introduction part- part 2

7/23/2019 Introduction Part- Part 2

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Introduction Part

Introduction:

1.1 Bangladesh and RMG

RMG (Ready Made Garment) Industry in Bangladesh:

Bangladeshi Garment Industry is the largest industrial sector of thecountry. Though the history of Readymade Garment Industry is notolder one but Bangladeshi clothing business has a golden history.Probably it started from the Mughal age in the Indian subcontinentthrough Dhakai Musline. It had global reputation as well asdemandable market around the globe especially in the Europeanmarket.After industrial revolution in the west they were busy withtechnological advancement & started outsourcing of ready madegarments to meet up their daily demands. Many LDCs took that chance& started ready made garment export at that markets. As an LDC

Bangladesh took this chance enjoyed quota & other facilities of them.Thus ready made garment industry started to contribute in oureconomy from late eighties (1977).The history of the garment industry dates back to 1977 when the firstconsignment was exported to then West Germany by Jewel Garments.The number of units, however, remained a meager 46 until the end of1983. From a humble beginning the sector has thus made phenomenalgrowth over the last two decades, the number of units growing toaround 4500. The RMG industry achievement is noteworthy,particularly for a country plagued with poor resource endowments andadverse conditions for industrialization. Exports increased from

approximately 32 million US dollars in 1983/84 to 1.4 billion dollars in1992/93. In 1987/88, the RMG export share surpassed that of raw juteand allied products. The figure further rose to 5.7 billion dollars in2003/04, representing a contribution of about 75 percent of thecountrys total export earnings in that year. The employmentgenerated by the sector is estimated to be around 2.5 million workers.Several factors account for the outstanding successes of the RMGindustry in Bangladesh. At the same time this industry had faced & tillfacing many problems also.BGMEA (Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and ExportersAssociation) & BKMEA [Bangladesh Knitwear Manufacturer ExportersAssociation] a recognized trade body that represents export orientedgarment manufacturers and garment exporters of the country. Startingin the late 1970s as a negligible non-traditional sector with a narrowexport-base, the Ready-made garment industry emerged as apromising foreign exchange earning sector of the country by the year1983. Since then, this sector has been acclaimed as the thrust sectorof Bangladesh economy. BGMEA had only 12 members at the time of


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its inception in 1977. It promotes and protects the greater interest ofthe garment sector of Bangladesh and its members, the number ofwhich was about 3200 in July 2000.

1.2 Origin of the Report

This report has been prepared to make a study on An overview of theModern Merchandising Management Techniques as a part of thefulfillment of the internship program of an industry required for thecompletion B.Sc (Hons.) in Knitwear manufacturing & technology. Thissurvey research has been conducted to understand the KnitwearMerchandising and overall Management of Palmal Group of Industries.The report was prepared under supervision of Md. Jamal Uddin,Associate Professor and departmental Head of Knitwear Manufacturing& Technology (KMT) Technology at BIFT (BGMEA Institute of Fashion &

Technology). Executive supervisor, S.K Aminur Rahman(Lulu),Manager (Merchandising) of Palmal Group of Industries. I am verymuch thankful to both of them for assigning me such types of projectwork.

1.3 Objectives of the Internship:The main objectives of the study are to see whether the RMG sector,Merchandiser is using modern merchandising techniques in orderto assist the garment personnel with information and techniques.

Relevant to decision making and day-to-day operational activities of a

Merchandiser in order to objectives to be covered under the study are:

1. To acquire knowledge about the RMG (Ready Made Garments)Industry.2. To acquire clear knowledge about other backward task related toRMG and Palmal Group of Industries.3. To obtain practical knowledge on the systems, procedures ororganizations structure, products, HR policies, Profiles of Palmal Groupof Industries.4. Compliance management issues and practice followed by PalmalGroup of Industries.

1.4 Methodology:For smooth and accurate study every one have to follow some rules &regulation. The study impute were collected from two sources:

1.4.1 Primary sources:

Practical desk work

Face to face conversation with the different divisions personnel.


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Direct observations

Daily diary (containing my activities of practical orientation of

companies)

1.4.2 Secondary sources:

Annual report of companies

Files & Folders

Website

Magazine and newspapers

1.4.3 The details of the work plan are furnished below:

Data collection method: Relevant data for this project has beencollected primarily by direct investigations of different companyspersonnel.Data sources: The information and data for this report have beencollected from primary sources. The secondary sources of information

are article reports, websites and different manuals. Some text books,journals, newspapers etc. have been consulted in order to build up theframework of the study.Data processing:Data collected from secondary sources have been processed manuallyand qualitative approach in general and quantitative approach in somecases has been used throughout the study.Data analysis and interpretation: Qualitative approach has beenadopted for data analysis and interpretation taking the processed dataas the base.

1.5 Limitations of the Report:On the way of my study, I have faced some problems that termed asthe limitations of the study. I am working with the Merchandisingdivision at corporate head office at Palmal Group of industries. Thereare few opportunities to know regarding direct knowledge ofProduction. Except Merchandising Procedure all the procedure I havefaced different informational problem. In all respect followinglimitation and weakness remain within which I failed to escape by anymeans. These are follows:

Responsibilitys Problem: From the very beginning I have

responsibility to execute development sample for buyers requirement.I have passed my last 3 month with sampling program. I did not giveup my responsibly for the companys profit.

Budgeted time limitation: It was one of the main constraints thathindered to cover all aspects of the study.


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Confidentiality of Data: Because of some divisional and confidentialproblem, I could not get enough information. Every organization hastheir own secrecy that is not revealed to others. While collecting datasome company personnel did not disclose enough information for thesake of confidentiality of the organization.

Data Insufficiency: It is a giant Group of industries of Bangladesh.Every factory keeps own information but all together no informationfound precisely. Especially there is a lack of information about thedetermination of thecompanies applying different costing method and the level of costing applications in these companies. Sufficient books, publications,fact and figure are not available. These constrains narrowed the scopeof accurate analysis. If these limitations had not been there, the reportwould have been more useful and attractive.

Organizational Part

Organization

2.1 Company IntroductionPalmal group of industries emerged as one the pioneers in apparelbusiness in 1984 from the soul initiative of the late Engr. Nurul Haquesikder the former and founder chairman and managing director of thegroup.

Late engr. Mr .N.H Sikder delegated the authority of managing Directorto his beloved son Mr. Nafis Sikder in 2001. Since then by the age of 21years Mr. Nafis Sikder is holding the position of honorable ManagingDirector of the group and the company runs very smoothly under hisdynamic leadership. Over a period of last nine years the companygrowth is more then 300%.

2.2 Objectives of the CompanyThe main objective of the company is to become the best supplier ofquality products in RMG sectors & create value to the customers.Management Approach

Management consider Employee as capitalBelieve in responsibilities, Mutual trust & RespectCommitted to create enabling environmentEncourage employees creativity and achievement

2.3 Palmals core valuesPalmals core values are presented symbolically by A R I C E

A stands for Accountability


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R stands for Respect

I stands for Integrity

C stands for Commitment

E stands for Excellence

2.4 Palmals Strengths

Scope for career development.

Country leading pay master in RMG sector.

People developer.

Having fully compliant factories.

Considers peoples as Resources.

Avoid discriminations to the best possible extent.

Excising fair practices in Employment.

Value good workers and avoid trouble makers.

Assure workplace safety

2.5 Total Employees of Palmal

Category ofEmployees

Number

Staff 1800 approx

Workers 20000 approx

Total 21800 approx

Fig 1: Total Employees of Palmal

Total Sewing machine: 7500

Area: 75, 00,000 Square feet including Production Floor, Store & Office

Production Capacity: 55, 00,000 pcs. Per month


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2.6 Location of corporate office:Office identity Location

CHO MD and C.O.O,Merchandizing, PP and QA, IT

House 16, Road30,

Gulshan-1,Admin and ComplianceDepartment

House SWB 20(B), Road 08Gulshan-1

Commercial Wal*martMerchandizing and sample

House 2B, Road29,Gulshan 1

HRM, FHRO, Sweater Div, LPDand accounts and Banking,T&OD dept, Transporting andMaintenance and

merchandizing (partially)

House 2, Road21 ,Gulshan 1

2.7 Palmals Manufacturing Units & Location:

S.L

Name Brief No. ofUnit

Location/Address

1 Al-Hamra Garments Ltd. AHGL 1Malibagh

2 Amazan Garments Ltd. AGL 1

3Aswad composite mill Ltd

KabirpurACML 3 Kabirpur, Savar

4Aswad composite mill Ltd

SreepurACML 1 Sreepur,Gazipur

5 Ayesha Clothing Co. Ltd. ACCL 4 Ashulia, Savar6 Cortz Apparels Limited-1 CORTZ-1 1 Bagherbazar, Gazipur7 Cortz Apparels Limited-2 CORTZ-2 3 Naoghor, Gazipur8 Designer Line Pvt. Ltd. DLPL 1 New Jurai, Dhaka

9 Marina Apparels Ltd. MAL 2Dapa Idrakpur,Narayangonj

10 Nafa Apparels Ext. Ltd. NAL 1 London Plaza, Uttara11 Nafa Apparels Ext. Ltd. NAL Ext. 112 NKK Knitwear Ltd. NKKKL 1

Kutubari,m Faitullah,Narayangonj

13 Palmal Dresses Ltd. PDL 1

14Palmal Garments Hosiery

Ltd.PGHL 1

15 Palmal Styles Ltd.- Extn. PSL-Extn. 1 London Plaza, Uttara16 Palmal Knitwear Factory PKFL 1 Latif Emporium, Uttara


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Ltd.17 Progati Fashion wear Ltd. PFWL 1 Wiseghat, Dhaka

18The Dacca Dyeing

Garments Ltd.DDGL 2 Moghbazar, Dhaka

19 Safaa Sweaters Ltd. SSL 1 Ashulia, Savar

20 NKK Sweater Ltd. NKKSL 1 New Jurai, Dhaka21

Aswad Composite MillsLtd.- Knitting

ACML-Kniting

1 Sreepur,Gazipur

22Palmal Garments Hosiery

Ltd.-KnittingPGHL-

Kntiting1

Kutubari, Faitullah,Narayangonj

23Palmal Garments Washing

Ltd.PGWL 1

24 Ayesha Washing Ltd. AWL 1 Ashulia, Savar

25Palmal Knitwear Factory

Ltd.-Emproidery

PKFL-Embroide

ry1 BASIC, Tongi

26 Aswad composite mill LtdPrinting

ACML-Printing

1 Sreepur,Gazipur

27 Pragati Metalex Ltd. PML 1 BASIC, Tongi

Total 36

2.8 Product & Buyers:

Palmal is mainly RMG focused 100% Export oriented Group ofIndustries

Factory is expanding in the areas of knit composite and otherbackward linkage industries (Print, Embroidery, Washing andComposite etc.)


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2.8.1 Major Buyers:

Gap Inc.NewWave

Peacocks

Carters

Wal-MartGEORGE

HBIOshkosh

TexiboPrimark AMC

HBCCanada

DeacathionMaxico

CharmingShoppes

ZARA Bershka

Nygard Hudsaon Bay

Debenhans

Lefties

SEARSMotherCare

ZXY Kappa

Target-USA

Li &Fung

WoolworthAustralia

Bon Prix

KOHL'S Next C & A Adimiral


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2.9 Trend of Growth:Starting with only one Garment Factory Palmal Group now 25Garments factories, 2 Sweater Factories 2 Knit Composite Mills and

some other backward linkage factories. Over a period of 27 years;Palmal has managed to create its own identity as one of the countrysleading foreign currency earner in the RMG sector through promotingRMG sector through promoting RMG sector rapidly.2.10 Financial Growth:

Fig 2: Financial Growth of Palmal Group

2.11 Recognition and Award: The Company has achieved valuableawards as recognition of performance in RMG sector.National:President Award (Achieved in two consecutive years)

International:Best supplier award from Walmart (in 2004, 2005, 2006,2007, 2008 & 2009) & Best Charming Shoppe in 2006.2.12 Organizational structure of Palmal Group of Industries:

2.13 Layout of Palmal Knitwear Factory Ltd:

Fig No#5 Layout of Aswad

Merchandising Part

Merchandising

3.1 An analysis on Merchandising Division of Palmal Group ofIndustries:In garment industry, merchandiser is the BRIDGE between themanagement (or) industry and the buyer. He have to look after everyjob like buying the raw material (which is required to finish theproduct), making the garment, finishing the garment, documentation(over all view), finally shipping. He is the responsible person to makethe product.3.2 What should do Modern Merchandiser?

Understanding target customer

Evaluate the importance of market segmentation

Alternate Marketing

Proper methods of data collection & Industry information sources.

Forecasting for next year


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Developing the proper Marketing mix (4 Ps) for their proper target

markets

Consider the present market competitors.

Fig No#6 Modern Merchandise

3.3 Responsibilities of a Merchandiser:

When an export order is placed to a Merchandiser, he has to

schedule the following main functions-

Fabric & accessories requirement Calculation (Consumption)

Costing

Sourcing of fabrics & Accessories

Garment analysis and distribution to the production unit and quality

concern people

Arrange shipping documents and final inspection.

3.4 Developments of order:Buyer used to advise an initial requirement to place a confirm order. Inthis regards buyer send an enquiry/product package with full details of

an order. After having product package Merchandiser have to study allthe papers very carefully and also study the samples. (If available) toquote the prices. Sometimes it is necessary to make sample first. Suchsamples are known as proto/counter/initial samples. Merchandisershould familiar with all the development procedure of an order.Sometimes buyer provides some idea of his/her requirement. In thatcase Merchandiser has to develop garments according to the buyerprovided information in different way to present. Sometime buyeraccepts the developed style or may change the developed style toplace orders.So merchandisers have to think about development about new design

and style of garments always.3.5 Different types of samples:

Samples are very important to get an order from buyer. There aredifferent types of samples required to complete an order. They arefollows-1st Sample- Counter/ Initial/ 1st approval/ Proto


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2nd Sample- Red seal/ Fit/ Size set3rd Sample- Pre-Production (PP)/ Gold seal.4th Sample- Production Sample5th Sample- Wash Test Sample6th Sample- Shipment/ Reference Sample

There are another two types of samples required by some buyer i.e.photo-samples and salesman samples.Quality of the sample must be verified by the factory. Quality team aswell as by the nominated quality team of buyer. All samples have tosend to the respective buyer after checking properly.All samples have to submit to the buyers on time get approval on timeto start production on time. Bulk production of a particular order is notpossible to start without having PP/ Gold Seal Sample approval.

3.6 Order Sheet Analysis and Understanding Orders:After receiving an order details from buyer, Merchandisers have tostudy the order sheets very carefully. He has to compare followingpoints of order sheet i.e. unit price, Order Quantity, Delivery Dates,Delivery Modes, Ordered Garments Quantity, Ordered Yarn/FabricQuality, Order Number, Style Number, etc with the Earlier orderconfirmation.

3.7 Confirmation:Merchandisers have to understand the buyers requirement after gothrough the order details. In some cases, there may be somemodifications pertaining to the specification in the order to dispatch ontime and the right quality. He has to talk with the in-house veterans on

the execution problems of orders, as the right information is requiredin decision making.If received order details comply with earlier order confirmation thenMerchandiser have to distribute the order sheet to all concerndepartments i.e. Commercial, Planning, Store, Production, Quality andSample.3.8 Merchandising procedure to Execute an Order:

If all merchandiser used to follow the below work-flow chart then itwould be easier for them to keep control over his/her order from 1stday to the shipment of his/her order:

Need to receive Product Package to do Preliminary Costing

Sampling to confirm order

Purchase Order (PO) Received, Analysis and Distribution to

Respective Departments

Need to Receive Color Standard

Issue pro-forma invoice to get Export L/C

Export L/C check properly and hand over to commercial

Department to Proceed for execution


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Prepare CSP or TNA

After negotiation fabrics and accessories price need to make

detail Pre-costing for Back to Back (BTB) approval

Samples Fabric AccessoriesCommercial

Works

Proto/Initial/Counter Making &

Approval

Yarn/fabricsuppliers

source andNegotiation

List ofAccessories With

Requirements

Sales Man Sampleif Required

Lab DipSubmission &

Approval

Supplier Source& Price

Negotiation

Arrange P/I forFabrics &

Accessories

Red Seal/Fit/SizeSet Making &

Approval

Fabric Bookingfor PPS &Quality

Approval

AccessoriesBooking, Order& Development

Collect Copy ofBTB L/C

Photo Sample IfRequired PPS (Pre

Production)Making and

Approval

BulkYarn/FabricsRequirement

Booking &order shade &

QualityApproval forBulk fabric

Trim CardPrepare forApproval

Packing List &Invoice, Follow

up ExportDocument

Process

Production S/SetSample Making &

Approval

Shade Band/Dye LotApproval

Quality Approvalof All

Accessories

Wash Test Sample

Making andApproval

Bulk Fabric In-House Bulk AccessoriesIn-House

Gold SealShipment

Bulk FabricWash TestApproval

Trim CardPrepare forProduction

Color WiseSwatch Board

Making

Poly & CartonOrder

Poly & Carton In-House

Table# 1

Pre-Production Meeting Test Cutting

Bulk Production Follow Up

Shipment Arrangement

3.9 Job List of a Merchandiser:


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3.9.1 Inquiries:

On receiving an inquiry(s) the merchandising Manager has toprepare a checklist and immediately forward all information tosubordinate for the list for pricing.

The merchandiser must make sure that the factory specializes in

the item being priced and has worked with the client before. Selection of supplier should be based on their previous

performance, efficiency, delivery, etc.

If it is a new client then the merchandiser must discuss the

inquiry(s) with the dept. head before sending out the inquiry(s).

In case of a new factory, a factory evaluation should be

conducted as per the set standards.3.9.2 Quoting Prices:

Prices must be sent within 1-2 days of receiving the inquiry.

All enquires must be entered in to the new development sheet.

Based on the lowest price the merchandiser must order protosample. Min. 2 pieces must be ordered. One sample for thecustomer and one office sample.

Before quoting any prices to the customer. The merchandisershould get all prices approved by the Head of Merchandising orManaging Director.

If renegotiation is required then involve the dept. head, Head of

Merchandising and Managing Director so that the best prices arefinalized with the factories.

Final quoted price must be updated on the new development

sheet.3.9.3 Proto Samples:

Upon receipt of buyers specification, a thorough check should

be conducted for precision. Obtain explanation from customer

for anything considered vague.

Forward the specification sheets to CAD division for

Consumption and Pattern making with all the explanation of

specifications & technicalities on as & when received basis &

update records.

Ensure timely availability of fabric.

Follow-up with the supplier to provide the sample latest within

2 days for local accessories & fabrics, in case of imported

items maximum 12 days.


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Upon receipt of the sample from the sample division

thoroughly check the styling, measurement (if any), stitching,

quality of the fabric, fabric construction/GSM, hand feel,

washing standard, finishing of the sample & accessories if any

& ensure compliance of the samples as per customers

specifications.

The departmental head will give final approval.

At least 3 pieces of each sample should be developed. One for

merchandisers, one for the customer & one for the suppliers

for future references.

Prepare Proto Sample Checking Sheet & attach with the

checklist.

Put duly filled sample card on the sample.

Forward the samples as & when received basis & advice

customer accordingly with all the details of dispatch.

Follow with the buyer for approvals/comments.

Once approved, advice supplier as well as Head of Quality

Control.

Update Order Checklist.

3.9.4 Order Placement:

Once an order is placed the merchandise manager should fill out

a PO checklist.

All missing information with regards to the PO will be forwarded

to the customer within 1 day of receiving the PO.

A complete PO package must be prepared and sent to thefactory within 24 hours of receipt of order from customer with a

copy of P.O. to Commercial Department.

a. PO Package for Factory: A new PO package for the factorymust include the following:

Original PO sheet.


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Spec. Sketch and workman sheet.

Color print artwork, lab dip, original fabric swatch and

original trim card.

Original sample (If available)

Prepare a projected production plan & forward the same to the

Head of Quality Control & to the related supplier. The scheduleshould comprise of expected dates for fabric Quality Check, ILC,IPC, MPC & FRI.

Prepare a projected sample plan & forward the same to the

related supplier with a copy to the Head of department.

Within 1 day of receipt of a new order the merchandise manager

must call for a pre-production internal meeting.

The following people must attend this meeting:(a) Head of Operation.(b) Merchandise Manager.(c) Acct. Related Merchandiser.(d) Head of QA Dept.(e) QA Personal.(f) Internal QA Personal.

At the meeting the merchandiser will issue all information with

regards to the order. This information includes: PO sheet copy.

Spec sheet with all related information.

Lab dip card, print artwork, trims card, etc.

Original fabric swatch (If available)

Proto sample.

3.9.5 Lab Dip / Print Strike Off:

Follow up with our customer for lab dips if necessary.

Upon receipt of the lab dips from the customer, immediatelysend a replica to the supplier.

Follow-up with the supplier for prompt delivery of lab dips latest

within 5 days.


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Obtain maximum numbers of lab dips from the suppliers

minimum 3 per color.

Upon receipt of lab dips from the supplier, match lab dips against

customer specifications via visual test or if required by the

customer via lab test.

Receive Lab Dips Format Sheet from our Lab & attach with the

checklist, format attached.

Head of department will give the final approval prior sending the

samples to the buyers.

Forward the lab dips to the customer along with the lab test

report on as & when received basis. Make sure the buyer

receives the lab dibs as per their requirement.

Follow with the customers for approvals/comments.

On approval inform supplier.


Update the excel sheet accordingly.

3.9.6 Size Set Samples:

Follow-up with the supplier for prompt delivery of Size Setoptions with actual fabric, maximum 4 days for local fabric &maximum 12 days for imported fabric.

Obtain 2 sets of samples of all sizes from the supplier. One formerchandisers & one for the customer.

Upon receipt of samples from the supplier, match these against

customer specifications & comments.

Thoroughly check the styling, measurement (if any), stitching,quality of the fabric, fabric construction/GSM, hand feel, washingstandard, finishing of the sample & accessories if any.

Prepare size set format sheet & attach with the checklist, format

attached.

Head of department will give the final approval prior sending thesamples to the buyers.

Forward the size set options to the customers on as & when

received basis.

Ensure that buyer receives the samples as per their preciserequirement.


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Forward one or two pieces to the Head of Quality Control.


Upon receipt of approval advise supplier & Quality Control Head.



Obtain actual production schedule from the supplier. Make sure

the schedule is in accordance with the shipment date.3.9.7 Sample Accessories:

Follow up with the customer for sample accessories, if required.

Upon receipt of buyers accessories, a thorough check should be

conducted for precision. Obtain explanation from customer for

anything considered vague.

Upon receipt of the accessories from the customer, forward the

same to the supplier on as & when received basis.

Factories will be responsible for the selection of accessories

supplier. We should forward no such recommendations to the

factories.

Follow-up with the supplier and quality control for prompt

delivery of accessories for local max 4 days for imported max 12

days.

Obtain 4 sets of samples of all accessories with at least 3different options from the supplier. One for merchandisers, one

for the customer, one for the quality control, & one for the

suppliers for future references.


customer specifications.

Thoroughly check with the original/instructions received from the

buyer, artwork, color, quality, sewing allowance, bar code, price

tags etc.

Prepare accessories format sheet, format attached.




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Prepare at least 2 synergies trim/accessories cards. One for

buyer & one for merchandiser.

Forward the accessories to the customers on as & when

received basis.

Ensure that buyer receives the samples as per their precise

requirement.


After approval advise the supplier accordingly.



3.9.8 Pre-Production Samples:

Follow-up with the supplier for prompt delivery of pre-production

sample maximum 2 days.

Obtain 4 sets of pre-production samples from the supplier. One

for merchandisers, one for the customer, one for the quality

control, & one for the suppliers for future references.

Pre production sample in all size sets should be available to the

merchandisers at least 5 days before the start of actualproduction.


customer specifications.

Thoroughly check the styling, measurement, stitching, quality of

the fabric, fabric construction/GSM, hand feel, washing standard,

finishing of the sample & accessories.

Prepare PP sample format sheet, format attached.



Forward the pre-production sample to the customers on as &

when received basis.


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requirement.


Once approved advised the supplier.



3.9.9 Dye Lots:

Follow-up with the supplier and quality control for the delivery of

dye lot.

Dye Lot should be available (6 X 6, for every roll) to themerchandisers at least 5 days before the start of actual

production.

Upon receipt of samples from the supplier forward the same to

lab for lab test & match these against customer specifications.

Thoroughly see the color standard, color fastness, shrinkage,

GSM/construction, hang feel, fabric quality, knitting tension,

Lycra etc.

Receive Dye Lot sample format sheet from lab, format attached.





3.9.10 Production:

Once sampling is completed Head of concern Merchandiserforwards the order file to the Head of Quality Control along withthe approved sample & a copy of projected production schedule.Make sure the file is forwarded at least 5 days before start ofactual production.

A meeting should be conducted between the Head of

Merchandising Department, Concern Merchandiser, Head of


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Quality Control & Quality Control Officer (Production) discussingall the details of order.

Obtain an instruction sheet covering all the required information

from the quality control officer & approve.

Make sure any new comments are added into the instruction

sheet. Regular follow up should be made with the suppliers & Quality

Control regarding the status of production.

Make sure the Quality Control Department conducts all the

required inspections i.e. Fabric Quality Testing, ILC, IPC, MPC &FRI for every order. For large volumes make certain, there aremore than 1 MPC being conducted by the quality control.

Obtain daily production status from Quality Control & forward the

same to IT for updating the Web Site latest by 11:00 everymorning.

Obtain reports of all the inspection conducted i.e. Fabric Quality

Testing, ILC, IPC, and MPC & FRI for every order from qualitycontrol & keep a copy for record.

Visit the supplier at least during one inspection.

Make sure that FRI is conducted at least 2 days before the

shipment date.

Once FRI is OK, inform buyer.



3.9.11 Shipment / Salesman Samples:

Inform Head of Quality Control for Shipment Sample.

Obtain 2 sets of shipment samples from the Quality Control

Department of all sizes covering all colors or as specified by the

Customer. One or two pieces to be provided to concerned

Merchandiser & all remaining to Manager Administration. In case

where buyer requires shipment samples receive one complete

set from Quality Control.

Shipment samples should be available to the merchandisers the

next day of FRI.

Upon receipt of samples, conduct a thorough check & match

these against customer specifications.

Thoroughly check the getup, styling, stitching, fabric quality,

fabric construction/GSM, hand feel, washing standard, finishing,

& accessories.


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Prepare Shipment sample format sheet.

Head of department will give the final approval.

Merchandiser's are required to give in writing to QC Head with a

copy to Head of Operations & their departmental head the nameof our customers to whom we normally sent shipment sample.

If required, forward the shipment sample to the customers on as

& when received basis.


requirement.

Forward one set of shipment samples to administration

department.

Keep remaining samples in the department for future use &

maintain a register.



3.9.12 Delivery & Commercial Dept:Regular follow-up is essential to:

Ensure goods are handed over to the forwarder. Ensure the forwarder books space/flight for timely delivery of

goods.

Ensure staffing of goods is conducted.

Ensure the date of departure is as per the booking.

Obtain vessel/flight details from commercial department &

advise buyer.

Receive acknowledgement of goods from buyer.



3.9.13 Documentation:

Conduct regular follow up with commercial department &

supplier for the timely delivery of all the below mentioned

documents to the buyer.

Packing List

Commercial Invoice


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GSP

Country of Origin Certificate

Annexure III for Mexico Shipment (must be obtained 1 month

prior shipment)

Country of Origin Certificate attested from Argentinean

Embassy in India for Argentina shipment (must be obtained1 month prior shipment)

Bill of Lading/Master Airway Bill is sent from suppliers bank tobuyers bank only.

Inspection Certificate

All these documents are required to be sent to the buyer first via

email or fax & then original via courier.

Receive acknowledgement of documents from buyer.

Swatch Presentation:Swatch is a presentation of all the materials is (Fabric & Accessories)used for any specific style /order. Usually small piece of fabric andeach piece of accessories are attached in board paper in a systematicmanner. Swatch is very important for production line to make thecorrect construction of a garment and QC department ensures it.Concerned merchandiser should confirm/approve the swatch.

Fabrication, Trims & Store Part

Knitting

4.1 Knitting Section:Hand and machine knitted fabric is created by interlocking a series ofloops. The loops (stitches) are interlocked using a needle to hold theexisting loop while a new loop is formed in front of the old loop. The

old loop is then brought over the new loop to form the fabric. Knittingdiffers from weaving in that a single piece of yarn can be used tocreate fabric. The fabric consists of horizontal rows knownas courses and vertical columns of loops known as Wales.


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4.2 Knitting Section Organogram:

Picture 1

4.3 Commonly used Yarn for Knit fabrics:

100% Carded

100% Combed

CVC- It means Chief Valued Cotton that is composition of cotton

& Polyester. Commonly usable compositions are 60/40, 70/30

PC- It means Polyester & Cotton that is composition of Polyester

& Cotton. Commonly usable of compositions are 65/35, 70/30,80/20.

Melange- It is composition of Cotton & Viscose. Commonly usable

compositions are 99/1, 95/5, 90/10, 85/15, 60/40.

100% Viscose

Spandex

Modal

4.4 FLAT Knitting Section:Generally collar and cuff of knitted garments is produced in this section

there are flat knitting machines of the same type. There specificationsof the machines are given below:

M/C BRAND M/CORIGIN

No. OfMachine

M/CDIA

(ININCH)

GAUGE

TOTALNEEDLE

PRODUCTIONCAPACITY/ M/C

Run time

(HOURS)

INCOLLAR

IN CUFF

Matsuya Japan 19 54 14 740X2 450 Pcs 1200Pcs 24Flying Tiger Taiwan 6 54 14 740X2 450 Pcs 1200Pcs 24Shema Siki Japan 7 54 14 740X2 450 Pcs 1200Pcs 24Total 32

Table No: 2

Collar: Size: L: 45-47xW:09-10cmxT:3/4/5 ply, 35-45 pcs /Kg(Depends on count, ply and tension of knitting.

Cuff: L:37-39xW:3.8-4.0cmxT:2/3/4 ply, 60-70 pcs /Kg (Depends oncount, ply and tension of knittingCircular knitting section:


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There are two types of machines available in Aswad Composite MillsLtd..These are single jersey and double jersey.

4.5 Machine Description of Circular Knitting Section:

Circular Knitting Machine : Single Jersey, Double JerseySingle Jersey : 35Double Jersey : 20

Total no of M/C : 55.

Brand +Machine no.

origin GaugeIn Inch

DiaInInch

Feeder JobSuitability

Prod/day/kg

Terrot-01 Germany 20 16 51 Single jersey 350

Terrot-02 Germany 24 16 51 Single jersey 350Terrot-03 Germany 20 18 57 Single jersey 600Terrot-04 Germany 24 18 57 Single jersey 600Terrot-05 Germany 20 18 57 Single jersey 600Terrot-06 Germany 24 20 64 Single jersey 1800Terrot-07 Germany 18 20 64 Single jersey 1800Terrot-08 Germany 18 20 64 Single jersey 1800Terrot-09 Germany 18 20 64 Single jersey 1800Terrot-10 Germany 24 20 64 Single jersey 1800Terrot-11 Germany 18 20 64 Single jersey 1800Terrot-12 Germany 24 20 64 Single jersey 1800Terrot-13 Germany 24 20 64 Single jersey 1800Terrot-14 Germany 28 20 64 Single jersey 1680Terrot-15 Germany 18 22 70 Single jersey 1680Terrot-16 Germany 18 22 70 1680

Terrot-17 Germany 18 22 70 Single jersey 1680Terrot-18 Germany 22 22 70 Single jersey 1680

Terrot-19 Germany 20 22 70 1680

Terrot-20 Germany 24 22 70 Single jersey 1680Terrot-21 Germany 28 22 70 Single jersey 1680Terrot-22 Germany 24 22 70 Single jersey 750Terrot-23 Germany 20 24 76 Rib 750Terrot-24 Germany 24 24 76 Rib 750Terrot-25 Germany 20 24 766 Rib 300Terrot-26 Germany 24 36 64 Rib 300Terrot-27 Germany 18 34 60 Rib 450Terrot-28 Germany 18 30 54 Rib 280Terrot-29 Germany 24 34 60 Rib 500Orizio -1 Italy 18 36 72 Rib 600Orizio -2 Italy 18 36 72 Single jersey 600Orizio -3 Italy 24 26 84 Single jersey 500Orizio -4 Italy 24 26 84 Single jersey 500Orizio -5 Italy 24 30 96 Rib 900Orizio -6 Italy 28 30 96 Rib 900Orizio -7 Italy 24 30 96 Rib 900Orizio -8 Italy 16 30 60 Rib 600Orizio -9 Italy 18 30 60 Rib 600Orizio -10 Italy 22 30 96 Rib 1000Orizio -11 Italy 20 30 96 Rib 1000Orizio -12 Italy 24 30 96 Interlock 1000Orizio -13 Italy 24 30 96 Interlock 1000Orizio -14 Italy 28 30 96 Interlock 1200Orizio -15 Italy 28 30 96 Interlock 1200


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Orizio -16 Italy 24 30 96 Interlock 1200

Orizio -17 Italy 24 30 96 Single jersey 1200Mayer &Cie-1 Germany 20 30 96 Single jersey 750

Mayer &Cie-2 Germany 20 30 96 Single jersey 750

Mayer &Cie-3 Germany 20 30 96 Single jersey 750Mayer &Cie-4 Germany 20 30 62 Single jersey 600Mayer &Cie-5 Germany 20 30 62 Single jersey 600Camber - 1 England 24 30 90 Single jersey 750Camber - 2 England 28 30 90 Single jersey 750Camber - 3 England 24 30 90 Single jersey 750Falmak -1 Singapure 24 26 78 Single jersey 300

Table No: 3

Fabric:Knit fabrics are easy to sew and fit, require less pressing and care, andare comfortable to wear. Knit fabrics range from casual sweatshirtfleece to elegant stretch velvets and are available in a wide variety offibers both natural and synthetic and a combination of the two. Thedegree of stretch varies from 20 to 35%. Select patterns which aredesigned for stretch knits only. These patterns require fabric thatstretches a specific amount and the pattern envelope gives the degreeof stretch.

5.1 Fabric manufacturing capabilities Aswad Composite MillsLtd:

Single jersey:100% cotton /cvc/tc (80-260 gsm)

Ribs:100% cotton/cvc/tc (140-500 gsm)

Varigated rib:100% cotton/cvc/tc (140-300 gsm)

Pique:100% cotton/cvc/tc (140-260 gsm)

Interlock:100% cotton/cvc/tc (180-300 gsm)

French terry:100% cotton/cvc/tc (180-300 gsm)

Fleece:100% cotton/cvc/tc 3 thread brushed back fleece(240-350gsm)

Thermal:100% cotton/cvc/tc (135-280 gsm).

Slub yarn: 100% cotton slub jersey /rib/fleece/i/lock.

All sort of aop (all over print) fabric.

All sort of fabric with peach/sueding effect.

All sort of melange fabric both in 100% cotton & cvc. All sort of fabric in 100% organic cotton.

All sorts of fabrics with anti bacterial/microbial effects.

All sort of fabric with stain/soil/water repellency effect.

Burn out fabric in any kind of design.


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5.2 Some fabric Prices collected From Aswad Composite MillsLtd:

SL Fabrication Price/Kg Date Remarks Valid till

1 100% Ctn Jersey Solid 140 Gsm $ 6.50 14-Nov Combed Quality 5-Dec-11

2 100% Ctn Jersey Solid 160 Gsm $ 6.10 14-Nov Combed Quality 5-Dec-11

3 100% Ctn Jersey Peach Finish 160 Gsm $ 6.50 14-Nov Combed Quality 5-Dec-114 100% Ctn Jersey AOP 160 Gsm White $ 7.10 14-Nov Combed Quality 5-Dec-11

5 100% Ctn Jersey AOP 160 Gsm Dyed $ 7.80 14-Nov Combed Quality 5-Dec-11

6 100% Ctn Jersey Feeder Stripe 160 Gsm $ 7.95 14-Nov Combed Quality 5-Dec-11

7 100% Ctn Jersey Auto Stripe 160 Gsm $ 9.25 14-Nov Combed Quality 5-Dec-11

8 100% Ctn Jersey Auto Stripe Peach Finish $ 9.65 14-Nov Combed Quality 5-Dec-11

9 100% Ctn Jersey Auto Stripe 200 Gsm $ 9.02 14-Nov Combed Quality 5-Dec-11

10 100% Ctn Carbon fin. Jersey Soilid 160gsm $ 6.50 14-Nov Combed Quality 5-Dec-11

11 100% Ctn Carbon fin. Jersey AOP 160gsm $ 7.60 14-Nov Combed Quality 5-Dec-11

12 100% Ctn Carbon fin. Jersey AOP 200gsm $ 8.20 14-Nov Combed Quality 5-Dec-11

13 100% Ctn Slub Jersey Solid 160gsm $ 6.60 14-Nov Combed Quality 5-Dec-11

14 100% Ctn Pique Solid 200gsm $ 6.20 14-Nov Combed Quality 5-Dec-11

15 100% Ctn Pique y/d auto 200gsm $ 9.25 14-Nov Combed Quality 5-Dec-11

16 100% Ctn 1X1 rib solid 200gsm $ 6.32 14-Nov Combed Quality 5-Dec-1117 100% Ctn 1X1 rib AOP 200gsm W/body $ 7.30 14-Nov Combed Quality 5-Dec-11

18 100% Ctn 1X1 rib AOP 200gsm dye/body $ 7.98 14-Nov Combed Quality 5-Dec-11

19 100% Ctn 1X1 rib y/d feedrer stripe 200g $ 8.02 14-Nov Combed Quality 5-Dec-11

20 100% Ctn 1X1 rib Auto stripe 200g $ 9.54 14-Nov Combed Quality 5-Dec-11

21 100% Ctn 1X1 rib solid 220g $ 6.20 14-Nov Combed Quality 5-Dec-11

22 100% Ctn flat knit collar w/tipping(Boys) $ 0.40 14-Nov Per pc 5-Dec-11

23 100% Ctn flat knit cuff w/tipping(boys) $ 0.20 14-Nov Per pair 5-Dec-11

24 95/5 ctn/spdx jersey solid 160 gsm $ 8.25 14-Nov Combed Quality 5-Dec-11

25 95/5 ctn/spdx jersey AOP 160 gsm white $ 9.05 14-Nov Combed Quality 5-Dec-11

26 95/5 ctn/spdx jersey AOP 160 gsm dyed $ 9.85 14-Nov Combed Quality 5-Dec-11

27 95/5 ctn/spdx jersey feedre stripe 160g $ 9.63 14-Nov Combed Quality 5-Dec-11

28 95/5 ctn/spdx jersey solid stripe 180g $ 7.92 14-Nov Combed Quality 5-Dec-11

29 95/5 ctn/spdx jersey auto stripe 180g $ 9.30 14-Nov Combed Quality 5-Dec-11

30 95/5 ctn/spdx 1X1 rib 220gsm $ 7.92 14-Nov Combed Quality 5-Dec-11

31 95/5 ctn/spdx 2X2 rib 340gsm $ 7.50 14-Nov Combed Quality 5-Dec-11

32 80/20 cvc fleece inside brush solid peach 290g $ 6.90 14-Nov Combed Quality 5-Dec-11

33 80/20 cvc fleece inside brush solid peach 300g $ 6.90 14-Nov Combed Quality 5-Dec-11

34 80/20 cvc fleece inside brush AOP 300g $ 6.50 14-Nov Combed Quality 5-Dec-11

35 100% ctn Fleece inside Brush peach fin. 300g $ 7.15 14-Nov Combed Quality 5-Dec-11

36 100% ctn French Terry 280gsm $ 6.27 14-Nov Combed Quality 5-Dec-11

Table No# 4


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Picture No# 2&3

Picture No# 4&5

Trims and Accessories used in garment:Trims & Accessories cover all the items used in the garment except thebasic fabric. There are hundreds of items used to manufacture thegarments, Proper selection of trims and its quality are very important


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for styling, otherwise the garment may be rejected or returned by thecustomers. Following is a part of list that covers some names of thetrims & accessories:

S.L Name of accessories S.L Name of accessories S.LName of

accessories

1 Hang Tag 20 Spun Sewing Thread 39 Rebet

2 Price Tag 21Filament sewing

thread40 Eyelet

3 Barcode Sticker 22 Elastic Sewing thread 41 Buckle

4 Joker Tag 23 lurex Sewing thread 42 Stopper(Cord lock)

5 Pocket Flasher 24 Main Label 43 Hook & Eye

6 Size sticker 25 Size Label 44 Ring

7 Plastic/Metal Clip 26 Care Label 45 Hanger Loop

8 Metal Pin 27 Flag Label 46 Twill Tape

9 Safety Pin 28 Patch Label 47 String Draw Cord

10 Back Board 29 Lace 48 Piping Cord

11 Photo Board 30 Velcro Tape 49 Weaving Belt

12 Tissue Paper 31 Shoulder Tape 50 Seam Sealing Tape13 Hanger 32 Mobilon Tape 51 Satin Bow

14 Hanger Sizer 33 Metal Tag

15 Single Poly 34 Badge

16 Poly Sticker 35 Plastic Logo

17 Blister Poly 36 Lather Patch

18 Blister Sticker 37 Printed Logo

19 Cellulose Tape 38 Embroidery Logo

Table No# 5

Quality of trims as well as proper selection of trims is very important;otherwise the garments may be rejected returned by the customers.

Stores:

7.1 Different Types of Store:After checking quality fabrics, trims and accessories are sent to store.There are two kinds of stores available in Palmal:

There are four Central stores for Palmal.

Palmals every factory has Floor wise Individual Store.

Goods received by the central store first and then distributed to thestores of different floors against requisition slips.The central store receives goods against Invoice according to purchaseorder (PO). Then the received goods are weighted and countedwhether those are some in weight or number according to the packinglist.


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The business report or document of any purchased from abroad orimported i.e. Called Invoice. Its a document given by the exporterwhat kind of goods they have supplied.7.2 An Invoice contains:

L/C number.

Product Description.

Product Quantity.

Unit Price.

Port of Destination.

Bill to.

Ship to etc.

7.3 Number of goods is stored:

Fabrics.

Trim and accessories.

Stationary.

Buyers sample.

Colors.

Yarn.

Spandex.

Others.

Sampling Part

Sampling:The samples decide the ability of an exporter. The buyer will accessthe exporter and his organization only by the samples. If the samplesare of good quality and with reasonable price naturally the buyers willbe forced to place the order. So it is essential that the samples should

be innovative and with optimum quality. The purpose of sampling isnot only to get bulk orders and also give some additional benefits tothe exporters. By doing sampling the exporter can estimate the yarnconsumption for developing the fabric, a clear idea on costing moreever the manufacturing difficulties. Besides by doing sampling only theexporter can optimize the processing parameters for mass production,which helps to avoid all kind of bottlenecks. All these works are carried


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out by the sampling department, which us led by a sampling in charge.

8.1 Garment Sampling:Garment samples are inevitably important and are developed testedbefore starting the bulk production. It means making a sample of the

garment /fabric which requires to be sold. Sampling is one of the mainprocesses in Garment Industry and it has a vital role in attractingbuyers. Because the buyers generally places the order after they aresatisfied with the quality of the samples.

8.2 The Details Attached to the Garment SampleAfter the confirmation of order, each sample sent to the buyer has thefollowing details attached to it, with the help of a tag. It contains thedetails pertaining to both, what the buyer has demanded and whatsupplement fabric/trim etc they have used (if applicable).

Ref no. Color

Fabric

Composition

Description

Quantity

Style no/ Size

Store

There are many sampling department in Palmal. But as the Palmalsmerchandiser is the person who is interacting with the buyers

regarding samples and other requirements, this sampling departmentwill work under the supervision of merchandising department. Also asthe samples are to be made according to the buyers price ranges andquality levels, merchandiser has to advise sampling departmentsuitably.

8.3 Persons involved in Sampling:We have to send many samples to buyers. They are:

Salesmen samples or promotional samples

Proto samples or fit samples

Counter samples or reference samples or approval samples

Wash test samples

Photo samples

Fashion show samples

Pre-production samples

Production samples

Shipment samples


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8.4 Sampling Workflow of Palmal:

Fig No#98.4.1 Development samples or enquiry samples:When Palmal works with some buyers continuously, we will have tokeep on sending samples to them very often. Whenever they haveenquiries, buyer may need samples. Buyers may like to see thegarments in a new fabric. For one enquiry, they may need samples indifferent fabrics to choose from. If they want to develop new style innew fabric, then also we will have to send these samples.8.4.2 Salesmen samples or promotional samples:Some buyer needs these samples for getting the orders from theircustomers. If the buyer is having 7 salesmen in his office, then thebuyer will ask us to make 7 samples in each style. The salesmen willbook the orders from their customers, by showing these samples.Buyer will place the order to us accumulating the quantities.If have sent samples for 5 styles, some times, may get orders for all 5styles, 3 styles or 1 style. Some times, may not get order for even asingle style. Expected sales may not be possible, due to poor quality,unsuitable colors, improper measurements, unmatched prints orembroidery, etc of salesmen samples.

8.4.3 Photo samples or fit samples:


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These samples are to be made after getting the order sheets. Thesesamples are needed to check the measurements, style and fit. So theycan be made in available similar fabrics but in the actualmeasurements and specifications.Some buyers may need these samples if they want to print the photos

of garments on photo inlays, packing box, hang tag, etc. Thesesamples may be needed for local advertisement or buyers promotionaloccasions.

8.4.4 Counter samples or reference samples or approvalsamples:These samples are to be made in actual fabrics with actual trims. If theorder is for 3 colours, buyer may need samples in any one color andswatches (fabric bits) in other colors. These samples should be strictlyas per the specifications in the order sheets. Have to get the approvalfor these samples from the buyer before starting production.

After getting the approval, the approved samples should be followed inproduction. Some times, buyer may comment on fabric,measurements, making, etc. We have to follow his comments carefullyin production.8.4.5 Wash test samples:If these samples are sent before starting production and if get someremarks or comments on these samples, can correct them inproduction. But some buyers will need to send these samples fromproduction before shipment. In this case, these samples may beconsidered as shipment samples. If these samples are rejected due

to some complaints, then will not have any excuse and will be in realtrouble.8.4.6 Pre-production samples:These samples are almost like approval samples. They have to bemade in actual production fabric with actual bulk trims. They willrepresent that the production will be like these samples.8.4.7 Production samples:These samples are to be sent before shipment to get the buyersconfirmation for shipment. Hence these samples are needed to be

perfect in all manners. Buyer may check these samples for everythingor anything. Some times, they may do wash test also. We should notget any remark or comment. Have to get only OK from the buyer.Then only can ship the goods and can be sure of getting payment. Sothese samples are to be sent with more and more care.8.4.8 Shipment samples:


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These samples are to be sent after shipment. They should be sent inactual packing with all labels, tags, etc. (Generally these samples willnot be tested by buyer for anything. And even if get some commentsfrom buyers, can save by saying that these samples were sent fromthe left over garments after the shipment; hence there might be some

mistakes. If expect any comments in these samples, it is better toinform the buyer during sending these samples).

Cutting Part

Cutting Section:

9.1 Cutting:The fabric is cut with the help of cloth cutting machines

suitable for the type of the cloth. These can be band cutters havingsimilar work method like that of band saws; cutters having rotaryblades; machines having reciprocal blades which saw up and down; dieclickers similar to die or punch press; or computerized machines thatuse either blades or laser beams to cut the fabric in desired shapes.

9.1.1 Cutting Equipment:

Cutter

Spreader Table

Sticker Machine

Plotter

Digitizer

9.1.2 Cutting Capacity per Day: Total average: 90,000 pieces perday at PKFL.9.2 CAD:

CAD technology that has made prominent changes in the way ofPalmal garment manufacturing was done in previous eras. Today alllarge garment manufacturing companies have developed CAD systemto do the process of garment manufacturing. CAD is an abbreviation

for computer-aided design. CAD is computer software that controls theproduction of garments. In CAD the designer designs the garments byusing CADs Tools. Any suitable software likes Adobe Photoshop, AdobeIllustrator, and Corel Draw etc and in CAM the cutters, sewers, gradersand markers control the process of development.The designer creates 2-D of design in CAD as software numericallycontrols the machine that generates the production.


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There are several advantages of CAD over manual method of designingand production of garments:

The expense and time is reduced in a considerable manner when

compared to the laborious manual work of designing.

Designing can be done from anywhere as the designers are able to

control the process from remote locations as well. The data can be easily stored, transmitted, and transported through

computer files.

The designs can be easily customized and personalized as

corrections and editing can be done at any time without significantdelays or cost increases.

9.3 Grading:The purpose of grading is to create patterns in different standard sizes.Pattern sizes can be large, medium and small or else there arestandard patterns of size 10, 12, 14, 16 and so on for different figureand statures sizes. This is generally how we get S M L XL XXL sizing.

Pattern grading by manual method is a cumbersome task because thegrader has to alter the pattern on each and every point from armhole,to neckline, sleeve cap and wrist etc. by using CAD it is much easierand faster.

9.4 Marker Making:The measuring department determines the fabric yardage needed foreach style and size of garment. Computer software helps thetechnicians create the optimum fabric layout to suggest so fabric canbe used efficiently. Markers, made in accordance to the patterns areattached to the fabric with the help of adhesive stripping or staples.Markers are laid in such a way so that minimum possible fabric getswasted during cutting operation. After marking the garmentmanufacturer will get the idea of how much fabric he has to order inadvance for the construction of garments. Therefore careful executionis important in this step.Computer marking is done on specialized software. In computerizedmarking there is no need of large paper sheets for calculating theyardage, in fact, mathematical calculations are made instead to knowhow much fabric is required.

9.5 Spreading:With the help of spreading machines, fabric is stacked on one anotherin reaches or lays that may go over 100 ft (30.5 m) long and hundredsof plies (fabric pieces) thick.

9.6 Cutting Required:Pattern and marker must be checked by the quality control personnelcheck points are as follows:


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Measurement

Gradation

Allowances

Pattern parts missing

Mixed parts

Pattern shape

Direction of pattern in the marker

Pattern alignment with respect to the grain line

Poor line marking

Marker too wide than fabric width

Notches and drills marks omitted

Mismatch checks and strips

Overlapping

Too thick line or double line marking

Invisible line marking Marker incorrectly positioned on the lay

9.6.1 Others Requirement of Cutting:

Bundling with bundle card

Numbering

Cut panel checking

Wrong size in the bundle

Fused parts checking

Cleanness

Proper raking/ storing

Proper issuing prefer test cutting than bulk cutting

Reporting

9.7 Sequences in Cutting Room:


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Fig No#10 Sequence of Cutting Room

9.8 Below shown the organogram of cutting section:

Fig No#11 Cutting Section Organogram

Sewing & Finishing Part

Sewing Section

10.1 Sequence of Sewing:(T-shirt)

10.2 Lay out of Basic T-shirt:ProcessNo

Process Name Name M/C

01 Shoulder join Over lock 01


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02 Neck piping Flat lock 01

03 Vertical tuck Plain 01

04 Shoulder over lock Over lock 01

05 Shoulder piping tuck plain 01

06 Label preparation plain 02

07 Label attach plain 01

08 Sleeve rolling Flat lock 01

09 Sleeve join Over lock 02

10 Side seam Over lock 03

11 Sleeve horizontal tuck plain 01

12 Sleeve vertical tuck Plain 01

13 Body hem Flat lock 01

Table No# 6

Picture No# 6

10.3 List of Sewing:There is a list of sewing machines by using whose it is possible to makegarments properly

1. Lock Stitch Machine/ Plain/ Regular Sewing Machine

2. Two Needle Lock Stitch Machine

3. Chain Stitch Machine

4. Double Chain Stitch Machine

5. Overlock Machine

6. Safety Stitch Over Lock Machine

7. Flat Lock Machine Sewing Machines


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8. Flat seamer with the Cylinder Bed.

9. Buttonhole Machine

10. Button Sewing Machine

11. Bar Tack Machine

12. Blind Stitch Machine

13. Kansai Special Machine14. Pocket Sewer M/C.

Finishing Section:Finishing division is well equipped with most modern steam blowingand vacuum table and conveyer/ hand-held type needle and metaldetector. This final section to make the product saleable condition andthe finishing processes should be controlled to achieve the qualitytarget.

11.1 Organogram of Finishing Section of Palmal Group of

Industries:

11.2 Finishing equipments:Finishing equipments installed in PKFL are given below:

Name of equipment Quantity

Normal iron 15

Steam iron 03Passing machine 01Ironing table 15Button attach machine 02Button hole machine 01Tag machine 15

Table No# 711.3 Ironing:There are two types of pressing machines:

Normal iron

Steam iron

There are two kinds iron used in Palmals Factory. One is normal iron

and the other one is steam iron. The normal irons are generally used

for cool iron and the high temperature steam iron is used for good


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finishing of the knit items to increase aesthetics and remove any

unnecessary crease in the garments. There is some boiler which

providing steam in the steam iron and steam are provides through

steam lines set with the ceiling of the finishing section.

11.4 Labeling:There are also two kinds of labeling machine in the finishing floor.

Through these kinds of machine stickers and labels are attached with

the garments. There is a label cutting machine which is used for

cutting the extra thread of the table. All garments are folded and

packed according to buyers distribution instruction. After packing

garments are put into carton according to size color and style.

11.5 Packing:A carton must indicate the following things:

PO. No. : 56584

Style No. : KW-1256

Quantity Percarton

: 30 pcs

Item name : Mens Polo

Packingdimensions size

: 65 X 60 X 50 CM

Color : spectra greenGross weight : 16 Kg

Net weight : 15 Kg

Net Net Weight : 12 Kg

Country of Origin : Bangladesh.

Table No# 8

Quality Part

Quality

12.1 Quality Management System of Palmal:A number of systems, measures and techniques are used in Palmal sothat only quality goods are produced in first place & defects do notoriginate at all. If they occur at all, there are scope to take correctiveaction so that they can are eliminated in the preliminary stage & wouldnot repair. Quality Management System generally employs the


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following measures, technique to ensure that only quality goods areproduced:

Fabric quality concerning all check done by the skill inspector

Inspect all incoming, in-progress & final goods to insure quality of

goods Ensure that all patterns & grading are okay

Inspect marker & check Consumption

Inspect spreading, cutting & numbering

Ensure if relaxation times was given to knit fabric

Install in-line inspector in the sewing lines

Install system to monitor in production line

Inspect 100% goods delivered from sewing line

Inspect the table quality passed garments with statistical

technique

Control reject goods so that they do not mix-up with qualitypassed goods

Control repairable goods, washable goods so that they can be

double checked to ensure quality

Inspect goods with right equipments & in right conditions

Make repeat inspection of garments prior to poly-bagging

Inspect poly-bagging and assortment

Final inspection is conducted prior to shipments of goods

Impart training to QA personnel so that they can easily identify

defects and understand the causes of defects

Make continuous improvement plan and implement them

12.2 Fabric Inspection Procedure:Fabric Inspection:The quality of a final garment depends on the quality of a fabric whenit is received as a roll. Even the most outstanding manufacturingmethods cannot compensate for defective materials. Normally, weinspect 10% of the rolls we receive and evaluate them based ona four-point system. This way, we can avoid fabric related qualityproblems before it is put into production.

12.3 Objectives of inspection:Fabric Inspection is an important aspect followed prior to garmentmanufacturing to avoid rejects due to fabric quality and facing withunexpected loss in manufacturing. Fabric inspection is done for defectrate, fabric construction, fabric weight, shrinkage, end to end or edgeto edge shading, color, hand feel, length/width, print defect andappearance. Fabric inspection ensures to minimize the rejection of cutpanels or rejected garments due to fabric faults. Cutting inspected and


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approved fabric ensures not only finished garment quality but alsoreduces rejects, improves efficiency and timely deliveries.

12.4 Four Point System of Fabric Inspection:

Four Point System is based on penalty points given to a defect foundwhen inspecting fabric. Rule is as below:

Not more than four penalty points may be given for any single

defect.

No more than four penalty points may be given to one linear

yard/meter regardless of the number of defects found within one

yard/meter.

For continuous defects such as shading between side, centre

side, side to side shading, end to end shading no penalty points

are assigned but the roll is graded as second quality and must be

reported to mill for replacement.

Length of the defect Penalty Points

3 inches or less 1 Point

Over 3 inches, but lessthan 6

2 Points

Over 6 inches, but lessthan 9

3 Points

Over 9 inches 4 Points

Table No# 9

The system is recommended for use where smaller -defects are criticaland for fabric of wider widths and also this is very suitable for sampleinspection.Identify type of defects: generally, three main categories of defects areclassified for the garment standards as per defect guide. Thecategories of defect are as follows:

Critical Defect: A defect that is likely to result in hazardous or unsafeconditions from an individual consuming or using the product or thatcontravenes any mandatory regulations.

Major Defect: A defect there is like to result in failure, reducing theusability or service ability of the product. Most of the cases garmentsare rejected.


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Minor Defect: A defect that does not reduces the consumption or saleof the product nevertheless a workmanship error beyond the qualitystandard.

12.5 Factor to be consider for classification of defect: Location of defect

Size of the defect

How visible the defect from 18 distance

End use of the product

Factory Quality Control Procedure:

Figure: Defect checking system (4 point)

Table No# 10

12.7Nature of Garments Defect:Product variation is a normal result of the manufacturing process. It isimpossible in make each garment exactly the same. In order toestablish acceptable levels of variation; Tolerances should lie slated as

a pan of product specifications

12.7.1 Omission: Part omitted

Jasure omitted

Incut buttonhole


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Ressing omitted

12.7.2 Stitch Formation: Broken thread

Insecure backstitch

Irregular stitch gauge

Loose of tight thread

Misallocated reinforcement

Needle chew

Open Seam

Raw edge

Skip stitch

Uneven stitch line

Wrong thread

12.7.3 Seam Formation: Raw edge

Misaligned seam

Flared Seam

Puckered Seam

Run Off

Twisted Seam

12.7.4 Cleanliness: Finishing streaks

Soiling

Spots & stains

Hanging thread

Sewn-in waist


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12.7.5 Others: Dimensions out of Tolerance

Exposed Notches

Caught Place

Excessive Fullness

12.7.6 Finishing Defect: Finishing

Pressing

Folding

Packing

12.7.7 Position/ Alignment/ Incorrect Component: Misplaced Component

Component size/shape not to spec

Excessive Fullness

12.7.8 Zippers: Slider

Chair/ tooth Defect

Top/Bottom Stop

Tape/ Card Defects

12.7.9 Threads: Thread color

Thread Quality


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12.8 Inspection by AQL method:

12.9 Final inspection of garments:

Before shipment the final evaluation of any garments lot is called final

inspection to final audit. Final inspection consists of inspecting finishedgarments from the buyers point of view and the final inspection occursafter garments are packed in box. If it is done after garments arepacked, then proper size and style markings on the boxes can alsochecked. In any case there should be a list of points to be checked in agarments including of a finished garments. The purpose of finalinspection is conduct by the buyers representative. Most of the timethe senior quality control personnel from the buying house or in theindustry are performed the final inspection. Some times the buyerengages third party inspection team.

12.10 Purposes of final inspection: Buyers can understand about the quality standard of the

merchandise being purchased.

Last opportunity to know the quality status of the garments lot

for both buyer and supplier.

It is an important part of quality control in garment industry.


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It is an obvious condition from buyer end to conduct the finalinspection.

12.11 Sequence of final inspection of garments:

Top perform a reasonable we have to maintain a sequence of different

steps of the inspection are as follows:

Packing list verify / compare with P.O. sheet: Before start the finalinspection we have to check the final status of the lot with P.O. sheetand packing list. Are as follows:

quantity

color

size

Packing etc.

12.12 Inspection preparation:

To get accurate result with must have well preparation for finalinspections are as follows:Required facilities are:

Sufficient space

Sufficient light

Inspection table

Clean, noise free environment

Sufficient helping hand etc.

12.13 Required tools and equipments:

Packing list

Measuring tape

Arrow sticker

Marker pen

Highlight pen

Weight scale

Purchase order sheet

Quality specification sheet

Reference sample

Pick glass

Approved swatches

Finding and reporting format etc.

Metal detector

12.14 Carton checking:There are some important points to be checked during inspectioncheck points are:


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Quantity or carton

Quality of carton:

ply of carton

Size of carton

Strength of carton

Color of carton etc.

Shipping marks

Main mark

Side mark

Merchandise description

Strapping/trapping

12.15 Carton selection:From the total number of number of carton, we have to selectsample carton and garment sample will be picked from thosecarton.

The methods of carton selection and points table considered are asfollows:

Methods of carton selections

Points to be considered

12.16 Packing and packing check:Now we have to open carton from those selected carton and check the

packing methods used for the lot and the packing used whether it is asper specification. Check points are as follows:

12.16.1 Packing check:

Position of garment inside the carton

Inner carton

Protector

Poly bag

Assortment

Quality of garment

Packing materials must be checked with approved sample.

How it is used of attaching.

12.16.2 Points to be considered:

Color

Size

Style

12.17 Garments checking:Selected sample must be checked 100% check points are as follows:


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Appearance

Materials conformance

Conformity of style

Color shade

Logos

Workmanship

Finishing

Cleanness

Damages

Weight

Fitness

Record of defects non- conformances:

Measurement checking

Defective sample draw for reference

Carton fill up Sticker and signature

Reporting.

Planning & Control Part

Production Plan and Control:

Production Plan and Control means process the production successfullywithin a target time with target quantity. Its control a planning layoutthat is machine, manpower and other supported production. TheProduction Plan follows some terms is given bellow:

Machine and Manpower Layout: What is the number of machine

and manpower is worked in the line to complete all processwithin a specific time or target time.

Estimate Process of Garments: Calculate and select the number

of process to make complete Garments.

Standard Minute Value: Standard Minute Value shortly is standand used SMV. One process is completed some minute averagelyone garments is completed with some time that is called SMV. Itis calculated on operating time by process to process.

Target per Hour: The numbers of Garments produce per hour.

One hour (60 minutes) divided total SMV into working manpoweror total number of operation is calculated total pieces per hour.


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Basic Production Time: Shortly is called BPT. Total SMV dividedby total manpower equal to Basic Production Time (BPT). Thetotal number of operation or process of a Garments is takenspecific time to make to a manpower or operator is let BPT.

Whenever test cutting is run then study, check and adjustplanning SMV and target and submit this report to manager ofplanning. Studying SMV find out the lacking of production stepproper action to run and fast constantly and smoothly theproduction.

13.1 Layout Chart:Different machine in different operation is worked by one operator.

There is a planning layout chart against different operation.

SL.NO.

Machine Operation Name Manpower

01 O/L Cuff Joint 0102 F/L Cuff Top Stitch 0103 F/L Edge Binding &Cut 0104 O/L Edge stitch 0105 M/L Mark placket position 0206 M/L Cut placket 0107 M/L Back front match 0108 O/L Shoulder joint 0109 O/L Neck piping 0210 M/L Cut piping 0211 S/N Tack placket 0212 F/L Back neck piping & cut 0113 S/N Tack piping end 0114 M/L Cut piping 01


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15 S/N Back neck top stitch 0216 S/N Front neck top stitch 0217 S/N Insert joint 0518 M/L Sleeve match 0119 O/L Sleeve joint 02

20 O/L Side joint one side 0221 O/L Bottom joint 0222 F/L Bottom hemming 0223 S/N Side Tack 0124 O/L 2 Side joint 0225 S/N Bottom Tack 0126 S/N Sleeve tack & top stitch 0227 M/L Button Position Mark 0128 B/M Button attach 01

Total Manpower = 46Table No# 11

13.2 Study of SMV:

Order No: . OBSERVED CYCLE TIME Avg.-T.

Basic-T

SMV

Tgt/Hr.NO Operation Name 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 1

001

Sleeve Hem14

14

13

13

14

13

13

13

14

13

13.4

16.21

0.27

222

02Royse Cut (M/L)

20

19

18

20

21

22

22

23

22

19

20.6

250.41

146

03Sleeve Match (M/L)

20

1920

21

20

19

21

20

19

18

19.7

240.40

150

04 Front Raglan Joint

05 F & B Part Match (M/L)

06Back Raglan Joint

07 Back Placket Over lock

08Back Match & slv leveljoint

09 Neck Trimming (M/L)

10 Neck Binding

11 Neck Binding tack

12 Placket lower tack

13 Two Placket Tack

14 Front Lower Partgathering

15 Back Lower Partgathering16 Lower & Top Part Match

17F & B Two Lower PartJoint

18F & B Two Lower PartJoint

19 Front Part Middle Binding


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20 Sleeve Opening Tack

21 Side Tack

22 Side Tack

23 Side Joint

24 Side Joint

25 Sleeve Tack Top Side

26 Bottom Hem

27 Loop Make & Cut

28 Loop Tack

29 Mark Button Position

30 Button Attach

31

Total:16.16

Table No# 12

SMV= Basic Time for Processing/60 minute i.e., SMV=16.21/60 = 0.27

Total Piece/Hour= 60 minute/SMV x Total operation or Totalmanpower

= 60/16.16 x 30= 3.71 x 30= 111 Piece/Hr.

13.3 Total SMV & Line Target with Manpower:

Operator 23

Helper 8

Total Manpower 31

SMV 9.31

STD.Target/Hr. 100% 200

1St Day Target for Line/Hr. 15% 30

2nd

Day Target for Line/Hr. 25% 50

3rd Day Target for Line/Hr. 35% 70

Other Day target for Line/Hr. 60% 120

BPT (Basic Piece Time) 0.30

Table No# 13


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BPT= SMV/Total manpower or Total operation= 9.31/31 or 9.31/30= 0.30 or 0.31 minute/piece

13.4 Pre-Production Meeting:

It is a meeting called by General Manager before start the production.There are some important person has to come to the meeting. In hismeeting people discuss on a particular order to execute the ordereasily. Knitting manager, knitting master, knitting in-charge, DyeingManager, Dyeing In-charge, Cutting In-charge, Production Manager,quality In-charge and Other Concern people have the participate in thisMeeting. They are discussing on:

13.5 What is GSD?

GSD is the worlds leading methods management system and is aPredetermined Motion Time System (PMTS), designed specifically forthe sewn products industry. Its primary function is to rationalizemanufacturing methods and to produce an accurate evaluation of thetime required to perform a specific task or operation. Withoutmeasurement there can be no management, and, whether in design,manufacturing, sub-contract or retail, GSD provides the means toaccurately evaluate labor costs prior to committing valuable resources.More than this, it brings about a change in outlook, a commitment tobest method and a real basis for communication - at allorganizational levels, even breaking through barriers of language.

The system consists of two parts, the inherent GSD database itself,which forms the heart and integrity of the system, and the GSD forWindows software, which is the vehicle that drives the data. Throughits application, you are able to create a unique library of information tomeet your own needs and reflect your unique environment. GSD isused to create the information required for product costing, pre-production planning, scheduling, delivery and profitability - andbecause the system is predictive in its nature, each of these functionsmay be undertaken prior to making a commitment.

13.5.1 Improving garment manufacturing efficiency through

GSD

In these times of rising costs, increasing competition, and falling salesprices in the garment industry, it is of particular importance thatproductivity is maximized at the highest degree of economic efficiency.Even ultra-modernized plants by themselves offer no guarantee forcontinuing competitiveness, unless the necessary production costs arethoroughly analyzed, evaluated and reduced to an absolute minimum.


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A computer program, known world over as GSD (General Sewing Data),allows companies to analyze and plan every single operation in thesewing of a garment, whether it be a machine or a manual operation. Itpermits companies to cost their products, with a high level of accuracy,prior to the start of the production process. Auxiliary modules facilitate

the evaluation of the cutting room as well as production planning,ticket printing and operator training. Results from previous installationsof this program in Germany, Austria and Switzerland clearly show thatproductivity was increased on average by 11 per cent, in some cases,by as much as 24 per cent at the factory level, and over 100 per centon individual operations.

There exists a belief in the industry that production costs can beeffectively reduced by building faster and faster sewing machines.However, this is not necessarily true, and increases in machine speedshave minute effects on the actual sewing times. In addition, when oneconsiders that only 20-30 per cent of the time of an average operation

is actual sewing machine time, while 70-80 per cent is handling time,the small gains from increasing machine sewing times themselves aretrivial compared with the expense of the super-sewing-machines.

As against this, GSD deals with all parts of the production process. It isnot just another time measurement system. Whereas timemeasurement systems use timed production sequences for anoperation, GSD uses independent, tested, synthetic time standards andis open to any changes in method, machine or material the operatormay wish to make.

GSD was tested independently by academic and industrial institutions

on three continents and was found accurate to five per cent in 95 percent of the cases tested. The program is already in use in over 700clothing production plants in 32 countries all over the world.

The savings through use of this system are indeed phenomenal. Forinstance, in a production facility employing 100 workers with anaverage cost of US$ 0.15 a minute, if you can save just 1.5 minutes(five per cent) in the production of a garment taking 30 minutes toproduce, your savings amount to:

100 x 480 x 0.15 x 1.5/30 = US$ 360.00 per day or US$ 8,640.00 permonth.

Or you can reduce the production price of your product from US$ 4.50to US$ 4.28. Or you can produce five per cent more garments a daywith the same labor force (1680 garments instead of 1600).

13.5.2 Users

The GSD Family is growing all the time and already includes some ofthe most globally recognized names from the retail sector and inmanufacturing. Triumph International (Austria), Gasser Modelle


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(Austria), Hanro of Switzerland, Gardeur Dieter Janssen (Germany),Kitz-Pichler Trachten, Gottstein GmbH (Austria), Goldhaubenwebe(Austria), Sariana (Austria), Daks Simpson (UK), Austin Reed, GizaTextiles (Egypt), Sevel SAE (Egypt), Bagir (Israel), Laura Ashley, PringleKnitwear, Aquascutum, L. L. Bean. Land Rover, Russel Corp., Berlie,

Austin Rover, Speedo, Vanity Fair, Jaeger Tailoring, and many more....GSD is internationally renowned, and is represented in over 70countries worldwide.

Cost Benefits That Begin Immediately

For hundreds of clients, GSD has delivered immediate productivityimprovement and cost savings.

Results show:

Productivity improvement averaging a substantial, measurable of

the direct labor payroll;

Return of investment: Six to eight month, based on a 100-operator plant;

Enhanced engineering productivity with same or reduced

staffing;

Improved pre-costing through GSDs unique skeleton costing

process;

Independent industry tests have proven in hundreds of scenarios: WithGSD, payback begins immediately.

13.5.3 Simplicity and Accuracy with GSD

GSD is a computerized standard data system developed specifically for

the sewn-products industry. The statistically validated elemental code,constructed from a unique MTM (Methods Time Measurement) COREDATA, represents a simple, universal language which is easy to learnand communicate. The same simple codes can be fine-tuned to meetwith any level of engineered methods, thus ensuring fast, consistentapplication with MTM-level accuracy. This is true whether the system isused in high-fashion or large volume/repetitive manufacturingenvironments.

13.5.4 Payback in Six Months

Used as a predictive management tool, GSD provides the Just in

Time (JIT) technology so critical in todays highly chargedmanufacturing environment. In case after case, GSD has helpedfacilities realize payback/return on investment (ROI) as soon as thesystem is installed. In fact, GSDs cost-savings have been measured upto 26 per cent. (Realization of a six-month payback requires only athree per cent saving in direct labor payroll.) An intangible benefit isthe awareness that management, supervisors and operators gain


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due to changes in design, material, volume, technique and quality, allof which can be quantified in the GSD specification.

GSD delivers:

Substantial time reduction for style costing and style introduction

Rapid quantification of changes in design, materials, volume,technique and quality

Improvement in overall consistency rates

Reduction of off-standard/average payments

Evaluation and justification of new equipment methods

Setting and pre-engineering of consistent and accurate rates

Elimination of lost business caused by over pricing of jobs

Elimination of lost income caused by under pricing of jobs

Overall management of manufacturing standards database

Data transfer capabilities to other systems

Efficiency of operator training via method specification

Reduction of clerical time

13.5.5 Ultimate Costing System

Efficient methods, accurate labor standards and preseason stylecosting are fundamental to the success of a sewn-products facility.GSD provides fast, accurate rates in a fraction of the time compared

with other systems. For every facility and style change option, GSDallows pre-costing of various stages of manufacturing.

The system provides reliable, measurable information on:

Optimum Standard Allowed Minute values

Production-run efficiency (overall & component)

Costing per style

Per

introduction part- part 2

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