IT’S DELHI!

THE FASTEST-GROWINGDEMOCRACYIN THE WORLDTODAY, India istransforming at anastonishing pace froma developing countryinto a global power-house. As the capital ofthis burgeoning nation,Delhi is at the forefrontof these changes. Its newprosperity and proximity toRajasthan and one of thewonders of the modern world,the Taj Mahal, makes it a city primed for travellersseeking a luxurious yet stimulating getaway.

Aman Suite in the nine-storey Aman New Delhi. Unique in a multi-storey resort, all 31 Aman Rooms and eight Aman Suitesfeature private plunge pools.

[ ]THE TAJ MAHALAn enduring symbol of love,the Taj Mahal is the townof Agra’s main attraction –a two-hour train ride fromDelhi. Declared a UNESCOWorld Heritage Site in 1983,the monument is one of theglobe’s most recognisablebuildings, yet no matter howoften you’ve seen it in print,nothing can compare toseeing the Taj Mahal in theflesh. Rising 35 metresabove a massive squareplinth, the Taj was built byMughal emperor Shah Jahanin memory of his beloved

third wife, Mumtaz Mahal,who died in 1631. Twenty-two years later – with thehelp of 20,000 workers and1,000 elephants – his master-piece was finally complete.

The Taj is still as beautifultoday. With nothing behindit but the Yamuna River, theentire edifice appears tofloat on the horizon. Upclose, its sheer size isoverwhelming – its detail,astounding. Famous forchanging colour with thetime of day, the monumentglows lily white at dawn,burnished gold at middayand rose pink at dusk.

ROYAL BENGALTIGERSOne of the most beautifulanimals in the world, theRoyal Bengal Tiger is alsoone of the most endangered.Its striped coat marked it

out as a huntsman’s prize indays gone by, but thankfullytoday the only shots beingtaken at India’s nationalanimal are photographs –at least in game reserveswhere it is protected.

Rajasthan’s RanthamboreNational Park is where onecan witness tigers in theirnatural environment – living

wild as nature intended.The former hunting groundof the Maharajahs of Jaipur,this 392km2 park is located130km from Jaipur. Apartfrom tigers, a safari intoRanthambore also offers theopportunity to spot leopards,sloth bears, chital deer andup to 350 species of birds.

INDIANWEDDINGSFilled with tradition, Indianweddings are festive affairsthat last several days. Towitness or participate in suchan event would be to expe-rience one of the world’s mostjoyful nuptial celebrations.

An Indian weddinginvolves the entire commu-nity, with up to 10,000guests! Marriages are usuallyarranged, but love matchesdo occur. There are a numberof common wedding tradi-tions, despite India’s meltingpot of cultures. In the leadup to the wedding day,events include the ‘mehendi’party when the bride’s handsare painted with hennapatterns, and ‘sangeet’ whenthe bride’s family throwsan evening of musicalentertainment. On themorning of the wedding,an important ritual is ‘haldi’

– the cleansing ceremonyfor both bride and groomwhich involves being pastedwith turmeric powder. Theactually marriage ceremonygenerally takes place in a‘mandap’ or tent, beautifullydecorated with marigolds.An unforgettable sight isthe groom arriving on awhite horse bedecked inred, white and gold – justlike the hero of a fairytale.Weddings are usually heldfrom November throughApril, and during thesemonths, it is common tosee grooms on their steedsstopping traffic as they make

their grand way to meettheir bride, surrounded byattendants. (Aman-i-Khás’manager and groom of 2007Gerhard pictured above.)

HOLIOne of the most eye-catching, photogenic andenjoyable of all India’sholidays, Holi is a literalriot of colour, fun and games.The challenge is to keepyour camera dry, as thosecelebrating in the city streetsthrow coloured powderand water at each other –and everyone is fair game!

A festival celebratingspring, Holi is held on thelast full moon day of thelunar month ‘Phalguna’,which usually falls in thelatter part of February orMarch each year (20thMarch 2011). Bonfires areusually lit the day before in memory of a legendary

escape: Prahlad, a staunchdevotee of the god Vishnu,went unscathed in a burningpyre while his demonesssister, Holika, was burnt todeath. Prahlad representsgood, while his sister is asymbol of evil – a key themethroughout the festival.

SPICE OF LIFEIndian cuisine is known forits complexity of flavoursand, of course, its heat. Onecan enjoy it the world over,but there is nothing likeindulging in an authenticIndian meal – whether amasala dosa (breakfast crepestuffed with spiced potatoes),roadside samosa, or Raja-sthani thali (a selection ofdifferent dishes served insmall bowls on a round tray).While every region has itsown distinct fare based on cultural and religiouspractices, certain ingredientssuch as rice and lentils arestaples. But it is the sub-continent’s spices thatmake Indian food unique.

The most frequentlyused spices are chilli pepper,black mustard seeds, cumin,turmeric, fenugreek, ginger,coriander and garlic. Popularspice mixes are known asgaram masala – a powderthat typically includes fiveor more dried spices. Eachregion, and sometimeseach individual chef, has adistinctive blend of garammasala. Desserts are usuallyseasoned with cardamom,nutmeg, saffron and rosepetal essences. •

AMAN GUIDE

For reservations email reservations@amanresorts.com • Aman Sales & Reservations Tel: (94) 77 774 3500 Fax: (94) 11 237 2193 • www.amanresorts.com

*Toll-free 24-hour service (use international access code). GDS Code: Use ‘IQ’ for Amadeus, Abacus, Galileo, Sabre & Worldspan.ASIA-PACIFIC: Australia 0011 800 2255 2626* • Hong Kong 800 908 502* • India 00080 0650 1671* • Indonesia 001 803 65 1626*

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AMANRESORTS offers 23 resorts in 14 countries – Bhutan, Cambodia, China, France, India, Indonesia, Laos, Montenegro, Morocco, the Philippines, Sri Lanka, Thailand, the Turks & Caicos Islands and the United States of America.

A WORLD IN ONE COUNTRY

“So far as I am able to judge, nothing has been left undone, either by man or nature, to make India the most extraordinary

country that the sun visits on his rounds. Nothing seems to have been forgotten, nothing overlooked.”

– Mark Twain

It’s Delhi ! • Five Encounters of a Lifetime Trains, Planes, Automobiles and Trishaws Rugged Rajasthan • Retail Therapy

DESTINATION: INDIAINCLUDING

IT’S DELHI!

THE FASTEST-GROWINGDEMOCRACYIN THE WORLDTODAY, India istransforming at anastonishing pace froma developing countryinto a global power-house. As the capital ofthis burgeoning nation,Delhi is at the forefrontof these changes. Its newprosperity and proximity toRajasthan and one of thewonders of the modern world,the Taj Mahal, makes it a city primed for travellersseeking a luxurious yet stimulating getaway.

Aman Suite in the nine-storey Aman New Delhi. Unique in a multi-storey resort, all 31 Aman Rooms and eight Aman Suitesfeature private plunge pools.

DESTINATION: INDIA

selling saris, lassis, bangles and incense – the list goeson. But despite being the largest trading centre ofNorth India, Chandni Chowk is just a tiny corner ofthe capital which is divided into nine huge districts.Guide books further divide Delhi into 36 areas andOld Delhi is just one of them. Nonetheless, Old Delhi’sfew square kilometres hold a fair number of Delhi’s1,200 heritage buildings and 175 monuments regardedas national heritage sites. Old Delhi is also home totwo World Heritage Sites, including the Red Fort andQutab Minar. The capital’s third World Heritage Site,Humayun’s Tomb, lies in New Delhi.

The eighth city built in the Delhi region (the countstarts with the fabled city of Indraprastha), New Delhior Lutyens’ Delhi was built by the British after theymoved their capital from Calcutta in 1911. Sir EdwardLutyens did a grand old job of laying out a spaciouscity of broad boulevards, elegant parks and regal buildings. When entering New Delhi you’ll soon findyourself driving past pristine white bungalows in leafy grounds towards the iconic India Gate, its

surrounding lawns and canals,and the presidential palace ofRashtrapati Bhavan. Lutyens’Delhi boasts more historic sitesthan any one place deserves,from the old fort of PuranaQila to the tranquil Lodhi Gardens. But leaving historybehind, it’s also where the city’sfinest restaurants and shops are situated.

While Delhi has enoughattractions to keep visitors occupied for weeks, itsproximity to Agra means even the shortest of city staysshould include a venture down south to see the world’smost impressive testament to love – the Taj Mahal.And beyond this monument lies Rajasthan, India’sruggedly beautiful frontier region. As fierce as thetigers which inhabit its wilds and as cultured as aMaharajah, Rajasthan offers travellers adventure insultan-esque style. •

DESTINATION: INDIA

ames Bond probably hadhis best time yet in thisstarkly beautiful Indianstate, and it’s anyone’s

guess why he hasn’t returned since his Octopussy encounter inUdaipur’s decadent Lake Palace.Just the word ‘Rajasthan’ is enoughto conjure up romantic images ofa silver screen India. The beauty ofthe place is that these images can’tcompete with the reality.

Rajasthan is the largest state inIndia – about the size of Germany –and is endowed with exceptionalnatural beauty and a fascinatinghistory. The dry northwestern partof the state whereJodhpur is found, isdominated by the TharDesert, and separatedfrom the more fertilesoutheastern regions bythe 850km long AravalliMountain range. Oneof the oldest mountainranges in the world, itreaches from the south-

west to the northeastcorner of the state, andprovides opportunitiesgalore for outdoorsmenand nature enthusiasts.It is also a range filledwith the ruins of tem-ples and palaces whichspeak eloquently ofRajasthan’s gloriousand bloody past, popu-lated with more heroes and villainsthan a Marvel comic book.

Literally the ‘Land of Kings’,Rajasthan only became part ofIndia in 1949. Before that, it wasa collection of 23 warring prince-

doms ruled by Rajputs– fierce warrior fami-lies, rich in elephants,camels, jewels andland. The Rajputs hadrisen to prominenceduring the 6th century,been subjugated (withdifficulty) by Baburand Akbar the Great’sMughal invaders in the

14th century, tolerated the domi-nance of the British Raj in the 19th and early 20th centuries, andsurvived – with pride intact.

Tourism has flourished inRajasthan in recent years. Visitorsflock to the cities and their surroundsto capture on their SLRs the exoticcolours of elegant sari-clad women,the nonchalance of cows causingtraffic jams, the concentration ofroadside barbers, and the magnifi-cent architectural relics of daysgone by, from Jaipur’s Hawa Mahal‘Palace of Winds’ to Udaipur’s hill-top Monsoon Palace.

However, it is in the countrysidearound the cities that the trueRajasthan experience of luxury and relaxation is to be found. RuralMaharajah’s palaces now serve asexclusive hotels and offer access to traditional villages and moreremote historical attractions suchas Ajabharh Fort, the deserted city

of Bhangarh and the11th-century NarayaniMata Temple. Andthen of course there isthe realm of tigers, leo-pards and other exoticwildlife: Rajasthan’sRanthambore NationalPark offers guests theultimate Indian safari.

The Aman IndiaJourney allows gueststo experience this side

of Rajasthan, with an initial stayat Aman New Delhi on arrival, followed by stays at Aman-i-Khás,a luxury tented camp on the out-skirts of Ranthambore NationalPark and at Amanbagh. Tuckedinto the Aravalli Hills on an historic garden estate – once theMaharajah of Alwar’s huntinggrounds, Amanbagh is a work of artcrafted from pink makrana marbleand sandstone in the gracefuldomed cupolas and arches of theMughal era.

Even Bond himself would have to admit – Rajasthan is a world initself that is more than enough. •

AMAN GUIDEAMAN GUIDE

DESTINATION: INDIA

The 17th-century Red Fort constructed by Mughal emperor Shah Jahan

elhi is a city with many faces, a veritablemirror to the diversity of India as awhole. In terms of population, Delhi ishome to more than 15 million and is atrue melting pot of cultures and religions.Even more striking than the diversity of

the city’s inhabitants, is the city itself. From the atmos-pheric spectacle of Old Delhi to the wide, tree-linedstreets of New Delhi, this is a city full of contrasts, manyarising from the fact that Delhi is a city of cities: Theremains of 7 major cities have been discovered in Delhi,but the two which can still be explored are 17th-century‘Shahjahanabad’, more commonly known as Old Delhior Chandni Chowk, and the garden city built by theBritish Raj known as ‘New Delhi’.

Standing on the corner of Dariba Street in ChandniChowk, Old Delhi’s atmospheric retail area, you’ll feellike you’ve stepped into an Indian caricature. It’s as marvelous as a movie set, yet as real as the samosas forsale behind you. The narrow street or gali, famed for itsbespoke silver jewellery shops, is thronged with people,from paan and chai wallas to women threading marigoldsin their jewel-bright saris. So are the rest of the warren-likelanes which weave like threads in a tapestry of marketsbefore the magnificent Lal Quila. Known as the Red Fort,

Lal Quila was built by Mughal Emperor Shah Jahan (of Taj Mahal fame) when he moved his capital fromAgra to Delhi in 1649, founding Shahjahanabad. It washis favourite daughter who designed the city outsidethe fort’s walls, the galis purposefully narrow to hinderinvading armies, and studded with such must-see sites asthe Jama Masjid and Fatehpur Mosques.

This is what many expect Delhi to be: a labyrinth ofalleyways bustling with activity and bursting with shops

The 14th-century Tomb of Azim Khan

rugged rajasthan With rose- and violet-hued cities, ancient forts and tiger-inhabited wilds, this desolate region is something of an oasis for the discerning traveller.

Top: India Gate at sunset. Below: Vendor in Chandni Chowk

READY, STEADY, DELHIThere’s so much more to Delhi than merely being

the gateway to India. Delhi is a cosmopolitan,

international city with plenty to offer the discerning

jetsetter, from gourmet restaurants to world-class

shopping. Throw in over 1,000 years of history and

you get a city where fast-paced modernisation and

carefully preserved antiquity co-exist to create a

fascinating destination. Welcome to the capital of

the sub-continent.

D

AMAN GUIDE

From top to bottom: Ruins of Bhangarh;Laxmi – the leopard hand-reared by Amanmanager Gerhard Weihahn in RanthamboreNational Park; a Rajasthani shepherd.

DESTINATION: INDIA

RETAIL THERAPYWhile luxury malls stockingthe world’s leading brandsare a-coming (such as thesuper-glam Emporio inNew Delhi’s Vasant Kunj),the retail industry in Delhiis still dominated by localindependent stores. A spotof retail therapy thereforemeans moving about tofind exactly what you want.But it’s worth it: You get atour of the city and trulyexperience the personalityof the place. With the helpof a savvy guide and patientdriver, and if the traffic godsare smiling, you can zipfrom Khan Market to theGarden of Five Senses,stopping at Lodhi Market,Connaught Place, SunderNagar and a host of otherson the way. A shopper’sparadise, Delhi is famous forits miniature painting andantiques (Sunder Nagar),its contemporary art sceneand fashion designers thelikes of Manish Arora andRohit Bal. It’s also a meccafor jewellery, textiles andcarpets, and boasts someincredible lifestyle stores. Ifat any point you feel yourselfflagging, a hot sweet cupof masala chai is never faraway and will revive youimmediately – even if yourcredit card takes a littlelonger to recover.

GEMSTONESIndia is a land famed forits jewels and gemstones.In fact, it is here thatdiamonds are thought to

have first been recognisedand mined. Persian for“Mountain of Light”, the105-carat Koh-i-Noor –once the largest knowndiamond in the world – wasfound at Kollur in the stateof Andhra Pradesh. Foughtover for centuries, it finallybecame part of the BritishCrown Jewels when QueenVictoria was proclaimed‘Empress of India’ in 1877.

A proud, independentcountry since 1947, Indiatoday is still one of theworld’s leading suppliers of precious gemstonesincluding emeralds, rubies,blue and yellow sapphires,coral, cat’s eyes, hessonite…the list goes on. Jaipur inparticular is a hub for thesale of precious stones.

Used traditionally asbody ornaments to showrank, status and wealth, aswell as religious tokens to

invite good fortune andward off evil, gems are an integral part of India’sculture. So much so that a man or woman ofoutstanding qualities isknown as Purusha orSthree Ratna – a gem of a man or woman, and thehighest award given by the Indian Government toits citizens is called BharataRatna – Gem of India.

PASHMINASKnown for their softnessand warmth, pashminashawls find mention inIndian texts from 300 BC.However, the founder ofthe cashmere wool indus-try is traditionally held tobe the 15th-century rulerof Kashmir, Zayn-ul-Abidin,who introduced weaversfrom Central Asia.

Pashmina refers to atype of fine cashmere woolwhich comes from the‘changthangi’ or ‘pashminagoat’ – indigenous to thehigh altitudes of theHimalayas. To survive the region’s harsh winters,these goats grow an extrainner layer of soft woolwhich is then shed everyspring. One goat shedsapproximately 80-170g of this fine wool which isspun to produce cashmere.

Pure pashmina productshave a gauzy open weave,

as the fibre cannot toleratehigh tension. The mostpopular pashmina fabric is a 70% pashmina, 30%silk blend which results intightly woven fabric withan elegant sheen.

CARPETSCrafted from wool andsilk, Indian hand-knottedcarpets are renowned theworld over for theirexquisite designs, subtleelegance and fine workman-ship. Brought to India byMughal emperor Akbar theGreat in the 16th century,carpet weaving is anancient art that has been

finely honed by craftsmenwho regard themselvesmore as artists. Every knottied in the creation of acarpet masterpiece is partof a story told throughcolour and pattern.

In the early 20th centurynature was the most impor-tant source of colour:madder roots providing arainbow of pinks and reds,green coming from grassand brown from the kikertree. A range of naturaldyes are still used today.

Pattern is just as impor-tant. The usual procedureadopted by a weaver is todraw his designs andtransfer them to graphpaper on which eachsquare represents a singleknot. The other mannerfollowed by weavers inKashmir and Amritsar isthe ‘Talim’ which demandstime and experience. Acoded colour chart, the

Talim indicates the numberof knots to be woven intheir respective colours.The master-weaver readsthe Talim out loud and theweavers chant their replyafter carrying out theinstruction.

Once a carpet is woven,it needs to have its under-side burnt and rubbed witha wire brush to make it even.Then it is washed, driedand clipped. So how longdoes this take? A 9 by 12foot rug that has 500 knotsper square inch would take4 to 5 artisans working 6 hours a day, 6 days aweek, approximately 14 months!

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AMAN GUIDE

TRAINS, PLANES, AUTOMOBILESAND TRISHAWS

Like many other Asian cities, Delhi has a reputation forchaotic traffic and drivers with a rather laissez faireattitude to the rules of the road. While this is true inpart, the city has developed a highly efficient publictransport system with the introduction of the DelhiMetro which has significantly improved congestionon the roads and as a result, air quality. Anotherimprovement is the opening of the New Delhi airport.This means that domestic transfers from internationalflights are all within the same complex, avoiding acommute between airports.

Challenges aside, getting around Delhi is really allpart of the adventure. Taking a trishaw gets you upclose and personal with the city sights and sounds,while bouncing along in an Ambassador is like cruisingback in time to the colonial era when these vehicleswere known as ‘The Kings of Indian roads’ (possiblydue to their excellent suspension!). The best way toexplore beyond the city is by train – comfortable andquicker than travelling long distances by road.

When time is of the essence, flying is the way forward. In this respect Delhi is truly the gateway toIndia, offering direct flights to every city and mosttowns in the country – providing they offer an airport.