india textile

8/3/2019 India Textile

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APPENDIX I1

A GLOSSARY OF THE INDIAN TEXTILES EXPORTED TOSWTH EAST ASIAN COUNTRIES AND ENGLAND

ALLEJEAS, A var iet y of st ri pe d cl ot h of mixed w it hALLEGAIS, cotton and s i l k , commonly re d, whi te orALACHA, blue, sometimes flowered and embe ll ishedALLEJAES, wit h gold and silv , thread. Length: 16-ALLEGAES. 17 yards by 1.25 yards of width.

Manufactured i n Western India, South I nd iaand Bengal.

AMBERTEES

BAFTAS,BAFFETAS.

A superior quali ty of wh ite cloth woven i nPatna area (Bihar). I t was i n greatdemand fo r the London market i n the f i r s tha lf of th e seventeenth century. Sizeabout i yard broad and 13 yards long. I twas especially used fo r the l in in g ofquilts, and also for re-export.

This term covered more than one kind ofcotton goods. Baftas of pl ai n cotton ca li coof Gujarat varyin g i n qua lit y from coarseto fine . Baftas sent to Europe wereusually white, but for Asian markets theywere commonly dyed red, blue or black .After the Gujarat famine i t wasmanufactured i n other part s of Ind ia. 15cubits long.


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BEATHILLES, A wh ite muslln made at Masulipatnam andBETILLES. Golconda, especial ly l o the neighbwrhood

of Warangal. The name i s connected w i t hPortuguese beatilha, ' v e i l ' . I t i s aDeccan name for muslin. Length var iedfrom 15 to 25 yards; usually I f yardsbroad. Dyed i n red, and sometimesstrip ed or f lowered with embroidery, i ngreat demand i n Europe as shawls.

BRAWLES

BYRAMI,BYRAMS,BEIRAME.

CACHCHAICANNEKINS,CANNIKENS,CANEQUIMS.

CHELAS,CHILLAES,CHELLOES.

A cheap blue and white striped cottoncloth patterned i n loom, cla ssi fied as a'gulnea-stuff' and i n great demand for theslaves. Manufactured I n Western India.The name of a very fine cotton stuff,usually dyed i n red, blue, or black forAsian markets. They were producedmainly i n Burhanpur area.

A Loincloth made of coarse cotton.A cheap coarse calico, dyed i n blue o rblack. I n Western India ch ie fl y woven a tBroach and Navsari, and sold i n a l l themain Asian markets.

I n the seventeenth century records i t i sdescribed as cotton handkerchiefs, usuallyst ri ped blue and white. From Teluguch i ra or &. A cotton cloth both-triped and chequered.


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CHILLIES,CHELLIES.

CHINTES,CHINTZ.

CUTTANEES

DERIABADS

A k in d of cotton piece goods made i n SouthIndia. It was cheap checkered sort,woven mainly i n Madras area and ex po rt edto Malay Archipelago.

Or m, entioned i n the EnglishFactory record s t o any painted or sp ottedcotton calico. I t had great demand i nMalay Archipelago as sarongs.Manufactured i n Western Indl a, Deccan andon the Coromandel coast.

An important Gujarat i expo rt c lo th ofmixed wlth s i lk and cotton with satinweave, usually striped and sometimesinterspersed with f low err. I n greatdemand fo r making of qu il ts , whic h werepopular i n England. Produced ch ie fl y i nAhmadabad and Cambay area.

A good quali ty of pl ai n white calico, oftenbrought t o Broach b y the English fo rbleaching. Exporte d to South East Asianmarkets and to England. Manufactured a tDaryabad i n Ut ta r Pradesh. Dimension :13 to 14 yards long by 3/4 yard broad.

DRONGANG MALAYA A k ind of cotton c lo th ex po rted from theCoromandel coast: the name may beconnected w it h the Malay dragsm 'b rown orvery dark red! I t was produced on theCoromandel coast as black and red, eitherstr iped or chequered.


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DUNGAREES

DUPATTA

DUTTEES,DUTTIES,DHOOTIES.

ECKBARIES

GINGHAMS

A pla in whi te coarse ca l ico wi th mul t ip lewarps and wefts woven mainly on the Westcoast, usually dyed brown. Ex por te d t oMalay Archipelago and also to Europe.

A garment used l i k e wrap, I l te ra l l y acloth i n two width s. Manufactured on t heCoromandel coast expor ted t o t h e MalayArchipelago.

A very coarse and strong cloth, fromwhich dhotie were apparently made. I t i svery wel l known from i t s use as lo i nclo th. The records make i t clear thatDuttees wc-e strong coarse cloth usedmainly for sails and as a packingmater ial. Manufactured i n Western India.Usually sold i n length of 12 t o 15 yardsand 1 yard wid th. W-ven ch ie f l y atDolkha i n the Western In dia .

Plain wh it e cl oth, measurement more than36 inches, often brought for making intochintz and quilts and sometimes sent toAhmadabad for ordinary dyeing.Manufactured i n Ut ta r Pradesh. They weresold I n al l th e main markets.

Pure cotton cloth woven of dyed yarn withst ri pe s and checks. Produced on th eCoromandel coast and i n Bengal. Theywere e x ~ o r t e d to South East Asfen


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covn tr les f rom Masulipatnam. Later BengalGinghams were extens ive ly expor ted toEurope fn the second ha l f o f theseventeenth centu ry. Length us ua l ly 21yards.

GUINEA-STUFFS, The general te-m fo r a w id e rang e ofGUINEA-CLOTH. cheap, b r i g h t ly coioured In di an ca l ico es,

most ly s t r iped or chequered and verypopular among negroes. E xp or te d t o SouthEast Asian markets and Guinea for sale.Manufactured i n Western In di a.

GULDARS,GULDAREES.

GUNNIES

IZAREES,IZZAREES.

Persian gu l -dar , ' spot ted or f low ere d ' . Aname for f ine musl in turban c lothsornamented a t the ends i n go ld o r s i l v e rthread . Burhanpur was the cen tre fo rmanufacture. It was 12 yards long and 30inches broad.

A strong coarse cal ico used for sacking andas cover ing for bales; a lso sent to Englandas piecegoods. Woven m ain ly i n Rajapurend Karwar areas and to a lesser extent atBroach.

Manufactured on the North Coromandel.From Telugu ist ree , 'pre ss ed ' . HenceLongcloth o r g lnghamsimp l i e s t h a t t h e c l o t h wa s f i n i sh e d w i t h avery srnmth surface.


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JECKANDAMES,YECKANDAMES.

KAINGULONG,CAINGOULONG ,CAINGOULONS.

KERYABADS

LONGCLOTH

LUNG1

MEDAPHONS

The name given to a part icular sort ofpalnted cotton dopatta mainly t o send t oSlam.

From Malay 'Ka in' , "clo th materi al", andgulong, ' ro l l ed ' . A var iety patterned i nloom and usually incorpora ted w i t h gol dthread. The term impl ies tha t the y wereexported i n ro l l s. Manufactured on th ecoast and ch ie fl y intended i nt o Malay-sarongs and Java girdles (waistc loth) .A good qual i ty pla in white cal ico, i n greatdemand for the English home market onaccount of i t s exceptiona l length andbreadth . Manufactured at Kairabad i nUttar Pradesh.

The ordinary staple cotton cloth ofCoromandei, ve ry famous i n Europe onaccount of i t s length of 37 yards andw id th o f 1.25 yards . I t va ried w ide ly i nqual i ty and pr i ce. Ea r l i er i t was woveni n Golconda but la te r I t was producedmainly i n Madras area. I t was usuallyexported white but i t could also be i nblue or brown colours.

a waist c loth.

A str i ped cloth woven c hie f l y i n Golcondaand Madras and ex po rted t o MalayArchipelago.


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MERCOOLEES,MERCULEES.

MATAFONS,MITTFOONES,MUTTFOONS.

MOREES,MURIS.

NICANEES,NICKANEES.

A goo d p l a i n w h i t e c a l l co , w ov en I n J a l p u rand i n Luck now a rea . E x po r t ed t o S ou thE ast A s ia and London i n l a r g e q uan t i t l e s .Somet imes bough t fo r t r ans fo rm ing i n toch in tz . Usua l l y l eng th was 15 y a r d s .

A lo w-g ra de c he qu ere d c a l i co b ~ g h t o rt h e M a l ay A r c h ipe l ago . W oven m a i n l y a tCambay.

O ne o f t he c a t ego r i es o f s t ap l e c o t t on c l o t hwoven on th e Coromande l coast . U su a l l yo f s u p e r i o r q u a l i t y a n d mu ch i n de ma nd i nE u ro p e a s a s u b s t i t u t e f o r l i n e n c l t o h . I twas a l so us ed f o r m ak i ng c h i n t z . M u r i sw e re b l u e c l o t h s . P u l i c a t a n dM as ulipa tnam we re t r ad i t i o n a l c en t r es o fm a nu fa ctu re b u t l a t e r i n t h e c e n t u r y i t wasa l so woven i n Madras a rea . D imensionsus ua l l y 9-10 y a r ds l ong and 1 y a r d 8i n c hes w i de o r 1 5 i t o 16 covads .

A ch ea p s t r i p e d c a li co , p a t te r n e d i n lo om .B ou gh t m a i n ly f o r t h e s l a v e m a r k e t s .Ch i e f l y wov en a t B r oac h and B a r oda .Dimension usual ly 1 4 t c ov ads l ong and1 1/8 covads broad.

P ALAM PO RE , A hand - pa in t ed o r b l o c k - p r i n t ed c l o t h ,PALLAMPORES, p roduced i n Gu ja ra t c h i e f l y a t Ahmadabad .PALAMPOSH. A h i g h q u a l i t y c l o t h u s e d a s b e d - c o v e - .


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PATOLA,PATOLAS.

PATTA.

Well known Gujarat and Coromandel piece-goods of s i l k cloth. The warp and weftbeing tle- dyed before weaving according t othe pre-determined patt ern. Patolas wereexported mainly t o th e Malay Archipelago,measurements varled accordlng to the needof diff eren t markets. The longer slzeswere spec ia lly commissioned. Chief cent reof patola weavlng were patan, i n thenorth-east of Ahmadabad and Masullpatnam.

A cheap dyed cotton cl ot h, usuallys tr iped, but vary ing i n s ty le accord ing tothe part icular local market fo r which I twas Intended. Manufactured i n SouthIndia.

PERCALLAS, A high grade pl al n cotton cl ot h, especia llyPERCALLAES, noted fo r fineness, textu re and du rab i l i t y .PARICALS. They were woven i n Madras and Golconda

areas and were the k in d of ca lico b estsuited fo r ch int z. Dimensions were about8 yards of length and 1 ya rd of width.Mostly produced i n whit e colour butoccasiwlal ly i n red.

PINTADOS. Painted cloths with ful l of f igures greatand smal l, p re t i l ly represent ing s m d rytrades and occupations of the Indians w it hthei r habi ts .

PITCHARIES. Manufactured i n Western India . They werecoloured url lcoas, exporte d mainly t o th eMalay Archipelago.


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RUMBATTEENES, A c lo th procured at Nagapatnam.RAMBOETYNS. The name may be due to some resemblancein the pa ttern to the red ha i r y f r u i t o fthe Malay 'rambutan' tree .

SAILCLOTH A pla in whlte, coarse clo th . Narrowseri has of double thre ad having a lengthof 20 covads i n Gujarat.

SALAMPORES, The Javanese name fo r the CoromandelSALAMPURIS, ca lico known to the Engl ish merchants asSALAMPOURIES. 'Salampore' . One of the categories of

sta ple cotton clo th . Woven on th e coastvarying widely i n qual i ty and pr ice.Made out of pure cotton ranging fromcoarse to ver y f ine, ei th er p la in white,blue or brown. The usual dimensions were16 yards long and 1 yard wide. Exportedi n large quantities to England from Madrasand Masulipatnam.

SARASSA, ~ d rassamans, 'super ior ' , multi-colouredSARASSAGOBARS. petterned cl oths , much i n demand i n Malay

Archipelago as a waist clo th, and i n Japanfor other uses. The pat tern could beei ther painted or woven, such as sarassapatolas could be sithi- cotton o r s i l k .Manufactured i n South Ind ia c hi ef ly at

SEALAS. A materia l for turbans, Interwoven w i t hgold.


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SEMIANOES Good plain and st r i pe d cal ico, especial l yl i k ed fo r i t s b readth , wh lch wassometimes as much as 14 yards. Becauseof the size, they were saleable i nEngland. Manufactured at Samana andPat iala. Length was about 12 yards.

SERRIBAFFS Good qu al it y, fi ne musli n from Khandeshand Daccan, sometimes dye d r ed o r blue.Exported mainly t o West Asia.

SERIHAS,SERYAS,SERIJAS,SEARES.

SHASH

SUCATOONS

TAFFETA,TAFFATIE ,TAFFETY.

A cheap strong calico, ei th er pl ai n brstr ipe d. Demanded I n Europe fo r makingnapk ins and sometimes flags and sa il cl ot h.Produced i n Western Ind ia .

A turban cloth, usually of f ine qual i t y,and sometimes embroidered or brocaded.I n great demand i n west Asia. Mos tlywoven i n the Deccan.

Str iped or chequered fa br i c of s i l k ormixed cotton and s i l k . Manufactured i nEastern India . Usually one yar d i nbreadth , and var ied from 10-20 yar ds i nlength, Exported to th e South East Aslancountries.

A s i l k c loth wi th a wary lustre,manufactured i n Bengal.


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TAPE-CHINDSTAPPE,TAPE-CHINDAES.

TAPIKACHIL ,TAPIPULANG,TAPISARASSAS.

TAPSEELS,TOPSEILES,TAFFICILAS.

TUCKERYES,TUCKREES.

The name for several combinations ofvarious piece-goods. Derived from theJavanese tap i , 'a s k i r t ' or 'bord er' andHind1 chin t 'chin tz'. This term indicatesa type of garment, decorated wi thpatterns. Gujarat specialised i n thesegoods and lat er imit ate d i n othe r p ar ts ofIndia. Exported to Malay Archipelago.

Multicoloured skirts, decorated withpatterns.

Cheap stri ped stuff of mixed si l k andcotton (broad and narrow) patterned i nloom, much i n demand i n th e MalayArchipelago. Woven i n the Cambay,Ahmrdabad and Sind areas.

Stri ped s i l k piece-goods. Manufacturednear Patna.


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APPENDIX 1x1VOLUME OF TRADE

INTRA - ASIANA ) EXPORTS FROM INDIA TO SOUTH EAST ASIA

Value of Cargo Value of Cargo TotalYear From West Coast From East coast1 Value

E E........ . . = . = . . . . . E E E = = = = l l

NOTE : This mark indicates the non-availability of data on thevolume of trade throughout this study.


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0) IMPORTS FROM SOUTH EAST ASIAN REGIOI

= . * - . = = 5 1 = . = i D I = . E . = = = = I I I ~ ~ = = ~ = i i

Year Item s of Cargo De stina tion T o t a lValue i n-- - .= = = . . ; . . . . . . . . . . . 1 s 1 5 = 1 . . = = ~ . . =37

1616 Pep per 6,1081 cattes. Japan *Wax 6,106 cattes .1617 Sapan wood, h id es, Deer Japanskins, spices etc. 5 , 0 5 ~ %-- Brimstone 3 tay les , Coromandel coast. 0tamphor 5 t a y l e s , r a ws i l k120 tay les coconut o i l

for lamps.39

1623 Benzion, cam phor, tutenague 40nutmegs, sandalwo od, co ppe r Masu lipatnam 8,635and s l lvero la te .

1625 Cloves, san dalwood , alum , Masulipatnam 41and r ia l s of e igh t . 13,583

1626 Cloves, sandalwood, t u r tl e -she l ls , Japan pl at e and 42M a s u l i p a t ~ m 13,OW.lmoney.

1627 Pe ppe r, clov es, sandalwood. etc. Surat

1628 Spices, and ot he rna tu ra l p roduc ts . Surat

1630 Gold, r i a l s of e lg ht , lead , Coromandel 45spic es and ot he r goods. coast 12,130


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1634 Cloves, tor to ise shells,and other natural products

-- Spices, gpld coins, r l a l 47of eight i n s i lver. Masulipatnam 10,925

1641 Various items 4 8Surat 4,604

491644 Many Cornmodltles Madras 2,364

1647 Pepper, brimstone, turtle-shells, long pepper,

50Madras 9,250cassialignum and parrots.

Cargo value 7,965 Surat 1 7 , 2 1 5 ~

1648 Different sorts ofcommodities. Madras

1650 Varlous commodities Surat 526,250


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