamp shades outside Ch’ien Men. Sat Sept 2: A.M. Bank & M.A. P.M. T’ung Chow, saw Menzi & Miss Beard @ Joe.



Sun Sept 3: Left at 9 – 1 hr. run over. Train at 11:19 not 10:19 (coolie driving footsore sow in station) – Kalgan at 7:00. – Major inspecting the taos’ baskets. – Beautiful colors near Kalgan. The temple perched on a pinnacle. Big locos, heavy grades. The Great Wall – an insig. thing. 3 lines in Nank’ou Pass, to protect the old road. We had to discipline the chinks. As we were 3rd cl. they thought they were as good as we were – so we got rough (Ch’ing Lung Ch’iao is station for Wall). Fine grapes & peaches near Kalgan. Mon Sept 4: Cold night. The usual procession of card collectors. R.R. police – town police – soldiers – hsien ping. Drove us crazy. Usual bunk game – doubled the price in the morning – $2.80. To station at 6:20 & met a gentlemen in 2nd cl. ticket office. Sold me 3rd class tickets instead of making me wait in line. – “Bureau of For. Affairs” wanted cards. Besides him, only soldiers this A.M. Got to Ta T’ung unexpec. at 1:15, in the midst of lunch. To hell with Ta T’ung Fu. On with the war. (Line follows rivers – yest. & to-day). Today rich bottom lands, barren hills. Section of Gt. Wall (mud) paralleled to line. Didn’t get warm till noon. – Ta T’ung to Fêng Chên – flat & uninteresting – Got off at Fêng Chên & had a hell of a fight over tickets. The station master upheld us in our iniguity, & we had all the face. – Started back at 4:50. – To start the train – 12 R.R. police & 2 off. – 20 sol. & 1 off. – several M.P.s. Laughed at the ticket puncher, & got the police laughing at him too. He nearly broke his punch – Rode in 2nd cl. coach on 3rd cl. tickets. More mud sec. of Gt. Wall near Fêng Chên. This section – sparse crops, some herds. Wide open views, like Wyoming. Ta T’ung at 6 – walked to the city and got up on wall. Rush of bings for cards. When we came down they were busy so we slipped past. Glacé white potatoes for chow. Mild night. – ($1.30) Tues Sept 5: Up at 5:30 & to train. Bummed 2nd cl. seats on 3 cl. tickets. Pretty valley. Kalgan at 12. 2 bandits in wooden shackles. To inn. Chow of glacé potatoes, slept till 4:00 & walked around town. Usual dump. Pretty good stores – air of something doing everywhere. Petro. getting a fever – back to inn at 5:10 & turned in – Petro sick all night. Thunderstorm. I had a sweat & then O.K. Soup for supper. Wed Sept 6: Up at 6. Hot water for breakfast. Station at 7:00. Interminable ming p’ien’rh requests. Off at 8. The beady eyed little guy whose friend “brought gifts”. He was in luck – bowl of soup, kan ping 子 (tzu) – eggs, etc. etc. He took everything with conscious air (“see my rich friend”) & bugged it down. – The guy who squeezed in. Terrible strain on Chinese politeness – no room at all but he oozed in, after beady eyed guy refused to move in. Expression on fat man’s face was glorious – The old bitch who started to make a kid piss on the floor. I chased her to the jenny – called her a shèng k’ou. Nan k’ou at 1:30 – chinks constantly gorging themselves with all sorts of junk – sounds like a bn. of inf. in 6” of mud. Had some cocoa & sponge cakes. – Hot finish of tiresome trip. Wait at Hsi Chih mên – More fool “inspection” by coolie soldiers. Truculent, narrow-eyed, suspicious attitude of officers standing around on platform. A swarm of R.R. off. to get us off – 2 cars & an engine. Got home at 4:30 – had a bath & felt better. Thurs Sept 7: Krieg here – Went over me and said “stomach & nerves”. Got dope & started taking it. Chotch had 3rd shot of emetine. She’s much better.



Fri Sept 8: Told Petro. to beat it. – A.M. to town with Joe. The awful visit to Jap M.A. Cheney sat & sat till I thought he was stuck fast. Accomplished nothing. Sat Sept 9: Moyler, Powell, German Hosp. (pee O.K.) & M.A. office. Passport visé’d & to Jap tourist bureau. Drizzly in P.M. Sun Sept 10: Dull. Petro has a place. Touched me for $25. He left after dinner. Baldwin called. Mon Sept 11: A.M. to bank, M.A’s, etc. Got money. P.M. Tenney’s exam. Usual baby stuff. Poor showing on 600 tzu – otherwise fair. Tues Sept 12: Win & I walked to Yü Wang Fu (eye-glasses) – Then to M.A.’s & bank. No drawers to be had for Joe. Win has been busy getting his stuff ready for 3 days. P.M. Miss Bowyer in for tea. Wed Sept 13: A.M. took Joe out to school. Back by rickshaw. All A.M. getting ready. Went down ahead & got a haircut. Met Win & Joe. To T’ung Chow on 11 A.M. 1st cl. comp. all to ourselves. Got coolie & went over to school. Joe at once hooked on to the kids – 6 of them in his room – all of an age. Win & I picnicked – passed Joe, who casually said Hello. We left at 2:30 – Joe on fire to get away & play with the “fellers”. Acted more like a casual acquaintance than a son. We got rickshaws & leaving at 2:40, were in Peking at 4:30. First 6 miles in 48 minutes – 5 min. rest – then 6 miles in 53 minutes. Stopped 3 times, once for a permit, once for tea & once to let auto pass. At house at 4:40 – Packed up, had chow, & left at 7. – In stateroom (2 bunks) with man named Sutton (one hand gone). (Ticket 8.85 – berth 3.00 = $11.85) (Hsiao at house – ran him out. The tailor, the embroidery woman – all at last minute, of course). Thurs Sept 14: Fair night. Clear cool early morning. The sea looks good at Ch’in Wang Tao. One-arm slept late Shan Hai Kuan at 8:30. – Bought ticket to Mukden ($15.70). A Jap guardroom on sta. platform at Ch’in Wang Tao looks queer (R.R. guard 山海關 (Shan Hai Kuan) – Shanhai Pass) a washout. Disappointing view – the plain @ 3 mi. wide – good sized wall running across it – half ruined. The Gt. Wall winds over the high hills back of town. I thought the mts. came right down to the sea. – After 山海關 (Shan Hai Kuan), uninteresting, mostly flat or rolling. Distant hills parallel us on the west. Queer station names – 打虎山 (Da Hu Shan) – 石山棧(Shih Shan Chan), etc. 女兒河 (Nü Erh Ho). Dozed & ate & read & got off and walked etc. all day. 馬三家 (Ma San Chia). Arr. Mukden @ 7:30 – To Yamato Hotel. Talked with Sutton, ate at Jap. Restaurant & turned in at 10:45. (Chow etc. $2.00 – total – 29.55 & rickshaw $.50 – Total $30.00) Fri Sept 15: Magruder came in on A.M. train. Had breakfast together. A Miss Harrison, one of these damn “lady reporters” butted in & gave a solo till 9:30. “I speak Russian perfectly” 3 times. “I said to Chang Tso Lin” … “I told Gen. Dietrich” … & all that bull-shit. Had gone thro. all the usual terrible hardships, like riding on a handcar & being arrested. Exceedingly tiresome. (Magruder bought her breakfast.) Saw Magruder off & walked over to Chinese city. Big distances. Got rickshaw & rode thro. town. Couldn’t change I.B.C. notes anywhere but at hotel. (Rickshaw 50 sen an hour?) Back at noon. The glass-blowers. (The yao2 tze parade.



Some damned Jap festival to-day. Pee-rades & flags & silly maneuvering. About 100 taos running a chiao tze around & around & pushing it up & down with yells. Fox on top of float containing female orchestra – clowns riding freak bicycles). P.M. Sat talking till 3:00. Got Sutton introduced to Skidelsky & then walked to chink temple w. of town & all around by Jap war memorial (a boche affair), back to hotel, – 5:45. Tired. (No Chinese mail goes out from this buggerly place; only Jap mail. I went till I found a Chino letterbox, begod). The “processions” still going. – Sutton lost his hand at Gallipoli, catching grenades. Caught a quick one, & was lucky it took only his hand & not his head, too. Had chow early. Got Sutton talking (His experience at Chungking – rept off @ 1000 men with 1 stokes mortar & 5 dummies & 2 m.g. Caught by 3rd army, but had strikers of stokes mortars bunked on a Br. ship. Chinks let him go but got the strikers by holding up the capt. Sutton was making mortars at the Szechuan mint which he re-organized. – He was in U.S. developing trench mortars in 1917 & 1918. Had an 11” mortar, 6000 yds. range, 200 lb. bomb. – Tried Wu with his stokes m. but interp. said 250,000 instead of 100,000 & Wu turned him down. S. says they can’t use his guns because the powder mixture is his secret. – Gold mining in Heilung Kiang. – Had 5 yr contract – 50-50 – on 3 creeks in far N. W. Claims he is only foreigner to have gotten in there. Japs have lien on timber & mines as security on 20 million yen loan. – Big business chances here – Buzz of excitement in the air; everybody has a scheme to get rich, but there is always some drawback. Nevertheless with private ownership coming back in Russia, & these commercial conferences going on, there will be opportunities. – Sutton & his Lewis gun on auto – overland trip to Blagovestcheush from W. of Harbin (Tsitsihan?) – 480 miles – 6” tires on a Chandler car. Sat Sept 16: Left at 10:10, porter having everything inc. my hat on the train. Had a lower – comfortable night. 7 A.M. at 長春 (Ch’ang Ch’un). Had bread & coffee at sta. (6 mao!) & walked around town. Looks like Mukden New Town on small scale, but many more trees. The tiled-bathroom type of building prominent. All bldgs. substantial & new ones going up everywhere. The graft in Manchuria must be immense. – Droshkies in the streets. (The lady reporter buzzed around this A.M., giving me the benefit of her vast experience). Russians now numerous. – The big mut guards at Ch’ang Ch’en station. Hulking jew-like muts – Jap, chink & Russian police all here. The usual struggle off & on – 2nd cl. O.K. (Ticket to Harbin $8.30. – Had to change I.B.C. bills 19.60 for 20.00. – Fine information I got at Mukden. – Saw some white pigs to-day. – Every station has a fortified stone bldg. – Concrete, loopholed, tower forts at the river crossings. Sutton’s fart catcher – smokeless & noiseless. The name killed it, acc. to Sutton. “Send up two more fart-catchers.” Chewed the rag with a couple of chink soldiers & told them how rotten China was. The Big Boys listening in next seat. Harbin about 8:00. To Grand Hotel – 400 yds. Coolie kicked on 2 mao! Had chow & went to bed. Interpreter tried all ways to get me screwed & then gave it up. Rained in night. (Total 70) Sun Sept 17: Up at 6:30 – had cocoa & went to station at 8:30. Rahat – interpreter, very nice fellow – old regime Russian, formerly rich. Said he’d do his best to give me a good time if I came back. Wagons Lits car on – fine accom. – Rotten rainy day. Hard to see anything. Dozed. About 11 in a hilly district, small trees all over the hills, grass everywhere. Many Russians on farms along way. Ate an enormous lunch ($2.30) – Soup, roast beef, potatoes, beans, carrots, tomato salad, cocoa, ½ loaf of bread ¼ lb. pat of butter. Convalescent. Eng. speaking waiter – in U.S. “two-tree years.” – This not knowing the language is hell. (Total $128.00) – Noticeable air of sturdiness & independence in all the women. All seem to be going



somewhere or to have some business. Rush around in the rain – masker hat, shoes, stockings. Huskies carrying loads. Typical frontier women; apparently afraid of nothing. – The little stores at stations selling bread, pretzels, canned stuff etc. – Old women sitting with impassive faces behind a bowl of chickens, a pan of pickles, & a box of tomatoes. – Slept from 2 to 7! Got out & exercised at 橫 (?) 道河子 (Heng ? Tao Ho Tzu). Raw & chill. Cocoa, bread & butter for supper. Turned in early. Mon Sept 18: 5 a.m. at Pogoronichnaya. Took on an armored car last night. From Pog. downhill thro. hilly country – several tunnels. Gradekevo at 7:00; passports vised (at yen 2.80 apiece). Local graft. (Customs inspection at Pog.) Still dull & drizzly. A bridge blown down the line – must wait. A fine collection of Russkies here. If this is the Russian solider, I don’t wonder he gets the pee kicked out of him. – No wonder all Russians wear boots – they pick out the lowest, wettest spot in sight & build a town on it; all the houses being flush with the ground, and the streets nothing but mud lanes. Left Gradekevo & its guard of Merkuloff “soldiers” at 9:30 & poked along. Conductor says Vladivostok by 7 P.M., maybe. (Total $134.00) -- At Nikolsk, crowds of soldiers, mostly Lieuts, 2 trains headed east. 2 cits. apparently expostulating with K.O. @ something. (Evacuation?) – Japs at west 73 – not all out yet. Nikolsk quite a big town, muddy & flat like all the others. Followed a circle after leaving; it was in sight for 20 minutes. Open rolling country, river about size of Housatonic – small growth of trees, scattered. Hay crop; cattle; couldn’t see anything else. This P.M. towns closer & closer, population denser. At Umpsky-dumpsky a fine big lake, which we rounded. Bunch of matchbox Swiss chalet houses stuck around. Plenty Jap. But they look clean & trim compared to the dirty Russkies. – Bunch of bathhouses along the lake – app. a resort. About 4:00 approached a big town – (First River) – hundreds of R.R. cars. Town got bigger & bigger, then a steamer came into sight & I realized that the beautiful “lake” was the sea. Got a droshky who took me to Y.M.C.A. SOS. Went to Jap steamer & found she sails 20th instead of 19th. Got another droshky who took me up to Amerikansky Krasnie Krest. Mrs. Pray. Took me in; fine room, chink servants. – The Nikolaievsk massacre – 2 yrs. ago – Reds killed 900 Japs & 5 to 8,000 Russians, for no reason at all. Pregnant women dragged thro. streets so that they would give birth to babies for crowd to laugh at. School girls, 14 to 18, stripped naked & turned into streets for Red soldiers to bang around. Fine lot of people these Russians. (Trepitzin caught & shot. Nina, a crazy woman leader ditto. Lay for 2 days wounded in July sun, with no one to give her a drink.) Reds called in chink hunghutze to help, gave them the jewelry monopoly (2nd time over) of the town. – Gen Diderichs apparently has a grip on his gang (He gets Y300 a month; lieut. gets Y 4.50 a mo. Soldiers are satisfied & willing to fight). – Rumors of fight at Spasska (200 miles up), whites beat off reds. Asked them why they were fighting; they said they had nothing else to do. (Favorite trick at Nikolaievsk was to stand on a child’s foot, seize the other & pull it up over his head simply tearing him in two.) (Fugitives started for Blagovestchensk, all murdered on the way.) Mrs. Pray says the Russians haven’t any guts; when it goes against them, they all quit. – Chowed at 7:30. (Mr. Pray, Mr. McNaughten). Read till 11. Tues Sept 19: Slept till near 8. Beautiful day. Aloin came through. A.M. Stevens at breakfast. – Walked up onto highest hill & got an eyeful. The whole town, harbor & bay all spread out. Air like Monterey fall – bright sun with no headache in it. A gorgeous panorama if I ever saw one. The last town in Russia unlooted. – Easily defended by hills to N.E. – Japs digging away



on hill to west of town just at the Amur bay. The little bastards were farting all over town this A.M. (in American cars) posting M.P’s & sticking out their guts. Arrogant little shits; they need a kick in the slats the worst way. – Walked along most of Svetlanskaya; got a map. Shops full of everything – The biggest pears I ever saw anywhere. Back at house at 11:45 – pretty good hike for a convalescent. – After chow read awhile & as result got to steamship office too late – closed at 3:00. Climbed the hill again & got some pictures. After dinner, went to sailors’ dance hall with Mrs. Pray. Pop Merriam in command. Some hot styles of dancing. The little sailor with his knees spread apart. The skinny jewess with her shoulders back. The rabbit-faced “major” on inter-allied R.R. “technical board”, whatever that is. Nice place for the sailors, – reading room & restaurant. All chink servants. Back at 11. Wed Sept 20: Up & packed early. To S.S. office; the little shit wanted a visé. Over to passport place. Another little turd wanted to issue a new passport. I began to yell. Russian came out & said I needed nothing at all! Back to S.S. shit, who shook his mangy head & sold me a ticket (Y50). Back to house (Jap pee-rade, 3000 men, some in step – evacuating E. to W. No one knows what they are doing. Pray says impressing the town. 2 planes buzzing around. No ships in to take them off. Ragged flag in front of one reg’t.) Paid Mrs. Pray Y10, cross-stitch Y15, tips Y2.00. (Total today Y 77.00) Left the old red quilt for some needy Rusky & went to boat at 11. Damn cabin boy yelled “ticket” at me & made no move to take my bag. Then he gave my stuff to a coolie & charged me S20 to carry it to the stateroom. I yelled. No use. The cabin boy will smart for it at Tsuruga. Left at 12 – Bunch of Russkies on dock, kissing everything in sight. Sign of cross on the face, then jump in & kiss. Fairly suck the skin off. Men kissing each other on the mouth. I nearly got seasick before I started. Beautiful run out to sea past Russian island. – Only 2 japs & a russky besides myself in 1st cl. table. Good chow. Sat on deck in the sun all P.M. & baked.

– Pray says Interallied Technical Board a bunch of false alarms – wore uniforms, drew pay & pooped around. The japs have systematically bothered & annoyed Americans about passports. Had to have one guy fired. These damn people seem to go out of their way to make people despise & hate them, probably thinking they are inspiring respect all the time. (Dreams – Nance abducted by chinks & I chasing after the wagon, getting there just in time. Swimming & diving – jump off high rock & catch big wave at bottom – get slung up in the air & over next wave – 40 or 50’ high. Pulling Joe & Nance out of fire-place where they were burning their clothes, & hitting them.) Sat on deck till 10 – Fine evening, chill & bracing. Thurs Sept 21: Up at 7 – Had a fine hot bath, which I needed, & 2 breakfasts. Vacancies at the table – ship rolling a bit. Gorgeous day. Dubbed around all A.M. – P.M. same. Heavy swell rolled up & all the Russkies disappeared – sick as dogs. After dinner joined the russkies on topside & listened to them sing. Three callow youths going to Germany to study. Turned in at 10:30. Fri Sept 22: Up at 5 – to enter Tsuruga Bay. Fairly pretty, but nothing extra. Not the old thrill of Nagasaki, for instance. Y1 didn’t seem to satisfy the cabin boy. (Y2 tips & Y4 R.R. ticket) Train right at dock. – 8:45 – no change in ticket office! Pretty mountain scenery – several tunnels – 1 the longest in Japan, one mile – and out at Lake Biwa, at Maibara, junction. Wait of ½ hr. for Kyoto train – out at 11:15 along E. shore of Biwa. Rice all the way. Comfortable cars. At Otsu, so. end of Biwa, fine view of lake. At Kyoto at 1:30. Got a rickshaw & went to



Miyako Hotel @ a 20 min. run for Ch’ing. My guy took 55 min. & got Y1.40! He walked ¾ or more of the way, took his coat & put it on 4 times & made all sorts of fuss about small grades. These guys would starve to death in 3 days in China. 100 rickshaws at station; one man came for me. The town made a bad impression. Electric cars, dirty streets, & in one place a Great White Way!! Concrete bridges over river, concrete locks in the old canal, half-assed show windows, like E. 216th St., such things as an automobile damascened on a skag case! Filth in canal & river. Dinky little persimmons in stores, small assortment of vegetables & fruit. An air of decay at the hotel. Broken down walk going in (should come in auto, I suppose) torn bedspread – dingy floor coverings, dirty places not covered, or concealed – meal not dainty. Two or three things only recalled old impressions, – 2 priests begging & banging in unison on small gongs – a view up a side canal with balconies jutting out & flowers on them, – prints & curios in a few windows. The people are B.J., act as if they had been told & believe that they are the chosen people. They let you live, but it’s a great favor on their part. (I hope Chion-in will cheer me up; right now I don’t care how soon I leave. Hardly dare stop at Miyajima). Had tiffin, & an enormous one, at 2:30 – to 3:00, eating steadily. – Walked over to Chion-in up to top of mt., down & through Maruyama Park & back just at dusk. Out nearly 3 hrs. Bath – Dinner – Big Jap dinner behind screens. Much speechifying, bobbing up & down, bottoms up & bows. Good chow to-night. Well, I was all wrong. This noon everything was off color. Chion-in still has the kick. Very much so. As impressive as when we first saw it. The road over is swept & picked up, & wanders along, narrow & broad, up & down, aimlessly. Big pines hang their branches over it, & make a suitable approach for Chion-in. The temples all clean & well kept, the grounds beautiful, especially the woods in back, & the cemetery packed away in the woods. The big bell wasn’t at all where I thought is was. I violated the polished wood portico with my brogans. (Barbarous foreigner). Fine view from top of hill both N.E. & N.W. After soaking in Chion-in, I walked E. thro. a gem of a park (Maruyama) more & more surprised to find more temples beyond. The whole hill-side is lousy with them. Just lighting the lanterns in the tea houses in the park. Well-planned stream. – Including time up the mt. I walked 2½ hrs. & saw nothing but beautiful sights. I was afraid it was a frost when I blew in, but it turned out OK; could stick around indefinitely now. (Nagai went out of business 4 mos. ago. Went to Osaka). Got another view of the balconies along the canal, all with plants & dwarf trees decorating them. Clean looking display in most stores. Netsuke – 15 –20 – 30 – 35 yen! Sat Sept 23: Out at 9:00 to Kiyomizu – something we missed before. A wonderful place. They were landscaping some pools in the little stream in front of the built up temple. Cut-leaf maples everywhere. – Fine views – Little platforms lashed to the trees. Had some champagne cider (shellac, alas) – seated in the tree-tops. The place is more popular than Chion-in, but not nearly so solemn & quiet. Still, the endless ramifications & paths & stairways, etc. make it a gem. The streets leading up to it are lined with china shops & small junk like little toys, mostly in china. Found some photos after a hunt, & then went down to Shinmonzen & saw Nomura. Very pleasant, one price & reasonable. P.E. pearls, 3.80 for the best. Got Win a haori, Al a popgun & ? a little image. Netsuke are out of sight & none left. Looked at a screen, & said, “Well, I’ll wait till my wife sees it in the spring.” Roar of laughter from elderly couple. Lady said “You’re a wise man!” I said, I’d learned my lesson. Back to hotel for 1 o’clock chow.

It’s the unpainted natural color wood that helps to make the effect of cleanliness. Also pack a lot of stuff in a small place – rocks, plants, trees, moss, ponds, but keep them all in miniature & you’re all right.



Approached Kiyomizu thro. woods & struck a place as wild as Samar & similar in appearance. (Must watch my step about thinking aloud. The prawn. “I don’t mind biting your ass, but I draw the line on shit.” Not sure now if I didn’t mumble this aloud.) Mgr. wants Y50 a day for our gang! P.M. sat for an hour. At 3, stirred & walked over to the zoo. No goat in monkey cage (cage littered with sweet potatoes.) All long tailed monks now. Not nearly so active as the tailless kind. They were all pretty dopy, except one guy who had a new style of screwing, but who was so unconcerned & blasé that both he and the screw-ee kept looking around for the bully. (los. adm) – Fine lot of bears. – Base-ball going on in open lot, pretty rotten. Down to Shinmonzen & bought cuff-buttons & bamboo stuff. 1st customer at bamboo store (Ishi Shoten) (succ.) Up to Chion-In & mooned around – most beautiful place at dusk with evening light on the trees. Back to hotel at 6, & sat some more. These rickshaw coolies are the limit. I haven’t been approached once. Perhaps trolleys have knocked everything but the straw-hat gentlemen of the hotels, who never go so far as to sweat. Rotten rickshaws – big, high things with solid tires. ($260.00 gone.) Sun Sept 24: Out at 8:30. Looked around hotel garden – rather seedy – but easily picked up. Then out to Higashi Otani & watched the service. People came with presents & then knelt in a little pavilion while the priests droned a monotonous one-note chant. After about 5 minutes the crowd changed & a new gang came in. They must have a congregation of 1000’s a day. Beautiful setting – outdoors in the trees. – Went on east & up a ravine where the trees were 100’ high & so thick it was dusky underneath. Path went up hill like an old print. Turned back & went to Kiyomizu. Stopped at a curio store and got an agate fish & some little prints. (Y5.00) Fine piece of ivory carving in window for Y18. Crowds at Kiyomizu – must be a holiday – flags all out. Watched the crowds a while & then walked back to hotel & packed up. ($Y278?) Left at 1:30 – with a good runner – as they go – one yen to the station – 30 minutes. 2:37 to Osaka – a big dirty smoky overgrown town – disgusting to look at. Another hour to Kobe. – First view of sea & ships refreshing after Osaka. Found Motomachi was on the sea side of the R.R. I was all mixed up. Didn’t recognize the town at all. Found Nomura & got pearls. (4 strings for Y9.50.) Got some prints. Walked & walked. Ended up at the Tor Hotel – a four yen dinner – the best in Japan. Wrote the kids. Back to station at ten & on Motomachi, just off business section, there was the “Sanborn Hotel”. The place where the old Pleasanton was in all shirt & shoe & grocery stores – business spreading. Got some kashi and pulled out at 10:59. Saw the Russky girl who is screwing her way to Shanghai just as I left. Got an upper in a small size sleeper & sweat all night, waking up 6 or 8 times, on acc’t. of racket. Kobe is full of fine stores of all kinds; candy & cake stores etc. Naturally, being a big port. First kashi I’ve seen. Mon Sept 25: Up at 4:30 – bummed at station. Onomichi – till dawn, & then poked along looking for the Miyajima boat. The last dock up, of course, a mile away. Got a ticket, ate breakfast – 2 apples & 2 figs – & wandered around. Found a wonderful fish market – crabs & prawns till you couldn’t rest. Buckets of squid, squirming over the edges, beautifully marked pale lavender & green fish, eels, clams, sharks, etc. etc. Boat finally came at 8:15 & pulled out at 9:00. Very sleepy, went below to lie down – boy much put to it to get me to take off my shoes. Pretended I didn’t understand, & when he went for help, took them off. Big joke. Got a nap, & had lunch, unexpectedly furnished by the boat, with 4 japs, 2 men & 2 women. Big tub of good rice – crab, fish, & soup. Good chow. Surprised them by using the chopsticks. Got to writing 字 (tzu - characters), & found the matter complicated by fact they use different 字 (tzu),



though of same meaning, in various expressions. Went up top-side & exchanged a few ideas via 字 (tzu), to the great astonishment of the other passengers, who crowded around us densely. – Scenery is beautiful, but islands are not so jagged & on end as I expected, nor so well wooded. Still, I probably expected too much. Vistas & bays open up suddenly & give a pretty glimpse but many of the hills are mangy & this distracts from the picture. But as Yamaguchi says, you’re sitting in the picture yourself, & can’t expect to see it to advantage. – After lunch sat on deck all the way to Hiroshima – frequent small showers of rain. Just before Hiroshima, a strait @ 100 yds. wide between 2 islands – Throw a stone on either shore. – Cruisers, etc. at Hiroshima – one unfinished battleship, large size. At the landing at Hiroshima, all mixed up. One boy said get off, but I asked a cop, after long discussion, & he said stay on. So I stayed on. Marker where we go. If to station of Miyajima & not the island, it will be extra money for Korea. We unloaded freight from 4:30 to 7:00. Boy brought me another meal. Rice – fish - fried eggs – clam soup. Pretty sail to Miyajima, a new moon among the clouds. Weather cleared. Sure enough we lay to right off Miyajima, & I went ashore in a sampan. 50 sen was gratefully rec’d by cabin boy, so I added 20 more to it. Long walk to hotel, accompanied by a suspicious person who tried to take me another way & turned out to be a hotel coolie at the Miyaj. Came on the big torii just around a bend. The old boy was standing up at high tide as bravely as ever. Brilliantly lighted shops made pretty sight.

Found that old hotel had burned down & new one built 5 or 6 yrs. ago. Got the price list & picked out a 9 yen room. Fine hot bath. In bed at 9:30. Tues Sept 26: Up at 6. – shaved – out at 6:30 & walked thro. the woods & around the grounds till 7:15. 2 little monks on a pole. Deer walking around. Gorgeous place – big trees, clear brook, rocks, broad winding paths. (Rotten cotton dining room chairs everywhere. No support for back, no fit. Slide forward on seat) (The Castles – remembrances to Kroners – Perfectly disgusted with Japan. All temples). This hotel is pud. Wrong type – dining room in cellar. White plaster walls. Rotten table ware, linen & service. Rancid butter, etc. etc. 7 A.M. breakfast at 8 – after going out to kitchen & yelling. Jap girl in white 12 yr. old foreign dress, snuffling, waited on table. (What she didn’t bring I raped from next table.) Beautiful walk 9-11:30 thro. the woods & town & from one little promontory to another. Everything clean & picked up. No trolleys or concrete bridge or noise. Quiet & peaceful. Drizzly. Saw Jap sub sailing around. And at the temple on piles over the water they had a god damn live horse! 1 copper to feed him a little tray with a thimbleful of grain on it. If they wait for me to feed him, he’ll starve quick. – Fine views from the little promontories, over the town, strait, temples, etc. – The charm of this place is the quiet, besides its natural beauty. I could lie on the back of my neck here for mos. Like a damn fool I pulled out at 3:00 after a walk in the woods, caught the 3:30 ferry over to the R.R. (The little coolie explained that the tide was out last night & he was just tying to show me a shortcut. I thought he was trying to run me to another hotel.) Ticket to Seoul – 26.55. (will reach Korea with nearly Y100.) Pretty ride along the inland sea to Shimonoseki. Dark about an hour out, but moon came out & showed some pretty views. At Shim. at 8:50 & walked over to boat. Sheiagi Maru – a fine big fast boat, clean as a pin. Took a look down 2nd cl. gangway & decided to buy 1st cl. berth. (3.55) In with a French lad named Rondon (chasseurs, class of ’16). Walked on deck till we were out of the straits & then turned in. Lights of Shimonoseki & Moji. Regrets on leaving Japan. The japs are annoying but their country is certainly a beauty.



Wed Sept 27: Good sleep, smooth trip. Up at 6 & walked on deck till 8. Entrance to Fusan not imposing or especially pretty. Had breakfast at 8 with the impossible child opposite, & docked at 9. Inquisition on the dock – the usual fool questions. Chewed the rag with Rondon till train time. Out at 10, Seoul at 8 P.M.

Korea is certainly an anti-climax after Japan. (Sorry all day I left. But the money was ebbing.) – Just like China – bare mountains – attempts at re-afforestation – the valleys cultivated mostly in rice. Everything the same. No fine views or any grandeur. Small villages here & there – a few houses in each – thatched, curved whale back roof, with pumpkin vines trailing over them. Everything dirty around them. No gardens or flowers. A few Koreans here & there, leading a bull or carrying a load. General air of nothing doing. Fairly clean looking rivers, compared to China. Graves set in clearings on hillsides. Koreans all dressed in white, – baggy trousers, straw sandals – either the black stove-pipe or a big conical rain & sun hat. General impression, nothing worth looking at; nothing distinctive; nothing beautiful. Shit. Why didn’t I stay longer at Miyajima? Had a good tiffin for Y1.50 & a light dinner Y1.00. (Stupid waiter couldn’t savvy I wanted a glass after I touched one.) At Seoul went to Chosen Hotel by auto – seems like an A-1 place. Room & bath Y11.00. Randon a very nice, quiet young lad. (The guy with the corduroy riding pants & the long black boots. Ha ha.) Had a bath & turned in at 10. Thurs Sept 28: Breakfast about 7:15, out at 9:00. Cholera at Antung! May be trouble about quarantine. – Walked thro. jap quarter, which is a bum imitation of a real jap street & then up to the park on the hill, where they are building a fine observation point. Fine view of city & surroundings – all spread out. “Independence Arch” – the palace – Kan River etc. etc. Down along old wall to Nandaimon & through city to fine art exhibit – awful prices – some good-looking damascene. Back for lunch. Find it is O.K. to go out via Antung. – (The big mushroom hats the Koreans wear – right down over the shoulders.) Head shaved in circular patch on top – hair then down in a topknot. A black band around the head, a Happy Hooligan fly-trap hat with chin strap & he’s dressed. (The jap school. phys. culture for the girls. GOOSE STEP! Then 1-2-3-4-5-6-7-8. 4 steps to left & 4 to right. Took them half an hour to do it. Sprung in the knees, pigeon toed awkward, & ungainly things. The teacher was built like Tom Jenkins, legs like a piano & as graceful as a cow. “Ich – ni – san – shi – go – rok’ – shich’ – hach” On the boys’ side – they just fiddled around trying to form & march. Hopeless. Boys of 10 to 12. All they knew was the goosestep. They had a good pulling game. One kid to pull another out of ranks, around a marker & back. Sturdy kids all built like brick privies. The instructor had on a red & white “snake” tennis belt, white collar & cuffs, but no tie. It seems to be “haihara” to carry a cane, wear gloves & a straw hat, & have your socks down over your shoes. They are as yet pretty crude on dressing.)

P.M. Sat around till 3, wired Win for dough, & then walked up to old palace. Got in free – saved 5 sen! – because no one in ticket office. Went all over palace grounds. (“must not take pictures”.) The place must have been O.K. in its prime – now it is overgrown with weeds – no water in the lotus pond, walls broken here & there, japs & Koreans squatting in the buildings & raising vegetables in the Chiao T’ung Pu court. Fine trees on the grounds, good views of the hills, & one fine looking lou2 with a second story supported on high stone pillars. Everything very evidently imported from China. Back to hotel at 5. Petty annoyances Made to wait for meal on boat. Japs already eating. No one to carry bags on or off boat or train. Putting the extra passenger in same seat, plenty of room elsewhere.



Serving japs first, & out of turn, i.e. at ticket window, etc. – Open sneers met everywhere. Close scrutiny of papers. Insistence on lengthy questioning. Had chow – packed – left at 10:30, – porter took a yen & then the damn coolie came & tried to shake me down. Only I didn’t shake. Fri Sept 29: Had a comfortable lower opposite a tooth-sucking jap. Up at 6. Cold, snappy morning. The country up here far prettier than below. Pine trees, hills & crops all look better. Gensan at 6:30. – Rickshaw to the dock. Stupid policeman. Showed him my ticket & said Where’s the boat? but he couldn’t savvy. At dock, found boat would leave at 12 (!!!), instead of 8. Shit. Walked around town & came across a chink restaurant. It seemed like coming home. Had tea & cakes & an omelet (30 s) & the chinos were quite grateful for the 20 s. change. A clean place for a wonder. Back to dock. Fish market cleared out. Sharks & flounders mostly. – Old Korean hooking flounders 1 by 1 & putting them in a box, singing, while 10 others stood around listening. One scoop would have done the work in 5 seconds – (Get a “rittin” ticket – Return.)

Well, at noon I tumbled to the fact that we’d pull out as some indefinite time in the future. Jesus, all day long in this dump. I should have followed last night’s hunch & not come. We don’t leave until six, & make Ch’ang Chien about midnight. A bitch of a schedule. The bastards stole my package of cakes – damn ’em.

Koreans crabbing – fish hunt by entire assembly when a school of sardines came in, scared by something & jumped out of the water among the rocks. – 1 piece of string, 1 piece of wire, 1 piece of string, & 1 length of vine was one lad’s equipment. He caught a lot of crabs with it, too. Beautiful weather, bastardly japs. – (Pd. Y1.50 extra for 1st cl.)

Pulled out at 6 P.M. – 12 hrs. wait. – The harbor & surroundings are beautiful. Numerous islands close it in, mountains behind the town – A fine sunset to cheer me up. Turned in at 7 & slept till 11:30. Got dressed & lay down till 12:30. Ch’ang Chien – ashore at 1 A.M. Spent rest of night at a jap inn. Sat Sept 30: Y1.50 for the night. Good sleep, up at 6:30, out at 7:15 with a coolie. Reached Ouseiri Hotel at 9:15, & had chow. 10:30-12:30 walked over the hill to the monastery & up the valley a way. Back for chow at 12:30.

Jap logic “how much for the coolie?” “One yen 50”. “But it’s not worth it; I’ll give him a yen.” “But he says his price is 1.50.” “I don’t care what he says, what’s the regular price?” “O, the regular price is Y1.20.” “Then why did you tell me to pay him Y1.50?” “Well, anyway, you must give him 20 sen more.” Therefore the jap won, because I must pay more than I said. Asked him how much for a coolie for 1 day. “O that is different; we reckon by distance.” After insisting for a long time, he finally came out with it. One yen. I said, Yes I thought so, & gave him my best effort at contempt & sneer. Fine auto service. They let you rot all night & come down at their convenience in the A.M.

The pheasant – 6 hens & 2 cocks not 10 feet from me in the millet. I threw four stones at them & they actually didn’t fly till I hit one of the hens!

What does Kongosan look like? Like Monserrat, Spain, or Hsi Ling, or Lo Hua Shan, or places in the Rockies & Sierras, foothills of the Pyrenees. Jagged masses, with beautifully clear streams & well wooded lower slopes. Sunset colors very pretty. P.M. read a book “Burning Daylight,” took a little walk, & ate a big chow.



Sun Oct 1: Up early, chow at 6:40. Off up the hill at 7 – made the top at 9:25 – and a hell of a climb, too. They say 8 miles – probably about 6. Korean coolies along the trail. Beautifully clear water in the stream. Fine pools for a bath. View at top, – nothing – just a few rolling hills beyond. All the scenery is in the gorge going up. Began to rain at top, & I got wet. 2/3 down met my table boy with an umbrella! Some shock. In at 11:15 – 1 hr. & 40 min., & feeling fine. Hot bath. Boat IS coming. Had chow, left at 1:30 – boat came in at 3 – and stayed in – the bugger. No dope at all. Maybe another boat tonight, may not. This one brought Prince Hinky Dink, under Jap guard, on an excursion, with 5 or 6 women. He is the guy the japs watch most carefully; a reb, about 45, in rev. movement with both feet. Absolute quiet at his landing. Scrawny, wiry, looking guy. – Tremendous crabs at 長箭 (Ch’ang Chien) – 3 ft. across. Met a Mr. & Mrs. Underwood, of some Seoul college, out with 20 studes on a hike. They had some tales to tell about the japs. P.E. A map ordered from Eng. came in mail, was handed out the window, then pulled back & measured. ½”over proper length! Sent back to Eng. & shipped again by express. Charges, 76 yen. Empty box to go by mail. Contents? Nothing. Must be; here’s a blank for contents. Had to take it back & put some rags in it. Korean kids 5 days in jail for making flags. Lectured on discharge “now are you ever going to make flags again?” Pants down, shirts up, – every kid had a Korean flag painted on his belly. Bridge building – One good concrete arch in mid-stream & 2 causeways built out to it. These wash out regularly at every rainy season. But the japs never build the bridge right in the first place. Koreans extremely anxious to learn. Schools can’t handle the applicants. – Japs no longer impress labor for roads since 1919. – Jap inspection at school. Little cards hanging in studes’ rooms had to come down because it said “instruction in Japanese” & not “instr. in national language”. The damn idiots. Bunked in at the jap inn in front of dock. Read Chinese till 6:30 – & then ate a big chow. Rice, soup, potatoes, chicken, crab & raw fish. Big hunks of crab claw from spider crab. Went to bed at 7 – slept till 6. Mon Oct 2. Boat’s whistle at 7. Got out & stood around for an hour. High wind blowing. The “big” boat finally pulled out at 8. Me on her. One stop at Kotei. Beautiful day. Rough in A.M. Had a nap, & some jap chow. – Talked with Kimn – 4 yrs. in jail for reb. activities. Bright lad of 32. Docked at 4:30. Got a kid & jiggy & went to station & left bags. Back to the chino restaurant for chow. Walked around, & sat in station till train came at 10:30. Underwoods had a rumor the bloody train was taken off! Only for summer traffic. But she came. Got an upper – off at 11. Kimn came & looked me up and presented me with a pipe & a spoon. Most uncalled for. Tues Oct 3: Awoke at 5:30. Getting to be an early riser. In at 6:45. Checked bags after buying 3 tags to put on my own bags! To hotel. Washed – breakfast – shave – got Cheney’s wire. Picked up laundry & went to consulate. At 9 – clerk came in & said he thought I’d gone to Fusan, – he read the hotel book, but the fool didn’t ask. They wired I had gone back to Japan. – Got the money (Miller-consul) & beat it for station. Out at 10:30 with some bleating missionaries praising God loudly. – (The funny guy with the striped collar is a Belgian;



connoisseur on prints). (Sights on the Kan R. this A.M. – rafts of logs about 3’ long all lashed in long ladders). Good lunch, Heijo at 5. Nothing to see except the damn missionaries embracing one another. Korea is exactly the same at every place – rice land, low hills with scrubby growth, thatched houses. See it one place you see it all. Turned in at 8. Customs at Antung. Wed Oct 4: Home to-morrow. Up at 5:30 – too stinking & close. – three japs in the other bunks. Everything tight shut, & smoking those rotten jap skags. Mukden at 7 – & found it was only 6 – change in time. (The missionaries from Los Ang. wandering around – “Is the restaurant cheap?” Bumming hot water. Slept on the seats last night.) Chill this A.M. Got breakfast – bummed around – off at 10:20 ($15.65) – In with a customs stude named Burdick – (With R.A.F. during war). Knows everything – 22 yrs. old. Wish I was. (“I hear there is a vacancy in your office & I offer myself to be the vacant.”) P.M. dull – had chow, got off at Shan Hai Kuan & got ticket (8.70) ($3.00 berth) – Bed at 10. Thurs Oct 5: The missionaries sat up with the stink all night. Disgraceful affair for a white woman. False alarm at 3:10. Moon shining. Burdick thought it was daylight – Tientsin at 6:40. Breakfast. – Peking at 10:20. Win down to meet me with L.P. & extra transportation for “baggage.” Joe home with bad neck. Other kids looking fine. House papered, p’êngs down, new couch. – Article accepted by “Asia”. – $500 from Dad – Bub moved to Pelhamwood – Horsfalls over in P.M. Full moon, lovely weather!! Fri Oct 6: To bank & M.A. office. Still in charge of all language officers. Saw Baldwin; went over & listened in on his wireless – P.M. at home – beautiful weather!! Sat Oct 7: Horsfalls’ tea for Mrs. Hazzard. Came home at 9, changed clothes & went to Peking Hotel. Danced till 12:30. Home at 1 – Ordered a painting of the Confucius temple. Sun Oct 8: Home all day till 4:30. Walked down to Wagons Lits, & called on McLeans. He is the usual 1902 bunch representative – can talk only of himself, but can’t stop when once started. Mon Oct 9: Exams all day. Fisken, Kroner, Baldwin, Woodbridge. Latter pretty rotten. Baldwin nosing them out. Win walked over & we came back together. Joe off for school. Chao put him on his train. Tues Oct 10: Took a lesson all A.M. Tiffin at 1. – Mrs. Hazzard, Horsfalls, Baldwin & Woodbridge. P.M. looked for school-house. 8:30 dinner at Horsfalls. Did not sit next to Mrs. Peck, thank God. 10:30 to Wai Chiao Pu, Kou’s reception. Danced till 12 or so. Home at 1. Win the belle of the ball. Wed Oct 11: Lesson in A.M. P.M. Petro. turned up. Win & I & he walked down to Tai’s. Prices up out of sight. To Austrian Legation to see kids dance. Hartung’s & home by rickshaw. Thurs Oct 12: Lesson in A.M. Win scoutes for nurse. No luck. Lesson in P.M. till 5 P.M. Miss Houghton & Perrin called. Will stay with kids Friday night. To Philoons for dinner. Lees, Horsfalls, Mrs. Hazzard, Dr. Webster & us. Home at 12. (Pettus & the 2 Doctors; “torturing” dogs.)



Fri Oct 13: Up at 6:30. To Horsfalls & by car to Hsi Chih Men. Met Colemans – 8:39 train out to Ch’ing Lung Ch’iao. Climbed to top of pass on the wall & ate lunch. Beautiful day & view. The wall shows up to great advantage from topside. Back by 3:00 P.M. train to Nan K’ou. Went to old Ching Er Hotel. Had Chinese chow & turned in early. Sat Oct 14: Up at 5:30; chow at 6. – off at 6:20 in cool gray of the morning. Helen yelled for a chair at once. Horsfall furious because she wouldn’t ride a donk. Win walked & rode. Reached big p’ai lou about 9. Yung Lo’s tomb about 10:30. Took pictures on the stone animals. Had lunch at tomb. Started back at 11:15 & made town as the train came in. Settled up & pulled out at 2:05 (Total expense – @ 16 beans). At Peking met car half-way home – At house by 4:30. Miss Perrin & Houghton spent Friday night with kids. Mrs. Tenney over on Sat. A.M. to look in. – Joe home about 6:45 with Charles Leonard, a nice kid. Been spanked again – room in bad shape. Neck better. Promoted to 7th grade in arithmetic. Ming Ling not in it with Hsi Ling. Sun Oct 15: Had Kuan in A.M. for 2½ hrs. Win feeling kind of punk. P.M. to Peking Hotel for concert, a very good one. Stopped for Helen & Mrs. Hazzard. Mon Oct 16: Exam all morning. P.M. examined Woodbridge. Horsfalls appears a bit peeved over exam. He corrected my pronunciation this A.M. – for the last time. Joe & Leonard kid back to school. Peace. Walked on wall with Win. Tues Oct 17: Exchange is 186. Exam continued – Finished about 4:30 P.M. Down for haircut – holiday. – Told Horsfall where he got off today, presuming to correct people’s pronunciation!! Told him he was too rotten for that kind of stuff. – Evening to H’s for Chinese chow – very good, but twice too much. Wen sent Pêng over to watch. Wed Oct 18: 12th ANNIVERSARY. Well begun, anyway. Walked to town. Deposited “Asia” check for $100. Saw Sister Katherine & got some Wei Hai Wei teapots, ordered Marmot. Bank & M.A. office. Saw Tenney. – P.M. Lamps wired up. – Mrs. Tenney called – also Mrs. Meade. Haircut. Met Win after her lesson. Lecture by Li on Squeeze & How It Ought to be Run. Thurs Oct 19: Chinese all A.M. – Took a 10% squeeze from the shoe man, who smiled but said nothing. P.M. dinner – Kroners, Horsfalls, Hazzard, Woodbridge, Petro, Baldwin. Met Miss Houghton & Perrin at hotel (Wagons Lits) – they had a dinner date. Danced till 1:30. Had just one dance with Win, & it made me mad. Home at 2. The Wagons Lits has it all over the Peking for music. Fri Oct 20: Chinese all A.M. P.M. Win & I went to M.A. office. Got after Magruder @ holding out on my expenses. To institute to Miss Keith’s exhibition of prints. Got three. Damaris came to spend the night. Sat Oct. 21: Home all day knocking out a story – Win to town in P.M. Joe home alone; kids couldn’t come. Dinner with Petro & Sapozhinkoff. – danced at Peking Hotel. Two Rooshian dames – Mrs. Martuisen & Karastovietz. I must learn to dance. 2 A.M.



Sun Oct 22: Home in A.M. Afternoon to Peking Hotel concert as Mrs. Hazzard’s guests – a fine one. Read in evening. Mon Oct 23: Mrs. Philoon here for tiffin. Kids’ music. Joe went back to school – first touch of homesickness. Walked over to Miss Heyman’s & made a date. Tues Oct 24: Win shopped. P.M. called on Ruddocks – out. Dancing lesson at 5:30. Not so rotten as I thought. Wed Oct 25: No lesson in A.M. Walked down to legation on the wall & saw Ruddocks off. Big crowd & band there. To Baldwins to see his $1 a foot rugs. Lesson in P.M. Win to dancing lesson. Mrs. Hazzard in Syracuse wants some buying done. Easy money. High wind today. Thurs Oct 26: Trimmed up on article for Asia yesterday. Wheeler says Galovlen is no good. Finished up “Rambling along Chinese Trails” & got it off. P.M. stayed home. Fri Oct 27: A.M. Chinese. P.M. ruined by callers. Helen, L.P., Mrs. Hazzard. – Dancing lesson 5:30. Win to town in P.M. Sat Oct 28: Wrote all A.M. “Shave-tail Odyssey”. Sister Katherine called – and talked. P.M. walked to Fiskens’ to see new baby. Joe in. P.M. dinner at Peking Hotel. Danced till 12:30. Pep engaged. Sun Oct 29: Walked around the wall. All of us, Horsfalls & Hazzard. 1 donkey for the kids. – Horsfalls & Hazzard quit at Ping Tzü Mên, after lunch. Win stuck it out all the way around. Left at 8:30, back at 3. (Doot came back from P’ing Tzu Men, Nance & Joe went on with Win & me.) – To concert at Peking Hotel, a good one. (O, yes, Helen could go to a dance.) Mon Oct 30: High wind. Lesson in A.M. Mrs. Philoon called. Dancing lesson. Joe went back to school. Tues Oct 31: High wind. L.P. over. Jui pulled off. We went to see Pettus, but he wouldn’t make any arrangement. Win to tiffin at Schurman’s. Kuan over in P.M. Dancing with Win at 5:15 – Mrs. Hazzard over for dinner. Wed Nov 1: Lesson in A.M. Win & girls over to Horsfalls to see silks. Tiffin at Philoons with Cheneys. To Shoemakers to see rugs. Petro & Sapozhinkoff out for tea. Sapo sang. O, boy. Thurs Nov 2: Lesson in A.M., 18,000 interruptions. Win’s gray rugs came. P.M. Chang, silk man. – Woodbridge & Hamilton’s dinner – danced at Wagons Lits. Win’s new dress made a hit, & just escaped ruin when Woodbridge dumped over a bottle of water on it. (Miss Shurman, Cushman, Wood, Mrs. Bullard, Mrs. Dunlap, Bullard, Wilson, Capt. Johnson, Br.). Mrs. D is pants crazy, or bachelor crazy – acted like a fool over Hamilton. Fri Nov 3: Lesson in A.M. Tada for tiffin. To station about customs, on a box from Tientsin Comsy. The bastards wouldn’t pass it, must have a letter, god damn ’em. To silk street till 4:30,



pottering from one store to another. Tada doesn’t know what she wants. Late for dancing lesson. – Win stopped at Horsfalls’ for tea. Sat Nov 4: Wrote letters all A.M. P.M. walked down to meet Joe. Missed him. Stopped at Horsfalls to arrange about races. P.M. Horsfalls came over & danced; then to hotel & danced till 12. Sun Nov 5: A.M. wrote letters. After lunch, went out to races with Horsfalls. Usual sights. McLean retired. (Mrs. Hazzard wants to get Hazzard transferred to China.) We won $15, ½ interest, on a placed horse in the champions. Home at 6. Mon Nov 6: Lesson in A.M. P.M. specked awhile. Dancing at 5:30. Win down for shampoo, & to tea at Horsfalls. Mrs. Haywood there. Win organized the bachelor dinner in P.M. & wrote the invites. Tues Nov 7: Rotten wind. Lesson in A.M. P.M. to Lung Fu Ssü with Win, Mrs. Heywood & L. P. Cold as hell. Win got jade rings. Dancing lesson. Class afterward. Wed Nov 8: Wind down. Lesson in A.M. P.M. wind again. Wan came. Horsfalls called in P.M. – To dinner at Horsfalls. Big crowd (tables in bedrooms) – Danced afterward at Peking Hotel (Home at 1, Al 7 hrs. ahead of us). Thurs Nov 9: Lesson in A.M. Win had tea for 12 in P.M. Schurman girls & guests (Wood, Cushman, Sleeper) Tenney, Horsfall, Philoon, Miss Johnson. Read ’em some scandalous poetry. Evening to Baldwins house-warming. Tada was about as rude & loud & coarse as possible. To dance at Wagons Lits. Home at 2. The monkeys were very enjoyable. Otherwise we felt as if a barrel of garbage had been dumped all over us. Fri Nov 10: Dead tired. Lesson in A.M. P.M. had a nap & went to dancing lesson. To bed early. Sat Nov 11: 4th armistice anniversary. Fine weather. Win did errands. Mrs. Philoon for tiffin – we walked on the wall with her. Joe came in at 7. Sun Nov 12: P.M. concert at Peking Hotel. Rooshian baritone. Lukauin sang. Powerful voice. Sat by ourselves, thank God. Mon Nov 13: Lesson in A.M. Let Nance off to play with Joe. P.M. to Cheneys’ for dinner, to Powder Puffs afterward. A punk show. At dinner – Horsfalls, Mrs. Hazzard, Baldwin, Cheney, & us. A perfect mess. Something is up. “We have room for one” says Helen. Win & I rode down to show in rickshaws. Baldwin went to dinner on motorcycle. Helen sent a note to Win that they were going to take him so couldn’t take us! Tues Nov 14: To town in A.M. Accomplished nothing. Cheney busy. Post office not working. P.M. to dancing. Horsfalls there – queer atmosphere still.



Wed Nov 15: To town in A.M. Saw Cheney @ efficiency reports. Heymans’ kids here in P.M. for tea. To legation in evening to hear a lot of poops gush @ the Peking University. A sickening affair. Puky. Thurs Nov 16: Lesson in A.M. Win called on Helen & Jo Tenney. Dinner at Kroners’. Win & I went to Wagons Lits and danced till 1:15. All by ourselves at last. Fri Nov 17: Lesson in A.M. Walked to Wagon Lits with Win to borrow glassware for Sunday. Stopped at dentist’s. – Smith kid has scarlet fever. I got a haircut. – Doot scared us by starting a fever. To bed early. Sat Nov 18: Doot & Nance both in bed – feverish – headaches. I wrestled with checkbook all A.M. Win to clock-store. Snow. P.M. Helen & Tada called. Joe home at 7. We didn’t go out. Sun Nov 19: Most of day getting ready for party. P.M. Win & I walked over to Philoons to ask @ the wine. Evening, all on hand except Cheney. Fine dinner. Sapo sang & Baldwin played. Broke up at midnight. Hired a new boy (Lu) to help Chao. Mon Nov 20: Rotten day. – Kids off color all day. General hell to pay. Win took Joe to train. Tues Nov 21: Worked on Bullock. Noon Win & I to tiffin at Patterson’s. Very pleasant. Bennetts, McLeans, Josselyn, Bradley, Miss Averitt, Miss Thendumey, lady giantess. I went to dentist’s office afterward. P.M. Win to dancing. Wed Nov 22: A.M. Win to Peking Hotel to look at kimonos. Helen called. Kids to dancing – Win took them. Movies in P.M. at Pavilion. Thurs Nov 23: Studied – A.M. and P.M. Win took kids to dancing. Note from Howell ’15. Fri Nov 24: Up early. To Wagons Lits & saw Howell. – (Petro, Sapajon, Mills, etc.) Petro off to Shantung – rode down to Tientsin with us. Off on 10:15. Had tiffin with Petro on train. At Tientsin went to Court Hotel & then out shopping. Handicraft Shop & Lace stores. Had tea & went to Ta Lun’s – looked up Kiessling’s. Also Hall & Holtz. Very cold. Turned in early. Sat Nov 25: Colder yet. Shopped around all A.M., dodging in to warm up occasionally. After lunch went to field in rickshaws. Bitter cold day. Marines won easily 30-0. High wind. Win sat with Mrs. Tenney & Mrs. Neal. Back by auto. Changed, packed & had tea. To station at 6:00. Train 2 hrs. late. Back to Belmont Hotel for more tea, off again at 8. Got in special car, made down bunks. Win & Mrs. Tenney went to sleep. So did I. Peking at 1. Home at 1:45. To bed after more eats, at 2:20. Kids all turned out to see us. – The 2 drunk Marines at the station “Stanton – Stanton – Stanton!” “I’m very glad to meet you, etc. etc. etc.” – Terribly cold coming home. Sun Nov 26: Still cold. Home all day. Kids to Heymans’ for tea. Horsfalls here for tea.



Mon Nov 27: Milder. Lesson in A.M. Win brought Howells (’15) out for tiffin. P.M. we walked down to Legation qr. Sapojnikoff not in. Win had hair treatment. Saw Eltinge at M.A. office. Got news of Army winning game. Horsfalls in to tea. Early to bed. Tues Nov 28: Mild. Lesson in A.M. P.M. Win to town—met at Tai’s and went to Cheneys’ to see baby. Tea. Wed Nov 29: A.M. lesson. Win to town. P.M. studied. Took a nap. Evening, dinner for Misses Wood, Cushman, Shurman – Horsfalls, Patterson, Woodbridge & Baldwin. Woodbridge drunk, & Baldwin pie-eyed with a cold. Fine dinner & lively time afterward – playing charades. All the girls good sports. Thurs Nov 30: Joe home yesterday with Chas. Leonard. A.M. studied. Noon – dinner at Horsfalls with all the kids. – P.M. to Wagon Lits, for dinner (punk) – & dancing. Gen. Hagood there. – Nice party. At 12 left for home. Nance all right so we went on to the doings. Just in time (1:30) to see procession going for the bride. (Concubine already rec’d yesterday.) Gorgeous chairs – with Manchu escort & police & pings along side. – Lanterns & moonlight – no foreigners made it seem like old China back again. Back to house for refreshments till 4 A.M. then to Forbidden City just too late to see the doings. A polite old Manchu gave us the dope & we went home. 5:15 bed. Fri Dec. 1: Slept till 9 – studied a little. In P.M. walked down to bank. – Ran up and down between banks. Cashed in at Asia (188.25). Looked in at Peking Hotel at sale, nothing worth while. Sat Dec 2: Fiddled around & studied in A.M. In P.M. – Sister Catherine, Helen & Sapajon in. Made a deal with Sapajon. P.M. to Chen Kuang. – “Theodora” – a fine film. – Afterward to Peking Hotel for a claret lemonade. Didn’t go in to dance – (Tickets $2 each). Home about 1:00. Doot’s birthday. Sun Dec 3: Around home all A.M. 2:30 to football game. Another rout for the 15th Inf. –no quarterback. – 27-0. Mon Dec 4: Lesson in A.M. P.M. read & studied. Win to town in P.M. Joe back to T’ung Chow. Baldwin called at 5. Tues Dec 5: Lesson in A.M. Finished T’an Lun Hsin Pien. To town at 3– missed out at bank. Got a blanket for Hsiao. Left lamp shade to be changed. Win to dancing. P.M. dinner at Magruders! (Slacks, Bullards, Wilson, Miss Wood, Shurman, Cushman, Mrs. Andrews, Col. Smallwood) (Ed. Mills). Then to legation & danced, at least Win did, with all the guys. Home at 2. Wed Dec 6: Home all day. Helen & Mrs. Fisken in in P.M. Thurs Dec 7: Sent Kuan home. Win arranged & inventoried stuff. Porters around all day.



Fri Dec 8: Lesson in A.M. P.M. Win took kids to Brit. Bazar at Wagons Lits. – also Heymans. Horsfalls to dinner & all to hotel in evening. – Cabaret show amateur. Leinta Heymans danced well. Pretty good singing. Home at 1:30. Sat Dec 9: Had Kuan all A.M. P.M. around house. Joe came home at 7. Sun Dec 10: A.M. home. P.M. to concert at Peking Hotel. Very good. Al yelled all night. Mon Dec 11: Lesson in A.M. Win to town. The Ferguson party we regretted includes the Cheneys & Woodbridge. Deep gloom hereabouts. P.M. called on McLeans & Horsfalls. Win to Torrances’ tea. Tues Dec 12: Lesson in A.M. P.M. Haircut. Evening to Slacks’ for dinner. Slacks, Ed. Mills, Abbott & us. Refined & quiet for once. Balled up the time & came home at 11. Also Louise Wood! writes! Wed Dec 13: Lesson in A.M. Kids to dancing. Win & I walked down & called on Woodbridge. Ordered watches. Forgot to call on Mrs. Bennett. Evening a wonderful movie – Norma Talmadge in the “Sign on the Door”. Thurs Dec 14: Lesson in A.M. P.M. Barbara Schurman & Miss Cushman called about the Christmas cabaret. Joe got home very late. To Wagons Lits with Horsfalls & danced till 2 A.M. Fri Dec 15: Up at 9 – Sent Kuan home. Win to Kung Ch’ang & dressmaker. Girls to music. – Kuan in P.M. 7:30 to bed. Sat Dec 16: Win to Heymans. COLD. P.M. walked in & did errands. Russian sale. Hartung – toy store, etc. etc. P.M. dinner at Horsfalls’ at 8:30. Afterward to Peking Hotel & danced till 2 A.M. Horsfalls, Woodbridge, Leaber, Stevens, Miss Jones & Perrin. Home at 2:45. Sun Dec 17: Up at 9:00. Bummed around. P.M. to concert at Peking Hotel – 8:30 – to “boxing & wrestling” affair outside Ch’ien Mên. A stable of burlies tore each other to pieces till about 11 P.M. (Baldwin & Horsfalls.) Mon Dec 18: Lesson in A.M. P.M. Cheney’s reception to al1 officers & hot air for 2 hours. – Wants me to go to Kalgan. Went over to Wagon Lits & danced. Woodbridge & Petro & Horsfalls. 9 P.M. to Heymans’ for dance & supper. Had some dances with Win, but got paired off with a skunk for supper. We broke away at 12:30, dead tired. The armpit sweat stink nearly asphyxiated me. I had bad dreams all night. Tues Dec 19: Sent Kuan home. P.M. to legation for exam of Smythe & Chamberlin. Evening – Miss Cushman & Woodbridge to dinner. Danced at Peking Hotel till 12:30. Wed Dec 20: Lesson in A.M. Fisken at 2 P.M. for exam. Girls came to practice dance.



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Thurs Dec 21: Lesson in A.M. Evening to Wagon Lits with Horsfalls at 10 – & danced till 1:30 or so. Manning back from Urga. Fri Dec 22: Lesson in A.M. Tiffin at Kirks’. Met the Bells & some tourists. Strange assortment but a pleasant tiffin. Shopped on way back. At six, to legation for rehearsal. Sat Dec 23: Lesson in A.M. Finished Bullock. P.M. Final shopping. Six P.M. to legation for rehearsal. 8:30 Horsfalls’ dinner. – MacLeans & McNeil. A frost. Afterward to Peking Hotel & then to Wagons Lits to the masquerade. Left about 2:30. My feet have swelled up, too much baile. Sun Dec 24: A.M. at home. P.M. took Nance to Peking Hotel for concert. – (Woodbridge was sent to Kalgan in my place. Cheney in yesterday to talk it over, & I fell out in his favor.) Mon Dec 25: Christmas. Began at 5:30 & kept up all day. Doot didn’t think it was much of a day; wanted some more presents. Cable from Pep, from Paris. Dinner with Leaber, Bailey, Johnston, Petro, Horsfalls & us. L.P. & I practiced Bosko. At 7:15 to legation to get ready for cabaret. About 60 people present – good show. Mrs. Joscelyn, violin, Neal, coon stories, L.P. & I in Bosko the Mind Reader, & the girls’ dance. There was nothing to it but Win. Punk dinner, which I didn’t eat at all. Hofer got his from Win who changed seats with Chamberlin. The insolent bastard. Home at 12:30. Tues Dec 26: Home all day. Li & Chao had a scrap yesterday in the dining room. Must fire some one. Wed Dec 27: To M.A. office – saw Philoon. Cheney’s proposition to stay over as Asst. M.A. The kids put the kibosh on that – all burst out crying at the thought. Thurs Dec 28: Barbara & Cush in to say good-bye. Walked on wall with Win & Joe. P.M. dinner at Horsfalls’. “Enter Madam”, at Pavilion. A very good show, especially Mr. Mieville’s pants. He had a fine opening – Afterward to Wagons Lits deadly dull. The tugboat & the horned toad got on Win’s nerves. Home at 2:00. Win cut Hofer – fine business. Looked up a no. 1 boy. Fri. Dec 29: Win down to see girls off – the new No. 1 arrived – (Chao). Chao left after lunch. New boy doesn’t like his room. Left at night & never showed up again. Sat Dec 30: Cold and windy. The mix up about Mills & Mills – Lt. Mills regretted the invite, Eddie Mills never got it. Woodbridge for dinner. Afterward to Peking Hotel till 2:00. Our table was the gathering place for single men. Free of tugboats and horned toads for once. Wood in took us down and back in a machine. Sun Dec 31: Dinner at Horsfalls’ with all the kids – very good one. Took Nance to concert at Peking Hotel. To bed early!!!!!



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