traditional textile of india ii
TRANSCRIPT
Traditionelle indische Textilien
Traditional Indian textiles
Dr. Nidhi L ShardaAssociate Professor, Design, NIFT BANGALURU
Indian Traditional Textile
breites Spektrum von Textilienwide range of textiles
Vielfältige Projektevaried designs
Zahlreiche Technikennumerous techniques
Vielfältige Topographie von Indienvaried topography of India
Ariden Wüsten, üppige Wälder, Snowy Mountains, üppigen Tälernarid deserts, lush forests, snowy mountains, rich river valleys
Verschiedene Kulturen gebrachtVarious cultures brought
Oberfläche dekorativen Techniken produzieren die komplexe Muster auf viele indische Textilien.
surface decorative techniques produce the complex patterns seen on many Indian textiles.
Block printing
Very fine tie-dyeing,
Batik
Fabric painting
Embroidery
Weaving
Fabrics are enriched with a multitude of designs, influenced by:
Fabrics are enriched with a multitude of designs, influenced by:
Flora
Gods
Environment
Social
Cultural
Political
Fauna
buckelpisten' enorme Schirmherrschaft des Art.
• Moguls' tremendous patronage of the arts.
• The Portuguese, Dutch and English established bases and placed substantial orders for textiles.
• Regionale Unterschiede oft religiösen Einflüssen. Im Westen Indiens, der arabischen Einfluss ist offensichtlich.
REGIONAL DIVERSITY
Regional differences often reflect religious influences. In western India, the Arab influence is apparent.
Bengal and Kerala where the land is lush and green mostly wear white clothes
The desert area, which comprises of parts of Gujarat, Rajasthan, Haryana and Delhi sport intense sun- burnt colors with strong linear patterns. Embroidery and mirror works are
predominant here.
In the Deccan region, the colors match the black alluvial soil of the area. Dark maroon, bottle green and turquoise blue are
common colors here. The dry and hot climate of the Southern states, which comprises Tamilnadu, Karnataka and Andhra,
favors rich and luminous colored silks.
Geography.. /Climatic conditions
• Climate conditions also influence the types of textiles produced. In the mountainous north, one finds cold winters and, as a result, a large production of wool.
The Himalayan area, which consists of Ladakh, Himachal Pradesh and Uttarakhand, concentrates on woollen weaves
with highly geometric patterns woven in tapestry weave in the primary colors.
The rich river plains have a softer texture and milder colors with linear patterns and well-defined borders. Mostly floral
patterns are used for the decorations of the cloth.
Metamorphosis:a marked decline in the textile trade by the end of the 18th century.
• Following factors contributed to this decline:– Political instability, – machine-made textiles, – and British monopolies of India's
production
What happened, then, was the deliberate destruction by British colonial rule of this manufacturing economy and this ‘is the real, the fundamental, cause of the appalling poverty of the Indian people. (Pandit Jawaharlal Nehru)
All this …Gives a strange sense to understand the cultural, geographical and social impact in fashion and sensibility of dressing.
BALD NACH DER UNABHÄNGIGKEIT IM JAHR 1947, DEM NEUEN INDISCHEN REGIERUNG ERKANNTE DIE BEDEUTUNG DER TRADITIONELLEN KUNST IN DER INDISCHEN GESELLSCHAFT UND SCHRITTE ZUR UNTERSTÜTZUNG UND ZUR AUFRECHTERHALTUNG IHRER NEUBELEBUNG DURCH GRÜNDUNG STAATLICHEN UND LOKALEN BOARDS.
Soon after independence in 1947, the new Indian government recognized the importance of traditional arts in Indian society and took steps to support and preserve their revival by establishing state and local boards.
Characteristics…
Popularität in inländische und ausländische MärktePopularity in domestic and foreign markets
Verfügbarkeit für die gemeinsame Menschen
Availability to the common people
beeinflussen die Generationencapable of influencing the generations
Verankert sehr tief
Entrenched very deep
Nützlichkeitsbezogener art Utilitarian nature,
Dyed textile
Bandhej.. tie&dye
The craft of tying cloth in intricate patterns and dying it in rainbow hues; there are specific designs for festivals, rituals & seasons , colours for weddings ,colours for spring, the joy of living even in an arid land.
Batik
Batik is created in several ways. In splash method the wax is splashed
or poured onto the cloth. The screen-printing method involves a
stencil. The hand painting one is by a Kalamkari pen. The scratch and
starch resist are the other methods.
Indian mythological scenes
Popular craft
Patola:Each weft thread is thoroughly examined and matched with each part
of the warp design pattern while weaving.
It takes three to four months to prepare tie- dyed design on warp and weft threads for one sari of 6 yards length by 48" width. Thus 4 to 5
persons take a periods of 5 to 6 months to complete a sari depending on the intricacy of the design.
Design Essentially the design in a patola are based on traditional motifs
Flowers, animals, birds and human figures form the basic designs.
Contemporary applications..
Printed textile
Block Printing
Mixture of dabu mud clay is being mixed & kept in a small storage for a night, and ready to use in the morning
, Dabu block printing process
These youth have lots of fun as they rinse the textiles between processes
Shades of blue with much use of indigo blue dyeing processes is a characteristic of this centre. The small Chaubundi print in indigo is
famous in Bagru.
The motifs are simple and include floral and linear patterns.
matka, tussar & ghicha silks,
prints on tussars,
Kota Doria…
A dress by designer Manish Arora
Painted textile
Kalam kalahasthi Andhra pradesh
Mata ni Pachedi Hand drawn & dyed by master craftsman
Pabuji Ki Phach
In Madhubani Characteristically, the outlines are drawn as a double line with diagonal hatching between them.
The form of each figure is a highly stylized profile of the face and feet whilst the body often faces the viewer.
Woven textile
Kashmiri shawls
Kashmir shawls: jamavars
• From about 1775 Kashmir shawls were acquired by travelers, explorers, military personnel and members of the East India Company who appreciating their beauty and warmth, brought them back as presents.
Himachali
Naga
himroo
• These shawls are typically made from Himroo fabric. Himroo is an inferior type of brocade in which both silk and cotton threads are used to produce the multi-coloured designs.
• The original ornamental design of Himroo shawls is made by extra weft figuring. The silk weft, which is used for patterning is thrown over the surface unevenly, resulting in the formation of actual patterns. The rest of the weft is left hanging loosely underneath. The extra layer of loose silk weft in Himroo shawls impart a soft and almost silk like feel. Himroo shawls are extremely beautiful and have a shine like satin.
The literal meaning of Kinkhab is ‘less dream'. Owing to the high content of silver and gold threads, the texture becomes abrasive to the skin which makes one almost sleepless and hence few or less dreams.
For the Mughals this fabric epitomized the refined taste and the high level of indulgence.
Traditional Embroidery
•Kantha Embroidery •Banjara Embroidery •Chamba rumal •Soof Embroidery •Aari Bharat Embroidery •Rabari Embroidery •Ahir Bharat Embroidery •Quilts ralis
•Kasuti Embroidery •Kashmiri Embroidery •ChikanKari Embroidery •Zardozi Embroidery •Phulkari Embroidery •Bidri Embroidery•Lambadi,Mirror Embroidery
Salama work :Sequin Work Embroidery
Toran is the most common embroidered doorway decoration with hanging flaps, which is supposed to ventilate good luck.
Pachhitpatis (embroidered frieze) are hanged from the corners as a welcome symbol to the visitors.
Bhitiya is the impressive wall hanging.
Chaklas (embroidered square pieces) are used as furniture covers while
Kantha
Sujani
Chikenkari....
Zardozi
Kashidak
ari
Parsi
Chamba rumal
Phulkari wedding shawl
The elaborately worked vari da bagh is embroidered by the paternal grandmother of a baby boy to be gifted to his bride; while the chope embroidered by the bride's maternal grandmother, is worn by the bride during rituals preceding the wedding. Its lack of borders along the breadths symbolises unbounded
prosperity for the bride.
Phulkari
•Quilt.Navali cholis, bed spreads, cushion covers, and purses are decorated by jaisalmer applique art.
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