how to use this lillygiggle pattern - pdf sewing patterns ... · how to use this lillygiggle...

How to Use ThisLillyGiggle Pattern

Step 1 - Print this entire packet. Be sure that your printer settings say to NOT scale or reduce/enlarge images. THIS IS VERY IMPORTANT. Please see your printer owner’s manual if you need help with this step. Our pages are set up with a 1/2” border (at least) around all pages, so you should be able to print the entire page without anything getting cropped off. Again - PRINT EVERYTHING at 100%.

Step 2 - Sort it all out. Our pages are, numbered and sequenced, and keeping them in order is reasonably important.

Step 3 - Separate the pattern pages from the tutorial pages. The tutorial pages have the LillyGiggle logo and web-site at the bottom. The pattern pages have a lighter, thinner blue outline.

Step 4 - Cut out the pattern pages. Cut around the light blue, dashed border.

Step 5 - Line up the pattern. We use dots at the corners of the pages in order to help you align everything and get it all put together properly. We’re also including a diagram below to help out. If you match stuff up and you have a dot that is one color on one half and another color on the other, you’ve got them wrong. It should be pretty easy.

Step 5 - Tape everything together. Putting it all on one side and then turning it over and taping on the back helps keep everything in place. Be sure to run your tape from edge to edge of the whole pattern so that when you cut everything out, it stays together where it’s supposed to.

Step 6 - You’re ready to get cutting your fabric & get to sewing!

PAGE LAYOUT for THIS PROJECT

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This pattern, tutorial and all imagery and photography is the exclusive property of LillyGiggle and is copyrighted. All rights reserved. Any portion of this pattern or tutorial

may not be used, whole or in part, without express written permission.

You may not resell this pattern, tutorial, or any portion thereof. You may make clothing using this pattern, and you may resell those clothes, but you may not resell thispattern. We would appreciate letting the world know

that you used a LillyGiggle pattern, but that’s entirely up to you and your conscience - or lack thereof.

all graphic design performed by theinsanely awesome designavl.com

©2012-2013 LillyGiggle.All rights reserved.

www.lilygiggle.com • lilygiggle.etsy.com

TUTORIAL PAGE 1


TUTORIAL PAGE 2

The Lorelei Dress and Top

Size 12 months-8 years

Materials Needed:

Fabric ~ 3/4 yard woven fabric*** for dress option (sizes 12-5) 7/8 yard woven fabric*** for dress option (sizes 5-8)

5/8 yard woven fabric*** for top option 1 XL or larger t-shirt or

½ yard stretch knit for ¾ sleeves or 5/8 yard for long sleeves Additional t-shirts or non-fraying lightweight fabric for ruffles

3/8” elastic Color coordinating polyester thread Universal sewing machine needle

Fabric marking pen/pencil Ruler

***stretch knit can be substituted for woven fabric on the body of the dress but do not use a

woven fabric for the sleeves as they are sized for stretch knits only.


TUTORIAL PAGE 3

This pattern was designed with several things in mind. First, I wanted a very basic dress that would be a great starting point for beginner sewists, especially

those interested in trying out stretch knits for the first time. I also wanted a dress that would allow the use of all those beautiful fabrics out there, but at

less than a yard needed, wouldn’t break the budget. Lastly, I wanted to continue to create new ways to recycle those t-shirts…a nice little mix of something old and something new combined to create something lovely.

Special Tips for Sewing with Stretch Knits…

~Stretch knit fabrics will not fray so you don’t have to finish the inside seams

~If not using a serger, use a ball point or stretch needle and double-stitch your seams (instructions given in tutorial). You will want to use a looser stitch (stitch length 3) than on a woven because you want the stitches to have some stretch. Use a fresh needle for each garment.

~When sewing a straight seam you want to gently stretch the seam as you sew, especially on knits that roll like jersey and single knits. The stretchier the fabric the more you will want to stretch your seam.

~Be careful not to stretch your fabric while pressing. It is very

important not to pull your garment out of shape.

~The hem can be the trickiest part especially if you are working with very stretchy fabric. To keep your hemline from “growing” you should use a longer stitch. Be sure and steam press well to shrink back in place..

~If you are sewing your stretch knit garment on a serger with differential feed, there is no need to stretch while sewing. ~Spray starch on the knit can make it easier to sew. ~Using a zig zag stitch instead of a double straight stitch is sometimes preferred. You will soon find your own favorite method.

Glossary of terms:

Selvedge: The selvedge is the finished edge of the fabric where you will find the fabric details printed, not the edge that was cut when you bought your fabric. Back Stitch: The process of sewing in reverse over a previously laid line of stitching, usually about ¼” or so to lock the stitches in place. This is done at the beginning and ending of each line of stitching. Topstitching: Sewing a line of stitching on the outside of a garment, usually for decorative effect.


TUTORIAL PAGE 4

LilyGiggle patterns are based on the following body measurements. Use your child’s measurements to determine size. If you don’t have the measurements just choose the size your child wears normally.

Special Instructions…

~ Be sure and wash and dry all new fabric before cutting. This will remove sizing and keep your finished garment from shrinking.

~ Note that the pattern pieces are in multiple sizes. Be sure to use a consistent

size when cutting the individual pieces.

~ This pattern uses a 1/2” seam allowance, unless otherwise stated.

Elastic Guide:

12-24 months-15” 2-3 years- 15 ½” 3-4 years -15 ¾” 4-5 years – 16”

5-6 years – 16 ½ “ 7- 8 years- 16 ¾”


TUTORIAL PAGE 5

Cutting Layout Instructions

Before cutting your pieces lay your woven fabric out flat, right side down then follow these steps.

1. Grab one of the selvedge ends. (see glossary at beginning of tutorial)

2. Fold over just enough fabric to place FRONT & BACK DRESS pattern piece on. Place your pattern piece as shown on the fold. Carefully pin to the fabric, making sure that the edge of the pattern piece marked “place on fold” is lined up with the fold of the fabric. When it is securely pinned to the fabric, go ahead and cut slowly and neatly around the pattern piece.

3. Now with the fabric that is left fold over once more in the same direction- just enough to place the FRONT & BACK DRESS pattern piece on again. Place the pattern piece on the fold and cut out in the same way that you did in step 1.


TUTORIAL PAGE 6

4. Lay a no longer needed t-shirt out on a flat surface.

5. Place your SLEEVE pattern piece on a fold. I find that the side seam is a

good spot but you may use the sleeve of the t-shirt as well, especially on a long sleeve tee. The important thing is to find a spot that the pattern

fits on and that has a fold. ***A “true” t-shirt will not have a side seam but if you use a shirt with a side seam there will be a seam down the center of

the sleeve on your finished dress or top. You also need to be aware that some tees are fitted so the side seam will not be straight. You could still cut your sleeve in the same way but you will wind up with more of a bell shaped sleeve and your pattern piece is not going to align just right with

the side seam of the shirt.

6. Carefully pin the pattern piece to the t-shirt, making sure to keep the

edge of the pattern marked “place on fold” right on the fold of the fabric as you did with the first steps. Go ahead and cut it out. Now flip the pattern piece over and do the same thing to the other t-shirt side seam so that you will wind up with 2 sleeves. ***This dress is designed to have raw edges at the bottom of the sleeves. If you would like them finished you can line up the bottom of the SLEEVE pattern with the hem of the t-shirt and have an instantly finished sleeve…my fave! OR you can add an inch to the sleeve length before cutting and add your own hem.


TUTORIAL PAGE 7

Before cutting out your ruffles, you may want to consider the look you want to create. You don’t have to stick to the sizes on the RUFFLE pattern. The ruffles are less dramatic on the smaller sizes and more dramatic on the larger sizes. For more subtle ruffles on a larger dress, go down a size or two and vice versa for more dramatic ruffles on smaller sizes. You can even mix the sizes up to create an even more unique look.

7. Place the RUFFLES pattern piece on the t-shirt. It is important that it is placed as shown so that the stretch of the fabric is going in the proper direction. The word “RUFFLES” on the pattern piece should run parallel with the hem of the shirt. If using yardage, the word “RUFFLES” on the pattern should be parallel to the cut edge of the fabric, not the selvedge (see glossary at beginning of tutorial, if needed).

This will give you 2 of the 5 ruffle pieces that you will need. If you want more ruffles of the same fabric you can just place the RUFFLE pattern piece down again on what is left of the t-shirt. I like to mix up my ruffles with different colors, patterns, and/or textures. You can make the ruffles from any lightweight fabric that looks the same on the front and the back (the back side of the fabric will show) and does not fray. Lace is a good option and adds interest when mixed with the knits. You could also try chiffon. Avoid heavy fabrics or stiff fabrics. They won’t drape well and will look awkward. When the five RUFFLE pieces are cut out, you will need to cut the sharp points on the ends of them to make them more rounded and blunt.


TUTORIAL PAGE 8

Let’s Sew The LORELEI Dress!

1. Start by placing one of your FRONT & BACK DRESS pieces on a flat surface. Measure 2 inches from the top of the piece and mark with a fabric marking pen, a fabric marking pencil or chalk. Do not use a regular pen or pencil as this will leave a permanent mark.

2. Draw a line parallel to the top of the piece and 2” down.

3. Keeping the top of your ruler on the line you just created, measure 2 ½ inches from one of the curved armhole edges.

Make a small line to mark the spot. Do the same on the other side so that you have 2 small line markings 2 ½ inches from each curved armhole edge right on your line.

4. Find the center of the piece by

folding the piece in half lengthwise. Make another small line marking on the 2 inch line at the center. You should now have 3 small line markings on your line that is 2” from the top.


TUTORIAL PAGE 9

5. The markings are going to help you place your ruffles down. Begin with the center marking. Open up the small inside circle of the RUFFLE piece until it becomes a straight line. Pin one end of the straight line at the center marking. Continue pinning it straight down from that mark. Be sure that the wrong side of the ruffle fabric is facing up. (This can be difficult to tell with many fabrics so don’t stress unless it is obvious).

6. When the ruffle is securely pinned in place, head over to your sewing machine and sew it down 1/8” from the straight edge. Be sure to back stitch at the beginning and end of your line of stitching. I won’t mention back stitching again but just remember that it needs to be done at the beginning and end of each line of stitching (or seam).

Stop sewing about 2-3” from the bottom of the ruffle and back stitch

(last reminder! ).


TUTORIAL PAGE 10

7. When you have sewn it in place, flip the ruffle over so the right side of the fabric is facing up and sew ¼” from the straight edge.

Now you have your first nice, neat

ruffle with a fancy French seam…oo-la-la.

8. Okay, now take your piece back over to your flat surface. Take a RUFFLE piece that you want to be on the far right of the dress. Open it up and place it down on the right side marking just like you did the center ruffle.

9. Sew it down just as you did the center ruffle and, once again, lay it out on the flat surface.


TUTORIAL PAGE 11

10. Find the center point between the two ruffles that you have sewn in place. Mark it. This is the starting point for your next ruffle. Follow steps 5-7 again with this next ruffle piece.

11. Use the same steps to add ruffles to the left side of the dress. The only difference is that the left side ruffles should be placed in the opposite direction as the right side.

Now the front of your dress should look something like this…

You just finished the hardest part of the whole dress…yay!


TUTORIAL PAGE 12

12. Grab one of your SLEEVE pieces and open it up flat. Place it on top of the FRONT dress piece you’ve been working on with the right side of the fabric facing down (this is called right sides together). Match the curved armhole edges and pin.

13. Sew along pinned edge.

14. Now you need to finish the inside edges of your seam for neatness and to keep the woven fabric from fraying. You can use your machine’s overlock stitch or a zig zag stitch along the raw edge. If you have a serger then do your finishing with it. Don’t use pinking shears on stretch knit. After the seams are finished, press (iron) the seams towards the woven fabric part of the dress. Don’t skip the ironing. Pressing a garment well during construction will give a much more professional finish.*** If you used a fabric marker, be sure not to set the ink by ironing over it.


TUTORIAL PAGE 13

15. Follow steps 12-14 on the other side as well. Now the front of the dress should look a little like this…

16. Time to find the back of the dress (the other FRONT & BACK piece). Place it with the right side of the fabric facing down- right sides together -and matching the curved armhole edge with the unsewn curved armhole edge of the sleeve.

Now it should look like this when you get it pinned…

17. Sew and finish the

pinned edge just like you did before. Then do the same to the other side.

18. After the sleeves are

attached you may want to topstitch 1/8” from the armhole seam for decorative effect .


TUTORIAL PAGE 14

19. Now that the sleeves are attached and the inside edges finished, it’s time to sew up the side seams. Begin by lining up the front and back shoulder seams while the dress is still wrong side out.

Lining those up will help you line up the front and back of the dress as well as the front and back of the sleeves at the sides. Pin the side seams together from the bottom of the sleeve all the way to the bottom of the dress.

*** I have recommended using a universal machine needle because you are sewing both knits and wovens in this dress and a universal needle is designed to be used for both. I, generally, find it way easier to sew stretch knits with a ball point needle, though. If you are having trouble with the seam on the knit sleeve you may want to switch your needle to a ball point needle just for that portion. A ball point needle is not recommended for use on wovens so you will need to switch back for the woven part.

20. Sew the pinned edge. You need to gently stretch the knit fabric as you sew the sleeve (see tips & tricks at beginning of tutorial for more help) and it’s a good idea to double stitch the sleeve if you aren’t using a serger. Go back and make a second row of stitches 1/8” parallel to the first row. See next page for example…


TUTORIAL PAGE 15

Here’s an example of double stitching.

21. Finish the raw edges with your choice of finishing techniques.

22. Repeat steps on the

opposite side seam.

23. Take your dress over to the ironing board and press down approximately ¼ “of fabric to the inside of the dress all the way around the top.

24. Now fold down again ¾”

of fabric and press all the way around the top of the dress. You have just created your elastic casing where you will soon insert your elastic. For now you need to pin the area you just pressed to hold it in place.

25. Sew along the inside of

your fold 1/8” from the edge.

When you get to the knit sleeve you need to remember to gently stretch the fabric as you sew.


TUTORIAL PAGE 16

26. When you are about 1” from where you started sewing…stop. You need to leave a small opening.

27. Put a large safety pin on one end of your 3/8” elastic. Use the elastic guide at beginning of tutorial for measurements.

28. Insert the safety pin

into the opening.

29. Push the elastic through the entire casing until you reach the opening again. Stitch both ends of elastic together with ½” seam allowance. Push back into the casing and sew the opening closed. Be sure that the elastic is not twisted inside the casing before sewing the ends together.

You are SO close!!! Time to hem…

30. Take the dress back to the ironing board and press ½” of fabric towards the inside all the way around the bottom of the dress.


TUTORIAL PAGE 17

31. Fold again ½” towards the inside of the dress. Press. Pin.

32. Sew… and YOU ARE DONE!!! YAY!!!

Go try it on your favorite little girl…

I really hope that you enjoyed making The Lorelei Dress. Please remember that if you have any questions or comments, please email me at [email protected].

For more great patterns please visit my shop at www.lilygiggle.com. You can also check out my Facebook page for news and upcoming designs at www.facebook.com/lilygiggle

Happy Sewing! ~Beth

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afterprinting,

please makesure this square

is one inch byone inch

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