Ulun Danu temple Beratan Lake in Bali Indonesia

Indonesia’s 100 Hidden Paradise

Indonesia’s

Hidden Paradise

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Watching the sun rise on Mount BroMo or diving in Bunaken May no longer Be enough for adventure-seekers in indonesia. the search is on for lesser-knoWn destinations, and there are More than plenty around the archipelago as teMpo discovered. With the holidays approaching at year-end, We present a special report on selected sites that can serve as alternative destinations.

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As the year-end approaches, let us put aside for a while aggravating political issues and the battered economy. Let us, instead, spend time exploring a vacation agenda, one that is truly unforgettable.

We will not, right from the start, look at the conventional places like Lombok, Bunaken and the Thousand Islands, but seek the less-traveled path. The journey may be tiring but the

final destination could well take your breath away, a heaven on earth.In this special issue, we peruse heavenly and sites rarely visited by

strangers. As such, many of the well-known places, those that can easily be accessed through the internet or pointed out by travel agencies, are not listed.

We crafted this list of hidden edens with care and attention, separating them into 12 categories: mountains, seashore, lakes, historical sites, unique places for outdoors, and several others. Then we invited experts on these different locales to give us a briefing. They include Amelia Yunita, an expert river rafter and explorer, who founded the Arus Liar program; Dody Johanjaya, the first person to climb the Indonesia Seven Summits; Tantyo Bangun, former chief editor of the National Geographic Indonesia and student activist of the University of Indonesia’s Nature Lovers; and Cahyo Alkantana, president of the Indonesian Speleology Association. We also asked our correspondents throughout the archipelago to map out new pleasure places in their respective areas.

That’s how we located these unknown earthly edens. Among them is the beautiful and romantic Togean Beach in Central Sulawesi. One well-known place that deserves to be listed is Mount Rinjani in West Nusa Tenggara. But we do not recommend Senaru and Sembalun, the mountain’s two popularly-used trails. Instead, we chose the rarely-trodden Torean trail, which may be more challenging to mountain trekkers, but which promises infinitely more rewarding vistas.

Even in world-famous Bali, we discovered canyoning, river crossings, jumping from and climbing waterfalls, activities rarely carried out by tourists, and even locals.

The downside of going to those places are predictably difficulty of access and non-availability of tourist-friendly facilities. One of them is Kayan Mentarang, a forest in North Kalimantan, which can only be reached by a four-day river journey. Hopefully, our report, which will contain the degrees of difficulties in accessing these selected sites, will motivate the local administrations in question to start improving conditions.

There is no question, however, that all the effort spent is worth the while in the end. Adventurism, according to Amelia Yunita, “is the trend in world tourism today.” A study by George Washington University in the US shows that adventure tourism has risen by 65 percent this year. “People want more than just getting a tan on the beach. Some don’t mind getting wet and dirty, if it will take them to an unusual and unforgettable experience,” said Amelia.

Dear reader, this special report is intended as an initial guide for your travel plans. It is also a testament that despite problems and thorny issues, our nation evidently possesses and preserves numerous little nirwanas. l

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TogeAnThe Togean Islands have four types of coral which are not found in any other seas: atolls, barrier reef, fringing and patch reefs. These diverse formations and colors of coral are home to species of fish living in tropical and sub-tropical waters.

rinjAniFrom Taman cave, we walked to Susu cave, about 500 meters away. Inside is a natural hot spring, which makes one feel as if stepping into a sauna. Hot water drips from stalac-tites. The steam was so enjoyable that an hour went passed unnoticed.

SPECUAL EDITION TEAM Project head: Qaris Tajudin Coordinators: Bagja Hidayat, Kurniawan, Nurdin Kalim, Philipus Parera Writers: Qaris Tajudin (Kayan Mentarang and Bahau), Bagja Hidayat (Togean), Nurdin Kalim (Rinjani), Kurniawan (Matano), Sandy Indra Pratama (Ratenggaro), Wahyuana Wardoyo (Kwatisore), Heru Triyono (Mentawai), Agoeng Wijaya (Gitgit), Agung Sedayu (Banda Neira), Sunudyantoro (Barat Cave), Seno Joko Suyono (Flores), Philipus Parera, Mahardika Satria Hadi (Bogor), Yuliawati, Riky Ferdianto, Iqbal Muhtarom, Sorta Tobing, Mustafa Silalahi, Cheta Nilawati, Akbar Tri Kurniawan, Retno Dianing Sari, Isma Savitri, Nunuy Nurhayati, Anton Septian, Arif Zulkifli Contributors: Irmawati (Bantimurung), Amar Burase (Ampana), Shinta Maharani dan Aris Andrianto (Kebumen), Febrianti (Padang) Editors: Qaris Tajudin, Arif Zulkifli, Hermien Y. Kleden, Nugroho Dewanto, L.R. Baskoro, Elik Susanto, Seno Joko

LuwuWith a depth of about 590 meters, Lake Matano is the deepest lake in Southeast Asia. This lake is con-nected by river to Lake Mahalona, and to Lake Towuti to the south. Lake Towuti, which mea-sures 561 square kilometers, is the second-largest lake in Indonesia. These three lakes formed as a result of tectonic activity millions of years ago.

rATenggAroWhen building a traditional house, there are lines that may not be crossed. Locals believe the work must not only involve people on earth, it must have the bless-ing of the spiritual world, specifically ancestors. “The first ritual will tell us whether or not our ancestors approve of our intention to build a house,” said 43-year-old Ndara, a village head. If the signs appear posi-tive, “subsequent ceremonies will be performed through-out the duration of the construction.”

BuLeLengWe swam slowly, climbed up rocks, slipped and slid down others. Sev-eral times I couldn’t resist the urge to go underwater, walk on tiptoes or splash water onto the air. The gorge with the towering batu padas was transformed into the perfect hiding place to release my inner child.

BAhAu riverWe had started the journey from Tan-jung Selor from the mouth of the Kayan River. After four days traversing the Kayan, we arrived at Apau Ping. From the wooden boat, we often saw pairs of hawks flying around over the liat trees on the right side of the river toward the ketepai treetops to the left of it. White storks perched en masse on a tree.

BeAch mounTAin LAke TrAdiTionAL viLLAge sporTs river

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kAyAnnATionAL pArkKayan Mentarang is very remote, locat-ed on the edge of Indonesia’s region bordering Malaysia. The only way to get there is via a small river with rapids. The Long Alango airport, which is overrun with grass, can only accom-modate small aircrafts, with a maximum of about a dozen people. The connecting road is a dirt track.

diving foresT hisTory surfing cuLTurecAve

Suyono, Budi Setyarso, Wahyu Dhyatmika, Bina Bektiati, Purwanto Setiadi, Amarzan Loebis, Idrus F. Shahab, Yosrizal Suriaji, Tulus Wijanarko Photographers: Aditia Noviansyah (Kayan Mentarang and Bahau), Ratih Purnama Ningsih (Togean), Gunawan Wicaksono (Ratenggaro), Rully Kesuma (Kwatisore), Ayu Ambong (Banda Neira), Nita Dian (Matano), Tommy Satria (Mentawai), Amston Probell (Barat Cave), Wahyu Setiawan (Gitgit), Tony Hartawan (Rinjani) Photo Research: Ratih Purnama Ningsih, Ijar Karim Digital Imaging: Anindyajati Handaruvitri Creative Designers: Djunaedi (Coordinator), Agus Darmawan S., Aji Yuliarto, Eko Punto Pambudi, Kendra H. Paramita, Rizal Zulfadli, Robby, Tri Watno Widodo, Arcaya Manikotama, Kemas M. Ridwan, R. Hakim Language Editors: Uu Suhardi, Iyan Bastian, Sapto Nugroho

Watch the videos on tempo.co/video/kanal/travel or bit.ly/100surga

kwATisoreThe Cenderawa-sih Bay National Park is the biggest protected marine park in Indonesia, with 150 types of coral found around the shallows of 18 islands and more than200 species of fish. The rich diversity of this ‘underwater forest’ draws visitors to observe up close the whale shark or ‘ghost fish’.

menTAwAi Mentawai’s waves have characteristi-cally long barrels, making them very popular. They are also closely spaced, so surfers don’t need to wait too long for the next wave.The world-wide recognition of the islands can be gauged from the many surfing championships held there.

BArAT cAveBarat Cave is in the karst geological zone of South Gombong. The adventuretourist, should not miss the beauty and wildness of this cave. Just enter and find the scattered stalagmites and stalactites inside. In one corner there are white stalag-mites resembling a king’s throne. This is called the keratonan.

LArAnTukAIn front of the line, a man beats a drum called genda do in a particular mournful rhythm. It sounds melan-choly and brings a person to spiritual heights, as if it is the only sound that night. Behind the drummer, a group of children carry a black cross, sugar canes and other sweet fruits, two big candles and a human skeleton.

BAndA neirAA pentagon-shaped fort, named the Belgica, stands at the top of the Banda Neira plateau, 300 meters above the harbor. The upper part of the fort has a canon on every side. The Dutch built it on the remains of a Portu-guese fort during the 16th century.

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it took reporter Agoeng Wijaya and photographer Wahyu Setiawan two days to pluck up enough courage to jump from the cliff down towards the Yeh Kebus River in Buleleng, Bali. It was the only way to descend from the 14-meter high ground to the river. Yeh Kebus was chosen as the river in the category of

sports tourism because of its beautiful scenery and the steepness of the cliff looking over the river.

Three weeks ago, Agoeng and Wahyu looked down the canyon with trepidation. Their knees shook at the thought of having to jump down. A rock jutted out of the cliff, which could crush their bones if they missed the target. “I thought to myself, maybe this will be my last assignment,” said Agoeng, who normally writes for the Interview section.

In those two days, they looked at video recordings and photographs of the Yeh Kebus river at the inn of the Adventure and Spirit agency located at Gitgit village, together with visitors planning to jump the cliff. “If they can do it, why can’t we?” Wahyu goaded Agoeng. Both agreed to jump the next day. Writing about a cliff without trying to experience jumping from it would result in a colorless story. And Wahyu had to jump first so Agoeng could take the picture.

Wahyu stood at the edge of the cliff, poised to jump. He focused all his attention in recalling what the guide instructed, so he would not make a mistake. No need to jump, just step out from the cliff, keep your legs tight like a crowbar and smoothly enter into the water. Wahyu said a little prayer, looked

PhotograPhers and rePorters’ LeaP of faith

tWenty tWo Writers and photographers Were assigned to cover soMe of indonesia’s Most Beautiful sites; at tiMes, going through the proverBial

hell and high Water to reach those destinations.

Photographer Aditia Noviansyah in Bahau River, North Kalimantan.

down and he felt his body float on air. His screech echoed across the corners of the cliff.

He managed to open and shut his eyes three times. He let out the air out of his lungs as his body went down the water. It took him 10 meters to resurface and breath again. “Two seconds felt like two centuries,” said Agoeng, who followed Wahyu five minutes later.

Aditya Novianshyah had a different story to tell. To get a 360 degree picture of the Bahau River in North Kalimantan, he had to stand in the river itself, not an easy feat, given the fast current. He had to fight the tide, avoid slippery stones and small eddies, with two cameras and tripod in hand. At one point, he almost lost his balance but luckily someone in the accompanying small canoe held him up.

The risks involved in a photography assignment was experienced by Tommy Satria, shooting the pipe surf at Mentawai Island. Tommy went to the location with writer Heru Triyono. They dragged along 20-year-old Quicksilver surfer Sandi Slamet who originally comes from Cimaja, Sukabumi in West Java, but who now lives in Bali. Ranked in the top 10 surfers in Asia, he was offered the chance to ride the Mentawai wave and be our model.

On the second day of the shoot, the weather suddenly changed, darkening the sky. “A storm is coming, should we stay or go ahead?” asked the boatman hired by Heru. We were all at a loss on what to do next. It was the boatman who made the decision, forging ahead towards the dark clouds.

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“Relax, there are two surfing locations,” he lightly said.

Tommy held on to the pole, in order to keep his balance in the midst of being jostled by the surge. Sandi the surfer looked unfazed by it all. But not so our two reporters who had never seen such big waves. “It felt like we were being shaken,” said Tommy. But the boatman seemed adept at steering the boat against the odds. They passed the storm and reached another surf barrel site, with a tunnel the length of which world surfers only dream of.

Still by the sea, but in more tranquil conditions, was the assignment given to photographer Ratih Purnama Ningsih and political reporter Bagja Hidayat, to write about the most beautiful beach on Togean Island, Central Sulawesi. Before arriving at Kadidiri Island where they were staying, they met Arjan Kampan and Astrid-Irene van Etten at the Puspita Sari boat which took them to Ambana, capital of Tojo Unauna district, towards Wakai.

The Dutch pair also intended to go Kadidiri, so Bagja asked them to be the models for Ratih’s photographs. During shoots at Taipi and Batu Lemboto beaches, Bagja acted the director, ordering the ‘instant’ models to swim and dive here and there, to hold hands and to look at the camera. “Wow, shooting pictures takes a lot of time,” commented Arjan, who is an information technology manager for KLM, the Dutch airline.

They were happy at the result of Ratih’s shoot. Two hours of photography produced exquisite pictures, so they were happy enough to model again the next day by the wooden bridge near their Black Marlin hotel. This happens to be the most romantic spot in Kadidiri because the bridge on stilts stretches out into the middle of the sea towards a gazebo, which becomes a beautiful silhouette against the red and golden sunset on the horizon. Arjan and Astrid were pictured there in an intimate embrace. “This is the greatest experience of our holiday,” said Astrid, who is a financial manager of a liquid gas company in Rotterdam.

Photographer Tony Hartawan and reporter Nurdin Kalim had a similarly unique experience when they climbed Mount Rinjani in Lombok. They didn’t take the Sembalun and Senaru trails normally taken by climbers. Instead, they took the 45 degree-angled Torean trail, normally used by locals intending to do spiritual pilgrimage, or rescue personnel evacuating

B e h i n d T h e L e n s

Photographer Gunawan Wicaksono in Ratenggaro village.

victims of accidents. They walked for five days and six nights, pitching tents when it got dark, until they reached the peak at 3,726 meters above sea level. “This is a crazy trail,” said Tony. He had sprained his ankle along the way and wouldn’t have gone on if not for the traditional treatment of a local villager.

Amston Probell also went through a similar sprain and swelling on his arm after he fell inside a slippery surface of the Gua Barat stalagmite cave in Kebumen, Central Java. At a depth of 70 meters below the earth’s surface, Amston and Tempo Yogyakarta bureau chief, Sunudyantoro, crossed a subterranean river to reach the multi-hued water fall. Aided by four Yogyakarta Atma Jaya university students, they found the magical site after traipsing for nine hours. “The lens on my cameras got bent after I fell so many times and became cloudy because of the humidity,” said Probell.

Meanwhile, photographer Rully Kesuma had trained himself to swim and dive while carrying a camera before he set out for Kwatisore in Nabire, Papua, in order to photograph the whale shark. This was the reason Kwatisore was chosen for the diving category. But all that training with the proper diving equipment became useless when the shoot began. “The whale shark was huge, it suddenly appeared right under my nose,” recalled Rully. In the end, his best pictures were when he shot the whales by diving freely, without any dive equipment.

Photographer Ayu Ambong had to overcome her distate for mountain trekking in order to shoot Banda Naira, the small island southeast of Ambon, Maluku. To get the best angle, she had to climb the 600-meter high Gunung Api volcano. Banda Naira is also known as the place where Mohammad Hatta, one of Indonesia’s proclamators of independence, was exiled by the Dutch colonial government, from 1936 to 1942.

Ayu had almost given up if her colleagues, Agung Sedayu and Lukman Ang, had not kept an eye on her, so she could get her shots without slipping on the hot, slippery slope of the volcano. But she finally found the right spot and angle, capturing the sight of the beautiful island with her camera from the top of the volcano. “To think that Bung Hatta climbed this mountain every morning,” said Ayu. They had gotten the story from Hatta’s own daughter, Meutia, who just happened to be in Banda Naira at the same time. l

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A Sublime SunSet Photo: Ratih Purnama, Text: Bagja Hidayat

Togean Island Is Ideal for honeymooners: IT Is beyond any communIcaTIon sIgnal, The sea Is serenely safe for snorkelIng and dIvIng and The sunseTs on The beach are To dIe for. IT Is, afTer all, In The cenTer of The coral TrIangle, The mosT exoTIc marIne flora and fauna sITe In The world.

Togean Island, Central Sulawesi

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In the distance, a pair of Danish tourists held hands as they floated on the crystal-clear waters. The afternoon waves, which had begun to subside, buffeted their slender bodies. “The coral and fish are amazing,” said Sidsel Filipsen, a student at the University of Copenhagen, returning to a thatch-roofed hut after swimming for half an hour. Next to her, Adam Veng, Sidsel’s boyfriend, shook his long, wavy hair.

Like most European tourists who visit Kadidiri, Sidsel and Adam knew about the Togean Islands from a page in a Lonely Planet travel guide. There isn’t much information in English available on the internet about this small cluster of islands in Tomini Bay, Central Sulawesi, nor how to get there.

There are 66 small islands in the Togean waters. Of the few which offer accommodation, Kadidiri is

NOT only had the wind died down, the waves were now a soft roll of water gushing onto Kadidiri Beach. The water only rustled against the rough wall of coral, gliding over the white sands. The glow of a mid-October sunset bathed the beach in perfect silence, as

the light silhouetted a wooden bridge leading to a gazebo perched on the sea. sulawesi

Togean Talatakoh

WaleabahiWaleakodi

Wakai

Batudaka

Kadidiri

Arriving tourists at Black Marlin Resort.

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the most famous. There are three cottages: Black Marlin, Pondok Lestari and Kadidiri Paradise. In addition to being the closest from Wakai, a dock in the middle of the bay where ships plying the Gorontalo-Ampana route stop, this island is the easiest point for reaching diving and snorkeling spots. The small islands around it, one of them Taipi Island, slow down the winds coming in from the sea, making its beach great for swimming.

Although Kadidiri has been developed as a tourism spot since 1995, not many Indonesians know about the island. “Most of our guests are from Europe,” said Yani Tahir, owner of Black Marlin. In mid-October, which is not a peak period, her 16 rooms were fully booked by vacationing couples from Holland, France, Germany, Hungary, Denmark and England.

The 60-year-old woman from Gorontalo opened her business 18 years ago after purchasing a 1,000-square-meter coconut grove. Yani built some lodges after tourists kept asking her son-in-law, who managed the Blue Marlin resort in Lombok, West Nusa Tenggara, about other seas that were good for diving but were relatively quiet.

Yani received similar questions at her hotel in Wakai. So she and her husband took a look at Kadidiri, which was still heavily forested. Since then, Togean—or Togian in the local dialect—started to become well-known. Crispin Gibbs, Yani’s British son-in-law, spread information about pristine Togean to tourists visiting Lombok or Bali.

However, certain difficulties to reach the spot have made some tourists reluctant to pay a visit. From Jakarta it takes two days to reach Kadidiri. The nearest airport is in Poso, which does not have a direct flight from the Indonesian capital. You have

accommodatioN

Black MarlinRoom rates: Rp200,000 to Rp400,000 per night per person Snorkeling equipment can be hired at Rp 50,000 per set per day Boats for hire:Rp850,000 a day for a maximum of six passengers. Excess of six people, fees of Rp125,000 is charged per person; Rp600,000 for half day trips

Kayaks for hire:» Rp100,000 half day» Rp150,000 full day

Black Marlin Resort’s dock in Kadidiri Island.

Kadidiri Island.

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2

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Diving PackageRp1.2 million for 8 people. Excess of eight people, fees of Rp150.000 is charged per person. Kadidiri ParadiseRoom rates: Rp175,000 to Rp500,000

Diving: Rp400,000 to Rp600,000

Diving Courses: Rp4 million to Rp10 million

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to make a stopover in Makassar. From Poso, it is a five-hour trip over winding and damaged roads to Ampana, capital of Tojo Una-Una regency. Only in 2015 will this regency get its own airport.

From Ampana, visitors must take a five-hour ferry to the Wakai dock, and the service does not run every day. Cottage owners provide motorboats in Wakai to take tourists to their accommodations, which is a 15-minute trip. For this reason, when visiting Kadidiri or the other islands in Togean, travelers must have previously booked rooms in order to get picked up. If one arrives without a reservation, besides the risk of not getting a room, one could very well be left waiting in Wakai.

The island, which is about the size of Singapore, has no cell-phone signal. Even though a pole with a booster is in place, the signal is currently still unreliable. Electricity comes from a diesel generator powered by fuel brought in from Wakai. Clean water is also brought in. Yani spends Rp20 million a month for water and diesel delivery costs. This is the most reasonable option, because getting water by drilling into the hills behind the cottages requires expensive technology.

This makes Kadidiri a dream destination for some: quiet beaches, clear water and rich marine life, plus the bonus of no phone signals, electricity and other modern amenities. Foreign tourists say these islands located on the ‘tongue’ of Sulawesi are great for honeymooners.

Besides the beach, there are many other places to visit. The Togean Islands are located between the Wallace and Weber lines—the imaginary lines that separate Asian and Australasian biota—a zone where the seas and forests contain the richest biodiversity in the world. Its seas are in the Coral Triangle, which runs from Australia to the Java Sea to the waters of the Philippines in the Pacific.

The convergence of mountains undersea has resulted in Togean having four types of coral not found in any other sea: atolls, barrier reef, fringing reef and patch reef. These diverse formations and colorful coral are home to many species of tropical and sub-tropical fish. In Batu Lemboto, a coral formation can be seen which looks like a giant sea turtle swimming on the seabed.

In Malenge, a two-hour motorboat ride away from Kadidiri, a colorful atoll at a depth of 10 meters below surface can be witnessed without the need to budge from the boat. This reef is surrounded by rings of coral which break the surface during low tide. Fishermen of the Bajo ethnic group who live on the surrounding islands have set up huts here to take cover during sudden squalls and storms.

Not far from Malenge, there is another atoll which is separated from the main sea by a meter-thick coral wall. The saltwater Lake Mariona is home to brown,

white, red and blue jellyfish. One can swim with them with no worries of getting stung. Like at Derawan Island in East Kalimantan, jellyfish in Malenge are non- poisonous. The difference is, Derawan only boasts red jellyfish. “In this lake there are so many of them,” said Max Berger, 34, a German tourist.

An undersea coral wall at Malenge separates the

Swimming in the crystal-clear Taipi Beach.

Closer than Karina from the Kadidiri Island, Taipi

Island provides lodgings on

the beach with breathtaking views of the corals and

serene waters.

taipi islaNd

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Via Gorontalo

Jakarta-Gorontalo, 2 hoursAirlines: Garuda, Lion, Sriwijaya

Waris Gorontalo Seaport-Wakai, 12 hoursTomini Tuna Ship 8pm Central Indonesia Time (WITA)Fare: Rp100,000

Wakai-Kadidiri 15 minutesPicked up by the lodging’s boat

Via Palu

Jakarta-Palu, 2 hoursAirlines: Garuda, Lion, Sriwijaya, Batavia

Palu-Ampana, 10 hours

Palu-Poso-Ampana bus route, leaving at 10am and 5pm WITAPalu-Ampana travel bus fare: Rp110,000

Ampana-Wakai, 5 hoursExcept on Friday, the ship to Wakai leaves at 10am WITA Fare: Rp50,000

Wakai-Kadidiri 15 minutesPicked up by a boat owned by one’s lodgings

In addition to Kadidiri Island, the islands of Togean contain a number of resorts for snorkeling and diving. Such facilities can be found on the islands

of Taipi, Una-Una, Karina, Katupat, Kundurun and Malenge. Getting there from Jakarta takes two days using air, land and sea transportation.

Despite the long journey, taking a vacation here does not cost an incredible amount. From Jakarta, at least Rp5 million is required for transportation,

accommodation and snorkeling gear rental for a week.

three routes to togeaN

» Arrival at Ampana should be adjusted to the ship’s schedule if you do not want to stay overnight. There are numerous hotels if you have to spend the night in the capital of Tojo Unauna regency. At the Oasis Hotel, the deluxe room rate with twin beds is Rp240,000 per night.

» The motor vessel at Wakai is provided by the hotels. Therefore, room reservations should be previously secured at lodgings in Kadidiri.

The three routes end at Wakai seaport, the largest seaport on the Island of Batudaka. The easiest way is via Gorontalo. Despite the 12-hour sea

journey, this route provides few transportation transfers.

recommeNdatioN:

shallow waters from the deep, making the blues and the greens of the water distinct even from the air. As sunset falls, the waves become stronger. “The undercurrent gets very strong,” said Zulkifli Labano, a Wakai fisherman who acted as our guide. Only Bajo fishermen, trained in seafaring from childhood, can navigate the waves here. Max Berger was lucky enough to spot a hammerhead shark as big as a man’s thigh on this atoll border.

The Bajo live on the small islands around the Togean Sea. They build wooden houses on tall stilts in the water. For the children, the sea is a vast playground. A two-year-old merrily jumped off the porch of his house into water three meters deep, housing a splendid variety of anemones, water snakes and sea urchins on the seabed.

On a number of islands, the Bajo live side by side with people of other ethnicities: Bugis, Makassar and Wakai. They only live apart on Kabalutan Island. The Bajo originated from the Sulu Islands in Southern Philippines, where they lived a nomadic sea life. Voyages made hundreds of years ago brought them to the waters of Sulawesi and Lombok, where they established a large settlement which came to be known as Labuan Bajo.

Few Bajo know about their origins, including the elders among them. The present generation only know that their parents came from Bajo communities on other islands around Sulawesi and Maluku. None mentioned the Sulu Islands. “All I know is that our ancestors are from Banggai Island near Luwuk,” said Tinur Munggong, a 60-year-old man who lives on Salaka Island.

It is fun to watch the Bajo catch fish. They cast their nets and slap the water in unison. To catch octopus, the fisherfolk lean the lower halves of their bodies on the skiff while submerging their heads and shoulders in the water. Fish spearing is their most skillful practice. The Bajo can dive for up to five to 10 minutes at a time, and can even walk on the seabed aided only by goggles, while spearing barracuda, a fierce and swift fish, at a depth of 30 meters.

On Papan Island, which is inhabited by 162 Bajo families, there is a swaying kilometer-long wooden bridge which reaches Malenge Island, the center of the district. The Bajo, who have begun to intermarry with the locals, have started living on land, going to school and shopping in the markets. In fact, they are also familiar with politics. The Bajo neighborhoods are currently full of posters of candidates running for the legislature, touting their mugshots and slogans, hoping to get votes on Election Day in 2014.

After going around Bajo neighborhoods, tourists can go diving to explore the wonders of the undersea. Compared to Bunaken or Wakatobi, the undersea here boasts many spots in still pristine condition. One of these is Una-Una Island. An old United States

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bomber shot down by Japanese forces in 1945 can be witnessed, sunk at a depth of 40 meters. The plane’s fuselage is still intact and has become home to various types of coral and millions of fish.

According to Nick Cormack, a diving instructor at Black Marlin from Northern Ireland, the topography in Togean is different from Bunaken, Wakatobi or Lembeh. While the seabed in Bunaken is uneven from the many valleys and slopes of coral mountains, Togean is flatter, and divers can enjoy the gradual transition from shallow to deep waters.

Togean’s undersea beauty, home to rare sea horses, has become endangered by harmful fishing practices. Fishermen often use dynamite to catch fish. Owners of lodges, like Yani Tahir, have to make agreements with fishermen not to use depth charges. “If bombed, the coral will be damaged. Then what will the divers have to look at?” Yani said.

But such contracts are not enough. In the current election campaign period, candidates hoping to win office are offering themselves to fishermen as potential lobbyists to lift the ban on depth charges. According to Nick, bombing practices will continue in the Togean Sea as long as local government doesn’t provide a regular patrol to prevent fishermen from using dynamite. “Right now the number of officers is not enough to monitor such a large sea,” he said.

The problem is, the government of Tojo Una-Una

Dutch tourists, Astrid-Irene van Etten and Arjan Kampman, diving in Taipi Beach.

On May 9, 1945, a United States bomber was shot down

by Japanese forces and sank in the waters off

Togean Island. The plane, at a depth of 42 meters, has a still-intact

fuselage, and is now home to various types of coral and

millions of fish.

wwiibomber

is against the Togean Sea becoming a national park, even though President Megawati Soekarnoputri made it official in 2004. “The regent is not pleased because to his view, this spells the end of the community’s livelihood,” said Akbar Lahay, spokesman for the regency government. He thinks it was enough to have a sea patrol of 21 civil service police officers monitoring the different areas of the island each day. However, after a week there, we had not run into a single patrolman.

The Togean Sea is too beautiful to be destroyed—it needs to be seriously safeguarded in the name of preserving local income. After all the swimming and diving, the Togean Sea can still offer the simple joy of rowing a kayak out to the middle to enjoy the perfect stillness, as the red of a sunset penetrates the coral and reflects off the wonderous colors of the fish.l

14

Kiluan Bay, Lampung

tHe DOlPHinS’ ORCHeStRA

the waters of Kiluan Strait will not let the morning gloom linger. One day in May last year, as the waves weakly crashed, a group of fishermen on wooden boats sailed around it. Each was looking at a different direction; until suddenly one boat sent out a signal, point at one direction.

There at the pointed direction, a school of dolphins swam rapidly; jumping to the surface every once in a while, gasping for air. One dolphin leaped from one point, others at another.

Here, morning is the time of the dolphin orchestra. When the sun shines brightly, hundreds of them will surface. Nevertheless, it drizzled that May, so only dozens appeared.

The Kiluan Strait is four hours away from Bandar Lampung. Located in Tanggamus Regency, Lampung, the land route was torturous, since the road was heavily damaged – there were bridgeless small rivers and steep roads. It is advised not to drive a sedan to this area.

To catch a glimpse of the dolphins, you need to spend at least two days and one night at the Kiluan Strait, since they only appear in the morning – you can use the second day to rest. The strait also offers charming snorkeling spots aside from the white sandy beach. There is also a lagoon the size of half an Olympic-size swimming pool.

Unfortunately, there are not many tour operators yet. One of them, Kiluan Dolphin, only provides a two-room lodging accommodation. Visitors who do not receive rooms will have to sleep in a tent. l

Sebuku Island, South Kalimantan

ReCORDS OF An AnCient iSlAnD

the accounts of this little island in Kotabaru Regency, South Kalimantan have been recorded since the Majapahit era. In an old Javanese eulogy called Kakawin Negarakertagama, Mpu Prapanca called the island “Sawaku”. The view from the island is very beautiful: the calm blue sea lies alongside

the enchanting green hills.It takes 12 hours to get to this island. The land

route starts from Banjarmasin, the capital of South Kalimantan, to the Batulicin Harbor in Tanah Bumbu Regency. The distance is around 270 kilometers and takes four hours to travel.

Ferries at the Batulicin Harbor will take you to the Tanjung Serdang Harbor in Kotabaru. Then the journey continues by motorboat to Sungai Bali, the capital of Sebuku Island.

In Sebuku Island, with the help of the village head, you can stay with the locals. l

KiluaN bay,

lampuNg• Krakatau

LampungTour&Travel, 19-25 Kartini Street, Bandar Lampung, Phone: +62-721-263625

• WaykaBahariTours&Travel,Villa Citra Blok RD-10, Antasari Street, Bandar Lampung, Phone: +62-721-706123

• WitaSejahteraPermai,39 Ikan Lumba-lumba Street, Bandar Lampung, Phone: +62-721-481889

sebuKu islaNd, south

KalimaNtaN • NaffTour&Travel,

48/11 Lambung Mangkurat Street, Banjarmasin, Phone: +62-511-3358444, e-mail: naff_bjm@ymail.com

• AdiAngkasaTour&Travel, 27 Hasanuddin HM Street, Banjarmasin, Phone: +62-511-52920

• PTVioletaMegahWisata,Kuripan Street, Banjarmasin, Phone: +62-511-3253305

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15

iNformatioN ceNter

Tourism OfficeCentral Sulawesi Province Culture and Tourism Board 91/45 Dewi Sartika Street, Palu, Central Sulawesiwebsite: www.disbudpar.sulteng.go.ide-mail: pariwisata.sulteng@gmail.com

Travel AgentPT nDS Tour & Travel20 Tg. Pesik Street, Palu, Central SulawesiPhone: +62-451-451051e-mail: randhy8686@yahoo.com

PT Rajawali Ashab24 Sis Aljufri Street, Palu,Central SulawesiPhone: +62-451-4725858

Fax.: +62-451-422095Contact: Mr. Abdurrahim Husen Badjebere-mail: aim_husen@yahoo.co.id

Avia Express T & T4 Dr. Moh. Hatta Street, Palu, Central SulawesiPhone: +62-451-422895

Ananda Tour & Travel IndonesiaGedung Ananda Grup 252 Sindang Barang Loji Street, Bogor, West JavaPhone: +62-251-8328869, +62-251-8328728, +62-251-3971728

Website: http://www.anandatours.com e-mail: anandatur@gmail.com

16

Tojo Una-Una, Central Sulawesi TE

MP

O/S

TR/F

ah

Mi a

li

b e a c h

17

b e a c h

liaNg beach,

ceNtral maluKu

• AmbonDiveCenter,Pantai Namalatu Street, Latuhata, Ambon, Phone: +62-911-55685

• PesonaWisataMarina,Wim Rawaru Street, Ambon, Phone: +62-911-43473

• DayaPatal, Said Perintah Street, Ambon, Phone: +62-911-53344

Liang Beach, Central Maluku

WHeRe tHe WinD bReeZeS GentlY

the beach takes its name from its location: Liang Village, Salahutu District, Central Maluku. It also has another name: Hunimua Beach. Thanks to its enchanting underwater view, in 1990 the beach was dubbed as the most beautiful place in Indonesia by the United Nations Development Programme (UNDP).

White sands stretch across the 1-kilometer-long, 300-meter-wide beach. The beach feels a lot more shaded and the wind breezes more gently between September and November, and April and May. In other months, the water tends to be murky due to big waves.

There are many available public transports to take you to Hunimua, which is located around 40 kilometers from the Pattimura International Airport. Besides taxi, you can also get on a Trans Amboina bus, which costs around Rp 10,000. The roads are smooth, so it only takes 30 minutes to get to your destination. l

Rawa Buaya, West Java

On tHe tOPAZ WAteRS

rawa Buaya Beach, also known as Rancabuaya, has a rocky contour. Located in the Purbayani Village in Caringin District, Garut, 2 of the 10 acres beach area have been utilized for tourism facilities. From a certain height, you can see the beach as well as the topaz waters of the Indian Ocean and

its big waves. About 167 kilometers from Bandung, the beach

can be reached in six hours by car. The journey to Rancabuaya presents you with amazing views of the

mountains, rice paddies and tea plantations.Villas and lodgings are available at varied rates.

There are also many restaurants and several health facilities. l

Teluk Hijau, East Java

SHineS liKe An emeRAlD

stepping into Teluk Hijau – Green Bay – in the Meru Betiri National Park in Banyuwangi, East Java is like entering the Garden of Eden. The sands are white and soft, making them a comfortable landing for the crystal clear water. Beyond the splashing waves is the sea; one that looks like an emerald cauldron filled

with water, exuding green light. One coral reef sits on the beach; little trees grow on it. Tall coral reefs frame the beach on its right and left sides, keeping it hidden.

To get there, there are several options: you can get on a fisherman’s boat (jukung), trek through the woods or hitch a ride on a four-wheeled vehicle. The bay is so secluded that tourists rarely go there. Last year in August, for example, only eight foreign tourists came to bathe in the warm water.

Meru Betiri is a 58,000-acre national park in the south of Jember and Banyuwangi Regencies, East Java. The national park has a variety of amazing natural vegetations. There are also beautiful beaches, mountains and woods. Wild animals like tigers, Javanese buffalos, and various kinds of

Rawa Buaya

rawa buaya,

west Java• Vayatour,42

Sunda Street, Bandung, Phone: +62-22-4261739

• PTAbadiWisataTour&Travel, 5 Mochammad Toha Street, Bandung, Phone: +62-22-5201104

• Aerotravel, 81 Asia Afrika Street, Bandung, Phone: +62-22-4203657

18

eagles and deer take refuge in the park. At night, turtles would lay eggs in some of its beaches. l

Kaimana, West Papua

unDeR tHe AubuRn SKY

Kaimana offers more than just a beautiful auburn sky during the sunset; it also offers an underwater paradise. Between October and March, many live-a-board sailboats carry foreign divers to this bay. When the eastern wind blows and the big waves splash, Triton Bay becomes a sanctuary for sharks.

They look for little fish that hide around the bay as the sun is about to set. Dolphins play and once in a while leap from the water surface, offering a beautiful view that can be enjoyed as you journey across the bay.

Other vacation spots include Iris Strait, Namatote Island, Dramai Island, Adi Island, Nusurumi Island, Mauwara Island, Semisarom Island and Venue Island. Fishing and jet skiing are best at Aiduma Island. Walking through the woods for 7 kilometers, you will arrive at Kamaka Lake. l

Tanjung Tinggi, Bangka Belitung

CHAmbeRS OF tHe RAinbOW tROOPS

we arrived in Andrea Hirata’s birthplace with Andrea Hirata. Indeed, the novel-turned-movie Laskar Pelangi (The Rainbow Troops) is set in Belitung. One not-so-sunny afternoon, we visited Tanjung Tinggi, a beach with big rocks, white sands and weak waves.

It is said that the rocks were actually meteors. This theory is plausible, since there is no volcano nearby

that can potentially belch rocks. One thing for sure, these rocks divide the long beach into several parts, forming what look like chambers along the beach. If you sit among the rocks, you will be hidden from the other people’s sight.

Riding on a boat for a while, you will find yourself at Lengkuas Beach, where a tall, white lighthouse stands. There, you can swim when the tide is high or walk to an otherwise-hidden little island when the tide is low. At night, there are a lot of traditional stalls selling teh tarik or milk tea. l

taNJuNg tiNggi, baNgKa

belituNg• JasaArmex,

19/34 May Syafri Rachman Street, Pangkal Pinang, Phone: +62-717-422401

• MegaWisata, Depati Amir Airport, Pangkal Pinang, Phone: +62-717-434488

• LubukUsahaCitraKita,104 Jenderal Ahmad Yani Dlm Street, Pangkal Pinang, Phone: +62-717-437563

teluK hiJau,

east Java • AdiGiantWisata,

194C Kapasan Street, Surabaya, Phone: +62-31-310881

• PTAkasaHoliday, 19 Urip Sumoharjo Street, Surabaya, Phone: +62-31-5457945

• HaryonoTour,27-29 Sulawesi Street, Surabaya, Phone: +62-31-5034000

KaimaNa, west papua

• CahayaAlamAgung,39 Kota Baru Street, Manokwari, Phone: +62-962-21153

• MakmurThomasTravel, 1/14 Ahmad Yani Street, Sorong, Phone: +62-967-33593

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19

Sekaroh Village, West Nusa Tenggara

PinK SAnDS in tHe SOutH OF RinJAni

in the past, it was called Tangsi Beach for it used to be a Japanese port during the Second World War. Traces of military occupation are evident in the tunnels and remainders of the canons that face the open sea.

Today, the name has been changed to Pink Beach, due to the color of the sand

that stretches across the half-kilometer beach. The color becomes even more obvious when the waves and the ray of the sun fall on them.

The sands are originally white. The pink color is the result of a reflection from the coral reefs. Located by the Indian Ocean, the beach is a safe place to swim, thanks to its calm waves. When it is sunny, the Rinjani Mountain in the north can be seen from here.

Part of the Tanjung Ringgit Beach, Pink Beach is located at the Sekaroh Village in Jerowaru District, East Lombok, West Nusa Tenggara. Traveling from Mataram, the beach can be reached in two hours.

Not far from there are Temeak and Colong Beaches. Both are separated by a coral-covered hill. If you wish to visit both beaches, you only need to climb over the rocks.

Lodgings can only be found 4 kilometers away from the beach and they cost around Rp 1.7 million per night. Hence, it is advised that you bring your own tent and camping gears. l

seKaroh village,

west Nusa teNggara

• LombokIndependentTour&Travel,Gunung Kerinci Street, Mataram, Phone: +62-364-23242

• MantaDive, Gili Trawangan, West Lombok, Phone: +62-370-643649

• FirelliTour&Travel,Mataram, Mr. Didik (+62-431-811119, +62812125254243), email: firelli-tour@centrin.net.id

• HoneyTour, Endang Gunawan ( +628176941777), Zikri (+6281802156188), Herdi (+6281995194009)

20

Cubadak, West Sumatra

tHe itAliAn’S HOliDAY PARADiSe

gian Luigi Casalegno has managed the Cubadak Paradiso Village for 21 years. Located in the south of West Sumatera, the 40-square-kilometer island houses the 68-year-old Italian man’s 15 bungalows that are provided for tourists. To maintain the serenity of the beach, Luigi limits the number

of visitors to 35 people per day.Surrounded by the Indian Ocean, the island is

situated on a bay, preventing the ocean wind to blow straight at it. The sea is calm and clear that the corals and fish can be seen from the surface. If you grow bored of swimming or diving in the 16 spots that

spread around the lodging area, you can try hiking the steep mountain that is just behind the cottage. From the mountain’s top, the sea and island look like paradise.

Cubadak can be reached from the Corocok Harbor, 70 kilometers from the Minangkabau Airport in Padang Pariaman. From Corocok, the destination can be reached in 15 minutes by motorboat, which Casalegno provides. Caselagno said that Indonesian tourists were familiar with Cubadak only after the Europeans dominated his rooms. The room rate is Rp 1 million per person per night. The price already includes fee for snorkeling gears and three Italian meals. l

Koka Beach, East Nusa Tenggara

lAKe AmiD tHe HillS

about 45 kilometers from the capital of Sikka Regency in Flores, East Nusa Tenggara is Koka Beach. The easiest way to reach it is by car. Visitors can rent a car from the Frans Seda Airport in Maumere.

In the past, to go to Koka Beach, people had to walk 2 kilometers through Jl. Wolowiro,

since the street was too narrow to be passed by any vehicle. Thanks to Father Theodorus Yoseph Visser, the narrow street has now been widened and paved, so that four-wheeled vehicles can reach the beach.

Sheltered by hills, Koka Beach is completely hidden from the city’s hustle and bustle. You will find no souvenir merchant and stall; let alone restaurant and hotel. Come during weekdays – you will be accompanied by just the white sands and the clear lake. l

KoKa beach,

east Nusa teNggara• PT Floressa Travel,

15 Mawar Street, Kupang, Phone: +62-380-832012

• PT Teddys Travel, 1 Ikan Tongkol Street, Kupang, Phone: +62-380-822422

• PT Incito Tour, 11 Moh. Yamin Street, Sikka, Phoe: +62-382-21786

• Aldecaf Tour and Travel, Gatot Subroto Street, Sikka, Phone: +62-383-23567

cubadaK, west

sumatra

• EkaSukmaWisata, 21 Juanda Street, Padang, Phone: +62-751-31670

• NitourInc., 10 Hiligoo Street, Padang, Phone: +62-751-38008

• TunasIndonesia, 86-B Pondok Street, Padang, Phone: +62-751-32806

• ErmiTour&Travel, Padang, Ms. Nur (+6281347841052), Mr. Edy (+6285263308618), Ms. Suci (+6281298933383), email: ermitours@yahoo.com & info@ermitours.com

• HoneyTour, Endang Gunawan ( +628176941777), Zikri (+6281802156188), Herdi (+6281995194009)

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21

22

A TrAil less TAken

Located between the mountains of Rinjani and sankaReang, the toRean tRaiL offeRs panoRamic vaRiety. fiRst, the cLimbeR goes though thick foRest, dense bRush, down a vaLLey, thRough unduLating RiveRs, wateRfaLLs and a few hot wateR hoLes, fLowing down onto a cave. this tRaiL is a haRdeR but faR inteResting Route towaRds mount Rinjani than the betteR known senaRu and sembaLun.

Mount Rinjani, Lombok

Photo: Tony Hartawan, Text: Nurdin Kalim23

m o u n t a i nm o u n t a i n

the sound of dogs barking carried through the darkness that cold, misty morning in Torean. Our footsteps on the rocky dirt road in this hamlet at the foot of Mount Rinjani drew us closer to the dogs, and they began to bark even more loudly. “The dogs help us guard the cornfields, cocoa plantation and cows,” said

Amak herni, 56, a local senior porter. We—myself, photographer Tony hartawan and

two experienced climbers from Lombok, Safriyudi and Ruslan—began our climb to the summit of Mount Rinjani from Torean in mid-October. This hamlet, a part of Loloan village, Bayan, North Lombok regency, West Nusa Tenggara, which is inhabited by 180 families, is perched at a height of about 600 meters above sea level. It is the home to the Sasak, an indigenous ethnic group of Lombok island, most of whom plant corn and cocoa and raise livestock, mainly cows, for a living.

The mountain climbing route through Torean is not as popular as the ones through Senaru and Sembalun, two routes which climbers usually take to the top of Mount Rinjani. The local populace use this route as a way to reach Mount Rinjani National Park. They usually traverse the Torean route when going for ritual bathing in natural hot springs found at several locations along the way. Those who want

to go fishing in Lake Segara Anak also pass Torean.The Torean route offers a variety of panoramic

views. All along the route, which is flanked by the slopes of Mount Rinjani and Mount Sangkareang, are views of dense forest, cliffs, valleys, rivers, waterfalls and natural hot springs, some of which are inside caves.

By the time the morning sun had started to rise, we had put some distance between us and Torean hamlet. Crickets were chirping in the trees. Wind whistled through the leaves. After crossing a locally owned cornfield and cocoa plantation, we took up a footpath. Breathing became increasingly difficult.

The three porters guiding us continued walking. Only wearing sandals, Musdiana looked as if he was on a casual stroll. The two baskets full of food and supplies he was carrying, weighing about 25 kilograms, did not seem to weigh him down. The slim 24-year-old from Bawah enau hamlet, Sembalun, east Lombok regency, kept giving encouragement as my pace began to slack.

Jamaludin, 28, his colleague from the same

Mount Rinjani (3,726 meter)

Lake Segara Anak

Mataram

Sembalun

Senaru

lombok islandTorean rouTe, Lombok.

24

hamlet, looked even more relaxed. Also only wqearing sandals, this man with two wives was on phone with one of them—as it happened he was still getting a signal on his cell phone. This was despite the fact that this man sporting a mohawk was carrying an 80-liter backpack full of food and climbing supplies.

This was also the case with Amak herni, a senior porter and guide from Torean. Also clad only in sandals, and carrying two baskets full of food, cooking equipment and supplies, this grandfather of two seemed to walk effortlessly and briskly.

We had asked Amak herni, who is also a cultural elder in Torean hamlet, to come along as he was very familiar with the climbing route. The two others had little experience traversing it. Despite having been a porter since he was a teenager, Jamaludin had only passed this route four or five times. “I usually take guests over the Sembalun or Senaru routes,” the burly man said.

According to Safriyudi, there were several factors that made climbers, especially those from outside

Lombok, reluctant to pass Torean. One reason was the poor roads leading to Torean. Starting from the three-way intersection at Loloan village, only half of the road to Torean was paved. even the paved section had begun to fall apart and was full of holes. The rest consisted of steep and rocky dirt roads. There was no public transportation, only motorcycle taxis and trucks passing through the area.

When we passed through, it appeared that a road paving project had stopped. “hopefully, if the road is paved, many climbers will want to pass through Torean,” said Amak herni as we rested on a wide stretch of earth, the demarcation line between the planting area of the people from Torean and the forest of Mount Rinjani National Park.

Torean also lacked even the simplest of lodgings. Climbers usually stay overnight in Amak herni’s home, where he provides a place to rest called a beruga—a type of gazebo with six pillars, made from wood and bamboo with a thatched leaf roof. he has three such beruga which can be used for an overnight stay. each costs Rp250,000-300,000 per night for a group of five, dinner and breakfast included.

After resting for about 15 minutes at the border of the national park, we continued our journey through the forest. The trees formed a tightly knit canopy that blocked out the heat of the sun. The leaves gave us shade as we climbed a steep ridge and descended a valley at a 45-degree angle.

The forest was full of pine, Chinese toon, rattan and carambola trees, as well as ferns. Drongos birds flew about and alighted on some treetops. A trickle of water could be heard from a small river, not far from the hiking trail. The sound of monkeys echoed in the distance.

Four hours from Torean, we arrived in Plawangan. Across from here was the Penimbungan waterfall, about 100 meters tall. Located at a cave at a height of 1,200 meters, Plawangan was filled with stones of varying sizes. On a flat rock near the edge of the ravine sat a ritual offering with some incense still burning.

The local populace believes that Plawangan—which means door—is the true entry point to the natural area around Mount Rinjani. They usually perform a ritual of burning incense before continuing their journey. “To ask for a blessing, so that they will have a safe trip climbing Rinjani,” Amak herni said.

The panoramic views incomparable to the Senaru and Sembalun routes began after we crossed a vertical wooden bridge attached to the cliff at Plawangan. We followed a path through the valley, flanked by Mount Rinjani and Mount Sangkareang. The sides of the mountain ridges were green, covered in grass and weeds. At several points along the ridge were rows of lush pine trees.

We passed through this valley area by following a

How to Get tHere

From Praya International

Airport in Central

Lombok, you can take a taxi

or Damri bus to Mataram. The

taxi costs about Rp120,000,

while the bus will run

you for about Rp25,000.

25

m o u n t a i n

narrow footpath. Sometimes we had to climb steep ridges sloped at 45 degree to 60 degree angles. In some parts, we passed paths where there were steep drops of 50 meters to 100 meters on either side. “It is not recommended for climbers to pass the Torean route at night. It is very dangerous,” said Safriyudi.

Because it was time for lunch, and because we were so tired from passing the valley, we took a long break in Propok. Jamaludin prepared the cooking gear. Musdiana went to collect some water. Amak herni gathered some dry twigs. even though we had brought along a gas stove and cooking set, the porters preferred to cook with wood. “It makes the food taste better,” Jamaludin said.

Propok was a rather broad flat area located at a height of 1,511 meters, and it was full of pine trees, grass and weeds. It also marked the confluence of two large rivers. One river flowed with clear, potable water. The other river, the Kokok Putih, contained sulfur, as it starts at Lake Segara Anak. On one side of the Kokok Putih was a natural hot spring. I soaked in the hot water to rejuvenate myself.

The trip to Susu cave was easier. Sometimes the climbing route over the mountain ridge reached a 60-degree angle. It was even steeper in some places, but we were generally able to pass without much trouble. After about 90 minutes, we arrived at the crossroads that led to Susu cave.

Before reaching Susu cave, we stopped at Taman cave, only about 10 meters from the intersection.

Susu cave.

White cloth hung at the entrance of this cave the locals consider sacred. According to Amak herni, the cloth was to be worn by anyone entering Taman cave.

Draped in white cloth, I stepped inside the cave entrance, which was only about half-a-meter in diameter. The room inside the cave was spacious, about 3 by 3 meters, with a height of about two meters. Inside there was a small pool of clear water, which locals considered to be similar to the water of the Zam-Zam well in Mecca.

From Taman cave, we walked to Susu cave, about 500 meters away. entering Susu cave, which has a natural hot spring, felt like stepping into a sauna. hot water dripped from stalactites. It was fun to steam here that I almost did not realize when an hour had passed.

At Susu cave I also met with dozens of local residents who were soaking in the hot spring, which they believed could cure various ailments. They were willing to stay here for three to five days, sleeping in tents. For them, the difficulty of the climb was a test. “For me, this is a ritual. If not blessed by the Almighty, I could not reach here,” said Ahmad, 25, from Jurit village, Masbagik, east Lombok.

Ahmad, who had come with seven others from his village, suffered from health problems like gout and rheumatism. Cultural elders in his village recommended that they soak in the hot spring at Mount Rinjani. “Praise be to God, after two times my

From Mataram, board a public

minibus to Senaru, North

Lombok, for Rp25,000 to Rp30,000.

Before reaching Torean, obtaina permit at the Mount Rinjani

Climbing Post in Senaru.

From Senaru, the Torean

hamlet in Loloan village, North Lombok, can

be reached by groups by chartering a village bus for about

Rp200,000. Individuals

can also take a motorcycle taxi for Rp50,000.

In total, the cost to climb Mount Rinjani via the Torean route is around Rp3

million.

How to Get tHere26

mount rinjani ClimbinG route

via torean

Torean hamlet (600 meters above sea level)This is the last hamlet before one reaches the foot of the

mountain. The ascent begins here.

01

Pancor Greneng post (900 meters)

This rest post is in the woods of mount rinjani national Park.

There is a river and a source of clear water here.

02

Plawangan Torean (1,200 meters)

The locals call this place the entry point to mount rinjani

from Torean. In the local Sasak language, plawangan means

door.

03

Propok post(1,511 meters)

Located at the convergence of two rivers. one river has clean, potable water. The other, the kokok Putih, which starts at

Lake Segara anak, contains sulfur. There is also a hot spring there. There is a large expanse of flat land here along the river,

which can be used as a resting place or to set up tents.

04The Park Cave Complex (1,647 meters), Segara Urung (1,713 meters), and Susu

Cave (1,756 meters)Taman Cave contains a small pool of water

which locals consider miracle water. Segara urung is a hot spring, which can be

used for ritual bathing. The same is true of the Susu Cave, which has a hot spring.

The cave feels like a sauna. Locals usually come here for ritual bathings. They set up

tents and stay for three to five days.

05

Lake Segara Anak (2,000 meters)

The Torean route ends at Lake Segara anak. This is where the Torean route meets with

the two other rinjani climbing routes: Senaru and Sembalun.

06

Senaru

Sembalun

Mount Rinjani

01

02

03

04

05

06

Lake Segara Anak

27

m o u n t a i n

Plawangan Camp, Sembalun at Rinjani Mountain, Lombok, West Nusa Tenggara.

28

Tem

Po

/kIn

k k

uSu

ma

reI

n

Tourism OfficeWest Nusa Tenggara Province Culture and Tourism Board70 Langko, Mataram, west Nusa Tenggarawebsite: www.visitlomboksumbawa.nete-mail: budpar_ntb@yahoo.com

Travel AgentLombok Independent Tour & TravelGunung Kerinci Street, Mataram, West Nusa TenggaraPhone: +62-364-23241

Satriavi Tour & Travel7 Pejanggik StreetPhone: +62-364-21788/23423

Panorama Tour & TravelCatur Warga StreetPhone: +62-364-25679

Big Bubble AdventuresGili Trawangan West Lombok

Phone: +62-370-625020 e-mail: bigbubble@mataram.wasantara.net.idwebsite: http://www.bigbubblediving.com

Manta DiveGili Trawangan, West LombokPhone: +62-370-643649e-mail: info@manta-dive.comwebsite: http://www.manta –dive.com

Firelli Tour &Travel, Mataram, Mr. Didik (+62-431-811119 & +62812125254243), e-mail: firelli-tour@centrin.net.id

Honey Tour, Endang Gunawan (+628176941777), Zikri (+6281802156188), Herdi (+6281995194009)

information Center

29

m o u n t a i nm o u n t a i n

gout was gone,” he said.Tukiyang, a Central Lombok resident, also believed

in the healing power of the hot springs. The 59-year-old man once contracted malaria. he went to the doctor, but his condition often worsened. “After I underwent treatment by soaking in some hot springs in Rinjani, my malaria disappeared,” said Tukiyang, who this time had come to treat his rheumatism.

The special properties of the hot springs of Mount Rinjani were part of a reputation that had been passed down for generations. In a geological survey of Lombok made by Van heek in 1902, there was mention of the famous hot springs of Mount Rinjani, effective for healing various ailments.

The climb via the Torean route ends at Lake Segara Anak at a height of about 2,000 meters above sea level. This lake, which measures about 1,100 square kilometers and has a depth of 230 meters, was the meeting point of the Torean route with the two other Mount Rinjani climbing routes: Sembalun and Senaru.

We arrived at this lake, which is an ancient caldera formed from a major eruption of Mount Samalas in 1257, just as the sun was starting to set towards the west. Its golden light reflected off of the lake’s clear water, shining on the sides of the mountain ridges.

After spending the night at the edge of Lake Segara Anak, the next day we continued our journey to the summit of Mount Rinjani, at 3,726 meters above sea level, passing through Plawangan Sembalun. The sun rose in the east as we reached the peak of this second-highest volcano in Indonesia. l

Mount Rinjani is closed to climbers from January to March. The best time to go by the Torean route is

between May and October. In these months the weather is good and the wind is not too strong. The water level of the (Kokok) Putih River, which this route passes, is also

not too high at that time.

Climbs are best made from morning to late afternoon. It is not recommended to climb this route at night, as it passes many steep ravines which drop off by 50 meters

to 100 meters.At Torean

hamlet, you can hire porters

who double as climbing

guides. The price

ranges from Rp150,000 to

Rp200,000 per day.

wHen to Go

Porter and Guide serviCes

aCCommodations

At Torean hamlet, there is not even a hostel, let alone a hotel. Climbers can stay at the home of Amak Herni—an

elder and cultural figure as well as a porter and senior guide. At this home there are three beruga—a type of gazebo—where climbers can sleep the night. Amak Herni also has a stall which sells snacks, drinks and

logistical supplies for climbers.

Amak Herni has not set a standard rate. To stay at his home, and for dinner and breakfast, our group (of five)

was charged Rp250,000-300,000.

Lake Segara Anak.

Climbers usually ascend Mount Rinjani via the Senaru and Sembalun routes. The Torean route is more

trafficked by local residents who want to undergo a ritual treatment by bathing in the hot springs in the area.

For Hindus, the Torean route is traversed during a mulang pekelem procession, which is held at Lake Segara

Anak. This traditional ritual is usually held on the full moon of the 10th month, around mid-October. For

nature lovers and climbers, the Torean route serves as an evacuation route.

The Torean route, which is flanked by the peaks of Mount Rinjani and Sangkareang, actually has much

more beautiful panoramic views than the Senaru and Sembalun routes. In addition to the dense forest, one

can enjoy views of the valley, winding rivers, waterfalls and even some hot springs, some of which are located

inside caves.

a ritual route

30

Inerie, East Nusa Tenggara

UnDer THe WATCHFUl eYes OF THe GODs

“a humble mountain”; this is what hikers call Inerie, the tallest mountain in Flores Island, implying how beautiful, yet unpopular this mountain is. Its peak, rising high 1,245 meters above sea level, is a stratovolcano – standing tall and proud, visible from any angle.

Only very few people are willing to climb or go for a run here, despite a moderate trekking trail provided in the area, accessible for all. “The best way to experience it is to hike from Bampung Bena just after midnight. You will reach the peak of the mountain just as the sun begins to rise, and then head down to Aimere Beach in the south. Total distance should be 28 kilometers,” remarked hiking guide Philipus.

At the peak of Inerie, according to local myth, is where Flores’ gods of peace reside. One of them is known as Jaramasi the knight god, believed by many to live in a big rock in the south of the mountain. A green, lush forest stands at the top with a variety of endemic plants and birds. The Inerie trek starts from a Bena traditional village in Tiworiwu, Aimere District, around 30 minutes by car from Bajawa, the capital city of Ngada District, east Nusa Tenggara. l

Tambora, Sumbawa

MAGiC OF THe lArGesT CrATer

stepping into the Tambora Mountain will set your memories back to a hundred years ago. In April 1815, the rising volcano in Sumbawa, West Nusa Tenggara, rocked the world with its massive eruption.

There are many reports stating that Tambora’s echoes at the time could be heard all the way in Sumatra. even more phenomenal, following the eruption this mountain almost lost its entire peak, reducing its overall height to 2,851 meters. Thanks to the explosion, Tambora now boasts a massive 7-kilometer-wide crater with a circumference of 16 kilometers.

Surrounded by a desert filled with edelweiss, the crater has now become Tambora’s main appeal. Standing over the crater’s edge, the view of Sumbawa’s crystal-clear blue ocean stretching for miles is a sure treat to the eye. l

inerie, east nusa tenGGara• PT Duta

Nusantara, Sudirman Street, Kupang, Phone: +62-380-821240

• PT Floressa Travel, 15 Mawar Street, Kupang, Phone: +62-380-832012

• PT Teddys Travel, 1 Ikan Tongkol Street, Kupang, Phone: +62-380-822422

tambora, sumbawa

• Lombok Independent Tour & Travel, Gunung Kerinci Street, Mataram, Phone: +62-364-23242

• Arjuna Wisata Lombok Tour & Travel, 4-B Alamanda Street, Mataram, Phone: +62-364-21044

• Satriavi Tour & Travel, 17 Pejanggik Street, Mataram, Phone: +62-364-21788

• Firelli Tour & Travel, Mataram, Mr. Didik (+62-431-811119, +62812125254243), email: firelli-tour@centrin.net.id

• Honey Tour, Endang Gunawan ( +628176941777), Zikri (+6281802156188), Herdi (+6281995194009)

31

m o u n t a i n

binaiya, maluku

• Nanusa, 53 Rijali Street, Ambon, Phone: +62-911-352593

• Pedoman Pratama Travel, 1-65 Dr. Sutomo III Street, Ambon, Phone: +62-911-51703

• Tujuh Jaya Travel Agent, 142-143 Kopra VI Street, Ambon, Phone: +62-911-52342

Binaiya, Maluku

Up FrOM GrOUnD ZerO

the foot of Mount Binaiya in Seram Island, Maluku, cascades to the edge of the ocean. It is safe to say that to climb this 3,027-meter mountain, your adventure literally starts from zero – as in zero meter above the sea level.

Binaiya is the tallest mountain in the Maluku Island, and is one of the tallest summits in

Indonesia. This mountain’s hiking trail is long, steep and slippery. Forest dense with tall, big trees adds more challenges to the adventure. To reach the top, you must go through a rocky hill with sharp turns.

Once you reach the top, however, you will be exposed to a massive land with the size of half a football field. Up there, the chilly wind blows strongly.

Binaiya can be reached from Seram, which can be accessed by ferry from Ambon. From Seram, the journey continues by canoe to Piliana Beach – the starting point of the hike; a newer, shorter route. From here, it will only take you four to five days to the top, and another two to three days to climb down. On the other hand, the old route via Kanikeh will require you to spend a total of 14 days.

Beginner hikers are not recommended to try Binaiya as it poses high danger and risks. The hiking adventure itself requires you a local guide and porter. l

Jayawijaya via Sugapa, Papua

TrAil TOWArDs THe snOW

the peak of Carstensz in Jayawijaya Mountains, Papua – rising high at 4,884 meters above sea level – is blanketed by snow all year. The highest peak in Indonesia, the rocky mountain, which is part of Maoke Mountains or the Sudirman Cluster (Barisan Sudirman), is one of the seven summits of the world, which include the

himalayan everest and the Andes’ Aconcagua. There are three routes to get to Carstensz: through

Ilaga in Nabire district, Freeport in Timika, and Sugapa in Intan Jaya district. Ilaga and Freeport are considered the two most common routes, while Sugapa poses more exciting yet dangerous landscape.

hikers must walk on foot for seven whole days to get to the base camp in Lembah Kuning (Yellow Valley). Afterwards, you will need to climb an 800-meter granite cliff to the top of Carstensz, which takes around 12 to 15 hours. l

Leuser, Aceh

HAVen OF FlOrA AnD FAUnA

for many years, conservation experts have referred Leuser Mountain as the natural wonders of the rare. The place is home to 4,000 exquisite and extremely rare flora and fauna species.

The gigantic Rafflesia Arnoldi and the Amorphophallus titanium can be found in

leuser, aCeH

• Atra Baru Tour &

Travel, 40 Mohd. Jam Street, Banda Aceh, Phone: +62-651-23651

• Tripa Wisata Tour & Travel, 24 Mesjid Raya Street, Banda Aceh, Phone: +62-651-21455

• Natrabu Tour & Travel, Taman Tepi Laut, Lhoknga, Banda Aceh Main Road, Phone: +62-651-32029

jayawijaya via suGaPa,

PaPua • Limbunan Tours &

Travel, 68 Argapura Raya Street, Jayapura, Phone: +62-967-35430, 35498

• Papua Adventure Tour & Travel, Mr. Gantang (+6281344628586 & +62817364243), email: info@papuaadventure.com, info@papuaholidays.com

• Honey Tour, Endang Gunawan ( +628176941777), Zikri (+6281802156188), Herdi (+6281995194009)

32

Leuser. The forest is also the habitat of five major mammals: elephants, tigers, rhinos, bears and orangutans. There is no other natural ecosystem that is home to so many mammals at the same time like Leuser.

It is a no wonder that Leuser is often compared to the Manu ecosystem in Amazon, Brazil, or Congo in Zaire, Africa – it is equally rich in biodiversity. To witness the paradise that is Leuser, you can sail through the Alas River that parts Leuser in the middle, or climb up its amazing mountain peak. l

Latimojong, South Sulawesi

A sliCe OF HeAVen

the Latimojong Mountains stretches as far as three districts in South Sulawesi: enrekang, Palopo and Tana Toraja. Its highest summit is the Rantemario Peak, located 3,478 meters above sea level. Latimojong itself is one of the seven tallest summits in Indonesia.

But it is not the impressive peak that draws

people to Latimojong; it is the view it offers. Try climbing up this mountain and you will undoubtedly be exposed to nature’s utmost beauty. half an hour before into reaching the peak – also known as the 7th Post – the view stretching out before your eyes is simply breathtaking. As far as your sight allows you, endless rows of lush, green forest will engulf you, disappearing into swirls of orange fogs once the afternoon sun sets in. l

Baturraden Adventure Forest, Central Java

BACk TO THe nATUre

baturraden for Jakarta citizens is similar to the Puncak area. This land is located in the south of the foot of Mount Slamet, which at 3,432 meters high is the second tallest volcano in Java. But it is not the Baturraden tourism spot that will become the main story here. Ten minutes from there, lay a place called

Baturraden Adventure Forest (BAF). Built with a back-to-nature concept, this place is located in the valley of River Pelus between the Taurus and Telaga Sunyi tourism objects.

Visitors will be treated to a wide array of exciting adventures: water, canyon, forest trek and bike trek adventures. A lodging designed with bamboo just like the ones the Baduy Tribe lives in can accommodate up to 100 people and is available at Rp 250,000 a night.

In BAF, you can enjoy the serene view of pine trees and a variety of forest plants stretching along the 50-hectare area. This establishment was built by the collaboration of the University of Indonesia’s Nature Club and the Indonesian State Forest Company (Perhutani) four years ago. l

baturraden adventure

forest, Central

java • Haryono Tour

& Travel, 89 MH Thamrin Street, Semarang, Phone: +62-24-8444000

• Panorama Tour & Travel, HOS Cokroaminoto Street, Terminal Sisemut Blok 41, Ungaran Barat, Phone: +62-24-6926329

• Dewanga Tour, 57 Sriwijaya Street, Semarang. Phone: +62-24-8451805

latimojonG, soutH

sulawesi • Alif Interbuana

Tours & Travel, 1 Martadinata Street, Makassar, Phone: +62-411-328122, 327922

• Anta Express Tour & Travel, 34-A Dr. W. Sudirohusodo Street, Makassar, Phone: +62-411-321440

• Lintas Alam Tour & Travel, 18 Sunu Blok G Street, Makassar, Phone: +62-411-446765

33

m o u n t a i n

Three prisTine lakes in easT luwu, in a hidden area noT easily accessible by regular TransporTaTion, are connecTed To each oTher by Two rivers. one lake counTs as one of The largesT in indonesia, while anoTher, The deepesT in souTheasT asia. The breaThTaking surrounding panoramas, and The clean air and waTer have inspired many To describe iT as ‘heaven’ in The hinTerland of easT luwu.

Heaven intHe Hinterland

The Lakes of Matano, Mahalona and Towuti in South Sulawesi

Photo: Nita Dian Afianti , Text: Kurniawan34

Ide Beach, Lake Matano.

35

l a k el a k e

MatanoMahalona

Towuti

Soroako l On a small wooden pier jutting out about 20 meters into the lake, a teenager dives into the clear, calm water. nearby, a man swims between the two branches of the pier. In the translucent water, a small school of opudi fish can be seen—a small fish species endemic to this lake—swimming lazily among the

pier’s supports. The Torukuno Lela mountains are visible in the

distance. A bird resembling a stork, perhaps an oriental darter (Anhinga melanogaster), commonly found in this area, flies overhead. It targets the lake, diving suddenly down on a shoal of fish, then darting back up to perch on a tree branch. The shrieks of monkeys come from those trees. There are still many moor macaques (Macaca maura) here. The sun slowly rises between the mountain peaks. That morning, Lake Matano was as picture perfect as a postcard.

I took a dive off the board. The water was cold, but did not make me shiver. The water in Lake Matano

When tO GO there

There are no special calendar featuring

cultural events in this place, so visits can

be made at anytime. However, it is better

to go there during the dry season, to be

able to sail around the lakes. During

the rainy season, the water level rises a few

meters higher, causing big waves.

36

Towuti

is so clear I could see the bottom. From where I dived the lake’s floor was festooned with brown water plants, and thousands of fish swam by. Residents of Soroako call this area the Ide Beach, even though this is not a sea. A kilometer northwest there is the Salonsa Beach, which has no pier and wider shallows. These two tourist spots are clean and well-maintained.

Lake Matano is located in the nuha District of the East Luwu Regency. Soroako village, which is on the western side of the lake, has grown into a well-planned modern town, especially because most of it is managed by Vale Indonesia (formerly Inco), a nickel mining company which has been operating since 1968. Vacation lodges belonging to the company line up along the lake’s shore, and include a golf course.

With a depth of approximately 590 meters, Lake Matano is the deepest lake in

Southeast Asia, and the eighth-deepest in the world. This lake is connected by a river to Lake Mahalona, and to Lake Towuti to the south. Lake Towuti, which measures 561 square kilometers, is the second-largest lake in Indonesia. These three lakes formed as a result of tectonic activity millions of years ago.

Soroako can be reached by air and land from Makassar. I decided to fly there and return by land. A day earlier in the city of Makassar, I boarded a Fokker 50 plane owned by Indonesia Air, which is rented out by Vale. I sat in seat number 4F on this plane with a 44-passenger capacity.

An hour later, the plane landed at Soroako Airport, smack across from the Soroako Bus Station, parked with buses from Makassar and other places. As the village has no public transportation, I took a motorcycle taxi to the hotel facing

lakes in triple

Matano, Mahalona, dan Towuti are three tectonic lakes connected by a river. In 1979, the government made these three lakes and the surrounding forest as a protected forest area and a nature recreation park.

MatanoArea: 164 km2Depth: 590 metersDeepest lake in Southeast Asia, and eighth-deepest in the world.

MahalonaArea: 24.4 km2Depth: 73 meters

TowutiArea: 561 km2Depth: 203 metersSecond-largest lake in Indonesia after Lake Toba

37

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Lake Matano. I spent the rest of the day visiting the picturesque Ide and Salonsa beaches.

Salonsa Beach is located near Ide Beach. It does not have a pier, and is surrounded by grass. The water at the shore doesn’t go very deep, and many children could be seen at play there, swimming in their birthday suits as their parents looked on.

The next day, a Tempo photographer and I visited the Soroako pier. This pier near Soroako Market is the main gateway to two villages across the lake: Matano and nuha, the capital of the nuha District.

We rented a ketinting (motorized boat) to visit some places around the lake. After negotiating, Hendra, the boat owner, agreed to take us around for Rp400,000 for the day. “There’s a foreign researcher who rented a larger boat just before you, for Rp1 million. They are still out there,” said Hendra, pointing to a boat in the middle of the lake.

Hendra is a native of Matano, working at a contractor company in Soroako. Deftly he pulled the ketinting to the pier, so that we could get on board and set sail. Our green boat with outriggers plied

close to the edge of the lake, affording me a good view of the Ide and Salonsa beaches, as well as the trademark houses of Vale—all-wood constructions with no fences.

After about 20 minutes, the boat’s engine was turned off and Hendra slowly pushed the boat up to a rocky cliff covered with brush. At the bottom of the ridge was a partially submerged hole. “That’s an underwater cave. You can dive down and emerge in the cave, or jump in the hole from above,” he said.

I took the second choice and jumped onto land. Making my way through tree roots and branches, I climbed the rocky cliff until I reached a flattish area at the top. After standing up properly, I saw the hole, about two armspans wide and surrounded by rocks and soil. There were three places that appeared to be where other people had trodden. I looked downwards and there it was: a stretch of calm, sparkling green water below. I estimated the well to be about 10-15 meters deep. After mustering up enough courage, I finally jumped into the cave’s pool.

My feet had not yet touched bottom when water

hOW tO Get there

A Fokker 50-plane, owned by

Indonesia Air and rented

out to mining company Vale

Indonesia, flies from Makassar

to Soroako. Tickets for the general public

are Rp1.2 million per person. The

flight departs at 12:30pm and arrives an hour

later.

Overland by bus starts

at the Daya bus station

in Makassar, to Soroako.

Tickets range from

Rp160,000-220,000. The overnight trip takes about 13

hours.

38

pressure pushed me up again to the surface. I swam to pool’s edge and grabbed on to some protruding rocks on the cliff’s face. The cave was about half the size of a badminton court. Most of the rocky outcrops faced downwards. The water was crystal clear, and the outline of large rocks on the bed could clearly be seen from the surface. The green pool of water was illuminated by sunlight from the hole above and from the alcove facing the lake. This really was a secret cave. Its beauty could only be enjoyed by those who dared enter it.

There are several caves around the lake, but Hendra did not allow us to try and see them all. “Some of them are dangerous because snakes and crocodiles nest there,” he said. Crocodiles and snakes can indeed be found around Lake Matano. Yet, according to locals, the crocodiles here are more ‘friendly’ compared to those at Lake Towuti, where they sometimes attack people.

A few minutes after leaving the underwater cave, we arrived at another one. This time we had to climb a steeper cliff. This cave, like caves in general, was dry and rocky. It was not very large, but there were

some bones strewn about. Locals call it the Skull Cave because in the old days, human bones could be found believed to have come from pre-Islamic times.

There were still many other interesting places, such as Kucing Island, a small cluster of rocks with two large mango trees, and the Dingin Stream, a cold stream of water until it joins up with the warm waters of the lake. In Mahalona, less than an hour from the Soroako pier, we can bathe our faces at the Bora-Bora Springs, located just a few steps from lake’s edge with air bubbles emanating from it.

This village was the forerunner of the Luwu Kingdom, and is the producer of the best iron in Indonesia. According to research by the Australian national University, the village has been inhabited since 2,000 years ago, and its soil is riddled with iron ore. It is believed that this is the source of ‘the prestige of Luwu’, the unique composite found in keris daggers from Luwu, famed since Majapahit kingdom times.

Researchers estimate that a major iron processing center emerged in Matano in the 15th and 16th centuries. According to Dewi, a village elder and former fighter of the Darul Islam led by Kahar Muzakkar, there used to live here 40 blacksmiths adept in the arts of weapons and cannon-making. “The cannons were very large, up to two meters long,” said the 98-year-old man. However, when the Dutch came, said Dewi, the blacksmith sites and weapons were seized. The people were banned from processing iron ore. “Since then, that generation didn’t dare make any more weapons, and so the skill died out,” said Dewi. Residents of the village resorted to simply cultivate cocoa and pepper— which they do to this day.

The water in Lake Matano flows to Lake Mahalona through the Petea River, and continues on to Lake Towuti after passing Lake Tominanga. Lake Towuti is the second-largest lake in Indonesia, after Lake Toba in north Sumatra.

Unfortunately, the lake has not been turned into a tourist destination, currently being only surrounded by forest and the shacks of local residents. In fact, the water’s edge is so packed with local huts, there’s simply no room for visitors to enjoy the lake.

I decided to visit Lake Mahalona. However, it turned out not many people knew how to get there. After asking around, we finally got directions, being told to first head for Towuti, about an hour from Soroako.

“You want to go to Kampung Baru, right? Just go straight ahead in that direction,” said a local near a boat dock in Tolu village on the shore of Lake Towuti, pointing due north.

Marsec, the driver of the car we took, phoned a friend who had been to Lake Mahalona. “My friend said if it rains, the road is unusable,” said Marsec, turning the car towards Timampu village, then going

transpOr-tatiOn

There is no public

transportation here. Available

are only motorcycle taxis, which

charge according

to distance, starting at Rp15,000. If you want to see Lake

Matano and travel around Soroako, you can rent a car

for Rp300,000 a day.

The trip from Lake Towuti in

Wasuponda, is about 30

minutes from Soroako; To Lake

Mahalona it's about an

hour from Wasuponda. These can be

reached by renting a car, starting from Rp400,000.

To travel around on the lake, you can

rent a katinting (motorized

boat) at rates starting from Rp200,000.

39

l a k e

Tourism OfficeSouth Sulawesi Province Culture and Tourism BoardGedung Mulo, 23 Jend. Sudirman Street, Makassar, South Sulawesiwww.celebestourism.com, www.phinisi.com, www.sulsel.go.ide-mail: disbudpar_sulsel@telkom.net, disbudpar.provsulsel@gmail.com

Travel Agent

Alif Interbuana Tours & TravelMarthadinata No. 1 Street,Makassar,

South SulawesiPhone: +62-411-328122, 327922Fax: +62-411-323609e-mail: aliftour@indosat.net.id

Anta Express Tours & Travel34A Dr. W. Sudirohusodo Street, Makassar, South SulawesiPhone: + 62-411-321440Fax: +62-411-313910e-mail: antaupg@antatour.co.id

Panorama Travel IndonesiaF3/9 Citra Sudiang Indah Street

Makassar, South SulawesiPhone: +62-411-550340Fax.: +62-411-552387Contact: Mr. Yakobus Amba Lembange-mail: info@panorama-indonesia.com

Ramayana Tours & Travel27 Boulevard Blok F Street Panakukang Mas, South SulawesiPhone: +62-411-441552Fax.: +62-411-447358e-mail: nicorstt@indosat.net.id

infOrmatiOn center

40

Matano Lake, East Luwu, South Sulawesi

TEM

PO

/ TO

MM

y Sa

Tria

41

l a k e

42

BankinG and internet services

There are branches of the BRI and Mandiri banks there. However, it is a good idea to carry enough money, as all transactions are done in cash,

including payment for accomodation.

The Telkomsel internet and GSM network is available.

hOtels and

cuisine

There are some small, comfortable

hotels in Soroako. One

of them is located right

on the edge of Lake Matano. Room prices vary, starting

at Rp350,000.

Small eateries and outdoor

stalls at Soroako

market offer a variety of food.

The famous dish here is

kapurung, sago porridge in fish broth. Most of these eateries

open in the morning.

off the paved road onto the wider dirt track.This road was literally clay and stone, and would

clearly turn into a mud pit if a heavy rain should fall. The road took a steep ascent with forest on either side.

We were practically the only ones on the road for a good whole hour, before we finally reached a concrete bridge with a village on the other side.

Tolu is the first of a series of five villages, with Mahalona being the main village, located farthest away. Most residents grow pepper. Erwin, a boat owner, took us down the Tominanga River to Lake Mahalona.

About 10 minutes later we reached the river’s mouth. Lake Mahalona, the smallest of the three lakes in East Luwu, lay glittering in front of us. We docked on a wide expanse of stony flat ground. “The water level has been low for five months. At high tide, the water can reach waist-height,” said Erwin. Signs of the height of the water level could be seen on the surrounding tree trunks.

The lake is a clear blue, with overgrowth of brush and mangroves at the water’s edge. The surface is very calm, making it great for drifting on skiffs. Erwin said the villagers love to picnic out here during the low tide season.

not far from where we were, we saw a rundown shack.“The villagers once tried to grow rice, but failed. nearing harvest times, the water rises and destroys the crops,” he said.

The lakes in East Luwu are still in their natural state, and not many people know about them. The location is remote and it’s difficult to find transportation.

Still, these hidden gems could be attractive to the adventurous tourist who loves going off the beaten track and wanting to see some of the lesser-known secluded spots of the Indonesian archipelago. l

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Sentani, Papua

PeaCe Be WitH US

having a vacation in the land of Papua will not becomplete without a visit to Lake Sentani. Visitors can already see the mesmerizing beauty from the air upon landing on Jayapura’s Sentani Airport. Crystal blue waters surrounded by hills – you won’t be able to take your eyes off the view.

Sentani means “Here We Live in Peace”. The name was given by B.L. Bin when he was on a missionary task in 1898. Then during the Second World War, the lake area was home to General MacArthur’s military base. A memorial monument built on Mount Iftar immortalizes the United States’ presence in the island.

Lake Sentani is situated 75 meters above sea level, nestling at the foot of the Cycloops Mountains nature Preserve.Stretching 30 kilometers between the city of Jayapura and Sentani, Jayapura Regency’s capital, Lake Sentani is the biggest lake in Papua.

It is not difficult to reach Lake Sentani. From Sentani Airport, it can be accessed by land for less than half an hour. Public transportation, including motorcycle taxis (ojek),are available if private vehicle is absent.

When visiting in June, you are advised to witness the Lake Sentani Festival. Lasting for five days, the Festival is a local grand celebration featuring Papua’s arts, dances, traditional ceremonies and signature dishes. l

Larson, Papua

COlOrS OF tHe GrOUSe

located on the hiking trail towards Carstensz’s peak, Lake Larson is surrounded by a vast prairie. Rows of the Jayawijaya Mountains are visible from here.

On the lake grouses swim around before takingflight. “The colors are black, brown and white,” said 26-year-old Xaverius Frans,

an activist from Parahyangan University’s Mahitala nature Lovers’ Club, who visited the lake in 2012. The best time to enjoy the beauty of Larson is from sunrise until 10 a.m., because thereafter fog will descend, engulfing the lake.

The lake can be reached from nabire or Timika, continued via a connecting flight to Sugapa. From here, it takes a four-day walk to get to Larson. Two other entries, Ilaga and Beoga, are available. not far from the lake, there is a place where hikers gatherbefore continuing their journey to Cartensz’s peak. l

Depati Empat, Jambi

WHere tHe tiGerS rOar

nestling at 1,175 meters above sea level, the lake is located in the Kerinci Seblat national Park in Merangin Regency, Jambi. Though Depati Empat is located within utilization zone – meaning it can be used for tourism development purposes – access to the lake is categorized under “forest zone”.

Since it is not easy to reach, local villagers are the only other people who often go there to fish besides student activists according to Dian Risdianto, head of Kerinci Seblat national Park Region II’s management.

The 217-hectare lake is surrounded by two hills: Pandan Tua and Pandan Bungsu. Standing by the lake, we can enjoy the magnificence of three mountains at a time: Mount Sumbing, nilo and Masurai. Depati Empatis not the only lake in Jangkat.

sentani, papua

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• AdvindoTours&Travel, 22 Ahmad Yani Street, Jayapura, Phone: +62-967-31403

• PapuaAdventureTour&Travel, Mr. Gantang (+6281344628586 & +62817364243), email: info@papuaadventure.com, info@papuaholidays.com

• HoneyTour,Endang Gunawan ( +628176941777), Zikri (+6281802156188), Herdi (+6281995194009)

larsOn, papua

• AdvindoTours&Travel, 22 Ahmad Yani Street, Jayapura, Phone: +62-967-31403

• BowaMakmurTravel, 20 Percetakan Street, Jayapura, Phone: +62-967-31626

• DutaBaliemTravel, 17 Nindya Street, Jayapura, Phone: +62-967-33583

• PapuaAdventureTour&Travel, Mr. Gantang (+6281344628586 & +62817364243), email: info@papuaadventure.com, info@papuaholidays.com

• HoneyTour,Endang Gunawan ( +628176941777), Zikri (+6281802156188), Herdi (+6281995194009)

44

Three other lakes include Lake Pauh, Tinggi and Kecik. Sumatran tigers are still roaming the area. Dian’s team has found the animals’ footprints in September 2013.

To reach Depati Empat, take a land transportation from Jambi to Bangko, the capital of Merangin. Then continue the journey to the Pulau Tengah Village in Jangkat. This route takes approximately eight hours. Walk five more hours through the forest to reach Depati Empat. l

Weekuri, East Nusa Tenggara

Hidden PriMadOnna

theroaring machine of the jeep that took me from Tambolaka, capital of the Southwest Sumba Regency, died right on a steep cliff. Sudden silence crept in; I barely heard anything.

As I stepped out of the car, however, I faintly heard waves crashing the back of a towering rock. For a moment, I thought the waves were

that of the Indian Ocean in the south of Sumba. I walked to the edge of the cliff, where I was taken by surprise: A crystal clear lake stretched before my eyes. “Welcome to the hidden Lake Weekuri,” said Paulus, the local guide who took me around Sumba.

Located in the north Kodi region, 60 kilometers apart from Waitabula, Lake Weekuri is actually a lagoon, sea water “trapped” by land. The lake is Southwest Sumba’s tourism prima donna.

To reach the lake from Tambolaka Airport, there are two transportation options: motorcycle taxis (ojek) and cars. The car rental costs Rp 300,000, while ojek costs Rp 100,000. The terrain on the way to this place is uneven and filled with gravels and rocks. l

Weekuri, east nusa tenGGara• PTDuta

Nusantara,Sudirman Street, Kupang, Phone: +62-380-821240

• PTFloressaTravel, 15 Mawar Street, Kupang, Phone: +62-380-832012

• PTTeddysTravel, 1 Ikan Tongkol Street, Kupang, Phone: +62-380-822422

depati empat, JamBi

• JamboraKencana,Gatot Subroto Street, Jambi, Phone: +62-741-23926

• MayangTour&Travel,7 Hayam Wuruk Street, Jambi, Phone: +62-741-25450

• AquavitaJaya, 88 Veteran Street, Jambi, Phone: +62-741-23637

45

l a k e

GunungTujuh, Jambi

HOMe OF GOdS and draGOnS

lake GunungTujuh – Lake Seven Mountains –is almost two kilometers above sea level. It is located at the heart of KerinciSeblat national Park in KayuAro region, Kerinci Regency, Jambi.

The hike to Lake GunungTujuh may start from the hiking post in Pelompek Village, Karo Ayu,

where two routes are available: down the river or up the mountain. The former takes around three hours; the latter four.Tempo chose the latter trail.

The path could get slippery on rainy days. Tall trees frame both sides of the path, where birds chirp and gibbons cry. The 3,805-meter Mount Kerinci, the highest volcano in Sumatra, can be seen from the lake.

Also called Lake of theGods, legend has it that the lake is guarded by two magical powers: LbeiSakti and Saleh Sri Menanti. Others say that this calm, blue water is home to a pair of dragons.

True to its name, the lake is surrounded by sev-en mountains: Mount Hulu Jujuhan (2,732 meters), Mount Hulu TeboKanan (2,525 meters), Mount Ter-panggang (2,469 meters), Mount ManduraiBesi (2,431 meters), Mount Hulu Sangir (2,330 meters), Mount Tujuhan (2,325 meters) and Mount Silasi (2,310 meters).

Since Lake GunungTujuh is located on a high pla-teau, temperature is low. During the day, it reaches 16-17 degrees Celsius, while at night it drops to 10-11 degrees Celsius. l

Habema, Papua

reFUGe OF tHe nearlY eXtinCt

lake Habema is at the center of Papua’s Lorentz national Park, nestling at the foot of Mount Trikora, 3,225 meters above sea level. The DanicTribe refers to it as Yuginopa.Habema is commonly visited by hikers on their way to conquerthe peaks of Jayawijaya and Carztensz.

The name Habema was taken from the name of a Dutch officer, who guarded the 1909 expedition aimed to reach Wilhelmina Peak (now called Triko-ra Peak). The expedition that was led by H. A. Lor-entz ended tragically. Four people died and Lor-entz had his ribs broken due to a fall.

The area around the 224-hectare lake is home to the birds of paradise, tree kangaroos, wild ducks and snow quails; all are near extinc-tion. The water of Lake Habema is so clear that the smooth yellowish sands at the bottom of the lake is visible. Around Habema, Papua’s signature plants like palm fronds, sage trees and black or-chids grow.

The lake,which is 48 kilometers from Wamena City, can be reached bycars in four hours,before continuing on foot.

One of Indonesia’s highest lakes, Habema’s tem-perature can drop as low as 3 degrees Celsius. l

GununG tuJuh, JamBi

• AquavitaJaya,88 Veteran Street, Jambi, Phone: +62-741-23637

• SiwoonTravelLtd., 112 Damar Street, Jambi, Phone: +62-741-21184

• JamboraKencana, Gatot Subroto Street, Jambi, Phone: +62-741-23926

heBema, papua

• PapuaAdventureTour&Travel, Mr. Gantang (+6281344628586 & +62817364243), email: info@papuaadventure.com, info@papuaholidays.com

• HoneyTour,Endang Gunawan ( +628176941777), Zikri (+6281802156188), Herdi (+6281995194009)

• LimbunanTours&Travel,68 Argapura Raya Street, Jayapura, Phone: +62-967-35430, 35498

• DutaBaliemTravel, 17 Nindya Street, Jayapura, Phone: +62-967-33583

• AdvindoTours&Travel,22 Ahmad Yani Street, Jayapura, Phone: +62-967-31403

46

The Lakes of Matano

47

l a k e

Conserving LoCaL Customs

Ratenggaro Village, Southwest Sumba

Photo: Gunawan Wicaksono, Text: Sandy Indra Pratama

48

Although they don’t AlwAys weAr their trAditionAl gArb, the residents of rAtenggAro villAge live their customs in every sense of the word. rituAls Are not done out of A sense of duty, but As A spirituAl belief to honor Ancestors. everything hAnded from these Ancestors is sAcred, including every piece of lAnd Around them.

49

t r a d i t i o n a l v i l l a g et r a d i t i o n a l v i l l a g e

it is late afternoon in a village protected from the ravages of the Indian Ocean by a coral trench. Waves roll in on the narrow, white sand beach, and the wind is cold and piercing. the sound of gongs and drums could be heard in the air.

Located at the mouth of the Waiha river, the village is Ratenggaro, 56 kilometers from tambolaka, the capital of Southwest Sumba district. However, it comes under the administration of the Kodi Bangedo subdistrict. Rate means graveyard and Nggaro or Gaura, according to legend, is the name of the first person who ever lived there. Early last month, photographer Gunawan Wicaksono and I went to visit Ratenggaro, known for its strict adherence to local customs and traditions.

When we got to the village, shouts—which we were told later were hoots of joy—could be heard, bewildered us. Suddenly, a machete-wielding man appeared, unnerving us. But the man, named thomas, was all smiles, despite his fierce tone of voice. As if properly cued, the sound of the drums and gongs, came to a halt. thomas presents us with the machete, as if symbolizing a welcome. “Please accept this,” he said, before turning around to head back in the direction of a house.

Gunawan and I looked each other, confused and not a little fearful of what all the gestures meant. One of us had to accept the offering. Gunawan cleverly pretended to adjust his camera, indicating the privilege was to be mine. I nervously and tentatively took it in my hands.

Our nervousness was based on stories we had heard about Ratenggaro, a village known for its war victories. A home for heroes. According to its historical background, Ratenggaro stood undefeated in duels and wars between tribes, during a time when Sumba still waged wars.

I stood, clutching the machete tightly. then thomas returned, with his hands behind his back. In a

swift and surprise move, he showed us what he held.“And now, cut the chicken quickly, before night

comes; by then it will be hard to see because there’s no electricity here,” thomas said, laughing. As the entire village breaks in laughter, the tension enveloping Gunawan and I, recedes. the machete, it turns out, is to slaughter the chicken that will be our dinner. Gunawan, too, despite his efforts, cannot escape having to slaughter a chicken as well.

Slaughtering the chicken cannot be delegated, because our intention and our future movements will be ‘read’ from parts of the chicken that we slaughtered. the reading is usually done by the priests of Marapu, the faith of some Sumba people which glorifies ancestors. In addition to chicken, pork liver can also be used. Fortunately, the chicken that we slaughtered does not show excessive bleeding or twisted intestines. From this, they concluded that we came to the village with good intentions.

the chicken was grilled without any seasoning, feathers and all, and then served. In the dim candle light and with the faint sound of waves hitting the reef in the background, we all get down to eat the meal together. “the slaughtering and burning of chicken as well as the dinner are a small welcoming ceremony from us, to the two brothers who came all the way from Java. Hopefully, they will bring good to all of us,” said Damianus Ndara tanggu Lora, the Bapak Desa or village chief.

As night fell, the villagers excused themselves to go home. We, too, began to feel tired and sleepy. As the lights were being turned off, Gunawan and I stretched out and laid down on a mat with a sheet to cover ourselves with. Before nodding off, my last thought was about the incredibly cold wind that no longer seemed to affect me.

I felt enveloped in the warmth of a family.

the roosters woke us up at dawn. this time, we felt

Activities in Ratenggaro.

A tombstone

03

Ratenggaro Village

Sumba Island

[1]

0201

50

the chill of the cold wind. Gunawan and I slowly left the tower house—the term used for the traditional houses in Sumba which stands on stilts with a roof forming high towers—where we stayed the night. Not long after, the rising sun shed its warm rays on the roof, made of dried reeds, blanketing it with an eerie golden light. It was majestic.

the tower on the Ratenggaro traditional homes, according to Ndara—Bapak Desa’s nickname—is the highest among other traditional homes throughout Sumba Island, reaching as high as 20 meters. “the towers, in addition to being status symbols, also imply that there is a higher being, higher than humans, higher than even the houses,” said Ndara, a father of three children.

Ratenggaro was nearly razed to the ground by fire three times. the first incident took place before 1964, during a competition between the villages. Ndara did not want to speculate as to who started it. Based on stories passed down through generations, arrow flames were shot from outside the village to burn down all houses in Ratenggaro. the second fire occurred in 1964. One night, when the residents were busy attending a celebration, the entire village went up in flames. “Everyone fled, because of the 28 homes in the village, none was left standing,” he said. the third fire happened 40 years later, in 2004. When only half of the village had been rebuilt, once again the houses were consumed by fire. Only 13 of the traditional homes remain, two of them under construction.

Building a traditional house, Ndara explained, is not easy. there are traditional lines that must not be crossed. Locals believe the work must not only involve people on earth, it also must have blessing of the spiritual world, specifically the ancestors. “the first ritual will tell us whether or not our ancestors approve of our intention to build a house,” said 43-year old Ndara. If the signs appear to be positive, “Subsequent ceremonies will be performed

throughout the duration of the construction.”In 2011, the main house at Ratenggaro, which

they call the Uma (house in Sumba dialect) Katoda Kataku—a house symbolizing the father or the elder—was built. Everyone in the village, more than 600 of them, pitched in. they donated money and food, as well as helped install the four main pillars and the towers, until they stood erect.

“Soon we will build an Uma Kapepe, a house for meetings and deliberations,” he said.

In Ratenggaro, some of the houses have earned a special respect, without belittling the importance of the other houses. there are Uma Kalama—which symbolizes the mother, and Uma Katoda Kuri and Uma Katoda Amahu—which symbolizes the house of the siblings and the parents. their positions represent the four directions of the compass and face each other. Uma Katoda Kataku is at the southern part of the village facing north. In front of it is Uma Kalama, facing south. Uma Katoda Kuri is located in the east facing west, face to face with Uma Katoda Amahu.

there is a reason for the different positions. Uma Katoda Kataku, for example, as the home for the founder of the village, must be at the southernmost facing north, to remind them that their ancestors came from the north. Houses that receive special respect, must have the main poles adorned with bracelets or rings.

“the positions and the number of the houses have not changed since the days of our ancestors, hundreds of years ago. Each position has its own seals,” he said. their ancestors came from the north, from the mainland. therefore, despite being on the coast, none of the residents of Ratenggaro are fishermen. It is not their tradition to go to sea. they are mountain people who are trapped on the shore.

the material for their houses also follow customs. the main pole must be made of kadimbil (iron) wood.

[2] [3]

UsefUl tips

» Wear casual but decent

clothing, as the weather gets

hot.» Wear strong-

soled shoes; otherwise, sharp rocks

will rip them apart.

» Bring small denomination money in case

the service providers don’t

have change.» Comply

with all the traditional

customs of the village; nearly all of them are unwritten. A

single misstep can have

repercussions such as a

traditional penalty.

» To contribute to the local economy,

buy souvenirs typical of the

traditional village.

51

t r a d i t i o n a l v i l l a g e

X2X1

X3

A

B

C

D

1

23

4

5

Kadu UmaWood carvings on top of the house, a symbol that parents are above everything else.

ReedRoof covers are changed every five to 10 years.

Witi KarimibyoEight bamboo poles supporting the tower, likened to legs of water buffalo.

Pongga KatakuThe main pillar and the first erected during a construction. In the past, villagers placed the pole over the skulls of their war opponents.

Pongga PanginjetongThe second pillar, symbol of the mother.

Pongga Kertanda HandokaA pole that symbolises the family’s protector.

Pongga Kertanda LimbioroA pole that symbolises the family’s protector.

Gelang/LelePlaced as a high social status on top of the four main pillars. It prevents rodents from getting in the barn.

Peda/Lumbung Barn.

Kitchen and fireplace

Entrance for men The front door is only for men

Entrance for women Women enter the house from the back.

Bale-bale Kebijaksanaan A space where parents counsel their children.

Sleeping room for men

Uma katoda katakU

A

B

C

D

1

2

3

4

5

Batu KatodaA stone monument believed to have the power to bring victory in war.

Village seal Traditional village seal characteristic of the area

Rain stone A stone monument believed to be able to bring rain.

Entrance to the Ratenggaro traditional village.Natar, the square where all traditional ceremonies and village meetings are held.Makam Gaura, Ratenggaro’s first settler. Makam Maya, Gaura’s wife.

Houses’ positions:Uma Katoda Kataku Village’s primary house, representing father. Uma KalamaSecondary house, representing mother. Uma Katoda Kuri A house representing family supporters (father and mother).Uma Katoda Amahu A house representing family supporters (father and mother). Uma Kapepe A special house of deliberations.

52

To reach Southwest Sumba, passengers from Jakarta will land on Tambolaka airport, after transiting and changing

to a propeller aircraft in Denpasar. The return flight follows a similar route.

Airline ticket prices vary, with the most expensive two-way ticket costing Rp3

million.

The Kampung Adat Ratenggaro is 56 kilometers from Tambolaka—capital

of Southwest Sumba District.

To get there, rent a car for the entire day (Rp500,000), ride a motorcycle taxi (Rp200,000-250,000), or take a bemo or an oto (Rp10,000). Oto is the Sumba term for minibuses used for public transport. For more local flavor, take the market transport,

which sometimes carries livestock, vegetables and other basic items. And then stop in Bondo Kodi subdistrict,

ride a motorcycle to Ratenggaro (Rp20,000).

How to get tHere and How mUcH

The Pasola ceremony is a big event for the people of Sumba. In

February, Pasola is held at Lamboya and Kodi. In March, it is held in

wHen is tHe Best time to go?

Tourism OfficeEast Nusa Tenggara Province Culture and Tourism Board72 El Tari Main Road 2nd, Kupang-East Nusa Tenggara e-mail: disbudparprovntt@yahoo.comwebsite: www.govisitntt.com

information center

Firelli Tour &Travel, Mataram, Mr. Didik (+62-431-811119 & +62812125254243), e-mail: firelli-tour@centrin.net.id

Honey Tour, Endang Gunawan (+628176941777), Zikri (+6281802156188), Herdi (+6281995194009)

53

t r a d i t i o n a l v i l l a g e

monument is the traditional village seal, characteristic of the area. Another is Katoda—a stone that is believed to have the power to bring victory in war. the two stones are located in front of Uma Katoda. the third monument is the tomb of Ambu Lere Loha, who is believed to have the power of thunder and lightning. the last monument is the tomb dedicated to bring rain.

Architect M. Resha Khambali, who lived for three months in Ratenggaro in 2011, testified that the power of the stone and the tomb was indeed real. “Once construction was almost complete, they held a ceremony asking for rain, and sure enough, it rained although earlier the weather was hot and dry,” he said.

the tombstones in Ratenggaro were not built by using cement, but by arranging the stones in a certain way. this certainly could not have been easy. “the menhirs weighing tens of tons were dragged by many people,” he said.

As day’s end approaches, we prepare to return home. Motorcycles stood ready. We shake hands with the villagers, one by one. they accompany us to the village entrance. A distance away, I look back from my motorcycle. the tops of the towers in Ratenggaro stood tall and proud, like its people who refuse to forget their roots, honoring their elders. l

the roof must be of dried reeds, bamboo, kahi kara— local plant—and rattan, which they use for binding. In other words, their homes do not contain metal elements, such as nails or tin roofs.

Ndara’s information was confirmed by Pastor Robert Ramone C.Ss.R, one of the few students of Sumbanese culture. In fact, according to the pastor, in Marapu, the main poles of Uma Katoda Kataku should actually stand on human skulls. Usually, the skulls belong to enemies they defeated in battle. “But this custom is no longer practiced today,” said 51-year-old Pastor Ramone.

aPPROACHING noon, the sun begins to burn on the skin. Another village elder, Rangga Kamereh, took us around to look at another sacred place in the village covering an area of about one hectare. “the stones scattered here are no ordinary stones. this is a cemetery. We take care of them because all

our ancestors have a role in our traditions and history,” said 50-year-old Rangga, who works as a civil servant.

He explained there were six sacred spots in the village. In addition to the tombs of the two founders of Ratenggaro—Gaura and his wife, Mamba—there are four other monuments glorifying them. the first

A tombstone.

A water buffalo in a river delta.

Reading people’s intention from

parts of chicken.

01

03

02

[1] [3]

[2]

54

Siberut Island, West Sumatera

HarmonY in tHe uma

mentawai Islands is the only regency in West Sumatra whose tradition and culture are not of Minang. to get there, you can use a wooden boat from Bungus and Muara Baru ports, Padang to Maileppet Port, Siberut Island, which will take about 10 to 12

hours; or use a speedboat, which will take around five hours. to delve into the lives of the tribe on

Siberut Island and to surf 6-meter-high waves are some of the tourists’ reasons of visit.

the Mentawai tribe lives in traditional houses called uma. the natives of the tribe can be found in Madobag Village and Butui Village in South Siberut District. the villages can be reached by pompong (wooden boat), four hours up the river stream from Muara Siberut.

Madobag Village has several umas; but, if you wish to know more about the tribe’s way of life, you will have to walk for a few hours to Butui Village, where the path is muddy. If the river water is high enough, however, we can use boat instead. At Butui Village, sikirei – the tribe’s shaman and leader of traditional ceremonies – and his family live in harmony with nature. Each uma is occupied by five families. Inside the uma they gather, conduct ceremonies and practice medicine. l

siBerUt island,

west sUmatera

• Eka Sukma Wisata, 21 Juanda Street, Padang, Phone: +62-751-31670

• Nitour Inc., 10 Hiligoo Street, Padang, Phone: +62-751-38008

• Tunas Indonesia, 86-B Pondok Street, Padang, Phone: +62-751-32806

• Ermi Tour & Travel, Padang, Ms. Nur (+6281347841052), Mr. Edy (+6285263308618), Ms. Suci (+6281298933383), email: ermitours@yahoo.com, info@ermitours.com

• Honey Tour, Endang Gunawan ( +628176941777), Zikri (+6281802156188), Herdi (+6281995194009)

55

t r a d i t i o n a l v i l l a g e

56

Handcraft made by Ratenggaro Customary Traditional Village’s people at Umbu Ngedo Village, District Kodi Bangendo, Southwest Sumba Regency, East Nusa Tenggara

TEM

PO

/Gu

naw

an

wic

ak

sOn

O

57

t r a d i t i o n a l v i l l a g et r a d i t i o n a l v i l l a g e

Bayan Traditional Village, West Nusa Tenggara

guarDians oF tHe Forests

the Bayan tribe of North Lombok, West Nusa tenggara – about 75 kilometers from Mataram – possesses wisdom that dates back centuries, especially when it comes to preserving their culture and surrounding nature. this is proven by the fact that their houses, mosques, traditional ceremonies –

their way of life – have not really changed even today. take their traditional house for example. the roof

is made of sago palm leaves, the wall bamboo and the floor soil. It has only one door – which only faces either west or east – and no window or partition. Each house has beruga sekenem, some kind of gazebo with six posts. then there is the Bayan Beleq, an old mosque. Built in the 14th century, the architecture is still preserved. the mosque was built from bamboos and suren wood without any use of nails. Like the house, it has no flooring and only uses torch as the source of light.

It is in the Bayan people’s custom to preserve the nature. Six indigenous forests spread across three districts, and each of these forests is guarded by a forest keeper. A set of traditional rules called awiq-awiq protect the forests. One of the rules states

that whoever damages the forests, in any such way as cutting down a tree, will be fined a buffalo, 100 kilograms of rice and 244 chips of old money. l

Bena Traditional Village, East Nusa Tenggara

Centuries-oLD stone Houses

in Bena, East Nusa tenggara, 1,200-year stone houses with thatched roof still stands tall. “the roof is the only part that needs changing every 30 years,” said 82-year-old Moses Seba, a Bena resident. Various village ornaments made of stone still survive. these include house foundations, ancestor’s tombs, ceremonial

Bayan traditional

village, west nUsa tenggara

• Bidy Tour & Travel, 17 Ragigenep Street, Mataram, Phone: +62-364-22127

• Sasak Lombok Tour & Travel, 7 Subak Street, Mataram, Phone: +62-364-21796

• Arjuna Wisata Lombok Tour & Travel, 4-B Alamanda Street, Mataram, Phone: +62-364-21044

• Firelli Tour & Travel, Mataram, Mr. Didik (+62-431-811119, +62812125254243), email: firelli-tour@centrin.net.id

• Honey Tour, Endang Gunawan ( +628176941777), Zikri (+6281802156188), Herdi (+6281995194009)

Bena traditional

village, east nUsa tenggara• PT Pitoby Travel,

136 Sudirman Street, Phone: +62-380-832700

• PT Duta Nusantara, Sudirman Street, Kupang, Phone: +62-380-821240

• PT Floressa Travel, 15 Mawar Street, Kupang, Phone: +62-380-832012

• PT Teddys Travel, 1 Ikan Tongkol Street, Kupang, Phone: +62-380-822422

58

venues and traditional meeting platforms.Ngadhu, a big stone resembling a giant

umbrella, rises in the middle of the village. It is a place of worship, believed to be the spiritual medium between the Bena people and their ancestors at the top of Mount Inerie. Bhaga, a stage building made of stone, functions as a ceremonial place.

the Bena tribe is matriarchal. Once married, the man will follow his wife’s family moving out of the village. the Bena Festival, which is held every Christmas, reunites the family ties. “During the Festival, all Bena people will return to the village for the traditional ceremony,” said Sofia, one of the Bena people.

Bena is located in tiworiwu, Aimere District in Ngada Regency, East Nusa tenggara. From Bajawa City, Ngada, it can be reached in 30 minutes by car. l

Putussibau, West Kalimantan

Centuries-strong arCHiteCture

the ingenuity of the ancestors of the Dayak tribe is reflected by the architecture of their longhouses. For decades, dozens of wooden pillars – each is half a meter thick – firmly sustain the longhouses, which the locals refer to as rumah betang. All of the pillars and floorings are made of ironwood felled from the forests of Kalimantan. Rattan

stakes are only used to tie the house together.Consistent with their name, the houses are massively

long. the shortest one is 100 meters long and the longest one reaches 286 meters; their widths vary between five and eight meters. Each rumah betang has as many as 50 ruai (bedrooms) if not more. It also has a large room used for traditional ceremonies.

Built on the banks of the Kapuas River – Indonesia’s longest river – most are located near the Putussibau, the capital of Kapuas Hulu Regency, West Kalimantan. One of the local airlines provides regular flights from Pontianak to Putussibau. However, flights cancellation is quite common. therefore visitors are advised to go by car instead. this journey through the forest takes 13 hours.

Besides rumah betang, you may also want to visit the Betung Kerihun National Park. the trip along Kapuas River can take several days by boat. Nevertheless, the kind owners of rumah betang will happily welcome you and provide you with lodgings and meals. One important tip for tourists: haggle any offered prices. l

pUtUssiBaU, west

kalimantan • Family Tour

& Travel, 179 Merapi Street, Pontianak, Phone: +62-561-734583

• PT Nafa Travel, Nusa Indah II Street, Pontianak, Phone: +62-561-749898

• Antya Tour & Travel, 62 Teuku Umar Street, Pontianak, Phone: +62-561-738789

59

t r a d i t i o n a l v i l l a g e

Long Berini, North Kalimantan

Preserver oF tHe DaYaK CuLture

in Long Berini, Malinau Regency, North Kalimantan, Dayak arts and culture are preserved. though people do not wear their traditional garments everyday anymore, they still live in traditional stage houses. their way of life pretty much remains the same too: they eat whatever nature provides them.

Dan Udau, a village elder, is the man behind this preservation. Living on the banks of the Upstream Bahau River, Dan is an adept player of sampe’, a Dayak traditional three-stringed guitar. Every day, his house is often frequented by youth who want to learn about traditional dances and songs. In Long Berini, Dayak arts and culture are ingrained in the people’s veins. l

Bada Valley, Central Sulawesi

statues oF mYsteries

there are only two places in the world that house megalithic statues. One is the Marquesas Islands in Latin America and the other is Bada Valley in Poso, Central Sulawesi. Unlike the statues in Marquesas Islands, the statues in Bada Valley look more like humans, complete with their body parts. there are also barrel-shaped statues. It

is estimated that the statues are between 1,500 and 3,000 years old.

Bada Valley is located in the Lore Lindu National Park. there are two routes to reach it. You can go by light plane from Palu and land in Poso’s tentena Airport, then continue by car or motorcycles, which takes four hours; or, you can simply go on a three-hour trip by public

transportation from Mosamba terminal in Palu to Gimpu and continue by car for four hours. Once you reach the valley, you can choose to stay in a guest house or at a local’s house.

the region was first discovered by Dutch scientists in early 20th century. Legend has it that the statues were made by the Napu, Besoa and Bada tribes, whose civilizations were well advanced beyond our time. there are, however, various other myths surrounding the statues, tribe and even the valley.

Until now, nobody knows exactly how many statues the valley houses and how or what they are made from; they say that one can never find new statues if he searches for it on purpose. l

Jangga Village, North Sumatera

Home oF tHe uLos Weavers

people in Jangga Village in toba Samosir Regency, North Sumatera still live a Batak traditional life. they honor their culture and traditional common laws.

the village is located on the slope of Mount Simanuk-manuk, about 24 kilometers from Parapat, Lake toba. tourists usually visit

the Jangga Village after enjoying the beauty of Lake toba to indulge in its cool, fresh air. to get there, public transports are available. the trip to the village takes around four to six hours – beautiful scenery of the Batak land accompanies visitors on the road.

long Berini, nortH

kalimantan • PT Nusantara

Wisata, Kemangi Komp. GTL, Kav PP13A, Samarinda, East Kalimantan, Phone: +62-541-273666

• PT Myla Tour, 6 Kemakmuran Street, Samarinda, East Kalimantan, Phone: +62-541-7730146

• JL Tour & Travel, Jenderal Sudirman Street, Tarakan, Phone: +62-551-32615

• Borneo Tour & Travel, Balikpapan, Mr. Joko (+62811545793), email: tborneo@indo.net.id

• Honey Tour, Endang Gunawan ( +628176941777), Zikri (+6281802156188), Herdi (+6281995194009)

Bada valley, central

sUlawesi• PT Rajawali

Ashab, 24 Sis Aljufri Street, Palu, Phone: +62-451-4725858

• PT Primadona Tours, 1 Raden Saleh Street, Palu, Phone: +62-451-429850

• Avia Express Tour & Travel, 4 Dr. Moh. Hatta Street, Palu, Phone: +62-451-422895

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Accommodation around the village is provided by the locals.

there are plenty of traditional Batak houses in the village. All of them are hundreds of years old, yet are still well preserved; gorga, traditional Batak carvings, adorn the walls. the village also houses a historical site: the tombs of King tambun and King Ma, former Batak kings.

Visiting the village, tourists can watch local artisans weave ulos (traditional Batak garment) in front of their houses. the ulos from Jangga Village is popular the world over for their strength, complicated motives and beauty. the artisans will happily teach you how to weave the cloth, and if you are interested, you can purchase them as souvenirs.l

Korowai Tribe, Papua

DeeP in tHe JungLe

the Korowai tribe was not found until around 30 years ago. For centuries, their existence was hidden by the thick jungle of Kaibar District in Mappi Regency, Papua – south of the foot of Mount Jayawijaya. It is said that before being discovered, they thought they were the only existing people on earth. this theory

is often used to explain their distinct culture from other Papuan tribes. One of the obvious differences is fashion. Unlike most Papuan tribes, the males of Korowai do not wear koteka, a tribal penis gourd; instead, they wear skirts made from tree fibers.

With around 3,000 members, the Korowai tribe is staying true to their traditions. Each family builds its house on trees that grow between 15 and 50 meters above ground. this practice is being done to avoid wild animals as well as cast off evil spirits. From the heights of their houses, we can see Papua’s beautiful scenery.

Once there was a rumor of cannibalism practiced

among the Korowai tribe. But now, the practice no longer exists. Cannibalism used to be practiced as a mere form of punishment. today, they will welcome visitors to stay at their houses and live life the way they do. Deep in the jungle, it almost feels like time stops turning.

to get there, we have to get on cars and boats, then walk through the jungle, pass the rivers and swamps. the Kaibar District is located next to Boven Digoel Regency. Another way to get there is through the Asmat Regency, tracing along the river for two days, then continue on foot to the village. During the trip, we may need to stop by and spend nights in several Papuan tribal villages. But don’t worry; other tribes are also accustomed to welcoming passersby.l

Wae Rebo, East Nusa Tenggara

Live LiKe LoCaLs

there is only one way to reach Wae Rebo, the village where traditional cone-shaped houses are still preserved: by walking through the 10,500-hectare Mount todo Repok nature conservation. the locals are able to walk this 30-centimeter-wide footpath in one and a half to two hours – and barefooted too. For visitors,

however, reaching the village in four hours is already an accomplishment.

But all your exhaustions will disappear once you see the seven black cone-shaped traditional houses. the mbaru niang, as they are called by the locals, nestles at a foothill; sometimes covered in mist. there, you may experience the lives of the locals: sleeping in the mbaru niang, savoring local dishes as well as bathing and washing in the river. Naturally, these are not hotels; but the locals’ warmth and modesty will make you feel at home.

the water and air are fresh and clean, and the meals are quite delicious – you may even ask for halal meals. tourists can also learn about local culture and tradition, including about the architecture of mbaru niang, which were built without any nails. All of these are available at a price Rp 150,000 per night.

tourists from outside Flores usually get there through Labuan Bajo, continued with a five-hour journey on land to Denge in Satarmese District Manggarai. Staying a night in one of the locals’ houses, the journey continues to Kombo Village, where a walking passage will take visitors to Wae Rebo. l

korowai triBe, papUa

• Limbunan Tours & Travel, 68 Argapura Raya Street, Jayapura, Phone: +62-967-35430, 35498

• Papua Adventure Tour & Travel, Mr. Gantang (+6281344628586, +62817364243), email: info@papuaadventure.com, info@papuaholidays.com

• Honey Tour, Endang Gunawan ( +628176941777), Zikri (+6281802156188), Herdi (+6281995194009)

wae reBo, east nUsa tenggara • PT Pitoby Travel,

136 Sudirman Street, Phone: +62-380-832700

• PT Duta Nusantara, Sudirman Street, Kupang, Phone: +62-380-821240

• PT Floressa Travel, 15 Mawar Street, Kupang, Phone: +62-380-832012

Jangga village,

nortH sUmatera • New Pacific

Holidays, 94 Palang Merah Street, Medan, Phone: +62-61-537840

• Seiba Tour & Travel, 3-G Bukit Barisan Street, Medan, Phone: +62-61-511950

• Avia Interliner, 82 Sisingamangaraja Street, Medan, Phone: + 62-61-712426, 766330

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t r a d i t i o n a l v i l l a g e

Presenting: Baiturrahman

Mosque and Kupi Ulee

Kareng

neatly displayed. Plus, there is no entrance free. Across the museum is the Blang Padang field,

where a world-dedicated monument of gratitude stands. Plaques engraved with words like “thank you” and “peace” in the different languages of the countries involved in the Aceh reconstruction project surround the field. the replica of the Seulawah plane is also on display. the plane had been a gift from the people of Aceh to the Republic of Indonesia for the

the world had mourned with Banda Aceh as a huge tsunami hit the region in 2004. But today in 2013, the city that is known as “the gateway to Mecca” has rebuilt itself to charm the world once more. Aceh, a city with open arms and a warm heart, is ready to welcome every visitor.

the first of Aceh's must-see places is the Baiturrahman Mosque. If only this mosque could tell a story, it would have narrated the romance of Aceh. Built by Sultan Iskandar Muda (1607-1636), the mosque used to be a center of religious studies. Students came from various regions. Most notable of all included Saudi Arabia, turkey, India, and Persia.

the 4,760 square-meter mosque has its floors covered in Italian marbles. Sitting on the floor, one will feel the coolness of the stones. Its seven domes and four towers add a graceful touch to the mosque's elegant décor. Entering the mosque feels like an out-of-this-world experience, one that only permits gratitude and prayers. the essence of the Acehnese culture and identity immediately become comprehensible as one walks through the gate.

then, continue your journey to other corners. Visit the various Aceh tsunami memorials, ones that have been tended for with much care by the city government. Some of the memorials include the floating diesel power plant in Punge, the floating boat on the roof, and of course, the charming Ulee Lheue mass graves.

Another must-visit is the tsunami Museum. Its unique, meaningful structure is worthy of the city’s pride. Architecture enthusiasts will definitely enjoy the beauty of its design and structure. What is inside is even more interesting: important, high-quality information on the tsunami is well organized and

The Simpang Lima Monument at night, Banda Aceh

Warm greetings From BanDa aCeH

Banda aceH city

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aceH’s convenience

Banda Aceh is an archway of the Aceh Province. Banda Aceh’s Iskandar Muda International Airport can be

reached from any city, reflected by the number of incoming flights. The distance between the center of the

city and the airport is no more than half an hour, given the fact that there is no such thing as a traffic jam in

Banda Aceh.

The city is not that big. Hence, getting around it is quite easy. One can reach all of the city corners by car in

half a day. Nevertheless, despite its size, many tourism destinations can be found all around the city.

The central point is the Baiturrahman Mosque, a convenient starting point to reach other destinations.

On average, trips from the Mosque to other destinations take about two hours; although, to reach the Tsunami

Museum only takes 15 minutes. Trips to the mass graves, the Apung Diesel Power Plant, the Thanks to the World

Monument, and the coffee shop serving authentic Acehnese coffee are equally convenient.

Goat Curry

A durian stall at Banda Aceh.

“Banda Aceh is 808 years

old. There are many beautiful

places to visit and things

to enjoy: mountains,

oceans, beaches, rivers,

cuisines, and of course, culture.”

Museum Tsunami, Banda Aceh

Traditional house, Banda Aceh

latter's establishment; in fact, it was the origin of Garuda Indonesia.

Other than sightseeing, visitors are also encouraged to taste the region’s authentic cuisines. Banda Aceh is known for its kupi (coffee), Acehnese noodle, goat curry, and bu guri (savory rice). Coffee lovers definitely should not miss the unique blend of a true Acehnese kupi: Robusta and Arabica are mixed together, creating an aroma so fragrant that it lingers till you get home.

“this city has become an Islamic tourism Port, and the Banda Aceh city government has named 2011 as the year of tourism,” said Hj. Illiza Sa’aduddin Djamal, SE, deputy mayor of Banda Aceh. “Banda Aceh is 808 years old. there are many beautiful places to visit and things to enjoy: mountains, oceans, beaches, rivers, cuisines, and of course, culture.”

Illiza added that the people of Banda Aceh are ready to welcome both local and foreign visitors. they have understood the significance of tourism as one of Indonesia’s economic boosters.

Jak beutraek kalen beudeuh bek rugae meuh saket hate, translates to “come if you will; if not, it’s your loss”. Banda Aceh extends its arms and opens its heart for those who appreciate the beauty of the archipelago. l

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t r a d i t i o n a l v i l l a g e

64

Not for the faiNt-heartedPhoto: Wahyu Setiawan, Text: Agoeng Wijaya

Buleleng Canyon is a hidden treasure that is not for those who have phoBias, like heights. But if one is willing to take the risk and leave one’s Comfort zone, the rewards are unforgettaBle. it’s not just the vista, But the experienCe of going down the falls from a height equal to four storeys.

Buleleng Canyon, Bali

65

s p o r t ss p o r t s

supii Liem clutched the harness wrapped around my waist. in a few centimeters the front tips of my boots would touch the edge of the cliff. There was no more road in front of me. Down below were giant pools that were whirled around by buckets of waterfall water. The 14-meter high waterfall was exactly to

my right. All around us was nothing but towering padas rocks.

“Jump, Mas, do not overthink,” Supii said. Easy for him to say. Moments earlier, we had jumped three times into the river from the edge of the waterfall. But that was only seven-meters high. This time i had to jump from a height the equivalent of a four-storey building. Suddenly my legs felt boneless. My ears felt like they were burning. Breathing had become a heavy exercise when i occasionally stole a look downward.

Bold and courageous i no longer was, but retreating held more terror for me. The shame of it! in front of me, pham Luong An, a female tourist from Vietnam who is a part of our group, had dared to jump first. She didn’t waste even one second after Supii gave a shout of encouragement. Crazy!

Not jumping was not an option. i swung my right leg forward, took wide steps, and suddenly i was treading on air. My body plunged down quickly, sucked by gravity. “Wooohhh,” i shouted, feeling the pressure of blood flow from my feet to my head. i still had time to open my arms to maintain my balance while flying down.

Splash...!For a brief moment, everything was dark before it

burst into bubbles of water. My body was sucked into

GitGit and sam-banGan

VillaGes

Gitgit village, famous for the Gitgit

waterfall, is located about 65 kilometers

north of Denpasar. It is approximately 13 kilometers south of the capital city

of Buleleng, Singaraja.

Sambangan village, home to the Aling-

aling waterfall, is northwest of Gitgit and not too far away.

Bali Sea

Singaraja

Gitgit

Bedugul

Kintamani

Sambangan

the pool for a few meters. But long before i touched bottom, i went back up again. A sense of joy filled me as i reached the surface. up in the air, hundreds of bats scattered from the tops of their niches as if in celebration of my success. Then again, they may have also been upset by the shock of hearing the echo of my screams.

Tempo photographer Wahyu Setiawan was luckier

66

(or perhaps not?). using the camera in his backpack as an excuse, he did not jump. Wahyu slid down the cliff using a rope. That is called the flying fox technique. “Yahoooo,” he shouted, once again noisily breaking the silence of the cliff abyss.

That was just a tiny experience early last month when Wahyu, An and i went on a canyoning expedition along the Banyu Mala river, Sambangan village, Bali.

Because the sport was relatively extreme, we were guided by Supii and Abraham Firmansyah. Both were certified professional instructors from Adventure and Spirit, a canyoning tour provider based in Gitgit village, southeast of Sambangan.

The five of us waded in the tukad—Balinese for river—like frogmen ready for combat. Our bodies were wrapped in suits made of neoprene, a kind of

Roping down the waterfall in Sambangan.

67

s p o r t s

elastic rubber similar to that of a wetsuit. Harness straps complete with a set of carabiners were secured around our waists and thighs. There were also safety helmets, gloves, boots and backpacks filled with hundreds of meters of kernmantle rope.

All the equipment was necessary because during the canyoning, we did not just jump into a river from the top of a cliff. We also had to swim a river, glide on rocks and rappel waterfalls.

Sound terrifying? Believe me, i, who had never done any of the above was at some points scared stiff. The same went for Wahyu, who could not really swim. That was why it was two days before we decided to plunge into Tukad Banyu Mala.

This was all triggered by Michael Denissot, the Adventure and Spirit boss who was also co-chairman of the international Canyoning Organization for professionals. Three days earlier he made us curious when he said, “You should try Aling, that is what you would call paradise.” What he meant by Aling is Aling-aling, the waterfall that would be the final destination of canyoning in Banyu Mala.

Tukad Banyu Mala is exactly as its name. Banyu

means water and mala means dirty. Twigs and leaves did indeed fill the riverbanks, swinging as the water carried them to crash into the wall of rocks. However, it was indeed a paradise.

it was not the kind paradise depicted in the holy books where a river is flanked by trees; it is deep and long with towering cliffs. So high they were that the sky above only looked like a wide white stripe the width of a hand. From up there, sun rays penetrated several points to form a silhouette of the valley, as if unable to reach us at the bottom of the ravine.

We swam slowly, climbed up rocks and slipped and slid down. Several times i could not resist the urge to go underwater, walk on tiptoes or splash water into the air. The gorge with the towering batu padas was transformed into the perfect hiding place to release my inner child.

Of course Supii and Firman kept a watchful eye on our antics. Along the journey they took turns informing us of the challenges ahead. Several times their messages were conveyed through hand signals because the roar of the waterfall sometimes forced us to shout if we wanted to be heard.

Twin waterfalls in Gitgit, Bali.

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HoW to Get tHere?

There are quite a few things to see on the way to Gitgit,

so renting a car or motorbike

and taking the time to see

them would be worth it. From

Denpasar, about 13 kilometers

to Gitgit, is the Bedugul tourism complex, which

includes Beratan Lake and Eka

Karya Botanical Garden.

Car rental rates:

Cars: Rp210,000-400,000 per

day (depending on type)

Motorcycles: Rp50,000-

100,000 per day

Public transport:L300

Transportation from Ubung

Terminal, Denpasar to

Singaraja: Rp35,000-

40,000

L300 Transportation from Mengwi

Terminal, Denpasar to

Singaraja: Rp25,000

Mini Bus from Ubung Terminal

(mornings and evenings only)

to Singaraja: Rp35,000-

40,000

When we were facing the edge of a waterfall, for example, Supii showed his right palm as a signal to stop. His left hand made a virtual line in the direction of the water to show us how far we should approach. Only when he waved in his direction could we come nearer, putting the harness the way he taught us before we departed.

Several times Firman showed his right hand rubbing the back of his left hand as a sign of slippery rocks, we must be careful. Often they closed their arms to their chests indicating we must bend our legs slightly when touching shallow waters.

Splash...! Tukad Banyu Mala seemed to have deliberately set up a natural circuit ready for us to slip and slide away.

Not far from there, an unnamed 20-meter waterfall greeted us. “Rappel for 15 meters, then jump at the last five meters,” Supii said, giving us directions on the edge of the cliff. Firman was waiting below to help us jump down.

Each time before rappelling, i would take a deep breath. Not really trusting the typical tools of climbers, i would grip the kernmantle too tightly. My arms became sore trying to support my weight that was admittedly heavier than it should be. Going down became more difficult.

But there was no way i could resist going down. Waiting for us below was a pool the size of an

indoor soccer field. The water was the shade of emerald green. On the right side was the mini Tukad Api waterfall rushing and racing to fill the lake. Two gigantic rocks the size of a house were stuck between two cliffs 20 meters above us.

Mesmerized, we could not stop looking up. A sense of horror and wonder swept over us as to how such enormous things could perch there. Whimsically thinking, perhaps this was nature’s way of making the cliffs tight with the rocks so that we, humans, could enjoy the flow of the river and the sight of it.

After six hours of scouring the dark ravine, we arrived at the mouth of the canyon that from afar looked like a giant cave surrounded by dense trees. Ahead, a large pool twice the size of a basketball court must be crossed. Right behind it, Aling-aling was already waiting.

Scaling down the 41-meter-high waterfall made my arms numb. Of course, this time i did not have to jump. it was too high. We used a rope to descend. Several times my feet slipped as i scaled the cliff wall, swinging by the rope. But it all paid off the moment we touched ground at the base of the waterfall that ended the trip. Jumping up and down, laughing heartily, we high-fived one another. Wahyu and i looked at each other, shaking our heads, almost in disbelief at the natural wonders we’d just encountered. l

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s p o r t s

lOCATED on the north side of the huge Buyan-Beratan caldera—so far more famous for its Bedugul tourism complex—the rolling hills of southern Buleleng regency hide many sites for canyoning. The atlas clearly prints the hundreds of rivers that go from there to Bali’s northern coast.

Michael Denissot, co-chairman of the international Canyoning Organization for professionals, was entirely convinced that the rivers and canyons that were largely unexplored were just as beautiful as Tukad Banyu Mala. He believed the combination of rivers, batu padas and forests along the valley made south Buleleng—and Bali in general—the best canyoning location in the world. “in Europe you will only find rock cliffs,” he explained.

One such site is Tukad Yeh Kebus—in Balinese, it means hot water river—which can be found in Gitgit village, about 13 kilometers south of Singaraja city. The long canyon that divides the eastern and western sides of the village offers dozens of waterfalls—perhaps even more if the mini-waterfalls are counted as well.

Three days before plunging into Aling-aling canyon, Wahyu Setiawan and i tried it, also guided by Supii Liem and Abraham Firmansyah. unlike Banyu Mala, which comprises towering cliffs, Tukad Yeh Kebus offers a view of the forest that fences off the cliff. Here the highest jump is only about six meters.

A surprise came as we rappelled from a height of 17 meters next to the Bertingkat waterfall, the finish line of the adventure. Firman, who watched from below, stopped us at a height of five meters from the surface of the pond. He led us to the rocks on the edge of the batu padas to approach the roaring waterfall’s tongue.

Like a giant curtain, the falling water hid a cave. From behind the thundering waterfall we jumped into the pool. This time we went right to the foot of the falls. A fitting end that once again made my adrenaline pump, after a barrage of water hit my helmet as i tried to get back up to the surface. l

best Canyon in tHe World

Banyu Mala river canyon, Sambangan.

70

Canyoning enthusiasts believe the sport goes back to the late 19th century, when Eduard Alfred Martel, the father of speleology, the scientific study of caves, first explored Bramabiau—a cave in France famous for its subterranean canyons, rivers and waterfalls. During the next century

canyoning differentiated itself from caving, X, and spread across the world.

Canyoning goes by several names. Europeans call it canyoning; Americans, canyoneering; Africans, kloofing; and Japanese, river tracing. They all mean one thing: scouring canyons; following rivers by swimming, walking and sliding; descending a waterfall on a rope (rappelling) and occasionally jumping.

Good canyoning can be found in indonesia, or to be precise, in the and Gitgit and Sambangan villages of Bali. At the moment, there is only one service provider who is licensed and affiliated with the international Organization for professional Canyoning, namely Adventure and Spirit (www.adventureandspirit.com). included in all their packages is a shuttle service no matter where you stay in Bali.

iNDEX OF CANYONiNG AT GiTGiT:A. pDAM Waterfall (26 meters). Rappelling from a

height of 21 meters, and swimmingB. Campuhan Waterfall/Twin Waterfall (19

meters). Rappelling from a height of 16 meters and sliding

C. Mekalangan Waterfall (25 meters). Rappelling from a height of 20 meters, jumping at a height of 2.5 meters from the rocks at the edge of the waterfalls, and sliding

D. Terraced Waterfall (17 meters). Rappelling from a height of 10 meters, stopping at a height of 6 meters from the surface of a pool, slipping behind the waterfall, then jumping into the pool.

CanyoninGA

B

C

D

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s p o r t s

information Center

Tourism OfficeBali Province Culture and Tourism BoardJl. S. Parman Niti Mandala Renon, Denpasarwww.tourism.baliprov.go.ide-mail: infotourism@baliprov.go.idwebsite: www.tourism.baliprov.go.id

Travel AgentPT Matahari Citra Lautan Emas(Specialize in SportFishing)Phone: +62-31 849 5846Fax.: +62- 31 8439256e-mail: info@balifishing.comwebsite: http://www.balifishing.com

Truly Asia TourDewata Street, Complex Alam Dewata Block E/2, Denpasar, BaliPhone: +62-361 742 6088Fax.: +62-361 728 524Contact: Mr. gede Suryawane-mail: gede@trulyasiatour.com

PT Wung Lucky Perkasa TourBy Pass Ngurah rai Highway Kuta #87X, BaliPhone: +62-361 755 375Fax.: +62-361 765 115Contact: Mr. Peter Gunawane-mail: asiadiv@perkasatour.com

Mandira AbadiDanau Tamblingan Highway #23, Denpasar, BaliPhone: +62-361 847 9950Fax.: +62-361 8479951Contact: Mr. Ardhi tje-mail: ardi@mandiratravel.com

PT Alexandra Bali TourCanggu Permai D III/56, Kuta Utara, Badung, BaliPhone: +62-361 844 4743Fax.: +62-361 844 4743Contact: Mr. Timane-mail: info@alexandrabalitour.com

www.adventureandspirit.com

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Slide down at Yeh Kebus River, Bali.

TEM

PO

/Wa

hyu

SE

TiaW

an

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s p o r t ss p o r t s

Bromo-Semeru Marathon, East Java

GaSPiNG throUGh the MiSt

for Maggie Kim Hong Yeo, a Malaysian runner, the last 6 kilometers of last year’s Bromo Marathon sloping route was unforgettable. “My friends said i ran like crazy when passing the route – pace 4 (four minutes per kilometer). i am good at down sloping,” said the third place winner of the women’s full marathon category

(42,195 kilometers), finishing at 5 hours 13 minutes and 41 seconds.

The Bromo Marathon offers runners (and audience) with a beautiful view of Mount Bromo, with the start and finish points at Wonokitri Village, Tosari in pasuruan, East Java. Held last September for the first time ever, the competition was successfully participated by 1,000 runners; 300 of them come from 20 different countries. This landscape is more moderate than the Rinjani ultra; therefore, suitable for anyone. “The (pasuruan) regent has agreed to make it an annual event,” said Shane Buttler, a peace volunteer from California, who initiated this competition. CNN Travel reported that the event is one of Asia’s five best destinations for running in 2013.

Besides the Bromo Marathon, enjoying the beauty of Bromo-Semeru is possible through participating in the Bromo Tengger Semeru 100 ultra. Held last November by Trail Runners indonesia – a community of mountain runners – the Bromo Tengger Semeru 100 ultra is an extreme mountain running competition, offering participants with three categories: 50, 100 and 160 kilometers. The participants ran pass all of the Bromo Tengger Semeru National park’s most beautiful spots, such as Teletubbies Hill, penanjakan Hill, Ranu pane, Ranu Kumbolo Lake, Kalimati, Bromo Summit and Batok Mount Summit. l

Ultra Trail Rinjani, West Nusa Tenggara

hot, eXtreMe, BrUtaL

for Yannick Douet, a French national, winning the 2013 Mount Rinjani ultra Trail last August was an impressive experience. “The route is really challenging. The sceneries of the Rinjani Summit, Sembalun Savanna and Lake Segara Anak are really beautiful. i couldn’t believe that i won,” said Douet, who managed to complete

the 52-kilometer Senaru-Rinjani Summit-Sembalun-Senaru route in 14 hours 14 minutes and 25 seconds. The maximum time limit was 20 hours.

“The Sembalun climb was heaviest; the air was very hot. But, i will participate again next year,” said Douet, a runner, triathlon athlete and former professional swimmer.

Only 10 of all 92 athletes from the 16 participating countries managed to finish before the time limit. “The route was brutal. Not only you have to be skilled in long-distance running and have strong will; you also need to be able to climb cliffs. Next year we will extend the time limit to 22 hours to give participants more chance of completing the competition,” said Hendra Wijaya, an indonesian senior mountain runner, race initiator and race director. l

bromo semeru

maratHon, east JaVa

• AdiGiantWisata,194C Kapasan Street, Surabaya, Phone: +62-31-310881

• PTAkasaHoliday, 19 Urip Sumoharjo Street, Surabaya, Phone: +62-31-5457945

• HaryonoTour, 27-29 Sulawesi Street, Surabaya, Phone: +62-31-5034000

ultra trail

rinJani, West nusa tenGGara

• BidyTour&Travel, 17 Ragigenep Street, Mataram, Phone: +62-364-22127

• SasakLombokTour&Travel, 7 Subak Street, Mataram, Phone: +62-364-21796

• ArjunaWisataLombokTour&Travel, 4-B Alamanda Street, Mataram, Phone: +62-364-21044

• FirelliTour&Travel,Mataram, Mr. Didik (+62-431-811119, +62812125254243), email: firelli-tour@centrin.net.id

• HoneyTour, Endang Gunawan ( +628176941777), Zikri (+6281802156188), Herdi (+6281995194009)

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Papandayan Mount Biking, West Java

aCroSS the SteaMiNG CaLdera

mountain biking on Mount papandayan is a common thing. Starting your track towards the peak from the Cisurupan District, Garut Regency is also common. What’s not common is taking the pangalengan District track in the Bandung Regency.

The trip starts at a tea plantation in Sedep, from which bikers pedal through Kampung Cibaturua until the pondok Salada camping ground where many edelweiss grow. From there, the papandayan Summit, at 2,644 meters above sea level, is only one trip away. Don’t stop – just under the summit, the papandayan

caldera awaits. This is what distinguishes papandayan from other mountains’ bike tracks.

Crossing the caldera, adrenaline shoots high. While the hissing sulfur vapor encourages you to go as quickly as you can, the track, covered with volcanic rocks, prevents you to do so; at times, you even need to carry your bike instead of riding it. After about six hours, you will arrive at the Cisurupan District. The majestic view of Mount Cikuray on the horizon is a sweet bonus to a tiring day.

Bikers are advised to visit during dry season, because the fog can get too thick during rainy season. Bring enough supply, and most importantly, always check if the mountain is safe to be visited. l

Tangkahan Tubing, North Sumatera

fLoat, SWiM aNd reLaX

there is a more challenging way to enjoy the green vegetation of Mount Leuser National park: sit on a huge tire and float through the Batang River of Langkat Regency, North Sumatera. Floating down a calm river with tranquil view of the forest on each of its sides is good for your nerves. if you are lucky, you may see monkeys

hanging around from tree to tree. Things will get even more interesting when you are faced with a heavy stream.

Tubing for four and a half hours, the trip ends at Gelugur Waterfall. “You can swim there,” said Rilly from the Community Tour Operator of the Tangkahan Tourism Office. Tubing in Tangkahan can be enjoyed with a price of Rp 200,000 per person.

To get to the Tangkahan River, you may rent a car from the Kualanamu Airport, Medan, which usually costs around Rp 600,000-Rp 700,000 per car per trip. You may also get on a three-hour trip by pembangunan Semesta bus, which leaves from the pinang Baris Bus Station in Medan twice a day around 9:30 a.m. and 10:30 a.m. local time. l

tanGkaHan tubinG, nortH

sumatera • NewPacific

Holidays,94 Palang Merah Street, Medan, Phone: +62-61-537840

• SeibaTour&Travel,3-G Bukit Barisan Street, Medan, Phone: +62-61-511950

• AviaInterliner, 82 Sisingamangaraja Street, Medan, Phone: +62-61-712426, 766330

papandayan mount

bikinG, West JaVa

• Vayatour,42 Sunda Street, Bandung, Phone: +62-22-4261739

• PTAbadiWisataTour&Travel,5 Mochammad Toha Street, Bandung, Phone: +62-22-5201104

• Aerotravel,81 Asia Afrika Street, Bandung, Phone: +62-22-4203657

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s p o r t s

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AFP

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CasCading at the Forest edgePhoto: Aditia Noviansyah, Text: Qaris Tajudin

By the Bahau RiveR, life stands still, untouched By loggeRs, mineRs oR oil palm planteRs. as we Rested By the Banks of the RiveR, gRilling fReshly caught fish, ButteRflies peRched on ouR aRms, ouR heads—unafRaid. when the BReeze Blew ouR way, the leaves on the tRees whispeRed its lament, some fell on the gRound, like confetti at a celeBRation.

Bahau River, North Kalimantan

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We were guided on our trip by four Apau Ping residents: Ding Njuk, Dan Salo, Rodes Jan and Titus Lawing. The four of them were members of the Dayak Kenyah, the largest tribe in North Kalimantan. Only Titus was from Dayak Punan. Two ketinting—a three-meter-long proa with width enough for a human body—took us from Apau Ping upstream and turned toward Berau on the right side. The deeper we went, the denser the trees and the more peaceful the surroundings. Except for our ketinting, no other boats passed by.

After mooring our boat to a tree root dangling into the river, Ding was ready to dive. His sleek body moved easily through the water. All the villagers along the Bahau’s banks can swim well, given that they have been diving into its waters since they were four years old. By elementary school they can usually take the ketinting out on their own to go fishing.

Armed with a homemade fish bow, Ding went diving for one minute, two minutes—lo and behold, by the third minute he held aloft an arrow that had pierced a pelian fish as big as a human thigh. He rested a bit before diving in again, swimming through tree roots and popping up again with another fish.

I swam farther out, toward the protruding boulders

Malinau

Tarakan

Long Bia

Long Pujungan

Selor BayLong Alango

Apau Ping

Long Tua

Juwata Airport

THE scorching afternoon gradually eased as we entered Berau, a 20-meter-wide tributary canopied by the large trees of the Kayan Mentarang forest. Its water flowed peacefully, almost without ripples. When the boat’s outboard engine was turned off, we could hear the leaves rubbing one another just like

the whispers of fairies in a storybook.More than one place in Kalimantan goes by the

name of Berau, but the one we visited last month was a tributary in Malinau Regency, North Kalimantan. The visit was part of the exploration along the Berau River conducted by myself, photographer Aditya Noviansyah and adventure specialist Dody Johanjaya. Two days before going to Berau, we arrived at Apau Ping, the last village in Hulu Berau district, after riding down the 350-kilometer-long Kayan and Bahau Rivers for four days.

We picked the Bahau River because it was still well-preserved. Flowing from the forest along the border with Malaysia, the Bahau flows into the much larger Kayan River. While the Bahau is only 50 meters wide, the Kayan can get up to 200 meters wide. Unlike in most Kalimantan rivers, no logs were flowing down the Bahau. No logging mills had reached this place yet, nor were there palm oil plantations or coal mines. Forest lined both of its banks. Occasionally among the dense trees was the mouth of a tributary like Berau.

Kalimantan

78

where the water was shallow, to enjoy a temporary solitude. There were some small rapids there with clear water from the bright afternoon sun.

Around lunchtime we headed back to Bahau and pulled the ketinting over to the boulders to eat. Ding cleaned the gray-colored fish with scales as large as one-thousand-rupiah coins. Dan cut a bamboo pole with which to steam the fish entrails. Rodes cut off wet stems as sticks for barbeque. And Titus gathered dry wood to make fire. Fifteen minutes later, the fish was over the fire. Half an hour later, its meat was in our stomach.

As we ate, a few butterflies came around. A butterfly of the vindula erota kind perched on my palm. It had an orange color with a black strip along the edge. It seemed to take my hand for a flower and tried to stab its proboscis into my skin but failed. Its proboscis was too thick and soft, unlike a mosquito’s.

Butterflies and other winged insects such as dragonflies were all over the riverbank, but not in the jungle. From the bank we could see beehives on the tree branches. The hives were black, as large as a 70-kilogram knapsack. On fallen leaves further into the jungle, we saw giant ants (componotus gigas) walking individually. They could be as large as half

Animals often seen in Behau

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Ding Njuk and his freshly caught fish.

followingTwo rivers

when is The besT Time?In the rainy season, the water current is too strong, so

many boats dare not take the river. In the dry season, the water ebbs, so boats have trouble sailing. The best time

is in between the seasons. Unfortunately, these days the season cycles are uncertain.

how much does iT cosT?The high price of gasoline upstream (Rp16,000 to

Rp21,000 per liter of Premium fuel) makes motorized boats very expensive. The price fluctuates, but it ranges

from Rp20 million to Rp30 million per person. That includes accommodation, local guide services and

meals there.

waTer TransporTaTion

40 HP, made out of optic fiber, 5 passengers

12-18 HP, made out of wood,3 passengers (200 kilograms)

5 x 40 HP, made out of wood, 20 passengers (up to 8 tons of luggage)

2.5 meters

5 meters

21 meters

01

Fast boat

Ketinting

Long boat

a little finger. A little frightening, “But they bite only when threatened,” Ding said. “After biting, its head falls off and dies.”

fIvE days earlier, we had started the journey from Tanjung Selor from the mouth of the Kayan River. After four days of traversing the Kayan, we arrived at Apau Ping. Even though the journey was long, it was not tiresome. From the wooden boat, we often saw pairs of hawks flying around over the liat trees on the right side

of the river toward the ketepai treetops to the left of it. White storks perched en masse on a tree.

Large keruing trees towered upward as tall as 30 meters. Small-leaved trees like banyans thrust their trunks down to the banks of river, their beards flowing down to the surface of the water. The leaves were falling off like confetti at a birthday party. The rock cliffs protect these trees from the ebbing tide,

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regardless of the season.We did enjoy the dense forest panorama when

going upstream, but the breathtaking experience took place as we returned from Apau Ping. At first, as it was a turnaround route, I thought that the trip would only be a repeat. Nevertheless, the different viewpoint meant the landscape had changed. The stone cliffs appeared more protruding when we departed from downstream.

We felt a sharp difference when we passed through some 20 rapids along the Bahau. Despite not going against the current, it turned out that passing the rapids was not easy. This was entirely different from the enjoyment of shooting the rapids by means of a flexible rubber boat. The boat we were in was made of wood, so it could break if it ran against a boulder. Its hull was not even like that of a rubber boat, but in the form of an upside-down pyramid. Even a sneeze by a passenger could shake the boat.

Therefore, letting the boat flow by the current was not the action taken by Jalung Aran, one of the motorists who took us from Apau Ping to Long Pujungan. In fact, the man, who has his birthday 8-11-1975 tattooed on his calf, pulled the accelerator deeply over the rapids to enable his ketinting to speed up quickly. “If we go slow, I’m unable to turn the boat,” he said. The only control was the blade behind the motor propeller. This blade would not function if the propeller did not turn. With the propeller turning quickly, it could make a zig-zag movement through the prominent boulders. Yet as a result, the boat was speeding and this was suspenseful. very often the hull of the boat grazed the stones. In fact, at Kiram Telaso, Jalung almost got the boat running against an elephant-sized boulder. He managed to turn his boat a few centimeters off the cliff.

Thanks to his skill, we arrived at Long Pujung Tian safely, half the journey down.

yAKUB Jalung, 37, a civil servant from Long Pujungan, gave us a ride from Pujungan to Tanjung Selor, the town at the tip of the Kayan River across from Tarakan. He was going to buy cement at Selor for the construction project of a state-owned junior high school at Pujungan. Incidental passengers would

surely increase the money to buy gasoline for his boat: Rp12 million for one trip. In addition to the three of us, there were four other passengers riding in Yakub’s boat, two men and two women. Like Yakub, the two male passengers carried a rifle.

The 21-meter-long boat with three engines of 40 horsepower each started moving at noon. Actually it was too late for an eight-hour journey to Tanjung Selor. We would surely stay overnight on the way. That was why Yakub looked relaxed. Wearing a broad-brimmed cap, he was standing at the bow, holding a three-meter wooden stick. He resembled Noah in his ark.

At the stern were three motorists. As they were not using a single steer, the three of them worked in unison, like cabaret dancers. If one held out their hands to the right, the others had to do likewise. If one pulled his arm to the left, the other three had to go left too. Usually they knew when to make a turn. Nonetheless during the current drought, the role of the stoneman at the bow was essential. High tide concealed many stones, but now they protruded and could cause a fast-moving boat to capsize.

Twice Yakut asked the motorists to stop the boat so he could net fish. He got two of them that were as big as my thigh, but Yakub always said, “This is a small fish.” Indeed, the two fish were not enough to feed the seven passengers and five crewmen later in the night. But our worry was brief.

Not far from where Yakub cast the net when the

whaT To carry?

Sunscreen (the heat is almost

unbearable and we could be

baked all day aboard).

Waterproof knapsack (dry

bag).

Hat

Pants and T-shirts that

can dry quickly (available in

adventure shops).

Raincoat

Life buoys (bring your

own, as traditional

boats do not provide them).

Enough cash to pay your way (there are no

ATMs).

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Rainforest River Borneo Indonesia ww

w.s

hu

tter

sto

ck

.co

m

Tourism OfficeEast Kalimantan & North Kalimantan Province Tourism Office22 Jend. Sudirman Street, Samarinda, East Kalimantanwebsite: www.dispar.kaltim.go.id

Travel AgentJL Tours and TravelJenderal Sudirman Street, Tarakan, East KalimantanPhone: +62-551 32615Fax.: +62-551 32615Contact: Mr. Samuel Djakariae-mail: jltoursandtravel@yahoo.com

PT Delapan Mutiara29 Dr. Soetomo

Street, Samarinda, East KalimantanPhone: +62-541 738 970Fax.: +62-541 738899

Dody Adventurewebsite: www.dodyadventure.com

Borneo Tour & Travel (Balikpapan), Mr. Joko (+62811545793), e-mail: tborneo@indo.net.id

Honey Tour, Endang Gunawan (+628176941777), Zikri (+6281802156188), Herdi (+6281995194009)

informaTion cenTer

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boat was speeding, we were startled by the sound of bang, bang, bang! Three rifle shots barked out, and a pig was dying on the bank of the river. The boat made a U-turn to pick it up. Yakub speared the animal to end its suffering.

As the boat sailed rapidly, I took in the forest’s beauty, but the three musketeers were able to see a passing dinner. Just before the rifle was fired, a gang of pigs were about to cross the river. Pigs are good swimmers. They move from one side of the forest to another in search of food. Normally migration takes place in July. The local people term it swimming-pigs season. But the phenomenon happens during other months, too.

The rifle fired again within the hour. Another pig kicked the bucket.

nIgHT came suddenly since the black clouds hid the dusk in the western sky. Without our knowing it, a fog had descended on the treetops, chilling the air. Yakub spread his right hand, signifying to the three motorists to pull the boat over to the edge of the river. He turned his to face us. “We spend the night

here,” he said, sounding more like a commander.The three engines stopped the roaring sound. The

long boat pulled over, driven by the remaining force of the engines. Foam and water ripples sneaked beneath the hull before the boat landed on the soft sand. Temporarily our journey stopped here. It was too hazardous to proceed. The night hid the boulders and logs. Treacherous rapids could not be seen, either. It was impossible to stay overnight in a resident’s house. The nearest kampung was a two-hour journey. Around us was only dense jungle.

For a while we were surrounded by a magic silence, much like listening to the Moonlight Sonata piano concerto: peaceful but backed by a certain grandeur. Under the cover of the increasingly pitch-black darkness, the jungle around us was not truly sleeping. The river was still flowing and we heard little splashes. Some animals were still awake. We could still hear some of them in the distance.

There were no stars, just an occasional lightning upstream. We prayed that the black clouds turned into rain so that the water rose, thus making the journey easier. Nonetheless, we also knew that not every prayer was answered.

Noone ever steps in the same river twice, for it’s not the same river, and they are never the same person. l

Katembu stone cemetary in Long Breni .

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Alas River, Aceh

the riVer oF red aPes

The River of Red Apes – so the Alas River is called. Crossing the Kutacane area in the Southeast Aceh Regency, Alas snakes through the Mount Leuser National Park, home of the red apes. The apes can be seen by the riverside, hanging from tree to tree; but, to really see them, we have to walk as

deep as 2 kilometers into the forest. If we are lucky, we may catch a glimpse of

the Common Brimstone, a species of yellow butterflies from the family of Pieridae. These butterflies fly in a formation, like that of a long ribbon.

At 10 to 20 meters long, Alas has dozens of rapids that are friendly enough for beginners. The river can be reached in nine hours by car from Medan to Ketambe, the river’s starting point. Today, Kutacane can be reached in 45 minutes by plane from Medan. Then, a 45-minute car ride follows to reach Ketambe. There are many local guides in Ketambe, who are more than willing to take tourists to the Alas River. l

KruengTripa, Aceh

throUgh the deadLY raPids

rikiet Jait or Terangon is the starting point of KruengTripa, the river that splits the forest from Blangkajeren, gayoLues Regency at the North Sumatra-Southeast Aceh border to Kuala Tripa in Southeast Aceh. The river has approximately 20 rapids

that is rarely passed, spreading across three regions: Nanga, Perlak and Tongra. Almost impossible to be rafted through, rafters choose to take the land route and carry their boats instead.

One of the deadly rapids is Ketanjoranat Tongra, which features terraced landscape with many curves. Adrenaline junkies have recklessly rafted through it, ending up at Kuala Tripa. It took them five days and four nights.

To reach the location, drive from Medan to Kutacane. The trip takes approximately eight hours. Continue to Blangkajeren for three more hours. “At Blangkajeren,” said Said Murthaza, commander of the Mount Leuser National Park’s forest rangers, “you can choose your starting points: RikietJait or Terangon.” l

alas river, aceh

• AtraBaruTour&Travel,40 Mohd. Jam Street, Banda Aceh, Phone: +62-651-23651

• TripaWisataTour&Travel,24 Mesjid Raya Street, Banda Aceh, Phone: +62-651-21455

• NatrabuTour&Travel,Taman Tepi Laut, Lhoknga, Banda Aceh Main Road, Phone: +62-651-32029

Krueng Tripa, aceh

• GasidaKaryaTravelAgent,41-B K.H. Ahmad Dahlan Street, Banda Aceh, Phone: +62-651-22245

• TripaWisataTour&Travel,24 Mesjid Raya Street, Banda Aceh, Phone: +62-651-21455

• NatrabuTour&Travel, Taman Tepi Laut, Lhoknga, Banda Aceh Main Road, Phone: +62-651-32029

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Boh River, North Kalimantan

CarVed CLiFFs and KingFishes

boh River, the Mahakam River Creek, meanders along the Malinau Regency, West Kutai and ends at Long Bagun. From Balikpapan or Samarinda, visitors can reach Boh River in three days.

“There are a lot of beautiful views from the Mahakam River up to Long Bagun. One of

whichis the karst cliffs, which look like carved rocks,” said AmaliaYunita, chair of the Indonesian Rafting Federation (FAJI), who visited Boh River in 2012. Long Bagun is commonly used as a one-day transit area by rafters before continuing their land journey to the Agung Raya village, the starting point to exploring Boh River.

The forest along Boh River is rich. Rare orchids, as well as rattle snakes, are often found here. Kingfishes

as long as 1.5 meters still can be found easily in the river. For rafting enthusiasts, Boh River may be a fun choice of adventure. l

Cikandang River, West Java

West JaVa’s PreCioUs Virgin

cikandang River is located at the Sukamulya village, Pakenjeng District, approximately 60 kilometers or three hours’ drive from garut, West Java. The river exploration may start from the hills of Ciarinem, South garut, which ends at Cijayana, the sea of Pameungpeuk. This route is 20 kilometers long.

Cikandang River’s upstream and down stream are far from community settlements, preserving the purity of the rainforest vegetation and water quality at the upstream area. Mid-sized rapids can be found

ciKandang river,

wesT Java • BayuBuana, 150D

Pasir Kaliki Street, Bandung, Phone: +62-22-4211711

• PTAbadiWisataTour&Travel, 5 Mochammad Toha Street, Bandung, Phone: +62-22-5201104

• Aerotravel,81 Asia Afrika Street, Bandung, Phone: +62-22-4203657

boh river, norTh

KalimanTan • PTNusantara

Wisata, Kemangi Komp. GTL, Kav PP13A, Samarinda, East Kalimantan, Phone: +62-541-273666

• JLTour&Travel,Jenderal Sudirman Street, Tarakan, Phone: +62-551-32615

• PTMylaTour,6 Kemakmuran Street, Samarinda, East Kalimantan, Phone: +62-541-7730146

• BorneoTour&Travel,Balikpapan, Mr. Joko (+62811545793), email: tborneo@indo.net.id

• HoneyTour, Endang Gunawan ( +628176941777), Zikri (+6281802156188), Herdi (+6281995194009)

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Kapuas Hulu Rivers, West Kalimantan

into the daYaK’s territorY

Kapuas Hulu is a regency in the eastern part of West Kalimantan, where the upstream of Kapuas River, the longest river in Indonesia, is located. Creeks, like Utik and Embaloh, empty at the Kapuas River. Up the stream, these creeks directly border with the Betung Kerihun National

easily, especially at the confluence of the Ciarinem and Cikandang Rivers. Natural karsts add to the river’s richness.

given the river’s morphology and number of rapids, Cikandang’s level of difficulty can be classified as moderate with rafting time of more or less five hours. l

Bahorok River, North Sumatera

riding on the tUBe

bahorok River flows from Bukit Lawang, an area of the Mount Leuser National Park, North Sumatra and empties ata bigger river, theWampu River. The most interesting destination is the Orangutan Rehabilitation Center, where orangutans are prepared to be returned to its natural habitat in the national

park. visitors may also stroll around and camp at the Mount Leuser National Park.

A package for tubing is available. Unlike rafting, which uses rubber boat, tubing uses a number of tires tied together. Since the river is rocky and mere-ly a meter deep, it is ideal for tubing, but not for raft-ing. “It takes two hours to reach the finishing point from Bukit Lawang,” said Jony Kurniawan, one of the tourism operators at Bahorok River.

Located in the Bahorok District, Langkat Regen-cy, North Sumatra, visitors can reach this river in two and a half hoursby car from Medan. l

Park, not far from Putussibau, the Kapuas Hulu capital.

With a boat we can move down the creeks that go deeper into the forest. Along the way, well-maintained longhouses of the Dayak tribe can be found on the riverside as well as in the Dayak Iban’s and the Dayak Embaloh’s tourism villages. To spend the night, visitors may stay at the camps in the National Park at the Embaloh River’s upstream or at local villagers’ longhouses.

The best time to visit is either during the Dayak Iban’s New Year on June 1 or during the fruit season between August and November when red-fleshed durians grow aplenty.

To reach Kapuas Hulu, visitors can take the one-and-a-half-hour flight using ATR 72, serving four daily flights from Pontianak to Putussibau. The upstream can be reached by car intwo hours. l

Kapuas hulu rivers, wesT KalimanTan • AnugerahTour

&Travel,31 Urip Sumoharjo RD Street, Pontianak, Phone: +62-561-760275

• PTNafaTravel, Nusa Indah II Street, Pontianak, Phone: +62-561-749898

• AntyaTour&Travel,62 Teuku Umar Street, Pontianak, Phone: +62-561-738789

bahoroK river, norTh

sumaTera• NitourInc.,21-E

Prof. H.M. Yamin, Street, Medan, Phone: +62-61-532191

• SeibaTour&Travel, 3-G Bukit Barisan Street, Medan, Phone: +62-61-511950

• AviaInterliner,82 Sisingamangaraja Street, Medan, Phone: +62-61-712426, 766330

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Underwater wonder Photo: Rully Kesuma, Text: Wahyuana Wardoyo

Only in KwatisOre can One Observe whale sharKs swim tO the surface, sOmetimes rubbing their six-tOn bulK On the side Of fishing bOats and even, lOcals claim, teasing the divers. it’s a sea adventure that requires passiOn and plucK.

Kwatisore, Cendrawasih National Park, Papua89

d i v i n gd i v i n g

AFTER two hours of slicing through the waves in the heat of the day at Cenderawasih Bay, our boat—carrying myself and photographer Ruly Kesuma—arrives at the Kali Lemon Resort in Kwatisore, Nabire, Papua. It’s quiet. There is no phone signal. It’s like going back in time. Every now and

then, we hear the chirp of birds, a wild dog’s bark, a rush of wind, and the buzz of cicadas.

A lone eagle and a party of hornbills fly from tree to tree to greet our arrival in the middle of October.

The Cenderawasih Bay National Park is the biggest protected marine park in Indonesia. There are 150 types of coral spread around the shallows of 18 islands big and small. The variety of fish species is astonishing. More than 200 types of fish make the area their home. It is the rich biodiversity of this ‘underwater forest’ that draws visitors from all over. But, of all the fish to be found in the area, the one we’ve come to see is the whale shark, also known as the ‘ghost’ fish.

“Four Kwatisore ghosts have been waiting at the fishing post since morning,” said Yance Henawi, a diving guide from Kali Lemon. He was referring to the Rhincodon typus, known to locals as hiniotanibre (or the ghost fish). “Local fishermen named them that because they often appear out of nowhere, and love to rub their bulk against the fishing boats,” said Ben Gurion Saroy, chief ranger at the Cenderawasih Bay National Park in charge of marine conservation.

As the biggest fish (non-mammalian vertebrate) in the world, the whale shark can be said to look somewhat scary and ghost-like. It can weigh up to as much as nine tons and grow up to 10 meters long. Fishermen in other parts of eastern Indonesia call them the gurano bintang, or star shark, because of their white spots resembling flecks in a night sky.

Yance, a Kwatisore local, said his people consider the ghost fish sacred. Kwatisore has a site they call Tabletop Hill, ascending 200 meters above sea level, on top of which lies a flat rock shaped much like a table. From up there, Kwatisore looks like a whale’s tail. “Living on an island shaped like a whale’s tail makes us believe that Kwatisore is their original home. We are forbidden from eating their meat,” said Yance, as we sit aboard the fishing post, a floating hut in the middle of the sea with a net used by fishermen to make their catch.

Underneath the floating platform, we see whale sharks dart back and forth, hunting for the tiny fish caught in the fishing nets. The whale sharks’ mouths make a sloshing sound as they suck at the nets seeking for loose fish. There are four greyish colored whale sharks freckled with white spots all over their bodies, some four to seven meters long and probably weighing around two to three tons each.

The hairs on my neck stood up. This is the first time

I have seen these giants, the largest non-cetacean animal in the world. For divers, meeting up with one of these whale sharks is a longed-for dream. I obtained that self-same dream in Kwatisore.

The whale sharks’ grinning mouths look frightening. On the other hand, their languid movements in the water make them seem friendly. “As long as they are

Kali Lemon Resort in Cenderawasih Bay National Park, Nabire.

90

Papua

Cenderawasih Bay

not disturbed, they’re not dangerous. Don’t swim near their tails; you could get lashed when they move. Also don’t take anything noise-making, as they have sensitive hearing,” cautioned Bram Muaranaya, who since 2006 has been guiding divers wishing to swim with whale sharks in Kwatisore.

He gets the diving gear ready. “This is base-free

MArinenAtionAl PArk

Eastern Indonesia’s underwater heaven is not only found at Raja Ampat. At the

Cenderawasih Bay National Park, we can find different kinds of underwater wonders,

such as sharks that are more tame than most average fish.

How to get tHere

Nabire can be reached via flights to Ambon, Biak, or Jayapura. Wings Air flies to Ambon, while Biak is serviced by Susi Air. Jayapura has connections with both Merpati Air and Wings Air. By sea, Nabire can be reached by the national Pelni service, with stops

in Ambon, Sorong, Manokwari, Biak, and Jayapura.

The trip from Nabire to Kwatisore takes about two hours by chartered speedboat (about Rp5-6 million one way), leaving

from Nabire port. It’s best to leave in the morning, as the afternoon waves at

Cenderawasih Bay can be rough.

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diving, so the buoyancy has to be good,” said Rudy Setiawan, the resident dive master. The warning made me nervous. I’m used to diving down to about 20-35 meters, but here the sea goes down to depths of 50-100 meters. My heart started to thump hard.

With a backroll, I jumped off the boat. Just my luck, the underwater currents were strong right then. Each time I tried to get close to one of the whale sharks, I get dragged away. On the second dive, the situation was calmer. I dove down to a depth of three meters and held onto one of the post’s columns. This position allowed me to take photographs freely and observe the whale sharks darting here and there from up close.

The biggest of the whale sharks was six meters while the smallest about three meters. Theoretically, whale sharks are born about 80 centimeters and grow an average of 20 centimeters a year. I deduced these were about 20 to 26 years old. They have wide mouths and can suck up anything. Finally getting close to one, I placed a fist near its mouth. The suction felt incredibly strong. Everything in its vicinity can be pulled in without mercy. “If something goes in that doesn’t taste like food, they usually spit it out,” said Bram. Floating high above one of the whale shark’s tail, my total 1.68 centimeters came to about a quarter of the animal's length, which comes to about as large as a Jakarta Metro Mini bus.

As of last year, the Cenderawasih Bay National Park, in cooperation with the World Wide Fund for Nature (WWF) Indonesia has monitored the whale sharks with radio frequency identification (RFID) and satellite tags. The tags enable observation of migratory and behavioral patterns of each whale shark. “Our survey showed a total of 70 sharks in the Kwatisore area. We’ve equipped 50 of them with RFID tags since June 2012, 14 have been given satellite tags since May 2011, and eight more since April this year,” said Beny Ahadian Noor, the WWF-Indonesia project manager.

The results? Several were found to have moved as far as Donsol, Philippines. For two weeks, the whale sharks swam at a depth of 70 meters. The distance between Donsol and Kwatisore is about 2,500 kilometers. Swimming there and back in a fortnight meant they traveled at an average speed of 350 kilometers a day. It’s not clear why they traveled such a distance. Scientists need more time to get the answers about these singular beasts. One is why have only two females been found in Kwatisore? Most wild herds have more females. Also, in many other places, whale shark females are not known to swim to the surface. Why do they surface in Kwatisore? Why are there only youthful whale sharks? Where are the adults? Are they in Kwatisore only to hunt, or do they reside permanently? Where do they breed? What do their juveniles look like?

Best tiMeto go

All year round, but especially in November.

diving oPerAtors

Kali Lemon Resort (Rp2.5

million per person per

day, both for diving and

snorkeling).

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The ‘underwater forest’.

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wHAle sHArks

Whale sharks are actually huge sharks that look like whales. They

eat plankton, made up of microscopic organisms and

plants. They are the biggest fish in the world, and tend to

inhabit warm waters.

tHe AverAge wHAle sHArk :Length: 10 meters

(similar to two and a half cars)Weight:

 Life expectancy:70-100 years

Width of mouth:1.5 meters

Number of teeth: 350

Whale sharks try to eat the fish caught by fishermen.

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» Bird-Watching: Bukit Soa, about 10 minutes by speedboat from Kali Lemon Resort, offers old-growth forests inhabited by many kinds of birds, such as the cendrawasih (bird of paradise), cockatoo, hornbill, maleo, and parrots.

» Suebu Animal Market, Kwatisore: From about 10pm until morning, the market displays catch from hunting in the wild: forest boars, deer, cassowaries and snakes.

» Bukit Batu Meja: The highest place in Kwatisore offers the best views of the surrounding landscape.

Cruise sHiP

Seahorse (www.indocruise.

com)Damai I

(www.damai.liveaboarddiving.

net)Damai II

(www.damai.liveaboarddiving.

net)Grand

Komodo (www.komodoalordive.

com)Putiraja (www.putiraja.com)

Average cost is about US$375 per

person per dayDiving certification:

All levels

While scientists are hard at work researching the presence of whale sharks in Kwatisore, in the past two years visitors have been on the increase to see them. “Many tourists come with a diving liveboard,” said Casandra Tania, a WWF-Indonesia researcher.

When I did my dive, I met divers on a Seahorse trip. “We have been to Kwatisore three times this month, bringing 16 people, which is as many as the boat will hold,” said Joe Bates, a UK national, the operations director who speaks fluent Indonesian. Joe is familiar with the fishermen. Three of his guests with underwater photo equipment were busy taking shots of two beautiful models with the whale sharks. “We brought photographers for Ocean Geographic magazine,” said Txus Reiriz, the Spanish-born owner of Seahorse. The group paid the fishermen Rp10 million for their three-day shoot. “We pay them so that they don’t go fishing.” said Joe Bates. “This is the only place for it in the world. In places such as Australia or Thailand, it’s very difficult to get close to whale sharks. They live deep down and rarely surface. Sometimes, we have to use a helicopter to look for them. If we find some, we have only 5-10 minutes with them, so tourists have to swim quickly to see them up close. But here the sharks are visible all year round, and seem to want to interact with humans. This is what we came for,” says Txuz Reiriz. l

Kali Lemon Resort.

otHer tHingsto do

inforMAtion Center

Tourism OfficePapua Province Culture and Tourism BoardAbepura Main Road, Kotaraja, Jayapura, Papua

Travel AgentNatrabu Tours & TravelBatukarang Street 1st, Jayapura, PapuaFax.: +62-967 36613

Limbunan Tours & Travel68 Argapura Raya Street, Jayapura, PapuaPhone: +62-967 35430, +62-967 35498Fax.: +62-967 35377Travel Conhtt Overseas 39 Pantai Kelapa Street, Jayapura, PapuaPhone: +62-967 34063

Advindo Tours & Travel22 A Yani Street, PO. Box.

1482, Jayapura, PapuaPhone: +62-967 31403, +62-967 82805Fax.: +62-967 35058Telex: 76 1 2 1 AVINDO IA

Duta Baliem Travel17 Nindya Street, Jayapura, PapuaPhone: +62-967 33583

Papua Adventure T & T (Papua), Mr. Gantang (+62817364243, +6281344628586), e-mail: info@papuaadventure.com, info@papuaholidays.com

Honey Tour, Endang Gunawan (+628176941777), Zikri (+6281802156188), Herdi (+6281995194009)

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Sangihe and Talaud, North Sulawesi

dweLLInG oF tHe GodS

on the Pacific Ocean, between the islands of Sulawesi and Mindanao, small islands are lining up. Among those small islands are Sangihe and Talaud.

Due to a land expansion in 2000, Sangihe and Talaud separated; each became a regency of the North Sulawesi Province.

Still, underneath the blue sea of Sangihe and Talaud astonishing habitats of corals and diverse range of fish remain.

Not only that, divers can also experience the touch of a submarine volcano. In the waters of Mahagetang Island, about eight meters down the surface, divers can race with the bubbles bursting out of the crater rocks.

The sea is home to two volcanic peaks; evident by the warm, 37 to 38-degree-Celcius water.

The Sangihe locals call the volcano Banua Wuhu. They believe that Banua is the dwelling of the gods, who will be wrathful if humans damage the sea. Therefore, a traditional ceremony is held annually at the end of January, where local elders will dive into the sea, presenting it with gold, which they place in a long underwater tunnel.

Since these islands are located at the crossing

• PTAlexandraDinamika, Dr Sutomo Street 12, Manado, Phone: +62-431-868800, e-mail: alextour@telkom.net

• NatrabuTours&Travel, Srapung Street, Manado, Phone: +62-43164515

• BuanaMinaesaWisata, Sam Ratulangi Street, XIX/12A, Manado, Phone: +62-431-862700, 859174, e-mail: info@buanatravel.com

sAngiHe & tAlAud

• AxellExpress/Toyosyn, Sam Ratulangi Street 2/19, Manado, Phone: +62-431-876868, 935, 878, e-mail: tojosyn@indosatnet.id

• MapangetTour&Travel(Manado), Mrs. Ima (+6281356622263), e-mail: info@mapanget-tours.com

• HoneyTour, Endang Gunawan (+628176941777), Zikri (+6281802156188), Herdi (+6281995194009)

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of the Indian Ocean and the volcanic lane, divers are advised to dive between April and November to avoid the west wind, which blows between December and March. The west wind stirs an underwater current, causing swift water surface.

The Sangihe Islands can be reached by speedboat from Manado, the capital of North Sulawesi. The ride will take approximately 10 hours. l

Lembeh Strait, North Sulawesi

Into tHe MUd

lembeh Strait is conveniently located not far from the center of the city. In fact, it only takes 90 minutes to reach the strait from Manado, the North Sulawesi capital. But despite its proximity to the city, it is yet to be swarmed by tourists, making it a perfect getaway.

Different from Bunaken, the sands of the Lembeh Strait is black, explaining why diving in the strait is referred to as muck diving. The soot at the bottom of the sea helps care for the sea’s rich biodiversity. There are 89 diving points here; each with different topography and features diverse inhabitants.

There is no wave at Lembeh, because of its location that is far from the vast ocean. So, when Bunaken is hit by strong tides, Lembeh will not be touched by the slightest splash of wave. Calm sea provides divers with safety. Many resorts along the coast also offer diving packages. l

Anambas, the Riau Islands

dIVInG wItH tUrtLeS

The Durai Island is only one of the 238 islands spreading across the waters of Anambas in the Riau Islands. It is not that big of an island, but here is where turtles nest their eggs; here is also where divers can dive along with them.

Anambas offers so much through some of the divers’ favorite spots, which include Batu Katoaka, Tokong Malangbiru and the Seven Skies wreck. The latter, a tank that sank in the waters of Tioman Island in 1969, has now become a magnet for marine lives. Lucky divers may find whale sharks here.

Another appealing spot is the corals in the lagoon, formed by a cluster of five islands that are Bawah, Sanggah, Murbah, Lidi and Elang. When the tide is low, sand dunes and corals stand out, as if connecting the five islands. From the surface of the lagoon, we can see the fish swarm into white sandy bottom.

Airlines departing from Tanjung Pinang and Batam serve flights to Matak Island, Anambas six times a week. If you choose water transportation, Pelni and perintis ships from Tanjung Pinang dock twice a month at Tarempa Port in the capital of Anambas. l

• TulipIndahTour&Travel, Sam Ratulangi Street 178, Manado, Phone: +62-431-63700

• BuanaMinaesaWisata, Sam Ratulangi Street, XIX/12A, Manado, Phone: +62-431-862700, 859174, e-mail: info@buanatravel.com

• MapangetTour&Travel(Manado),Mrs. Ima (+6281356622263), e-mail: info@mapanget-tours.com

• HoneyTour, Endang Gunawan (+628176941777), Zikri (+6281802156188), Herdi (+6281995194009)

leMBeH strAit

AnAMBAs, tHe riAu islAnd

• AutoMasTour&Travel, Complex Intan Sari Building, Sekupang, Phone: +62-778-322589

• MayangSariTravel, Imam Bonjol Street, Batam, Phone: +62-778-458427, 456238

• BatamasDutaTravel, Raja Ali Haji Street, Lubuk Baja, Phone: +62-778-322799

• RiauHolidayTravel, Pellantar II Street 53, Tanjung Pinang, Phone: +62-771-21812

• NetraServiceJayaTravel,Komp. Wisma Kartika, MT Haryono Street, tanjung Pinang, Phone: +62-778-21882

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Wakatobi, Southeast Sulawesi

drIFtInG tHroUGH tHe CUrrent

wakatobi is composed of four main islands: Wangi-wangi, Kaledupa, Tomia and Binongko; each has its own characteristic. Waha at Wangi-wangi, for example, offers a type of reefs with the majority of its contours looking like a wall.

In Kaledupa, on the other hand, groupers and snappers can be found easily. If you dive approaching or after the full moon, you may get to witness snappers spawning at 25-40 meters below the water surface. The Hoga Island near Kaledupa also offers an attractive diving location.

The coral fish around Tomia are more diverse and abundant. The sensation here is to swim with hundreds and even thousands of fish. This is also where table corals spread.

Binongko is the only island facing the Flores Sea; as others are facing the Banda Sea. Because of its geographical differences, most of the corals in this southernmost island are soft and long, resembling a rope.

Another of Wakatobi’s attractions is its atoll, a ring-shaped coral reef. Stretching as far as 48 kilometers, the Kaledupa Atoll is one of the longest atolls in the world. During low tides, the atoll emerges to the surface, looking like an island of its own.

Part of the Wakatobi National Park, these waters have strong currents, allowing drift diving – a type of diving following a current – and saving our energy. l

Derawan Island, East Kalimantan

danCInG wItH JeLLYFISH

three hours after our departure from the Tengkayu Port, Tarakan, we finally arrived at Derawan Island, an island that neighbors with three other beautiful islands: Maratua, Kakaban and Sangalaki. Asia’s largest habitat of green turtles, you may witness giant turtles swimming freely and Philippine turtles laying

wAkAtoBi, soutHeAst sulAwesi

• ViolaTour&Travel, Mayjend Sutoyo Street, Tipulu, Kendari, Phone: +62-401-324840, e-mail: violacalista_utama@yahoo.com

• PatunoResortWakatobi,Patuno Wangi Wangi Street, Wakatobi, Phone: +62-811-4002221

• SulawesiExperience, Dahlia Street Komp. Pesona Taman Dahlia, Kendari, Phone: +62-411-5737779, website: www.sulawesi-experience.com

• TomiaDiveCenter, Tomia Island, Wakatobi, Phone: +62-81686195, e-mail: tomiadivecenter@gmailcom, website: www.tomiadivecenter.com

derAwAn islAnd,

eAst kAliMAntAn

• PTMylaTour, 6 Kemakmuran Street, Samarinda, East Kalimantan, Phone: +62-541 7730 146, e-mail: myla.tour@yahoo.co.id

• BorneoTour&Travel(Balikpapan), Mr. Joko (+62811545793), e-mail: tborneo@indo.net.id

• HoneyTour, Endang Gunawan (+628176941777), Zikri (+6281802156188), Herdi (+6281995194009)

98

eggs under the floating resort. Other than turtles, a variety of colorful fish, corals and marine plants spread below the wooden dock near the resort.

One and a half hours away from Derawan is the Kakaban Island. Amid the dense Kakaban forest you can find a brackish lake. Surrounded by mangroves, the lake becomes the habitat of stingless jellyfish. As you swim further down, you can find more upside down jellyfish (cassiopea), inviting you to ‘dance’ with them.

This natural uniqueness can be found only in so few a place in the world; two of which are the Kakaban Island in Indonesia and the Micronesia Island in the Pacific’s southeast region. Other than the lake, the underwater charm of Kakaban Island is a tourists’ favorite. There are eight diving locations available. l

Padaido, Papua

a naPoLeon enCoUnter

raja Ampat in Sorong and Kwatisore in Nabire are not the only sensational diving spots in Papua. There is also Padaido in Biak. While Raja Ampat is known for its biodiversity and Kwatisore for its whale sharks, Padaido is known for cave diving. Cave Wundi, as well as the wreckage of the Second World War’s

planes and ships, can be found here, presenting divers with another diving option: wreck diving.

Cave Wundi is located not far from the Wundi Island, one of the white sandy islands amid the Padaido cluster of islands. From the Tip Top Port in Biak, it takes around three hours by speedboat to get there. The cave’s entrance is located 12 meters below the surface of the water. A two-by-one-meter hole at the cave’s mouth is the divers’ entry into the cave. Inside, we may swim along the 18-meter tunnel, which features several unexplored chambers. Sunlight pierces through the tunnel of the cave; but in the middle, it is pitch dark.

A napoleon fish and a giant turtle inhabit the cave. The 40-centimeter-wide turtle usually can be found near the mouth of the cave; while the napoleon swims in the cave’s basin. Coral and schooling fish adorn the area along the basin.

According to Erick Farwas, a diving guide from Biak Diving who has mastered up to 29 diving spots around Padaido, the Padaido waters is suitable for any divers at any levels. l

Live on Board Komodo Island, East Nusa Tenggara

SHarKS oF CaStLe roCK

the cluster of islands surrounding the Komodo Island not only offers the beauty of the ancient animal, but also a mesmerizing view under water. And what better way to enjoy it than to live on board a boat.

Last year in September – along with the Seven Wonders team – we got on board

of the Lataran Komodo, a pinisi boat. Departing from Labuhan Bajo, the closest diving location is the Sebayor Island; reachable within one hour. The area around this island was a suitable start for an adventure that would take us to the 50 diving spots around the Komodo Island: the current is not as strong, the corals are not too sharp.

At the northeast region of the Komodo Island, the most popular diving spot is Castle Rock. The

PAdAido, PAPuA

• NatrabuTours&Travel,Batukarang Street 1st, Jayapura, Papua, Phone: +62-967- 35613

• GandaIrjayaTravel, Imam Bonjol Street, Biak, Phone: +62-961-21616

• PapuaAdventureT&T(Papua), Mr. Gantang (+62817364243, +6281344628586), e-mail: info@papuaadventure.com, info@papuaholidays.com

• HoneyTour, Endang Gunawan (+628176941777), Zikri (+6281802156188), Herdi (+6281995194009)

koModo islAnd,

eAst nusA tenggArA

• GetrudisTours, Soekarno Hatta Street, Phone: +62-0385- 41373

• ManumadiTours,Soekarno Hatta Street, Labuan Bajo, Phone: +62-0385-41457

• PT.KhatulistiwaNusantaraHijau,Soekarno Hatta Street, Labuan Bajo, Phone: +62- 0385- 41900

• FirelliTour&Travel,Mataram, Mr. Didik (+62-431-811119 & +62812125254243), e-mail: firelli-tour@centrin.net.id

• HoneyTour,Endang Gunawan (+628176941777), Zikri (+6281802156188), Herdi (+6281995194009)

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100

Komodo Island ww

w.s

hu

tter

sto

ck

.co

m

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20-meter plateau is the most popular spot to see coral sharks or dolphins. If you would like to see stingrays, you should move to the southwest area, at Manta Alley.

The best visibility with perfect sunlight falls between November and January. l

Raja Ampat Islands, West Papua

MonStroUS FISH and towerInG reeFS

Aulia, an environmental activist, saw five of these monsters approaching him, as he was diving in the waters of Tanjung Makwoy in the Raja Ampat Islands, West Papua. As told by his friends, he quickly ducked, taking refuge at the bottom of the waters. This, people believe, is the

way to repel sharks. His heart beat through his chest. However,

after a safe 6-meter distance between Aulia and these black-finned, white-lined carnivores were maintained, they disappeared. Whale sharks are not ferocious.

Shark is the icon of Raja Ampat. From a 30-meter distance, it is common for a diver like Aulia to see the sharks approaching, observing then swimming away.

The blue sea in the waters of Batanta Island is crystal clear. From the surface we can see towering reefs: the shoots, burned by the sun, grow over the water surface; the roots buried deep at the bottom of the sea.

In the Raja Ampat waters, there are four islands: Waigeo, Misool, Slawati and Batanta to the west of Papua Island’s Bird’s Head (Vogelkoop). Coral fragments housing fish nests spread across the bottom of the waters. Plenty of wall reefs decorate the topography of the bottom of the sea. l

rAjA AMPAt

islAnds, west PAPuA

• MakmurThomasTravel, A. Yani Street 1/14, Sorong, Phone: +62-967-33593

• CahayaAlamAgung,Kota Baru Street 39, Manokwari, Phone: +62-96221153, 21133

• PapuaAdventureT&T(Papua), Mr. Gantang (+62817364243, +6281344628586), e-mail: info@papuaadventure.com, info@papuaholidays.com

• HoneyTour,Endang Gunawan (+628176941777), Zikri (+6281802156188), Herdi (+6281995194009)

HukurilA, MAluku

• Natrabu,Anthony Rhebok Street 27, Ambon, Maluku, Phone: +62-911-43938

• TujuhJayaTravelAgent,6th Kopra Street 142-143, Ambon, Maluku, Phone: +62-911-52342

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Hukurila, Maluku

CoLorS oF tHe Sea CaVe

diverse marine flora and fauna live in an underwater cave at Hukurila, South Leitimur District, south of the city of Ambon, Maluku. The banks of the island that faces the Banda Sea is filled with corals – the kind of typology that signals the presence of many coral

walls and underwater caves. Coral walls with several formations make up

the cave entrance, which is located 15 meters below the water surface. Passing the entrance, we can enjoy the view of various corals and groups of fish that swim between the corals.

Diving further down to the depth of 20 meters, there is a giant cave, Hukurila. Here lies soft corals and unique, jumbo-sized colorful marine organisms, like the nudibranch and the four-colored scorpion fish. l

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AFP PHOTO MALAYSIA OUT

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The Whispering LeavesPhoto: Aditia Noviansyah, Text: Qaris Tajudin

The Kayan MenTarang naTional ParK consisTs of PriMary foresT which haPPens To be The second oldesT and biggesT in souTheasT asia. Travelers can sTay overnighT in The foresT, TracKing iTs lush and ThicK greenery, fish in The clear waTer or jusT gaze aT The low-flying hawKs.

Kayan Mentarang National Park, North Kalimantan

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f o r e s tf o r e s t

Perhaps this is what the environment looked like in the time of adam and eve.

The hills and valleys are so green. half of it is covered in grass, 20 centimeters tall. here, deer and wild oxen happily feed together. The other half is a tangle of huge trees. From deep within the thicket comes the echoing calls of

wild monkeys.peacocks cry out with shrill voices. also heard is

the helmeted hornbill (Rhinoplax vigil), a bird whose beauty is revered by the Dayak tribe people. Its flight is emulated in Dayak traditional dances, while its feathers are used to make magnificent headdresses. The bird symbolizes a higher and sacred ground, where the deities dwell.

These beautiful hills and valleys are found in Long Tua, Malinau, North Kalimantan. along with photographer aditya Noviansyah and adventure specialist Dody Johanjaya, I visited the place last month after four days of travelling on the Bahau river, a waterway with 90 percent of its banks enclosed by thick forest.

The grassy fields of Long Tua (long is the local word for river) are located in Kayan Mentarang, a national park covering 1.35 million hectares. The land ranges from 200 meters to 2,500 meters above sea level, making it home to a great diversity of flora and fauna.

The huge swathe of protected land, mostly located in Malinau regency but also reaching Nunukan regency, was named a national park in 1996. Flanked by the Kayan river to the south and the Mentarang river to the north, the national park is the biggest area of protected primary and secondary forests in southeast asia.

Kalimantan

Malinau Regency

Kayan Mentarang National Park

aside from its forest density, unparalleled by any other forest in Kalimantan, the park also boasts great diversity. Based on research by the Word Wildlife Fund (WWF), there are more than 70 species of mammals living there—including wild oxen, deer, antelopes and wild cats. There are 210 species of birds, including several eagles that we often saw spreading their wings above the trees along the river’s edge.

oN a scorching afternoon, we arrive at apau ping, the furthest village upstream on the Bahau river. It is one of the villages located inside the Kayan Mentarang National park. There is no guesthouse in this village of about 60 wooden houses, so we were invited to stay overnight at the home of

village head Yusuf apuy.

106

Two hours after our arrival, the sitting room at Pak Yusuf’s house is full. One of the visitors is Ding Njuk, 28. On his arm is a playboy tattoo, a souvenir from Malaysia, where he worked for a timber company. Ding is willing to accompany us on a trip through the forests of Long Tua in two days time. he first has to repair his parent’s home.

Two days later, as planned, we leave for Long Tua on two ketinting, a three-meter-long boat powered by a small engine. aside from Ding, we are accompanied by Dan salo, rodes Jan and Titus Lawing. They are Kenyah people, of the biggest Dayak tribe in Malinau, except for Titus. he’s a member of the punan tribe.

Before reaching Long Tua, we turn off at a branch of the Berau river. about 15 minutes later, we have already found a peaceful spot. The 20-meter-wide river is sheltered by towering trees. The water moves slowly, with almost no current. With the engine switched off, we can only hear the rustling of leaves.

Ding doesn’t wait long. armed with a fishing spear that he made himself, he dives straight into the water. One minute, two minutes, and bang! On the third minute, he proudly pulls out a fish as big as his thigh that has been pierced through the belly. he rests for a moment before he jumps back in, swims among the roots of the trees and emerges with a floundering fish.

I swim out quite far, toward some rocks sticking out in shallow water, to enjoy a moment of solitude. The water cascades over the rocks, lit by the bright midday sun.

an hour later, we wrap up our fun on the Berau river and return to Bahau. as it’s already lunchtime,

we pull over to the embankment. Ding cleans a padek fish with scales the size of rp1,000 coins, Dan cuts bamboo to steam the underbelly of the fish, rodes cuts up wet sticks to skewer the fish, and Titus gathers dry wood to make a fire. half an hour later, the fruits of their labor disappear into our bellies.

It’s late afternoon when we reach Long Tua. There’s no need to set up a tent, as there’s a wooden hut donated by WWF that we can stay in. The hut is well equipped, with kitchen utensils and thin mattresses.

at about 5pm, Titus asks me and aditya to help him look for dinner. he picks up his hunting rifle and heads into the forest. at first, we’re able to keep up because Titus sticks to the trail. We start to get left behind when he goes off into the dense jungle, pushing past tall trees and thick undergrowth, shuffling along the edge of a cliff, tramping over muddy ground and crossing a small stream.

he seems to walk aimlessly. We wonder if he will be able to remember the way back to the hut. But we trust his instincts.

as it turns out he is following a trail left by wild boars, the tracks made visible by their hoofs pressing into the damp earth. “There are lots of tracks, but the boars are nowhere to be seen. This is a new trail,” Titus says, pointing to a well-defined print in the mud.

aside from looking for boar tracks, we are also keeping an eye out for prints and fresh droppings left by wild oxen and deer.

Our hunt reaches its end at the bank of the Bahau river. “Let’s rest for a bit,” Titus says, seeing that aditya and I are drenched in sweat.

soon after, we hear a ‘tok-tok-tok’...and then

How to Get tHere

If you want to enjoy the vistas of Bahai River and Kayan forest, you can fly direct to Malinau, then take a connecting flight by light aircraft to Long Alango or Long Pujungan. The journey to Apau Ping can be continued by a ketinting boat. The flight schedule changes often, so you may have to wait up to two weeks to return.

If you want to enjoy the river before heading into the Kayan Mentarang National Park, you can alight at Tarakan, and then take a speedboat to Tanjung Selor (1-2 hours). A connecting speedboat continues to Long Bia (3 hours). Early in the morning you can continue on to Long Pujungan (8 hours). The next day, take another connection to Long Alango (3 hours) or travel direct to Apau Ping (6 hours). The total journey will take 3-4 days.

Fogs descend in Kayan Mentarang.

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tHe Best time to GoIt’s best to avoid visiting Kayan Mentarang National Park during the wet season. The forest can become too muddy and will be full of leeches. The grass in the fields at Long Tua will also be high, leaving few attractions as the deer and oxen will be in hiding.

How mucH Does it cost?

It is cheapest to travel by plane. A flight on a small aircraft from Malinau to Long Pujungan or Long Alango will cost Rp750,000 to Rp1 million. The cost of a homestay is Rp150,000-400,000 a night. From Apau Ping to Long Tua, it’s necessary to rent a ketinting (Rp2 million) and pay a guide (Rp150,000 per day).

Fuel is expensive upstream (Rp16,000-21,000 per liter for Premium fuel), making the cost of a boat trip more expensive the further you head up river. Prices fluctuate greatly. An average trip will cost Rp20-30 million per person, including accommodation, local guides and food.

wHat to BrinG» Sunscreen (especially if

you will be travelling by boat).

» Waterproof bag » Quick-drying pants

and shirts (you can find these at an adventure store)

» Rain jacket» Life jacket (you need to

bring your own as they are not provided on traditional boats)

» Plenty of cash (no ATMs and boat rental is expensive)

into tHe forest

silence. The noise starts again: ‘tok-tok-tok’. “Do you hear that?” Titus asks. We heard the noise from across the river alright, but we don’t know what it is. For people like us who are unfamiliar with the forest, the noise could come from anything. perhaps it’s a woodpecker, or a monkey hitting a stick against the hollow of a tree. It could even be a carpenter at work, for all we know. silly guesses, because we have no idea what it could be.

But not Titus. For him, the sound was like a call to dinner. he takes off his shirt, picks up his rifle and stands on a rock, looking out over the river. he thinks for a moment before crossing over the neck-deep water.

Once on the other side, he pauses yet again before launching into the thick of the jungle. Five minutes later...bang! a shot is heard. Just one, and Titus comes out from behind the trees with a plump female boar. Most of the boar in this area are sus barbatus, or bearded boar, and this one does have a long beard. The ‘tok-tok’ noise we heard came from her as she rapped on the trunk of a tree to make a piece of fruit fall.

We arrive at the camp at dusk. Ding has already brought another fish for those of us who don’t eat pork—or boar.

HuNTINg, wood-gathering and land-clearing for agriculture all takes place inside the Kayan Mentarang National park. But not for commercial interests. The forest is only exploited enough for its people to live on. Because they depend on the forest for their livelihoods, the local people there don’t

want to destroy it. “For the Dayak people, the forest

rP

Rice barn in Long Alango village.

information center

Tourism OfficeEast Kalimantan & North Kalimantan Province Tourism Office22 Jend. Sudirman Street, Samarinda, East Kalimantanwebsite: www.dispar.kaltim.go.id

Travel AgentPT Nusantara WisataKemangi Komp. GTL (Karpotek) Kav. PP.13A Street, Samarinda, East Kalimantan

Phone: +62-811 556 486, +62-541 273 666; Fax.: +62-541 273 427Contact: Mr. I Bagus Putrae-mail: reservasi_nw@yahoo.co.id

Dody Adventurewebsite: www.dodyadventure.com

PT Myla Tour6 Kemakmuran Street, Samarinda, East KalimantanPhone: +62-541 7730 146; Fax.: +62-541 771697

Contact: Mr. Agus Noor Ihsane-mail: myla.tour@yahoo.co.id

Borneo Tour & Travel (Balikpapan), Mr. Joko (+62811545793), e-mail: tborneo@indo.net.id

Honey Tour, Endang Gunawan (+628176941777), Zikri (+6281802156188), Herdi (+6281995194009)

108

represents their soul. Without the forest, there would be no Dayak people,” said Cristina eghenter, an Italian-born anthropologist at WWF whose doctorate studies dealt with Dayak communities.

One example of Dayak forest management is the way they cultivate land. First they clear the forest. every family owns two to three plots, but only one is used at a time. The others are left to be reforested. every five to 10 years, when a plot is no longer fertile for farming, they return to a reforested plot. The used plot is left to become forest once again. “What do we need big fields for? We farm only to feed ourselves. It’s not possible to sell the rice grain, because everyone here has their own crop. To sell it in the city, the transportation would be too expensive for it to be worthwhile,” says Ding.

While some areas are set aside for farming and regrowth, others are off limits altogether. Certain areas of the forest are known as tana ulen, or forbidden land. These parts of the forest may not be used for farming, hunting, or any other form of

exploitation. “Traditional law plays an important role in maintaining forest sustainability there,” eghner said. anyone found shooting deer or boars in Long Tua faces a fine of rp10 million.

One important figure who guards both tradition and sustainable forestry there is anyie apuy. anyie is the traditional chief of upstream Bahau. On our journey to apau ping, we had the chance to stay at his home in Long alango. anyie received a Kalpataru award (for exceptional work in the field of environment) in 2009 for his services in protecting the forests of Kayan Mentarang. “Without these forests, our traditional societies would die,” said anyie, now 70 years old.

every year, anyie gathers customary leaders from several villages to evaluate traditional regulations, adding new rules if needed. at the end of last month, in Long alango, they gathered to discuss the plans to build a road in the area. The development is seen as both a blessing and a threat.

Kayan Mentarang is very remote, located on the edge of Indonesia’s region bordering Malaysia. The only way to get there is via a small river with rapids. The Long alango airstrip, which is overrun with grass, can only accommodate small aircrafts, with a maximum of about a dozen people. The connecting road is a dirt track.

With conditions like these, no coal or logging companies are interested in investing in the area. It would be almost impossible to transport logged timber down the river. But this could all change if a road is built cutting through the forest.

aT dawn, when it’s still dark, aditya, Ding and I go back into the forest. Our destination is the open field where the deer and oxen are grazing. The new sun rises as we climb atop a ridge overlooking the field. although the sky is no longer black, the sun has not yet reached us, blocked

by a taller hill behind us. Nature is but a silhouette. But Ding can already recognise many of the shadows flickering before us. “Look, there’s an ox grazing,” he says, pointing to a silhouette on the nearby hill. “That one’s a deer,” he adds, turning to a shadow leaping about in the valley.

at first, we can’t clearly see where he’s pointing. But after an hour, our surroundings turn from black-and-white to full colour. We can see white-tailed oxen grazing, antelope and deer gambolling in the field, and the bright green of the trees and grasses. The sunlight not only brings out the colors but also the animals into the picture.

On this morning, the sun warms up the whole valley. It reaches the top of the hill before the fog has cleared from the valleys between the hilltops. In the lower valley, behind the trees, the Long Tua river flows on. l

information on Kayan

mentaranG

Area: 1,360,500 hectares

Mammals: 100 species (15 endemic

species) Primates: 8

speciesBirds: More

than 310 species (including 28 that are endemic to

Kalimantan)Population:

25,000, from various Dayak tribes: Kenyah,

Punan, Lun Daye, and Lun

Bawang.Named a

national park in 1996

Location: Malinau

regency, North Kalimantan

Climate: 16-30° CelsiusAverage

rainfall: 3,100 millimeters per

year Elevation: 200-

2,558 meters above sea levelCoordinates:

1°59’-4°24’ LU, 114°49’-116°16’

BT

Last week we received bad news. Rodes Jan died in a TNI (Indonesian military) helicopter crash incident. Rodes—who was my foster brother because his mother, Mak Awing, took me as a foster child—was in the helicopter in the flight trip near the Malaysian border to help the troops build their new post.

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f o r e s t

Cikaniki-Citalahab, West Java

eXOTiC shaDes OF The FOresT c

ool breeze immediately fills the air the minute you step into the Cikaniki-Citalahab tropical rainforest. The chilly serenity feels even more complete with the hundreds of tall, lush trees lining up the path. Rasamala, puspa, beunying and kimokla – all stand closely together; providing pedestrians with cool shades of

green lushes. Cikaniki-Citalahab is a tropical forest in the Mount

halimun salak National park, which has fast become a tourists’ area. Located at the border of sukabumi and Bogor, the forest is still filled with natural lush despite its location that is adjacent to a colonial Dutch tea plantation and a local settlement.

ciKaniKi-citalaHaB, west Java

• Aerotravel(Satriavi), Asia Africa Street 81, Bandung, phone: +62-22-4203657

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• Vayatour, Sunda Street 42, bandung, Phone: +62-22-4261739

110

Considering its strategic location near the country’s capital city, it is no surprise that the forest has become a nature tourism spot for nature lovers from Jakarta, Bandung and other nearby areas. Not only local tourists, the place is starting to become a magnet for foreign visitors. “There are a lot of tourists from the Netherlands,” says suryana, manager of Citalahab Central, a housing complex that leases accommodation for visitors.

as many as 14 houses in this tourism village are open for rentals with affordable rate. In suryana’s house, for instance, you need to spend only rp 75,000 per night for a room with two beds if you’re a local, while foreigners pay rp 150,000. By adding rp 75,000, you will receive meals and snacks three times a day. Throw in another rp 100,000 per day and you will get yourself a personal tour guide.

Cikaniki-Citalahab offers a wide variety of tourism activities, from trekking and exploring the forest to snapping pictures of the beautiful sunsets in the tea plantation. While enjoying your trek, you can stop by a number of cascading waterfalls or just simply immerse yourself in the surrounding trees, bugs or exotic birds. If you are lucky, you may even get to meet the Javanese gibbons, langurs or surili – three types of tree-swinging primates.

If your idea of fun is to travel with a group of friends or families, there is a camping site worth checking out. Local citizens who run the tourism programs here are currently developing a 2-hectare camping ground, expanding the existing area. l

Wasur National Park, Merauke

inDOnesia’s OWn serengeTi

the myriad of flora and fauna found here has earned the Wasur National park the nickname “Indonesia’s very own serengeti”. serengeti is a massive, world renowned national park in Tanzania, africa famous for its biodiversity. Located in Merauke, Indonesia’s easternmost corner, Wasur – officially declared as a

national park in 1990 –stretches to a whopping 4,138 square kilometers.

Muhammad abdul syah, a photographer from Titik Nol Community, who frequents Wasur, said the national park is a highly appealing tourism object with a wide range of activities to choose from. If you are into cultural tourism, there are several Kanum tribal villages that you can visit. “The local tribe’s customs of hunting and gathering is very interesting to learn about,” he enthused.

however, if you are up for a tougher challenge, you can try visiting the rawa Biru Village that houses Merauke’s largest natural springs. according to abdul, by cruising along Wasur, you can reach rawa Biru in just one hour. Visiting at night will not be a problem since the national park is open 24 hours a day. l

wasur national

ParK, merauKe

• NatrabuTours&Travel,Batukarang Street 1st, Jayapura, Papua, Phone: +62-967- 35613

• LimbunanTours&Travel,Argapura Raya No. 68, Jayapura, Papua, Phone: +62-967 35430, 35498

• TravelConhttOverseas, Pantai Kelapa No. 39 Street, Jayapura, Papua, Phone: +62-967 34063

• PapuaAdventureT&T(Papua), Mr. Gantang (+62817364243, +6281344628586), e-mail: info@papuaadventure.com, info@papuaholidays.com

• HoneyTour,Endang Gunawan (+628176941777), Zikri (+6281802156188), Herdi (+6281995194009)

111

f o r e s t

Mount Tompotika Forest, Central Sulawesi

maLeO’s nesTing grOunD

Does the idea of watching the nearly-extinct Maleo birds laying eggs at night sound appealing to you? Well, now you can see it for yourself in the forest of Mount Tompotika in Central sulawesi; near the Taima Village to be more exact. The only challenge, however, is access. From Makassar, you need to fly

to Luwuk, Banggai District, where you have to rent a local’s car to get to the location. Driving takes approximately one hour. Then, you need to trek the forest.

The location of this 200-square-meter conservation area is considerably far and secluded from the city. Djoko Iskandar, the head of Tompotika Conservation alliance Foundation, suggested that we get assistance from a tour guide. since there are only 10 maleo birds in the conservation, you will need to keep your distance when you spot one to ensure minimal disruption.

Why at night? according to Djoko, night is the most secure time for the birds to lay eggs. Naturally, you will need to spend a night in the area to watch this rare moment; but there are still no hotels or resorts

in the forest at the moment. Djoko said tourists may stay at a local’s house; but with the consequence of not being able to take baths due to water scarcity in the area.

One thing for sure, there is no fee charged to watch the beauty of Maleo birds. additionally, this tourism spot is also home to turtles and burung gosong, a type of megapode. The natural landscape at the foot of Tompotika Mountain is no less appealing – calming waterfalls and breathtaking view of the forest will complete your experience in sulawesi’s secluded peninsula. l

Bukit Bangkirai, East Kalimantan

Where The Trees grOW TaLL

Bukit Bangkirai at samboja District, east Kalimantan has arguably the best tropical rainforest view. No need to trek in and out of forest to enjoy this view. all you need to do is put on your running shoes, climb up the stairs that coil around a 30-metre-high tree and tiptoe your way through a 64-meter

swaying bridge that connects five 50-meter-tall bangkirai trees.

mount tomPotiKa

forest, central

sulawesi• PTNDSTour&

Travel,Street Tg. Pesik No. 20, Palu, Central Sulawesi, Phone: +62-451-451051, e-mail: randhy8686@yahoo.com

• PTRajawaliAshab, Sis Aljufri 24, Palu,Central Sulawesi, Phone: +62-451-4725858, e-mail: aim_husen@yahoo.co.id

• AviaExpressT&T, Street Dr. Moh. Hatta 4, Palu, Central Sulawesi, Phone: +62-451-422895

BuKit BanGKirai,

east Kalimantan• PTMylaTour,Street

Kemakmuran No. 6, Samarinda, East Kalimantan,Phone: +62-541 7730 146, e-mail: myla.tour@yahoo.co.id

• JLToursandTravel,Street Jenderal Sudirman, tarakan, East Kalimantan,Phone: +62-551 32615,e-mail: jltoursandtravel@yahoo.com

• PTDelapanMutiara,Street Dr. Soetomo No. 29, Samarinda, East Kalimantan,Phone: +62-541- 738 970

• BorneoTour&Travel(Balikpapan), Mr. Joko (+62811545793), e-mail: tborneo@indo.net.id

• HoneyTour, Endang Gunawan (+628176941777), Zikri (+6281802156188), Herdi (+6281995194009)

112

Bukit Bangkirai is a conservation area specifically for bangkirai trees, a type of indigenous tree of Kalimantan that has become severely rare. The area is home to some 40 to 50-meter-high bangkirai trees aging more than 150 years old. The 1,500-hectare forest also houses flocks of birds that migrate from the Bukit soeharto National park, which can be reached from Balikpapan within an hour by car. l

Lore Lindu National Park, Poso

ghOsT mOnkeys anD OLD reLiCs

if you wish to discover beautiful lakes, flowing rivers, mountains, forest and a valley all at the same time, then the Lore Lindu National park is perfect for you. according to hiker Farchan Noor rachman, the park offers a phenomenal stretch of nature. In addition, it is also home to a variety of sulawesi’s endemic animals.

at the heart of Lore Lindu is a lake that stretches 200 hectares in size. Farhan said the Lindu Lake, along with its surrounding landscape, is nothing short of enchanting. From around the lake, we can see the proud

lore linDu national

ParK, Poso• PTNDSTour&

Travel,Street Tg. Pesik No. 20, Palu, Central Sulawesi,Phone: +62-451-451051, e-mail: randhy8686@yahoo.com

• PTRajawaliAshab, Sis Aljufri 24, Palu,Central Sulawesi, Phone: +62-451-4725858, e-mail: aim_husen@yahoo.co.id

• AviaExpressT&T, Street Dr. Moh. Hatta 4, Palu, Central Sulawesi, Phone: +62-451-422895

113

f o r e s t

mountains of Nokilalaki, adale, Kona’a, Tumaru, gimba, Jala, rindi and Toningkolue.

Nature, however, is not the object to see in Lore Lindu. You can also visit region’s traditional villages and spend a night or two there. If time allows, you should also stop by Kamarora, Doda and Bada, located not too far away from Lore Lindu. Trekking to all four places takes around a week.

While in Kamarora you can seek for tarsius or ghost monkeys during nighttime; at the Doda and Bada valleys, you can discover megalithic stone relics. It is highly recommended that you visit these places between July and september. “The view in Doda-Bada is exceptionally beautiful. The stone relics resemble those of the easter Island,” said Farchan. l

Arfak Forest, Papua

DanCe, CenDraWasih, DanCe

mount arfak Forest is home to the birds of paradise, which the locals still refer to as the yellow bird or Cenderawasih bird. surely, however, arfak is the world’s most popular destination for Cenderawasih observation.

To get there, you must plan your trip perfectly, so that your exploration will not go to waste. The best time to visit is in the morning, around 8 or 9 a.m., where the strikingly beautiful birds dance on the trees, showing off their stunning feathers.

arfak is located 35 kilometers away from Ma-nokwari, the capital city of West papua. The dis-tance from the start of your trek to the bird-watch-ing spot is relatively close. For around one and a half hours, you will be trekking along a steep moun-tain slope, but the challenging journey is only a small price to pay for the satisfaction of witness-ing the beauty of the birds of paradise right before your eyes. l

Bantimurung, South Sulawesi

The kingDOm OF FireFLies

at river salenrang, trees light up at night. Instead of moonlight or Christmas light decorations, these trees are adorned by flickering fireflies circling the mangroves along the Dusun rammang-rammang river, Maros District,

south sulawesi – 50 kilometers away from Makassar. The small, illuminating fireflies also like to perch on our hands when we stand near the trees. l

arfaK forest, PaPua

• NatrabuTours&Travel, 1 Batukarang Street, Jayapura, Papua, Phone: +62-967- 35613

• PapuaAdventureT&T(Papua), Mr. Gantang (+62817364243, +6281344628586), e-mail: info@papuaadventure.com, info@papuaholidays.com

• HoneyTour,Endang Gunawan (+628176941777), Zikri (+6281802156188), Herdi (+6281995194009)

• AntaExpressTours&Travel,34-A Dr. W. Sudirohusodo Street, Makassar, South Sulawesi, Phone:+ 62-411-321440, e-mail: antaupg@antatour.co.id

• PanoramaTravelIndonesia, F3/9 Citra Sudiang Indah Street, Makassar, South Sulawesi, Phone: +62-411-550340, e-mail: info@panorama-indonesia.com

• RamayanaTours&Travel, 27 Boulevard Blok F Street, Panakukang Mas, South Sulawesi, Phone: +62-411-441552, e-mail: nicorstt@indosat.net.id

BantimurunG, soutH sulawesi

114

Betung Kerihun National Park, West Kalimantan

up The kapuas river sTream

Garendel siboro, Betung Kerihun District II Kedami’s head of management, explained that there are a variety of exciting activities to do as one explores the national park. These activities range from spotting hornbills, a mystical Borneo animal that inspired the Dayak Tribe’s traditional dance, to

encountering a new type of orchid whose substances

– myth has it – can extend one’s lifespan.For fishing enthusiasts, Betung Kerihun is the

perfect choice. While enjoying the lush, beautiful view, you can go fishing at a specifically arranged location. according to garendel, there are quite a few interesting catches in the river, including jumbo-sized semah fish, which cost a fortune.

If you claim yourself as an adrenaline junkie, you can try water-trekking in an area of the Kapuas riv-er that flows upstream. along the way, not only will you get to see carrion flowers (bunga bangkai) and deers, you can also learn more about the culture of the Dayak punan, the oldest Dayak Tribe in Kaliman-tan – given you pay the tribal village a visit. l

Manupeu Tanah Daru National Park, East Nusa Tenggara

enCOunTer WiTh The sumba birDs

located in the western part of sumba, the Manupeu Tanah Daru Forest – according to its ecosystem manager, hartoto – is the best habitat for the sumba birds, proudly housing 123 types of birds and eight types of endemic birds. “Fourteen of them are near extinction,” said hartoto.

Manupeu Tanah Daru also gives you the opportunity to encounter, at first hand, the Timor dears and seven types of endemic butterflies. Our meeting with sumba’s local animals took place amid the panoramic savannah-rich national park, where several beautiful white sandy beaches also lie.

Trekking the entire Manupeu Tanah Daru area takes five days and four nights; however, if it’s bird-watching you are after – such as watching cocka-too (kakatua cempaka), sumba hornbill (julang Sum-ba) and kepodang-sungu Sumba – two days and one night should be sufficient. “The best attraction in our national park is indeed bird-watching, so it is common for visitors to spend only a few days here,” said hartoto. The best time to visit this park is between March and June, and October and December. l

BetunG KeriHun

national ParK, west Kalimantan

• FamilyTour&Travel, Street Merapi No. 179, Pontianak, Phone: +62-561-734583, e-mail: familytour179@yahoo.co.id

• PTNafaTravel,Street Nusa Indah III Blok BB 82, Pontianak, Phone: +62-561-765023

• AntyaTour&Travel,Street Teuku Umar 62, Pontianak, Phone: +62-561-733688, 741994

• MalindoTour&Travel, Street Pattimura 209 C, Pontianak, Phone: +62-561734011

manuPeu tanaH Daru

national ParK,

east nusa tenGGara

• PT.PitobyTravel, Jl. Sudirman No.136, Telepon (0380) 832700

• PT.TeddysTravel, Jl. Ikan Tongkol No.1, Telepon (0380) 822422

• PT.FloressaTravel,Jl. Mawar No.15, Telepon (0380) 832012

• PT.DutaNusantara, Jl. Sudirman, Telepon (0380) 821240

115

f o r e s t

116

Sejarah

Lontohir and Banda Volcano.

117

A Pieceof HistoryPhoto: Ayu Ambong, Text: Agung Sedayu

The original spice islands is where colonialism in indonesia began. old buildings harking back To ThaT period are scaTTered around The Town of banda neira, from The old rundown forTs, To The duTch official’s residence and The exile home of m.haTTa, one of indonesia’s independence proclamaTors. one of The nearby islands was barTered for manhaTTan in new york, usa. a rare place of hisTory blessed wiTh naTural beauTy.

Banda Neira, Maluku

h i s t o r yh i s t o r y

118

The sea was just turning blue when the Pelni ship Tidar that I was traveling on with photographer Ayu Ambong docked at Neira harbor, on Monday, October 14. The water was clear, calm and shimmering. Banda volcano across from the pier was also reflected. At this

same pier, on February 1, 1936, Mohammad hatta and Sutan Sjahrir got off the ship Fommel Haut which had brought them from their harsh internment in Boven Digul, Papua. They remained in exile in Neira until 1942. I began thinking, why had the Dutch made such a beautiful island into a place of exile.

I couldn’t concentrate when I heard the announcement that the passengers would be asked to quickly disembark. Among the hundreds of passengers rushing to get off, Meutia Farida hatta Swasono, daughter of Indonesia’s first vice-president could be seen slowly descending the ship’s planks, which were slippery with dew. Meutia was in Neira to attend the graduation ceremony of the Sekolah Tinggi Ilmu Perikanan hatta-Sjahrir (hatta-Sjahrir College of Fisheries), the only tertiary level school in Banda. “The Dutch consciously exiled hatta

The best time to visit Banda

Neira is the season when

the sea is calm, September to

mid-December and March to May. It is not

recommended to visit in June and July due to the strong

winds and high waves in the Banda Sea.

Whento go

Neira Sjahrir

Banda Besar

VolcanoAy

Rhun

Hatta

and Sjahrir in this beautiful place so that their attitude towards the government would soften. But their efforts failed,” explained Meutia, 66.

Meutia stayed at the hotel Maulana located on the right side of the pier. This two-storey Dutch style hotel was built by Des Alwi Abubakar, a leading figure of Banda who was also the adopted son of both hatta and Sjahrir. All of the rooms face the straits and the Banda volcano. In 1993, Sarah Ferguson, daughter-in law to the Queen of england, and her two daughters visited Banda and stayed in that hotel. Other visitors have included the world famous diver Jacques Yves Costeau and Mick Jagger of the Rolling Stones. “They all stayed in Room 214,” said Des Alwi’s daughter, Tanya Marinka, who now manages the hotel.

Banda Neira or Banda Naira is one of the main islands in the Banda archipelago as well as being the center for the government of Banda subdistrict, Central Maluku. The Banda subdistrict consists of 12 islands with a total area of 172 square kilometers. There are almost no cars here. Over a four day period we only saw three cars and all of them were in poor condition. “We prefer to walk or ride a bike, what’s more, gasoline is often difficult to get here,” said Lukman Ang, a local resident who became our guide. It’s a pleasure to walk in Neira. The streets are clean and beautifully lush, lined with colonial style buildings on the right and left. Rumah Budaya Banda Neira (Banda Neira house of Culture) is 25 meters from the harbor. Assorted remnants of the colonial era are kept in this museum, from various sized canons to earthenware.

The house in which Sjahrir lived in exile is located to the right of this building. The Indische style house combining colonial and tropical architecture has high ceilings with six round pillars, large windows, and a steeply sloping roof. The spacious main room is between the bedroom and the study. An old gramophone can be found with a record of the Daphne and Chloe Suite Symphonique produced by Columbia. Sjahrir’s room has a wooden cabinet filled with a number of notebooks, pens, clothing, and even the letter from President Sukarno appointing Sjahrir as prime minister. In the study is an antique Underwood typewriter. The area surrounding Sjahrir’s house has buildings with similar architecture. One of these is the former home of the Dutch Governor-General, Jan Pieterszoon Coen.

Not far from there, a 10-minute walk for me, is the house where hatta lived in exile. The large house consists of the main building in the front with an addition in the back. hatta rented the house for 10 gulden from a Dutchman named De Vries who owned a nutmeg plantation. De Vries was willing to rent the house cheaply because it was said to be haunted by ghosts. “But in fact there were none,” Meutia told us.

In the study there is an old table on which sits an

119

Rhun Island, the Dutch handed over Manhattan to the British in exchange with this island through the Breda Agreement.

Ambon-Banda NeiraTake a 25-seat Merpati flight leaving

Ambon at 7am WIT (Eastern Indonesia Time) and arrive at

Banda Neira at 8am WIT. The ticket costs Rp300,000 per person. The

plane flies six-eight times a month, usually on a Saturday, Sunday, or

Monday.

Take the state-owned Pelni passenger ships: Kelimutu or

Tidar. The price of these two ships is the same: economy class is

Rp97,000, Class II is Rp282,000, Class I Rp343,000 per person. Each

of these ships only travels once every two weeks. The ship usually leaves Ambon harbor at 6pm WIT,

with travel time to Banda Neira taking eight-12 hours.

Note:The Ambon-Banda Neira flight

schedule changes every month and is not listed online, so it is necessary

to visit or telephone directly to the Ambon branch office of Merpati

on Jalan Ahmad Yani 19, Ambon, telephone 62-991-343937.

Arrival in Ambon must be arranged to suit the schedule of the Merpati

flight or the Pelni ship to Banda Neira if you do not wish to spend

a night in Ambon. But if you must spend the night, many hotels are

available in this capital of Maluku province. From Pattimura airport

in the city of Ambon there is a Damri airport bus with tickets at

Rp30,000 per person. If necessary you can rent a car for Rp150,000

per person.

route

information center

Tourism OfficeMaluku Province Culture and Tourism BoardJend. Sudirman Street, Batu merah, Ambon, Malukuwebsite: www.disbudparmaluku.org e-mail: disbudparmaluku@yahoo.com

Travel AgentAmbon Dive CentrePantai Namalatu Street Latuhalat, MalukuPhone: +62-911-55685Fax.: +62-911-54199

Pesona Wisata MarinaWim Rawaru Street Ambon, MalukuPhone: +62-911-43473

Natrabu27 Anthony Rhebok Street, Ambon, MalukuPhone: +62-911-43938Fax.: +62-911-43959

Tujuh Jaya Travel Agent142-143 Kopra Street, Ambon, MalukuPhone: +62-911-52342Fax,: +62-911-52690

h i s t o r y

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antique typewriter. In that room hatta would usually read magazines or write articles on the typewriter while sipping coffee. he sent articles to a number of publishers in Java or the Netherlands. The magazine Sin Tit Po was one of the media that often published hatta’s articles.

On the terrace of the additional building are a row of seven benches and old style writing tables facing a wooden blackboard. This is where hatta and Sjahrir opened afternoon classes to teach the children of Banda subjects from arithmetic to english. Des Alwi (1927-2010) in Sejarah Banda Naira (history of Banda Naira) said that Sjahrir gave lessons to the younger children, while hatta taught the older children. They taught all the lessons in Dutch.

Little by little, however, they slipped in patriotism in their curriculum. They taught that Teungku Umar and Diponegoro were heroes who had opposed the colonialists, not rebels as they were labeled by the Dutch government. hatta once invited the children to paint a boat in red and white. Meanwhile Sjahrir often took a boat with the children to Pisang Island only a few kilometers from Neira. On this arid, uninhabited island, he taught them to sing the Indonesia Raya national anthem. To commemorate Sjahrir, the island’s name has been changed to Sjahrir Island. hatta’s

name is also immortalized as the name of another island not far from Sjahrir Island. hatta Island is known for its coral reefs and the diversity of fish. hammerhead sharks, dolphins, and whales are often found near this island.

About a hundred meters from the house where hatta was interned, is the Mini Palace of Neira, home to the governor of the VOC (Vereenigde Oost-Indische Compagnie—Dutch east India Company), which is similar architecturally to the Bogor Palace. In front of the palace stretches Neira beach facing Banda Besar Island. hatta and Sjahrir often swam here accompanied by the children. The beach is clean and has a shallow coral reef but there are many sea urchins. “For that reason Father often swam wearing white sneakers,” recalled Muetia.

In Neira, there were houses where Tjipto Mangoenkoesoemo and Iwa Kusumasumantri lived in exile. They both were exiled to Banda from 1927. Tjipto’s house is spacious with six large pillars supporting the terrace. There are wooden cabinets, a rocking chair and eight square marble tabes. Iwa’s house is smaller without much furnishing except for chairs and an old table. In the past, almost every Saturday night hatta and Sjahrir would visit the homes of Tjipto and Iwa.

» Culture House Museum of Banda Neira

» Home in exile of Sutan Sjahrir

» Home in exile of Mohammad Hatta

» Home in exile of Tjipto Mangoenkoesoemo

» Home in exile of Iwa Kusumasumantri

» Tugu Parigi Rante, monument in memory of the massacre of Banda village chiefs by the Dutch

» Hollandische Kerk old church

» Istana Mini Neira former residence of the VOC governor

» Former house of the VOC deputy governor of Banda Neira

» Former residence of VOC Governor-General Jan Pieterszoon Coen

» Belgica Fort built by the Portuguese in the 16th century then taken over by the VOC. This pentagonal shaped fort was restored to its original shape in 1991.

» Nassau Fort, former Portuguese fort rebuilt by the VOC in 1607. This was the first Dutch fort in Banda.

tourist spots

Maulana is the only hotel

with a dive center. The

rate for diving is Rp350,000-

450,000 per person, including

lunch. Rental of diving

equipment costs

Rp150,000 per set per person.

Diving

Rp750,000 to Rp1.5 million

per day, maximum

eight people. The price

depends on the type of

boat and destination.

motor-boat

rental

Snorkeling equipment

can be rented at all the

hotels at about Rp50,000 per

set.

snorkel-ing

Meutia Hatta at Hatta’s home in exile in Banda Neira.

121

a FORT shaped like a pentagon stands proudly at the top of the Banda Neira plateau, just about 300 meters from the harbor. The fort called Belgica is about 2,000 square meters in area and 10 meters tall. The upper part of the fort has a cannon on every side. The Dutch built it on the remains of a Portuguese

fort in the 16th century. The British took control of the fort in 1796. During the Japanese occupation the fort was destroyed, but the government restored it in 1991.

Not far from Belgica can be found the remains of Nassau Fort which was built by the Dutch in 1607. This 3,000-square meter fort is in ruins. All that remains are the walls, some of which have already collapsed. Nassau was the first Dutch fort in Banda. In 1621, this fort was where 44 wealthy Banda residents were massacred, as ordered by Coen.

From Neira we traveled to Banda Besar. The largest island in Banda has tens of hectares of nutmeg plantations shaded by giant walnut trees that are hundreds of years old. here the Dutch built two forts. The first is Concordia Fort in Waer village. Located directly on the beach, it faces the open sea. This fort built in 1621 is five meters high with two entranceways, one facing the sea and the other the land. The second fort is hollandia in Lonthoir village. This 500-meter square fort was built in 1642.

From Neira we rented a motorboat to head to Ai and Rhun islands. The trip to Ai took about half an hour. Revengie Fort built by the Dutch in 1616 is on this island about 100 meters from the beach. Four rusty old cannons sit among the weeds filling the top of the fort. According to Yusuf Maja, an elder of Ai village, this fort was built to suppress a rebellion in 1615.

About half an hour by motorboat from Ai island is Rhun island. It is not very large, just about 2,600 meters long and 1,600 meters wide. however, Rhun

Home in exile of Sutan Sjahrir.

Belgica Fort.

was the most important island because it was the center of the nutmeg trade in Banda. It also became the first British colony. Later, in 1667, through the Breda agreement, the Dutch handed over Nieuw Amsterdam, or Manhattan, in North America to the British in exchange for this island. Indeed, in the past, this island was far more valuable than Manhattan.

Today not much remains of Rhun’s golden era. The one remaining section still standing is the frame of the building known as Rumah Besi (Iron house), formerly the main building standing on a hilltop of the nutmeg plantation.“This island was destroyed during the battle between the Dutch and the British, for its control,” explained Burhan, a community leader in Rhun island.

In an after-dinner discussion at the hotel Maulana, Meutia told us about how hatta and Sjahrir practiced a rather extreme habit during their time on Banda. They would swim about 300 meters across the Neira Strait and then immediately climb to the peak of Banda volcano. “My father would frequently sit there looking out,” she said.

Feeling curious, the next day Ayu and I took a kole-kole, the name for the small wooden boats in Banda, across the Neira Strait toward the Banda volcano and climbed it. This mountain is unique because the foot of the mountain is directly on the sea floor. It is only about 600 meters high from sea level, but the path up it is steep and slippery due to small pebbles. It takes about two hours to reach the peak. We arrived there at noon exactly.

There is nothing at the top besides the sun’s intense rays, hot rocks, and the cavity of the former crater still spewing smoke. But the view is incredible. The Banda Sea shimmers like a gigantic mirror complete with fishing boats and the Banda archipelago set upon it. I imagined hatta and Sjahrir back in those days sitting atop this mountain, gazing down on the country spread out before them, so beautiful but still a colony, as they discussed the future Indonesia. l

h i s t o r y

122

Soekarno’s Home in Exile, Ende, East Nusa Tenggara

soeKArNo AND tHe BeNcH of iDeAs

a humble tin-roofed house on Jl. Perwira, ende, stores many stories. In this three-bedroom house one can find old photographs of young Soekarno, his paintings, favorite violin as well as manuscripts, which he wrote to be performed at a local theatre.

This was Soekarno’s home in exile from 1934 to 1938, where he lived with his wife InggitGarnasih, mother-in-law Amsi and two adopted children. About 100 meters from his house is an open field. Called the Pancasila Field by the locals, a life-size statue of Soekarno erects in the middle. Near the statue, a lush breadfruit tree shades over a bench. To his biographer Cindy Adams, Soekarno said he often spent hours sitting there, pondering. That very bench was where he reached an epiphany that was to become Pancasila.

endeis accessibleby plane from Kupang or Denpasar. Besides Soekarno’s house, there are other interesting spots. The three-color Lake Kelimutu, for example, is only two hours’drive from there. l

Sawahlunto, West Sumatera

coAL, tUNNeLs AND UNrecorDeD DeAtHs

in Sawahlunto, history vines upon old tin, wooden houses, tall poles, walls and rails that made upan underground tunnel called Mbah Suro, the remains of a coal excavation that splits a small city at the slopes of MountSinggalang, West Sumatra. The tunnel was built in 1898 by Dutch geologist W. h.

Soekarno’s home in exile from 1934 to 1938

soekarno’s home, enDe, east nusa tenggara

• KelimutuPermai, Jl. Nangka, Ende, Phone: +62-0381- 21355

• WisataRaya, Jl. Kelimutu No. 40, Phone: +62-0381- 24575

• Ruggangs, Jl. Sudirman No.12, Phone : +62-0381- 21051

• KahaTour, Jl. Ahmad Yani No.20, Phone: +62-0381- 21252

• SrikandiMM, Jl. Gatot Subroto, Phone: +62-0381- 21674

• AldecafTour, Jl. Gatot Subroto, Phone: +62-0381- 23567

• SililagaJaya, Jl. Melati, Phone: +62-0381- 23373

123

van Greeve, 30 years after he had found Sumatra’s biggest coal reserves.

The 700-meter-long mining cave was closed in 1932 because ground water uncontrollably flooded the dredging trail, leaving 14,000 tons of coal untouched. It was closed until 2007, when AmranNur became mayor. The 67-year-old entrepreneur conducted another dredging project, drained the water and had the tunnel open for public in April 23, 2008. “It took eight months to drain the water,” said MediIswandi, head of the Sawahlunto Tourism Office. But, not every drop of water could be drained. The city government could only manage to dig up to 15 meters deep and as far as 186 meters along the cave – and this already included air ducts as to allow visitors to go inside.

The history of the cave is recorded in the mining museum built atop the remains offoreman Mbah Surono’s house at the cave entrance. Besides axes and shovels, there are also pictures of people, chained and transported from Padang; inmates of the Dutch east Indies government. There were the people who worked the cave, excavating coals to beexported to europe. No record of casualties – which some predict reaching thousands – has ever

been recorded. At the end of the tunnel was Goedang Ransoem,

a public kitchen for the coal miners. The pictures clearly depict a time when the mine was at its prime and the houses of the locals were well maintained.

The yard has now become a public space, where the people of Sawahlunto spend their breezy afternoon hanging out or exercising, while absorbing the historical air of the city that was built in 1888.

Tiger’s Cave, South Sumatera

ANcieNt PAiNtiNGs AND sUrViViNG rAces

this prehistoric site is located on the karst hills, one kilometer away from the Padangbindu village, OganKomeringUlu Regency, South Sumatra. To reach this cave, visitors have to climb a steep and slippery slope. The cave entrance is hidden behind tall trees, grasses and bushes. At the foot of the hill flows the

Aek Kaman Basah, a small stream that ends at the OganRiver.

Archaeologists from the Center of National

Tiger’s Cave

saWahlunto, West

sumatera

• Nitour.Inc., Hiligoo Street 10, Padang, West Sumatera, Phone: +62-751 22175

• Natrabu, Pemuda Street 29B, Padang, West Sumatera, Phone: +62-751 38008

• EkaAryanBuana,C/o Pangeran Beach Hotel, Ir. H. Juanda Street 79, Padang,

• WestSumatera,Phone: +62-751-31618

• GantoLtd., S. Parman Street, Padang, West Sumatera, Phone: +62-751-52112

• ErmiTour&Travel(Padang), Mr. Edy (+6285263308618), Ms. Suci (+6281298933383)

• HoneyTour,Endang Gunawan (+628176941777), Zikri (+6281802156188), Herdi (+6281995194009)

tiger’s cave, south

sumatera• Antariksa

Wisata, Kolonel Atmo Street, 103 C, Palembang, Phone: +62-711-353643

• SantraTravel,Kapt. A Rivai Street, Palembang, Phone: +62-711-310676

• PesonaWisataSriwijaya, Bangau Street 154, Palembang, Phone: +62-711-312397

• MegahExpressIntercontinentalTour,Kolonel Atmo Street, Palembang, Phone: +62711-366185

h i s t o r y

124

Archaeological Research of the then Ministry of Tourism and Culture had found 17 prehistoric human skeletons, flint and obsidianflakes as well as cave paintings here. After years of archaeological research in Indonesia, this was the first time cave paintings were found in the western part of the archipelago.

The Tiger Cave community was predicted to have lived around 3,000 years ago. Different to Pithecanthropus erectus, Homo soloensis,andHomo mojokertensis, who were extinct during the Pleistocene era, the human race of the Tiger Cave is believed to have survived even today. Archaeologistssuspect that they were of Neo Mongoloid and Australoid races. It is estimated that they arrived in Sumatra 4,000 years ago, after the end of the Ice Age. l

Colonial Exile, Boven Digul, Papua

HAttA, sJAHrir AND eXiLe

separated from Merauke, Papua in 2002, Boven Digul is a notorious place of exile during the colonial era. Mohammad hatta, Sayuti Melik, Sutan Sjahrir and national movement figure Mas Marco Kartodikromo were exiled here.

Initially in 1927, the Dutch east Indies government used this place to alienate rebels. There were several exile locations here: Tanah Merah, GunungArang, a military zone and Tanah Tinggi. Bung hattacame bearing 16 crates of books. There, he wrote spent most of his days writing. Sjahrir was different. When he arrived, Sjahrir was ordered to cut timbers and build his own house. It is said that Sjahrir initially enjoyed taking baths at Digul River but upon hearing that the river was filled with crocodiles, he moved his bathing spot to Bening River.

Local government is currently developing Boven Digul as an integrated tourism destination. existing Dutch heritages include hospital, underground prison, inmates’ burial ground, and loods, or longhouses,in Tanah Merah. here, visitors may also enjoy the beauty of the birds of paradise, meet the tree-living Korowai Tribe and savor local delicacies. l

The Museum of Asmat Culture and Progress, Papua

WooD cArViNG sAND eNeMy’s sKULL

The Museum of Asmat Culture and Progress

boven Digul, papua

• NatrabuTours&Travel,Batukarang Street 1st, Jayapura, Papua, Phone: +62-967- 35613

• LimbunanTours&Travel,Argapura Raya No. 68, Jayapura, Papua, Phone: +62-967 35430, 35498

• TravelConhttOverseas, Pantai Kelapa No. 39 Street, Jayapura, Papua, Phone: +62-967 34063

• PapuaAdventureT&T(Papua), Mr. Gantang (+62817364243, +6281344628586), e-mail: info@papuaadventure.com, info@papuaholidays.com

• HoneyTour, Endang Gunawan (+628176941777), Zikri (+6281802156188), Herdi (+6281995194009)

125

the trail of Asmat Tribe’s highly-valued art carvings is well preserved here. Located in Agats, the capital of Papua’s Asmat Regency, the museum houses wide arrays for wood carvings, statues, bows and arrows, choppers, spears, shields and other wars and dances attributes. At

one museum corner, an enemy’s skull was hung; a token of a war’s past.

Agat scan be reached by boat from the PomakoTimika Port or by plane. It is, arguably, a swamp town. The majority of its people are fishermen. Most of their houses and buildings – even the museums – are built on stilts. These

buildings are connected with meter-high plank bridges.

The Museum of Culture and Progress is managed by the local Catholic Church, the Diocese of Agats. New collections can be found at the museum every year after the annual Asmat Culture Festival concludes in October. All the festival’s best carvings are kept in the museum. l

Danar Hadi Batik Museum, Solo

ceNtUries of BAtiK HeritAGe

stored in this museum are thousands of batik collections from different times, including those that date back more than a century. Displayed according to their years of manufacture, origins and cultural influences, among the batik collections are Batik Djawa hokokai, Indian-influenced batik, Batik

Keraton (Batik of the Palace), keraton -influenced batik, Trader’s Batik, Farmer’s Batik, Indonesian Batik, Batik Danar hadi and contemporary batik.

Located on Jl.Slamet Riyadi, the main street of Solo, Central java, the Danarhadi Batik Museum is highly accessible. From the airport, visitors may get on the Solo Batik Trans that passes the museum. For those that come in groups and wanting to experience a unique traveling method, a tourist heritage railway is available. This, however, costs millions of rupiahs.

The Batik Museum is in the same complex as the house of Danarhadi. The entrance ticket is Rp 25,000 per person and Rp 15,000 per ticket for students. Owner Santosa Doellah has integrated the museum, batik outlet, batik workshop, restaurant and meeting hall in one complex, presenting visitors with both an enjoyable shopping experience and a memorable historical experience in one visit.

Not satisfied with the displayed collection? Take a peekat the back of the museum. hundreds of batik artisans are busy making handmade and printed batik. l

museum asmat, papua

• NatrabuTours&Travel,Batukarang Street 1st, Jayapura, Papua, Phone: +62-967- 35613

• LimbunanTours&Travel, Argapura Raya No. 68, Jayapura, Papua, Phone: +62-967 35430, 35498

• TravelConhttOverseas, Pantai Kelapa No. 39 Street, Jayapura, Papua, Phone: +62-967 34063

Danar haDi batik

museum, solo,

central Java

• NatraTour,86 Gajah Mada Street, Solo, Phone: +62-271-641081

• NusantaraTour, 5 Urip Sumoharjo Street, Solo, Phone: +62-271-652888

• PesonaDuniaTour, 82 Ronggowarsito Street, Solo, Phone: +62-271-651009

h i s t o r y

126

formed the area around Malang. Once a lake, the area slowly turned into swamps, surrounded by such mountains as Anjasmara, Arjuna, Welirang, Kawi, Bromo and Semeru.

Visitors are also invited to step into the shoes of archeologists, doing some pretend excavation work in an underground room that is 3 meters wide, 6 meters long and 2.5 meters deep. In the excavation hallway, an illustration depicts two archeologists digging and finding the statue of Ken Dedes, a gong stone and bricks from an ancient settlement.

The Malang Tempo Doeloe Museum is located on Jl. Gajah Mada, directly behind the Malang City hall. General visitors payan entrance fee of Rp 15,000, while students pay Rp 10,000. The management offers a batik learning package and sells authentic Malang masks as souvenir. l

Malang Tempo Doeloe Museum, East Java

KeN DeDes AND tHe oriGiNs of MALANG

Displaying Malang’s historical items, arts and cultural pieces, visitors are invited to get themselves acquainted with the origins of Malang, even as far as the prehistoric time.

One of the hallways displays photographs of the olden times. here, visitors are taken back 1,500 years, when a volcanic eruption

Danar Hadi Batik Museum, Solo

malang tempo Doeloe,

east Java• PTAkasa

Holiday,19 Urip Sumoharjo Street, Surabaya, Phone: +62-31-5457945

• HaryonoTour,27-29 Sulawesi Street, Surabaya, Phone: +62-31-5033000, Tour International Phone: +62-31-71000500

• PTAntaExpress, Bengawan Street, Darmo, Surabaya, Phone: +62-31-5662022

127Mount Penanggungan, East Java

iMMortALity of tHe MAGicAL MoUNtAiN

historical remains scattered across the slopes of Mount Penanggungan; most come from the hindu-Buddhist civilization dating back to the 10th-16th centuries A.D. Back then, the mountain was called Pawitra. One of the oldest remains, the Jalantunda bath, is estimated to date back to 977 A.D. Situated

on the slope of Penanggungan, the bath water is believed to grant immortality.

People come to the mountain to mediate or isolate themselves. Penanggungan is believed to

have a magical charisma. According to the ancient Javanese society, the mountain’s rounded, bare and hilly peak resembles that of the Mahameru Peak, a holy mountain in India. About 80 historical sitescan be found anywhere in the mountain, from the foot to the top. Visitors can find pyramids, meditation caves as well as small temples with various statues and stone carvings.

Standing 1,653 meters above sea level, the mountain tilts between 30 to 70 degrees. hikers usually pass through the Trawas trail at Duyung Village or the Jalantunda trail at Seloliman Village to get to the peak. Jalatunda is an up hill trail, butit features various temples like Lurah, Guru, Gentong and Carik. The mountain is located at the border of Pasuruan and Mojokerto in east java. l

The Tomb of Syekh Mahmud, North Sumatra

A GAteWAy of isLAMic teAcHiNGs

this Central Tapanuli city is home to many astonishing historical objects. Besides a Portuguese fortress, here lie the tombs of the first Islamic missionaries, which include the Mahligai Tomb and the PapanTinggi Tomb. An old city in LobuTua, on the other hand, is said to be the settlement of 10th-century

immigrants from various parts of the world. Built by President Soekarno, the PapanTinggi

Tomb is located in Penanggahan Village. Dating back to the seventh century A.D., the tomb is the burial ground of Syekh Mahmud Filhadratuk, who is believed to be the first Islamic missionary to bring Islam to Indonesia. Meanwhile, the Mahligai Tomb is located in DakkaVillahe, BarusInduk District. The burial ground was built by Tuan SyekhSiddiq, who was buried there along with 200 others. Their tombstones are carved with Arabic and Persian letters.

Located on the west coast of West Sumatra, Central Tapanuli is known as far as europe and the Middle east as a producer of camphor and spices. This city can be accessed viaSibolga by car. l

mount penanggungan, east Java

• OrientExpress, 26 Sudirman Street, Surabaya, Phone: +62-31-545666

• GatewayTour,STP Satya Widya, Surabaya, Phone: +62+31-8472082

• HaryonoTour,27-29 Sulawesi Street, Surabaya, Phone: +62-31-5033000, Tour International Phone: +62-31-71000500

the tomb of syekh mahmuD,

north sumatra

• SatriaviTour&Travel, Cut Mutia Street (Hotel Tiara) Medan, Phone: +62-61-516000 Ext. 8073

• NatrabuTour&Travel, Cut Mutia Street, Medan, Phone: +62-61-516000

• Nitour.Inc, M Yamin Street 21-E, medan, Phone: +62-61-532191, 532074

• SeibaTour&Travel, Bukit Barisan Street 3G, medan, Phone: +62-61-511950, 556279

• FourSeasTour&Travel,Thamrin Street 75, Medan, Phone: +62-61-716766,710066

h i s t o r y

Photo: Tommy Satria, Text: Heru Triyono

There are only Three beaches in The world where surfers can find Their dream of a long Tunnel: hawaii, TahiTi and menTawai. avid surfers will Travel far and wide To seek The perfecT wave and in menTawai, They will find 99 challenging siTes, wiTh ‘bena’ Tongues and poisoned coral. if hawai is known as The mecca of surfing, menTawai is iTs Jerusalem.

SurferS ParadiSeMentawai, West Sumatra128

AFP

PHOT

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AYSI

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129

s u r f i n gs u r f i n g

Sandi Slamet

Tourism OfficeWest Sumatera Province Culture and Tourism Office7 Khatib Sulaiman Street, Padang, West Sumaterawebsite: www.minangkabautourism.info e-mail: info@minangkabautourism.info

Travel AgentNitour.Inc.10 Hiligoo Street, Padang, West SumateraPhone: +62-751 22175

Natrabu29-B Pemuda Street, Padang, West SumateraPhone: +62-751 38008

Eka Aryan BuanaC/o Pangeran Beach Hotel, 79 Ir. H. Juanda Street, Padang, West SumateraPhone: +62-751-31618Fax.: +62-751-32806

Ganto Ltd.S. Parman Street, Padang, West SumateraPhone: +62-751-52112Fax,: +62-751-52112

Sianok Holiday23-A Prof. Dr. Hamka Street, Padang, West SumateraPhone: +62-751-51126Fax.: +62-751-33570Telex: 55316

Pacto Ltd.25 Tan Malaka Street,Phone: +62-751-27788Fax.: +62-751-33335

Ermi Tour & Travel (Padang), Mr. Edy (+6285263308618), Ms. Suci (+6281298933383)

Honey Tour, Endang Gunawan (+628176941777), Zikri (+6281802156188), Herdi (+6281995194009)

information center

130

Like a penguin, Sandi Slamet dove under the three-storey-high wave. He vanished for a moment, then surfaced again, his body arched. The wave rose up under his board, forming the curled-over crest known as a barrel. He rode in this tunnel for eight seconds. “Yeeees, i defeated it (the wave),” he called out in his

uniquely accented Balinese-Sundanese english.Sandi’s feat drew a round of applause from other

surfers sitting astride their boards in the ocean. They were all at e-Bay, known for its waves, in the northwest part of Masokut (Nyang-Nyang) island, Mentawai islands Regency, West Sumatra.

in early October, photographer Tommy Satria and i explored Mentawai’s surf spots. We focused on those on Siberut and Masokut islands. i invited Sandi, a surfer ranked tenth in the Asian Surfing Championships (ASC), to join us. This was the third time he had enjoyed the waves there.

Sandi is a born surfer. in primary school he was already riding waves on a sheet of plywood he had acquired from public toilets on the beach. His home then was not far from Pelabuhan Ratu’s Sunset Beach in West Java, allowing him to practiced at any given time. His skills developed quickly, so by the time he was 15 he was sponsored by Quiksilver. A year later he snatched first place in Quiksilver’s king of the Groms world championship in kuta, Bali.

Later that afternoon, after conquering e-Bay’s waves, Sandi’s adrenaline was still pumping. He wanted to perform a 360—a complete rotation while airborne—before sunset. in a small motorized wooden boat we all headed for Pit Stops, another wave spot about a kilometer from e-Bay.

Unfortunately for him, a wave the size of a bus got the better of him. The five-and-a-half-foot board he was riding slammed into his face. Blood poured from his lips. They wer torn wide open! “The scary part is not when you catch a wave, but when a wave catches you,” he said chuckling, after his torn lip had been treated at a clinic on Pei-Pei island.

Pit Stops lies to the north of the Playgrounds

board types

Guns: For big and

strong waves. Size: 7-10 feet.

Mini Malibu: For medium and strong

wives. Size: 6-7 feet.

Retro single fin:

For medium waves. Size:

6-8 feet

Semi guns: For medium and strong

waves. Size: 7-8.5 feet

area at the tip of Simaimu island. it has a beach the length of two football fields. its blue-green waters are fringed with coconut palms. The white grains of sand on its beach the texture of sugar.

Playgrounds is so named because it has dozens of good surf spots within reach. “You can only find this in Mentawai. The waves here are just heavenly,” raved our guide Pendi Arianto, also a surfer himself.

For surfers, Mentawai is not only heaven, but the holy land too. if Hawaii is Mecca, Mentawai is Jerusalem. Wahid Nafir, a 40-year-old surfer from France, said Mentawai was one of a surfer’s must-visit destinations on earth. “i am a Muslim, but i worship the waves here,” he said laughing.

every time he comes to Mentawai, he always finds fulfillment at this isolated and exclusive spot. On his surfboard he feels on top of the world. “it makes me high,” he said. For him, the feeling is like a drug.

Mentawai’s beaches are certainly quiet, clean and garbage-free. Much of the island is covered in forest that is home to its protected endemic species, such as the Mentawai short-tailed macaque monkey. The island’s original tribe, the Mentawi, also live there still. When we were on Siberut, we saw some of them come down from the interior to mix with other residents. They wear loincloths and put flowers in their hair and behind their ears.

But Mentawai’s unspoilt nature has now become a source of conflict. Surfers are fighting among themselves to gain rights to the best wave spots. Although the Mentawai islands government has already set a limit of 10 surfers at any one spot, the reality in the ocean is different. Mutual shoving to get a wave is not uncommon, with some surfers even coming to blows over a wave.

Surfers everywhere tend to push one another out of the way, Sandi said. in France he was sometimes discriminated against. He was given only the very end of the barrels of relatively small waves, while the sweet spot in the middle went to white surfers. At Mentawai, he got his revenge by controlling the waves, even though the majority of surfers there still have blond hair.

“Surfing is street fighting. The only way to win is to play rough. There are no rules as on a football pitch. There is only you and the wave,” an emotional Sandi stressed.

Muhammad Ridwan, a member of Sipora island’s Surfguard community, admitted there certainly was some ill-will between local and foreign surfers. The locations of several spots with spectacular waves had even been kept hidden from foreigners so they would not be appropriated. Once the foreigners know about them, Ridwan said, they would just build resorts there.

Mentawai now has 15 resorts, mostly owned by foreigners. That number excludes illegal ones.

Mentawai

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At some, rooms go for US$150 to US$200 (Rp1.5 million to Rp2 million) a night. Those resorts, said Nursyam Saleh, commissioner of surfing and resort operation on Nyang-Nyang, were mostly built without submitting environmental impact analyses and by knocking down mangroves. “They only get permits from the local subdistrict heads,” he said.

We managed to visit Pit Stops Hill, a popular Mentawai resort. its main building is largely built of wood and has a bar and lounge. it has domed ceilings and has made use of the raised platform house concept. it can accommodate 10 people. To stay the night, you need to dig really deep into your pocket. “A single surfing trip package costs AU$7,000 (Rp75 million),” said Travis Micale, a surfer from Australia who was staying there.

Surfing in Mentawai is certainly not cheap. We had to pay Rp9 million to rent a motorboat for only two days. Pendi, the boat’s owner, claimed this was a fair rate because the price of Premium petrol on Mentawai is Rp15,000 a liter. When looking for waves, he explained, his boat could use up 300-odd liters a day.

Don’t get it into your head that the hull of his boat was made of shining white fiberglass. it was more akin to the ragged lifeboat in the film Life of Pi, with the only difference being our boat’s motor and tarpaulin cover. We were duly thankful to have survived the wrath of the ocean when we encountered a storm during our three-hour crossing from Pei-Pei to Sipora.

its geographic position directly facing the indian Ocean does make Mentawai’s waves bigger. That is a blessing for surfers. Oversized waves can spell disaster. if there is a storm, all sea transportation must cease operations. The islands are 150 kilometers from the coast of Sumatra, with a shoreline of 758 kilometers. The months of June to November, which coincide with summer holidays in europe, are the best season to surf there. Waves at that time can be 10 meters high.

Mentawai’s waves have characteristically long barrels, making them very popular. They are also closely spaced. So surfers do not need to wait too long for the next wave.

The worldwide recognition of the islands can be gauged from the many surfing championships held there. every year the Mentawai World Champions’ Surfing Series is held in August. This September a Mentawai government program, the Mentawai international Pro Surf Competition, was staged at

the Lance’s Right wave spot.Mentawai has 99 international category wave

spots. They cover the areas of Nyang-Nyang, karang Bajat, karoniki, Pananggelat and Mainuk (Siberut), katiet Basua (Sipora), and North Pagai (Sikakap island). The 2010 tsunami did not affect these locations at all. The Mentawai Regency Tourism Agency has instead now recorded 74 new ones.

each wave spot has its own unique character. No kanduis Left draws its name from the phrase ‘no can do it’. kanduis suits ‘goofy-foot’ surfers, who prefer to ride right foot forward, because its waves break to the left (from left to right as seen from the beach).

The name of this less common stance derives from the well-known Disney cartoon character. Mentawai surfer Dedi Saraina told us that in the Disney film Hawaiian Holiday, Goofy tries to surf with his left foot forward but falls off three times. When he shifts his right foot out front, however, he becomes really

good. Some of the best surfers around—kelly Slater, Andy irons,

180 or 360: Performing a

half or full turn in the air above

a wave

Air or aerial: Jumping above

a wave

Backdoor: Entering the

barrel of a wave from behind the

crest

Barrel: Putting the whole body

and the board inside the barrel of a

wave

Mick Fanning—have all taken to Goofy’s style.if you are a regular foot and want to surf on left-

breaking waves, you will need to be able to surf well with your back to them. if you can't, they will likely end up tossing you around.

Mentawai has many varieties of left-breaking waves. That is why kelly Slater really loves it there. Almost every six months, Dedi says, the legendary US surfer visits Lance’s Left.

But Slater is not the only one drawn there. Prince Charles, son of Queen elizabeth ii, visits Mentawai every year, even though it is not to surf. Deputy Mentawai islands Regent, Rijel Samaloisa said people from the British embassy contact him to seek his permission when Charles wants to visit. “Let’s hope he doesn’t want to establish another kingdom here,” Rijel said laughing.

Mentawai’s surfing culture first appeared in the 1990’s. That was when foreign surfers began to explore the islands, renting local fishermen’s motorboats, not using pleasure craft as they now do. They slept on planks, ate rice on the beaches and spent weeks in the water.

Dedi said he followed the Australians there. With his friends they formed a small community and pulled money to buy fuel for the boats. Their surfboards were gifts from tourists or ones they had made themselves from wood. Now 5,000 people on

moves

04

01

03

02

01

02

03

04

05

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Back side snap:

Performed when facing away from

a wave, like drifting in a

vehicle

Charging: Surfing

aggressively

Cut back: Turning the board and

body are back to complete an

initial move

Floater: Riding the

crest of a wave

Snap: Turning the body

sharply at the edge of a wave

Stole: Pushing your hand into

the face of a

average go there every year.On Mentawai you will see that surfing is infectious,

at least from the aspects of its fashions and philosophy of life. You will notice surfers’ six-pack muscles when they stand up on their boards, and see they appear to be completely unaffected by the looks from others when they are wearing only board shorts. One more thing: they will always say anything is possible, including riding waves as high as a Pondok indah house.

i got word Sandi went back to the water to surf again—less than three days after the nasty accident when he tore his lip. He just let the salt water heal them, and refused to let his fear win. Maybe it’s as he always says: “Life’s a swell. Life is great, just like those big swells out there.” l

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09

08

07

05

06

0607

08

09 10

North Pagai

South Pagai

Sipora

Siberut

No Kanduis LeftZone: PlaygroundsWave quality: ★ ★ ★ ★ ★Best height: 8-13 feet

Pit StopsZone: Nyang-NyangWave quality: ★ ★ ★ ★ Best height: 3-8 feet

Lance's LeftZone: SiporaWave quality: ★ ★ ★ ★ ★Best height: 2-13 feet

Beng-BengZone: Nyang-NyangWave quality: ★ ★ ★ ★ Best height: 3-8 feet

E-BayZone: Nyang-NyangWave quality: ★ ★ ★ ★ ★Best height: 4-10 feet

Macaroni'sZone: North PagaiWave quality: ★ ★ ★ ★ ★Best height: 3-9 feet

A-FramesZone: PlaygroundsWave quality: ★ ★ ★ ★ Best height: 3-11 feet

ThundersZone: South PagaiWave quality: ★ ★ ★ ★ Best height: 3-8 feet

TelescopesZone: SiporaWave quality: ★ ★ ★ ★ ★Best height: 4-11 feet

NipussiZone: Nyang-NyangWave quality: ★ ★ ★ ★ Best height: 3-13 feet

getting to ‘JerusaLem’

tHE easiest way to go to Mentawai—the surfing Jerusalem—is by boarding the Gambolo boat from the Bungus Harbour,

Padang, with a fare of Rp85,000. The sea transportation is more recommended, because there is no clear flight schedule from the pioneer airline. The information in Padang Airport indicated that Susi Air flies three times a week, on Monday, Wednesday and Friday, to Rokot Airport, Mentawai. But all four Susi Air’s phone numbers stated could not be reached. The sea voyage takes about 11 hours. The boat leaves at 8pm and arrives in Muara Siberut Harbor at 7am.

From the Muara Siberut Harbor, we continued the journey by taking motorcycle taxis for Rp50,000 per person. Actually, the distance to reach Manai Koat Hotel—with a room rate of Rp175,000 per person per night—is less than 3 kilometers away.

There is no regular transportation to go to tourism sites. Land transportation is also only available in the capital of Mentawai Regency in Tua Pejat, Sipora Island. To go surfing, we have to rent motorized boats. The rent fee is Rp9 million for two days. We can also rent cruise ship and speedboat. But the price is not cheap, more than Rp20 million. l

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Krui, Lampung

• Wayka Bahari Tpurs & Travel, Antasari Street, Bandar Lampung, Phone: +62-721-706123

• Eleste Tours & Travel, Ikan Simba Street, Teluk Betuk, Bandar lampung, Phone: +62-721-482325

• Krakatau Lampung Tours & Travel, Kartini Street 19-25, Bandar Lampung, Phone: +62-721-263625

• 333 Tours & Travel, Ikan Banyung Street 2 Sukaraja, Bandar lampung, Phone: +62-721-485579

Krui, Lampung

ON THe rOLLS Of Krui

the virgin sea and the rolling waves of the coast of krui have relatively been unheard of. This capital of Pasir Tengah District in West Lampung is better known as home of the Shorea javanica, a type of kauri tree growing only in the mountains of South Bukit Barisan. The sea, on the other hand, is home to black

marlins. Located 250 kilometers or six hours drive from Bandar Lampung, it is barely noticed by tourists. That is perhaps why most of the tourists roaming around the Labuhan Jukung Beach and the Mandiri Beach are foreign surfers.

Like in Mentawai, the krui waves too are given a foreign name. Reaching 6.9 meters in during high tide, Jimmy’s Waves at Pugung Penengahan are strictly for professional surfers.

But, krui itself is not limited to the wave-riding experts – many less dangerous locations are available. The waves of Tanjung Setia is a foreign surfers’ favorite for the waves are enormous and the waters deep, providing visitors with a safer environment. l

Plengkung and Red Island, East Java

TWO THaT are HiddeN aWaY

if you are into beautiful secluded places (that are not quite Bali), cross over to Banyuwangi, where beaches no less beautiful than those of the island of the Gods are hidden. Plengkung and Merah island – popularly known as Red island among surfers – are two of them.

Plengkung Beach – also called the G Land by world surfers – is an ideal surfing venue. The long stretch of waves rolls high into the sky, providing surfers with a new level of challenge. Plengkung is part of the Alas Purwo National Park; so don’t expect the road will be smooth.

Red island, on the other hand, is located 80 kilometers from Banyuwangi. Different from Plengkung, the waves at Red island are friendlier, rolling only up to an average of 2 meters. An island without inhabitants, Red island’s scenery is breathtaking. When the sun is about to set, a tinge of the beam paints the island red. l

Klayar, East Java

PriVaCY Of THe uNTOuCHed

a cluster of beaches that spreads in the south of Pacitan is an eye opener: the sands white, the waves high and the serenity makes you think the island is yours alone.

Pacitan, the Land of a Thousand Caves in east Java, has at least 11 beaches worthy of a visit. Still, four of them – Watu karung,

Srau, Pancer and klayar – offer the best scenery. Most of the waves here can be surfed. High

barrier reefs and dense wild plants dominate the beach’s natural vegetation. Small uninhabited islands become unique accessories.

For those interested to visit, there are several things to note. First, there are no public transportations to reach the beach. Second, the road leading to it is narrow and curvy. Given these

pLengKung and red isLand,

east Java• Haryono Tour,

27-29 Sulawesi Street, Surabaya, Phone: +62-31-5033000, Tour International Phone: +62-31-71000500

• Adi Giant Wisata, 194C, Kapasan Street, Surabaya, Phone: +62-31-310881

• PT Anta Express, Bengawan Street, Darmo, Surabaya, Phone: +62-31-5662022

• Orient Express, Sudirman Street, Surabaya, Phone: +62-31-54456666

• Gateway Tour, STP Satya Widya, Surabaya, Phone: +62-31-8472082

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obstacles, it is not surprising that almost all Pacitan beaches are still untouched.

Lodging is not a problem. All of those beaches are in proximity to local residential areas, which accommodate visitors. l

Ombak Tujuh, West Java

SPLaSHeS Of THe SeVeN WaVeS

ombak Tujuh, or Seven Waves, is a hidden beach in the Ujung Genteng Beach – a tourism zone in Sukabumi, West Java – six to seven hours away from Jakarta. The name already suggests how it might be an ideal spot for surfing: seven waves roll consecutively on the edge of the indian Ocean.

Ombak Tujuh is beautifully secluded. There is hard-ly any life there, let alone merchants passing along the beach selling things. This is possibly due to – oth-er than its location that is far from residential areas – the thrilling trip people have to go through just to reach it.

The trip starts from Ujung Genteng Beach, where explorers can rent fishermen’s boats. During this trip, tourists have to be mentally ready because the Rp 50,000 - Rp100,000 rental boats are about to face the high tides.

Another route requires visitors to ride an ojek (mo-torcycle taxi) through a rocky and steep road for

about one and a half hours. An important thing to note: tourists need to bring their own water and food, since there are no food vendors on the beach. Taking some time to camp and spend the night is an adven-ture that is highly recommended. l

Kampar River, Riau

ridiNG WiTH THe GHOSTS

Last November, a river surfing festival was held at the kampar River, Teluk Meranti Village around seven hours northeast of Pekan Baru. Did we just say river surfing? Yes, we did. it is said that there are only two rivers in the world that can accommodate river surfing: the Amazon River in South America and the kampar River in Pekanbaru, indonesia.

With waves similar to that of the sea – scientifically known as the Bono waves – the quality of the waves in the latter is arguably better than those in the former.

Bono is a natural phenomenon occurring from the confluence of two currents: the kampar River and the South Chinese Sea. Strong current comes through the estuary, forcing itself upstream for kilometers against another current. Naturally, the process produces wave-like, rideable tides.

Uniquely, in the kampar River, the confluence not only produces one wave, but seven; all occur synchronically at the speed of 40 kilometers per hour. Locals call this phenomenon Gelombang Tujuh Hantu – Waves of Sev-en Ghosts.

The 6-meter Bono usually occurs during the full moon between August and December. The highest waves oc-cur between November and February. l

KLayar, east Java• DaruPufwitaT

&T, 100 Perak Timur, Surabaya, Phone: +62-31-3550558

• HaryonoTour,27-29 Sulawesi Street, Surabaya, Phone: +62-31-5033000, Tour International Phone: +62-31-71000500

• PTAntaExpress, Bengawan Street, Darmo, Surabaya, Phone: +62-31-5662022

ombaK tuJuh,

West Java• Aerotravel

(Satriavi), Asia Africa Street 81, Bandung, phone: +62-22-4203657

• Panorama Tour, Sunda Street 76D, Bandung, Phone: +62-22-4208007

• Vayatour, Sunda Street 42, Bandung, Phone: +62-22-4261739

• Bayu Buana, Pasir Kaliki Street 150D, bandung, Phone: +62-22-4211711\

Kampar river, riau• Wirabhima Travel,

Sisingamangaraja Street 71, Pekanbaru, Phone: +62-761-32145, 33230

• Deli Indra Travel & Co., H. Juanda Street 109, Pekanbaru, Phone: +62-761-21169, 23091

• Mayang Sari Travel, Hasyim Ashari Street, Pekanbaru, Phone: +62-761-36725, 22201

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Exploring thE Earth’s CavityPhotos: Amston Probel, Text: Sunudyantoro

The BaraT cave TremBles inside The GomBonG selaTan karsT. The underGround river Thunders on iTs way, offerinG a challenGe for The spelunker.

Barat Cave, Kebumen, Central Java

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AFP PHOTO MALAYSIA OUT

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Tempo climbing the water hill in Barat Cave.

01

02

01

Columns of stone where stalactites and

stalagmites meet.

02

Barat Cave Kebumen

Cilacap

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The roaring sound of water in Barat Cave overwhelmed our ears. The water dashed with incessant reverberations, and allowed no room for other sounds. The dreadful gush of water came from a waterfall forcibly striking rows of karst stones. Then an impressive view followed: thousands of cubic meters

of rushing stream turning into sprinkles of water floating in the air like cotton. Carried by the pressure, the floating drops crossed over the surface of a small lake. All this was happening in a cave...

eight of us were enjoying the spectacle offered by nature with mixed feelings, in early October. We

were into our trek by some four kilometers when our group, composed of three Tempo journalists, four students of Atma Jaya University, Yogyakarta, and a resident of Kebumen regency, began exploring the cave in Jatijajar village, Ayah subdistrict, Kebumen. Now the trek had reached the opposite side of the waterfall. We were chilled to the bone in the cave’s passage where the underground lake flowed.

But the adventure was not yet over. The waterfall simply looked too inviting. Splash! Wahyudi Tapawira, a member of our group, suddenly plunged into the lake. he swam across, responding to the lure of the cascading streams. eight headlamps were beaming.

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Our beams penetrated darkness only to produce a very dim light.

Wahyudi swam strongly despite his boot-clad legs. The karabiners on his waist and rope around his left shoulder did nothing to hinder him either. This is understandable: Wahyudi has made forays into 50 caves all over Indonesia.

As he reached the rushing waterfall, Wahyudi grabbed hold of a boulder. he moved to the left, creeping vertically as high as three meters. The water here did not flow so fast. So he shifted to the right, heading towards a rougher current. In that split second, his body disappeared, engulfed in the gush. The rock above the lake blocked our view. But we could still detect his movements by the light of his lamp. The beam could be seen bobbing up and down, now to the left, now to the right.

After about half an hour, Wahyudi started to descend, hanging from a rope he had fastened to a semi-horizontal rock precisely above the eight-meter waterfall. he then drew the rope across the lake’s surface. “The water’s rush was so hard, it was

Barat is an underground-river cave, so it’s only safe

for exploration during the dry season

from May to October. One

kilometer from Barat is another cave,

Jatijajar, which has been open

for tourists since Dutch

colonial days.

when painful on my face,” Wahyudi said after he rejoined our group.

he asked if we wanted to try a climb up the hill of water. Some of us smiled blankly and shook our heads. Gabriela Setyaputri Noviani, 19, an Atma Jaya student, felt she wasn’t ready. But eka Pratama and Yusuf Syahputra, also from Atma Jaya, took the opportunity. They made their attempt at the spot known as Ulysses’ Jump. Ulysses is a courageous adventurer from Greek mythology.

While waiting for eka and Yusuf, Wahyudi talked about Barat’s extreme features. he told us, the real adventure begins only after we pass Ulysses’ Jump. Barat is the toughest of the caves he has explored. he said that about 20 meters from Ulysses’ Jump, there was a 32-meter waterfall. That one is called Superman’s Big Sister. he tackled it in August 2010.

Toward the upper reaches of Superman’s Big Sister, there’s a hole one-and-a-half meters wide that goes down into the earth’s crust. Wahyudi once went through it with a rope, following water streams. he spent 18 hours on that trek.

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Not far from the cave mouth there are four lodgings with rates between

Rp75,000-150,000 per night. There are several

hotels in Gombong, with rates between

Rp150,000-400,000.

accommo-daTion

The Barat Cave entrance.

Barat’s extreme features were also recounted by Cahyo Alkantana. Cahyo first explored the cave to almost as far as its end in 1996. he trekked through it with a team of French and Indonesians consisting of himself, Galih Prabowo, Agung Wijanarko, George Robert and Luc-henri Fage. In that adventure, they managed to survey the cave’s section they dubbed Muddy Passage. This spot is around 200 meters from the exit hole named Tataquine.

“On that foray, I didn’t sleep for three days,” Cahyo told Tempo at his house on Jalan Kenekan, Yogyakarta. The team had prepared well to face Barat’s challenges. They carried supplies of bread, chocolate and lontong (rice steamed in banana leaves) to sustain themselves.

Cahyo is currently president of the Indonesian Speleologists Association. his success penetrating Superman’s Big Sister was the talk of the world of spelunkers. earlier expeditions had failed to make it through the spot.

For instance, in December 1983, a Belgian team was only able to reach Superman’s Big Sister and then turn back. It was the same with a team from Britain that followed later. They all failed.

According to Cahyo, Barat has at least 100 waterfalls. The cascades are in the last two-kilometer section after Ulysses’ Jump as far as Muddy Passage. The waterfalls range from one to 32 meters in height. Cahyo, who has explored caves around the world, said, “Barat Cave is the toughest.” With Tempo looking on, he contacted Luc-henri Fage in France. he turned his cell phone’s speaker volume louder. At the other end Fage could be heard describing Gua Barat as a crazy passage. “It is the most exhausting cave,” he remarked. Cahyo said the

name Superman’s Big Sister came from the extreme current of the underground waterfall. he likened the noisiness of its gushing waters and the resultant strong winds to that made by three helicopters close to each other and ready to take off. The name Barat Cave also comes from its natural characteristics. Cahyo pointed out that strong gusts of wind are always blowing from inside the cave’s mouth. The cause is the difference in air pressure between inside the cave and the outside. The strong water currents also adds more wind. The Javanese word for wind is barat.

Ghufroni, 37, a local guide, agrees with Cahyo’s explanation. Ghufroni’s childhood home is located on the way towards the cave. As a child, the cave was his playground. The cave had always been called Barat because of those strong gusts emitting from it.

Barat Cave is in the karst geological zone of South Gombong. For those who crave non-mainstream tourist adventure, it would be pity to miss out on the tough beauty and wildness offered by this cave. A trip is worth it just for the stalagmites and stalactites alone. In one corner, one can see a clump of white stalagmites resembling a king’s throne, complete with altar. This has been named the keratonan.

Further inside, on almost every stalactite are beads of crystal that look like water just about to drop. There are also column stones where stalactites and stalagmites meet. And here and there are curtain columns, named thus because they closely resemble sharply-pleated curtains with pointy ends.

For spelunkers, the path to Ulysses’ Jump poses no extreme terrain. however, for the untrained Tempo team, the passage through the cave took considerable energy. We had to creep along some walls. In other parts, we were half-swimming to wade through chest-high water. In the first two to four kilometers, trekkers should exercise caution when passing the narrow gaps. every so often, we had to crouch our way through as the ceiling dipped low.

The cave is a kingdom for bats. In some domes, thousands of bats filled the ceiling, with their sharp tangy odor pervading the air. Other wildlife also thrives here. When we dipped our bare hands into the water, tiny freshwater shrimps ‘bit’ our fingers, producing a ticklish sensation.

Around two kilometers from the cave’s mouth, there’s a 200-meter blind passage forking to the right. At the end of this passage, one will encounter a knee-high mound of earth measuring two by three meters. Smack in the middle lies a boulder resembling a body. Near the part that looks like its head is a tombstone. Ghufroni said people

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from around there believe this to be the grave of Kiai Abdul Manaf, or Kiai Tunggul Nogo,who is said to have gone into seclusion.

Ghufroni related how followers of mysticism often made pilgrimages here, and they include would-be legislators, village chiefs and regional heads seeking blessings. “Tuesday evenings that fall on Wage (the fourth day of the Javanese five-day week) is seen as the best time to conduct a pilgrimage,” he noted.

For lovers of off-the-beaten-track tourism, a mystical artefact could surely serve as a means to expand one’s horizons. One could also consider it a bonus in the larger enjoyment of exploring Barat, which took us eight whole hours to complete.

Then it was time to go. With our water-logged boots, the going was heavy. By 5pm, we were back where we started, at the cave mouth exhaustion took its toll, to be expected after such a physical adventure. Yet there still seemed a lot of Barat’s mysteries to be solved. So Barat continues to beckon us, to make another foray, another discovery some time in the future. l

It takes three hours from Yogyakarta

to reach Barat Cave. Executive

Trains stop at the

Purwokerto Station. From Purwokerto

it takes an hour-and-a- half to reach the location. Business and

Economy trains stop at

the Gombong Station.

From Gombong

to the Barat Cave is 30 kilometers,

taking around 30 minutes by

land transport. There are

three-quarter buses that take visitors to the Jatijajar Cave terminal from

Gombong with fares at

Rp5,000.

rouTe

informaTion cenTer

Tourism OfficeCentral Java Provincial Culture and Tourism Office136 Pemuda Street, Semarang, Central JavaWebsite: www.central-java-tourism.com e-mail: tourism@central-java-tourism.com

Travel Agent

Sejahtera Tour & TravelKm. 09 Magelang-Yogya Street, Blabak, Mungkid, Central JavaPhone: +62-293 550 9307

Haryono Tour & Travel89 MH Thamrin Street, Semarang, Central JavaPhone: +62-24 844 4000

Kartika TourB 26 Cendrawasih Street, SemarangPhone: +62-24 354 4689

Nusantara TourSimpang Lima Store Blok C-6, Semarang, Central Java.Phone: +62-24 8442688

Panorama Tour & TravelHOS Cokroaminoto Street, terminal Sisemut Blok 41, Ungaran Barat, Central JavaPhone: +62-24 692 6329

Into TourImam Bonjol Street JCC Building, Semarang, Central JavaPhone: +62-24 3585616

Cahyo AlkantanaPhone: +62 811117010

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near JaTiJaJar cave

Barat Cave was only developed for special interest tourism last year. It is managed by the Jatijajar village administration, Ayah subdistrict, Kebumen regency.

The management provides caving equipment such as helmets, special suits, boots and headlamps, as well as guides. An exploration package applies to a maximum of 10 people at the rate of Rp300,000 per person. Eleven local guides are ready to accompany visitors.

From Jakarta, visitors can reach the location by air via Yogyakarta. They can choose professional guides from Yogyakarta or local guides in Kebumen. The rate for a guide from Yogyakarta is around Rp1 million. This fee does not include car rent and meals and board and lodgings. From Yogyakarta it takes three hours to arrive at Barat Cave.

Going by executive train from Jakarta, Yogyakarta, or Surabaya, visitors can stop at the Purwokerto station. From here, it takes about an hour and a half to reach the location. Those going by business and economy trains can stop at the Gombong station.

Not far from the cave mouth, there are four residential houses. There, rooms can be rented for Rp75,000 to Rp150,000 per night. Several hotels can be found in Gombong for Rp150,000 to Rp400,000 per night.

From Gombong to Barat is 30 kilometers, which takes around 30 minutes by motor vehicle. There are also three-quarter buses carrying passengers to the terminal of Gua Jatijajar at the cost of Rp5,000 from Gombong.

Barat is an underground-river cave, so it’s only safe for exploration during the dry season from May to October. One kilometer from Barat is another cave, Jatijajar, which has been open to tourists since the Dutch colonial period. In the Jatijajar complex, there are also the Dempok and Intan Caves. l

Location: Jatijajar village,

Ayah district, Kebumen,

Central Java.

Length of cave already

mapped: Six kilometers

Height of passages:

up to 73 meters

Height of location: 250 meters above

sea level

Distance from Kebumen

capital city: 42 kilometers to the southwest

Distance from nearest city, Gombong, Kebumen

regency: 30 kilometers

Map of Barat: (can be found by Googling ‘Gua Barat’)

daTa

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a bright curtain of light shines through the leaves of Inga and Banyan trees at the entrance of the cave, presenting a panoramic view. This is Cave Grubug, a natural cave located in Jetis Wetan, Pacarejo Village in the sub-district of Semanu, Gunungkidul Regency, Yogyakarta.

Looking up, various ferns grow on the lips of the cave’s mouth. Two giant karsts greeted

Grubug-Jomblang, Yogyakarta

thUnDEr in thE MonstroUs BarrEl

Tempo, three cave explorers from the Indonesian Speleology Activity Society (hIKeSPI) and a Semanu local. Now, we were at the back of the rock. Standing on it, the cave looked a lot like a monstrous barrel.

here, you will hear a thundering sound, like that of a water stream. Water dropping from the walls of the cave adds more noise to the thundering sound of the hollow cave. In Javanese, this reverberating

Kotamadya Yogyakarta Kab. Gunung Kidul

Goa Grubug

Wonosari

GruBuk – JomBlanG,

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144

sound of water is called grubug. Apparently, this is how the cave was named.

Cave Grubug is connected with Cave Jomblang through a 200-meter corridor. At the bottom of Cave Jomblang, an ancient forest stretches as far as quarter of a soccer field. here grows a special tree with fruits that look like cayenne pepper. There are also palm trees with serrated and holey leaves; some other look like butterfly wings.

For travelers who like new challenges, these two caves are worth a visit. l

Pute, South Sulawesi

DoWn thE stEEp WhitE Wall

leang Pute or Cave Pute is a vertical 273-meter-high, 50-meter-wide cave that breaks through the soil of Bantimurung Bulusaraung National Park in Pattiro, Labuaja Village in the Maros Regency, South Sulawesi. The cave derives its name from the local language: leang means cave, while pute white. True to its name, the

wall of the cave is white. Cave Pute was found by an english expedition team

in the ‘80s; an Indonesian one followed thereafter. To reach the bottom of the cave, explorers must use the single rope technique (SRT) and need at least 45 minutes. Physical strength is very important. One time, an explorer fainted at the bottom of the cave from fatigue.

“This cave puts one’s adrenaline and mentality to the test,” said Wahyudi Tapawira, an Indonesian Speleology Activity Society (hIKeSPI) explorer, last October. Wahyudi explored Leang Pute with 60 other people in 2009.

On its sandy bottom, eucalyptus and ironwood grow. Water runs in one corner of the cave. The cliff is rocky. “I have to crawl down,” said Wahyudi.

Leang Pute has a terrace, which is called Cave Dinosaur. With an opening of 80 meters, light shines through to the bottom of the cave, where ferns and shrubs grow. l

Binaiya, Maluku

Most ChallEnging JoUrnEy

cave Binaiya in the North Seram District, Central Maluku Regency in Seram Island, Maluku has at least 24 cave entrances. Located in Mount Binaiya that is 3,035 meters above sea level, the cave’s opening is at the height of 2,172 meters. About two to seven meters deep, this ornament-lacking

vertical cave is relatively shallow. Cave Binaiya is located within the Binaiya karst

zone. Unlike most caves in Java that are warm, Binaiya is chilly thanks to its damp environment. Flocks of sriti birds – some kind of swallow birds – nest here. The group of caves itself is not challenging;

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BinaYiYa, maluku

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the most challenging part is to reach it. Satu Bumi, Gadjah Mada University’s School

of engineering’s nature explorer team, has experienced just that. From eight explorers going on the journey, only three – hilary Reinhart, Shabrina Tamimi and Rahmad Suyudi – reached the cave.

At that time, the team departed from Ambon to Masohi, the capital of Central Maluku Regency. From Masohi, the journey continued to Manusela National Park before reaching Negeri Kanikeh, the last village before getting to the peak of Binaiya. The journey from Manusela to Negeri Kanikeh took five days. “Before climbing Binaiya, the team was blessed by a local elder,” said Reinhart.

Six more days were spent, as they had to pass through many terrains – rivers, knee-deep mud and vast jungles, where bushes and mosses cover the soil’s surface – to reach the peak. Given these obstacles, getting to the mouth of the cave will give, without a doubt, an incomprehensible satisfaction. l

Tewet, East Kalimantan

trail oF thE anCiEnt hanDprints

at least 200 ancient paintings adorn Cave Tewet that is located in the Sangkulirang-Mangkalihat karst zone in the Tepian Langsat Village, Bengalon District in east Kutai, east Kalimantan. They are of many different patterns; some are handprints in red, brown and black. Scientists commonly call them

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• BorneoTour&Travel(Balikpapan), Mr. Joko (+62811545793), e-mail: tborneo@indo.net.id

• HoneyTour, Endang Gunawan (+628176941777), Zikri (+6281802156188), Herdi (+6281995194009)

146

rock art paintings. These paintings are predicted to date back to

10,000 years. According to Adi Kusumo, a cave explorer from the Indonesian Speleology Activity Society (hIKeSPI), the people of Tepian Langsat Village believe that the handprints represent their relationship with the spirits of their ancestors.

Tewet is a horizontal cave with its roof shaping like a dome. It takes 15 hours from Balikpapan to reach the village nearest to it. From the village, visitors have to use ketinting boat to get there.

Tewet once attracted Luc-henri Fage, a French cave explorer, and Pindi Setiawan from Bandung Institute of Technology’s School of Fine Arts, to study it between 1988 and 1999.

According to the locals, Tewet is the name of the first person who found the cave in 1964. l

Salukkan Kallang, South Sulawesi

MothEr oF UnDErgroUnD rivErs

located in the Kappang Village, Bantimurung District in the Maros Regency, South Sulawesi, Salukkan Kallang is a stream of underground rivers situated in the Bantimurung Bulusaraung National Park area, not far from the Makassar-Maros-Bone highway.

One of the mouths of the cave – at 20 meters wide and 150 meters deep – is located at the entrance of Kappang Village. Sloping at 15 degrees, Salukkan Kallang’s extreme point is at the first mouth or K1. Other cave mouths are K2, K3 and K4.

In local Makassar language, salukkan kallang means dark corridor. explorers may enter the cave only in the dry season, because according to Wahyudi Tapawire, a cave explorer from the Indonesian Speleology Activity Society (hIKeSPI), there is a risk of flood in the rainy season.

Inside the cave, explorers will find a five-meter waterfall. Nevertheless, this is not the only one. A 40 to 50-meter waterfall can be found in one of the big cavities inside the cave, while another five-meter

These paintings are predicted to date back to

10,000 years.

at a different corner has a six-meter-wide pond at its landing.

At 12.6 kilometers long, Salukkan Kallang is the longest cave in South Sulawesi, safe to say that it is the mother of all underground rivers in Maros’ karst zone. In 2010, the Bantimurung Bulusaraung National Park’s natural cave identification and mapping team recorded a total of 19 caves in the area. l

Salukkan kallanG,

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A cave looks out upon a remote lagoon near the island of Misool in Raja Ampat, Indonesia. This area is known for its spectacular marine biodiversity and great scuba diving.

148

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Larantuka’s March of LaMentationSemanaSanta or eaSter holy Week, iS a time citizenS of larantuka in eaSt floreS look forWard to. on good friday, the Whole toWn and thouSandS of touriStS carry the maria doloroSa Statue, alSo knoWn aS the Virgin mary of lament. the proceSSion moVeS around toWn, commemorating the final dayS of JeSuS chriSt, With thouSandS of hand-held candleS.

Easter Procession, Flores, East Nusa Tenggara

Photo: Dwianto Wibowo, Text: Seno Joko Suyono

Flores, East Nusa Tenggara

Sewu Sea

Lanrantuka

Solor Island

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AFP PHOTO MALAYSIA OUT

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c u l t u r ec u l t u r e

Pilgrims in the Maria Mater Dolorosa parade in Larantuka, East Flores, East Nusa Tenggara. H

er eyes seem slightly swollen. A vertical scar goes down her face. From the right of the forehead the scratch dips to the eyebrow all the way down the cheek and ends up to the left of the chin. This makes her countenance seem about to crack. Her lips are pursed. Her nose is aquiline. Brownish spots speckle

her cheeks and forehead.This is the face of Maria Dolorosa, the Mourning

Mother Mary, the beloved of Larantuka, east Flores. There is a grace to the face: the expression of a simple Mediterranean maiden. She seems lost in deep sorrow. It seems as if she has just stopped weeping, and if you press a hankie to her eyes, it will come away damp. She stands with lost, empty look.

A robe embroidered with silvery white blossoms covers her body, standing one-and-a-half meters tall. The way the cloth falls also embodies a deep sadness. Underneath, we do not know whether the body inside the cloth has deteriorated or not.

The origins of the statue is a mystery. Where it came from and when it arrived in Larantuka—capital

of east Flores regency—no one knows for certain. Some say that the statue of Mary was washed ashore the Ae Kongga beach. Many Portuguese ships in the 16th century capsized in Flores waters. Maybe from the many stranded vessels, some objects were washed ashore, one of which was the statue of Mary.

If the story is true, the scratch disfiguring her face may have been caused by waves that dashed the figure on some rocks. Another story tells of the statue’s mysterious appearance on a shore, long before any Portuguese missionary ever stepped foot on the island.

The statue of Maria Dolorosa is revered as sacred by the citizens of Larantuka. She is the sweetheart of Larantukans, their spiritual guide. Once a year during easter Holy Week (Semana Santa), the statue is taken out from the Chapel of Tuan Ma, where it is kept. On October 2010 there was a 500th anniversary celebration of the statue. But before it could be carried to the Cathedral, a debate ensued. Some of the faithful were afraid to bring into view the Maria Dolorosa outside the easter season, fearing it

152

would transgress tradition.The level of devotion to an icon of Maria Dolorosa is

rare. Almost anywhere in the world, easter is marked by a procession of the Stations of the Cross of Jesus. Commemorating the Mourning Mary is only to be found in Larantuka. The whole town is plunged into a wave of lamentations every Good Friday—when the procession of Maria Dolorosa takes place. The entire town sinks into the self-same sorrow emitted by the icon of Mary. It’s as if even the very ocean breeze oozes sadness, a memory of suffering, surrender and self-submission to ‘something unseen’.

ON GOOD Friday at 7pm starting from the Larantuka Cathedral where a huge congregation has gathered, the procession begins. The statue of Mary is carried around town together with a casket. This casket is part and parcel of the whole ritual. It, too, is only taken into public view once a year. The

two icons are kept in separate places. Mary’s statue

is kept in a teakwood cabinet behind the altar of the Tuan Ma Chapel, while the casket is kept in the Tuan Ana Chapel, located on the same street about one kilometer away.

residents of Larantuka call the statue of Mary Tuan Ma, and the casket Tuan Ana. Like its counterpart, the casket is also shrouded in mystery. The antique casket has never been opened for hundreds of years. What is inside no one knows. As to where it came from is taboo to be discussed. A belief is, if anyone dares to try open it, they will instantly fall dead.

At 7pm on that night, devotees will have thronged the Cathedral yard. everyone is clad in black, carrying candles with them. The women wear black kebaya adorned with motifs of black crucifixes. On that one night, one gets a feel of how deeply Larantukans sink into moroseness. The atmosphere is gripping as waves of prayers are recited back and forth.

On Good Friday night, if we are lucky enough to be able to see the face of the Virgin Mary, people say we can see her sorrow growing ever deeper. She gives off a vibration that goes all the way to the person in

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the farthest back. The town turns deathly quiet, not a single sound can be heard, no vrooming motorbikes nor people’s chitchat—all is replaced by pure incantations of prayer.

One gets a feeling that this is no ritual imported from elsewhere, but rather one that grew from deep within, from the very cultural fabric that makes up Larantuka. It came from the sweat of the farmers and the blood clots of the fishing folk of that town. All down the road, as the procession passes, to the left and to the right people open the doors of their houses. On each porch small tables are laden with flowers.

At procession’s head, a man beats the mourning drum, called the genda do, in sedate rhythm. The pounding is melancholic and goes deep, the only living sound in that dark night. Behind the drummer, a group of children carry a black cross, lemon grass and two big candles, while another group carries a depiction of a human skeleton.

This indeed is a theater of death. Next comes a group of children carrying the tools of torture used against Christ: the krenti (chain), the krona spina (crown of thorns), three big hammers, and a handful of nails. They also bring a stick and sponge dipped in vinegar to be given to Jesus so he can die unconscious, and the spear that ripped his side. A jar symbolizes the hypocrisy of Pontius Pilate, the representative of the roman emperor in Jerusalem

who handed over Jesus to the Jews. There is also a plywood depiction of a cockerel, to represent Peter the disciple who betrayed Jesus and had him arrested.

The casket of Tuan Ana is carried by four persons. They are in the white robes of the Portuguese in the Middle Ages with conical red caps. Their faces are covered, with a small opening to allow their eyes to see. These are people who have made a special vow, typically coming from out of Larantuka, maybe from Jakarta or elsewhere in Indonesia, and even from abroad.

They are in the role of Nicodemus who lowered Jesus from the cross and buried him on Mount Golgotha. Nicodemus was a member of the Pharisee Council who secretively adhered to the Master’s teachings. He brought myrrh and fragrant ointments with which he embalmed Christ’s body and wrapped him in a linen shroud. Local Larantukan articulation has turned his name into Lakademo.

Prior to carrying the casket from the Cathedral, in the afternoon before the procession begins, the Lakademos stage some dramatic theater in the Larantuka cemetery. They weave among the graves and pilgrims thronging the place. Approaching easter, the cemeteries in Larantuka are jam-packed by pilgrims. relatives of the deceased come to clear the weeds and decorate the tombstones. Candles are burnt. And among the crowds, the Lakademos

HOtels and

cuisines

Larantuka does not have many hotels,

so you have to book the rooms ahead of time.

Hotel tariffs are around

Rp200,000-300,000 per night. Tariffs include bread

or cakes as well as a cup

of coffee or tea for breakfast. If you do not

get rooms, you can stay with the residents.

Some convents are ready to open their

doors for out-of-town guests

during the Semana Santa

days.

Fish is an important

delicacy in this town. Non-fish

menus are also available

in many restaurants.

Larantuka has some Padang restaurants.

The price for meals are

pretty low: Rp15,000-

20,000.

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The statue of Maria Dolorosa

make their way, first to the center of the cemetery and then to each of the tombs.

At the procession, each time they stop, the procession, snaking behind them for more than a kilometer long, also stops. There are eight stops, each lasting a few minutes, called the armida. Armida symbolizes the stations on the Way of the Cross—Jesus’ trail of agony to the peak of Golgotha. Christian tradition has 14 stations, the Larantukans only eight.

At each armida, a young girl clad in blue chants the O vos.

O vos omnes qui transitis per viamO all you who pass by on the road

Her voice is heartfelt, as if this is the only voice allowed by the Lord at that moment. The whole procession is bound in silence. However far one is, the sound carries into the soul. As she sings, the young girl slowly unscrolls a painting of Jesus wearing the crown of thorns. The young maid turns to face the pilgrims in all directions, pointing to the face of Christ. Ecce Homo! Look at this man!

Attendite et videte: Si est dolor sicut dolor meuspay attention and see:If there be any sorrow like my sorrow

each time the O vos comes to an end, a member of the Confreria—a lay confraternity—revolves a wooden apparatus that produces a loud creaking

sound, to bring home to the procession the sound of nails being pounded into the palms and soles of Jesus. The pilgrims ponder on the agony of Jesus as he is being crucified, the blood pouring from his hands and feet. each time the procession makes an armida stop, a priest makes a blessing of the cross, while the pilgrims respond in hymns of repentance: Lord, have mercy on us, have mercy on us, and fall down on their knees on the street.

Misericordia Senhor Deus, misericordiaHave mercy, Lord God, have mercy

An interesting part of the procession, as witnessed by Tempo, is when women with veils on their heads walk by carrying aloft a large black cloth over their heads. They shake the cloth to make waves. They symbolize the Women of Jerusalem, the only group who dared show their condolences over Christ’s death. They are the metamorphosis of Mary Magdalene, Mary the Cleophas, and Mary the mother of James, one of the disciples, who during Jesus’ walk to Golgotha had the courage to cry out in the crowd making the roman soldiers feel ashamed. When Mary Magdalene even went so far as to embrace the crucifix, the soldiers did not prevent her.

Es Domine, Es Salvator nosterYou, O Lord, You are our Savior

Pupilli facti sumus absque patrematres nostrae quasi viduaeWe have become orphans, fatherless,Our mothers are like widows

The women make unprecedented movements. They zigzag to the left, to the right, stagger to and fro and push their way through the crowd.

The Procession of the Maria

Dolorosa statue is held on Friday, but the rites of the

whole Holy Week begins on the Trewa

on Wednesday, one day before

the Maundy Thursday

so try to get there before

the Trewa Wednesday

or at least Maundy

Thursday.

Besttime

infOrmatiOn center

Tourism OfficeEast Nusa Tenggara Province Culture and Tourism Board72 El Tari Main Road 2nd, Kupang-East Nusa Tenggara e-mail: disbudparprovntt@yahoo.comwebsite: www.govisitntt.com

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155

c u l t u r e

Sometimes they wrap themselves in the long cloth. And then, as if rebelling against the oppression, they run around screaming wildly, some even in a trance.

tO understand the Semana Santa, it’s better to have arrived before Good Friday, at least two days before the procession. Hotels may be fully booked because Larantuka has very few hotels and inns. But you can always stay with residents. Some convents generously set aside spare rooms for pilgrims. Of course

it is advisable to contact them beforehand rather than make an impromptu request. Staying with locals will help guests understand the inner emotions of the devotees.

Take a walk through the streets of the little town. Larantuka is a town of chapels. At all corners of the town there are petite houses of worship. Many homes have their own prayer rooms. Many stories of miracles abound related to these chapels. Go to the wharf. Look at the boats and sampans. Go see how the people join hands to plant wooden planks and tie horizontal bamboo laths for candle-stands throughout the route of procession.

On White Thursday, elderly women bathe the statue of Virgin Mary. All day until dawn on Friday, the faithful wait patiently to get some of water used to clean the statue. Thousands of people line up all the way down to the shore. One by one, they go down on their knees, touch and kiss the feet of the Virgin Mary. They take turns to make their permesa—request. In the chapels, the mama muji, or praying mothers,

There are many ways to get to Larantuka. Located on the southern coast of East Flores—one of the regencies of East Nusa Tenggara province—the town can be reached by land, sea and air. Take a flight with a stopover at Kupang, Timor. Then take local flights by Transnusa and Susi Air. Kupang-Larantuka is around Rp650,000.

Another way through Frans Seda Airport in Maumere, Sikka regency—around 100 kilometers from Larantuka. From Maumere, take an intercity bus which will charge you Rp50,000 per seat. You can also rent a car. The price is around Rp650,000. The land trip from Maumere to Larantuka will take around 4 hours.

If you want to enjoy marine tourism, board one of the Pelni ships (www.pelni.co.id, hotline 62-21-7980606), and get down to the Maumere wharf or go straight to the Larantuka wharf. Another alternative is a sea-trip by ferry, with tickets at Rp200,000 per person, 8-10 hours.

Tourists from Jakarta should pre-order a Semana Santa package—the Easter Holy Week package—through Sabda Tour. The holy week package covers six days, costing Rp8.5 million per person. This tour will include a trip to the old church in Sikka, to the three-colored lakes in Ende ,and to seminaries in Flores. The tour Contact numbers: 62-21-6328864, 081380205069.

HOw tO get tHere:

recite prayers continuosly in broken Portuguese which even the Portuguese don’t understand. They make request for the safety and well-being of Larantuka.

In the meantime, in the Cathedral, the Confreria clad in white robes with the Saint Dominic medal on their necks sing the lament of Prophet Jeremiah:

“The streets of Zion are full of sorrow...and the Choir responds: Jerusalem, Jerusalem, go back to God your Lord...”

On Friday morning, the worshippers carry the statue of Mary from the Chapel of Tuan Ma to the Cathedral. It is from here that the main procession starts. And it is from here that your legs are apparently pulled by a mystic power.

You will simply follow where the devotion moves. If on the next morning, you begin to feel pain all over your body, take a shower and relax. Take a cup of coffee. Your tired body will be refreshed. rush to the street and breathe the fresh Saturday morning air. You can see that the atmosphere in Larantuka has gradually changed after the mournful procession.

On Saturday morning, a catharsis will seem to have taken place. Larantuka will have gone back into normalcy. everywhere, people will be singing out the Maria Hallelujah, altering the mournful atmosphere into one of soaring joy.

The change in the air is kind of thrilling and will linger in your heart, even for a Moslem like myself. l

156

Men are waiting for the casket that contains the statue of Jesus from the

Tuan Meninu chapel during the sea procession in

Kuce Coast, Larantuka, East Flores, East Nusa Tenggara, as part of the

armida in the Good Friday celebration.

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c u l t u r e

Sentani Festival, Papua

PartY on the Lake

in the Cycloops Mountain Nature reserve, around 30 kilometers from the city of Jayapura, lies an attraction so picturesque and mystical: the Sentani Lake. With a width of 245,000 acres, it is as calm and steady as a giant bowl of oil. Green islands emerge from the blue water surface. This is where the five-

day Sentani Festival takes place every year since 2008.

Aiming to promote the rich cultures of the tribes surrounding the lake, the Kalkhote Beach in the Ohei Village, east Sentani became the center of the event. This location can be reached in 15 minutes by car from the Sentani Airport.

Nineteen districts in the Jayapura regency took part in the festival. On land and lake, a series of cultural attractions took place, from dance and musical performances to an exhibition of bark art. A variety of Sentani’s signature cuisines were also featured.

The peak of event was the dance performed by

hundreds of local young men on a boat adorned with palm leaves. Clad in Sentani’s traditional attire, they danced carrying crops and bushmeat. Having circled the lake for about 10 minutes, they stepped out of the boat still dancing and cheering.

Another much-awaited attraction was the alligator dance, where the male dancers trotted to the arena carrying a big crocodile that is tied to a log. The female dancers, carrying small alligators, accompanied them. l

Lamalera, Lembata Island, East Nusa Tenggara

sacreD WhaLe offerinG

the tradition of capturing whales in Lamalera on the Lembata Island, east Nusa Tenggara has existed for centuries. Held annually between May and October, it is believed the tradition began in the 1500s as the fishermen of Lamalera built their first settlement in the southernmost corner of

Lembata. The locals do not hunt the whales; they wait

for them to pass instead. “They capture only sperm whales – not other kinds – in the waters near Lamalera,” said 48-year-old Bona Beding, a Lamalera local who works in publication.

The meat of the captured whales is shared with every villager; all 3,000 of them. The meat is deemed as an offering from the village to the widows, the poor and the orphans, who get their shares before anyone else does. After all villagers receive their shares of meat, the rest will be traded for basic commodities, such as corn and rice. It may also be sold to pay for school tuition or to buy other necessities.

The Lamalera fishermen use peledang, a traditional wooden sailboat. The rope used to capture the whales is woven from the leaves of the gebang tree and the trunk fibers of waru. To capture the giant mammals, the matros or whale catchers will use leo, a sacred rope.

The rope is made of spun cotton, covered with the sap from turi plant – a type of hummingbird tree – which is then dried. After it is used, the leo roll is kept in a special chamber in the traditional house. l

sentani festival,

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Travel, 22 A Yani Street, Jayapura, Phone: +62-967-31403, 82805

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158

Cisolok, Sukabumi, West Java

PraYers to the GoDs

seren Taun, a traditional Sundanese harvest festival, used to be held annually across the villages in West Java. Today, however, only a few of them do; one of which is the Sirnaresmi Village in Kasepuhan Bantun Kidul, Kampung Ciptagelar.

Part of the Cisolok District, Sukabumi, Ciptagelar is 44 kilometers away from Pelabuhan ratu. Since 1383, the settlement – sheltered by the Halimun Mountain National Park – holds the Seren Taun ritual as a sign of gratitude for the crops harvested.

In this village, hundred-year ancestral traditions live on. When building a house, for instance, locals would only use ijuk, or palm fibers. Hence, celebrating the harvest festival in early August or September too require specific protocols, which can only be led by the indigenous chief, who today is Ugi Sugriana rakasiwi, or Abah Ugi.

The ceremony’s main programs include presenting God with crops from the previous year and ask for blessings. During the ceremony, all men are dressed in black. The women, on the other hand, are dressed in kebaya – an Indonesian traditional outfit – and long scarves. Guests come from near and far places to enjoy various traditional art performances such as calung show, jipeng musical performance, jaipong dance and wayang golek (traditional puppet show).

The event peaks with the processional delivering of rice to a traditional granary. Prayers were also delivered to Nyi Pohaci or Dewi Sri, the goddess of fertility and Prabu Siliwangi, ancestor of the Bantun Kidul people. Seren Taun is also held as an annual customary assembly led by Abah Ugi. l

Papua

WorLD cLass art of the sWaMP

when Michael rockefeller, the son of former Governor of New York Nelson rockefeller, went missing in the area during his 1961 expedition, Asmat suddenly took center stage. Located south of Papua facing the Arafuru Sea, Asmat is famous for its complex

wood carving arts. For centuries, the tribe produces war-related artworks like shields, spears, ancestral sculptures, tifa (wooden drum), canoes and oars.

Carving is a way for the Asmat people to maintain their connection with the spirits of their ancestors. The carvings are believed to possess magical powers. You can witness the tribe’s rich culture in the Asmat Festival, which is held in Agats, the capital of Asmat regency, on the second week of every October.

Held since 1981, the festival is well-attended by the best carvers, dancers and musicians from all districts. Mgr Alfons Sowada, the bishop of Agats, is the man behind the festival. Together, the diocese of Agats and the local government strive make the festival happen.

UNeSCO’s recognition of Asmat as one of the world’s heritages has improved its charm. Yet, limited access still provides an obstacle. Swampy and muddy ground makes this area reachable only by air from Jakarta or Bali via Timika. From there, the flight continues with a small plane to ewer Airport, a gate to Asmat. The rest of the route can be reached in 15 minutes by speedboat. l

cisOlOk , sukaBumi, west Java• Aerotravel

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• Vayatour, 42 Sunda Street, bandung, Phone: +62-22-4261739

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andTravel.Tujuh Maret-Lewoleba Street. Phone: +62-0383- 41311.

• LodanDoroToursandTravel. Trans Lembata-Lewoleba Street. Phone: +62-0383- 41028.

• LembataMandiriIntiJasaTama,Trans Lembata-Wangatoa –Lewoleba Street, Phone: +62-0383-41068.

PaPua• NatrabuTours

&Travel,1 Batukarang Street, Jayapura, Papua, Phone: +62-967- 35613

• PapuaAdventureT&T(Papua),Mr. Gantang (+62817364243, +6281344628586), e-mail: info@papuaadventure.com, info@papuaholidays.com

• HoneyTour, Endang Gunawan (+628176941777), Zikri (+6281802156188), Herdi (+6281995194009)

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Asmat with a traditional painting on a face, in a cap from cassowary feathers in Jow Village, Asmat province, Indonesia

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Ulun Danu temple Beratan Lake in Bali Indonesia