Kenmore

INSTRUCTIONS

ZIG • ZAG SEWING MACHINEMODEL 1357/1525/1660/1947

60278

0

•Parts List ' , ................................ 48, 49:

1. Shuttle cover 12. Face cover plate2. Base front cover 13, Take-up lever3. Base 14, Upper thread guide

4. Zigzag stitch needle plate 15, Special stitch dia!5, Front cover release button 16. Stitch width control6. Presser foot 17. Special stitch modifier and

7. Thread guide buttonhole control8, Needle clamp screw 18. Reverse stitch lever

9. Thread guide 19. Stitch length control10. Top thread tension control 20, Feed dog control11, Face cover thread guide 21. Free arm

22. Support leg

@(Flat-bed type)

23. Electric cord receptacle24. Nomenclature plate25. Light and power switch26. Clutch knob27. Hand wheel

28. Bobbin winder29. Spool pins30. Bobbin winder tension disc

31. Pressure regulator

32. Presser foot lever33. Thread cutter34. Presser foot thumb screw

35. Feed dogs36, Base release button

37. Needle plate38, Guide pin hole

39. Hand hole cover plate

3!

INSTALLING MACHINE (Free-arm type)

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To install the machine in cabinet, positionmachine head on cabinet platform so thatholes on bottom of machine match thoseon board. Insert washers and screws and 3.tighten into place. (Fig. 1)A separate base and cover is available tocarry the machine when needed. Thebase must be removed wl_n machine isused. 4.To install machine in carrying case, setmachine into base, with word FRONT inbase facing you. (Fig, 2)Place cover on machine with word

"SEARS" on handle facing you. The caseslopes in the same direction of the ma-chine. (Fig. 3)

Push the speed control plug onto three-prong connector. Plug machine cord intoany 110-120 volt wall outlet, Turn onpower by pushing light and power switch,(Fig, 4)

Spool pins are packed in accessory box.Screw thread spool pins in place securelywith a screw driver. Position nylon discsas shown in illustration.

,4

INSTALLING MACHINE (Flat bed type)

Loosen the two hinge screws underholes in the rear edge of the machinebed.

2. Raise hinge pins in the cabinet orcase. Slip machine head onto pins.

3, Tighten hinge screws securely.

4. Push the speed control plug ontothree-prong connector under thebed plate. Lower machine head tofront cabinet flap.

1

,

Plug machine cord into any 110-120volt wall outlet, Turn on power bypushing light and power switch.

Spool pins are packed in accessorybox, Screw thread spool pins inplace securely with a screw driver.Position nylon discs as shown inillustration.

5

CONVERTING TO FREE-ARM SEWING

i•.°

I. Remove the base from the machine

by pushing the release button (ifapplicable) and pulling the base to

the left. (Fig, 1, 2)

2. To replace the base, simply slide italong the free arm to its originalposition. (Fig. 1)

Note: Base cannot be removed or

replaced unless shuttle cover isclosed.

6

WINDING THE BOBBIN

®

1. Release clutch by turning clutchknob toward you.

2. Draw thread from spool throughbobbin winder tension disc asshown.

3. Pull end of thread through hole inbobbin as shown.

4. Place bobbin onto bobbin winder

shaft with end of thread comingfrom the top of the bobbin. Push

bobbin winder latch against bobbinuntil it clicks. Holding onto end ofthread, start machine. When bobbin

is slightly filled, snip off end ofthread.

5. Start machine. Wind thread untilbobbin winder latch releases.

6. Tighten clutch knob and removebobbin.

7

THREADING THE BOBBIN CASE

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,

Remove base front cover by push-ing the release button on the leftside. Open the shuttle cover.

Raise needle to its highest position

by rotating hand wheel towardyou.

3. To remove bobbin case from shut-

tie, pull open latch of bobbin case.

4. Pull bobbin case straight out ofshuttle,

5. Insert bobbin into bobbin casemak-

ing sure thread is coming frombobbin as shown.

°

7_

8.

Pull thread through slot of case asshown.

Pull thread under tension spring.

Holding latch open, position caseinto shuttle, and release latch. Caseshould lock into place when latchis released.

8

THREADING OF TOP THREAD

Place thread on spool pin as shownwith thread coming from the back ofthe spool. Draw thread through thetop thread guide, Holding the spoolstationary with right hand, pull the endof the thread between the tension discs

as shown. Pull the spring wire loop upand past the top hook until the thread

can be slipped into the hook (See Fig.2). When the thread is released, the

spring wire loop will return to position

(See Fig. 3) with thread in proper place.Release spool of thread and continue to

thread machine exactly as shown.Needle must always be threaded indirection as shown in Fig. 4.

Hold needle thread loosely in left hand

and rotate hand wheel toward you onecomplete turn. Bring bobbin thread upby pulling upper thread. (Fig. 5),

9

ONTROLS

STRAIGHT STITCHING ADJUSTING TOP THREADTENSION '

STRAIGHT STITCHING

The good looking appearance of yourstitching is largely determined by thebalanced tension of both top end bobbinthreads. The tension is well balancedwhen these two threads 'lock' in themiddle of layers of fabric you aresewing.

If, when you start to sew, you find thatthe stitching is irregular, you will need toadjust the tension control.

Make any adjustments with presser foot'down'.

1. If the threads are locking on the topsurface with the top thread lying flat,the top stitch is too tight. Tensioncan oe decreased by turning thetension control to lower numbers.

2, If the reverse is happening with thethreads on the underside of the_b_;c, the tension is too loose. Thiscan be corrected by turning thetension control to higher numbers.

ZIGZAG STITCHING

The top thread may appear on thebottom depending on the thread, fabric,type of stitch and sewing speed, but thebobbin thread must never appear on thetop of the fabric.

ADJUSTING BOBBINTHREAD TENSION

Increase

puckers:BOBBIN THREAD TENSION REQUIRESADJUSTMENT LESS FREQUENTLYTHAN THE TOP THREAD TENSION.

If the tension is well balanced, but thefabric puckers badly, both top andbobbin thread tensions may be too tightand have to be adjusted.

When adjusting the tension on thebobbin case, make only slight adjust-ments with a srewdriver.

10

STITCH WIDTH CONTROL

This control regulates the width of thestitch you select. THE HIGHER THENUMBER-THE WIDER THE STITCH.

You may vary your zigzag stitch widthby adjusting this control to the settingyou desire.

This control must be on Red Dot in

order to do straight stitching. Turn onlythe outer rim of this control to set thestitch width. The center of the control

dials the special stitches the machine is -

ca pable of sewing ......

STITCH LENGTH CONTROL ......._.... ,i_:_: : ' .... :1 'i :::i : -L _.

The stitch length control regulates the :_ ,_ _length of the stitch you select. THEHIGHER THE NUMBER-THE SHORTERTHE STITCH,

The number on stitch length controlindicates the approximate number ofstitches per inch. The stitch setting youuse will be determined by the thicknessof the fabric you are sewing.

A longer stitch setting should be usedfor thicker fabric or more layers of fabric.The middle range of the control is the10-12 stitch per inch range which is themost commonly used.

A basting stitch is made by using thelongest possible stitch setting-6 stitchesper inch. The red marking ==. on thecontro_ is the setting used for theshortest stitches such as in SatinStitching.

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REVERSE STITCH CONTROL

It is best to begin and end seams with afew stitches taken in rpverse. This iscalled back tacking. Back tackingfastens the ends of the seams firmly andprevents raveling.

When reverse stitching is needed, turnthe control clockwise and hold thereduring sewing. The fabric will imme-diately start feeding backwards andseam will be fastened.

-SPECIAL STITCH MODIFi-ER AND BUI"rONHOLECONTROL

This control gives you the means ofvarying the stitches on the SpecialStitch Dial. When the pointer is turnedto the Red Dot, the machine sewsforward only. When the pointer isturned to the White Dot, the forwarddesigns are varied by the machinesewing in a forward and reverse manner.Carefully read directions given in thenext section of the book in order toaccomplish the various stitchescorrectly.

This control is also used in makingbuttonholes (Model 1525 only). Detailedinstructions are given in the next sectionof the book.

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SPECIAL STITCH DIAL

There are certain types of utility stitches you will use often in your homesewing, This control enables you to just dial the stitch you need for thetask at hand.

All stitches printed in red on the dial must be sewn with the Special StitchModifier set at the Red Dot.

To make the stitches printed in black on this dial, the Special Stitch Modifiermust be set at the White Dot.

THE RED DOT SETTING

I I

The setting illustrated above is the one used for most of your stitching. At thissetting you may straight stitch, stretch stitch and make a simple zig zag stitch.As each stitch is dependent upon the settings of your other controls, carefullyread the directions in the next section of the book for the various stitches.

BLIND STITCH AND OVERLOCK STRETCH STITCH <_:_

Blind hems are made by using the setting illustratedc with the Stitch Modifier seton the Red Dot. When the Modifier is set on the White Dot, overcast stretchstitching is made.

SPECIAL BOX STITCH AND ELASTIC STRETCH _;_

The setting illustrated is used for special edge finishing and special stretch stitchfor sewing elastic such as sportswear, girdles and other garments that requirestretch. See next section of this book for detailed use of the stitches.

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SPECIAL MENDING STITCH AND SMOCKING STRETCH :L;8_

You will find that much of your sewing is in the mending category. For thisreason you have been provided with a stitch for the repair of tears. It is _accomplished with the illustrated setting and the Modifier set at {he Red Dot.When the Modifier is turned to the White Dot a Smocking Stitch results. Fordirections see the next section of this book.

SERGING OR PINE LEAF STRETCH _1_

Serging or pine leaf stretch is used for seam finishing on all types of fabrics. It isa stitch used in the garment industry. It forms a good looking seam, stitchingand overcasting the edges. This stitch is useful for seaming of swimwear, stretchski pants and other types of knit sportswear. "Modifier must be set on the WhiteDot.

if Modifier is set on the red dot, a Shell Stitch can be made on nylon tricot.

BUTTONHOLE SETTING

The three settings illustrated are used in making a bar tacked buttonhole.Detailed instructions are given in the next section of the book.

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OTHER ADJUSTMENTS OF MACHINE IN SEWING

In addition to the obvious controls of your machine, there are other small

regulators and controls to aid you in using your sewing machine.

PRESSURE REGULATOR

i_i_ii!!iii<i!i_!i'ii_%__:i_!zii<_i_i_i;iii•i_:_'¸','-'_

< iiii!k :: <i

Push down the outer ring of the pressure regulator, This will release thepressure on the presser foot. (See above).To increase the pressure, push down inner pin until a suitable pressure isobtained.

Insufficient pressure may cause poor feeding of the fabric, skipped stitches,

or difficulty in guiding the fabric. If feed dogs or presser foot marks appearon the fabric, reduce the pressure.

When sewing multiple thickness or heavy fabric, reduce the pressure, Increasepressure when sewing lighter weight fabrics,

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Free-arm type) _i_

FEED DOG CONTROL

There are a few times when you want tocontrol the feeding of the fabricyourself. Remove the base cover fromthe base. Pull down the feed dog controlor turn to the left as shown in Fig. 1.The fee_l dogs will drop. You may thendetermine the movement of the fabric

yourself.

For most of your stitching, the feed dogcontrol should be in the up position.

Whenever you raise or lower the feeddogs, be sure to have the presser foot inthe up position.

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I

Fig:2

sEWING LIGHT

The light and power switch shown inFig. 1 and 2 provides the electric currentfor the motor as well as for the light.In order to operate the machine_ thisswitch must be on. To turn on the light,depress the upper side of the switch.If you are interrupted while sewing andmust leave the machine unattended,just turn off the switch and the machinecannot be started accidentally.

The sewing light is located inside theface cover plate as shown, To replacethe bulb, turn light off, and swing theface cover plate open. Push up on thebulb slightly and turn bulb clockwise.Remove bulb from socket. Push in newbulb and turn counter-clockwise.

Fig. 3

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NEEDLE PLATE INSERTS(Free-arm type)

You are provided with two needleplate inserts:

A. Needle plate with wide oval holefor all zigzag stitching.

B. Needle plate with round holefor regular straight stitching andstraight stretch stitch sewing.

CHANGING NEEDLE PLATEINSERTS

o

,

3.

Raise needle to its highest positionand raise presser foot.

Swing shuttle cover open.

Push a spring under the plate asshown to release the needle plateinsert.

4. Remove needle plate insert byplacing thumb under edge of plate.

5. Replace the needle plate insertpositioning as shown in Fig. 3.

6. Push needle plate insert down tolock into place. Reposition theshuttle cover.

... , ;.

SEAM GUIDES

Seam guides are printed on either side

of the needle plate to aid you in guid-ing your fabric, THE GUIDE LINEEXTENDING ABOVE THE RIGHT

SIDE OF THE NEEDLE PLATE IS

THE "ALL IMPORTANT" 5/8" SEAMLINE.

The cornering guides are convenientwhen turning a square corner 5/8"from the fabric edge. See nextsection of this book for directions.

Fi0: 4

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'='=' ACCESSORIES

NEEDLES

Use KENMORE needles, The size of theneedle should conform with the size ofthe thread and both should be suitableto the fabric (See next page).

Never use a bent needle or one with ablunt point,

Fig, 1, shows you the exact length ofyour needle, Be sure you never use onein your rrkachine that is not this exactlength,

YOU will find among your accessories a:'Q NEEDLE",._with blue shank, Thisspecial needle is to be used whensewing certain knits andcertain difficultsynthetic fabrics, If you experienceskipped stitched in any of your sewing,US8

_1_ _:_: _:;:::;_.k__! ,__

PLACEMENT OF NEEDLE

Raise needle bar to its highest positionby turning the hand wheel toward you.Loosen the needle clamp screw. Hold-ing the needle with the flat side awayfrom you, slip the needle into the needlebar, When it is in as far as it will go,tighten the needle clamp screw with ascrewdriver,

If you have a double needle for decora-tive stitching, it is inserted in the samemanner as the single needle.

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FABRIC

Lightweight: Batiste, Dimity ,Chiffon, Silks, Synthetic!Jerseys, •

" Fine Lace, Organza, Cre_e;, _:_-!_!_:.....Taffetta, Voile, Organdy

Medium Weight: Cotton, CottonBlends, Percale, Gingham,Shantung, Pique, Seersucker,Satin, Knits. Vinyl, Suitings,Linen, Wool Ci;epe, Leathi_r :ii

Medium Heavy Weight: Corduroy,Denim, Woot, Sailcloth;Wool : .Flannel, Gabardine, •Veivets,Leather

Heavy Weight: Coatings,Upholstery, Cotton Duck, HeaVyTwills, Canvas

Decorative Top-stitching on all

Synthetic Knits andStretch FabriCs:Polyester Doubie Knits, Nyl0nTricot,: Jersey, Stretch Terry_Spandex, Cire Tricot

BUTTONHOLE GUIDE(Model 1525, 1947)

You have been provided with a

buttonhole guide to aid you in makingbuttonholes. By using this guide, youwill accurately make identical sizebuttonholes every time.

The guide just slips onto the regularzigzag foot as illustrated.

Details in using this attachment aregiven in the next section. Follow

those directions carefully for perfectlyformed buttonholes.

iii!!

ii::_: _ _ _ili_

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I III I II IIII..................... II I I II1' ......... =.........'....

7

BUTTONHOLE ATTACHMENT

You will find the following parts in yourButtonhole Attachment Box:

1. Cover Plate with pinion gear in thecen.ter.

2. Buttonhole adapter to be usedinstead of base cover when button-hole attachment is used.(Model 1660 only)

1 Guide Plate with Guide Pin that fits

in guide pin hole on the machine bedjust behind the needle plate, andwith Template Holder.

, A set of 5 templates is furnishedwith each attachment, Each templateis marked showing the type andlength of each buttonhole.

g Desired size of buttonhole is select-ed by turning template advanceknob. Length of buttonhole appearsin window on top side of guide plate.

Details in using this attachment aregiven, ,in the next sectien. Followthose directions carefully for perfectlyformed buttonholes.

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PRESSER FEET

To change the various presser feet,raise the presser bar to its highestposition by lifting the presser footlever. Loosen the presser foot thumbscrew, choose the proper foot, insertfrom the front.

Tighten the screw using the largescrew driver to make certain the footis secure.

To aid you in the placement of heavyfabrics under the presser foot, the levercan raise the foot beyond .the normal"'up" position. This is also an aid in-changing your presser feet.

You have been given a variety of presser feet:

A. Zigzag Foot

B. Straight Stitch FootC. Satin Stitch FootD. Zipper Foot

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mmm2. STARTING TO SEW : ..... " '' ............................ r .........

Now that you are familiar with the controls on your machine and with the

accessories provided for the machine, you are ready to start to _ew with yournew Kenmore sewing machine. Below are some good habits to follow eachtime you sit down to sew:

1

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Test the needle - it should be straight, properly set and sharp on the point.It should be the correct size for the fabric and thread being used. Do notbe afraid to change your needle frequently. Many of the new fabricsmade of synthetic blends tend to dull the needles more easily thanfabrics made of natural fibers.

Before placing the material on the machine, see that the ends of thethreads have been drawn about 4 inches to the rear of the machine.

Test the machine stitch on a scrap of fabric you plan to use. The fabricshould be dotJble thickness. Adjust the machine for the length of stitchand tension suitable to your fabric.

1 Fabric should be placed under the presser foot with the bulk of thematerial to the left of the needle and the right edge of the material placedon the 5/8" seam marking on the needle plate when making a simpleseam.

5. Run the machine at a slow even speed. The more pressure you put onthe speed control, the faster the machine will sew.

6. Fasten each seam by back tacking at the beginning and end of the seam.

7. Always finish sewing each seam with the needle at its highest point.

8. Guide the fabric gently with your hand in front of the needle. Neverpull or hold the fabric in such a way that the normal feeding is altered.

9. When turning the hand wheel manually, always turn it toward you.

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mmGARMENT CONSTRUCTION

STRAIGHT STITCHING

Set your machine just as shown in theillustration in order to straight stitch.It is important each dial have thefollowing settings.

STITCHES

SETTINGS

Special Stitch Dial - _e_Stitch Width Control - Red DotStitch Length Control - 12 to 6Special Stitch Modifier - Red DotStraight Stitch FootStraight Slitch Needle Plate

You will find in garment construction 'that you are doing tWO types Ofsewing - temporary and permanent.

1. Temporary ,_titching - Usually the longest stitch possible and "-" "---on a single layer of fabric. The various types of temporar_ Stitching are:

BastingStay stitchingGuide line marking

2. Permanent stitching - This is the actual stitching that holds the garmenttogether. Much of this stitching is visible on the outside of the garmentand therefore must be good looking.

The best length stitch to use for medium weight fabrics is 10-12 stitchesper inch. This is in the middle range of the Stitch Length Control.

You must remember to lengthen the stitch for heavier fabrics, multiplelayers of fabric and thicker seams. Some of these seams are:

Common two layer seamsCurved two layer seamsTop stitched three layer seamsTop stitched four layer seams

When you have two seams crossing each other with considerable thickness,sew slowly and carefully so the seam will be as strong as possible in thisarea.

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Be sure both threads are drawn backunder the presser foo/t. Lower needleinto fabric about 1/2 inch frombeginning of seam. Turn the reversestitch ,control clockwise and stitch in

reverse until needle reaches beginningof seam. Release control and completeseam. When you reach the end, turn thecontrol clockwise and sew back over1/2 inch of completed seam;

TURNING A SQUARE CORNER

To turn a square corner 5/8" from thefabric edge, stop stitching with theneedle tip piercing the fabric, whenreaching the cornering guide as shown.Raise the presser foot, turn fabric. Newstitching line will align with 5/8" seamguide on side of needle plate. Lower thepresser foot and begin stitching in newdirection.

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ZIGZAG STITCHING

SETTINGS

Special Stitch Dial - _:etltStitch Width Control - 1 to 4

Stitch Length Control - Any Number

Special Stitch Modifier - Red DotZigzag Presser Foot

Zigzag Needle Plate

This type of stitching greatly expandsthe use of your machine. This is thefeature that enables you to overcastseams, blind hem, al_plique, buttonhole,monogram, and make all the prettyembroidery designs by machine. Simplyuse the settings indicated in theillustration for the simple zigzag. Followdirections given in the following pagesfor more specific uses.

OVERCASTING

This is one of the more frequently usedzigzag stitches in garment construction.You may want to overcast along the rawedge of each seam allowance or fold theraw edge toward the garment andstitch.

Fig. 1 shows the raw edge finished.Fig. 2 illustrates the folded edge stitch-

ed.

Stitch so the needle pierces the fabricjust short of the outside edge. Raw orworn edges of older garments can beovercast to prevent further raveling.

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INTERFACING DARTS

To reduce bulk of interfacing darts, cutinterfacing dowc, c_cJt.eJ bei;wee_i dartlines. Overlap cut edges, matching dartlines. Zigzag stitch along marking linefrom point to wide end of dart. Trimboth raw edges close to stitching.

Fig.

+

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STRETCH STITCHING

The stitches shown below are all for use with stretch and knit tabrics. Theseare special stitches built in to the machine for your quick selection.

(:5(2)@@@@

1. Straight Stretch2. Rick- Rack Stretch :3. Smocking Stretch4. Elastic Stretch5. Overcast Stretch

6. Serging or Pine Leaf Stretch

STRAIGHT STRETCHSTITCHING

SETTINGS

Special Stitch Dial- _=olllStitch Width Control. Red DotStitch Length Control- 6Special Stitch Modifier - White DotStraight Stitch FootStraight Stitch Needle Plate

Use this stretch stitch with knittedfabric and other fabrics that stretch.Sew as you do with regular straightstitch seaming. The seam may bepressed open as with any regularseam, but will stretch if necessary.

This is also a good stitch to use oncurved seams regardless of the typeof fabric. Any seam that will receivea great deal of strain when wornshould be sewn with the stretchstitch. Use in children's shorts and

slacks as well as adult sports clothes.

26

RICK-RACK STRETCHSTITCHING

SETTINGS

Special Stitch Dial - _e_iStitch Width Control - 1 to 4Stitch Length Control - 6Special Stitch Modifier- Red DotZigzag Presser FootZigzag Needle Plate

Sew on stretch fabrics in any areathat you might use a zig zag stitch.This stitch can'be used as a decorativetop stitch as well.

SMOCKING STRETCHSTITCHING

SETTINGS

Step 1.

Step 2.

Make a straight line of gathers acrossthe fabric that you wish to smock.Special Stitch Dial - ::!8_Stitch Width Control - 3 to 4Stitch Length Control - 6Special Stitch Modifier - Red DotZigzag Presser FootZigzag Needle Plate

With a narrow strip of fabric directlyunder the line of gathering, stitch overthe gathers. The design will be a seriesof small diamonds.

\

When smocking a garment, the stitch-ing should be done before the piece issewn into the garment

27

OVERCAST STRETCHSTITCHING

SETTINGS

Special _itch Dial. "_Stitch Width Control - 4Stitch Length Control - 6Special Stitch Modifier - White DotZigzag Presser FootZigzag Needle Plate

This is the same type of,stitch used bythe garment industry in making sports-

-wear. It is used for seams of 3/8" to1/4". The seam is formed and finishedin one operation. It must be osed whenyou are making swimwear, ski pantsand other garments that require stretch.

Fig. 1 shows the raw edge finished.

Stitch so the needle pierces the fabricjust short of the outside edge.

Raw or worn edges of older garmentscan be overcast to prevent further

raveling.

ELASTIC STRETCH STITCHING

SETTINGS

Special Stitch Dial- _1_Stitch Width Control - 4Stitch Length Control - 6

Special Stitch Modifier - White DotZigzag Presser FootZigzag Needle Plate

This is a good stitch to use in making orrepairing lingerie. The stitch is decora-tive as well as useful. Simply stitch the

elastic into place around the waist of the

garment, making sure that the elastic isevenly spaced. To do this mark the

correct length piece into quarters andmatch these markings with center frontand back of the garment as well as sideseams.

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SERGING OR PINE LEAFSTRETCH STITCHING

SETTINGS

Special Stitch Dial- J=l_Stitch Width Control- 4Stitch Length Control- 6Special Stitch Modifier - White DotZigzag Presser FootZigzag Needle Plate

The serging or pine leaf stretch stitch isequally useful with woven and knittedfabrics. This stitch can be used inmaking elastic swimwear, as well asovercasting a neat edge on the seams.

SHELL STITCHING

This stitch used on the edge of nylontricot makes a lovely Shell finish. Usethe following settings:

SETTINGS

Special Stitch Dial- J=l_Stitch Width Control- 4Stitch Length Control- 10Special Stitch Modifier- Red DotZigzag Presser FootZigzag Needle Plate

When sewing this stitch, allow needle tojust clear the right edge of the fabricwhen it zig zags.

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SPECIAL FINISHING STITCHES " ....... , -t

After the basic construction of your garment is finished, there are still many finishingtouches to be done. To aid your completion of your garment, the Kenmore has beendesigned to do the following tasks that formerly had to be done by hand.

/

BUTTONHOLE MAKING(Model 1525)

SETTINdS

Special Stitch Dial - _e_11Stitch Width Control - 1 to 1_,_Stitch Length Control -12Buttonhole Control - FBottonhole GuideZigzag Presser FootZigzag Needle Plate

Fig. 1

Carefully mark the buttonholelength on your garment. Mountthe buttonhole guide onto thepresser foot so that rear edge ofpresser foot is at the rear end ofthe guide, with upper thread asshown. Place the fabric withbuttonhole marked, under the

buttonhole guide.Without lowering the foot, let theneedle pierce the fabric at the be-ginning of the buttonhole. Lowerpresser foot.

Reproduction of the identical sizebuttonholes is facilitated with the

aid of the graduations on the leftside of the buttonhole guide.These graduations are _" apart.Always start buttonhole with footpositioned at rear end of the guide.After first buttonhole is made, al-ways stitch forward to point onfront of guide as with first button-hole. Graduations act as referencemark.

2. With the buttonhole control at F,

stitch forward until you approachthe front marking of your button-hole.

3O

' . ...... " _Jln'l'l'I' _!ll ' ' i_' ......... _........ I i Illi IIIIII I

g Turn the control to "R" stitchingback to the beginning of the button-hole. The speed with which thecontrol is turned determines thenumber of stitches at the end of thebuttonhole. The slower the control isturned while sewing, the morestitches formed.

4. Turn the control back to F to finishbuttonhole.

31

BUTTONHOLE MAKING(Model 1947)

SETTINGS

Step 1. Special Stitch Modifier- Red DotStep 2. Special Stitch Dial- I_

Stitch Width Control- 4

9titch Length Control- Red ZoneZigzag Presser FootZigzag Needle Plate

1 Carefully mark the buttonhole lengthon your garment. Mount the button-hole guide onto the presser foot so

that rear edge of presser foot is atthe rear end of the guide, with upperthread as shown. Place the fabricwith buttonhole marked, under thebuttonhole guide.Without lowering the foot, let theneedle pierce the fabric at the be-ginning of the buttonhole. Lowerpresser foot.Reproduction of the identical sizebuttonholes is facilitated with the aidof the graduations on the left side ofthe buttonhole guide.These graduations are 1/8" apart.Always start buttonhole with footpositioned at rear end of the guide.After first buttonhole is made, al-ways stitch forward to point on frontof guide as with first buttonhole.Graduations act as reference mark.

32

. Set special stitch dial at !:::iandbartack several times at the markedbeginning of the buttonhole. Stopsewing at the left stitch. Raiseneedle to its highest position byturning handwheel toward youmanually.

f

Step 1

, Set special stitch dial at ,n. Stitchforward until you approach the frontmarking of the buttonhole. Stopsewing at the left stitch and raiseneedle to its highest position as inStep 1.

Step 2

, Set special stitch dial at a again andbarrack several times. Raise needleat its highest position as in Steps 1and 2.

Step 3

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Step 4

5,

/

Set special stitch dial at i],andcontinue sewing until needle reachesbeginning of your buttonhole.

If the forward stitching does not exactly match the reverse stitching, slightly adjustthe btitch length control during forward sewing.

Always make a practice buttonhole on a scrap of fabric you plan to use. Try thebuttonholewith the button you will use.

Always use an Interfacing in area of garment where buttonholes are placed. Tissuepaper or regular interfacing can be used. Tear paper away after stitching, if it is used.

For heavier weight fabrics, loosen your top tension slightly and use a widerstitch width setting.

34

BUTTONHOLE MAKING(Model 1660, 1357)

SETTINGS

Special Stitch Dial - _ elllStitch Width Control - 1 to 1Stitch Length Control - 0

• Special Stitch Modifier - Red DotFeed Dogs- DownButtonhole FootZigzag Needle Plate

.

,

.

.

Turn hand wheel so needle is down.Remove base front cover by pushingrelease button. Open shuttle cover.Insert buttonhole adapter minuscover plate with pinion gear. Insertcover plate at 45 degree angle. Snapinto plate.

Screw guide pin into the guide pinhole on the machine bed directlybehind the needle plate.

Insert a template into the slot oftemplate holder by lifting the bottomportion of the Template Holder.Select the proper size buttonholeby turning the Template AdvanceKnob.Pull guide plate all the way forwardso that guide pin is at S. This willenable you to start at one end of thebuttonhole. Drop guide• plate intoplace over gear on cover plate,

Pick up bobbin thread throughguide plate by turning hand wheeland drawing thread to back ofmachine. Place fabric betweenpresser foot and guide plate. Lineup edge of fabric with markedindentation on guide. See Fig. 4.If 'you wish all buttonholes to be

3/4 inch from edge of garment,line up fabric with 3/4 inch mark-

ing each time you start sewing abuttonhole.

Guide PinHole

Gear

Fig. 1

Guide

.Window

,Template-Iolder

Template Advance KnobFig. 2

Fig. 3

35

BLIND HEMMING'

SETTINGS

i

Special Stitch Dial- "_Stitch Width Control - 2 to 3

Stitch Length Control - 12 to 8Special Stitch Modifier- Red DotZigzag foot or edgestitcher if availableZigzag Needle Plate

Inside of

.:. :.!

Finished Edge

, Finish edge of hem anyway youdesire, Turn up hem appropriatewidth. (Fig. 1)

2. Fold garment away from hemleaving 1/8" of hem edge extending.(Fig. 2)

Right Side ofFinishedHem

.

.

Place garment under presser foot insuch a manner that straight stitcheswill be sewn on extended edge.The zigzag stitch should just catchthe fold of the garment. (Fig. 3)

Press both sides of the finished hem.

The right side of the garment willshow only the blind stitches. (Fig. 4)

36

Fig. 4

SATIN STITCHING

SETTINGS

Special Stitch Dial - _o===Stitch Width Control - 1 to 4Stitch Length Control - Red ZoneSpecial Stitch Modifier - Red DotSatin Stitch FootZigzag Needle Plate

Closely spaced zigzag stitches are called satin stitches. This is an attractivestitch used for appliqueing, monogramming, buttonhole makir_g.

Whenever you are using this stitch, it is well to remember to loosen thetension of the top thread slightly. The wider the stitch you make, the looserthe tension should be.

If you are stitching on a very soft fabric, it is well to use a backing of tissuepaper or interfacing for a well formed stitch. Puckering of the material willbe eliminated and the bobbin thread will not be visible on the right side ofthe fabric.

As with all special stitches, it is best to make a sample design on your fabricbefore starting the design on the garment,

APPLIQUEING

SETTINGS

Same as with Satin Stitching

Select an applique design to be appliedto your garment and baste it in place.Satin stitch around the raw edge ofthe applique completely covering theedge. You may want to do this witha contrasting color of thread or selfcolor.

37

/

ZIPPER APPLICATION

SETTINGS/

Special Stitch Dial - CeIiIStitch Width Control - Red Dot

Stitch Length Contro[- _2 _u I G

Special Stitch Modifier- Red DotZipper Foot

Straight Stitch Needle Plate

REGULAR ZIPPER

The foot is adjustable for use on theright or left side of the needle whensewing the regular type of zipper.Adjust the foot so the needle clearsthe side notch on the foot. See Fig. 1.Carefully follow directions given onthe zipper package.

INVISIBLE ZIPPER

Adjust the foot so the needle is sewingthrough the center hole of the foot andone groove of the foot is riding on theteeth of the zipper.See Fig. 2. Follow the zipper manu-facturer's instructions.

After zipper has been inserted, finishsewing seam by shifting foot to sideposition sewing through side notch.

CORDING

Foot can also be used to make cordingfor slipcovers etc. Cover a cord witha strip of bias fabric and sew as shownin Fig. 3.

Fig. 3

38

MENDING

SETTINGS

Special Stitch Dial - :_i_Stitch Width Control - 4Stitch Length Control - Red ZoneSpecial Stitch Modifier - Red DotZigzag Presser FootZigzag Needle Plate

To repair a straight or three-corneredtear, position the tear under the needlein such a way that the stitching catchesboth sides of the tear. When mending _:a three-cornered tear, stitch fr.om eachend to the center. It is well to use apiece of fabric under the tear for re- -inforcement.

DARNING

SETTINGS

Special Stitch Dial - _:m_IZStitch Width Control - Red Dot

Special Stitch Modifier - Red DotFeed Dogs - UpNo Presser Foot

Remove presser foot, stretch fabric be-tween embroidery hoops with holecentered. Draw the bobbin thread upthrough the fabric by holding the topthread and taking one Stitch at the spotwhere you wish to start darning.Lowering the presser bar, start sewingat a slow to medium speed. Move thefabric back and forth with a steadyrhythm to cover the darning area.When it is covered, turn the fabric andsew another layer of stitching acrossthe first layer of stitching.

39

BUTTON SEWING'

SETTINGS

Special Stitch Dial - _o:l:Feed Dogs. DownZigzag Presser FootZigzag Needle Plate

1. Align two holes of button with slotof presser foot and lower foot tohold the button securely.

2, Turn hand wheel manually untilneedle point is just above button.

3, Adjust stitch width control soneedle will enter left hole of thebutton.

4, Turn hand wheel again by hand soneedle enters second hole. Re-adjust stitch width if necessary.Stitch a number of times.

5. Finish sewing with an extra twoinches of thread remaining. Drawthese threads to reverse side ofgarment and tie.

4O

BAR TACKING

SETTINGS

Special Stitch Dial. _4:_:Stitch Width Control - 1 to 4Stitch Length Control - Red ZoneButtonhole Control - Red DotZigzag Presser FootZigzag Needle Plate

This stitch is similar to a very shortsatin stitch and is used to reinforce

points of strain such as corners of

pockets and straps on lingerie.

Sew 4 to 6 zigzag stitches.

FREE-ARM SEWING

This sewing machine can be used like ....... ......a flat bed machine, but easily converts

to free arm machine by removing thebase.

The free arm enables you to sew

tubular types of pieces more easily.Just slip the sleeve or pants leg onthe free arm as shown above,

You will find many uses for this freearm feature such as"

i _Ti_.__I : .............1, Mend elbows and knees of gar- . _i_..-_..;.,.;;)!

merits more easily,

2. Sew in sleeves more easily, This _ i-::i:_ "

is especially true when sewingsmaller garments,

3. Applique, embroider or hem around

edges of cuffs or pants legs.

4. Sewing in elastic casings in skirtsor pants at the waistline,

41

Check, g Performance Problems WHAT TO DO

i

:_i;i 'PROBEEM_;::_ PROBABL E:::CAUSE CORRECTION

: Loose:upper thread.-ten=ion:

i_,=_i ..... |.igh,p,_ure:o_p:_,: foot......' :::-:-Stitches Loose pmsser foot. :._:::

Unevenly _ ound:bobbin.Nicks or burrs on :.shuttle.Nicks or burrs at:hole of needle

Incormctisize ne_dl_:: :::-+:::: := . Choose correct size needle for thread:and:fabric.improper::thmading_;i-::: ::::::i:::__::-:: :=::_: ,Rethmad machine.

plate.

BreakingNeedle

Bunching ofThread

Pulling fabric: i:::i: ::incorrect size needle.

Incorrect setting:of needle..Loose presser foot:i

Upper and lower threads not drawn

back under presser foot before

starting seam,

Tighten:upper thread tension;Do not pull_fabric; guide it gently.Increase:pressure on:presser foot;Reset presserfoot, "Rewind bobbin.Replace shuttle; or polish off burrs_completely.

Replace needle plate;or polishoff:burrslicompletely.

Do not pull; fabric;guide it gently. :i : :;ilChoose correct size needle•for thread and fabric.Reset needle.

Reset presserfoot. -i_.:.....

When starting a.seam be sum to draw_both threads tmd(_randback of presser foot about 4" and hold::iuntila fewstitchesere formed, :_

Incorrect thmad tension(s), Reset thread:tension(s).:Light pressure on::presserfoot. Increase pressure on presser foot.

"''usingtw°_dztterent:::szzes:°r-'-_ :_ " kinc!_ii: Upper thread and bobbin thread should;be same size and kind.

• ' '- .::_::_::._:-" ':: .._:*:_"_:_'_i_:?;:i_'_'i:!;::_ :_::i:i: ,:.-;_:__: _'::: .. : ',_ ......',' ';.:":':_'"'_":_: ' 'i :):_::. .:;..::{:_::.;:. ::_:. :: ::...;.; :':_'::.i._ :. • :._ : :' -i':':!:

,m i i llt i iii

CORRECTIONPROBABLE CAUSEi L. I

":: :; "::__'_ .iIncorrect size needle.

_:,Certainknits :and synthetics.Sen,o,

; Stitch_:i;i_;:;:!.:!ii;:i!ii::!i!!i;;"_::._Incorrect setting :of ;_le);):.:::Tightupperilhread.tenslon..

...... '!:i: :..::Light/prate: oii _::p_eimer:foot.

Choose. correct size:needle for thread .and fabric.Use, Q N 1.:]-:!)1.[-'.:'.,.Insert new,_needle;Remetnsedle;::Loosen upperithread .tension.Increase:pressure:on presserfoot.

Start tostitchiat ie medium speed.Rethread machine.Loosen_uppet thread-tension.Ch_!commt size.needle for:thread .and 'fabric, " :

•.Insert.;new_nsedle. :;: .:::_ _::. :_:..::.:!:::.:::._:.:

:.Replace_shuttle;or polish off burrscompletelY:

plate. Replace rneedle plate, or polish:off .bum completely.

m,,_b;,_,+.m^h_,,:_i_:;_.:i..:._. 4mproper bobbin, case:_ding;.. Check bobbin case threading.

.:w__::._i _.:::::". Tight:b°bbinithreadi:te_on_:::::i. : :: ::: :•. : Loosen:bobbin thread tene_n,: . ......_,: :i::i:i:._:;!:!,:_:..._:_;•_+. l,intin bobbincase_iol_iiiihuffie.:.::::_.: .: - Cleanbobbin:caseand:$huttle.

Feeddog Raisefead dog. i " -::

:tO ::Stimho :-r :'+.....

;.-.,

+..

?

4_

CARING FOR THE MACHINE ....................................... _ ...............______,_.__._,__

CLEANING AND OILING

Fig, 1 Cleaning the feed dogs with abrush.

Fig. 1

ShU_ Sly

Shuttle Race Cover

i:il- !pointed._.,.hook "

Shuttle

Shuttle Race

Fig. 2

To insure the best possible operationof your-machine, it is necessary tokeep the essential parts clean at alltimes. Using a small brush, removethe lint that accumulates in the shuttle

area and around the feed dogs.

Fig. 2 Parts of the Shuttle Assembly

-To Clean the Shuttle Area:

= This area must be kept free of dust,lint and occasional tangled thread.Raise the needle bar to its highestpoint and remove the bobbin case.

2. Push levers of shuttle race asideand lift shuttle race cover and shut-tle out.

3. Clean the shuttle race with smallbrush.

4. Put a drop of oil on the center pinof the shuttle and shuttle race.

(see arrows)

To

1.

,

.

Replace Shuttle Assembly:

Position shuttle race as illustrated so

that shuttle driver is forming halfmoon on the left side of themachine.

Hold shuttle by center pin andposition shuttle so as to form a halfmoon on the right side. Pointedhook will be on the bottom.

Place shuttle race cover into place

over shuttle assembly.

44

OILING UNDER ARM COVER PLATE

Remove arm cover plate to oil points indicated in top of machine head,To remove cover plate, insert a screw driver into the spacing between armcasting and top cover plate and lift the cover plate as illustrated below.

45

OILING UNDERSIDE

Tilt "machine head back and remove bottom cover to oil points in_dicated onundi_rside of machine. To remove bottom cover, remove screws (A), (B),(C), (D) and (E) as shown below.

46I

OILING UNDERSIDE

Tilt machine head back to oil points indicated on underside of machine.

OILING IN FACE COVER PLATE

Swing hinged face cover plateopen and oil points indicated inillustration.

47

PARTS LIST

1

PARTS LIST

All parts listed herein may be ordered from any Sears,Simpsons-Sears Limited store or service center.

WHEN ORDERING REPAIR PARTS, ALWAYS GIVE TI_EINFORMATION :

1. PART NUMBER 2. PART DESCRIPTION3. MODEL NUMBER 4. NAME OF ITEM

Roebuck and Co. or

FOLLOWING

If the parts you need are not stocked locally, your order will be electronicallytransmitted to a Sears Repair Parts Distribution Center for expedited handling,

Ref. No. Part No. Description

123456789

10111213141516,17181920

212223

24252627

4738295

382966510

*6862193982862273

*6740"6741*6742*6743"6744*6746363534039O687068736757

416204O53O362144827441664

353483_5347

68646797

41152410146830

4167041669*6889

Shuttle

Needle plate insert... Zigzag stitchNeedle plate insert... Straight stitchBobbin caseBobbin box with 10 bobbins

Bobbin winder rubber ringThread spool pinNylon discNo. 9 Single needles in orange caseNo. 11 Single needles in yellow caseNo. 14 Single needles in red caseNo. 16 Single needles in green caseNo. 18 Single needles in blue case"Q NEEDLES" T. in chocolate case

Needle clamp with screwStandard zigzag footSatin stitch foot

Straight stitch footZipper foot

' Buttonhole guideButtonhole cover plateButtonhole cover plateButtonhole adapterButtonhole guide plateButtonhote template (No. I)

Buttonhole template (No. 2)Needle threader

Light bulbMotor beltMotor belt

Buttonhole openerLarge screw driverSmall Screw driverOil and lint brush

*These items are not furnished with the machine, but may

be ordered per instructions above.

49

SEWING MACHINE

Now that you have purchased your' Sewing Machine, should aneed ever exist for repair parts or Service, sir_ply contact anySears Service Center _nd most Sears, Roebuck and Co. or

Simpsons-Sears Limited Stores. Be sure to provide all pertinentfacts when you call or visit.

The model number of your Sewing Machine will be shown onyour nomenclature plate on the back of your Sewing Machine.See Section 1, page 3 for location.

WHEN ORDERING REPAIR PARTS, ALWAYS GIVE THEFOLLOWING INFORMATION:

*MODEL NUMBER *NAME OF ITEM *PART DESCRIPTION

If the parts you need are not stocked locally, your order will beelectronically transmitted to a Sears Repair Parts DistributionCenter for handling.

SEARS, ROEBUCK AND CO., Chicago, IL 60684 U.S.A. and

SIMPSONS-SEARS LIMITED, Toronto, Ontario, Canada

S-158 Part No.60278 5/91