How to Construct the 8-Point Star by

Jay S. Helland 1-6-2013

The photos in these instructions were not taken to provide the reader the general idea of the processes used and does not follow the order of one medallion from start to finish. The process for constructing an 8-pt. star medallion is as follows:

1. Rip contrasting colored wood strips 3/8” to ½” wide by ¾” thick and about 12” to 24” in length (depends on how many stars you want to make). Cut and additional strip of wood for layout purposes.

2. Cut a 45 degree miter on the end of each strip of wood either on the table saw or miter box saw.

3. Layout: the 8 pt. star segments are parallelograms, so lay one of the other strips on top making sure the edges are flush with the miter cut. This is where the additional strip of wood the exact thickness is a huge help. (See Photo)

4. How to create the parallelogram segment. Scribe with a sharp pencil or knife the size of the segment, which is the width of the stock.

Layout of Parallelogram Segment A pencil was used to highlight the scribed line.

5. There are three ways to cut out the star segments but they all start by cutting a 45 degree angle on the table saw or miter box saw. First method; cut a 45 degree angle on the end of the board. Layout the parallelogram and rough cut on of the stars segments on the band saw and grind down to the layout line using the disc sander. This method will require you to re-cut the 45 degree miter for each segment and repeat the layout. Second method uses a band saw miter gauge sled (see photo). Lightly sand the band sawed surface before gluing. Trust me you can get a very suitable surface using a band saw. Using a disc sander, sand to the layout line. Third method uses the table saw with a miter sled. Set a stop block on the wooden fence so that the cutting process is repeatable.

Band Saw Sled Table Saw Sled

6. Glue two of the segments together unit there are 4 pairs. After the glue sets up, glue the two pairs together to create two halves. You should always lightly sand any glue off the surfaces to keep flush for the next glue ups.

7. Infill Process: Now that you have an 8 point star you are ready to begin infilling with the contrasting colored wood. Lay the star on top of the wood to be used as the infill material and scribe the joint. Rough cut the wood on the band saw and then sand to the scribed line using your disc sander. Check the accuracy of the cut by back-lighting the piece checking for gaps. If the fit of the intersection is acceptable, glue the in-fill. I use rubber bands for the clamps. Repeat the process until all gaps are in-filled. Lightly sand as needed to keep both surfaces flat throughout the process.

8. Using a compass draw a circle on the glue up onto what I call the “hockey puck”. Rough cut on the band saw to create the circle. .

9. Sand the top and bottom sides of the assembly on the disc sander. It’s important to get the

two faces parallel to each other. Use a veneer height gauge or at depth gauge to scribe the edge of the accessibly and then sand the face until it is parallel.

10. Using 1/8" Baltic Birch plywood, glue the plywood to both sides of the hockey puck (making a sandwich) be sure to keep the sides and edges square to each other. I use a small square and the fence of my jointer or table saw to align it. Hold the assembly by hand or a spring clamp until the glue gets tacky enough that it won’t get out of square while you place some additional spring clamps on the assembly.

11. After the glue has dried, resaw on the band saw so that you have cut a 3/16" thick segmented inlay.

12. Smooth the band sawed face of the hockey puck on the disc sander keeping the two faces parallel.

13. Glue another piece of 1/8” Baltic birch plywood to the hockey puck making another sandwich and repeat steps 10 and 11. It is possible to get 3 segmented inlays pieces out of one hockey puck.

14. Center the medallion on the long axis of the lathe (see photo) and then draw a circle on the

wooden faceplate around the rough circumference making sure that there is a registration mark. Remove the faceplate from the lathe and place two or three 1/8" glue dots (CA or yellow/white glue) on the back of the medallion. Using the layout lines, center the star on the faceplate and clamp letting the glue dry for at least 45 minutes if you used white of yellow glue. Make sure that the faceplate you are using has been faced off and is clean of debris before gluing on the medallion.

15. Place the faceplate back on the lathe and with a parting tool or skew lathe chisel cut into the

medallion from the face but not the side. Cutting from the face of the medallion will make it symmetrical without creating the shear stress that cutting from the edge will create.

Formatted: Font: (Default) +Body, 11 pt, Fontcolor: Auto

16. Using a putty knife or 5 in 1 tool, separate the medallion from the face plate. Sand off glue from the back of the medallion.

17. Once you get the medallion round you're ready to cut the recess in the bottom to receive the medallion. The recess depth should be at least as deep as the thickness of the medallion.

18. Turn a mortise in the bowl bottom the exact same diameter of the medallion.

The photo below is how to registering the bowl bottom on the lathe before gluing it to the wooden faceplate. 

19. This photo below illustrates how the bottom and the bowl match before gluing. The tenon has been turned to fit the mortise in the bottom of the bowl.

 

 

Clamping Technique Using Weights 

 

 

The photo above shows the bowl ready for facing off the top rim before the top ring is glued to the bowl. 

 

More Medallion Designs to Consider 

 

The Completed Project!