introduction to flyfishing - saltwater...

saltwaterflyrodders.com.au


History

“...they have planned a snare for the fish, and get better of them by their fisherman’s craft... They fasten red wool round a hook and fit onto the wool two feathers which grow under a cock’s wattles, and which in colour are like wax. The rod they use is six feet long and the line of the same length. Then they throw their snare, and the fish, attracted and maddened by the colour, comes straight at it, thinking from the pretty sight to gain a dainty mouthful; when, however, it opens its jaws, it is caught by the hook, and enjoys a bitter repast, a captive.”

Claudius Aelian Aelian wrote this description of fly-fishing more than 17 centuries ago. It is not known, whether they fished for food or for sport but clearly fly-fishing has been around for a very long time. The earliest written reference to fly-fishing in Australia dates from 1833. Early American fly rods were anywhere from 12 to 20 feet long and made of three sections – butt of ash, middle of hickory , and tip of lancewood. These rods eventually evolved to split bamboo in about 1850, to fibreglass, then to the Carbon Fibre rods of today. The fly reel was developed at about the same time as split bamboo rods. Previously line hung to the side of the angler. The horsehair lines also became tapered – having more strands in the middle than at the end. Fly-casting as we now know it began to develop a few years later when silk oil dressed lines were introduced.

How is fly-fishing different from spin casting?

The biggest difference between spin casting and fly-fishing is that the line, not the lure or bait, provides the weight for casting. So in essence, you cast the line, not the lure. The fly rod is commonly seven to 10 feet long, longer than spinning rods. The rod provides the means to propel the line. The reel serves as a storage unit for the fly line. In spin casting, the line is cranked back onto the reel between casts. During fly-fishing, the fly line is left hanging or coiled on the ground between casts. Fly line is different from the monofilament line used for spin casting. It is much heavier and thicker because it provides the weight to get the fly to the target.

Why fly-fish?

Many novices ask themselves. “Why would I want to fly-fish? Spin casting works just fine for me.” The accomplished fly-fisher enjoys the sport for many reasons. He enjoys the challenges – coming up with the right fly and presentation for the target species and fishing conditions. Learning about the food he is trying to imitate, “reading” the water to locate area’s that holds fish, actively hunting/fishing to a sighted fish.(Fooling a sometimes weary adversary) and the feeling when a day of fishing comes together just right.


Equipment The equipment for fly-fishing is quite different from that of spin casting. Fly-fishing components are similar in name, but there the similarities end.

Line

The fly line is attached to the fly reel by a length of braided line called backing. The thick fly line is attached to the finer diameter monofilament leader and the leader in turn ends in an even finer diameter tippet.(Nylon or Fluorocarbon)

Backing

The backing is most commonly any sort of non-stretch braided Line (e.g. Dacron). It simply adds length to the fly line and helps increase the centre arbor of the reel. This added length is important when fishing for fish that tend to make long runs. The amount of backing you choose depends on the size of your reel and the fighting characteristics of the type of fish you will be catching. For most fish, 100 Metres should be fine. For fish that are known to make long runs, 150+ Metres or more should be used. Large Reels used Offshore for Blue water fishing could commonly hold 500 or 600 Metres. Note: The backing must be wound on to the reel very tightly for saltwater fly-fishing. BACKING AMOUNTS AND SIZE RECOMENDATIONS

Light Saltwater / Freshwater - 100-150m - 35lb (0-6wt Rods) Medium / Heavy Saltwater - 150-300m - 50lb (7-12wt Rods) Very Heavy Saltwater - 300-600m - 65-80lb (12-16wt Rods)


Fly line

The line is the “heart” of fly-fishing. Remember, the fly line provides the weight for casting. Many types of fly line have been developed for ease of casting and greater efficiency. Fly lines are classified by their taper, weight, and density (in that order). Line weight is measured on a scale of naught (lightest) to 16 (heaviest). Lines in the four to 10 ranges are most common. Trout anglers/Light saltwater commonly use lines between four and six-weight. Lines in the seven to nine range work well in medium saltwater and in Western Australia due to our ever present wind. The more recent trend has become, to use the lightest line weight that will deliver the fly for the species you are chasing.

Anatomy of a Fly Line

1. Tip: A Short (6") piece of line to which leader is attached too.

2. Front taper: Is a Section of line that reduces mass/diameter of line from belly to tip, allows line to cast and deliver/Turnover the fly.

3. Belly: The Section of the line that contains most of the line's weight, loads the rod for casting.

4. Rear taper: The Section of the line that reduces mass/diameter of line from belly to running line allows longer casts.

5. Running line: Small-diameter rear section of line that shoots through the rod guides well as it is thin and light.

6. Head: Front taper, Belly and Rear taper, combined.

Note: Most fly lines range from 90 to 120 feet in length.

Lines are tapered to help present the fly as delicate as possible. The casting required can vary based upon species desired, fishing conditions and caster experience.

The taper style is based upon the design of the fly-line head. The most common styles are the ones listed below.

For instance a level line

No change of thickness, just as its name suggests. Level lines are priced economically because of the uniform thickness, but are very difficult to cast. A common mistake of a beginner fly-fisher is to purchase a level line because of its cost, but then fail at fly casting because it’ s too difficult to use. Double Taper (DT): Head features an extended belly with identical tapers at each end.

The midsection provides the weight for casting. The small eight to 12-foot tapered end provides the flexibility required for the delicate presentation of flies. It is a very versatile line that can be used with both wet and dry flies and generally is used when casting shorter distances. Since both ends are tapered the same, this line can be reversed after one end wears out so you get two lines for the price of one!


Weight Forward (WF): Head of line is distinctly toward one end. (Majority of modern Fly Lines)

Followed by a heavier body section that provides the weight for casting. The body section is followed by a more slender section of line known as the shooting/Running line. The weight in the forward part of this line helps the fly-fisher make long casts while the fine front taper aids in delicate presentation of flies. Specialization of the fly line increases even more as the density of the line is changed. All line profiles are available in lines that either float on the water or lines that sink to varying depths. In 1961, the American Fishing Tackle Manufacturers Association (AFTMA) introduced a code of marking all fly lines according to their different characteristics. The first series of letters stand for the line taper: level - L, weight forward - WF, and double taper - DT. The number is the line weight and the last letter is the density – floating (F), Intermediate – (I) or sinking (S). Alternatively, a combination of the two densities – Floating Line with an Intermediate Tip (F/I) All the main designations of a fly line are available on the box. Take a look at this example on how to read a box of fly line.

WF-9-F

WF = Weight Forward

9 = 9 weight

F = Floating

90 FT = 90-feet line length

Note: You will need to read the rest of the box for other details such as floatation additives, core material and coating.


Leaders

Leaders are usually a one piece or multi piece section of tapered monofilament constructed from nylon (floating) or Fluorocarbon material and occasionally braided or twisted monofilament. These are the three recognised parts to a Leader.

Most commonly the leader (including the tippet) will be the same length as the rod, around 9ft. Leader length can vary from much longer(12-16ft) for very shy/spooky fish and ultra-delicate presentations (Trout),down to short leaders (5-7ft) for very aggressive fish or to help turnover very large/heavy flies(Marlin). The Leader provides a strong, generally transparent, flexible link between the fly line and fly.

It separates impact of fly line from fish. (Fly line can spook a fish if it sees it)

Permits predictable delivery of fly - soft to powerful. (Tapper and length of leader controls the turnover)

Permits most effective fly action.

Aids in floating or sinking flies. (Nylon or Fluorocarbon material)

Relatively small tip diameter allows connection to hook eye.

Note: If a line is cast without a leader there is excess energy remaining when the line straightens. This excess energy causes the line’s tip to "crack-the-whip”, snap or kick violently, and can result in shredding the line’s tip.

The tippet is the lightest/weakest part of the leader and it’s diameter/breaking strain is affected by the following.

The size or weight of the fly being used.

The type and/or size of the species being targeted.(Larger Diameter for toothy or rough mouthed species.)

The angler’s choice. (To avoid breaking the fly line or whole leader off)


Tippet Examples

Most leader and tippet material now comes with the breaking strain stated on the spool in Kilos (kg) and/or Pounds (lb) (Pounds x 0.45 = Kilos).

Another outdated but still prevalent in freshwater Fly Fishing and some packaging is the alternate classification for tippet material called the X-Code. This is simply a numbered code assigned in order, to a tippet diameter in thousands of an inch. (3X = 0.008”)

The following table used as a general guide for matching tippet size to hook size. Fly design and variations in leader material stiffness can affect performance and may dictate larger tippet or permit smaller tippet to be used.

Note: Tensile strength (Lb. Test) in the table is approximate.


Rods The fly rod is a very important piece of equipment. The fly rod delivers the energy from the casting angler to propel the fly line. ” The definition of a fly rod – an antenna which transmits peace, tranquillity, excitement, fellow-ship, and most of all, an awareness and appreciation for the outdoors” When it comes to fly rods the old adage, “You get what you pay for!” is especially true. Modern rods may be made of any one of three different materials: bamboo, fibreglass, or Carbon Fibre. Some traditional fly-fishers do not believe that you are really fly-fishing unless you use a split bamboo rod. There are still some very fine and expensive bamboo rods available, but today, most rods are made from Carbon Fibre. However, there has been some resurgence in Fibreglass rods over last few years. Carbon Fibre rods generally are lighter than their Fibreglass or bamboo counterparts are. It is critical to “balance” your outfit (e.g., use the correct weight fly line for your rod). Manufacturers label rods with the information you need to put together a “well balanced” outfit. Fly rods are rated on a scale of weight from 0 to 16. The American Fly Fishing Trade Association (AFFTA) assigns the numbers.

The weight rating indicates the line "weight" needed to properly flex or load the rod for casting. A 0-weight is the lightest rod and 16-weight is the heaviest.

Note: More 5-weight rods are sold than any other weight.


Matching Weights

0, 1- and 2-weight: Extreme Ultralight Freshwater

Suitable where small flies are used for pan fish and small trout.

Less than 1 weight is even more challenging.

3- and 4-weight: Ultralight Freshwater / Extreme Ultralight Saltwater

More versatile than the 1 and 2-weights, but still best with small flies for smaller saltwater fish and trout where wind is less problematic.

5-weight: Light Freshwater / Ultralight Saltwater

The most popular rod for the trout stream, also excellent for smaller saltwater fish.

6- and 7-weight: Medium Freshwater/Light Saltwater

A good choice for throwing larger flies, larger trout rivers and for general estuary. They also work as light saltwater rods for bonefish and other small flats species. Easier for casting in windy conditions.

8- and 9-weight: Heavy Freshwater/Medium Saltwater

Freshwater, such as Saratoga or small Barramundi fishing with large bugs: medium saltwater for bonefish, Permit, Queenies, etc.

10-weight: Extremely Heavy Freshwater/Medium-Heavy Saltwater

For very strong fish, such as Giant Trevally, Salmon, Snapper, permit, small tuna etc. Generally, users are casting very heavy or large flies and/or extreme wind situations.

11- and12-weight: Heavy Saltwater

Built for large saltwater species such as adult Sailfish, Giant Trevally etc..

13,14,15and16-weight: Extremely Heavy Saltwater

Used for billfish, sharks, large tuna and other extreme big-game fish.


Rod Length

Rods shorter than 9 feet:

Useful when fishing on small streams or other tight spaces. (e.g. Snag Fishing)

Often Favoured by Kayak Fishermen.

Can be a handicap for long casts or when mending line.

Shorter rods are generally lighter and are less tiring to use.

Also good for fighting fish due to the shorter lever that the fish can use against us.

They are good for increased accuracy.

9 Feet

The most popular rod length for fly rods.

Handles various fishing conditions well, without the extra weight and casting effort that comes with longer rods.

An excellent compromise between distance and accuracy for most fishing situations.

Rods longer than 9 feet

Make longer casts easier than shorter rods.

Greater advantage for mending and other line-handling techniques (e.g. roll casting etc.).

Extra weight is more tiring than shorter rods.

Covering more water on larger rivers and fishing the surf.


Rod Action

Fishing rods generally are referred to, by the action of the rod. This term describes where the rod bends, not the

rod's stiffness.

The most common actions are:

Fast action: rod bends primarily near its tip

Medium or moderate action: rod tends to bend more toward the middle

Slow action: rod bends well into the bottom, or butt

Note: It is assumed that rods of similar length and weight are being compared when the same force is applied. Even

very-fast-action rods will bend deep into the rod if enough force is applied


Blank Materials

Most modern rods utilize Carbon Fibre as the principal material for construction. There are still some fly rods made of Fibreglass or bamboo.

Carbon Fibre is strong, stiff and light when compared to Fibreglass and bamboo. Carbon Fibre’s stiffness can generally be attributed to the modulus of the Fibre used.

High-modulus Carbon Fibre is stiff compared to its weight.

Rods made of high modulus Carbon Fibre tend to be light and sensitive, but powerful.

Low-modulus Carbon Fibre is usually more durable.

Rods made of low-modulus Carbon Fibre tend to be heavier and less sensitive.


Reels There are two main types of reel, direct drive and anti-reverse reels. They come in sizes to suit the rod/line weights, 2wt reels, through to 16wt reels. Simply increasing in overall diameter (spool and frame) as they increase in line weight class.

Components

Below are the basic components to a fly reel. Drags styles vary and are generally located near the inner arbor.


Reel Sizes

Small Arbor: The diameter of the arbor is approximately 30% the diameter of the spool

Middle Arbor: The diameter of the arbor is approximately 50% the diameter of the spool

Large Arbor: The diameter of the arbor is 60-75% of the diameter of the spool


Drag Types

Most fly-reel drags utilize one of these two drags: Spring and Pawl or Disk. They use simple adjustments to apply more or less tension to the fly line.

A quality spring-and-pawl system is good for most light fishing situations, particularly those where you will be fishing using very light tackle and fine tippets.

The disc drag reel is designed to exert a smooth but hard pressure on the fly line without seizing up and is ideal when large fish strip out hundreds of feet of line.

Drag washer material can be any number of materials: Felt, Cork, Plastics (Rulon/Teflon), Carbon Fibre etc. and can be dry ( No added lubricant) or Wet (added oil or grease lubricant), they can also be sealed (watertight) or unsealed.


Reel Materials

Injection moulded: lightweight, economical, suitable for light/moderate use. (Plastic etc.)

Stamped metal: medium weight, economical, suitable for light/moderate use.

Cast (pressure or gravity) aluminium and aluminium alloys: medium weight, durable, suitable for

Light/moderate use.

Composite (carbon fibre): lightweight, more expensive, durable and suitable for all levels of fishing.

Machined aluminium: lightweight, more expensive, durable and built for all levels of fishing.


Knots and putting it all together FISHING KNOT BASICS

1. Choose the right fishing knot and tie it correctly. 2. Lubricate knots with water or saliva before drawing tight. 3. Draw knots as tight as possible. 4. Trim tag ends close to the knot.

Simple Arbor Knot

Use the simple Arbor Knot to tie your fishing line to the spool of any type of fishing reel – fly reel, spinning reel or bait casting reel. 1. Wrap your line around the arbor of the spool with the tag end of the line. Then tie a simple overhand knot around

the standing part with the tag end.

2. Tie a second overhand knot in the tag end just an inch or two from the first overhand knot.

3. Pull the standing part of the line to slide the first overhand knot down to the spool and the second knot to jam against the first. Trim tag end close.

For Braid and saltwater application make three wraps around the arbor and then tie a twelve turn Uni Knot and pull up Tight.


Bimini Twist

The Bimini is considered to be a 100% knot – providing 100% line strength. It creates a double line with a loop at the end to which a leader can be attached with a loop-to-loop connection. An Offshore Swivel Knot is often used to tie directly to the Bimini. 1. Double the line into a loop and make twenty twists in the end of the loop. Slip the open end over a knee (or both

knees and your feet for a long loop) and keep constant pressure on both ends of the loop.

2. Lower the hand that is holding the tag end until the tag end slips back over the first twists. Open the angle of the loop and let the tag end roll over the column of twists to the end of the twists.

3. After the line is rolled down to the end of the twists, make a half hitch (overhand knot) on the near side of the loop to lock everything in place. Maintain tension on all lines.

4. Secure the knot by making 3 to 5 half hitches around both lines of the loop, working from the loop end back

toward your knot. Tighten-up half hitches against the base of the knot.

5. Clip excess tag end to about ¼ inch.


Nail Knot

The Nail Knot is a time tested and popular knot to join fly line to leader. The use of a small hollow tube (coffee stirrer sticks can work) instead of a nail is effective. 1. Lay a nail or hollow tube against the end of a fly line. Set the butt section end of a leader against the line and

tube. Leave an extra 10 – 12” of its tag end to tie the Knot.

2. Make 6-8 close together wraps, working left to right, back around the leader, line and tube or nail. Pass the tag end through the tube or the space made by the nail and remove the tube.

3.

4. Pull tag end to snug up the coils then tag end and leader to seat the knot firmly onto the fly line.

5. Trim tag end close to the knot.


Perfection Loop

Strong and effective, the Perfection Loop is a favorite for tying a loop at the end of the line. (e.g. the start of the leader for loop to loop connection to the Fly line) Besides being strong and reliable, it can be crafted to make a very small loop if desired. 1. Form a loop (A) at the end of the line by passing the tag end behind the standing line.

2. Take a turn around the standing line, forming a second loop (B). Hold in place and take another turn around the line, this time crossing on the topside of new loop B.

3. Hold tag end in place and pass loop B through loop A.

4. Pull loop B up until knot jams tight. Trim tag end.


Double Blood Knot

Used for joining two lines together, the Blood Knot is a tried and true fishing knot and a favorite of fly fishermen. The strength of the knot is increased by making at least 5 and up to 7 wraps on each side of the knot. It works best with lines of approximately equal diameter. 1. Overlap ends of lines to be joined. Twist one around the other making 5 turns. Bring tag end back between the

two lines.

2. Repeat with the other end, wrapping in opposite direction the same number of turns.

3. Slowly pull lines in opposite directions. Turns will wrap and gather. Clip ends close to the knot.


Double Uni Knot

This knot is used by anglers in both salt and fresh water for joining lines of similar or different strengths. It works well and some find it easier to tie than the Blood Knot. When tying in braided line to monofilament, make 8 turns with the slippery braided line and 5+ turns with the mono. 1. Overlap the ends of lines to be joined. Take the end of the line from the left and double back and make 3 to 4

wraps around both lines and through the loop that was formed. Pull tag end to tighten.

2. Repeat with the end of the line on the left making the same number of wraps unless tying with braided line in

which you should double the number of wraps.

3. You have now tied two Uni knots. Pull the standing lines in opposite direction to slide the two knots together.

4. Clip ends close to the knot.


Surgeon’s Knot

This knot ranks as one of the best and easiest to tie knots for joining lines of equal or unequal diameters. It can also be used to join lines of different materials. It is simply two overhand knots with the entire leader pulled through the knot each time. When properly tied, the Surgeon’s Knot approaches 100-percent line strength. It must be tightened by pulling on all four strands to properly seat the knot. To tie the Triple Surgeon's Knot, proceed to do a total of three (hence the triple in the name) wraps of the loop through the overhand knot. There is some measure of added security with the Triple Surgeon's, but the knot does get a bit bulky. Triple Surgeon’s is better, especially for light tippet connections etc. 1. Lay the line and leader on top of one another overlapping each other by several inches.

2. Form a simple loop

3. Pass both the tag end and the entire leader through the loop 2 times.

(Optional) Pass both tag end and leader through the loop an additional time to tie the 'Triple Surgeon's Knot'.

4. Moisten knot and pull all 4 ends tight.


Non-Slip Loop – Kreh Loop Knot

The Non-Slip Mono Loop is also known as the “Kreh Loop” as it has been popularized by fishing legend Lefty Kreh. As its name suggests it forms a non-slip loop at the end of a fishing line. The loop connection to a fly or a lure can give the fly or lure more natural action. 1. Make an overhand knot in the line about 10 inches from the end. Pass the tag end through the hook eye and

back through the loop of the overhand knot.

2. Wrap the tag end around the standing part 5 or 6 times. Bring tag end back through overhand knot, entering from

same side it exited from before.

3. Moisten he knot then pull slowly on the tag end to cinch the wraps loosely together. Then pull the loop and the

standing line in opposite directions to seat the knot. Trim tag end.


A Consideration of Fly-fishing Ethics

In all cases, follow the “Golden Rule;” Do unto other fly-fishers only what you would have them do unto you.

Practices “catch and release,” keeping only those fish needed. In all cases, follow the law. Fishing

regulations are designed to prevent the over harvest of the resource and, at the same time, provide equal fishing opportunities for everyone.

Respect other anglers’ space. The angler sitting on shore where you intended to fish may be “resting” the

fish or studying his strategy. Either way, the water is his and you should pass quietly to another spot.

When passing other anglers, pass at a distance, walking softly to avoid spooking fish.

Avoid unnecessary wading and, where necessary, wade gently.

Do not cut off another angler’s approach to the water. Leave enough space between yourself and the other angler that it would take 20-30 minutes to fish through.

When fishing private property, remember you are a guest of the landowner. Follow his wishes; do not

trespass, leave gates open, damage fences or other property, build fires, remove things, or leave items behind.

Take part in conservation efforts to protect the waters we fish, be they rivers, lakes, streams or ocean..

Share your angling knowledge and skills with your friends. By doing so you enlist the help of an ally in

protecting the resource.

When fishing public water, remember there is an ever increasing, often competing, demand on this limited resource. Never litter the land or water. Never pollute and leave no trace for others to find.

Remember; “We do not inherit this land from our ancestors but, rather, borrow it from our

Grandchildren.”


Casting

Written by Bill and Jay Gammel

“Through many years of studying modern fly casting instruction, we have identified what we believe to be the five essential elements of fly casting. Each essential element will be explained and the visual recognition of both a good and a bad cast will be discussed. Comparisons of the best fly casters in the country have shown that styles of casting are unique to each caster. However, the five essentials discussed in this booklet represent the common thread that ties all good casters together. If all of the following essentials are properly executed, good casting will be the result; if all the essentials are not correctly performed, you cannot be a complete caster.”

TheFiveEssentialsareasfollows:

1. THERE MUST BE A PAUSE AT THE END OF EACH STROKE WHICH VARIES IN DURATION WITH THE

AMOUNT OF LINE BEYOND THE ROD TIP.

In all types of casting, a weight is used to provide resistance against which the rod is bent to store energy for the cast. In plug or spin casting, it is the weight of the lure which bends the rod. This weight is concentrated in a relatively small lure which hangs a short distance below the rod tip. After making a back cast with such a lure, no pause is necessary before starting forward with the rod. Conversely, in fly casting it is the weight of the fly line which bends or loads the rod, and this weight may be distributed over ten, thirty, or even fifty feet of line. Because this line must be straight in order to properly load the fly rod a pause, which varies in duration with the amount of line beyond the rod tip, is essential to allow the line to straighten. (See Figures 1a & 1b). If the line does not straighten between the back and the forward cast, the potential casting weight of the line is reduced and the rod will not load properly. This will cause a weak, sloppy cast, or in extreme cases the loop will collapse.

Figure 1a. This short line is completely straight and is ready to be cast forward.


In order to achieve the correct amount of pause on the back cast, some instructors advocate watching every back cast. Certainly, it is appropriate to watch the back cast occasionally. However, we strongly recommend that the caster not watch every back cast. We have found there are problems associated with watching all of the back casts that are more difficult to correct than any slight problem with timing. As long as the line length is constant, the pause on the back cast is the same as the pause on the forward cast. If the caster keeps this in mind, he will learn to time the back cast pause simply by keeping it the same as the forward cast pause. The correct pause is essential for successful casting and therefore should be practiced from the beginning. You must also remember that the rod does not have to be motionless at the end of the back cast. Some casters advocate using a backward drift while others leave the rod stationary. Either style is fine as long as the rod does not drift forward before the line is straight. This is called creep, and is a common mistake which wastes valuable stroke length that cannot be regained without causing the rod to unload prematurely.

Figure 1b. With a longer line, the pause must be longer.


2. SLACK LINE SHOULD BE KEPT TO AN ABSOLUTE MINIMUM

To apply power to the cast, the line must be anchored either with the rod hand against the handle or more commonly in the line hand (the hand not holding the rod). If the line is not anchored, the line and rod will slide relative to one another and will keep the rod from bending or loading. Even though the line is anchored, slack may still be present and needs to be removed before the next cast is made. Slack in the casting system causes the caster to waste some of the casting stroke removing slack, without properly loading the rod or moving the fly. If there is no slack in the casting system the fly will move as soon as the rod tip moves. There are many causes of slack. A few of the more common ones are: movement of the fly line by outside forces such as water or wind, starting the cast with the rod tip too high, rough, jerky application of power, and poor timing between the back and forward cast. The most common cause of slack which many casters overlook, is the belly of slack that forms between the rod tip and the water when starting the cast from a position with the rod tip high in the air. This is illustrated in Figure 2. To prevent this from happening, start a cast with the rod tip pointing at the water. This allows you to start with the most efficient back cast.

Figure 2. Incorrect rod position, a common cause of slack line overlooked by most casters.


3. IN ORDER TO FORM THE MOST EFFICIENT, LEAST AIR RESISTANT LOOPS, AND TO DIRECT THE

ENERGY OF A FLY CAST TOWARD A SPECIFIC TARGET, THE CASTER MUST MOVE THE ROD TIP IN A

STRAIGHT LINE.

Because the fly line must follow the rod tip, the straight line movement of the rod tip is the only way a fly caster can form a straight line cast. This is true for both the vertical and horizontal planes. In the vertical plane there are three common paths that the rod tip can follow. It can travel a straight line from one end of the casting stroke to the other, which is how a properly shaped loop is formed. It can travel through a convex path (one that is higher in the middle of the path than on either end) and the loop will be wide or fat. If the rod tip travels in a concave path (the tip is lower in the middle of the path than on either end), the loop will tail or cross. These loops, and the rod tip paths which produce them, are displayed in Figures 3a, 3b and 3c. The rod must also move in a straight line horizontally, without right or left deviations. A rod tip path that slices to the right will cause the line to curve to the right, while a rod tip path that hooks to the left causes the line to curve to the left. The most efficient way to make sure the rod tip moves in a straight line in the horizontal plane is to pick a target and make sure the line always moves straight away from the target on the back cast and directly at the target on the forward cast. To ensure the rod tip moves in a straight line in the vertical plane, you must combine the correct stroke length with the correct application of power. For instance, if you are having trouble with wide loops, either the stroke is too long or not enough power is being applied. Sometimes both errors are made. To correct this problem either the stroke must be shortened or more power must be applied. Sometimes both corrections are necessary. Stroke length is the first possibility to consider. If you are getting crossed or tailing loops, the stroke length is probably too short or the power is applied in a jerky, uneven manner, or possibly both faults exist. In this instance, the fault is probably with the application of power. Make every effort to apply power as described in essential five. The stroke may need to be lengthened if applying power correctly does not solve the problem.

Figure 3a. A good loop and the straight line rod tip path which produces it.


Figure 3b. A wide loop and the convex rod tip path which produces it.

Figure 3c. A tailing loop and the concave rod tip path which produces it.


4. THE LENGTH OF THE STROKE MUST VARY WITH THE AMOUNT OF LINE PAST THE ROD TIP. If you are casting a short line you will need a short stroke to move the rod tip along a straight line. If you are casting a longer line the extra weight causes the rod to bend much deeper, and a longer stroke is necessary to keep the rod tip moving in a straight line. This is where the problem of creep arises. If the rod is allowed to creep forward there will not be enough stroke length to properly load the rod for a long cast. This is a common problem when lengthening the stroke for a long distance cast.

Figure 4a. Short line, short stroke.

Figure 4b. Longer line, longer stroke.


5. POWER MUST BE APPLIED IN THE PROPER AMOUNT AT THE PROPER PLACE IN THE STROKE.

The amount of power needed for each cast is influenced by a number of factors including the amount of line to be false cast, the total length of the cast, wind direction, the weight of the line and rod and the type of cast to be made. As shown in figure 5, the majority of this power should be applied after the rod has reached a position perpendicular to the plane of the cast. In other words, the power should be applied slowly at first, gradually increasing to a peak at the end of the stroke. There should be a crisp stop at the end of the casting stroke forcing the fly rod to come out of its bend. As the rod straightens or unloads a loop is formed.

Figure 5. A to B, power is increasing; B to C, power is greatest; D is the end of the stroke.

These are the five essentials of good fly casting. These essentials will enable you to achieve the proper loading and unloading of the rod, which should be the goal of all good fly casting. The correct loading and unloading of the rod allows you to first store energy in the rod and then transmit it to the fly line. Letting the rod work for you in this manner is the most efficient way to cast a fly.

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